Volume 5 - Plated-Dish Recipes

MOD ERN IST
CUI SIN E
5 Plated-D ish Recipes

MO DE RN IST
CU ISI NE
The Art and Science of Cooking
Nath an Myhr vold

with Chris Youn g
and Maxi me Bilet
Photog raphy by
Ryan Matth e\N Smith
and Natha n Myhrv old
Copyright 20 II by The Cooking Lab, LLC
All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of
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means, or stored in a database or retrieval system 1 without the prior written permission
of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective owners.
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ISBN: 978-0-9827610-0-7
First edition 1 2011
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Printed in China
Modernist Cuisine
The Art and Science of Cooking
Volume 5
Plated-D ish
Recipes
The Cooking Lab

FOREWORD BY FERRAN ADRIA viii
FOREWORD BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL ix
OUR CULINARY JOURNEYS
VOLUME!:
HISTORY AND FUNDAMENTALS
CHAPTER 1: HISTORY 2
Origins of Cooking ...................................................... 6
Evolution and Revolution ......................................... 14
The Seeds of Modernism .......................................... 33
The Modernist Revolution ....................................... 52
The Story of this Book .............................................. 83
About the Recipes ..................................................... 93
CHAPTER 2: MICROBIOLOGY FOR COOKS 102

Microbes as Germs .................................................. 106
Foodborne lllness .................................................... 110
Parasitic Worms ....................................................... 120
Protists ..................................................................... 126
Bacteria .................................................................... 130
Bacterial Growth ..................................................... 142
Bacterial Death ........................................................ 148
Viruses ...................................................................... 152
Prions ....................................................................... 156
CHAPTER 3: FOOD SAFETY 162

The Complex Origins of Food Safety Rules .......... 166
Common Misconceptions ...................................... 174
Understanding the FDA Rule Book ....................... 182
Simplifying Food Safety with Science ................... 190
Hygiene .................................................................... 196
CHAPTER 4: FOOD AND HEALTH 208

Dietary Systems ....................................................... 214
Medical Dietary Systems ........................................ 222
Nonmedical Dietary Systems ................................. 240
Modernist Ingredients ............................................ 250
CHAPTER 5: HEAT AND ENERGY 260

The Nature of Heat and Temperature .................... 264
Energy, Power, and Efficiency ................................ 272
Heat in Motion ........................................................ 277
CHAPTER 6: THE PHYSICS OF FOOD AND WATER 292

Water is Strange Stuff.. ................... .. ....................... 296
The Energy of Changing States .............................. 300
Freezing and Melting .............................................. 304
Vaporization and Condensation ...................... ....... 314
Sublimation and Deposition ................................... 326
Water as a Solvent.. .................................................. 330
Water Quality and Purity ........................................ 335
Page references of the form 4381 refer to volume 4, page 381

VOLUME2:
TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT
CHAPTER 7: TRADITIONAL COOKING 2

Grilling ......................................................................... 7
Broiling ...................................................................... 18
Roasting ..................................................................... 28
Panfrying a Ia Plallcha ............................................... 37
Sauteing ...................................................................... 44
Stir-Frying .................................................................. 48
Covered Sauteing ....................................................... 58
Boiling ........................................................................ 63
Steaming ..................................................................... 70
Canning ...................................................................... 75
Pot-Roasting and Stewing ......................................... 93
Baking ....................................................................... 101
Cooking in Oil ......................................................... 115
Smoking ................................................................... 132
CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 150

Cooking with Moist Air .......................................... 154
Cooking with Microwaves ...................................... 182
CHAPTER 9: COOKING SOUS VIDE 192

Why So us Vide' ...................................................... 198
Packaging Food for So us Vide ................................ 208
Sous Vide Equipment.. ............................................ 228
Strategies for Cooking So us Vide ........................... 242
Strategies for Chilling and Reheating .................... 252
Blanching and Searing for So us Vide ..................... 267
CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 280

Extracting Flavors ................................................... 288
Infusing Essences .................................................... 318
Juicing ...................................................................... 332
Filtering .................................................................... 351
Concentrate! ............................................................ 379
Cutting 'Em Down to Size ...................................... 398
Drying ...................................................................... 428
Cryogenic Freezing and Carbonating .................... 456
VOLUME3:
ANIMALS AND PLANTS
CHAPTER 11: MEAT AND SEAFOOD 2
How Muscle Works ..................................................... 6
Converting Muscle into Meat.. ................................. 32
Cutting ....................................................................... 44
Cooking Meat and Seafood ....................................... 70
Cooking Skin and Innards ...................................... 116
Salting and Drying .................................................. 152
Marinating ............................................................... 190
Smoking ................................................................... 208
Restructuring ........................................................... 220
CHAPTER 12: PLANT FOODS 258
Plants as Food .......................................................... 262
Cooking Sous Vide ............................. ..................... 286
Pressure-Cooking .................................. .................. 298
Microwaving ............................................................ 310
Frying ....................................................................... 314
Preserving .......... ............................. .... ..................... 344
Modifying Textures ................................................. 374
VOLUME4:
INGREDIENTS AND PREPARATIONS
CHAPTER 13: THICKENERS 2
How Thickening Works ............................................ 12
Strategies for Thickening .......................................... 14
Starches .................................................................... .. 20
Hydrocolloids ............................................................ 38
CHAPTER 14: GELS 64

How Gelling Works ................................................... 70
Egg Gels ..................................................................... 74
Dairy and Tofu Gels ................................................ 102
Gelling with Hydrocolloids .................................... 124
Fluid Gels ................................................................. 176
Spherification ............. ............................................ . 184
CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 196

How Emulsification Works ..................................... 200
Methods of Emulsifying ......................................... 206
Modernist Emulsions .............................................. 214
CHAPTER 16: FOAMS 240

How Foams Work .................................................... 244
Forming Foams ....................................... .... ... .. ... ..... 252
CHAPTER 17: WINE 316

What Makes a Great Wine ...................................... 322
Tasting Wine ............ ................................ ................ 334
CHAPTER 18: COFFEE 354

From Cherry to Bean .............................................. 358
Brewing .................................................................... 364
Espresso ................................................................... 372
The Art of Milk and Coffee .................................... 391
Achieving Consistency ............................................ 396
VOLUME 5: PLATED-DISH RECIPES

ABOUT THE RECIPES viii
CHAPTER 19: TENDER CUTS 2
Beef Rib Steak
Mushroom Swiss Burger
Autumn Harvest Pork Roast
Rack of Lamb with Garlic
Blanquette de Veau
Choucroute Royale
CHAPTER 20: TOUGH CUTS 40
Braised Short Ribs
Pot-au-Feu
Hungarian Beef Goulash
Osso Buco Milanese
American BBQ
Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn and Spring)
Historic Lamb Curries
Sunday Pork Belly
CHAPTER 21: POULTRY 106

Foie Gras aIa Vapeur
Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken
Duck Apicius
Pigeon en Salmis
Guinea Hen Tajine
CHAPTER 22: FISH 140

Fish and Chips
Hamachi Maltaise
Monkfish with Mediterranean Flavors
Skate in Black Butter
Salmon Rus
Malaysian Steamed Snapper
Black Cod "Fredy Girardet"
Hawaiian Poke
CHAPTER 23: SHELLFISH 178

Shrimp Cocktail
Lobster Americaine
Thai Crab Miang
Pulpo a Ia Gallega
Shellfish Omakase
Oyster Stew
CHAPTER 24: EGGS 208

The Breakfast Egg
Mushroom Omelet
Oeufs en Meurette
CHAPTER 25: STARCHES 222

Cocoa Tajarin
Spaghetti aile Vongole
Russian Pelmeni
Paella Valenciana
Astronaut Ramen
Shanghai Soup Dumplings
CHAPTER 26: FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 258

Onion Tart
Lentil Salad
Sweet Pea Fricassee
Strawberry Gazpacho
Crispy Cauliflower
Watermelon Bulgogi
PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS IV

GLOSSARIES OF CULINARY AND TECHNICAL TERMS v
SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT AND INGREDIENTS, REFERENCE TABLES XXX
THE MODERNIST CUISINE TEAM, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, INDEX XLVI
ABOUT THE RECIPES
This sections repeats, for the Modernist Cuisine, both the culinary movement and Ingredients and Equipment
reader's convenience, material that this book, is dedicated to looking at cooking from You might be surprised to learn that although
appea rs in greater detail in vo lume
1 on page 193. In particu lar, new angles. This includes covering topics ignored many people equate Modernist cooking with
example recipes and parametric by other culinary books. So it stands to reason that something akin to laboratory science, the majority
recipes are discussed in volume 1 our recipes look somewhat different from those in of recipes here can be made with tools available in
but not repeated here, where the
focus is on the plated-dish recipes other cookbooks. Our goal is to break down most standard kitchens. Even the recipes that
that appear in this volume. recipes in such a way that you can better under- involve sous vide techniques can be made without
stand not just the what (ingredients) and the how specialized gadgets; you can just use a simple pot
(methods), but also the why. To accomplish this, on the stove and a thermometer (see page 2-240).
we needed a new format for presenting recipes. At the other end of the spectrum are the recipes
The compact, modular form of our recipes that do require a centrifuge, combi oven, freeze
makes them a broader resource for instruction and dryer, or other specialized tool. If you're interested
inspiration. They're meant to help you both in investing in such equipment, there are many
understand the practical applications of culinary places to find it, from eBay and other purveyors of
principles and visualize how you might apply secondhand equipment to scientific-equipment
those principles in other contexts. catalogs and a growing number of cooking stores.
In these five volumes, you'll find a huge variety of Very few kitchens on Earth have all the equip-
recipes and foods. Although we are telling the story ment featured in this book (I know of only two:
of Modernist cuisine, our recipes are not limited to one at my house and another at our cooking lab).
cutting-edge dishes-we cover everything from Our recipes were designed under the assumption
American regional barbecue to innovative flavored that the optimal tools and equipment are on hand.
gels. The point is not to tout modern approaches or If you don't have those tools at your disposal, those
science for their own sake but to illustrate how the particular recipes will be more informational than
principles of Modernist cooking can be applied practical, but they will still serve their purpose as
across a wide range of recipes. an educational medium. Indeed, many recipes in
An important thing to consider when following cookbooks end up functioning primarily to
recipes in this book is that details matter, often to a provide information and inspiration. Not everyone
great degree. In traditional cooking, there's a who owns a copy of Auguste Escoffier's Le Guide
common precept that exact measurements don't Culinaire has made all his triple stocks and compli-
matter much (at least in savory dishes): a handful cated forcemeats, for example, but there remains
of this, a few drizzles of that, a pinch of something great instructional value in seeing his examples
In a few cases, there may be local else. Fundamentally, much of this kind of cooking and reading the recipes.
legal issues with some of the is done "to taste," following the cook's experience. What you won't find in our recipes is much
eq uipm ent we use. The state of
Texas requires a permit to own That is not the case with pastry, where precision attention to the most basic equipment, such as
laboratory glassware, fo r example, counts. You don't add yeast or baking powder to bowls and saute pans. We presume that you'll
and distillation is regulated in the taste, and proportions ofleavening to flour aren't know what equipment you need to use when we
Un ited States at both the federa l
and state levels. One piece of left to creative impulse. Modernist cuisine tends call for blending or simmering or sauteing.
equipme nt we use in this book, the to lean more toward the pastry chef's approach. In Recipes here use a number of unusual ingredi-
rotary evapo rator, is made for Modernist cooking, carefully measuring ingredients, like xanthan gum, sodium alginate, gellan,
distilling; if it is used to distill and
concentrate alcoho l, it may be ents ensures consistent results. essential oils, and glucono delta-lactone. Our
subject to regulation. In part, that is because the specialized ingredi- glossary of cooking terms on page V describes each
ents used in this form of cuisine can be quite of these ingredients, many of which you can find in
powerful. A little too much of a gelling agent, for well-stocked supermarkets and health food stores.
example, can result in a tough, rubbery product, They are often sold as substitutes for more routine
while too little will not produce the desired gelling products. Some people with wheat allergies, for
effect. So measuring is a critical factor, at least if instance, use xanthan gum to replace the gluten
you'd like to attain the end result that we intended. protein found in wheat flour. Agar is often available
viii VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

19
where you'd find other Asian specialty products. In fact, you might want to consider getting two
The rise of the Internet has made finding such different scales if you're committed to cooking a
items much easier, and they are available from a range of recipes from this book. One would be your
number of online stores. A list of sources is provid- general-purpose scale, good for measuring weights
ed near the end of this volume, on page XXX. from one gram to 1,000 grams or more. The second
Seeing things like propylene glycol alginate in an scale would be for finer measurements, accurately
ingredient list may take some getting used to, but it weighing items down to 0.01 gram. Such scales
should be no stranger than a meringue recipe that often max out at 100 grams or so and thus are not
calls for cream of tartar, a quick bread recipe that as widely applicable as the first type of scale.
calls for baking powder, or a recipe for a regional Keep in mind that the final yield of a recipe will
specialty that calls for distinctive herbs and spices. not necessarily be a simple sum of the weights of
the ingredients. Some things get trimmed along
the way, liquids evaporate, and unmeasured
Weights and Measures ingredients come into play. We provide yield
You'll see in these recipes that we measure ingre- information based on the real weight of the final
dients by weight. Most cookbooks distributed in results, as measured in our test kitchen. For more on weight-to-volume conversions for
Temperatures in the book are given in both common foods. see the reference tables
America use U.S. weights and volumes for ingredi-
beginning on page XXXVI.
ents: 1/ 2 cup of sugar, one teaspoon of salt, two Celsius and Fahrenheit. In general, where precise
cups of milk, etc. We find that these volume temperature is less critical, we do some rounding.
measurements are not sufficiently accurate in It doesn't help much to know that 57 degrees
many instances-0.1% more or less of certain Celsius equals 134.6 degrees Fahrenheit; 135 F
gelling agents or thickeners, for example, (a mere will work fine. Kitchen thermometers typically
extra gram per liter of liquid) can ruin some don't operate well at more than one to two full
recipes. So rather than using more general volume degrees of accuracy anyway (see page 1-269), and
measures in some cases and precise gram weights the controls of ovens and deep-fryers often jump
in others, we chose to use gram weights for all by five-degree intervals.
ingredients in the book. But one of the central themes of Modernist
We even list water by its weight rather than its cooking is that exact temperature control is called
volume, unless the quantity needed is undefined. for under certain circumstances. Water baths used
Salt is usually relegated to the vague notion of "to for sous vide cooking (see page 2 -236) are a means
taste," but where practical, we provide measure- of precisely controlling temperature. Accuracy is
ments for salt by weight. Obviously, if you like particularly important in the lower range of
more or less salt, adding it to taste is always your cooking temperatures. Typically, the higher the
prerogative, but we believe it's important to temperatures, the less critical it is that they be
maintain as much precision as possible so that you precise. But when you're cooking salmon mi-cuit
will achieve the same textures and flavors that we (literally "partially cooked"), the color of the flesh
did when developing these recipes. shouldn't change from the raw state, which
A few exceptions include ingredients that come requires careful temperature management. You
in distinct units, such as eggs or allspice berries. We need to cook the fish within a very narrow range,
usually still measure these by weight, but we also to no more than 40 c I 104 F; above that, it
list the rough equivalent units for reference. And becomes difficult to control the results. Many
some ingredients are called for "as needed," when gelling agents are effective up to 85 c I 185 F, but
there simply is no single correct amount to use. if they are heated to higher than that temperature,
Digital gram scales are widely available in the gel can fail.
cooking stores around the world. They're common Another issue to consider is that some of the
enough now that a good basic model is not an newer ingredients, like hydrocolloids, come in a
expensive investment. If you've measured ingredi- range of grades, brands, and proprietary blends.
ents only by the cup and teaspoon until now, this is We list the specific brands we use as a point of
a great time to buy a good scale and begin applying reference and to provide some guidance about the
a bit more precision to your recipe measurements. properties that other brands may have. Don't let
ABOU T T HE REC I PES ix

these slight variations intimidate you; once you get weight of the reference ingredient, not of the total
the hang of it, these details become second nature. weight of all ingredients in the recipe.
Sometimes a recipe will go awry for any number One challenge in using baker's percentages is
of reasons. Perhaps you're using a finicky hydro- that they can be difficult to use if you want to omit
colloid like gellan, which might gel prematurely if or add an ingredient, or if you substitute several
your tap water has a particularly high mineral ingredients of different quantities. This issue
content. Or perhaps your sous vide bags are comes up most frequently in recipes that involve
leaking. We have tried to offer plenty of trouble- small quantities of potent thickeners or gelling
shooting notes and examples of various scenarios agents, but also for more common ingredients such
to help you diagnose the most common problems, as salt. In the hollandaise recipe, for example, if you
but we surely haven't caught them all. Unfortu- decided to use a more flavorful wine and stock, you
nately, there are many more ways to do something may choose to reduce it a bit less than the recipe
wrong than to do it right. When all else fails, try to calls for to achieve the balance of flavors you want.
treat these outcomes as a learning opportunity. But how should you then adjust the quantity of egg
yolks to preserve the texture of the sauce?
We provide a special scaling percentage in many
Baker's Percentage cases to help with such situations. A note at the
You'll often want to scale a recipe up or down. You bottom of the recipe explains how the special
can do this by multiplying the ingredient quantities percentage is calculated. Often it is a proportion of
by a given factor or by doing some division to figure the weight of all ingredients in the recipe or of all
out the ratios of the ingredients. other ingredients (omitting the weight of the
The best system that we have found for making ingredient that has the special percentage listed).
a recipe easy to scale is called baker's percentage, a In the example above, we added the weights of the
method of measurement that is widely used in wine-shallot-vinegar reduction, the stock or
pastry and baking books. In a recipe that uses water, and the butter, which came to about
Michael Ruhlman's cookbook
Ratio: The Simple Co des Behind the baker's percentage, one reference ingredient- 268 grams when we made the recipe. The weight
CraftofEverydayCooking is usually the ingredient that most affects the yield of the eggs, at 75 grams, is 28% of268 grams, so
dedicated to the idea of using ratios or the cost of the recipe-is set to 100%. The we include the 28% as a special scaling percentage.
to ex press quantities in recipes.
quantity of each other ingredient is then cited as a So, if in your adjustments to the recipe, you find
percentage of the reference ingredient's weight. that you end up with 300 grams of reduction,
For example, our recipe for Sous Vide Instant stock, and butter instead of the 268 grams we got,
Hollandaise (see page 4-228) sets egg yolks as the you can easily work out how much egg yolk to use
reference ingredient at 100% and calls for 75 grams by simply multiplying 300 grams by 28%: 84 grams
of yolks. It calls for vinegar at a scaling of 47%, of yolk should produce a texture very close to the
meaning 47% of the weight of the egg yolks-not original version.
47% of the yield or47% of the sum of all ingredi- The special scaling sometimes becomes crucial
ents, just 47% of the weight of however much the when using recipes that include hydrocolloids that
yolks weigh. are quite powerful in small quantities, so must be
So if you're using 75 grams of egg yolks to make added with great precision. Our recipe for a gelled
the recipe, you need 35 grams of vinegar, because Long Island Iced Tea on page 4141, for example,
75 grams times 47% equals 35. But say you only suggests using 5.6% as much gelatin as you use of
have 65 grams of egg yolks. How much vinegar cola, thus 6.75 grams if using 120 grams of cola.
should you use? This is where the scaling percent- But that ratio would not work well if you were to
age really simplifies things. Just multiply the same omit the tequila. In that case, you should instead
4 7% for vinegar times the actual weight of egg use the special scaling listed for gelatin, which is
yolks available-65 grams-to get the answer: 1.6% of the total weight of all the other ingredi-
30.5 grams of vinegar. ents, or 6.25 grams.
Keep in mind that the percentages of the minor Similarly, if you wanted to add, say, 60 grams of
ingredients will not add up to 100% because scaling whiskey to the recipe, the special scaling percent-
percentages give the weight as a proportion of the age would let you easily work out the right amount
X VOLUM E 5 PLATED D ISH REC I PES

MONKFISH WITH MEDITERRANEAN FlAVORS
Zucchini blossom beignd with halibut brcmdadefilling, spice mix tmulsion 1 mussds
Truth be told, the monkfish is not the most beautiful fish in the sea. another is found in the western lndiom Ocean. Monkfish are strangely
It is a predator thilt waits motionless on the bottom, blending in with absent rom most of the Pacific, however, with just one Sp<"cies that
rocks and debris. It is also ailed an anglerfish, because it dangles swims along the coasts of East Asia.
from its heOlld a long spine with a sof't fleshy end that twitches like a Chefs prize monkfish for the ta il meat; the texture of the meat
worm. When a fish comes in for the bait, the monkfish distends its reminds some people of lobster. Indeed, it was once called "poor
enormous jaws; it can swallow fish as long as its own body. Si:z oft he man's lobster" but grew so popular that it became more costly than
seven spa.:ies of monk.fish (sometimes also called goosefish) li~ in the real thing. Here, we cook monk.fish sous vide and garnish it with
the Atlantic. One species utends into the Mediterranean, and a zucchini beignet stuffed with a halibut brandade.
Plated-dish recipes are the most involved recipes in the book YIELD: four portions
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment, whipping siphon
because they bring together multiple components, including a @ 49 h overatl (15 d if making Salted Halibut), inc:luding 1 hpreparation and
TIME REQUIRED:
main dish, side dishes, sauces, and garnishes. A brief introduction 30 min to reheat and finish
<D provides historical or culinary context for the dish. It is @ ORDER OF PREPARATION,
followed by a "dashboard" view that gives an overview of the TIME TO
PREP FINISH QUANTITY
recipe components, the time you'll need to budget to make each COMPONENT COOK
l2h' andl5d'
part, any special equipment that is required (or that is optional but ~::i~n~l~;!i~~g~l-187 160g
handy), and the assembly steps involved in bringing everything to Pit e 1Ch o u ll: Smin 0 J2h'and!Omin 750g
completion at the same time. H ali but Br.m dade 2d'and I h20min ""'g
Smin four
Yield for the recipe as a whole is given as a number of portions. Zucchini Blossom Beign ets IOmin
Sous Vide M ussels IOmin )min IS mill' 450g

Several times are listed in the TIME REQUIRED: section. The
Fish Spice Mi.J: Smin lOg
"overall" time indicates clock time from the start of preparation to
Sp ice MiJ: Emu lsio n 20min 2min 250g
serving time. Because many recipes require long periods of
cooking, curing, fermenting, etc. that do not require a cook's
Sous Vide Mon k.6sh Pave 25min 45mm' 25min' 400g(fourfillets,
IOOgeach)
attention, we also indicate the amount of hands-on kitchen time

Gree n almonds 12
needed for preparation. Finally, we give the reheating and finishing
(unattended times)
time to let you know how far in advance of serving you should
begin final assembly. AS SEMBLY,
Cook monkfish sous vide at 48 c I 11 9 "F to core temperature Season with salt.
The component dishes in the recipe are then listed in a of 4 7 -c I 11 7 "F, about 25 min. Warm spice mi.J: emulsion, and adjust seaso ning.
suggested order of preparation, 0 with those parts that are Cook mussels sous vide at 65 "C I 149 "F for 12 min. Place monkfish pave on each serving p late.
Garnish each plate with zucchini blossom beignet, cooked m ussels,
easily (or necessarily) made in advance given first. Although the Whiltfishiscooking:
and green almonds, and dust with additional fish spice mix.
Deep-fry battered zucchini blossoms in 195 -c I 380 "Foil until
recipes for most components follow the dashboard page, some golden brown, about 3 min. Drain on paper towel-lined tray.
Po ur spice m.i.J: emulsion at table.
may be found instead in other parts of the book, in which case a

page reference is given. Components that are optional are
clearly noted as such.
For each component. we list the quantity needed and three
useful times: the hands-on prep time, the time needed for any @ HALIBUT BRANDADE Yields 600 g
QUANTITY SCALI NG PROCEDURE
finishing steps during assembly, and the cooking time. Cooking INGREDIENT
steps that do not require active attention are set in italics; in @ The quantity of the whole milk will
depend on the ~in oft he fish u
Whole milk
Salted halibut
as needed
16<1g 100"
@ Soak halibut in milk for 12 h.
Drainfish,anddiscardmilk.
.,.ertastheshapt"andsizeofthe opllona~-pacell87
Rept'atstepsl and 2 three times, (or total soaking time
cases where a dish involves both attended and unattended Garlic, sliced and 2Sg 16% of46h.Reserve20gof liquidfromfinal soaki ng step.
blanchedtwke
cooking steps, times are given separately for each. 0 @ Va.:;uumsealreservedsoakingliquid,halibut,and
gartictogcther.
Good quality. store-bought salt cod
Instructions for finishing and final assembly of the plated dish canbt'substitutedforthehahbut. @ Cook sous vide at 56 "C/ 135 r to a core temperature
of57 "C/ IJ3 r, about20 min. Hold at this core
appear after the table of components. The most difficult part of tempt"ralureforanotherl5min.
@ Pulse in food processor until finely shredded.
making a complex meal is completing all the last-minute cooking, Water !kg 625% (!) Vacuum seal potato slict:S in a thin even layw.
dressing, and garnishing in the few minutes before it is served. To

help you pull off this feat, all of these final steps are presented
Yukon Gold or othe-r .,.':IX)' 250g
po(atoes,thlnlysliced
Utravirginoti~oil 90s ,..
15. . Cooksous vide at90 "C / 194 r for45 min.
Drain pcMatoes, and pass through ricer.
@ MixirllopcMatoes.
@ PassthroughafineJieve.
together in this spot and arranged clearly in a practical order. rold sieved pc:utoes into halibutgulic mbrture.
~ Refrigerate.
The remaining pages of the plated-dish recipe are devoted to
recipes for the components, @ each of which is presented using
the same approach we take for example recipes (see page 1-96).
Where space permits, we have included photographs showing
some of the steps involved. Notes in the margin @ provide tips
and ideas for substitutions.
ABOUT THE RECIPES xi

of gelatin to use, which is 1.6% of the new total reasoned that Indian curry dishes, like American
(450 g) of other ingredients: 7.2 grams of gelatin. barbecue, come in a vast variety of regional styles.
Without the special percentage, you would be The recipes she came up with were so good that we
tempted to use just 6.75 grams of gelatin, and the had to put them in the book. They illustrate how
result may not set the way the original recipe does. even culinary traditions stretching back hundreds
(or in some cases, thousands) of years can be
revisited with a Modernist palate and sensibility-
Recipes for Plated Dishes to delicious and thought-provoking effect.
The book features three fundamental classes of
recipes: example, parametric, and plated dish.
Each serves a different purpose in illustrating how Credit Where Credit is Due
particular ingredients or techniques can be Because we selected recipes to illustrate important
applied in the kitchen. Example recipes and concepts in the development of Modernist cuisine,
parametric recipes are described on page 197. it is only natural that many originated as contribu-
Plated dishes come in a wide variety of styles. tions from the chefs who first used the given
We have full-on Modernist dishes that would not technique in a fine-dining context. For example,
be out of place at leading Modernist restaurants. Ferran Adria was the first to introduce spherifi-
But we also have dishes that are far more informal, cation to a restaurant setting, and we have includ-
like barbecue from the American South, a pork ed example recipes that cover two of his iconic
belly picnic, and even the perfect omelet. For us, a creations: imitation caviar and faux olives.
plated recipe doesn't have to be fancy, as long as It is not always the case that the example recipe
it's made with the quality and care of more elabo- we have is from the chef who did it first, however;
rate preparations. Our hamburger is the best one we chose some recipes simply because they seemed
we know how to make, and we believe that you to best exemplify the topics explained in the book.
should put every bit as much effort into making a Although we have gone to some effort to document
great hamburger as you would if you were making history in this chapter, the rest of the book is first
dishes with loftier ambitions. and foremost about teaching technique.
Some Modernist dishes are lavishly complex a Every recipe included here was tested in our
Ia Heston Blumenthal, while others are boldly kitchen laboratory after a tremendous amount of
minimalist in the style of Ferran Adria. Other our own recipe development work. But we've also
Modernist chefs, including Grant Achatz, David had a great deal of help from leading chefs around
Kinch, and Joan Roca, have their own styles the world, and we believe it is important to give
somewhere in between. Our plated-dish recipes credit where it is due. Some of the people who
exemplify all of those styles. inspired recipes in this book don't know or neces-
The other plated dishes are no less stylistically sarily endorse the fact that we've used their recipe
For more on Grant Achatz, see page 1-68. For diverse. It might come as a surprise that we devote as a launching point for one of our own. That is
more on David Kinch, Joan Roca, and Thierry so much attention to American barbecue, but we're particularly true of historical recipes, from chefs
Rautureau, see page 167, page 1-58, and page
h, respectively. big fans of this cuisine. Indeed, we find that who are no longer with us but who, we hope, would
barbecue exhibits enormous depth and complexity be pleased to play a role in this collection. The older,
that is rarely understood outside its home region more traditional recipes are also among those we've
(and too frequently ignored outside of the United most modified to recast them in a Modernist style
States). Initially we set out to create one barbecue with newer techniques or ingredients.
recipe, but the idea soon grew to include sauces and Thus, if we cite a recipe as being" inspired by" a
barbecue styles from every region of the country particular chef, it means we have modified the
(see page 66). Perhaps we went overboard, but our recipe in important ways. We may have applied
goal is to serve up a broad range of experiences. Modernist ingredients or techniques to a basic
After our test kitchen had made its way through recipe idea that was first developed in a traditional
the barbecue recipes, a member of the kitchen context.
team, Anjana Shanker, suggested developing For example, we include a recipe for spot
Modernist versions of some Indian curries. She prawns in a foie gras nage, inspired by a dish from
x ii VOLUME 5 PLATED - DI SH REC I PES

19
Thierry Rautureau, a French chef in Seattle with the author, not to the book. The same holds for web
whom I apprenticed for some time. His version is a sites and other venues for disseminating recipes. So
fantastic dish, but it is entirely traditional in its we decided as a rule to assign credit to individuals.
technique and ingredients. Our version uses a But we recognize that the development of
Modernist emulsifier, propylene glycol alginate, to recipes is often a team effort. So when we credit
keep the nage from separating, and we cook the chefs like Blumenthal or Adria, that credit should
prawns sous vide or with low-temperature steam. be interpreted as going to the culinary teams they
On one hand, ours is very different from Rautu- lead. Many of the innovations likely have been
reau's recipe, but on the other, it is completely developed, honed, or improved by many people on
inspired by a truly memorable meal at which he the team, not just the chef who leads the group.
served this dish more than 10 years ago. The word chef, of course, is French for "chief,
Another reason we might note that a recipe is manager, or leader." The very best chefs are exactly
"inspired by" a particular chef is that we are using that: leaders who inspire and manage a team. It is
only a single component from a dish that that chef customary to attribute any team's efforts to the
created. The goal in this case isn't to showcase the leader, particularly in the kitchen, but we all know
chef's cuisine and the original dish in its full form that the leaders would be a lot less productive
but simply to use part of the recipe as a teaching without their teams' support. This book, by the
tool, somewhat out of context. We're incredibly way, is no different; without an incredible team of
grateful to all these chefs who-whether they talented people, it would have been impossible to
know it or not-have inspired the development of create it.
recipes in this book. As for the photographs that accompany our
In other cases, we started by creating a dish or recipes, most are images that we took ourselves,
an element of a dish, then sought out a traditional though in a few cases we do include an image that
recipe in which to embed our new creation. This was supplied by the chef who created the dish. We
process led to some of the "inspired by" recipes in recognize that the way we've assembled and
the collection-they have at least one element that presented each dish may or may not be done
was inspired by the chef we name, but the rest of exactly as it would have at the chef's restaurant; but
the components may be quite different. the intent is to exemplify the chef's inspiration. We
We say that a recipe is "adapted from" a particu- have no expectation that this book duplicates chefs'
lar chef when it is one step closer to how that chef recipes and culinary styles as they would express Physical safety is always an impor-
tant consideration in the kitchen,
might actually make it. In most such cases, we them in their own cookbooks. After all, that is why and it can be especially so with
have still made some adjustments to techniques or they write them. Our book is instead a repository certain aspects of Modernist
ingredients, and we may have rearranged proce- of culinary technique, with many ideas that most cooking. Some items in the Mod-
ernist toolbox, such as liquid
dures a bit to explain things more clearly. cookbooks don't have the space or resources to nitrogen, are unusual, and you need
Ultimately, we take full responsibility for all provide. to learn unique safety precautions
recipes in this book and how they turn out in your The remaining recipes are those that we in order to handle them. But we'd
also point out that many elements
kitchen. We've tested them all extensively, and developed from scratch on our own. For example, of traditional cooking can require
although we'd like to feel they are foolproof, it's we wanted to figure out how to make an instant special precautions as well. Oil for
likely that some steps allow a bit more latitude than souffie, but we really had no starting point to deep-frying that's heated to 205 "C
I 400 " F is a pretty dangerous
we anticipated, leaving a little room for error. work from. We just began working through a liquid, too.
After a lot of discussion, we decided to credit range of ideas and options without a clear path, Food safety is important as
the recipes (both "inspired by" and "adapted eventually creating a recipe that calls for expel- well- so much so that we devote
chapters 2 and 3 to the subject. In
from") to individual chefs rather than to restau- ling a pre-made souffie mixture from a whipping addition to these specialized
rants. There are several reasons for this. First, siphon into a ramekin, then putting it in the oven. sections, we have provided
many chefs have more than one restaurant, and It's a method we're quite pleased with. For all we safety-related notes in many of the
recipes. These notes are not meant
some have television shows for which they have know, someone else out there had already done to be exhaustive-cooks should
developed recipes: Heston Blumenthal is one the same thing-we just weren't able to find it. If exercise the appropriate care and
example, but there are others. we've inadvertently missed someone who feels caution in every dish they make-
but they may call attention to cases
Similar issues come up with cookbook writers; in she or he developed a dish that we have not given where safety issues are not neces-
those cases, it seems clear that credit should go to that person credit for, we apologize. sarily obvious.
ABOUT T HE RECIP ES x iii

PLATED - DISH RECIPES
19
BEEF RIB STEAK 5
MUSHROOM SWISS BURGER 11
AUTUMN HARVEST PORK ROAST 17
RACK OF LAMB WITH GARLIC 25
BLANQUETTE DEVEAU 31
CHOUCROUTE ROYALE 35
TE NDER CUTS 3
1
BEEF RIB STEAK
Shiitake marmalade, creamed watercress, aged beefjus
Many people prefer their beef rare to medium rare; so do we. Yet We serve the jus with a thick rib steak topped with rich suet mous-
when making consomme or jus, the same people often cook beef into seline and a comforting cup of silky smooth potatoes. Potato puree is
submission at fairly high temperatures-partly because they think delicious, but because nearly half its weight is butter, it can lose potato
that is necessary to extract flavor and get the right body, and partly flavor. We cook the potatoes with potato flakes in raw potato juice to
out of deference to a tradition of cooking stocks for hours. Taking the help regain that flavor. This might seem like cheating, but try toasting
opposite tack, we developed a method to make a jus sous vide to the flakes in clarified butter before adding them to the puree. The
capture the essence of rare beef. intense roasted-potato flavor you get will make you a convert.
YI ELD: four portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, juicet) gas blowtorch, whipping siphon, Pacojet
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: centrifuge
T IME REQUIRED: 8 h overall, including 5~ h preparation and 1 h to cook and finish
ORDER OF PREPARATION:
TIME TO
COMPONENT PREP COOK FIN ISH QUANTITY
Tomato Water lOmin 1 h* 40g

see page 2366
Brown BeefJus 45min 4h 100 g

see page 2344
Creamed Watercress 30min 2 h* 3min 120g
see page 2426
White Beef Stock 15min l V2 h 350g
see page 2296
White Onion Puree lOmin 30min SOg
see page 2424
Aged Rare BeefJus lSmin 4h* 10min 200g
Shiitake Marmalade 20min 20 min and 3 h* 30 s 30g
Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak Smin 55 min 800g
Pot ato Puree 15 min and 1 h* 3Smin 700g
Suet Mousseline 20min 20min 10min 100 g
Salt Gel 2min Smin 20g

optional
Toasted Garlic Chips Smin 20min 12
GARNISH
Rosemary blossoms 16
Green peppercorns (fresh) 12
Wild watercress leaves 12

*(unattended times)
TENDER CUT S 5
ASSEMBLY:
Heat beef suet mousseline in 62 c I 144 p water bath. Transfer warm potato puree to serving bowl, fold in grain mustard
Reheat steak in water bath to cooking temperature used. For if desired, and season with salt.
estimated reheating times, which vary with thickness, see next page Warm shiitake marmalade over medium heat, and season as needed.
and 2276. Cut steak from bone, and slice 5 mm I 3/16 in thick.
Remove steak from bag, and sear all surfaces with blowtorch until Garnish steak with garlic chips, rosemary blossoms, peppercorns,
golden. Let rest for 10 min. and watercress leaves.
Serve mousseline, creamed watercress, shiitake marmalade, potato
While steak is resting:
puree, and rare beef jus on side in individual serving dishes.
Reheat rare beef jus in 52 c
I 125 p water bath for 10 min.
Grate salt gel over steak at table .
Reheat potato puree in 75 c I 167 p water bath for 10 min.
Pacotize frozen watercress cream.
Searing the steak is easier with a high-heat torch, such as
a MAPP-gas or oxyacetylene torch . Small butane torches
For more on the stepbystep procedure for have a tendency to burn "dirty' and taint the food with the
making creamed watercress, see page 2426. taste of fue l. Butane torches also don't have as hot a flame.
AGED RARE BEEF JUS Yields250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Aged beef chuck steak, 700 g 700% CD Vacuum seal.
cut into 2.5 em / 1 in cubes 0 Cook so us vide in 53 c I 127 f bath for 4 h.
Bromelain is an enzyme extracted Bromelain capsules, 1.4 g 1.4% Press against fine sieve to get juice, disca rding meat.
from pineapples that is sometimes ground to fine powder
@) Centrifuge juice at 27,500g for 30 min to yield abo ut
used for tenderizing meat. Adding (optional, NOW brand)
100 g of aged beef jus, and rese rve.
it here greatly in creases the yie ld
of jus. Water, cold 100g 100% Disperse gums in water.
Xanthan gum 0.3g 0.3%
(0.75%)*
Guargum 0.1 g 0.1 %
(0.05%)*
MSG doesn't deserve its bad name. Aged beef jus, 100g 100% Blend gum mixture into aged beef jus until
It is in everything from shiitake from above completely fluid.
mushrooms and tomatoes to
mother's milk. See page 1213 for
Monosodium glutamate 2g 0.4% 0 Season jus.
(MSG) Cool, and vacuum seal.
more information on this ubiqui -
tous naturally occurring compound. Salt to taste Refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weight ofwater and aged beefjus)
6 VOLUME 5 PLAHDDISH RECIPES

Beef rib is not one muscle but three: the
9
loin (the eye), the deckle (cap), and the
relatively unknown spinalus dorsi. Many
cooks know that the deckle is extra juicy
and tender. Unfortunately, because it sits
on the outside of the roast. the deckle is
often overcooked. It is best to remove it
and cook it separately, as you would a
tender fillet.
The spinalus dorsi-the small, dark red,
crescent-shaped muscle that lies next to
the chine bone-is so intimately blended
into the loin muscle that it is sometimes
difficult to locate. In light-colored meats,
such as pork. its darker color makes it easy
to spot. and a cut that includes it is labeled
the "best end." But this especially tender,
juicy, and flavorful muscle is difficult to
spot in red meats, including beef.
The muscle is so good to eat, however,
that you should make sure your butcher
cuts your rib roast to include it. Ask that
your steaks be cut from between ribs 5
and 6, and 9 and 10. For more details. see
Cutting. page 3-44.
SHIITAKE MARMALADE Yieldsl50 g
Shallots, fin ely min ced 70g 70% CD Saute over low heat until tender, about 20 min.
Shiitake mushrooms, 26g 26%
brunoise
Clarified unsalte d butte r lOg 10%
Garlic, brunoise l Og 10%
Re nd e red beef marrow lOg 10%
Tomato water 40g 40% 0 Add to sha ll ot mixture, and reduce to 50 g to make
see page 2366 marma lade base.
Sherry vinegar 20g 20% Reserve.
Brown beef jus lOO g 100% 0 Disperse gelatin into beef jus.
see page 2344
Heat to fu lly dissolve ge latin.
160 Bloom gelatin 3g 3%
Xa ntha n gum 0.3g 0.3% Blend into stock red uctio n.
0 Fold in oth er ingredients.
Black pe pper, coa rse ly 0.25g 0 .25% Season marmalade.
ground Cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
Salt to taste
SOUS VIDE BEEF RIB STEAK Yields800 g
Prim e aged rib steak, 1 kg 100% CD Vacuum sea l rib steak with suet.
on bone
see page 339
0 Cook so us vid e to core temperature of 53 oc I 127 Ffor
ra re, 55 oc / 131 Ffor medium rare, or 57 oc / 135 Ffor
Re nde red suet 75g 7.5% pink, byusingwaterbath set l oc / 2 F higher than the
target core temperature. For estimated cook ing times,
wh ich va ry with steak thickness, see page 2276.
Coo l quickly in ice-water bat h, and refrigerate.
TENDER CUT S 7
POTATO PUREE Yields700 g
Yukon Gold potatoes, 375g 250% CD juice potatoes in a vegetable juicer.
peeled 0 Centrifuge juice at 27,500g for 1 h.
In stead of using a centrifuge, you
can let potato juice sit overnight Decant juice through fine sieve.
to settle, then carefully decant @) Vacuum seal.
the jui ce.
Cook so us vide in 90 oc l 194 F bath for 20 min.
Pass through fine sieve, and rese rve 150 g.
Potato juice, 150g 100% 0 Warm butter over low heat.
from above
Add potato flakes and toast, stirring constantly,
Clarified unsalted butter 37.5g 25% until golden brown, about 7 min.
Instant potato flakes 37.5g 25% Add potato juice, bring to a boil, and remove
from heat.
Unsalted butter, melted 200g 133% @ Fold butter in gently until melted.
@ Reserve 425 g.
Yukon Gold potatoes 325g 216% @ Bake in 200 oc I 400 Foven for 1 h.
@ Cut potatoes in half, and scoop out hot flesh.
@ Pass through fine-mesh drum sieve .
@ Reserve 280 g of sieved potatoes.
Potato juice-butter 425g 283% @ Whisk Ultra-Sperse into potato juice-butter mixture
mixture, over low heat until warm.
from above @ Whisk in sieved, baked potatoes slowly.
Sieved potatoes, 280g 186% @ Coo l in ice-water bath.
from above
@ Vacuum seal.
Ultra-Sperse A 3.5 g 2.3%
(National Starch brand) @ Refrigerate.
Grain mustard, optional 30g 20% @ Reserve individually.

Salt to taste
SUET MOUSSELINE Yields300 g

White beef stock 350g 100% CD Combine, and reduce to 100 g.
see page 2-296
0 Strain.
White wine (dry) 250g 71%
Cool.
Shallot, finely minced 55 g 16%
@) Measure 75 g.
White wine vinegar 35 g 10%
Black pepper 0.7g 0.2%
Wine reduction, 75g 21% Disperse gellan in cream .
from above
Blend th ickened cream w ith wine reduction.
Heavy cream, cold 50g 14.5% 0 Vacuum seal.
Low-acyl gellan 1.2 g 0.3% Hydrate in 85 oc I 185 Fbath for 5 min.
(Kelcogel F) (0.3%)*
Cool until set. Puree to fluid gel.
Egg yolks, cooked so us 90 g 26% @ Blend with fluid ge l.
vide in 62 oc I 144 Fbath
for35 min
Beef suet, vacuum sealed 200 g 57% @ Warm fluid gel mixture and suet separately in 62 oc I
Lemon juice to taste 144 F bath.
Salt to taste @ Blend warm suet into fluid ge l until fu lly emu lsified.
@ Season mixture generously.
@ Pour into 1 I siphon, and charge with two nitrous
oxide cartridges.
@ Hold in 62 oc I 144 F bath until use.
*(% oftotal weightofheavycream, wine reduction, egg yolks, and beefsuet)
8 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

19
SALT GEL Yields450g The salt gel can be grated and used
to season any dish in which you
want salt crystals that w ill not
Distill ed water, co ld 400g 100% <D Disperse sa lt and agar in water. dissolve.
Salt 40g 10% 0 Bring to boil, and hold for 2 min wh il e stirring
Agar 12g 3% to hydrate.
Cast in desired mold.
0 Refrigerate.
TOASTED GARLIC CHIPS Yields 24 pieces

Garlic cloves 50g 100% <D Sli ce 1 mm I X in thick.
Milk, cold as needed 0 Cover garlic sli ces with milk, heat to 70 c l 158 F,
and drain.
Repeat two more times .
Frying oil as needed 0 Deep-fry ga rli c sli ces in 160 c I 32 0 F oil until
golden an d crisp, about 5 min.
Salt to taste Seaso n.
Store in coo l, dry place.
TENDER CUTS 9
19
MUSHROOM SWISS BURGER
Emmental cheese single, mushroom ketchup, shallot rings
The hamburger is an icon of American cuisine. But this simple to the local White Castle Original Slider, while folks on the West
sandwich has spawned an impressive range of guises. At Louis' Coast are more likely to sing the praises of an In-N-Out burger,
Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, the hamburger is interpreted Animal Style.
with puritanical asceticism: a broiled beef patty between toast, no All of these burgers are fantastic in their own way. But to our
condiments. taste, it's hard to beat a juicy, tender mushroom burger with Swiss
At the other extreme, Daniel Boulud's decadent version is made cheese. We therefore humbly present a no-holds-barred Modernist
with a complex blend of meats-and stuffed with foie gras. Many cheeseburger-one of the tastiest products to emerge from our
inhabitants of America's heartland attach a deep cultural importance culinary laboratory.
YIELD: Jour portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous-vide equipment, meat grinder with 4 mm / o/16 in plate
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: food processor
TIME REQUIRED : 30 h overall, including 20 h preparation time and 20 min to assemble
TIME TO
COMPONENT PREP COOK FINISH QUANTITY
Tomato Confit 30min 5 h* 40g

see page 62
Brown Beef Stock 30min 2 h* 90g

see page 2296
Short-Rib Patty 20min 2 h* 5-8 min four patties,

see page 3234 about 120 g each
Hamburger Bun 1h 30h* 2min four buns,

about 90 g each
Mushroom Broth Smin 1h 14g
Freeze-Dried Shiitake Mushroom Smin 48 h* 30g

optional, see pages 3372 and 2450
Mushroom Ketchup 20min 45min 10 g
Restructured Emmental Slice 10min 2 h* and 15 min Ph min four slices,

see page 4222 15 g each
Ultrasonic Fries 10min l lh h* 3min 350g

optional, see page 3325
Strawberry Milk Shake 5min 1 h* 2min 400g

Onion Rings 5min 1 hand 4 h* 2min 200g

Hamburger Glaze 2min 30min 1 min 40g
Sauteed Maitake Mushroom 2min 5min 2min 14g
Smoked Lettuce 10min 325 g
Compressed Tomato 5min 80g
*(unattended times)
TENDER CUTS 11
ASSEMBLY:
Preheat griddle to 230 oc I 450 op, or use grill. Deep-fry onion rings for 2 min, taking care not to puncture or crack
Preheat frying oil to 200 oc I 390 op for onion rings or fries. breading.
Cook patties on griddle or grill until done. Drain fried onion rings on paper towel.
Warm hamburger glaze.
While patties are cooking:
Top patties with cheese l 1/ 2 min before they finish cooking.
Brush cut sides of hamburger buns with rendered beef suet.
Toast buns on griddle. While patties are resting:
Saute Maitake mushrooms in suet until tender and golden, about Brush bottoms of hamburger buns with mushroom ketchup. Brush
3 min on each side. tops of buns with hamburger glaze.
Deep-fry fries (if using) until golden and crisp, about 3 min. Season tomato slices. If serving milk shake, place ground dry ice in
Drain fries on paper towels, and keep warm. glasses and pour milk shake base evenly among them.
Dredge frozen onion rings in tapioca starchj shake off excess. Top with patties, lettuce, tomato, mushrooms, and bun.
Dip rings in egg. Serve onion rings and bubbling strawberry milk shake on the side.
Roll rings in onion cracker breading until evenly coated, and
transfer to silicone mat.
For more on food safety considerations when
cooking ground meats. see page 1-174.
For a tender bun, use White Lily HAMBURGER BUNS Yields 12 buns
bread flour, which is made from
soft wheat and milled to produce a
minimum of damaged starch . For the sponge:
Aficionados of Southern biscuits White Lily bread flour 310 g 65% CD Mix together on low speed, using a paddle attach-
swear by this brand, but other soft
Yeast (fresh) 2g 0.4% ment, for 8 min.
wheat pastry flours may be used
instead. If substituting all-purpose Water (5 oc I 41 F) 189 g 40 % 0 Cover tightly, and refrigerate for 24- 48 h.
flour, use a little more water when For the dough:
making the dough. The buns will be
chewy and tougher but still White Lily bread flour 480g 100% Mix together flour and water on low speed for 4 min.
presentable. Water (30 oc I 86 F) 270g 56% 0 Stop mixer, and cover bowl with hot, wet cloth for
45min .
If using instant yeast, use one-third Yeast (fresh) 9.5g 2% Mix into flour mixture.
of the amount indicated in the Sponge, from above 120 g 25% Add to flour mixture, and mix on medium speed for
recipe.
Sugar 72g 15% 4min .
Egg yolks 50g 10% 0 Ferment dough, covered, at room temperature for1 h.
Vegetable shortening 25g 5% Form into twelve 90 g balls.
Salt 9.5g 2% Arrange balls into 11 em I 41,4 in ring mold .
Vanilla extract @ Proof at 85% RH and 40 oc I 104 F until dough has
0.5g 0.1 %
(two drops) expanded to fill ring, about 1Y2 h. If proofing cabinet
is unavailable, cover with oiled plastic wrap and keep
Lemon essential oil 0 .2g 0.04% in warm place until proofed, at least 1Yz h.
(one drop)
@ Press gently on proofed buns to flatten .
L-cysteine is an amino acid that L-cysteine 0.04g 0.01 %
causes gluten to relax . It gives this Whole milk as needed @ Brush bun tops lightly.
dough its characteristic flowing
Black poppy seeds, as needed @ Combine, and sprinkle on bun tops.
texture.
toasted @ Bake in 260 oc I 500 F oven for 6 min.
Black onion seeds as needed
Black sesame seeds, as needed
toasted
For more on fat-rendering strategies, see page Rendered beef suet 40g 8.5% @ Measure and refrigerate for service.
J145.
12 VO LUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIP ES

19
MUSHROOM KETCHUP Yields 750g
Yellow onions, thinly 350g 54% CD Saute until translucent, about 7 min.
sliced
Olive oil 53g 8%
Garlic, thinly sliced 32g 5% 0 Add to onions, and cook for1 min.
Ginger, thinly sliced 7g 1%
Crimini mushrooms, 650g 100% Combine with onion mixture and simmer, stirring
thinly sliced frequently, until mushrooms are very tender and
Malt vinegar 155g 24% liquid has evaporated, about 35 min.
Dark ale lOSg 16% 0 Blend until smooth .
11% Pass through fine sieve.

Mushroom broth, 70g
from above Adjust seasoning to taste.
Barley malt syrup 40g 6% 0 Measure 800 g of ketchup.
Cane vinegar 40g 6%
Molasses 40g 6%
Fish sauce 34g 5%
Freeze-dried shiitake 30g 4.5%
mushrooms (or dried
shiitake powder)
Sea salt 15.5g 2.5%
Honey lOg 1.5%
Horseradish, freshly 7g 1%
grated
Mace blades 4.2g 0.6%
Allspice berries 2.2g 0.3%
(two berries)
Freeze-dried coffee 0.6g 0.1%
powder
Ketchup, from above 800g 123% Blend together until smooth, and refrigerate.
Xanthan gum 1.6 g 0.25%
(0.2%)*
*(% ofweight ofketchup)
'
For more on ultrasonic fries, including a

step-by-step procedure, see page 3-325.
TENDER CUT S 13
For more on restructuring cheese, including a RESTRUCTURED EMMENTAL SLICES Yields350 g
step-by-step procedure, see page 4222.
Sodium citrate lOg 6.7% (I) Combine.
Salt 3.75g 2.5%
Iota carrageenan 4.5g 3%
(0.95%)*
Kappa carrageenan l.Sg 1%
(0.32%)*
Water (5 c / 40 "F) lOOg 67% 0 Combine water and ale.
Wheat ale 75g 50% Blend in carrageenan powder.
@) Simmer for 2 min to fully hydrate.
Aged Em mental cheese, 150g 100% Add to simmering mixture, a little at a time, blending
grated constantly with a hand blender until texture is fluid.
Comte cheese, grated 13Sg 90% Pour into greased cylindrica l mold 7 em / 2')4 in . in
diameter and at least 14 em / SV2 in deep.
0 Refrigerate until set, at least 2 h.
Unmold, and slice to desired thickness.
Reserve between sheets of plastic wrap.
*(% oftotal weight ofall ingredients)
MUSHROOM BROTH Yields250 g

Shallots, thinly sliced 37g 25% 0 Saute until go lden, about 15 min.
Olive oil 8.5g 6%
Water 250g 180% 0 Pressure-cook with shallots at a gauge pressure of
Crimini mushrooms, 140g 100% 1.4 bar / 21 psi for45 min.
thinly sliced Strain and cool.
@) Reserve for mushroom ketchup.
HAMBURGER GLAZE Yields100 g

Brown beef stock 90g 100% (I) Combine.
see page 2296
For more on breading onions rings, including a 0 Simmer until reduced to 100 g.
step-by-step guide, see page 4-302. Tomato confit, pureed 40g 45%
Refrigerate.
see page 62
Rendered beef suet 1.5 g 1.7%
Smoked salt 1.5 g 1.7%
14 VOLUME 5 PLATED - DISH RECIPES

1
SAUTEED MAITAKE MUSHROOM Yields100g
Maitake mushrooms, 90 g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually.
each cut into four even
slices about1.5 em I o/s in
thick
Rendered beef suet 40g 44%
see page 3 145
Salt 1.5 g 1.5%
SMOKED LETTUCE Yields 90 g

Water 150g 167% CD Mix together.
Hickory liquid smoke 0.8g 0.9%
(Wright's brand) (three drops)
Iceberg lettuce, cut 90g 100% 0 Pour smoky water over lettuce.
1 em 1% in squares Place co nta in er, un cove red, in vacuum chamber.
For more on smoking techniques, see page
0 Pull vacu um until water boils, then turn off machin e
2-132.
and a llow lettuce to abso rb smoky water in vacuum
chamberfor20 min.
Drain lettuce, and refrigerate.
COMPRESSED TOMATO Yields300 g

Large beefsteak tomato 300 g 100% CD Cut X in bottom, then blanch for10-15 s.
0 Shock in ice water.
@ Peel.
0 Cut fou r slices about 1 em I 'I in thick.
Vacuum seal to compress. For more on vegetable compression techniques,
Trim to match size of bun, and refrigerate. see page 2213.
Black pepper to taste 0 Reserve individually.

Flaky salt to taste
1
AUTUMN HARVEST PORK ROAST
Chestnut confit, prune coals, pain d'ipices
A good pork roast is as sublime as it is uncommon. The flesh should traditional flavors of Gascony-Armagnac, prunes, chestnuts, and
be tender and juicy, the skin delicate and crispy. But how do you get quatre epices-seemed particularly appealing.
superb crackling without overcooking the meat? As a final modernist twist to our interpretation of a great pork
The answer is to cook them separately. That may sound simple, but roast, we give a nod to the less ornate, simple origins of the dish: a
we have added a nonobvious step: cryosear the loin using liquid pot roast sealed in a cast-iron vessel and cooked over the coals and
nitrogen just before frying the loin and skin. The end result is a puffed, ash of a dying fire. One of our chefs, Grant Crilly, encased the
crispy skin that covers a loin cooked evenly and easily sous vide. braised prunes in a hard, savory sugar glass made from the roast's
The possibilities for accompaniments to this fine centerpiece are braising juices. He then exploited a bit of chemistry and a touch of
countless. But we developed this dish during autumn, when the physics to foam the prunes to look like the embers of a fire.
YIELD: four portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, pressure cooker., siphon
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: freeze dryer., liquid nitrogen
TIME REQUIRED: 49 h overall, including 5~ h preparation time and 45 min to assemble
TIME TO
Cured Bacon 45min 72 h* 250g

optional, see page 3-182
Braised Bacon 5min 12 h* 10min 30 pieces,

about 8 g each
Charred Leek Oil 5min 45min 25 g

optional
Chestnut Confit lOmin 12 h* 10min 200g
Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline 10min 20h* lOmin 80g
Salted Caramel Apple Puree 20min 20h* 10min 160 g
Brown Pork Stock 45min Jl/2 h 400g

see page 2296
Banyuls Glaze 30min 2h 3min 100g
Chestnut Puffs 10min 15min 240g
Chestnut Cream 20min 15min 120g
Pain d'Epices Powder 10min 145 g
Pork Loin Roast 20min 48 h* 1'/ 2 h 800g
Puffed Pork Skin 1h 6 h* 300g

see page 3126
Spiced Ash 5min 20g
Prune Coals 20min 120g

see page 4314
*(unattended times)
TENDER CUTS 17
ASSEMBLY:
Cook pork loin sous vide in 61c I 142 p bath to core temperature After pork loin is cooked:
of 60 c I 140 p, about 11/z h; longer for a full pork loin. Dip cooked pork loin in liquid nitrogen for 30 s, then in warm water
for 5 s. (See page 3-126; this step is optional.)
While pork loin is cooking:
Sift thin layer of starch over pork loin, and shake off excess.
Preheat oven to 200 c I 390 p for finishing chestnut puffs.
Roll meat in whipped methylcellulose, then in minced pork skin.
Heat frying oil for chestnut puffs to 185 c I 365 p,
Deep-fry in 185 c I 365 p oil until just puffed and golden, about 30 s.
Charge chestnut cream-filled siphon with two nitrous oxide
Rest meat for 3 min.
cartridges, and reheat in 70 c I 158 p bath for 15 min.
Reheat apple puree, bacon, chestnut confit, and cipolline onions in While meat is resting:
60 c I 140 p bath for about 10 min. Warm Banyuls glaze.
Cut onions in half, and sear until golden. Fill each puff with chestnut cream by using an injection attachment
Bake chestnut puffs for 10 min. on siphon to pierce puff.
Deep-fry chestnut puffs for 4 min. Transfer to paper towel-lined Dust each puff with pain d' epices powder.
baking sheet, and reserve warm. Slice roast between each bone, and arrange one slice per portion.
Whip methylcellulose solution with electric whisk or mixer until Finish with Banyuls glaze, apple puree, chestnut confit, onions,
stiff peaks form. Transfer solution to container large enough to prune coals, and bacon. Dust spiced ash over dish .
accommodate whole pork loin. Serve chestnut puffs on side.
BRAISED BACON Yields250 g

Home-cured bacon 250 g 100% CD Rinse for10 min in co ld running water.

(or store-bought bacon)
see page 3182
0 Cut into 1 em by 2.5 em I 'I in by 1 in pieces.
Water SOg 20% Layer bacon pieces even ly in so us vide bag, add water,
and vacuum sea l.
0 Cook so us vide in 60 c I 140 F bath for 12 h.
Cool and refrigerate.
CHARRED LEEK OIL OPTIONAL Yields70 g

Leek (whole) 15 g 100% CD Dehydrate in 120 c I 250 F oven until evenly golden
brown, about45 min.
Grapeseed oil 35g 233% 0 Heat oil and vinegar together to 82 c l 180 F.
Banyuls vinegar 20g 133%
(or other semisweet
red vinegar)
Salt 2g 13% Blend leek with hot liquid and salt for 3 min.
0 Cool to room temperature, then decant oil from surface.
Reserve for sweet-and-sour cipolline.
CHESTNUT CONFIT Yields200 g

Italian chestnuts 180g 100% CD Cut Xinto stem side of each chestnut, and blanch for 30 s.
0 Peel off receded skin and she ll carefu ll y.
For more on fat-rendering strategies. see page Rendered pork fat 90g 50% Vacuum seal chestnuts with fat and sa lt.
3-145. Salt 2g 1% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 c 1 194 F bath for12 h.
Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate.
18 VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH RECIPES

1
SWEET-AND-SOUR CIPOLLINE ONION Yie lds 80 g

Cipollin e onion, pee led 100 g 100% CD Vacu um sea l together.

White wine vinegar 55g 55% 0 Cook so us vid e in 90 oc I 194 F bath for1 h 50 min.
Chestnut honey 29g 29% Coo l imm ed iate ly in ice-water bath, then refrigerate.
Charred leek oil, from 25 g 25%
above (o r neutral oil)
Water lOg 10%
Salt 1.5g 1.5%
BANYULS GLAZE Yields3 00 g
Ground pork 2.25 kg 100% CD Coat meats with oil.

Pork trotter, bon e in, 500g 22% 0 Roast in 190 oc I 375 F oven until gold en brown, st irring
finel y ground frequently to ensu re eve n brow ning.
Frying oil 225g 10% Re move browned meat from pan, rese rving fat.
Sweet onions, peeled, 500g 22% @) Sweat vegetab les in pressure cooker with reserved fa t
thinly sliced until tender.
Carrots peeled, 450g 20%
thinly sliced
Water 1.2 kg 50% Deglaze vegetables.
Brown pork stock 400g 18%
see page 2296
Banyuls wine (or other 350g 16%
semisweet red wine)
Bay leaf 4.5g 0.2% Add w ith browned meat to vegetables in cooker.
0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1.4 bar I 21 psi
for 1'h h.
Coo l and stra in .
Reduce to glaze, and refrige rate.
Banyuls vinegar (o r 50g 2% @ Measure and reserve individually for se rvice.
other semisweet red
vin egar)
Unsalted butter 50g 2%
Salt 1g 0.04%
TENDE R CUT S 19
SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PUREE Yields200 g
Sugar 40g 27% CD Cook to dark caramel, about 4 min.
Apple cider 80g 52% 0 Deglaze caramel.
(store-bought) Cool syrup to room temperature.
Apples (firm and tart), 150g 100% 0 Vacuum seal together with syrup.
peeled, cored, and Cook so us vide in 90 oc / 194 F bath for 20 h.
quartered
Transfer from vacuum bag to a small pan.
lemon juice 2.5g 1.7%
0 Reduce juice, basting apple constantly, to thick syrup,
For more on making clarified and brown butter, Clarified brown butter 2g 1.3% about5 min.
see page 4-213. Salt lg 0.7%
Xanthangum 0.3g 0.2% Puree with apples and syrup to smooth consistency.
Pass through fine sieve.
@ Refrigerate.
CHESTNUT PUFFS Yields430g

Whole milk 160g 160% CD Disperse gelatin over cold milk.
300 Bloom gelatin lOg 10%
Unsalted butter 45g 45% 0 Add to milk.
Rendered bacon fat lOg 10% Bring to a boil.
Salt 2.5g 2.5%
All-purpose flour lOOg 100% 0 Add to boiling liquid all at once.
Stir over medium heat until dough forms into a ball and a
film develops on the inside of pot, about 2 min.
Transfer to stand mixer.
Eggs 150g 150% 0 Incorporate eggs, one at a time, followed by the puree.
Chestnut puree 30g 30% Cast into mold in layerl Y2 em / 5/s in thick.
(store-bought) Set for at least 3 h.
@ Cut into lY2 em I 'Is in cubes.
@ Refrigerate.
Frying oil as needed @ Reserve.
Pain d 'epices powder, as needed
from below

19
The steps shown below are from the recipe for chestnut puffs (previous page).
7 10
CHESTNUT CREAM Yields30 0 g
Whole milk 150 g 150% 0 Disperse iota carragee nan and gum over co ld milk.
Iota carrageenan 0.6g 0.6%
(0.2 %)*
Konjacgum 0.3g 0.3%
(TIC Gums brand) (0.7%)*
Chestnut puree 100 g 100% 0 Blend with milk so lut io n.
(store-bought) Vacuum sea l.
Heavy cream 25 g 25% @) Place in 80 c / 175 Fbath, and hold for 5 min to hydrate
Roasted-hazelnut oil 15g 15% iota ca rragee nan.
Sugar 15g 15% Pour into mold, an d refrigerate until set, abo ut 10 min.
Water lO g 10% Puree ge l until fluid.
Salt 2g 2% 0 Fillll siph o n with fluid gel, and refrige rate.
*(% oftotal weight ofall ingredients)
The chestnut puffs must be filled with chestnut cream just before serving. The best tool is After filling, dust with pain d'epices powder.
this injection attachment for a whipping siphon.
TE NDER CUT S 21
SPICED ASH Yie lds8 0 g
Pain d'epices powder, 45 g 100% CD Whisk together.
from below
Carbon color powder 8 .5 g 19%
(MSK brand)
Kaolin clay powder 7g 15.5%
(MeadowSweet Herbs
and Oils brand)
Roasted-hazelnut o il 12 g 27% 0 Whisk oil slowly into N-Zorbit M.
N-Zorbit M 10 g 22% 0 Incorporate tinted spice blend thorough ly.
(Nationa l Starch brand)
PAIN D'EPICES POWDER Yi elds3 00 g

Cinnamon stick 8g 3.3% CD Toast spices together in 170 "CI 340 "Foven.
Star anise 3.2 g 1.3% 0 Grind spices to fine powder, and reserve.
Cloves 2.5 g 1%
Aniseeds 2g 0 .8%
Coriander seeds 2g 0 .8%
Spray-dried honey 240g 100% 0 Grind togeth e r to fine powd e r.
powder (store-bought) @) Ble nd into toasted spice powder.
Salt 12g 5% Reserve for spiced ash and pork loin roast.
Ginger powder 3g 1.3%
Nutmeg, grated 3g 1.3%
Mace blade 1.5g 0.6%
Orange zest, grated 1.2g 0.5%

19
PORK LOIN ROAST Yields 900 g
Kosher salt 250g 17% <D Mix together thoroughly.
Pain d'epices powder, 100 g 7%
from above
Rack of pork loin 1.5 kg 100% 0 Rol l pork loin in spiced sa lt without letting salt touch ends.
(first eight ribs from Wrap in plastic wrap, and cure in refrigeratorfor48 h.
shoulder) with fat cap
@) Remove skin and fat, and refrigerate.
and skin
Gelatinized pork skin, 300 g 20% Measure and reserve individually.
dried and finely minced
see page 3126
Crisp Coat UC 60 g 4%
(National Starch brand)
Water 200g 13% Bring water to a simmer, and mix in methylcellulose with
Methocel E4M Sg 0.3% hand blender.
(Dow brand) 0 Hold at a simm er for 2 min while blending continuously.
Coo l, and vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for12 h to all ow methylcellulose to hydrate.
TENDER CUT S 23
19
RACK OF LAMB WITH GARLIC
Seaweed tapenade, garlic nougatine, caramelized creme fraiche
Only a certain kind of sheep is hearty enough to graze on the We also accompany the lamb with garlic, a traditional partner-
wind-whipped salt marshes of Normandy and Brittany. Its meat, for good reason. Smashing a clove of garlic triggers enzymatic
known to gourmets as agneau de pre-sale, has a tender, finely grained reactions within the clove that create sulfur-rich, pungent com-
texture due to the exercise required to survive the rugged terrain, as pounds. Cooking the garlic with meat mellows its flavor by forging
well as an extraordinary flavor that comes from extended aging and new, meaty aromas from the sulfurous molecules. The rosemary,
a diet of herbs and iodine. We serve our lamb with seaweed tapenade another classic addition, releases antioxidants that hinder oxidation
and briny oyster beignets to evoke a sense of place. of certain fats that can give even the finest lamb a mutton-like flavor.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment, pressure cooker, whipping siphon
TIME REQUIRED : 12 h overall, including 1 h preparation and SO min to cook and .finish
TIME TO
Lamb Garlic Jus in aJar 1Smin 1'/ 2 h 3min 120 g

see page 2348
Pickled Garlic 1Smin 12 h* 75 g
Seaweed Tapenade Smin 1 h* 160 g
Garlic Confit Smin SOg

see page 3354
Caramelized Creme Fraiche 2~h* 80g
Oyster Beignet 10min 2min four
Garlic Nougatine Smin 10min 60g
RackofLamb SO min* 400g
GARNISH
Wild garlic blossoms 12
Rosemary, brunoise Sg
*(unattended times)
Rack of lamb is a real treat. but it poses a dilemma. Some people like the layer of fat on the
outside-they see it as part of what makes rack of lamb wonderful-and also like the
tendon left in, as shown on the previous page. Others prefer to eat rack of lamb after it has
been trimmed and the internal tendon removed.
The procedure to prepare a rack of lamb this way is straightforward. First separate the
fat cap and lay it flat. then remove most of the fat. Cut out the tendon, taking care to save
the flap of meat between it and the skin. Fillet out any other parts you want to remove.
Next. dust the surfaces with Activa RM, and reassemble the rack by using loops of
butcher's twine between the bones to bind the meat together. Vacuum seal, and refriger-
ate overnight while the Activa sets.
TENDER CUT S 25
ASSEMBLY:
Cook lamb sous vide in 62 oc I 144 op bath to core temperature of Deep-fry oysters briefly until golden and crispy, and just
57 oc I 135 op, about 40 min, and then let rest for 10 min. warmed through.
Remove from skewers, pat dry, and season.
While lamb is resting:
Sear lamb, fat side down, until golden. Slice between ribs into
Heat frying oil for oysters to 200 oc I 392 F.
individual chops. Season.
Charge batter-filled siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges.
Arrange two chops on each plate. Garnish plate with spoonful
Shake vigorously.
of caramelized creme fraiche, quenelle of seaweed tapenade, finely
Warm garlic and rosemary jus. Season.
chopped rosemary, one crisp oyster beignet, and three cloves
Toss oysters in cornstarch and skewer them. Dispense batter into
of pickled garlic.
container, and dip oysters in batter to coat fully.
Finish each plate with warm jus and a piece of garlic nougatine.
PICKLED GARLIC Yields 75 g

Blanching whole ga rlic cloves at Garlic cloves lOOg 100% 0 Blanch for 3 min.
a high temperature destroys the
enzymes responsible for many of
0 Drain.
the potent-smelling su lfur com- Arrange in single layer in rigid container.
pounds that are released when the White wine vinegar 200g 200% @ Combine, and bring to a boil.
cloves are cut or smashed. In this Water 75g 75% Pour over garli c cloves.
dish, the garlic is blanched long
Sugar 25g 25% @ Cool.
enough to produce cloves that are
sweet, tart, and aromatic rather Thyme 5g 5% 0 Refrigerate for at least 12 h before serving.
than overly pungent. Salt 4g 4%

19
SEAWEED TAPENADE Yields 525 g

Green olives, 200g 100% @ Drain items soaked in water.
finely minced 0 Reserve sepa rate ly.
Dulse seaweed, soaked lOO g 50%
in waterforl h, finely
minced
Shallots, finely minced 75g 37.5%
Arame seaweed, soaked SOg 25%
minced
Hijiki seaweed, soaked SOg 25%
minced
Capers, finely minced 25g 12.5%
Anchovy paste lOg 5% Whisk together until smooth.
Dijon mustard lOg 5% 0 Fold in seaweed, olives, shallots, and cape rs.
Lemon juice 7g 3.5%
Garlic, finely minced Sg 2.5%
Xanthan gum 0.2g 0.1 %
Salt Season mi xture.
Refrigerate.
TENDER CUTS 27
CARAMELIZED CREME FRAICHE Yie lds3 00 g
Creme fraiche 250 g 100% CD Combin e .
Baking soda 2.5g 1% 0 Pressure-cook in Mason jars at a gauge pressure of
Ra ising th e p H leve l (by adding 1.4 bar I 21 psi for 2 Y, h.
ba king soda) and p ressure-cook ing
@ Cool.
te mpe rature g reatly acce lerates th e
Maill ard reactio n that produ ces a Garlic confit, sieved 50g 20% @) Blend into creme fraiche.
see page 3354
brown co lor and d istin ct fl avo r.
Pregelatinized starch 3.75g 1.5%
paste (or Ultra-Sperse 3)
see page 4 47
Salt to taste Season.
Refrigerate.
OYSTER BEIGNET Yi e lds fo ur be ignets

Tapioca starch 85g 35% CD Mix together.
All-purpose flour 60g 25%
Baking soda 2g 0.85%
Xanthangum 0.4g 0.17%
Hard cider 240g 100% 0 Whisk into dry mixture to form batter.
Transfer batter to siphon.
@) Refrigerate.
Kumamoto oysters four oysters Refrigerate oysters.
Cornstarch as needed Reserve cornstarch and salt individually.
Salt to taste
Dulse Sea lettuce (ulva lactuca) Kelp
Mozoku Hijiki Ogo
28 VO lU ME 5 Pl ATED DI SH RECIP ES
1
GARLIC NOUGATINE Yields400 g

Glucose syrup DE 40 100 g 100% CD Mix together.
lsomalt powder 100 g 100% 0 Spread onto silicone baking mat in one layer, 1 mm I
Unsalted butter, softened 100g 100% X in th ick.
All-purpose flour 50g 50% Cover with second si li cone baking mat.
Garlic, brunoise 50g 50% @) Bake in 200 "C I 390 "F oven until golden and soft,
and blanched once about5 min.
in boiling water Pass rolling pin severa l times overtop baking mat,
Marcona almonds, 50g 50% while nougatine is still hot, to make as thin as possible.
brunoise Warm in oven.
Salt 4.5g 4.5% 0 Cut into desired dimensions while still hot.
Store in airtight co ntain er, ideally with silica
gel packet.
RACK OF LAMB Yields400 g

Rack of lamb, eight ribs, 600 g 100% CD Wrap rosemary sprigs around bone to prevent them
frenched to loin from being pressed into meat.
For more on other recommended cooking
Rosemary sprigs 10 g 1.75% temperatures for lamb, see page 3-96.
Extra-virgin olive oil lOO g 16.5% 0 Vacuum sea l rack with oil. Refrigerate.
Salt to taste Reserve.
TENDER CUTS 29
.
..
' . . ,.. . .. .. .. ~
:
~ :~ ~
. : ~ .i.
-
1
BLANQUETTE DEVEAU
Veal sweetbreads, constructed cream, kaolin clay, licorice
Like many classic French dishes, this one has been simplified over cream instead. Rendered veal marrow fat is drizzled into white veal
the years. But the signature characteristic of blanquette de veau- stock while homogenizing to form a nondairy veal cream. The fine
braised veal with button mushrooms and carrots in a cream sauce, fat droplets created by the homogenization scatter reflected light so
served over rice pilaf-is that it is white. So, in that spirit, this well that the sauce is intensely white. The resulting "cream" is
blanquette de veau is whiter than white. Even the carrots are white. flavorful, rich, and comforting, and, because it is entirely veal, makes
Cream sauce is often yellowed by butter, so we use a constructed for a kosher blanquette.
Y I ELD: Jour portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment, rotor-stator homogenizer or ultrahigh-pressure homogenizer
TIME REQUIRED: 13 h overall, including 1 h 10 min preparation and 25 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
White Veal Stock 30min 20 min and 20 h* 550g

see page 2296
Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads 12 h* and 1 h* 18min 500g
Rice Crisp 1 hand 3 h* and 45 s 120 g
Milk Foam 10min 1 h*a nd5min 500g
Glazed White Carrot 5min 45 min* 15min 300g
Sous Vide Turnip 5min 20min* 15min 200g
Constructed Veal Cream 20min 15min 200g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Deep-fry rice crisps in 190 c I 375 p oil until very crispy and dry, and sweetbreads are well-coated, about 1 min. Cut sweetbreads into
about 45 s. Drain on paper towels; season with salt. portions 2.5 em I 1 in thick.
Reheat veal sweetbreads, veal cream, carrots, and turnips in Warm infused milk to room temperature, and foam with handheld
I 149 p bath for about 15 min.
65 c wand mixer.
Arrange sweetbread slices on plates. Garnish with milk foam,
While vegetables are heating:
carrots, and turnips.
Bring clay glaze for sweetbreads to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer.
Finish with rice crisps, and serve veal cream separately.
Add sweetbreads to hot glaze, and baste until glaze has reduced
TENDER CUTS 31
SOUS VIDE VEAL SWEETBREADS Yields500g
Veal sweetbreads 500g 100% CD Cover sweetbreads with milk. Refrigerate for 4 h.
Water as needed 0 Drain, then repeat process tw ice for total soaking time
of12 h.
The term "sweetbreads" refers to 0 Discard liquid.
either the thymus gland or the
@) Peel membrane off sweetbreads, and trim away fat
pancreas of a young animal, usually
and veins.
a calf or lamb. The thymus is the
Vacuum seal.
more elongated gland found near
the throat, while the pancreas is Cook so us vide in 67 c / 153 F bath for1 h.
rounder and found near the heart. 0 Cool and refrigerate.
The latter is more sought after White veal stock 300g 60% Combine, and reduce to 50 g.
because of its comparatively see page 2296
Bring reduction to a boil, and remove from heat.
cleaner, more delicate flavor. Fino sherry 150g 30%
Dry licorice root 2.5g 0.5% @ Add to hot reduction, and infuse for 7 min.
Fennel seeds 0.5g 0.1 % @ Strain.
Star anise 0.5g 0.1%
For more on alternative meats. see pages
Kaolin clay 2g 0.4% @ Whisk into infused reduction to create glaze.
3-96 and 3-108. Blanquette de veau is
normally made with a tough cut such as Salt to taste @ Season clay glaze.
veal breast. which would certainly work in @ Vacuum seal.
this recipe-albeit with a different cooking @ Refrigerate.
time and temperature.
RICE CRISP Yields350 g

Water 1 kg 500% CD Combine rice with 800 g of water. Reserve remaining

Sushi rice 200g lOO% 200 g of water.
0 Cook until cons iste ncy of porridge, about 1 h.
Glutinous rice flour 120g 60% 0 Make slurry with 200 gofwater, and simm erfor2 min.
@) Combine with cooked sushi rice, and puree until
mostly smooth, but with small fragments throughout.
Pour onto silicone mat in layer1.5 mm / X6 in thick.
Dehydrate in 50 c / 122 Foven until fully desiccated,
about3 h.
0 Break into large fragments.
Store in airtight containe r in coo l, dry place.
Fine salt as needed Reserve individu ally.
Frying oil as needed
GLAZED WHITE CARROT Yields300 g

Cultivated white carrots date to the
1300s, first appearing in Germany, Small white carrots, 300g 100% CD Vacuum sea l together.
France, and the Netherlands. The peeled 0 Cook so us vide in 85 c / 185 F bath for45 min.
orange carrot is thought to be a Water 50g 17%
more modern development,
0 Pour cooking juices into pot, leaving ca rrots in bag.
though its provenance is in dispute. @) Reduce cook ing juices until syrupy, about 8 min.
Fructose 6g 2%
Historians say the purple carrot, Return jui ces to bag with carrots, and coo l.
cultivated in Afghanistan before the Salt 3g 1% Vacuum seal.
lOth century, predates both.
0 Refrigerate.
32 VOLUME 5 PL ATED - DI SH RE CIPE S

19
MILK FOAM Yields500 g

Skim milk 500g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
Leeks, whites only, 75g 15% 0 Cook so us vide in 85 c 1 185 F bath for1 h.
thinly sliced Strain.
Button mushrooms, 50g 10% 0 Reserve hot.
gill s and sk in removed,
thinly sliced
Turnip, peeled and 35g 7%
thinly sliced
Sweet onions, thinly 25g 5%
sliced
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 7 g 1.5%
Thyme 0.75g 0.15%
Sucrose esters 3.5 g 0.7% Blend together.
(Sucro, Texturas brand) Shear into strained hot milk mixture.
Methocel F50 1.75 g 0.35% 0 Cool, and vacuum seal.
(Dow brand)
Refrigerate milk foam for12 h to hydrate.
SOUS VIDE TURNIP Yields200g

Turnips 200g 100% CD Cut turnips into slices, 3 mm I Yo in thick.
0 Cut discs from each slice with 2.5 em 1 1 in pastry
cutter.
Unsalted butter 25g 12.5% Vacuum seal discs in single even layer with butter,
Water 25g 12.5% water, and salt.
Salt 2g 1% 0 Cook so us vid e in 85 c l 185 F bath for20 min.
Refrigerate in bag.
CONSTRUCTED VEAL CREAM Yields360g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE For more on using a rotor-stator homogenizer,

see the step-by-step procedure on page 4236.
Tapioca starch 11.2g 4.5% (!) Combine.
Salt 6g 2.4%
Whey protein isolate 6g 2.4%
Iota carrageenan 1g 0.4%
Acetic acid 0.5g 0 .2%
Polysorbate 80 0.4g 0.16%
White veal stock, cold 250g 100% 0 Add to stock, and homogenize thorough ly.
see page 2296
Warm mixture to 85 c I 185 F, and reserve at same
temperature.
Rendered veal marrow BOg 32% 0 Warm fat to 85 c l 185 F.
Drizzle into hot stock mixture while blending until
fully emu lsified.
Coo l.
0 Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate.
TENDE R CUT S 33
19
CHOUCROUTE ROYALE
Alder smoke, gin flavors, Munster, black trumpet mushroom
Choucroute garnie is a hearty winter feast of sauerkraut slowly Protected from air, Leuconostoc mesenteroides bacteria flourishes.
cooked with onions, Alsatian Riesling, and goose or duck fat. It is The microorganisms metabolize the natural sugars in the cabbage
topped with pork belly, ham hock, bacon, and sausages, then ringed to create flavorful and preservative molecules, such as lactic acid. As
with boiled potatoes. And if you start with homemade sauerkraut, it acid levels increase, other beneficial bacteria begin to thrive. As
is especially delicious. The Greeks and Romans, and probably the they take over, they lower the pH further and finish developing the
Chinese before them, pickled cabbage. Medieval French and Ger- aroma and sour flavor of true sauerkraut.
mans fermented it instead, dramatically altering its flavor. How? The Making sauerkraut at home is easy. Prepare the cabbage, set it
magic of bacteria. To ferment cabbage, you shred it, then salt it to outside in cool weather, and ignore it for two to three weeks. The
extract enough liquid to submerge the cabbage in its own juices. transformation will be dramatic-in a wonderful way.

SPE C IA L EQ U IPMENT: sous vide equipment, cold smoker
OPTIO NA L EQ U I PM EN T: pressure cooker_, vacuum reduction equipment
TI M E REQ U IRED : 72 h overall (3 wk if making your own salt-cured cabbage and rutabagaJ including 13 h
preparation and 1~ h to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Cabbage Sauerkraut 1Smin 2wk* 160 g

Rutabaga Sauerkraut 1Smin 2 wk* 100 g

optional, see page 3351 or store-bought
Alsatian Munster Sausage 12h 12 h* 30m in* 300g
Brown Pork Stock 1Smin 2 h* SSOg

see page 2296
White Vegetable Stock 10min 3 h* 150 g

see page 2296
Smoked Pork Cheek 24 h* and 48 h* 20min* 240g

see page 38
Quatre Epices 1Smin 2g

see page 2403
Aromatic Alsatian Mustard 12 h* and 7 d* 160 g

optional
Juniper Brine lOmin S min and 12 h* 600g
Pork Tenderloin with Juniper 2Smin 12 h* 1 h* SOOg
Pork Trotter Beignet 30min 3 h* and 4 h* 3min 300g
Braised Sauerkraut 1Smin 1'/2 h Smin soo g

Sweet Potato Fondant 10min 45 min* lOmin* 200g
*(unattended times)
TENDER CUT S 35
ASSEMBLY:
Cook pork tenderloin sous vide in 60 oc I 140 oF bath to core Heat frying oil for beignet cubes to 190 oc I 375 F.
temperature of 59 oc I 138 oF, about SO min. Deep-fry cubes for 1 min. Drain on paper towels.
Cook sausage sous vide in 60 oc I 140 oF bath to core temperature
To .finish:
of 59 oc I 138 oF, about 30 min, and then hold at temperature for
Slice sausages. Spoon sauerkraut into bottom of each bowl.
12 min to ensure full pasteurization.
Dress with slices of sausage, pork cheek, pork tenderloin, and sweet
While pork tenderloin and sausages are cooking: potato fondant.
Reheat pork cheek in 60 oc I 140 F bath for 20 min. Serve beignets and Alsatian mustard on side.
Reheat sweet potato in 80 oc I 176 oF bath for 10 min.
Reheat sauerkraut on stove top over medium heat, about S min.
Adjust seasoning.
For more on brines, see page 3-168. JUNIPER BRINE Yields 600 g

Water 500g 100% CD Combine.
juniper berries are traditionally juniper berries, crushed 60g 12% 0 Bring to a boil, to dissolve salt fully.
used to flavor pork brines, butthey Salt 35g 7% Coo l, and infuse refrigerated for12 h.
are more famous as the flavoring
used with gin.
Coriander seeds 12g 2.4% 0 Strain.
Lemon zest, grated 4g 0 .8%
Angelica root, sliced 3.2g 0.64%
Bitter orange zest, grated 2.5g 0 .5%
Malt, roasted 2g 0.4%
Hops 0.8g 0.16%
Cinnamon stick 0.4g 0.08%
Ginger, minced 0.4g 0 .08%
Allspice berry 0.25 g 0.05%
PORK TENDERLOIN WITH JUNIPER Yields500g

It is important to trim the tender- Pork tenderloin, tendon 500g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
loin to remove the tendon and and silverskin removed 0 Refrigerate for 12 h.
silverskin membrane. The leeks jun iper brine, from above 200 g 40% Drain, and refrigerate for 24 h.
then bond better, and the res ulting
medallions are much easierto eat.
Water, cold 100g 20% 0 Disperse gelatin in co ld water, and warm until fully
160 Bloom gelatin lOg 2% dissolved .
(7%)* Reserve.
Leeks 300g 60% Peel away first layer, and discard.
0 Peel away next four layers, and cut into large sheets.
Many plant foods can be infused Vacuum sea l leek sheets with ge latin mixture.
with a gelatin solution, which
Steam for4 min, then sho ck in ice water, and pat dry.
provides ample protein to enable
Activa to glue them to other ActivaRM 5g 1% @ Arrange sheets on plastic wrap to make single large
protein-rich foods. Here we infuse sheet, overlapping sheets every 1 em I% in.
the leeks so that we can bond them @ Dust sheets evenly with Activa RM.
to the pork tenderloin and make a @ Roll brined pork in leek sheets, twisting ends
skin. of plastic wrap tightly to form roll.
@ Vacuum sea l.
@ Refrigerate for 12 h to ensure leek wrapper adheres
to pork.
*(%oftotal weight oftenderloin, gin brine, water, and leeks)
36 VOLUME 5 PLATEDDI SH RECIPES

19
AROMATIC ALSATIAN MUSTARD OPT I ONAL Yields245g
The mustard wi ll keep indefinitely,
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE and its flavor wi ll improve with age.
Yellow mustard seeds 75g 100% Q) Blanch three times in sca lding water, discarding water
each time to remove bitterness.
Cider vinegar 190g 253% 0 Combine seeds with vinegar.
Refrigerate for12 h.
Fennel, brunoise 2.2 g 2.9% 0 Combine with soaked mustard seeds in food
Tarragon, finely minced l.5g 2% processor.
Coriander seeds, ground 1.2g 1.6% Puree for 1 min to coarse texture.
Salt 1g 1.33% Vacuum seal mustard.

Black cardamom seeds, 0.8g 1.1% 0 Refrigerate for at least 7 d.
ground
Ground cinnamon 0.7 g 0.9%
Ground cloves 0.7g 0.9%
Black pepper, ground 0.5g 0.7%
Bay leaf, finely minced 0.2g 0 .3%
TENDER CUTS 37
SMOKED PORK CHEEK Yields240 g

Pork cheek, sinew 300g 100% 0 Cold-smoke at 7 ' C I 45 ' Ffor 24 h and 50% relative
Alternatively, smoke cheeks in a removed (four cheeks) humidity, which produces a wet-bu lb temperature of
conve ntion al smoker for 2 h. The Alder wood chips as needed 3 'CI 37 ' F.
taste will be different but still good.
Cherry wood chips as needed
For more on cold-smoking, including a Brown pork stock 150g 50 % 0 Vacuum sea l pork cheek with stock.
step-by-step procedure, see page 3-210. see page 2296
0 Cook so us vide in 68 ' C I 154 ' F bath for 48 h.
0 Coo l, in bag, in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
PORK TROTTER BEIGNET Yields400 g

Brown pork stock 600g 120% 0 Reduce to 100 g, until glaze is achieved.
see page 2296
0 Cool and reserve.
Water 1 kg 200% 0 Pressure-cook togeth er at a gauge pressure of1 bar I
Pork trotter 500g 100% 15 psi for 2Y2 h.
Removing bones from the pork Pork snout 250g 50 % 0 Remove bones from trotter and snout, and separate
trotter is easy, once it has been skin and co llagen from meat.
pressure-cooked. Dice skin and meat finely, keeping them separate.
Comb in e 120 g of meat and 30 g of sk in, and reserve.
Shallots, minced 200g 40% ([) Cook togeth er until shallots and mushrooms are
Neutral oil 50g 10% very tender, about 20 min .
Black trumpet 40g 8% Remove from heat.
mushrooms, minced
Cured ham, brunoise 40g 8% Fold into sha llot mixture with cooked pork.
Grain mustard lOg 2% @ Whisk in pork glaze, from above.
Fine salt 2.2g 0.44% @ Cast onto si li cone mat in layer 1.5 em I :Y.. in thick.
Black pepper, coarsely 0.2g 0.04% @ Refrigerate until set, at least 3 h.
ground @ Cut into cubes.
Nutmeg, grated 0.1g 0.02%
Eggs, whisked 200g 40% @ Dredge each beignet cube in Methocel K100M until
Dried brioche crumbs 100g 20% evenly coated.
Methocel K100M 30g 6% @ Roll cubes in egg, and coat with brioche crumbs.
(Dow brand) @ Refrigerate for at least 1 h before frying to firm crusts.

19
BRAISED SAUERKRAUT Yields480 g Choucroute shou ld be white.
Many cooks use a pan that's too
hot, scorching the sauerkraut and
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 90 g 60% CD Saute together, without allow ing on ion s to co lor, on ions, or they add meat drippings.
Goose fat 75g 50% until ve ry tender, about 25 min. In stead, moisten the cabbage w ith
co lorless bouillon or ch icken broth .
Garlic, finely minced 30g 20%
Prevent browning by add ing an
Cabbage sauerkraut 150g 100% 0 Add to onion mixture. ac id, such as Riesling vin egar,
see page 3351
Cook until cabbage is very tender and liquid is while cooking.
Vegetable stock 150g 100% reduced by half, about 30 min.
see page 2296
Riesling (dry) 105g 70%
Rutabaga sauerkraut lOOg 66.7%
see page 3351
Muscat (dry) 50g 33.3%
Bay leaf 0.5g 0.33% 0 Combine in sachet.
Black peppercorns 0.2g 0.13% Add sachet to on ion- cabbage mixture, and continue
Juniper be rries 0.15g 0 .1% to cook until most of liquid has evaporated, about
Cloves O.lg 0 .07% 25min.
Coriander seeds O.lg 0.07% Remove sachet.
Salt to taste 0 Season mixture. Sauerkraut ca n keep for months

Cool and refrigerate. and has p lenty of vitam in C, which
historically made it popular o n
navy ships forwarding off scurvy.
Researchers today are investigating
SWEET POTATO FONDANT Yields200 g whether it can reduce the risk of
cancer, too.
White sweet potatoes 175g 100% CD Cut into tubes 6 em I 2'/2 in ta ll with ring cutter, 4 em I
(satsuma-imo), peeled W2 in. in diameter.
Water 125g 71.4% 0 Vacuum seal together with potatoes.
Unsalted butter, me lte d 27.5g 15.7% Cook so us vid e in 95 c 1 203 F bath for45 min .
Salt 4.5g 2.6% 0 Coo l, in bag, in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
ALSATIAN MUNSTER SAUSAGE Yields 1.9 kg

Pork shoulder, cold l ,OOOg 100% CD Cut each into 1 in cubes, then grind separately through Although it might be tempting to
Pork fat, semi frozen 750 g 75% 5 mm I Y.. in plate, and reserve separate ly. grin d the pork meat and fat
(-10 c 1 14 F) together, do not do this because,
Salt lOg 1% 0 Co mbin e with ground pork sho uld er, and process for an emu lsion -style sausage like
this one, doing so will res ult in
lnsta Cure No.1 lOg 1% using bowl choppe r or food processor for about 6 min
to puree; do not let temperature exceed 5 c I 41 F. overchopp ing the fat and a greasy,
Whole milk, frozen lOOg 10% in cohes ive sausage w hen cooked .
Ground pork fat, from 750 g 75% Add to puree, and co ntinu e processing until smooth, For more details on this problem
a bove about 3 min more. Allow temperature to rise to, but and sausage making in genera l see
Alsatian Munster cheese, 80g 8% not exceed, 10 c I 50 F. page 3238.
rind removed, grated
Sugar 7g 0.7%
Quatre epices, sifted 2g 0.2%
see page 2403
Black pepper, finely l.5g 0.15%
ground and sifted
Whole milk 150g 15%
Natural casings, as needed 0 Prepare, stuff, a nd link casings 10 em I 4 in long an d
2.5 em I 1 in. in diameter 3.75cm i 1Y2 in thick.
Hang sausages overnight in refrigerator.
Cut into individual links .
0 Vacuum seal without crushi ng, and refrigerate .
TEN DER CU T S 39
s
RECiPE
40 LATE D -D IS H
E 5 P
VOLUM
PLATED -DISH REC IPES
2
BRAISED SHORT RIBS 42
POT-AU-FEU 49
HUNGARIAN BEEF GOULASH 55
OSSO BUCO MILANESE 60
AMERICAN BBQ 66
CASSOULET TOULOUSAIN (AUTUMN) 81
CASSOULET TOULOUSAIN (SPR ING ) 85
HISTORIC LAMB CURRIES 89
SUNDAY PORK BELLY 101
~ . ,.
~1 ~ .. :t..
~
'i
.
,.. l
TOUGH CUTS 41
BRAISED SHORT RIBS Yields 1.2 kg

This presentation starts with Short ribs, four-bone 3 kg 100% Q) Remove fat cap and si lver skin covering ribs.
bone-in ribs, but virtually any plate with ribs
means of cutting short ribs will
0 Vacuum sea l ribs with beef stock.
10-12.5 em I 4-5 in long
work this way. Boneless short ribs Cook so us vide in 60 oc I 140 F bath for 72 h.
White beef stock 225 g 7.5%
benefit from jaccarding. Although see page 2296 @ Chi ll vacuum-sealed ribs quickly in an ice-water bath.
we prefer putting a bit of beef stock Remove ribs from bag; strain juices, and reserve.
in the so us vide bag, the ribs can
Peel meat from bones, and set on plates.
also be put in dry; considerable
juice will emerge during the long 0 Trim gristle from meat, and cut meat into even
cooking time . block-shaped portions (about 10).
Vacuum seal, a nd refrigerate.
SWEET, SOUR, AND SAVORY GLAZE Yields400 g
White beef stock 3 kg 100% Q) Combine.

see page 2296
0 Reduce until thick enough to coat back of spoon.
Short-rib cooking juices, 500g 17%
from above
Cilantro leaves 20g 0.7% Add to hot, reduced mixture.
Star anise, crushed 5g 0 .2% @ Infuse for about 5 min, o r to taste.
Thai basil leaves 5g 0.2% Strain.
Tamarind paste, sieved 25g 0.8% Add three-fourths of each paste and sugar quantity to
see page 99 red uced mi xture.
Palm sugar 8g 0.3% 0 Adjust to taste with rema ind e r of paste and sugar.
Salt as needed Season with salt.
CRISPY BEEF STRANDS Yields80 g
Beef flank steak 200g 100% Q) Cut with gra in into even, rectangular strips, 5 mm I
Y.. in thick, and reserve.
Soy sauce 50g 25% 0 Combine, and place meat strips in marinade.
Fish sauce 34g 17% Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate for 48 h.
Sugar 5.5g 2.8% @ Drain.
For more on this step-by-step procedure, see Salt 2g 1.06% Microwave strips at full power (800 W) until dry,
page3-184. 3-5 min.
Pull strips apart, strand by strand.
Canolaoil as needed 0 Fry strands in 180 oc I 355 oF oil until dry.
Drain .
Reserve in airtight co ntaine r with sili ca packets.
Beef strands (top) transform in the frying

oil (middle) to a glassy crispness (bottom).
44 VO LU M E 5 PLATE D- DIS H RE CI PES

DEHYDRATED GARLIC CHIP Yields several dozen slices
OPT IONAL

Skim milk 350 g 350% CD Co mbin e sli ces w ith of milk.
Ele phant garlic cloves, 100 g 100% 0 Heat mi xture to 70 "C I 160 "F.
sliced 1 mm I '/n in thick Remove immediately from heat, and cool.
@) Drain, discarding milk.
Rinse blanched ga rli c und er running co ld water.
Salt as needed Lay garli c sli ces in single layer o n tray.
0 Seaso n.
Dehydrate at 50 "C I 122 "F until dry, abo ut 2 h.
Rese rve in a irtig ht co ntain e r with si li ca packets.

20
CRISPY BEEF AND SHALLOT SALAD YieldslOOg

INGREDIENT QUA NTITY SCA LING PROCEDURE
Re d shallots, sliced SOg 100% CD Heat o il in deep frye r to 170 c I 340 F.
1 mm I )S, in thick 0 Dee p-fry sha ll ot sli ces until d ry and go lden.
Ca nola oil as needed Dra in o n pa pe r towels.
Salt as needed 0 Seaso n sli ces.
Rese rve in airtight co ntain e r with sili ca pac kets.
Swe et, sour, a nd savo ry lOO g 200% Wa rm togeth e r, sti rring to disso lve suga r.
glaze, from a bove 0 Coo l.
Palm sugar 18g 36% Refrigerate.
Crispy beef stra nds, 80 g 160% Meas ure a nd rese rve indi vid ually.
from a bove
Cila ntro ste ms, 1 em I 3g 6%
% in le ngths
Sca llion, fin e julie nne 2g 4%
Sma ll cila ntro leaves 2g 4%
Sma ll mint leaves 2g 4%
Sma ll Tha i basil leaves 2g 4%
Lim e zest, fin e julie nne l .Sg 3%
Bird's eye chili, seede d lg 2%
and sliced paper-thin
lime juice to taste
Sa lt to taste
TOUG H CUT S 47
20
POT-AU-FEU
Beef shank rillette, pickled veal tongue, rare flatiron steak, crispy ravigote
Pot-au-feu is so emblematic of French cuisine that the Larousse to the temples of haute cuisine. Alain Chapel substituted pigeon and
encyclopedia of 1867 states that " it is through it that we distinguish fines herbes ravioli for the traditional beef shank and sauce gribiche.
our national cuisine from all others." From its humble medieval Michel Guerard served the dish with chicken, veal tongue, and
origins as a communal pot of boiled meats, root vegetables, and beurre blanc. Eric Ripert breathed new life into it with king salmon,
broth, it became, during the late 17th century, the epitome of morels, and wild mushroom consomme. Our recipe is elaborate as
bourgeois cooking. Each successive generation of chefs has reinter- well, yet we try to honor the modest origins of the dish even as we
preted pot-au-feu, in culinary settings ranging from the corner bistro embrace the convenience of modern sous vide cooking.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, pressure cooker
TIME REQUIRED: 4 d overall, including 1# h preparation and 30 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Glazed Oxtail 100 h* 20min* 300g
Brown BeefJus 20min 4 h* 300g

see page 2344
White Beef Stock Smin 2 h* 925 g

see page 2296
Sous Vide Veal Tongue 10min 24 h* 20min* 120g
Rare Flatiron Steak 10min 12 h* 20 min* and 2 min 160 g
Beignet of Sauce Ravigote 10min 20 min and 5 h* 2 min four cubes
Beef Shank Rillette Smin 5 h* and 10 min 20 min* 120 g
Pot-au-Feu Consomme 20min 20 h* 20 min* 160 g
Sous Vide Root Vegetables 20min 40 min* 20 min* 140 g
Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot Tops Smin 4min 20g
Clove Oil 1 min 20g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Heat oil for beignets to 195 ' C I 380 ' F. Sear flatiron cubes until just golden, about 30 s. Slice 1 em I 3/s in
Reheat meats in 50 ' C I 122 ' F bath for 20 min, and reheat vegeta- thick, and season with salt.
bles and consomme in 70 ' C I 158 ' F bath for 20 min. Arrange two tongue slices, three pieces of glazed oxtail, two flatiron
slices, and one spoonful of warm beef rillette on each plate.
While meat, vegetables, and consomme are reheating:
Garnish with warmed vegetables and fried parsley and carrot tops.
Deep-fry beignets until golden, about 1V2 min.
Drizzle with clove oil.
Drain on paper towel-lined tray.
Serve consomme at table, with beignets on side.
TOUGH CUTS 49
GLAZED OXTAIL Yields325g

Oxtail, cut between joints 300 g 100% <D Vacuum seal.
Brown beef jus 75g 25% 0 Cook so us vide in 60 "C I 140 "Fbath for 100 h.
see page 2344
Remove oxta il and juices from bag.
0 Dislodge pieces of meat from bones and gristle,
and refrigerate meat.
Strain cook ing juices.
Reduce juice to thick glaze. Glaze will thin when
combined with oxtail pieces .
0 Cool glaze.
Vacuum seal oxtail pieces and glaze together.
Refrigerate.
SOUS VIDE VEAL TONGUE Yields250g

Veal tongues 550g 100% <D Blanch for 2 min.
0 Drain and cool.
Water lOOg 18% Combine with tongues.
Cider vinegar 45g 8% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Carrot, peeled and thinly 20g 4% Cook so us vide in 70 "C I 158 "F bath for 24 h.
sliced Remove tongues and cooking liquid from bag.
Garlic, thinly sliced lOg 2% 0 Peel tongues, chill in cooking liquid, and slice thinly
Sweet onion, thinly sliced lOg 2% lengthwise.
Salt 7g 1.3% Reduce cooking liquid until syrupy, about 10 min.
Stra in and coo l.
@ Vacuum seal two tongue slices with one-fourth of
reduced liquid into each of four bags.
@ Refrigerate.
RARE FLATIRON STEAK Yields500g
Flatiron steak is often so ld with

Flatiron steak 500g 100% <D Butterfly steak to remove tendon.
t he tendon removed. In t hat case, Act iva RM or GS as needed 0 Dust each piece evenly with thin layer of Act iva.
you can either use the steak as is Salt to taste Fold steak closed.
(sk ipping ste ps 2 and 3) o r press two
0 Vacuum sea l together.
pieces together to make a steak as
Refrigerate for at least 6 h to ensure bonding.
t hick as the original.
Cook so us vid e in 55 "C I 131 "F bath for 12 h.
For more on restructuring meat with Activa,

0 Cool and refrigerate.
see the step-by-step guide on page 3-250.
The cooking time at 55 ' C 1 131 ' F can be extended

from the 12 h suggested above to 24 h-or even 48 h.
The longer t he meat cooks, the more tender it will be.

20
BEIGNET OF SAUCE RAVIGOTE YieldsJOOg

INSPIRED BY WYLIE DUFRESNE (20 beignets)

Whole milk, cold 50g 100% CD Disperse gelatin and gellan in milk. For more on dispersing gels, see the
step-by-step procedure on page 442.
160 Bloom gelatin 5.5g 11% 0 Boil for J min to fully hydrate.
(2%)* Refrigerate until set (about 5 min).
Low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 1.2g 2.4% @) Puree until fluid. For more on preparing fluid gels, see the
F, CP Kelco brand) (0.5%)* step-by-step procedure on page 4177.
Walnut oil 40g 80% Blend into milk fluid gel.
Lemon juice J5g 70%
Egg yolk, cooked JJg 66%
so us vide in 65 c I 150 "F
bath for J5 min
Grapeseed oil JOg 60%
Dijon mustard 28g 56%
Vermouth vinegar 25g 50%
Sea beans, minced JOg 60% Prepare ingredients as noted.
Shallots, fine brunoise 25 g 50% 0 Fold all into fluid ge l.
Chervil, finely minced 7g 14% Taste, and adjust seasoning.
Chives, finely minced 5g 10% Cast into mold in one layer, 2.5 em / 1 in thick.
Parsley, finely minced 5g 10% @ Refrigerate for at least 5 h until set.
Salt 4.5g 9% @ Cut into cubes.
Black pepper, medium 0.5g 1%
ground
All-purpose flour 100g 200% @ Roll cubes in flour, then in egg, and finally in panko,
Egg, blended 50g 100% no more than J h before frying.
Panko 50g 100%
*(%oftotal weight ofthefirst nine ingredients except the gelatin and gel/an)
TOUGH CUTS 51
BEEF SHANK RILLETTE Yields365 g
Beef shank, boneless 200g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 85 oc / 185 F bath for 5 h.
0 Cool quickly in ice-water bath. Shred meat.
White beef stock, cold 125g 62.5% Disperse agar and ge latin in stock.
see page 2296
0 Boil for 3 min to fully hyd rate.
Agar 1.15 g 0.58%
Refrigerate until firmly set.
(0.7%)*
Puree until flu id.
160 Bloom gelatin l.Sg 0.75%
(7.2%)*
For more on strategies for rendering fat. see Rendered beef suet 40g 20% 0 Heat fat until liquid is wa rm, but not hot.
page 3-145. Blend into stock fluid gel until fully emulsified.
Fold in shredded meat.
Black pepper to taste @ Season meat mixture generously, and vacuum seal.
Salt to taste @ Refrigerate.
*(%oftotal weightofbeefstock and beefsuet)
POT-AU-FEU CONSOMME Yields200g
Oxtail 300g 40% 0 Cut through center of bone and joints to release
marrow.
Ground beef shank 750g 100% 0 Coat oxtail and ground beef shank with oil.
Neutral oil 75g 10% Roast in 190 C/ 375 F oven, stirring often to ensure
even browning, until go ld en brown, about 15 min.
Sweet onions, cut in half 280g 37.3% 0 Prepare vegetables as noted.
Turnips, peeled and 200g 26.6% Sear onions on cut sid e until dark brown .
thinly sliced Sweat vegetables and ga rli c in suet until tender.
Leeks, thinly sliced 170g 22.6%
Celery root, peeled 100 g 13.3%
and thinly sliced
Garlic head, halved 70g 9.3%
Rendered beef suet SOg 6.6%
White beef stock 800g 106.6% 0 Combine with roasted meats and vegetables.
see page 2296
Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi
For more on juicing strategies, see page 2332. Carrot juice 350g 46.6% for2 h.
(from abo ut
Strain, discarding so lids.
550 g carrots)
@ Clarify liquid with prefe rred m ethod.
For more on clarification and filtration Parsnip juice 180g 24%
strategies, see page 2352. (from about @ Reduce to 200 g, and remove from heat.
650 g parsnips)
For more on using extracts instead of whole Black peppercorns l.l g 0.15% @ Add to consom me.
spices, see page 2288. Cloves, whole 1g 0.13% @ Infuse at room temperature to desired flavor,
Allspice berries 0.55g 0.07% abo ut 5-7 min.
Salt to taste @ Season.

Sherry vinegar to taste @ Measure 160 g.
@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate.
CLOVE OIL Yields100 g
Grapeseed oil 100 g 100% 0 Mix together and reserve.

Clove essential oil O.Sg 0.5%

2
SOUS VIDE ROOT VEGETABLES Yields170 g
Unsalted butter 60g 300% CD Prepare vegetables as noted.
Baby leeks, whites only 20g 100% 0 Vacuum sea l vegetables individua lly with 10 g of For more on cooking vegetables sous vide, see
Carrots, parisienne 20g 100% butter. page 3-286.
Celery root, parisienne 20g 100% Cook each vegetable so us vid e in 85 "C/ 185 "F bath to
Red pea rl onions 20g 100% desired texture, 25- 40 min.
Rutabaga, parisienne 20g 100%

Turnips, parisienne 20g 100%
MICROWAVE-FRIED PARSLEY AND CARROT TOPS Yields10 g

Neutral oil as needed CD Stretch plastic wrap over microwave-safe plate. Use o nly polyethylene-based
Ensure that plastic is flush with bottom of plate and plastic wrap for this recipe. Films
adheres tightly to plate's edges. based o n polyvinyl chloride (PVC)
0 Brush thin film of oil on plastic wrap. co uld leach into the food when
used this way.
Young carrot tops 25g 125% Lay parsley leaves and carrot tops across plastic wrap.
Flat-leaf parsley leaves 20g 100% @) Brush parsley and carrot tops thinly with oil.
Microwave on high for about 4 min until crisp,
checking eve ryl'/2 min to prevent burning.
Transfer to paper towel-lined tray. For more on frying in a microwave oven, see
page3-312.
Salt to taste 0 Season carrot tops and parsley.
Reserve in airtight contai ne r, preferably with sili ca gel
packets.
TOUGH CUT S 53
2
HUNGARIAN BEEF GOULASH
Wagyu beef cheek, sour cream Csipetke, compressed dill-pickled vegetables
"Without wishing to offend my colleagues abroad," once wrote onions, tomatoes, potatoes, and csipetke (pinched bits of dough
Karoly Gundel, arguably Hungary's greatest chef, "I feel obliged similar to spaetzle). The rules: no flour; no spices other than sweet
to state that with few exceptions, they ruin this excellent dish." paprika and caraway; never frenchify with wine. And never, ever,
Goulash would seem simple. It originated in the 9th century, when serve with rice. This is what the restaurateur George Lang would tell
shepherds cooked a thick version in a kettle over an open fire. In- you as well. He restored Karoly's famous 1910 restaurant, Gundel,
stead, it can be mystifying-is it a soup? Is it a stew? But in fact, there near Budapest. We do not wish to offend, but we snuck in black
are certain unbendable rules to gulyds, this hearty soup ofbeef, cumin and red wine vinegar to make the dish our own.
YIELD : Jour portions

SPECI A L EQ U IPM ENT: sous vide equipment
OPTIO NA L EQUIPM EN T: centrifuge
TIME RE Q UIRED : 73 h overall, including 4 h preparation and 30 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Brown Beef Stock 30min 2 h* 800g

see page 2296
Tomato Confit 30min 5 h* 100 g

see page 62
Goulash Broth 15min 30 h* 5min 1 kg
American Wagyu Beef Cheek 5min 72 h* 30min* 450g
Smoked Pepper Puree lOmin 2 h* 50g
Goulash Glaze 25min 5min 75 g
Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke) 10min 12 h* 3min 150 g

see page 4117
Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables 15min 120 g
Rye Bread 12 h 9 h* 3min 600g
GARNISH
Dill 20g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat beef cheeks in 62 oc I 144 op water bath for 30 min. Cut cheeks into slices, 1 em I 1/2 in thick.
Brush with warm glaze.
While beef cheek s are reheating:
Spoon smoked pepper puree onto each plate.
Cut bread into 3.5 em I 1V2 in wedges.
Top with three beef cheek slices.
Toast wedges in beef marrow fat in nonstick frying pan until golden
Garnish with dill-pickled vegetables. Serve sauteed csipetke and
and crisp, about 2 min on first side and 1112 min on second side.
toasted rye bread on side.
Saute csipetke in clarified butter until golden. Drain on paper towels.
Pour broth at table.
Warm goulash glaze and goulash broth.
TOUGH CUTS 55
GOULASH BROTH Yie lds 1 kg
Tomato confit 100g 17% (D Panfry together, stirring constantly to prevent

see page 62 burning, until dark, about 10 min.
Grapeseed oi l 50g 8.5%
For more on juicing strategies, see page 2-338. Red pepper juice 120g 20% 0 Deglaze pan .
(from 300 g Scrape away and discard any bits on bottom of pan.
red bell
0 Measure 250 g of red pepper mixture, and reserve.
peppers)
Red onions, thinly sliced 600g 100% Cook onions slowly in suet until deep amber and dry,
For more on strategies for rendering fat, see Rendered suet 100g 17% about 45 min . If pan becomes too dry, add small
page 3-145. amount of water to prevent onions from becoming
too dark.
Brown beef stock 800g 133% Comhine all ingredients w ith both red pepper
For more on clarification strategies, see page see page 2296 mixture and reduced onions.
2352. Caraway seeds, toasted 3.5g 0 .6% 0 Vacuum seal.
Black peppercorns, toasted 3g 0.5% Cook so us vide in 85 oc / 185 F bath for 2Y2 h.
Sweet paprika 2g 0.3% Strain through fine sieve.
Hot paprika 1.25g 0.2% @ Clarify with centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
Black cumi n seeds, toasted 0.5g 0.08% @ Refrigerate until ch illed.
Cumin seeds, toasted 0.5g 0.08% @ Measure 25 g of gou lash broth fat from surface of
broth; reserve fat and broth separately.
Sherry vinegar 45g 7.5% @ Season broth.
To see w hat happens to t his broth 1%
Sugar 6g @ Refrigerate broth and fat.
w hen it is spun in a ce ntrifuge, see
Salt to taste
page 2361.
56 VOLU M E 5 PL ATED - DI SH RE CIPE S

20
The highly marbled muscle of Wagyu beef

cheek is perfect for long, slow braising.
Beef cheeks from other breeds will also
work in the recipe but will not be quite as
rich as Wagyu. Why? See Chapter 11 on
Meat and Seafood, page 32.
AMERICAN WAGYU BEEF CHEEK Yields450g

Wagyu beef cheeks, 500g 100% <D Vacuum seal togeth er.
trimmed of sinew a nd 0 Coo k so us vid e in 62 oc / 144 F bath for 72 h.
silver skin
Coo l in ice-water bath, then refrigerate until needed.
Goulash broth, 75g 15%
from a bove
Goulash broth fat, 25 g 5%
from above
SMOKED PEPPER PUREE Yields250 g

Goulash broth, 185g 100% <D Vacuum sea l toget he r.
from above 0 Coo k sous vid e in 85 oc / 185 F bath for 2 h.
Red bell pepper, 30g 16% Blend to fine puree.
thinly sliced
@) Pass throu gh fine sieve.
Red onion, thinly sliced 23 g 12.5%
Measure 200 g of puree.
Cured ham, thinly sliced 15 g 8%
Smoked Hungarian 8g 4.5%
paprika
Red wine vin ega r to taste Season puree.
Salt to taste
Ultra-Spe rse 5 5.2 g 2.8% 0 Whisk into puree.
(National Starch brand) (2.6%)* Refrige rate.
' (% oftotal weig ht ofpepper puree)
GOULASH GLAZE Yields 75 g

Goulash broth, 400 g 100% <D Reduce to 75 g.
from above 0 Refrige rate until needed.
TOUG H CUT S 57
COMPRESSED DILL-PICKLED VEGETABLES Yields300 g
Red bell peppers, lOOg 33% CD Cut into fine julienne.
seeded and peeled
Cucumbers 175 g 58% 0 Peel and slice on diagonal] mm I X in thick with
mandoline. Yield is abo utlOO g.
Hon-shimeji mushrooms, lOOg 33% Bring water and salt to a boil.
caps only @) Blanch mushrooms in boiling salted water for 2 min.
Water lOOg 33% Shock in ice-water bath.
Salt 2g 0.67% Drain and reserve.
Red pearl onions, pee led 150 g 50% 0 Cut in half le ngthwise.
Vacuum seal.
Blanch in 95 c I 200 f bath for 4 min.
@) Separate into petals, and reserve.
White wine vinegar 300g 100% @ Combine, a nd bring to a boil to make pickling brine.
Distilled water 150g 50% @ Pour approximately 100 g of brine over each
Sugar 50g 16.7% vegetable: bell peppers, cucumbe rs, mushroo ms, and
Dill 2.8% onions.
8.Sg
Salt 7.5g 2.5% @ Cool vegetab les complete ly.
Black peppercorns 1.5g 0.5% @ Vacuum seal separate ly.
Caraway seeds 1.5g 0.5% @ Refrigerate.
58 VOLUM E 5 PLAHDDISH RECIPES

2
SOUR CREAM SPAETZLE (CSIPETKE) Yields150 g
Sour cream spaetzle 150 g 100% 0 Measure and reserve individually.
see page 4 117
Clarified unsalted butter 45 g 30% For more on clarifying butter, see page 4213.
Salt to taste
RYE BREAD ADAPTED FROM HORST BANDEL Yields 1.25 kg

For the old rye bread soaker:
Water, hot 870g 483% 0 Comb in e and coo l to room temperature.
Day-old rye bread 450g 250% 0 Vacuum seal.
loaf (homemade Refrigerate for12 h.
or store-bought)
@) Squeeze out water.
Reserve for rye dough.
For the sourdough starter:
Bread flour 200g 111% Mix together.
Water, 18 c I 65 ' F 100g 56% 0 Ripenat21 ' CI 70 ' Ffor10-12h .
Rye flour 75g 42% Measure 20 g of starter for rye dough .
Barley malt lO g 5.5%
Yeast (fresh) 5g 2.8% If using instant yeast, reduce
For the cooked rye berries: to one-third the amount shown for
fresh yeast.
Water 1 kg 555% Vacuum seal together.
Rye berries, 250g 139% @ Cook so us vide in 90 c I 194 ' F bath for 5 h.
soaked for12 h @ Drain.
@ Measure 180 g of cooked rye berries.
For the rye molasses meal:
Old rye bread soaker, 180g 100% @ Combine in bowl.
from above @ Mix on medium speed with paddl e attachment until
Blackstrap molasses 36g 20% mealy, about 2 min .
Sourdough starter, 20g 11% @ Reserve rye molasses meal.
from above
Water 360g 200% @ Combine in bowl.
Yeast (fresh) 6g 3.3%
Rye molasses meal, 236g 131% @ Mix on low speed with paddl e attachment for 10 min.
from above Mixture should look sticky but not wet.
High-gluten flour 224g 125% @ Ferment for 30 min at 25 - 30 ' C I 77-86 ' F.
Rye chops 224g 125% @ Transfer dough to cast-iron mold.
(chopped rye berries) @ Ferment for 1 h at 25-30 c I 77- 86 ' F.
Cooked rye berries, 180g 100%
from above
Salt 12.2g 6.8%
Sesame seeds as needed @ Sprinkle seeds over fermented dough in mold.
Sprouted fl axseeds as needed @ Place uncovered mold on ce nter rack of220 c I
Sunflower seeds as needed 425 ' Foven, and bake for 10 min .
@ Cove r mold, an d bake to core temperature of99 ' C I
210 ' F, about 30 min .
@ Remove cover, and let rest in mold at room
temperature for at least 2 h.
Rendered beef marrow 90 g 50% @ Reserve.
TOUGH CUTS 59
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat braised veal shank portions in 62 c I 144 p bath for Whip mixture with handheld wand mixer until thick foam forms.
25 min. Allow foam to drain for 1 min before using.
Reheat braised pine nuts, and fold in kuri squash puree.
While meat is reheating:
Fold in olive oil, cheese, and pickled squash, season with orange
Reheat bone marrow custard in combi oven set at 75 c I 167 p
zest, black pepper, and salt.
with 100% humidity for 8 min or water-vapor oven set comparably.
Warm squash glaze.
If combi oven is unavailable, reheat in steamer for 5 min.
Remove veal shank portions from bags, brush with glaze, and
While custard is heating: season with sea salt.
Whisk butter and olive oil into squash glaze, season with salt and Arrange veal shank portion, marrow custard, and braised pine nuts
lemon juice. on each plate.
Heat tomato vinegar foam mixture to 35 c I 95 F. Garnish veal with tomato vinegar foam and gremolata crisps.
TOMATO CONFIT ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yie lds150g

Tomatoes 1 kg 100% CD Core tomatoes .
0 Cut small X in blossom end of each tomato.
Blanch until sk in begins to lift at X, abo ut 10 s.
@ Shock in ice-water bath for 2 min. Peel off skin s.
Cut in half vert ically, and scoop out seeds.
Pat dry.
0 Place cut side down on baking sheet lined with
silicone mat, and reserve.
Glycerol 20g 2% Combine.
Water 20g 2% Brush evenly on tomatces.
Extra-virgin olive oil 40g 4% @ Brush eve nly on tomatoes.
Garlic, thinly sliced 15 g 1.5% @ Sprinkle equally and eve nly over tomatoes.
Thyme leaves 4g 0.4%
Bay leaves, finely sliced 1g 0.1%
Salt 2g 0.2% @ Season tomatoes evenly.
Sugar 2g 0.2% @ Dry in 110 c I 225 Foven for about 1 h.
@ Turn tomatoes over, reduce heat to 95 c I 200 F, and
dry until deep red and shriveled, 3-4 h. Cool.
@ Discard dried herbs from tomatoes.
@ Vacuum seal tomatoes and cooking oil.
Refrigerate.
BRAISED VEAL FORESHANK Yields500g

Veal foreshank 1 kg (o ne whole) 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
Water 125 g 12.5% 0 Cook so us vide in 62 c I 144 F bath for 72 h.
Remove from bag, and coo l in ice-water bath for
30min.
@ Divide meat into four equal portions, reserving
cooking juices and bon es.
Vacuum seal meat portions individually, and
See page 3109 fo r cook ing other refrigerate.
to ugh cuts of meat that can be Refrigerate coo king juices for making glaze, and
substituted for the vea l shanks. reserve bones for making custard.
Veal cheeks, veal breast, and pork Flaky sea salt to taste 0 Reserve.
or lamb shank are good options if
veal shank is not available.

20
BONE MARROW CUSTARD Yields650g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
Veal marrowbone one foreshank 0 Cut into four equa l pieces, and reserve for casting
(o ptional) bone custard. If not using bones, reserve other molds.
Water 500g 400% Soak marrow in waterfor12 h to remove blood.
Veal marrow 125g 100% Drain.
Whole milk, cold 125g 100% 0 Disperse ge latin in milk.
160 Bloom gelatin 3.5g 2.8% Vacuum seal with coffee beans.
(0.9%)* @ Cook sous vide in 75 "C/ 167 "Fbath for10 min.
Coffee beans 1.5g 1.2% 0 Strain, and reserve coffee- infused milk.
Salt 3g 2.4% Combine.
High-acyl gellan 0.55g 0.44%
(Kelcogel LTlOO, (0.75%)*
CP Kelco brand)
Low-acyl gellan 0.3g 0.24%
(Kelcogel F, (0.7%)*
CP Kelco brand)
White veal stock, warmed 250 g 200% Disperse gel mixture in stock.
slightly
see page 2296 @ Blend stock with bone marrow, infused milk, and
garli c con fit .
Garlic con fit, pureed 15g 12%
see page 3354 @ Bring mixture to a boil, and sim mer for 3 min .
@ Pour quickly into marrowbones or other molds.
@ Cool until set, abo ut 5 min.
@ Refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weight ofwhole milk and white veal stock)
SQUASH GLAZE Yields150g

Butternut squash juice 100g 17% 0 Combine.

(from400g Bring to a sim mer, and remove from heat. For more on juicing strategies, see page 2-338.
squash)
Strain through fine sieve to clarify.
Sweet onion juice 100g 17%
(fro m200g
onions)
Carrot juice 50g 8.5%
(from 200 g
carrots)
White vea l stock 600g 100% 0 Combine with strained vegetab le juice, and blend
see page 2296 until smooth.
Shank cooking juices, 100g 17% Reduce to 150 g.
from above
@ Cool.
Tomato confit, from 7g 1.2%
above
0 Refrigerate.
Unsalted butter, cubed 25 g 4% Measure and reserve ind ividually.

Extra-virgin ol ive oil 15g 2.5%
Lemon juice to taste
Salt to taste
TOUGH CUTS 63
PICKLED BUTTERNUT SQUASH YieldslOOg
Black peppercorns 3g 3% CD Combine in sachet.
Coriander seeds, toasted 3g 3%
Star anise, lightly crushed 3g 3%
Orange zest, grated 2.5g 2.5%
Dried bitter orange peel 1.5 g 1.5%
Saffron threads 0 .1 g 0 .1%
White wine vinegar 130 g 130% 0 Combine, and bring to a boil.
Water BOg 80% Remove from heat, and add sachet.
Sugar 30g 30% 0 Infuse for 3 min to season.
Salt 1g 1% Discard sachet.
Butternut squash, lOOg 100% @ Place in container.
brunoise 0 Pour hot brine over squash .
Place open container in vacuum chamber, and pull
vacuum several times to infuse squash thoroughly.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
GREMOLATA CRISP Yields: 135 g

Parsley leaves 245g 100% CD Blanch until tender, about 2 min.
Water lOg 4% 0 Blend with parsley to make fine puree.
Pass through fine sieve, and measure 85 g.
Water 120g 49% 0 Cook rice until completely soft and mixture has
long-grain white rice 50g 20% consistency of porridge, about35 min.
Puree in food processor, leaving small grain specks
visible.
@ Cool, and measure 100 g.
Rice puree, from above lOOg 41 % 0 Combine.
Parsley puree, 85g 35% Place crisp base in siphon, and charge with
from above two nitrous oxide cartridges.
Egg whites 75 g 30.6% Dispe nse onto silicone mat, and spread evenly in thin
Vodka 26 g 10.6% layer.
Baking powder 5.2g 2.1 % @ Microwave at medium power, 400 W for 50- 60s to
Salt 2.2g 1% dehydrate. Sheet should be very crunchy.
Garlic powder 2g 0.8% @ Break into uneven pieces.
lemon zest, grated 1.3g 0.3% @ Store crisps in airtight container at room temperature.
lemon juice 0 .5g 0 .2%

Black pepper, coarsely 0.4g 0 .16%
cracked
Ascorbic acid 0.35g 0 .14%
lemon essential oil 0 .1g 0.04%
(two drops)
64 VO LU ME 5 PL ATED - DI SH RECIPE S
20
TOMATO VINEGAR FOAM Yields 125g
Tomato water 1 kg 100% 0 Reduce to 125 g.
see page 2366
White wine vinegar 150g 14% 0 Add to reduced tomato water.
Salt 2.5g 0.24% Cool.
Saffron threads 1g 0.1 % @) Vacuum sea l.
Refrigerate for12 h to infuse.
Whey protein isolate 2g 0.2% Whisk into infused tomato water until dissolved.
Deoiled soy lecithin lg 0.1 % 0 Refrigerate.
BRAISED PINE NUTS WITH WINTER SQUASH Yields500 g

White veal stock 250g 250% 0 Puree until smooth, and reserve.
see page 2296
Tomato confit, lOg 10%
from above
Kabocha squash juice 1 kg 1,000% 0 Bring to a simmer, and remove from heat. For more on juicing strategies, see page 2-338.
(from4 kg Strain through fine sieve to clarify, and reserve.
squash)
White wine (dry) 75 g 75% @) Reduce to 50 g, about 5 min, and reserve.
Olive oil 25g 25% Saute until tender.
Sha llots, finely minced 25g 25%
Pine nuts, lightly toasted lOOg 100% Add to shallots, and deglaze with wine reduction .
0 Add stock mixture and kabocha squash juice.
Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for
7min.
Cool.
@ Drain, reserving pine nuts and liquid separately.
@ Reduce liquid to form glaze.
@ Fold glaze into reserved pine nuts, and coo l.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
Kuri squash, peeled and lOOg 100% @ Vacuum seal.
cut into large dice @ Cook so us vide in 90 c I 194 "F bath for 1Y., h.
Extra-virgin ol ive oil lOg 10% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Sa lt to taste @ Season squash puree, and measure BOg.
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate.
Pickled butternut squash, lOOg 100% @ Measure and reserve individually. The red-orange color of winter
drained, from above squash, also a New Wo rld export to
Extra-virgin olive oil 15g 15% Italy, is reminiscent of the saffron
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 12g 12% trad itionally used in risotto o/lo
grated Milonese.
Saffron threads O.lg 0.1 %
Black pepper, freshly to taste
ground and sifted
Orange zest, grated to taste
Salt to taste
TOUGH CUTS 65
MEMPHIS RUB Yields 32.5 g
For our friends who think barbecu-
ing is throwing a piece of meat on a
Sweet Hungarian paprika 12.5g 100% CD Grind finely, and sieve.
flaming- hot grill: it's not. That's grill- Salt 7.5g 60%
ing. Barbecui ng is done low and Garlic powder 3g 24%
slow, w ith lots of smoke (see Chili powder 2.5g 20%
Smok ing, page 2132). In so me (McCormick brand)
places, yo u'd be laughed out of Onion powder 2.5g 20%
town or worse fo r suggesting
Sweet paprika 2.5 g 20%
otherwise.
Black peppercorns 2g 16%
KANSAS RUB Yields 60 g

Brown sugar SOg 100% CD Grind finely, and sieve.

Dry rubs are usually put on 12 hours Salt 4% 8%
before cooking. However, we also Black pepper, ground 3.5g 7%
use them as a spice mix added at
Chili powder 2.5g 5%
the end.
(McCormick brand)
Sweet paprika 2.5g 5%
Garlic powder 1.5g 3%
Onion powder 1g 2%
Red chili, minced 1g 2%
KANSAS CITY BBQSAUCE Yields250 g

Ketchup (Heinz brand) 225g 100% CD Mix in heavy-botto m pot.

Tomato paste 40g 17.8% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
Water 40g 17.8% reduced to 250 g, about 20 min .
White wine vinegar 40g 17.8%
Brown sugar 35g 15%
Black pepper, ground 5g 2.2%
Chili powder 5g 2.2%
(McCormick brand)
Mustard powder 4.5g 2%
Sa lt 4.5g 2%
Cayenne pepper 4g 1.8%
Garlic powder 1g 0.4%
Onion powder 0.75 g 0.3%
Ginger, peeled and finely 0.25g 0.1 %
minced
Cum in powder 0.1g 0.05%
Green Thai chili, minced 4g 1.8% Season sauce, and refrigerate.
Lemon juice 5.5 g 2.4%
Salt to taste
68 VOLUME 5 P LATED -DIS H RECIPES

20
EAST TEXAS BBQ SAUCE Yields200 g

Ye llow onions, finely 135g 169% CD Sweat until translucent and tender in heavy-bottom
minced pot, about 7 min.
Garlic, finely mince d 7g 9%
Distilled vinegar 80g 100% 0 Combine.
Water 80g 100% Add to on ion mixture.
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 50g 62.5% @) Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
Ancho chili paste 40g 50% reduced to 200 g, about 20 min .
Worcestershire sauce 4g 5%
Chili powder 2g 2.5%
(McCormick brand)
Mustard powde r 2g 2.5%
Bay leaf, crushed 0.15g 0 .19%
Cayenne pepper O.Sg 0.6%
lemon juice 13.5 g 17% Season sauce, and refrigerate.
Sugar 2g 2.5%
Salt to taste
TO UGH CUT S 69
MEMPHIS BBQSAUCE Yields250g

Canned tomatoes 300g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Cider vinegar BOg 27% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking,
Lemon juice 40g 13% until reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Brown sugar 35g 11.5%
Chili powder 2.5g 0.85%
(McCormick brand)
Onion powder 1.5g 0.5%
Tabasco sauce lg 0.3%
Mustard powder 0 .75 g 0.25%
Cayenne pepper 0 .5g 0.15%
Salt to taste Season sauce, and refrigerate.
NORTH CAROLINA (EASTERN REGION)

BBQSAUCE Yields250g

Cider vinegar 200g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Distilled white vinegar 200g 100% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking,
Maple syrup 30g 15.5% until reduced to 250 g, about 20 min.
Chili flakes lOg 5%
Black pepper, ground 3g 1.5%
Sugar 5g 3%
We like o ur BBQ sauce spicy, and the

No rth Carolina sauce has a definite kick
to it. For a milder flavor, reduce the chi li
flakes and black pepper by half.
SOUTH CAROLINA BBQSAUCE Yields380 g

Dijon mustard 300g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Lager beer 125g 42% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until
thick, about 380 g or 20 min .
Cider vinegar 30g 10%
Tomato puree 30g 10%
Brown sugar 15g 5%
Worcestershire sauce lOg 3%
Garlic powder 1.5g 0.5%
Cayenne pepper to taste Season sauce, and refrigerate.
Cider vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
70 VO LUM E 5 P LATED -DIS H REC IPE S

20
KENTUCKYBBQSAUCE Yields300g
Kentucky BBQ is often made with
Ketchup (Hei nz brand) 300g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
mutton, but this sauce works with
Cider vinegar 60g 20% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, any meat.
Brown sugar 50g 17% until reduced to 300 g, about 15 min.
Molasses 30g 10%
Pineapple juice (fresh) 30g 10%
Bourbon (Wild Turkey) 25g 8.5%
Bacon fat 8g 2.7%
Unsalted butter 8g 2.7% Blend into warm mixture unti l fully em ulsified.
Bourbon (Wi ld Turkey) 20g 6.7% @) Season sauce, and refrigerate.
Salt to taste
NORTH CAROLINA (LEXINGTON-STYLE)

BBQSAUCE Yields300g
Cider vinegar 115g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
Distilled white vinegar 115g 100% 0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent stick ing,
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 70g 61 % until reduced to 300 g, about 10 min.
Maple syrup 30g 26%
Sugar 9.5g 8.5%
Chili flakes 7g 6%
Black pepper, ground 4.5g 4%
CENTRIFUGED BBQSAUCE Yields150g

Tomato confit 125g 100% CD Mix in heavy-bottom pot.
seepage62
0 Simmer, stirring frequently to prevent stick ing,
Brown beef jus lOOg 80% until reduced to 250 g.
see page 2344
Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
Malt vinegar lOO g 80%
@) Decant clear liquid, and discard oil and solids. Some BBQ sauces are traditionally
Smoked maple syrup 30g 25%
made thin . They stick to the meat
(store-bought)
better if you add 0.2% xanthan
Yellow onion, minced 30g 25% gum, relative to the total weight of
Bourbon (Wild Turkey) 25g 20% the sauce. Blend the gum in after
Baco n, thinly sliced and 15g 12% the final step in the sauce recipe.
rendered
Dark molasses lOg 8%
Dried smoked Hungarian 8g 6.5%
pepper
Mustard powd er 0.7 g 0.55%
Liquid smoke (AroSmoke 0.05g 0.05%
P50, Red Arrow brand)
Cayenne pepper to taste Season sauce, and refrigerate.
MSG 0.8g
Salt to taste
TOUGH CUTS 71
RED COLESLAW Yields3oog
Green a ppl e juice, 400g 267% CD Comb in e .

cla rified 0 Vacuum concentrate, using vacu um reduction
For more on clarification and filtration Red cabbage ju ice, 400g 267% equ ipm e nt, to 150 g, about 2 h.
strategies, see page 2-352. For more on vacuum cla rified
reducing, see page 2-382. Red wine vin ega r 400g 267%
Hon ey 30g 7.5% Season juice reduction.
Black p e ppe rco rns, 0.4g 0.1 %
finely crushed
Salt to taste
Red cabbage, julienne 150 g 100% @) Mix with juice reduction, a nd serve imm e di ate ly.
Pickled mustard seeds lO g 6.5%
see page 3348
WHITE COLESLAW Yields300g

Co leslaw comes in ma ny fo rms, Buttermilk 60g 40% CD Blend thoroughly to make dressing; use rotor-stator
t hick or thin, sweet o r astringent. homogenizer, if avai lable, for richer texture .
Grapeseed oil 29 g 19%
We fee l t hat the co leslaw m ust
White balsa mic vinegar 20g 13.5%
ba lance the richness of t he barbe-
c ued meat, so o ur slaws a re not Egg yolk, cooked so us 19g 12.5%
very sweet. vide in 65 C/ 149 F bath
for 35 min
Rendere d bacon fat 9g 6%
For more on strategies for rendering fat. see Dijon musta rd 7g 5%
page 3-145. Sugar 3g 2% 0 Season dressing.
Salt to taste
Savoy cabbage, fine 150 g 100% Mix together.
julienne @) Le t soften forl min.
Salt lg 0.5% Toss with dressing.
Green apple, small dice 120g 80% Arra nge o n co les law.
Horseradish root, 2g 1.5% 0 Serve imm e diate ly.
finely grated
Celery seeds, 1.5g 1%
lightly toasted
72 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DIS H RECIPES

20
POTATO SALAD Yields600g

Finge rling potatoes 400g 100% CD Toss together.
Salt Sg 1.25% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 "C/ 191 "F bath forabout30 min
(cooking time depends on size of potatoes).
Cool in ice-water bath.
@ Cut into halves o r quarters, depending on size.
Creme fraiche SOg 12.5% Whisk together.
Muscat vin egar 20g 5% @ Mix gently with potatoes. Potato salad comes in many
Walnut oil 15g 3.75% different styles. You won't see
French whole-grain 4g 1% anything like the version here at
musta rd a traditional barbecue pit, but it
Salt 2g 0.5% makes a great side dish.
Sugar 2g 0.5%
Egg yolk, coo ked so us vi de, BOg 20% 0 Fold ge ntly into salad.
at 68 c I 154 "Ffor 35 min,
coo led and quartered
Pickled pearl onions, petals 48 g 12%
see page 3348
Celery leaves, thinly sliced 3 g 0.75%
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 0.5%
and crushed
Scallions, 40g 10% Saute over med ium heat until tender.
whites only (four pieces) Arrange around salad.
Potato skins 200g 50% @ Toss potato sk in s with starch.
Potato starch 15g 3.75% @ Fry in 180 c ; 360 "Foil until go lden and crisp,
Frying oil as needed about3 min .
Salt to taste @ Toss with sa lt.
@ Serve with salad .
TOUGH CUT S 73
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES Yields250g
Green tomatoes, cored 300g 100% CD Blanch forl min.
0 Shock in ice-water bath.
Peel off skins.
@ Cut slices 8 mm /'l' in thick.
Cultured buttermilk 150g 50% Blend to make wash.
Eggs, blended 150g 50%
Cornmeal lOOg 35% Mix to make cornmea l breading.
Panko 25g 8.5% 0 Dredge tomato slices in wash.
Black pepper 0.8g 0.25% Coat slices with cornmeal breading.
Cayenne pepper 0.2g 0.05%
Canolaoil as needed Deep-fry in 200 oc I 390 F o il for 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.

20
FRIED PICKLES Yields250g
Water 200g 80% (!) Mix to make batter.
All-purpose flour 130g 52% 0 Allow to rest at room temperature for 30 min.
Triso l (Texturas brand) 180g 72%
(55%)*
Yeast (fresh) 4g 1.6%
(0.8%)**
Salt 2g 0.8% Season batter.
Pickling cucumbers 250g 100% @) Cut into sli ces 6 mm I 14 in thick.
White wine vinegar 200g 80g Combine to make pickling liquid.
Water 150 g 60%
Sugar 125g 50%
Salt 12.5g 5%
Garlic, thinly sliced 6.5g 2.5%
Celery seeds O.Sg 0.3%
Chili flakes 0.1 g 0.05%
Dill 2g 0.8% Vacuum seal with cucumber slices and coo led
pickling liquid .
0 Refrigerate for at least12 h.
Frying oil as needed Dip pickle slices in batter.
Deep-fry in 200 c I 390 F oil for 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
*(% oftotal weight ofwater andflour usedfor batter)
**(% oftotal weight of.first three ingredients)
REMOULADE SAUCE Yields200g

Mayonnaise 90 g 100% (!) Combine.
store-bo ught or see page 4226
0 Refrigerate.
Lemon juice 55g 60%
Whole-grain mustard 31 g 35%
Garlic clove, crushed 4g 4.5%
Green bird 's eye chili 3.5g 4%
(fresh), m i need
Worcestershire sauce 2.5g 2.5%
What Southerners call remoulade
Hot sauce 2g 2%
sauce is related to the classic
Hungarian sweet paprika O.Sg 0.5% French sauce remoulade as we ll as
Celery, peeled and finely 30g 35% Fold into mayonnaise mixture just before serving. to tartar sauce.
minced
Flat-leaf parsley, minced 4g 4.5%
Celery leaf, minced 2g 2%
Chives, minced 2g 2%
Black pepper, coarse ly O.Sg 0.5%
crushed
Salt to taste @) Season remoulade.
TOUGH CUTS 75
CORN BREAD Yields1 kg
There are many styles of corn bread Corn kernels (freshly cut) 560g 100% 0 Saute until browned, about 12 min.
across the United States. This (from about
version is nontraditional but has an six ears)
amazing flavor and texture. Sieving Unsalted butter 150g 27%
out kernel skins is a nice, but
Lard 100g 18%
optional, refinement.
Eggs, blended 100 g 18% 0 Puree in blend er.
Heavy crea m 100 g 18% Add sauteed co rn .
Whole milk 50g 10% @) Pass through fin e tam is to remove kern el sk ins
(optional).
Flour 150 g 27% M ix together.
lsomalt 140 g 25% Fold in milk mixture.
Cornmeal 100 g 18% 0 Transfer to greased and floured loaf mold, filling half
Sugar 50g 10% fu ll.
Baking powder 3.2g 0.5% Bake in 130 c I 265 Foven to core temperature of
88 c I 190 F, abo ut 20 min.
Baking soda 1.75 g 0.3%
Rest at roo m temperature for 5 min.
Thyme leaves, chopped to taste
@ Unmold, and sli ce to desired thickness.
4b
10
76 VOLUME 5 P LATED -DISH RECIPES

20
BAKED BEANS Yields700 g
Dry navy beans 200g 100% CD Soak in water overn ight in refrigerator.
0 Rinse bea ns.
Place in fresh water, and pressure-cook at a gauge
pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for 25 min.
@) Coo l in cooking water.
Brown pork stock 300g 150% Comb ine to make sauce.
see page 2296
Bring to boil.
Sweet onions, finely 65g 32.5%
minced
0 Skim, and reduce to 250 g, or 150 g for thicker sauce.
Maple syrup comes in severa l
Vacuum sea l sauce with cooled beans.
Grad e B maple syrup 40g 20% grades. Grade A is often considered
Pomegranate mol asses 30g
Cook so us vid e in 80 c I 176 "F bath for 1 h. the best, but for most cook ing
15%
(store-bought) applications we prefer Grade B,
Tomato confit 30g which has a much stronger flavor.
15%
seepage62
Bourbon (Wild Turkey) 20g 10%
Dijon mustard 15g 7.5%
Smoked Hungarian 8g 4%
pepper, hydrated and
sieved
Smoked ham hock meat, 60g 30% @) Add to cooked beans.
fin ely minced
Sh erry vinegar to taste
BUTTERMILK BISCUITS Yields500g

White lily biscuit flour 300g 100% CD Mix together.

Baking powd er 13.5g 4.5% 0 Sift.
Sugar 12g 4%
Salt 3g 1%
Unsalted butter 115g 38% Freeze butter; optionally, use liquid nitrogen.
liquid nitrogen (optional) as needed @) Pulse in food processor until round balls form,
3 mm I }11 in. in diameter.
White lily brand flour is milled
Toss into sifted flour mixture. from soft w heat. If unavailable,
Heavy cream 115g 38% Mix together. substitute another soft wheat flour
Creme fralche 70g 25% 0 Drizzle ove r flour mixture. or a pastry flour. If you use all-
purpose flour, you may need to
Egg, blended 30g 10% Mix very lightly until wet.
increase the amount of liquid
Place dough o n plastic w rap. slightly.
@) Roll into log 8 em I 3Y., in. in diameter; wrap in plasti c.
@ Freeze partially.
@ Cut into round sli ces 2 em I :Y.. in thick .
@ Place sli ces on baking sheet lin ed with fl oured silicone
mat.
@ Bake in 200 c I 390 "Foven until golden on top,
about 5 min .
@ Serve warm.
T OUGH CUT S 77
PULLEDPORKSHOULDER Yields500 g
We fi nd that the best flavo r comes

Pork shoulder, skin on, 300g 100% CD Smoke at 65 c l149 Fand 60% relative humidity
boneless (wet-bulb temperature 55 c l 131 F) for 7 h.
from smoking at a low te mperature,
and the best texture comes from 0 Vacuum sea l.
long, controlled cooking sous vide. Cook so us vide in 65 c I 150 Fbath for 72 h.
If you r smoke r does not control @ Pull meat apa rt with two forks, and discard pieces
humidity, use an improvised offat.
wet-b ulb thermometer to keep the
BBQ sauce 300g 100% Mix into pulled meat.
temperature low, as described on see page 4 49
page 3211.
PORK RIBS Yields500g

Pork spare ribs, 1.2 kg 100% CD Smoke at 65 c l149 Fand 60% relative humidity
membran e removed (wet-bulb temperature 55 c 1 131 F) for 7 h.
0 Vacuum seal.
Cook so us vide in 60 c I 140 F bath for 48 h.
Dry rub, 30g 2.5% @ Rub onto ribs just before serving.
from above Flash with blowtorch, or brown lightly if desired.

20
BEEF SHORT RIBS Yields500g

Beef short ribs 1.2 kg 100% 0 Smoke at 65 c 1 149 F and 65% relative humidity
(wet-bu lb temperature 55 c 1 131 F) for 7 h.
0 Vacuum seal.
Cook so us vide in 60 c 1 140 F bath for 72 h.
0 Sl ide bones out wh il e meat is warm.
Slice meat to serve.
East Texas BBQsauce, 100g 8% Brush on sli ced meat.
from above
This brisket shows a highly developed

smoke ring.
BEEF BRISKET Yields500g

Beef brisket 700g 100% 0 Smoke at 65 c I 149 Fand 65% relative humidity
(wet-bu lb temperature 55 c 1 131 F) for 7 h.
0 Vacuum seal.
Cook so us vide in 63 c I 146 F bath for 72 h.
0 Trim off extra fat.
Slice meat to serve.
Kansas City BBQ sauce, 100 g 14% Brush on sli ced meat.
from above
TOUGH CUTS 79
20
CASSOULET TOULOUSAIN (AUTUMN)
Tarbais beans, crispy duck tongues, Pyrenees ham infusion
Cassoulet, a rich, hearty casserole of beans, meat, and herbs, is That's the inspiration for this version. White Tarbais beans are
nothing if not grounded in tradition. Three cities in southwestern pressure-cooked, which, with the proper concentration and blend of
France each guard their own regional 14th-century recipe with salts in the water, renders the inside creamy and the skin taut. (Split
near-religious fervor. Bubbling in a rustic earthenware pot, cassoulet skin can turn beans into goop.) The stew is completed by adding a
is cooked for many hours; French chefs speak of crafting it with love. rich ham broth with garlic sausage, duck confit, lamb shoulder, and,
So it's a little surprising that cassoulet also comes in cans and jars. for gastronomic flourish, crispy duck tongues.

SPEC IA L EQ U IPM EN T: sous vide equipment, centrifuge, pressure cooker
TIME REQUIRED : 55 h overall, including 17 h preparation and 45 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Toulousain Garlic Sausage 30 min and 16 h* 1 h 5 min* 30min* 160 g

see page 3238
Sous Vide Duck Confit Pave 10min 6 h* and 48 h* 15 min* 400g
Pressure-cooked Tarbais Beans 10min 1h 2min 80g
Brown Lamb Stock 1Smin 2 h* 100 g

see page 2296
Braised Lamb Shoulder Smin 48 h* 15 min* 400g
Garlic Confit Smin 3 h* 30g

see page 3354
Brown Pork Stock 1Smin 2 h* 700g

see page 2296
Crispy Duck Tongues 5 h* and 2 h* 1 min 65g
Cured Ham Broth lOmin 1 hSmin 2min 60g
GARNISH
Thyme leaves 12small
Bay leaf, julienne 2g
Garlic confit 15 g
see page 3354
*(unattended times)
TOUGH CUTS 81
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat duck confit, garlic sausage, and lamb shoulder Sear garlic sausage, sliced 1 em I 1/2 in thick, on griddle until golden
in 56 oc I 133 F bath, about 35 min. on all sides.
Preheat griddle to 220 oc I 425 F. Panfry duck confit (or use griddle), skin side only, until golden
While meats are reheating: and crisp. Carve into slices 1.5 em I 5/s in thick.
Heat oil for duck tongues to 205 oc Spoon beans into four shallow bowls.
I 400 F.
Deep-fry duck tongues until puffed and crispy, about 1 min. Arrange lamb shoulder, sausage, and duck on beans.
Drain on paper towels, and season with salt. Garnish with duck tongues, thyme, bay leaf, and garlic confit.
Warm ham broth and beans. Pour ham broth at table.
TOULOUSA IN GARLIC SAUSAGE Yields750g

Usi ng polyphosphates can shorten Lean pork 735g 100% @ Combine sa lt with lean meat, and refrigerate overnight.
presalt ing time. Alternatively, skip Pork fatback, frozen
this step altogether by adding
255g 35% 0 Grind meat and fat through 5 mm I ll in grinding plate.
Salt 18g 2.4%
0.25% Act iva Tl. for details, see
page3250. Garlicconfit 30g 4.1% Combine ground meat, fat, and spices in a stand mixer.
see page 3354
Nutmeg, finely ground 1g 0.14%
Natural cas ings, as needed @) Prepare, stuff, and link casings 10 em I 4 in long.
Goose o r d uck co nfit is the 2.5 em I 1 in diameter
Hang sausages overnight in refrigerator.
signature of this dish in the town of
Cut two links, and vacuum seal, without crushing.
Caste lnaudary, the self-p roclaimed
wo rld capita l of cassoulet. In 0 Cook garl ic sausage so us vide in 59 CI 138 F bath to
Toulouse, it's sausage. Res idents of core temperature of 58 oc 1 136 F, about 35 min. Hold
Carcassonne replace the duck with at that temperature for 30 min to pasteurize.
partridge in their casso ulet. Coo l in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
SOUS VIDE DUCK CONFIT PAVE YieldsBSOg

Salt 200g 24.5% @ Combine.
Allspice berries lOg 1.2% 0 Grind coarsely to form rub.
Thyme 8g 1%
Garlic, thinly sliced Sg 0.6%
Star anise 1.9g 0.23%
Rosemary 1g 0.12%
Bay leaves 0.9g 0.11%
Black pepper 0.8g 0.1 %
Coriander seeds 0.8g 0.1 %
Orange zest, grated 0.1g 0.01 %
Duck legs, boneless 825g 100% Coat duck legs with rub.
@) Cure in refrigerator for 6 h.
Rinse legs, and pat dry on paper towel- lin ed tray.
Activa does not need to rest while ActivaRM 8g 1% Dust meat sid e of cured duck legs with Activa RM.
bon ding because it wi ll hot-set (1%)*
while cook ing. The vacuum packag-
0 Pack together, with skin sides facing out, in mold,
10 em by 20 em I 4 in by 8 in and 5 em I 2 in dee p.
ing holds it toget her.
Vacuum seal.
Cook so us vide in 60 CI 140 F bath for48 h.
Refrige rate.
*(% oftotal weight ofcured duck legs)
82 VOLUME 5 PLATED D ISH RECIPES

20
PRESSURE-COOKED TARBAIS BEANS Yields200 g

Sweet onions, thinly sli ced 40g 27% CD Sweat in pressure cooker until onio ns are translucent. The beans and sauce can be sea led
Baco n, thinly sliced 30g 20% inside a suitable retort bag or
Re nd ered du ck fat lOg 7% canning jar prior to pressure-
cooking. This allows them to be
Garlic, thinly slice d S.Sg 3.7%
stored unrefrigerated after
Thym e O.Sg 0.3% cooking.
Black pepper, cracke d 0.2g 0.13%
Brown pork stock 400g 267% 0 Deglaze pressure cooke r.
see page 2296
Dry tarbais beans (or navy lSOg 100% Add to onion mi xture.
bea ns) 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi for For more on canning, see page 2-75.
Calcium chloride lg 0.67% 45min .
Coo l.
Refrigerate.
BRAISED LAMB SHOULDER YieldsSOOg

Lamb shoulde r, boneless SOOg 100% CD Vacuum sea l.
Brown lamb stock lOOg 20% 0 Cook so us vide in 56 c / 133 F bath for 48 h.
see page 2296
Coo l in ice-wate r bath.
Rende red duck fat SOg 10%
0 Refrigerate.
Garlic, thinly sli ced 9g 1.8%
Thym e 0.4g 0.08%
TOUGH CUT S 83
CRISPY DUCK TONGUES Yields65g

Water 250g 167% CD Vacuum sea l.
Duck tongues 150g 100% 0 Cook sous vide in 88 oc I 190 F bath for 5 h.
Salt Sg 3% Remove from bag, and pull out central bone from
each tongue while warm.
0 Dehydrate tongues in 50 oc 1 120 Foven until
completely dry, about 2 h.
Vacuum seal loose ly, and refrigerate.
Frying oil as needed Reserve.
CURED HAM BROTH Yields350g

Sweet onions, thinly sliced SOg 16.7% CD Saute until translucent.
Olive oil 25 g 8.3%
Leeks, thinly sliced 21 g 7%
Dry-cured ham, SOg 16.7% 0 Add to onion mixture, and saute for 5 min.
thinly sliced
Garlic, thinly sliced 5.5 g 1.8%
Brown pork stock 300g 100% Combine with onion and ham mixture.
see page 2296
0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi
Salt 1.2g 0.4% for1 h.
Thyme 0.3g 0.1 % Strain through fine sieve, and coo l.
Season.
0 Refrigerate.
,.
Spring cassoulet replaces duck tongues

and confit with duck ham, among other
changes from the autumn version.

20
CASSOULET TOULOUSAIN (SPRING)
Fresh shell beans, duck ham, spring garlic consomme
After a winter of rich, fatty foods, something less heavy is in order. tiona! autumn cassoulet (page 81), served cold, is perfect for late
Fresh beans plucked from a sunny garden. Milk-fed baby lamb or spring and takes one-quarter of the time to prepare. Traditionalists
spring lamb. Early green garlic. A more delicate pork sausage. may say that this is not really cassoulet, but we think they would
A sprightly consomme. This lively and light reworking of the tradi- agree that this dish is delicious.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, pressure cooker
OPT IONAL EQU I PMENT: centrifuge
TIME REQUIRED: 20 h overall, including 5~ h preparation and 10 min to finish
SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: serve cold
TIME TO
COMPONENT PREP COOK FIN ISH QUANTITY
Green Garlic and Pork Sausage 30 min and 4 h* 12 h* and 35 min* 1 min 200g
Sous Vide Duck Ham 1Smin 12 h* and 6 h* 2min 100 g

(four portions, 25 g each)
Spring Garlic Consomme 10min 1 h* and 1 h* 200g
Country Bread Crisps Smin 1 h* and 30 min* four crisps
Poached Lamb Loin Smin 40min* 1min 200g
Fresh Bean Salad 20min 20min* lOOg
GARNISH
Summersavoryleaves 12small
Wood sorrel leaves 12 small
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Slice duck ham into sheets 1 mm I Yl6 in thick, lamb loin into slices Season.
5 mm I 1/4 in thick, and sausage, on diagonal, into slices 1 em I 3/s in Arrange slices oflamb, duck ham, and sausage on each plate.
thick. Finish with bread crisps.
Toss cooked beans and peas with other salad elements. Pour consomme at table.
Legend has it that cassoulet was created during the

14th-century siege of Castelnaudary, in the Languedoc-
Ro ussillon reg ion of the south of France. Citizen
sold iers needed a hearty meal to give them strength to
fight. They got casso ulet, but they lost nevertheless.
TOUGH CUT S 85
GREEN GARLIC AND PORK SAUSAGE Yields300g
Pork shoulder, boneless 250 g 100% CD Cut in to cub es.

For more on grinding coarse sausages, see Fatback 80 g 32% @ Toss with meat and fat cubes, and refrigerate fo r4 h.
pageH25. Salt 4.5 g 1.8% 0 Grind all cubes through 5 mm I \4 in grinding pl ate.
Nutrifos 088, dissolved 0.66 g 0.26%
in small amount of warm (0.2 %)*
w ater
Gree n garlic, blanched 8g 3.2% 0 Mix th oro ughly w ith ground pork mixture.
and fin ely min ced Form into sausages 3.75 em l l Y2 in. in di amete r and
10 em I 4 in long by using pl astic wrap to mold the
meat mixture.
M ature links ove rnight in refrigerator.
0 Vacuum seal, and coo k so us vid e in 61 c 1 142 "F bath
to co re temperature of 60 "CI 140 "F, about45 min.
Coo l in ice-wate r bath, and refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weig ht ofpork shoulder and fa tback)
SPRING GARLIC CONSOMME Yields250g
Carrots, thinly sliced 80g 40% CD Saute un til oni ons are transluce nt.
White onions, thinly sliced 80g 40%
Unsalted butter 25 g 12.5%
Du ck meat, ground 350g 175% @ Com bi ne w ith carrots and onions.
Water 20 0 g 100% 0 Press ure-coo k for 1 h at a gauge p ressure
Black peppercorns 0.2g 0.1% ofl bar I 15 psi.
0 Strain through fin e sieve.
Ce ntrifuge at 27,5 00g fo r 1 h.
Strain, and meas ure 100 g of consom me.
Green garlic spears 200 g 100% 0 Bl anch fo r 3 min.
Puree.
Ce ntri fuge at 27,500g fo r 1 h.
@ Rese rve res ulting clea r jui ce, and meas ure 20 g.
@ Whisk into conso mm e base.
For more on centrifuging and alternative
clarification strategies, see page 2-352. Lime juice to taste @ Season conso mm e.
Salt to tas te @ Vacuum seal.
@ Refri ge rate.
COUNTRY BREAD CRISPS Yields100g
Brioche 100g 100% CD Cut away cru st.

@ Wrap in plasti c wrap, and freeze.
0 Cut on meat sli cer into sli ces 1 mm I X in thick.
Rend ered duck fat, warm lO g 10% 0 Brush brioche slices w ith du ck fat, and bake in
Salt l g 1% 110 "CI 230 " F ove n until gold en and dried, about
30min.
Seaso n w ith salt.
Store in airtight co nta iner in coo l, dry enviro nm ent.
86 VOLUME 5 PLATED - DI SH RECIPES

20
sous VIDE DUCK HAM ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields750 g
Salt 18g 1.2% 0 Combine to make cure.

lnsta Cure No.1 7.5g 0.5%
Duck thighs, boneless 1.5 kg 100% 0 Coat duck pieces with cure.
and skinless
Warm water 100g 6.7% 0 Comb in e to prepare slurry.

Activa GS or RM 25g 1.7% @ Brush cured duck pieces with mixture.
see page 3250 (25%)* Place duck pieces in terrine.
Vacuum sea l.
0 Refrigerate terrine for12 h.
Cook so us vide in 69 oc / 156 F bath for 6 h.
Top sea led terrine with weight to flatten.
@) Refrigerate until cool.
@ Freeze.
*(%oftotal weight ofwater)
POACHED LAMB LOIN Yields320 g
Water 500g 143% 0 Comb ine to make brine.

Salt 35g 10%
lamb loin, 350g 100% 0 Vacuum sea l lamb in brine, and refrigerate for4 h.
silver skin removed 0 Rinse lamb, and pat dry on paper towel-lined tray.
@ Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 58 oc / 136 Fbath
to co re temperature of 57 oc / 135 F, about 40 min.
Coo l.
Extra-virgin olive oil 50g 14% Vacuum seal with coo led lamb. Refrigerate.
FRESH BEAN SALAD Yi elds100 g
Fava beans, shelled 25 g 100%* 0 Vacuum sea l peas and each type of bean individu ally. For more on cooking green vegetables, see
and peeled 0 Cook so us vide in 88 oc / 190 Fbath for20 min, or to chapter 12 on Plant Foods, page 3-258.
English peas, shelled 20g desired doneness.
and peeled 0 Cool in ice-water bath .
Romano beans, trimmed 15g @ Cut beans crosswise into 2.5 em / 1 in pieces.
Green beans, trimmed 14g Combine.
Yellow wax beans, 14 g Refrigerate.
trimm ed
Roasted-hazelnut oil 7g 8% 0 Measure and rese rve individu ally.

Purslan e leaves 7g 8%
Vermouth vinegar 5g 5.7%
(o r other semisweet
white vinegar)
Scallion, thinly sliced 4g 4.5%
lime juice 3g 3.4%
Salt to taste
Black pepper to taste
*(100% is the total weight ofa// beans used)
TOUGH CUTS 87
20
HISTORIC LAMB CURRIES
A culinary tour of regional Indian curries
Over the millennia, India has been a crossroad for many peoples. ern Indian curry dating to the Mughals, then move to a curry from
Some came to trade; some came to conquer. Some left a small Hyderabad in the south, where Muslim cuisine prevails. Heading
footprint, whereas others left an almost indelible mark on Indian southwest to the Malabar Coast, we come to Goa, home of the
culture and cuisine. Foremost among the newcomers were the fiery-hot vindaloo. Next, we travel south down the coast to Kerala,
Mughals of Central Asia, the Portuguese, and the British. where Malayali curries feature coconut milk and black pepper. We
Unsurprisingly, the cuisine of this large subcontinent varies finish on the southeastern coast in Chennai (formerly Madras),
considerably, influenced by climate, agricultural practices, and where Masala curry favors green chilies and mustard seeds.
religion. Although curry can be found in most areas of India, the Lamb shanks are the traditional backdrop for all of these curries,
ingredients used and the method of preparation vary by region. This but other tough cuts oflamb, beef, or pork-as well as chicken or
is evident in the regional preferences for spices, thickening agents, turkey-can also work, and many of the sauces here will complement
and even the texture and color of the curry. fish or seafood. Use the sous vide time-temperatures tables on page
Because Indian curries may number in the thousands-too 2276 or the recipes in Cooking Meat and Seafood, page 370, as a
numerous to document here-we have chosen five to showcase their guide. One of the advantages of cooking the meat so us vide and
enormous variety (see map on page 3196). We begin with a north- separately from the sauces is the ability to mix and match easily.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment
TIME REQUIRED: 60 h overall, including 20-40 min ofpreparation and 1 h to reheat and finish
SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: choose one curry, and prepare it with its traditional side dishes
TIME TO
Sous Vide Lamb Shank Smin 60h* 30min* 600g

see page 3109 (four shanks)
Tomato Puree lOmin 25 min* 1 h* 310 g
see page 3 290
MUG HAL CURRY
Mughal Curry Sauce 20min 30 min and 12 h* S min 120g
Apricots, pitted and thinly sliced SOg
Cashew Halvah Smin 40g
GARNISH
Indian sorrel leaves 30g
MUSLIM CURRY
Ghee lOmin 4Smin Smin 120g

see page 4213
Muslim Curry Sauce lOmin 4Smin Smin 120g
Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao lOmin 30min 20min 200g
TOUGH CUTS 89
Red Rose Petals (organic or grown to be edible) 20g
RoseWater 10 g
Dates, pitted and thinly sliced 20g
Saffron Honey Foam lOmin 2min 60g
GARNISH
Toasted pistachios 10 g
Toasted almonds 10 g
GOAN CURRY (VINDALOO, PORTUGUESE-STYLE)

Goan Curry Sauce 10min 1 handS min* Smin 120g
Cucumber Black-eyed Pea Salad 10min 30min 60g
Papadams (store-bought) 30s 60g
KERALA CURRY
Kerala Curry Sauce 1Smin 1h Smin 120 g
Green Papaya Pickle 10min 12min 40g
Crispy Okra 7min 3min SOg
Raw Okra 3min 1 min 60g
GARNISH
Fenugreek leaves 30g
Small mint leaves 20g
MASALA CURRY (MADRAS)

Masala Curry Sauce lOmin 11,4 h Smin 120 g
Banana Yogurt Smin 12 min* and 1 h* 10min 40g
Tamarind Paste 8min 30min* 60g
Stuffed Smoky Braised Eggplant 2Smin 4Smin 200g
GARNISH
Toasted sesame seeds 20g
Coriander leaves, small 20g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
For Mughal Curry For Muslim Curry
Reheat lamb shanks in 58 c I 136 p bath for 1 h. Reheat lamb shanks in 58 c I 136 p bath for 1 h.
While lamb shanks are reheating: While lamb shanks are reheating:
Reheat curry sauce. Cook pulao. Toast soaked rice in ghee for about 10 min. Add
Arrange one lamb shank, apricot, and cashew halvah on each plate. reserved carrots, candied orange, and measured water to rice. Bring
Finish with curry sauce. to boil, reduce heat, and cook until tender and fluffy, about10 min.
Garnish with sorrel leaves.

While pulao is cooking: While lamb shanks are reheating:
20
Reheat curry sauce. Reheat curry sauce.
Arrange one lamb shank, dates, and rose petals on each plate. Coat okra in chickpea flour, and shake off excess.
Finish with curry sauce, pulao, rose water, and saffron honey foam. Deep-fry okra until golden and crispy, about 3 min. Transfer to
Garnish with toasted pistachios and almonds. paper towel-lined tray.
Toss raw okra with onions and chaat masala, and season.
For Goan Curry Arrange one lamb shank, crispy okra, raw okra, and papaya pickle
Reheat lamb shanks in 58 oc I 136 OF bath for 1 h. on each plate.
Heat frying oil to 195 oc I 385 F. Finish with curry base.
Garnish with fenugreek leaves and mint leaves.
While lamb shanks are reheating:
Reheat curry sauce.
For Masala Curry
Fry papadams until lightly golden and crispy, about 30 s. Transfer
Reheat lamb shanks in 58 oc I 136 F bath for 1 h.
to paper towel-lined tray.
Toss cucumber-pea salad with seasoning blend. While lamb shanks are reheating:
Arrange one lamb shank and cucumber salad on each plate. Reheat curry sauce and braised eggplant.
Finish with curry sauce and papadams. Arrange one lamb shank, banana yogurt, and braised eggplant on
each plate.
For Kerala Curry Finish with curry sauce.
Reheat lamb shanks in 58 oc I 136 OF bath for 1 h. Garnish with sesame seeds and coriander leaves.
Heat frying oil to 195 oc I 385 F.
T OUGH CU TS 91
Parathas are a delicious accompaniment to the
Mughal curry. We make them nontraditionally with
Mughal Curry
puff pastry dough (store-bought, or follow your
favorite recipe). Roll two layers of the pastry on top of with Cashew Halvah
each other. Dust with thinly sliced green chi lis, and
panfry until golden and cooked through. Good
quality store-bought parathas are also available at
many Indian grocery stores.
MUGHALCURRYSAUC E Yields450g
Instead of soaking the nuts and Raw almonds 160g 80% 0 Cover with water, and soak in refrigeratorfor12 h.
seeds for 12 h, you can soften them Raw cashews 160g 80% 0 Drain, and grind together to fine paste.
in a pressure cooker: 45 min at a 4% Cover with water, and soak in refrigeratorfor12 h.
Poppy seeds 8g
gauge pressure of1 bar / 15 psi.
@) Drain, and grind to fine paste.
Shallots, thinly sliced 200g 100% Saute shallots until trans lu cent and lightly golden.
For more on making ghee. see page 4213. Ghee 30g 15%
Garlic, grated 6g 3% Combine aromatics, and add to sha ll ots.
Ginger, grated 6g 3% 0 Saute together until golden, about 5 min.
Green Thai chili, 5g 2.5%
fine ly minced
Turmeric (fresh), grated 4g 2%
Nutmeg, grated 2g 1%
Bay leaf 0.25g 0 .3%
Mace blade 1.6g 0.8% Toast in 170 c ; 340 Foven until golden and
Coriander seed 1g 0 .5% aromatic, 10-15 min.
Cumin seed 0.5g 0.25% Grind to fine powder in coffee grinder or blender.
0.25% @ Add to sauteed mixture.

Cinnamon stick 0.5g
Black pepper 0.5g 0.25%
Clove 0.5g 0.25%
Green cardamom seeds 0.1g 0.05%
Raisins 25g 12.5% @ Add raisins to sha ll ot-aromatics mixture,
and add nut and poppy seed pastes.
@ Simmer for 25 min, and remove from heat.
Plain yogurt 8g 4% @ Add to shallot mixture.
Lime juice to taste @ Season sauce.
Salt to taste @ Cool and refrigerate.
92 VO LU M E 5 PLATED DI SH RECIPE S
20
MUSLIM CURRY SAUCE Yields350g
Ghee 40g 20% 0 Saute unti l translucent an d lightl y go lden, abo ut
see page 4213 lOmin.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 110 g 55%
Ginger, grated 7g 3.5% 0 Add to onion, and saute until fragra nt, abo ut 5 min. These curry sauces have a tradi-
Garlic, grated 7g 3.5% tio nal texture. They stick to the
Black peppercorns, 2g 1% Toast in shallow pan in 170 c ; 340 Foven until meat bette r if you ad d 0 .2%
toasted and ground go lde n an d a romatic, 10-15 min . xanthan gum, relative to the total
we1ght of the sauce. Use a blender
Green cardamom seeds, 2g 1% @ Grind to fine powder in coffee grinder or blender.
or rotor-stato r homogenizer to
toasted and ground
blend t he gum in after t he fi nal step
Cinnamon stick, 2g 1% in the reci pe.
toasted and ground
Cumin seeds, 2g 1%
toasted and ground
Mace blade, 0.8g 0.4%
toasted and ground
Nutmeg, grated 0.8g 0.4% Mix with ground spices and onion-garlic mixture.
Cane sugar 4g 2%
Heavy cream 200g 100% Ad d to spiced on ion mixture.
Water 60g 30% 0 Simmer for 30 min, and remove from heat.
Unsalted butter 16g 8% Whisk into sauce.
Lime juice 4g 2%
Saffron threads 0.8g 0.4%
Rosewater to taste Season.
Salt to taste @ Cool a nd refrigerate.
Muslim Curry with

Saffron Honey Foam
Candied Orange
and Carrot Pulao
CASHEW HALVAH Yields 130 g

Cashews, roasted 100 g 100% @ Combine.
N-ZorbitM J Og 30% 0 Grind to fine powd er.
(National Starch brand) Refrigerate.
Salt 1.5g 1.5%
TOUGH CUT S 93
CANDIED ORANGE AND CARROT PULAO Yields450g
Water 300g 100% 0 Soak rice in sa lted wate r for 30 min.

Basmati ri ce 170g 56% 0 Drain and reserve .
Salt 2.5g 0.8%
Water 450g 150% Measure and reserve individually.
Ghee 35g 11 .7%
Orange juice 90g 30% @) Comb in e, and simm er until syrupy, about 20 min.
Orange zest, fin e julienne 45g 15% Reserve ca ndied orange syrup.
Water 45g 15%
Sugar 25g
Carrots, fine julie nn e 70g 23.3% Cook carrots until tender.
Ghee 30 g 10% 0 Comb in e with cand ie d o range sy ru p.
Almonds, toasted lOg 3.3% Measure and reserve individually.
Pistachios, toasted lO g 3.3%
SAFFRON HONEY FOAM Yields150g
Water lOO g 100% 0 Co mbin e .

Saffron threads 0.4 g 0.4% 0 Infu se fo rlO min at room temperature.
Honey 36g 36% Co mbin e with saffron water.
Deoiled soy lecithin 1.4 g 1.4% @) Blend until co mpl ete ly incorpo rated.
powd er
Whey protein isolate 0.2g 0 .2%
Salt to taste Season, vacuum seal, and refrige rate.
CUCUMBER BLACK-EYED PEA SALAD Yields200g
Black-eyed peas lOO g 100% 0 Cover with water, and soa k in refri ge rator for 8 h.
0 Drain, and simme r until tender, about 25 min .
Drain, and coo l comp letely.
Cucumber, peele d, 170g 170% @) Co mbin e with peas.
seeded, cut into
medium dice
Coconut (fresh), 25g 25%
thinly sliced
Gree n Thai chili, 2g 2%
finel y minced
Lemon juice to taste Season sa lad, and refrige rate.
Salt to taste
Coconut oil 15g 15% Heat oi l in ski ll e t.
Brown musta rd seeds 2.3g 2.3% 0 Add remaining ingredients, an d toast until a ro matic,
Baby chickpea lentils 2g 2% abo ut 5 min, to make seasoning blend.
(channa dal) Refrige rate.
Black gram (urad dal) 2g 2%
Cumin 1.8g 1.8%
Asafetida powde r 0 .8g 0 .8%
Curry leaves O.Sg 0 .5%
Dried red chili, cru shed 0.3g 0.3%
94 VO LU ME 5 PLATED-D IS H RECI PES

20
Goan Curry (vindaloo)
Cucumber and Black-eyed Pea Salad
GOAN CURRY SAUCE Yields200g

Sweet onions, 120g 100% CD Saute until translucent and lightly golden, about
thinly sliced 10min .
Ghee 35 g 29%
The traditional way to toast spices
Tomato puree 60g 50% 0 Add to onions. in Indian cuisine is in a dry skillet.
see page 2424
0 Saute mixture for 5 min. We prefer a n ove n fo r more
Garlic, finely grated 7g 5.8% control, but even with this method
Ginger, finely grated 7g 5.8% you need to watch that you don't
Yellow mustard seeds 2g 1.7% @) Add to tomato-onion mixture, and saute until burn your sp ices.
Black peppercorns Sg 4% fragrant, about 10 min.
Green cardamom seeds 4.2g 3.5% Toast in shallow pan in 170 c I 340 "F oven until
Turmeric, grated 4g 3.3% golden and aromatic, 10-15 min.
Fennel seeds 3.4g 2.8% Grind to fine powder in coffee grinder or blender.
Coriander seeds 2.4g 2%

Cumin 2.4g 2%
Cane vinegar 40g 33% 0 Combine with sauce.
Raw cane sugar 12g 10% Simmerfor45 min .
Bay leaf O.Sg 0.4%
Lime juice to taste Season sauce.
TOUGH CUT S 95
KERALA CURRY SAUCE Yields350g
Shallots, finely min ced 120g 85% CD Saute until sha ll ots are translucent and golden, abo ut
Ghee 35g 25% 10min .
Gree n Thai chili 12 g 8.5%
Garlic, fin ely grated lOg 7% 0 Add arom atics to shallot mixture, an d saute for 5 min.
Ginger, finely grated lOg 7%
Curry leaves 5g 3.5%
Bay leaf 0.5g 0.4%
Black peppercorns 14 g 10% Mix thoroughly.
Cumin seeds 4g 2.8% 0 Add to shallot-aromatics mixture, and saute until
Green cardamom seeds 3g 2% frag rant, abo ut 3 min .
Star anise 1.4 g 1% Toast in sha ll ow pan in 170 c I 340 F oven until
golden and aro matic, 10- 15 min.
Cinnamon stick lg 0.7%
Grind to fine powder in coffee grind e r or blender.
Whole cloves lg 0.7%
Coconut milk 140 g 100% 0 Add to shallot mi xture, a nd simm e rfor45 min .
Salt to taste Season sauce.
Cool a nd refri ge rat~.
Curries are by no means exclusive

to lnd1a . Southeast As ia has its
yellow, green, and red curries;
there are adaptations from Iran to
Britain to japan. But they all share
the basics: meat, seafood, or just
loads of flavorfu l vegetab les in a
fragrant, spicy sauce, usua lly served
Kerala Curry with Crispy Okra and with rice.
Green Papaya Pickle
96 VO LU ME 5 PL ATEO DI SH RECIP ES
20
GREEN PAPAYA PICKLE Yields350g
Papaya (se miripe), 225 g 90% CD julienne and reserve.

peeled
Cane vinegar 250 g 100% 0 Reserve 150 g of vi negar.
Red onions, finely minced 75 g 30% Comb in e 100 g of vinegar with remaining ingredients,
Black mustard seeds 25 g 10% and grind to coarse paste.
Garlic, finely minced 8g 3%
Ginger, finely min ced 8g 3%
Bird's eye chili, 1.5g 0.50%
finely minced
Neutral oil 20g 8% @) Fry paste over medium heat, stirring constantly, until
aromati c but not co lored, about10 min.
Sugar 40g 16% Add to cooked paste w ith reserved 150 g of vinegar.
Green chili pepper, 5g 2% Fold julienned papaya into wa rm paste.
minced 0 Simmerfor2 min.
Salt 5g 2% Coo l comp lete ly, vac uum sea l, and refrige rate.
Turmeric (fresh), grated 4.5 g 1.8%
CRISPY OKRA Yields120g
Okra, cut in half 100g 100% CD Combi ne, and let marinate for 5 min .
lengthwise 0 Strain and refrigerate.
Lim e juice 2g 2%
Salt 2g 2%
Chili powder 1g 1%
Chickpea flour 35g 35% Measure and reserve individu ally.
RAW OKRA Yields80g
Okra, sliced into thin 50g 100% CD Arrange on papertowel - lined tray, and refrigerate.
round s
Red onion, fin ely min ced 20 g 40% 0 Measure and reserve individually.
Chaat masa la 2g 4%
see next page
Salt to taste
TOUG H CU T S 97
MASALA CURRY SAUCE Yields300g
Sweet onions, 200g 80% CD Saute onions until translucent and amber, about
thinly sliced 25min.
Ghee 30g 12%
Tomato puree 250g 100% 0 Add to onions, and saute for1 min.
see page 2424
Reserve warm .
Curry leaves 2.5g 1%
Coconut (fresh), grated 60g 24% @) Grind together to fine paste.
Garlic, finely grated lOg 4% Add to tomato-onion mixture, and saute for 3 min.
Ginger, finely grated lOg 4% Reserve warm.
Dried bird 's eye chili, 3.5g 1.4%
crushed
Fenugreek seeds 2.4g 1% 0 Toast in shallow pan in 170 ' C/ 340 ' F oven until
Coriander seeds 2g 0.8% golden and aromatic, 10-15 min.
Fennel seeds 2g 0.8% Grind to fine powder in coffee grinder or blender.
Stir into tomato-onion mixture.
@ Saute until aromatic.
Water 160g 64% @ Add to tomato-onion mixture.
Tamarind paste 60g 24% @ Simmer for 45 min.
see next page
Turmeric (fresh), grated 9g 3.6%

lime juice to taste @ Season sauce.
BANANA YOGURT Yields150 g
Bananas, unpeeled 500g 500% CD Cook so us vide in 88 ' C/ 190 ' F bath for12 min.
0 Peel, puree, and measure 100 g.
Centrifuge 400 g of puree at 27,500g for1 h.
@) Decant juice, and reserve 40g.
Banana puree, from above 100 g 100% Puree until smooth.
Banana juice, from above 40 g 40%
Creme fralche 30g 30%
Salt to taste Season yogurt.
0 Refrigerate.
Masala (Madras) Curry

20
TAMARIND PASTE Yields300g
INGREDIENT QUA NTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tamarind, pulp with 350g 100% 0 Vacu um seal toget her.
seeds and fib e rs 0 Cook sous vid e in 80 CI 170 Fbath fo r 30 min.
Water 125g 36% Press through fine sieve to form fine paste, and
reserve.
STUFFED SMOKY BRAISED EGGPLANT Yields450 g

Cumin seeds 5g 1.25% 0 Combine, and toast in 170 oc I 340 Foven until
Coriander seeds 4g 1% go ld en and aromatic, 10-15 min .
Black peppercorns 3.5g 0.9 % 0 Grind to fine powder.
Fennel seeds 2g 0.5%
Chili powd er 0.5g 0.13%
Toasted peanuts 100 g 25% Comb in e, and toast in sha ll ow pa n in 170 oc I 340 F
Toasted drie d coco nut 30g 7.5% oven for10-15 min or until go ld e n and aromatic.
@) Gri nd to coa rse powder.
Cane vinegar 20g 5% Add sp ice powder, coco nu t-pea nut powder, and
Raw cane sugar 16g 4% remaining ingredi ents to ghee.
Ghee 15g 3.75%
lim e juice 8g 2%
Black onion seeds 2g 0.5%
Salt to taste Season sauce.
0 Refrigerate until needed.
Tomatoes, bla nched, 250g 62.5% Puree, and strain through fine sieve.
peeled, a nd seeded
Tamarind paste, 60g 15% Comb ine with tomato puree.
from a bove @ Bring to boil, and simme r for 45 min to make eggp lant
Water 50g 12.5% stuffing.
Garlic, mashed 5g 1.25%
Ginger, juice 5g 1.25%
Salt to taste @ Season stuffing.
@ Cool and refrigerate.
Indian eggp lants 400g 100% @ Cut lid from stem end of each eggp lant.
four small @ Remove flesh , leaving wall of fl es h and skin,
0.5 em I ',4 in th ick.
@ Fill hollowed eggplants with stuffing, and cover with
stem-end li d.
@ Place stuffed eggp lants upright on sauce base, and
simmer, basting frequent ly until te nd e r, abo ut
30m in .
Cool and refrige rate.
TOUG H CUT S 99
20
SUNDAY PORK BEL LY
Applesauce terrine, crispy corn pudding, red wine cabbage, red-eye gravy
In this Modernist interpretation of a classic dish, a block of gelled people prefer to the cured, ham-like flavors ofbrined pork.
applesauce is grilled, caramelizing the sugars. Corn pudding is fried Red-eye gravy, also known as "poor man's gravy," gets a subtle
like a New Orleans beignet. update. It's made from panfried ham drippings, and the pan de-
The brine for the pork belly includes curing nitrites that height- glazed with coffee; maple syrup adds a distinctive flavor imported
en flavor and prevent the myoglobin in the meat from oxidizing from the North. And salt makes it a little less bitter. That's right: salt
and turning the pork gray as it cooks. The result is similar to masks bitterness better than sugar. Scientists are not sure whether
unsmoked bacon. You can also prepare the recipe with a plain salt salt neutralizes taste receptors or signals a change to the brain, but
brine, or without any brine for interesting variations, which some the effect is pronounced and helps balance the flavor of this gravy.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, juicerj pressure cooker
OPT IONAL EQU IPMENT: freeze dryer
TIME REQUIRED: 80 d overall, including 10 h preparation, and 25 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO

Freeze-dried Corn Smin 36 h
Pink Brine 3min 480g
see page 3-168
Sous Vide Pork Belly Smin S d and 40 h 20min 600g
Brown Pork Stock 1Smin 3 h SOOg

see page 2296
Red-eye Gravy 1Smin 1h Smin 70g
Hot Applesauce Terrine 1Smin 2h. Smin
Crispy Corn Pudding 10min 45 min and 4 h 10min 160 g (eight pieces,
20 g each)
Red Wine Cabbage 10min 20min 2min 300g
GARNISH
Green apple, thin slices 12
Small mustard leaves 12
(unattended times)
TOUGH CUT S 101

ASSEMBLY:
Reheat pork belly portions in 62 oc I 144 op bath, about 15 min. Warm in a 70 oc I 158 op oven for 5 min.
Preheat frying oil for corn pudding to 190 oc I 375 F. Warm cabbage, and fold in remaining ingredients.
Bring gravy to simmer, and taste for seasoning.
While pork belly is reheating:
Arrange one portion of pork belly on each plate.
Sear pork belly portions, fat side only, until golden, about 2 min.
Garnish with one spoonful of cabbage, two pieces of crispy corn
Deep-fry corn pudding until golden, about 1 min. Drain on paper
pudding, one piece of apple terrine, and green apple slices and
towels.
mustard leaves.
Cut applesauce terrine into cubes.
Spoon gravy over meat at table.
Brush terrine cubes with clarified butter. Warm in a 70 oc I 158 op
oven for 5 min.
SOUS VIDE PORK BELLY Yields 1.6 kg
Whole pork belly, on bone 2.4 kg 100% CD Inj ect brine equa l to 10% of pork belly weight.
We use a pink brine to slightly cure Pink brine 480g 10% 0 Vacuum seal in remaining brine for 3d.
the pork belly. The recipe is also see page 3173
Drain brine from bag, and reseal pork belly.
excellent with a si mple salt brine,
@) Refrigerate for 2 d before cooking to diffuse salt
however, and you ca n even omit
through meat.
the step a ltogether. Uncured meat
will not stay pink and will taste Remove meat from bag, and drain.
q uite different than cured meat, but Water 800g 33% Vacuum seal pork belly with water.
it is still very good. For more on 0 Cook so us vide in 62 oc I 144 F bath for 40 h.
brining strategies, see page 3168.
Ch ill in ice-water bath until firm.
Remove belly from bag, and discard ge ll ed cooking
juices.
@ Carve belly from ribs, and remove skin. Discard bones
and skin .
@ Portion belly into square blocks of 150 g each.
@ Vacuum sea l each portion individually.
@ Refrigerate.
Frying oi l as needed @ Reserve.
RED-EYE GRAVY Yields 75 g
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 80 g 16% CD Saute onions until go ld en and tender, about 15 min.
For more on rendering fat. see page 3-145. Rendered pork fat 30 g 6%
Star a nise 0.2g 0.04% 0 Add to on ions.
Continue cooking over lower heat until onions are
dark amber and star an ise is fragrant.
Brown pork stock 500g 100% @) Deglaze.
see page 2296
Reduce to 75 g, and remove gravy from heat.
Maple syrup (grade B) 15g 3%
Coffee beans 25g 5% Add to gravy, and cover.
0 Infuse for 5 min.
Strain, discarding coffee beans.
Microcrystalline cellulose 0.2 g 0.04% Blend into gravy to thicken.
(Avice! CC-200, FMC (0.27%)*
Biopolymer brand)
Smoked salt to taste @ Season, and refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weight after reduction)
102 VOLU ME 5 PLATED DI SH RE CIPE S

20
HOT APPLESAUCE TERRINE Yields600g

Ambrosia apples, peeled 200g 100% (!) Vacuum seal.
and cored 0 Cook so us vide in 85 oc / 185 F bath for 2 h.
Puree until smooth, and reserve.
Honeycrisp apple juice, 350g 175% 0 Reduce to 200 g, and cool.
clarified (from 700 g
apples)
Reduced apple juice, 200g 100% Disperse agar, locust bean gum, and sorbitol into
from above cooled juice reduction.
Sorbitol 12g 6%
(3%)*
Agar 2.4g 1.2%
(0.6%)*
locust bean gum 1g 0.5%
(Tic Gums brand) {0.25%)*
Spray-dried apple 40g 20% Blend reduction mixture with cooked apple to fine
crystals,optional, puree.
(Obipektin brand)
0 Pass through fine sieve.
Fructose 15 g 7.5% Heat mixture to 95 oc / 203 F, and hold at 3 min to
Malic acid 8g 4% fully hydrate.
Cast in mold in layer1 em I :Y. in thick.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 20 min.
Clarified unsalted butter as needed @ Refrigerate. For more on clarifying butter, see page 4213.
*(% oftotal weight ofapple puree and reduced apple juice)
TOUGH CUTS 103

CRISPY CORN PUDDING Yields780g
For the popcorn puree:

Whole milk 800g 355% 0 Bring to a boil, and remove from heat.
Popped corn 140g 62% 0 Cover, and steep corn for 30 min.
Puree.
Cool.
Measure 350 g of popcorn puree.
For the corn pudding:
Frozen white corn, thawed 225g 100% 0 Saute until lightly gold en.
Unsalted butter 20g 9% Cool.
Popcorn puree, cold, 350g 155% Disperse gelatin in popcorn puree.
from above @ Bring to a simmer to dissolve.
160 Bloom gelatin 20g 9% @ Remove from heat, and cool.
(5.7%)*
Heavy cream 100g 44.5% @ Blend until smooth with sauteed white corn and
Egg yolks 36g 16% ge ll ed puree.
Maple syrup (grade B) 34g 15% @ Pass through fine sieve .
Salt 7g 3% @ Cast in mold in layer 2.5 em I 1 in thick.
Cayenne pepper 3g 1.5% @ Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
Thyme essential oil 0.01g 0.004% @ Cut into cubes.
For the corn pudding crust:

Freeze-dried corn 200g 89% Combine to make breading, and reserve.
see page 3366
Panko 200g 89%
All-purpose bleached flour 100 g 44.5% @ Combine.
Ultra-Crisp SOg 22% Dredge co rn cubes in starch blend until evenly
(National Starch brand) coated.
Eggs, whisked 125 g 56% @ Dip cubes in eggs, and finish by coating with
reserved breading. Refrigerate.
*(% of weight ofpopcorn puree)
Crispy corn pudding hides its own sauce

on the inside.
104 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DI SH RE CIPE S

20
RED WINE CABBAGE Yields375g

Red cabbage leaves 100g 100% CD Vacuum sea l.
0 Blanch so us vide in 90 "C / 194 "F bath for4 min.
Cool in ice-water bath, and remove from bag
imm ed iate ly.
0 Trim off and discard large r rib s; julienne leaves finely.
Reserve.
Red wine (d ry) 200g 200% Combine, and reduce to 200 g.
Red cabbage juice 180g 180% 0 Add julienned cabbage leaves, and finish cook ing
(from about 300 g through, abo ut1 min .
cabbage)
Pin eap ple juice (fresh) 65g 65%
(from about 100 g
pineapple)
For more on juicing strategies, see page 2-338.
Red wine vinegar 50g 50%
Red onion juice 40g 40%
(from 100 g
onions)
Lime juice 1.2g 1.2% Season cabbage mixture, and reserve.
Salt to taste
Unsalted butter 40g 40% Measure and reserve individually.
Pineapple, small di ce 35g 35%
and coarsely crushed
lime zest, finel y grated 0.5g 0.5%
TOUGH CU T S 10 5
The silkie chicken has feathers as
white as snow, but its skin and feet
are pitch black.
PLATED-DISH RECIPES
21
FOIE GRAS A LA VAPEUR 109
CRISPY HAY-SMOKED CHICKEN 113
DUCK APICIUS 121
PIGEON EN SALMIS 125
GUINEA HEN TAGINE 135
POULTRY 107
21
FOIE GRAS A LA VAPEUR
Napa cabbage, green walnuts, Muscat grapes, and vanilla
INSPIRED BY ALAIN SENDERENS
In its day, L'Archestrate may have been the most controversial Chef Senderens played an integral role in popularizing the
three-star restaurant in Paris. Critics in the early 1980s insisted that highly subjective art of pairing wine with food: le mariage des vins et
chef Alain Senderens's cuisine was too Chinese, too fussy, too des mets. In his own words, the unctuous foie gras should be matched
unfamiliar. Simply put, L'Archestrate was a revolutionary restaurant. with an intense, sweet, and aromatic wine to balance the richness of
One oft-copied dish Senderens pioneered was steamed foie gras the dish. An acidic, mineral wine accentuates the bitterness of the
wrapped in Savoy cabbage. The cabbage acted as a natural sous vide liver. In this recipe, we season the duck broth with a dry white port,
bag for the foie gras, ensuring that it cooked evenly in a moist envi- vanilla, and fresh bay laurel to evoke the sweetness and complexity
ronment at a relatively low temperature. of a Sauternes without actually introducing any sugar.

SPE C IA L EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, pressure cooker_, blowtorch
TIME REQUIRED: 40 h overall, including 1 h preparation and 40 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
White Duck Stock 20min l !h h* 200g
see page 2301
Sous Vide Foie Gras 2min 35 min* 400g
Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf 10min 2 h* 1 min 120g
Compressed Muscat Grapes 10min 1 min 80g
Braised Napa Cabbage Smin 3min 120g
Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel 2min lOmin 40g
GARNISH
Green walnuts, shaved SOg
Sichuan peppercorns, crushed 8g

*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Cook foie gras so us vide directly from freezer in 53 c I 127 p bath Arrange cabbage in middle of each plate, and place foie gras slices
to core temperature of 52 c I 126 p, about 35 min. on top.
While foie gras is cooking: Garnish with compressed grapes, shaved walnuts, and Sichuan
Warm duck broth, and check seasoning. peppercorns.
Saute cabbage in foie gras fat, and season. Grate walnut vinegar gel over foie gras.
Sear cooked foie gras portions with blowtorch. Pour broth at table.
Cut each portion into slices 1 em I 3/s in thick.
POULTRY 1 09
SOUS VIDE FOIE GRAS Yields400g
For more on the science of foie gras. see page Flash-frozen foie gras, 400g 100% 0 Vacuum sea l portions individually.
3-136. For other methods of hot foie gras presliced, 2.5 em I 1 in (four100 g 0 Rese rve in freezer until needed.
preparation. see page 3-146. portions)
DUCK BROTH WITH VANILLA AND BAY LEAF YieldsSOOg

We do not recommend venting the
pressure cooker fo r this recipe. Duck meat, finely ground 400g 400% 0 Brown together lightly in pressure cooker,
Although the stock will cook at a Duck wings, chopped 100g 100% about10 min .
lower tempe rature, venting Duck fat 30g 30%
evaporates many vo latile aromas
Shallots, thinly sliced 125g 125% 0 Add to duck parts, and cook until translucent.
that are needed for a ba lanced
flavor, as discussed further on leeks, thinly sliced 75g 75%
page2291. White port (dry) 150g 150% Add to duck parts, and reduce to 225 g.
White wine 150g 150%
Water 700g 700% @) Add to pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge
Vanilla bean seeds 1.5 g 1.5% pressure of1 bar / 15 psi for1Y2 h.
Bay leaf 0 .5g 0.5% Strain through fine sieve .
lime juice to taste Season broth.

Salt to taste 0 Refrigerate.
COMPRESSED MUSCAT GRAPES Yields100 g
Muscat grapes 100g 100% 0 Blanch in boiling water for 20-45 s. Riper grapes
require less time.
0 Shock in ice-water bath, then peel and reserve .
For more on juice clarification strategies. Grape juice, clarified 100g 100% Mix together.
see page 2-351. Verjuice (store-bought) 60g 60% @) Taste for seasoning balance.
Fructose 12 g 12% Vacuum seal with peeled grapes to compress.
Malic acid 1.3g 1.3% Refrigerate.
Salt to taste

21
BRAISED NAPA CABBAGE Yields250g

Napa cabbage, ribs 250g 100% CD Measure and reserve ind ividually for service. For more on strategies for rendering fat, see
removed a nd julienne page 3-145.
Re nde red foie gras fat 25g 10%
Salt to taste
SPICED WALNUT VINEGAR GEL Yields200g

White duck stock, cold 200g 100% CD Disperse agar in stock.
see page 2301
Agar 6g 3%
Salt 6g 3% 0 Whisk into stock mixture until dissolved.
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 1g 0.5%
Sugar 1g 0.5%
Black peppercorns, 3g 1.5% Add to stock mixture.
toasted and cracked
0 Boil for 3 min to hydrate agar.
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 1% Strain thorough fine sieve directly into hemisphere
and crushed
non stick mold .
Sichuan peppercorns, 1.5 g 0.75% Refrigerate until set.
toasted and crushed
POULTR Y 111
21
CRISPY HAY-SMOKED CHICKEN
Pickled ramps,fiddleheads, sticky rice, vin jaune
Smoking is a wonderful way to prepare food, but it has a real draw- the skin separately to be incredibly crisp, then to affix it back on the
back when used with chicken. Compounds in the smoke act on the bird by using Activa. The chicken is slow-roasted, then bathed in
skin and effectively tan it to a tough, leathery consistency. It may liquid nitrogen, and finally deep-fried to crisp the skin without
look beautiful, but often it isn't very good to eat. Here we combat overcooking the meat. Although this dish may seem the least
that problem in two ways. First, we do a very light application of Modernist in appearance of all those in this book, the recipe employs
smoke, by using hay, which burns so quickly that it perfumes the several Modernist tricks behind the scenes to get a result that you'd
bird with a very light, smoky aroma but doesn't cook the chicken in be hard-pressed to achieve other ways. For simpler ways to make a
the process. Our second-and more important-trick is to prepare crisp roast chicken, see pages 2-109 and 2-178.
YI ELD: Jour portions

SPECIAL EQU IPMENT: gas blowtorch, pressure cooker, so us vide equipment
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: combi oven, Pacojet, liquid nitrogen
TIME REQU I RED: 16 h overall, including 5 h preparation and 1 h to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Ultracrisp Skin 11h h 14 h* 280g
see page 3134
Foie Gras Parfait 30 min and 5 h* 20 min and 3 h* 100 g

see page 267
Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown lOmin 12 h* and 30 min 1 kg
Pickled Ramps 10min 12 h* 80g
Steamed Sticky Rice 5min 12 h* 35 min* 160 g
Crisp Chicken Crown 15min 51-2 h* 1 h40min* 500 g (carved)

and 10min
Sauce VinJaune 15min 2 h* 3min 140 g
Brown Chicken Stock 1h 1!-2 h* 650g

see page 2296
White Chicken Stock 20min 11-2 h* 100 g

see page 2301
Stuffed Morels 1h 8min 250g
Stir-fried Fiddlehead Ferns lOmin 3min 125 g
*(unattended times)
POULTRY 113
ASSEMBLY:
Cook chicken crown in combi oven at 0% humidity and 65 c I Cryosear chicken crown by dipping in liquid nitrogen for 45 s,
150 p until core temperature reaches 60 c I 140 F, about 2 h preferably with wire hook (see page 3-134).
depending on the size of the chicken. If using a CVap oven, set the Deep-fry in hot oil for 45 s. Repeat process until golden and very
Browning level to 4 and Doneness as above. crisp, about three cycles.
Lower temperature to 60 c I 140 p, and hold for 1 h. Warm sauce vin jaune, and verify seasoning.
Heat peanut oil for frying crown to 200 c I 390 p, Stir-fry fiddleheads in very hot oil for 2 min, moving them con-
Drain pickled ramps, and slice into quarters. stantly to ensure blistering without burning. Douse with stock or
water, a little at a time, until cooked through. Add garnishes and
While chicken is in oven:
continue stir-frying for 20 s. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange
Steam sticky rice for 30 min. Allow to rest, uncovered, for 5 min.
fiddleheads on each plate.
Warm coconut milk mixture, and fold into cooked rice.
Slice breasts from crown, and cut into slices 1 em I 3/s in thick.
While rice is cooking: Arrange on top of fiddleheads.
Brush stuffed morels with butter. Garnish with morels and pickled ramps.
Cook in frying pan over medium-low heat for about 8 min. Roll Serve sauce vin jaune and steamed sticky rice on side.
morels over gently every 2 min to ensure even cooking. Season.
HAY-SMOKE D CHICKEN CROWN Yieldsl kg
Whole chicken 1 kg 100% 0 Remove legs and wings.

0 Cut through ribs to remove bone-in crown, and
reserve crown.
Reserve carcass, legs, and wings for sauce vin jaune.
Water 400g 40% @) Combine to make brine.
Salt 28 g 2.8% Immerse crown in brine.
Thyme 2g 0.2% Refrigerate for12 h.
0 Drain, and rinse crown.
Yellow sweet meadow lOOg 10% Lay hay in bottom of hotel pan.
hayorstraw Place crown in center of hay, and cover with more hay.
@ Ignite hay with blowtorch until burning.
@ Cover with anoth er pan, and let smolderfo r 10 min.
@ Remove crown from hay, and cool completely.
@ Peel away sk in, and discard.
@ Refrigerate smoked crown.
9 10
21
11 12
13
POULTRY 115
CRISP CHICKEN CROWN Yields 1.25 kg
Ultracrisp skin 280g 28% CD Dust Activa even ly over skin.

see page 3134
Activa RM or GS 3g 0.3%
Hay-smoked chicken 1 kg 100% 0 Place skin over chicken crown, and tuck in all edges.
crown, from above (or 0 Vacuum seal, and leave at room temperature for
unsmoked chicken crown) 30 min to ensure all air pockets between sk in and
meat are removed.
0 Remove from bag, and refrigerate for at least 5 h
before serving to ensure Activa enzyme has bonded
and skin is dry.
Liquid nitrogen as needed Reserve individually for use during assemb ly.
SAUCE VIN JAUNE Yields200g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING* PROCEDURE
Chicken legs and wings, 400g 200% CD Saute in pressure cooker until golden.
from above, cut into 0 Drain w ings, and reserve.
3 em / 11}. in pieces
Clarified unsalted butter 75g 37.5%
Leeks, white part only, lOOg 50% 0 Cook together until vegetables are tender, about
thinly sliced 30m in.
Carrot, peeled and thinly SOg 25%
sliced
Chicken carcass, from SOg 25%
above, chopped and
blanched
Shallot, thinly sliced SOg 25%
Brown chicken stock 450g 225% 0 Combine with browned wings and cooked vegetables
see page 2296 in pressure cooker.
Thyme Sg 2.5% Cook at a gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for 1Y2 h.
Bay leaf 2g 1% Cool.
0 Strain stock through fine sieve, and set as id e.
Vin jaune dujura 120 g 60% Reduce to 30 g, about 12 min.
(or Fino sherry) Add strained stock.
@ Reduce mixture to 200 g.
@ Cool.
Chicken stock reduction, 200 g 100% @ Disperse PGA into stock reduction .
from above @ Bring to simm er to fully hydrate.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.4 g 0.2% @ Blend fat into stock reduction until fully emulsified.
(Protanal Ester BV4830,
FMC BioPolymer brand)
For more on strategies for rendering fat. see Rendered chicken fat 40g 20%
pageJ-145. Lemon juice to taste @ Season, coo l, and refrigerate.
Salt to taste
*( % oftotal weight ofstock reduction)

21
STUFFED MORELS Yields250g

Water 100g 100% CD Bring water to a boi l, and pour over morels.
Morels (dried) 20g 20% 0 Soak at room temperature for 30 min to hydrate.
Squeeze dry, reserving released water.
@) Strain soak ing water, and reserve.
Mince morels finely, and reserve.
Brown chicken stock 200g 400% Combine with soaking water from above.
see page 2296
0 Reduce to 40 g to create glaze, about 15 min.
Fino sherry 150 g 150%
White port (dry) 100 g 100%
Heavy cream 20g 20%
Lime juice to taste Season glaze.
Salt to taste
Foie gras parfait 100 g 100% Blend until smooth.
see page267
@ Fold in seasoned glaze and reserved,
Egg whites 30g 30% hydrated morels.
Thyme 0.5g 0.5% @ Transfer mixture to piping bag.
Morels (fresh) 100g 100% @ Stuff with morel mixture.
@ Refrigerate.
Clarified unsalted butter as needed @ Reserve individually.
see page 4213
Sa lt to taste
POU LT RY 11 7
PICKLED RAMPS Yields450g
Water 200g 100% 0 Combine and bring to a simmer.

White wine vinegar 200g 100%
Sugar BOg 40%
Ramps are ava ilable fo r o nly a Salt 12g 6%
short time in the spring. Other
Yellow mustard seeds 3g 1.5%
yo ung te nder alliums, such as baby
leeks, spring o nions, pearl o nions, Black peppercorns 2.5g 1.25%
o r green o nions, make good Coriander seeds 1.5 g 0. 75%
substitutes. Bay leaf 0.5g 0.25%
Ramp bulbs, cleaned 450g 225% 0 Pour warm brine over bulbs.
Cool mixture.
@) Vacuum seal.
Refrigerate for at least 12 h.
118 VO LUME 5 PL ATED DI SH RECIP ES

21
STIR-FRIED FIDDLEHEAD FERNS Yields155 g

Fiddlehead ferns 120g 100% CD Measure and reserve individua lly. As with ramps, the avai lability of
White chicken stock 40g 33% fiddlehead fe rns is extremely
or water seasonal. Asparagus, green beans,
see page 2301 a nd wax beans a re just as delicious
Alsatian bacon, 20g 16.7% in this recipe .
small dice
Frying oil 20g 16.7%
Scallions, lOg 8.3%
fine julienne
Garlic, germ removed 6g 5%
and finely minced
Black peppercorns, 2.5g 2%
coarsely ground
Salt to taste
STEAMED STICKY RICE Yields150g

White chicken stock 60g 100% CD Ha nd-bl en d.
or water
see page 2301
0 Refrigerate .
Coconut milk 40g 67%
Clarified unsalted butter, 12g 20%
warmed
Salt 2g 3.5%
Water 480g 800% Combine.
Sticky rice 60g 100% @) Soak ri ce in refrigerato rfor12 h.
Drain.
Spread rice on cheesecloth-lined pe rforated tray.
0 Refrigerate.
POULTR Y 119
21
DUCK APICIUS
Quince jelly, spiced honey glass, saffron turnip, pomegranate jus
Duck Apicius pays homage to the French chef Alain Senderens who, Garum, made by fermenting salted mackerel and filtering the
in turn, took inspiration for his famous Canard Apicius from De re resulting liquid, was favored by the rich. Tuna yielded muria, a
coquinaria, named for the 4th-century Roman gourmet Apicius (see similar concoction for the slightly less wealthy. Liquamen was the
page 110). The duck here is accompanied by a jus combining pome- poor man's sauce, made from the blood and guts of whatever fish
granate and garum (fish sauce). In Roman times, this condiment of people happened to be throwing away. The pungent aromas and
choice was a savory liquid containing myriad taste-enhancing amino savory tastes of bagoong from the Philippines and nam pla from
acids and umami compounds. Thailand make them the closest modern kin to garum. Either of
It came in a variety of forms, some more expensive than others. them can be used in its place in this recipe.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: refractometer} pH meter} pressure cooker} sous vide equipment
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: Thermo mix
TIME TO
Brown Duck Stock 30min H2h* 3min 200g

see page 2296
Pomegranate and GarumJus 1Smin 3min 1Smin 120 g
Date Puree 10min 2 h* 100 g
Quince Jelly 10min l !h h* Smin 100 g

see page 4167
Spiced Honey Glass 30min 7min four rectangles
Braised Turnips with Saffron Smin 35 min* Smin 2S0g
Duck Breast, optionally cryorendered and cryoseared 1h 30min 500g

see page 3124 (about two breasts)
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Cook duck breasts sous vide in 56 c I 133 p bath to core tempera- Cryosear duck breasts (see page 3124), or sear breasts, skin side
ture of 55 c I 131 p, about 25 min. down, on griddle until skin is crisp, about 4 min.
While duck breasts are cooking:
Cut breasts in slices 1 em I 3/s in thick.
Reheat sealed turnips in 70 c I 158 p bath. Garnish each heated plate with turnips, date puree, and jelly.
Reheat date puree and jus. Arrange slices of crisped duck breast on each plate.
Remove breasts from bag, and pat dry. Allow to rest for 10 min in Finish with jus and spiced honey glass.
a warm, dry place.
While duck breasts are resting:

Warm quince jelly in 70 c I 160 p oven until just heated through,
aboutS min.
POULTR Y 121
POMEGRANATE AND GARUM JUS Yields550 g
Pomegranate seeds 300 g 150 % CD Vacuum sea l, th en cru sh w ith rollin g pin .
We prefer a final pH of 4.5 for 0 Strain through fine sieve, and reserve.
the jus.
Brown duck stock 200g 100% Mix into juice.
see page 2296 @) Bring to a boil.
Pomegranate juice, 34g 17%
Cool.
from above
Carum (or fish sauce) 20g 10%
Malt vinegar as needed @ Add vinegar to adjust pH to taste.
Ultra-S perse 3 4.8g 2.4% 0 Blend in to thicken.

(National Starch brand) Refrige rate .
DATE PUREE Yields400g
Dates, pitted 300 g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.

Water 90g 30% 0 Cook so us vide in 80 c I 176 "F bath for 2 h.
Ginger juice 9g 3% Blend fully.
Salt 1.2g 0.4% @) Press through fin e sieve.
Black pepper, 1g 0 .3% Di sca rd pulp, and refrigerate puree.

finely ground
Cardamom pods 0 .2g 0.1%
Juicing pomegranate seeds (more

accurately, the arils that surround the
seeds) can be a messy affair. To simplify
the process, seal the seeds in a sous vide
bag, then crush them with a rolling pin.
This technique avoids breaking the bitter
seeds and speeds cleanup.

21
Making paper-thin, crisp sugar glass is

easy if you first make a hard caramel from
the sugar. You can then break up the
SPICED HONEY GLASS Yields365 g caramel and grind the pieces to a fine
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE powder. Any garnish, such as crushed
spices, can be added on top of the sifted
Honey, spray-dried 1BOg 100% <D Heat together to 160 oc I 320 F, stirring constantly. powder before remelting it in the oven. As
store-bought
0 Pour onto 27.5 em by40 em 1 11 in by16 in sil icone mat, long as the delicate glass is warm enough
Trehalose (or sugar) 180g 100% and coo l until hardened. to be pliable, it can be cut into pieces.
Water 45g 25% Break glass into shards, and grind to fine powder.
@) Pass powder through fine sieve onto baking sheet lined
Many sugars form crispy glasses
with si licone mat, forming layer1.5 mm IY,. in thick.
easily, but honey is not one of
Coriander seeds, toasted 4 g 2% Crush sp ices together to make coarse powder. them. Honey contains fructose,
Use fine sieve to remove fine particles. which is very hygroscopic (see
0 Sprinkle coa rs e particl es evenly over suga r powder. page 2428). Indeed, this is why
honey doesn't dry out. We com-
Sichuan peppercorns 2.5 g 1.5% Bake in 150 oc I 300 Foven until complete ly melted,
bine spray-dried honey with the
about6 min.
Fennel seeds 2g 1% nonsweet sugar trehalose to
Cut into 2.5 em by 7.5 em 1 1 in by 3 in pieces while still hot overcome the problem. Store the
Black pepper, coarsely 1.5 g 0 .8%
and pliable. honey glass in an airtight container
ground
along with packets of silica gel to
prevent it from absorbing moisture.
BRAISED TURNIPS WITH SAFFRON Yields200 g

Turnips, peeled and cut 250 g 100% <D Vacuum seal toge ther.
to slices 5 mm I \4 in thick
0 Cook so us v ide in 85 oc 1 185 F bath for 35 min.
Refrigerate in bag.
Water lOOg 40%
Saffron threads 2g 0.8%

Salt 2g 0.8%
POULT RY 123
21
PIGEON EN SALMIS
Blood pudding, brioche, grain ragout, celery root
For most of history, it has been important economically to use up We deconstructed the classic salmis with pigeon, making it a
leftovers, especially when they were splendid and expensive. In the three-course exercise in frugality, with luxe touches. Here, the jus
19th century, Victorians prized their costly game birds. Charles and blood become a custard of boudin nair, or blood sausage, infused
Dickens wrote that one gluttonous English lord so loved them, he into day-old brioche, which is revived as pain perdu, a French toast.
was metaphorically "pelted constantly with roast partridges, which The second course is tender, sauteed offal on a ragout of wild grains,
he caught in his ravening jaws just as a French poodle would maca- like those a partridge might eat. Third comes breast meat, sliced and
roons." You certainly couldn't let the lovely cold birds go to waste. So flavored with a magnificent farce royale ofleg meat, then bathed in a
cooks went to work making a salmis: leftover meat in a rich, winey warm, oat jus made with wine and bits of carcass meat. As in Dick-
broth, served over pieces of day-old bread pan fried in butter. ens's day, little of the bird is left unused.

SPE CIA L EQUIPME NT: Pacojet, pressure cooker, so us vide equipment
TIME REQUIRED : 13 h overall, including 3 h preparation and 1~ h to cook and finish
TIME TO
FIRST COURSE
Quatre Epices Smin 4g
see page 2403
Boudin Noir Custard Smin 10 min and 1 h* SOOg
Boudin Noir Bread Pudding lOmin 200g
Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache lOmin 20 min and 1 h* 3min 40g
Maple Vinegar Gastrique 3min
Puffed Oats 30s 40g

see page 4302
Candied Puffed Oats lOmin 40g
SECOND COURSE
Ragout of Grains Smin 12 h* and 21;4 h 12min 280g
Brown Chicken Jus lSmin 2h* 2Sg

see page 2344
Sous Vide Pigeon Offal Smin 12 h* 12min 120g
White Chicken Stock lOmin 1!12 h* 150 g

see page 2301
Madeira Gelee Smin 20min 40g
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes lOmin 40g
POULTRY 12 5
TIME TO
THIRD COURSE
Brown Pigeon Stock !Sin 1!12 h. 950g

see page 2-296
Farce Royale 2Smin 200g
Roast Pigeon Crown 20in 4h. lh 450g
Toasted Oat Jus lSmin 2h35 min 2min 80g
Pickled Celery Root lOmin 40g
Celery Root Mousseline Smin 35 min 2min 100 g

see page 2-427
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
FIRST COURSE Meanwhile:
Heat oil to 175 c I 350 p, Reheat kidneys and gizzards sous vide in 55 c I 131 p bath for
Dust bread pudding with trehalose on all sides. 10 min. Brown kidneys gently in neutral oil to achieve golden crust.
Deep-fry bread pudding for 3 min. Slice browned kidneys in half lengthwise and gizzards thinly.
Heat reserved glucose syrup in nonstick saute pan over medium- Season with salt.
high heat while pudding is frying. Brown hearts on all sides in duck fat for 2 min. Season with salt.
Remove pudding from oil, and pat dry with paper towels. Immedi- Arrange kidneys, gizzards, hearts, Madeira gelee cubes, and Jerusa-
ately transfer to saute pan, and coat with hot glucose syrup. lem artichokes on top of grain ragout.
Cook, flipping constantly, until golden shell forms on all sides, Shave wild mushrooms over dish with fine truffle slicer or
about 3 min. mandolin.
Transfer to nonstick surface, and allow to cool until shell hardens, THIRD COURSE
about! min. Sear prepared pigeon crown in dry, hot nonstick pan, rotating and
While shell on bread pudding is hardening: applying pressure to brown evenly, about 5 min.
Pacotize foie gras ganache once. Brush with duck fat, and season with salt.
Make small quenelles of ganache. Bake in 65 c I 150 p oven for 40 min.
Place piece of bread pudding in center of each plate. While pigeon is in oven:
Garnish with one quenelle of ganache and puffed oats. Warm celery root mousseline and oats jus. Check seasoning
Spoon gastrique onto each plate. for both.
SECOND COURSE Allow pigeon to rest for 15 min at room temperature.
Saute mushrooms in duck fat until light golden and tender, about While pigeon is resting:
10 min. Spoon celery mousseline onto plates.
Add grains, and cook through. Carve breasts off crown, and cut into slices 1 em I 3;8 in thick.
Finish with foie gras butter, mushroom stock, and pigeon glaze; Lay over mousseline.
season with salt and lemon juice. Garnish with pickled celery root.
Spoon onto each plate. Dress with warm oat jus.
12 6 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

21
FIRST COURSE
BOUDIN NOIR CUSTARD Yields950g
Yellow onions, 100g 22% CD Saute until translucent.

thinly sliced @ Coo l.
Rendered bacon fat 20g 4.4%
Whole milk, cold 200g 44% Disperse ge latin into cold milk. For more on the steps involved in proper
160 Bloom gelatin 19g 4.2% @) Warm until gelatin is fully dissolved. dispersion and hydration of gelatin, see page
Heavy cream 450g 100% Comb in e with cooked onions and milk mixture. 4124. For more on strategies for clarifying juice,
see page 2-352.
Egg yolks 80g 18% Blend until smooth.
Pigeon blood, fresh 60g 13% 0 Strain through fine sieve.
Salt 14 g 3% Vacuum seal.
Dutch-processed cocoa 4g 0 .9% Cook so us vide in 70 c I 158 F bath for 1 h.
powder
@ Coo l in ice-water bath.
Quatre epices 4g 0 .9%
@ Refrigerate.
see page 2403
BOUDIN NOIR BREAD PUDDING Yields 1 kg
Day-old brioche, 500 g 100% CD Cut into slices 2.5 em 1 1 in thick.

crust removed
0 Place slices in bottom of deep hotel pan.
Boudin noir custard, warm, 500 g 100% Pour over brioche, and place pan quickly in vacuum
from above chamber.
@) Pull full vacuum twice, turn brioche sli ces over, and
pull vacuum three more times, or as many times as
necessary for the bread to fully absorb the custard.
Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
Cut ge ll ed brioche slices into 3.75 em I 1Y, in by
5 em I 2 in rectangles .
0 Refrigerate.
Frying oil as needed Reserve individu ally.
Trehalose as needed
Glucose syrup DE 40 as needed
Salt to taste
POULTR Y 127
FOIE GRAS AND HAZELNUT GANACHE Yields 650 g
Cognac 60g 20% CD Reduce to 20 g.

Sauternes 30g 10%
Sweet onions, 100 g 33% 0 Sweat until tender without co loring, abo utlO min.
finely minced
Rendered du ck fat 15 g 5%
Raw duck foie gras 300g 100% Puree on io ns and alcohol reduction until smooth.
For more on making nut butters, see page Roasted-hazelnut butter 100g 33% @) Pass through fine sieve.
2418. Unsalted butter 50g 16.7% Freeze in Pacojet beaker, and reserve for service.
Roasted-hazelnut oil 25g 8.3%
Salt 5g 1.7%
(7%)*
lnsta Cure No.1 3.25g 1.08%
(0.7%)*
*(% oftotal weightoffoie gras, hazelnut butter, unsalted butter, and
hazelnut oil)
MAPLE VINEGAR GASTRIQUE Yields300g
Maple syrup (Grade B) 175g 175% CD Whisk together.

Sherry vinega r 100 g 100% 0 Vacuum sea l.
Cider vinegar 20g 20% Refrigerate.
We used Avice! CG200 microcrys- Microcrystalline cellulose 3 g 3%
talline cellulose, made by FMC
Biopolymer.
CANDIED PUFFED OATS Yields200 g
Honey 100 g 100% CD Co mbin e.

Trehalose 40g 40% 0 Heat to 185 c / 365 "F.
Water 20g 20%
Baking soda 0.7g 0.7% Stir into hot suga r mixture.
Puffed oats 40g 40% @) Fold into hot suga r mixture.
see page 4302
Pour onto silicone baking mat, an d all ow to set.
Cocoa nibs 9g 9%
Break into small chunks, and reserve in airtight
Salt 1g 1% co ntain er in coo l, dry place.
Quatre epices 0.2g 0.2%
see page 2403
128 VOLUME 5 PLATED - DI SH RECIPE S

21
SECOND COCRSE
RAGOUT OF GRAINS Yields280g

Button mushrooms, peeled 2 kg 2,000% <I> Coat mu shrooms in oil.
Grapeseed oil 100 g 100% 0 Roast in 175 "C I 350 "Foven until go ld e n,
about 30 min.
Water 800g 800% Add to roasted mushrooms, and simm erfor1 h.
@) Strain .
Measure and reserve 1 kg of mushroom stock,
divided into four portions, 250 g each .
Measure a nd reserve 25 g more of mu shroom stock, The grains are pressure-cooked
for use during finishing. sepa rately to give each one t he
Spelt, soaked for12 h 35 g 35% 0 Pressure-cook with 250 g mushroom stock at a optima l texture. Other grains or
gauge pressure of1 ba r 1 15 psi for12 min. nuts can be added or substituted
Drain, coo l, and refrigerate. (see page 3300).
Pearl barley, rinsed 40g 40% Pressure-cook with 250 g mushroom stock at a
gauge pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for12 min.
@ Drain, coo l, and refrigerate.
Quinoa 35g 35% @ Pressure-cook with 250 g mushroom stock at a
gauge pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi for 2 min.
@ Drain, coo l, and refrigerate.
Sprouted brown rice 35g 35% @ Pressure-cook with 250 g mushroom stock at a
gauge pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi for 6 min.
@ Strain.
@ Coo l and reserve.
Raw foie gras, brought to 20g 20% @ Drain.
room temperature
@ Pass through fine sieve, and whisk with butter to
Unsalted butter, cubed, 20g 20% make foie gras butter.
brought to room temperature
Shiitake mushrooms, lOO g 100% @ Measure and refrige rate individually.
finely minced
Shallots, finely minced 75g 75%
Seasonal wild mushrooms, 40g 40%
finely minced
Rendered duck fat 45g 45% Wi ld seasona l mushrooms such as
porcini, matsutake, or saffron milk
Brown chicken jus 25g 25%
see page 2344 cap are all exce llent choices.
Mushroom stock, 25g 25%
from above
Le mon juice to taste
Salt to taste @ Reserve.
POULTRY 129
SOUS VIDE PIGEON OFFAL Yields300 g
Pigeon hearts lOOg 100% CD Measure and reserve individually.

(four hearts,
25 g each)
Rendered duck fat SOg 50%
Cock's kidneys, gizzards, and other Cock's kidneys lOOg 100% 0 Vacuum seal.
poultry offal can often be found at (four kidneys, Cooksous vide in 70 oc / 158 Fbath for 20 min.
Asian food markets. 25 g each)
@) Cool in ice-water bath.
Refrigerate.
Pigeon gizzards, 150g 100% Vacuum sea l together.
split and peeled 0 Cook so us vide in 60 oc I 140 F bath for12 h.
Rendered duck fat SOg 33% Cool in ice-water bath.
Refrigerate.
Salt to taste
13 0 VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH REC I PES

21
MADEIRA GELEE Yields350g
Madeira wine (dry) 200g 100% CD Combine.

White chicken stock 150g 75% 0 Bring to simmer.
see page 2301
Remove from heat.
Cassia bark, toasted, 2g 1% @) Add to hot stock, and infuse for 5 min.
crushed
Strain and cool. For more on using extracts instead of whole
Salt 4g 2% Season cooled liquid. spices, see page 2288.
low-acyl gellan 2.1 g 1.05% 0 Blend into cooled liquid.
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco (0.6%)* Heat to 95 c 1 203 "F, and hold at temperature for at
brand)
least 3 min to fully hydrate.
Sodium citrate 0.7 g 0.35% Pour a layer 0 .5 em I Y.. in thick into a nonstick mold,
(0 .2%)* and allow Oto set for at least10 min.
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.55 g 0 .27%
@ Refrigerate until set, about 5 min.
LT100, CP Kelco brand) (0.75%)*
@ Cut into cubes, and refrigerate .
*(% oftotal weight ofMadeira and chicken consomme)
PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Yields280g

Champagne vinegar 150g 100% CD Combine to make p ickling brine.

Sugar JOg 20%
Salt 5g 3.3%
jerusalem artichokes, 100g 67% 0 Vacuum seal with brine, and refrigerate.
peeled and cut into
0.5 em I Y.. in cubes
POU lT RY 13 1
THIRD COURSE
FARCE ROYALE Yields300 g
Pigeon leg meat, cold 150g 100% CD Combine, and puree until smooth.
For more on strategies for rendering fat. see Rendered foie gras fat lOg 6.7%
page 3-145. Salt 3g 2%
lnsta Cure No. 1 1.9g 1.3%
Adding sa lts and phosphates to Nutrifos 088, dissolved 0.16g 0.12%
meat yields less greasy, more Brown pigeon stock 200g 133% 0 Reduce stock to 25 g to make glaze.
co nsistent results. see page 2296 Q) Bloom ge latin, and dissolve in glaze.
160 Bloom gelatin 3.25g 2%
@) Add meat puree, and cool over ice-water bath.
Pancetta, brunoise 40g 27% Fold into meat mixture until comp lete ly incorporated.
Porcini, finely minced 35g 23% Place mixture between two sili cone baking mats.
Hazelnuts, skinned and 35g 23% 0 Roll out with heavy rolling pin; use two dowels
finely minced 5 mm I \4 in. in diameter, one on each side of stacked
Garlic, blanched, 7g 4.7% sheets, for ca libration.
brunoise Refrigerate farce royale until set.
Nutrifos 088 (Asta ris 0.16g 0.12%
brand), dissolved in
warm water
ROAST PIGEON CROWN Yields800 g
Grouse o r partridge make exce llent Pigeon crown 600 g 100% CD Remove skin in one piece, making sure to remove skin
substitutions fo r the pigeon. arou nd arm and shoulde r.
Charles Dickens wrote effusively of 0 Cut out shape from still-co ld skin to fit over crown,
pa rtridge and its many "pleasant using actual crown as template.
disguises" in the Nov. 21, 1868, issue
Farce royale, from above 200 g 27% Q) Dust farce sheet with Activa, and place
of All the Year Round, a sort of
Activa RM or GS as needed over crown .
Ladies' Home}ourno/ of the day. The
piece was titled "Making Game of @) Pull skin over crown.
a Very Serious Subject." Wrap crown tightly in plastic wrap, and
vacuum seal.
Place in vacuum machine on small baking sheet, and
pull full vacuum to collapse any residual air pockets.
0 Refrigerate for 6 h to allow enzyme to bind proteins.
Duck fat as needed Reserve.
Salt to taste
132 VOLUME 5 P LATED DISH RECIPES

21
TOASTED OAT JUS Yields250 g
Pigeon carcass 650g 87% CD Roast in 175 c I 350 Foven until gold en,
Pigeon wings 200g 27% abo ut35 min .
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300g 40% 0 Saute onions until translucent.
Grapeseed oil 45g 6% Add ga rlic, and saute for 5 min .
Garlic, thinly sliced lOg 1.3%
Brown pigeon stock 750g 100% @) Combine with roasted carcass and wings plus onion
see page 2296 mixture.
Red wine (dry) 300g 40% Bring mi xture to simm er.
Rendered foie gras fat 65g 8.7% Skim.
Cognac 50g 6.7% 0 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for
Steel-cut oats, rinsed to 30g 4% 1Y, h.
remove surface starch
Strain, and reduce to 250 g.
Sherry vinegar 20g 2.7%
Sugar 13g 1.7%
Black peppercorns 2g 0.25%
Reduced oat jus, 250g 100% Co mbin e.
from above @ Simme r for 25 min.
Pancetta 25g 10% @ Season
Cognac 7.5g 3% @ Stra in through fine sieve.
Sherry vinegar 5g 2% @ Refrigerate.
Salt 2.5g 1%
Black peppercorns 0.25g 0.1 %
PICKLED CELERY ROOT Yields350 g

Celery juice, clarified 125g 125% CD Combi ne to make pickling brine.
(fro m 250 g of
cele ry)
White wine vi negar 100 g 100%
Sugar 30 g 30%
Salt 5g 5%
Celery root, peeled and 100 g 100% 0 Vacuum sea l with brine.
thinly sliced
Refrigerate.
Coriander seeds, toasted 0.5g 0.5%
POULT RY 133
21
GUINEA HEN TAGINE
Preserved figs, navel oranges, purple Beldi olives
Djemaa el Fna is the crowded, colorful square at the center of The heavy earthenware pot in which a tagine is typically cooked
Marrakesh. Slipping into the alleyways of the medina, past old men and served is called a tagine slaoui, which desert nomads have long
sipping mint tea, you'll find cinnamon, saffron, and cumin in perfect used over open fires. It has a tight-fitting conical lid that traps vaporiz-
cones; oranges from the lush Ourika Valley; piles of apricots, raisins, ing juices in much the same way the lid does when braising a tradi-
dates, and almonds. All of these find their way into the aromatic tional pot roast (see page 2-93). Inside the pot, the trapped moisture
Moroccan stews known as tagines, in which poultry, meats, or fish raises the humidity, which increases the wet-bulb temperature and
are cooked with fruits, spices, and vegetables. Couscous is often speeds cooking. But you don't need the traditional pot to make this
served on the side. tagine. Cooking it sous vide is easier, and gives you far more control.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: dehydrator, sous vide equipment, pressure cooker
OPT IONAL EQUIPMENT: griddle
TIME REQUIRED : 5 h overall (4 wk 5 h if making preserved lemon peel), including 2 h preparation and 20 min to
reheat and finish
TIME TO
Preserved lemon peel, brunoise IS min 4wk* ISS g
Pickled Figs IOmin Sminand4h* 24g
Brown Chicken Stock IS min 1Jh h* 32Sg

see page 2-296
Tagine Base IOmin hh

1 2min 120 g
Sous Vide Guinea Hen IOmin S h* and S h* 20min 5S2 glegs,

520 g breast
Puffed Chickpea Salad 5min 12 h* and 114 h* ISO g
Marinated Navel Oranges IS min 85g
Moroccan Batbout Flatbread IS min 1 h* 4min 400g
GARNISH
Beldi olives, pitted and thinly sliced IS g
Flat-leaf parsley leaves IS g
Almonds, peeled and sliced, toasted 25g
Cumin seeds, toasted 2g

*(unattended times)
POULTRY 1 35
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat guinea hen thighs and breasts at 60 oc I 140 op for about While bread is frying:
15 min. Allow to rest for 5 min. Combine ingredients for the orange salad, and season.
Toss fried chickpeas with tahini dressing and mint leaves.
While guinea hen is reheating:
Slice guinea hen into pieces 1 em I 3/s in thick.
Heat frying oil for chickpeas to 195 oc I 385 F.
To finish:
While guinea hen is resting:
Arrange guinea hen slices on plates.
Deep-fry chickpeas until puffed. Drain on paper towels, and season.
Spoon tagine base over meat.
Panfry bread on lightly oiled griddle or pan until golden and
Garnish with cumin, parsley, preserved lemon peel, olives, pickled
cooked through, about 2 min on each side.
figs, and almonds.
Reheat tagine base.
Serve orange and chickpea salads on the side with the warm bread .
136 VOLUME 5 PLATED DISH RECIPES

21
PICKLED FIGS Yields400 g
Red wine vinegar 350g 175% CD Vacuum seal together.
Dried black figs 200g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 80 oc I 176 F bath for 4 h.
Sugar 200g 100% Coo l comp lete ly.
White balsamic vinegar 195 g 97.5% @) Refrigerate.
Balsamic vinegar 125 g 62.5%
lemon, thinly sliced 20g 10%
Ginger, peeled and 4g 2%
thinly sliced
Cinnamon stick 3.5g 1.75%
Star anise, crushed 1.5 g 0 .75%
Cardamom seeds, black 0.5g 0.25%
Black peppercorns 0.2g 0 .1%
TAGINE BASE Yields150g

Sweet onions, thinly sli ced 100g 100% CD Saute onions until translucent.
Neutral oil 25 g 25%
Brown chicken stock 325g 325% 0 Add, and bring to simmer.
see page 2296
Reduce by half, abo ut 20 min.
Ginger juice 21 g 21 %
Water lOg 10%
Garlic, thinly sliced 9g 9%
lemon juice 9g 9%
Clear honey 5g 5%
Salt 3.5g 3.5%
Cinnamon, freshly ground lg 1%
Preserved lemon peel, 8.5g 8.5% @) Add to onion mixture.
brunoise
see page 3350 Vacuum seal.
Pickled fig, small dice, 6g 6% Refrigerate.
from above
Saffron threads lg 1%
SOUS VIDE GUINEA HEN Yields 250 g

live culture Greek-style 50 g 33% CD Combine.
strained yogurt Marinating the guinea hen in yogurt
inoculates the surface of the meat
Garlic, thinly sliced 25g 16.5% with a live culture. These lactic acid
Guinea hen breasts, 150g 100% 0 Vacuum seal25 g-ofyogurt mixture with breasts. bacteria will produce so me
boneless and skinless characteristic flavors. They a lso
Vacuum sea l remaining 25 g of yogurt mixture
Guinea hen thighs, 150g 100% with thighs. introduce so me lactic acid onto the
boneless and skin less meat's surface, and this, too,
@) Marinate breasts and thighs, refrigerated, for 5 h.
co ntributes to a distinctive taste.
Cook thighs so us vide in 62 oc I 144 F bath for 5 h. Tandoori chicken, the classic Indian
Cook breasts so us vide in 55 oc I 131 F bath to co re dish, uses a yogurt-based marinade
temperature of 54 CI 129 F, about30 min. Hold to the sa me e nd. Chicken may be
breasts at temperature for12 min to ensure proper substituted for guinea hen in this
pasteurization. recipe.
0 Cool thighs and breasts in ice-water bath .
Refrigerate.
POULTRY 137
PUFFED CHICKPEA SALAD INSPIRED BY WYL IE DUFRESNE Yields150 g
Wat er 35 0 g 125% CD Soa k chi ck peas in water fo r 12 h.

For more on the steps involved in making Chickpeas 2BOg 100% Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of l bar I 15 psi
puffed chickpeas, see page 4-302. until tend er, abo ut 25 min.
0 Dehydrate at 50 "C / 122 "F for 45 min.
@) Store in an airtight contain er, in dry, coo l place.
Tahini paste 12g 4.3% Blend to make d ressing.
Extra-virgin olive oil 5g 2%
Lemon juice 2.2g 1%
Sumac 0,5g 0.2%
Salt to taste Seaso n d ress ing.
Small mint leaves 0. 9g 0.3% 0 Rese rve indivi du ally.
NAVEL ORANGE SALAD Yields80 g
Navel orange, supremed 55g 100% CD Reserve in d ividually.

Sweet red onion, lO g 18%
sma ll dice
Beldi o lives, pitted Bg 14.5%
Cumin seeds, toasted and 4 g 7%
coarsely crushed
Argan oil 2.5g 4.5%
Lime juice 1.8g 3.5%
Paprika 1.5g 2. 5%
Cilantro, fin e julienne lg 2%
Orange blossom water 0.2g 0.4%
13 8 VO LUM E 5 PLA TED - DI SH RECI PES

21
MOROCCANBA TBOUTFLATBR EAD Yields 725 g
Wate r, lukewarm 320g 107% CD Sprinkl e yeast over water, and stir to dissolve.
Active dry yeast 7g 2.3% 0 let rest fo r 5 min.
All-purpose flour 300g 100% Mix with yeast mixture.
Fin e semolina flour 100 g 33% 0 Knead dough fo r10 min .
Salt 8g 2.7% Divide into three eq ual portions.
Turmeric, peeled and 4g 1.3% let rise at room temperature until doubled in vo lum e,
fin ely grated abo ut1 h.
Gold en orega no, 1.5g 0.5% 0 Flatten each portion into disc 1 em /% in thi ck.
finely minced
Garnish with herbs.
Refrigerate for up to 4 h.
The flatbread is panfried during assembly.
POULTRY 139
140
PLATED-D I SH RECIPES
22
FISH AND CHIPS 143
HAMACHI MALTAISE 147
MONKFISH WITH
MEDITERRANEAN FLAVORS 151
SKATE IN BLACK BUTTER 157
SALMON RUS 161
MALAYSIAN STEAMED SNAPPER 167
BLACK COD " FREDY GIRARDET" 170
HAWAIIAN POKE 175
141
22
FISH AND CHIPS
Malt vinegar powder, pommes soufflies, sea urchin tartar
Fish is easy to overcook. Too often, by the time the inside is done, the both faster and more gently, finishing with just the right crust.
outside is ruined. Batter is one solution to this problem. Batter takes a Ideally, a crispy crust shatters in your mouth. To achieve that, you
lot of energy to heat, so it moderates the cooking temperature of the need a batter with many weak spots that will break all at once: a foam.
fish. The hot frying oil dries the batter-not the fish-to a crisp, and Not only does the foam further insulate the fish from the hot oil, but
as the water in the batter evaporates, the process crisps the fish's the millions of air bubbles in it form a delicate, flaky crust. Use a
outer layers. Batter made with alcohol, such as beer, works even whipping siphon to dispense a little batter into a bowl, then dip the
better. Alcohol evaporates faster than water does, so the fish cooks fish quickly. Toss it in the deep fryer, and you get crispy perfection.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment, whipping siphon
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: spray dryer
TIME REQUIRED: 12 h overall (2 h if using store-bought malt vinegar powder), including 2 h preparation and
10 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Spray-dried Malt Vinegar Powder 12 h* 15 g

White Fish Stock 1Smin H4 h 70g

see page 2296
Halibut Cheeks Smin 7min 4min 400g
Halibut Cheek Gel Base 4Smin 3min 180 g
Siphoned Tempura Batter Smin 100 g

see page 3332
Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce lOmin 30min* 1min 200g
Pommes Soufllees 30min 10min 3min 200g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Charge batter-filled siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges. Deep-fry halibut cheeks for about 4 min. Rotate cheeks in oil as
Deep-fry pommes souffiees in 200 c I 390 p oil for 2-3 min. they fry, and drizzle more batter on them with fork. This will encase
Drain on paper towels. Season with salt, and reserve warm. cheeks in web oflacy, crunchy batter.
Dust cheeks with malt vinegar powder, and season with salt.
Preheat frying oil for halibut cheeks to 190 c I 375 p.
Arrange cheeks and potatoes on plates, and serve with sea urchin
Roll skewered halibut cheeks in Trisol, coating them evenly.
tartar sauce.
Dispense some batter into bowl, and dip dusted halibut,
coating evenly with batter.
FISH 143
HALIBUT CHEEK Yi elds 400 g
For more on making Crispy Halibut Cheek, Halibut cheeks, trimmed 400g 100% <D Thread on 20 em I 8 in skewers.
including the full step-by-step procedure, of connective tissue (four portions, 0 Refrigerate.
see page l334. 100 g each)
Salt to taste 0 Reserve.
HALIBUT CHEEK GEL BASE Yields 18 0 g
White fish stock 400g 100% <D Redu ce stock to 150 g.

see page 2296
M alt vinegar 30g 7.5% 0 Mix w ith reduced stock.
Salt 4g 1% 0 Cool fish stock mi xture comp letely.
Fish stock mixture, 150g 45% @ Disperse gellans and sodi um citrate in co ld stock
from above mi xture.
low-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0 .75 g 0.19% H eat to 95 c I 203 F, and hold at te mpe rature for
F, CP Kelco brand) (0.5%)* 3 min to fully hyd rate.
Sodium citrate 0.36g 0.1 % Keep gel mixtu re above 65 c I 149 F to prevent it
(0.2%)* fro m ge lling prematurely.
High-acyl gellan (Kelcogel 0.36 g 0.1%
LT100, CP Kelco brand) (0.2%)*
Halibut cheeks, 400g 100% 0 Dip skewe red cheeks into hot ge lled stock three
For more on coating fish with gel, see page from above times, all owing gel to set between dips.
4150. For other suggested gelling agents,
see page 4150.
Pl ace coated cheeks o n sili co ne baking mat.
Refrigerate for 1 h to coo l and set.
*(%oftotal weight ofreduced fish stock)
SIPHONED TEMPURA BATTER Yi elds860 g
All-purpose flour 200g 100% <D Whisk together dry, and reserve.
Rice flour 200g 100%
Salt 4g 2%
Baking powd er 3g 1.5%
Vodka 350 g 175% 0 Whisk together.
Water 200g 100% 0 Whisk in dry fl o ur mixture.
For more on making a foam batter, see page Malt syrup 12 g 6% @ Place batter in 11 siphon.
l334. Refri gerate.
Frying oil as needed Reserve.
Trisol ca n be repl aced by other Trisol (Texturas brand) as need ed
mod ified sta rches, such as
Batte rb in d S f ro m National Starch
o r sim p ly a co mm od ity starch such
as ri ce flour o r t apioca .

22
SEA URCHIN TARTAR SAUCE Yields300 g
Egg GOg 71% CD Vacuum seal.
0 Cooksous vide in 65 oc / 149 F bath for 30 min.
Chill in ice-water bath.
@ Peel.
Lim e juice 7g 8.5% Blend with cooked egg.
Dijon mustard 5g 6%
Grapeseed oi l 85g 100% Drizzl e into egg mixture wh il e blending,
until fully emulsified .
0 Reserve.
Sea urchin tongues 75 g 88% Pass through fine sieve.
Blend into egg emulsion.
Cornichons, finely 28g 33% @ Fold into sauce.
minced
Scallions, finely minced 20g 2%
Garlic chives, fin e 7.5g 9%
brunoise
Parsley, finely min ced 7g 8.5%
Chervil, finely minced 4.7g 5.5%
Tarragon, finely minced 1.8g 2%
Salt 1.5g 2% @ Season sa uce.
Black pepper 0.5g 0.6% @ Refrigerate .
Cayenne pepper 0.3g 0.4%
POMMES SOUFFLEES Yields 350 g

Russet potatoes 400g 100% CD Cut potatoes into ovals 3.5 mm I 'X in thick .
Frying oil as needed 0 Parcook in 143 oc ; 290 Foil until potatoes blister For more on making pommes souffh!es,
Salt and puff slightly, 7-9 min. including a step-by-step procedure, see page
to taste
4-306.
Drain, and cool complete ly.
@ Reserve salt and more frying oil. To ensure good puffing, the dry matter
content of the potato must be just right at
around 19%-22%.
fISH 145
22
HAMACHI MALTAISE
Blood orange, asparagus, egg yolk, spaghetti squash
Sauce Maltaise is a classic French sauce that builds on hollandaise by grafting. The color of the blood orange comes from anthocyanin,
sauce by adding the juice of a blood orange. Sauce Maltaise is both a red pigment that is not usually found in oranges but is common in
sweeter and more colorful than hollandaise, and it is often served other red fruits and vegetables, including blackberries and hibiscus.
with asparagus. The name comes from the fact that blood oranges Here we upgrade the sauce Maltaise to a sabayon, a foam tradition-
were at one point grown in Malta, although most blood orange ally stabilized by using egg yolks but here made in a Modernist way
varieties originated in spontaneous mutations of ordinary oranges with an egg-yolk fluid gel and a whipping siphon. The sabayon is
grown in either Sicily or Spain. The varieties were then propagated paired with the traditional asparagus but also with seared hamachi.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, whipping siphon
TIME REQUIRED : 1 h 20 min overall, including 35 min preparation and 15 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Blood Orange Sabayon 5min 20min lOmin 250g
Con fit Egg Yolk Puree 5min 45 min 120 g
Sous Vide Green Asparagus 5min 10 min 200g
Sous Vide White Asparagus 3min 7 min 2min 200g
Marinated Spaghetti Squash 10min 15min 10 min 120 g
Seared Hamachi 5min 2min four portions,

125 g each
GARNISH
Brown butter, warm 70g

see page 4213
Blood oranges 12 supremes
Lemon balm leaves 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Warm sabayon-filled siphon in 65 "C / ISO "F bath for at least 20 min. Arrange hamachi and green and white asparagus evenly among four
Charge siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges. heatproof plates.
Marinate squash in orange juice-honey vinegar dressing for 10 min. Heat under broiler for 15 s to ensure hamachi and asparagus are
Vacuum seal green asparagus with water, oil, and salt; cook sous warmed through.
vide in 85 "C / 185 "F bath for 10 min. Dot each plate with egg yolk confit.
While squash is marinating: Finish the pieces of fish with warm brown butter.
Sear hamachi in very hot frying pan on one side only, basting Garnish with marinated squash, blood orange supremes, and lemon
constantly with brown butter, to core temperature of 32 "C / 90 "F, balm leaves.
about 2 min. Season with salt. Dispense blood orange sabayon into serving vessel, and serve
Sear white asparagus cut side down, until golden, while basting with alongside hamachi.
clarified butter, until just warmed through.
FISH 1 47
BLOOD ORANGE SABAYON Yields 250 g
Shallots, finely minced 75g 29% CD Sweat until tender, about 7 min.
Clarified unsalted butter 50g 19%
White wine (dry) 450g 173% 0 Add to sha ll ots, and reduce to 120 g.
White wine vinegar 20g 7.7% Reserve.
Blood orange juice 260g 100% @) Reduce orange juice to 30 g.
Unsalted butter, melted 62g 24% Combine with shallot and orange j uice reductions
Egg yolk, cooked in 48g 18.5% to make sabayon base.
65 c I 149 r bath for Transfer to 1 I whipping siphon.
35min 0 Refrigerate.
The spray-dried b lood -orange ju ice Spray-dried 40g 15%
can be purchased from Obipekt in, blood-orange juice
or see page 2443 for a rec ipe. Heavy cream 38g 14.6%
For more on spray-drying, see page 2-438. lemon juice 15g 5.8%
Salt 4g 1.5%
(0.06%)*
*(% oftotal weight ofshallot and orange juice reductions and other
base ingredients)
CONFIT EGG YOLK PUREE Yields110 g
Egg yolks, blended 100g 100% <D Vacuum sea l.

0 Cook so us vide in 69 c I 156 r bath for 45 min.
Champagne vinegar 8g 8% Puree with egg yolks.
Glucose syrup DE40 4g 4%
Salt to taste @) Season puree, and refrigerate .

22
SOUS VIDE GREEN ASPARAGUS Yields200g
Green asparagus, 200g 100% CD Measure and refrigerate. Sauce Maltaise is usually se rved
stalks peeled over as paragus, but its bright citrus
(about1.5 em I% in thick) flavor also wo rks we ll w ith
Water 20g 10% 0 Measure and reserve individually. hamachi.
Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 5%
Salt 2g 1%
SOUS VIDE WHITE ASPARAGUS Yields200 g

White asparagus, 200g 100% CD Vacuum sea l together.
sta lks peeled
0 Cook sous vide in 89 c / 192 r bath for? min.
(about1.5 em /% in thick)
0 Cool in ice-water bath.
Clarified unsalted butter 20g 10%
@ Cut each spear lengthwise three-fourths of the way
Salt 2g 1% through.
Refrigerate.
MARINATED SPAGHETTI SQUASH Yields150 g

Spaghetti squash 130 g 100% CD Steam until tender, about15 min.
0 Shred strands while still hot.
Orange juice 24g 18.5% @ Combine to make dressing.
Honey vinegar 11g 8.5% Refrigerate. Acetaldehyde is the co mponent
Extra-virgin olive oil 8g 6.2% that gives fresh citrus juice its
Sichuan peppercorns, 2g 1.5% distinctive fresh flavor. Adding a
coarsely ground small amount enlivens the dish. It is
important to safely store and
Orange zest, finely grated 0.5g 0.4%
handle the co ncentrated chemical.
Aceta ldehyde 0.015 g 0.01 %
Salt to taste
SEARED HAMACHI Yields500g

Hamachi belly or fillet 500g 100% CD Cut into four equal rectangles, and refrigerate.
Brown butter 75g 15% 0 Measure and reserve individually.
see page 4213 O ther delicate white fish - including
Salt so le, monkfish, john Dory, and
5g 1%
black cod-can be substituted fo r
hamachi.
FIS H 149
22
MONKFIS H WITH MEDITERR ANEAN FLAVORS
Zucchini blossom beignet with halibut brandade filling, spice mix emulsion, mussels
Truth be told, the monkfish is not the most beautiful fish in the sea. another is found in the western Indian Ocean. Monkfish are strangely
It is a predator that waits motionless on the bottom, blending in with absent from most of the Pacific, however, with just one species that
rocks and debris. It is also called an anglerfish, because it dangles swims along the coasts of East Asia.
from its head a long spine with a soft fleshy end that twitches like a Chefs prize monkfish for the tail meat; the texture of the meat
worm. When a fish comes in for the bait, the monkfish distends its reminds some people oflobster. Indeed, it was once called "poor
enormous jaws; it can swallow fish as long as its own body. Six of the man's lobster" but grew so popular that it became more costly than
seven species of monkfish (sometimes also called goosefish) live in the real thing. Here, we cook monkfish sous vide and garnish it with
the Atlantic. One species extends into the Mediterranean, and a zucchini beignet stuffed with a halibut brandade.
Y IELD: four portions

SP EC IA L EQ U IPM EN T: so us vide equipment, whipping siphon
TIME REQUIRED : 49 h overall (15 d if making Salted Halibut), including 1 h preparation and
30 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Salted Halibut 12 h* and 15 d* 160 g
Pate a Choux Smin 12 h* and 10 min 750g
Halibut Brandade 2 d* and 1 h 20 min 640g
Zucchini Blossom Beignets 10min Smin four
Sous Vide Mussels 10min 3min 15 min* 450g
Fish Spice Mix Smin 10 g
Spice Mix Emulsion Smin 20min 2min 250g
Sous Vide Monkfish Pave 2Smin 45 min* 25 min* 400 g (four fillets,
100 g each)
GARNISH
Green almonds 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Cook monkfish sous vide at 48 c I 119 "F to core temperature Season with salt.
of 47 c I 117 "F, about 25 min. Warm spice mix emulsion, and adjust seasoning.
Cook mussels so us vide at 65 c I 149 "F for 12 min. Place monkfish pave on each serving plate.
While fish is cooking: Garnish each plate with zucchini blossom beignet, cooked mussels,
Deep-fry battered zucchini blossoms in 195 c I 380 "Foil until and green almonds, and dust with additional fish spice mix.
golden brown, about 3 min. Drain on paper towel-lined tray. Pour spice mix emulsion at table.
f IS H 1 51
PATE A CHOUX Yields 725 g
Wh ole milk, heated to 250g 100% CD Di spe rse Methocel over hot milk, shearing co nsta ntl y
90 oc / 194 F with immersion blender for 3 min.
Methocel SGA 150 3.2g 1.3% 0 Vacuum seal.
(Dow brand) (0.5%)* Refrigerate fo r12 h to hydrate.
Unsalted butter, melted 70g 28% @) Blend w ith milk, and bring to a boil.
Salt 5g 2%
Sugar 5g 2%
All-purpose flour, sifted 120g 48% Add to hot milk mixture al l at once.
Cook, stirring constant ly, until mixture forms ball
and pot is coated with shiny film of residual dough,
about5min.
Eggs 250g 100% 0 Transfer ball of dough to stand mixer.
Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed with
padd le attachm ent until incorporated.
Measure 250 g, and reserve.
*(% oftotal weight ofmilk, butter, olive oil, and eggs)
HALIBUT BRANDADE Yie lds BOO g
The quantity of t he w hole milk w ill Whole milk as needed CD Soak halibut in milk for12 h.
depend on the size of the fish as Salted halibut 160g 100% 0 Drain fish, and discard milk.
we ll as the shape and size of the o ptional, see page 3187
Repeat steps 1 and 2 th ree times, for total soak ing tim e
co ntainer. Garlic, sliced and 25 g 16% of 48 h. Reserve 20 g of liquid from fi nal soak ing step.
blanched twice
@) Vacuum seal reserved soak ing liquid, halib ut, and
garli c together.
Cook so us vid e at 58 oc / 135 F to co re temperature
Good quality, store-bought sa lt cod
of 57 oc I 133 F, about 20 min . Hold at this co re
can be substituted for the halibut.
temperature for another1 5 min.
Pulse in food processor until finely sh redded.
Water 1 kg 625% 0 Vacuum seal potato slices in a thin even layer.
Yukon Gold or other waxy 250g 156% Cook so us vid e at 90 oc / 194 Ffor45 min.
potatoes, thinly sliced Drain potatoes, and pass through ricer.
Extra-virgin olive oil 90g 56% @ Mix into potatoes.
@ Pass through a fine sieve.
@ Fold sieved potatoes into halibut-ga rli c mixture.
@ Refrigerate.
152 VO LUM E 5 PLA TED - DISH RECI PES

22
ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM BEIGNETS Yie lds6sog

Halibut Brandade, 150g 100% CD Fold together, and reserve.
from above
Pate a Choux, from above 250g 166%
Carbonated water, 180g 120% 0 Combine to make batter.
refrigerated
Transfer to 11 whipping siphon.
All-purpose flour 60g 40% 0 Charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide, and
Tapioca starch 60g 40% shake vigorous ly.
Trehalose or isomalt 30g 20%
Vodka 20g 13.5%
Egg whites 45g 30% Whip to stiff peaks.
@ Fold into brandade and pate a choux mixture.
0 Transfer to piping bag.
Zucchini blossoms 75 g (about 8} 50% Pipe mixture into zucchini blossoms.
Frying oil as needed To serve, dispense batter into open container.
@ Dip stuffed blossoms to coat fully.
@ Deep-fry in 195 c ; 380 f oil until gold en brown,
about3 min.
@ Drain on paper towel-lined tray.
Salt as needed @ Season.
FISH 153
SOUS VIDE MUSSELS Yields 450 g
Live musse ls, rin sed 250 g 100% CD Vacuum seal.

and beards removed 0 Cook in boiling water for 3 min.
Chi ll in ice-water bath.
0 Shuck, reserving mussels and ju ice.
Strain ju ice, and reserve 120 g for sp ice mix emu lsion .
Shallots, thinly sliced 70g 28% Combine mu sse ls with rema ining ingredients.
Fennel, thinly sliced 50g 20% 0 Vacuum sea l.
White wine (dry) 50g 20% Refrigerate.
Pasti s 5g 2%
Preserved lemon zest, 2g 1%
min ced
see page 3350
Bay leaves 0.5g 0.2%
FISH SPICE MIX Yields 450 g
Hazelnuts, peel ed, 24g 100% CD Prepare ingredients as noted.

roasted, and coarsely 0 Comb in e in mortar or food processor.
ground
Grind to coarse powder.
Sesame seeds, toasted 22g 92%
0 Vacuum sea l to preserve aroma.
Refrigerate.
White poppy seeds, 5g 22%
toasted
This spice mixture is in cred ibly Powd ered ginger 2g 8.5%
ve rsatil e. We highly reco mm end it
Salt 1.6g 6.5%
fo r sole, turbot, o r any simil ar fi sh
Dried chamomile, ground 1.2 g 0.5%
simply pan fri ed in butter.
154 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DI SH RECIPES

SPICE-MIX EMULSION
22
Yields250g
Unsalted butter 24g 20% 0 Prepare ingredients as noted.

Garlic, finely minced 12g 10% 0 Saute over medium heat until fragrant.
Ginger, finely minced 6g 5%
Anchovy fillets, finely Sg 4%
min ced
Mussel juice, from above 120g 100% Deglaze pan, and reduce to 100 g.
Manzanilla sherry 48g 40%
Xanthangum 0.2g 0.17% 0 Blend into reduction.
(0.15%)*
Extra-virgin olive oil 30g 25% Blend into mixture until emulsified.
Fish sp ice mix, 20g 17% Season mixture.
from above 0 Cool and refrigerate.
Champagne vinegar to taste
*(% oftotal weight ofmussel-sherry reduction and olive oil)
SOUS VIDE MONKFISH PAVE Yields450 g

Salt 28 g 7% 0 Combine to make cure.

Lemon zest, grated 0.4g 0.1 %
Monkfish fillet 400g 100% 0 Du st cure evenly over all surfaces of fillet.
Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for45 min.
0 Rinse fillet, and pat dry.
Extra-virgin olive oil as needed Cut cured monkfish into four squares of100 g each.
Brush surface of each square with olive oil.
Baby zucchini, sliced 200g 50% 0 Lay zucchini sli ces neatly and in overlapping fashion,
1 mm I Xo in thick on surface of each square to resemble fish scales.
Vacuum seal each square individually with 20 g of
olive oil.
Refrigerate.
FI 5 H 155
22
SKATE IN BLACK BUTTER
Black butter, caper droplets, Meyer lemon, toasted bread
Biologists classify skates as members of the subfamily called elasmo- Skate has historically been an inexpensive fish, although that is
branchs, which also includes sharks and rays. All members of this changing as its popularity grows. One problem with cooking skate is
subfamily have rough skin with embedded scales, five to seven gills, that the meat is naturally tapered: thick near the center but thinning
and skeletons made of cartilage rather than bone. Rays are the dramatically toward the edges. ChefWylie Dusfresne's solution to
closest relatives of skates, and the two look very similar. The differ- this geometric challenge, which we also use here, is to bond two
ence is that some rays have stingers with which they can inflict skate wings together with Activa to make a single piece of constant
injury-skates do not. Rays also give birth to live young (as do some thickness. The classic French preparation is to panfry skate and serve
sharks), whereas skates lay eggs in an egg case, known as a mermaid's it with brown (or black) butter sauce and capers. Here we follow this
purse, that has a horn at each of its four corners. flavor profile with spherified capers and carbonated raisins.
YIELD : four portions

SPE CIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, whipping siphon
TIME TO
Brown Butter Extract 2min Sh 8g

see page 2326
Brown Fish Stock lSmin l lJ< h* 600g

see page 2296
Brown Butter Fumet Smin 15 min and 12 h* 120g
Black Butter Emulsion lOmin 20min 120g
Caper Droplets 30min 50g
Carbonated Golden Raisins 5min 2 h* l lh h* 40g
Preserved Citrus Curd lOmin 5min 30g

see page 4234
Skate Pave with Bread Crust lOmin 6h* 25 min* and 5 min 300 g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
A half hour before raisins are fully carbonated: Remove skate portions from bags, pat dry on paper towels, and
Cook skate sous vide in 52 oc I 126 op bath to core temperature of place slice of bread on each. Sear, bread side down, in clarified
s1 oc I 124 op, about 2s min. butter until bread is crisp and golden. Season.
While skate is cooking: Spoon lemon curd across serving plates. Arrange one portion of fish
in center of each plate.
Heat black butter emulsion base to a low simmer. Blend in
cold butter until fully emulsified; blend in miso, then season with Garnish with caper droplets and carbonated raisins. Serve both
lemon juice. sauces on side.
Reheat brown butter fumet, and adjust seasoning.
FI SH 1 57
BROWN BUTTER FUMET Yields150g
Brown fish stock 200g 100% <D Simmer together until reduced to 200 g.
see page 2296
0 Cool.
Sake 150g 75%
Vermouth (dry) 50g 25%
Ri ce vinegar lOg 5%
Brown butter extract 8g 4% @ Whiskin.
see page 4213
Salt to taste @) Season and refrigerate.
BLACK BUTTER EMULSION Yields300g

Brown fish stock 400g 200% <D Reduce to about 200 g.
see page 2304
Fish stock red uction, 200g 100% 0 Blend black butter, soy sauce, and in k into
from above reduced stock.
Black butter, warm 25g 12.5% Coo l and reserve.
see page 4213
White soy sauce 20g 10%
Squid ink 2.7g 1.35%
Unsalted butter, co ld 40g 20% @) Measure and reserve ind ividually.
Whitemiso 20g 10%
Lemon juice as needed
Panfried skate basted in black butter is a
classic preparation for a reason: it's great.
158 VOLUME 5 PLATED - DI SH REC I PE S

22
These liquid droplets are fashioned to look

like capers, in the style of eiBulli's liquid
CAPER DROPLETS YieldslOOg olives. Black butter often is served with
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE capers and lemon for an essential burst of
acidity.
Capers 90g 100% CD Blend to fine puree.
White wine vinegar 6g 6.7% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Caper brine Sg 5.5%
Calcium lactate 3g 3.3% W hi sk into caper puree.
(3%)* For more on spherification and how to do it, see
page4184.
Water SOOg 555% 0 Disperse a lginate in cold water until fu ll y dissolved,
Sodium alginate 2.5g 2.8% to make setting bath.
(Algin, Texturas brand)
(0.5%)** Fi ll sq ueeze bottle with cape r puree.
Expe l drop lets into bath, and leave for 30 s.
0 Drain droplets, and rinse in fresh water.
Neutral o il as needed Reserve droplets in oi l.
*(%oftotal weight ofcapers, white wine vinegar, and caper brine)
**(%oftotal weight ofwater)
CARBONATED GOLDEN RAISINS YieldslOO g

Verjuice (store-bought) 125 g 250% @ Comb ine. For more on carbonation, including step-by-
Golden raisins 50 g 100% 0 Hydrate in refrigerator for 2 h. step procedures and alternative methods, see
Water lOg 20% page 2469.
Transfer to carbonating siphon, and charge with t hree
carbon dioxide cartridges for l V2 h before serving.
SKATE PAVE WITH BREAD CRUST Yields480 g

Skate wings 600g 100% CD Dust even ly with Activa, ensuring grain of a ll wings is
(fo url25 g wings) facing in same direction.
ActivaRM as needed 0 Stack wings, a lternating thick and thin e nds, and
(Ajinomoto brand) vacuum seal. For more on using Activa, see page 3-250.
Refrigerate for at least 6 h so p roteins bond.
0 Remove from bag, and cut into 100 g squares.
Vacuum sea l individually, and refrigerate.
White bread, crustless BOg 13% Cut bread sli ces into sq ua res slightly large r than skate
and cut into four slices, squa res, and reserve.
3 mm I Yo in thick
Clarified unsa lte d butte r as needed 0 Reserve individually.
see page 4213
Salt to taste
fI SH 159
SALMON RUS
22
Salmon oil, smoked butter, root vegetables, cryopoached dill meringue
Across western Russia, you will find lightly cured salmon on any of the fish. A foamy dill-vodka meringue, poached in liquid nitro-
smorgasbord. How did this staple of Scandinavia find its way gen, is first served to refresh the palate. It introduces traditional
there? We speculate that the seafaring tribe of Vikings called the Scandinavian flavors-but with a contemporary twist.
Rus, who founded Kiev in the 9th century, brought their salmon We garnish the fish with a jus made from the cooking juices of the
with them. Curing the salmon allowed them to preserve it for long salmon and root vegetables. Cold-smoked butter is added during the
ocean voyages; it also made the salmon incredibly salty, however. finishing steps. As a final touch, we add salmon skins that have been
Here, we cure the salmon lightly, then cook it sous vide at a low puffed into crispy pillows. It is a Modernist interpretation of a
temperature to produce a result that preserves the delicate qualities palatial feast.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, Dewar bowl, liquid nitrogen, whipping siphon
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: smoking equipment
T IME REQUIRED: 25 h overall, including 1~ h preparation and 30 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Cold-smoked Butter 24h* 70g
Sous Vide Salmon lOmin 7 h* 25min 400g

(four portions)
Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows 15min 3 h* and 5 h* 8min 35g
Root Vegetable Jus 25min 4h* 3min 50g
Salmon Oil Cream 5min 1 h* BOg

see page 4236
Carrot and Dill Fricassee lOmin 40min 5min 125 g
Cryopoached Dill Meringue 25min 2min 250g
GARNISH
Dill sprigs eight
Smoked salt as needed

Golden trout roe or salmon roe 40g
*(unattended times)
f ISH 161
ASSEMBLY:
Preheat oil for salmon skin pillows to 175 oc I 350 F. After palate cleanser has been served:
Cook salmon sous vide in 41 oc I 106 op bath to core temperature Warm carrot fricassee, about 5 min. Season with
of 40 oc I 104 op, about 25 min. reserved ingredients.
Warm root vegetable jus.
While salmon is cooking:
Blend in smoked butter until fully emulsified.
Dispense mousse onto spoon to form small egg-shaped ball.
Season with lime juice and salt.
Drop ball into liquid nitrogen. Scoop liquid nitrogen over mousse,
Arrange salmon and carrot fricassee on each plate.
turn ball, and poach other side. Poach until crispy on outside and
Garnish with dots of salmon oil cream and a spoonful of roe, and
soft in center, no more than 10 s.
season fish with dill sprigs and smoked salt.
Serve immediately. Each ball should be eaten in a single bite.
Serve salmon skin pillows on side.
Deep-fry salmon skin pillows until golden and puffed, about 8 min.
Pour jus at table .
Drain, and season with salt.
Be ca reful notto freeze the

meringue for more than 10 s. It can Yields400g
burn a diner's lip or tongue and be
SOUS VIDE SALMON
quite painful. INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 150g 37.5% CD Whisk together until sugar is fully dissolved to

Salt 9g 2.3% form brine.
Sugar 5g 1.25%
Salmon fillet 400g 100% 0 Cut into four100 g portions.
(preferably wild king) Soak in brine for 7 h.
@) Drain.
Extra-virgin olive oil BOg 20% Vacuum seal each salmon portion with 30 g of oil.
The salmon can be served using smoke as Refrigerate.
a garnish for a dramatic and aromatic
effect. For the technique, see page 3-214.

22
PUFFED SALMON SKIN PILLOWS Yields35 g
Salmon skin 25g 100% 0 Vacuum seal.
(one intact piece) Cook sous vid e in 85 CI 185 F bath for 3 h.
Remove fro m bag to cool.
@) Trim, and cut into at least 24 sq uares, each meas uring
3.5 em I 1Y2in.
ActivaGS Sg 20% Whisk together. Activa sea ls the sa lmon skin into
Water, Sg 20% Brush on 3 mm I Yo in edge of each skin sq uare. a pillow-shaped balloon. The sea l
10-25 oc 1 s0-77"F must be tight and co ntinuous or it
0 Sandw ich two sq uares together to sea l.
wo n't puff properly.
Repeat to make total of at least 12 sa nd w iched
squa res.
Vacuum sea l without overlapping.
@ Refrigerate for at least 6 h.
ROOT VEGETABLE JUS Yields350 g

Salmon belly, trim 200g 200% 0 Vacuum seal.
Cook sous vide in 43 oc I 109 F bath for1 h.
Stra in through fine sieve, and measure 100 g of
sa lmon juice.
@) Refrigerate.
Turnip juice 270g 270% Vacuum sea l together. for more on juicing vegetables, see page 2332.
(from400 g Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 F bath for 3 h.
turnips)
0 Strain through fine sieve.
Rutabaga juice llSg 115%
Reduce to 200 g.
(from 300 g
rutabagas)
Celery root juice 75g 75%
(from 150 g ce lery
root)
Sweet onion juice SOg 50%
(from 120 g onions)
leek juice 30g 30%
(from 90 g leeks)
Parsnip juice 15g 15%
(from 65g
parsnips)
Strained salmon juice, 100g 100% Stir into vegetab le juice reduction .
from above @ Refrigerate .
Cold-smoked butter 70g 70% @ Measure and reserve individually.
see page 4100
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
FI SH 163
CARROT AND DILL FRICASSEE Yields 125 g
Carrots, peeled llOg 100% 0 Halve carrot lengthwise, and core.

Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 9% 0 Cut into half-moons 5 mm I 'A in thick.
Vacuum sea l with oil.
@) Cook so us vid e in 85 c; 185 f bath for40 min.
Cool in bag in ice-wate r bath.
Unsalted butter lOg 9% Measure and reserve individually for service.
Ajowan seeds 2g 1.8%
Dill 2g 1.8%
Semisweet vinegar 2g 1.8%
(honey or white ba lsamic)
Salt to taste

22
CRYOPOACHED DILL MERINGUE Yields 1.2 kg
INSPIRED BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL

lsomalt 124g 27.5% <D Com bin e.
LM Pectin (Genup ectin 11 g 2.44%
LM104AS, CP Kelco brand)
Water 260 g SB% 0 W hisk iso malt mi xture into water.
Brin g to a simm er.
@) Simme r fo r 2 mi n, and remove fro m heat.
Dill 12g 2.7% Ad d to isomalt mi xture.
Cove r, and stee p fo r 7 min.
0 Strain through fin e sieve.
Refrige rate infused mixture.
Cucumber juice 450 g 100% Ad d to in fused mixture to form so ur base .
Lim e juice 133g 30 %
Egg whites If the foam is co ll apsing too quickly,
125g 28% @ W his k into sou r base .
reduce the amount of vodka . This is
Vodka SOg 11% @ Po ur into 1 I siphon, and charge w ith three nitro us best done by reserving some of the
ox id e cartridges to pro duce sti ff, glossy foam w ith base and diluting the mixture if
co nsiste ncy of shaving crea m. necessary.
@ Refri gerate sipho n.
These are assembly steps for cryopoaching the dill meringue. For a full step-by-step
procedure for making cryopoached meringues, see page 2-460.
FISH 1 65
22
MALAYSIAN STEAMED SNAPPER
Crisped skin, banana leaf, fermented prawn, Malaysian aromatic oil
In the melting pot of flavors that is Malaysia, one simple, traditional People have cooked in banana leaves for centuries. By contrast, the
dish stands out: fish steamed in a banana leaf. The waxy leaf makes for shrimp noodle in this recipe is squarely modern. Chef Wylie Dufresne
a perfectly self-contained food parcel: you can cook in it, present food of wd-50 in Manhattan creates a "pasta" that is 95% shrimp. He
in it, eat from it, and then let it biodegrade. Cooking in the leaf creates purees the shrimp with a dusting of Activa, then extrudes the cohesive
a high-humidity environment that prevents the food surface from puree into hot water to make noodles. Inspired by these ideas, we
drying out. The effect is similar to cooking sous vide, except for the added the flavors of coconut milk and belacan (shrimp paste) to our
lack of temperature control. shrimp noodles, giving them a decidedly Southeast Asian flavor.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: dehydrator, combi oven
TIME REQUIRED: 13 h overall, including 45 min preparation and 25 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Crispy Snapper Skin Smin 3 h' and 5 h' 50g
Malaysian Aromatic Oil 5min 45 min and 12 h' 25 g
Fermented Shrimp Sheets 5min 10 min and 12 h' 40g
Wok-fried Malaysian Vegetables 10min 2 'h min 200g
Sous Vide Snapper 5min 20min 400g
Green Mango and Cashew Salad 15min 1 min 250g
GARNISH
Mint leaves 15 g
Cilantro leaves 12g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Cook fish in sous vide in 52 ' C I 125 ' F bath to core temperature of Toss green mango with remaining salad elements.
51 ' C I 123 ' F, about 20 min. Arrange portion of steamed fish on each plate, and top with sauteed
While fish is steaming: vegetables.
Saute vegetables in oil in wok until just cooked through and still Finish with green mango and cashew salad.
crisp, about 2 1/ 2 min. Garnish with crispy skin, and mint and cilantro leaves.
FISH 167
CRISPY SNAPPER SKIN Yields50 g
Snapper skin 40g 100% CD Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 85 c / 185 "Fbath
for 3 h, then cool.
Egg whites 40g 100% 0 Blend until completely incorporated.
Maltodextrin DE 19 20g 50% 0 Brush egg white mixture gently onto both sid es
of cool ed skin .
Salt as needed @) Season brushed skin.
Dehydrate at 50 "C/ 122 "Fin dehydrator or oven until
crisp, about 5 h.
Store in airtight container in cool, dry place.
MALAYSIAN AROMATIC OIL Yields500 g
Grapeseed oi l 350g 100% CD Combine, and simmer together until oil is deep red
Tomatoes, peeled and 140g 40% and heavily saturated with aromatics, about 45 min.
seeded 0 Cool.
Red shallots, thinly sliced 75 g 21 .5% 0 Vacuum seal.
Sweet onions, sliced 65g 19% @) Refrigerate for12 h to finish infusion .
Sichua n chilies, seeded 40g 11.5% Stra in through fine sieve.
and crushed Reserve for cooking wok-fri ed vegetables.
Garlic, pounded to paste lOg 3%
Shrimp paste (be lacan) lOg 3%
Ginger, grated 7.5g 2%
Red bird's-eye chili, 2.5 g 0.7%
thinly sliced
FERMENTED SHRIMP SHEETS I NSPIRED BY WY LI E DUFRESNE Yields300 g
Raw shrimp, ground 200g 100% CD Puree in food processor until smooth.
Coconut milk 100g 50% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Shrimp paste (belacan) 15 g 7.5% 0 Spread on silicon e mat in layer1 mm I y,. in thick.
Heating the shrimp sheets to 55 "C/ Activa Tl (or Activa RM) 6g 3% @) Cover, and steam in 55 "C/ 131 "Fcomb i oven for4 min
131 "F in creases the acti vity of the Sa lt 1.25 g 0.65% covered .
enzymes in Activa that cross- li nk Refrigerate for 1 h to set.
th e proteins in the p uree. Steam at 100 "C / 212 "Ffor1 min, or cook so us vide
at same temperature and time .
168 VOLUME 5 PL ATED-D I SH RECIPES

22
WOK-FRIED MALAYSIAN VEGETABLES Yi e lds200 g
Bamboo shoots, 60g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually, refrigerated.
thinly sliced
Young lotus root, SOg 83%
thinly sliced
Fermente d prawn sheets, 40g 67%
from above, julienne
Garlic chives, diced 30g 50%
Malaysian aromatic oil, 25g 42%
from above
Savoy cabbage, chiffonade 25g 42%
Bean sprouts, trimmed 20g 33%
SOUS VIDE SNAPPER Yie lds350 g

Sambal badjak 70g 28% CD Combine.
(store-bought) 0 Pass through fine sieve, and rese rve .
Kejap man is 15g 6%
(store-bought)
Shaox ingwine lOg 4%
Snapper, filleted 250g 100% Cut snapper into four 60 g portions.
and skinned @) Brush sieved mixture in laye rl mm I y,. in, onto
Salt to taste snapper portions.
Season .
Refrigerate until needed.
GREEN MANGO AND CASHEW SALAD Yie lds256g

Green mango, fine 100g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually.
julienne
Cashews, roasted 30g 30%
Mint leaves, torn 8g 8%
Cilantro stems and 4g 4%
leaves, thinly sliced
Coconut water 60g 60% 0 Blend until smooth.
(fresh or canned)
Refrigerate.
Fish sauce 40g 40%
Distilled vinegar 19 g 19%
Lime juice 13g 13%
Sugar 8g 8%
Salt lg 1%
(0.2%)*
*(% total weight ofsix preceding ingredients\
FI SH
BLOSSOM SALAD Yields125 g
Baby a rti chokes, trimmed 60g 100% CD To serve, cut raw a rti chokes into slices 1 mm I Y,, in
of tough leaves thick with mando lin.
Apricots, julienne 48g 80% 0 Toss with rema ining ingredients.
O rganic roses can be hard to find. Organic rose petals 8g 13% Season.
Rep lace with ed ible b lossoms that Extra-virgin olive oil Sg 8%
can often be found in good super- Organic pa nsies 4g 7%
markets in the fresh he rb section.
Wild wood violets (Jamb's 4g 7%
lettuce can be substitute d)
lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
CONDRIEU BUTTER Yields340 g
Condrieu wine 750g 500% CD Vacuum reduce to 150 g, a nd reserve.

Vacuum red uction is our favor ite
Shallots, thinly sliced 60g 40% 0 Saute until tender, aboutlO min.
method for reducing Condrieu
wine to preserve its de licate flora l Clarified unsalte d butter 50g 33%
tones. Fo r a step-by-step p rocedure Lychee juice (fresh) 100 g 67% Deglaze sha ll ots.
in this and other suitable red uction @) Remove from heat.
methods, see page 2379. Dra in .
Coo l comp letely.
Condrieu reduction, 150g 100% (!) Whisk into sha llots.
from above Vacuum sea l and refrigerate.
Unsalted butter, 75g 50% Measure and reserve individually.
cold and cubed
Osmanthus vinegar 15g 10%
Osmanthus vi negar is a sem isweet
Orange blossom O.OSg 0.03%
vi negar avai lable from most As ian
markets. It is made from osmant hus essentia l oil
b lossoms and has a pronounced Rose essential oil O.OSg 0.03%
aro ma offres h ap ricots. If unavail- Salt to taste
ab le, you can substitute other
se misweet vinegars, such as Muscat
or wh ite ba lsamic.
ARTICHOK E CONFIT Yields150g
Water SO Og 333% CD Vacuum sea l together.

Purple artichoke, trimmed 150g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 85 c / 185 F bath for1 Y' h.
Unsalted butter 25g 16.7% Remove from bag, and coo l.
lime juice 15 g 10% @) Refrigerate.
Bay leaf 0.2g 0.13%
Salt to taste
22
FRICASSEE OF FAVA BEANS AND LYCHEES Yields150 g

Fava beans, shelled 50 g 62.5% CD To serve, saute together in butter until just warmed
Romaine lettuce heart, 10 g 12.5% through, abo ut 2 min.
julienne
Unsalted butter 2g 2.5%
lych ees (fresh or canned), 80 g 100% 0 Toss in lychees, and heat until just warmed through,
peeled iffresh about 1 min.
APRICOT AND JASMINE PUREE Yields250 g

Unripe apricot juice, fresh 315 g 100% CD Blend together to fine puree.
Dried apricots, chopped 100 g 32%
{0.77%)*
Osmanthus vinegar 25 g 8% 0 Add to apricot puree.
Refrigerate.
jasmine essential oil 0.1g 0.03%
(one drop)
*(% total weight ofall other ingredients)
BLACK COD Yields500g

Black cod fillet 500g 100% CD Cut fillet into four eq ual portions.
Salt 7g 1.4% 0 Combine with sa lt and sugar.
Sugar 3g 0.6% Vacuum sea l portions individu ally, and refrigerate
for1 htocure.
0 Remove cured fish from bags.
Rinse and pat dry.
Vacuum seal and refrigerate.
FISH 173
22
HAWAIIAN POKE
Escolar and tuna checkerboard, ogo, candlenut, passion fruit
You' ll find poke on the menu of many high-end Hawaiian restau- China-and the influx led to hundreds of variations on the tradi-
rants today, but the dish has humble origins. Polynesian fishermen tional poke theme. These dishes gained even wider attention in the
would catch reef fish, score them, and eat them with a little salt, 1980s, as Americans developed increasing interest in regional
seaweed, and roasted candlenut relish. Poke became a blue-collar, cuisines. Today, yellowfin tuna (ahi) and a crunchy seaweed (ogo)
workaday dinner, often chased with a beer. are popular ingredients. This recipe imagines yellowfin tuna in a
In the 1900s, the flourishing sugarcane industry in Hawaii checkerboard pattern with rich white escolar alongside Maui sweet
attracted a flood of immigrants-many of them from Japan and onion salsa and passion fruit for balance.
Y IELD: Jour portions

OPTI ON AL EQUIPMENT: Pacojet
TIME REQUIR ED: 12 h overall, including 50 min preparation and 5 min to finish
TIME TO
Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard 30min 12 h lmin 400g
Passion Fruit Granita Smin 2 h. lmin 80g
Roasted Candlenuts 8min SOg
Marinated Ogo Smin 2min lOOg
Sweet Onion Salsa lOmin 160 g
GARNISH
Jicama, small dice IS g
Cilantro leaves 12
Passion fruit seeds 10 g
Toasted sesame oil 8g

*(unattended times)
Esco lar ca n be elusive. So metimes

ASSEMBLY: labeled "butterfish," it has mas-
Marinate ogo in reserved ingredients for 2 min. queraded as white tun a or sea bass,
and is often co nfused with oilfish. It
Season onion salsa with white soy sauce and rice vinegar.
ca n have an oil co nte nt as high as
Pacotize passion fruit granita once. If not using Pacojet, break up granita with fork just before serving. 25%, whi ch makes it deliciously
Cut fish checkerboard into slices 3 mm / 1/s in thick. rich. Bu t th ere is one problem: it
co ntains waxy este rs that so me-
Arrange three slices on each chilled plate, and season with salt.
tim es ca use gastrointestinal
Top with granita, marinated ogo, and salsa. di stress. Grilling the fi sh renders
Garnish with jicama, cilantro leaves, and passion fruit seeds. out so me of th e offending com-
poun ds with the oil, but we thin k it
Grate roasted candlenuts over fish slices, then drizzle with toasted sesame oil.
is a crime to cook escolar above
body temperature. just don't eat
mo re than 100 grams.
FISH 1 75
TUNA AND ESCOLAR CHECKERBOAR D Yields425 g
Why albacore oryellowfin tuna INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

instead ofbluefin? This recipe does
Escolar 200g 100% (I) Cut into strips 2.5 em by 2.5 em bylO em / 1 in by1 in
not need the richness ofbluefin;
Tuna 200g 100% by4in.
albacore and yellowfin work best.
Moreover, the bluefin tuna popula- (ye llowfin or albaco re) 0 Lay large piece of plastic wrap across work surface .
tion has been decimated by 97% Water 25g 12.5% Combine to form slurry.
since the early 1960s, when Activa RM lOg 5% @) Brush slurry over fish strips.
large-scale commercial fishing
Align and stack alternating red and white strips
began. Bluefin tuna, prized for
quickly to form five-strip-wide, five-strip-high
sashimi, fetched nearly $350 a
checkerboard on plastic wrap.
pound at Tokyo's Tsukiji market in
Wrap checkerboard tightly in plastic wrap, and
january 2010. International efforts
vacuum seal to press strips firmly together.
to ban bluefin fishing failed as
recently as March 2010. 0 Refrigerate fish for at least 4 h to ensure bonding.
For more on using Activa to make patterns such

as this, including a step-by-step procedure, see
pageJ251.

22
ROASTED CANDLENUTS Yields50g
Candlenuts 50g 100% CD Toss nuts in o il. Candlenuts, or kukui nuts, have
Neutral oil 15g 30% 0 Roast nuts in 175 c I 350 F oven until golden brown, such a high oil content-10% to
about8mi n. 15%-that they can be used as
Pat dry of excess oil. cand les . Ancient Hawaiians wou ld
string the large, round nuts along
Salt 0.5g 1% 0 Season, and rese rve in coo l, dry place.
the rib of a palm frond, and
children would be in structed to
light them one at a time. The nuts
are always cooked before eating, as
MARINATED OGO they are mildly toxic when raw.
Yields 25 g
Macadamia nuts or Brazil nuts are
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE possible substitutions.
Ogo seaweed (fresh) 50g 100% CD Refrigerate.
Lime juice 2g 4% 0 Measure and reserve individ uall y.
Mirin 2g 4%
Tamari soy sauce 2g 4%
Toasted sesame oil 2g 4%
SWEET ONION SALSA Yields40g

Sweet onions, brunoise 25g 100% CD Co mb ine.
j alapeno chi li, brunoise 2.5g 10% 0 Refrigerate.
Young ginger, brunoise 2.5g 10%
White soy sauce 5g 20% Measure and reserve individually.
Rice vinegar 3.5 g 14%
PASSION FRUIT GRANITA Yields180 g

Pass ion fruit juice 150g 100% CD Comb ine.
Sugar 20g 13.5% 0 Transfe r to Pacoj et bea ker, and freeze. Alternatively,
Lime juice lO g 6.5% freeze mixture in conta in er, and break it up with fork
Salt 1.5g 1% into flakes periodically as it freezes. Reserve frozen.
f IS H 1 77
PLATED-DISH RECIPES
SHRIMP COCKTAIL 180
LOBSTER AMERICAINE 184
THAI CRAB MIANG 189
PULPO A LA GALLEGA 193
SHELLFISH OMAKASE 197
OYSTER STEW 205
SHELLFISH 179
PASSION FRUIT BROWN BUTTER FLUID GEL Yields450 g
Passion fruit juice 250g 100% CD Combine, and bring to a boil.

Agar 1.35 g 0.54% 0 Pour liquid into beaker set in ice-water bath.
(0.45%)* Blend with immersion blender as gel sets, until
cooled and fluid.
@) Blend into fluid gel.
Strain.
Horseradish, grated 7.S g 3% Blend into fluid gel.
0 Adjust to taste.
For more on making brown butter, see page Brown butter, melted SOg 20% Whiskin .
4213. Malic acid 4.Sg 1.8% Season.
Salt to taste
*(% oftoto/ weight ofoil other ingredients)
182 VOLUME 5 PLATED DISH RECIPES

23
PASSION FRUIT-WHITE SOY SAUCE VINAIGRETTE Yi elds70 g

Pass ion fruit juice 55 g 100% (!) Mix together un til mali c acid is fu ll y disso lved .
White soy sauce 10.5g 19% 0 Reserve.
Lim e juice 7g 13%
jalapeno, brunoise 3g 5.5%
M alic acid 1g 1.8%
SOUS VIDE BABY BEET Yield s375 g

8aby beets, trimmed 250g 100% (!) Vacuu m sea l together.
but not peeled Pressure cooking makes it possible to turn
0 Cook so us vide in 88 c I 190 r bath for 1 h.
Extra-virgin ol ive oil 75 g 30%
tough seeds tender. For more on this
Remove from bag, rese rving jui ces, and rub off beet
Water
technique, see page 3-298.
50g 20% skins with clean kitchen towel.
Salt 3.5g 1.4% @) Vacuu m seal beets and juices.
Refrigerate for at least 2 h befo re se rving.
STEAMED LIVE SPOT PRAWN Yields 720 g

Live spot prawns 720g 100% (!) Steam at90 c l 195 "Fwith 100% humidity for3 min.
(abo ut 12 prawns)
0 Alternatively, vacuum sea l in si ngle eve n layer. Cook
so us vid e in 45 c I 114 r bath fo r 20 min.
Shock in ice-water bath.
@) Peel an d refrige rate.
SHEL LFI SH 183

ASSEMBLY:
Cook lobster tails sous vide in 52 'C I 125 'F bath to core tempera- Foam coconut-lobster emulsion with steam wand of espresso
ture of 51 'C I 123 'F about 10 min. machine (see page 4-391), or heat while whipping with handheld
milk frother until dense, wet foam forms.
While lobster tails are cooking:
Arrange three lobster medallions on each plate, and place one carrot
Reheat mushroom confit at 70 'C I 158 ' F for 10 min.
next to each medallion.
Reheat carrots on stovetop until cooking juices thicken slightly and
Garnish with three mandarin segments, thin slices of mushroom
carrots are warm, about 2 min.
confit, and foam, then finish plate with kinome branches and light
Rest cooked lobster for 2 min, then sear for 10 son each side to
dusting of coconut cream powder.
tighten flesh.
Grate freeze-dried lobster tail on medallions to season (optional).
Cut each tail into three equal medallions, and season.
SHELLFISH STOCK Yields8 00 g

Fo r othe r tim e- tem perature Chicken wings, chopped 500 g 33% CD Roast together at 230 ' C/450 ' F until uniforml y
combinatio ns th at work we ll whe n Ground pork 500 g 33% golden brown, about 25 min, and reserve.
coo king lobste r, see page 3-103.
Dungeness crab (whole) 1.5 kg 100% 0 Crush crab shells and meat into sma ller pi eces.
(abo ut Fry in bottom of pressure cooke r in oi ls until golden,
three med ium) abo ut8 min.
Grapeseed oil 150g 10% @) Remove crab pieces from oil; rese rve crab oil.
Coconut oil 25g 1.7%
Leeks, thinly sliced 250g 17% Fry prepared vegetables together in pressure cooke r
Ca rrots, peeled and 200g 13.5% in crab oil until golden.
thinly sliced Add tomato paste .
Green onions, 150g 10% 0 Continue frying until mi xture is a mber and cooked
thinly sliced tomato flavor develops, abo ut 3 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 150g 10%
Tomato paste 50g 3.5%
Water 1.5 kg 100% Deglaze pressure cooker.
Carrot juice 100 g 7%
(from 250 g
of ca rrots)
Shaoxingwine 82.5g 5.5%
Star anise 1.8g 0.12% Combine; place in sachet.
Black peppercorns 0.8g 0.05% @ Combine pork and chicken mixture, vegetable
Grains of paradise 0.6g 0.04% mixture, and crab pieces in pressure cooker.
Coriander seeds 0.4g 0.03% @ Add sachet, and pressure-cook at a ga uge pressure of
1 bar I 15 psi for 1 h.
Cardamom pod 0.3g 0.02%
@ Strain, and reserve for coconut- lobster emulsion.
GLAZED CARROT Yi elds 120 g
Young carrots (preferably 100g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.

Thumbelina), peeled 0 Cook so us vide in 80 ' C/ 176 ' F bath for40 min.
Carotene butter 20g 20% Cool, remove carrots from bag, and reserve.
For more on how to vacuum-reduce liquids. see Mandarin juice 48g 48% @) Vacuum-reduce (or red uce over heat) to glaze, about
page 2-382. Valencia orange juice 45 g 45% 7min.
Honey 5g 5%
Mandarin essential oil 0.1 g Season glaze.
Salt to taste @ Cool.
0 Vacuum seal carrots with glaze, and refrigerate.

23
A vegetarian version of this dish (above

left) uses only the rust-colored lobster
LOBSTER MUSHROOM CONFIT Yields200 g
mushrooms. which share the plate with the
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE crustacean meat at above right. To prepare
a vegan version, make carotene oil.
lobster mushroom 200g 100% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Carotene butter (or 100g 50% 0 Cook so us vide in 80 "C / 176 "F bath for40 min.
unsalted butter)
Refrigerate.
Salt 4g 2%
The term "lobster mushroom" does

not refer to a mushroom but to
POACHED LOBSTER TAIL Yields240g
Hypomyces lactifluorum, a parasitic
fungus that turns any infected
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE mushroom a lobster- like reddish
orange.
lobster tails 240 g (four tails). 100% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Carotene butter or 100g 42% 0 Refrigerate.
unsalted butter
see page 2365
COCONUT-LOBSTER EMULSION Yields90 g

Shellfish stock, from above 600 g 100% 0 Reduce to 90 g.
0 Cool.
Coconut cream powder 25g 4.2% Whisk into reduced stock.
(store-bought)
White soy sauce to taste @) Season stock. locust bean gum gives body, wh il e
locust bean gum 0.86g 0.15% Mix into stock. whey protein isolate aids in
(0.75%)* Bring to a boil to hydrate and remove from heat. foaming. The combination of the
two yield s a velvety, dense foam.
Whey protein isolate 2.3g 0.4% 0 Whisk into stock until dissolved.
(2%)* Cool.
Refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weight afshellfish stock reduction and coconut cream powder)
SHELL FI SH 1 87
23
THAI CRAB MIANG
Frozen pomelo, puffed crab, Makrud lime
Thailand is famous for its hawker food, homemade specialties sold Miang kham can also be enjoyed in, of all places, a hotel restaurant
from stalls, baskets, and even bikes throughout the country. Surpris- in London's Belgravia district. A version sampled there-dried
ingly, this street food is a relatively new phenomenon in Thailand, shrimp tossed with flaked young coconut and pomelo-was shock-
first appearing in the 1960s, with the arrival of enterprising Chinese ingly good. It was prepared by Australian chef David Thompson at his
immigrants who brought both the concept and many of the flavors. restaurant Nahm-the first Thai eatery to receive a Michelin star.
One savory snack sold on the streets of Bangkok is miang kham, Chef Thompson's miang kham was the inspiration for this version,
which is more of an idea than a specific dish. Bits of a flavorful food, which features a stateside slant that plays on the American populari-
such as dried shrimp or cured pork, are combined with such spicy ty of chips and dip. Serve this with crisp crab crackers. In place of
and fragrant garnishes as ginger, chili, and lime on a betel leaf. The dried shrimp, we use sweet Dungeness crab meat from local waters.
heady mix is dressed with palm syrup and fish sauce, and then the The resulting complexity of flavors in this melange will transport you
leafis wrapped around the filling and eaten in a single bite. to Thailand ... by way of London.

SPE C IAL EQUIPME N T: dehydrator
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: meat slicer, liquid nitrogen
TIME REQUIRED: 8 h overall, including 1~ h preparation and 15 min to assemble
TIME TO
Puffed Crab Crackers 20min 7~ h 5-10s 125 g
Tamarind Paste Smin 30min* 35 g

see page 99
Shellfish Stock 25min l ~ h* 400g

see page 2-297
Crab Oil 5min 1h 15min 400g
MiangPaste 10min 2min 14 g
MiangSyrup 5min 14 g
Frozen Pomelo Cells Smin 3min SOg
Marinated Crab Salad lOmin 1 min 325 g
GARNISH
Betel leaves 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Preheat frying oil for crab to 190 c I 375 p_ Prepare crab salad by dressing crab with pomelo, miang paste,
Pour liquid nitrogen over pomelo segments until frozen, then break miang syrup, and other ingredients.
apart juice cells with spoon (see page 2-462) . Thaw for 20 min at Deep-fry each crab cracker until puffed, 5-10 s. Pat dry.
room temperature. Garnish each plate with three betel leaves.
Place dressed crab salad on leaves, and serve with crackers.
SHELLFI SH 189
PUFFED CRAB CRACKERS Yields125 g
Shellfish stock 400g 100% CD Reduce to 55 g.

see page 2297
0 Cool.
Tapioca starch 150g 37.5% Whisk together with reduced stock to form dough.
Warm water 55g 14%
Store-bought steamed crabmeat Raw crabmeat or prawn 55 g 14% @) Blend with dough in food processor.
works fine in this recipe. If you meat, ground Spread paste on plastic w rap, and roll into cylinder
would rather start with fresh- Salt 7g 2% 5 em I 2 in. in diameter.
picked crab, see the time-
Steam for1 h 10 min.
temperature table for cooking
shellfish so us vide on page 3102. 0 Cool, then refrigerate until rigid, at least 5 h.
Cut into slices 1 mm I lS' in thick, using meat slicer if
available.
Dehydrate slices at 50 "CI 120 "Funtil brittle, about1 h.
@) Store in airtight container at room temperature.
CRAB OIL Yields400g
The shell and liver of all crusta- INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
ceans are highly flavorful. Here, the
shell and liver of the crab infuse the Frying oil 400g 200% CD Deep-fry in 175 "CI 350 "Foil for1 h.
frying oil with both the sweet, Crab shell and liver 200g 100% 0 Strain through fine sieve.
delicious essence and the bright
Cool, then reserve in dry place.
orange pigment of the shellfish.
MIANG PASTE Yields185 g
Galangal. sliced 1 em I 20g 27% CD Fry in dry pan for 2 min on each side.
% in thick
Coconut flakes, roasted 75g 100% 0 Mix all ingredients with galangal.
Peanuts, ro asted 40g 53% Blend mixture to paste using mortar and pestle or food
Lemongrass 30g 40% processor.
Thai chili (fresh) 21 g 28% @) Refrigerate.
Ferm ented shrimp paste Bg 11%

(ga pi), roasted
Makrud lim e leaves 1g 1.5%
Liquid nitrogen freezes pomelo segments
Palm oil 1g 1.5%
into a brittle and glassy state. It is easy to
then separate the juice sacs in the fruit.
1 90 VO LUME 5 PL ATED-D I SH RECIPES

23
MIANG SYRUP Yields220 g

Palm sugar 7Sg 136% CD Simmer together until sugar dissolves.
Fish sauce SSg 100% 0 Adjust season ing to taste.
Water SSg 100%
Tamarind paste 35g 64%
see page 99
FROZEN POMELO CELLS YieldslOOg

Pomelo, peeled 100g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually. The juice sacs can be separated
Liquid nitrogen as needed manually without liquid nitrogen,
but it is tedious work.
MARINATED CRAB SALAD Yields325 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE The pigment from the crab shell is soluble
in fat and imparts a beautiful red hue to
Steamed crabmeat 200g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually.
the oil.
Dungeness pomelo BOg 40%
cells, from above
Miang paste, from above 14g 7%
Miangsyrup, from 14g 7%
above
Coriander stem, minced 6g 3%
Peanuts, roasted 6g 3%
Red shallot, minced 4g 2%
Young ginger, 2g 1%
minced
Lime zest, small dice lg 0.5%
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
SHELLFISH 191
23
PULPO A LA GALLEGA
Chorizo powder, baked potato, black olive
Culinary traditions abound with stories about how to make octopus choices. One is to pound the octopus to tenderize it, sear it so that it is
tender. One popular suggestion is to soak it with wine corks, allegedly still raw inside, then enjoy its natural chewiness. A second approach is
enzyme-rich. Don't bother; this has proven to be a myth. Octopus is to cook it long and hot enough, with enough moisture, to melt the
tough because ofits uniquely designed constrictor muscle (see How collagen into gelatin. Sous vide is the perfect technique for doing just
Muscles Work, page 3-6). Past a certain point of cooking, the collagen that and thus is ideal for cookingpulpo a Ia gallega. Our version is
shrinks and greatly toughens the meat. So really you have two inspired by the classic tapas dish served on hot evenings in Spain.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, dehydrator, whipping siphon, griddle
TIME REQUIRED: 24 h overall (73 h for fresh chorizo), including 4 h preparation and 45 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Cured Chorizo 3Smin 3d* SOOg
optional, see page 3 244
Black Olive Oil 24h* 40g
Chorizo Crisps lSmin 5 h* 40g

(eight slices,
S g each)
Sous Vide Octopus !Omin 4h* lSmin SOOg
Frozen Chorizo Powder 2 h* 2Sg
Hot Smoked Potato Smin Jlh h 200g

see page 3362
Baked Potato Foam !Omin lh lSmin 120g

see page 4-281
Smoked Potato Confit Smin lSmin 250g
GARNISH
Piment6n dulce Sg
Tarragon leaves 12
*(unattended times)
Pulpo a Ia gallega hails from Galicia, Spain.

There, it is called polbo afeira, or "market-
fair-style octopus," because it was often served
at such fairs in the hinterlands.
SHEllFI SH 193
ASSEMBLY:
Warm peeled octopus in 60 oc I 140 op bath for 15 min. While octopus is grilling:
Fill siphon with baked potato foam. Heat siphon in 70 oc I 158 op Sear potato confit until golden.
bath for about 15 min. Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges, Arrange one peeled and one unpeeled octopus leg on each plate
then hold in hot water bath. with potato confit and chorizo crisps.
Add smoked potatoes to same bath, and reheat for 15 min. Grate frozen chorizo with Microplane grater over octopus.
Brush reserved oil onto skin of unpeeled octopus. Garnish each plate with drizzle of black oil, dusting of piment6n
Grill unpeeled octopus on griddle or over coals until deeply charred, dulce, and tarragon leaves.
about 2 min. Season with salt. Dispense baked potato foam on side.
SOUS VIDE OCTOPUS Yields450 g

Octopus legs SOOg 100% 0 Blanch for 30 s to remove slim e.
(e ight legs) 0 Cool in ice-water bath.
0 Vacuum sea l individually.
@) Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 F bath for 4 h.
Cool in bag, in ice-water bath.
Peel sk in offfour octopus legs.
Extra-virgin olive oil SOg 10% 0 Vacuum sea l peeled octopus legs with 25 g of oil.
Vacuum sea l unpeeled legs.
Refrigerate both bags.
@ Reserve remaining 25 g of oil.
Salt 4.5g 1% @ Reserve.
CHORIZO CRISPS Yields200g

Cured chorizo, optional 250 g 100% 0 Slice lengthwise 1 mm I y,. in thick .
see page 3244
N-Zorbit M 50 g 20% 0 Dust evenly with N-Zorbit M; shake off excess.
(National Starch brand) 0 Dehydrate at 45 oc 1 113 F until dry and crisp,
aboutS h.
@) Store in coo l, dry place.
FROZEN CHORIZO POWDER Yields250 g
High-quality, store-bought chorizo Cured chorizo 250g 100% 0 Freeze co mpl ete ly solid, abo ut 2 h in com mercial
can be substituted for home-cured optional, see page 3244 freezer or 5 min with liquid nitrogen.
chorizo. 0 Reserve frozen.

23

BLACK OLIVE OIL Yield s100 g
ADAPTED FROM M I C H EL BRAS

Black olives, pitted 150g 100% <D Dehydrate at 60 c / 140 f for12 h until brittle.
Extra-virgin olive oil 125 g 83% 0 Blend o lives and o il for15 min until oil is black.
Vacuum sea l mi xture.
@) Macerate at room temperature for12 h.
Strain through fine sieve.
Reserve.
SMOKED POTATO CONFIT Yields250 g

Yukon Gold potatoes, 200g 100% <D Cut o ut 3 em by 6 em / 1\4 in by 2\4 in cylind ers using
hot-smoked (four potatoes) rin g cutter.
see page 3362
0 Vacuum sea l together.
Extra-virgin olive oil SOg 50%
Refrigerate until needed.
Salt 1.5 g 1.5%
SHELL FI SH 195
23
SHELLFISH OMAKASE
Crustacean jewels of the Pacific Northwest
In Japan, omakase means "I leave it up to you"-chef's choice. It is a aesthetic harmony, with five colors, five tastes, five senses, five
signal of trust and appreciation. The chef serves one beautifully methods of cooking, and five "outlooks" (including each diner's
presented dish after another, taking into consideration the season, the mind-set). But time recasts traditions, and Japanese restaurants now
ingredients available, and the diner's reactions. If the chef already often use omakase to refer to a fixed-priced tasting menu. The
knows a loyal customer's likes and dislikes, omakase can be a highly collection of preparations here is inspired by the incredible supply of
personal experience. Washoku is the traditional]apanese "way of fresh shellfish we enjoy in the Pacific Northwest. We leave it up to
food." It imbues each omakase meal with nutritional balance and you to decide which of these you like best.

SPEC IA L EQ U IPM ENT: so us vide equipment, carbonation equipment, shabu-shabu pot, blowtorch, dehydrator,
whipping siphon
OPTION A L EQ U IP M EN T: freeze dryer, bincho-tan grill, centrifuge, rotor-stator homogenizer
TIME REQUIRED : 24 h overall, including 5 h preparation and 40 min to cook and finish
TIME TO
Soy Yuba 5min lh 120g
see page 4115
Sous Vide Ponzu 15min lwk* 80g

see page 2313
Freeze-dried Scallop Powder lOmin 24h* 28g

see page 2451
HonDashi 5min 1 h* 550g

see page 2306
Scallop Mochi lOmin 2 h* 60 g (four pieces,

see page 4308 15 g each)
Smoked White Soy Sauce 24h* lOOg
see page 3362
Razor Clam "Takoyaki," with Grey Mullet Bottarga, 20min 2 hand 45 min* 2min 250g
Sea Bean, Mutsu Apple (10 balls, 25 g each)
Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes and Fresh Wasabi 15min 12 h* 2min 200g
Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger, Shiso 20min 20 s lmin 120g
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura 35min lOmin 240g
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame, Ponzu lOmin 5 h* lmin lOOg
Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi 30min 7 min 200g
Bincho-tan-grilled Sea Cucumber, Maitake, 15min 5min 250g

Shisito Pepper
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with 15min 12 h* Smin 500g
Yuba and Enoki
*(unattended times)
SHEL LFISH 197

ASSEMBLY:
For razor clam "takoyaki ": For pen shell clams:
Heat frying oil to 190 oc I 375 F. Dust pen shell clams with scallop powder, and sear in oil over high
Deep-fry takoyaki balls until golden, about 1 min. Set in centers of heat for 1 min.
small bowls. Season with salt, and allow to rest at room temperature.
Toss together apple and sea beans. Deep-fry scallop mochi in 190 oc I 375 op oil until puffed, about
Season with lime juice and salt. 2min.
Garnish with shavings ofbottarga. Season with scallop powder.
Toss Pluot and myoga with small amount of seasoned Pluot juice.
For Shigoku oysters:
Arrange pen shell clams and Pluot slices on each plate.
Remove carbonated grapes from siphon, and place S'/ 2 pieces at
Garnish with scallop mochi.
bottom of each bowl.
Pour additional Pluot juice at table.
Top each bowl with one shucked oyster.
Garnish with wasabi and miso powder. For bincho-tan sea cucumber:
Whip foam until frothy with handheld foaming wand. Preheat bincho-tan charcoal in grill until it burns white-hot.
Dress plate with oyster-juice foam. Brush sea cucumber, maitake mushrooms, and shisito peppers
with oil, and sprinkle with Sansho pepper.
For marinated geoduck:
Grill until cooked through, about 5 min.
Toss Japanese cucumber, scallion, and shiso leaves with young
Arrange grilled foods on plate.
ginger, green chili, lime juice, and rice vinegar.
Season with flaky salt and yuzu kosho.
Adjust seasoning with usukuchi shoyu.
Arrange geoduck and salad on each plate. For abalone and foie gras shabu-shabu:
Finish with smoked salt. Slice abalone, and arrange with foie gras and vegetable garnishes
in bowl.
For spot prawn tempura :
Bring broth to boil, and maintain at simmer in shabu-shabu pot
Blend dry ingredients of tempura batter with cold sake, vodka, and
over portable gas or electric stove.
malt syrup until well mixed.
Warm tosazu (dipping sauce), and blend in foie gras fat to form
Transfer to siphon, and two nitrous oxide cartridges.
loose emulsion.
Dispense batter into bowl.
Serve emulsion on side, and invite guests to dip raw ingredients
Dip lotus root slices into batter to coat evenly.
into warm broth for desired doneness and then briefly into tosazu.
Deep-fry spot prawns and lotus root slices in 190 oc I 375 op oil
Broth is shared among diners after raw ingredients have been eaten.
until crisp and golden, about 2 min.
Arrange on plate, and serve with smoked white soy dipping sauce.
For sea urchin tofu:

Cut sea urchin tofu into 3 em by 8 em I 11!1 in by 31!1 in rectangles,
and arrange on plate.
Toss negi with yuzu juice and toasted-sesame oil,
and arrange on top of tofu.
Pour ponzu around tofu.
1 98
23
RAZOR CLAM "TAKOYAKI " Yields25 0 g(l O balls)
Live razor clams 900g 450% CD Vacuum seal together.
Ginger, thinly sliced Sg 2.5% 0 Steam at 100 c I 212 " F for 6 min.
Scallions, thinly sliced Sg 2.5% Strain clam jui ce, and reserve 50 g.
Sake (dry) 30g 15% @) Shuck clams, reserving any additional juice.
Mince clam meat, an d reserve.
Tokyo negi (Japanese leek), 225g 112.5% Sweat until tender, about 3 min.
finely minced
Unsalted butter, cubed 40g 20%
Heavy cream 150g 75% 0 Add, and bring to a simmer.
Clam juice, from above SOg 25% Strain, and measure 200 g of clam cream.
Refrigerate until co ld.
Clam cream, from above 200g 100% @ Whisk into cold clam cream, and bring to simmer to hydrate.
Salt 4g 2% @ Puree with imm ers ion blender over ice-water bath to form fluid gel.
Low acyl gellan (Gellan F, 0.3g 0.15% @ Fold in reserved minced clam meat.
CP Kelco brand)
@ Pipe mixture into spherical silicone molds 2 em I :Y.. in. in diameter.
Iota carrageenan 0.4g 0.2%
@ Freeze until gel balls are hardened, at least 45 min.
Utra-Sperse 3 1g 0.5%
Water, boiling SOg 25% @ Disperse methylcel lul ose into boi ling water, blending constantly.
Methocel K100M 0.25g 0.125% @ Coo l and reserve.
(Dow brand)
Batter BindS SOg 25% @ Dust over bal ls.
@ Whip methylcellulose mixture into stiff foam.
@ Dip dusted balls into foam to fully cover surface.
Panko, finely ground SOg 25% @ Roll coated balls in panko.
@ Dip the bread ed balls in the methylcellulose foam and panko once more.
@ Refrigerate to firm crust, at least 2 h.
Mutsu apple, batons 20g 10% @ Measure and rese rve individually.
Grey mullet bottarga lOg 5%
Sea beans, blanched lOg 5%
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
SHIGOKU OYSTER WITH FIZZY GRAPES, Yields300 g
FRESH WASABI, AND MISO POWDER

Shiro miso 150g 125% (!) Dehydrate at 45 c I 113 f for 12 h.

0 Grind to fi ne powder, and rese rve.
Shigoku oysters (or 120g 100% 0 Shuck, rese rving juice.
Kumamoto) (12 oyste rs) 0 Clean thoroughly.
Refrigerate oysters.
Strain juice, and measure 40 g.
Muscat grapes 120g 100% 0 Blanch forlO s.
Shock in ice water.
Peel, and halve through stem end.
Verjuice (store-bought) 50g 42% @ Combine.
Rice wine vinegar 5g 4% @ Pour over peeled grapes.
Salt lg 0.8% @ Place gra pes and juice into siphon.
@ Charge with two cartridges of ca rbo n dioxid e at least
5 h befo re se rvice, and refrigerate.
Wasabi (fresh) 8g 6% @ Grate finely, a nd reserve.
Oyster juice, from above 40g 33% @ Co mbin e.
Verjuice 30g 25% @ Blend until smooth.
It's hard not to poke fun at the
geoduck, with its tiny clam shell, Sucrose esters (Sucro, 0.7g 0.58% @ Refrigerate.
huge phallic neck, and ridiculous Texturas brand) (7%)*
name-until you 've tasted it. *(% oftotal weig ht ofoysterjuice ond sour grope juice)
This is a delicacy in japan that can
command $30 a pound. Others
have tried and failed to cu ltivate the
largest burrowing clam in the
world, which can live to be 150
years old. Here in its native Pacific
MARINATED GEODUCK, YOUNG GINGER, SHISO Yields255 g
Northwest, we are lucky that we INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

can get them at Asian supermar-
Live geoduck 400 g 100% (!) Bla nch for 20 si n boiling water.
kets. The name (p ronoun ced
"gooey duck") comes from the (one medium) 0 Shock in ice wate r.
Nisqually Indian name gwe-dek, or 0 Peel off outer me mbran e, and clean sto mach away
"d ig deep." from neck of clam.
0 Slice siphon 2 mm I X in thi ck on diagonal to yie ld
abo ut 200 g.
Refrigerate.
Japanese cucumber, 35g 8 .75% Measure and reserve individually.
thinly sliced
Scallions, white only, lO g 2.5%
thinly sliced
Young ginger, julienne 4g 1%
Shiso leaves, chiffonade 4g 1%
Green chili, julienne 2g 0.5%
Lime juice to taste
Rice vinegar to taste
Smoked Japanese salt to taste
Usukuchi shoyu to taste
Geoduck should be
peeled before use.
200
SPOT PRAWN AND LOTUS ROOT Yie lds 600 g
TEMPURA WITH SMOKED WHITE SOY SAUCE
Shrimp meat 150g 75% CD Blend to fine paste.
Lard 15g 7.5%
japanese potato starch lOg 5% The shrimp paste is de li cio us whe n
Egg yolk 8g 4% used for making other fritte rs o r as
Egg white 7g 3.5% a fi lling for du mp lings.
Sake 7g 3.5%
White soy sauce 7g 3.5%
Ginger, mashed to paste 2g 1%
Salt 2g 1%
Young lotus roots, 90g 45% 0 Fill cavities of lotus root with shrimp paste.
peeled and sliced 1 em I
Chill for 30 min until firm.
% in thick
Live spot prawns 200g 100% @) Peel.
(four prawns) Refrigerate.
Sake 150g 75% Blend flour, rice flour, and baking powder; reserve.
Vodka 112g 56% 0 Refrigerate sake, vodka, and malt syrup separately.
All-purpose flour lOOg 50%
Rice flour lOOg 50%
Malt syrup 12g 6%
Baking powder 3g 1.5%
Smoked white soy sauce lOOg 50% Reserve.
see page 3362
SHELLF I SH 2 01
Yields400 g
SEA URCHIN TOFU, TOKYO NEGI, SESAME, PONZU
I NSPIRED BY YOSH IHIR O MURATA
Hon dashi 200g 100% 0 Disperse gelatin and agar in co ld dashi.

see page 2306
0 Boil for 3 min to fully hydrate agar.
160 Bloom gelatin 3.6 g 1.8%
(0.9%)*
Agar 0.4g 0.2%
(0.7%)*
Sea urchin tongues 200g 100% 0 Blend into hot dashi.
@ Cast imm ed iately into nonstick mold to create layer
3 em / 1Y.. in thick.
Refrigerate until gelatin is fully set, at least 5 h, before
serving.
Tokyo negi, th inly sliced 40 g 13.3% Measure an d reserve individually.
So us vide ponzu 80 g 26.6%
see page 2313
Yuzu juice 8g 2.6%
Toasted-sesame oil Sg 1.6%
*(% oftotal weightafdashi and sea urchin tongues)
PEN SHELL CLAM, PLUOT, MYOGA, SCALLOP MOCHI Yields650 g

The Pluot is a cross between a plum 200% (I) juice.
Pluots (or red plums) 400g
and an apricot. The first successful
engineered cross, the plumcot, was
0 Clarify juice using preferred method.
created in the late 1800s and exper- 0 Measure 200 g.
im ented with throughout the Malic acid 2g 1% @ Season juice.
1980s. But growers found it temper- White soy sauce to taste Refrigerate.
amenta l, and consumers were
Pen shell clams, shucked 200g 100% Measure and refrigerate.
buying fewer plums. Enter the
Pluot: a sweet, intensely flavorful Scallop mochi 60 g (four pieces, 0 Measure and reserve individually.
new hybrid, mostly plum-but w ith see page 4308 15 g each)
an unblemished name. Freeze-dried scallop 28g 14%
powder, optional,
see page 2451
For more on clarification and filtration Ginger oil 20g 10% Measure and reserve individually.
methods, see page 2-352. see page 2310
Dinosaur Pluot, thinly 20g 10%
sliced (or red plum)
Myoga, fine julienne 12g 6%
202
23
BINCHO-TAN-GRILLED SEA CUCUMBER, Yields250 g
MAITAKE MUSHROOM, SHISITO PEPPER
Bincho-tan charcoal as needed G) Reserve.
Live sea cucumber 160g 100% 0 Peel skin, and discard innards. Reserve only white
meat from inner core.
Refrigerate.
Matsutake mushrooms, 120g 75% 0 Measure and reserve individually.
peeled
Shisito peppers BOg 50%
Large flaky salt to taste
(such as Maldon)
Sansho pepper, to taste
finely ground
Yuzu kosho (store-bought) to taste
ABALONE AND FOIE GRAS SHABU-SHABU Yields900 g

WITH YUBA AND ENOKI
Abalone 120 g 100% G) Steam at 100 oc l 212 Ffor12 h. Alternatively, vacuum
sea l, and cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 F bath for 16 h.
0 Reserve.
Raw foie gras 120g 100% Cut into sli ces 3 mm I X. in thick.
0 Refrigerate.
Soy yuba 120g 100% Measure and reserve.
see page 4115
Enoki mushroom 60g 50% Cut from stem into individual mushrooms.
Pea vines BOg 66.6% 0 Select tender leaves and tips, and refrigerate.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300g 250% Sweat onions until very tender, abo ut 30 min. Of the world 's nearly 100 species
Rendered foie gras fat 70g 58% of abalone, green and wh ite are the
most prized for their tenderness
Hon dashi 350 g 292% Deglaze onions, and simme r for 30 min to make
see page 2306 and flavor. White aba lone is on
sha bu-shabu broth.
the verge of extinction, however. It
@ Strain. was the first marine invertebrate
@ Ce ntrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h. placed on the U.S. endangered-
@ Cool and refrigerate. species list.
Soy sauce 120 g 100% @ Combine to make tosazu (dipp ing sauce).
Mirin 50g 41.7% @ Refrigerate.
Agave syrup 24g 20%
Rice vinegar 20g 17%
Foie gras fat or unsalted BOg 66.7% @ Measure and refrigerate.
butter
Americans don't give them much thought, but in japan sea

cucumbers have inspired thousands of haiku. They're thick
and knobby, yes, but they're not vegetables. Rather, these
firm gelatinous creatures bump brainlessly along the
seafloor. When sli ced, they have a slippery texture and are
thought to possess a variety of health benefits, which
scientists are now beginning to study.
23
OYSTER STEW
Milk skin, salsify, grilled avocado, lemon balm
Almost anywhere in the world oysters are shucked and slurped, you translucent tapioca, a nod to French Laundry chef Thomas Keller's
will find a stew or soup based on them. Living as we do in the signature dish "oyster and pearls." Briny oyster consomme is poured
Pacific Northwest, bounded by water, we would be remiss not to over the mix. Savory skins of milk float like a veil on top. A fondant
add one more. of salsify-a wildflower with a long, oyster-flavored root-deepens
This deconstructed version of oyster stew showcases oysters the flavor and delivers a creamy texture of melting sauce. Dots of
escabeche marinated in vinegar. The oysters are served in a bowl with avocado puree, flamed like creme brulee, finish the dish.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment, blowtorch
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: vacuum filtration equipment
TIME REQUIRED: 3 h overall, including 35 min preparation and 45 min to finish
TIME TO
White Vegetable Stock lOmin 45 min* 425 g

see page 2 296
Clam Juice 4min ISO g

Oyster Escabeche Smin lOmin* 4Smin 12 oysters
Oyster Consomme lOmin 30 min and 2 h* 300g
Milk Skin (or Soy Yuba) 30min 60g

see page 4114 or page 4115
Salsify Fondant Smin 1 h* lOOg
Pickled Tapioca Pearl 20min lOOg
Avocado Puree Smin lmin lSOg
GARNISH
Lemon balm leaves 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Marinate oysters in reserved escabeche mixture for 45 min, Arrange cold salsify fondant, oysters, and milk skin or yuba on
refrigerated. each plate.
Garnish with lemon balm leaves.
While oysters finish marinating:
Pour cold oyster consomme at table.
Pipe dots of avocado puree onto each plate. Char lightly with
blowtorch.
SHELLFISH 205
OYSTER ESCABECHE Yie lds 12 pieces
Virg inica oyste rs, 12 oyste rs <D Shu ck, rese rve 50 g of juices for co nso mm e and 40 g
or simila r for t he pick led ta pioca pea rls. Clean them we ll.
0 Vacuum sea l oyste rs, then poach so us vide in 45 c I
113 "F bath fo r10 min .
0 Coo l in ice-wate r bath, a nd refrigerate.
Extra-virgin o live o il 4Sg 100% @) Combine.
lim e juice 24g 53% Refrigerate.
Sweet o nions, fin ely 12 g 27%
minced
White wine vinega r 6g 13%
Bird 's eye c hili, thinly 0 .8g 1.8%
sli ced
Bay leaf, julie nn e 0 .2g 0.4%
Salt to taste
OYSTER CONSOMME Yie lds300g
Cla rifie d unsalted butte r 95 g 95% <D Sa ute prepared vegetab les togethe r until fragrant a nd
Scallions, thinly sli ced 20g 20% scall ions are translu ce nt, abo ut 7 min.
Ginge r, peeled a nd thinly ll g 11%

sli ced
Gala nga l, peele d a nd 9g 9%
thinly sliced
White vegeta ble stock 425 g 425% 0 Add to sca lli o n mi xture, a nd mi x.
see page 2296 0 Red uce to 30 0 g, a bo ut 15 min .
Roasted co conut juice 100g 100%
@) Stra in.
(store- bo ught)
Cool.
Cla m juice 150g 150 %
see page 2344
Sa ke (dry) llOg 110%
l e mo ng rass, thinly sliced 20g 20%
Cila ntro leaves a nd ste ms Sg 5% Ad d to stra in e d liqui d .
Ma krud (kaffir) lim e leaf 2g 2% 0 Steep in refrigera torfor2 h.
For other suitable clarification techniques, O yste r juice, from a bove SOg 50 % Stra in infused li q uid, a nd season.
see page 2-352. For more on clarifying butter, lim e juice to taste Clarify w ith vacuum fil ter.
see page 4-213. to taste @ Refr ige rate.
Salt
206 VOLUME 5 PLATED-D I SH REC I PES

SALSIFY FONDANT
23
Yie lds100 g
Salsify, peeled and cut 100g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
into 5 em I 2 in lengths 0 Cook so us vide in 95 c I 203 F bath for 1 h.
Extra-virgin olive oil 20g 20% Cool and refrigerate.
Water 15 g 15%
Lime juice 1.5g 1.5%
Salt lg 1%
PICKLED TAPIOCA PEARL Yields200 g

Tapioca pearls lOOg 100% CD Combine.
Water 200g 200% 0 Simmer until pearls are tender and translucent,
about20 min.
Drain.
Rice wine vinegar llOg 110% 0 Combine to make brine.
Oyster juice, from above 40g 40% Mix together brine and cooked tapioca pearls.
Sugar 15g 15% Vacuum seal, a nd refrigerate.
Lime juice lOg 10%
Salt 3g 3%
AVOCADO PUREE YieldslSO g

ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
Hass avocado 140g 100% CD Puree until smooth .
Ultra-Sperse 5 5g 3.6% 0 Transfer to squeeze bottle, and refrigerate.
(Natio nal Starch brand)
Ascorbic acid 1.4g 1%
Lim e juice 1.4 g 1%
Salt to taste
SHELLFI SH 20 7
PLATED-DISH RECIPES
24
THE BREAKFAST EGG 211
MUSHROOM OMELET 215
OEUFS EN MEURETTE 219
An ultrahigh-speed camera shows what a

glorious mess you can make with a gun, a
bullet. and some eggs.
EGGS 209
24
THE BREAKFAST EGG
Fried egg foam, sweet spices, coffee butter
Chef Alain Passard is one of the masters of contemporary French savory whipped cream, sherryvinegar,jleur de sel, and maple syrup.
cuisine and a high-profile proponent of the farm-to-table movement. Let your spoon sink to the bottom of the egg, and pull in all the
He is famous for many of his dishes, but perhaps his most famous flavors at once: tart, sweet, sharp, deep. You could eat this egg every
creation isn't a dish at all-it's an amuse-bouche. day and never tire of it.
For years, every meal at his restaurant in Paris has begun the Inspired by Passard's egg, we present a version that tips toward
same way: with the L'Arpege egg. Chefs are forever trying to outdo the classic American breakfast offried eggs and bacon. Instead of
each other's amuse-bouche, but this egg has earned a permanent creme fraiche, we blend cream and fried egg white to a fine puree,
place on Passard's menu. then whip it into a foam. Smoked syrup hints at the woodsy flavor of
To create the L'Arpege egg, Passard cuts off the top of an egg- bacon. And, because not everyone has Passard's sense for when a
shell and drains the white. Then he floats the egg in a warm-water warm water bath is heated just right, we've provided the temperature
bath until the yolk has the consistency of custard; sprinkles on that yields a perfect pudding texture every time.
chives, clove, nutmeg, white pepper, and ginger; and tops it off with

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, whipping siphon
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: handheld rotary grinder (Dremel)
TIME REQUIRED: 4 h 20 min overall, including 35 min preparation and 20 min to assemble
TIME TO
Coffee Butter 2min 4h* 3min 40g
Fried Egg Foam lSmin 3min lSmin 200g
Sweet Spice Blend lOmin 6g
Compressed Green Apple Smin 8g
Egg Yolk Confit Smin 4Smin lSmin 80 g
GARNISH
Smoked maple syrup (store-bought) 20g
Flaky sea salt to taste

Brioche, cut into soldiers 3min 2min 80g
1 em by 1 em by 7 em / 3/s in by 3fs in by 23,4 in (eight soldiers)
*(unattended times)
EGGS 211
ASSEMBLY:
Charge egg-cream-filled siphon with two nitrous oxide cartridges. Once eggs are warmed:
Warm siphon and bag of egg yolk confit in 62 c I 144 p bath, Pipe 20 g of egg yolk confit into bottom of each eggshell.
about 15 min. Season with sweet spice blend, and top with small spoon of com-
pressed apple.
While eggs are reheating:
Shake siphon thoroughly, and dispense fried egg foam up to edge of
Remove green apple planks from bag and dice finely.
each eggshell.
Heat eggshells in 100 c I 210 p oven for 5 min, using egg crate to
Finish with smoked maple syrup and salt, and serve with brioche
hold them upright.
soldiers on side.
Warm coffee butter, and strain to remove beans.
Panfry brioche soldiers in coffee butter until golden brown on both
sides, about 2 min total.
COFFEE BUTTER Yields125 g

For mo re on extracting flavors using Roasted coffee beans, 175 g 100% CD Seal together in Mason jar, and steam for 4 h.
butter and other fats, see page whole Alternatively, vacuum sea l, and cook so us vid e in
2328. Unsalted butter 125 g 71 % 90 c / 195 F bath for4 h.
0 Refrigerate.
FRIED EGG FOAM Yields220g

Egg whites 60g 100% CD Fry egg whites until gold en brown.
Grapeseed oil 30g 50% 0 Drain oil, pat dry, and reserve.
160 Bloom gelatin 2.4g 4% Disperse ge latin in cold cream.
Heavy cream 130 g 217% @ Bring to a simm er to dissolve ge lati n fully.
Blend in fried egg whites.
Salt to taste Season egg-cream mixture.
Black pepper, ground to taste 0 Press through fin e sieve, and transfer to 1 I siphon.
to fine powd er Refrigerate.
Removing the shell from around the
assembled egg reveals its distinct layers.
COMPRESSED GREEN APPLE YieldsSOg
Green apple SOg 100% CD Cut into planks 3 mm I Ya in thick.

For more on vacu um-compressing Green apple vinegar 1.5 g 3% 0 Vacuum sea l planks and vinegar to co mpress.
fruits and vegetab les, see page (or other sweet Refrigerate.
3391. white vinegar)
SWEET SPICE BLEND Yields25 g

Star anise, toasted lOg 100% CD Mix together.

and ground 0 Vacuum sea l, and reserve.
Dried ginger, ground 4g 40%
Vanilla bean seeds and 4g 40%
pulp
Black pepper, ground 3g 30%
Cinnamon, toasted 3g 30%
and ground
Nutmeg, ground l .Sg 15%

24
Although an egg topper can remove the top of the shell,

a Dremel tool and razor blade yield a more precise cut.
EGG YOLK CONFIT Yields80g

Egg yolks, blended 80g 100% <D Vacuum sea l.
0 Cook so us vide in 67 "C I 153 "Fbath for 45 min. If prepared as directed here, the
Coo l and refrigerate. egg yo lks are fully pasteurized. See
Eggshells four shells page 1-184 for more information on
100% @) Remove top fifth of each she ll with handheld rotary
foo d safety co nsiderations.
grind er (Dremel), egg topper, or razor-sharp knife.
Empty eggs, and clean shell interiors.
Straighten and smooth edges using grinder, and wash
residual powder from shells.
0 Dry she ll s in 100 "C/ 210 "F oven for10 min.
Reserve.
EGGS 213
24
MUSHROOM OMELET
Mushroom marmalade, scrambled eggfoam,fine herbs
The secret to perfectly cooked eggs has always been temperature with a smooth and lightened version of French-style scrambled
control. That ultimate test of skill and dexterity for a classically eggs. We add a mushroom marmalade, flavored with fine herbs
trained chef-mastering eggs-is made easier with modern technol- (chives, tarragon, parsley, and chervil), roll it up, and glaze it with
ogy. Some of the world's best restaurants now have an amazing sous clarified butter. Adding stripes of mushroom or truffle puree makes
vide poached egg on the menu. The egg white is soft, the yolk is like this omelet as stunning in appearance as flavor. But this recipe does
custard; it is a texture previously unachievable in cooked eggs. not have to be fancy or fussy; leave out the stripes, and it is still
Accurate temperature control, a hallmark of Modernist cooking, unbelievably delicious. As simple as it seems, this may be our
transforms the omelet. This omelet is wafer-thin. The inside is filled favorite recipe in the book.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, combi oven or water-vapor oven, whipping siphon
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: pastry comb
TIME REQUIRED : 2 h overall, including 10 h ofpreparation, and 15 min to reheat and finish
TIMETO
Mushroom Stock, optional Smin 11-1 h* 330g

see page 129
Brown Chicken Jus 20min 1 h* 20g

see page 2344
Scrambled Egg Foam Smin SO min lSmin 200g
Mushroom Puree Smin 30min 330g
Omelet Base Smin 3min 3min 170 g
Mushroom Marmalade 30min 2Smin Smin 35 g
GARNISH
Clarified brown butter 20g

see page 4213
Chive blossoms 40
optional
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat egg-filled siphon in 70 c I 158 p water bath for IS min Heat clarified brown butter to 90 c I 195 p.
if necessary. Reheat omelet base squares in 82 c I 180 p combi oven with
Charge warmed siphon with one nitrous oxide cartridge, and shake 100% humidity for 3 min, or reheat in CVap at same temperature
vigorously to disperse gas. with Browning set to 0. While omelets are still on baking sheet,
dispense line of scrambled egg foam down centers.
While siphon is heating:
Spoon marmalade in line next to scrambled egg foam.
Warm mushroom marmalade, about S min, and add herbs just
Fold over omelet gently. Brush with hot brown butter.
before plating.
Place on plates, and garnish with chive blossoms.
EGG S 215
SCRAMBLED EGG FOAM Yields200 g
Eggs, blended 100g 100% CD Blend together.

Egg yolks 40g 40% 0 Vacuum seal.
Unsalted butter, melted JOg JO% Cook so us vide in 72 c / 162 F bath until texture is
co nsistency of light pastry cream, about 25 min.
Whole milk JOg JO%
@) Cool, then refrigerate if using later. If using
Salt 2g 2%
imm ediately, pour into 11 whipping siph on, charge
with one cartridge of nitrous oxide, and keep warm.
Stripes of mushroom puree make MUSHROOM PUREE OPTIONAL Yields J30 g

for a visually stunning omelet, but INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
skipping this step greatly simplifies
the recipe and saves nearly an hour Mushrooms, thinly sliced 500 g 100% CD Saute mushrooms until golden, about 10 min.
of effort. Also, omitting the stripes (morel, porcini, shiitake,
does not take away from what or chanterelle)
makes this omelet special: the Clarified unsalted butter 60 g 12%
remarkable texture. Truffle Shallots, minced 100g 20% 0 Add to sauteed mushrooms, and cook over low heat
concentrate (see page 2427) is until very tender, about 20 min. Portobello gills will
a decadent substitute for the Porto bello mushroom 40g 8%
gills, spooned out darken mixture.
mushroom puree.
Water JJOg 66% Deglaze pan of mushrooms.
@) Simmerfor1 min .
Salt 7g 1.4% Blend mushroom mixture to fine puree.
(j) Season with sa lt, and reserve.
These photos illustrate the Omelet Base
procedure on the next page.
2 3
216 VO LU ME 5 PL ATE D DIS H RECIP ES

24
OMELET BASE Yields300 g

Eggs 145g 100% CD Blend thoroughly to create egg base, and reserve.
Heavy cream 15g 10.3%
Egg yolks 12g 8.3%
Salt 2.5g 1.7%
Mushroom puree, from 100g 69% Combine, and spread onto silicone mat in layer
above 20 em I 8 in square and 2 mm I X in thick.
Egg yolk powder 15.5g 10.7% Pull pastry comb with 3 mm I Ys in teeth through
Heavy cream 10.3g 7.1 % mushroom puree mixture to create even lines. Pastry combs are usually used to
If pastry comb is unavailable, proceed to step 4. decorate biscuit joconde and other
Albumin powder, 8.8g 6%
0 Pour egg base evenly over lines, 2 mm I X in thick. sponge cakes. Here we use it to
store-bought
make an omelet with stripes that
Salt 1.7 g 1.1% Steam in 82 c I 180 F combi oven with 100%
penetrate all the way from front to
humidity (or in a CVap set similarly), until set, about back.
3min.
Cut into four 5 em I 2 in squares.
MUSHROOM MARMALAD E Yields 35 g

INGRED IENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Mushrooms, thin ly 80g 100% CD Cook over very low heat until tender and liquid Use morel, porcini, shiitake, or
sliced and diced has evaporated, about 25 min. chanterelle mushrooms.
Shall ots, finely minced 60g 75%
Clarified unsalted butter 30g 37.5%
Brown chicken jus 20g 25% Season mixture.
see page 2344
Refrigerate.
Black pepper, ground to taste
Sa lt to taste
This marmalade will keep for
Chervil, fine ly minced 2g 2.5% 0 Prepare herbs as noted. several weeks refrigerated. It is
Ch ives, finely mi nced 2g 2.5% Comb ine and refrigerate. worth scaling up the recipe to
Parsley, finely minced make a larger quantity, as the
2g 2.5%
marmalade is a versatile condiment
Tarragon, finely m inced 1g 1.25% to have on hand.
EGGS 2 17
24
OEUFS EN MEURETTE
Constructed pinot noir_, crispy eggshell, traditional accompaniments
Eggs are one of the best dishes to illustrate sous vide and other butter, they are a vigneron's delight after a long day of harvest.
low-temperature cooking techniques. Proper control of temperature Our rendition of the dish takes advantage of some great insights
is essential to cooking eggs because the proteins in the yolk and from the Modernist pantry. We construct our red wine sauce from
white have very specific responses to heat, as discussed on page 474. a puree of blackberries and blueberries cooked sous vide, and we
To showcase how these techniques provide that control, we devel- tailor the nuances of the "wine" to suit our dish. Malic and tartaric
oped several egg dishes for the book, including this updated ap- acid provide sharpness, olive brine and shaved oak chips add
proach to the Burgundian country classic oeujs en meurette. depth, and tannin powder supplies balance. A mixture of red port
Typically, the eggs are poached in a red wine sauce seasoned and beet juice stain the poached egg to create a dramatic mottled
with shallots and aged wine vinegar. Served with bacon lardons, purple pattern, akin to Chinese tea eggs. We hope you find the dish
pearl onions, button mushrooms, and cubes of bread fried in beautiful and inspiring.

SPECI A L EQ U IPME N T: sous vide equipment
TIME REQUIR ED: 14 h overall, including 2 h preparation and 20 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO

Cured Bacon 2SOg
Bacon Chips lOmin 2 h* and 14 h* lOOg
Liquid Center Duck Egg lOmin 1 h* and 12 h* IS min four eggs
Preserved Cinnamon Cap Mushrooms 2min 7 min 30g
Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onions Smin 20 h* 6min SOg
Constructed Red Wine Glaze IS min 1 h* 2min 6Sg
Brioche Toast 2min four slices
GARNISH
Chive sprigs four
Chervil leaves four

*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat eggs in 62 oc I 143 op bath for about 15 min. Fry until golden in nonstick pan, about 1 min on each side.
While eggs are reheating: Season with salt.
Reheat pearl onions in 62 oc I 144 op bath for 5 min. Warm wine glaze, and whisk in cold butter. Taste for salt
Remove from bag, dry on paper towels, and cut in half lengthwise. and acidity.
Sear in thin film of oil over high heat for 20 s. Arrange egg in center of each bowl, and season with flaky sea salt.
Season with black pepper and salt. Garnish with mushrooms, bacon chips, and glazed onions.
Brush brioche slices with butter, and dust with albumin powder. Finish with herbs, and top eggs with brioche toasts.
Pour constructed wine glaze over eggs at table.
EGG S 219
BACON CHIPS Yields100g
Maple syrup SOg 20% <D Simmer together until dissolved.

Water SOg 20% Cool syrup.
lsomalt 25g 10%
Sorbitol 1g 0.4%
Cured bacon, sliced 250g 100% Soak bacon sli ces in syrup in refrigerator for 2 h.
1 mm / X in thick @) Dehydrate at 60 oc / 140 Funtil crisp, 12-14 h.
store- bought or see page 3-182
Store chips in coo l, dry place.
LIQUID CENTER DUCK EGG Yields340g
Duck eggs 320g 100% <D Imm erse w hole egg in boilingwaterfor4 min.
The egg w hite needs more heat to (fo ur eggs) Cool in ice-water bath for 20 min.
coagulate than the yo lk does, so
first use boiling water to set the Cook in 62 oc / 143 Fbath forabout30 min.
w hite firmly enough that it ca n be @) Coo l aga in in ice-water bath.
peeled later. Then use a low Crack eggs hells gently all ove r with back of spoo n,
temperature water bath to cook the but do not remove shells.
center. If substituting chicken eggs,
Reserve.
w hich usually are smaller than duck
eggs, you may need to reduce the Red beet juice 800g 250% 0 Combine, red uce to 750 g, and coo l.
initial boiling time to 3-3Y, min. Red port wine 350 g 109% Imm erse eggs in red uction, and soak in refrigerator
for12 h.
Drain, then ge ntly peel off eggshe lls.
@ Refrigerate eggs.
Flaky sea salt to taste @ Rese rve.
PRESERVED CINNAMON CAP MUSHROOMS Yields SO g
Cinnamon cap SOg 100% <D Cut into individu al caps .

mushrooms
Frying oil as needed Deep-fry mushroom caps in 175 oc / 350 Foil until
lightly gold en, abo ut 7 min.
Drain on paper towels.
@) Vacuum sea l caps with 50 g of coo led oil.
Salt to taste Season and refrigerate.
2 20 VO LUM E 5 PL ATED-DIS H RE CI PES

24
SOUS VIDE GLAZED PEARL ONIONS Yields 50 g
Pearl onions 50g 100% CD Blanch for1 min.
0 Shock in ice-water bath.
Peel.
Water 20g 40 % @ Combine.
Extra-virgin olive oil 5g 10% Vacuum seal with onions.
Black pepper to taste Cook sous vide in 90 ' C/ 194 ' F bath for2 '/2 h.
Salt to taste 0 Coo l in ice-water bath.
Refrigerate in so us vide bag.
Neutral oil as needed Rese rve.
Salt to taste
BRIOCHE TOAST Yields 50 g

Brioche, cut into four 50 g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually.
slices in desired shapes
Clarified unsalted butter 20 g 40%
Albumin powder 5g 10%
Salt to taste
CONSTRUCTED RED WINE GLAZE Yields 65 g

Fresh blackberries 100g 100% CD Vacuum seal.
Fresh blueberries 50g 50% 0 Cook so us vide in 65 ' C I 149 ' F bath for 1 h.
Cool and puree.
Verjuice (store-bought) 50g 50% Blend well with 50 gofberry puree.
Kalamata olive brine (from 2g 2.0 % Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
store bought olives)
Tannin powder(Obipektin 1.5g 1.5%
brand Enocianin-A)
Tartaric acid 1g 1.0%
Fructose 0.5g 0.5%
Oak chips, grated 0.25g 0.25%
Malic acid 0.2g 0.2%
Salt to taste
Unsalted butter, cold 5g 5% 0 Refrigerate.
222
PLATED-D I SH RECIPES
25
COCOA TAJARIN 225
SPAGHETTI ALLE VONGOLE 229
RUSSIAN PELMENI 233
PAELLA VALENCIANA 239
ASTRONAUT RAMEN 247
SHANGHAI SOUP DUMPLINGS 253
STARCHES 223
25
COCOA TAJARIN
Bitter cocoa, Pacific sea urchin, pink grapefruit
In Italy, a pasta maker will tell you that spaghetti alia bolognese can't served drenched in butter and wafted with white truffle shavings or
exist. Ask why, and he will point to a map: the ragu comes from sage. Pasta makers take pride in their ability to hand-cut tajarin (one
Bologna in northern Italy; the spaghetti is from southern Italy-thus Piedmont restaurant owner calls himself"the man with the golden
the two cannot be served together. No, ragu alia bolognese must be arm"). The noodles taste silky and rich, thanks to the fat in the egg
served with eggy tagliatelle noodles that are the specialty of the yolks. More than 25% of each yolk's weight is fat. This just so hap-
Emilia-Romagna region, where Bologna is located. pens to be true of cocoa powder, too. Cocoa fat melts wonderfully,
Each region covets its specialty. In the far northern Piedmont becoming a smooth, warm, and rich oil over a narrow temperature
region, it's tajarin, known elsewhere in Italy as taglierini. True range right at body temperature. Replacing some of the flour in the
tajarin, however, has a higher egg yolk content than taglierini. The noodles with cocoa powder gives them the richness of traditional
long, exquisitely thin noodle, made golden with egg yolk, is often tajarin, but with a particularly nice melt-in-your-mouth feel.

TIME REQUIRED: 13 h overall, including 12 h to rest noodle dough. If making sea urchin bottarga, 90 d overall,
including 1 h 5 min to prepare and 5 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Sea Urchin Bottarga 20min SO min and 90 d* 60g

optional
Pink Grapefruit Confit 30min 4 h* 60g
Cocoa Tajarin 10 min and 12 h* 1min 400g
Sea Urchin Butter Smin 10min 3min 150 g
GARNISH
Grapefruit juice sacs 100 g

see page 2462
Black pepper, cracked 10 g
Tarragon leaves, cut into small squares 12
Sea urchin tongues four
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Heat sea urchin butter reduction to a simmer, then blend in Arrange tajarin on plates, and pour sea urchin butter over pasta.
sea urchin tongues and butter until fully emulsified. Garnish with grapefruit droplets, grapefruit confit dice, and
Season with pink grapefruit syrup, salt, and lime juice. black pepper.
Melt cocoa butter. Finish with tarragon, sea urchin tongues, and grated
Cook tajarin in boiling 3% salt water for 40 s. sea urchin bottarga.
Drain, and toss with warm cocoa butter. Pour sea urchin butter at the table.
STARCHES 225
SEA URCHIN BOTTARGA Yi elds150 g
Sea urchin "to ngues" are call ed that Sea urch in tongues 200g 100% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
because of their app earance. They 0 Form sous vide bag into cone to mimic fish roe sacs.
are actually the gonads of the Pipe into so us vide bag, and vacuum sea l.
animal.
0 Cook so us vide in 64 "C/ 150 "F bath for 50 min.
Refrigerate until fully hardened, about 20 min.
Salt 500g 250% Pack molded sea urchin pieces in sa lt.
0 Cure in refrigeratorfor12 h.
Rinse, and pat dry.
Sea urchin bo ttarga is an opti ona l Wrap tightly in cheesecloth, and hang in refrigerator
ga rnish for Cocoa Taj arin (see page to dry for 90 d.
3-186 for detail s). It's not diffi cult to
Beeswax (food grade) 500g 250% @ Melt beeswax at80 "C/ 176 " F to ensure proper
make, but th e air-drying step takes
coating, and keep wax at same temperature.
three month s to co mpl ete. Grey
mull et or tun a bottarga makes a @ Insert metal hook through narrow tip ofbottarga, and
decid edly different- but excell ent- dip three times in warm beeswax to form uniform
substitute. Fo r a ste p-by-step coating.
procedure, see page 31 86. @ Cool until hardened, about 10 min, and refrigerate .
PINK GRAPEFRUIT CONFIT Yields 250 g
Pink grapefruit peel 200g 100% 0 Cut grapefruit peel into eight equal pieces.
M ost taste recepto rs in th e mouth with pith from one 0 Blanch three times, starting from cold water each time.
are geared toward detecting grapefruit, pulp
bitterness. Th at's because most reserved for garnish
poi so nous foods have that quali ty, Water 450g 225% Combine water and salt, and bring to a boil.
and we have evo lved to detect Salt 60g 30% 0 Add peel, and simmer for 8 min.
things that might kill us. Bitte r foods
Drain, rinse, and cool.
such as cocoa powder and grape-
fruit tend to be acquired tastes, and Reserve.
thu s offer an interesting avenu e fo r Fructose 210g 105% 0 Stir together to make syrup.
chefs to ex plore. Water 210g 105% Add blanched peel to syrup.
lsomalt 92g 46% Cook so us vide in 90 c / 194 " F bath for4 h.
Citric acid 4.5g 2.25% @ Cool in ice-water bath.
@ Reserve 30 g of syrup for sea urchin butter.
@ Dice chil led peel finely, and return to remaining syrup.
226 VOL UME 5 PLATED - DI SH RECIPE S

COCOA TAJARIN Yields400g
00 wheat flour 127g 100% 0 Dry blend together.

Semolina flour 85 g 67%
Dutch processed cocoa 57g 45%
powder
Vital wheat gluten 5g 4%
Salt 2g 1.5%
Egg yolks 153g 120% 0 Add to flour mixture, and knead for10 min to make
Water 35g 28% dough .
Extra-virgin olive oil 29g 23% Vacuum seal. Refrigerate for12 h.
@ Roll into sheets 1 mm I Yn in thick.
Cut into noodles 2 mm I \!\ in wide.
Place on parchment paper, cover with damp towel,
and refrigerate .
Deodorized cocoa butter 40 g 31 .5% 0 Reserve.
(food-grade)
SEA URCHIN BUTTER Yields2oog

INGRED I ENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sake (dry) 200g 100% 0 Combine in pot, and reduce to 150 g, aboutlO min.
Vermouth (dry) 150g 75% 0 Strain and refrigerate.
Shallots, finely minced 50g 25%
Champagne vinegar 25g 12.5%
Tarragon leaves, minced 1g 0.5%
Black peppercorns, 0.25g 0.13%
coarsely ground
Sea urchin tongues 40g 20% Measure and refrigerate individually.
Pink grapefruit con fit 30g 15%
syrup, from above
Unsalted butter, 30g 15%
cubed
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
The creaminess and iodine flavor of the sea urchin

tongues enrich th is sa uce, but it is the salt that moderates
the bitterness of the cocoa powder and grapefruit in the
dish. Sa lt, not sugar, masks bitter tastes, for reasons that
neuroscientists are still trying to understand.
Allowing the tajarin dough to rest overnight provides

time for the glu ten to relax, yielding a less-elastic dough
that can be rolled thinner wit hout shrinking or tearing.
STARC HE S 22 7
25
SPAGHET TI ALLE VONGOLE
Bagna cauda, venus clam, young garlic
Two things matter when making spaghetti aile vongole: the quality Store-bought dried pasta works in this dish, as does spaghetti made
of the noodle and the quality of the clams. the traditional way and hung out to dry, as they do in the southern
This dish is traditionally prepared with dry pasta. Although region ofitaly that is home to this dish. Vacuum-drying the noodles
certain pastas, like ravioli, are best fresh, others such as spaghetti, (see page 3-384) is a speedier approach. As a third option, use our
must be a! dente-slightly firm to the bite-when cooked. That Ramen noodles (see page 250), whose high gluten content allows
texture is impossible to achieve with fresh pasta. After all, if the them to be a! dente even when cooked fresh. If you use store-bought
center of the noodle is wet and soft before it goes into the pot, it will spaghetti, look for a rough texture on the noodles, evidence they were
not yield that toothsome snap that comes from a core still slightly extruded through dies made of bronze, rather than steel or teflon. The
firm after it comes out. rougher noodles gain a better grip on the bagna cauda consomme.

SPE C IA L EQ U IP M EN T: so us vide equipment
OPTIONAL EQUIPME N T: combi oven, centrifuge
TIME TO
Vacuum-Dried Semolina Spaghetti lOmin 4h* 7min 150 g
see page 3384
Garlic Confit 5min 2h 31.5g

see page 3354
Clam Juice 2min 3min 155 g
Bagna Cauda Consomme lOmin 20 min and 1 h* 2min 100g
Brown Butter-Poached Green Garlic 5min 1h 1min 20g
Walnut Clam Marmalade 10min 15min 2min 10 g
Parsley Foam 15min 2min 20g
Stuffed Clams lOmin 15min 2min 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY: Warm butter-poached green garlic.

Cook spaghetti in boiling 2% salt water until a! dente, about 7 min. Reheat the bagna cauda consomme, and verify seasoning.
Arrange spaghetti in center of each bowl.
While spaghetti is cooking:
Top each bowl of spaghetti with three stuffed clams, four pieces
Top stuffed clams with bread crumbs.
ofbutter-poached garlic, and walnut marmalade.
Broil until golden brown and warmed through, about 2 min.
Foam parsley juice with immersion blender or handheld wand
Reheat walnut marmalade.
mixer (see page 4-252 for step by step), and spoon around bowls.
Fold in chives and parsley, and season with salt and lemon juice.
Pour bagna cauda consomme at table.
STARCHE S 229
CLAM JUICE Yi elds 175 g
Clams, rinsed and 475g 100% Q) Combine.

soaked to remove sa nd 0 Vacuum sea l.
Shallots, min ced lOg 2% Steam or bo il for 3 min until clams have just released
Thyme 0.3 g 0.06% the ir juices.
Bay leaf 0.1 g 0.02% @) Cool.
Strain juices; reserve solids for another use.
Measure 160 g of clam ju ice, and refrigerate.
BAGNA CAUDA CONSOMME Yi elds200 g
Garlic cloves, green BOg 52% Q) Saute ga rli c in oi l until go ld en, and reserve.
removed and thinly sliced
Grapeseed o il BOg 52%
Sweet onions, sliced 75g 4B% 0 Saute o ni o ns in butter and o il until translu ce nt.
Unsalted butter SOg 32%
Olive oil 25 g 16%
Clam juice, from above 15Sg 100% Add reserved garlic and remaining ingred ients
Water 155g 100% to on ions, and simme r fo r 20 min.
White wine (dry) SOg 32% @) Cool.
For more on other clarification strategies. see Garlicconfit 27g 17.5% Process in centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h, o r use
page2-352. see page 3354 alternative clarification method.
Anchovy, chopped 25g 16% Refrigerate.
Chives, minced 2g 1.3%
Thyme, minced 1g 0.6%
BROWN BUTTER-POACHED GREEN GARLIC Yields60 g
For more on making brown butter, see page Clarified brown butter 90g 150% Q) Cook ove r low heat for 1 h.
4213. Green garlic cloves, 60g 100% 0 Refri gerate.
peeled
WALNUT CLAM MARMALADE Yi elds125 g
Button mushrooms, 200g 100% Q) Saute mu shroo ms until tender and all moi sture
brunoise has eva po rated, about 15 min.
Unsalted butter 40g 20 % 0 Measure 40 g.
Clam meat, fro m below, 25 g 12.5% Fo ld into mushrooms.
finely minced @) Refrigerate.
Walnuts, finely crushed 7g 3.5%
Walnut oil 4.5g 2.25%
Clam juice, from above Sg 2.5%
Chives, finely min ced 2g 1% Measure and rese rve individu all y.
Parsley, finely minced 2g 1%
Salt to taste
230 VOL UME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

25
PARSLEY FOAM Yields265 g

Parsley juice 265g 100% <D Blend together until powder is thoroughly For more on juicing strategies, see page 2-338.
(from about incorporated. Foaming methods are discussed on page 4252.
500 g parsley)
Deoiled soy lecithin 4g 1.5%
powder
Salt 1g 0.4% 0 Season parsley juice mixture, and refrigerate.
STUFFED CLAMS Yields 12 pieces

Littleneck or Manila clams, 885g 100% <D Vacuum seal together. Add a few hot ch ili slices to your
cleaned and washed
0 Cooksous vide in 70 C / 158 Fbath for15 min. soaking water when purging clams
Shallots, thinly sliced 13.5g 1.5% or other biva lves of sand and
Shuck clams, reserving clams, juice, and shells
Garlic, thinly sliced 0.9g 0.1% impurities. The capsa icin in the chi li
separately.
w ill irri tate the she llfish and cause
Thyme O.Bg 0.1 % 0 Strain clam juice through fine sieve .
them to re lease sand and other
Bay leaf 0.2g 0.02% Measure 25 g of clams and 4 g of clam juice for making impurities.
walnut marmalade, and reserve.
Vacuum seal clams and juice individually, and
refrigerate.
0 Reserve 12 whole shells.
Button mushrooms, 50g 5.6% Saute until lightly golden and tender, about 4 min.
finely minced
Unsalted butter lOg 1%
White wine 5g 0.5% Add to pan of mushrooms.
@ Cook until liquid is evaporated, and cool.
Parsley, finely minced 15g 1.7% @ Fold pars ley and garlic confit into mushrooms.
Garlic confit, finely minced 4.5g 0.5% @ Season with salt.
see page 3354
Salt as needed
So us vide cooked clams, lOOg 11 % @ Put one clam in each reserved shell.
from above
@ Top each clam with about 5 g of mushroom mixture.
@ Refrigerate.
Bread crumbs, as needed @ Reserve.
finely powdered
STARCHES 23 1
I
25
RUSSIAN PELMENI
Heather-smoked sturgeon, Kusshi oysters, golden beets, poppy seeds
The provenance of these savory little dumplings reads like a Russian buckwheat flour, to which we add all-purpose flour as well as Activa,
folktale. They probably originated in China-which would explain whose protein-binding enzymes firm the dough. The rillettes filling
their similarity to pot stickers-and were then carried by Mongols is made from wild sturgeon, which is smoked in heather blossoms for
to Tatarstan and Siberia, where the indigenous people called them a wonderful, ethereal flavor, then shredded. The dough is rolled thin,
pel'nyan', or "ear bread." Eventually, the dumplings spread to the cut, filled, pinched, twirled around a finger, and boiled. As an
rest of Russia, where they are known today as pelmeni or Siberian alternative, the buckwheat dough can be rolled and cut into noodles,
dumplings. Our pelmeni are a type of ravioli, wrapped in squares of then served with a borscht-inspired broth with oysters and beets.

SPECI A L EQUIPMENT: smoker, sous vide equipment
TIME TO
Buckwheat Dough 20min 12 h* 525g
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters lOmin 12 h* 12 oysters

Heather-Smoked Sturgeon 5min 8 h* and 4 h* 100 g
White Fish Stock lOmin 1!-1 h* 240g

see page 2303
Sous Vide Baby Golden Beets lOmin 1 h* 8min 80g
Borscht Broth 10min 30 min* 2min 200g

optional
Salted Cucumber 5min 1 h* 40g
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes 5min 30min* 200g
Oyster Butter Emulsion 5min 25min 5min 100g
Buckwheat Pelmeni 25min 1'12 min four dumplings,

55 g each
Poached Oysters 20min 10min 12 oysters
Basic Mayonnaise 7min 75g

see page 4226
GARNISH
Clarified brown butter 28g

see page 4213
Black poppy seeds 10 g
Young beet greens 12leaves
*(unattended times)
STARCHE S 2 33
ASSEMBLY:
Cook oysters sous vide in 45 "C I 113 op bath for 10 min. Warm borscht broth, and season with salt and caraway powder.
Warm brown butter in small pot, and place pelmeni in butter.
While oysters are cooking:
Toss in poppy seeds, and baste pelmeni with butter for 30 s.
Warm oyster butter reduction. Blend in butter and creme fraiche to
Arrange pelmeni on each plate.
form emulsion. Season.
Finish with oyster bellies, sliced golden beets, and cucumber cubes.
Warm poached beets at 88 "C I 190 "F for 15 min. Cut into thin slices.
Garnish with warm brown butter and beet leaves. Pour hot oyster
While oyster butter is heating: butter and broth at table.
Cook pelmeni in 3% salt solution for 1V2 min.
BUCKWHEAT DOUGH Yields525 g

Buckwheat flour 200 g 100% CD Sift.
All-purpose flour lOOg 50% 0 Combine with sifted bu ckwh eat flour in food
Activa strengthens low-glute n Activa Tl or RM 12 g 6% pro cessor.
nood les, but anyone with ce liac (4%)* Process to mix thoroughly.
disease should avo id eating Salt 3.5 g 1.75%
nood les made with Act iva in them. Whole milk lSOg 75% @) Blend thoroughly into flour mixture.
Egg yolks 7Sg 37.5% Transfer dough to floured surface, and kn ead
Grapeseed oil 40g 20% forlO min.
Vacuum sea l.
0 Refrigerate forl2 h to allow enzyme to bind proteins.
*(% of total weight ofboth flours)

25
HEATHE~SMOKEDSTURGEON Yields450 g
Wild sturgeon fillet 500g 100% CD Combine vodka, sa lt, sugar, and zest to make cure.
Vodka 35g 7% Coat fillet evenly with cure.
Salt 20g 4% 0 Vacuum seal.
Sugar 7g 1.4% Cure in refrigerator for 8 h.
Lemon zest, finely grated 2g 0.4% @) Rinse, and pat dry with paper towels.
Cherrywood chips 750g 150% Smoke fillet with blossoms and chips at 52 oc / 125 F The temperature and humidity
Dried heather blossoms 100g 20% and relative humidity of 50% for4 h. Cool. given here will produce a wet-bulb
te mperature of about 40 oc / 1()4 F
(see page 2132).
HEATHER-S MOKED STURGEON RILLETTES Yields200g

Shallots, finely minced 15g 15% CD Marinate shallots at room temperature for 30 min.
White balsamic vinegar 13g 13%
Heather-smoked 100g 100% 0 Shred sturgeon.
sturgeon, from above
Combine shallots, sturgeon, and remaining Store-bought sturgeon can be
Basic mayonnaise 75g 75% ingredients in stand mixer. substituted in this recipe.
see page 4226
@) Whip on medium-high speed until fluffy and all
Celery, finely minced 9g 9% ingredi ents are well incorporated.
Chives, minced 5g 5% Reserve for pelmeni filling.
Celery leaf, minced 1.5g 1.5%
Chervil, minced 1.5g 1.5%
Tarragon, minced 1.5g 1.5%
Smoked salt 1.2g 1.2%
Ultra-Sperse 3 1.2g 1.2%
Lime zest, finely grated 1g 1%
Lemon juice 0.7g 0.7%
SOUS VIDE GOLDEN BEETS Yields225 g

Golden beets 250g 100% CD Vacuum seal together. Red beets also work well, and a mix
Extra-virgin olive oil 75g 30% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 oc / 190 F bath for 1 h. of red and golden is quite attrac-
Water 50g 20% Drain, reserving cooking juices. tive. But cook them separate ly to
Salt keep th e co lors pure.
3.5g 3.5% @) Peel off skins with a dry paper towel.
Thyme 2g 0.8% Vacuum seal peeled beets and juices together.
Refrigerate.
BORSCHT BROTH OPT I ONAL Yields400 g

Red beet juice 200g 100% CD Vacuum sea l together. Many Russians beli eve you ca n't eat
Water 110g 55% 0 Cook so us vide in 85 C/ 185 F bath for30 min. borscht w ithout sour cream, the
White fish stock 90g 45% classic accompaniment to this
Pass through fine sieve, and cool.
see page 2303 soup.
Rhubarb juice 16g 8%
Red wine vinegar 8g 4%
Caraway seeds, finely to taste @) Reserve.
ground
Salt to taste
STARCHES 23 5
SALTED CUCUMBER Yi elds150 g
English cucumber, peeled, 200 g 100% CD Cut into planks 3 mm by 5 em I )il in by 2 in.
halved, and seeded
Salt 4g 2% 0 Sprinkle even ly over planks, and cover.
Let water drain from cucumbers for1 h.
@) Rinse, and pat dry.
Vacuum sea l to compress.
Cut into cubes, and refrigerate.
POACHED OYSTERS Yi elds 12 oysters
Fresh Kusshi oysters 12 oysters 100% CD Shuck.

(or beet juice-fed Kusshi
oysters)
0 Strain and reserve juice, measuring 50 g for oyster
see page 3206 butter em ul sion and 25 g for poaching oysters.
Wash oysters in fresh cold water severa l times.
@) Pat dry with paper towels.
Trim off lips and hinges, leaving on ly plump bellies.
Reserve trimmings for oyster butter em ulsion.
Oyster juice 25g 25% 0 Vacuum sea l oysters and juice together.
Refrigerate.
Feeding beet juice to oysters gives the

mollusks a stunning red color.
OYSTER BUTTER EMULSION Yi elds225 g
Shallots, finely minced 75g 150% CD Sweat together until tender, about10 min.
For more on making clarified butter. see page Clarified unsa lted butter 50g 100%
4213. Celery, peeled and 35g 70%
finely minced
Oyster trimmings, 35g 70% 0 Add to sha llot mixture.
from above Sweat for 2 min.
White vermouth 200g 400% @) Add to shallot mixture.
White fish stock 150g 300% Simmer until reduced to 150 g.
see page 2303
Oyster juice, 50g 100%
from above, strained
Darjeeling tea leaves 7g 14% Steep in sha llot reduction for 3 min.
0 Strain.
Cool.
Refrigerate.
Unsalted butter 50g 100% @ Measure and reserve individu ally.
Creme fraiche 25g 50%
White wine vinegar 5g 10%
Salt to taste
236 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPE S

25
BUCKWHEAT PELMENI Yields565 g
Egg, blended so g 20% CD Combine to make egg wash.
Water 15 g 6%
Buckwheat dough, 250g 100% 0 Dust work surface with unbleached flour.
from above Roll out dough 1.5 mm / }{. in thick.
Unbleached flour as needed @) Divide dough into two sheets, each measuring 12 em
by 60 em I 4')4 in by 23Y2 in.
Heather-smoked 200g 80% Cut each dough sheet into six 7 em I 2')4 in squa res;
sturgeon rillettes, makes 12 sq uares total.
from a bove
Spoon abo ut 12 g rill ettes onto each sq uare .
0 Brush edges of square with egg wash.
Fold over one co rn er of square on diagonal to form
tri ang ul ar packet.
Press packet edges together firmly to seal.
@ Wrap triangle around finger, and pinch together
moistened, pointed ends to seal.
@ Repeat packet-making steps until all dough sq ua res
are used.
@ Cover pelmeni with slightly damp towel, and
refrigerate.
STARCHE S 237
25
PAELLA VALENCIANA
Rabbit, langoustine, garden snail, horchata emulsion, soccarat tuile
There is nothing dainty about paella. It is a dish that used to feed seafood for the meat, and cooks later mixed meat and seafood.
legions of grape pickers toiling in hot fields during harvest time in We don't make our paella in an open field, but we try to recap-
Valencia. A huge pan (called a paella or paellera) would be set in the ture some of those original elements. The snails are cooked sous
field to cook rice. Grapevine trimmings were burned for fuel. vide until they are meltingly tender. The rice is smoked first to
Any number of things went into the pan: snails, which were re-create the aroma of burning grapevines. Fields or no fields,
freely available in the fields, tomatoes, onions, and-if you were paella is still a feast best enjoyed by a large group of friends.
better off-chicken, rabbit, or duck. Coastal regions substituted
YI ELD : four portions

SPE C IAL EQUIPME N T: sous vide equipment
OPTION A L EQUIPME N T: freeze dryer
TIM E REQ U IRED : 13 h overall (24 h if making Smoked Bomba Rice), including 2 h preparation
and 30 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
White Chicken Stock 20min 1'h h* SSOg

see page 2301
Paella Stock lSmin 11/2 h 200g
Puffed Wild Rice !min 12Sg

see page 4307
Smoked Bomba Rice 24 h* 125 g

optional, see page 3-362
Freeze-dried Piquillo Pepper 12 h* llg

Blood Sausage 20min 30min* 20min* 600g

see page 3238
Paella Rice lOmin 12min 7 min 350g
Sous Vide Rabbit Loin 8 h* and 25 min* 20min* 320g
Sous Vide Braised Snails Smin 5 h* 20min* 80g
Sofrito 20min 1 h* 2min 60g
Sous Vide Artichoke lOmin 45 min* 20min* 60g
Horchata Foam Smin 12 h* and 10 min 2min 40g
Puffed Wild Rice l'/2min SOg

see page 4 -302
Soccarat Tuile Smin 1 h* four crisps
Seared Langoustine Tails 2min four
*(unattended times)
STARCHE S 239
ASSEMBLY:
Reheat rabbit loin, blood pudding, snails, and artichokes in 58 c I Foam horchata with handheld foaming wand or immersion blender
136 p bath about 20 min. until thick foam layer forms.
Finish cooking smoked paella rice by adding stock to rice-onion Dust rabbit loin with piquillo pepper powder, and then slice on a
mixture a little at a time until a! dente, about S min. Remove from bias, 1 em I 3/s in thick.
heat, and add saffron. Season with salt. Slice blood pudding 2 em I 3,4 in thick.
Reheat sofrito in saute pan just until warmed through, about 2 min. Spoon rice into each bowl.
Sear langoustines in oil until golden and just cooked through, about Arrange slices of rabbit loin and blood pudding, braised snails, one
1 min on each side. Season with salt. artichoke, and one langoustine on top of each portion of rice.
Garnish with horchata foam and soccarat tuile.
PAELLA STOCK Yields750g
Rabbit trimmings 350g 35% CD Brown in 190 c I 375 F oven until golden, about
Rabbit carcass 335g 34% 25 min.
Yellow onions, 125 g 12% 0 Sweat until translucent, about 5 min.

thinly sliced
Grapeseed oil 100 g 10%
Tomatoes, peeled 100 g 10% Add to onions, and saute vegetable mixture until
and seeded gold en, about 7 min.
Carrots, thinly sliced 75g 7.5%
Leeks, thinly sliced 60g 6%
Fennel, thinly sliced 55g 5.5%
Piquillo peppers, 40g 4%
thinly sliced
Pimenton de Ia Vera 6g 0.6%
(sweet)
Thyme 2.25g 0.2%
Water 1 kg 100% @) Combine with browned rabbit pieces and vegetable
White chicken stock 550g 55% mixture.
see page 2301 Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi
for1 h.
@ Cool.
0 Strain through fine sieve.
Refrigerate.

25
PAELLA RICE Yields350 g
Spanish onions, finely 25 g 20% CD Saute in the bottom of a pressure cooker until
minced trans luce nt and te nd er, about 7 min.
Olive oil 20g 16%
Piquillo pepper, finely 20g 16%
minced
Sweet pimento pepper, 15 g 12%
finely minced
Smoked bomba rice (or 125g 100% 0 Add rice to onion mixture, and cook until trans lucent, Paella traditionally uses bomba
regular bomba rice)
about2 min. rice, which is indigenous to Spain.
see page 3362
It soaks up enough stock to swell to
Spanish white wine 35g 28% Add w ine and 150 g of stock to rice -onion mixture, three times its dry volume. It
(dry and fruity) and pressure-cook for 3 min at a gauge pressure of expands in width rather than
Paella stock, from above 325g 260% 1 bar / 15 psi. length, remains firm after cooking,
@ Run co ld wate r over pressure cooker. and does not become sticky.
Drain rice, discarding liquid.
Spread rice on ch illed bak ing sheet to speed coo ling. For more on other ways to parcook rice,
0 Transfer to contain er, and refrigerate. see page 3304.
Refrigerate rema ining 175 g stock.
Saffron threads 2g 1.6% Reserve ind ividually.
Salt to taste
STARCHES 241
SOUS VIDE RABBIT LOIN Yields 450 g
Rabbit loins, trimmed 450 g 100% G) Dust rabbit loins evenly with Activa .
and silver skin removed 0 Position opposing loins, tapered sides together, to
Activa RM orGS 10 g 2.2% form even cylind ers 3 em I 1]4 in. in diameter.
Wrap each pair of lo in s tightly in plastic wrap, and
vacuum seal.
@) Refrigerate for at least 6 h to allow enzyme to bind
loins.
Extra-virgin olive oil 50g 11% Vacuum sea l loin s with oil.
Cook so us vide in 57 c I 135 f bath to core
temperature of 56 c l 133 f, about25 min.
0 Cool in ice-water bath. Refrigerate.
Freeze-dried piquillo lOg 2.2% Reserve individually.
peppers
see page 3372
Salt as needed

25
SOUS VIDE BRAISED SNAILS Yields400g
White chicken stock 600g 150% 0 Vacuum sea l together.
see page 2301 Although we use canned snai ls for
0 Cook so us vide in 68 c I 154 "F bath for 5 h.
conven ience, fresh sna ils can also
Burgundy sna ils 400g 100%
Drain, and reserve juices. be used, as long as they are purged
(canned), cl eaned
@) Pick out snai l meat, and di scard vegetables and thoro ugh ly before use.
Carrots, peel ed and 200g 50%
aro matics.
thinly sliced
Vacu um sea l snails w ith reserved jui ces, and It doesn't take much to start a sna il
Sweet onions, thinly sl iced 180 g 45% farm, which is why anthropo logists
refrigerate .
Salt 15g 3.75% believe snai ls were raised very early
Thyme 1.5g 0.4% on in our ancestry. They are one of
the oldest farmed mollusks. Only
Bay leaf 0.4g 0.1 %
oysters have been cu ltivated for
longer.
SOFRITO Yields150 g
Yellow onions, 100 g 100% 0 Sweat over low heat until very te nd er and sweet,
brunoise abo ut 30 min.
Olive oil 20g 20%
Canned tomatoes, 66g 66% 0 Add to onions, an d coo k over low heat until
seeded and diced vegeta bl es are very tender and all liquid has
Tomato juice 66g 66% evaporated, about 30 min.
(from150 g Coo l.
tomatoes)
@) Refrigerate.
Cubane lle peppers, 33 g 33%
fine brunoise
Garli c cloves, 3.3 g 3.3%
blanched once, brunoise
Sherry vin egar 20g 20% Measure an d reserve individu ally.
Cilantro stems, 3.3 g 3.3%
fin ely minced
Salt 2g 2%
SOUS VIDE ARTICHOKE Yields100 g
Water 200g 200% <D Vacuum sea l together.

Baby artichokes, peeled, 100g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 c / 194 f bath for45 min.
chokes and tough leaves (four pieces) @ Cool.
discard ed
@) Refrigerate.
Yellow onion, thinly sliced 25g 25%
Carrot, peel ed and thinly 15g 15%
sli ced
Lemon peel 5.5g 5.5%
Salt 2.5g 2.5%
Ascorbic acid 1g 1%
Thyme 1g 1%
Black peppercorns 0.5g 0.5%
Black coriander seeds 0.5g 0.5%
Bay leaf 0.2g 0.2%
HORCHATA FOAM Yields200 g
Chufa nuts 450g 225% <D Cover nuts w ith water.

0 Soak in refrigeratorfor1 2 h.
@ Drain.
Water 250g 125% @) Combine w ith soaked nuts.
Sugar 16g 8% Blend to smooth, fine texture.
Pass through fine sieve to extract chufa milk.
0 Vacuum seal, an d refrigerate until co ld .
Chufa milk, cold, 200g 100% Disperse soy lecit hin and whey protein isolates in
from above milk.
Deo iled soy lecithin 6g 3% Blend thoro ughly.
Whey protein isolate 1.4g 0.7%
Salt as needed @ Season chufa milk.
Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate.
If you have visited Spain in the

summer, you have probab ly had a
cool glass of sweet horchata. But it's
made with chufa, not almonds, as
most people assume. Chufos, or
tigernuts, have been found in
Egyptian tombs and are known for
being rich in minerals and amino
acids. They were introduced to
Valencia by the Moors, and
Valencia is sti ll the only place in
Europe where the tuber is grown.
The word horchata comes from
orxata. Legend has it that james I of
Aragon tried the drink and ex-
claimed, "Aixo es or, xata!" ("That's
gold, darling! ")
244 VOLUME 5 PLATED - DI SH RE CIPE S

25
SEARED LANGOUSTINE Yields160 g

langoustine tails, peeled 160 g 100% 0 Refrigerate.
(four tails)
Grapeseed oil as needed 0 Reserve individually.
Salt to taste
SOCCARAT TUlLE Yields 170 g (about 24 discs)

Water 160g 160% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Bomba rice 100g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 F bath until very tender,
about45 min.
Olive oil Sg 5% Puree w ith cooked rice mixture until smooth.
Salt 2g 2% @) Spread puree even ly on silicone baking mat.
Puffed wild rice SOg 50% Sprinkle puree even ly with puffed rice.
see page 4302
Bake in 150 oc I 300 F oven until crisp, about10 min.
Freeze-dried piquillo 1g 1% 0 Dust rice crisp with piquillo pepper powder while
pepper, powdered sti ll warm.
(or sweet paprika)
see page 3372 Break into desired shapes .
Reserve in airtight container.
STARCHES 245
25
ASTRONAUT RAMEN
Pork and young ginger
What was Japan's best invention of the 20th century? The Japanese Indeed, Ando's proudest achievement was sending ramen into
voted for instant ramen. (Karaoke came in second.) Momofuku Ando outer space. He designed a vacuum-packed version, Space Ramen, for
created Chikin Ramen in 1958, after perfecting a way to flash-fry the space shuttle Discovery. And that is the inspiration for Astronaut
cooked noodles. They cost six times more than fresh noodles and Ramen. Everything in this ramen is freeze-dried: the braised pork
seemed to be a luxury item doomed to fail. Instead, an increasingly shoulder, the pork belly, the enoki mushrooms-even the edible cup.
rushed modern workforce vaulted them to success. Next came the Johnny Zhu spent weeks in our development kitchen fine-tuning the
pioneering Styrofoam-packaged Cup Noodles with its freeze-dried texture of the ramen cup fillings to best replicate the texture of fresh
meats and vegetables. This was real space-age food science in action! ramen upon rehydration.

SPE C IAL EQUIPME N T: freeze dryerj sous vide equipment
TIME REQUIRED : 22 h overall, including 2 h preparation, and 5 min to finish
TIME TO
Ramen Stock 20min 12 h* and 12 h* 45 s 36 g (four portions)
see page 2455
"Styrofoam" Cup and Lid 20min 12 h* 45 s 10 g

(four cups and lids)
Ramen Noodles 15min 12 h* 45 s 20.8 g (four clusters)
Ramen Vegetables 30min 2h* and12h* 45 s 4 g hon shimeji
see page 2455 (mushrooms)
1.7 g bamboo shoots
0.4 g young ginger
0.4 g carrot
0.4 g scallion greens
1.2 g lotus slices
Freeze-dried Egg Yolk lOmin 45 min* and 12 h* 45 s 7g
Freeze-dried Pork lOmin 8 h* and 12 h* 45 s 50g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Place a "Styrofoam" cup in middle of each bowl. At table:
Build up ramen components. Sprinkle powdered ramen stock Pour 90 g water over each covered cup to fully dissolve packaging.
through sieve. Organize freeze-dried noodles, vegetables, egg yolk Stir, then allow freeze-dried ingredients to hydrate for at least 45 s
discs, and pork into four equal portions. Pack ingredients into each before serving.
cup as tightly as possible, without breaking cup.
Set filled cups in a warm bowl, and place lids on cups.
Heat 360 g water to 70 oc I 158 F.
STA RC HE S 24 7
"STYROFOAM" LID Yields2 g
Water, cold 300g 100% CD Disperse gelatin in water.

160 Bloom gelatin 9g 3% 0 Heat until dissolved.
Cool mixture to room temperature.
Xanthan gum 0.75g 0.25% @) Whisk into gelatin mixture to hyd rate.
Vacuum sea l to remove accum ul ated bubbles.
Spread ge lat in mixture on nonstick si li cone mat in
laye r1 mm I X. in thick.
0 Refrigerate preparation until set, at least 4 h.
Outline lids on gel sheet, and form discs by pressing
down w ith ring cutte r 7 em I 2o in. in diameter. Leave
lid discs outlined on sheet for later removal.
For more on freeze-drying, see page 2-438. Freeze, and freeze-dry for 12 h.
@ Peel away lids from sheet, and reserve in dry place.
@ Store lids in dry environment.
Momofuku An do invented
Cup Noodles in 1971 at age 61 ,
proving it is never too late to
develop a new product. The
"STYROFOAM" CUP Yields8g
instant-noodle industry has now
sold more than 900 billion units- INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
no word yet on what fraction of
Water, cold 300g 100% CD Disperse ge latin in water.
those was sold to college students.
160 Bloom gelatin 9g 3% 0 Heat until dissolved.
Cool mixture to room temperature.
Xanthangum 0.75g 0.25% @) Whisk into gelatin mixture to hydrate.
Vacuum sea l to remove accumulated bubbles.
Using food-grade plastic, make fo ur templates for
ramen cups, each measuring 7 em I 2o in diameter at
top, 6 em I 2% in diameter at bottom, 7 mm I 2o in
tall, and 4 mm I 'X in thick.
0 Place cup templates on si li cone mat, and spread
mixture in layer 3 mm I Y. in thick on each ofthe four
templates. Discard excess mixture.
Refrigerate preparations until set, at least 4 h.
Peel off templates for cups, and reserve.
@ Freeze, and freeze-dry for 12 h.
@ Bring a pot ofwaterto a simmer to make cup material
more flexible during cup formation.
@ Hold cup sheet over simmering water, fold edges of
sheet carefu lly to meet, then move away from stove.
@ Brush seams very lightly with water to make edges
adhesive.
@ Hold edges together until ad hered.
@ Repeat shaping to make three more cups.
@ Store cups in dry environment.
The cup and lid become thickeners

that give the broth body.
248 VOLUME 5 PLATED -DIS H RECIPES

7 10
11 12
13 14
STARCHES 249
RAMEN NOODLES Yields 14.5 g
All-purpose flour 78 g 100% CD Mix together.

Semolina flour 57g 73% 0 Form into mound.
Unli ke many fresh past as, th ese Wheat gluten 2.5g 3.2% Make we ll in cen ter.
noodl es take on an al dente texture Salt 1g 1.3%
eve n w hen coo ked from fres h, Egg yolks, whisked 76 .5g 98% @) Pou r into we ll.
thanks to the ad ded gluten in t hem.
Water 17.5g 22% Mix slowly by hand until dough forms.
Neutral oil 14.5g 18.5% Vacuum sea l.
0 Rest at room temperature for at least 1 h.
Roll w ith pasta roller into sheets 1 mm I )5, in thick.
Cut into nood les 2 mm I )5, in w id e.
@ Form into small clu ste rs; each cluster is one porti on.
@ Freeze.
@ Freeze- dry for 12 h.
FREEZE-DRIED EGG YOLK Yields9 g
Eggs 60g 100% CD Coo k in shell s in 67 c I 153 "F bath fo r 45 min.

0 Coo l quickly in ice-water bath.
Crack open, and di sca rd whites.
@) Roll yo lks betwee n two acetate sheets into layer
1 mm l}5, inthick.
Freeze.
Remove top acetate sheet, and punch out small discs
w ith ring cutter 2 em I ~ in . in diameter.
0 Freeze yo lk discs. Freeze-dry for12 h.

25
FREEZE-DRIED PORK Yields70g
Mangalitsa pork belly, 100g 100% CD Vacuum sea l.
skin on, boneless
0 Cook so us vide in 82 c / 180 "F bath for 8 h.
Freeze slices.
@) Slice into pieces 1 mm I Y,, in thick.
Freeze.
Freeze-dry for 6 h.
Mangalitsa pork shoulder, 100 g 100% 0 Vacuum seal.
boneless
Cook so us vide in 88 c / 190 "F bath for 8 h.
Shred into fine strands.
@ Cool co mpletely.
@ Freeze.
@ Freeze-dry for 12 h.
As boiling water is poured into the cup, rehydrating the freeze-dried ramen, the "Styrofoam" melts, leaving only a beautiful plate of soup.
STARCHES 251
SHANGHAI SOUP DUMPLINGS
25
Pork and crab juice, toasted sesame seeds, scallion marmalade
The fog billows as the lid of the bamboo basket is lifted. Small, This recipe showcases spheres of soup-the liquid is encased in a
symmetrical dumplings, plump with meat and soup, burst in the skin of delicate gel, rather than bundled in dough. We season the soup
mouth at first bite. They're so addictive that people have been known stock with a small amount of calcium lactate salt, gel it in a mold, then
to wander Shanghai in search of the best soup dumplings. Xiao long drop it into a solution of alginate, a hydrocolloid derived from
bao first appeared in Nanxiang, outside Shanghai, at least 100 years seaweed. The two react to form a thin outer layer of alginate around
ago. Traditionally, gelled stock is pureed and folded into the ground the soup and a marble of crab meat inside. A translucent veil of dough
pork (and sometimes crab). is laid across the top to make a beautiful burst of soup, modernized.
Y IELD : four portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: pressure cooker
TIME REQUIRED: 4 h overall, including 1 h preparation and 7 min to cook and finish
ORDER OF PREPARATI ON:

TIME TO
Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion 35 min and 1 h* 200g
Crab and Ginger Marble Smin 4 h* four, 1 g each
Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil 20min 15 g

see page 3383
Roasted Scallion Marmalade Smin Smin 1min 16 g
Soy Vinegar Infusion 2min 4g

Crab and Pork Stock Sphere 20min Smin four, 10 g each
GARNISH
Chives, finely minced Sg

Young ginger, fine julienne Sg
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Warm crab and pork stock spheres in 65 c / 149 p bath for 5 min. Drape each sphere with one herb-embedded pasta veil, and season
Allow to rest for 2 min. with soy vinegar infusion.
While spheres are resting: Garnish with chives and young ginger.
Cook pasta veils in simmering 3% salt water for 1 min.
Divide scallion marmalade among four porcelain spoons, and nestle
one hot sphere on top of each portion.
STARCH ES 253
Both the traditional and modern TRIPLE DUNGENESS CRAB AND
approaches to making soup PORK STOCK INFUSION Yields850 g
dumplings have had to so lve the
same problem: how to encapsu late INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
soup in a gel coating. The modernist Dungeness crab, chopped 1.35kg 135% <Il Pan fry until golden brown, about15 min.
version relies on reverse-molded
sphe rification with sod ium a lgin ate. Chicken wings, 1 kg 100% 0 Remove from pan, and reserve.
finely chopped
It is visua lly striking because
the algin ate, unlike pasta, is Ground pork 650g 65%
transparent. Grapeseed oil 315g 31.5%
Scallions, thinly sliced 400g 40% Add to meat pan, and saute vegetables until
Carrots, peeled and thinly 280g 28% lightly browned.
sliced
Leeks, thinly sliced 280g 28%
Fennel, thinly sliced 246g 24.6%
Shallots, thinly sliced 135g 13.5%
Tomato paste 50g 5% @) Add to sauteed vegetables, and continu e to saute
until golden brown, about 4 min.
Sake lOg 1% Deglaze pan with sake.
Water 1 kg 100% Add reserved browned meat and crab, and water.
0 Pressure-cook mixture at a gauge pressure of1 bar I
15 psi for1 h.
Cool, then strain through fine sieve, yield ing about
850 g of stock.
Star anise, lightly crushed 1g 0.1 % Bring stock to a boil, and remove from heat.
Cinnamon stick 0.4g 0.04% @ Add spices, and steep for 1 min.
Black peppercorns 0.3g 0.03% @ Strain through fine sieve.
Sugar 3g 0.3% @ Add sugar to stock infusion.
@ Cool.

25
A delicate noodle veil is laid atop the

soup-dumpling sphere.
CRAB AND GINGER MARBLE Yi elds2 0 g{20marbl es)
Steamed crabmeat 20g 100% CD Mix together thoroughly.
Chives, finely min ced 1g 5%
Young ginger, brunoise 1g 5%
Salt 0.5g 2.5%
Sesame oil powd er 0.4g 2%
{store-bought)
ActivaRM 0.3g 1.5% 0 Sprinkle lightly ove r crabm eat mixture.
Mix to incorporate.
0 Form into 1 g balls, each 1 em I% in . in diameter.
Refrigerate for at least 4 h to all ow enzyme to bind.
ROASTED SCALLION MARMALADE Yield s90 g

Scallions, thinly sliced 100 g 100% CD Saute sca llion s in oil until gold en, about 5 min.
Grapeseed oil 5g 5%
Salt 1g 1% 0 Season sca lli ons.
Refrigerate.
STARC HES 2 55
SOY VINEGAR INFUSION Yields50g
Rice vinegar 25 g 250% 0 Combine.

Soy sauce lO g 100% 0 Taste fo r balance, and adj ust seaso ning if necessary.
Chives, finely minced 1.8g 18% Refrigerate.
Young ginger, 1.8 g 18%
brunoise
Ginger oil 0.5g 5%
Palm sugar 0.3 g 3%
Toasted sesame oil 0.2g 2%
CRAB AND PORK STOCK SPHERES Yields 240 g (24 spheres)
For the spheres:

Triple crab and pork stock 200 g 100% 0 Di spe rse ca lci um lactate in stock.
infusion, cold, from above 0 Vacuum sea l to remove excess air.
Calcium lactate 6g 3% Refrigerate.
Crab marbles, 20g 10% @) Pour stock solution into 20 hem isphere sili co ne
from above (20 marbles) molds, each 3 em / l Y.. in. in diameter.
Delicately place one crab marbl e in center of each
hemi sph ere.
Press crab marble into fluid until ce ntered. Stock
sho uld be visco us enough to suspend marble in co re
of hemis ph ere.
0 Freeze.
For the setting bath:
Spherification was first used in Water, cold 500g 100% Di sperse sodi um algin ate in water.
1942, to create artifi cia l cherries. Sodium alginate 2.5 g 0.5% Vacuum sea l to remove excess air.
In 2003, Ferran Adria of eiBulli (A lgin, Texturas brand) @ Pour so lution ge ntly in to pot and heat to 60-65 c I
wowed the restaurant industry 140- 149 " F.
with the technique by presenting
@ Remove from heat, and ca refull y drop in frozen
orbs of pea puree. Since then, the
hemisp heres.
technique has grown in popularity.
@ Leave for 2 min; as the hemisp heres melt, th ey will
become sp heres. Turn sp heres over, and leave fo r
1 min longer.
@ Fill two bowls with warm water, each heated to
Numerous grades of sod ium 75-80 c ; 167- 176 "F, and fill a third with cold water.
alginate are ava il able, each with
@ Using slotted spoo n, transfer sp heres to first bowl
varying properties. This recipe was
of heated water to rin se for 1 min.
developed with the Texturas brand
alginate. @ Transfer spheres to seco nd bowl of heated water to
rinse again, and then hold spheres in bowl of co ld
water, refrigerated.
256 VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPE S

25
PLATED-DISH RECIPES
26
ONION TART 261
LENTIL SALAD 267
SWEET PEA FRICASSEE 272
STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO 277
CRISPY CAULIFLOWER 281
WATERMELON BULGOGI 285
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 259

26
ONION TART INSPIRED BY PIERRE HERME
Gruyere custard, onion arlette, onion gratin
In this tart, savory is sweet, and sweet is savory; the gratin is on the and savory. We also drew inspiration from the structural complexity
bottom, and the onion sable "crust" is on the top. It's upside down ofHerme's desserts, another of his signature contributions to the
and unexpected, a Modernist reinvention of a time-honored classic. pastry world. The contrasting textures of the onion arlette, sable,
We drew inspiration for this dish from pastry chef Pierre Herme, gratin, and the Gruyere custard make this interpretation of the
who is famous for savory yet sweet concoctions like macaroons of onion tart truly unique.
white chocolate and green olive, or raspberry and red pepper, as well Its onion gratin was inspired by chef Alain Passard of L'Arpege.
as for plated desserts composed of avocado, banana, and chocolate. He softens the onions slowly over a low flame so that they never
The sweet potential of onions made perfect sense to us as a bridge for caramelize and flavors them with copious amounts of dry Gewiirz-
what has become, in Modernist cooking, a gray area between sweet traminer wine, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lemon zest.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, meat slicer
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: freeze dryer
TIME REQUIRED: 3 h overall (12 h if making Freeze-dried Onion Powder), including 50 min preparation
and 15 min to reheat and finish
TIME TO
Onion Arlette 20min 30 min and 1 h* 16 slices, 10 g each
Freeze-dried Onion Powder 5min 30 min and 12 h* 8g
Onion Sable 10min 21Ah 150 g

Glazed Pearl Onion 5min 1 h* 3min 50g
Onion Stock 5min 15 min and 1 h* 375g
Gruyere Custard 10min 40min 8min 80g
Onion Gratin 10min 45min 5min 60g
GARNISH
Chive blossoms 12
Lime zest, grated to taste
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Heat onion custard cubes in 70 oc / 160 op oven until just warmed Drain pearl onions, cut in half through stem end, and pat dry.
through, about 8 min. Sear pearl onions in oil, cut side only, until surfaces are golden and
While custard is heating: onions are just warmed, about 3 min.
Set each portion of onion gratin on center ofheatproof plate, and Top each gratin with three custard cubes and a sable rectangle.
broil until warmed through and golden, about 5 min. Garnish each plate with five seared onion halves, three onion
arlettes, three chive blossoms, and lime zest.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 2 61

Rectangular pieces of dough in increasing
sizes combine to make onion-like shapes in
the Onion Arlette. ONION ARLETTE YieldsSOO g
Sweet onion juice 300g 100% CD Combine, and cook at 155 c I 310 "F, until a light
(from about golden carame l forms.
For more on juicing methods, see page 2-332.
500 g onions) 0 Pour hot onion syrup onto silicone mat.
Trehalose (or isomalt or 130g 43.3% Coo l and harden at room temperature, about 20 min.
sugar)
@ Grind to fine powder.
Glucose syrup DE40 70g 23.3%
Reserve onion sugar.
Puff pastry dough SOOg 167% Roll out dough in rectangle 0.5 em I 'A in thick.
(store-bought or 0 Cut dough into five progressively smal ler rectangles.
fresh-made)
Stack in layers, brushing with butter and dusting with a
Clarified unsalted butter, 150 g 50% thin coat of onion sugar between each layer.
melted
Fold and roll dough into cylinder, and then pinch top
to give dough a bulb shape.
@ Freeze until very hard, about 45 min.
@ Cut dough with meat slicer to slices 1 mm I X in thick.
@ Place slices between two silicone mats, and pass
rolling pin overtop until sli ces are nearly translucent;
they shou ld retain their shape.
@ Dust flattened slices with more onion sugar to fully
coat surfaces.
@ Transfer to si licone mat- lin ed baking sheet.
@ Bake in 170 c I 340 "Foven for 7 min.
@ Dust w ith add itiona l onion sugar, and bake for 2-3 min.
Cool, and reserve in coo l, dry place.
262 VOLUME 5 PLAHD DISH RECIPES

26
ONION SABLE Yields350g
Unsalted butter 500g 500% @ Simmer over low heat for 2 h to infuse butter with
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 200g 200% onion flavor, being careful not to brown onions.
0 Strain butter, and reserve onions for other use.
Measure 100 g of onion broth for making dough.
All-purpose flour 112.5g 112.5% @) Mix to form dough, and rest dough for 20 min at
Onion butter, from above 100g 100% room temp.
Almond powder 50g 50% Roll out dough 1 mm I){. in thick.
lsomalt 50g 50% Place on nonstick baking sheet.
Egg yolk, cooked sous vide 25g 25% 0 Bake in 175 oc I 350 Foven until lightly golden, about
in 65 oc l 149 F bath for7 min 11 min.
Cornstarch 12.5 g 12.5% Cut into 3 em by 8 em I 114 in by 3)4 in rectangles
Freeze-dried onion powder 8g 8% while still warm. Freeze-dried onions can be found
see page 3-373 Cool completely. in some supermarkets. They can be
Salt 4.5g 4.5% ground to a fine powder and
@ Reserve in cool, dry place.
substituted for the homemade
Heavy cream 3.3g 3.3%
freeze-dried onions in this recipe.
Baking powder 1.5g 1.5%
GLAZED PEARL ONION Yields230g

Pearl onions, blanched, 100g 111% @ Prepare onions as directed.
shocked, and peeled
0 Vacuum seal onions with other ingredients.
Water 90g 100% Cook sous vide in 85 CI 185 F bath for1 h.
Champagne vinegar 30g 33% @) Cool in ice-water bath.
Honey 7g 8% Refrigerate.
Salt 3g 3.5%
Neutral oil as needed
ONION STOCK Yields650 g
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 400 g 100% 0 Saute on ions in butter over medium-high heat, stirring
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 12.5% frequently until go ld en, about 15 min.
Water 500g 125% 0 Simmer with sauteed on ions for 1 h.

Vermouth (dry) 30g 7.5% Strain.
0 Coo l stock.
Reserve 175 g of stock for Gruyere custard and 200 g
for onion gratin.
GRUYERE CUSTARD Yields 670 g
Whole milk 250g 250% (I) Combine.

Heavy cream 75g 75% 0 Bring to simmer.
Sodium citrate 4.7g 4.7%
(0.78%)*
Gruyere cheese, grated 100g 100% Blend into milk mixture, stirring until melted
and smooth.
0 Set asid e creamy cheese mi xtu re.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 50g 50% Saute onions until tender, abo ut 30 min.
Unsalted butter 20g 20% Cool.
0 Hand-blend into cheese mi xture.
Coo l comp lete ly.
Onion stock, from above 175 g 175% @ Disperse carrageenans in cold stock.
Iota carrageenan 3.35 g 3.35% @ Blend with coo led cheese mixture.
(0.5%)* @ Heat to 95 c I 203 f for 3 min to fully hydrate.
Kappa carrageenan 1.35g 1.35%
(0.2%)*
Salt to taste @ Season stock mixture.
@ Cast evenly into mold to create a layer 2.5 em I 1 in
thick.
@ Refrigerate until set, abo ut 10 min.
@ Cut into 2.5 em I 1 in cubes.
@ Refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weight afall ather ingredients)
The components of this recipe can be plated

and served in many different ways to suit the
look you want to achieve and the textures you
want to emphasize.
26
ONION GRATIN INSPIRED BY ALAIN PASSARO Yields250 g

Sweet onions, 250g 100% CD Saute onions in butter over low heat until translucent
very thinly sliced but not co lored, about 40 min.
Clarified unsalted butter 20g B%
Gewiirztraminer (dry) 200g BO% 0 Deglaze onions with wine and stock until onions
Onion stock, from above 200g BO% are complete ly cooked and very tender, and all liquid
has evaporated, about 45 min.
Parmesan cheese, finely 25g 10% Season onion mixture.
grated
@ Cool.
Black pepper, finely 0.3g 0.12% Spread onto silicone baking sheet in even layer
crushed
1 em I Yz in thick.
Lemon zest, finely grated 0.25g 0.1 % Refrigerate for at least 1 h, until fully hardened.
Salt to taste
0 Cut into 5 em bylO em I 2 in by 4 in rectangles.
Refrigerate.

26
LENTIL SALAD
Foie gras parfait, pickled Bing cherry, hazelnut nougatine, chamomile
Many people have a dim view oflentils, as the legume is usually into chilled lentils. Chopped, pickled Bing cherries add a bright
boiled into oblivion. Cooked with care, lentils-particular ly burst of acidity.
delicate French green lentils, or lentilles vertes du Puy-will have a Including foie gras is a classic French touch of mixing the
creamy texture. pedestrian and extravagant. Dipping the foie gras in cherry gelee to
Lentils take to their surroundings, so they are a good canvas on fashion it as a faux cherry is a nod to chef Paul Liebrandt. A stem
which to layer flavor. Our summer salad folds a cherry vinaigrette makes it literally the cherry on top.

SPECI AL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, gas blowtorch, silicone hemisphere molds, vacuum reduction equipment
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: liquid nitrogen
TIME RE QU IRED: 11 h overall, including 2 1/ 2 h preparation and 5 min to finish
ORDER OF PREPARATI ON:

TIME TO
White Duck Stock 20min l 'h h* 170 g
see page 2301
Foie Gras Parfait 30 min and 5 h* 20 min and 3 h*
Foie Gras Cherry 20min 2min four
Pickled Bing Cherry lOmin 2 h* 2S g

Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine 30min Smin 40g
Cherry Vinaigrette Smin 175 g
Sherry Gel Cube 2min 10min 10 g
Sous Vide Lentils 10min 2 h* 3min 350g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Place foie gras cherries on nonstick baking sheet, and let come to Spoon lentil salad equally into four bowls.
room temperature, about 10 min, before serving. Arrange one foie gras cherry on top of each salad.
Drain cooked and cooled lentils, and dress with cherry vinaigrette. Finish with chamomile blossoms, frisee tops, and shards of
Fold in each component-minc ed pickled cherries, sherry gel cubes, nougatine.
green hazelnut slices, diced radish, and chervil tops-into dressed
lentils.

This recipe makes more fo ie gras FOIE GRAS PARFAIT Yields 600g
parfa it than is needed for the
molded cherries. Luckily, it is
delicious w ith just abo ut anything, Raw duck foie gras 425g 100% CD Slice 1 em 1% in off each end of lobe.
or on its own . Omitti ng the parfa it, as needed 0 Cover foie gras with milk, soak for 5 h in refrigerator to
Whole milk
however, greatly simplifies this drain blood, then drain and vacuum seal.
recipe, and reduces the overa ll
Cook so us vide in 57 c I 135 F bath to core
p reparation an d cook ing time to
temperature of 56 c I B3 F, about 20 min.
about 2 h, mostly unattended,
w hile the lentils cook. White duck stock 170g 40% @ Disperse gelatin in small amount of stock, and heat
see page 2301 until fully dissolved.
160 Bloom gelatin lOg 2.4% Whisk into remaining stock.
We use curing salts to ma intain the lnsta Cure No.1 6g 1.4% Blend foie gras with gelatin mixture and remaining
origina l pink co lor of the foie gras Salt 6g 1.4% ingred ients.
parfait. The sa lts prevent the Sugar 3g 0.7% 0 Pipe 12 g of mixture into each of 36 silicone
graying that otherwise occurs. For hemisphere molds, each 2.5 em I l.in. in diameter.
more on using curing sa lts, see
Refrigerate for at least 4 h to set.
page 3152.
Melt flat surface of each still -molded foie gras
hemisph ere with blowtorch.
@ Place half of hemispheres on top of remaining
hemispheres to create spheres.
@ Insert 10 em I 4 in skewer into each foie gras sphere.
@ Freeze spheres with liquid nitrogen, if avai lable, or in
freezer.
FOIE GRAS CHERRIES Yieldsl50 g
Sour cherry juice 150g 100% CD Disperse gellan gum into cold juice. Bring to a boil.
Low-acyl gellan 1.5g 1% 0 Pour liquid into beaker set in ice-water bath.
(Kelcoge l F, CP Kelko (0.26%) Blend mixture with immersion blender as it sets to
brand) form fluid gel, and set aside.
Cherry pickling brine, 85g 57% @ Disperse gelatin in small amount of brine.
from below Heat mixture until ge latin is fully dissolved.
160 Bloom ge latin 14g 9.3% Blend gelatin mixture with remaining ingredients.
(2.4%)
0 Whisk in the prepared sour-cherry fluid gel from
Black cherry puree 200g B3% above.
Amarena cherry syrup 150g 100% Vacuum seal to remove accumu lated air bubbles.
(0.07%)
Foie gras parfait, lOOg 67% Dip frozen foie gras spheres into cherry liquid,
from above (four spheres) coating evenly.
@ Refrigerate until set, about 1 h.
*(%oftotal weight ofall other ingredients exceptfoie gras)
PICKLED BING CHERRY Yie lds650g
Bing cherries 500g 100% CD Arrange in single layer in rigid plastic container that
fits in vacuum sealer chamber.
Red wine vinegar 265g 53% 0 Bring al l ingredients to a boil to make brin e.
Sour cherry juice 150g 30% Pour brine over cherries, and let cool.
(store-bought) @ Pull full vacuum three times on cooled cherries.
For more on the steps involved in vacuum
infusion, see page 3-390. Sugar BOg 26% Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
Water BOg 26% Remove 15 cherries, pit them, and mince finely.
0 Reserve for foie gras cherries and cherry vinaigrette.
268 VOLUME 5 P LATED -D I SH RECIPES

26
7
The steps shown above illustrate the Foie Gras Parfait recipe (top recipe on previous page).
The steps shown below illustrate the Foie Gras Cherries recipe (middle recipe on previous
page). For a complete step-by-step procedure. see page 4186.
9 10
Yields240 g
DRIED CHERRY AND HAZELNUT NOUGATINE
Sugar 50 g 100% CD Heat together to 150 c I 300 Fto form syrup.

Trehalose (or isomalt) 50 g 100%
Wate r 20g 40%
For more on making nut butters, Haze lnut butter 50g 100% 0 Whisk into syrup, and heat to 170 c I 340 F.
see page 2418. Unsalted butter lOg 20%
Dried sour cherries, 20g 40% Fold into syrup.
Peaches or apricots are both
minced @) Pour hot mixture onto silicone mat. Cover with
exce llent substitutes for cherries in
Hazelnuts, peeled and 15g 30% second sili co ne mat, and roll out into layer 1 mm I
this sa lad. Use the stone fruit of
your choice in different forms-
minced X in thick.
fresh, dried, pickled, and pureed- Salt 2.2g 4.4% Cool until brittle, break into irregular shards, and
to add layers of texture and flavor. Baking powder 1.5g 3% store in cool, dry place.
CHERRY VINAIGRETTE Yields400g
Black cherry puree 90g 100% CD Whisk together.

Cherry pickling brine, 70g 78%
from above
Champagne vinegar 30g 33%
Roasted-hazelnut oil 105g 117% 0 Blend oils into vinaigrette base until em ulsifi ed.
Chamomile essential oil 0.3g 0.01 %
Salt 4.3g 4.75% Season and refrigerate.
SHERRY GEL CUBE

Yields215g
Water 50g 33% CD Steep blossoms in 70 c l 158 FwaterforlO min.

Chamomile blossoms 15g 10% 0 Strain and coo l.
Agar 2g 1.3% Disperse agar in cool chamomil e tea.
Sherry vinegar 150g 100% @) Mix into chamom il e base, and bring to a boil.
Pour quickly through fine sieve into desired mold, and
let set fo r 5 min.
Cut into 3 mm I Ya in cubes, and refrigerate.

26
SOUS VIDE LENTILS Yields 650 g
Carrots, thinly sliced 120g 34% CD Wrap aromatics in sachet.
Take care with the cooking water.
Celery, thinly sliced 50g 14%
If you use hard water, the lentils
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 120g 34% won't cook through; the calcium
Shallots, thinly sl iced BOg 23% in hard water reinforces the plant
leeks, thinly sliced 70g 20% tissue (see page 3-273). The same
Garlic, thinly sliced is true if the water is too acidic.
25g 7%
If it is too alkaline, the plant tissue
Thyme sprig 3g 0.8% dissolves too readily, and the
Bay leaf 2g 0.6% lentils turn to mush. We prefer
Black peppercorns 2g 0.6% distilled water.
Distilled water 1 kg 286% 0 Combine with sachet, and cook sous vide in 90 c I
French green lenti ls, 350g 100% 194 F bath for1 h 15 min.
soaked in cold water for 2 h 0 Rest for 30 min at room temperature.
Salt 17g 4.8% @) Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
Why do lentils split? Because the
Green hazelnuts, thinly 90g 26% Measure and reserve individua lly. seed coat softens faster than the
sliced
center. Presoaking dried lentils
Black radish, small dice 15g 4% helps alleviate this problem by
Chervil tops 15g 4% rehydrating both layers more slowly
Frisee tops 15g 4% and evenly. Split lentils don 't
reward you with a burst of texture
Chamomile blossoms 5g 1.5%
and flavor when eaten, so take the
(fresh)
time to presoak.
FRUIT S AND V EGETABLE S 271

SWEET PEA FRICASSEE
Crispy goat's milk, young ginger, cinnamon, sweet pea veloute
White meat stewed in its own juices, coated in a raux-thickened so have we. This is our light, vegetarian, springtime version.
cream or sauce-fricassee is classic French cuisine. In time, the We warm sweet garden peas, but not too much. If you heat
word, which is likely Old French (fricasser fromfrire, "to fry,"and them just above 70 c I 158 p, their delicate flavor turns from
casser, "to break, cut up"), became a catch-all term for nearly all "garden" to "cooked." The result is a bright, vibrant broth of pea
stewed meat dishes. juice, cinnamon, and lime. Although this light stew of fresh green
In the 1970s, chefs began to shed heavy sauces in favor of peas dressed with their own juice is a far cry from a true fricassee,
freshness and lightness. They were able to redefine fricassee, and you can see the lineage.

SPEC IAL EQUIPMENT: dehydrator
OPT IONAL EQU I PMENT: centrifuge
TIME REQUIRED: 2 h overall, including 1 h preparation and 50 min to assemble and finish
26
TIME TO
Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta Dumpling 1Smin 45 min* and 2 min 250g
Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice 1Smin 1 h* 192g
Sweet Pea and Young Ginger Fricassee Smin 2min 80g
Pickled Lemon 1Smin 8g
Pea Vine Salad Smin 1 min 100 g
GARNISH
Pea blossoms, picked 12
Pea tendrils, picked 12
Young ginger, small matchsticks 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Dehydrate ricotta dumplings at 45 c I US p for 45 min. To .finish:
Heat oil for frying dumplings to 195 c I 385 F. Toss together ingredients and vinaigrette for pea vine salad.
Deep-fry ricotta dumplings until crispy and golden, about 1 min.
While oil is heating:
Drain on paper towels.
Warm sweet peas and butter lettuce briefly in grapeseed oil.
Arrange sweet pea fricassee on each plate.
Season fricassee with lemon zest, young ginger, and salt.
Garnish with salad, pea blossoms, pea tendrils, young ginger, and
dumplings.
Finish with pea juice veloute at table.
Yields290g
CRISPY GOAT'S MILK RICOTTA DUMPLING
ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE
Goat's milk ricotta or 200g 100% 0 Blend togetherfully.

cow's milk ricotta
store-bought or see page 4108
Heavy cream 80 g 40%
Salt 1.2 g 0 .6%
Black pepper O.Sg 0.25%
Ultra-Tex4 8g 4% 0 Fold in to ricotta mixture.
{National Starch brand) {3%)* Roll in to logs 3 em I 2Y.. in. in diameter on nonstick
surface, using palms.
@) Cut logs crosswise into 3 em I 2Y.. in pieces.
Arrange pi eces on nonstick baking sheet.
Refrigerate.
Frying oil as needed 0 Reserve for service.
*(% oftotal weight ofgoat's milk ricotta and heavy cream)

26
CINNAMON-SC ENTED PEAJUICE Yields210 g
Sweet peas, frozen and 200g 100% 0 Wh isk together.
juiced
0 Centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
Cinnamon esse ntia l oil O.OSg 0.025% Fo r more o n centrifuging and
@ Strain.
{optional) a lternative methods of clarification,
Lim e juice to taste including step-by-step procedures,
@) Season broth.
see page 2364.
Salt to taste Refrigerate.
SWEET PEA AND YOUNG GINGER FRICASSEE Yields90 g

Sweetpeas 80g 100% 0 Vacuum seal.
0 Cook at70 c / 158 r for18 min .
Butter lettuce, lOg 12.5% Measure a nd reserve individua lly.
small leaves only
Grapeseed oil 3g 3.7S%
l e mon zest, fin e ly grated 0.2g 0.25%
Young ginger, brunoise 0.2g 0.25%
Salt to taste
PICKLED LEMON Yieldsl25 g

lemons lOO g 100% 0 Slice 1 mm I X in thick.
0 Place in rigid container an d rese rve.
Water lOOg 100% @ Co mbin e.
White wine vin egar SOg 50% @) Bring to a simm er to disso lve suga r.
Sugar 25g 25% Pour warm brine over le mo n sli ces.
@ Cool.
0 Vacuum seal, a nd refrigerate.
PEA VINE SALAD Yields200 g

Pea vines, tips only 120g 100% 0 Measure and reserve ind ivi du ally.
Pickl ed le mons, from 36g 30%
above, drained
Cinnamon basil leaves 15sma ll
lemon-infused olive oil 30g 25% 0 Whisk together to form vinaigrette.
Vermouth vinegar lO g 8.3% Refrigerate.
Lime juice Sg 4.2%
Microcrystalline 0.3g 0.25%
cellulose {optional; Avicel {0.85%)*
CG200, FMC BioPolymer
brand)
Black pe pper to taste
Salt to taste
*(%oftotal weight of.first three ingredientsfor vinaigrette)

26
STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO INSPIRED BY DAVID KINCH
Green strawberry, piquillo pepper, oxalis, macadamia nut oil
Gazpacho, the chilled soup most of us think of as defined by toma- Manresa in Los Gatos, California. In most recipes for gazpacho, the
toes, is older than the European arrival of the tomato in the 16th tomato nicely balances sweetness with acidity; why not, he thought,
century. The Moors brought the soup to Andalusia during the 8th use another fruit with similar qualities? Strawberry gazpacho is now
century. Their variant was known as ajo blanco and called for stale one of his signature dishes. One our chefs, Sam Fahey-Burke, made a
bread pounded with garlic, oil, and water. refreshing sour rhubarb sorbet as a subtle complement to the gazpa-
One excellent adaptation comes from chef David Kinch at cho, reinvigorating rhubarb's affinity for strawberries.
YIELD : Jour portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Pacojet or ice cream maker
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: centrifuge, freeze dryer
TIME REQUIRED: 13 h preparation, including 50 min preparation and 5 min to finish
TIME TO
Freeze-Dried Strawberry Powder 2min 12 h* 12g

store-bought or see page 3372
Strawberry Consomme 2min 2 h* 65 g
Strawberry Gazpacho 20min 12 h* 300g
Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry Salad 20min 1 min 80g
Seared Strawberry Smin 2min 100 g (four halves)
Sour Rhubarb Sorbet 1min 100 g
GARNISH
Macadamia nuts, chopped 8g

Macadamia nut oil Sg
Oxalis leaves 12
Green strawberries, thinly sliced 8g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Pacotize or temper churned rhubarb sorbet. Arrange one seared strawberry half in bottom of each shallow bowl.
Mix together elements of piquillo pepper and strawberry salad, and Spoon small bed of piquillo pepper and strawberry salad next to
season to taste. strawberry half. Top salad with small spoonful of rhubarb sorbet.
Coat halved strawberries with thin dusting of strawberry powder, Garnish with macadamia nuts, macadamia nut oil, oxalis leaves, and
and sear in grapeseed oil over high heat until charred, about 45 s. green strawberries.
Season with olaroso sherry vinegar and salt. Pour chilled gazpacho at table.
FRUI TS AN D VEGET ABL ES 277

STRAWBERRY CONSOMME Yields265 g
Strawberry juice 250g 100% CD Centrifuge juice at 27,500g for1 h.

For more on clarification by centrifuge and (from about
other methods, see page 2-364. 400 gof
strawberries)
Fructose 15.5 g 6% 0 Season juice, and reserve 65 g.
Fructose has been shown to
Malic acid 1.25g 0.5%
enhance the flavor profi le of many
fruits, including strawberries.
STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO Yields850 g
Strawberries, sliced 560g 100% CD Prepare ingredients as noted, blanching onions if

Cucumber, peeled, 140g 25% needed to remove sulfurous notes.
Preparing gazpacho in advance? seeded, and sliced 0 Vacuum seal together.

Create aIa minute flavor with th is Red bell pepper, steamed 115 g 20.5% Macerate in refrigeratorforl2 h.
trick from Heston Blumenthal. At for10 min, peeled, and @) Blend to fine puree.
the last minute, juice a small thinly sliced
Pass gazpacho through fine sieve.
amount of the princip le ingredi- Sweet onions, thinly sliced 115 g 20.5%
ent-whether red cabbage, Extra-virgin olive oil SOg 9%
tomatoes, or strawberries-then
White balsamic vinegar 20g 3.5%
add it to the exist ing gazpacho.
Enzymes already present in the Balsamic vinegar 13g 2.5%
soup attack components of the Garlic clove, crushed 2g 0.5%
added juice and rap idly regenerate Strawberry consomme, 65g 12% Add to gazpacho.
some of the aromas lost over time. from above 0 Refrigerate.
The fresh flavor comes right back. 2.7%
Lime juice 15g
Malic acid 2g 0.4%
Salt to taste
PIQUILLO PEPPER AND STRAWBERRY SALAD Yields 70 g
Strawberries, fine brunoise 35 g 100% CD Measure and reserve individually.

Cucumber, peeled, seeded, 20 g 57%
and fine brunoise
Piquillo pepper, fine 15g 43%
brunoise
Macadamia nut oil 2.5g 7%
Garden sorrel, julienne 1g 3%
Salt to taste
Us ing raspberries, wit h their bright
acid ity, makes for an outstanding
variation on this gazpacho. Other
fruits work, too.
278 VOLUM E 5 PLAHD-OISH REC I PES

26
SEARED STRAWBERRY Yields100g
Strawberries, halved 60g 100% CD Measure and rese rve individually.
lengthwise (two berries)
Freeze-dri ed strawberry 12g 20%
powder
see page 3372
Oloroso sherry vinegar Sg 8.3%
Grapeseed oil as needed
Salt to taste
SOUR RHUBARB SORBET Yiel ds780g

Rhubarb, thinly sliced SOOg 100% CD Vacu um seal.
Glucose syrup DE40 130g 26% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 c I 194 "Fbath for 2 h.
Sugar 30g 6% Pass through fine sieve.
Rhubarb juice 200g 40% @) Blend with cooked rhubarb.
(fro m 350 g of For more on juicing methods, see page 2332.
Adjust acid ity to taste.
rhubarb)
Freeze in Pacojet con tain er. Altern atively, churn in ice
White balsamic vinegar 9g 1.8% crea m machin e, and sto re sorbet in freezer.
(o r other se misweet white
vinegar)
Malic acid 3g 0.6%
FRU IT S AND VEGETABlE S 279

26
CRISPY CAULIFLO WER
Marcona almond, Anjou pear, chaat masala, tamarind pudding
In the Levant-Lebanon, Israel, Jordan, and Syria-humble cauli- The secret to making amazing fried cauliflower-with or with-
flower is transformed by frying, and then served hot or cold, often out chaat masala-is to get it a very crispy, nutty brown. Fry up big
with tahini sauce. We intended to do that, too. But when we tasted slabs, and then fry them longer. You will not burn them, because
the chaat masala made by Anjana Shanker, one of our chefs, the dish cauliflower doesn't have enough natural sugars to scorch easily. As in
immediately veered toward India. In a good chaat masala-one tempura, a surprising amount of moisture at the core will quickly
made by a master spice blender like Shanker-no single spice stands wick to the surface after cooking and turn fried cauliflower soggy, so
out. The resulting flavor is something new, something special. it should be consumed right away.
YI ELD : four portions

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: sous vide equipment, deep fryerj whipping siphon
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: colloid mill
TIME REQUIRED: 3 h overall, including 1 h preparation and 12 min to cook and .finish
TIME TO
Brown Butter lOmin 40g
see page 3213
Chaat Masala 20min lOmin 20g
Tamarind Puree Smin 1 h* 40g
Marcona Almond Butter Paste 2min lOOg
Cauliflower Foam lSmin 11,4 h* lSmin 200g
Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil lOmin 2 h* 160g
Deep-fried Cauliflower 2min Smin 4S0g
GARNISH
Curry leaves, julienne 10 g
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Heat frying oil to 195 c I 385 p_ To finish:
Load cauliflower foam into siphon, and warm in 70 c I 158 p Garnish each warmed plate with Marcona almond butter and
water bath for 15 min. Charge with two nitrous oxide cartridges. tamarind puree.
Deep-fry cauliflower steaks for 5 min, and florets for 3 min, until Place a fried cauliflower steak in the center of each plate.
both are golden brown and crispy. Drain with paper towels. Season Scatter pear spheres and fried cauliflower florets evenly among plates.
with salt and chaat masala. Finish each plate with cauliflower foam.
Dust plates with more chaat masala, and sprinkle with curry leaves.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 28 1

Cauliflower doesn't burn readily because
it contains low amounts of natural sugars. CHAAT MASALA Yields 70 g
It's important to fry cauliflower until it is INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
very dry and crispy, typically 5-8 min.
Coriander seeds 19g 76% CD Combine the spices, and roast in 175 c I 350 "F oven
Cumin seeds 15g 60% until golden, about 7 min .
Ajowan 3g 12%
Dried chilies 1g 4%
Salt 25g 100% 0 Combine spices with remaining ingredients.
Dried green mango Bg 32% Grind mixture to powder.
powder (amchoor) 0 Pass through fine sieve, and reserve.
Dry pomegranate seeds 4g 16%
(anardana)
TAMARIND PUREE Yields240 g
Tamarind paste 140g 100% CD Vacuum seal together.

seepage99
0 Cook so us vide in 90 c 1 194 "F bath for1 h.
Sour Indian plum 140g 100%
Pass through fine sieve, and measure 225 g.
(alubukhara)
Water 50g 36%
Coconut sugar 3.5g 2.5% 0 Blend with tamarind mixture.
(store-bought) Pass through fine sieve.
Xanthan gum 0.45g 0.32% Refrigerate.
(0.2%)*
Salt 1.5g 1.1%
Sherry vinegar 1g 0.7%
*( %oftotal weight afcoaked tamarind, plum, and water puree)
MARCON A ALMOND BUTTER PASTE Yields350 g
Raw Marcona almonds 500 g 143% CD Roast in 175 c I 350 "F oven until golden, about
15min.
0 Process roasted nuts with colloid mill or food
processor until smooth, and measure 350 g.
For more on making nut butters, see page Marcona almond butter, 350 g 100% Blend together to thicken.
2418. Store-bought almond butter also works from above
well here. Ultra-Sperse 5 10.5g 3%
Salt to taste 0 Season butter, and reserve.
282 VOL UM E 5 PlATE D- DISH RECI PE S

26
CAULIFLOWER FOAM Yields450 g
Whol e milk 375g 94% <D Simmer together for 20 min.
Cauliflower trimmings 300g 75% 0 Remove from heat, and steep for45 min.
Water 175g 44% Strain.
0 Measure 400 g of ca uliflower milk, and rese rve.
Cau liflower, thinly sliced SOOg 125% Brown ca uliflower in butters until very dark and For more on making brown butter,
Brown butter 20g 5% releases nutty aroma. see page 3-213.
Cocoa butter 15 g 4% Puree, and pass through fine sieve.
0 Measure 50 g of puree, and rese rve.
Cauliflower milk, 400g 100% Disperse gums in co ld cauliflowe r milk.
from above
Heat to 95 ' C / 203 ' F, and hold there for 3 min to
low-acyl gellan lg 0.25% hydrate fully.
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelko
@ Refrigerate until gel is set, abou t 5 min.
brand)
locust bea n gum 0.4g 0.1%
(TIC Gums brand)
Browned cau liflower 25g 6.3% @ Puree fully with gell ed cauliflower milk.
puree, from above
Salt to taste @ Season pureed foam base.
@ Refrigerate.
PRESERVED PEAR IN MUSTARD OIL Yields300g

Anjou pears 250g 100% <D Peel and core.
0 Scoop 12 spheres with me lon ba il er, and rese rve.
Mustard oi l lOg 4% Toast seeds and curry leaves in oi l until golden, about
Yellow mustard seeds lOg 4% 3 min, and reserve.
Water lOOg 40% 0 Combine, and warm to make syrup.
White w in e vin egar 75 g 30% Add mustard oil mixture.
Glucose syrup DE40 SOg 20% Vacuum sea l pear spheres with syrup.
Sugar 25g 10% 0 Refrigerate for 2 h before usi ng.
DEEP-FRIED CAULIFLOWER Yields450 g

Cau liflower, cut into 750g 100% <D Refrigerate until needed.
steaks 2 em I o in thick,
small florets reserved
Chaat masala, 20g 2.7% 0 Measure and reserve individually.
from above
Salt to taste

26
WATERMELON BULGOGI
Kimchi, ssamjang paste, perilla
Our play on the idea of faux meat takes up bulgogi, that addictive world 's most celebrated restaurants, Mugaritz, outside San
smoky, slightly sweet, tangy Korean barbecue. Traditionally, thinly Sebastian, Spain. As far as we know, Aduriz was the first to use
sliced sirloin is marinated overnight in soy sauce, ginger, sugar, compression as a technique in sous vide cooking, creatively modify-
sesame oil, and more, then grilled table side. Seattle has a large ing textures and flavors. (Read about how this works on page 2213.)
Korean community, so good bulgogi is just around the corner. A porous food changes completely. Watermelon flesh, for example,
But watermelon? It's a nod to one of the most innovative chefs turns a dense, deep red. We dehydrate ours a little, until it is slightly
working today, Andoni Luis Aduriz, the chef and owner of one of the chewy-just like a piece of rare meat.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: so us vide equipment, dehydrator
TIME REQUIRED : 13 h overall, including 2 h preparation and 2 min to cook and finish
TIME TO
Watermelon Meat lOmin 13 h* 20s 200g
see page 3 394
Watermelon Rind Kimchi 20min 12 h* 140g
Bulgogi Glaze Smin Smin 150 g
Ssamjang Paste Smin 100 g
GARNISH
Perilla leaves 12
Butter lettuce leaves 12
*(unattended times)
ASSEMBLY:
Sear dehydrated watermelon "meat" in very hot frying pan with a To finish:
thin layer of oil until golden brown on both sides, about 10 son Brush glaze over both sides of grilled watermelon slices.
each side. Spoon ssamjang paste on plates.
While watermelon meat is cooking: Arrange watermelon slices on plates.
Warm glaze. Finish with watermelon rind kim chi.
Serve with perilla leaves and butter lettuce leaves for wrapping.
FRUITS AND VEGETABlE S 285

WATERMELON RIND KIMCHI Yi e lds 14 0 g
Water 500g 250% CD Whisk together until salt and acid have fu lly dissolved
Salt 35g 17.5% to make pickling brine.
Scallions, thinly sliced 30g 15%
Sugar 25 g 12.5%
Ginger, minced 20g 10%
Garlic, minced Bg 4%
lactic acid 6g 3%
(7.2 %)*
Dried shrimp, minced 5g 2.5%

Bird's eye chilies, minced 2g 1%
Watermelon rind, peeled 200g 100% 0 Vacuum seal with brine.
and cut into strips 5 em I Refrigerate for12 h.
2inwide
@ Drain.
Refrigerate.
*(% oftoto/ weight ofwater)
2 86 VO LUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

26
BULGOGI GLAZE Yie ldss2sg
Soy sauce 250g 100% CD Blend together until sugar has dissolved.
Sugar lOSg 42% 0 Refrigerate.
Water 58g 23%
Ginger, finely minced lOg 4%
Garlic, grated lOg 4%
SSAMJANG PASTE Yields 275 g

Kochujang 135g 100% CD Combine to form paste .
(Korean chili paste)
Doenjang 85g 63% Refrigerate.
(Korean soybean paste)
Rice wine 27g 20%
Garlic, finely minced 14.5g 10.7%
Red Fresno chilies, finely lO g 7.4%
minced

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Ill
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IV VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH RECIPES

GLOSSA RY OF COOKIN G TERMS
00 flour-an Italian wheat flour milled Activa TI or TI-U-kosher variety of greens similar visually and nutritionally to
from only the core of the wheat grain, Activa. Contains only maltodextrin and spinach. Some have reddish purple color.
yielding a flour with high-quality protein transglutaminase. Sprinkle coating and amarena cherry syrup-syrup from a small,
that makes it excellent for forming noodles slurry application are not recommended; dark, slightly sour and bitter variety of Italian
and certain kinds of bread such as ciabatta. instead, use by directly mixing into a cherry that has a distinct almond aroma.
acetic acid-acid in vinegar, which gives it protein-rich food such as a forcemeat or amchoor-(amchur) dried green mango
a sour taste; available commercially. noodle dough. powder; used as a seasoning to add a tangy
Activa -(Activa TG) the brand name of Activa WM-see Activa TI. flavor.
a transglutaminase enzyme, sold by Ajino- Activa YG-variety of Activa designed for amontillado sherry-medium-bodied
moto, that crosslinks proteins. It is used to use with dairy products such as yogurt and Spanish sherry, a variety that begins as light
bond pieces of meat or seafood together and cheese. Contains maltodextrin, lactose, fino and is aged in casks, but is bottled
to strengthen other protein-rich foods, yeast extract, and transglutaminase. before it has made the full transition to a
including noodles, doughs, and dairy gels agar-(agar agar) clear, tasteless gelling dark oloroso.
such as yogurt and tofu. Varieties are agent derived from seaweed. Can also be amuse-bouche-French term for a bite-size
available that add supplemental ingredients used as a thickener or stabilizer. Available course designed to amuse the palate at the
to tailor each product to specific applica- from Asian markets or food ingredient beginning of a meal.
tions; each variety is denoted by two letters companies. The latter sell agar powder in angelica root-used as a flavoring in
after the name, such as Activa RM. Activa various grades by gelling strength, which liqueurs like gin, Chartreuse, and aquavit.
varieties are sold with different identifiers in makes for a more reliable product. Angelica stems are sometimes candied and
different countries: for example, Activa EB is agave syrup-(agave nectar) sweetener used as a garnish.
the same product as Activa RM. made from agave, a desert shrub-like anise hyssop-fresh herb in the mint
Activa EB-see Activa RM. succulent with sword-shaped leaves. Gener- family with a gentle licorice perfume.
Activa FP-variety of Activa that includes ally composed of glucose and fructose, but ankimo-Japanese word for monkfish liver.
hydrolyzed skim milk protein as an addi- contains smaller quantities of other sugars. annatto powder-ground orange-red pulp
tional protein source for stronger bonds. ajowan-(ajwain) tiny, seed-like fruits of a that covers the seeds of the achiote tree;
Hydrolyzed skim milk protein is hypoaller- variety oflovage with a flavor similar to used primarily as a food coloring; has a
genic and, thus, this version is often used as thyme and caraway. Used in Indian foods. slight peppery nuance.
an alternative to Activa RM (EB) when albumin powder-(albumen) dehydrated Anti-Griddle-PolyScie nce tool inspired
dairy allergies are a concern. Sprinkle egg white protein. by Grant Achatz that chills and freezes
application is not recommended. Aleppo pepper-medium-hot chili pepper foods, rather than heating them, on a flat
Activa GS-variety of Activa designed to from Syria with a complex, spicy flavor. stainless steel surface.
create very strong bonds in larger cuts of Most often sold as a coarse ground powder. apple pectin-see HM pectin.
meats and seafood. Contains sodium almond powder- (almond flour, almond aquarium salt-commercially available
chloride, gelatin, trisodium phosphate, meal) almonds ground very finely, with or blend of salts that mimic the composition of
mal to dextrin, and transglutaminase. without the skin. seawater. Intended to keep sea creatures
Generally recommended for slurry applica- aloe vera liquid-(aloe vera juice) gelati- alive in an aquarium. Not meant to be used
tion only, must be mixed with 10-25 oc / nous pulp from inside the leaves of the as a seasoning.
50-77 op water to dissolve phosphate salt. succulent aloe plant. Can be used as a arame-species of seaweed. The dark
Caution, slurry has a caustic pH of 11. thickener and gelling compound. brown, firm strands have a mild, naturally
Activa PB-see Activa FP. Alsatian bacon-heavily smoked, cured sweet flavor. Usually dried.
Activa RM-variety of Activa that includes bacon from Alsace in northeastern France. arborio rice-starchy, short-grain rice;
a mix of sodium caseinate, maltodextrin, alubukhara- (alu bukhara, aloo most often used in risotto and rice pudding.
and transglutaminase that can be applied via bokhara) sour dried plum or prune avail- argan oil-very rare and expensive oil made
sprinkle application, slurry, or directly able at Indian and Middle Eastern groceries. from the kernels of the Moroccan argan tree.
mixed into various protein-rich foods. The amaranth leaves-(purple spinach, Traditionally made from nuts that remain
most widely used variety of Activa. Chinese spinach) large family of edible after the fruit has been digested by goats.
v
aril-botanical term for the juicy pulp from the Moroccan mountains. blood pudding-(black pudding, boudin
surrounding a seed, like the flesh around belecan-(belachan) see shrimp paste. noir) emulsified sausage made with blood, a
pomegranate seeds or fresh nutmeg. bergamot-variety of yellow- green- cereal or bulking agent such as oatmeal, rice,
arlette-delicate French sweet made from skinned orange with a distinctive aroma, or chestnut flour, and spices.
puff pastry dusted with powdered sugar, used primarily for flavoring Earl Grey Tea. Bloom-unit of measurement used to grade
which is then rolled, thinly sliced, and betel leaf-(la lop) heart-shaped leaf of an gelatin.
flattened into paper-thin spirals that are evergreen creeping vine in the pepper family. bomba rice-Spanish, short-grain, white
baked until golden brown and crisp. A mild stimulantj commonly used by South- rice traditionally used for paella.
asafetida-(asafoetida, bing) dried east Asians as the wrapper for paan, spices bonito flakes-(katsuo bushi) shavings of
yellowish-brown resin from a plant similar to that are chewed after and between meals. cured, smoked, and fully dried bonito, a
fennel, with a strong, sulfurous aroma that bincho-tan-(white charcoal) Japanese variety of fish from the mackerel family. A
mellows into a garlic, onion flavor when charcoal prepared from oak. Highly re- principal ingredient in dashi, and also used
cooked. It is widely used in Indian cooking garded for steadily burning at a high tem- as a seasoning or garnish.
and is related to the extinct ancient laser plant. perature and producing very little ash. bottarga-Italian term for salted, pressed,
ascorbic acid-scientific name for Vitamin biodynamic-complex and almost mystical and dried fish roe used as a savory seasoning
Cj used as an acidifier and antioxidant to philosophy of organic farming based on the or side dish. Bottarga di muggine, a
prevent discoloration in certain plant foods. teachings ofRudolfSteiner (1861-1925). specialty of Sardinia, is made from gray
Bactoferm-(Bactoferm F-RM-52) brand bird's eye chili-fresh tiny, very hot, red mullet roe. Among the basic foodstuffs of
of freeze-dried bacterial culture used to and green chilies. Often used in Thai cook- Mediterranean countriesj known as
prepare fermented sausages. Made by the ing but similar varieties are used avgotaraho in Greek, batarekh in Arabic,
Christian Hansen Company. internationally. botarga in Spanish, boutargue in French.
bagna cauda-warm sauce or "bath" of bitter orange-(Seville orange) variety of boudin noir-see blood pudding.
olive oil, anchovies, garlic, and butter. A tart orange prized for the robust, intense bouquet garni-A classic French mix of
specialty of the Piedmont region of north- aroma of the zestj often used for making pungent herbs that is basic to French
western Italy. essential oils and orange marmalade. cuisine. The herbs include basil, chervil,
bagoong-see fish sauce. black cardamom-large, black variety of rosemary, peppercorns, savory, and tarra-
banchan-(panch'an) Korean term for an cardamom with a fibrous podj interior seeds gon. They are tied with string and/ or
assortment of small, often pickled or pre- have a slightly sweet and smoky flavor that is wrapped in a muslin sachet, added to dishes
served, side dishes such as kimchi that are milder than the common green variety. that require long cooking, then removed
traditionally served alongside rice at a meal. black gram-(urad dal) small oval-shaped when cooking is done.
Banyuls-high-end, fortified sweet red beans from India. Often split, skinned, and brandade-paste or puree of white fish,
wine similar to Port. Made in the Catalan ground into flour or pastes to make breads most often with salt cod, olive oil, and
Pyrenees of southwest France. such as dosa and idli. potatoes. A traditional dish in many regions
barbecued eel-(unagi, kabayaki) Japa- black onion seeds-(kalonji seeds, of the Mediterranean, especially the Basque
nese preparation of freshwater eel cooked nigella) tiny black seeds from a flowering and Catalan regions of Spain and Provence
over a grill and brushed generously with plant that are roasted and added to curries in southern France.
sweet soy sauce. Available frozen. or sprinkled on bread such as naan. Used in Brown Ribbon Pectin HV-a high meth-
Batter BindS-proprietary blend of the Bengali five-spice mix, panch phoron. oxyl pectin made by Obipektin. Requires a
modified starch made by National Starch, black radish-variety of winter radish with high concentration of dissolved solids,
used to make batters cling better to deep- rough black skin and peppery, white flesh usually sugar, and a low pH to gel.
fried foods . that stores very well. Peel before using. brunoise-diced into very small, uniform
bay leaf powder-ground bay leavesj best blanc manger-(blancmange ) a custard- rhomboid shapes.
made by freezing with liquid nitrogen and like sweet made with milk or cream, sugar, bulgogi-Korean term for marinated,
grinding with fresh bay leaves. and gelatin or cornstarch. Traditionally barbecued meat, usually beef, cooked over
bechamel-white sauce. A classic French made with pureed chicken meat or ground an open flame. Often marinated in soy sauce,
"mother sauce" of raux-thickened, mildly almonds and served cold. sesame oil, garlic, and sometimes sugar.
flavored milk. blanch-To briefly cook the exterior. To burdock root-(gobo) long narrow root
beignet-French term for a fritter, fried submerge food in boiling liquid briefly to commonly used in Japanese cooking. Should
dough, or batter. Can be sweet or savory. loosen a peel, sanitize its surface, or to be peeled and soaked in lightly acidulated or
Beldi olives-(beldi) meaty, purple olives remove undesirable tastes or aromas. salted water before using, to prevent it from
VI VO LU ME 5 PLA TEDDIS H RE CIP ES

browning and to remove any bitterness. they are consumed, or they can cause Champion juicer-brand of juicer that uses
burrata-fresh, soft Italian cheese made by stomach distress from mild toxins. a rapidly turning spindle with serrated teeth,
mixing mozzarella curds and cream caper berries-fruit of a caper bush. Most rather than centrifugal force, to grind and
wrapped inside a skin of mozzarella. often sold pickled with the stems intact. compress food. The process releases liquid
cake flour-flour milled from a relatively carbon black powder-natural, spray- and then separates it from solids by pressing
low-protein soft-grain flour. Frequently dried, food-grade black coloring. the food through a sieving plate.
chlorinated to alter the starch content so carpaccio-traditi onal Italian dish of raw chanterelles-(gir ole) wild, funnel-shaped
that very high sugar and water levels can be meat sliced or pounded very thin. Recently mushrooms, valued for their golden color
used for especially tender and moist cakes it has been used as a term to describe any and nutty, buttery flavor. Black, white, and
(so-called high-ratio cakes). food that is presented raw and paper-thin. grey varieties are less common.
calcium chloride-minera l salt of calcium, carrageenan, iota-vegetarian and vegan chawanmushi-(c hawan mushi) Japanese
used primarily to trigger gelling for sodium gelling alternative to gelatin, extracted from term for savory egg custard steamed in a
alginate, low methoxyl pectin, and gellan a variety of red seaweed sometimes called bowl or cup, often made with seafood.
gels. Commonly used for spherification. Irish moss. Iota type makes soft, elastic gels. chervil-tender, parsley-like herb with a
calcium gluconate-combi nation of Also works as a stabilizer and thickener faint licorice taste; a traditional ingredient
calcium and gluconic acid. Often used as a when used at very low concentrations. in the French fines herbes mix.
replacement to calcium chloride because it carrageenan, kappa-vegetarian and chickpea flour- (besan, gram flour)
tastes less bitter. Typically used at three vegan gelling alternative to gelatin, extract- gluten-free flour milled from dried chickpeas.
times the concentration of calcium chlo- ed from a variety of red seaweed sometimes chickpeas-(garb anzo, ceci, Bengal
ride for a similar gelling effect. called Irish moss. Kappa type makes firm, gram) high-protein legume. Available dried
calcium gluconolactate- (calcium lactate brittle gels. Best with dairy products. or canned but rarely fresh.
gluconate) a calcium salt oflactic and carrageenan, lambda-stabilize r and Chinkiang vinegar- (Zhenjiang) Chinese
gluconic acids that is often used as an thickener extracted from a variety of red black vinegar with complex flavor from
alternative to calcium chloride because it seaweed sometimes called Irish moss. fermentation; commonly used in sauces,
has a slightly less bitter taste. Typically used Lambda type does not gel. marinades, and braised dishes.
at 2.2 times the concentration of calcium cassava root-(yuca, manioc) starchy, chinois-a cone-shaped sieve with a
chloride for a similar gelling effect. tuberous, tropical root considered a food handle; usually made from fine steel mesh.
calcium hydroxide-(slak ed lime, pick- staple in many regions. The source of choucroute-Fren ch word for sauerkraut.
ling lime) potent alkali salt used to cure tapioca. Varieties of bitter cassava contain Choucroute garnie is classic Alsatian winter
lutefisk and olives. Can cause caustic burns cyanide and related compounds and must meal of sauerkraut with sausages and other
if handled incorrectly. never be eaten raw. pork products, charcuterie, potatoes, goose
calcium lactate-calcium salt oflactic acid. cavitation-the formation of void- or fat, dry white wine, and spices. Choucroute
Often used to trigger gelling with various vapor-filled bubbles in a liquid via a fast- royale is a grander version commonly made
hydrocolloids, especially dairy-based gels, moving solid object, such as a propeller, or with foie gras, wild game, and Champagne.
because it tastes less bitter than calcium via sound waves. The collapse of the bubbles chufa-(tiger nut) dried tuber of a type of
chloride. Used at 1.5 times the concentration creates strong shock waves. tropical sedge, among the oldest cultivated
of calcium chloride for a similar gelling effect. cellulose acetate sheet-food-grade plants. Used for making Spanish horchata.
calcium sulfate-(gypsum ) a commonly transparency sheet, used as a casting surface cilantro 'Delfino'-a feathery, intensely
occurring calcium salt that is traditionally for smooth, glossy results. green cilantro with a spicy flavor.
used as a coagulant when making tofu. Can cellulosic gums-family ofhydrocolloids cinnamon basil-aromatic variety of basil
be used as a calcium source for gelling other derived from plant fiber, includes methylcel- that contains the compound cinnamate.
hydrocolloids. Used at 1.2 times the lulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and cipolline-small, flat, onion-like bulbs of
concentration of calcium chloride to provide carboxyl methylcellulose. the grape hyacinth, originally from Verona,
approximately the same concentration of cha plu leaf-see betel leaf. Italy. Often served as a vegetable in sweet
calcium ions to trigger gelling. chaat masala-combina tion of spices used and sour preparations.
candlenuts-(kuk ui nuts) slightly bitter as a sprinkle on everyday foods and fruits in cockscomb-flesh y, red display skin on a
tropical nut with a very high oil content India. Blends vary by region and producer. rooster's head.
traditionally used as an ingredient in chaat-term used in India to refer to coconut cream-thick creamy liquid made
Hawaiian poke and to enrich Southeast snacks, which are often savory dishes sold by by grinding fresh coconut meat in water,
Asian curries. They must be cooked before street vendors. then skimming the fatty "milk" from the top.
V II
coconut sugar-granulated sweetener cream of tartar-a potassium salt derived seasoning or fried crisp as a garnish.
made from the condensed, crystallized from tartaric acid, usually as a by-product of daikon radish-giant white radish, crisp
nectar of the coconut palm blossom. wine making. and slightly sweet.
coconut water-the liquid inside young, creamed honey-honey that has been dashi-(hon dashi) clear Japanese broth
fresh coconuts. Not to be confused with whipped until it is opaque and spreadable. made with kombu and dried bonito flakes; a
coconut milk. creme fraiche-French term for thick and primary building block ofJapanese cooking.
cold-smoke-to flavor and assist in pre- tangy cream; traditionally prepared by wild The first extraction is called ichiban dashi,
serving food with smoke at moderate fermentation, but now prepared with a the second is niban dashi.
temperatures, generally below 30 c I 86 F, commercial culture. decant-to pour a liquid from one vessel to
for up to a month. Crisp Coat DC-proprietary blend of another, often for the purpose of separating
colloid mill-heavy-duty grinding ma- modified starch from National Starch. Used liquid from sediment.
chine used to reduce foods (especially to prepare batters that produce fried foods deckle-name for the muscle cap on loin
durable foods like nuts) into very small with a delicate, crisp crust. cuts, particularly a rib eye steak.
particles. Also used to prepare emulsions. cromesquis-frie d, crispy foie gras fritters, deeply chill-to hold food, usually meat or
Comt1~ -French, aged cow's milk cheese popularized by French chef Marc Meneau. seafood, a degree or two below the freezing
with a nutty flavor similar to Gruyere. croquant-French term for crisp. Also, point of pure water so that some, but not all
Condrieu-Frenc h white, northern Rhone crunchy sugar glass made from fondant. of the water in it is frozen. Also, to cool a
wine usually made from Viognier grapes. croquetta-typica l Spanish tapa of bat- liquid to just above the freezing point of
confit-a French term that literally means tered, fried bechamel flavored with chicken, pure water, which causes certain types of
"preserved." Meat confit has historically fish, or vegetables. gels to set rapidly.
meant a preparation of salt-cured meat crosnes-(Chines e artichoke) small, deglaze-to add liquid to a pan to dissolve
cooked and kept in fat to provide an airtight crunchy, caterpillar-shaped, tuber with the flavorful brown film and bits formed
seal that helps preserve the food. For fruits, sweet, nutty flavor similar to artichokes. from dehydrated juices when many foods
confit or confiture means preserves-as in crown-cut of poultry that includes the are cooked at a high temperature.
jams and jellies. Con fit has come to mean breasts, rib cage, and wings. deodorized cocoa butter-pure cocoa
almost any food cooked slowly in oil or fat cryomeringue-fl avorful foam of egg butter with the natural aroma removed,
until tender. white frozen in liquid nitrogen, often until usually by distillation. Use only food grade.
consomme-thin , flavorful, and very clear crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. deoiled soy lecithin powder-see soy
liquid. Traditionally made from meat cryopoach-to bathe in liquid nitrogen. lecithin powder.
broths; today, often prepared from vegetable cryorender-techn ique that involves desalt-to soak in water to remove salt so
and fruit juices as well. alternating cooking at a very high tempera- that very salty cured foods like salt cod are
Controne hot pepper-an Italian variety ture with either a resting step on dry ice or a palatable in certain preparations.
of hot, dried chili, often sold coarsely quick dip in liquid nitrogen to freeze the Dewar bowl-insulated bowl used to hold
ground. flesh just beneath a fatty surface layer. liquid nitrogen when dipping or poaching.
cooking to core-(cooked to core) phrase cryosear-techniq ue of flash freezing food Dewar flask-vacuum-ins ulated vessel
used to describe the technique of cooking an with dry ice or liquid nitrogen before designed for storing and dispensing liquid
ingredient to a specific core temperature that exposing it to high-temperature searing or nitrogen or other cryogens.
is identical to the temperature of the sur- deep-frying. dextrose equivalent or DE-scale indicat-
rounding environment. The more traditional cubeb-(Java pepper, tailed pepper) ing the effective level of glucose in various
method is cooking "hotter than core" in an wrinkled, hard, round spice with the look products, including confectioner's syrups
environment hotter than the desired final and taste of black pepper and a hint of and maltodextrins: 100 equals pure glucose
core temperature of the cooked food. allspice. (or dextrose), 1 equals pure starch.
core temperature-tem perature at the very cure-to preserve food with salt. Often dextrose-also known as glucose, but not
center of the food . Usually established by a combined with smoking. Confusingly, a to be confused with glucose syrup, which is
probe thermometer. curing brine is sometimes called a "pickle," not 100% glucose sugar. Perhaps the most
cornichons-tiny , tart, and crunchy and sometimes foods pickled in an acidic common sugar in nature, dextrose has a
pickled gherkins or small cucumbers. solution are referred to as cured, although sweetness approximately half that of sucrose
crab liver-creamy yellow or yellow-green the underlying processes are different. (table sugar). It is commonly added to
paste (the hepatopancreas) from fresh crab; curry leaves-small, green, complexly fermented food preparations, such as
eaten alone or added to enrich sauces. flavored herb widely used in India as a sausages, to fuel fermentation bacteria.
VIII VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH RECIPES

diglycerides-a family of emulsifiers that tate out of a liquid. The technique is widely grow in long, narrow oblongs resembling
are incomplete fat molecules with only two used to aid the pressing stage or clarifica- fingers. Ideal for potato puree preparations.
fatty acid "tails" attached to a glycerol tion process for juices, wine, or beer. fish sauce-(garum, nam pla, nuoc mam,
"backbone." enzyme peeled-the removal of the cover- muria) clear, salty condiment or seasoning
disperse-to evenly distribute, an impor- ing membrane of citrus segments by soaking made from salted, fermented fish. Used
tant step when working with hydrocolloids. in a solution that includes pectinase. widely in Southeast Asian cuisine.
distillate-vaporized and then condensed Novozymes brand Pectinex is a common flaky salt-salt crystals that grow as broad,
and collected essences that are, typically, brand that is designed for this purpose. flat flakes. Maldon brand sea salt is a well-
the desired product of distillation. escabeche-spicy, tart Spanish sauce known example.
dosa-South Indian pancake made from a usually made with vinegar, garlic, and flash-to expose food to extreme hot or
lightly fermented batter of beans (urad dal) onions. Traditionally a technique oflightly cold temperatures, such as flash freezing
and rice. pickling cooked foods like fried fish to with liquid nitrogen or flash frying with hot
dried scallop-(conpoy) cooked, salted, prevent them from spoiling. oil or in a hot pan.
dried, and aged scallops. A costly traditional escolar-(white tuna, butterfish) rich fish flattened rice flakes-(poha, beaten rice)
food in China used as a flavorful and salty that is sometimes eaten raw as sashimi. quick-cooking white rice from India that has
seasoning. A key ingredient in XO sauce. Eating more than 150 g can cause stomach been flattened. Used to make puffed rice or
dry blend-evenly combine dry ingredi- distress in some people due to naturally fermented batters like dosa.
ents before adding them to a recipe, an occurring gempylotoxin (wax esters) that fleur de sel-French, fine-grain sea salt that
important step when combining various cannot be digested. is harvested by hand from tidal pools.
hydrocolloids for thickening or gelling. Espelette pepper-small, dried, medium- fluid gel-any gel that is set and can then
dry-bulb temperature-a temperature hot chili from the Basque region of south- be sheared to a highly thixotropic (shear-
measurement of air. Unlike the wet-bulb west France. Commonly sold as a coarsely thinning), fluid consistency, or a gel that is
temperature, humidity in the atmosphere is ground powder. stirred as it sets so that it remains fluid.
not a factor in the measurement. essential oil-concentration of volatile Often used as an alternative to traditional
dulse-(dilsk) red algae or seaweed used in aromatic compounds from spices, herbs, thickeners because of their clean mouthfeel
a variety of cooking applications and served flowers, and other botanicals. Used widely and excellent flavor release property.
as a snack food. Can be used fresh or dried. in perfumery, but many are food grade. fluke-(flounder) various kinds of flat fish.
edamame-green soybeans, often sold in farce-French term for stuffing or forcemeat. FMC BioPolymer Viscarin TP 389-a
the pod. fenugreek leaves-fresh greens from a brand and grade of sodium alginate.
egg yolk powder-dehydrated egg yolk plant in the pea family. Fenugreek seeds are foie gras fat-fat that is collected after
powdered by spraying or grinding. Often used as a spice. The taste is bitter when raw cooking foie gras.
used as an emulsifier, it can also be used to but becomes sweeter when cooked. fondant-French word for melting; used to
add concentrated egg flavor without water. fermented black bean and chili paste- describe a food that is meltingly tender.
elderflowers- (elder blossoms) small, commercially available. Also, a pliable paste made from carefully
aromatic flowers from an herbaceous shrub, Fermento-a commercial culture of recrystallizing sugar syrup so that it has
often used to flavor a sugar syrup. prefermented skim milk powder and whey microscopically fine sucrose crystals.
elephant garlic-plant in the leek family protein. It is added to forcemeat preparations fond-French term for a dish 's base or
that forms large, mild, garlic-flavored bulbs. to eliminate the traditional fermentation foundation, such as a stock or broth.
enocianin-pigment that imbues a red to step by directly lowering the pH of the forbidden rice-especially nutritious strain
purple color to the skin of red grapes. Also mixture. of Chinese black rice once reserved for
sold commercially as a powder used to fiddlehead ferns-tender, edible, coiled royalty. Consists of small smooth grains
impart their purplish-red color to beverages. sprouts of the fiddlehead fern. Collected in that, when cooked, do not have the gluti-
enoki-(enokitaki) tiny, long-stemmed early spring. nous quality of many Asian rice varieties.
mushrooms with a mild flavor. Cultivated fines herbes-A traditional French mix of forcemeat-finely ground mixture of salted
enoki are usually white; wild are often brown. herbs, including fresh parsley, chervil, and seasoned meat or seafood.
enzyme clarification-method of clarify- chives and tarragon, that is ubiquitous in freeze-concentrate-to concentrate by
ing liquids by adding a commercially French cuisine. Marjoram, cress, and lemon slowly freezing water and then decanting,
prepared enzyme such as Novozymes balm may be added. straining, or centrifuging the flavorful liquid
brand Pectinex Smash XXL. Causes fingerling potatoes-varieties of waxy, from ice crystals.
suspended solids to aggregate and precipi- thin-skinned, slightly sweet potatoes that frenched-butcher's technique of cleaning
IX
and scraping away meat to expose the bone gentian flowers-wild yellow or blue fleshy outside and the inner shell has not yet
for a more elegant presentation. Lamb chops flowers, a key ingredient in several liquors. hardened. The flavor is slightly sour. Also,
are commonly frenched. gentian root-key ingredient in Angostura almonds that have not been dried or aged.
fresh turmeric-fresh rhizome of the bitters. green garlic-see Spring garlic.
turmeric plant. geoduck-(king clam) a huge bivalve green hazelnuts-(cobnuts) young
fresh wasabi-fresh green root sometimes mollusk with a very long siphon, native to hazelnuts that still have their tender, green
called Japanese horseradish. Freshly grated the northwest coast of North America. husk. Cracked and eaten fresh or added to
wasabi is much more delicate and floral than ghee-slowly clarified butter used promi- recipes for a nutty, legume-like flavor.
dried or commercially prepared wasabi paste. nently in North Indian cooking. green mango-tart, firm mango picked
fricassee-(fricassee) a white meat prepa- Glice-emulsifier made by Texturas. A before it has ripened. Can be pickled or
ration, traditionally chicken, that is stewed proprietary blend of monoglyceride and added fresh to South Asian dishes; dried, it
in a white gravy. Various vegetables are diglyceride emulsifiers. makes the Indian seasoning amchoor.
often incorporated and the gravy sometimes glucono delta lactone-(GDL) an acidic green walnuts- (wet walnuts) fresh
includes white wine. compound produced by the fermentation of walnuts that have not been dried for storage.
frisee-(curlyendive) a wiry, ruffied, glucose. Used as an acidifier, in fermenta- gremolata-Italian condiment of chopped
slightly bitter green in the endive family that tion, as a coagulant in tofus, as a seques- parsley, garlic, and citrus zest. Traditional
is used in salads or lightly braised. trant, and occasionally as a component in accompaniment for osso buco, Italian
fructose-sugar that is about 1.5 times as baking powders. It is valued for its slow braised veal shanks.
sweet as sucrose (table sugar) that is found acidifying effect, which can occur over groats-hulled, crushed grains, such as
in many fruits and honey. Granulated minutes or hours depending on conditions. barley, buckwheat, or oats.
fructose is commercially available. glucose syrup-a syrup prepared by guar gum-thickener from the endosperm
fumet-fish stock or the cooking liquid degrading starch into glucose sugar. The of guar seeds. Similar to locust bean gum.
collected from fish or shellfish preparations. conversion is never complete, and all syrups gum arabic-(gum acacia, chaar gund)
furikake-Japanese seasoning mix often are given a DE number (typically between water-soluble gum from the hardened sap of
used as a seasoning for rice. Usually contains 36 and 47) that indicates how completely acacia trees. Contains a complex mix of
seaweed flakes, dried fish, and sesame seeds. starch has been converted into glucose. polysaccharides and glycoproteins, it is used
galangal-variety of ginger rhizome (root). glucose-see dextrose. as a stabilizer in the manufacture of food
It tastes like ginger with a little more pepper glycerin flakes-a generic name used products, particularly confections. Often
and light camphor aroma. Often used in (incorrectly) for a blend of monoglyceride used as a glaze that can be dried to a hard,
Thai cooking. and diglyceride emulsifiers. shiny coating.
gapi-see shrimp paste. glycerol monooleate-powerful purified gunpowder tea-aromatic green tea made
garam masala-Indian spice mix that monoglyceride, an emulsifier. from individual leaves that have been rolled
traditionally includes pepper, cumin, glycerol monostearate-purified mono- into pellets.
cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom, but there glyceride used as an emulsifier. halvah-(halva) popular Middle Eastern
are many variations. Often ground finely glycerol-(glycerin) a slightly sweet- confection made from ground sesame seeds
and added at the end of cooking. tasting liquid, edible humectant used to and honey; sometimes with almonds,
garlic scapes-immature flower stalk of the maintain moistness in many baked goods, pistachios, nut butters, and sugar added.
garlic plant. Can be sauteed and served as a also useful in foods like gels and edible films. hamachi-(yellowtail,J apanese amber-
green vegetable. gnocchi-Italian term for dumpling. jack) a variety of round fish very popular as
garum-ancient Roman fish sauce made by Typically made with potato or semolina. sushi or sashimi.
fermenting and drying the salted innards of golden oregano-variety of oregano with hard cider-apple cider that has been
mackerel or similar fish. Substitute nam pia. yellow leaves and a delicate, peppery flavor. fermented and contains alcohol. Fermented
gastrique-sweet and sour sauce, often grains of paradise-ancient spice with a cider is also made into vinegar and brandy,
made with a caramelized sugar dissolved in peppery bite, commonly used in North such as Calvados in France.
vinegar and sometimes fruit juice. The African and West African cooking. hazelnut flour-finely ground, dried
mixture is reduced to taste. Fruit is often granita-flavored ice similar to sorbet but hazelnuts, often pressed to remove the oil
added to the caramelized sugar as well; it is with large ice crystals that form as a result of before milling.
cooked to a pulp during the reduction. low sugar and dissolved solids content. hermetically sealed-water and airtight.
gellan-see low-acyl gellan or high-acyl green almonds-developing fruit of the high-acyl gellan-(Kelcogel LTIOO) a
gellan. almond, picked when still green, moist, and hydrocolloid that makes opaque, soft, elastic
X VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH RECIPES

gels at low concentrations. Particularly isomalt-sugar substitute composed of one pepper bite. Dried, ground leaves are also
useful in dairy gels. molecule each of glucose and mannitol that called sansho.
hijiki-dried, brown seaweed that resem- is about half as sweet as sugar. Suitable for kochujang- (gochujang) Korean chili
bles twigs when dried and noodles when diabetics. Often used in confectionery work paste.
reconstituted. Used in soups and salads. because it does not color at high tempera- koenjang-(doenjang, dhwen-jang)
HM pectin-see pectin. ture and is not very hygroscopic, which Korean fermented soybean paste.
hoisin sauce-(Peking sauce) sweet, spicy means it doesn't get sticky in a humid Koji-Aji-a powdered flavor enhancer and
reddish-brown Chinese sauce made from environment. MSG substitute made by Ajinomoto. Made
soybeans, garlic, chili peppers, and spices. jamon lberico-(pata negra) a cured with fermented wheat protein, yeast extract,
hops-bitter, conical flower of the hop vine Spanish ham from black-footed Iberian pigs. and maltodextrin (as a bulking ingredient).
used primarily in beer brewing. Considered a superior ham for its complex, kombu-Japanese term for dried kelp, an
horchata-sweet beverage originally made nutty, and slightly sweet flavor. Jamon important ingredient in the flavor and
from chufa nuts, but now often made with Iberico de Bellota is a luxury ham made seasoning ofJapanese food. Many varieties
rice or almonds. from Iberian pigs that feed on wild acorns. and grades are commercially available.
hot smoke-the process of smoking food at Japanese cucumber-(suhyo) long, Kombu powder is ground dried kelp.
temperatures typically above 60 oc I 140 op, narrow cucumbers with thin, spiny skin and konjac gum-(konjac flour) a hydrocolloid
resulting in a fully cooked product. tender, crisp flesh. thickener made from the dried, swollen
hydrate-made to fully absorb water, an Japanese puffed rice-snack food that stem (corm) of the konjac plant, native to
important step when using hydrocolloids resembles slightly larger version of a puffed- tropical Asia. Konjac flour has 10 times the
that renders them functional. To be fully rice American breakfast cereal. thickening strength of natural cornstarch.
hydrated, most must be heated above a julienne-to cut into thin sticks. kudzu-(kuzu) starch used for thickening;
certain temperature that depends on the kabocha squash-(kabocha, Japanese made from the root of a climbing vine.
specific hydrocolloid and nature of the pumpkin) round, sweet winter squash with kukui nut-see candlenuts.
liquid it is dispersed in. green skin and bright orange interior. Kumamoto oyster-very popular, small
hydrocolloid-any substance that thickens kalbi-(galbi) Korean word for "rib." Pacific oyster with a cupped shell; cultivated
or gels water, or a liquid containing a Usually refers to sliced short ribs. Also from Canada to Mexico.
significant fraction of water. describes a soy sauce marinade used in kuri chestnut-large, sweet, Japanese
hygroscopic-any material that strongly Korean barbecue. chestnut.
binds water molecules; will readily absorb kalonji seeds-see black onion seeds. Kusshi oysters-small, deep-shelled
moisture from the atmosphere. kampachi-(kanpachi, almaco jack) Pacific oyster from British Columbia with a
ice plant-(ficoide glaciale, ice lettuce) a young yellowtail, often served as sushi or characteristic sweet flavor.
succulent heirloom green from France that sashimi. Popular large fish, frequently lactic acid-the acid found in sour milk,
appears to be covered in frozen droplets of farmed, with 30% fat content; high in yogurt, cheese, and many other dairy foods.
water; it has a mildly salty taste and can be omega-3 fatty acids. Can be used to give a preparation a dairy-
used to add texture to salads. kaolin day powder-edible clay. Some- like tartness. Also can be used as a coagu-
Idiazabal-firm, aged sheep's milk cheese times used as a thickening ingredient. lant for protein gels.
from the Basque country of Spain with a kapi-see shrimp paste. laminate-to separate into thin layers, or to
nutty, buttery flavor. kecap mani-thick, sweet, Indonesian soy compress those layers into one, strong sheet.
immersion blender-(stick blender) a sauce used as an ingredient or condiment. In cooking, a technique oflayering pastries,
handheld electric device that chops, blends, Kewpie mayonnaise-popular brand of dough, or other material to build distinct
and purees food in the container where they Japanese mayonnaise made with rice constructions.
are being prepared. vinegar that includes a small amount of langoustine-small, Mediterranean spiny
Indian eggplants-small, round purple monosodium glutamate for an enhanced lobster, an ingredient in many traditional
eggplants similar in size and shape to an egg. umami taste. European seafood preparations.
Insta Cure No. !-curing salt blend of king trumpet mushroom-(royal trum- laver-smooth, broad leaves of tender algae
93.75% salt, 6.25% sodium nitrite, and pet, king oyster) largest species of oyster used to make nori sheets. Eaten fresh in
safety coloring. mushroom with a firm texture. Europe. Flavor evokes olives and oysters.
Insta Cure No. 2-curing salt blend of kinome-young leaves of the prickly ash or L-Cysteine-amino acid, often added at
92.75% salt, 6.25% sodium nitrite, 1% sansho plant, best in the spring when the very low concentrations to dough to weaken
sodium nitrate, and safety coloring. leaves are tender, with a citrus-like, bright gluten. Commonly used commercially to
XI
give hamburger bun dough a soft, flowing malic acid-acid derived from apples and yogurt. They thrive at 25-40 oc; 77-104 OF.
consistency that aids in shaping the buns. It many other fruits. Blends of various strains are available as
also ensures the buns don't rise too high malt syrup-sweet syrup, mostly comprised commercial fermentation starter cultures.
during proofing and baking. of maltose, derived from malted grains. methylcellulose-group ofhydrocolloids
lecithin-the principal emulsifier in egg maltodextrin-(dextri n) a carbohydrate derived from cellulose in plants that gel
yolks, also found in soybeans. Most com- from partly degraded starch. Frequently when heated and melt when cooled. Metho-
mercially available lecithin products are used as bulking agents, maltodextrins are cel is the brand name for Dow Chemical
derived from soy. available at different DE values (typically Company's brand of cellulosic gums, which
LM pectin-see pectin. between 4 and 22), with lower-numbered includes methylcellulose formulations.
lobster mushroom-large reddish-orange grades behaving more like starches and Meyer lemon-citrus cultivar thought to
fungus with a firm, dense texture. Not a true higher-numbered grades acting more like be a cross between a lemon and a mandarin
mushroom but a fungus that colonizes and glucose syrup when dissolved. orange. It has a thin yellow skin with a
alters a mushroom host, thus they must Maltrin MIOO-proprietary blend of pungent citrus aroma, a slightly sweet taste,
come from a trusted source. maltodextrin and corn syrup solids. and mild acidity.
locust bean gum-(LBG, carob bean malt-sprouted and kiln-dried grains. A miang-(miang kham) Thai snack food of
gum) hydrocolloid thickener extracted from sugar syrup, predominantly maltose, is savory tidbits wrapped in a cha plu or piper
the pods of the carob tree. A small amount derived from malted grains. betel leaf.
of protein impurity in the gum gives it mandolin-metal or plastic manual slicer microcrystalline cellulose-thickener
emulsification properties as well. on a thin plane with an adjustable blade. derived from plant cellulose. Not a gelling
lovage leaves-green, leafy plant similar to Manglitsa pork-meat from a breed of pig compound. Not to be confused or inter-
celery; long used in southern Europe as an originating in Hungary that has woolly hair changed with methylcellulose or other
herb or a green, often in savory pies. and highly marbled meat. cellulosic gums.
low-acyl gellan-(Kelcogel F) hydrocol- mannitol-mildly sweet sugar alcohol. Sold Microplane-brand of kitchen rasp, used
loid that makes clear, firm, brittle gels at low as a crystalline powder and used as a sweet- for fine grating or shaving.
concentrations. Requires specific concentra- ener or as a source of dissolved solids for mi-cuit-French term for "partially cooked."
tions of ions, usually calcium, to gel. stabilizing preparations. In its crystalline Describes foie gras served pink in the center
lutefisk-lye-cured fish (cod, ling, or other form, it has a slight mouth-cooling effect as a and fish warmed through but not flaky.
whitefish); eaten in Norway, Sweden result of the relatively large amount of heat mignonette-cold sauce with plenty of
(lutfisk), and parts of Finland and in the needed to melt and dissolve the crystals. pepper, red wine vinegar, chopped shallots,
American Midwest. manzanilla sherry-pale, dry sherry from and salt; traditionally served on oysters.
mace blade-a frond of the dried forma- Andalusia in Spain. Added to savory sauces mirin-sweet,Japanese rice wine similar to
tions that cling to the nutmeg seed. or served cold. sake but with a lower alcohol content.
macerate-to steep food in liquid to allow MAPP gas-preferred gas for kitchen miso-Japanese fermented soybean paste
flavors to infuse in or seep out. torches; burns very clean and hot. used for seasoning. Comes in many variet-
Maillard reaction-a complex set of Marcona almond-short, round, slightly ies. Shiro miso is pale and mild, aka miso is
reactions among amino acids and sugars sweet almond from Spain that is often sold a more mature red miso with.a more pro-
that creates the deep brown color and fried in oil and salted. nounced flavor and salty taste.
many of the essential aromas and flavors of marmalade-a citrus jelly with visible mochi-Japanese paste made of sweet,
baked, roasted, and fried foods . In cooking, pieces of suspended fruit and rind. glutinous rice.
the Maillard reaction usually occurs well marmelade-French marmalade. Usually monoglycerides-a family of surfactant
above the boiling point of water and is thick, slow-cooked fruit puree, traditionally emulsifiers with a single fatty acid "tail"
therefore associated with cooking methods with no recognizable fruit pieces. linked to a glycerol "backbone" molecule.
that use high heat. Browning due to the marrons glaces-French term for candied mother sauces-The four basic building-
Maillard reaction is often confused with chestnuts. block sauces of French cuisine: bechamel,
caramelizing sugar, which is unrelated. Mason jar-well-known American brand of espagnole, veloute, and allemande. First
maitake-(hen of the woods) wild mush- resealable glass canning jar. classified in the 19th century by renowned
room prized for an excellent savory flavor. matcha-Japanese green tea powder made French chef Anton in Careme.
makrud lime leaves-(kaffir lime leaves) from very high-grade tea. Moulard duck-(Mulard, mule duck) a
aromatic leaves of a thorny bush. Often used mesophilic culture-organisms used to hybrid duck that is widely grown for foie
in Thai cookery. create distinct, cultured flavors in cheese and gras and meat.
X II VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH RECIPES

muria-ancient Roman fish sauce made omakase- Japanese term for a menu high concentrations of dissolved solids such
from tuna innards; considered second- selected for the guest by the chef. Often as sugar present. Forms firm, elastic gels
quality compared to garum. described (somewhat erroneously) as the with a good flavor-release quality.
muscovado sugar-unrefined brown sugar Japanese equivalent to the Western idea of a pectin LM-(low-methoxyl pectin, apple
with a strong molasses flavor. tasting menu. pectin) modified pectin that will gel at
mushroom gills-dark, papery ribs that orange blossom water- (orange flower much higher pHs (less acidic) and with very
hold the spores; on the underside of mush- water) the hydrosol from the distillation of low levels of dissolved solids. Requires
room caps; used to color sauces. bitter orange blossoms, often flavors Middle calcium or another suitable ion to trigger
mushroom soy sauce-Chinese soy sauce Eastern, Turkish, and Greek cakes and pastry. gelling. Forms tender to firm, slightly brittle
flavored with straw mushrooms. osmanthus vinegar-a semisweet vinegar gels with a very good flavor-release quality.
Mutsu apple-(Crispin) yellow Japanese made with Chinese osmanthus blossoms. pectinase-enzyme from Aspergillus
apple. Has the aroma of fresh apricots. aculeatus, an enzyme that softens plant
myoga-(ginger bud) edible flower bud pacotize-to use a Pacojet to puree food. tissues. Used for enzymatic peeling.
from several varieties of ginger, often pain d'epices-French spice bread. Pectinex Smash XXL-brand name of a
shredded and used as a garnish for fish. palm sugar-(jaggery) unrefined, coarse Novozyme product used as an aid for
myoglobin-oxygen-car rying protein in sugar made from palm sap or sugar cane pressing and for clarification in the juice,
muscle fibers, related to hemoglobin. Its juice. wine, and brewing industries.
color varies from bright red to dark purple pancetta-cured, unsmoked Italian bacon, pectin-principal molecules that compose
depending on oxygenation. Certain condi- often prepared by rolling pork belly into a and bind cell walls together in plants. When
tions degrade the protein, giving it an cylinder. dissolved, it will form a gel under the right
unappealing brown color. pandan leaves-(pandanus) aromatic conditions; widely used for thickening and
nage-thin broth with bits of vegetables or leaves with a sweet, characteristic flavor; gelling fruit jams and jellies.
seafood that "swim" when the soup is stirred. pounded, ground, or used as a wrapper in Pen shell clam-(pinnidae) very large,
nam pla-see fish sauce. Malaysian and Indonesian sweets, drinks, triangular clam with an edible abductor
negi-(Welsh onion, Japanese leek) and savory dishes. muscle that is similar in appearance to a
slender, mild variety ofleek. panko-shredded or flaked white bread scallop.
neutral oil-any variety of cooking oil that crumbs from Japan used for breading. phosphoric acid-an acid with a distinc-
adds no strong or specific flavor of its own. papadam-Indian cracker made from lentil tive flavor that is a key ingredient in many
nori-sheets of edible seaweed (laver) paste. Dried wafers cook into crisp, slightly colas and sodas.
commonly used to make sushi rolls. Nori puffed snacks. pink salt-curing salt made with nitrites
flakes and nori powder are variations. paratha-pan-fried crisp, layered flatbread and or nitrates; pink coloring is added to
nougatine-hard, thin sheets of caramel- from India. prevent mistaking it for table salt.
ized sugar laced with nuts. Savory versions parisienne-cut into small round balls with piquillo pepper-a firm, cone-shaped,
can be made with less-sweet sugars. a melon baller or, in French, a cuillere fresh red pepper from Spain.
nuka-rice bran used to make nukazuke, a parisienne. pistachio powder-finely ground pistachios.
type ofJapanese pickles. pastis-high-alcohol, anise-flavored aperitif piston basil leaves-fresh leaves from a
N-ZorbitM-modified starch derived from popular in the south of France. variety of tiny, very aromatic basil.
tapioca; made by National Starch. Unique in pastry comb-large tool with teeth; used to plancha-Spanish word for griddle.
its ability to transform oils into powders that create even ridges and lines in pastry work. Pluot-(Dinosaur egg) the sweet, intensely
melt back into oils when wetted. pate de brik-thin North African pastry flavored hybrid of a plum and an apricot. Also
offal-organ meats. similar to phyllo. Forms the shell for sweet known as Dinosaur egg after the strange,
ogo-crunchy fresh seaweed with delicate, and savory pies (brik), such as Tunisian mottled skin found on some varieties.
lacy branches. A traditional ingredient in tuna-egg turnovers and Moroccan bisteeya. poke-Hawaiian raw fish dish made with
Hawaiian poke. pave-shaped like a brick or block. candlenuts, ogo seaweed, and local sea salt.
oiled lecithin-used as an emulsifier and pea vines-young tender shoots of edible polyglycerol polyricinoleate-(PGP R)
foaming agent. pea plants. Used fresh or stir-fried. emulsifier made from castor beans often
oleic acid-type of fat commonly found in pectin HM-(high-methoxyl pectin) used in chocolate to make it less viscous
many animal and plant foods. derived from fruit, usually lemon peel or when pouring. Should not be used at
oloroso sherry vinegar-vinegar made apple pumice, that will gel a liquid, but only concentrations above 0.4%.
from dark, nutty, Spanish sherry. at appropriately low pHs (acidic) and with polyphosphate-a family of phosphate
XIII
mineral salts with wide-ranging uses in food pregelatinized-( prehydrated) some ras el hanout-an essential North African
preparation. Sodium tripolyphosphate and commercially prepared, modified food spice mixture that can contain dozens of
sodium hexametaphospha te are often used starches that have been gelatinized during different ingredients, depending on the
in brines and cures; sodium tripolyphos- manufacture and then dried. This makes it whim of the person preparing it.
phate and tetrasodium phosphate are possible to skip the heating step to use starch red Fresno chili-medium-ho t pepper like
commonly used in forced-meat preparations. as a thickener. red jalapenos but with thinner walls; com-
Sodium tripolyphosphate, monosodium preserved lemon-fresh lemons that have mon in salsa. Green Fresno chili is milder.
phosphate, and sodium aluminum phos- been sliced open and rubbed with salt and red shallot-(Thai shallot) Asian small,
phate are all excellent emulsifying salts used spices to preserve them. Typical in Morocco dark pink shallot; more pungent than
in reconstructed cheese products; each salt and elsewhere in the Mediterranean. Western shallots.
yields a slightly different texture. Polyphos- pressure-fry-dee p-fry in a specialized refractometer-ha ndheld tool that is often
phates also can function as sequestrants for pressure cooker. calibrated to gauge sugar concentration
hydrocolloid preparations. proportional-inte gral-derivative (PID) (oBrix) in liquids. Available in other versions
Polysorbate-(Tw een and Span) a family controller-an automated digital controller calibrated for substances other than sugar.
of powerful emulsifiers derived from sorbi- for accurate control of temperature, used in Traditionally used in winemaking.
tol and fatty acids. Polysorbate 20, 40, 60, water baths, modern ovens, and high-end render-to separate out the fat.
and 80 are common versions, each suited to espresso machines. rennet-a collection of enzymes found in the
different emulsification jobs. Polysorbate 60 propylene glycol alginate-(PGA) thick- stomachs of mammals, and some plants, that
and 80 are especially useful in stabilizing ener and emulsifier. Although derived from aid in the digestion of milk. The active en-
high fat in water emulsions and foams. the hydrocolloid alginate, it does not gel. zyme that causes milk to coagulate, separat-
Tween and Span are specific brand names of propylene glycol esters (propylene glycol ing it into curds and whey, is called chmosin,
polysorbate. esters offatty acids)-emulsifier that is or sometimes rennin. Animal rennet comes
pomegranate molasses-thick syrup made insoluble in water. Consists of various from the fourth stomach of young calves;
ofboiled, tart pomegranate juice. propylene glycol mono- and diesters of vegetarian rennet is from plants, such as
pomegranate seeds-(anardana ) air-dried saturated and unsaturated fatty acids derived thistle or soybeans; microbial rennet comes
seeds, or arils, often used as an acidic agent from edible oils and fats. from fermented microorganisms.
for chutneys and curries. Chiefly from tart, pulao-Indian term for a savory rice dish. retort pouch-a sous vide bag that is
wild pomegranates. Pure-Cote B790-Brand name of a modi- specially designed to withstand high temper-
pomelo-giant, semisweet citrus fruit fied starch produced by the Grain Processing atures and is much more impermeable to
thought to be the ancestor of the grapefruit. Company; used for thickening applications gases than conventional sous vide bags.
Native to Malaysia. as well as making edible films . ribose-a sugar found in meat. It is an
pommes Sarladaise-potat oes panfried in quatre epices-French mix of, literally, important component in the Maillard
duck or goose fat with onions, garlic, and "four spices" used in France and the Middle reaction and the development of savory
chopped parsley. Traditional accompani- East. Usually made with pepper, nutmeg, aromas in cooked meat.
ment to duck confit in southwestern France. ginger, and cloves, but cinnamon is some- rillettes-a meat spread for bread or toast,
pommes soutllees-thin, lengthwise potato times substituted for ginger and allspice for made from meat that is slowly cooked in fat
slices fried at a low temperature to dehydrate pepper. and then shredded or pounded and sealed in
the slices, then fried again at a much higher quenelle-term for an egg-shape presenta- small pots under a layer of more fat.
temperature. The process makes them puff tion, made by transferring a soft substance ring mold-(flan ring) heavy metal ring
up to become light, crisp pillows. repeatedly between two spoons. A variation with rounded edges. Sold in various sizes for
ponzu-tangy citrus sauce used widely in on the name, in classical French cuisine, for baking tarts and flans.
Japan. Usually made with shoyu, mirin, and poached dumplings made from finely pureed rishiri kombu-high-qua lity kombu from
yuzu. fish (traditionally pike) or meat. Rishiri Island at the northern tip ofJapan.
potato flour-starch powder from potatoes. quinoa-ancient, tiny, round grain origi- roasted-coconut juice-juice of roasted
poularde-French term for a fattened pullet nally cultivated by the Incas. green coconuts. Often sold as a beverage.
(young chicken or other bird) used mainly ragout-French term for a stew. roulade-tradition ally a flattened piece of
for roasting. ragu-Italian term for a thick, slow cooked meat rolled around a filling. A savory, rolled
pregelatinized starch paste-(prehydra ted sauce or stew. presentation. Called roulage when sweet.
starch paste) similar to pregelatinized starch, ramps-wild leeks, gathered in the spring; royale-garnish for consomme made of
but not dehydrated into a powder. served whole or pureed. decoratively cut pieces of egg-white custard.
X IV VOlUME 5 Pl ATED DISH REC I PES

rye berries-boiled rye kernels. to allow hydration or to prevent premature slurry-a pourable mixture of solid particles
rye chops-chopped rye berries. gelling ofhydrocolloid gums such as dispersed, but not dissolved in a liquid.
sabayon-(zabaglione) warm dessert made sodium alginate, pectin, and gellan. Smithfield ham-traditional cured,
by gently heating and whipping together sev-crispy, fried vermicelli from India, hickory-smoked, and dried American ham
egg yolks, sugar, and wine, traditionally made from chickpea flour. from Smithfield, Virginia, and neighboring
Marsala. seviche- (ceviche) preparation of fish or areas.
sable-crumbly French cookie from Nor- seafood "cooked" by marinating it in an smoke gun-handheld miniature smoker,
mandy that can be flavored with almond or acidic citrus juice such as lime. similar in size to a tobacco pipe, that can be
citrus zest. Sometimes modified to become shabu-shabu-Japanese hot pot meal where used to direct smoke onto foods to enhance
a savory cookie or cracker. thin slices of raw meat and seafood are flavor or presentation. Several manufacturers
sachet-pouch of porous cloth, such as dipped in a hot, flavorful broth to lightly produce these, including Polyscience.
muslin, or paper to hold ingredients that will cook; served with a sesame-based sauce. smoked Hungarian cherry peppers-
be steeped in liquid. Shaoxing-one of the most famous Chinese small, sweet, smoky, dried peppers.
salmis-rich stew made with the carcass rice wines, originating from the eastern soccarat-flavorful, crispy rice crust that
meat of game birds or duck, cooked down to province of Shaoxing; similar to dry sherry. forms at the bottom of a paella pan, prized
a puree with butter and onions and then shear-to blend or mix by stirring. for both its flavor and texture.
thickened with a roux. Traditionally served shimeji-(hon shimeji) beech mushroom. sodium alginate-hydrocolloid that gels in
on toast using the leftovers from a roast bird. shishito pepper-type of mild, fresh, the presence of ions such as calcium and
salsify-a long, narrow root vegetable with Japanese green pepper. Typically served magnesium. Several grades with differing
black or grey skin and white flesh. Some- grilled with salt. viscosities are available.
times said to have a mild seafood flavor. shiso-Japanese term for perilla, an in- sodium bicarbonate-baking soda, a
salted pollock roe-see bottarga. tensely flavored annual with jagged edges in leavening agent.
salted shrimp-a Korean condiment the mint family. Widely used in Japanese sodium caseinate-principal protein in
consisting of tiny, brined shrimp. Used like sushi, sashimi, tempura, and salads. milk. Can function as a powerful emulsify-
fish sauce. shoyu-Japanese term for soy sauce. ing and foaming agent. Under the right
samba! bajak-dark, rich, Indonesian shrimp cracker puffs-crisp, puffy fried conditions it will gel, which is essential for
condiment of chilies fried in oil with garlic. crackers made from wafers of starch (usually cheese making.
sansho pepper-see Szechuan pepper. tapioca) and shrimp paste. A popular Indo- sodium citrate-the salt of citric acid. Often
sauce gun-funnel dispenser often used in nesian snack food. used as an emulsifier in reconstructed cheese
confectionery work. shrimp paste-(belacan, gapi, kapi) products. Used to impart a tart taste to many
sauce ravigote-French piquant sauce fermented ground shrimp sold in blocks. An beverages. Also functions as a preservative.
similar to a rich vinaigrette, or a veloute important seasoning in many South Asian sodium erythorbate-very potent antioxi-
brightened with lemon or vinegar. Often dishes. Available in many varieties and names. dant. In the U.S., bacon cures that use nitrite
with sauteed shallots or onions, capers, and Sicilian pistachios-bright green and salts must incorporated it to minimize the
herbs. Served warm or cold. revered for their flavor. The Italian pistachio creation of toxic nitrosamines when the
sea bean-(samphire, glasswort) succulent, nut is often sold shelled. bacon is fried or otherwise browned.
very salty coastal plant served as a crunchy silver powder-edible powder made from sodium hexametaphosphate-a polyphos-
salad green, vegetable, or garnish. Often mica and used for garnish and presentation; phate often used as a sequestrant that is
soaked or blanched to make it less salty. true silver is not approved for use in food. helpful in controlling calcium and other ion
sea urchin tongues-(uni) sacs containing Simplesse-brand name for a product made concentrations when working with certain
the edible gonads of sea urchin. Each spiny, by CP Kelco from whey protein. Used to hydrocolloids, including sodium alginate,
globular sea urchin has five plump tongues modify food textures to simulate the richness LM pectin, and gellans.
that radiate like spokes on a wheel in the and mouthfeel of fat. sodium hydroxide-alkali salt, also known
interior chamber of the animal. Sichuan chilies-red, dried, fragrant, mild as lye. Used in curing some lutefisk and olives.
semolina flour-finely ground, hard, yellow, chilies, unrelated to the chili pepper or black sofrito-fried mixture of oil, onions, green
durum wheat. The basic ingredient of most pepper. Indispensable in Szechuan cooking. peppers, and garlic that is considered the
Italian pasta and couscous. Sichuan peppercorns-(sansho) dried backbone of Latin cooking.
sequestrant-a chemical used to remove berries from the Chinese prickly ash that soldiers-English term for bread slices cut
(sequester) ions from solutions. Most often have a slightly hot, lemony flavor and a into sticks; typically dipped in the warm yolk
used to remove calcium and magnesium ions slight mouth-numbing effect. of a soft-boiled egg.
XV
sorbitan esters-see polysorbate. sumac-dried fruit of the sumac shrub. in texture to a classic tapenade.
sorbitol-sugar alcohol used as a texture Ground and used as a tangy, slightly astrin- tapioca pearls-beads or marbles of tapioca
modifier and emulsifier. gent spice, popular in the Middle East. Often cooked until they are tender but chewy with
sorrel, garden-leafy, tender green with a seen sprinkled on hummus. a mildly slick quality. Commercially avail-
bright, lemony flavor. Used in herb mixes, supreme-French term for a breast of able in various colors and sizes.
salads, and (when pureed) some sauces. chicken, duck, or other bird with the wing tapioca starch-purified starch taken from
sorrel, Indian-a small, bushy herb with a bone attached. It can also refer to a meat the root known as manioc, cassava, or yucca.
slightly bitter, very acidic flavor. product with bone, skin, and other extrane- Tarbais beans-white bean from Tarbes,
sorrel, wood-(oxalis) cloverlike, tender ous parts removed. It is sometimes used by near the French Pyrenees. Essential in classic
green herb with tangy citrus flavor. analogy to describe citrus segments served French stews such as cassoulet.
sons vide-a French term that literally without the skin, pith, membrane, or seeds. tartaric acid-powdered acid most often
means "under vacuum," but is more accu- sushi-quality-seafood that is so fresh it can derived from grapes. Used as an acidifier and
rately interpreted as "without air." Cooking be eaten raw, ideally "from the water today." antioxidant, and sometimes to prevent
sous vide often, but not always, involves sweat-to cook vegetables slowly in a crystallization in sugar syrup by converting
hermetically sealing food in flexible plastic minimal amount of fat, at low temperatures, some sucrose to noncrystallizing glucose.
bags and then cooking it at a carefully select- so that they will soften without browning. temper-various culinary meanings include
ed combination of temperature and time. sweet whey powder-byproduct of the heating slowly and gently, and progressively
soy lecithin powder-(deoiled lecithin manufacture of cheeses, such as cheddar and warming a mixture by adding a hot liquid. In
powder) emulsifier and foaming agent Swiss. Sweetness comes from lactose sugar chocolate making, it is the process of heating
usually derived from soybean. It is particu- that is drained away with the whey during and working the chocolate to manipulate the
larly good for making coarse and dry foams. cheese making. crystal structure of the cocoa fat to help
spatzle-German dumplings usually formed syneresis-weeping. The separation of a produce a characteristic snap and melt-in-
by sieving a soft dough into boiling water. liquid contained by a gel due to some form the-mouth quality.
Often fried in butter after boiling. disruption to the molecular structure of a Texturas-style syringe-large syringe for
spherification-technique ofturning gel. Warming, freezing, compression, and dispensing droplets. Product from the
liquids into gelled spheres, small or large, incompatible ingredients are just a few ways Texturas line created by e!Bulli restaurant.
using hydrocolloids that will gel only in the to trigger syneresis. Thermomix-a heavy-duty blender that is
presence of various ions, such as calcium. tagine-(tajine) spiced Moroccan stew capable of heating while it blends, or purees.
There are several variations on the funda- often served with couscous. thermophilic cultures-organisms used to
mental technique. tagine slaoui-earthenware stewing pot create distinct flavors in cheese and yogurt.
spot prawn-(Alaska spot prawn) variety with a tight-fitting cone-shaped lid used in Thermophilic cultures thrive at 45-80 oc I
oflarge, sweet, cold-water shrimp with making tagines. 113-176 F. Incorporated into commercially
characteristic white spots on a pink shell. tahini-oily paste of toasted, ground sesame available fermentation starter cultures.
Found in the North Pacific. seeds. thixotropic-the property of some thick-
spray-dried-powders formed by bulking tajarin-long, thin, rich egg noodles from ened liquids or fluid gels to become less
up liquids and processing in a spray dryer. the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. viscous when shaken or sheared. Also known
spring garlic-garlic that is picked in the takoyaki-Japanese fried, round dumpling as shear-thinning. Hydrocolloid thickeners
spring, when it is still very tender and mild, made with savory batter and cooked octopus. are often thixotropic to some degree, and
not fully matured or dried. tamago-Japanese sweet, firm, layered fluid gels are highly thixotropic.
Sriracha sauce-thick, red sauce made with omelet often served as nigiri sushi. titanium dioxide-white food coloring.
chili and garlic. Often used as a condiment. tamari-a dark, rich-flavored soy sauce that tobiko-Japanese term for the roe of flying
ssamjang-a thick spicy paste of chilies, is made with little or no wheat. fish. Often used in sushi.
fermented Korean soybean paste, and tamis-very fine mesh cloth used as a sieve. Tonka beans-aromatic seeds from a tree
seasonings. A condiment in Korean barbecue. tannin powder-a blend of components native to South America. They have heady
sticky rice-high-gluten, short-grain rice including tannic acid and the pigment aromas reminiscent of vanilla, almonds, and
that is often naturally sweet. enocianin isolated from red grape skins. cinnamon. They are banned for use in food
sucrose esters-emulsifiers derived from tapenade-traditional Provens:al paste of in several countries, including the U.S.
sucrose. Often used in beverages and olives, capers, garlic, and anchovies. Can also because the seed contains coumarin (also
confectionery. apply to a flavorful savory condiment similar found in cassia bark or cinnamon) which can
XVI VOLUME 5 PLATED-D I SH RECIPES

be toxic to humans in large doses. veloute-one of five French "mother White Lily biscuit flour-brand of soft
torchon-a method of preparing foie gras, sauces;" a savory liquid thickened with a wheat flour with a low protein content and a
traditionally by rolling it into a cylinder light or blond roux. low level of damaged starched (from the
using a kitchen towel (torchon in French) verjuice-(verjus) tart juice of unripe milling process) that yields especially tender
and then poaching the rolled foie gras. grapes, used as an acidifier and flavor biscuits, cookies, and other baked goods
Usually sliced and served cold. enhancer. popular in the American South.
transglutaminase-See Activa. Versawhip-brand of foaming agent and White Lily bread flour-brand of soft wheat
trehalose-(tremalose) , a sugar found in foam stabilizer. flour with a moderate protein content suitable
plants that help them survive droughts. In vin jaune-French for "yellow wine." A wine for some types of tender breads, such as rolls,
cooking, it is a useful sugar because it is only similar to fino sherry but not fortified . popular in the American South.
mildly sweet and does not become sticky in a vital gluten-(gluten flour) prepared by white poppy seeds-hard, off-white seeds
humid environment. Also used as a source of using cold water to wash away the starch in a used in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian
dissolved solids for various preparations dough prepared from gluten-containing cuisine to add thickness, texture, and flavor
including gels, edible films, sugar work, dough. The extracted gluten actually con- to sauces. Flavorful oil similar to olive oil can
savory ice creams, and more. tains two proteins, glutenin and gliadin, that be pressed from them.
Trisol-soluble modified wheat product together give a dough its strength and white soy sauce-golden, thin variety of soy
from the e!Bulli Texturas line, especially elasticity. As a commercial product, vital sauce.
effective at producing crunchy batter-coated, gluten can be used to add strength, or "bite," wild watercress-an edible, slightly bitter
deep-fried foods that are less oily. to noodles or improve the texture of bread. green that has been collected from a safe
turbot -large North Atlantic flatfish prized Wagyu beef-(Wagyu) several cattle breeds water source.
for the quality of its flesh. ofJapanese origin that yield highly marbled wild wood violets-young leaves and
Tween-see polysorbate. meat. Wagyu beef has become synonymous blossoms of the viola plant with a mild
Ultra-Crisp-modified food starch made by with prized Japanese Kobe beef. cucumber taste. Used as a salad green.
National Starch. Effective for making very walnut leaves-leaves of the walnut tree winepress-a perforated vat that uses a
crispy, batter-coated fried foods. with a bitter, astringent taste. Often pickled. compression plate and a screw or jack to
ultrahigh-pressure homogenizer-very wet-bulb temperature-temperat ure of a apply enough force to crush grapes and expel
powerful tool used to make extremely fine wet object in equilibrium with the sur- their juice. Classically used to extract juices
particles or droplets in suspensions or rounding air. If the relative humidity of the from cooked duck and lobster carcasses.
emulsions. air is less than 100%, then the wet-bulb Wondra-wheat flour treated to prevent
Ultra-Sperse-a pregelatinized modified temperature will be lower than the dry-bulb clumping and used for thickening. Made by
starch made by National Starch. Can be temperature because of evaporative cool- General Mills.
stirred into a cold liquid to thicken it quickly. ing. Food exposed to air typically cooks at xanthan gum-thickener with thixotropic
Ultra-Tex-a pregelatinized modified the wet-bulb temperature for much of its behavior that will also gel when used in
starch made by National Starch. Used as a cooking time. Wet-bulb temperature is combination with locust bean gum. Works
thickener. Requires moderate shearing to measured using a thermometer that is kept over a wide temperature and pH range,
disperse it in a cold liquid. wet with a wick. making it a versatile hydrocolloid.
umami-the savory taste of the amino acid whey protein concentrate-concentra ted XO sauce-Chinese condiment made with
glutamic acid, or its salt monosodium whey protein that contains lactose sugar. chilies, garlic, and dried seafood.
glutamate. Naturally occurring at high Can be used as an emulsifier, foaming agent, young ginger-freshly picked ginger
concentrations in a wide variety of foods, thickener, and gelling compound. rhizomes, with thin skin and bright flavor.
including milk, cheese, tomatoes, mush- whey protein isolate-concentrated whey young lotus root-immature root from the
rooms, and especially seaweed. protein that has the lactose sugar removed. lotus plant. More tender than mature lotus.
unhomogenized milk-milk that has not Can be used as an emulsifier, foaming agent, yuba-tofu or soy milk skin collected from
been homogenized; the cream in unhomog- thickener, and gelling compound. boiled soy milk. Often dried, then reconsti-
enized milk separates and floats to the top. whey-the liquid that remains when milk tuted and used as an edible wrapper or
usukuchi shoyu-light soy sauce with a pale has coagulated and the curds are removed. textural element.
golden color and light flavor. Among other compounds, it contains the yuzu-aromatic, tart,Japanese citrus fruit.
veil-a very thin drape of gel or edible protein whey and the majority of the lactose Often used to make the dipping sauce ponzu.
netting often used for unique presentations. sugar that was in milk. Salted yuzu juice is called yuzu kosho.
XV II
GLOSS ARY OF TECH NICAL TERM S
ID reduction or process-a process that from ammonia by replacing hydrogen with bang-bang controller-a controller that
kills or inactivates a population of pathogens one or more organic groups. automatically switches between two states,
to one-tenth of its original number; or a 90% amino acid-one of the chemical building such as off and on.
reduction. blocks from which proteins are composed. Biot number-a figure representing the
6.5D, 12D-reducing pathogens by a factor Virtually all proteins are made from a ratio of the heat transfer rate occurring on
of 106.5 (or 3.2 million, for 6.SD) or a factor repertoire of just 22 kinds of amino acids. the outside of an object to the rate occurring
of 1012 (or one trillion, for 12D), which is anaerobic bacterium-a bacterium that inside that object.
the degree of pasteurization recommended does not require oxygen to survive. bis-2-methyl-3-f uryl-disulphide-a
for canned foods with a low acid content. anaerobic-living or occurring without potent aroma produced by the Maillard
absolute-a concentration of oil extracted oxygen. reaction and associated with the flavor of
from a flower made by removing the resin anaphylaxis-an acute, often life- roast beef.
from an oleoresin. threatening allergic reaction to a particular bitters-a liquor flavored with essential oil
accuracy-how close an instrument's agent or substance. extracted from bitter plant material, such as
reading is to the true value of what is being androstenone-a pheromone produced by bitter herbs.
measured. Note that accuracy is different many mammals that is also a key aroma bivalve-a mollusk with a two-part shell.
from precision. compound in truffles. blackbody radiation-therma l waves of
acidulant-a chemical that increases the anisakid-a parasitic roundworm in the radiation emitted at a fixed temperature from
acidity offoods. Anisakidae family, often found in the flesh an ideal body that absorbs all the radiation it
acrylamide-a by-product of the Maillard of inshore salt water fish. is subjected to and that reflects none of it.
reaction; suspected of being a carcinogen. antifoaming agent-a substance that blast freezer-a device used to quickly
actin-muscle protein used for contraction. decreases the surface tension of an agitated freeze an object, such as a food, at extremely
activity coefficient-a measurement based liquid to stop foam from forming. low temperatures by circulating cold air
on the difference between the concentration antioxidant-any compound that inhibits around the object at high speeds with a fan.
of a substance and its activity. oxidation reactions such as the browning of blonding-in making an espresso shot, the
activity-what appears to be the concentra- cut apple slices. last stage in which the resulting liquid turns
tion of a substance (as opposed to its actual Archaea-a group of simple microorgan- light yellow, increases in frothiness, and
concentration), based on its behavior. isms that appear similar to bacteria but have begins to taste bitter.
adrenaline-a hormone produced by the a distinct genetic and biochemical makeup. Bloom-a measurement of the strength of a
adrenal gland in vertebrates; when secreted aspirator or aspiration vacuum pump-a gelatin gel with a device created by Oscar
in response to stress, adrenaline increases vacuum pump that uses flowing water- Bloom.
the heart rate, blood pressure, respiratory either from a faucet or in a pumped, recircu- boundary layer-a region of stagnant air or
rate, and release of stored glycogen, which lating system-to generate suction. water around the surface of an object. The
provides fuel for sudden bursts of physical astaxanthin-a violet carotenoid pigment boundary layer often slows the rate of heat
activity or increased alertness. Also known that is found in particular bird feathers and transfer or drying. Forced convection
as epinephrine. crustacean shells. shrinks the thickness of the boundary layer.
adsorb-to adhere to the surface of a bacteria (singular bacterium)-a large bovine spongiform encephalopathy
substance without penetrating it. group of single-celled microorganisms that (BSE)-a degenerative brain disease of
aerobic-organism s or processes that lack a nucleus or chlorophyll. cattle in which the brain tissue becomes
require oxygen to live or occur. bacterial spore-a structure created by porous, leading to dementia, loss of muscle
allicin-a sulfurous compound produced bacteria that is capable of weathering an control, and death. It is caused by prions.
when garlic is crushed or cut. This com- unfavorable environment. braise-slow-cook ing food (usually meat)
pound is part of garlic's characteristic flavor bacterial toxin-a substance produced by in liquid or humid air in a closed vessel.
and has potent antimicrobial properties. bacteria that is poisonous. Brettanomyces (brett)-a yeast genus; brett
amebiasis-infect ion with the single-celled ball mill-a device used to break up hard, species are used to create flavors in alcoholic
protozoans of the genus Amoeba. dry foods by crushing it between constantly beverages; if not properly contained, they can
amine-an organic compound derived rotating spheres. cause such beverages to spoil.
X V III VO LU ME 5 PL ATED DI SH RECIPES

brewing control chart-a graph used to solid foods can also be carbonated. cholesterol-a molecule from which bile
quantify how dosing and brewing time affect carbonyl-a broad class of organic chemical acids and steroid hormones are formed. A key
the taste of brewed coffee. compounds, many of which are important constituent of cell membranes that affects
brining-soaking meat or other food in a salt aroma compounds in food and play a key role their permeability, cholesterol is found in the
solution; helps retain water during cooking in the chemistry of smoking food. cells and body fluid of all animals.
British thermal unit {BTU)-an energy carotenoid pigment-yellow, orange, red, or chronic wasting disease {CWD) -a degen-
unit representing the amount of heat needed purple pigments in plants and animals. They erative brain disease of deer, elk, and moose
to raise the temperature of 0.45 kg I lib of are prone to oxidation and often degrade into in which the brain tissue becomes porous,
water without dissolved air by 0.6 c I 1 F. flavorful compounds during cooking. leading to dementia, loss of muscle control,
bromelain-an enzyme found in pineapple carrageenan-a hydrocolloid derived from and death. Thought to be caused by prions.
juice that breaks down protein and is used as seaweed, such as Irish moss, that is used to circulating bath-a temperature-controlled
a meat tenderizer. thicken a gel or a liquid. container of water that is pumped so that it
bromophenol-volatile compounds {pro- catalysis-a change in a chemical reaction circulates and thus distributes heat evenly. It
duced by, among other things, seaweed) that rate caused by a substance {called a catalyst) is used to cook sous vide and is also known as
contribute to the smell of the seaside. These that isn't altered by the reaction. a stirred bath.
compounds accumulate in some seafood and cathepsin-a protein-digesting enzyme citrus press-a mechanism for extracting
add to their flavor. present in most animal tissue. Cathepsin juice from oranges and similar fruits.
Brownian motion-the random movement promotes the self-digestion of cells in Typically this works by forcing a half-or-
of microscopic particles suspended in a response to certain diseases and after the ange against a mandrel {which sometimes
liquid or a gas. irreversible loss of vital functions. spins).
Buchner funnel-a funnel used to hold cavitation-the formation of void- or climacteric-a stage in fruit ripening
filter paper for vacuum filtration. vapor-filled bubbles in a liquid via a fast- stimulated by ethylene gas, which can occur
bulk phenomenon-a phenomenon, such as moving solid object, such as a propeller, or after the fruit is picked.
absorption, that affects all parts of a body. via sound waves. The collapse of the bubbles coagulant-an agent that causes a liquid to
burr grinder-a device used to break up creates strong shock waves. thicken into a gel or a solid. Often this occurs
hard, dry foods that, uses the rotation of two centrifugal-style juicer-a mechanism that by making molecules in the liquid {such as
burrs with evenly spaced notches to crush extracts juice from food by cutting it up in a proteins, or hydrocolloids) cross-link or bond.
the food. This produces a more uniform size chamber whose rapid spinning causes the coalescence-the process by which distinct
distribution than other grinders. juice to separate from the solid pulp. objects {such as droplets in an emulsion)
caffe crema-the last stage of an espresso centrifuge-a mechanism that rapidly spins merge to form one larger object.
shot "pulled" for a longer than typical time to liquid, causing substances with different levels cold shortening-a phenomenon in which
produce a larger volume ofliquid. of density within it or solid material dispersed the muscle of a carcass that was cooled too
calorie-in thermodynamics, an unit of and suspended within it to separate. rapidly irreversibly contracts, causing it to
energy equivalent to the heat needed to raise chamber sealer-a device used for vacuum- shorten dramatically after rigor sets in.
the temperature of 1 g I 0.04 oz of water by packing food in plastic bags. It includes a Makes the meat unpleasantly tough to eat.
1 c I 1.8 p at 1 bar I 14.7 psi of pressure. In pump {for evacuating air from the chamber) collagen-a fibrous protein that is present in
nutrition, the term is often used to mean a as well as one or more sealing bars that melt all animals and is the major component of
kilocalorie {1,000 calories). the open end of the bags closed once nearly connective tissue.
calpain-a class of enzymes that are impor- all of the air has been removed. collapse temperature-see critical
tant in making meat tender because they Champion-style juicer-a fruit and vegeta- temperature.
catalyze the breakdown of protein. They ble juicer that grinds food with spinning colloid mill-a machine that breaks down
require calcium to function. teeth and wrings juice from it. the pieces of an emulsion or paste into
capsid-the protein shell that surrounds a chaptalization-the process of adding sugar smaller particles.
virus. to grape juice to ensure the proper alcohol colloid-two dissimilar phases dispersed
carbon filtration-a method of filtering a content. evenly through one another. One phase is
liquid or gas by passing it through porous chlorophyll-a green pigment found in the dispersed phase, and the other is the
carbon. Sometimes called charcoal filtering. plants that is necessary to photosynthesis. continuous phase. A phase may be a solid, a
carbonation-the process of dissolving chlorophyllase-an enzyme that causes liquid, or a gas. An emulsion is an example
carbon dioxide gas into a substance. It is chlorophyll to split or hydrolyze, which of a liquid dispersed in a liquid, and an
common in beverages and soft drinks, but causes discoloration in many plant foods. aerosol is a liquid dispersed in a gas. When
XI X
particles are dispersed in a liquid, the result emulsification from a liquid that does not crystals form . Also see freeze concentration.
is sometimes called a colloidal suspension. naturally form cream. cryogen-a substance used in cryogenic
colony-forming unit (CFU)-a unit of a continuous phase-the phase in an freezing to bring an object's temperature
microorganism capable of reproducing the emulsion or colloid in which a liquid sus- down to a very low point, generally below
cells of that organism and thus forming a pends solid material or scatters droplets of -150 oc / -238 F. The most common
colony of such cells. another liquid. cryogen in cooking is liquid nitrogen.
combi oven-an oven capable of cooking convection current-a moving stream of cryopoaching-a cooking technique in
by means of heated air distributed with a fan fluid created by convection. which food is immersed briefly in a cryogen,
{as convection ovens do), steam injected convection oven mode-a combi oven usually liquid nitrogen.
into the cooking chamber, or both. mode in which the oven is set to the proper- cryosearing-a cooking technique in
combination mode (or combi mode)-an ties of a convection oven. which liquid nitrogen or dry ice is used to
available mode in a combi oven in which convection oven-an oven that distributes protect the cooking of the interior of a food
both the dry-bulb temperature and the heated air with a fan. from overcooking while the exterior is
humidity can be independently controlled convection steaming-cooking food in a seared with high heat.
to achieve certain culinary effects. water-vapor oven or combi oven or dedicat- cryospherification-a method of spherifica-
combust-to produce heat and often light ed steamer using steam inserted into the tion in which liquid frozen in a mold is placed
via very rapid oxidation. cooking chamber and distributed with a fan. in a bath ofhydrocolloids, where its outer
comminution-physica lly reducing an convection-heat transfer that occurs layers gel as they thaw. When frozen in a
object to smaller pieces. within a fluid because of the movement of mold, it is also called molded spherification.
conching-the process of refining the particles within the fluid. curd-the thickened milk gel that has been
texture of chocolate by wet-milling it in a corked-the attribute, in wine, of having treated with a coagulant to make cheese.
conche machine {a machine much like a contracted unwanted taste or odor via curing-soaking meat in a chemical
rotating mortar and pestle). contact with a contaminated cork. Also solution {or rubbing dry chemicals on it) to
concrete-see oleoresin. known as cork taint. induce changes in texture, flavor, and color.
condensate-the product of the transition covalent bond-a chemical bond formed CVap-a brand of water-vapor oven that
of a material from a gas state to a liquid one. by two electrons, one contributed by each of allows the wet-bulb temperature and the
conduction-heat transfer that occurs the two bound atoms. dry-bulb temperature to be set indepen-
through energy exchange between particles. creaming-one of the failure modes of an dently to some extent.
confidence interval-a measure of the emulsion, where the lighter oil phase rises to cyanobacterium-a member of a group of
reliability of an estimate in a statistical the top, as occurs with cream in unhomoge- water-based organisms ranging from one to
study, particularly a medical study involv- nized milk. many cellsj also called blue-green algae.
ing a sample of a larger population. Most crema-the layer of reddish-brown or cysteine-a sulfur-containing amino acidj
results are quoted with a 95% confidence golden foam on the top of espresso coffee. an important contributor to meat flavor.
interval, which gives the range in which the Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD)-a cytochrome-respirator y pigments in the
estimate would be expected to fall 95% of degenerative brain disease of humans in cells of plants and animals that carry
the time if the study were done repeatedly. which the brain tissue becomes porous, electrons during oxidation.
conformation-a three-dimensional leading to dementia, loss of muscle control, dark cutter-red meat, especially beef, that
molecular shape, such as the functional shape and death. It is caused by prions. fails to turn red on contact with air and
assumed by protein after it is synthesized. critical point-the point at which two displays a dry firm dark property.
confounding effect-a situation in which phases {such as gas and liquid) become one decoction-removing flavor from a sub-
either or both of two different variables may supercritical fluid. stance by boiling it.
explain a statistical characteristic. critical temperature-in freeze-drying, degrees offreedom-a term from physics
conservation of mass-a fundamental the maximum temperature that can be that counts the number of dimensions in
physics principle stating that mass cannot be allowed during certain stages of the process, which a body's constituents might move or
created or destroyed. also called the collapse temperature. In the in which changes might occur in a system.
constant-rate period-the first phase of context of a phase diagram it can refer to the dealcoholization-the process of removing
the drying process. In this phase, water is temperature of the critical point. unwanted alcohol content from an alcoholic
wicked to the drying surface at the same rate cryoconcentration-a wine production substance, such as wine, after fermentation
at which it evaporates from the surface. procedure of removing excess water from has occurred.
constructed cream-a cream derived via grape juice by cooling it the point that ice deionized water-water that has been
XX VOLUME 5 PLATED - DISH RECIPES

purified by a process in which its mineral dose standard-the standard quantity of a emulsifier-any compound that stabilizes a
ions are entirely removed. material added to a substance, such as the mixture of two otherwise immiscible liquids.
deliquescence-th e process by which a solid standard ratio of coffee beans to water in emulsion-a mixture of two normally
with a crystalline structure absorbs water particular kinds of coffee. immiscible liquids, such as oil and water.
vapor in the atmosphere then dissolves. dosing-the act of applying the proper endemic-the quality of a disease-causing
denaturing-the unfolding of a protein, proportion of a material to a substance. In agent that is always to be found in a particu-
which makes it nonfunctional. High and low espresso making, dosing is putting the lar region.
temperatures, changing pH, high salt levels, proper amount of coffee into the portafilter. endomysium-a layer of connective tissue
and the addition of solvents such as alcohol double-blind trial-an experiment in which that encases individual muscle fibers.
can all denature proteins. both subjects and researchers are unaware of energy-in physics, the capacity for doing
deoxymyoglobin -a form of myoglobin who is in the test group and who is in the work.
that lacks oxygen. control group. enfleurage-the process of using fat layers
derivative-a term from calculus for the draft-a pressure difference between the to absorb volatile compounds that are
rate of change in a mathematical function. inside and the outside of a closed space that responsible for a botanical compound's
desiccant-a substance, such as silica gel, creates air flow. scent, then extracting those oils from the fat,
that readily absorbs moisture. Desiccants are dry firm dark (DFD)-a property of meat, usually via distillation.
used to keep dry food dry. especially beef, in which an animal's muscles enthalpy-a heat quantity derived by
dew point-the temperature at which the are exhausted of energy reserves in the form of adding a system's internal energy to the
moisture present in air begins to condense glycogen, resulting in dark meat with a higher pressure exerted on the system multiplied by
into dew on surfaces. pH than normal and a dry, firm consistency. the product of its volume.
dietary fiber-material present in food that is dry-bulb temperature-a temperature envelope-a lipid- or lipoprotein-based
not broken down by human digestive systems. measurement of air. Unlike the wet-bulb membrane that envelops the capsid of certain
dietary system-a set of rules that deter- temperature, humidity in the atmosphere is viruses.
mines which foods and liquids that a person not a factor in the measurement. enzyme-a protein molecule that catalyzes
following the system consumes. dry-curing-see curing. chemical reactions of other substances but
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC)- dry-rubbing-rub bing sugar or seasonings isn't destroyed or altered in the process.
an instrument that measures the change in into meat to improve flavor and retain water. epimysium-the sheath of connective tissue
temperature of a substance as it is heated. It dynamic viscosity-a measurement of the that surrounds a muscle.
is used to determine chemical and phase viscosity of a fluid based on the force needed equilibrium cooking-cooking with a heat
changes in the substance. to move a plane across a certain amount of source (such as a water bath for sous vide)
dipole-a material or object having two space with a specific velocity relative to a which is at or very close to the final desired
electric charges that are equal and opposite. parallel plane within that fluid . food temperature. The food is allowed to
In molecules, this is caused by having an ecological study-in epidemiology, a study equilibrate with that temperature.
uneven distribution of electrons. of the health effects on a population done equilibrium relative humidity-a state in
dispersed phase-the phase in a dispersed only via aggregate statistics of the popula- which a material's moisture content is the
system in which one system's particles or tion. This kind of study generally provides same as that existing in the air, meaning that
droplets are distributed into another system. less reliable information than cohort or the material will not gain or lose moisture. It
dispersed system-a system consisting of a case-control studies, which collect informa- is equal to the food water activity.
dispersed phase and a continuous phase, in tion about individual subjects. equilibrium vapor pressure-the vapor
which a liquid suspends solid material or efficiency-the amount of useful work a pressure that is exerted in a system in which
scatters droplets of another liquid. device produces during a time period ex- at least two water phases (such as liquid and
disperse-to distribute finely divided pressed as a fraction of the amount of energy vapor) are in equilibrium.
particles into another substance. required to operate it during that period. equilibrium-a state in which no change
distillation-the separation by evaporation elastin-a protein that is found in some occurs because of the balance between
of two liquids with different boiling points. It connective tissue. It is extremely tough and opposing forces or rates of reaction.
is often used for purification. elastic and unaffected by cooking. essential oil-concentrated flavor and
DNA (deoxyribonuclei c acid )-a double emetic-a substance that causes vomiting. compounds extracted from plants.
helix of two nucleic acid strands that carries emulsification-t he act of creating a evaporation-the heat-induced change from
the genetic information of living organisms mixture of two normally immiscible liquids, liquid to vapor.
and certain viruses. often with the aid of an emulsifier. evaporative cooling-a drop in the
XX I
temperature of air caused by the presence of randomly) from areas with a high concen- freezing out some of the water as ice.
evaporation-usually of water. tration of them to areas with a low concen- freeze-drying-a method of drying a
evapotranspiration-the exodus of water tration of them at a rate proportional to the frozen material, such as a food, by sublimat-
from the planet's surface caused by the concentration difference. ing ice into water vapor. Freeze-drying is
evaporation of bodies of water and the film condensate-a thin layer of water. It is done by freezing the material, then subject-
process by which plants expunge water as created by the condensation of steam and ing it to a high vacuum, which causes the ice
vapor from their surfaces. tends to slow further heat transfer. to vaporize without melting first.
exponential growth-growth that increas- fish eye-lumps formed from incomplete freezer burn-the phenomenon in which
es at a constant rate, such as when cells dispersion of a starch or hydrocolloid gum spots of discoloration appear on frozen food
divide at a rate in which the cell population in water. when improper wrapping has allowed
doubles each time division occurs. Also flagellum-a long, thin appendage used for moisture to escape by sublimation.
known as geometric growth. locomotion by single-celled organisms. freezing point depression-the lowering
exsanguination-the process in which an flash-boiling-a cooking technique in of the temperature at which a solution will
animal carcass is drained of blood. which a small amount of water boils for a freeze by dissolving a substance such as salt,
extender-a substance used to add protein very short time before evaporating entirely. sugar, or alcohol in it.
to meat, such as to promote the emulsifica- flash-freezing-a process in which an frequency-how often a periodic event
tion of fat or the binding of ground meat. object, such as a food, is frozen quickly by repeats within a given interval of time.
extracellular fluid-fluid that exists subjecting it to extremely cold temperatures. friction-the force resisting relative motion
outside of a cell. flocculation-the process by which a between two bodies in contact.
extraction percentage-the percentage of substance is made to form into clusters. frozen set foam-foam made solid by
material in a substance that can be removed. fluid gel-a gel in which the gel structure has freezing to prevent it from dissipating.
extraction-the removal of material from a been broken, enabling it to flow like a liquid. fusel alcohol- alcohols with more than
substance that contains it, such as by means fluidized bed freezing-a technique in two carbon atoms. These are formed during
of a solvent. which an object, such as a food, is frozen by fermentation, and concentrated by distilla-
facultative anaerobe-a microorganism blowing extremely cold air up through tion where they occur in the tails of the
that can function with or without oxygen. porous material on which the object rests. distillation process.
falling-rate period-the final phase of the foam stabilizer-a substance used to gas saturation-the point at which no more
drying process. During this phase, water prevent foam from dissipating. gas can be dissolved into a solution.
inside the substance is so tightly bound to foaming agent-a substance used to create gastroenteritis-inflammation of the
molecules in the food that the rate of foam. stomach and intestinal membranes.
evaporation slows dramatically. foam-the bubbles that compose a frothy gelatinization (of meat and seafood)-the
fascicle-larger bundles of muscle fibers mass. They are formed on a liquid's surface process of tenderizing otherwise tough
that define the grain of a cut of meat. by agitating it or by subjecting it to a chemi- connective tissue in meats and seafood by
fatty acid-the chemical term for the acidic cal process. cooking them at an adequately high temper-
lipid compounds that cooks commonly refer food poisoning-an illness caused by ature and with enough moisture. The
to as fat. toxins produced by bacteria in food. process involves the shrinking then dissolu-
fecal load-the number of infectious food press-a mechanism to extract juice tion of collagen via hydrolysis.
organisms present in 1 g I 0.04 oz of from food by mechanically pressing it gelatinization (ofstarch)-the result of
infected feces. between two plates or between a pestle and heating starch granules in the presence of
fecal-oral route-the process by which a a cone with holes in it. water, thereby causing them to lose their
pathogen travels from the feces of an foodborne pathogen-a disease-causing semicrystalline structure as they swell with
infected organism to a new host via food agent that infects the body via food. water. The temperature range over which
contamination. forced convection-heat transfer that this occurs is characteristic of a starch's
femtogram-one quadrillionth of a gram. occurs when a fan or pump is used to move botanical origin.
fermentation-the modification of a food a hot fluid (such as air or water) across a genome-the entire collection of a species'
by the deliberate growth of microorganisms food. genetic hereditary information.
in it, such as yeast with wine or bread or foreshots-the condensate material genus-species that are closely related, and
Lactobacillis with yogurt. produced in the first stages of a distillation. thus considered a group.
Fick's first law of diffusivity-a law stating freeze concentration-a method of geometric growth-see exponential
that molecules of matter will diffuse (move removing excess water from a liquid by growth.
XX II VOLUME 5 PLATED-OISH RECIPES

geosmin-a chemical produced by a of how much heat is transferred between thicken or gel water-based food liquids.
bacteria of the order Actinomycetales that is media or systems. hydrogen bond-a bond involving the
responsible for the "earthy" smell of soil. It heat-a transfer of energy due to a differ- attraction of one hydrogen atom to two
is found in beets, baby corn, many bottom- ence in temperature. atoms existing in one or more molecules. It is
dwelling fresh water fish, and other foods. hemoglobin-an iron-containing protein a very important phenomenon for water.
glass transition temperature-the tem- pigment in the red blood cells of vertebrates. hydrolysis-the decomposition or alteration
perature at which a liquid becomes a solid heterocyclic amine (HCA)-an organic of a chemical substance by water.
without an ordered crystalline structure. compound consisting of more than one kind hydrophilic-able to attract or absorb water.
Spun sugar (cotton candy), for example, is of atom. It is created by replacing at least one hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)-in
a glass, whereas crystalline sugar is not. hydrogen atom in ammonia with an alkyl a surfactant emulsifier, it is a numeric
glucono delta-lactone (GDL)-a substance group. These compounds are believed by measure of the mass of the hydrophobic to
that transforms into gluconic acid (an acid some to exacerbate cancer. hydrophilic parts of the molecule, normal-
created by the oxidation of glucose) in water. high-density lipoprotein (HDL) choles- ized to lie in the range of 1 to 20. The HLB
gluten-a combination of the protein terol-a combination of a protein and a lipid gives a rough indication of how the surfac-
glutenin and the protein gliadin found in found in blood. It is sometimes called "good tant functions in an emulsion.
cereals, notably wheat, that gives dough its cholesterol", because research indicates it hydrophobic-repelled by water or not
characteristic cohesiveness. may be beneficial for cardiovascular health. possessing an affinity for it.
glycine-a mildly sweet-tasting amino acid. high-pressure homogenizer-a device hygroscopic-able to attract and retain
glycogen-a polysaccharide composed of a used to create an extremely fine emulsion by water.
large number of glucose molecules. It is the applying very high amounts of pressure. hyperosmia-an ability to smell that is
main form in which animals store carbohy- high-shear mixing-a process by which an greater than normal.
drates in tissue and is thus sometimes called emulsion is created using a large amount of hyposmia-impairment of the ability to
the "starch equivalent" for animal cells. shear force. smell.
grooming-a procedure in espresso coffee horn-a cylindrical ultrasonic homogenizer hypothesis-an assumption made on a
preparation in which excess grounds placed component, usually made of solid titanium, tentative basis to test its validity.
in the portafilter are removed and the surface that transmits ultrasonic sound waves to a ice-restructuring compound-a chemical
of the remaining grounds is leveled. liquid to cause cavitation and thus homoge- compound that affects the structure and
gum-a polysaccharide derived from plants nization to occur. processes of ice, such as an antifreeze protein.
that swells when wet and can thicken or gel horsepower-a unit of power equal to IDSO-the number of infectious organisms
depending on various factors. 746 W (2,544 BTU/ h). needed to infect SO% of study subjects. Also
hard water-water containing particular hot-boning-the process of butchering and see infectious dose.
dissolved ions, such as magnesium or sometimes processing the meat of a slaugh- ike jime-a Japanese fish-slaughtering
calcium salts. tered animal before its body has progressed technique in which the spinal cord is severed
hazard ratio-a statistical estimate of to rigor. Hot-boned meat has a higher to improve the quality of the flesh.
relative risk. moisture-holding capacity and forms more immediate service-a method of sous vide
heads-the second condensate material stable meat emulsions, which renders it food preparation in which food is served
produced in a distillation process. useful for sausage making. immediately after cooking rather than being
heat flux-the amount of heat that flows humectant-a substance that causes a refrigerated or frozen for later use.
across a particular area in a particular material to retain moisture. immersion circulator-a device that, when
amount of time. humidity-controlled mode-see combina- attached to a vessel that contains water, heats
heat labile-subject to alteration by heat. tion mode. and circulates the water to create a circulat-
heat of fusion-the amount of energy that is hydrated-having incorporated water. ingbath.
needed for one mole of a solid to melt into a hydration-the process of incorporating immiscible-incapable of being blended
liquid. Also known as the latent heat of fusion. water or its elements, such as the combina- into a homogeneous solution.
heat of sublimation-the amount of energy tion of molecular water with the components inactivation-the cessation of the capacity
that is needed for one mole of a solid to turn of a molecule. to engage in a particular biological activity,
into a vapor. hydrocolloid-a substance that forms a such as a virus's ability to infect a cell.
heat of vaporization-see latent heat of colloidal suspension when dispersed and index of refraction-the ratio of the veloc-
vaporization. hydrated in water; hydrocolloids are usually ity oflight in one medium to its velocity in
heat transfer coefficient-a measurement starches or plant gums and are used to another as it passes between the two.
XX III
individual quick freezing-a blast freezing and nonmetal ions, held together by electri- listeriosis-an disease caused by the
or fluidized-bed freezing process in which cal attraction. Table salt, composed of ions bacterium Listeria monocytogenes.
each individual piece of a food is frozen as a of the metal sodium and the nonmetal low-density lipoprotein (LDL)
separate unit. chlorine, is one example. cholesterol-a protein-lipid combination
infectious dose-the average number of irreversible change-an alteration that found in the blood. It is sometimes called
infectious organisms that must be present in cannot be undone. "bad cholesterol" because some studies
a host to establish a self-sustaining infection. joule-a metric energy unit in the MKS implicate it as a risk factor for cardiovascular
infusion-removal of a material from a (meter-kilogram-second) system. It is the disease.
substance by steeping it in a solvent, such as work produced by one newton (a unit based low-temperature steam mode-a mode in
brewing tea by extracting flavor from the tea on the force needed to accelerate 1 kg by a water-vapor oven or a combi oven in which
with hot water. 1 m/s 2 ) on a point that is displaced by 1 min steam heated below water's boiling point is
insoluble-the inability of a substance to the force's direction. used to cook food.
dissolve in another substance. jus-liquid that seeps out of meat during lungo-an espresso coffee that is made by
insulator-a substance that is a poor cooking. Also known as juice. continuing to extract coffee for a longer
medium for conduction. ketosis-a condition in which the amount period of time. It is usually more bitter than
integral-in math, the cumulative sum of a of ketones (organic compounds in which two espresso brewed for a normal time period.
function over a given interval or region. carbon atoms are bound to a carbonyl group) lyophilization-see freeze-drying.
intensity-the amount of a quality or increases in the body because of a disruption magnetic stirrer bar-a bar that is made to
condition; a measure of the effect of an in the processing of carbohydrates. spin magnetically within a container of
agent expressed as the magnitude of force or kilowatt-a unit of power that is the liquid to stir it.
energy per unit. equivalent of 1,000 watts. Maillard reaction-a chemical reaction
intermediate fiber-a type of fast-twitch kuru-a degenerative brain disease of between sugar and amino acid that creates a
muscle fiber that has greater stamina than humans (known only in New Guinea) in brown color and particular flavor com-
standard fast-twitch fibers because it can which the brain tissue becomes porous, pounds in certain foods, including meat and
utilize oxygen for sustained aerobic activity. leading to dementia, loss of muscle control, bread. It is one of the primary causes of
intermediate-density lipoprotein (IDL) and death. It is caused by prions and was browning in foods.
cholesterol-a combination of a protein spread early in the 20th century by ritualis- melanoidin pigment-a pigment created
and a lipid found in blood that has a density tic cannibalism. by protein or amino acid.
between that ofHDL and LDL. latent heat of vaporization-the amount meta-analysis-a statistical analysis of
internal energy-the total energy of a of energy that is needed to evaporate liquid several studies with similar hypotheses done
system that exists in a form other than the into a gas. to determine the significance of their results
potential and kinetic energy of the system as LDSO-the number of infectious organisms taken together as a whole.
a whole. Internal energy includes the kinetic needed to kill SO% of study subjects. Also metastable-a substance that is only
energy of constituent molecules in motion see lethal dose. slightly stable and thus easily changes
within the system, potential energy stored Leidenfrost effect-an effect that occurs during processes such as oxidation.
in chemical bonds, energy from chemical when liquid is in contact with a surface hot metmyoglobin-a reddish-brown pigment
interactions, and other forms of energy enough that a cushion of vapor holds the formed from the oxidation of myoglobin. It
inside the system. liquid off the surface. causes meat to appear old or not fresh.
intracellular fluid-the fluid within a cell. lethal dose (LD)-the number of infec- microaerophilic-requi ring only a little
invasive infection-an infection in which tious organisms needed to kill an individual. oxygen to function, as is the case for certain
pathogens invade human tissue. lignin-a substance in wood that reinforces microorganisms.
ion-an atom, molecule, electron, or proton cell walls for durability. It is indigestible by microfoam-in espresso coffee, a desirable
that has a positive or negative electric charge most animals. foam that is made of bubbles too small to be
from losing or gaining one or more electrons. lipid-the technical term for the fats and perceived.
ion-exchange filter-a resin that can oils that form one of the basic building microorganism-an organism whose size
exchange ions, such as the replacement of blocks ofliving cells. is microscopic or smaller.
calcium ions with sodium ions, to create lipophilic-attracting or having an affinity Microoxygenation (MOX)-a wine-mak-
deionized water. for lipids (fats and oils). ing process in which small, precise amounts
ionic compound-a substance composed lipoprotein-a molecule in which a protein of oxygen are injected into fermenting wine
of oppositely charged ions, often metal ions and a lipid are combined. to control its rate of oxidation.
XX I V VOLUME 5 PLATEDDI SH RECIPES

microporous filtration-a method of water nematode-an unsegmented, often parasitic partly solid and that does not possess a
purification in which unwanted substances worm of the class Nematoda. definite melting point) mixed with essential
are removed by moving the water through neural arch-an arch of cartilage or bone on oil that is extracted from a plant via a nonpo-
extremely small openings. the back side of a vertebra that, with other lar solvent. Also known as a concrete.
microwave-an electromagnetic wave with neural arches, forms the area that houses the oocyst-an encased cell from which micro-
a wavelength ranging from about 0.3-30 em spinal cord. organisms develop.
/ 0.1-11.8 in and a frequency of 1-100 GHz. nonclimacteric-fruit which do not ripen osmosis-the passage of a solvent from a
middle run-the third condensate material after being picked and are not affected by solution that has a lower concentration of a
produced in a distillation process. It occurs ethylene gas. dissolved substance to one with a higher
in between the heads and the tails. noninvasive infectious bacteria-bacteria concentration of that substance. This passage
Mie scattering-the process of scattering that infect the surface area of the body but do occurs through a semipermeable membrane
light by particles that do not conduct a direct not penetrate human tissue. (one that can be penetrated by some mole-
electric current. nonionic compound-a compound made of cules but not others).
mirepoix-a combination of onions, molecules that are not bonded by ionic forces osmotic pressure-the pressure applied by
carrots, and celery (although other ingredi- and are instead joined by a different sort of a solution on a membrane through which the
ents can be included) that flavors many chemical bond, such as a covalent bond. solution can pass. This pressure separates the
dishes in French cooking, notably stocks. nonpolar solvent-a solvent whose mole- solution from the solvent, thereby causing
miscible-the ability of two or more sub- cules are not dipoles. Oils are examples of osmosis to occur. Alternately, the pressure
stances to blend into a homogenous solution. common nonpolar solvents. needed to preve11t osmosis.
molded spherification-see cryo- normale-the standard concentration of Ostwald ripening-one of the failure modes
spherification. coffee beans and amount of fluid used to of an emulsion, in which droplets of the
monounsaturated fat-a fat in which each make an espresso coffee in Italy. dispersed phase grow by absorbing material
fatty acid molecule has only one double or norovirus-an RNA-based infectious virus dissolved in the continuous phase. This
triple bond. that causes gastroenteritis. preferentially causes large droplets to grow
motile-able to move. NSEW technique-in espresso making, a larger, and small droplets to become smaller.
muscle fiber-a cell that is capable of method of grooming that involves sweeping oxidation-a chemical reaction in which
contracting and that forms muscle. ones finger from the center of the portafilter oxygen is chemically bound to a compound.
myocomma-a sheath of connective tissue in the four directions (North, South, East, oxymyoglobin-a pigment formed by
that separates muscle segments in fish. West) to level the coffee grounds. combining oxygen and myoglobin. It gives
myofibril-a small, contracting fiber within nucleated boiling-boiling due to heating of red meat its fresh, pink, or red appearance.
a muscle cell. the vessel that holds a liquid during which the p value-a measure of the statistical signifi-
myoglobin-a protein pigment in muscles resulting bubbles of steam rise to the surface. cance of a difference or change found in a
that contains iron; similar to hemoglobin. nucleation site-the place where water scientific study. The higher the p value, the
myoseptum-a septum that acts as being heated in a vessel forms vapor bubbles. more likely it is that the difference or change
a myocomma. nutritional epidemiology-the study of the is due to chance. Study results with lower p
myosin-a muscle protein that combines incidence and distribution of disease in a values are generally considered more reliable;
with actin to form actomyosin (a complex population and of the control of that disease 0.05 is usually considered the maximum
involved in muscle contraction). Myosin in relation to nutrition. threshold for statistical significance.
constitutes half of all the protein.in muscle. 0 /W-an emulsion in which oil is distri- Pacojet-a device that grinds frozen food
myotome-a group of muscles that are buted in water. Oil is the dispersed phase, while also blowing high-pressure air jets at it
connected to the same spinal nerve. water is the continuous phase. to reduce the food to extremely fine particles
nanofiltration-a filtration method in which observation bias-a systematic error in a in order to puree, blend, or emulsify it.
pressure causes a substance to pass through a study that arises from the study method. pacotize-to use a Pacojet to process food to
semipermeable membrane with pores sized Examples include faulty measurement or the puree, blend, or emulsify it.
for the passage of molecules ranging up to a misclassification of subjects. pale soft exudate (PSE)-a property of
diameter of a few nanometers or less. odds ratio-the ratio of the likelihood meat, especially pork, in which stress before
natural convection-heat transfer that (probability) of an event occurring to its slaughter results in a rapid decline in muscle
occurs within a substance such as a fluid, due likelihood of not occurring. pH. This decreased pH, combined with
only to fluid movement caused by density oleoresin-a material consisting of resin (a residual body heat, causes the meat's muscle
changes arising from heat. class of organic material that is wholly or protein to break down, which makes it mushy
XXV
and pale and causes it to exude moisture. freeze food by surrounding it with two between two quantities), the integral value,
papain-an enzyme found in papaya that chilled plates. and the derivative value.
breaks down protein; used to tenderize polar solvent-a solvent composed of prospective study-a study in which
meat. molecules that are dipoles. Water is a polar subjects who share a particular characteris-
partial pressure-t he pressure that a single solvent. tic are followed up over time.
gas in a mixture would exert if present alone. polyphenol oxidase (PPO)-a copper- protein folding-th e change in shape of a
pasteurizat ion-heating a substance to a containing enzyme that converts a phenol to protein from linear form into the complicat-
certain temperature for a certain amount of a quinone via oxidation. The enzyme largely ed three-dimen sional shape the protein
time to kill a prescribed fraction of any responsible for the discoloration of bruised, requires to function.
harmful organisms that may be in it. cut, or otherwise damaged plant foods. protein-an y of a large class of complex,
pathogen- a disease-causing agent, polysaccha ride-a carbohydrate that can amino acid-containing molecules. Proteins
typically a bacteria, protist, or virus. be changed by water into at least two are essential parts of all livings cells and of
pathogenic -causing disease. molecules of the simple sugar saccharide. the diets of all animals. Proteins are a
pellicle-a thin film or membrane. In polyunsatu rated fat-a fat in which each primary constituent of animal tissue, but are
smoking, it results when compounds in fatty acid molecule has more than one also found in plants.
smoke's gaseous phase react with protein on double or triple bond. proteolytic -causing protein molecules to
the surface of meat or seafood. portafilter -the portable filter basket of an break down into peptides.
peptide-a fragment of a protein made up espresso machine. protists-a group of simple, usually single-
of at least two amino acids bound by their precipitate -the act of a solid separating celled microorganisms.
respective carbon and nitrogen atoms. from a liquid, or the solid resulting from publication bias-the inclination of
percolation -the movement of fluid such a separation. researchers, editors, or publishers to publish
through a porous material. precision- the fineness with which an certain results and not publish others due,
perimysium -a layer of connective tissue instrument can discriminate in its measure- for example, to what they think is impor-
that encases bundles of muscle fibers that ments among slightly different values. Note tant, controversial, or noteworthy. This can
define the grain of meat. that this is not the same as accuracy. be important if published results are unrep-
phase change-a change from one state preinfusio n-in certain espresso machines, resentative of all results obtained.
(solid, liquid, or gas) to another without a a stage in espresso making during which pyrolysis-t he process by which heat
change in chemical composition . low-pressure water fills the portafilter before causes complex molecules to break apart
phase diagram-a graph charting the high-pressure water is applied to extract the into simpler compounds.
temperature and pressure that result when a grounds. Preinfusion is generally done to quorum sensing-a phenomenon exhibited
particular substance changes phase (such as promote consistency. by certain bacteria, in which small molecules
from a liquid to a gas or solid). pressure filter-a mechanism used for secreted by that bacteria can be detected by
phenol-a soluble, crystalline, acidic vacuum filtration in which high pressure is bacteria of the same type, allowing the
compound present in coal and wood. created on the side of the filter on which the bacteria to detect its population density and
Phenols formed from burning lignin in mixture ofliquid and solid material is placed. eliciting a particular reaction.
wood are responsible for many of the primal cut-one of the main cuts of an radiant heat-see radiative heating.
characteristi c aromas of smoked food. animal carcass that consists of muscles from radiation-e nergy that flows through a
pheophyti n-an olive-brown pigment that particular areas. medium or space via electromagn etic waves.
develops from the transformati on of primary emulsion-t he dispersal of one In cooking, the radiation is typically infra-
chlorophyll. substance into another during the first stage red light.
pin-and-dis c mill-a device used to break in the formation of an emulsion. radiative heating-he ating by means of
up hard, dry foods by cutting and pulveriz- prion-an infectious protein particle that energy that flows through a medium or
ing them. lacks nucleic acid and is responsible for space via electromagnetic waves.
plasmid-D NA that operates outside several animal and human diseases charac- randomized trial-a statistical study in
chromosome s and that is found in certain terized by degeneration of nerve tissue, which subjects are randomly assigned to
bacteria. including CJD and BSE. different groups.
plasmolysi s-the shrinking of the protein proportiona l-integral-d erivative (PID) recall bias-a systematic error in a statisti-
in the body of a cell away from the cell wall controller- a device that controls pro- cal study that arises because the recollec-
when water leaves a cell by osmosis. cesses by taking three parameters into tion of study subjects varies in accuracy
plate freezer-a device used to quickly account: the proportional value (the ratio and thoroughnes s.
XXV I VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

reflectivity-the ratio of the part of the statistical study because of a random discrep- microorganism's surface that provoke an
energy in a wave that falls on a surface to the ancy between the sample studied and the immune response in another organism).
part that reflects from the surface. larger population that the sample is meant to set foam-a foam that has been stabilized
relative humidity-the ratio of the mass of represent. into a gel or a solid so that it will not dissipate.
water vapor in air to the maximum mass of sarcomere-a muscle segment composed of settling period-the first stages of baking or
water vapor that the air could hold at that myofibrils that forms alternately light and drying in which the surface of food rapidly
temperature. dark bands. warms to the wet-bulb temperature deter-
relative risk-the ratio that divides the saturated fat-a fat in which each fatty acid mined by the surrounding conditions.
likelihood of an event occurring to those molecule has no double or triple bonds. shear force-a force that displaces one part
exposed to a factor by its likelihood in saturated solution-a solution in which a of a body from a part directly attached to it in
those not exposed to the same factor. particular substance has been dissolved to a parallel direction.
resting-a cooking technique in which food such an extent that no more of that substance shear-thinning fluid-a reduced-viscosity
that has been heated is allowed to sit for a can be dissolved in it. fluid that does not follow Newtonian laws.
period of time. Resting allows temperature saturated-a condition in which a substance silverskin-see epimysium.
and distribution of water (juices) to (such as a molecule or a liquid) has combined single- or double-disc mill-a device used
equilibrate. with another substance as much as possible. for breaking up hard, dry foods by cutting
retort bag-a plastic bag capable of with- saturation vapor pressure-the heat-related them with one or two discs.
standing the high temperature and pressure vapor pressure that causes a substance's vapor slug-and-column boiling-a boiling stage
that is used in sous vide canning. to exist in equilibrium with the solid or liquid in liquid that has reached a temperature
reverse osmosis-a process in which phase of that substance at a particular temper- above its boiling point. In this stage, rising
pressure is used to push water through a ature. Also see equilibrium vapor pressure. bubbles of steam appear because of their
membrane to purify or desalinate it. scientific name-a name used to classify an speed to emanate as solid columns from the
rheometer-an instrument used to measure organism. It consists of two Latin words bottom of the heated container.
the flow of a substance. representing the organism's species and small dense LDL (sdLDL) cholesterol-a
ribose-a pentose (a sugar with five carbon genus. protein-lipid combination found in blood. It
atoms that doesn't decompose into simple seam cutting-a butchery technique in is a subset ofLDL and is considered a risk
sugars in water) found in several nucleotides, which the muscles of primal cuts are separat- factor for cardiovascular disease.
including RNA. It is responsible for flavor in ed into individual muscles rather than simply sodium hexametaphosphate-a salt that is
some stocks and meat jus. being cut into steaks or roasts. often used as a sequestrant to prevent a
ristretto-an espresso shot that is brewed seasoning-material added to food to add a hydrocolloid from thickening or gelling.
for a shorter time period. Typically it is half desirable taste and/ or odor. sodium tripolyphosphate-a salt that is
the volume of a normale. secondary emulsion-the second stage of used in many food applications, including
RNA (ribonucleic acid)-nucleic acids emulsification during which the emulsion is brining and curing meat, preparing force-
involved in the formation of protein in cells. beaten to more finely disperse one substance meats, and restructuring cheese.
roller mill-a device used to break up hard, into another. solidus-the boundary on a phase diagram
dry foods by cutting and compressing them. sedimentation-the settling of material separating solid material from liquid or gas.
rotary evaporator-a distillation device that after it has been deposited in a liquid. solubility limit-the point at which no
uses rotation to make a thin film ofliquid to selection bias-a systemic error in a study more of a substance can be dissolved into
speed evaporation. Typically they also use that occurs because of the way in which another substance.
vacuum to distill at low temperatures. researchers select subjects. solubility-how much of a substance can
rotor-stator homogenizer-a device used septum-a membrane that divides two fully dissolve into another substance.
to create an emulsion or puree solids sus- hollow spaces within a portion of a body. soluble concentration-the ratio of the
pended in liquid by spinning a blade that sequestrant-a chemical used to remove mass of a solute to the mass of the solvent in
forces liquid through a small opening, thus (sequester) ions from a solution. Most often which it is dissolved.
breaking up particles in it. used to remove calcium and magnesium ions solubles yield-see extraction percentage.
rotor-the rotating component of a device, to allow hydration or to prevent premature solute-a substance that is dissolved into
such as the rotating blades used in a rotor- gelling of hydrocolloid gums. another substance.
stator homogenizer. serotype or serovar-a grouping of micro- solution-a mixture of at least two compo-
salinity-salt concentration. organisms (such as bacteria) based on a nents that are distributed in a uniform
sampling error-an error that occurs in a shared number of antigens (substances on a fashion to form a homogenous whole.
X XV II
solvent-a substance in which another water. Steam is often confused with the separates and weeps from a gel when the gel
substance can be dissolved. visible fog of condensed moisture droplets. is damaged or shrinks.
sous vide canning-a method of preserving steric hindrance or steric resistance- synergy-a process that occurs because of
food in which the food is sealed in an airtight chemical or physical effects caused by the the effect of at least two substances when
retort bag instead of a jar or can and steril- shape or orientation of molecules. combined and that results in an effect that is
ized at high temperature and pressure. sterilization-killing or inactivating all of greater than the sum of the effects of the
sous vide-a cooking technique in which the microorganisms in a substance. separate substances.
food is usually (but not necessarily) vacuum stirred bath-see circulating bath. tails-the final set of condensate materials
sealed, then cooked at accurately controlled Stockfleth's method-a method of groom- produced in a distillation process.
temperatures. ing coffee for an espresso shot that utilizes tamp-in preparing espresso coffee, the act
species-structurally similar organisms that the web between one's forefinger and thumb of firmly packing coffee grounds in a portafil-
form an interbreeding population. to smooth out excess grounds. ter so that the application of pressurized
specific heat capacity-the amount of heat stretching-in preparing steamed milk for water will result in an even extraction.
needed to raise a substance's temperature by espresso, the initial process in which a steam tastant-a substance that stimulates the
one degree per unit of mass. wand held under the milk's surface creates taste buds, creating a sense of taste.
spherification-a process in which fluid small bubbles. TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisol e)-a com-
beads or spheres are encased in a gel such as sublimation-the process in which a pound associated with corked wine, produc-
alginate, gellan, or pectin. material changes from a solid state to a gas ing a moldy taste and odor in the wine.
spinal ganglia-a mass of sensory nerve one without changing to a liquid state first. temperature-the value of"heat" or "cold-
tissue at each nerve in the spine's dorsal root, subspecies-a group of organisms within a ness" that determines the direction in which
which connects the brain to the spine on the species that is genetically distinct from other heat flows between contacting objects as
back-facing side. groups in that species. measured on a relative scale, such as Celsius
spoilage bacteria-bacteria associated with sulfur dioxide-a colorless gas used in or Fahrenheit.
food deterioration. wine-making to kill harmful organisms. terroir-a flavor characteristic associated
sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease supercooled-cooled below the point at with a particular area, such as with wine.
(sCJD)-a form of Creutzfeldt-Jacob disease which a substance should change phase (such tetradecahedron-a solid body consisting
in which the prions that cause the disease as a liquid freezing into a solid), without the of 14 flat sides.
seem to have formed spontaneously. occurrence of that change. tetrasodium pyrophosphate-a white
stage-an internship completed by prospec- supercritical fluid-a fluid that has reached powder used as a coagulant, an emulsifier, and
tive chefs. a temperature and pressure at which it acts a sequestrant.
stagier-a prospective chef who is complet- like both a liquid and a gas, which is called texturing-the process of steaming milk
ing a stage. the supercritical state. during coffee preparation.
statio-a drug that inhibits cholesterol superheated gas-a gas derived from a themo-irreversible gel-a gel that remains
synthesis and promotes receptors that bind liquid that has been heated to a temperature in a gel state regardless of temperature.
to LDL cholesterol, thus reducing levels of above the boiling point of that liquid. thermal conductivity-the ability of a
LDL cholesterol and increasing levels of supersaturated solution- a solution that substance to transfer heat through the
HDL cholesterol. Statins have been proven contains more of a solute than can be dis- exchange of energy between particles.
effective in reducing cardiovascular disease solved in its solvent. thermal death curve-a curve depicting the
in men. surface tension-a force naturally exerted range of temperatures required and the
statistical power-the probability that an on a liquid's surface that minimizes its amount of time those temperatures need to
observed variation in a statistical study is due surface area, thus causing it to form into be applied to kill bacteria.
to a specific procedure and not just chance. roughly spherical droplets. thermal inactivation curve-a curve
stator-the portion of a device that a rotor surfactant-a soluble compound that depicting the range of temperatures required
spins in or in relation to, such as the station- reduces the surface tension of its solvent and the amount of time those temperatures
ary segment of the rotor assembly in a liquid. A surfactant can also be used to need to be applied to stop a specific biologi-
rotor-stator homogenizer. reduce the surface tension between two cal activity, such as viral infection of a cell.
steam mode-a combi oven mode in which liquids or between a liquid and a solid, or a thermodynamic-relati ng to the mechanics
steam heated to water's exact boiling point is liquid and a gas. The name is derived from of heat.
used to cook food . the phrase surface-active agent. thermo-irreversible-a substance that,
steam-an invisible vapor or gas phase of syneresis-a process in which liquid once transformed from another state (such as
XXV III VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

from a liquid to a solid), cannot return to its collapse of cavitation bubbles can reduce the are implicated as potential being the most
previous state by the application of heat. size of dispersed particles (such as oil drop- dangerous form ofLDL as a risk factor for
thermo-reversible gel-a gel that returns to lets) to form a stable suspension or emulsion. cardiovascular disease.
a liquid state when heated to its melting point ultraviolet light-light whose wavelength is vicinal water-water whose molecules are
and does not return to a gel when cooled. longer than that of x-rays and shorter than attached to particle surfaces via hydrogen
thermo-reversible-a substance that, once that oflight visible to humans. bonding. This type of water in food evapo-
transformed from another state (such as unsaturated fat-a fat with fatty acid rates only at temperatures that are higher
from a liquid to a solid), can return to its molecules that have two or more double or than usual.
previous state by the application of heat. triple bonds. It is typically found in vegetable virion-a virus particle.
thermostat-a device that measures and oils. Unsaturated fats are usually liquid at viscometer-a device used to measure a
regulates temperature. room temperature. substance's viscosity.
tincture-a solution of a material in alcohol, urea-a compound formed by protein viscosity-the ability of a gas or liquid to
water and alcohol, or ether and alcohol. decomposition; found in the urine of hu- resist flowing when shear force is applied to it.
torr-a unit of pressure used most often in mans, mammals, and certain other animals. W/0-an emulsion in which water is
vacuum systems; 1 torr equals approximately vacuole-in plant cells, a cavity filled with distributed as the dispersed phase in a
1.3 millibar or one millimeter of mercury. air and water. continuous phase of oil.
total dissolved solids (TDS)-the amount vacuum evaporation-a method of remov- water activity-a measurement of the
of a solid substance that has been dissolved ing excess water from a material, by evapo- amount of free water that is not bound to
in a liquid (such as the amount of extracted rating it using low pressure (i.e., a partial other molecules.
compounds in coffee). vacuum). water-vapor oven-an oven that uses
trans fat-a fat that contains trans fatty vacuum filtration-a process for filtering heated water vapor to cook.
acids (unsaturated fatty acids that have been liquids using a vacuum to help force the wavelength-the distance between two
associated with an increase of cholesterol in liquid through the filter. points in a wave along the line of the direc-
the blood). vacuum inflation -a method of creating tion in which the wave is advancing.
transglutaminase-a family of natural foam by subjecting a liquid to low pressure, Weiss Distribution Technique (WDT)-in
enzymes that causes amino acids in proteins causing gas bubbles in it to expand, and espresso making, a method of grooming that
to cross-link or bond. This can be used to causing gas dissolved in the liquid to come involves adding coffee to the portafilter with
coagulate a protein containing liquid into a out of solution. a funnel, then stirring the grounds to prevent
gel, strengthen a protein-based gel, or "glue" vacuum reduction-a method concentrat- clumping.
meat or other proteins together. Activa is a ing a liquid food, by evaporating water from wet-bulb temperature-the temperature
popular brand name. it using low pressure (a partial vacuum). This measured by a thermometer with a wet
trichinellosis-a foodborne disease caused lowers the boiling point and allows evapora- sensor. It is never higher than the dry-bulb
by the trichina parasite. Also called tion to occur at lower temperatures. temperature. Wet-bulb and dry-bulb
trichinosis. vacuum-a space in which little to no matter temperatures are equal when the relative
triglyceride-a lipid that consists of fatty exists (ideally none) and in which gases do humidity is 100%, otherwise wet-bulb is
acid and an alcohol called glycerol. not interfere with processes because the lower.
trimethylamine oxide (TMAO)-a com- pressure is far lower than typical atmospheric wet-curing-see curing.
pound that creates an unpleasant smell in pressure. In practice, all attainable vacuums wet-grinding-the process of grinding
aging fish carcasses by reacting with fatty are only partial, having low gas pressure. material into smaller pieces in a fluid.
acids. vapor pressure-the pressure created by a whipping siphon-a device used to create
triple point-the temperature and pressure vapor that exists in equilibrium with a solid foam in which particles of pressurized gas
necessary for a substance to exist in three ora liquid. inserted into a liquid-filled metal tube
phases (such as solid, gas, and liquid) acting vaporization-changing a substance from a expand into bubbles in the liquid as they
in equilibrium. liquid or solid state to a gas. leave the tube.
Tyndall effect-light scattering by a colloidal variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (vCJD) - xanthophyll-a yellow carotenoid pigment
suspension of particles in a fluid. It is related a form of Creutzfeldt-Jacob disease caused by found in certain flowers, fruits, and plant
to Mie scattering and Rayleigh scattering. eating prion-infected beef products. leaves.
ultrasonic homogenizer-a device that very-low-density lipoprotein (VLDL)-a yeast-a single cell fungus used in ferment-
causes cavitation in liquids by creating molecule in which a protein and a lipid are ing wine, and in creating the gas bubbles that
high-frequency vibrations in the liquid. The combined, which is found in blood. VLDLs cause bread to rise.
XX I X
SOURCES OF EQUIPMENT AND INGREDIENT S
Equipment
Purveyor Address Phone Website Products
A & D Engineering 1756 Automation Pkwy. 408-263-5333 andweighing.com scales

San Jose, CA 95131
Accutemp Products, 8415 N. Clinton Park 800-210-5907 accutemp.net Accu-Steam griddles

Inc. Fort Wayne, IN 46825
Aerolatte 2 Codicote Rd. (+44) 845 872 4954 aerolatte.com Aerolattes

Welwyn AL6 9NB
United Kingdom
Avestin, Inc. 2450 Don Reid Dr. 888-AVESTIN avestin.com high-pressure

Ottawa, Ontario K1H1E1 homogenizers
Canada
Benriner Co. 741-0062 benriner.co.jp Japanese mandolins

3-7-3, lwakuni City,
Yamaguchi
Japan
Berkel, Inc. 701 S Ridge Ave. 800-348-0251 berkelequipment.com slicers

Troy, OH 45374
1114 W. Main St. birosaw.com meat grinders
Marblehead, OH 43440
41 Eagle Rd. 203-796-2298 bransondeaning.com ultrasonic baths

Danbury, CT 06813
19 Lukens Dr., Suite 400 877-MYBUCHI buchi.com rotary evaporators

New Castle, DE 19720
PO Box26003 buonvino.com wine filters
365 Franklin Blvd.
Ontario N1R 8E8
Canada
Cambro 5801 Skylab Rd. 800-833-3003 cool.cambro.com food storage

Huntington Beach, CA containers
92647
Carpigiani Corp 3760 Industrial Dr. 336-661-9893 www.carpigiani.com ice cream machines
of N. America Winston-Salem, NC
27105
Champion Juicer/ 6220 E. Highway 12 866-935-8423 championjuicer.com juicers

Plastaket Mfg. Co. Lodi, CA 95240
Comeau Technique, 440 Aime-Vincent 800-361-2553 comeau.ca aspirators

Ltd. Vaudreuii-Dorion
QuebecJ7V 5V5
Canada
Corning Tower 2, 4th floor 800-492-1110 corning.com hot plates, Pyrex

900 Chelmsford St. beakers
Lowell, MA 01851
2799-C Merrilee Dr. 800-621-4778 cscscientific.com viscometers
Fairfax, VA 22031
Cuisinart 150 Milford Rd. 800-726-0190 cuisinart.com food processors

East Winsor, NJ 08520
Fisher Scientific 2000 Park Lane Dr. 412-490-8300 fishersci .com rotor-stator homoge-
Pittsburgh, PA 15275 nizers, water baths
Worldwide
Fluke Corp. 6920 Seaway Blvd. us.fluke.com thermometers
Everett, WA 98203
XXX VOLUME 5 PLAHDDISH RECIPES

Equipment, continued

Genevac, Inc. 815 Route 208 845-267-2211 genevac.com Genevac rocket
Gardiner, NY 12525 distillers
Hamilton Beach 360 Page Rd . 800-851-8900 hamiltonbeach.com
Brands, Inc. Washington, NC 27899
Hanna Instruments, 800-426-6287 hannainst.com refractometers, pH

Inc. meters
Henkelman BV PO Box2117 (+31) 73 621 36 71 henkelman .com vacuum sealers
Hi-Tech Vacuum, Inc. 1445A, RR5 819-397-4888 hitechvacuum.com vacuum sealers

Saint-Cyrille-de-Wendoue r
QuebecJlZ 155
Canada
Hobart Corp. 701 S Ridge Ave. 888-HOBART hobartcorp.com tumble briners
Troy, OH 45374
Hoshizaki America, 618 Hwy. 74S 800-438-6087 hoshizakiamerica.com ice machines
Inc. Peachtree City, GA 30269
Hualian Packaging 6 Chanyeyuan Rd. (+86) 57 78 86 27 766 hualianpackagingmachines .com strip sealers
Machines 325028 Wenzhou, China
iSi North America, 175 Route 46 W 973-227-2426 isinorthamerica.com siphons

Inc. Fairfield, NJ 07004
lwatani Group 2050 Center Ave., 201-585-2442 iwatani.com induction burners

Suite 425
Fort Lee, NJ 07024
JB Prince 36 E. 31st St. 800-473-0577 jbprince.com books, kitchen
New York, NY 10016 utensils
Julabo Eisenbahn Strasse 45 (+49) 7823 510 julabo.de cooling baths
77960 Seelbach
Germany
Koch 1414 West 29th Street 816-753-2150 kochequipment.com chamber-style vacuum
Kansas City, MO sealers
64108-3604 USA
Kuhn Rikon CH-8486 (+41) 52 396 01 01 kuhnrikon.ch pressure cookers
Rikon, Switzerland
Labline Scientific C/ 108 Maruti Darshan (+91) 22 216 33671 labline.in water baths
Instruments Hanuman Chowk
LT. Road, Mulund (East)
Mumbai 400 081
Maharashtra, India
Lenox 301 Chestnut St. 413-525-3961 lenoxtools.com MAPP gas torches
E. Longmeadow, MA
01028
LISS America 2060 O'Neil Rd. 315-986-7685 liss-america.com nitrous and carbon
Macedon, NY 14502 dioxide chargers
Mettler Toledo, Inc. 1900 Polaris Parkway 800-MEITLER us.mt.com scales
Columbus, OH 43240
Microplane 614 S.R. 247 800-555-2767 us.microplane.com Microplanes
Russelville, AR 72802
Moschetti, Inc. 800-556-4414 moschetti.com pasta machines
Vallejo, CA 94590
XXXI
Equipment, continued
Multivac 11021 North Pomona Ave. 816-891-0555 multivac.com chamber-style vacuum

Kansas City, MO 64153 sealers
Omni 935-C Cobb Place Blvd. NW 770-421-0058 omni-inc.com rotor stator

Kennesaw, GA 30144 homogenizer
PacojetAG Bundestrasse 7 (+41) 41710 2522 pacojet.com Pacojet

CH-6300Zug
Switzerland
PicoTech James House (+44) 1480 396 395 picotech.com temperature loggers
Marlborough Road
Colmworth Business Park
Eaton Socon
St Neots, Cambridgeshire
PE19 8YP United Kingdom
PolyScience 6600 West Touhy Ave. 800-229-7569 polyscience.com circulators; Anti-
Niles, ll60714 Griddle
Rational Ovens I 895 American lane. 866-891-3528 rationalusa.com combiovens

Akno ltd. Schaumburg. ll60173-4570
Sanplatec Corp. No. 1-3, 2-Chome Doshini, (+81) 816 63 53 5141 www .sanplatec.co.jp Drykeeper environ-
Kita-ku mental chamber
Osaka City 530-0035
Japan
Sartorius AG 5 Orville Dr. 800-645-3108 sartorius.com scales
Bohemia, NY 11716
Shanghai Shenyin Room 1703-04 (+86) 21 56 080 777 www.shenyin.com colloidal mills
Machine Factory Building B long
48 Jiaotong West Rd.
Shanghai, China
SP Industries I Virtis 935 Mearns Rd. 800-523-2327 spscientific.com freeze dryers
Warminster, PA 18974
Sunpentownl 21415 Baker Pkwy. 800-330-0388 sunpentown.com induction burners

Mr. Induction City of Industry, CA 91789
Taylor Company 750 N. Blackhawk Rd. 800-255-0626 taylor-company.com ice cream machines
Rockton, ll61072
Thermo Scientific I 81 Wyman St. 781-622-1000 thermofisher.com centrifuges, water

Waltham, MA 02454 baths, cryofreezers
Sorvall
Thermo Works 1762 West 20 S, #100 801-756-7705 thermoworks.com temperature sensors
lindon, UT 84042
Vitamix Corp. 8615 Usher Rd. 800-848-2649 vitamix.com Vita-Prep blenders

Cleveland, OH 44138
Vorwerk USA Co. 1964 Corporate Square 800-562-6726 vorwerk.com Thermomix blenders
longwood,Fl32750
VWR Scientific 1310 Goshen Pkwy. 610-431-1700 vwrsp.com water baths

Products West Chester, PA 19380
Waring Commercial 314 Ella T. Grasso Ave. 800-492-7464 waringproducts.com deep fryers
Torrington, CT 06790
Winston Industries 2345 Carton Dr. 800-234-5286 winstonind.com CVaps, pressure fryers
louisville, KY 40299
Yamato Scientific 925 Walsh Ave. 408-235-7725 www.yamato-net.co.jp spray dryers,

Santa Clara, CA 95050 autoclaves
America, Inc.
XXX II VOlUME 5 PlATED - DISH RECIPES

Meats

Corfini Gourmet 1730 First Avenue South 206-937-3141 corfinigourmet.com sustainably ranched meats
Seattle, Washington from the Pacific Northwest
98134 of North America
Heritage Meats 18241 Pendleton St. SW 360-273-2202 heritagemeatswa.com beef, veal
Rochester, WA 98579
Kapowsin Meat, Inc. 29401118th Ave. E 253-847-1777 pork
Graham, WA 98338
Mad Hatcher Farms 1437DSt.SW 509-237-1351 poularde, pigeon, rabbit
Ephrata, WA 98823
Stokesbeny 7429 85th LaneSE 360-485-2558 stokesberrysustainablefarm.com chickens, roosters
Sustainable Farm Olympia, WA 98513
Thundering Hooves 2021 Isaacs Ave. 866-350-9400 thunderinghooves.net pork, beef

Walla Walla, WA 99362
Zoe's Meats 133 Copeland St. 707-763-9637 zoesmeats.com meats
Petaluma, CA 94952
Seafood

Browne Trading Merrill's Wharf 207-766-2404 brownetrading.com caviar, other seafood
Company 260 Commercial St.
Portland, ME 04101
Taylor Shellfish 130 SE Lynch Rd . 360-426-6178 taylorshellfishfarms.com shellfish, geoduck
Farm, Inc. Shelton, WA 98584
True World Foods 24 Link Dr. 201-750-0024 trueworldfoods.com shellfish, sashimi-grade

Rockleigh, NJ 07647 fish, other seafood
Wild Salmon Fishermen's Terminal 888-222-FISH wildsalmonseafood.com seafood from Alaska and
Seafood 1900 West Nickerson the Pacific Northwest of
Street#105 North America
Seattle, WA 98119
Other Ingredients

Chefs Garden 9009 Huron-Avery Rd. 800-289-4644 chefs-garden.com micro greens
Huron, Ohio 44839
Foraged and Found 866-951-1031 foragedandfoundedibles.com foraged mushrooms, other

Edibles produce
Full Circle Farms 31904 N.E. 8th St. 425-333-4677 fullcirclefarms.com organic produce
Carnation, WA 98014
Mikuni Wild Harvest Queens, NY 866-993-9927 mikuniwildharvest.com foraged mushrooms, other
produce, fish and seafood,
oils and vinegars, truffles
Sungrown Organic 2325 Hollister St. 619-662-1780 sungrownorganics.com microgreens
Distr. San Diego, CA 92154
XXXIII
REFERENCE TABLES
Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius
( c) ( F) ( F) ( c)
28 82.4 28 - 2.2
Converting Temperature
29 84.2 29 - 1.7
To co nvert t emperatures from Celsius to
30 86.0 30 - 1.1
Fahrenh eit, multiply by 1.8, th en add 32 t o th e
produ ct. 31 87.8 31 - 0.6
To co nvert fro m Fahrenheit to Ce lsius, subtract 32 89.6 32 0.0

32, th en multiply th e result by% (0 .56). 33 91.4 33 0.6
Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius 34 93.2 34 1.1
<c> (F) ( F) ( c) 35 95.0 35 1.7
- 196.0 - 320.8 - 200.0 - 128.9 36 96.8 36 2.2
- 78.5 - 109.3 - 80.0 - 62.2 37 98.6 37 2.8
- 60.0 - 76.0 - 60.0 - 51.1 38 100.4 38 3.3

- 40.0 - 40.0 - 40.0 - 40.0 39 102.2 39 3.9
- 20.0 - 4.0 - 20.0 - 28.9 40 104.0 40 4.4
0 32.0 0 - 17.8 41 105.8 41 5.0
33.8 - 17.2 42 107.6 42 5.6
2 35.6 2 - 16.7 43 109.4 43 6.1
3 37.4 3 - 16.1 44 111.2 44 6.7
4 39.2 4 - 15.6 45 113.0 45 7.2
5 41.0 5 - 15.0 46 114.8 46 7.8
6 42.8 6 - 14.4 47 116.6 47 8.3
7 44.6 7 - 13.9 48 118.4 48 8.9
8 46.4 8 -13.3 49 120.2 49 9.4
9 48.2 9 - 12.8 50 122.0 50 10.0
10 50.0 10 - 12.2 51 123.8 51 10.6
11 51.8 11 - 11.7 52 125.6 52 11.1
12 53.6 12 - 11.1 53 127.4 53 11.7
13 55.4 13 - 10.6 54 129.2 54 12.2
14 57.2 14 - 10.0 55 131.0 55 12.8
15 59.0 15 - 9.4 56 132.8 56 13.3
16 60.8 16 - 8.9 57 134.6 57 13.9
17 62.6 17 - 8.3 58 136.4 58 14.4
18 64.4 18 - 7.8 59 138.2 59 15.0
19 66.2 19 - 7.2 60 140.0 60 15.6
20 68.0 20 - 6.7 61 141.8 61 16.1
21 69.8 21 - 6.1 62 143.6 62 16.7
22 71.6 22 - 5.6 63 145.4 63 17.2
23 73.4 23 -5.0 64 147.2 64 17.8
24 75.2 24 - 4.4 65 149.0 65 18.3
25 77.0 25 - 3.9 66 150.8 66 18.9
26 78.8 26 -3.3 67 152.6 67 19.4
27 80.6 27 -2.8 68 154.4 68 20.0
XXXIV VOLUME 5 PLATED DISH RECIPES

Converting Temperature
Celsius to Fahrenheit Fahrenheit to Celsius Celsius to Fahrenheit
("C) (" F)
69 69 20.6
70 158.0 70 311 155
71 159.8 71 21.7 320 160
72 161.6 72 22.2 165 329 165 73.9
73 163.4 73 22.8 170 338 170 76.7
74 175 347 175 79.4
75 167.0 75 23.9 356 180 82.2
76 168.8 76 365 185
77 170.6 77
78 172.4 78 25.6 90.6
79 174.2 79 26.1
80 176.0 80 26.7 96.1
81 177.8 81 27.2 98.9
82 179.6 82 27.8 101.7
83 181.4 83 28.3 104.4
84 183.2 84 28.9
85 185.0 85 29.4
86 186.8 86
87 188.6 87 240 115.6
88 190.4 88 245 118.3
89 192.2 89 250 121.1
90 194.0 90 255 491 255 123.9
91 195.8
92 197.6 92
93 199.4 93
94 201.2 94 34.4
95 203.0 95 35.0
96 204.8 96 35.6
97 206.6 97 36.1
98 208.4 98
99 210.2 99
100 212 100 USEFUL TEMPERATURES
105 221 105 Boiling point of liquid nitrogen:
110 230 110 -196 oc I -321 F
115 239 115 Sublimation temperature of dry ice:
-78.5 C I -109.3 OF
120 248 120
Freezing point of water:
125 257 125 0 oc I 32 OF
130 266 130 54.4 Boiling point of water at sea level:
135 275 135 57.2 100 oc I 212 OF
140 284 140 60.0
145 293 145 62.8
XXXV
Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients Converting Weights
To convert the weights given in our recipes to volumetric measurements, To convert weights from grams to
divide the number of grams by the conversion factor below. ounces, divide by 28.35. To convert
1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp '/2 cup 1 cup from ounces to grams, multiply by
28.35.
PANTRY ITEMS
Flours and Starches Grams to ounces Ounces to grams
10.0 80 160 (g) (oz) (oz) (g)

OOflour 0.68 3.3
0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80 0.1 0.004 0.1 2.8
all-purpose flour
0.2 0.007 0.2 5.7
almond flour 0.57 2.8 8.4 68 135
0.3 O.D11 0.3 8.5
buckwheat flour, sifted 0.55 2.7 8.1 65 130
0.4 0.014 0.4 11.3
cake flour 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117
0.5 0.018 0.5 14.2
chickpea flour, sifted 0.56 2.8 8.3 66 132
0.6 0.021 0.6 17.0
com meal 0.67 3.3 9.9 79 158
0.7 0.025 0.7 19.8
cornstarch 0.03 0.2 0.5 4 8
0.8 0.028 0.8 22.7
durumflour 0.63 3.1 9.4 75 150
0.9 0.032 0.9 25.5
gluten flour 0.04 0.2 0.6 5 10
0.035 28.4
rice flour, glutinous 0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117
2 0.071 2 56.7
rice flour, sweet 0.63 3.1 9.4 75 150
3 0.106 3 85.1
semolina 0.79 3.9 11.7 94 187
4 0.141 4 113.4
tapioca 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
5 0.176 5 141.8
Grains and legumes 6 0.212 6 170.1
barley 0.70 3.5 10.4 83 166 198.5
7 0.247 7
brown rice crisp 0.15 0.8 2.3 18 36 8 0.282 8 226.8
chickpeas 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 9 0.317 9 255.2
lentils, black (urad dal) 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 10 0.353 10 283.5
lentils, green 0.87 4.3 12.9 104 207 11 0.388 11 311.9
oats, rolled 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100 12 0.423 12 340.2
oats, steel-cut 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178 13 0.459 13 368.6
oats, toasted 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100 14 0.494 14 396.9
peas, black-eyed 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 15 0.529 15 425.3
quinoa 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178 16 0.564 16 453.6
rice, Arborio 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210 17 0.600 17 482.0
0.79 3.9 11 .8 94 188 18 0.635 18 510.3

rice, basmati
98 196 19 0 .670 19 538.7
rice, jasmine 0.83 4.1 12.3
20 0 .705 20 567.0
rice, paella 0.80 4.0 11.9 95 190
21 0.741 21 595.4
rice, sushi 0.90 4.4 13.3 106 212
22 0.776 22 623.7
rice, wild 0.74 3.6 10.9 88 175
23 0.811 23 652.1
rye, berries 0.78 3.9 11 .6 93 185
24 0.847 24 680.4
rye, cracked 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
25 0.882 25 708.8
soybeans 0.40 2.0 5.9 48 95
30 1.058 30 850.5
tapioca, small pearl 0.75 3.7 11.1 89 178
'---------
XXXVI VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

r Converting Grams to Vol urn"' f ..... t
.. r
Grams to ounces Ounces to grams 1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp Yz cup 1 cup
(g) (oz) (oz) (g) liquid s
35 1.235 35 992.3 cocoa butter 0.58 2.9 8.6 69 138
40 1.411 40 1,134.0 cream, whipping 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
45 1.587 45 1,275.8 creme fraiche 0.96 4.8 14.3 114 228
50 1.764 50 1,417.5 milk, 1%fat 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
55 1.940 55 1,559.3 milk, 2%fat 0 .93 4.6 13.7 110 219
60 2.116 60 1,701.0
milk, skim 0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232
65 2.293 65 1,842.8
milk, soy 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
70 2.469 70 1,984.5
milk, whole 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
75 2.646 75 2,126.3
oils 0.78 3.9 11.6 93 185
80 2.822 80 2,268.0
vinegars 0.86 4.3 12.8 102 204
85 2.998 85 2,409.8
vodka 0.80 4.0 11.9 95 190
90 3.175 90 2,551.5
water 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230
95 3.351 95 2,693.3
wine 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210
100 3.527 100 2,835.0
Nuts
110 3.880 110 3,118.5
almonds, blanched 0.61 3.0 9.1 73 145
120 4.233 120 3,402.0
almonds, marcona, roasted 0.55 2.7 8.1 65 130
130 4.586 130 3,685.5
140 4.938 140 3,969.0
cashews, roasted 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
150 5.291 150 4,252.5 hazelnuts, peeled and roasted 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
160 5.644 160 4,536.0 macadamia nuts, roasted 1.14 5.6 16.9 135 270
170 5.996 170 4,819.5 pine nuts, roasted 0.61 3.0 9.1 73 145
180 6.349 180 5,103.0 pistachios, peeled and roasted 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
190 6.702 190 5,386.5 walnuts, roasted 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
200 7.055 200 5,670.0 Sa uces and Syrups
250 8 .818 250 7,087.5 barley malt 1.69 8.3 25.0 200 400
300 10.582 300 8,505.0 ketchup 1.19 5.9 17.6 141 282
350 12.346 350 9,922.5 maple syrup 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
400 14.109 400 11 ,340.0 molasses 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
450 15.873 450 12,757.5 soy sauce, brown 1.08 5.3 16.0 128 256
500 17.637 500 14,175.0 soy sauce, white 1.08 5.3 16.0 128 256
550 19.400 550 15,592.5 tomato paste 1.12 5.5 16.6 133 265
600 21.164 600 17,010.0 Worcestershire sauce 1.19 5.9 17.6 141 282
650 22.928 650 18,427.5 Sugars
700 24.691 700 19,845.0
agave nectar 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
750 26.455 750 21 ,262.5
fructose 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195
800 28.219 800 22,680.0
glucose 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
850 29.982 850 24,097.5
honey 1.45 7.2 21.5 172 344
900 31.746 900 25,515.0
isomalt 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225
950 33.510 950 26,932.5
sugar, brown 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
1,000 35.273 1,000 28,350.0
sugar, Demerara 0.70 3.5 10.4 83 166
1 pound = 453.59 g / 16 oz; 1 kg = 2.2 lb ------
XXXVII
Converting Grams to Vol ~ rC Common Conversion Factors
1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp Y, cup 1 cup To convert from: To: Multiply by:
sugar, granulated 0.87 4.3 12.8 103 205 ml tsp 0.203
sugar, muscovado 1.08 5.3 15.9 128 255 tsp ml 4.93
sugar, palm 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195 ml Tbsp 0.068
0.49 2.4 7.2 58 115 Tbsp ml 14.787

sugar, powdered
0.98 4.8 14.5 116 232 ml cup 0.004
sugar, raw cane
cup ml 236.59
SEASONINGS
tsp cup 0.021
Chilies, Dry
0.50 2.5 7.4 59 118 cup tsp 48
Aleppo peppers, crushed
0.32 1.6 4.8 38 77 Tbsp cup 0.063
black peppercorns, ground
cup Tbsp 16
black peppercorns, whole 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144
ml oz 0.034
cayenne, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
oz ml 29.574
Hungarian paprika, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
pint qt 0.25
pi menton de Ia Vera, powder 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
qt pint 4
pink peppercorns, whole 0.44 2.3 6.5 52 104
qt gal 0.25
red chili, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
gal qt 4
Sichuan pepper, crushed 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
qt 0.946
Thai chili, flakes 0.3 7 1.8 5.5 44 88
qt 1.057
white peppercorns, whole 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
gal 0.264
Herbs and Aromatics, Fre s h, Minced 3.785
gal
basil 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93
oz lb 0.063
chamomile, dry blossoms, 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48
lb oz 16
powder
g oz 0.035
chamomile, dry blossoms, whole 0.10 0.5 1.5 12 24
oz g 28.35
cilantro 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
g lb 0.002
elderberry, dry 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
lb g 453.592
garlic 1.15 5.7 17.0 136 272
oz kg 0.028
hawthorne berries 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144
kg oz 35.274
heather tips 0.17 0.8 2.5 20 40
lb kg 0.454
juniper berries 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
kg lb 2.2
lavender 0 .14 0.7 2.0 16 32
mm in 0.394
lemon zest, grated 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152 mm 25.4
in
lemongrass, minced 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112 em in 0.394
licorice root, chunks 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96 in em 2.54
lime zest, grated 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152 m ft 3.3
mint 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48 ft m 0.305
orange zest 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152 min 0.017
oregano 0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93 BTU 0.001
parsley 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120 BTU 1,055.10
0.39 1.9 5.8 47 93 kcal BTU 3.966

rosemary
0.49 2.4 7.3 59 117 BTU kcal 0.252
shallots
XXXVIII VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

Converting Grams to Volur1e for r c
1 ml 1 tsp 1 Tbsp Y> cup 1 cup To convert from: To: Multiply by:
tarragon 0 .34 1.7 5.0 40 80 kcal 4,184
Thai chili, minced 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96 kcal 0 .000
winter greens, dry 0.24 1.2 3.5 28 56 w BTU/ h 0.001
He rb s, Dry BTU/ h w 1,055.04
oregano 0.17 0.8 2.5 20 40 w hp 0.001
rosemary 0 .20 1.0 3.0 24 48 hp w 745.7
savory 0.20 1.0 3.0 g/cm' oz/ in' 0.578

24 48
Sa lts oz/ in' g/cm' 1.73
N lb force 0.225
salt, Bali pyramid 0 .81 4.0 12.0 96 192
lbforce N 4.482
salt, black 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
mbar torr 0.75
salt, fine sea 1.14 6.2 18.5 135 270
torr mbar 1.333
salt, kosher 1.06 5.8 17.6 125 250
mbar psi 0 .015
salt, Maldon 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
psi mbar 68.95
salt, sea 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
bar psi 14.5
salt, sumac 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
psi bar 0.069
Spi ces, Dry
Pa mbar O.ol
ajowan seed, powder 0 .56 2.8 8.3 66 132
mbar Pa 100
ajowan seed, whole 0 .56 2.8 8 .3 67 133
bar atm 0.987
angelica seed, whole 0.09 0.5 1.4 11 22
atm bar 1.013
barley malt vinegar, powder 0 .57 2.8 8.5 68 136
caraway seed 0 .52 2.6 7.8 62 124
cardamom seed, green 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136
cassia, chunks 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
celery seed
Converting Volume
0.47 3.0 7.0 56 112
Measures
chaat masala 0.64 3.2 9.5 76 152
Metric u.s. Imperial
chicory 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
(ml) (pint) (fl oz)
cinnamon, powder 0.46 2.3 6.8 55 109
5 1 tsp s
clove, powder 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112
15 1 Tbsp Y>
clove, whole 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
30 2Tbsp
cocoa nib 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
60 14 cup V 2
cocoa powder 0 .57 2.8 8.4 68 135 y,
90 V1cup 3
coconut cream, powder 0.37 1.8 5 .5 44 88 120 Y> cup Vs 4
coriander seed 0 .34 1.7 5.0 40 80 150 :y, cup 5
cumin, black 0.46 2.3 6 .8 55 109 180 :Y., cup 6
cumin, powder 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 240 1 cup 8
cumin, whole 0.23 1.1 3.4 27 54 300 114 10
fennel seed, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104 cups
fennel seed, whole 0 .79 480 2cups 16

3.9 11.7 94 187
600 2V2 20
fenugreek seed 0 .95 4.7 14.0 112 224
cups
four-spice, powder 0 .41 2.0 6.0 48 96
1,000 1 quart 4 32
------=-
XXXIX
Converting Grams to Vol nn I nrarlinnh: Water Content of Typical Foods
1 ml ltsp 1 Tbsp Y, cup 1 cup Water
Food content
garum masala, powder 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128
(%)
ginger, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88
Animal Foods
grains of paradise, whole 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
beef, eye of round, raw 73
licorice, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
beef, ground, 73% lean, raw 56
mace, powder 0.34 1.7 5.0 40 80
beef, ground, 85% lean, raw 64
mace, whole 0.41 2.0 6.0 48 96
beef, whole brisket, raw 71
mustard seed, black, whole 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
butter or margarine 20
mustard seed, yellow, whole 0.74 3.7 11.0 88 176
cheese, American 37
nigella seed, whole 0.78 3.8 11.5 92 184
chicken fryer, whole, raw 66
nutmeg, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104
chicken, dark meat, with skin, 66
pomegranate seed, whole 0.81 4.0 12.0 96 192
raw
poppy seed, black 0.57 2.8 8.5 68 136
chicken, white meat, with skin, 69
poppy seed, black or white 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 raw
porcini mushroom, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120 eggs, raw, whole 74
saffron, threads 0.20 1.0 3.0 24 48 ham, cooked 54
scallop, freeze-dried, powder 0.37 1.8 5.5 44 88 milk, cow 87
sesame seed, black 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 pork, chops, broiled 45
sesame seed, roasted 0.54 2.7 8.0 64 128 turkey, roasted 62
star anise, powder 0.44 2.2 6.5 52 104 veal, broiled 60
tamarind, powder 0.47 2.3 7.0 56 112 Fruits

tomato, freeze-dried, powder 0.61 3.0 9.0 72 144 apple, raw 84
turmeric, powder 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120 apricot, raw 86
Dairy banana, raw 75
butter 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225 blackberry, raw 86
cream cheese 0.89 4.4 13.1 105 210 blueberry, raw 85
creme fraiche 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225 cantaloupe, raw 90
Gruyere, grated 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90 cherry, raw 80
mascarpone 0.95 4.7 14.1 113 225 cranberry, raw 87
Parmesan, grated 0.30 1.5 4.4 35 70 fruit cocktail, canned 80
ricotta 1.04 5.1 15.4 124 247 grape, raw 82
Eggs grapefruit, raw 90
chicken egg, blended 0.98 5.8 17.5 116 232 mango, raw 82
chicken egg, large, white 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215 melon, honeydew, raw 90
chicken egg, large, yolk 0.85 4.2 12.5 100 200 orange, raw 87
Fish papaya, raw 89
fish, ground 0.97 4.8 14.4 115 230 peach, raw 88
roe, steel head trout 1.50 7.5 22.3 178 357 pear, raw 84
shrimp, ground 0.96 4.7 14.1 113 226 pineapple, raw 85

tobiko 0.80 3.9 11.8 94 189 plum, raw 85
raspberry, raw 81
XL VOLUME 5 PLATEDDISH RECIPES

Water Content ofTypical foorl" Water Content of Typical Fo ri.
Water Water
Food content Food content
(%) (%)
strawberry, raw 92 greens, turnip 91

watermelon, raw 93 kale, raw 87
Grains, Legumes, Nuts, and Seeds lettuce, iceberg, raw 96
almonds, raw 7 lettuce, loose leaf, raw 94
bread, whole wheat 35 lettuce, romaine, raw 95
coconut, dried 7 mushroom, raw 92
grains/legumes/s eeds, dry s10 okra, boiled or raw 90
lentils, cooked 67 olives 80
macaroni or spaghetti, cooked 70 onions, raw 89
pecans, raw 7 parsnip, raw 80
rice, bleached 68 peas, green, raw 80
walnuts, raw 4 peppers, bell 92
Herbs pickle, cucumber 93
cilantro, raw 92 potato, raw 85
parsley, raw 86 pumpkin, canned 90
Sweeteners pumpkin, raw 92
honey 15 radish, raw 95
jam/preserves 30 rutabaga, boiled 90
molasses 25 sauerkraut, canned 93
Vegetables spinach, raw 92
asparagus, raw 92 squash, acorn, raw 88
bean sprout, raw 92 squash, boiled 96
bean, green, raw 90 squash, butternut 94
beet, raw 87 squash, kabocha, raw 94
bok choy, raw 95 squash, spaghetti 94
broccoli, raw 91 squash, yellow 94
Brussels sprout, raw 86 sweet potato, boiled in skin 71
cabbage, raw 92 sweet potato, raw 73
carrot, raw 88 Swiss chard 94
cassava, raw 60 tomato, raw 93
cauliflower, raw 92 watercress, raw 90
celery, raw 95 zucchini 95
corn, sweet, fresh, raw 74
cucumber, raw 96
eggplant, raw 92
greens, beet, raw 92
greens, collard, raw 91
greens, dandelion, raw 86
XLI
Converting Grams to Volu Cor lnor<=>rl" --~
1 ml ltsp 1 Tbsp Y:z cup 1 cup
Meat, Ground
beef 1.27 6.3 18.8 150 300
chicken, breast 1.06 5 .2 15.6 125 250
chicken, thigh 1.06 5.2 15.6 125 250
pork 1.27 6.3 18.8 150 300
Vegetables and Fruits

apple, thinly sliced 0.49 2.4 7.2 58 115
avocado, puree 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
butternut squash, brunoise 0.05 0.2 0.7 6 11
butternut squash, thinly sliced 0.66 3.2 9.7 78 155
cabbage, red, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cabbage, white, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cantaloupe, thinly sliced 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
carrot, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
cauliflower, thinly sliced 0.51 2.5 7.5 60 120
celery, thinly sliced 0.42 2.1 6.3 50 100
corn, kernels 0.76 3.8 11.3 90 180
fennel, thinly sliced 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
honeydew melon, thinly sliced 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
leek, thinly sliced 0.38 1.9 5.6 45 90
mushroom, button, thinly sliced 0.36 1.8 5.3 43 85
onion, thinly sliced 0.44 2.2 6.6 53 105
pea, green, shelled 0.68 3.3 10.0 80 160
pear, thinly sliced 0.72 3.5 10.6 85 170
pineapple, brunoise 0.08 0.4 1.2 9 18
pineapple, thinly sliced 0.82 4.1 12.2 98 195
scallion, thinly sliced (green part) 0.30 1.5 4.4 35 70
scallion, thinly sliced (white part) 0.41 2.0 6.1 49 98
shiitake mushroom, thinly sliced 0.27 1.4 4.1 33 65
tomatoes concasse 0.91 4.5 13.4 108 215
X lll VOLUME 5 PLATED - DISH RECIPES

Fat Content ofTypical Foods F-.. r .. e + ofTypc 1r
c t ofTyp 1. roods
Fat Content Typical Food Fat Content Typical Food Fat Content
(%) (%) (%)
Eggs, Dairy, and Oils liver, chicken 4 sesame seeds 48
butter 87 liver, veal 7 sunflower seeds so

cheese, aged, firm 25-31 pork, backfat 80 walnuts 61
cheese, aged, soft 23-35 pork, fatty 30 Other Plant Foods

cheese, Camembert 23 pork, lean 1.5-2 avocado 14
cheese, cheddar 31 red meat, lean 4 bread, whole wheat 4.2
cheese, cottage 4 red meat, marbled 10 chickpeas, cooked 2
cheese, cream 20 red poultry 1-1.5 com 2.7-8
cheese, fresh 2-18 (duck, goose, pigeon), fruit <1

breast meat, skinless
cheese, mozzarella 19 grains 0.15
red poultry, leg meat 12
cheese, Parmesan 24-26 lentils, boiled 0.5
sweetbreads 15-18
cheese, ricotta 13 vegetables <1
tongue 15
cream, double >38
veal, lean 3
cream, half-and-half 11-17
white poultry 6.5
cream, heavy 38 (chicken, turkey),
cream, light whipping 32-36 dark meat
cream, sour 12 white poultry, 1-1.5
white meat
creme fraiche 28
Fish and Shellfish
egg white 0.2
cod
egg yolk 26
mackerel 5
milk, cow 3.5
rockfish 3
milk, goat 4.5
salmon 5-10
milk, grey seal 53
sardine 5
milk, low fat 2
shellfish
milk, reindeer 17
tuna, belly 12-15
milk, sheep 7
tuna, lean
milk, skim 0
milk, water buffalo 9.5

whitefish
---
Nuts and Seeds
1-3
milk, whole 3.5-4

almonds
--- 55
oil, refined 99
cashews 44
oil, unrefined 96-99
coconut 57
Meats, Raw
hazelnuts 64
bacon 50-70
kukui nuts 64
bacon, Canadian 1-4 (candlenuts)
bone marrow 75 macadamia nuts 74
brain 8 olives 3
foiegras 45-52 peanuts 44
heart 3 pecans 70
kidneys 20 pistachios
----- 55
X llll
Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts ofTypical Foods
Typical food Weight or amount II Equivalent (approximate)
asparagus spears, fresh lib " 16 to 20 spears
bananas, fresh lib II 3-4 fruits; 2 cups sliced; or 1Y2 cups
mashed
beans, green, fresh lib 3 cups
beans, kidney, dried lib 2Y2 cups
beans, navy, dried lib 2Yl cups; sy, cups, cooked

beans, soy, dried lib 2cups
=
bread crumbs, dry 4oz :Y.. cup
bread crumbs, fresh 4oz 2 cups
~
broccoli, fresh lib 2 cups, chopped
carrots/ root vegetables, pureed lib l Y1 cups
-=
carrots/ root vegetables, sliced lib I 3 cups
cheese 3Y2 oz I 1 cup
coffee, ground lib 80Tbsp
=
corn, fresh 2 medium ears 1 cup of kernels
eggs, whole, extra large 1 dozen 3 cups
eggs, whole, large 1 dozen 2Yl cups
11
e~, whole, medium 1 dozen 2 cups
eggs, whole, small 1 dozen l:Y., cups
egg whites, extra large 1 dozen ups
egg whites, large 1 dozen 1Y2 cups
egg whites, medium 1 dozen 1% cups
egg whites, small 1 dozen l Y. cups
egg yolks, extra large 1 cup
en
1 H :::zen 11
'l's cup
egg yolks, large
egg yolks, medium 1 dozen jl :Y.. cup
~-
egg yolks, small 1 dozen 1 cup
fats, solid (butter, shortening, etc.) Y. lb; 4 oz Y2 cup; 8 Tbsp; 1 stick
F==
flours lib 3Y2 cups, sifted
fruit, dried, pitted, plumped lib 11

23 cups
~
fruit, dried, pitted, cooked, pureed lib 2% cups
i==
fruit, fresh, cooked and chopped lib 2% cups =
=
fruit, fresh, pureed lib li l Y. cups
F=
fruit, fresh, raw and sliced lib 3cups
F= =
gelatin, unflavored II 1 OZ Y. cup; 4 Tbsp, granulated
======-=
greens, leafy lib 1Y2 cups
==
herbs, fresh, chopped Y2 0Z 1 Tbsp
l Y1 cups
===-=
honey lib
i=== =
maple syrup 16floz 11
2 cups
X LIV VOLUME 5 PlATED-D I SH RECIPES

Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods
Typical food Equivalent (approximate)
meat, cooked
nuts, chopped
nuts, ground
oil, vegetable
onions, white, fresh
peas, green, fresh, in pod
pecans
potatoes, raw, sliced or chopped

rice, raw
spinach, fresh, cooked , cooked, squeezed dry, chopped
sugar, brown
===-
sugar, confectioner's lib
sugar, granulated 7oz
tomatoes, fresh Y.,-llb, whole , peeled and seeded
=== ==
vegetables (e.g., carrots, celery), 8 oz
raw, chopped fine
All conversions are approximate. Weights have been rounded to the nearest useful measure. Weights and
measures of specific ingredients may vary with altitude, humidity, variations in preparation methods, and
other factors.
XLV
THE MODERNIST CUISINE TEAM
Modernist Cuisine is-let's face it-a massive book. Creating it
required a commensurately massive effort, including years of work
(often into the wee hours of the night) by a team that grew to encom-
pass two dozen writers and editors; a dozen people working on design,
photography, and illustration; a half-dozen full-time chefs; and more
than a dozen external expert reviewers. Working with so many people
of such tremendous skill and dedication has been an honor.
Nathan Myhrvold Chris Young
Maxime Bilet Ryan Matthew Smith
XLV I VOLUME 5 PLATED - DISH RECIPES

WRITING AND EDITING
WaytGibbs
As the ed itor-in-c hi ef and project manager for the
book, Mr. Gibbs recruited the writ ing and editing team
and supervised all ed itorial , illustration, and produc-
tion work on the volumes . He also participated in the
ed iting of every part of the book. Executive edito r at
Intell ectual Ventures since 2006, Mr. Gibbs was an
editor and senior wr iter at Scientific American magazine
from 1992 to 2006.
Karen Wright Steven Ashley

A senior writer at Intellectual
A features editor for many years
Ventures since 2009, Ms. Wright
and now a contribut ing editor at
has been a contributing editor at
Scientific American, Mr. Ashley also
Discover magazine since 2000 and
writes for The New York Times and
was also a member of the board of
Automotive Engineering Internation-
ed itors at Scientific American
al. An avid home cook, he mixes
magazine as well as a correspon-
science with the convent ion al
dent for Nature and Science.
kitchen techniques he learned
from his Itali an mother and
Dutch-German grandmother.
Ellen Kurek Tracy Cutchlow

An editor at Intellectual Ventures An editor based in Seattle, Ms.
sin ce 2008, Ms. Kurek was lead Cutch low edited the books Brain
copy editor on the project. She is Rules and Brain Rules for Baby by
cert ifi ed as an Editor in the Life john Medina (Pear Press).
Sciences (ELS), has completed the
American Medical Writers
Association core curriculum in
editing and writing, and has ed ited
and written extensive ly for the
medical press.
Ivan Amato Rebekah Denn

Mr. Amato, an author of several The recipient of two james Beard
books on science who now works Awards, Ms. Denn was food writer
for The Pew Charitable Trust, has and restaurant critic for the Seattle
been a staff writer on several Post-lntelligencer.
magazines, including Science News
and Science. He also served as
managing editor of Chemical &
Engineering News .
XLVII
Amy Fass Sharon Silva Bryn Nelson
A scie nce ed itor who has worked One of the most experienced A Ph.D. in microbiology and
with the Environmental Protection cookbook editors in the United former science writer at Newsday,
Agency, the American National States, Ms. Silva copy ed ited Chef Dr. Nelson is now a Seattle-based
Standards Institute, IEEE Spectrum, Grant Achatz's bookA/inea. She freelance science and medical
and Hospital Medicine, Ms. Fass served as lead editor for the writer and has written for
wrote the medical ent ries and plated-dish recipes in vo lum e 5. MSNBC.com and Nature,
edited the math, astronomy, among other publications.
language, and chemistry entries
for Merriam-Webster's Collegiate
Encyclopedia.
Chnsty Hamson Cynthia N1ms

Web editor for Gourmet magazine Ms. Nims is a well-known Seatt le
from 2007 to 2009, Ms. Harrison food writer who has authored six
was also food editor and senior books of her own, including
editor at Plenty magazine. She the Northwest Homegrown
worked on Modernist Cuisine whi le Cookbook Series.
also pursuing a master in public
health (concentration in nutrition}
and a registered dietitian li cense at
New York University.
Greg Huang lorr Pau sor

Form erl y a features edito r at New For nearly 25 years, Mr. Paulson
Scientist magazine and sen ior covered sc ience for the Seattle
writer for Technology Review, Dr. Post-lntelligencer, and he was the
Hu ang is an editor atXconamy. He paper's senior science reporter
has a Ph.D. in electrical engin eer- when it closed in 2009.
ing and computer science from the
Massachusetts Institute of
Technology.
leah Kauffman Carol Reed

Ms. Kauffman is a freelance A copy ed itor at magazines such as
science writer in Pittsburgh who Business Week and book publishers
frequent ly writes for universities such as HarperCollins, Ms. Reed
and nonprofit organizations. was the copy chief at HomeStyle
magazine. For nearly 15 yea rs, she
was an Athens-based correspon-
dent for major news media. A
former professional chef, she
stud ied at the French Culinary
In stitute in New York.
Rebecca Kennedy David Schne1der

Ms . Kennedy holds a master of Currently a sen ior edito r at IEEE
library science from Indi ana Spectrum magazine, Dr. Schneider
University and was a reference has also worked as an editor at
librarian for the Chicago Public American Scientist and Scientific
Library, where one of her responsi- American magazines. His doctoral
bilities was se lecting materials on degree, from Columbia University,
cooking and food. is in geophysics. Dr. Schneider
assisted with analysis of research
data as we ll as writing and edit ing.
XLVIII VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

Aaron Shattuck Robert l. Wolke
Mr. Shattuck is a copy ed itor, A professor emeritus of nucl ear
editor, writer, fact checker, and che mistry at the University of
cartoon ist based in New York City. Pittsburgh, Dr. Wolke is author of
He has worked at Scientific a chem istry textbook and four
American, Scientific American Mind, popul ar sc ience books, including
Science Illustrated, Papular Science, What Einstein Told His Cook. For
and IEEE Spectrum. 10 years, Dr. Wolke wrote a james
Beard Jo urn alism Award-
winn ing column on kitchen
science for the Washington Post.
Susan Volland Deborah Patton and Other writers, editors, and

Trained as a chef, Ms. Vo lland is Alexandra Nickerson researchers
also a published cookbook author A freelance ind exer of books and A ngela Evans, Karen Hop kin ,
and novelist now wo rkin g as a journals sin ce 1994, Ms. Patton Barbara j atkola, Sujung Lim,
freelance writer, edito r, and worked wi th veteran indexer Ms. Ch ri sti na Miller, Rachel Tompa,
specia li st in original recipe Nickerso n to create the ind ex. Ms. Sarah Ri chard so n, Dani el McCoy
development. Nickerso n has ind exed many books
on food, including books by Shirley
Corrih er and Anne Willan, as well
as culinary science books by
Harold McGee and Robert Wolke.
PHOTOGRAPHY, DESIGN, LAYOUT, AND ILLUSTRATION
Mark Clemens
Mr. Cle mens has worked at Men 's journol, Popular Science, Women 's Wear
Daily, New York magaz ine, Ladies' Hom e journal, Musician, and other
magazin es. He was the design direc tor at Scientific American magazine from
1999 until2009, w hen he joined Intell ectual Ventures as art director. Mr.
Cleme ns developed the design, typography, and style for the volumes and
oversaw all aspects of information graph ics, layout, and production.
Melissa lehuta
Before joining Intell ect ual
Ventures, Ms. Leh uta studied food
and product photography at
Th e Art Institute of Seatt le, where
she rece ived a Bes t in Portfolio
awa rd in 2008. Ms. Lehuta was
o ne of th e lead photo ed itors for
th e book .
Ann Chin jen Christiansen

An ed itorial and art ass istant at Art director of informational
Scientific American since 2008, gra phi cs at Scientific American,
Ms. Chin previously worked as Ms. Chri stianse n has worked as an
a co py ed itor an d repo rter in th e art director and des igner for
business news indu stry. She National Geographic and has
assis ted with photo research spec ialize d in deve loping scientific
and permissions management fo r illu strations for vario us magazines
the project. and textbooks.
XLIX
Ted Ellis Mike Vinton
Mr. Ellis is a sen ior machinist and Mr. Vinton heads the instrument
instrument maker at Intell ectua l shop at Intell ectual Ventures
Ventures Laboratory. He did Laboratory. He previously worked
disassembly, cutt in g, and reassem- on nuclear reactors, the tunneling
b ly of the culinary eq uipm ent machine used to dig the Ch unn el,
in the book's cutaway photos. and detectors for the Large
Hadron Co llid er in Switzerland.
He helped plan and manufacture
all the mechanical cutaways used
in the book.
Richard Hunt Ozgiir Y1ld1r1m

As managi ng productio n ed itor Dr. Yild1r1m created compute r
for Natu re Publishing Group, models of cooking phenomena
Mr. Hunt oversees typesetting for the book. He has a master's
of Scientific American magazine degree in food engin eerin g from
and other publications. He served Cornell University and a doctorate
as lead typesetter for this book. in chemica l engin eer in g from
Purdue University.
Janel Kiley Other designers, illustrators, microscopists, and machinists

A free lance designer based Ban; m Acar, Dav id Fierstein, johnny john son, Keith Kas not, Chris Love,
in Washington, D.C., Ms. Kiley Emma Mullen, Jeff Osborn, Mary Swab, George Retseck, j ennifer Sugden,
assisted with design, layout, Tami To lp a
and typesetting.
CULINARY RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

The chefs on our culin ary development team were instrumental in the
food photography. They co ndu cted experim ents, tested recipes from
othe r chefs, and helped create all the origina l rec ipes in these vo lum es,
wh ich reflect the ir d iverse backgrounds and distinctive expe ri ences.
Andrei Modoran Grant Lee Crilly

Originally edu cated in Bucharest Mr. Crill y practiced butchery at
in physics and optics, Dr. Modoran Bajon Jean Pierrie in Paris and
obtained an MBA and a Ph.D. in co mpl eted stages at L'Astrance and
ph ys ics from Th e Ohio State w ith Pi erre Herm e's team at
University before joining Intellec- Gregoire-Ferrandi. He worked as
tual Ventures in 2007 as an applied chefde cuisine at Busaba in Mumbai
mathematician . He assisted with and at M istral in Seatt le and served
co mputer mode ling and graphing as head development chef at
for the book. Delicious Planet in Seattle.
Samuel Velasco Sam Fahey-Burke

Owner and lead designer at SW Trained at the Cu li nary Institute of
lnfographics in New York, Samuel America, Mr. Fahey-Burke has held
Ve lasco has co ntributed illust ra- positions atT he Fat Duck in Bray,
tions to National Geographic, England, Coi in San Francisco, and
Scientific American, and other Fi ftyThree in Singapore.
science and techno logy pub li ca-
tions, as we ll as to th is book.
VOLUM E 5 PLATED-DIS H RECIPES

Christina Miller Anjana Shanker
Ms. Mi ll er stud ied bio logy and Ms. Shanker has a bache lor's
physiology at the University of degree from the University of
Washington . She experimented Madras, India, and graduated
on the physical and chemical with honors from Le Cordon Bleu
properties of food for the book. College of Cu linary Arts in Scotts-
She also helped summarize active dale, Arizona. Her culinary tra ining
research in food science. began at Mary Elaine's, Arizona,
and Lamperia, Seatt le.
Other culinary researchers JohnnyZhu

Grace Lowry, Kyle Bentley Mr. Zhu is a graduate of Reed
College and an alumnus of such
notable restaurants as jean-
Georges, Sp ice Market, and Alinea.
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT AND PROJECT MANAGEMENT

Daniel McCoy Bruce Harris
Before joining the editorial team Bruce Harris is a publishing
at Intellectual Ventures in 2007, consultant who previously worked
Daniel McCoy was a neuroimaging as a publisher for Random House,
research associate for the Univ- Crown, and Workman Books.
ersity of California, San Francisco. Mr. Harris has pub lished ma ny
He managed a variety of daily cookbooks including Larousse
operations related to the book in Costronomique and Martha
addition to contributing research Stewart's Entertaining, and he is
and writing. helping to market and distribute
Modernist Cuisine around the world.
Carrie Bachman Mark Pearson

A cookbook and lifestyle pub licist The founding publisher of Pear
for almost 20 years, Ms. Bachman Press, Mr. Pearson got his start
worked for HarperColl ins as in publishing by creating the
director of cookbook and lifestyle Europefrom o Backpack series
pub licity before open ing her own of trave l books. The latest book,
agency. Ms. Bachman's clients john Medina 's Brain Rules: 72
include noted chefs and cookbook Principles for Surviving and Thriving
authors Ina Garten, Mario Bata li, ot Work, Home, and School, is
Emeril Lagasse, Rachael Ray, Al ice a New York Times best se ll er.
Waters, and Ju li a Ch il d.
ll
EXPERT REVIEWERS
Ferran Adria Eric Dickinson Donald Mottram Cesar Vega
(see page 133) Professor of food co ll oids at the Dr. Mottram is a professor of food A food appl ications scientist at
After beginning as a dishwasher Un iversity of Leeds, England, chemistry at the University of Mars, In c., Mr. Vega is an expert
in 1980, Mr. Adria rose rap idly Dr. Dickinson worked in severa l Leeds, Engla nd, and is a recog- in dai ry science, particularly ice
through the ranks to become postdoctoral placements after nized leader in flavor research. cream and sp ray-dried milk
a world leade r in Modernist comp let in g his studi es at the His research focuses on the products. He is coauthor of
cu isine. He is head chef at eiBulli University of Sheffie ld . He has biochem istry of flavor formation, "Molecu lar gastronomy: A food fad
in Roses, Spain, where his cu lin ary authored seve ral books, including the Mail lard reaction, the chemis- or science supporting inn ovative
experim ents enthra ll diners from An Introduction to Food Colloids. try of meat flavor, and components cuisine? " and editor-in-chief of
all over the world nightly. Dr. Dickinson 's research interests of taste in fruits and vegetab les . The Kitchen as a Laboratory: Science
include dairy proteins, rheology, He made important contributions Reflections Inspired by the Kitchen.
and protein-polysaccharide to the understanding of acry lam-
complexes. ide formation in heated foods.
Heston Blumenthal Wylie Dufresne Joan Roca David Julian McCiements

(see page 149) Trained at the French Culinary Born in Girona, Spai n, Mr. Roca A professor of food science at
Owner and chef ofThe Fat Duck In stitute in New York, Mr. Dufresne was trained at the Escoto the University of Massachusetts,
in Bray, England, Mr. Blumenthal started wd- 50 in Manhattan with d 'Hoste/eria de Girona, and since Dr. McCiements has published
made his name by tak ing an chef j ean-Geo rges Vongerichten 1986 with his two brothers has run more than 350 papers and written
ana lytica l approach to kitchen and restaurateur Phil Suarez. their restaurant El Ce ll er de Can or edited seven books on food
chem istry. Having published four Nominated for multiple james Roca, recently recogn ized with biopolymers and co ll oids . He has
books, including The Big Fat Duck Beard Awards, wd- 50 was given a third Michelin star. All three received awards for his research
Cook Book, he is a proponent of three stars by The New York Times, brothers received Best Chef, Best from the American Chemical
slow, low-temperature cook ing and in 2006 it received one Pastry Chef, and Best Sommelier Society, Institute of Food
and is known for expe rim ental Michelin star. Restaurant Magazine awards from the Academia Technologists, and American
signature dishes like Bacon and included wd - 50 on its Fifty Best Espano la Nacional de Chemica l Society.
Egg Ice Cream. Restaurants lists in 2005 and 2010. Gastronomia.
Kyle Connaughton james Hoffman Ted Russin

A graduate of the Ca lifornia School The director and co-owner An app li cations food scientist at
of Cu lin ary Arts, Mr. Connaughton of Square Mile Coffee Roasters CP Kelco in San Diego, Dr. Russin
has worked in prest igious Los and Penny University Cafe in holds degrees in philosophy, food
Angeles restau rants such as London, james Hoffman was the science, and food chemistry. As
Campanile and The Water Gril l, as U.K . Barista Champion in 2006 a consultant on hydrocoll oids, he
we ll as in Japan with Michel Bras and 2007 and the World Barista has worked with many influential
and others. Mr. Connaughton was Champion in 2007. chefs including Thomas Ke ll er,
head of development at Th e Fat Corey Lee, Adrian Vasquez, and
Duck and now teaches at the Wy li e Dufresne.
Cu lin ary Inst itute of America, in
Ca li fornia.
Srinivasan Damodaran Harold McGee Jeffrey Steingarten

With a Ph.D. in food chemistry (see page 1-43) (see page 1-65)
from Cornel l University, Dr. Dr. McGee is the author of On Food Leading food critic at Vogue
Damodaran has published and Cooking, a bestselling book on magazine since 1989 and the
extensive ly on protein-based the science of cooking that was recipient of many james Beard
polymers and enzymatic protein- named best food reference of Awards, Mr. Ste in garten has
based mod ifi ers. He is current ly 2004 by the j ames Beard Founda- pub lished in The New York Times
a Winters-Bascom professor of tion and the International Associa- and Slate magazine. He is the
food chem istry at the Un iversity tion of Cu lin ary Profess iona ls. Mr. author of the books The Man Who
of Wisconsin. McGee has written for Nature, Ate Everything and It Must've Been
Physics Today, Food & Wine, and Something I Ate.
Fine Cooking. He writes a monthly
column, "The Curious Cook," for
The New York Times.
lll VOLUME 5 PLATED - DISH RECIPES

ACKNOWLED GMENTS
The authors would like to acknowledge the generous contributions of the many companies
Individuals Providing
and individuals who supported the three-year effort to create this book. In addition to those
Other Valuable Assistance
mentioned in the contributors section above, we benefited from the expertise, advice, mate-
rial support, and valuable assistance of the people and companies listed here. Of course, any ~o ple below helped in a variety I
errors that remain in the final product are the responsibility of the authors alone. of ways to complete the book.
EricBahn ~
Individuals Providing Companies Providing Mark Barnett ~
Expertise and Advice Equipment and Supplies David Burton
We benefited greatly from the I Materials support in the research~ leo Chou
technical experience and business or photography involved in the creation Dan a Cree
creative counsel of these people. of the book were graciously provided james Currier
Shelby Barnes ~
Linda Bellekom-AIIen
-by these firms.
----
AccuTe mp
Robert Da rrington
------ Ceo ffD eane

Francois Benzi t ----
Com ni
Sarahja n e Hoope
Eades Appliance Technology
Anthony Blake - - - - ---'-'---- Eric] oh anson
John Bove __] Gene vac
Monsoon re staurant
Shie n g Liu
jean-Paul Carmona
Chri love
PolySci ence
janet Carver
Jeff M ahin
David Chang
::....___ RedAr row
Brian Mc Cracken
,_____ Synes so
Pamela Chirls --- - Don M oore
Victro Ia
Kim Christiansen
Natha n Pegram
Winston In dustries
Ron Crawford
Sandy Sc hneiter
Daniel Halpern
Tracy Sm aciarz
Amy Hatch -
Kathlee n Starks
--
Gary Hawkey
DanaT ough
Perry Hook
KennyWalpole
David Kinch
lanWh itehall
jack Knight
Chuck lambert
David ledward
Claudia leschuck
Ed Marquand
Jon McWhirter
Daniel Patterson
Stephanie Pretesacque
-----
Howard Swatland
Herve This
Adrian Villarreal
julian Vincent
-----
Carrie Wicks
Art Wolfe
llll
Colophon
This first edition of
Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking
was printed by Shenzhen Art ron Color Printing Co., Ltd. of Shenzhen, China.
Prepress by iocolor, LLC of Seattle, Washington.
Design by Modernist Cuisine, LLC of Bellevue, Washington.
Published by The Cooking Lab, LLC of Bellevue, Washington.
http:// modernistcuisine.com
Printed using stochastic color separation and Chroma Centric inks

on Oji matte art paper. Typefaces used include Arno Pro,
Optima Nova, Whitney, and Square 721.
LI V
RIC RECIPE TABLES
Best Bets for
Stocks ........................... .... ..... ....... ....... .... ..... ........................ 2296-297 Thickening with Natural Starch .............................................. .... ..4.28
Stock Aromatics .................... ........................................................ 2298 Thickening with Modified Starch .... .............................................. 430
Broths .... .................................................. ............ ................. 2304-305 Thickening Cold Liquids .............................................................. .4-46
Infused Liquids ............................................................................. 2310 Thickening Hot Liquids ................... ............................................. A-47
Lowering pH ................................................................................. 2314 Making Milks and Creams ............................................................ .456
Adding Flavor with Alcohol... ...................................................... 2317 Edible Films .................. .................................................................. 460
Using Essences and Extracts in Cooking .................................... 2325 Cooking Whole Eggs .................................................................. .... 4 78
Extracts .......................................................................................... 2326 Pickled and Preserved Eggs .......................................................... .482
Infused Fats ..................... ..... .... ........... ........ ........ ....................... ... 2329 Separated Egg Gels ......................................................................... 485
Jus ...................... ................................................................... 2344-345 Blended Egg Gels ........................................................ .................... 492
Consomme ........................... .... ........... ............ ..................... 2374-375 Smoking Dairy and Eggs ............................................................. .4100
Vegetable and Fruit Purees ................................ .... ....... ................ 2425 Protein Curds ............... .... .......................................................... ... 41 04
Freeze-Drying ............................................................................... 2-451 Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) .................................... .4116
Tartares ............................................................................................ 363 Cold Gels .............................................................................. 4140-141
Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide ................................................. 396 Firm Coating Gels ....................................................................... .4151
Cooking Tender Red Poultry So us Vide ..................................... .. 399 Hot Gels .............................................. ......................................... .4160
Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide ................................... 399 Hot Fruit Gels .............................................................................. .4165
Cooking Fish Sous Vide ............................................................... 3102 Methylcellulose Gels ................................................................... .4171
Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide ........................................... 3103 Fluid Gels ..................................................................................... .4177
Cooking Tough Poultry ................................................................ 3108 Spherification ......................... ............................ .......................... .4187
Cooking Tough Shellfish ................................... ........................... 3108 Constructed Cheeses .................................................................... 4223
Cooking Tough Cuts .................................................................... 3109 Airs, Bubbles, and Froths ...................... ...................................... .4264
Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide .................................................. 3146 Light Foams ..................... ............................................................. .4270
Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide .................................... 3146 Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ............................................... 4278-279
Brines ............................................................................................. 3168 Set Foams ............................................................................. 4288-289
Wet Cures ................................................. ................ ..................... 3169 Puffed Snacks ................................................................................ 4302
Dry Rubs .... ................................................................................... 3169
Brining ........................................................................................... 3172
Curing ............................................................................................ 3172
,..,RA,.., .GIES TABLES
Smoking Meats and Seafood ........................................................ 3210 Cooking in CVap Ovens and Combi Ovens ............ .......... 2170-171
Burgers ........................................................................................... 3234 Using a Microwave Oven .......................... ................................... 2185
Coarse-Ground Sausages .................................................... 3236-237 So us Vide Cooking Strategies ............................................. 2204-205
Emulsion-Style Sausages ..................................................... 3238-239 Water Bath Strategies for Cooking So us Vide ......................... .... 2244
Fermented Sausages ................................................. ............ 3244-245 Cooling Sous Vide ............................. ........................................... 2.255
Gas-Ripened Fruit ..... ................... ........... ....................... .. ............ 3285 Freezing So us Vide ..... .................................................................. 2259
Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender. ..................................... 3288 Thawing Sous Vide ....................................................................... 2263
Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide Until Tender .............................. 3289 Searing After Sous Vide ....................................................... 2270-275
Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Purees ................... 3290 Juicing ....................................................................... ........... 2336-337
Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender .... ........ 3291 Thickening Sauces, Jus, and Glazes .................. ........................... 2346
Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender ............... 3292 Filtering Liquids and Clarifying Consommes ........................... 2352
Warming Vegetables So us Vide .................................................... 3292 Concentrating ............................................................................... 2379
Blanching Sous Vide ..................................................................... 3293 Grinding, Milling, and Pureeing .......................... ....................... 2-400
Potato Purees ................ ................................................................ 3297 Drying ......................... ....................... ........................................... 2430
Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods .................................................... 3300 Cooking with Liquid Nitrogen .................................................... 2459
Risotto .......................................................................... ................. 3305 Rendering Fats .......................................... .................................... 3145
Microwaving Vegetables ......................... ...................................... 3311 Marinating ..................................................................................... 3192
Naked Frying.......... ............................................ ......... .................. 3320 Making Emulsions ...... .............. ........................................... 4208-209
Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips .................................................. 3328 Creating Foams .................................................................... 4258-260
Batters ............................................................................................ 3333
Preservation .. ......... .......... .................................... ........... ..... ......... 3348
Heat-Treated Fruit ....................................... ................................. 3359
Smoked Plant Foods ..................... ....... ............ ........ ..................... 3362
Dehydration .......................... ........................................................ 3366
Freeze-Drying Plant Foods .......................................................... 3372
Pasta Doughs ................................................................................. 3381
Compressing or Impregnating Produce ...................................... 3390 Page references oft he form 4381 refer to volume 4, page 381
INDEX LV
STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURES
HOW TO
Wash Your Hands Properly ................................................. 1198-199 Fillet a Flatfish ............................................... ... .............................. 357
Read the Phase Diagram ofWater ............................. ......... 1-302-303 Prepare Abalone ....................................................................... 3-58-59
Make Exceptional Ice Cream with Liquid Nitrogen .................. 1311 Slice Fish for Nigiri-zushi. ................................................. ............. 3-60
Supercool Water ........................................................... ................. 1312 Flash-Cook Sushi with Hot Oil, a Torch, or a Broiler .................. 361
Measure Relative Humidity ......................................................... 1-322 Cryoshatter for Tartare ....... ............................... ................ ............. 3-64
Read a Psychrometric Chart ........................................................ 1323 Precook Duck Skin ......................................................................... 3-82
Find the Sweet Spot.. ............................................................... 2-16-17 Cook the Perfect Hamburger So us Vide ....................................... 386
Calculate the Sweet Zone of Your Broiler .............................. 2-22-23 Pressure-Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ............................ 3114
Make Your Electric Broiler Perform Cryosear a Duck Breast ....................................................... 3-124-125
Like a Wood-Fired Oven .............................. ........................... 2-26-27 Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast ............................................. 3125-126
Season a Wok or Frying Pan ........................................................... 2-53 Cook Crispy Fish Skin and Make Fish Skin Pillows ......... 3-130-131
Pack Food in Canning Jars ........................... .................................. 2-78 Brine or Wet-Cure Meat: Equilibrium Method ................. 3-170-171
Sterilize Acidic Canned Foods in Boiling Water .......................... 2-81 Speed Brine or Wet-Cure by Injection or Vacuum ...... .. .... 3174-175
Use a Pressure Canner .................................................................... 2-89 Vacuum Tumble ............................................................................ 3-175
Braise or Pot-Roast Meat. ................................................. .............. 2-99 Pressure Marinate ......................................................................... 3-207
Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ............................ 2-174-175 Pack and Light Your Smoke Gun ................................................. 3214
Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven ..................................... 2-178-179 Grind Meat and Fat ...................................................................... 3-228
Vacuum Pack Food with a Chamber Sealer ....................... 2-218-221 Form and Finish a Sausage .................................................. 3-240-241
Vacuum Pack Food with an Edge Sealer ..................................... 2-224 Ferment Sous Vide ....................................................................... 3245
Cook in a Bath Set to Final Temperature .................................... 2246 Choose and Use Activa ....................................................... 3254-256
Cook in a Bath Set Hotter Than Final Temperature .................. 2-246 Rejoin Seam-Boned Cuts ................................ ............................. 3-255
Cook in Multiple Baths ....................................................... 2-248-249 Make a Leaner Rack of Lamb ...................................................... 3255
Freeze Food in a Salty Brine ........................................................ 2-260 Bond with the Slurry Method ...................................................... 3-256
Pressure-Cook Stock ................................. ................................... 2293 Reconstruct a Whole Fish ................ ............... ........... ...... ............ 3256
Make Stocks: Basic, White, Shellfish, or Rich Brown ................ 2297 Ripen on Command ........................................................ ............. 3285
Make Stock So us Vide .................................................................. 2302 Blanch Sous Vide .......................................................................... 3293
Wash Citrus Oil ............................................................................ 2-321 Make the Ultimate French Fry .................................................... 3-322
Extract Juice from Plants with Pectinase ......................... ........... 2-336 Measure Thickeners ....................................................................... 4-23
Extract Juice by Osmosis or Freezing ................................. 2336, 33 7 Disperse a Thickener ............................................................... 4-24-25
Keep Fresh-SqueezedJuice Fresh ................................................ 2339 Hydrate a Thickener ...................................................................... .4-26
Clarify Juice with a Buon Vi no Pressure Filter ................ ........... 2355 Peel an Egg with Liquid Nitrogen ................................................ .4 78
Vacuum Filter ................................................................................ 235 7 Make a Perfect Soft-Boiled Egg .................................................... .479
Balance a Centrifuge ....................... .............................................. 2363 Use Ion-Coagulating Gels .. .............................. .... ........................ 4-129
Separate Liquids by Centrifuging ................................................ 2364 Use a Sequestrant.. ....................................................................... .4129
Separate Fresh Butterfat from Cream .......................................... 2-366 Cast Gels .... ................................................................................... 4132
Filter with Gelatin Ice ......................................................... 2-370-371 Mold Gels and Suspend Solids in Gels ..................................... ..4133
Clarify Liquids with Agar ................................................... 2-372-373 Cast Thick Gel Sheets and Make Gel "Linguine" ...................... .4134
Reduce Juice in a Vacuum ............................................................ 2-381 Mold and Freeze Gel Spheres ..................................................... .4135
Distill with a Rotavap ................................................................... 2388 Make Firm Gel Beads and Droplets ........................... .. ...... 4-136-137
Freeze Concentrate ....................................................................... 2397 Extrude Gel Noodles ........................................................... 4138-139
Mill a Creamy Nut Butter .................................................... 2-418-419 Quick-Set a Fluid Gel and Make a Coarse Fluid Gel ................ .41 79
Use a Spray Dryer ............................ ............................................. 2442 Suspend a Solid in a Gelled Sphere ............................................ .4-187
Cryopoach in Liquid Nitrogen or Oil ......................................... 2-460 Create Reverse Spherification .................. ................... ............... .4187
Cryograte and Cryopowder ......................................................... 2-461 Make Clarified and Brown Butter ........ ...................................... .4-213
Disassemble Fruit with Liquid Nitrogen .................................... 2-462 Make Edible Prune Coals .................................................... 4-314-315
Cryoshape and Cryoshatter ......................................................... 2-463 Set Up a Triangle Test ................................................................. .4-336
Carbonate a Liquid ....................................................................... 2468 Hyperdecant Wine ............................................................. ........... 4343
Carbonate Fruit ............................................................................ 2-469 Taste Coffee Like a Pro ............................................................... .4-365
Preserve the Freshness ofTruffles ...................................... 2470-471 Use a Brewing Control Chart ............................................. 4-366-367
Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ...................................................... 24 72 Grind Beans for Espresso ............................................................ .4377
Kill Fish with the Ike Jime Method ................................................ 3-38 Groom a Portafilter ............ .... ..................................................... .4381
Dry-Age Meat .................................................................................. 342 Tamp Evenly .................................................................................. 4382
Seam-Cut a Lamb Leg .................................................................... 3-46 Pull an Espresso Shot .......................................................... 4-386-387
Dissect a Pork Shoulder .......................................................... 3-48-49 Steam Milk ....... ............................................................................ .4390
Block Tuna ................ ........ ....... ..................... .................. ......... 354-55 Make Latte Art ................ ....................... .............................. 4-394-395
Prepare Tender Squid ..................................................................... 3-56 Clean an Espresso Machine ........................................................ .4-397
LVI INDEX
AG ING A
INDEX
A
acorn squash, cooking sous vide, Adria, Ferran (co11tinued) Aduriz, Andoni Luis (cor~tinued)
parametric recipe for, 3289 hired at e!Bulli, 133-34 Monkfish with Constructed Skin
acrolein, in reused deep-frying oil, homemade sodas by, 4239 recipe, 3132
2124, 125 hot and cold pea soup of, 4 176 Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito
A&P grocery stores, innovations of, 1-21 acrylamide Hot Apricot Marshmallow recipe, Stock Veil recipe, 4 168
abalones as Maillard reaction product, 1220 4 293 Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4173
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu in reused deep-frying oil, 2125 Hot Butter Foam recipe, 4283 Vegetable Coals recipe, 3375
with Yuba and Enoki, 5197, 203 actin, in muscle, 36 Hot Egg Mayonnaise recipe, 4227 Watermelon Meat recipe, 3394
biology of, 326, 27 Activa, 3250-256 innovations of, 15, 36 Aerated Chocolate, 4313
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe characteristics of, 3 250-252 intellectually motivated cuisine of, Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 4312
for, 3108 choosing and using, how to, 152 Aerated Foie Gras, 4311
Japanese cutting of, 352 3254-256 liquid nitrogen and, 162, 64, 65 Aerated Gruyere, 4312
preparing, how to, 358-59 for fish skin pillows, 3131 Liquid Pimento Olive recipe, 4193 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4311
absolutes, from concretes or oleoresins, forms of, 3252, 253 McGee on experiments by, 1-46 aerating wands, 4391. See also handheld
2320 gelling with, best bets for, 4 116-117 Melon Caviar recipe, 4189 whipping wands; steam wands
absorption meat purees and, 3233 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake aeration, vacuum-assisted, 2214
by graybodies, 1286 molding sausage with, 3241 recipe, 4294 Aero candy, 4 254, 312
of radiation, 1285 production process for, 1257 on misleading appearance of aerobic bacteria, 1130, 135-136
Abu !-Hasan "Ali Ibn Nafi," 110 properties and uses of, 3253 creations, 5 60 vacuum packing and, 2208
AccuSteam Griddle, 241, 158 reattaching cooked skin to meat Modernist cuisine and, 157 aerobic endurance, slow-twitch muscle
acetaldehyde, citrus flavor and, 5149 with,3 122 Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres fibers and, 314, 22-23
acetic acid. See vinegar rejoining seam-boned cuts with, recipe, 4191 aerogels, history of, 472
Achatz, Grant 3255 Ossa Bucca Milanese recipe, Aerolatte milk frother, foam forming
Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, as sausage binder, 3223 560- 65 with, 4258, 260
Apple, and Thyme recipe, 3189 slurry method of applying, 3256 Oysters with Mignonette Air recipe, AeroPress coffee brewer, 4 370
Bacon Powder Squares recipe, 4 -34 Activia (probiotic yogurt), 3252 4 265 Africa, ingredients imported to, 115
biography of, 168 additives. See also preservatives pacotized powders by, 2407 agar
on copying dishes, 171 to centrifuged liquids, 2 368 Parmesan Nuggets recipe, 435 clarifying liquids with, 2 372-373
critics on, 1-63 fresh juice taste and color and, 2338, on potato purees, 3296 for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
on dehydrating fruits and vegetables, 339 on quail eggs, cooking whole, 475 4140
3366 popular perception of, 1250 Shellfish Custard recipe, 4162 for edible films, parametric recipe
Eggs Benedict recipe, 486 public scandals involving, 1252-254 Soy Sauce Cloud recipe, 4299 for, 460
on elBulli meal, 138-39 adhesives, for breading, 3338 on spherification, 4 184 as emulsion stabilizer, 4215
Modernist cuisine and, 1-52, 62, 67 Adler, Alan, 4370 spherification developed by, 5256 filtration with, 2352
Mozzarella Balloons recipe, adrenaline, slaughterhouse practices spherified olives of, 4 126 for fluid gels, 4176
4110-111 and, 334 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto parametric recipe for, 4 177
Pineapple Glass recipe, 3370 Adria, Albert, 135, 2369, 4 37 recipe, 3397 as foam stabilizer, 4257
Shrimp Cocktail recipe, 3107 Adria, Ferran Steingarten on, 165 French chefs' use of, 4128
Steingarten on, 1-65 Achatz's meals at e!Bulli and, 138- 39 Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 4173 fruit juice gels and, 3195
Trotter and, 169 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4 37 on technoemotional cuisine, 157 gel filtration with, 2369
Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel recipe, Agar Carbonara recipe, 4161 Thickened Oil recipe, 4 230 as gelling agent, 468
4 183 Beet Meringue recipe, 4295 Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder recipe, Black Olive Puree recipe, 4 230 recipe, 4143 for, 4165
435 Black Sesame Rice Crisps recipe, worldwide fame of, 138-40 for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
acidifiers 4304 adsorption, 2138, 413 4 160
buffering and, 2315 Blood Orange Foam recipe, 4272 Aduriz, Andoni Luis interactions with other thickeners,
example recipes for, 2315 books by, 135-36, 59 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4 37 4-44-45
parametric recipe for, 2314-315 Cappuccino Foam recipe, 4266 C lay Potatoes recipe, 3398 for light foams, parametric recipe
acidity of food . See also pH as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1258 compression and, 5285 for, 4270
boiling-water sterilization of canned Cauliflower Couscous of, 3388 Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles natural sources for, 1253
foods and, 281 Corn Foam recipe, 4273 recipe, 4267 product guide for, 41I-III
canning method and, 276 creativity of, 171 foams and, 4 264 properties and uses of, 4 42-43
pressure-canning and, 2-85-91 Crimini in Amber recipe, 4154 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice for thick foams, parametric recipe
USDA canning guidelines and, critics on, 162, 63 and Sea Lettuce recipe, 3149 for, 4278-279
279-80 on dining as dialogue, 137-38 Fossilized Salsify Branch recipe, thickening sauces, jus, or glazes
acids or acidic compounds. See also pH; fast hot-spring quail eggs and, 478 3399 with,2346
specific compounds foams and, 4 264, 281 Green Pea Pods with Citrus Infusion Agar Ca rbonara, 4161
as acidifiers, 2314-315 foams pioneered by, 136, 4244- and Walnut Oil recipe, 4 171 Aged Rare Beef] us, 55, 6
for marinating, 3 190, 192-193 245, 254, 255 on hepatic steatosis and foie gras, aging
pH and, 3194 Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam recipe, 3-139 of coffee beans, 4358
plant food cooking and, 3 276, 278 4300 ldiazabal Gnocchi recipe, 4123 of Dover sole for sole meunihe, 340
protein gell ing and, 470 future of, 135 "Into the Vegetable Garden" and, of meats
acidulants, thickening with, 413 Ham Consomme with Melon Beads 3294 enzymes and, 339, 41, 78
recipe, 448 Modernist cuisine and, 157
INDEX LVII
A AGING
aging (continued) alcohol (ethanol) (continued) anaerobic bacteria apple cider/apple juice (continued)
holding at specific temperature vacuum pressure vs. boiling point of, canning and, 1136, 138, 148 Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and
and, 2-247-248 2391 characteristics of, 1130 Cabbage Juice, 2-389
sous vide technique of, 2-250 alcohols, as by-products of ethanol curing salts and, 2 -143 apples
of wine distillation, 2 -384 facultative, 1136, 138 Bacon Chips with Butterscotch,
screw tops for wine bottles and, alcohol sanitizers, 1-200 pasteurizing and, 2-249-250 Apple, and Thyme, 3-189
4-344 alcoholic fermentation, 3-346 refrigeration and, 2-257 Compressed Green Apple, S-211, 212
storage conditions for, 4345-348 Alexander, Alexander, 440 sous vide cooking and, 2206-207 compressing, parametric recipe for,
agricultural science, food science and, Alexander the Great, 1-12 toxin production by, 1-135-136, 141 3-390
1-48 alginate. See also propylene glycol vacuum packing and, 2-209 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
agriculture, early civilization and alginatej sodium alginate anaerobic endurance, fast-twitch muscle for, 3-288, 290, 291
development of, 1-6-7 fat incorporation into sausage with, fibers and, 3-14, 22-23 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3 -393
AGS (Anderson, Greenville, 3-225 analytical scales, 423 dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
Spartanburg) vacuum packing system, interactions with other thickeners, anaphylaxis, food allergies and, 3-366
1-40- 41 4 -44-45 1238-239 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
air. See also drying; relative humidity as ion-based coagulant, 4124, 127, anchovies 3372
ambient, for thawing, 2-263 129 Bagna Cauda Consomme, S-229, 230 Hot Applesauce Terrine, S-101, 103
in carbon dioxide containers, 2 -464 natural sources for, 1253 Caesar Salad, 3-373 Hot Green Apple Gel, 4 -166
as foaming gas, 4254 production process for, 1-257 Andalusia, Spain, Islamic courts and impregnating, parametric recipe for,
in ovens, heat conduction by, 2102 properties and uses of, 4 -42- 43 gastronomy of, 1-10 3-390
pressurecanning and, physics of, as sausage binder, 3-223 Anderson, Greenville, Spartanburg Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,
2-87 spherification usi ng, 4 -184 (AGS) vacuum packing system, 4-276
warm, drying with, 2-431-433 thickening with, parametric recipe 1-40-41 preserving, parametric recipe for,
water _vapor in, 1-319-321, 325 for, 4-46, 47 Anderson, Scott, Crispy Sweetbreads 3348
L'Air du Temps, 1-70 uses of, surprising, 4127 recipe, 3150 puree of, para metric recipe for, 2-425
air pockets, sausage stuffing and, 3227, Aligote wine, 4 -327 Ando, Momofuku, Chi kin Ramen and Salted Caramel Apple Puree, S-17, 20
230 A linea, 1-67, 68. See also Achatz, Grant Space Ramen created by, S-247, 248 smoking, parametric recipe for,
air pumps, aquarium alkali earth metals, 4126 Andres,Jose 3362
foam forming with, 4 -258, 260 alkaline marinades, 3-190, 194-195 Adria and, 136 applejack, freeze-concentrating hard
for sous vide cooking, 2-240-241 pH and, 3-194 Carbonated Mojito Spheres recipe, apple cider for, 2-396
airs alkaline ramen pasta, parametric recipe 4 -188 apricots
best bets for, 4-264 for, 3-381 critics on, 163 Apricot and Jasmine Puree, S-171,
example recipes for, 4-265 Alieno, Yannick, Venison Loin Rossini Modernist cuisine and, 1-62, 67 173
parametric recipe for, 4264 recipe, 398 Steingarten on, 1-65 compressing, parametric recipe for,
Ajinomoto Company, 1-213, 3-251 allergies, to foods, 1238-239 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato 3390
AI Sorriso, 1-28 almonds Chips recipe, 4-287 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
Alajmo, Max and Raf, 1-70 Almond Polenta, 4-36 androstenone, truftle smell and, 4 -35 0 for, 3-288, 291
albedo, of radiation, 1-285 bitter, cyanide aroma and, 3 -262 Angus cattle, 3-39 dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
albumin, as fining agent, 2-360 Garlic Nougatine, S-25, 29 animal fecal contamination, 11 16-117 3-366
albumin powder Marcona Almond Butter Paste, animal flesh, contamination by, 1117 Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4293
for bubbles, parametric recipe for, S-281, 282 anisakids, 1-122-123, 182, 190, 194 impregnating, parametric recipe for,
4-264 Toasted Almond Milk, 4-59 Anisakis simplex, 1122-123, 174 3390
for light foams, parametric recipe almond milk, parametric recipe for, Ankimo Torchon, 3147 preserving, parametric recipe for,
for, 4-270 4-56 an tifoaming agents, 4-244, 247, 257 3-348
for set foams, parametric recipe for, Almond Polenta, 436 antioxidants Aprile, Claudio, 1-70
4-288-289 Alsatian Munster Sausage, 535, 39 in herbs, aging braises and pot roasts aquarium air pumps and bubblers
for thick foams, parametric recipe altitude and, 2-98 foam forming with, 4258, 260
for, 4 -278-279 baking and, 2-113 in smoke, 2-143 for sous vide cooking, 2-240-241
alcohol (ethanol). See also spirits; specific boiling point and, 1318 AOC (Appellation d'Origine Arabica coffee beans, 4-358
alcoholic beverages aluminum cookware Controlee) system, for French wine Archaea, as domain on tree of life, 1130
in batters, 3-316 conduction in, 1-280 production, 4331, 332 L'Archestrate, S-109
coffee brewing in, 4 3 71 heat capacity of, 1278 Apicius, 1-10, 11- 12 Archestratos of Gel a, Sicily, 112
dissolving in water, 1-296 aluminum foil, in grills, 215 on bread crumbs as thickener, 4 12 architecture
distillation of, 2384, 390 !'Amador, 1-70 history of, 110 artistic and functional purposes of,
drying with, 2-430 Amador, Juan, 1-70 on reductions, 45, 11 1-76-77
extracting flavor with amebiasis, 1119, 129 seasonings described in, 111- 12 avant-garde, 1-17, 18
best bets for, 2-326 American Association ofWine Apicius, Marcus Gavius, 110 Arcigola, 1-23
example recipes for, 2-327 Economists, 4 -335 Appellation d'O rigine Controlee Aren6s, Pau, 1-37
fat washing using, 2-320, 321 American BBQplated-dish recipe, (AOC) system, for French wine argon gas, wine preservation with,
as foam inhibitor, 4-257 S-66-79 production, 4-331, 332 4 -347
gelatin gels with, 4-IV The American Cheese Slice, 4224 Appert, Nicholas, 2-75, 84 Arguinzoniz, Victor, smoked dairy
hydrogen bonds in water vs., 1-314 American Dietetic Association, 1215 apple chips, parametric recipe for, 3-328 products and, 4100
laws on production of, 1-94 American Heart Association, 1224 apple cider/apple juice. See also hard Aristophanes, 1-12
for marinating, 3195, 198 An American Place, 1-28, 29 apple cider Arnold, David
moisture absorbed by, 2-428 American Spice Trade Association, Apple Cider Consomme, 2 -377 on agar for clarifying liquids, 2-372
phase diagram of, 1-303 3-270 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3-393 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3206
as polar solvent, 1330 American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5-SS, 57 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil
seasoning with, 2317 Americana espresso, 4-393 4-169 recipe, 2367
separating water from, 2-384, 390 amino acids Oysters with Cava Foam, 4277 on Fizz-Giz system, 3-207
solubility in water of, 1-332 in freshly slaughtered meat, 3-34 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion freeze filtration and, 2-369
as solvent for tastant extraction, in shellfish, 3-27 and Water Chestnuts, 3101 French fries by, 3322
2-320 amylopectin, in starches, 420 Salted Caramel Apple Puree, S-17, 20 Parmesan "Polentan recipe, 4-181
vacuum packing and, 2-213, 214 amylose, in starches, 420
LV Ill INDEX
BACTERIA B
B
Arnold, David (continued) Asador Etxebarri, 4-100 autoclaves (continued)
Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, asafetida, seasoning with, 111 prions and, 1-156
3-324 ascariasis, 1-123 for sous vide cooking, 2-233, 239
Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, Ascaris lumbricoides, 1-123 sterilization using, 2250
4-97 ascorbic acid. See vitamin C venting before sealing, 2-291 Bacillus cereus
pressure-cooked stock testing by, ash, hardwood charcoal vs. briquettes Autumn Harvest Pork Roast plated- food poisoning from spores of, 1-138
2 -87 and, 2-12 dish recipe, 5-17-23 replication of
on unvented pressure-cookers for Ashenfelter, Orley, 4-328, 329 avant-garde art movements, 1-17 limits of, 1-145
stocks, 2-292 Asian cooking. See also China; Chinese avocados nisin and, 1-144- 145
Arola, Sergi, 1-57 entries; Japan; Japanese entries Avocado Puree, 5-205, 207 wine marinade with oregano and,
Arola Barcelona, 1-57 fusion and, 1-29 seed distribution by, 3-265 1-145
aromas. See also essences, aromatics Asian fish sauce, 3-195 Aztecs, gastronomy of, 113 bacon
Activa bonding and, 3-252 Asian palm civet, Kopi Luwak coffee Agar Carbonara, 4-161
of almonds, 3-262 and, 4 -360 Bacon Chip, 5-219,220
coffee roasting and, 4-361 Asian pear chips, parametric recipe for, Bacon Chips with Butterscotch,
concentrating by evaporation and, 3-328 Apple, and Thyme, 3189
2-380 Asian restaurants, MSG and, 1-213 Bacon Dashi, 2-308
of deep-frying oil, 2-123, 125 asparagus Bacon Jam, 4 -229
dry-aging meat and, 3-41 Asparagus Royale, 4-94 Bacon Powder Squares, 4-34
of fat in meat and seafood, 387-88 compressing, parametric recipe for, Braised Bacon, 5-17, 18
fat molecules and, 3-1 8 3-390 combi oven cooking of eggs and,
fining and removal of, 2 -360 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 2-174-175
oflutefisk, 3-194 for, 3289, 292 convection baking of, 2-110
Maillard reaction and, 3 -89 Green Asparagus and Morels with cooked, fats in, 1233
plant food cooking and, 3-278 Asparagus Jus, 2-341 Eggs Benedict, 4-86
ripening of cured meat or seafood impregnating, parametric recipe for, fat, fatty acids in, 1-234
and, 3-167, 173 3-390 infusion of, parametric recipe for,
rotary evaporators and, 2-384, 390 odor of urine and, 4350 2-310
of saturated vs. unsaturated oils, puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
2-126 smoking, parametric recipe for, 4 -275
of truffles, science of, 4 -350 3-362 Siphoned Souffle aIa Lorraine, 4-297
of vegetables, blanching sous vide Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5-147, Spaghetti Carbonara, 3-384
and, 3-293 149 USDA on nitrates and nitrites in,
of wine, 4 -348-349 Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5-147, 3-160
aroma kit, technology of, 4-348 149 bacon consomme, parametric recipe for,
Aroma: The Magic of Essential Oils in aspics, gelatin for, 4-67 2-374-375
Foods and Fragrance (Patterson), 2-322 aspirator vacuum system. See also rotary bacteria, 1-130-151. See also specific
Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5-35, 37 evaporators bacteria
aromatics for concentrating flavor, 2 -380, aerobic, 1-130, 135-136
converting grams to volumes for, 382-383 vacuum packing and, 2-208
5-XXXVIII filtering with, 2-356 agar as growing medium for, 4128
Maillard reaction and, 2-268 for Modernist kitchen, 2-284 anaerobic. See anaerobic bacteria
seasonal melanges with, 3-295 astaxanthin, in salmon and trout, 393 categories of, 1-130
for stocks, 2-298 L'Astrance, 1-64 characteristics of, 1130, 132-133
sublimation in frozen foods of, 2-26! Astronaut Ramen plated-dish recipe, chilling food and, 2-254, 257
Aronia de Takazawa, 1-70 5-247-251 cooking cured meat or seafood and,
arrowroot, thickening with, parametric astrovirus infections, 1155 3-165
recipe for, 4 -28 Athenaeus, 1-12 death of, 1-148-151
art, revolution in, 116-18 Atkins diet, 1-242 pasteurization and sterilization for,
Ll\rt de Ia Cuisine Franfaise aux XJXt atmospheric pressure 1-149
Siecle (Careme, 1833- 1834), 1-9, 19 boiling point and, 1-318 thermal death curves of, 1-150-151
The Art of Cooking (Apicius). See Apicius gauge pressure of pressure canners as foodborne pathogens, 1-108, 113,
artichokes and, 2-86-87 135-141
Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3-313 solubility of gases in water and, 1-333 Gram-positive or Gram-negative,
Artichoke Confit, 5-171, 172 Au Cacao (Lord Chocolate), Mayan 1-106
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe city-state ofTikal, 1-13 growth of, 1-142-147
for, 3-292 Auber Instruments, PID controllers of, chemicals as preservat ives and,
puree of, parametric recipe for, 2425 2-240 1-144-145
Sous Vide Artichoke, 5239, 244 Australia on dry-aging meat, 3-41
artificial flavors, popular perception of, Eating Quality Assured system in, limits of, 1-145
1-250,252 339 measuring, terminology of, 1-142
artificial meat, 3220. See also sausages screw tops for wine bottles in, modeling, mathematics of, 1-147
artificial sweeteners, organic label for, 4-344-345 infectious, invasive, 1-134-135
1-247 wine innovation in, 4-331, 332 marinating with, 3198
Arup, 4-246 authentic recipes, Modernist focus on off-flavors and taints due to, 1-135
Arzak (restaurant), 2-450 novelty vs., 1-58-60 quorum sensing, 1-134
Arzak,Juan Mari Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3-302 spoilage and, 1-133-134
Egg Blossom recipe, 4-78, 80 autoclaves spores of, 1-136, 138-141
Nouvelle cuisine and individuality browning starch for roux with, 422 stains for identification of, 1-106
of, 1-28 for extracting and infusing flavors, strains of
Strawberry Milk Shake recipe, 2-473 2-251 naming of, 1-132
Arzak egg blossom, parametric recipe for Modernist kitchen, 2-284 plasmids and, 1-133
for cooking, 4-78 for plant food cooking, 3298 subspecies classification of, 1-132
INDEX LIX
B BACTOFERM CULTURES
Bactoferm cultures, for fermented barbecue beans. See also specific types of beans beef (continued)
sausage, 3-246 American-style, 2-143, 148,3-211, flours milled from, 3-376 tapeworms and, 1-124
bagels, Everything Bagel Broth, 4-130 361 pressure-cooking, 3-298 tenderloin, cooking so us vide, 2248
Bagna Cauda Consomme, 5-229, 230 regional specialties in, 3-218 - 219 water for cooking, 3-276, 278 Wagyu. See Wagyu beef
baked Alaska, surprise element in, 1-37 sauces for. See barbecue sauces bear meat, Trichinella and, 1-120, 122, whole roast, FDA Food Code on,
Baked Beans, 5-67, 77 sous vide, 3-216-217 179 1-182-183
baked goods. See also breads; cakes barbecue sauces beaver fever, 1-129 beef cheeks
carbon dioxide as foaming gas in, Centrifuged BBQSauce, S-66, 67, 71 Beck, Heinz, Nouvelle cuisine and, American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 5-SS,
4-254 East Texas BBQSauce, 5-66, 69 1-28-29 57
as starch-based set foams, 4-245 House BBQSauce, 4 -49, 5-67 beech mushrooms Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3-213
water as secondary foaming gas in, Kansas City BBQSauce, S-66, 68 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, breeds and, 5-55,57
4-254 Kentucky BBQSauce, 5-66, 71 5-55,58 beef entrecOte, 1-25
Baked Potato Broth, 2-309 Memphis BBQSauce, 5-66, 70 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe beef fat, Frankfurters, 3242
Baked Potato Foam, 4-281,5-193 North Carolina (Eastern Region) for, 3-289 beef flatiron steak, seam cutting of, 347
baker's percentage, for scaling recipes, BBQSauce, 5-66,70 French Scrambled Eggs, 4-93 beef juice
1-95-97 North Carolina (Lexington-Style) beef. See also cattle; oxtail; steaks parametric recipe for, 2-344-345
baking, 2-100-113 BBQSauce, S-66, 71 Australian Eating Quality Assured Sous Vide BeefJuice, 2-349
altitude and, 2-113 South Carolina BBQSauce, 5-66, 70 grading system for, 3-39 beef jus
basting and, physics of, 2-103 barbecue stall, chemistry of, 3-212 Beef and Oyster Tartare, 3-66 Aged Rare BeefJus, 5-S, 6
ceramic cookware for, 1-277 Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, Beef Brisket, 5-67,79 Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,
in com hi ovens, 2-168 4-283 Beef Shank Rillette, 5-49,52 4-54
consistent Barbot, Pascal Beef Short Ribs, 5-67, 79 parametric recipe for, 2-344-345
strategies for, 2-112 Eggless Citrus Curd recipe, 4-234 Braised Short Ribs, 5-43, 44 Sous Vide Rare BeefJus, 2-349
temperature control and, 2-111 Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Brown Beef Stock, 2-301 beef knuckles, Oxtail Pho Broth, 2-307
convection. See convection baking; Tart recipe, 3-148 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, Beef Rib Steak plated-dish recipe, 5-S-9
convection ovens Modernist cuisine and, 1-64 3 -210 Beef Royal, Blumenthal's re-creation of,
of crust, 2-108 barding, 3-84 Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2 -180 1-51
deep-frying compared to, 2-116-117 Barham, Peter cooking Beef Shank Rillette, 5-49,52
derivation of term, 2-101 Blake, Blumenthal and, 1-51 boiling steak and, 3-72-75 Beef Short Ribs, 5-67, 79
drying stages in, 2-106-!08 Blumenthal and, 1-47, SO in combi oven, 2 180 beef stock, parametric recipe for,
heat flow simulation in roasting vs., books by, 1-44 cooking times for, 1-121 2-296-298
2-33 Brice Conferences and, 1-45 FDA Food Code on cooking of beef tallow, chemistry of, 2-126
humidity and, 2-102 liquid nitrogen ice cream and, steaks and, 1-174 Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 4 -54
ovens for. See combi ovens; 1-61-62 FDA on cooking pork vs. beef and, beef tongue
convection ovens; ovens; Rational on molecular gastronomy, 1-48 1-170-171 brining, parametric recipe for, 3-172
combi ovens; water-vapor ovens; barley ideal temperature for, 3-89 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
wood-fired ovens puffed, parametric recipe for, 4-302 sous vide, parametric recipes for, for, 3-146
preheating for, 2-102-103 Ragout of Grains, 5-125, 129 3-96, 109 beer
professionalization of, 1-7 Barnes, H. M., 3-92 Crispy Beef Strands, 5-43,44 Cheddar Soup, 4 -225
radiant heat and, 2-110-111 Bartolotta, Paul, 1-69 Cured BeefTenderloin "Bresaola foaming head on, 4-250-251,
real temperature in, 2-103, 106 baseball glove cut, from pork shoulder, Style," 3-185 254-255, 256
temperat ure measurement during, 3-48,49 curing, parametric recipe for, 3172 freeze concentration of, 2-396
2-108 Basic Mayonnaise, 4-226, 5-233 Fast Cured Pepperoni, 3-247 Guinness "Pate de Fruit," 4-145
turkey, cutaway illustration of, basting, physics of, 2-103 FDA Food Code and ice, freeze concentration of, 2-396
2-104-105 Batali, Armand ion, braised ox heart on cooking of steaks, 1-174 nucleation sites etched on glass for,
baking powder, production process for, sandwiches by, 3-142 on steaks vs . roasts, 1-187 4-251
1-255 Batali, Mario, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard- on whole roast, 1-182-183 seasoning with, 2-317
baking soda, production process for, Style recipe, 3-113 Frankfurters, 3-242 beer can chicken, science of, 2109
1-255, 256 batch size, consistent baking and, 2-111, Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, Beet Flexicurd, 4 -219
Bakke, Kent, 4398 112 2-454 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3-206,5-233
ball mills, for dry-grinding, 2-401 bathrooms, personal hygiene and, 1-196 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, Beet Meringue, 4-295
ballistic gelatin, 4 -68 batter-frying 2-451 beets
bamboo shoots example recipes for, 3-334-337 Hanger Steak Tartare, 3-65 aroma of, 5-182
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe parametric recipe for, 3-332-333 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, Beet Flexicurd, 4-219
for, 3-289 batters 3-210 Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3-206,5-233
Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, best bets for, 3-333 innards of. See innards Beet Meringue, 4-295
5-167,169 for deep-frying, 2-122, 127 Kalbi Flank Steak, 3-199 Borscht Broth, 5233, 235
bananas for frying, breading vs., 3-316 mad cow disease and, 1-156, !57, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
Banana Yogurt, 5-98 parametric recipe for, 3-333 158, 159, 160 for, 3-289
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Siphoned Tempura Batter, 5-144 Microwaved BeefJerky, 3 -184,5-43 dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
for, 3-288, 290 bay leaf ex tract, parametric recipe for, muscles in, 315, 57 3 -366
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 2-326 needled, E. coli outbreak in, 1-176 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
3-372 Bazaar, 1-67 Pot-au-Feu Consomme, 5-49, 52 Hibiscus Glaze, 4-158-159
Hot Banana Gel, 4-166 BBQ Caramels, 4-62 primal cuts of, 3-44 preserving, parametric recipe for,
ripening of, 3-283 bean sprouts Rare Beef Sausage, 3-249 3-348
Bancroft, Wilder Dwight, 4-203 preserving, parametric recip e for, Rare Flatiron Steak, 5-49, SO puree of, parametric recipe for, 2425
Bancroft's rule, science of, 4-203 3-348 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5-181, 183
Bandel, Horst, Rye Bread recipe, 5-59 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, Marmalade and Porcini, 397 Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5-233, 235
bang-bang controllers, 2-230-231 3-397 roast, Maillard reaction and, 389 beignets
Banyuls Glaze, 5-17, 19 Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, Salmonella time and temperature Beignet of Sauce Ravigote, 5-49, 51
bao technique, for stir-frying with woks, 5-167,169 curve for, 1187 Oyster Beignet, 525, 28
2-54-55 Sous Vide BeefJuice, 2-349 Pork Trotter Beignet, 5-35,38
Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5-S, 7 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4-174
LX INDEX
BOILING PO INT B
beignets (continued) black pepper infusion, parametric blenders Blumenthal, Heston (continued)
Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 553, 151 recipe for, 2310 commercial Erice Conferences and, 145, 46,47
Beijing National Aquatics Center, Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4304 dispersing thickeners with, 4 24 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel recipe, 4 183
Water Cube at, 4246 black tea infusion, parametric recipe for, for pureeing, 2400 food science and, 149-50
Belgian endive, cooking sous vide, 2310 emulsifying with, 4 206, 208 freeze filtration and, 2369
parametric recipe for, 3 -289 Black Truf!le Concentrate, 2427, 5216 foam forming with, 4252, 258 on gazpacho flavor, 5278
bell peppers blackberries handheld . See handheld blenders Hot and Cold Tea recipe, 4176, 182
Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe heat generated in, 1274, 2398, 4206 Hot Blood Pudding Custard recipe,
555, 58 for, 3290 household, for pastes, powders, or 4 221
preserving, parametric recipe for, Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2 340 purees, 2-400 Lemon Strips recipe, 461
3348 blackbodies hydration of ion-coagulated gels liquid nitrogen and, 163, 65
Smoked Pepper Puree, 555, 57 adding cream to coffee and, 1289 with, 4124 "mackerel invertebrate" dish by,
bentonite fining, 2352, 358 characteristics of, 1285 hydrocolloid dispersion with, 438, 3252
Berasategui, Martin radiation by, 1285 124 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin
on cooking small fish with crispy charcoal grills and, 210-11 immersion. See handheld blenders recipe, 4 175
skin, 3130 wavelengths and, 1287 for Modernist kitchen, 2287 "Marmite broth " and, 2304-305
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused black-eyed peas, Cucumber Black-Eyed for raw food, 3269 Microwave-Fried Parsley recipe,
Milk recipe, 3103 Pea Salad, 594 for shearing gels into fluids, 4176 3312
Modernist cuisine and, 157 Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, wet-grinding with, 2-412-413 Mock Turtle Soup recipe, 2394
bergamot 3183 for wine, hyperdecanting, 4343 norovirus outbreak and, 1155
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused blade tenderizing, 351. See also Jaccard blogs, Modernist, 159-60, 66, 67 Onion Fluid Gel recipe, 4 183
Milk,3 103 tenderizers blanding, of espresso shot, 4388 Passion Fruit Jelly recipe, 4180
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Blake, Tony blood as perfectionist and Modernist
Sabayon, 4274 on aroma compounds from Maillard cooking with, 3144 enthusiast, 150-51
Berkel, Wilhelm van, 3-44 reaction, 389 as sausage binder, 3223 Pommes Pont-Neuf recipe, 3323
Le Bernardin, 173 Blumenthal and, 151 viscosity of, 46 Potato Puree recipe, 3296, 297
Best Bets. See list ofParametric Recipe Erice Conferences and, 145 blood oranges rotary evaporation and, 2388
Tables, LV Blanc, Georges, 134 Blood Orange Foam, 4272 Salmon Poached in Licorice recipe,
beta-carotene, health benefits of, 1235 Blanc, Raymond Blood Orange Sabayon, 5 14 7, 148 4 155
beurre blanc Erice Conferences and, 145 Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, science applied to food by, 15, 52
emulsifiers for, 4204, 214 Nouvelle cuisine in the U.K. and, 2443 stock preparation by, 2283
heat-stable, 4 218 128 blood pressure, salt and, 1234, 236-237 Tomato Confit recipe, 562
beurre nair blanching blood sausage (pudding) Triple-Cooked Chips of, 3322
Black Butter Emulsion, 5157, 158 boiling and, 263 history of, 3220 vacuum-drying by, 2436
how to make, 4213 of bones for stock, 2292 parametric recipe for, 3238-239, Blumenthal, Michael, 2123
beurre noisette. See also brown butter browning reaction in plants and, 5239 BMI (body mass index), 1240, 244
consommej brown butter extract 3283 bloodline, in fish, 321, 22 Bo Innovation, 1-70
Brown Butter Fumet, 5157, 158 before cooking, 2269 Bloom, measure of gel rigidity, 4 68, V boar, wild
Brown Butter-Poached Green Garlic, before deep-frying, 2125 Bloom, Oscar, 4 68 E. coli 0157:H7 outbreak of2006
5229, 230 drying with warm air and, 2433 Blossom Salad, 5171, 172 and, 1172
how to make, 4213 extended and simplified 6D blow torching and blowtorches Trichinella and, 1120, 122
Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Salmonella reduction guidelines after sous vide cooking, 2274-275 Bocuse, Paul, 124, 26
Gel, 5181, 182 for, 1190 broiling vs., 221 sous vide cooking and, 142
Bezzera, Luigi, 4372 food safety and, 1191 for flash-cooking sushi, 361 body mass index (BMI), 1240, 244
bigeye tuna, as alternative to bluefin, offruits, 2 269 how not to use, 221 Boeuf in Gelee, 4163
355 of garlic, 526 for Modernist kitchen, 2286 Boiardi, Ettore, innovations of, 121, 31
Bilet, Maxime, 185 hot-packing for canning and, 277 blowing on hot food boiling, 262-69. See also boiling point;
Bimbo Bakeries USA, 176 juice extraction and, 2239 phase change and, 1290 boiling zone; boiling-water canning;
Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea Cucumber sous vide physics of, 1288 poaching
Maitake Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, best bets for, 3293 Blue Sky Creamery, 162-63 characteristics of, 1315, 317-319
5197, 203 how to, 3293 blueberries, heat-treating, parametric cutaway illustration of, 264-65
Biot,Jean-Baptiste, 2117 thermophilic pathogens and, 2206 recipe for, 3359 "fixing" color with, chemistry of,
Biot number, 2117 for sous vide cooking, 2267 bluefin tuna 263, 66
Birdseye, Clarence, 1306-307 with steam, 2 70 about, 5176 flash, 1317
food science and, 124 of vegetables, 2214, 269 alternatives to, 355 Giardia oocysts and, 1129
bis-2-methyl-3-furyl-disulfide, 389 water baths and, multiple, 2247 toro of, from belly, 384 heat transfer with, 263
biscuits, Buttermilk Biscuits, 5-67, 77 water baths, multiple, and, 2249 Blumenthal, Heston ofliquid nitrogen, science of, 2-457
Bismarck, Otto von, 3220 blancmange, Steamed Blancmange, Adria and, 139 under pressure, 2295
his phenol A (BPA), plastic storage 4 296 Aerated Chocolate recipe, 4313 pressure cooking and, 2291
containers and, 2207 Blanquette de Veau plated-dish recipe, British hangers and, 3236-237 rolling, blanching using steam vs.,
bit-and-plate grinders, for meat, 3231, 531-33 Citrus Spice recipe, 2404 2267
233 blast chillers cold gels and, 4 140 stages of physics of, 1316
bitters, 2320 crisping skin with, 3123 Crispy Halibut Cheek recipe, of steak, 372-75
bitter flavors, 5226 for Modernist kitchen, 2285 3334-335 steamingvs., 1319, 270, 72-73
coffee brewing and, 4364 pacotizing and, 2407 critics on, 162 thick or thin sauces and, 268-69
black butter pros and cons of, 2255 Cryopoached Dill Meringue recipe, vacuum packing and, 2213, 215
Black Butter Emulsion, 5157, 158 for quick chilling, 1206, 2256 5-165 of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1298
how to make, 4213 blast freezers, 1307, 310, 2259 Cryopoached Green Tea Sour recipe, water temperature and, 1318
Black Cod "Fredy Girardet" plated-dish bleach and water solution 4291 boiling point
recipe, 5170-173 drying with warm air and, 2433 on dehydrating fruits and vegetables, elevation of, 1318
Black Olive Oil, 5193, 195 for kitchen cleansing, 1200, 204 3366 in phase diagrams, 1302-303
Black Olive Puree, 4230 edible films used by, 460 vacuum pressure for water or ethanol
Edible Wrappers recipe, 462 vs.,2391
INDEX LXI
8 BOILING PO INT
boiling point (continued) bound water, dehydration and, 1321 breads (continued) broccoli (continued)
of water boundary layer historical development of, 17 Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,
relative humidity and, 2163 convection cooking and, 1-283, Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5135, 2181
vacuum pressure vs., 2-391 2108, 110 139 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425
boiling zone drying and, 2 431 New American cuisine and, 1-28-29 steamed in combi oven, 2-181
baking and, 2107-108 evaporation and, 1-288 parathas as, 592 La Broche, 157
convection baking and, 2110 bovine spongiform encephalopathy Rye Bread, 555, 59 Brochet, Frederic, 4334-335, 340
in steak frying, 375 (BSE), 1156, 157-159, 160 stale Brock, Sean
boiling-water canning, 276-83 bowl choppers, 3233. See also Buffalo chemistry of rescuing, 1320 food inspectors and, 183
cutaway illustration of, 282-83 choppers starch granules and, 3280 Modernist cuisine and, 1-67
food acidity issues in, 276 BPA (bisphenol A), plastic storage as starch-based set foam, 4245 Shrimp and Grits recipe, 3377
packing food in canning jars for, 278 containers and, 2 -207 water as secondary foaming gas in, Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier
raw packing or hot-packing, 277 Bradbury, Ray, 2137 4254 Butter, 4220
sterilization and, 2 76 Bradley smokers, 2147 white, indu strial production of, broilers
sterilizing acidic canned foods for, Brahman cattle, calpastatin in Wagyu 4 252, 254 for flash-cooking sushi, 361
281 beef vs., 376 The Breakfast Egg plated-dish recipe, for Modernist kitchen, 2287
USDA guidelines for, 279-80 brain, prion diseases and, 1-156-157 5211-213 portable, how not to use blowtorch
bok choy, Sichuan Bok Choy, 3313 Braised Bacon, 517, 18 breakfast-style sausage, parametric as, 221
Boltzmann, Ludwig, 1265 Braised Lamb Shoulder, 581, 83 recipe for, 3236-237 radiant heat from, 1277, 284, 285
Bond 's law, 2 401 Braised Napa Cabbage, 5109, 111 breast cancer, red meat and, 1-220 rules of thumb for, 218-20
Bone Marrow Custard, 560, 63 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, Brettanomyces (brett), wine aroma and, sweet zone of, calculating, 222-23
bones 560, 65 4350 types and features of, 220-22
blanching, for stock, 2292 Braised Sauerkraut, 535, 39 brevis mortis, slaughter and, 332 broiling, 218-27
cooking of, 3143-144 Braised Short Ribs, 5-43, 44 brewing after cooking sous vide, 2272-273
sous vide cooking and, 2-207 Braised Short Ribs plated-dish recipe, of coffee, 4364, 366-370 equipment for, 220-22 . See also
for stocks, 2288 542-47 control chart for, how to use, broilers
bonito, Quinoa and Idiazabal with Braised Turnips with Saffron, 5121, 123 4366-367 Girardet method for poaching and,
Bonito Stock Veil, 4168 Braised Veal Foreshank, 560, 62 of espresso, choosing temperature 224-25
Bonnefons, Nicolas de, 19, 19 braising for, 4385 heat intensity and, 222-23
books, water-soaked, freeze -drying for aging and, chemistry of, 298 by hunter-gatherers, 16 pizzas, 226-27
conservation of, 2444 derivation of term, 2-93 professionalization of, 17 rules of thumb for, 218 - 20
Bordeaux, France holding at specific temperature in, Brillat-Savarin,Jean Anthelme, 19 bromelain, 2335, 3195, 56
microoxygenation by winemakers in, 2247 brines. See also brining bromophenols, 388
4331 of meat, how to, 299 basic, parametric recipe for, 3-168 broths
Napoleon III on classification of pot-roasting or stewing vs., 2-93 best bets for, 3168 Bacon Dashi, 2308
wines from, 4 331-332 stewing as, 296-98 parametric recipe for, 3168-172 Baked Potato Broth, 2 309
wine storage in, 4346 Bras, Miche l reusing, food safety and, 3164 Borscht Broth, 5233, 235
Bordeaux Equation, science of, 4328 Adria and, 134 brining, 3152-158 Bouillabaisse Broth, 2308
Boring, Edwin, 4341 Black Olive Oil recipe, 5195 accelerating concentrating flavor of, 2 379, 380
Borscht Broth, 5233, 235 chocolate cake with liquid center by, howto,3174- 175 Cured Ham Broth, 581, 84
Bose-Einstein condensate, 1301 115 strategies for, 3166-167 Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay
Bosse, Chris, 4246 Le Gargouillou recipe, 1-40, 3294-295 acidic marinades vs., 3-193 Leaf, 5109, 110
bottarga. See also caviar; fish roe garlic mayonnaise of, 4 226 best bets for, 3168, 172 example recipes for, 2303-309,
Sea Urchin Bottarga, 3186, 5225, Licorice Powder recipe, 2-405 color of meat and, 5102 5197
226 liquid nitrogen and, 162, 65 equilibrium method for, 3158 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
bottle size, wine storage and, 4346 Molasses Butter recipe, 2331 how to, 3170-171 2-451
bottled water, as pure water, 1335 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality functional ingredients for, 3155 Goulash Broth, 555, 56
bottomless portafilters, 4385. See also of, 127, 39-40 goal for, 3154 Ham Broth, 2306
crotchless porta filters Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion high-concentration method for, Han Dashi, 2306, 5197
Bottura, Massimo, 1-70 recipe, 4 227 3171 Laksa Broth, 2307
botulism sous vide cooking and, 142 Maillard reaction and, 391 Mushroom Broth, 511, 14
common misconceptions about, bratwurst, parametric recipe for, with other salts, chemistry of, 3157 Oxtail Pho Broth, 2307
1118 3238-239 process of, 3152, 156, 158 parametric recipe for, 2304-305
food poisoning from spores and, Bratzler, L. J., 377 time and salt concentration for, Tom Yum Broth, 2309
1138-139 bread crumbs 3154 vacuum filtering of, 2354
nitrates or nitrites as protection in sausage, 3 -226 of vegetables with salt, 3346 Brown, Robert, 1265
from, 3165 as thickening agent, 412 brioche Brown Beef Stock, 2301
so us vide cooking and, 2206 bread pudding, Boudin Nair Bread Brioche Toast, 5219, 221 brown butter
boudin blanc Pudding, 5125, 127 Caesar Salad, 3373 Brown Butter Fumet, 5157, 158
Boudin Blanc, 3243 breading Country Bread Crisps, 585, 86 Brown Butter-Poached Green Garlic,
parametric recipe for, 3238-239 example recipes for, 3340-343 briquettes, hardwood charcoal vs ., 2-12 5229, 230
Boudin Nair Bread Pudding, 5125, 127 for frying British Airways, sous vide cooking and, how to make, 4213
Boudin Nair Custard, 5125, 127 batters vs., 3316 141 Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid
Bouillabaisse Broth, 2308 of gizzards, 3142 British hangers, parametric recipe for, Gel, 5181, 182
Bouley, David parametric recipe for, 3338-339 3236-237 brown butter consomme, parametric
on Modernist cuisine in Spain, 157 pork-rind, 3122- 123 British thermal units (BTUs) recipe for, 2374-375
New International cuisine and, 1-30 sieving particles for, 2353 calculating grill power using, 210 brown butter extract, parametric recipe
Oxtail Consomme and, 2376 skin as, 3118 definition of, 1272 for, 2326
Boulud, Daniel breads . See also bread crumbs; brioche for wok burners, 2-52 brown chicken jus, parametric recipe
Boeufin Gelee and, 4 163 Corn Bread, 567, 76 brittleness, gel se lection and, 4-73 for, 2344-345
hamburger and, 511 at elBulli, Adria on, 134-35 broccoli Brown Veal Stock, 2300
on McGee's On Food and Cooking, 144 gel-like properties of, 3376 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, Brownian motion, 1-265
New Internationa l cuisine and, 1-30 Hamburger Buns, 511, 13 2-426
LXII INDEX
CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP c
browning
in combi oven, convection mode for,
2-168
microwave ovens and, 2189
modern methods ofbraising and, 2-98
browning reaction, 389. See also
burr grinders (continued)
quality of, coffee grind and, 4-378
technology of, 4 -376
butchering, 344-50
dissecting pork shoulder after,
c
cabbage. See also green cabbage; Napa
can openers, invention of, 2-75
Canadian bacon, Eggs Benedict, 4-86
Canard Apicius, 5-121
cancer. See also carcinogens
of breast, red meat and, 1-220
3-48-49 cabbage; red cabbage; sauerkraut; colorectal, dietary fiber and,
Maillard reaction seam cutting and, 3-45-47 savoy cabbage; white cabbage 1-214-217
in plant foods, 3-283 slicing and, 3-47,50 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, International Agency for Research
in plant juices, 2 -338 butter. See also butters 3-366 on Cancer and, 1-220
Brugues, Salvador, 1-58 carotenoid pigments and, 392 preserving, parametric recipe for, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 5-94
Bruni, Frank, 1-63 clarified 3348 Candied Puffed Oats, 5-125, 128
Brussels sprouts, Deep-Fried Brussels browned solids from, 4-212 Caesar Salad, 3-373 candlenuts, Roasted Candlenuts, 5-175,
Sprouts, 3-321 how to make, 4 -213 cafe au lait, 4-393 177
BSE. See bovine spongiform emulsions and, 4-218-220 caffe breve, 4393 candling, for anisakid detection, 1-123
encephalopathy as foaming agent, 4-251 caffe crema, 4-379 candying fruits, with sugar, 3-346
BTUs (British thermal units) for froths, parametric recipe for, caffe latte cannibalism, kuru and, 1-159
calculating grill power using, 2 -10 4-264 as art form, 4-391-393 canning, 2-74-91
definition of, 1-272 health risks of margarine vs., 1-231 composition of, 4-393 anaerobic bacteria and, 1136, 138
for wok burners, 2 52 Hot Butter Foam, 4-283 milk foam in, 4-244 boiling-water method of. See boiling-
bubblers, aquarium organic food movement perception patterns in, how to make, 4-394-395 water canning
foam forming with, 4-258, 260 of, 1-253 caffe mocha, 4-393 frigi-canning and, 2-84-85
for sous vide cooking, 2-240-241 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4 100 caffeine of ham, 1-21
bubbles as soft foam, 4-247 in decaffeinated coffee, 4-363 heating requirements and duration
best bets for, 4-264 butter extract, parametric recipe for, digestion of, 4-363 for, 2-79
boiling water and, 1-315, 317-318 2-326 cakes history of, 2-75
example recipes for, 4-267-269 butterfat, separating from cream, 2366, chocolate, with liquid center, how to pack food in jars for, 2-78
as gas released from heating water, 368 evolution of, 1-15-16 packaging with care for, 2 -77
4 -252 butterfly fillet, offish, 3-52 Green Tea Cake, 4-292 of plant foods, 3344
geometry of, 4-246 buttermilk Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, with pressure. See pressure-canning
parametric recipe for, 4264 Buttermilk Biscuits, 5-67, 77 4-294 so us vide and, 2-204-205
in steamed milk for espresso, 4 -392 for marinating, 3-198 Le Calandre, 1-70 canning industry, bacteria reduction
steaming and, 271 parametric recipe for, 456 calcium standards of, 1-148
for thickening, 4-19 Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 2-443 in selected foods, 4-VII canola oil, chemistry of, 2-126
in whipped cream, 4 -256 butternut squash sources of, for ion -coagulation, 4129 cantaloupes
Buchi Labortechnik, 2 -386-387,391 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter calcium chloride Compressed Melon Terrine, 3-392
Buchner, Ernst, 2-354 Squash, 5-60, 65 in blanching water, 2 -125 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
Buchner funnel, 2-354, 356 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe for brining or curing, 3-157, 158 for, 3-288
Buckwheat Dough, 5-233, 234 for, 3-289 meat marinade containing, 3 76, 198 Cantonese Fried Rice, 2-176-177
buckwheat pasta, parametric recipe for, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, product guide for, 4-II-111 Cantu, Homaro
3-381 3-372 as salt, 4-126 on carbonated grapes, 2-469
Buckwheat Pelmeni, 5-233, 237 Pickled Butternut Squash, 5-60, 64 calcium gluconate edible films of, 4-60
Buddha's hand citron Squash Glaze, 5-60, 63 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, edible films used by, 4 -60
Buddha's Hand Vodka, 2-389 butters 4-140 Modernist cuisine and, 167
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe beurre blanc and. See beurre blanc product guide for, 411-111 patents applied for, 1-71, 72
for, 3291 black. See black butter calcium ions on Postmodern cuisine, 1-57
distillation of, 2-388 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier as hydrocolloid coagulant, 4-70, 126 on shucking oysters with liquid
Buffalo choppers, for emulsifying Butter, 4 -220 spherification and, 4-184 nitrogen, 2-458
sausage, 3-225, 230, 233 brown. See brown butter calcium lactate Trotter and, 1-69
buffering, 2-315 Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 2-365, product guide for, 4 -11-111 Capel, Jose Carlos, 1-59
Bulgogi Glaze, 5-285, 287 5-185 for spherification, parametric recipe Caper Droplets, 5-157, 159
bulk phase, in emulsions. See Coffee Butter, 5-211, 212 for, 4-187 Caplan, Frieda, 1-15
continuous phase Condrieu Butter, 5-171, 172 California capon broth, parametric recipe for,
bulking agents, spray-dried powders Marcona Almond Butter Paste, State Fair wine competition in, 2-304-305
and, 2-442 5-281,282 4338-339 cappuccino
Buon Vino pressure filters Molasses Butter, 2-331 wine innovation in, 4331, 332 Cappuccino Foam, 4-266
characteristics of, 2358 Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid California Department of Health composition of, 4-393
clarifying juice with, how to, 2-355 Gel, 5-181, 182 Services, E. coli 0157:H7 outbreak of how to make patterns in, 4-394-395
Burke, Sam Fahey, sour rhubarb sorbet Sea Urchin Butter, 5225, 227 2006 and, 1-172 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
and, 5-277 Shellfish Butter, 2 -329 calories, 1272 4-275
Burkitt, Denis P., 1-214-215, 218 Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4-219 calpains perfect pour for, 4-392
Burkitt's lymphoma, 1-214 Whipped Butter, 4 -286 aging meats and, 3-39 steaming milk for, 4-391
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4 -121 button mushrooms meat tenderness and, 376 capsaicin
burners Boudin Blanc, 3-243 reaction rates of, temperature and, biology of, 3-271
choosing, 2-41-43 Foie Gras and Button Mushroom 3-78 hotness perception and, 3270
conduction and, 1-277 Tart, 3-148 yogurt or buttermilk marinades and, purging bivalves and, 5-231
gas, 1-274 3198 capsids, of viruses, 1152
for griddles, 2-40-41 calpastatin, meat tenderness and, 3-76 capsule systems, for espresso,
induction, 1-274 Cameroon, carbon dioxide eruption technology of, 4-400
for panfrying, 2-41-43 from Lake Nyos in, 2-466 caramelization
for stir-frying, 2-48, 52, 56-57 campylobacter, 1-117 covered sauteing and, 258
wok, 2 -52, 56-57, 287 Campylobacter jejuni, 1-134, 145 pressure-cooking and, 3-298
burr grinders Can Fabes, 1-63, 258. See also smoking and, 2-135
dry-grinding with, 2-401-402 Santamaria, Santi Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3-301
IN 0 EX LX Ill
c CARAMELIZED COCONUT CREAM
Caramelized Coconut Cream, 450 Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for Excellence cast iron cookware, 1-278, 280 cellulose gums
Caramelized Creme Fraiche, 525, 28 in Innovation and Creativity in cats dispersion and hydration of, 4 -127
Carasso, Daniel, 1-20-21 Design, atM.I.T., 2412 spongiform encephalopathy of, 1-159 gelling agents from, 4126
carbohydrates Carlson, Michael, 1-69 Toxoplasma gondii and, 1-126- 127 parametric recipe for, 4 -170-171
diets low in, 1-242 Carmona, Jean Paul, Beef Cheek catalysis, 2-20 properties and applications of, 4170
in fermented sausage, 3246 Pastrami recipe, 3213 catalysts, 2-21, 335 cellulose-based hydrocolloids, as
carbon dioxide ( C02) carotenoid pigments, 3-30, 92, 93 catalytic gas broilers, 2-20-21 thickeners, 419
for carbonating drinks, 1334, 4 -254 carrageenan Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Celsius, Anders, 1-266
chemical formula for, 2..464 dairy gel formation with, 4-102 Human (Wrangham), 1-6, 3-269 Celsius temperature scale, 1-266, 285
coffee roasting and, 4358 as emulsion stabilizer, 4215 cathepsins, 3-39, 76, 78 Centers for Disease Control and
containers and, air in head space of, as foam stabilizer, 4-257 cattle. See also beef; oxtail; veal Prevention. See U.S . Centers for
2-464 in heavy cream, 4-102 E. coli 0157:H7 and Disease Control and Prevention
crema on espresso and, 4-384 iota. See iota carrageenan transmission of, 1118-119, 172 centipoise (cP), 4-6
critical point for, 1-328 kappa. See kappa carrageenan vaccinations for, 1-145 Centre de Recherche et d 'Etudes pour
digestion of, 2-464 lambda. See lambda carrageenan prion diseases in, 1158 !'Alimentation (CREA), 143
as dry ice, 2-458, 464. See also dry ice natural sources for, 1253 scrapie in, 1-158 centrifugal-style juicers, 2332, 334
eruption of Lake Nyos, Cameroon product guide for, 4-II-III sheep liver fluke and, 1-123 Centrifuged BBQSauce, S-66, 67, 71
and, 2-466 production process for, 1257 tapeworms and, 1-124 Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 2365,
as foaming gas, 4 254-255 spherification using, 4-184 cauliflower S-185
solubility in water, 1-330, 332,4-243 uses of, 4-128 Cauliflower Couscous, 3-388 Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2-367
supercritical, decaffeinated coffee Carrot and Dill Fricassee, S-161, 164 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise, 4 -89 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,
and, 4-363 carrot chips, parametric recipe for, Cauliflower Foam, S-281, 283 2-367
supercritical fluid extraction and, 3-328 Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 4-142 centrifuges, 2-360-368
2-320 carrot tops, Microwave-Fried Parsley Deep-Fried Cauliflower, S-281, 283 balancing, how to, 2-363
taste of, 4-256 and Carrot Tops, S-49, 53 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, for cholesterol tests, 1226-227
triple point for, 1-328 carrots 3-366 for filtering, 2-351, 352, 360, 368
truffles and, preserving freshness benefits of cooking, 3-267 preserving, parametric recipe for, Genevac Rocket Evaporator as,
with, 2-470 Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, 3-348 2-391-395
for whipping siphons, 4 -256 S-94 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425 for Modernist kitchen, 2 -284
carbon filtration, for purifying water, Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3-301 Cava wine, Oysters with Cava Foam, safety of, 2-361
1-335 Carrot and Dill Fricassee, S-161, 164 4 -277 separating butterfat from cream
carbon monoxide (CO), to bloom Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 2365, caviar with,2-366
myoglobin in meat, 395 5-185 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, for separating emulsions, 4-210, 212
carbonated drinks, carbon dioxide for, cooking so us vide, parametric recipe 3-210 separating liquids with, 2-364
1-334, 4 -254 for, 3-289, 292 Melon Caviar, 4 -189 types of, 2-362
Carbonated Golden Raisins, 5157, 159 Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4-300 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4174 centrifuging, example recipes for,
Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4-188 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, cavitation 2-365-367, 55, 60, 185
carbonation 3-372 collapse, in boiling, 1-317 century egg
characteristics of, 4-464 Glazed Carrot, 5185, 186 by high-pressure homogenizers, Century Egg, 4-83
equipment for, 2286 Glazed White Carrot, S-31, 32 2-414,415 parametric recipe for, 4-82
example recipes for, 2-472-473, 511 Nukazuke, 3-354 CDC. See U.S. Centers for Disease cephalopods. See also octopus; squid
fizziness taste and, science of, 2-465 preserving, parametric recipe for, Control and Prevention biology of, 3-24
offruit, 1-69, 2-469,472 3-348 CDS/NPOS notation system for ceramic cookware, conductivity and,
of liquids puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425 cooking, 1-47,48 1-277
pacotizing and, 2-407 Root Vegetable Risotto, 3-309 celebrity chefs, 1-19, SO, 60. See also ceramic plates, in gas grills, 2 11
techniques for, 2-464 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 549, 53 individual chefs' names Certified Angus Beef, 339
temperature and, 2-464 Carsberg, Scott New American cuisine and, 1-29 cestodes
tips for, 2-468 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade New International cuisine and, 131 contamination by, 1120
Perlini system for, 4347 recipe, 4169 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1-26 destruction of, 1-123
physics of, 1334 Pecorino with Truffle Honey on celery, compressing and impregnating, types of, 1-124
taste, science of, 2 -465 Cedar recipe, 4-101 parametric recipe for, 3390 ceviche
wine pairing and, 4352 carvacrol, as antimicrobial compound, celery root acidic marinades for, 3-193, 194
carbonyls, in smoking wood, 2-135, 1-145 Celery Root Mousseline, 2-427, Fluke Ceviche, 3-203
3-211 case-control studies, of nutrition, 1-220 5126 CFUs (colony-forming units), 1-142
carboxyl methylcellulose (CMC) case-hardening, as form of drying, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe CGS (centimeter, gram, second) units,
interactions with other thickeners, 2-428 for, 3-289 1-272
444- 45 casein Pickled Celery Root, S-126, 133 Chaat Masala, 5281, 282
product guide for, 4-IV-V as fining agent, 2-360 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425 chamber sealers, 2-214-221. See also
properties and uses of, 4-42-43 in homogenized cream, 2-360, 368 Root Vegetable Jus, S-161, 163 vacuum chambers
carcinogens as surfactant, 4202 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, S-49, 53 advantages of, 2-214
food additives as, 1-252 cashews celery root chips, parametric recipe for, boiling inside, damage and, 2215
grilled meat and fish and, 1-220 Cashew Halvah, 593 3328 common problems with, 2-220-221
in smoke, liquid smoke for avoiding, Green Mango and Cashew Salad, Celery Root Mousseline, 2-427, S-126 gas-flushing, truf!le storage with,
2-149 S-167, 169 celiac disease, gluten intolerance and, 2-471
smoked food and, 2 -143 casing, sausage, 3226, 227 1-239 impulse sealers and, 2225
Careme, Antonin cassava El Celler de Can Roca, 1-58 for Modernist kitchen, 2-284
aspics of, 4-68 flour milled from, 3376 cellulose optional features of, 2 -216-217
as chef to French ruling class, 1-8, 9 toxins in, 3-262 gels not formed from, 4-124 for plant food cooking, 3-286
culinary rules and codes of, 1-5 Vegetable Coals, 3395 for low-fa t sausage tenderness, vacuum packing with, 2-209,218,
French cuisine and, 1-19 Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn) 3-224 219
innovations of, 120 plated-dish recipe, S-81-84 cellulose gum LV, thickening with, Chamberlin, Walter, 1-60
meat embedded in gelatin by, 3250 Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring) plated- parametric recipe for, 446, 47
dish recipe, S-85-87
LXIV INDEX
Champagne cheese sauce, parametric recipe for, chicken (continued)
CHOCOLATE WATER c
chili extract, parametric recipe for,
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4183 4223 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 2326
foaming head on, 4254 cheese slices, parametric recipe for, 3210 chili peppers
nucleation sites etched on glass for, 4 223 The Colonel's Chicken, 3336 capsaicin in, 3 271
4251 cheese soup, parametric recipe for, cooking Chili Pearls, 4145
storage of, 4346, 347, 348 4 223 sous vide, parametric recipe for, Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2403
"Champagne grapes," Cantu on, 2469 cheese spread, parametric recipe for, 399, 108 choosing, 3271
Champion-style juicers, 2332, 334 4223 times for, 1180, 181 dry, converting grams to volumes
Chang, David cheese trolley, 125, 35 Crisp Chicken Crown, 5113, 116 for, 5XXXVIII
Bacon Dashi recipe, 2308 cheesecloth, for filtering, 2351 "danger zone" temperatures and, infusion of, parametric recipe for,
Deep Fried Brussels Sprouts recipe, Cheesy "Whiz," 4 225 1176, 177, 178-179 2310
3321 Chef Boy-ar-Dee canned goods, 121 deep-frying, high-pressure, Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry
Kimchi recipe, 3352 chefs, celebrity, 119, 50, 60. See also 2 120-121 Salad, 5277, 278
Shaved Foie Gras recipe, 3177 individual chefs' names fast-twitch vs . slow-twitch muscle in, preserving, parametric recipe for,
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca New American cuisine and, 129 312 3348
recipe, 4 285 New International cuisine and, 131 FDA safe cooking standards for, rating, science of, 3-270
Chantecler, 134 Nouvelle cuisine and, 126 1170 Romesco Sauce, 2-419
chanterelles, Mushroom Puree, 5215, chefs, professional. See also individual food safety misconceptions about, Spiced Chili Oil, 2330
216 chefs' names 1180-181 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 4 238
chao technique, for stir-frying, 254, cooking by amateur chefs vs., Fried Chicken Sausage, 3249 chilling. See also chilling water baths;
56-57 187-88 Gong Bao Chicken, 3205 cook-chill sous vide methods;
Chapel, Alain copying dishes and, 171 Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5113, freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter recipe, early civilization and development 114-115 of a carcass, 335
3100 of, 17-8 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, food safety and quality and, 2252,
pot-au-feu of, 5-49 hygiene accessories for, 1202-203 3210 254,256
Chaptal,Jean-Antoine, 4 330 recipes inspired by or adapted from, Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3248 in so us vide cooking, 2242
chaptalization, in viticulture, 4330, 332 1100-101 meat color of duck vs., 316-17 strategies for, 2255
charcoal. See also coals; prune coals Chern ex coffee brewer, 4369 Modernist Fried Chicken, 3337 chilling water baths
vs. briquettes for grilling, 212 chemicals Poulet au Feu d 'Enfer, 3100 for Modernist kitchen, 2285
as fining agent, 2360 for food preservation, 1144-145 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken physics of not halting cooking with,
vs. gas for grilling, 2 10-11 in foods, 1250 Stock, 2301 2254
making, 2134 juicing citrus fruits and, 2332 primal cuts of, 3 44 technology of, 2238
vs. wood for grilling, 27 kitchen, common, 4Vl program cooking in combi oven, chimneys, air flow up, 27
charcoal grills prions and, 1156 2169 China
controlling heat in, 214 in smoking, 2140 roast, combi oven cooking of, aristocratic food in, 18
gas grills vs., 210-11 cherries 2178-179 fermented meats in, 3246
chard stems, cooking sous vide, Cherry Vinaigrette, 5267, 270 Salmonella and, 1180-181 tradition and evolving cuisine of,
parametric recipe for, 3289 cooking sous v ide, parametric recipe Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 115
Chardonnay, genetic origins of, for, 3288 3134-135 Chinese artichokes, cooking sous vide,
4327-328 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Yakitori, 3201 parametric recipe for, 3292
Charpentier, Georges, 119 Nougatine, 5267, 270 chicken fat Chinese banquet stock, parametric
Charred Leek Oil, 517, 18 Foie Gras Cherries, 4153, 5267, Boudin Blanc, 3243 recipe for, 2296-297
Chateau Cordeillan-Bages, 163 268,269 chemistry of, 2126 Chinese everyday stock, parametric
chawanmushi Pickled Bing Cherry, 5267, 268 Fried Chicken Sausage, 3249 recipe for, 2296-297
Chawanmushi, 4 96 preserving, parametric recipe for, Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3248 Chinese ginger soy fish broth,
description of, 496 3348 chicken feet, Puffed Chicken Feet, parametric recipe for, 2304-305
parametric recipe for, 492 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard 3-133 Chinese restaurant headache, MSG
cheddar cheese Marmalade and Porcini, 397 chicken gizzard, cooking sous vide, and, 1213
The American Cheese Slice, 4224 cherries (coffee plant fruit), 4358 parametric recipe for, 3146 chinois, cone-shaped, 2351
Cheddar Soup, 4225 Cherry Vinaigrette, 5267, 270 chicken juice, parametric recipe for, chips. See also fruit chips; vegetable
Cheese Puffs, 4305 chestnuts 2344-345 chips
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, Chestnut Con fit, 517, 18 chicken skin dehydrating formula for, 3367
2411 Chestnut Cream, 517, 21 cooking methods for, 3120-121 chives, freeze-drying, parametric recipe
Mac and Cheese, 3387 Chestnut Puffs, 517, 20-21 Crisp Chicken Crown, 5113, 116 for, 3372
Cheddar Soup, 4225 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe crisping by loosening, 3123 chlorine, in municipal water, 1335
cheese. See also specific types of cheese for, 3291, 292 crispy cooking sous vide of, 3131 chlorophyll
constructed, best bets for, 4223 Chevalier-Appert, Raymond, 275 chicken stock, parametric recipe for, in green vegetables, 2267
as dairy gel, 4102-123 Chez Panisse, 128 2296-298 hard water and, 3278
emulsions and, 4218, 222-225 Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook (Waters), Chicken Tikka Masala, 3204 chlorophyllase, 2 267
FDA Food Code on milk 128-29 chickpeas chocolate
pasteurization for, 1 l 85 Chicago, as Modernist mecca, 169 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, Aerated Chocolate, 4313
Fresh Cheese Curds, 4 106 chicharrones, water as foaming gas for, 4121 Chocolate Chantilly, 4281
processed, history of, 4222 4254 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe conching of, 2404
raw milk chicken for, 3292 foam bars, forming, 4254
French vs. U.S. standards on, 1171, aging, 341 puffed, parametric recipe for, 4302 Mayans and, 113
173 beer can roasting of, 2109 Puffed Chickpea Salad, 5135, 138 melted, solidified to frozen set foam,
safe cooking standards for, 1170 Boudin Blanc, 3243 Puffed Chickpeas, 4 307 4247
smoked, parametric recipe for, 4 100 breeding for white meat, 2120 Child, Julia, 126, 83 chocolate cake with liquid center,
spoiled, risks of, 1139 brining, parametric recipe for, 3172 on sole meunihe, 3-40 evolution of, 115- 16
cheese fondue, parametric recipe for, Chicken Tikka Masala, 3204 Children's Hospital, Oakland, chocolate milk, as colloidal suspension,
4223 Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, California, 1230 4176
Cheese in a Tube, 4225 4238 Chile, wine innovation in, 4332 chocolate water, parametric recipe for,
Cheese Puffs, 4 305 2374-375
IN 0 EX LXV
c
cholesterol
CHOLESTEROL
clams (continued) coagulants (continued) coffee (continued)

characteristics of, 1224 geoduck protein, 4-103 milk and, art of, 4-391-395
dietary fat and, 1-222, 224-227 biology of, 3-27 sequestrants for removing, 4-72 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
health risks with low levels of, 1-226 cooking sous vide, parametric for thickening, 4-7, 71 4-275
heart disease and, 1-227 recipe for, 3-108 coagulants for gelling, 4-70,71 pod and capsule systems for,
weight loss diets and, 1-242 Geoduck with Seawater Foam, ion-based, 4-124-127 technology of, 4 -400
chopping, tools for, 3-230-233 4-266 how to use, 4-129 Seattle as capital of, history of, 4-398
chorizo Marinated Geoduck, Young coals storing, practicalities of, 4-362
Chorizo Crisp, 5-193, 194 Ginger, Shiso, 5-197,200 faux . See prune coals tasting like a pro, how to, 4-365
Chorizo French Toast, 4-98-99 Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, glowing, pot-roasting and, 2-96 coffee beans
Frozen Chorizo Powder, 5-193, 194 Scallop Mochi, 5-197, 202 coalescence, as emulsion failure, 4 -210, burr grinders for, 2-401-402,4-376,
parametric recipe for, 3-244-245 razor 212 378
Passion Fruit Marshmallow with cooking sous vide, parametric Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3-248 from cherry to, 4-358, 360-361
Chorizo Powder, 4-290 recipe for, 3-103 coarse-ground sausages, 3 -220, 222 for espresso, 4-374, 376
Choucroute Royale plated-dish recipe, noroviruses and, 1-155 best bets for, 3 -236-237 Northern Italian roast for, 4-360
5-35-39 Razor Clam "Takoyaki," 5197, 199 cryoshattering for, 3 -230 grinding for espresso
chronic wasting disease (CWD), 1-159 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, parametric recipe for, 3-236-237 adjustments for, 4-388
chufamilk 3-112 Coca-Cola, 1-20, 22-23, 76 coarse vs. fine, 4-376, 378
Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4-59 So us Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, cockles, cooking sous vide, parametric common problems with, 4 -377
parametric recipe for, 4-56 3-308 recipe for, 3-103 grinders for. See espresso grinders
chufa nuts Stuffed Clam, 5-229, 231 cockscombs how to, 4-3 77
about, 5-244 Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5-229,230 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe pregrinding and, 4-380
Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4-59 clarified butter for, 3-146 processing methods for, 4-358
Horchata Foam, 5-239, 244 browned solids from, using, 4 -212 preparation of, 3-122 roasting, stages of, 4-362
chymosin, as gel coagulant, 470 how to make, 4-213 Puffed Cockscomb, 3-133 roasting for flavor, 4-358, 360-361
cinnamon cap mushrooms, Preserved clarity. See also opacity cocoa species of, 4-358
Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, S-219, 220 thickener selection and,4-15 Cocoa Nib Curd, 4 -105 surface area after grinding of, 2290
cinnamon extract, parametric recipe Clay Potatoes, 3398 Cocoa Tajarin, 5-225, 227 Coffee Butter, 5-211, 212
for, 2-326 cleaning. See also food safety; hygiene cocoa tajarin coffee extract, parametric recipe for,
cinnamon infusion, parametric recipe of coffee brewer and grinder, 4-396 Cocoa Tajarin, 5-225, 227 2-326
fo r, 2-310 of combi ovens, 2-169 Cocoa Tajarin plated-dish recipe, coffee grinders
Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5-273, of espresso machines, how to, 4397 5-225-227 breaking down food with, 2-400
275 of kitchens, 1-200, 204 parametric recipe for, 3-381 burr type
cipolline onions, Sweet-and-Sour Cliche, Michael, sous vide cooking and, coconut dry-grinding with, 2-401-402
Cipolline Onions, 5-17, 19 2-195 Caramelized Coconut Cream, 450 quality of, coffee grind and, 4-378
circulating water baths, 2232, climacteric fruits, ripening, 3 -283 -284 Coconut Chutney Foam, 4-282 technology of, 4-376
234-235, 237 climate, winemaking and, 4-328-329 Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 5-185, colloid mill for, 2-404
citric acid clinical trials. See randomized clinical 187 dispensers, portafilter dosing and,
as acidifier, 2-314 trials preserving, parametric recipe for, 4-378
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, cloning, wine and, 4-326-328 3-348 fan cooled, 4-376, 378, 398
4-140 Clorox, for kitchen cleaning, 1-200, 204 coconut oil, chemistry of, 2-126 hopper of, stale coffee in, 4 -377
for sausage, 3-227 Clostridium botulinum cod quality of, coffee grind and, 4-378
citron, Buddha's hand canning and, 2-75 coldsmoking, parametric recipe for, temperature of, coffee grind and,
Buddha's H and Vodka, 2-389 food contamination by, 1-140 3-210 4 -376
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe food poisoning and, 1-132-133, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe coffee infusion, parametric recipe for,
for, 3-291 138-139 for, 3-102 2-310
distillation of, 2-388 pressurecanning and, 285, 88 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused coffeegeek.com, 4-398
Citrus Air, 4-265 refrigeration and, 2 -257 Milk,3-103 cohort studies, of nutrition, 1-220
citrus extract, parametric recipe for, replication of Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3 -179 COl, 1-67. See also Patterson, Daniel
2-326 limits of, 1-145 Monkfish with Constructed Skin, cola brine, parametric recipe for, 3168
citrus fruits . See also specific fruits nisin and, 1-144-145 3-132 colanders, 2-351
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, sod ium nitrites and, 1-144 Sous Vide Black Cod, 5-171, 173 Colborne Lane, 1-70
3-366 Clostridium perfringens Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute, cold gels, parametric recipe for,
heat-treating, parametric recipe for, chicken and, 1-180 4-32 4-140-141
3-359 food poisoning from, 1-138, 139, 141 cod roe, Steamed Cod with Cod Roe cold liquids, thickened, parametric
juice of, as acidifier, 2-314,315 replication of Veloute, 4-32 recipe for, 4-46-47
preserving, parametric recipe for, limits of, 1-145 coffee, 4-354-403. See also coffee beans cold shortening, of a carcass, 3-35
3-348 nisin and, 1-144-145 adding cream to, physics of, 1-289 cold-extraction coffee system, 2 -286,
citrus oil, washing, how to, 2321 rate of, 1-142 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 4 -312 4 -370,371
citrus press, 2-332, 335 clotted cream, parametric recipe for, brewing. See brewing cold-shocking, physics of not halting
Citrus Spice, 2-404 4-56 Cappuccino Foam, 4-266 cooking with, 2-254
city roast stage, of coffee, 4 -362 Clove Oil, 5-49, 52 Coffee Butter, 5-211, 212 cold-smoking, 2-141-143,3-361
civet, Asian palm, Kopi Luwak coffee Clover coffee machine, 4-398 coldextraction system for, 2 -286, coleslaw
and, 4-360 CMC (carboxyl methylcellulose) 4-370,371 Red Coleslaw, 5-67, 72
civilization, definition of, 17 interactions with other thickeners, consistency in, 4 -396-403 White Coleslaw, 5-67, 72
C]D (Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease), 4-44-45 cooking with, technique of, 4-371 collagen
1-157-159, 160 product guide for, 4-IV-V decaffeinated in cephalopods, 3-24-25
clams properties and uses of, 4 -42-43 production process for, 1-256 in cooking, role of, 3-80-81
biology of, 3-26, 27 CO (carbon monoxide), to bloom science of, 4-363 fat and
Clam Juice, 5229, 230 myoglobin in meat, 3 -95 espresso as. See espresso incorporation into sausage, 3224
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe C02. See carbon dioxide Fair Trade, economics of, 4-361 in meat, 315
for, 3-103 coagu lants grinders for. See coffee grinders in fish, 3-20, 21
fecal contamination of, 1-117 for gell ing. See coagulan ts for gell ing Kopi Luwak, provenance of, 4-360 gelatin formation from, 4 -67
LXVI INDEX
collagen (continued) combi ovens (continued) conducting foods, pressure-cann ing
CONVECTION OVEN MODE
consomme
c
holding at specific temperature and, invention of, 2-154 and, 288 Bagna Cauda Consomme, 5229, 230
2247 kitchen humidity and, 2164 conduction. See also conduction zone best bets for, 2374-375
Jaccard tenderizers and, 3-51 for Modernist kitchen, 2284 in cookware, 1277-278 clarifying, 2352
long, slow cooking and, 384 omelet cooking in, 495 in deep-frying, 2117 crystal clear, 2359
in meat, 3-6 pans for, 2166 in foods, 1279, 280-281 example recipes for, 2376-377
meat tenderness and, 3-10 pot-roasting using, 296 pressure-canning and, 2-89 Ham Consomme with Melon Beads,
muscle contraction and, 3 -8-9 program cooking with, 2 168- 169, freezing water and, 1299 448
shrinkage of, 379 172-173 heat transfer with, 1277 Oyster Consomme, 5205, 206
in skin, baking chicken upright and, Rational. See Rational combi ovens in pan frying, 2-42-43 parametric recipe for, 2374-375
2-109 rib eye recipe using, 2180 in shallow frying, 2127 Pot au Feu Consomme, 5 49, 52
skin shrinkage and, 3116, 118 roasting chicken in, 2178-179 underground, wine storage and, Spring Garlic Consomme, 585, 86
of young vs. older animals, juiciness for sous vide cooking, 2232, 239, 4345 Strawberry Consomme, 5277, 278
and, 379, 81 243 in various materials, 1280-281 vacuum filtering of, 2354
collapse temperature, in freeze-drying, water content of heated air in, 2 -153 conduction zone consomme madrilf:ne, parametric
2446 combination (combi) mode, in modern baking and, 2108 recipe for, 2374-375
Collectramatic, 2120-121 ovens, 2156-157 in steak frying, 375 constant-rate period
colloid mills, 2 398-400 combustion, of wood, 2137 stir-frying and, 248 in baking, 2106-107
for dry-grinding, 2404 comminution, 3230 confidence interval, of nutritional in deep-frying, 2117
features of, 2416-417 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, studies, 1220 in drying, 2431
milling creamy nut butter with, 555, 58 confits, 2128-131 constructed cheeses
2418-419 compressed fruits and vegetables Artichoke Confit, 5171, 172 best bets for, 4223
for Modernist kitchen, 2284 example recipes for, 3392-401, Chestnut Con fit, 517, 18 example recipes for, 4 224-225
for wet-grinding, 2-413-414, 5285 Confit Cure Mix, 3179 constructed creams, 4-214
416-419 parametric recipe for, 3390-391 Con fit Egg-Yolk Puree, 5147, 148 Constructed Veal Cream, 531, 33
colloidal suspensions (colloids) Compressed Green Apple, 5211, 212 duck, curing for, 3159 example recipes for, 4236-237
blood as, 4 6 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3392 Duck Leg Con fit with Pommes Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5219,
description of, 412 Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5109, 110 Sarladaises, 3178 221
emulsified sausage as, 3225 Compressed Tomato, 511, 15 Garlic Confit, 3354, 525, 60, 81 contamination
reductions of, 4-11 compression, vacuum Lobster Mushroom Con fit, 5185, by animal flesh, 1117
The Colonel's Chicken, 3336 physics of, 2213 187 cross-contamination and. See cross-
colony-forming units (CFUs), 1142 for plant food cooking, 3286 Pink Grapefruit Confit, 5225, 226 contamination
color using chamber sealers, 2214 safety considerations for, 2-128 environmental, 1-116, 117
alteration of, when cooking cured computer simulation models Smoked Potato Confit, 5193, 195 fecal
meat or seafood, 3165 ofbacterial growth, 1147 Sous Vide Duck Confit Pave, 581, animal, 1116- 117
boiling to "fix," chemistry of, 263, of cold-shocking effects on cooking, 82 hygiene and, 1196-197, 200
66 2254 sous vide preparation of, 2128-129 plant foods and, 1197
of cow's milk, 4202 of flipping food for speed and Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel by human spittle, 1116, 117
of crustaceans, molting and, 3-30 evenness, 2-39 Salad, 3106 kitchen space and, 1200
of fresh juice, preserving, 2 338, 339 of heat flows in roasting vs. baking, Tomato Confit, 511, 55, 60, 62,67 microbial
gassing meat for, chemistry of, 3-95 233 traditional preparation of, 2-128, aerobic. See aerobic bacteria
of meat ofheattransfer, 1282 130-131 anaerobic. See anaerobic bacteria
cooking and, 393-94 oftime for steaming vs. boiling, 273 conformations, ofprion diseases, 1156, bad odors from sealed bags and,
muscles and, 312, 14-15, 16-17 COMSOL, 1282 158 2214
myoglobin and, 392-93 concentrates, 2378-397 confounding effects, nutritional studies shellfish foraging and, 327-28
physics of temperature and, 1291 cell dehydration in, 1305 and, 1219 continuous phase
of plant foods freezing, 2 396, 397 conjugation, plasmid transfer by, 1133 of cream, 4203
cooking and changes in, chemistry Genevac Rocket Evaporator for, Connaughton, Kyle, 354 in emulsions, 4 -199
of, 3274-275 2391-395 Fluke Cured in Kombu recipe, 3181 ratio of continuous phase to, 4-205
drying and, 3365 reverse osmosis for, 2-396 Sous Vide Ponzo recipe, 2313 in foams, 4243
of seafood, cooking and, 393-94 rotary evaporator for, 2384-389 connective tissue controlled-vapor oven. See CVap water-
wine taste and, 4334-335, 338 strategies for, 2379-380 aging of, 3-41 vapor ovens
colorectal cancer, dietary fiber and risk vacuum reduction for, 2380-383 barbecue stall and, 3212 convecting foods, pressure-canning of,
of, 1214-217 concentrators, vacuum, 2-285, 379, 380 baseball glove cut from pork 288, 89
Columbus, Christopher, 114 conching, chocolate making by, 2404 shoulder and, 348 convection
Combal.Zero, 170 concretes, solvent extraction of blocking tuna and, 3 54-55 convection zone and, 2-48
Com Base Initiative, Growth Predictor essential oils and, 2320 of bones, 3143-144 cooking using, 1279, 281-283. See
(bacterial modeling) and, 1147 condensates brining and, 3157 also convection baking; convection
Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2180 definition of, 1319 cooking and, 376 ovens
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 2181 film, steaming and, 1319, 270 oftough cuts, 384 forced, 1282-283, 2159
com hi ovens from rotary evaporation, 2 390-391 in fatty tissue, 3118, 145 freezing water and, 1299
bacon and eggs cooked in, 2174-175 smoke, drenching food with, 2149 in heart meat, 3142 heattransfer with, 1277
baking using, 2106 condensation. See also evaporation; in kidneys, 3141 natural, 1282, 283
broccoli steamed in, 2 181 humidity pounding and, 350 panfrying and, 242-43
calibration of, 2163 deep-frying and, 2 125 sausage-making and, 3224 convection baking
cooking in, 2167- 168 energy transfer and, 270 in skin, 3116 boundary layer and, 2108, 110
cooking modes of, 2155-157 evaporative cooling as, 1319-321, in sweetbreads, 3140 radiant heat and, 2110- 111
cooking strategies for, 2170 325 tenderizing of, 341 convection cells, in natural convection,
crisping skin with, 3123 heat transfer with, 1277 with marinades, 3192, 193, 195 1283
drying in, 2430, 431 stir-frying and, 248 in tongue, 3141 convection currents, boiling and, 1315
heat and humidity control in, condensers, vacuum, essential oils and, tumbling and, 3 51 convection oven mode, combi ovens
2-162-163 2320 conservation of mass, 1-33 1 and, 2157, 168
improvement proposals for, 2-167 Condrieu Butter, 5171, 172
INDEX l XV II
c CONVECTION OVENS
convection ovens. See also convection Coppens, Kristof, 1-70 crab. See also crabmeat Creamed Watercress, 2-426, 55
baking copyright laws, chefs' recipes and, biology of, 3-28, 30 creaming
drying in, 2-431 1-70-71 liver fluke infections and, 1124 as draining in foams, 4249
forced convection, 1-282-283 core temperature crabmeat as emulsion failure, 4-210, 218
forced-convection steam ovens and, FDA Food Code on, 1-174 Crab and Ginger Marble, 5253, 255 creams
2-239 heating to, food safety and, 1-191 Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, 5-253, constructed, 4-214, 236-237
method of operation, 1-282-283 target 256 Constructed Veal Cream, 5-31, 33
TurboChef microwave oven and, holding food at, 2-247-249 Crab Oil, 5-189, 190 making, best bets for, 4 -56
2-189 water bath hotter than, 2-243-247 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, parametric recipe for, 4 -56
convection steaming, in ovens, 2-156 water bath set to, 2-243-245 4-169 crema
convection zone, stir-frying and, 2-48 coriander extract, parametric recipe for, Edamame Sheets, King Crab, age of roasted coffee beans and,
convenience food, corporate control of, 2-326 Cinnamon Dashi, 4-118 4-361
1-23 corked wine, 4-348-350 faux (surimi), 3-251, 388 carbon dioxide and, 4 384
Cook, Robin, 3196 rescuing, chemistry of, 4-349 Marinated Crab Sa/ad, 5-189, 191 chemistry of, 4-388
cookbook writers, chefs as, 1-83 corks, for wine bottles, natural and Puffed Crab Crackers, 5-189, 190 creme anglaise
cook-chill sous vide methods synthetic, 4344, 345, 346 Shellfish Stock, 5-185, 186 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise, 489
canning and, 2-204-205 corn. See also popcorn Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork parametric recipe for, 485
for food preservation, 2-252 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Stock Infusion, 5-253, 254 creme bnilee
frigi-canning and, 2-84 for, 3-289, 292 Cracco, Carlo, 170 parametric recipe for, 485
for storage, 1-206, 2-250 Corn Bread, 5-67, 76 Seafood Paper recipe, 3-188 Parmesan Creme BrUh~e, 488
vacuum packing for, 2-208-209 Corn Croquetta, 3341 crack phases, in coffee roasting, 4361, creme caramel
cooked whole eggs, parametric recipe Corn Custard, 4-122 362 parametric recipe for, 492
for, 4-78-79 Corn Foam, 4 -273 crackers Smoked Egg Creme Caramel, 4-101
cooking. See also specific cooking Corn Pebbles, 4 -36 puffed, parametric recipe for, 4302 creme fraiche
techniques and foods Crispy Corn Pudding, 5-101, 104 Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4303 Caramelized Creme Fraiche, 5-25, 28
corporate approach to, 1-22-24 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, cracklings, water as foaming gas for, Frozen Creme-Fraiche and Pine-Nut
of early civilizations, 1-7-8, 10- 13 3-366 4-254 Cream, 2 -411
evolution of, 1-14-16 dried, Shrimp and Grits, 3-377 Craig, Lyman, 2-384 Red-Onion Cream, 3-68
history of origins of, 1-6-13 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, cranberries, cooking sous vide, Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease (CJD),
history of Slow Food and, 1-23 3-372 parametric recipe for, 3-288,291 1-157-159, 160
by hunter-gatherers and early freezing to preserve flavor of, 3-374 crawfish/crayfish Crilly, Grant, Prune Coals recipe, 517
farmers, 1-6-7 frozen, grits ground from, 3-376 freshwater, biology of, 3-28 crimini mushrooms
Modernist. See Modernist cuisine puffed, parametric recipe for, 4-302 liver fluke infections and, 1-124 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
New American cuisine, 1-28-29 puree of, parametric recipe for, as seafood gel, 3-222 for, 3-289
Nouvelle revolution in, 1-24, 26-31 2-425 CREA (Centre de Recherche et Crimini in Amber, 4154
of plant foods under pressure, smoking, parametric recipe for, d'Etudes pour !'Alimentation), 143 Mushroom Broth, 511, 14
example recipes for, 3-301-303, 3-362 C-reactive protein, 1227, 242 Mushroom Ketchup, 5-11, 13
5181 corn oil, chemistry of, 2 -126 cream. See also creams Crisp Chicken Crown, 5-113, 116
revolution in, 1-18 -20 corn starch, 420 adding to coffee, physics of, 1-289 crisping skin
at low end, 1-20-22 thickening with, parametric recipe Baked Potato Foam, 4-281, 5-193 approaches to, 3123
Nouvelle, 1-24, 26-31 for, 4-28 clotted, parametric recipe for, 456 after cooking sous vide, 2-268
in 17th century Fra nce, 19 corn syrup, flavor release by, 4 11 Corn Foam, 4-273 offish
of skin, example recipes for, corned beef cure, parametric recipe for, Cromesquis, 3-340 slime as key to, physiology of, 3-129
3-132-135 3-169 Eggplant Foam, 4-280 small, how to, 3-130
so us vide. See sous vide cornmeal, gelling properties of, 4-68 emulsification into butter, 4 -206 sous vide, 3-131
traditiona l. See traditional cooking Corriher, Shirley 0., 1-44 as emulsion, viscosity of, 4205 crisps
cooking times, food geometry and cotechino, parametric recipe for, emulsions and, 4221 Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4-304
estimates of, 1-279 3-236-237 heavy Gremolata Crisp, 5-60, 64
cooktop. See also burners; stove top Cotes-du-Rhone wine, early Greek gums added to, 4-102 Rice Crisp, 5-31, 32
for Modernist kitchen, 2-287 traders and, 112 organic food movement perception Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5-43,47
cookware. See also pans; pots; specific cottage cheese, parametric recipe for, of, 1-253 Crispy Beef Strands, 543, 44
types of cookware 4 -104 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4 -57 Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3-303
aluminum cottonseed oil, chemistry of, 2-126 hydrating LA gellan with, 4-124-125 Crispy Cauliflower plated-dish recipe,
conduction in, 1-280 coulant, of Michael Bras, 1-40 Instant Creme Fraiche, 457 5-281-283
heat capacity of, 1-278 Counter Culture Coffee, 4-361 Low Fat "Cream," 4-57 Crispy Corn Pudding, 5-101, 104
cast iron, 1-278, 280 Country Bread Crisps, 5-85, 86 as oil-in-water emulsion, 4 -199,201 Crispy Cream Cheese, 4 -63
ceramic, conductivity and, 1-277 Coupe-Set, 2-410 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, Crispy Dosa, 3355
conductivity of, 1-277-278 court bouillon, truite au bleu and, 3 -40 4-276 Crispy Duck Tongues, S-81, 84
cooling. See also chilling; chilling water Courtine, Robert (La Reyniere), 1-26 separating butterfat from, 2-366, 368 Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta Dumpling,
baths; cook-chill sous vide methods; covalent bonds, 1-296, 330 for set foams, parametric recipe for, 5-273,274
freezing; refrigeration; refrigerators covered sauteing, 2 -58-61 4-288-289 Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3334-335
evaporative chao technique and, 2-54 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4-100 Crispy Hay-Smoked Chicken plated-
humidity and, 1-319-320 cutaway illustration of, 2-60-61 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune dish recipe, 5-113-119
oven temperatures and, 2155 searing or glazing before, 2-58 Sabayon, 3-363 Crispy Okra, 5-90, 97
of hot food covering brine, for accelerating brining, whipped, hot and cold treatment for, Crispy Snapper Skin, 5-167, 168
food safety and, 1-205-206, 2-256, 3-166 4-244,248 Crispy Sweetbreads, 3-150
257 cow pumps, extruding gel noodles with, Whipped Butter, 4-286 critical point, in phase diagrams,
phase changes and, 1-290 4139 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato 1-302-303
starchy plants and, 3-280, 282 cow's milk. See also milk Chips, 4-287 critical temperature
vacuum-assisted allergies to, l-238 cream cheese bacterial replication rates and,
evaporation and, 1-321 cP (centipoise), 4-6 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 4-312 1-142- 143
phase changes in, 1290 CP Kelco, 4-40 Crispy Cream Cheese, 4-63 for freeze-drying, science of, 2-453
Copenhagen Pectin, 4-40 Creamed Spinach, 455 freeze-drying and, 2-444, 446
LXVIII INDEX
DASH I D
D
Crljenak Kastelanski grapes, 4-326 cryospherification, 4 -184 custard (continued)
crock pots, 2-240 Cryovac Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4-221
Cromesquis, 3-340 AGS system of vacuum packing and, Japanese (chawanmushi), parametric
crosnes, cooking sous vide, parametric 1-40 recipe for, 4 92
recipe for, 3-292 Raux, sous vide cooking and, 141 parametric recipe for, 484 D (decimal) level reductions
crosscontamination sous vide school and, 1-42,43 royale, parametric recipe for, 4 92 10 or 120, for sanitizing food, 1-148,
dirty gloves and, 1-200 cryptosporidiosis, 1-129 Salmon Custard, 4-119 149
E. coli 0157:H7 outbreakof2006 Cryptosporidium parvum, 1-129 Shellfish Custard, 4-162 of pathogens in food, 1-166, 168
and, 1-172 Crystallized Rose Petals, 3-368 cutaway illustrations Dacosta, Quique
food safety standards and, 1-168- 169 cucumber chips, parametric recipe for, of baked turkey, 2-104-105 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4-37
foodborne pathogens and, 1-166 3-328 ofbao technique of stir-frying, 2-55 Frozen White "Truffle" recipe,
gluten intolerance and, 1-239 cucumbers of boiling al'Anglaise, 2-64-65 3-400-401
UV powder for tracking, 1-201 compressing, parametric recipe for, of boiling-water canning, 2-82-83 Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam
crotch less portafilters, 4-385, 388, 398 3-390 of chao technique of stir-frying, recipe, 4-269
cruciferous vegetables. See also specific Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 2-56-57 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth
vegetables 5-94 of covered sauteing of vegetables, recipe, 4-273
blanching, 2-214 impregnating, parametric recipe for, 2-60-61 liquid nitrogen cooking by, 2-459
crustaceans. See also crabmeat; crabs; 3-390 of CVap water-vapor oven, 2-160-161 Modernist cuisine and, 157
crawfish; lobsters; prawns; shrimp Nukazuke, 3-354 of deep-frying, 1-89,2-118-119 "Into the Vegetable Garden" and,
biology of, 3-28-31 preserving, parametric recipe for, for depicting science of cooking, 3-294
cutting of, 3-52 3-348 1-84,88-89 Daguin, Andre, liquid nitrogen and,
Maillard reaction of, 3-87 Salted Cucumber, 5-233, 236 of espresso machine, 4-402-403 1-60-61, 62, 65
Cruz,Jordi, Olive Oil Noodles recipe, Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3-353 ofGirardet method, 2-24-25 Daguin, Ariane, 161
4 -146 Cuisine Solutions, 1-43, 2-265 of grilling, 2-8-9 daikon radishes, cooking sous vide,
cryoconcentration, of wine, 4330 Le Cuisinier Franfois (La Varenne, 1651), of heat loss from stove-top pots, 1-276 parametric recipe for, 3-289
cryoextraction, of wine, 2-396 1-8,9 of indirect grilling, 2-13 T11e Daily Cleveland Herald, 3-220
cryogenic freezing, 2-456-467, 471-473 cultures, bacterial, for fermented of meat grinder, 3-229 dairy brine, parametric recipe for, 3168
characteristics of, 2-456, 458 sausage, 3-246 of microwave oven, 2-186-187 dairy products. See also specific dairy
dry ice for, 2-458,464,466,471-473 curds. See proteins, curds of ofPacojet, 2-408-409 products
food flavor and, 2-261 Cured Beef Tenderloin "Bresaola Style," of pot-roasting, 2-94-95 emulsions, 4-218-229
ice crystal formation in freezers and, 3-185 of pressure-canning, 2-90-91 example recipes for, 4-219-221
2-257-258 Cured Ham Broth, 5-81, 84 of pressure-cooking stock, 2-293-294 foaming agents and, 4-251
liquid nitrogen for, 1-308, 2-456,458, cures of Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven, gels, 4-102-123
459,460-463 example recipes for, 3-176- 185, 5-17, 2-34-35 example recipes for, 4 -105-111,
safety with, 2-464, 466, 467 18, 43, 151 of sauteing, 2-46-47 114, 117, 120, 122
science of how liquid nitrogen boils parametric recipe for, 3-168-172 of searing a Ia plancha, 2-40-41 parametric recipe for, 4-116-117
and, 2-457 curing of souffle, 4-248-249 pasteurization of
tartares and raw meat preparation accelerating strategies for, 3-166-167, of steak frying in skillet, 372-73 FDA Food Code on, 1-187,188-189
with, 3-62 174-175 of steaming, 2-72-73 simplified cooking standards for,
cryogenics best bets for, 3-172 of stewing, 2-96-97 1-190, 191, 192
definition of, 2 -456 dry. See dry-curing of whipping siphon, 4 -261 smoking
late 19th-century research on, 1-60 drying with warm air and, 2-433 of wok stir-frying, 1-88,2-50-51 best bets for, 4-100
for quick freezing, 1-308 for food preservation, 3-152 cutting boards, kitchen hygiene and, parametric recipe for, 4100
cryogens, 2-456. See also dry ice; liquid functional ingredients for, 3-155 1-204 typical
nitrogen nitrates, nitrites, and nitrosamines cutting particles down to size. See fat content of, 5-XLIII
culinary life of, 1-60-66, 68, 70 and, 3-160 particle size reduction water content of, 5XL
safe handling of, 2-464, 466, 467 process of, 3-158, 160, 162, 165-166 cuttlefish Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4-283
spherification with, 4-184 ripening after, 3-167, 173 biology of, 3-24 Dal Pescatore, 1-28
suppliers of, 2-458 safety of, worrisome signs during, cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Dalton's law of partial pressures, 2-87
cryograting, how to, 2-461 3-164 for, 3-108 "danger zone," 1-175-179
cryopoaching salts for. See salts, curing Japanese cutting of, 3-52 microbial growth patterns and, 1-175
Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5-161, time and salt concentration for, 3-154 CVap water-vapor ovens misconceptions about, 1-175-176,
165 wet. See wet-curing bacon and eggs cooked in, 2-174-175 178-179
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4-291 curries. See also curry sauces cooking modes of, 2-155-156, 169 Salmonella growth and, 1-177
for Dippin' Dots, 1-61 for flavor and preservation, cooking strategies for, 2-170 Dan non yogurt
technique for, 2-460 3-196-197 cutaway illustration of, 2-160-161 for American tastes, 1-20-21
cryopowdering, how to, 2-461 Curry Oil, 2-331 forced convection in, 2159 as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1-22-23
cryorendering curry sauces heat and humidity control in, dark cutter meat, 3-35
of subcutaneous fat, 3-122 Goan Curry, 5-90,91,95 2-158-159 dark meat. See also red meat
before vacuum packing, 2-268 Kerala Curry, 5-90, 91, 96 improvement proposals for, 2-167 in chickens and turkeys, 3-12
cryosearing Masala Curry, 5-90, 91, 98 invention of, 2154 in ducks vs. chickens, 3-16-17
with dry ice, 2-464 Mughal Curry Sauce, 5-89, 90, 92 CWO (chronic wasting disease), 1-159 flavor of, 3-15
of duck breast, how to, 3-124-125 Muslim Curry Sauce, 5-89-91,93 cyanide in sedentary anima ls, 3-14
with liquid nitrogen, 2-456, 458 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3393 bitter almond aroma of, 3-262 DART 1 (Diet and Reinfarction Trial),
of skin and fat, 3-118 custard cassava cooking by South American 1-232
of subcutaneous fat, 3-122 Asparagus Royale, 4-94 natives and, 16 DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop
cryoshaping, how to, 2-463 Bone Marrow Custard, 5-60, 63 cyclamate, as banned additive, 1-252 Hypertension) trials, 1-234, 236, 237
cryoshattering Boudin Noir Custard, 5-125, 127 Cyclospora cayetanensis, 1-129 dashi
for coarseground sausage, 3 230 Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 4-142 cyclosporosis, 1-129 Bacon Dashi, 2-308
how to, 2 -463 Chawanmushi, 4 -96 cysteine, 389 Dashimaki Tamago, 4-94
of plant foods, to modify texture, Corn Custard, 4-122 cysticercosis, 1124 Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
3-374 Deep-Fried Custard, 4-120 cytochrome, 3-12, 94 Cinnamon Dashi, 4-118
for tartare, how to, 3-64 Gruyere Custard, 5-261, 264 Hon Dashi, 2-306, 5-197
INDEX LXIX
DASH I
dashi (continued) deep-frying (continued) Dewar, James, 1-60, 66 digestion

parametric recipe for, 2-304-305 thickness of food and, 2-127 Dewar flasks of caffeine, 4 -363
water vapor in, 2-115, 116-117, for liquid nitrogen storage, 2-458 of carbon dioxide, 2-464
dates
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 118- 119, 125 Marshall and demonstration of, 1-60 of raw plants, biology of, 3-269
for, 3-290 deer. See also venison safe handling of, 2-467 of starches, 4 -20
Date Puree, 5-121, 122 chronic wasting disease in, 1-159 venting, 2-466 digital scales
hunters of, CJD-Iike disease in, 1-161 DFD (dry firm dark), early rigor mortis gram-type, 194- 95
de Landa, Bishop Diego, ofYucatan,
defrost cycles, automatic, ice crystal and, 3 -35 for measuring hydrocolloids, 4-38
113
formation and, 2-258 DI (deionized) water, 1-335 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286
De re coquinaria. See Apicius
Degeimbre, Sang-boon espresso-making and, 4-384 pocket-type, for measuring
de Serres, Pierre
Freedom Cooking System of, 2-240 Lychee and Lime Soda recipe, 4-268 hydrating ion-coagulated gels and, thickeners, 423
sous vide at home and, 1-73 Modernist cu isine and, 1-70 4 -124, 125 digital thermometers
dehydrated foods, seasonal melanges for plant food cooking, 3-278 accuracy issues with, 1-206- 207
dealcoholization, in viticu lture, 4-331
with, 3-295 diabetes, vegan diet and, 1-244 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286
deaths
bacterial, 1-148-151 Dehydrated Garlic Chip, 5-43, 46 Diamond, Jared, 3 -268 for sous vide cooking, 2-240
pasteurization and sterilization for, dehydrating cabinets. See also drying diaphragm, as sausage binder, 3-222-223 for testing refrigerator hot and cold
1-149 features of, 2-431, 434-435 diarrhea spots, 2-257
thermal death curves of, 1-150- 151 dehydration. See drying bacterial dispersa l and, 1-134 diglycerides, 4 -216-217
human dehydrators pathogens causing, 1-114, 126, 138, dill
from botulism vs . toxoplasma, drying in, 2-430, 3-365 155 Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 5-161, 164
1-118 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286 traveler's, 1-129 Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5-161,
food borne illnesses and, 1-113 deionized (Dl) water, 1-335 Diaz del Castillo, Bernal, 1-13 165
from foodborne microorganisms, espresso-making and, 4-384 Dickens, Charles, 5-125 Dill Spheres, 4-130
hydrating ion-coagulated gels and, on partridge, 5-132 Dioscorides, Pedanius, 1-11
1-113
U.S. rates for foodborne illnesses 4-124,125 Diet and Reinfarction Trial (DART 1), Diphyllobothrium latum, 1-124
vs. other causes of, 1118 for plant food cooking, 3-278 1-232 dipole molecules, 1-330
decaffeinated coffee Delhasse, Anthony, 1-70 Dietary Approaches to Stop Dippin' Dots, 1-61, 72
delicata squash, cooking sous vide, Hypertension (DASH) trials, 1-234, discoloration, when cooking cured meat
espresso, temperature settings and,
parametric recipe for, 3289 236,237 or seafood, 3-165
4374, 385
Les De/ices de Ia Campagne (Bonnefons, dietary systems disease names, etymology of, 1-119
production process for, 1-256
1654), 1-9 dietary fiber in, 1-214-217 dish towels, cross-contamination and,
science of, 4-363
deliquescence, 2-428 medical, 1-222-239 1-200
decanting wine, 4-342-343
deception, culinary, 3-388-401 Demetrius ofPhalerum, 1-13 nonmedical, 1-240-249 disodium 5' guanylate, 3-160
denaturing as rules for eating, 1211 disodium S' inosinate, 3 -160
decoction, in coffee brewing, 4-364
deconstruction of collagen testing disease risk and, 1-218-221, dispersed phase
Adria on e!Bulli cooking and, as gelatin, 3-78 258 in emulsions, 4-199, 205
in living animals, 376 diets in foams, 4-243
1-37-38
holding at specific temperature as, of animals, meat tenderness and, 311 ratio of continuous phase to, 4 -205
Blumenthal on, 1-51
Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3-321 2-247 Atkins, 1-242 dispersing
Deep-Fried Cauliflower, 5-281, 283 of proteins, foaming and, 4244 colorectal cancer and, 1-214-217 approaches to, 4-20, 22
Denia, 1-57 DART 1, 1-232 of cellulosic gums, 4127
Deep-Fried Custard, 4-120
Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4-228 Denominazione di Origine Controllata DASH, 1-234, 236, 237 ofhydrocolloids
(DOC), 4 332 detox, 1-248 for gelling, 4 -124
deep-frying, 2-116-127
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e fat in. See fat, dietary for thickening, 4-38
baking compared with, 2-116-117
batter coating for, 2-122, 127 Garantita (DOCG), 4 -332 fiber in. See fiber, dietary of thickeners, how to, 4-24
after cooking sous vide, 2-271 density, heat capacity of cookware and, grapefruit, 1-240-241 dissolved materials. See also solubility
crust and, 2-122- 123 1-278 LEARN, 1-242 boiling point and, 1-318
cutaway illus tration of, 1-89, dental vibrator tray, for espresso low-carbohydrate, 1-242 freezing and, 1304-305
tamping, 4 -380 low-fat, 1-241 reductions of, 411
2-118-119
equipment for, 2-287 deoxymyoglobin, 393 Mediterranean, 1232, 241, 242 distillation, 2-384-394
factors affecting oil coating of foods deposition Shangri-La, 1-241 example recipes for, 2-389
definition of, 1-326 South Beach, 1-242 Genevac Rocket Evaporator for,
and, 2-127
foam forming with, 4-258 sublimation vs., 1-329 Spectrum, 1-242 2-391-395
derivatives, mathematical, definition of, vegan, 1-244 invention of, 2 -390
food size for, 2-117
greasiness with, avoiding, 2-125, 127 2-230 weight loss, 1-240-241 for purifying water, 1335
heat conduction in, 2 -117 desiccants, food drying and, 2-428 differential scanning calorimeter rotary evaporator for, 2-384-391
heat transfer coefficient of, 1-283 desiccation zone (DSC), 1-268 U.S. laws on, 1-94, 2-384,391
high-pressure, 2-120-121 in baking, 2-107, 108 diffusion vacuum, 2-380. See also rotary
in steak frying, 3-74 accelerating in brining or curing, evaporators
multistep, 2-122-123
oil used for desiccators, vacuum 3-166-167 DNA
drying plants foods with, 3-365 in alcohol-based marinades, 3195, testing genetic origins of grapes
age of, 2-127
chemistry of, 2-126 features of, 2-433, 436-437 198 usi ng, 4 -326, 327
foam forming with, 4310 in brining, 3-154, 156,158 in viruses, 11 52
fresh, 2-123
new, breaking in, 2-123 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286 in curing, 3-154, 160, 162, 164, 165 DOC (Denominazione di Origine
repeated use of, 2-123-125 dessert trolleys in drying with salt and sugar, 3-346 Control/ala), 4-332
smoking of, 2-124 disappearance from e!Bulli of, 1-35 Fick"s law of, 2-283, 290, 343 DOCG (Denomi11azione di Origin<
temperature of, 2-116, 122, 123, plated desserts vs., 1-25 in marinating, 3-190 Controllata e Garantita), 4-332
127 detergents, as surfactants, 4-202 of water through food, drying Don't Forget Fiber in Your Diet (Burkitt),
overloading deep fryer and, 2-125 detox diets, 1-248 actions and, 2428 1-2 14
under pressure, 2-120-121 Deviled Eggs, 4-81 ditfusivity, thermal doorknobs, personal hygiene and, 1-200
precooking food sous vide for, 2-123 dew point, 1-325,2-154 in cookware, 1-278 dose standard, for espresso shots, 4 -380
on psychrometric charts, how to of foods and various materials, dosing, in espresso-making, 4-378, 380
stages of, 2-116-117
read, 1-323 1-280-281 double ristretto, evolution of, 4379
surface roughness offood and, 2 -127
LXX INDEX
EGG WH ITES E
E
double stocks, 2.2.90 drying (continued) duck stock, parametric recipe for,
double-blind trials in combi oven, convection mode for, 2.2.96-2.98
for nutritional studies, 12.18-2. 19 2. 168 duck tongue
in wine tasting, 4-340, 342 crisping skin and, 312.3 cooking of, 3141
double-disc mills, 2.-404 desiccants and, 2. 42.8 sous vide, parametric recipe for, East Texas BBQSauce, 566, 69
Dover sole, aging effects on, 3 -40 desiccation zone and 3146 Eating Quality Assured beef-grading
DQcuring salt, 3158 in baking, 2.107, 108 Crispy Duck Tongues, 581, 84 system, Australia, 3 -39
draft, fire and, 2.7 in steak frying, 374 Duffy, Curtis, 169 echinoderms, 330
drag, convection baking and, 2-110 equipment for, 2.2.86 Dufresne, Wylie ecograstronomy, of Slow Food, 12.3
dragon fruit, compressing and freeze-drying and. See freeze-drying Achatz's meal at elBulli and, 138, 52. Ecole de La Varenne, 432.2.-32.5
impregnating, parametric recipe for, by hunter-gatherers, 16 Aerated Foie Gras recipe, 4311 ecological studies, of nutrition, 1220
3390 liquid smoke and, 2.149 Almond Polenta recipe, 436 Edamame Sheets, King Crab,
draining, in foams, 4249 of meat and seafood, 3152.-189 Avocado Puree recipe, 5 2.05, 2.07 Cinnamon Dashi, 4118
Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine, of plant foods, 3365-373 Barbecued Eel with Whipped edge sealers, 2.2.2.2.- 2.2.4
5 2.67, 2.70 progressive smoking and, 2.148 Caramel recipe, 42.83 chamber sealers vs ., 2222
dried fermented sausages, 3 2.46, 2.50 rehydration and, physics of, 132.1 Beignet of Sauce Ravigote recipe, common problems with, 2.2.2.3
drip coffee maker, automatic, 4368 ripening of cured meat or seafood 549,51 for Modernist kitchen, 2.2.84
drippings and, 3173 Cheese Puffs recipe, 4305 rigid containers and, 2.2.2.6-2.2.7
flares from, aluminum foil in grills with salt and sugar, 3344, 346, 348 cold gels and, 4 140, 144 vacuum packing with, 2.224
and, 2.15 spray-drying and, 2.438-443 Corn Pebbles recipe, 4 36 Edible Bar Soap with Honey Bubbles,
flavor of grilled food and, 2.12. equipment for, 2.2.85, 430 Crispy Cream Cheese recipe, 463 4 2.67
dry boxes, 2.431, 434-435 . See also method for, 2.442. Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta "edible earth
drying strategies for, 2.430 Dumpling recipe, 52.73, 2.74 Edible Earth, 437
dry firm dark (DFD), early rigor mortis tapeworms and, 112.4 critics on, 1-63 Redzepi and, 32.94
and, 335 vacuum-assisted, 132.1, 2.2.15 Deep-Fried Hollandaise recipe, edible films, 46
dry ice, 2.458 vacuum-drying and, 2.430, 433, 4 2.2.8 best bets for, 4 60
carbonating fruit with, 2.472. 436-437 on dehydrating fruits and vegetables, Edible Wrappers, 462.
carbonating liquids with, 2.-464 with warm air, 2.431-433, 434-435 3-366 parametric recipe for, 4-60
freezing using, 1310, 311 DSC (differential scanning Edamame Sheets, King Crab, edible glasses, 46
safe handling of, 2.464, 466 calorimeter), 12.68 Cinnamon Dashi recipe, 4118 dehydrating form ula for, 3367
sublimation and, 132.6 Ducasse, Alain Edible Earth recipe, 437 Pineapple Glass, 3370
suppliers of, 2.458 Asparagus Royale recipe, 494 Egg Salad Sandwich recipe, 4 90 Spiced Honey Glass, 5 12.1, 12.3
truffles, storing with, 2471 Gras, Laurent and, 1-69 Fermented Shrimp Sheets recipe, eel
dry process, for coffee, 4358 Jus de Ia Presse recipe, 2. 347 5167, 168 Barbecued Eel with Whipped
dry rubs on Modernist cuisine, 1-63 freeze filtration and, 2.369 Caramel, 42.83
basic, parametric recipe for, 3 169 New International cuisine and, 1-30, Gruyere Spheres recipe, 4190 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
best bets for, 3168, 169 31 Hanger Steak Tartare recipe, 365 for, 3102.
functional ingredients in, 3155 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Horseradish Foam recipe, 4-284 efficiency
Kansas Rub, 566, 68 Marmalade and Porcini recipe, Instant Tofu Noodles recipe, 4172. energy, power and, 12.74- 2.76
Memphis Rub, 566, 68 397 Knot Foie recipe, 4144 heat transfer coefficient and, 12.83
parametric recipe for, 3168-172. sous vide cooking and, 1-42 Modernist cuisine and, 1-62, 67, 69 Egg Blossom, 480
sweet, parametric recipe for, 3-169 duck molded egg yolk tubes of, 490-91 egg emulsions, example recipes for,
dry-aging meat, 341 brining, parametric recipe for, 3-172 Popcorn Pudding recipe, 4181 42.2.6-2.2.9
how to, 342. cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Skate Pave with Bread Crust recipe, egg gels, 474-101
dry-bulb temperature for, 399, 108 5157 blended
braising or pot-roasting in ovens cryorendering before vacuum So us Vide Duck Ham, 585, 87 best bets for, 492.
and, 2.96 packing, 2. 2.68 Steingarten on, 165 parametric recipe for, 4-92
consistent baking and, 2.111 cryosearing, how to, 312.4-12.5 Sunny-Side Up "Eggs" and, example recipes for, 4 80-81, 83,
in CVap water-vapor oven, curing, parametric recipe for, 3172 14148-149 86-91, 93-99, 101
2,.158- 159 Duck Apicius plated-dish recipe, dulse, 52.8 parametric recipe for, 4116-117
in deep-frying, 2.116 512.1-12.3 dumplings. See also gnocchi separated
ordinary ovens and, 2 155 Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Buckwheat Pelmeni, 52.33, 2.37 best bets for, 4 85
preheating to, 2. 103 Leaf, 5109, 110 Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta parametric recipe for, 485
on psychrometric charts, how to Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Dumpling, 52.73, 2.74 Egg Salad Sandwich, 490
read, 132.3 Sarladaises, 3178 Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4 105 egg white custard, parametric recipe for,
in Rational combi oven, 2.164-165 foie gras and. See foie gras soup, about, 52.54 4 85
relative humidity and, 132.2. meat color of chicken vs., 316-17 Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), egg whites
smoking and, 32.11 Moulard, for foie gras production, 4 117, 5 55, 59 droplets of, parametric recipe for,
wet-bulb temperature vs., 2.96, 102., H38 Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 4 85
106,112. Sous Vide Duck Con fit Pave, 5 81, 4169 as fining agents, 2.358-360
dry-curing 82. Dunlop, Fuchsia, Gong Baa Chicken for fluid gels, 4176
equilibrium, 3165 Sous Vide Duck Ham, 585, 87 recipe, 32.05 foams formed from, 42.47
for food preservation, 3152. duck eggs Durand, Peter, 2.75 Fried Egg Foam, 5 2.11, 2.12.
osmosis and, 3154 Century Egg, 483 Durand-Rue!, Paul, 119 Instant Swiss Meringue, 42.84
salinity for, 3160 Liquid Center Duck Egg, 52.19, 2.2.0 dynamic viscosity, 4-6 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake,
dryers, vacuum, 2.430, 433, 436-437 duck fat, chemistry of, 2. 12.6 4 2.94
dry-grinding, equipment for, duck foie gras. See foie gras with myosin for meat glue, 32.50
2. 401-402., 404, 407 Duck Leg Con fit with Pommes proteins of, as foaming agent, 42.44
drying, 2.42.8-455. See also curing Sarladaises, 3 178 for set foams, parametric recipe for,
in baking, stages of, 2.106-108 duck skin 42.88-2.89
characteristics of, 2 -428 how to precook, 382. Siphoned Souffle a Ia Lorraine, 4 2.97
with cold, dry air, 132.6, 32.8 leaving extra during butchery of, Steamed Blancmange, 4 2.96
in cold-smoking, 2.143 3116, 118
IN 0 EX LXX I
E EGG WHITES
egg whites (continued) eggs (continued) elastin emulsions (cor~tinued)

texture of, temperature and, faux in abalone and cuttlefish membranes, nanoemulsions as, 4238-239
476-77 "Poached" Egg, 4195 352 example recipes for, 4 238-239
as thermo-irreversible gels, 4-70 Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg," in gizzards, 3141 science of, 4205
egg yolks 4194 in heart meat, 3-142 optics of, physics of, 4203
Basic Mayonnaise, 4226, 5 233 FDA Food Code on, 1184, 185- 186, elBulli. See also Adria, Ferran other types of, example recipes for,
Cauliflower Creme Anglaise, 4 89 187 first meal at, experience of, 138-39 4 230-235
Con fit Egg-Yolk Puree, 5147, 148 Salmone/la and, 1-183, 185 Modernist cuisine and, 133-40 particle size reduction for, 2-398
Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4228 FDA safe cooking standards for, 1170 elBullitaller, 135 reductions of, 4-11
droplets of, parametric recipe for, fluid gel properties of, 416 Elder Flower Vinegar, 2315 science of, 4200, 202, 204-205
485 fluid gels based on, 4176 electric broilers stabilizers for, 4 215
Dufresne's molded tubes of, 490-91 development of, 166, 68 wood-fired ovenlike performance for thickening, 47
Egg Salad Sandwich, 490 parametric recipe for, 4 -177 by, 226-27 thickening and longevity of, 4 5
Egg Yolk Confit, 5211, 213 foam forming with, 4247, 251,255 working features of, 220-21 tools for, 4208
for fluid gels, 4 176 Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5247, 250 electric coils, efficiency of, 1-2 74 types of, 4199
parametric recipe for, 4-177 freezedrying, parametric recipe for, electric fields vinaigrettes as, 4230-231
Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5247, 250 2451 strong, to kill bacteria, 1149 viscosity and, 4 204-205
Gruyere Souffle, 4 301 French Scrambled Eggs, 4 93 wine storage and, 4-345 wet-grinding and, 2412
for light foams, parametric recipe fried, twostage, parametric recipe electric griddles, 240 emulsionstyle sausages
for, 4270 for, 485 electric whisk, foam forming with, best bets for, 3238-239
Parmesan Creme Bnilfe, 4-88 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 495 4259 characteristics of, 3222, 225
proteins of, as foaming agent, 4244 Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4227 electric whisks, foam forming with, Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel,
Sauce Allemande, 488 hot-spring (onsen), 475 4258 3248
Scrambled Egg Foam, 5215, 216 parametric recipe for cooking, 4-78 elements, physics of color indicators of example recipes for, 3242-243
for set foams, parametric recipe for, L'Arpege egg, 5211 temperature and, 1-291 grinding fat and meat separately for,
4288-289 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4 180 elk 3231
as sliceable gel, 474 Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5219, 220 chronic wasting disease in, 1-159 parametric recipe for, 3238-239
parametric recipe for, 4 -85 marinated in vinegar, 4-75 hunters, CJD-like disease in, 1161 endemic pathogens, 1110
Smoked Potatoes with Vinjaune Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4 87 emetic agents, Bacillus cereus as, 1-138 endive, cooking sous vide, parametric
Sabayon, 3363 Omelet Base, 5215, 217 emission spectra recipe for, 3289
Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, omelets in combi oven vs. of blackbodies, 1285 endomysium, 3-6
4228 conventional oven, 4-95 physics of temperature and, 1291 energy. See also heati temperature
Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4227 pasteurization of, 1191, 4226 emissivity in animal fat, 318
Steamed Blancmange, 4296 FDA Food Code and, 1185 of graybodies, 1286 converting power units and, 1-273
as surfactant emulsifiers, 4-226 pasteurized, parametric recipe for of radiation, 1285 defining, 1264
temperature, and texture of, 4 76-77 cooking, 478 Em mental cheese, Restructured efficiency and, 1274-276
Eggless Citrus Curd, 4234, 5157 peeling with liquid nitrogen, how to, Em mental Slices, 511, 14 heat and, 1263
Egg less Mayonnaise, 4232 478 emulsification . See also emulsifiers; internal, 1264-265
eggplant pickled emulsions; emulsionstyle sausages of phase changes by water,
compressing, parametric recipe for, best bets for, 482 Bancroft's rule on order for, 4202 1300-303
3390 parametric recipe for, 4-82 mechanism of action, 4-200,202, power and, 1272-273
Eggplant Foam, 4280 plated-dish recipes for, 5209-221 204-205 enfleurage
impregnating, parametric recipe for, poaching, physics of stirring pot for thickening, 2346, 4 19 for flavor extraction, 2-320
3390 before, 267 emulsifiers. See also emulsificationi solids as solvents in, 1-330
preserving, parametric recipe for, preserved emulsions technique of, 2323
3348 best bets for, 482 characteristics of, 4 -200 England . See also United Kingdom
smoking, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 4-82 in deep-frying oil, 2123, 125 early gastronomy of, 18
3362 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4 97 eggs as, 474 history of French chefs in, 18
Stuffed Smoky Braised Eggplant, safe cooking principles for, 1194 immiscible substances and, l-332 medieval cuisine in, 1-12
599 salmonella contamination of, 1-117 oils and, 413 English peas. See green peas
eggplant chips, parametric recipe for, as sausage binders, 3223 surfactant, 4 216-217, 244 enoki mushrooms
3328 Scrambled Egg Foam, 5215, 216 emulsions, 4 196-239. See also Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu
eggs, 483 . See also duck eggs; egg gels; simplified cooking standards for, emu lsification; emulsifiers with Yuba and Enoki, 5197, 203
egg whites; egg yolks; quail eggs 1192 Black Butter Emulsion, 5157, 158 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
allergies to, 1238 smoked, parametric recipe for, 4-100 butter in, 4218-220 for, 3289
baked, two-stage, parametric recipe Smoked Egg Creme Caramel, 4101 cheese as, 4222-225 Entamoeba histolytica, 1129
for, 485 Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic common, 4-201 enteritis necroticans, 1-141
baked-good foams and, 4245 Emulsion, 4227 constructed creams and, 4236-237 enthalpy, 1300-301. See also latent heat
boiled, 263 textures of, 476-77 dairy, 4218-229 of vaporization
Chawanmushi, 4 96 thickening with, 413 example recipes for, 4219-221 envelope, of viruses, 1-152
cold-smoked, parametric recipe for, volumetric equivalents for amounts definition of, 4 13 environmental contamination, 1-116,
4100 of, 5XLIV droplet sizes in, 4206 117
cooked whole, 4 74-75 Eggs Benedict, 4 86 egg, 4226 Enviro-Pak smoker, 2147
parametric recipe for, 478-79 eGullet.org, 173 example recipes for, 4226-229, enzymes
Cromesquis, 3340 Egypt, ancient 5233 aging meats and, 339, 41
Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4228 foie gras production in, 113, 3136 failure of, 4210-212 carbonation taste and, 2-465
Deviled Eggs, 481 food-related professions in, 17 foams vs., 4249 clarifying juice or broth with, 2352
Dufresne's obsession with, 1-67 Herodotus on beans in, 1-12 G/ W (gas-in-water) . See foam s cooking meat and seafood and, 376,
Egg Blossom, 480 Horchata drinks in, 459 HLB values and, chemistry of, 4204 78-79
Egg Salad Sandwich, 488 locust bean gum used in, 4124 of immiscible substances, 1-332 as fining agents, 2358
Eggs Benedict, 486 Einstein, Albert, 1264 methods for, 4 206-213 freezing to halt action of, 3136, 140
emulsions of, 4226-229 Ekman pumping, phenomenon of, 267 microemulsions as, 4-205 fruit flavors and, 2338
fat content of, 5.XLIII elasticity, gel selection and, 473 Modernist, 4214-239 as gel coagulants, 470
LXX II INDEX
EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOK ING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE E
enzymes (continued) Escoffier, Auguste espresso machines (continued) example recipes for acidifiers
gelling agents from, 4-126 aspics of, 4 -68 cutaway illustration of, 4 -402-403 Elder Flower Vinegar, 2-315
juice extraction with, 2-335, 336 chaudfroid and, 4 -151 hand-operated vs. electric, 4-372 Seaweed Vinegar, 2-315
in liver, 3 -138 culinary rules and codes of, 15, 9, for Modernist kitchen, 2-287 example recipes for batter-frying
for marinating, 3-195 19-20,27 pressure profiling and, technology The Colonel's Chicken, 3-336
in plant foods, 3-282-284 on food presentation, 125 of,4-400 Crispy Halibut Cheek, 3334-335
protein-splitting, in crustaceans, introducing Modernist cuisine to, Synesso, 4-372, 374 Modernist Fried Chicken, 3-337
3-28 1-56-57 Espresso Vivace, 4-374, 396, 398, 399 example recipes for breading
thickening with, 4-13, 19 meat embedded in gelatin by, 3-250 essences, aromatic, 2 -318-331. See also Cromesquis, 3-340
transglutaminase as . See Activa; Sauce Allemande recipe, 4-88 extracting flavors Onion Rings, 3-342-343, 5-11
transglutaminase stockmaking by, 2 -288 in alcohol, best bets for, 2-326 example recipes for broths
Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 3357 escolar best bets for, 2-325 Bacon Dashi, 2-308
epidemiology, nutritional, 1-218-220 about, 5-175 citrus oil, how to wash, 2321 Baked Potato Broth, 2-309
epimysium, 36 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe enlleurage and, 2-323 Bouillabaisse Broth, 2-308
equilibrium for, 3-102 extracting, 2-318, 320 Ham Broth, 2-306
drying with salt and sugar and, Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 3-104 high quality, 1-250, 252 Han Dashi, 2-306, 5-197
3346 Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard, natural, safe handling of, 2-324 Laksa Broth, 2-307
thermal, cooking eggs to, 4-74, 75 5-175, 176 rotavap for distillation of, Oxtail Pho Broth, 2-307
thermal energy transfer and, 1-266 espresso, 4-372-390 2-384-391 So us Vide Vegetable Stock, 2-303
equilibrium brining, 3 -158 art of milk and, 4-391-395 supercritical fluid extraction of, Tom Yum Broth, 2-309
how to, 3170-171 brewing temperature for, skill for 2-320 example recipes for carbonating
equilibrium cooking choosing, 4-385 working with, 2-322 Orange Soda, 2-472
in combi ovens, 2167 consistency in, 4 -396-403 essential oils. See also essences, aromatic Strawberry Milk Shake, 2-473,5-11
in water bath at core temperature, cooking with, technique of, 4-371 for brining or curing, 3-158 example recipes for centrifugal
2-243 crema on commercial uses for, 2 318 evaporator, Mock Turtle Soup, 2-394
equilibrium dry-curing, 3-165 age of roasted coffee beans and, steam distillation of, 2 -318, 320 example recipes for centrifuging
equilibrium relative humidity, 2430 4 -361 Estragues, Sergi, 4 -184 Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 2-365,
equilibrium vapor pressure, 1320 carbon dioxide and, 4-384 ethanol. See alcohol (ethanol); spirits; 5-185
equilibrium wet-curing, 3-162, 165 chemistry of, 4-388 specific alcoholic beverages Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2-367
how to, 3-170-171 crotch less portafilters for, ethics, of copying dishes, 1-71 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil,
equipment. See also tools; specific types of advantages of, 4 -385 ethyl alcohol. See alcohol (ethanol); 2-367
equipment; specific tools decaffeinated coffee beans and, spirits; specific alcoholic beverages Tomato Water, 2-366, 5-5, 60
for broiling, 2-20-22 4-363 ethylene gas, fruit ripening and, example recipes for compressed and
for carbonation, 2-286 dosing of, 4-378, 380 3-283-284,285 impregnated fruits and vegetables
chilling, for water baths, 2-285 God shot of. See God shot Ettore Majorana Foundation and Clay Potatoes, 3-398
deep-frying, 2-287 grinding beans for. See coffee beans, Center for Scientific Culture, Compressed Melon Terrine, 3-392
dry-grinding, 2-401-402, 404 grinding for espresso; espresso 1-44- 46,65 Curry-Impregnated Apple, 3-393
drying, 2-286 grinders Europe. See also European Unioni Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3-399
for foams, 4 -258-261 grooming porta filter for. See specific countries Frozen White "Truffie," 3-400-401
freeze-drying, 2 -285 grooming espresso porta filters lack of meat-grading system in, 3-36, Pulled Mushroom, 3-396
juicing, 2-332-335 instant, 4-371 39 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto,
laboratory, local laws in U.S. on, invention of, history of, 4372 European Union 3-397
1-94 in Italy, sociology of, 4 -374 on food safety, 1-182 Vegetable Coals, 3-395
milling, 2-401-402,404. See also machines for making. See espresso food safety disclaimer rules of, 1-178 Watermelon Meat, 3394, 5-285
colloid mills machines trade dispute on food products and, example recipes for consomme
pressure filtration, 2-286 Northern Italian roast of beans for, 1-173 Apple Cider Consomme, 2-377
sieving, 2-286 4 -360 evaporation, 1-314-325. See also water Oxtail Consomme, 2-376
smoking, 2-146-147,285,3-208 pod and capsule systems for, vapor Pistachio Consomme, 2-376
sous vide, 2-228-241 technology of, 4-400 adding cream to coffee and, 1-289 example recipes for constructed cheeses
for home use, 1-73 pressure profiling and, technology during baking, 2-103, 107 The American Cheese Slice, 4-224
spray-drying, 2-285, 430 of, 4 -400 blowing on hot food and, 1-288 Cheddar Soup, 4-225
tenderizing, 2-286 pulling the shot and, 4-384, 388 boiling and, 1-315-319 Cheese in a Tube, 4-225
used in Modernist Cuisine, 1-93 common problems with, 4-389 concentrating by, 2-379 Cheesy "Whiz," 4-225
vacuum filtration, 2-286, 356-357 how to, 4-386-387 definition of, 1-314 example recipes for constructed creams
wet-grinding, 2-412-414 serving temperature of, 4364 with Genevac Rocket Evaporator, Hazelnut "Cream," 4 -236
erg, 1-272 single, double, and triple shots of, 2-391-395 Jus Gras, 4-237
Erice Conferences on Molecular and evolution of, 4-379 humidity and, 1319-321 Pistachio Gelato, 4-236
Physical Gastronomy, 1-44-46, 65 stream of, monitoring, 4384, 387, meat tenderness lost in braising or example recipes for cooking innards
erobertparker.com, 4-330 388 pot-roasting and, 2-98 Ankimo Torchon, 3-147
escabeche, Oyster Escabeche, 5-205, tamping and as reduction, 4 11 Crispy Sweetbreads, 3150
206 evenly, how to, 4 -382 steam and, 1-319 Foie Gras and Button Mushroom
Escherich, Theodor, 1-112 reasons for, 4-383-384 vacuum Tart, 3-148
Escherichia coli, 1-116, 134, 137 taxonomy of, 4-393 for concentrating flavor, 2380 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
Escherichia coli 0157:H7 tradition of, in cooking, 114 for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes, and Sea Lettuce, 3-149
foodborne illnesses and, 1-118- 119 Espresso Coffee: Professional Techniques 2-346 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango
outbreak of2006, politics of, 1-172 (Schomer), 4-399 of wine, 4-330 Powder and Shiitake, 3151
pathogenicity of, 1-132 espresso con panna, 4393 vacuum packing and, 2-213,215 example recipes for cooking plant foods
public health officials on outbreak of, espresso grinders evaporative cooling under pressure
1-169-170 how to use, 4-377 humidity and, 1-319-320 Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3-302
temperature for reproduction of, for Modernist kitchen, 2-287 oven temperatures and, 2-155 Caramelized Carrot Soup, 3-301
1-143,144 espresso machines evapotranspiration, winemaking and, Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3-303
wine marinade with oregano and, automatic brewing option of, 4 -384 4 -329 Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds,
1-145 cleaning, how to, 4-397 Everything Bagel Broth, 4-130 3-303, 5-181
INDEX LX X Ill
E EXAMPLE RECIPES FOR COOKING SKIN
example recipes for cooking skin example recipes for egg emulsions example recipes for fluid gels (continued) example recipes for hydrocolloid gels
Monkfish with Constructed Skin, Bacon Jam, 4-229 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4-180 (continued)
3-132 Basic Mayonnaise, 4 -226, S-233 Onion Fluid Gel, 4 -183 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Puffed Chicken Feet, 3-133 Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4-228 Parmesan "Polenta," 4181 Hibiscus Glaze, 4 -158- 159
Puffed Cockscomb, 3 -133 Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4 -227 Passion Fruit Jelly, 4 -180 Guinness "Pate de Fruit," 4 145
Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Popcorn Pudding, 4-181 Halibut in Verbena Bubble,
3-134-135 Emulsion, 4-227 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4 -183 4 -156-157
example recipes for cooking with moist Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, example recipes for freezedried Hot Banana Gel, 4-166
air 4 -228 vegetables Hot Green Apple Gel, 4-166
Cantonese Fried Rice, 2-176-177 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4 -227 Caesar Salad, 3-373 Hot Orange Gel, 4-167
Combi Oven Rib Eye, 2-180 example recipes for egg gels Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3-373, Hot Quince Gel, 4-167, 5-121
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, Asparagus Royale, 4-94 5-261 Instant Tofu Noodles, 4-172
2-181 for blended egg gels, 4 -93-99 example recipes for freeze-drying Knot Foie, 4144
example recipes for cures Cauliflower Creme Anglaise, 4-89 Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4 -141
Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Century Egg, 4-83 2-454 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin,
Apple, and Thyme, 3-189 Chawanmushi, 4 -96 Ramen Stock Powder, 2-455 4-175
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, Chorizo French Toast, 498-99 Ramen Vegetables, 2-455, 5-247 Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4-147
3-183 for cooked whole eggs, 4-80-81 Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2-454, Olive Oil Noodles, 4-146
Confit Cure Mix, 3-179 Dashimaki Tamago, 4-94 S-185 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4174
Cured Beef Tenderloin "Bresaola Deviled Eggs, 4 -81 example recipes for froths, airs, and Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito
Style," 3185 Egg Blossom, 4-80 bubbles Stock Veil, 4-168
Duck Leg Con fit with Pommes Egg Salad Sandwich, 4-90 Cappuccino Foam, 4-266 Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4 -155
Sarladaises, 3-178 Eggs Benedict, 4-86 Citrus Air, 4-265 Shellfish Custard, 4 -162
Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3-181 French Scrambled Eggs, 4-93 Edible Bar Soap with Honey Squid Ink Fluid Gel, 4-131
Foie Gras Torchon, 3-176 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4-95 Bubbles, 4-267 Sunny-Side Up "Eggs," 4-148-149
Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3-180 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 4-87 Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4-266 Sweet Pea Clusters, 4-173
House-Cured Bacon, 3-182,5 -17, 18 Olive Marmalade, 4-99 Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Two Meter Parmesan Spaghetto,
Microwaved BeefJerky, 3-184, 5-43 Parmesan Creme Bnilee, 4-88 Foam,4-269 4-143
Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3179 Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Lychee and Lime Soda, 4 -268 example recipes for hydrocolloid
Salted Halibut, 3-187, 5-151 Cedar, 4 -101 Oysters with Mignonette Air, 4-265 thickeners
Sea Urchin Bottarga, 3-186 Pickled Quail Eggs, 4 -83 example recipes for fruit and vegetable BBQCaramels, 4-62
Seafood Paper, 3188 for preserved and pickled eggs, 4-83 chips Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,
Shaved Foie Gras, 3-177 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4-97 Restructured Potato Chips, 3-330 4-54
example recipes for dairy and tofu gels Sauce Allemande, 4-88 Watermelon Chips, 3-328 Caramelized Coconut Cream, 450
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4 -121 for separated egg gels, 4 -86-91 example recipes for fruit purees, Creamed Spinach, 455
Corn Custard, 4122 Smoked Egg Creme Caramel, 4101 Pistachio Puree, 2-427 Crispy Cream Cheese, 4 -63
Deep-Fried Custard, 4-120 for smoked eggs, 4-101 example recipes for frying vegetables Edible Wrappers, 4 -62
Edamame Sheets, King Crab, example recipes for emulsion-style Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 3321 Ham Consomme with Melon Beads,
Cinnamon Dashi, 4 -118 sausages Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3324 4-48
Firm Tofu, 4-112 Boudin Blanc, 3-243 Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3-323 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4-57
Flourless Gnocchi, 4-119 Frankfurters, 3-242 Starch-Infused Fries, 3-324 Horchata (C hufa Milk), 4 -59
Fresh Cheese Curds, 4 -106-107 Italian Sausage, 3 -242 Starch Infused Ultrasonic Fries, House Barbecue Sauce, 449, S-67
Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4-105 example recipes for extracting flavor 3-325 Instant Creme Fraiche, 4-57
Goat Milk Ricotta, 4-108 with alcohol Ultrasonic Fries, 3-325, 5-11 Lemon Strips, 4-61
Green Pea Yuba, 4 -115 Fines Herbes Extract, 2-327 example recipes for grinding, milling, Low Fat "Cream," 457
Idiazabal Gnocchi, 4-123 House Bitters, 2-327 and pureeing Olive Oil Spread, 4-51
Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and example recipes for fermented sausage Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2-403 Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
Truffie Puree, 4 -114 Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3 -247 Citrus Spice, 2-404 Strawberry Marinara, 450
Modernist Burrata, 4 -109 Saucisson Sec, 3-247 Exotic Spice Mixture, 2-405 Soy Milk, 458
Mozzarella Balloons, 4-110-111 example recipes for fish and shellfish Indies Spice Blend, 2-403 Toasted Almond Milk, 4-59
Peanut "Tofu," 4-122 so us vide Licorice Powder, 2-405 Toasted Rice Milk, 4-59
Salmon Custard, 4119 Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 3 -104 Quatre Epices, 2403, 535, 125 Tomato Whey Broth, 449
Silken Tofu, 4 -113 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Ras el Hanout, 2-405 Truffie Jus, 4-53
Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), Milk, 3-103 Romesco Sauce, 2419 Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
4-117, 555, 59 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Shrimp and Grits, 3-377 Salad, 453
example recipes for dairy emulsions Sherry and Cocoa, 3-107 example recipes for hot- and cold- White Grape Syrup, 4-52
Beet Flexicurd, 4-219 Shrimp Cocktail, 3-107 smoked meats and seafood XO Sauce, 4-52
Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3-213 example recipes for infusing essences,
Butter, 4220 Salad, 3-106 Russian Smoked Salmon, 3-212 Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2-321
Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4-221 Turbot with Onion and Marrow Smoked Octopus, 3-215 example recipes for juicing
Poached Lobster, 4-219 Broth, 3-105 example recipes for hydrocolloid gels Green Asparagus and Morels with
Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4-219 example recipes for flavor infusion into Agar Carbonara, 4-161 Asparagus Jus, 2-341
example recipes for dehydrated fruits fats Boeufin Gelee, 4-163 Melon Water, 2340
and vegetables Curry Oil, 2331 Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 4142 Meyer Lemonade, 2-340
Crystallized Rose Petals, 3-368 Molasses Butter, 2-331 Chili Pearls, 4145 Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2-340
Mandarin Leather, 3-369 Shellfish Butter, 2-329 for cold gels, 4 -141-149 example recipes for jus
Pineapple Glass, 3-370 So us Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2-330 Crimini in Amber, 4154 Jus de Ia Presse, 2-347
Spinach Paper, 3-369 Spiced Chili Oil, 2-330 Dill Spheres, 4-130 Lamb Garlic Jus in aJar, 2-348,5-25
Sweet Pea Wafer, 3-371 example recipes for flavorinfused Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, Mushroom Jus, 2348
example recipes for distilling liquids, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2-313 4 -169 Sous Vide BeefJuice, 2-349
Buddha's Hand Vodka, 2-389 example recipes for fluid gels Everything &gel Broth, 4 -130 Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2 -346
Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4-183 Foie Gras Cherries, 4-153 Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2-347
Cabbage Juice, 2-389 Hot and Cold Tea, 4-182 Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4 -152 Sous Vide Rare BeefJus, 2-349
LXXIV INDEX
EXUDATE GUM E
example recipes for jus (continued) example recipes for puffed snacks example recipes for starch thickeners example recipes for vegetable purees
So us Vide Vegetable Jus, 2 34 7 Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4304 (continued) (continued)
example recipes for light foams Cheese Puffs, 4 305 Parmesan Nuggets, 435 Celery Root Mousseline, 2427,
Blood Orange Foam, 4272 Pommes Soufflees, 4306 Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 429 5126
Corn Foam, 4 273 Puffed Chickpeas, 4307 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute, Creamed Watercress, 2426, 55
Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4 276 Scallop Machi, 4308-309, 5197, 432 exoskeletons, of crustaceans, 3-28, 30
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 202 Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 4 33 Exotic Spice Mixture, 2405
4 273 Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4303 Turkey Wing, 433 experimental cooking, McGee on,
Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, example recipes for risottos Vani lla Olive Oil Powder, 435 157-58
4275 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto, example recipes for stocks exponential growth, of bacteria, 1142
Oysters with Cava Foam, 4277 3308 Brown Beef Stock, 2301 exsanguination, 3 32
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, Risotto Milanese, 3306-307 Brown Veal Stock, 2300 extenders, in sausage, 3 226
4276 Root Vegetable Risotto, 3309 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken extracellular fluid, in raw foods,
So us Vide Sole with Bergamot Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, Stock, 2301 1305-306
Sabayon, 4 274 3308 Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2303 extracting flavors, 2288-317. See also
Whipped Cheese, 4 272 example recipes for Rocket Evaporator, example recipes for tartares and raw essences, aromatic
example recipes for marinating Mock Turtle Soup, 2394 meat acidifiers and, 2314-316
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3206, 5233 example recipes for sa lting, pickling, Beef and Oyster Tartare, 366 with alcohol, 2317
Chicken Tikka Masala, 3204 and fermenting Hanger Steak Tartare, 365 example recipes for, 2327
Fluke Ceviche, 3203 Crispy Dosa, 3355 Red-Onion Cream, 368 parametric recipe for, 2326
Gong Bao Chicken, 3205 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, Salmon Tartare Cornets, 368 coffee brewing and, 4364
Kalbi Flank Steak, 3199 3357 Scallop Tartare, 367 cryoextraction of wine and, 2-396
Lutefisk, 3200 Garlic Con fit, 3354, 525, 60, 81 example recipes for tender meats sous infused liquids, 2310
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Kimchi, 3352 vide measuring salinity and, 2313
Marmalade, 3202 Nukazuke, 3354 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard pressure-cooking for, 2291-295
Yakitori, 3201 Preserved Lemons, 3350, 5135 Marmalade and Porcini, 397 salt for seasoning and, 2312
example recipes for microwaved Sauerkraut, 3351 Venison Loin Rossini, 398 science of best tasting flavors and,
vegetables Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3353 example recipes for tender poultry sous 2299
Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3313 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, vide size of ingredients and, 2290-291
Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3312 3356 Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 3100 sous vide technique of, 2251
Sichuan Bok Choy, 3313 example recipes for set foams Poulet au Feu d'Enfer, 3100 for stocks, 2296-298
Tomato Powder, 3312 Beet Meringue, 4295 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion stocks as basis for sauces and, 2 288
example recipes for Modernist sausages Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4291 and Water Chestnuts, 3101 extraction percentage, brewing control
Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3248 Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4300 example recipes for thick foams chart on, 4366-367
Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, Green Olive Meringue, 4 298 Baked Potato Foam, 4 281, 5193 extracts, in alcohol, best bets for using,
3248 Green Tea Cake, 4292 Barbecued Eel with Whipped 2325
Fried Chicken Sausage, 3249 Gruyere Souffle, 4301 Caramel, 4283 exudate gum, 4 19
Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3248 Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4293 Chocolate Chantilly, 4281
Rare Beef Sausage, 3249 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, Coconut Chutney Foam, 4282
example recipes for nanoemulsions 4294 Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 4283
Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Eggplant Foam, 4280
4238 Chorizo Powder, 4290 Horseradish Foam, 4284
Ginger Cola, 4239 Siphoned Souffle a Ia Lorraine, 4297 Hot Butter Foam, 4283
example recipes for other emulsions Soy Sauce Cloud, 4299 Instant Swiss Meringue, 4284
Black Olive Puree, 4230 Steamed Blancmange, 4296 Uni with Whipped Tofu and
Eggless Citrus Curd, 4234 Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4292 Tapioca, 4 285
Egg less Mayonnaise, 4232 example recipes for smoked plant foods Whipped Butter, 4286
Invincible Vinaigrette, 4231 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
Mustard Vinaigrette, 4 231 Sabayon, 3363 Chips, 4287
Olive Oil "Margarine," 4 235 example recipes for spherification, 4194 example recipes for tough meats and
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 4188 shellfish
4 233 Gruyere Spheres, 4190 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions
Thickened Oil, 4230 Liquid Pimento Olive, 4 193 and Ginger, 3115
example recipes for Pacojet Melon Caviar, 4189 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3114
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3112
2411 4191 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked
Frozen Creme-Fr3.iche and Pine-Nut "Poached " Egg, 4195 Veal Breast with Bulbous
Cream, 2411 Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg," Vegetables, 3111
Mozzarella Powder, 2411 4194 Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3113
Pacojet Pea Soup, 2-410 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot
example recipes for pasta 4192 and Orange Sauce, 3110
Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3383, example recipes for spray dryer example recipes for vacuumset foams
5253 Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, Aerated Chocolate, 4313
Mac and Cheese, 3387 2443 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 4 312
Pad Thai, 3 385 Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 2 443 Aerated Foie Gras, 4311
Pasta Marinara, 3386 example recipes for starch thickeners Aerated Gruyere, 4312
Semolina Pasta, 3382 Almond Polenta, 4 36 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4 311
Spaghetti Carbonara, 3384 Bacon Powder Squares, 4 34 example recipes for vegetable purees
example recipes for pastas, Semolina Corn Pebbles, 4 36 Black Truffle Concentrate, 2427,
Pasta, 3382 Edible Earth, 437 5216
example recipes for potato purees, Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 431 Broccoli and HazelnutOil Puree,
Potato Puree, 3296 Malt Vinegar Powder, 434 2426
Modernist Bechamel, 4 31
INDEX LXXV
F FACULTATIVE ANAEROBIC BACTERIA
F
fats (continued) fennel seed extract, parametric recipe fining
rendering strategies for, 3 -145 for, 2-326 agents for, 2-358-360
saturated. See also cholesterol fermentation with bentonite or polyclar, 2-352
characteristics of, 1-222 bacterial role in, 1133-134 fino sherry, Sauce VinJaune, 5-113, 116
facultative anaerobic bacteria, 1130, French cuisine and, 1-228 in coffee processing, 4358 fire
138 in sausage, 3-223, 224-225 drying with warm air and, 2-433 draft and, 2 -7
Fahrenheit451 (Bradbury), 2137 in seafood, flavor and, 3-87-88 example recipes for, 3352, 357 for smoking, 3-208, 211
Fahrenheit temperature scale, 1266, separating from cream, 2 -366, 368 hydrocolloids from, 4-124 fire bricks, as graybodies, 1-286
285 smoking, parametric recipe for, marinating and, 3198 Firm Tofu, 4112
Fair Trade coffee, 4361 3362 parametric recipe for, 3-348-349 Firmenich, 1-51
falling-rate period smoking meat or seafood and, 2-145 of plant food s, 3-344, 346 Fischler, Claude, 1-26
in baking, 2-107-108 subcutaneous in winemaking, 4 330 fish. See also specific types offish
in deep-frying, 2-116, 117 cooking issues for, 3118 fermented pickles, parametric recipe aging, 3-41
Faraday, Michael, 1-60 rendering, 3 -122 for, 3-349 allergies to, 1-238
Farce Royale, 5-126, 132 as tough cut, science of, 383 fermented sausages anisakid infections and, 1122-123
Farm Direct, Fair Trade coffee and, truite au bleu and, 3-40 best bets for, 3244-245 biology of, 3-22-23
4-361 in tuna, 321 characteristics of, 3222 Bouillabaisse Broth, 2-308
farmer's cheese, parametric recipe for, volumetric equivalents for amounts example recipes for, 3247 brining, parametric recipe for, 3172
4-104 of, 5.XLIV history of, 3-246 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
farming, early civilization and in Wagyu beef, 319, 36 immune-compromised people and, 3-210
development of, 16-7 washing, for flavor extraction, 3-223 combi ovens vs. water bath cooking
fascicles, 36, 8, 11 2-320-321 other ingredients in, 3-226 - 227 of, 2-167
Fasciola gigantica, 1-123 whipped cream and, 4244 parametric recipe for, 3 244-245 cooking
Fasciola hepatica, 1-123 fatty acids preparation of, 3-246, 250 on bone, 2-243
fascioliasis, 1-123 characteristics of, 1222 Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5-167, 168 ideal temperature for, 3-89
fast food research on health and, 1-234 Fermento, for sausage, 3227 cooking sous vide
corporate control of, 1-22-24 faucet aspirators, 2-284, 356 fiber, dietary best bets for, 3-102
development of, 1-20-22 faucet handles, personal hygiene and, colorectal cancer and, 1214-217 example recipes for, 3-103 - 106
fast hot-spring eggs, parametric recipe 1-200 heart disease and, 1-216 parametric recipe for, 3-102-103
for cooking, 4 -78 fava beans plants and, 3-267 curing, parametric recipe for, 3172
fast hot-spring quail eggs, parametric cooking sous vide, parametric recipe research on colon cancer and, 1217 cutting, 352
recipe for cooking, 478 for, 3292 Fick, Adolf, 2-290 dissolved oxygen for, 1332-333
Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3-247 Fresh Bean Salad, 5-85, 87 Fick's law of diffusion, 2-283, 290, 343 fat oxidation in, 2201
fast-fermented sausages, 3246 Fricassee ofFava Beans and Lychees, fiddlehead ferns, Stir-Fried Fiddlehead FDA Food Code on, 1170, 184,
fast-twitch muscles 5-171, 173 Ferns, 5-113, 119 185-186, 187
fat content and, 318 FDA. See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food figs Fish and Chips plated-dish recipe,
in fish, 3-21 and Drug Administration (FDA) compressing and impregnating, 5143-145
in meat, 311-12 FDA Food Code parametric recipe for, 3390 flat, filleting, 3-57
meat color and, 3-14-15 on cooking times Pickled Figs, 5-135, 137 freezing, 1-194,3-37
in scallops, 3-26 for beef, 1-121 preserving, parametric recipe for, freshwater, tapeworms and, 1124
slow-twitch muscles vs., 311 - 12 for chicken, 1-180, 181 3-348 frozen, 337
fat, dietary for lamb, 1-121 fillers, sausage, 3-226,231 ike jime slaughtering of, 335, 37
beneficial forms of, 1-231-232, 234 for pork, 1-121, 179, 180 film boiling, 1-316 Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus
chemistry of, 1-233 specific cooking times and film condensate, steaming and, 1319, Foam,4-269
cholesterol and, 1-222, 224-227 temperatures and, 1-184- 189 2-70 plated-dish recipes for, 5-141 - 177
colorectal cancer risk and, 1-214 on "danger zone," 1-175-179 films, edible, 4-6 safe cooking principles for, 1-191
heart disease and, 1229-230 different foods and different rules of, best bets for, 4-60 Seafood Paper, 3-188
obesity and, 1243 1-174-175 Edible Wrappers, 4-62 simplified freezing
trans fat as, 1-230-231 egg pasteurization and, 1185 parametric recipe for, 460 recommendations for, 1192
The Fat Duck. See also Blumenthal, Salmonella time and temperature filter paper skin of. See fish skin
Heston curves, 1187 for coffee brewing, 4-368 slaughtering practices and, 335
food poisoning at, 1-155 on temperature but not time of for vacuum filtration, 2 354 smoked, example recipe for, 3-212
food science and, 1-49-50 cooking, 1-174 filtering, 2 350-377 Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2-303
plant food cooking at, 3-278 temperature rounding in, 1174 with agar, 2-372-373 sous vide for, 2-198
The Fat Flush Plan (Gittleman), 1-248 on thermal death curves, 1-182- 189 centrifuges for, 2-360-368 spoiled, risks of, 1-139
fats understanding, 1-182-189 for coffee brewing, 4 -368 tender, cooking sous vide,
around kidneys, 3-141 fecal contamination decanting wine and, 4-342, 343-344 parametric recipe for, 3102
characteristics and cooking with, animal, 1-116-117 fining agents for, 2-358, 360 tough, example recipes for, 3115
3144 hygiene and, 1196-197, 200 with gelatin ice, 2368-371 trimmings, for searing flavor without
cooking vegetables so us vide with, plant foods and, 1-197 juice extraction and, 2239 presearing, 2-268
parametric recipe for, 3292 fecal load, foodborne illnesses and, by oysters, 3-27 typical, fat content of, 5-XL!ll
dietary. See fat, dietary 1-115-116 pressure, 2-353-355 vacuum packing of, 2-212
extracting flavor with, 2-323 fecal-oral route, for foodborne separating emulsions with, 4212 whole, reconstructing with Activa,
flavor infusion into, parametric pathogens, 1-116 straining and sieving for, 2-351, 353 3-256
recipe for, 2-328-329 feline spongiform encephalopathy, strategies for, 2-352 fish eyes, in thickening, 4-20, 27
fl avor re lease and, 411 1-159 uses of, 2-351 fish flu, 1-124
as foam inhibitor, 4-257 femtograms, weight of bacteria in, 1130 vacuum, 2286, 4352-358 fish roe. See also bottarga; caviar
foams based on, 4244, 247 fennel bulbs description of, 2-352, 358, cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
freeze-drying of, 2-447 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 4-353-354 3-210
frictional heat and, 3230 for, 3-289 equipment for, 2-286, 356-357 Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3-399
grinding meat and, how to, 3-228 Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel how to, 2-357 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute,
in meat, 3-15, 18 Salad, 3 -106 of wine, 4 -344 4 -32
flavor and, 3-87-88 Fines Herbes Extract, 2-327 fish sauce, Asian, 3195
LXXVI INDEX
FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATES F
fish skin flavors (continued) fluid gels (continued) foams (continued)
cooking, 3129-132 reusing deep-frying oil and, 2 123, parametric recipe for, 4 177-179 vacuum inflation for forming, 4252,
crispy cooking of, 3130 124 quick-setting, 4179 254, 310-315
how to, 3130 roasting coffee for, 4358, 360-361 as shear-thinning liquids, 416 vacuum-drying and, 2433
slime as key to, 3129 of roux, cooked, 4-22 stock, premade, concentrated, 4 179 fog, steam compared to, 1319, 271
sous vide, 3131 salinity of, measuring, 2-313 as thickeners, 2346, 419 foie gras
pillows and, 3131 of saturated vs. unsaturated oils, fluidized bed freezing, 1307. See also Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu
Salmon Skin Souffie, 5161, 163 2126 blast freezers with Yuba and Enoki, 5197, 203
Fish Spice Mix, 5151, !54 savory, for French toast, 498 fluke (fish) Aerated Foie Gras, 4311
fish stock, parametric recipe for, seasoning with salt and other Fluke Ceviche, 3203 in ancient Egypt, 113, 3136
2296-297 enhancers of, 2312 Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3181 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
Fizz-Giz system, 3198, 207 size of ingredients and, 2290-291 flukes (worms), 1123-124 3210
fizziness. See also carbonation of smoke disease caused by, 1120 cooking directly from frozen, 1313
science of taste of, 2465 capturing, 2138, 3 211 liver, 1123-124 cooking sous vide, 3140
unwanted associations with, 2-464 chemistry of, 212 salmon-poisoning fluke, 1124 parametric recipe for, 3146
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4 183 smoke rings and, 2145 foaming agents Cromesquis, 3340
flagella, of bacteria, 1130 sous vide and, 2251 in beer, 4 250, 254 Foie Gras a Ia Vapeur plated-dish
Flame Firebox, Inverted, invention of, taste testing and. See taste testing categories of, 4244 recipe, 5109-111
3208 thickener selection and, 414 foam stabilizers and, 4 257 Foie Gras and Button Mushroom
Flaming Sorbet, memory and nostalgia water bath hotter than target gelatin as, 4 244-245 Tart, 3148
in, 151 temperature and, 2245 Modernist, 4 255 Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache,
flan, savory wine color and, 4334-335, 338 traditional, 4251 5125, 128
parametric recipe for, 492 Flay, Bobby, 130 foam -whipping siphon. See whipping Foie Gras Cherries, 4153, 5267,
Smoked Egg Creme Caramel, 4101 flipping food siphons 268,269
flash boiling, 1317 for sauteing, 246-47 foams, 4240-315. See also foaming Foie Gras Parfait, 5267, 268, 269
flash points, of frying oils, 2126 for speed and evenness in cooking, agents Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 4152
flash-freezing, 1306-307 238-39 airs as, best bets for, 4 264 Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
flatfish, filleting, 357 flocculation, as emulsion failure, 4210, antifoaming agents and . See and Sea Lettuce, 3149
flatiron steak, seam cutting of, 3 -47 212 antifoaming agents Foie Gras Torchon, 3176
flavor-infused liquids Flojel60, thickening with, parametric batters as, 3316 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
example recipe for, 2313 recipe for, 430 bubbles as, best bets for, 4264 Hibiscus Glaze, 4158-159
parametric recipe for, 2 -310 flour Cauliflower Foam, 5281, 283 hepatic steatosis and, pathology of,
flavors converting grams to volumes for, emulsions vs., science of, 4249 3139
alcohol and, 2317 S.XXXVI equipment for, 4258-261 history of, 3 138
artificial, food quality and, 1250, gluten as bread flour-binder and, example recipes for, 4 266 Knot Foie, 4 144
252 3376 fa<es and aspects of, 4262-263 liquid nitrogen for freezing,
best tasting, science of, 2 299 instant, thickening with, 4 22, 30 foaming agents and. See foaming 1310-311
bitter, S 226 milling of, 3376 agents production of, 3138, 140
changes in frozen foods, chemistry organic food movement perception on food surface, sublimation and, Shaved Foie Gras, 3177
of, 2261 of, 1253 2444 Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5109, 110
coffee brewing and, 4 364, 366-370 rice, 3 376 forming, 4252-315 Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage,
concentrating, 2379-397 rice flour pasta and, parametric Fried Egg Foam, 5211, 212 4233
of confit, 2128, 129 recipe for, 3381 froths as, best bets for, 4264 Venison Loin Rossini, 398
cooking meat and seafood and, 384, sauces thickened by, flavor release geometry of, 4246 Fonalleras,Josep Maria, 162
87-91 and,411 Guinness beer and, 4250-251 fond, 2343. See also stocks
of espresso, 4 384 for set foam s, parametric recipe for, Horchata Foam, 5239, 244 food. See also specific foods and types of
essences of. See essences, aromatic 4288-289 inhibitors of, 4 244, 247, 257 foods
extracting. See essences, aromatic; soft wheat, 513, 77 light, 4270-277 physics of, 1292-335. See also water
extracting flavors volumetric equivalents for amounts best bets for, 4270 food allergies, 1238-239
fat molecules and, 318 of, SXLIV example recipes for, 4272-277 Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
freeze filtration and, 2 369 Wondra, thickening with, 4 22, 30 parametric recipe for, 4270 See FDA Food Code; U.S. Food and
freezing and, 1304, 3374 parametric recipe for, 430 mechanism of action of, 4244-251 Drug Administration
of gazpacho, 5278 Flourless Gnocchi, 4119 milk, for espresso, 4391-395 food and health debates, 1208-259
infusing with so us vide, 2 -251 flowers Milk Foam, 531, 33 on additives, 1252-254
infusion into fats Blossom Salad, 5171, 172 Modernist, 4255 on Atkins diet, 1242
example recipes for, 2329-331 Crystallized Rose Petals, 3368 Parsley Foam, S229, 231 on chemical processing of food,
parametric recipe for, 2328-329 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, puffed snacks as, 4302-309 1250-252, 256
ofJell-0 shot, 4 70 3366 rheologic descriptions of, 4.Vlll on cleansing toxins from the body,
of juice Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Saffron Honey Foam, 594 1248
how to keep fresh taste of, 2339 Hibiscus Glaze, 4158-159 savory, Adria's use of, 136, 4254 dietary systems and, 1214-249
preserving fresh taste of, 2338 fluid gels, 4176-184 Scrambled Egg Foam, 5215, 216 dietary fiber, 1214-217
of leftover meats, chemistry of, 391 best bets for, 4 177 set. See set foams medical, 1222-239
Maillard reaction and, 2198, 389-91 characteristics of, 4176 spreading use of, 173 nonmedical, 1240-249
marinades and, 3190 coarse, 4179 stabilizers for testing disease risk and, 1218-222
nitrites in bacon and, 3-165 cold foams as, 4244-245 categories of, 4 244 on fat
off, microbes and, 1135 concentrated premade stock gels Modernist, 4255 beneficial forms of, 1231-232, 234
pH of, measuring, 2316 and, 4179 for traditional foams, 4 247 in butter vs . margarine, 1230-231
plant food cooking and, 3273, 278 egg gels turned into, 474 types of, 4 257 chemistry of, 1233
release of egg-based, 166 thick. See thick foams cholesterol and, 1222, 224-227
gel selection and, 473 example recipes for, 4180-183 for thickening, 47, 19 heart disease and, 1229-230
modern thickeners and, 4 5 flow of, 4 70 thickening and longevity of, 45 on French cuisine, 1228
thickener selection and, 4 10-11, foam forming with, 4 255 Tomato Vinegar Foam, 560, 65 on grilled meat and fish, 1221
IS, 17 LA gellan gum concentrations for, 4V traditional, 4247 informed decisions in, 1258-259
INDEX LXXVII
F FOOD AND HEALTH DEBATES
food and health debates (continued) food safety (continued) food thickness (continued) Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 4-300
on Modernist ingredients, 1-250-259 Hazard Analysis and Critical Control sous vide cooking times and, Freeze-Dried Egg Yolk, 5-247, 250
natural ingredients vs., 1-254-255 Point assessment and, 1-195 2-276-279 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3373,
on MSG, 1-213 holding temperature and, food borne illnesses, 1-110-119 5-261,263
on natural ingredients, 1-257 misconceptions about, 1-175-176 common misconceptions about, Freeze-Dried Pork, 5-247, 251
Modernist ingredients vs., hygiene and. See hygiene 1-117- 119 freeze-drying, 2-444-455, 3365
1-254-255 Jaccard tenderizers and, 3-51 contamination routes for, 1-116-117 best bets for, 2-451
on natural toxins, 1-249 microbial contamination and, 1-105 contamination sources for, 1113, characteristics of, 2-444-447
on organic food, 1-245-247 misconceptions about, 1-174-181 115-116 common problems with, 2-452
on raw food, 1-247-249 Modernist cuisine and, 1-255 cross-contamination and, 1-166 critical temperatures for, science of,
on salt, 1-234, 236-238 Modernist Cuisine philosophy on, 1-191 diagnosis of, 1-114 2-453
scientific analysis of, 1-210-212 multiple water baths at different infectious dose for, 1-115 equipment for, 2-285
on Spectrum diet, 1-242 temperatures and, 2-247-249 mechanical tenderizers and, 1-176 example recipes for, 2-454- 455,
on vegetarianism, 1-244 Myhrvold on writing about, 1-83 noroviruses and, 1153-154 5-185,247
on vitamin supplements, 1-235 natural essences and, 2-324 tracking, 1-110-111, 113 of fruits, parametric recipe for, 3372
on weight loss diets, 1-240-241 natural pesticides and, 1-245 foodborne pathogens method for, 2-448-449, 450
on Weight Watchers, 1-241 organic foods and, 1-247 bacterial, 1-134- 135 parametric recipe for, 2-450-452
on Zone diet, 1-242 pasteurization and, 2-250 common misconceptions about, physics of, 1-329
food hygiene. See also food safety pathogenic strains of E. coli and, 1-137 1-117-119 of plant foods, 3-344, 365
sous vide and, 2-199,201 political factors in, 1-170- 171, 173 microbes as, 1106 prefreezing temperatures for, 2 -451
food intolerances, 1239 pork, misconceptions about, research on, food safety rules and, sublimation and, 1-328, 2444, 3-365
food labels, 1-214, 239 1-179-180 1-166 of vegetables
food mills, 2-400, 401. See also milling public health and rules on, 1-169-170 time to onset of symptoms after example recipes for, 3-373, 5-261
ball, for dry-grinding, 2-401 rapid chilling and, 2-254 exposure to, 1-114 parametric recipe for, 3372
colloid. See colloid mills raw shellfish and, 3-27-28 types of, 1-108- 109 freezer burn, 1308, 326
double-disc, 2-404 rules for forced convection freezer taste, 1-306
pin-and-disc, 2-404 complex origins of, 1-166- 173 from air, heat transfer coefficient of, freeze-thaw stability, thickener
roller, for dry-grinding, 2-404 scientific simplification of, 1-283 selection and, 4-15
single-disc, for dry-grinding, 2-404 1-190-195 boundary layer and, 1-283 freezers
food poisoning, 1-110, 138 sous vide and, 2-201 in CVap ovens, 2-159 extracellular fluid as liquid in,
bacteria causing, 1-133 trends in, factors influencing, 1169 forced-convection ovens, 1-282-283 1-305-306
food preservation, 3-344-373 . See also of uncured confit, 2-128 forced-convection steam ovens, 2239 pros and cons of, 2-259
additives; preservatives; specific water baths hotter than target forcemeat, 3-222 sublimation in, 1-326
preservation methods temperature and, 2-245 Activa Tl for, 3-250 temperature control in, 1-205-207
anaerobic bacteria and, 1-136, 138 worrisome signs when curing and, forceps, surgical, for Modernist kitchen, types of, 1-306-307
best bets for, 3-348 3-164 2-286 freezing. See also frozen foods; entries
boiling-water canning for, 2-82-83 Food Safety and Inspection Service foreshots, in distillation, 2-384 beginning with cryo-
chemicals for, 1-144-145 (FSIS) Forgione, Larry, 1-28, 29 anisakid infections and, 1123
of eggs, best bets for, 4-82 on chicken cooking times, 1-181 Tire Forme ofCury (1390), 1-10 below glass-transition temperature,
food science and, 1-48 on pork cooking times, 1-179 Fort, Matthew, 1-50 1-306
by hunter-gatherers, 1-6 Salmonella reduction standards of, Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3-399 bread freshness and, 1-320
of plant foods, 3 -344-373 1-168 Foucault, Leon, 2 -191 carbonated liquids and, 2-464
refrigeration, freez ing, and canning on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1187 Fourier, Jean Baptiste Joseph, 1-278 cryogenic. See cryogenic freezing
for, 2-75 food science Framingham Heart Study, 1-225, 231 offish, 1-194,3-37
food presses, for juicing, 2-332, 334 development of, 1-42, 44-49 France. See also Bordeaux, France flash, Birdseye and, 1-306-307
food processors history of, 1-48 agar in, history of cooking with, 4 -128 food preservation and, 2-252
breaking down food with, 2-400 industrialization of food and aristocratic food in, 18 freeze-drying and. See freeze-drying
for emulsifying sausage, 3-225, 231, development of, 1-24 cuisine of, heart disease and, 1228 freezers and. See freezers
233 McGee on, 1-43 early gastronomy of, 1-9 of gel spheres, how to, 4 -135
invention of, 2-412 food size. See also portions haute cuisine of, 119 juice extraction with, 2-239, 335, 337
wet-grinding with, 2-412 batch size and consistent baking and, McDonald's in, 1-23-24 methods for, 1-306-311
food safety, 1-162-207 2-111, 112 medieval cuisine in, 112 physics of, 1-299
chemistry of nitrates, nitrites, and combi ovens vs . water bath cooking New International cuisine and, of plant foods, 3-344
nitrosamines and, 3-160 and, 2-167 1-29-30 to modify texture, 3-374
chicken and, misconceptions about, conduction and, 1279 Nouvelle cuisine in, 124, 26-27 pressure-shift, physics of, 1309
1-180-181 cook-chill sous vide method and, plated dishes in, 1-25 of raw foods
considerations for, 1-101 2-256 seam cutting in, 347 extracellular fluid and, 1-305 -306
cross-contamination and. See cross- deep-frying and, 2-117 sous vide cooking in, 140, 41 FDA on time and temperature for,
contamination drying with warm air and, 2-432 wine regulation in, 4-331-332 1-186
cultural factors in, 1-170-171, 173 flavor extraction and, 2-288,290-291 Francisella tularensis, 1-138 in salty brine, 2-260
"danger zone" and, 1-175-179 freeze-drying and, 2-446- 447 frankfur ters sous vide cooking and, 2-256-258
disclaimers and, rules of, 1178 microwave cooking and, 2183, 188, Frankfurter, 3242 strategies for, 2-259
drying with warm air and, 2-432-433 189 parametric recipe for, 3-238-239 thawing and. See thawing
egg garnishes on tartares and, 3-63 reducing. See particle size reduction seasonings in, 3226 thickening sauces, jus, or glazes by,
extracting and infusing flavors and, roasting and, 2-28, 32 free water 2-346
2-251 sauteing and, 2-44 as measure of dryness, 2428 Trichinella infections and, 1117-118,
FDA Food Code on. See FDA Food sous vide cooking times and, rehydration and, 1-321 121-122
Code 2-276-279 Freedom Cooking System, 2-240 of water, 1-304-311
foodborne pathogens and, 1-115- 116 stir-frying and, 2-54 freeze concentration, 2-379, 396, 397 hydrogen bonds and, 1-298
freeze-drying and, 2-447 in water bath hotter than final freeze dryers, 2-444, 448-449 physics of, 1-299
government bureaucracy and temperature, 2246 freeze filtration, with gels, 2-368-371 freezing point
changes in, 1-173 food thickness Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, depression of
convect ion baking and, 2110 2-454 dissolved materials and, 1-304-305
LXXVIII INDEX
GASES
G
freezing point (continued) fruits (continued) FSIS . See U.S. Food Safety and
freeze concentration and, 2-396 as acidifiers, 2-31, 314, 315 Inspection Service
pacotizing and, 2-406 blanching, 2-269 full city roast stage, of coffee, 4-362
in phase diagrams, 1-302-303 carbonating, 1-69, 2 -464, 469, 472 functional magnetic resonance imaging
The French Cook (La Varenne, 1651), classification of, 3-262 (fMRI), during wine tastings, 4-340 Gagnaire, Pierre
1-8,9 colorectal cancer risk and, 1-214-215 fuse! alcohols (fuse! "oils"), 2-384 Adria and, 1-34
French cuisine. See France compressed, example recipes for, fusion cooking, development of, 1-29 Erice Conferences and, 145, 46
French Culinary Institute. See Arnold, 3-392-394, S-285 Green Olive Meringue recipe, 4 -298
Davidj Noren, Nils cooked, seasonal melanges of, 3-294 hot spring eggs and, 4 -75
French fries cooking sous vide Modernist cuisine and, 164
frozen, program cooking in com hi parametric recipe for, 3288, molecular gastronomy of This and,
oven of, 2-169 290-291 1-48
ultimate, how to make, 3 -322 for purees, best bets for, 3-290 New International cuisine and, 130
The French Laundry, 1-38, 56, 68 . See in sugar syrup, best bets for, 3-291 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
also Keller, Thomas until tender, best bets for, 3-288 of, 1-27,39-40
French onion soup, pressure-cooking, cutting tools for frying, 3326-327 Gajdusek, D. Carleton, 1-159
3-298 dehydrating Galileo, 1-107
French press coffee brewer, 4-368 best bets for, 3-366 Gamay Noir, Gouais Blanc and, 4-327
French roast stage, of coffee, 4-362 example recipes for, 3-369-370 game broth, parametric recipe for,
French Scrambled Eggs, 4 -93 parametric recipe for, 3-366-367 2-304-305
French toast, Chorizo French Toast, disassembling with liquid nitrogen gamma-ray irradiation, to kill bacteria,
4-98-99 of, 2-458,462 1-149
frequencies, of microwaves, 2-182 FDA standards and, 1-189 ganache, Foie Gras and Hazelnut
Fresh Bean Salad, S-85, 87 freeze-drying Ganache, S-125, 128
Fresh Cheese Curds, 4-106-107 best bets for, 3372 Gand, Gale, 1-69
fricassees parametric recipe for, 2-451, 3-372 garagistes, 4-332
Carrot and Dill Fricassee, S-161, 164 freshness control of, sous vide and, Garcia, Dani
Fricassee ofFava Beans and Lychees, 2-201 liquid nitrogen and, 1-64, 65
S-171, 173 gelling agents from, 4-126 Modernist cuisine and, 157
Sweet Pea and Young Ginger heat-shocking, 3-358-359 Garcia del Moral, Raimundo
Fricassee, S-273, 275 hydrocolloids and, as thickeners, 4 -19 on hepatic steatosis and foie gras,
friction impregnated, example recipes for, 3-139
emulsification and, 413, 206 3-392-394, S-285 liquid nitrogen and, 1-64
heat generated by, 1-274, 2-398, with peels, carbonating, 2-464 gargling liquid nitrogen, safety and,
4-206 plated-dish recipes for, S-259-260, 2-466
meat grinding or chopping and, 277-279, 285-287 Le Gargouillou, 1-40, 3-294-295
3-230-231 preserving, best bets for, 3 -348 garlic
Fried Chicken Sausage, 3-249 purees of Apicius on, 112
Fried Egg Foam, S-211, 212 example recipes for, 2 -427 blanching, S-26
Fried Green Tomatoes, S-67, 74 parametric recipe for, 2-424-425 Brown Butter-Poached Green Garlic,
Fried Pickles, S-67, 75 raw, seasonal melanges of, 3294 S-229, 230
Frieden, Thomas R., 1-237 ripening, 3-283-284 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
frigi-canning, 2-84-85 with sugar, brandied, fermentation for, 3-290, 292
frittatas, parametric recipe for, 492 and, 3-346 Dehydrated Garlic Chips, S-43, 46
froths volumetric equivalents for amounts Garlic Confit, 3-354, S-25, 60,81
best bets for, 4-264 of, SXLIV Garlic Nougatine, S-25, 29
parametric recipe for, 4-264 water content of, SXL-XLI Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, S-85,
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 2-411 frying, 3-314-343 86
Frozen Chorizo Powder, S-193, 194 batter- Pickled Garlic, 525, 26
Frozen Creme-Frciiche and Pine-Nut example recipes for, 3-334-337 preserving, parametric recipe for,
Cream, 2-411 parametric recipe for, 3332-333 3-348
frozen foods. See also freezing with breading, 3-338-343 Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic
in conventional freezers, 1305-306 deep-frying and. See deep-frying Emulsion, 4-227
flavor changes in, chemistry of, 2 -261 offruits Spring Garlic Consomme, S-85, 86
food quality and, 2-256-258 chips and, 3-328-329 Toasted Garlic Chips, 5-S, 9
organ meat freshness and, 3-136 cutting tools for, 3 -326-327 Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 581, 82
seafood as, 1-182, 3-37 naked, 3-317,321 wild garlic blossom and, S-26
thawing vs. cooking directly from best bets for, 3-320 garum, 1-11,3-195
freezer, 1-313, 2-258, 262, 263 chemistry of, 3-320 Pomegranate and GarumJus, S-121,
Frozen Pomelo Cells, S-189, 191 coated frying vs., 3-316, 318-319 122
frozen set foams, 4-245, 247 oils for, chemistry of, 2 -126 gas burners, efficiency of, 1274
Frozen White "Truffle," 3-400-401 panfrying and. See pan frying gas griddles, 2-40
fruit chips shallow. See shallow frying gas grills
example recipes for, 3-328-330 stir-frying and. See stir-frying charcoal grills vs., 2-10-11
fried, best bets for, 3-328 vacuum, 2 128 controlling heat in, 2-14
parametric recipe for, 3-328-329 of vegetables gas-in-water (G/W) emu lsions, 4-243
fruit gels, hot chips and, 3-330-331 gas-in-oil (G/0) emulsions, 4-243
best bets for, 4 -165 cutting tools for, 3-326-327 gases. See also carbonation; evaporation;
parametric recipe for, 4-164-165 example recipes for, 3321, steam
fruit meringue, cryofreezing of, 2-458 323-325, S-11 heat convection in, 1282
fruits. See also citrus fruits; fruit chips; potatoes as, 3-322-325 internal energy of, 1-264
fruit gels; specific fruits frying pan, cutaway illustration of, physics of, 1-301
acidic juice for marinades from, 3195 3-72-73
INDE X LX X IX
GASES
gases (continued) gels, 4 -64-195. See also gelling agents ghee,4-213 glucose syrup DE 40 (continued)
phase changes and thermal energy aerogels, history of, 4-72 Giardia intestinalis, 1-127-129 as emulsion stabilizer, 4-215
from, 1-290 alginate, Adri3.'s use for, 1-39 Gia rdia Iamblia, 1-128 for set foams, parametric recipe for,
as solvents, 1-330, 332-333 casting giardiasis, 1-128 4-288-289
vapor vs., 1-300 how to, 4132 II Giardino d'ltalia, 1-21, 31 thickening with, parametric recipe
gastroenteritis, 1-114, 119 of thick sheets, how to, 4134 ginger for, 4 -47
Gastronorm hotel pans, as vacuum cellulose gum. See cellulose gums Crab and Ginger Marble, S -253, 255 glue
containers, 2-226 -227 chemistry of, 4-71 Ginger Cola, 4-239 meat, 3-250- 256, 4 -70. See also
Gault, Henri cold infusion of, parametric recipe for, Activa
Nouvelle cuisine and, 1-24, 26-27 best bets for, 4-140-141 2310 vegetable, 3-392
sous vide cooking and, 1-41 parametric recipe for, 4-140-141 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger gluten
Gauthier, Alexandre, Modernist cuisine concentrated, stock solution of, Fricassee, S-273, 275 as bread flour-binder, 3-376
and, 1-64 4-126 Tuna Ribbons with Ginger intolerance to, 1-239
Gayot, Andre, 1-24 considerations for, 473 Marmalade, 3202 glycerin, for edible films, parametric
gazpacho dairy, 4 -102-123 XO Sauce, 4-52 recipe for, 4-60
flavor of, S-278 example recipes for, 4 -105-1 11, 114 ginger extract, parametric recipe for, glycerol
Strawberry Gazpacho, S-277, 278 derivation of term, 4 -67 2-326 centrifuging and, 2-368
GDL (glucono delta-lactone) egg. See egg gels Girardet, Fredy in milk, foam development and,
gel formation with, 4-102 familiar, 4 -67-69 Black Cod "Fn!dy Girardet" and, 4-392
product guide for, 4-II-III firm coating, best bets for, 4 -151 S-170-173 glycine, in scallops, 3-26
gel. See gels fluid. See fluid gels Nouvelle cuisine and individuality glycogen, in scallops, 3-26
gelatin. See also gelatinization formation process for, 4 -70-72 of, 1-27 gnocchi
ballistic, 4-68 hot. See hot gels poaching and broi ling by, 2-24-25, Flourless Gnocchi, 4 -119
Bloom strength and, 4.V hydrocolloid. See hydrocolloid gels 96,97 Idiazabal Gnocchi, 4-123
characteristics of, 4 -67-68 ion-coagulated, 4-124-127 GISSI-Prevenzione clinical trial, 1-232 G/ 0 (gas-in-oil) emulsions, 4-243
as foaming agent, 4-244-245, 251 how to use, 4-129 Gittleman, Ann Louise, 1248 Goan Curry, S-90, 91,95
freeze-drying and, 2-447 Madeira Gelee, S-125, 131 gizzard, characteristics and cooking of, goat cheese
fruit juice and, 3-195 meat. See meat gels 3-141- 142 Goat Cheese Dumplings, 4-105
gelling agents from, 4-69 modern, 4-126 glasses, edible, 46 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4 -57
gels and molding dehydrating formula for, 3-367 goat's milk
with alcohol, 4-IV how to, 4-133 Pineapple Glass, 3-370 carotenoid pigments and, 3-92
parametric recipe for, 4 -116- 117 with suspended solids, how to, Spiced Honey Glass, S-121, 123 as emulsion, color of, 4-202
as hydrocolloid for thickening, 4-38 4133 glass jars Goat Milk Ricotta, 4 -108
hydrogen bonds in water and, I-296 noodles and for canning, 2-77 goats, scrapie in, 1-157
ice filtration and how to extrude, 4-138 heating requirements and duration God shot, of espresso
for clarifying, 2-368-369 how to extrude with peristaltic for, 2-79 as absolute perfection, 4-357
for liquids and consommes, 2-352 pump,4139 packing food in, 2-78 first, pleasure of, 4-375
technique for, 2-370-371 rheologic descriptions of, 4.Ylll glass-ceramic stoves, 1274 pod or capsule systems and, 4 400
interactions with other thickeners, Salt Gel, 5-S, 9 glass-transition temperature Goin, Suzanne, Achatz's first meal at
4 -44-45 seafood, 3-222 freeze-drying and, 1-329, 2 444, 446 elBulli and, 1-38
!60 Bloom . See 160 Bloom gelatin Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5109, freezing below, 1-306 Goldfarb, Will, 1-67
organic food movement perception Ill Glazed Carrot, S-185, 186 Gong Bao Chicken, 3-205
of, 1-253 spreading use of, 1-73 Glazed Oxtail, S-49, SO goose, cooking sous vide, parametric
product guide for, 4-II-III tofu, 4-102-123 Glazed Pearl Onion, S-261, 263 recipe for, 3-99
production process for, 1-256 example recipes for, 4-112-113, liS Glazed White Carrot, S-31, 32 gooseberries, as acidifier, 2 -314
properties and uses of, 4-42-43 traditional, 4 -69 glazes Gosset, William Sealy, 4-251
in skin, baking chicken upright and, vegetable, hot, parametric recipe for, Banyuls Glaze, S-17, 19 Gouais Blanc grapes, Chardonnay and,
2-109 4-164-165 Bulgogi Glaze, S-285, 287 4-327
as thermo-reversible gel, 4 -70 generally recognized as safe (GRAS) Constructed Red Wine Glaze, S-219, Gouda cheese
as thickener, 4 -S ingredients, 1-254 221 Cheese in a Tube, 4-225
unflavored, volumetric equivalents Genevac Rocket Evaporator, 2391-395 Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Mac and Cheese, 3-387
for amounts of, S.XLIV example recipes for, 2-394 Hibiscus Glaze, 4-158-159 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto,
whipped cream and, 4 248 genome, bacterial, sequencing of, 1-130 Goulash Glaze, 5-SS, 57 3-308
gelatinization genus, 1-112 Hamburger Glaze, 511, 14 Goulash Broth, 5-SS, 56
of collagen, 3-78-79 geoduck clams Squash Glaze, S-60, 63 Goulash Glaze, 5-SS, 57
common problems with, 4-27 biology of, 3-27 Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 543, Goussault, Bruno
cooking floury potatoes and, 3-280 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 44 biography of, 1-43
holding at a temperature and, 2-247 for, 3-108 thickening strategies for, 2-346 sous vide cooking and, 1-41
of starches, 4-22 Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 4-266 vacuum evaporation for reducing, grafting, grape varieties and, 4 -326-327
temperature requirements for, 4-68 Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger, 2-346 Graham, Tim, 1-69
gelato, pistachio cream for, 4 -214 Shiso, S-197, 200 glazing Grahm, Randall, 4345
gellan geometric growth, of bacteria, 1-142 as alternative to boiling, 270 grains
as emulsion stabilizer, 4-215 geometry. See also food size; food covered sauteing of vegetables and, converting grams to volumes for,
fat incorporation into sausage with, thickness 2-58 S.XXXVI
3-225 offoam, 4-246 gloves, personal hygiene and, 1-200 seasonal melanges with, 3-294
as fluid gel, 4-176 heat conduction in food and, 1279 glucono delta-lactone (GDL) water content of, 5-XLI
high-acyl. See high-acyl gellan geosmin gel formation with, 4-102 Gram, Hans Christian, 1-106
low-acyl. See low-acyl gellan in beets, S-182 product guide for, 4-II-lll gram-calorie, 1-272
natural sources for, 1-253 in freshwater fish, 3-88 glucose powder, for edible films, Gram-negative bacteria, 1-106
gelling agents Gerber, Walter, 4 -222 parametric recipe for, 4-60 Gram-positive bacteria, 1-106
hydrocolloids as, 4-67, 68, 124-175 Germany glucose syrup DE 40 fa grarzde cuisine. See Escoffi.er, Auguste
modern, 4-126 early gastronomy of, 1-10 for bubbles and froths, parametric Grandin, Temple, biography of, 3-36
sources of, 4-68 sausage-making in, 3-223 recipe for, 4264 granita, Passion Fruit Gran ita, 5 -175, 177
LX X X INDEX
G/ W (GAS- IN-WATER) EMULS IONS
grapefruit Green Papaya Pickle, 597 grinding (continued) gums. See also specific types of gums
as acidifier, 2314 green peas to incorporate into sausage, hydrocolloid
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Cantonese Fried Rice, 2176-177 3 224- 225 flavor release by, 411
for, 3291 Centrifuged Pea Juice, 2367 mathematics of power for, 2-401 grades, brand names, and
Eggless Citrus Curd, 4234 Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 5273, of meat proprietary blends of, 195
Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 275 collagen mesh and, 376 natural sources for, 1253
3357 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe how to, 3228 organic label for, 1245
Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4276 for, 3292 for sausage, 3220 scaling using baker's percentages
Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3180 freezing to preserve flavor of, 3374 strategies for, 2400 and, 196-97
Pink Grapefruit Confit, 5225, 226 Fresh Bean Salad, 585, 87 tools for, 3230-233 kori bustard's consumption of, 1253
grapefruit diet, 1240-241 Green Pea Yuba, 4115 wet . See wet-grinding as thickeners, 4 15
grapes. See also verjus Pacojet Pea Soup, 2410 grooming espresso portafilters thickening sauces, jus, or glazes
carbonated, 2464 pea consomme, parametric recipe dosing and, 4380 with, 2346
Cantu on, 2469 for, 2 374- 375 how to, 4 381 Gundel, Karoly, 555
compressing, parametric recipe for, puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425 methods for, 4383 Guns, Germs, and Steel (Diamond),
3390 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger grouse 3268
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Fricassee, 5273, 275 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe G/ W (gas-in-water) emulsions, 4243
for, 3288, 291 Sweet Pea Clusters, 4173 for, 399
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4 183 Sweet Pea Wafer, 3371 as substitute for pigeon, 5132
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, Green Star macerating juicers, 2-332 Growth Predictor, simulating bacterial
3372 green tea growth, 1147
heat-treating, parametric recipe for, Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4 291 Gruyere cheese
3359 Green Tea Cake, 4292 Aerated Gruyere, 4312
impregnating, parametric recipe for, infusion of, parametric recipe for, Cheesy "Whiz," 4225
3390 2310 Gruyere Custard, 5261, 264
preserving, parametric recipe for, green tomatoes, Fried Green Tomatoes, Gruyere Souf!le, 4 301
3348 567, 74 Gruyere Spheres, 4190
in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Greene, Gael, 161 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 495
Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Greenland shark, chemistry of, 343 Whipped Cheese, 4272
Powder, 5197, 200 Gremolata Crisp, 560, 64 guargum
White Grape Syrup, 452 grey mullet bottarga, in Sea Urchin controlling syneresis with, 4-17
for wine, 4319-320 Bottarga, 5226 as emulsion stabilizer, 4 -215
varieties of, 4326-328 griddles fat incorporation into sausage with,
grapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2126 characteristics of, 2-40 3225
GRAS (generally recognized as safe) for Modernist kitchen, 2287 interactions with other thickeners,
ingredients, 1254 pan frying using, 237 444-45
Gras, Laurent, 169 searing using, 2-40-41 for light foams, parametric recipe
graters, Microplane for sous vide cooking, 2271 for, 4 270
Adria's use of, 136, 3388 shiny, physics of, 1284 product guide for, 4Il-IIl
cutting vegetables for frying with, grilling, 26-17 production process for, 1257
3327 charcoal vs. briquettes for, 2-12 properties and uses of, 4 42-43
gratin, Onion Gratin, 5261, 265 charcoal vs. gas for, 2 10-11 thickening with, parametric recipe
grating, cryogenic freezing for, 2-461 charcoal vs. wood for, 2-7 for, 446, 47
gravy chemistry of flavor and, 212 Guerard, Michel, 124, 26
Red-Eye Gravy, 5101, 102 cutaway illustration of, 28-9 pot-au-feu of, 549
Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 433 draft and, 27 Le Guide Culinaire (Escoffier, 1903), 19,
Gray, Theodore, liquid nitrogen ice historical uses of, 1-16 19-20
cream and, 163-64 indirect, 213 Le Guide Michelin, star ratings of, 124
graybodies, absorption and emission by, sous vide cooking and, 2270 guinea hen
1286 grills. See also grilling cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
greasiness, in deep-fried foods, charcoal for, 399, 108
avoiding, 2125, 127 controlling heat in, 214 Guinea Hen Tagine plated-dish
Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company, gas grills vs., 210-11 recipe, 5135-139
121 gas Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5135, 137
Greece charcoal grills vs., 2 10- 11 Guinness beer
ancient, sausage-making in, 3-220 controlling heat in, 214 draft-beer-style head on, 4250-251,
early gastronomy in, 112-13 manufacturers of, "BTU" as used by, 254,256
Green Asparagus and Morels with 1272 Guinness "Pate de Fruit," 4145
Asparagus Jus, 2341 as ovens, 2 -13 gum arabic
green beans radiant heat from, 1277, 284 interactions with other thickeners,
Fresh Bean Salad, 585, 87 sweet spot of, 214-17 444-45
preserving, parametric recipe for, Grimes, William, 163 natural source for, 1253, 257
3348 grinders. See coffee grinders; espresso properties and uses of, 442-43
green cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 3351, grinders; meat grinders as surfactant emulsifier, 4216-217
535 grinding. See also milling; coffee beans gum tragacanth
Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 585, 86 colloidal suspensions from, 4-12 interactions with other thickeners,
Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 5167, dry, equipment for, 2-401-402, 404, 444-45
169 407 product guide for, 4Il-III
Green Olive Meringue, 4298 example recipes for, 2 403-405, properties and uses of, 4 42-43
green olives 535, 125 thickening with, parametric recipe
Green Olive Meringue, 4298 offat for, 446, 47
Liquid Pimento Olive, 4 193 how to, 3228
Olive Marmalade, 499
INDE X LXXXI
H HAGELLAN
H handheld smokers, 2146 heat (continued) hepatic steatosis and foie gras,
handheld whipping wands. See also efficiency and, 1274 pathology of, 3139
whisks of kitchen devices producing, 1275 hepatitis A, 1155
foam forming with, 4258 energy and, 1263 herb oil, Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil,
HA gellan. See high-acyl gellan to froth milk, 4391 excessive, pressure cookers and, 2330
HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical H anger Steak Tartare, 365 2291 Herbed Cheese Spread, 4 57
Control Point) assessment, basics of, H an ig, Dieter, 4341 friction and. See friction Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 3383,
1195 H an ner, Heinz, 1-70 fruit ripening and, 3283-284 5253
Haeberlin, Paul, 149 hard apple cider offusion, 1296 herbs
hake, cooking so us vide, parametric freeze-concentrating to make latent, of vaporization. See latent antioxidants in, aging braises and
recipe for, 3102 applejack, 2396 heat of vaporization pot roasts and, 298
Haldane,]. B.S., 2288 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, lost, cutaway illustration of sources Apicius on, 111
halibut 4 276 for, 1276 for brining or curing, 3158
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe hard water in motion, 1277-290 converting grams to volumes for,
for, 3102 dissolved minerals and, 1335 oil cha nges due to, 2115 5.xxxvm
Halibut Brandade, 5151, 152 espresso-making and, 4384 oven control of, 2153 cryofreezing of, 2-458
Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 5143, 144 hydration of ion-coagulated gels from pan bottom to handle, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
Halibut Cheeks, 5143, 144 with, 4124 1280-281 3372
Halibut in Verbena Bubble, plant food cooking and, 3278 physics of woks glowing hot, 1287 microwaving, 3310
4156-157 hard-boiled eggs, parametric recipe for radiant. See radiation Romans' use of, 111
Lutefisk, 3200 cooking, 478 shellfish fl avors and, 327 in sausage, 3 226
Salted Halibut, 3187, 5151 hardwood charcoal, briquettes vs. 1 212 specific, definition of, 1266-267 seasonal melanges with, 3295
ham . See also jam6n Ibericoj prosciutto H arvard School of Public Health, 1230 spherification and, 4 184 volumetric equivalents for amounts
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, H arvell, Michael Lee, 3207 steam distillation and, 2320 of, 5XLIV
3183 Hawaiian Poke plated-dish recipe, of sublimation, 1326 water content of, 5XLI
cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, 5175-177 temperature and, 1264-271 Herman, Sergio, 170
3210 Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 5113, testing oven controls for, 2156-157 Herme, Pierre, Onion tart and, S-261
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 114-115 transfer of Herodotus, 112
for, 3109 Hazard Analysis and Critical Control boiling and, 263 Hesse, Angelina, 4128
Cured Ham Broth, 581, 84 Point (HACCP) assessment, 1195 cold-shocking and, 2254, 256 Hesse, Walther, 4128
Ham Broth, 2306 hazard ratio, nutritional studies and, computer simu lation models of, Hesser, Amanda, 1-188
Ham Consomme with Melon Beads, 1219 1282 heterocyclic a mines (HCAs), 1220
448 haze (weather phenomenon), 1325 with conduction, 1277-281. See hex. See sodium hexametaphosphate
Spanish raw-cured, U.S. importation hazelnut oil also conduction hibiscus flowers, Foie Gras Torchon
rules on, 1173 Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, with convection, 1279, 281-283 . with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze,
XO Sauce, 452 2426 See also convec tion 4-158-159
Ham and Cheese Omelet, 495 Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2321 direction of, 1265-266 High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA)
ham and cheese sausage, parametric hazelnut oil extract Pick's law of diffusion and, 2290 ven tilation hoods, 1205
recipe for, 3238-239 Hazelnut Oil Extract, 2321 Myhrvold on writing about, 184 high-acyl (HA) gellan
ham broth parametric recipe for, 2326 with radiation, 1284-286 for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
Ham Broth, 2306 hazelnuts types of, 1277 4 140
parametric recipe for, 2304-305 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, in water bath at core temperature, for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
Ham Consomme with Melon Beads, 2367 2245 for, 4165
4-48 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut in water bath hotter than target for hot gels, parametric recipe for,
hamachi Nougatine, 5267, 270 temperature, 2245, 247 4160
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, of vaporization, 1296. See also latent as ion-based coagulant, 4 127
for, 3102 5125, 128 heat of evaporation product guide for, 4 II- III
Hamachi Maltaise plated-dish Hazelnut "Cream," 4236 whipped cream and, 4244, 248 properties and uses of, 442-43, 72
recipe, 5147-149 Romesco Sauce, 2419 heat capacity high-density lipoproteins (HDL),
Seared Hamachi, 5147, 149 Saucisson Sec, 3247 of cookware, 1278 1226
Hamburger Buns, 511, 12 HCAs (heterocyclic amines), 1220 of water, 1298 high-methoxyl (HM) pectin
Hamburger Glaze, 511, 14 HDL (h igh-density lipoproteins), 1226 heat content, measuring, 1-300-301 for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
hamburgers heads, in distillation, 2384 heat equation 4140
best bets for, 3234 health. See food and health debates; calculating cooking times using, for edible films, parametric recipe
as coarse "sausage," 3-220,222 foodborne illnesses; foodborne 1279 for, 460
meat grinders for, 3233 pathogens history of Fourier and, 1278 as gelling agent, 468
parametric recipe for, 3234-235 heart, characteristics and cooking of, heat flux, from grills, 210 interactions with other thickeners,
perfect, how to cook so us vide, 3-86 3142 heat lability, of bacterial toxins, 1135 444-45
Hancock, Jerry, liquid nitrogen ice heart disease heat transfer coefficient, 1283 product guide for, 4II-III
cream and, 163 cholesterol and, 1224-227 heat-gun browning, 2275 . See also blow properties and uses of, 442-43, 72
hand washing dietary fiber and risk of, 1216 torching and blowtorches high-pressure homogenizers
proper methods for, 1196-199 fat and, 1229-230 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5233, 235 emulsifying with, 4206, 208,209
UV lotion or powder and, 1201 French cuisine and, 1228 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes, foam forming with, 4252
handheld blenders weight loss diets and, 1242 5233, 235 high-temperature, short-time (HTST)
dispersing thickeners with, 424 heart pattern, for caffe lattes, 4395 heat-set Act iva bonding, 3252 pasteurization, 1188
emulsifying with, 4208, 209 hearts of palm, cooking so us vide, heat-shocking, of plant foods, 3344, hijiki, 528
foam forming with, 4252, 258, 259 parametric recipe for, 3289 358-359 histamine s
hydration of ion-coagulated gels heat, 1260-291. See also energy; heat-treated fruit, parametric recipe for, intolerance to, 1239
with,4 124 temperature 3359 spoiled fish and poisoning from,
hydrocolloid dispersion with, 438 bacterial toxins and, 1135 hemoglobin, role of, 312, 14 1139
for Modernist kitchen, 2286 conduction of. See conduction Henderson, Fergus, 128, 3136 Historic Lamb Curries plated-d ish
ultrasonic homogenizers as, 2-415 convection of. See convection entries HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) recipe, 589-99
wet-grinding with, 2413 defining, 1264 ventilation hoods, 1205
LX X XII INDEX
HYGIENE
history, 12-101 Horchata Foam, 5239, 244 humidity (continued) hydrocolloid gels (continued)
of evolution and revolution, 1-14-31 Hormel,Jay Catherwood, 121 relative. See relative humidity example recipes for, 4130-131
of Modernist Cuisine, 182-91 horns, of ultrasonic homogenizers, 2-414 resting food and, 238 how to use, 4129
of Modernist Cuisine recipes, 1-92-101 horsepower, 1272 in shallow frying, 2127-128 from microbes, 4126
of Modernist revolution, 152-77 horseradish, Horseradish Foam, 4284 smoking and, 2 132, 141, 3211 molding, 4133
of origins of cooking, 16-13 Horseradish Foam, 4284 flavor of smoke and, 2138 of firm beads in cold oil, 4 136
of seeds of Modernism, 132-51 hospital food in Sweden, sous vide hot-smoking and, 2148 of firm droplets, 4137
timeline of Modernist recipes and technology for, 2252, 265 smoke from burning wood and, in spheres, 4135
techniques and, 178-81 Hostess Brands, 176 2143 from plants, 4126
HLB (hydrophilic-lipop hilic balance) Hot and Cold Tea, 4176, 182 testing oven controls for, 2156-157 fruits of, 4126
values, 4204 Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5101, 103 humiditycontrolle d mode, in modern marine, 4 -126
HM pectin. See high-methoxyl pectin Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 4293 ovens, 2156-157 tubers and roots of, 4 126
Hodgson, Robert, 4338 Hot Banana Gel, 4166 Humm, Daniel, Sous Vide Instant spherification with, 4184-195
Hoffman, James, 4396, 400 Hot Blood Pudding Custard, 4221 Hollandaise recipe, 4228 best bets for, 4187
hogs, roasting, 230-31 Hot Butter Foam, 4283 Humphries, Daniel, 4 375 example recipes for, 4188-195
Hokkaido squash, cooking sous vide, Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4227 Hungarian Beef Goulash plated-dish parametric recipe for, 4186-187
parametric recipe for, 3289, 290 hot foods, cooling recipe, 555- 59 reverse, 4-187
holding food food safety and, 1205-206, 2256, hunter-gatherers, cooking by, 16 suspending solids in gelled spheres
browned, in CVap water-vapor oven, 257 hydration. See also rehydration and, 4187
2159 phase changes and, 1290 approaches to, 420 starches as, 4 126
at target temperature, 2247-249 starchy plants and, 3280, 282 of cellulosic gums, 4127 hydrocolloid gums
holding temperature. See also water hot gels of cooked roux, 422 flavor release by, 411
baths best bets for, 4160 for gelling, 4 71 grades, brand names, and
"danger zones," 1175-176 examples of, 4124 ofhydrocolloids proprietary blends of, 195
extended and simplified 6.5D fruit for gelling, 4 124 natural sources for, 1-253
Salmonella reduction for, 1192 best bets for, 4 165 for thickening, 438, 40 organic label for, 1245
FDA Food Code time and parametric recipe for, 4164-165 hydrocolloid gels, 3250, 467, 68, scaling using baker's percentages
temperature for, 1184 parametric recipe for, 4160 - 161 124-175. See also hydrocolloids and, 196-97
food safety misconceptions about, Hot Green Apple Gel, 4166 casting hydrocolloids, 467, 68, 124-175. See
1175-176 hot liquids, thickened, parametric how to, 4132 also hydrocolloid gels; specific types of
maximum/ minimum specifications recipe for, 446-47 in thick sheets, 4134 hydrocolloids
for, 1176 hot mitts cellulose gum, 4126 enzymes as, 4126
for meat, food safety and, 378 conduction in, 1277, 280 best bets for, 4171 health and safety of, 1250
for pasteurization, 2243, 3233 silicone, 1280 example recipes for, 4 172-175 hydration of, 440
of refrigerators, 2257 Hot Orange Gel, 4167 parametric recipe for, 4170-171 interactions with other thickeners,
Holiday Inn, Greenville, South hot plates, digitally controlled coating, 4150-160 4 44- 45
Carolina, sous vide cooking and, 1-41 for Modernist kitchen, 2284 best bets for, 4151 ion reaction for spherification with,
hollandaise for vacuum reduction, 2-380 example recipes for, 4 152-160 4 184
Bacon Jam, 4229 Hot Quince Gel, 4167, 5121 parametric recipe for, 4150-151 as natural ingredient, 4-38
Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 4 228 Hotel Moderne, 125 cold, 4140-149 product guide for, 4ll-V
Eggs Benedict, 4 86 hot-packing best bets for, 4140 properties and uses of, 442-43
So us Vide Instant Hollandaise, 4228 boilingwater canning and, 2-77 example recipes for, 4141- 149 proprietary blends, sources of, 4 41
Homer, 113, 3220 heating requirements and duration parametric recipe for, 4140 sequestrants and, 4129
hominy, Shrimp and Grits, 3377 for, 279 dairy, formation of, 4 -102 suppliers of, 440
homogenizers packing food in canning jars for, 278 extruding gel noodles and, 4 138 texture-hydrocollo id combinations,
high-pressure hot-pickling tongue, 3141 with peristaltic pump, 4 139 overview, 4 -VII
emulsifying with, 4206, 208, 209 hot-smoking, 2143, 148, 3211, 361 films and veils from, example recipes as thickeners, 413, 19,38-55
foam forming with, 4252 hot-spring eggs, 475 for, 4168 - 169 example recipes for, 448-59,
rotor-stator. See rotor-stator parametric recipe for cooking, 478 fluid, 4 176-184 61-63, 567
homogenizers House Barbecue Sauce, 449, 567 best bets for, 4 177 use of term, 4124
ultrahigh-pressure House Bitters, 2327 coarse, 4179 hydrogen bonds, 1296, 298, 314, 332
for Modernist kitchen, 2284 House-Cured Bacon, 3182, 517, 18 with concentrated premade stock hydrolysis, 2123, 247, 378-79, 118
for reducing particle size, 2398, 400 How To. See list of Step-by-Step gels, 4179 hydrophilic molecules, in surfactants,
for wet-grinding, 2414, 422-423 Procedures, LVI example recipes for, 4180-184 4202, 244
ultrasonic. See ultrasonic HPMC. See hydroxypropyl parametric recipe for, 4177-179 hydrophilic-lipoph ilic balance (HLB)
homogenizers methylcellulose quick-setting, 4179 values, 4204
Hon Dashi, 2306, 5197 HTST (high-temperature , short-time) as thickeners, 419 hydrophobic molecules
honey pasteurization, 1-188 fruit and vegetable, hot, 4164-167 fats as, 4199
BBQCaramels, 462 humectants, moisture content of food best bets for, 4165 in surfactants, 4202, 244
Edible Bar Soap with Honey and, 2428 example recipes for, 4166- 167, hydrosol, in essential oils, 2318, 320
Bubbles, 4267 humidity. See also combi ovens; 5121 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
Saffron Honey Foam, 594 moisture; watervapor ovens parametric recipe for, 4164-165 (HPMC)
Spiced Honey Glass, 5121, 123 Activa and, 3252 hot, 4160-167 for cellulose gum gels, parametric
honeydew melon, Compressed Melon baking and, 2102, Ill best bets for, 4 160 recipe for, 4170, 171
Terrine, 3392 braising or pot-roasting in ovens example recipes for, 4161-163 interactions with other thickeners,
honshimeji mushrooms and, 2 98 parametric recipe for, 4 160-161 444-45
Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, coffee grind and, 4376, 378 hot fruit and vegetable product guide for, 4 IV-V
555, 58 in deep-frying, 2115, 116-117, best bets for, 4165 properties and uses of, 442-43
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe 118-119, 125 example recipes for, 4166-167, hygiene, 1196-207
for, 3289 evaporation and, 1319-321 5121 food, sous vide and, 2199, 201
French Scrambled Eggs, 4 93 fermented sausage-making and, 3246 parametric recipe for, 4164-165 ice cream bases and, 1206
Hooke, Robert, I107 heat transfer and, 271 ion-coagulated, 4124-127 kitchen, 1200-205
Horchata (Chufa Milk), 4 59 ovens and, 2153 personal, 1196-200
INDEX LX X X Ill
HYGIENE
I
hygiene (continued) illnesses, foodborne . See food borne infusion, in coffee brewing, 4-364
temperature control, 1-205-207 illnesses; foodborne pathogens ingredients. See also specific ingredients
hygroscopic materials, food drying and, immediate service, sous vide and, converting grams to volumes for,
2-428 2-204-205 5-XXXIX-XL
hyperdecanting wine, 4 -343-344 ice immersion blenders. See handheld measurement of, 1-93
hypermodern cuisine, 157 crystals of. See ice crystals blenders weights and measures for, 194-95
hypertension, salt and, 1-234, 236-237 forms of, 1-304 immersion chillers, 2-238. See also water Modernist. See Modernist
hypothesis, of scientific theories, 1-218 freezing clear cubes of, 1333 baths ingredients
hysteresis, gel selection and, 4-73 heat conductivity of water vs., 1299 immersion circulators, 2-230, 234, 235, size of. See food size
as phase of water, 1-300 237 thickness of. See food thickness
sublimation of, 1326 immiscible substa nces, 1331, 332 used in Modernist Cuisine, 1-93-94
ice beer, freeze concentration of, 2396 immune system, food allergies and, injectors, for accelerating brining,
ice cream 1-238-239 3158, 166, 174- 175
Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 4312 immune-compromised people, innards, 3-136-151
base for fermented or cured sausages and, blood as, 3144
hygiene and, 1-196 3-223 bones as, 3-143-144
pasteurizing in sous vide bag, 1-206 impregnated fruits and vegetables cooking, 3-136-151
sous vide cook-chill of, 1-206 example recipes for, 3-392-401, 5-285 fat and, 3144- 145
FDA Food Code time and parametric recipe for, 3390-391 gizzard as, 3141-142
temperature for, 1185, 187, 189 Impression, Sunrise (Monet), 1-17, 18 heart as, 3142
freeze concentration of, 2396 Impressionism intestines as
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, fading of, 1-72 characteristics and cooking of,
2-451 history of rough start for, 1-18-19 3-142- 143
as frozen set foam, 4247 Modernist avant-garde and, 1-52 for sausage encasement, 3220
hot, as Modernist cuisine quest, as revolution in art, 1-16-18 kidney as, 3141
4127 Turner's paintings and, 133 liver and foie gras and, 3138-140
ice-restructuring compounds and, impulse sealers, 2-225, 284. See also marrow as, 3 -143- 144
1-305 vacuum packing Offal Sous Vide, 3146
liquid nitrogen and, 1-60-62, 311, inactivation, of viral pathogens, parametric recipe for cooking sous
2-458 1-152-153 vide, 3-146
pacotizing, 2-406,407 INAO (Institut National des Appellations as sausage binder, 3-222
simplified recommendations for, d'Origine), 4-331 soaking in water or milk, 3-136
1190 Incas, gastronomy of, 113 stomach as, 3142- 143
vacuum inflation for foaming with, index of refraction, 4203 sweetbreads as. See sweetbreads
4-254 India, curries of, 3-196-197 tender, best bets for cooking sous
ice crystals. See also sublimation Indies Spice Blend, 2-403 vide, 3-146
freeze concentration and, 2 396 individual quick freezing, fluidized bed tongue as, 3-140-141. See also specific
on frozen foods, 2-256-258 freezing for, 1-307 types of tongue
thawing and, 2-262 induction burners, 1-274 tough, best bets for cooking so us
pacotizing and, 2 -407 infections vide, 3146
ice wine, freeze concentration of, 2396 astrovirus, 1155 insoluble substances, 1-330
ice -brine baths intestinal. See also diarrhea; Insta Cure No. I, 3-158, !61
freeze concentration and, 2396 Salmonella spp. Insta Cure No.2, 3-161
freezing food in, 1-310, 2-260 giardiasis as, 1-128 Instant Creme Fraiche, 4 -57
pros and cons of, 2-259 salmon-poisoning fluke and, 1-124 Instant Swiss Meringue, 4284
vacuum packing and freezing in, invasive, 1-110, 133, 134-135 Instant Tofu Noodles, 4172
2 -258 noninvasive Institut National des Appellations
ice-restructuring compounds, in fish, bacteria causing, 1-133, 135-136, d'O rigine (INAO), 4-331
J.305 138- 141 institutional cooking, sous vide
ice -water baths definition of, 1-110 techniques for, 2265
for cooling hot food, 1-206 infe ctious dose insulators, low conductivity of, 1-277
physics of not halting cooking with, determining, science of, 1-115 integrals, mathematical, definition of,
2254 foodborne illnesses and, 1115-116 2230
pros and cons of, 2255 inflammation, heart disease and, 1-227 intellectual property law, 1-70-72,76
for quick chilling, 2-256 inflammatory diarrhea, 1114 intensity of power, calculating grill
for thawing, 2-263 inflation, vacuum, foam forming with, power and, 2-10
ID 50 4252, 254, 310 intermediate muscle fiber, 3-15
determining, sc ience of, 1115 informal recommendations, on food intermediate-density lipoprotein (IDL),
foodborne illnesses and, 1-115- 116 safety, 1-165 1-226
ideal gas law, 1-282 infrared light internal energy, 1-264-265
Ideas in Food (blog), 1-66, 67. See also blackbodies and, 1-285 International Agency for Research on
Kamozawa, Aki; Talbot, H. Alexander measuring, 1287 Cancer, 1-220
Idiazabal cheese radiation and, 1-284 Internet
Idiazabal Gnocchi recipe, 4123 infrared thermometers, 1-269, 2-286 as Modernist ingredients source,
Qjlinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito infusing flavor. See also chamber sea lers; 1-94
Stock Veil, 4-168 esse nces, aromatics Modernist innovation and, 1-59-60
IDL (intermediate-density lipoprotein), into fats INTERSALT study, 1236, 237
1-226 example recipes for, 2329-331 intestinal tract infections. See also
ike jime method of slaughtering fish, parametric recipe for, 2-328-329 diarrhea; Salmonella spp.
3-35, 37 flavor-infused liquids and giardiasis as, 1128
how to, 3-38 example recipe for, 2 -313 salmon-poisoning fluke and, 1-124
II Giardino d'Italia. See Boiardi, Ettore parametric recipe for, 2310
Iliad (Homer), 1-13 by cooking so us vide, 2-251
LXXXIV INDEX
JUS
J
J
intestines juice (continued) jus (continued)
characteristics and cooking of, fruit, for acidic marinades, 3195 Truffle Jus, 453
3-142-143 grape. See grapes; verjus vacuum evaporation for reducing,
for sausage encasement, 3 -220 from ground fruits or vegetables, 2-346
"Into the Vegetable Garden," 3-294, 4-37 Jaccard tenderizers 3-376
intracellular fluid, in raw foods, 1-305 for accelerating brining, 3-158, 166 keeping fresh taste of, 2-338-339
invasive infections, 1-110, 133, 134- 135 characteristics of, 3-51 juicers
inverse-square law oflight, 1-286 collagen mesh and, 3-76 for raw food, 3-269
Inverted Flame Firebox, invention of, hazards with, 1-176 types of, 2-332, 334
3 -208 meat juiciness and, 379 juiciness
inverters, for microwaves, 2189 jacking, 2-379, 396, 397 acidic marinades and, 3-192-I93
Invincible Vinaigrette, 4-231 jalapeno chips, parametric recipe for, cooking meat and seafood and, 3-79,
ion-coagulated gels 3-328 83
characteristics of, 4124-127 Jaleo, 1-67 of meat
using, how to, 4-129 James I of Aragon, 5244 fat content and, 3 -18
ionexchange filter, for purifying water, Jamin. See Robuchon,Joel from young vs. older animals, 379,
1335 jam6n Iberica 81
ionic bonds, 1-296 Ham Broth, 2-306 juicing, 2332-349
ionic compounds, 1-330 Maillard reaction and, 3 -173 chemistry and, 2-335
Ionnadis,John, 1-220 slicing, 3-50 with enzymes, 2-335, 336
ionotropic gelation, 4 -184 U.S. importation rules on, 1173 equipment for, 2-332- 335
ions Japan example recipes for, 2340-341
definition of, 1-330 blocking tuna in, 3-54 by freezing, 2-335, 337
gel coagulation and, 4-68, 124-127 meat-grading system in, 3-36 with osmosis, 2-336
gel selection and, 4-73 seam cutting in, 347 with pectinase from plants, 2-336
hard water and, 1335, 3278 tuna prices in, 352 reducing, in vacuum, 2-381
hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4-70 Japanese rotary vegetable slicer, 3-327 strategies for, 2-338, 339
hydrocolloid hydration and, 4 -40 Japanese slowcooked eggs, parametric Julien, Honore, 3-322
sodium, dissolved in water, 3 -154 recipe for cooking, 4-78 Juneja, Vijay K., 1-I80- 181, 188, 190, 193
iota carrageenan Japanese stock, parametric recipe for, The Jungle (Sinclair), 3-35
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, 2-296-297 juniper berries
4 -140 Japanese vegetable sheeter, 3-326 infusion of, parametric recipe for,
controlling syneresis with, 417 Japanese yams, cooking sous vide, 2-310
for fluid gels, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 3 -292 Juniper Brine, 5-35, 36
4-177 Jardin des Saveurs, 1-61 Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 5-35,36
hot, as Modernist cuisine quest, 4-127 jasmine essential oil, Apricot and junk food, obesity and, 1-23
interactions with other thickeners, Jasmine Puree, 5-171, 173 jus, 2343-349
4-44-45 Jean Georges, 173 beef
as ion-based coagulant, 4-124, 129 Jefferson, Thomas, 3-322 Aged Rare BeefJus, 5-5,6
product guide for, 4 -ll-lll Jell-0 shot, 4-70 Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti,
properties and uses of, 4 42-43, 128 jelly, Passion Fruit Jelly, 4-180 4-54
for spherification, parametric recipe Jenner, Edward, 2-85 parametric recipe for, 2-344-345
for, 4-187 Jerusalem artichokes rare, parametric recipe for,
for thick foams, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 2-344-345
for, 4-278-279 for, 3-289 Sous Vide Rare BeefJus, 2-349
irradiation . See radiation Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4-31 best bets for, 2-344-345
irreversible changes Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5-125, bromelain for preparation of, 3-I95
measuring of, 1-268 131 characteristics of, 2-343
temperature and, 1-268, 270 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2425 chicken, brown, parametric recipe
isomalt John Dory for, 2-344-345
for edible films, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe concentrating flavor of, 2379
for, 4-60 for, 3-102 example recipes for, 2-346 - 349, 347,
for set foam s, parametric recipe for, in Seared Hamachi, 5-147, 149 5-25
4 -288-289 Jones, Curt, 1-61, 72 Green Asparagus and Morels with
for thick foams, parametric recipe Jones Soda Company, Turkey & Gravy Asparagus Jus, 2-341
for, 4-278-279 seasonal flavor, 433 Jus de Ia Presse, 2-347
Italian sausage joules, 1-272 Jus Gras, 4 -237
Italian Sausage, 3-242 Joule, James Prescott, 1-272 Lamb Garlic Jus in aJar, 2348, 5-25
sweet, parametric recipe for, Journal of Food Protection, 1-181 mushroom
3-236-237 Journal of Wine Economics, 4338 Mushroom Jus, 2-348
Italy juice. See also juicing parametric recipe for, 2 -344-345
early gastronomy of, 110-11 apple. See apple cider/apple juice mussel, parametric recipe for,
espresso in, sociological role of, 4374 beef 2-344-345
medieval cuisine in, 112 parametric recipe for, 2-344-345 parametric recipe for, 2-344-345
Nouvelle cuisine in, 128-29 Sous Vide BeefJuice, 2-349 Pomegranate and GarumJus, 5-121,
Slow Food movement of, 1-23 centrifuge-spun, 2-360 122
tradition and evolving cuisine of, chicken, parametric recipe for, reduced, flavor of roux vs., 411
1-14- 15 2-344-345 Root Vegetable Jus, 5161, 163
wine regulation in, 4 332 citrus, as acidifier, 2-314, 315 salmon, rare, parametric recipe for,
Iuzzini,Johnny clarifying with Buon Vi no pressure 2-344-345
Beet Flexicurd recipe, 4-219 filter, how to, 2-355 Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2 -347
Green Tea Cake recipe, 4 -292 concentrating flavor of, 2 -379 thickening strategies for, 2346
innovations of, 173 frozen, freeze-drying of, 2-446 Toasted Oat Jus, 5-126, 133
INDEX LXXXV
K KABOCHA SQUASH
K
kabocha squash
Kennedy, Rob, liquid nitrogen ice
cream and, 163
Kentucky BBQSauce, 5-66,71
Kentucky Fried Chicken franchise,
1-22-23, 76, 2-120
Koch, Robert, 4-128
Kocuria, 3 -165
Koffmann, Pierre, 128
kohlrabi, cooking sous vide, parametric
recipe for, 3-289, 290, 292
L
La Broche, 1-57
Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Kerala Curry, 590, 91,96 Kohman, E. F., 2-84 LA gellan. See low-acyl gellan
Squash, 5-60, 65 keratin, in gizzards, 3141 Kokonas, Nik, 1-68, 69 La Marzocco, 4398, 400
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe ketchup kombu. See seaweed L.A . Provincial cuisine, Puck and, 129
for, 3-289, 290, 292 Mushroom Ketchup, 5-11, 13 Komm, Anatoly, 1-70 La Reyniere (aka Robert Courtine), 1-26
Krestur Hakarl, chemistry of, 3 -43 as shear-thinning fluid, 4-6, 176 konjacgum La Varenne, Ecole de, 4-322-325
Kahan, Paul, Achatz's first meal at ketosis, Atkins diet and, 1-242 interactions with other thickeners, La Varenne, Fran'Yois Pierre de
elBulli and, 1-38 Keurig espresso machine, coffee 4-44-45 as chef to French ruling class, 1-8,9
Kalbi Flank Steak, 3-199 capsules for, 4 400 product guide for, 4-II-III French cuisine and, 1-19
Kamo zawa,Aki Keys, Ancel properties and uses of, 4 -42-43 innovations of, 120
Aerated Gruyere and, 4-312 on fat and heart disease, 1-219, thickening with, parametric recipe laboratory scales, for measuring
on blanching sous vide, 3-293 224-225, 226 for, 4-46, 47 thickeners, 4-23
on browned solids from clarified on Mediterranean diet, 1232 kori bustard, 1-253 laboratory sieves
butter, 4-212 on saturated fats, 1-234 K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, 1-28, 29 for filtering, 2-351, 352, 353
chicken skin glued to scallops by, Keys to Good Cooking (McGee), 1-43 Kraft, James L., 1-24,4-222 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286
3-252 Kick's law, 2-401 Kroc, Ray, 1-21-22, 31 lactase intolerance, 1-239
Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, kidneys kudzu starch, thickening with, 4-28 lactic acid, as acidifier, 2314
3392 characteristics of, 3141 parametric recipe for, 4-28 Lactobacillus bulgaricus, 1-134
on cooking whole chicken eggs, 4-75 cooking, 3-141 Kumamoto oysters, in Shigoku Oyster Lactobacillus plantarum, 1-134
fast hot-spring eggs and, 4 -78 so us vide, parametric recipe for, with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Lactobacillus sa nfranciscensis, 1-134
fish skin pillows of, 3-131 3-146 Miso Powder, 5-197,200 Lactococcuslactis, 1-144
gel filtration and, 2-369 kielbasa, parametric recipe for, kumquats lactose-free cream, centrifuging to
Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, 3-236-237 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe separate, 2-368
4-105 kilocalories, 1-272 for, 3-291 Ladenis, Nico, 1-62
Ideas in Food blog and, 1-66, 67 kilowatts, 1-272 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
Modernist Bechamel and, 4-31 kimchi 3356 of, 1-28
Pasta Marinara recipe, 3386 Kimchi, 3-352 Kunz, Gray L'Air du Temps, 1-70
Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3-396 Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5-285, pacotizing by, 2 -407 Laiskonis, Michael
smoked eggs by, 4-100 286 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Chili Pearls recipe, 4 -145
Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, kimchi consomme, parametric recipe Veal Breast with Bulbous innovations of, 173
4-292 for, 2-374-375 Vegetables recipe, 3-111 Lake Nyos, Cameroon, carbon dioxide
Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, Kinch, David kuri squash eruption from, 2-466
4-269 Beef and Oyster Tartare recipe, 3-66 Braised Pine Nuts with Winter laksa
Kansas City BBQSauce, 5-66, 68 Beef Cheek Pastrami recipe, 3-213 Squash, 560, 65 Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4-121
Kansas Rub, 5-66, 68 Corn Croquetta recipe, 3-341 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Laksa Broth, 2-307
kappa carrageenan Corn Custard recipe, 4-122 for, 3-289, 290 !'Amador, 1-70
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, "Into the Vegetable Garden" and, Kurti, Nicholas lamb. See also sheep
4-140 3-294, 4 37 Erice Conferences and, 1-44,45 aging, 341
for fluid gels, parametric recipe for, Modernist cuisine and, 167 liquid nitrogen ice cream and, Braised Lamb Shoulder, 5-81, 83
4-177 Strawberry Gazpacho recipe, 5-277 1-61-62,65 cooking
interactions with other thickeners, Turbot with Onion and Marrow kuru, as prion disease, 1158 differences for parts of, 3-18
4-44-45 Broth recipe, 3-105 Kusshi oysters, Poached Oysters, 5-233, so us vide, parametric recipe for,
product guide for, 4 -II- III king trumpet mushrooms, Pulled 236 3-96,109
properties and uses of, 4-42-43, 128 Mushroom, 3-396 times for, 1-121
Karabecue smoker, 3-208 Kistler, Samuel Stephens, 472 fast-twitch vs . slow-twitch muscle in,
Karau, Bill, 3-208 kitchen, Modernist. See Modernist 3-12
Kasper, Lynn Rossetto, 3-306 kitchen Lamb Garlic jus in aJar, 2-348,5 -25
katsuobushi, 2-143 kitchen hygiene, 1-200-205 leaner, usingActiva for making, 3255
Kaufman, C. W., 3-92 chef's accessories for, 1-202- 203 Poached Lamb Loin, 5-85, 87
Kaufman, Galen, 2-469 contaminants and, 1-200 Rack of Lamb, 5-25, 29
Keller, Thomas disinfecting procedures for, 1200, seam cutting, 3-45
Achatz's first meal at elBulli and, 204 how to, 3-46
1-38,52 technology ofUV powder and, 1-201 searing before vacuum packing of,
Cauliflower Panna Cotta recipe, kitchen management, Escoffier's system 2-268
4 -142,162 for, 120 lamb stock, parametric recipe for,
Curry Oil recipe, 2-331 kitchen space, contamination and, 2-296-298
New International cuisine and, 1-200 lamb sweetbreads, cooking sous vide,
1-30-31 kitty litter, food safety and, 1-126 parametric recipe for, 3-146
oyster and pearls of, 5-205 kiwifruit lambda carrageenan
Red-Onion Cream recipe, 368 compressing, parametric recipe for, interactions with other thickeners,
Salmon Tartare Cornets recipe, 368 3-390 4-44-45
sous vide cooking and, 173 impregnating, parametric recipe for, product guide for, 4 -II-lll
Tomato Powder recipe, 3-312 3390 properties and uses of, 4-42-43, 128
kelp, 5-28 introduction of, 115 thickening with, parametric recipe
Kelp Company, 4-40 Klock, Gerd, freeze filtration and, 2-369 for, 4 -46, 47
Ke lvin, Lord, 4-246 kminkowa, parametric recipe for, Lamblia intestinalis, 1-127-128
Kelvin Problem, 4-246 3-236-237 Landhotel Kirchdach, 1-70
Kelvin temperature scale, 1-266,285-286 Knot Foie, 4144 Lang, George, 5-55
Knox, Charles, 4-67 on Hungarian beef goulash, 555
LXXXVI INDEX
LOCUST BEAN GUM L
langoustines. See also prawns Leidenfrost effect, 1317, 2464, 466 light foams, 4270-277 liquid nitrogen (continued)
biology of, 328 lemon verbena best bets for, 4 270 pros and cons of, 2259
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe infusion of, parametric recipe for, example recipes for, 4272-277 research laboratories' use of, 2456
for, 3103 2310 parametric recipe for, 4270 safe handling of, 2464, 466,467
Seared Langoustine, 5239, 245 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, lignin, smoked food and, 2134 sausage grinding and, 3230
language, evolution of, 115 4273 limes sources of, 2458
lap cheong, parametric recipe for, lemon zest infusion, parametric recipe as acidifier, 2 314 viscosity of, 46
3244-245 for, 2 310 Citrus Air, 4265 Liquid Pimento Olive, 4 193
L'Archestrate, 5109 lemongrass infusion, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, parametric recipe liquid smoke
lard, pork, chemistry of, 2 126 for, 2310 for, 3291 chemistry of, 2149
larding, 384 lemons Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4291 for cold-smoking, 3361
Larousse Gastronomique (Montagne, as acidifier, 2314 Eggless Citrus Curd, 4234 liquor. See also alcohol (ethanol); specific
1938), 19 Citrus Air, 4 265 Lychee and Lime Soda, 4268 alcoholic beverages
Las Vegas, Nevada, New International cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Lindt, Rudolph, conche machine and, distillation of, 2384, 390
cuisine in, 130 for, 3291 2404 production process for, 1256
lasagna, in oldest cookbook in English, Eggless Citrus Curd, 4 234, 5157 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, seasoning with, 2317
110 Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 4276 3103 Lirio,Jack, 126
laser {laserpicium), history of, 111-12 Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 4180 linguine, from gel sheets, how to make, Lisir\ska, Graiyna, 3322
lasers, for smoking, 169 Lemon Strips, 4 61 4134 Listeria monocytogenes
L'Astrance, 164 Meyer Lemonade, 2340 links, sausage, 3230, 240 as foodborne pathogen, 1134
latent heat of vaporization Pickled Lemon, 5273, 275 Linnaeus, Carl (Linne, Carl von), 1112, nisin and replication of, 1145
in AccuTemp griddles, 241 Preserved Lemons, 3350, 5135 266 refrigeration and, 2257
as phase change, 1290, 299-300 for set foams, parametric recipe for, lipids, 1222. See also cholesterol; fats; oils replication limits of, 1145
science of how liquid nitrogen boils 4288-289 lipoproteins, low-density, 1226, 227 wine marinade with oregano against,
and, 2-457 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4227 liquamen, 3195, 5121 1145
steaming and, 270 lentils liquids. See also specific liquids listeriosis, 1134
Latin America Lentil Salad plated-dish recipe, for breading, 3338 liver. See also specific animals
Horchata drinks in, 459 5267- 271 carbonation of, 2468 characteristics of, 3138
Incan and Mayan gastronomy of, 113 puffed, parametric recipe for, 4 302 clarifying with agar, 2372-373 cooking sous vide, 3146
wine innovation in, 4332 Sous Vide Lentils, 5267, 271 cold, best bets for thickening, 4 46 liver flukes, 1123-124
latte (calfe latte) Lespinasse. See Kunz, Gray concentrating flavor of, 2380 LM pectin. See low-methoxyl pectin
as art form, 4391-393 lethal dose, foodborne illnesses and, convection of heat in, 1282, 283 LMA pectin, as gelling agent, 468
composition of, 4393 1115-116 converting grams to volumes for, lobster
milk foam in, 4244 lettuce s.xxxvu biology of, 328-30
patterns in, how to make, 4 394-395 cold-smoking, 3361 fermented, intolerance to, 1239 brining, parametric recipe for, 3172
lava rocks, in gas grills, 211 compressing, parametric recipe for, filtering strategies for, 2352 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
laws, U.S. See also U.S. Food and Drug 3390 hot for, 3103
Administration freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, best bets for thickening, 4 47 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
on advertising and label health 2451, 3372 physics of blowing on, 1288 2451
claims, 1214 impregnating, parametric recipe for, internal energy, physics of, 1301 Jus de Ia Presse, 2347
on distillation, 194, 2384, 391 3390 Newtonian, 46 Lobster Americaine plated-dish
on food safety, 1165, 190 romaine phase changes and thermal energy recipe, 5184-187
local, for laboratory equipment, 194 Caesar Salad, 3373 from, 1290 19th-Century-Style Lobster with
LBG. See locust bean gum Smoked Lettuce, 511, 15 phases of, mouth feel and, 410 Sherry and Cocoa, 3107
LDso, food borne illnesses and, water content of, 3273, 276 rheologic descriptions of, 4.YIII Poached Lobster, 4219
1115-116 Leung, Alvin,Jr., 170 separating by centrifuging, 2364 Poached Lobster Tail, 5185, 187
LDL (low-density lipoproteins), 1226, libraries, rare-book, freeze-drying by, shear-thinning, 46 Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2454,
227 2444 sous vide technique of extracting, 5185
Le Bernardin, 173 licorice 2251 as seafood gel, 3222
Le Calandre, 170 Licorice Powder, 2405 thickening, 4 5 lobster mushrooms
Le Postay, 170 Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4 155 vacuum packing cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
LEARN diet, 1242 licorice root infusion, parametric recipe with chamber sealer, 2219 for, 3289
leathers for, 2310 physics of, 2215 Lobster Mushroom Confit, 5185, 187
dehydrating formula for, 3367 lids, for pot-roasting or braising pots, 296 viscosity of. See viscosity local food, current buzz. on, 1248
Mandarin Leather, 3369 Lie brandt, Paul, 169 Liquid Center Duck Egg, 5219, 220 locust bean gum (LBG)
lecithin, soy Foie Gras Cherries recipe, 5267 liquid nitrogen. See also specific for cold emulsions, 5187
de-oiled, for airs and froths, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and techniques using liquid nitrogen for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
parametric recipe for, 4264 Hibiscus Glaze recipe, 4158-159 acronym or abbreviation for, 2-456 4-140
product guide for, 41I- Ill "Into the Vegetable Garden" and, Adria and, 139 controlling syneresis with, 4 17
leeks 3294 boiling, science of, 2 457 as foam stabilizer, 4257
Charred Leek Oil, 517, 18 Life of Luxury (Archestratos of Gela, cooking with, 2456, 458, 459 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Sicily), 112 cryogenic freezing using, 2456 for, 4 165
for, 3289 light culinary life of, 160-66, 68, 70 for hot gels, parametric recipe, 4160
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, cooking meat and seafood and, culinary strategies for using, 2459 interactions with other thickeners,
3366 393-94 freezing in vacuum of, 1324 4-44-45
Root Vegetable Jus, 5161, 163 infrared freezing using, 1310-311, 2258 natural source for, 1253, 257
So us Vide Root Vegetables, 549, 53 blackbodies and, 1285 fruit disassembly with, 2458, 462 product guide for, 41I-III
Lefeuvre, Clemence, 4218 measuring, 1287 ice cream freezing with, 1311 properties and uses of, 442-43
legumes. See also specific legumes radiation and, 1284 meat grinder rinsing with, 3221, separating butterfat from cream
converting grams to volumes for, speed of, finding with microwave 224-225 with, 2-366, 368
SXXXVI oven, 2191 for Modernist kitchen, 2284 source of, 4-124
water content of, S.XLI ultraviolet. See ultraviolet radiation pacotizing and, 2407, 410 thickening with, parametric recipe
Leidenfrost,Johann Gottlob, 1317 peeling eggs with, how to, 478 for, 4-46, 47
IN OEX LXXXVII
L LONG ISLAND ICED TEA GEL SHOT
Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 4141

lotus root
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root
Tempura with Smoked White Soy
Sauce, 5197, 2.01
lungo
blanding phase and, 4 388
evolution of, 4379
Lutaud, Christian, 134
lutefisk, 32.00
M
Mac and Cheese, 3387
maltodextrin DE 8, for edible films,
parametric recipe for, 4-60
maltodextrin DE 19, for set foams,
parametric recipe for, 42.88-2.89
Maltrin, thickening with, 4 30
Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, alkaline marinades for, 3 194 macchiato, 4393 parametric recipe for, 4-30
5167, 169 lychees mackerel Maltrin MIOO
lotus root chips, parametric recipe for, Fricassee of Fava Beans and Lychees, cooking so us vide, parametric recipe for light foams, parametric recipe
332.8 5171, 173 for, 3102. for, 42.70
L'Oustau de Baumanilhe, 149 Lychee and Lime Soda, 42.68 Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, for se t foams, parametric recipe for,
lovage, Romans ' use of, 111 preserving, parametric recipe for, 41 75 42.88-2.89
Low Fat "Cream," 457 3348 macroclimates, wine and, 4-329 mandarins
low-acyl (LA) gellan Shaved Foie Gras, 3177 mad cow disease cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, politics of, J.J60-161 for, 32.91
4140 42.33 prions and, 1156 Mandarin Leather, 3369
concentrations for fluid gels of, 4V lyophilization, 2. 444. See also freeze- sheep and, 1157 Manet, Edouard, 118
for edible films, parametric recipe drying spread of, 1159 mangoes
for, 460 Madeira Gel<!e, 512.5, 131 Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4311
for fluid gels, parametric recipe for, Madrid Fusi6n, 159 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
4 177 magnesium, as alkali earth metal, 4126 for, 32.88, 2.90
as foam stabilizer, 42.57 magnetic stirring bar dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe dispersing thickeners with, 42.4, 2.5 3366
for, 4165 hydrating thickeners with, 42.6 Green Mango and Cashew Salad,
for hot gels, parametric recipe for, hydrocolloid dispersion with, 438 5167, 169
4160 for Modernist kitchen, 2.2.84 preserving, parametric recipe for,
interactions with other thickeners, for vacuum reduction, 2-380 3348
4-44-45 Maillard, Louis Camille, 2.343, 392. mannitol, Frozen White "Truffle/
as ion-based coagulant, 4-124, 127, Maillard reaction 3400-401
12.9 baking and, 2.108 Manresa, 1-67
for light foams, parametric recipe browning onions and, 3 -277 maple syrup
for, 42.70 century eggs and, 483 grades of, 577
product guide for, 4Il-III coffee roasting and, 4358, 360 Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 512.5, 12.8
properties and uses of, 4 42.- 43, 72. color changes in cooking meat and production process for, 12.56
for spherification, parametric recipe seafood and, 3 94 Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 512.5, 12.8
for, 4187 crustaceans and, 3 -30, 87 Marangoni effect, 4353
for thick foams, parametric recipe deep-frying and, 2.12.2. marbling
for, 4 2.78-2.79 dry-aging meat and, 341 tenderness and, 3-78
low-carbohydrate diets, 12.42. flavors produced by, 2. 198, 389-91 in Wagyu beef, 319, 36
low-density lipoproteins (LDL), 12.2.6, heterocyclic amines and, 1-220 Marchesi, Gualtiero
2.2.7 history of, 392. Nouvelle cuisine and, 1-28
Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 32.48 meat cooking methods and, 2.343 Risotto Milanese recipe, 3306-307
low-fat diets, 12.41 modern methods ofbraising and, Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 52.81,
low-methoxyl (LM) pectin 2. 98 2.82.
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, mollusks and, 387 Maremoto, 1-70
4 140 oil temperature and, 2.12.2. margarine, health risks of butter vs.,
for edible films, parametric recipe pot-roasting and, 2.96 12.31
for, 460 pressure-cooking and, 32.98 Marinated Crab Salad, 5189, 191
as gelling agent, 468 ripening of cured meat or seafood Marinated Geoduck, Young Ginger,
interactions with thickeners, 4-44-45 and, 3173 Shiso, 5197, 2.00
as ion-based coagulant, 412.4, 12.7, searing before vacuum packing and, Marinated Ogo, 5175, 177
12.9 2.2.68 Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 5147, 149
product guide for, 4Il-III smoking and, 2.141 marinating, 3190-2.07
properties and uses of, 4 42.-43, 72. steak frying and, 374 with acid, 3192.-193
spherification using, 4184 stir-frying and, 2.48, 54 with alcohol, 3195, 198
low-pressure drying, 2.433 sugar in sausage and, 3-226 with alkaline substances, 3194-195
low-temperature, long-time (LTLT) vegetables and, 2.58 with curries, 3196-197
pasteurization, 1-188 Mainstone,John, 49 of eggs, in vinegar, 475
low-temperature cooking. See also target Maison Troisgros, 173. See also with enzymes, 3195
core temperature Troisgros, Pierre and Jean example recipes for, 3199-2.06,
domestic ovens and, 1-207 maitake mushrooms, Sauteed Maitake 52.33
of meat and seafood, 394-95 Mushroom, 511, IS fermentation and, 3198
sous vide technique and, 2-242 malaise, general, common pathogens marinades for
thermometer accuracy and, causing, 1114 acidic, for stomach and intestines,
12.06-2.07 Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 5167, 168 3143
low-temperature steam mode Malaysian Steamed Snapper plated-dish calcium chloride in, 3-76
in combi ovens, 2-167 recipe, 5167-169 strategies for, 3192.
in CVap water-vapor oven, 2.158, 159 malic acid, as acidifier, 2-314 marine-based hydrocolloids
ovens using, 2-155 Malt Vinegar Powder, 434 gelling agents from, 468, 12.6
LTLT (low-temperature, long-time) maltodextrin for kitchen use, 412.4
pasteurization, 1188 as bulking agent with spray-dried thickening agents from, 45, 19
L2.0 (restaurant), 169 powders, 2.442. marmalade
Lucas Carton, wine pairing at, 4-352 drying plant foods with, 3365 Mushroom Marmalade, 52.15, 2.17
Olive Marmalade, 499
LXXXVIII INDEX
MELTING POINTS
marmalade (continued) McGuckian, Ambrose T., 1-40 meats (continued) meats (continued)
Roasted Scallion Marmalade, S-253, measures FDA time-and-temperature table for, trimmings from, for searing flavor
255 conversion factors for, 1183, 185, 187 without presearing, 2-268
Shiitake Marmalade, 55, 7 5-XXXVIII-XXXIX as fining agent, 2359, 360 vegetarian dishes simulating, 3388
Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5229, 230 volume, converting, S.XXXIX flavor and temperature of, 3-88-89 water content of, 5XL
"Marmite broth," parametric recipe for, weights and, 1-94-95 flavor of, Maillard reaction and, of young vs. older animals, juiciness
2304-305 meats. See also specific meats 389-91 and, 3-79, 81
marrow. See also veal marrowbones aging of, 3-39 freeze-drying, critical temperature meat band saw, for Modernist kitchen,
characteristics and cooking of, 3-144 enzymes and, 339, 41,78 for, 2446 2 -285
Marshall, Agnes, 1-60, 64-65 holding at specific temperature gassing, for color, chemistry of, 395 meat batter, 3-222
Marx, Thierry, 1-64 and, 2-247-248 gels and. See meat gels Meat Cuts and Muscle Foods (Swatland),
Masala Curry, 590, 91, 98 artificial, 3220. See also sausages glue and, 3250-256, 470. See also 3-44
mascarpone cheese blanching, 2269 Act iva meat gels
parametric recipe for, 456 brining, 3152, 154-156, 158 grading, 335-36, 39 embedding meat in, 3250
Shrimp and Grits, 3377 best bets for, 3172 grinding of emulsified sausages, 3222
Mason, Sam equilibrium, how-to, 3170-171 grinders for. See meat grinders myosin as, 370, 222-223
aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4 -37 speeding strategies for, 3166, 173 tools for, 3230-233 for sausage-making, 3-70, 222-223
chocolate water and, 2-374-375 chemicals as preservatives for, 1144 grinding fat and, how to, 3-228 meat glue, 3250-256, 4 70. See also
Modernist cuisine and, 1-67 chopping tools for, 3230-233 ground Act iva
mass, conservation of, 1-331 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, converting grams to volume for, meat grinders
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 3210 S.XLII bit-and-plate, 3-231, 233
Carl G. Sontheimer Prize for color of, 312, 14-15 for stock, 2-290 cutaway illustration of, 3 -229
Excellence in Innovation and cooked, red droplets on, 3 -14 juiciness of, age of animal and, 379, grinding plates for, typical aperture
Creativity in Design of, 2-412 cooked and finely chopped, 81 sizes of, 3228
Massialot, Fran~ois, French cuisine volumetric equivalents for leftover, chemistry of flavor of, 391 liquid nitrogen rinse of, 3221,
and, 1-19 amounts of, S.XLV marinating, 3190-207 224-225
Master Cleanse, of toxin s, 1-248 cooking, 3-70-115 meat glue and, 3250-256 Meat Inspection Act, 335
master recipes, parametric recipes on bone, 2-243 muscle and meat slicers
compared to, 1-97 braising, how to, 299 characteristics of, 36-19 Berkel, 3-44
masting, as synchronized fruit ripening, collagen role in, 3-80-81 converting into meat, 332-36, 39, for Modernist kitchen, 2-286
3-284 color and appearance of, 392-93 41-42 for very thin slices, 3-50
Mathematica (computer program), cooling strategies for, 2-256 punctured, hazards of, 1176 meat tenderizers
1-63-64, 282 defects of cured meat, chemistry raw, 3-62-69 Jaccard. See Jaccard tenderizers
Matsuhisa, Nobu of, 3-165 example recipes for, 3-65-68 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286
Miso-Cured Black Cod recipe, 3-179 flavor and, 3-84, 87-91 fat content of, 5-XLIII penetrating, hazards with, 1-176
New International cuisine and, 130 gelatin from, 4-67 red. See red meat meatballs, as coarse sausage, 3 222, 230
matsutake mushrooms, Bincho ~Tan grilling and. See grilling resting meatloaf, as coarse sausage, 3222
Grilled Sea Cucumber Maitake ideal temperature for, 3-89 effects of, 3-84 mechanical tenderizing, of meat, 350-51
Mushroom, Shisito Pepper, 5-197,203 innards of, 3-136-151 juices and, 2-105 food safety and, 1191
Maurere, Wilhelm, 2-407 juiciness and, 379, 83 restructured food borne illnesses and, 1-176
maw, 3142-143 muscles and, 35 meat glue and, 3-250-256 muscle structure and, 3 -10
Maximin, Jacques, 1-34 myth of searing to seal juices and, sausage as. See sausages medals, for wines, 4338-339
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree 3-85 salting. See brining; c uring medical dietary systems, 1-222-239
recipe, 2-426 optics of, 393-94 sausages. See sausages Mediterranean diet, 1232, 241, 242
Maxwell, James Clerk, 1-265,285 pot-roasting and, how to, 299 slaughtering practices for medlars, bletting to ripen, 3283
Mayans, gastronomy of, 113 red, in combi ovens vs. water baths, Grandin's research on, 3 36 Lo mejor de Ia gastronomia, 159
mayonnaise 2-167-168 quality and, 3-32, 34-35 melanoidin pigments, in fruits and
Basic Mayonnaise, 4226, 5233 safe, principles for, 1191 slicers for, 2-286,3 -44, SO vegetables, 2-267
Eggless Mayonnaise, 4 232 searing and, 2-58, 269, 385 smoking, 3208-219 Melitta coffee brewer, 4 -369
as emulsion, 4-199 simplified cooking standards for, best bets for, 3-210 melons
separation and, 3224 1-192 example recipe for, 3213 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3392
viscosity of, 4-204 skin and, 3-116-129, 133-135 ideal surface for, 3211 compressing, parametric recipe for,
Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 4 -227 sous vide, 2201, 276-279 parametric recipe for, 3 210 3390
low-fat, 4226 sous vide, on bone vs. fillet, 2-207 sources for, S.XXXIII cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
MC. See methylcellulose stages from raw to cooked and, for stocks, 2-288 for, 3-288
MCC. See microcrystalline cellulose 3-76,78-79 tartares and, 3-62-69 Ham Consomme with Melon Beads,
McCracken, Brain, Modernist raviolo succulence and, 3-83-84 temperature and flavor of, 388-89 4-48
al'uovo of, 4-190 tenderness and, 3-70, 76 tender cuts of. See tender cuts of meat heat-treating, parametric recipe for,
McCrady's, 1-67, 83 trade-offs in, 394-95 tenderizing enzymes in, 378 3-359
McDonald's, corporate control and white and gray droplets on surface tenderizing of impregnating, parametric recipe for,
protests against, 1-22-23 during, 394 food safety and, 1-191 3390
McGee, Harold cured, ripening of, 3-167, 173 foodborne illnesses and, 1176 Melon Caviar, 4 -189
biography of, 1-43 curing, 3158-162, 165-166 mechanical, 1-176, 191, 310, 50-51 Melon Water, 2340
Blumenthal and, 1-50 best bets for, 3-172 muscle structure and, 310 preserving, parametric recipe for,
on cold gels, 4-140 speeding strategies for, 3-166, 173 tenderizers for, 1-176,2-286. See 3-348
Brice Conference and, 144, 45 cutting, 344-50 also Jaccard tenderizers Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg,"
on experimental cooking, 1-57-58 tools for, 3230-233 tenderness of, 3-10-11 4194
on flipping food during pan frying, dark. See dark meat; red meat Warner- Bratzler tenderometer Watermelon Chips, 3-328
238 extended and simplified 6.SD estimates of, 3-77 Watermelon Meat, 3-394, S-285
food science and, 15, 42, 44, 52 Salmonella reduction in, 1193 tough cuts of. See tough cuts of meat Watermelon Rind Kimchi, S-285, 286
Mac and Cheese recipe, 3387 fat, as tough cut, science of, 3-83 Trichinella contamination of, 1117- melon chips, parametric recipe for, 3-328
on Modernist cuisine explosion, 1-46 fat component of, 315, 18 118, 120, 121, 122,179 melting points. See also freezing point
on searing meat to seal in juices, 3 85 offrying oils, 2126
INDEX LXXXIX
MEMBRANE-TYPE VACUUM PUMPS
membranetype vacuum pumps microbes. See also bacteria; pathogens; microwaves mint, freeze-drying, parametric recipe
filtration with, 2354, 357 viruses definition of, 2182 for, 3372
for Modernist kitchen, 2284 contamination by freeze-drying and, 2444 miracle berry, Nigerian, 2-465
vacuum reduction using, 2 380, 381 bad odors from sealed bags and, Middle Ages, gastronomy of, 112 mirepoix, for stocks, 2 -288
membranes, reverse osmosis through, 2214 middle run, in distillation, 2384 mirin, Yakitori, 3-201
2379, 396 shellfish foraging and, 327- 28 Mie scattering, in emulsions, 4-203 miscible substances, 1331, 332
memory gelling agents from, 4 126 milk. See also milks Miso-Cured Black Cod, 3179
Blumenthal's use of, 151 as germs, 1106-109 allergies to, 1238 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 487
Garcia's use of, 1-57 microbiology of, 1106-109 almond, parametric recipe for, 4-56 mise-cured egg yolks, parametric recipe
Memphis BBQSauce, 566, 70 Pasteur on food spoilage and, 2 75 butter from, 392 for, 482
Memphis Rub, 566, 68 microbial-based hydrocolloids, as Cappuccino Foam, 4 266 mixers
Meneau, Marc, Cromesquis recipe, thickeners, 4 1 9 carotenoid pigments and, 392 foam forming with, 4 258
3340 microbiology, 1102- 161 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise, 489 for Modernist kitchen, 2287
merguez, parametric recipe for, offoodborne illnesses, 1110-119 chocolate, as colloidal suspension, MKS (meter, kilogram, second) units,
3236-237 offoodborne pathogens, 1108-109 4176 1272
meringues of microbes as germs, 1106-109 chufa. See chufa milk mock dishes, types of, 3388
Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5161, microscopes for study of, 1107 colors of, 392, 4202 Mock Turtle Soup, 2394
165 of parasitic worms, 1120-125 cow, allergies to, 1238 modern ovens. See also combi ovens;
Green Olive Meringue, 4298 ofprions, 1156-161 dairy-based emulsions and, 4218 convection ovens; CVap water-vapor
as set foam, 4247 of protists, 1126-129 colors of, 4202 ovens; microwave ovens; ovens;
meta-analysis scientific names in, 1112 fat content and steaming of, 4391, water-vapor ovens
definition of, 1216 of viruses, 1152- 156 392 heat and humidity control testing in,
of dietary fat and heart disease, microclimates, wine and, 4 329 foaming agent in, 4 251 2156-157
1230 microcrystalline cellulose (MCC) fresh, frigi-canning and, 284 improvement proposals for, 2167
randomized trials vs ., 1-219 interactions with other thickeners, goat temperature control by, 2112
of salt and hypertension, 1236, 237 444-45 carotenoid pigments and, 392 Modern Cure, for brining or curing,
of statins and heart disease, 1227 product guide for, 4IV-V color of, 4202 3158
metal searing bars, in gas grills, 211 properties and uses of, 442-43 Goat Milk Ricotta, 4108 Modernism. See also Modernist cuisine
metallic bonding, 1296 as thickener, 4 1 2- 13 hydrating LAgellan with, 4 124-125 as megatrend in culture, 117- 18
metals thickening with, parametric recipe Milk Foam, 531, 33 Nouvelle cuisine and, 1-52, 56
alkali earth, 4 126 for, 4 47 Milk Skin, 5205 as revolution in culture, 1-52
conductivity of, 1277 microemulsions, science of, 4 -205 Mi lk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Modernist Bechamel, 4 31
metastability Micrographia (Hooke), 1107 Truf!le Puree, 4114 Modernist Burrata, 4109
of emulsions, 4 199 microorganisms, 1-106. See also as oil-in-water emulsion, 4199 Modernist cuisine
offoams, 4248 bacteria; microbes; viruses parametric recipe for, 456 Achatz and, 168
methanol, as ethanol distillation microoxygenation (MOX), in powdered, in fermented sausage, Adria, e!Bulli, and, 133-40
by-product, 2384 viticulture, 4330-331 3246 in America, 1-67
Methocel E4M, for edible films, Microplane graters soy Blumenthal, The Fat Duck, and,
parametric recipe for, 4-60 Adria 's use of, 136, 3388 Frozen White "Truf!le," 3-400-401 149-51
Methocel SGA 150, for edible films, cutting vegetables for frying with, Soy Milk, 458 Capel and, 159
parametric recipe for, 4-60 3327 steaming in Chicago, 169
methylcellulose (MC) microporous filtration, 1-335 for espresso, 4391-395 copying in, history of, 171
for cellulose gum gels, parametric microscopes, history and parts of, 1107 how to, 4390 critical responses to, history of,
recipe for, 4 170, 171 microwave ovens Strawberry Milk Shake, 2473, 511 162-63
for filtering or clarifying, 2352 characteristics of, 2182- 183, 189 Toasted Rice Milk, 459 cryogens in, 160-66, 68, 70
as fining agent, 2359, 360 cutaway illustration of, 2186-187 viscosity of, 46 forms of dishes in, 154- SS
foam, 4 255 drying in, 2430 milk curd, basic, parametr ic recipe for, fut ure of, 172-73, 76-77
gels, best bets for, 4 171 FDA rules on, 1189 4104 history of, 132-51
interac tions with other thickeners, heating small foods slowly in, Milk Foam, 531, 33 ideas and owners in, 1-70- 72
444-45 physics of, 2188 milk frother. See also Aerolatte milk Ideas in Food blog and, 166, 67
product guide for, 4 IV-V invention of, 122, 2182-183 frother ingredients for. See Modernist
properties and uses of, 442-43 for Modernist ki tchen, 2287 for espresso, 4391 ingredients
Santamaria on, 1-258 moisture content of food and, 2153 foam forming with, 4258, 260 kitchen for. See Modernist kitchen
thermo-reversible gels from, 4 127 myths and reality of, physics of, milk shake machine novelty as cult in, 158-60
methylcellulose A4C, for thick foams, 2190 foam forming with, 4 258, 259 Pralus and, 142
parametric recipe for, 4278-279 parts of, 2184 for Modernist kitchen, 2287 principles of, 156
methylcellulose E4M, for hot fr uit gels, plant food cooking in, 3310- 313 Milk Skin, 5205 as revolution, 15, 52-77
parametric recipe for, 4-165 radiant heat from, 1277 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Roca and, 158
methylcellulose FSO, for set foams, safety, 2190 Truf!le Puree, 4114 Santos and, 159
parametric recipe for, 4 288-289 speed of light in, physics of finding, milks, making, best bets for, 456 science in the kitchen and, 142,
metmyoglobin, 393 2-191 Millau, Christian, 124, 26 44-49
metric units, converting energy and strategies for using, 2185 milling. See also grinding; pureeing seeds of, 132-51
power units using, 1272-273 Microwaved BeefJerky, 3 184, 543 equipment for, 2-401-402,404. See sous vide at home and, 1-73
Meyer Lemonade, 2340 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, also colloid mills in Spain, history of, 157
miang kham, 5189 4294 example recipes for, 2419, 3377 spread of, 138-40
Miang Paste, 5189, 190 Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and frozen nuts, 3374 Steingarten and, 165
Miang Syrup, 5189, 191 Ginger, 3115 of plant foods, 3376-377 timeline of recipes and techniques
micelle, 4199 microwaved vegetables strategies for, 2400 in, 178-81
Michelin Guide, 124, 26 example recipes for, 3312- 313 minerals, dissolved. See also dissolved trade secrets and, history of, 1-76
Micri,429 parametric recipe for, 3-311 materials utensils and plating styles in, 174-75
microaerophilic bacteria, 1-130 Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3312 hard water and, 1335 vacuum packing and, 140-42
Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot minibar (restaurant), 163, 67 wine pairing and, 4-352
Tops, 549, 53 Minnesota Coronary Survey, 1-229, 230 around the world, 170
XC INDE X
MYOTOME$
Modemist Cuisine mold Mound Builders, gastronomy of, 113 mushrooms (continued)
baker's percentage in, 1-95-97 on canned food, sterilization process mouthfeel Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
credit for recipes in, 1-100-101 and, 2-80 gel selection and, 4 -73 4-275
guide to, 1-89-91 on ripening cured meat or seafood, gelling with hydrocolloids and, Mushroom Broth, 5-11, 14
ingredients and equipment in, 3-173 4-124 Mushroom Ketchup, 511, 13
1-93-94 molded spherification, 4-184 importance of, 4-6, 10 Mushroom Marmalade, 5-215,217
photographs in, 1-88-89 molds, silicone, for Modernist kitchen, oils for deep-frying and, 2-126 Mushroom Omelet plated-dish
recipes in, 1-92-101 2-286 thickeners and, 4-12-13, 15, 17 recipe, 5-215-217
types of, 1-97-100 Molecular and Physical Gastronomy thickening and, 45 Mushroom Puree, 5-215, 216
weights and measures in, 1-94-95 conference, Erice, Italy (1992), MOX (microoxygenation), in Mushroom Swiss Burger plated-dish
writing and producing, story of, 1-44-46, 65 viticulture, 4 -330-331 recipe, 511-15
1-82-91 molecular gastronomy mozoku, 5-28 preserving, parametric recipe for,
Modernist Fried Chicken, 3-337 critics on mad scientists and, 162 mozzarella cheese 3-348
Modernist ingredients, 1-250-259 goals of, historical shifts in, 1-47 Mozzarella Balloons, 4-110-111 puree of
as additives, perceptions of, as Modernist cooking, 1-46-47 Mozzarella Powder, 2-411 Mushroom Puree, 5-215, 216
1-252-254 origins of, 1-44 MSG (monosodium glutamate) parametric recipe for, 2425
chemical processes for, 1-250 - 252 This on, 1-46 for brines and cures, 3160 Muslim Curry Sauce, 5-89-91,93
chemical processing of common mollusks. See also clams; mussels; safety of, 1-213 muslin sheets, for filtering, 2-351
foods in, 1-256 octopus; oysters; scallops; snails; mucilage, of coffee beans, 4-358 mussel jus, parametric recipe for,
as chemistry, health concerns about, squid Mugaritz, 1-57. See also Aduriz, Andoni 2-344-345
1-212 biology of, 3-24-26 Luis mussels
informed decisions about, 1-258-259 Maillard reaction of, 3-87 Mughal Curry Sauce, 5-89, 90, 92 biology of, 3-26,27
natural ingredients vs., 1254-255 Monell Chemical Senses Center, 4-335 mule duck, foie gras production in, cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
new naturals for, 1257 Monet, Claude, 1-17, 18 3-138 for, 3-103
Santamaria's claims about, 1258 monkfish Multiple Risk Factor Intervention Trial, Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres,
sources for, 5.XXXIII cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 1-229 4-191
Modernist kitchen, 2-280-473 for, 3 -102 multistep deep-frying, 2-122-123 Sous Vide Mussel, 5-151, 154
concentrates in, 2378-397 Monkfish with Constructed Skin, mung beans, puffed, parametric recipe Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2 -346
cryogenic freezing and carbonation 3-132 for, 4 -302 Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
in, 2-456-473 Monkfish with Mediterranean Munster cheese, Alsatian Munster Sabayon, 4 -274
drying in, 2-428-455 Flavors plated-dish recipe, Sausage, 5-35, 39 mustard
equipment for, sources of, 5-151-155 Murata, Yoshihiro Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 5-35, 37
5.XXX-XXXII in Seared Hamachi, 5-147, 149 Hon Dashi recipe, 2-306 Mustard Vinaigrette, 4-231
extracting flavors in, 2-288-317 Sous Vide Monkfish Pave, 5-151, 155 Peanut "Tofu" and and, 4-122 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,
filtering in, 2350-377 uniform musculature of, 353 Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, 5-281,283
infusing essences in, 2318-331 monkfish liver, Ankimo Torchon, 3147 Sesame, Ponzu recipe, 5197, 202 mustard seeds, preserving, parametric
juicing in, 2-332-349 monoglycerides, as surfactant muria, 5121 recipe for, 3-348
particle size reduction in, 2398-427 emulsifiers, 4-216- 217 Muscat grapes Myhrvold, Nathan
tools for monosodium glutamate (MSG) Compressed Muscat Grapes, 5-109, on first God shot, 4-375
classic, 2-287 for brines and cures, 3160 110 Pacojets and, 2-407
handy special-purpose, 2-285 safety of, 1-213 in Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy on writing Modernist Cuisine, 183
inexpensive but valuable, 2286 monounsaturated fat, 1222 Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, and Miso myocommata, 321
must-have, 2-284 Montagne, Prosper, 1-9 Powder, 5-197,200 myofibrils, 3-6, 8-9
technology and, 2-283, 286 Monterey Jack cheese, Cheese in a White Grape Syrup, 452 myoglobin
Modernist raviolo al'uovo, 4-190 Tube, 4 -225 muscle fibers, 3-6 cooked food color and appearance
Modernist sausages, example recipes moose, chronic wasting disease in, muscles, 3-6-31 and, 3-92-93
for, 3-248-249 1-159 in cephalopods, 3-24-25 on cooked meat surfaces, 3 14
modified starches morels contracting, 3-8-9 gassing meat and, chemistry of, 3-95
best bets for thickening with, 4-30 Green Asparagus and Morels with converting to meat or seafood of, oxidation of meat and, 2-201,3 -12,
as foam stabilizers, 4-257 Asparagus Jus, 2-341 3-32-43 14
natural source for, 1257 Mushroom Puree, 5-215, 216 cooking meat and seafood and, 35 oxygen levels and states of, 393
organic label for, 1-245 Stuffed Morels, 5-113, 117 fast-twitch. See fast-twitch muscles in seal meat, 315
modified-atmosphere packing, for sous Moroccan Batbout Flat Bread, 5-135, fat and, 315, 18-19 searing meat and, 385
vide, 2-212 139 meat color and, 3-12-15, 16-17 in tuna, 321
moist air, example recipes for cooking Morrison, William, 160 in seafood, 3-20-31 myosepta, 3-21
with, 2-176-177, 180-181 mortadella, parametric recipe for, slowtwitch. See slowtwitch muscles myosin
moisture. See also humidity; hydration 3-238-239 tenderness and, 3-10-11 frictional heat and, 3-230
in deep-frying, 2 -115, 116-117, mortar and pestle, 2-400 working of, 3-6-31 Jaccard tenderizers and, 3 -51
118-119, 125 Morton Tender Quick curing salt museums, freeze-drying by, 2-444 as meat gel, 3-70, 222
in food for brining or curing, 3-158 mushroom jus as meat glue, 3-250
humectants and, 2-428 composition of, 3-161 Mushroom Jus, 2-348 in muscle, 36
microwave ovens and, 2153 Moschion, 1-13 parametric recipe for, 2 -344-345 myotomes, 3-21, 23
in shallow frying, 2-127-128 Motecuhzoma, 113 mushrooms. See also specific types of
watervapor ovens and . See CVap motility, of bacteria, 1-130 mushrooms
watervapor ovens; watervapor moto (restaurant), 1-67, 69, 72 . See also cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
ovens Cantu, Homaro for, 3-289, 290
Mojitos, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, motorized aspirators dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
4 -188 for Modernist kitchen, 2284 3-366
molasses vacuum filtration with, 2-356 freezedrying, parametric recipe for,
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, for vacuum reduction, 2380 3-372
3-183 motors, power output of, 1274 infusion of, parametric recipe for,
Molasses Butter, 2-331 Moulard duck, foie gras production in, 2-310
3138
INDEX XCI
N NACKA SYSTEM
N
New York City Noren, Nils nuts (continued)
health department of on agar for clarifying liquids, 2-372 milling, 3-376
on salt content of processed food, Beet juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 3-206 seasonal melanges with, 3-294
1-237 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil typical
Nacka system, Swedish hospitals and sous vide rules of, 1-188, 195 recipe, 2-367 fat content of, 5-XLIII
vacuum packing using, 1-40 Modernist cuisine in, 1-69 on Fizz-Giz system, 3 -207 water content of, 5-XLI
nailbrushes New International cuisine in, 130 freeze filtration and, 2-369 vo lumetric equivalents for amounts
for handwashing, 1-196-197, 198 The New York Times Magazine, 1-188 French fries by, 3322 of,S-XLV
for mushroom washing, 1-199 New Zea land, screw tops for wine Parmesan "Polenta" recipe, 4-181 N-Zorbit (N-Zorbit M)
naked frying, 3-317,321 bottles in, 4 -344-345 Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, for edible films, parametric recipe
best bets for, 3-320 Newtonian fluids, 4-6 3-324 for, 4-60
chemistry of, 3320 Nigerian miracle berry, 2-465 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, Spinach Paper, 3-369
coated frying vs., 3-316, 318-319 nigiri sushi, how to slice fish for, 3-60 4-97 thickening with, 45, 7, 13, 19, 30,
naked portafilters, 4 -385. See also 19th-Century-Style Lobster with pressure-cooked stock testing by, 34-36
crotch less portafilters Sherry and Cocoa, 3107 2-87 parametric recipes for, 430, 60
nanoemulsions, 4 -238-239 nisin, as food preservative, 1144-145 on unvented pressure-cookers for
example recipes for, 4 -238-239 nitrates. See also sa ltpeter; sodium stocks, 2-292
science of, 4205 nitrate normale, evolution of, 4-379
nanofiltration, in viticulture, 4330 chemistry of, 3-160 noroviruses (Norwalk-like viruses)
Nanophyetus sa /mineola, 1-124 in cured meats, safety of, 1143 food contamination by, 1-154
Napa cabbage intolerance to, 1-239 food borne illnesses due to,
Braised Napa Cabbage, 5-109, Ill in sel rose, 3-162 1-153- 154
Kimchi, 3-352 USDA on cured foods with, 3-165 spreading, mathematics of, 1-153
Napoleon Bonaparte, 2-75, 84 nitrites. See also sodium nitrite North Carolina (Eastern Region) BBQ
Napoleon III, 2-84, 4-331-332 benefits of, 3-165 Sauce, 5-66, 70
NASA (National Aeronautics and Space chemistry of, 3-160 North Carolina (Lexington-Style) BBQ
Administration), 1-40-42 for food preservation, 1-144-145 Sauce, 5-66, 71
National Advisory Committee on USDA on cured foods with, "The Nose Smells What the Eye Sees;
Microbiological Criteria for Foods, 3-165-166 4-335
1-181 Nitro Green Tea Sour, dramatic effects nostalgia. See memory
National Aeronautics and Space of, 1-51 nougatine, Dried Cherry and Hazelnut
Administration (NASA), 1-40-42, Nitro Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice Nougatine, 5-267, 270
195,3-372 Cream, dramatic effects of, 151 Le Nouveau Guide, 1-24, 26
National Gum and Mica Company, 4-40 NitroCream LLC, 1-63 Nouvelle cuisine
National Institutes of Health, 1-215 nitrogen Adria's study of, 1-34
National Pork Board, 1-179 Guinness beer cans pressurized development of, 1-5, 24, 26-31
National Starch, 4-40 with, 4-251 Modernism and, 1-52, 56
National Toxicology Program, 1-220 liquid . See liquid nitrogen reductions and, 411
Native Americans, acorn cooking by, phase diagram of, 1-303 stocks vs ., for extracting flavors,
1-6 solubility in water of, 1-330, 333, 2-288
natural convection 4-243 Nouvelle Premiere trains, France, 1-41
from air, heat transfer coefficient of, wine preservation with, 4346, 348 Novation Prima 600, thickening with,
1-283 nitrogen dioxide, 3-95 4 -30
definition of, 1-282 nitrosamines parametric recipe for, 4-30
natural foods, toxins in, 3-267 chemistry of, 3-160 novelty, cult of, 1-58-60
Navel Orange Salad, 5 -135, 138 conversion of nitrates into, 3-165-166 NSEW technique, for grooming
navy beans in cured meats, safety of, 1-143 espresso, 4-381, 383
Baked Beans, 5 -67, 77 nitrous oxide (N02) nucleate boiling, 1-316,317
Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, as foaming gas, 4 -255, 256 thin sauces and, 2-68
581, 83 solubility in water of, 1-332 nucleation sites
necrotizing enteritis, 1 141 Noble, Ann, 4-339 boiling and, 1-316
nectarines, cooking sous vide, Nobu, New International cuisine and, in a Champagne flute, 4-333
parametric recipe for, 3288 1-29 etched on glass, for beer or
nematodes, 1-120-123 Noguchi, Soichi, 2-445 Champagne, 4 -251
anisakid, 1-122- 123 Noma, 1-70. See also Redzepi, Rene phase changes and, 1-304
Ascaris lumbricoides as, 1123 noncirculating water baths, for sous nucleus of the solitary tract, 4-341
Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis; vide cooking, 2-232, 234 Nukazuke, 3-354
trichinellosis nonclimacteric fruits, ripening, Nurses' Health Study, 1-214, 230-231,
nervous system, prion diseases and, 3-283-284 241
1-156-157 noninflammatory diarrhea, 1-114 nut butter
Nespresso capsule system, 4-400 noninvasive infections milling, 2-418
nettles, cooking sous vide, parametric bacteria causing, 1-133, 135-136, for set foams, parametric recipe for,
recipe for, 3-290 138-141 4-288-289
neurologic symptoms, common definition of, 1-110 nutmeg extract, parametric recipe for,
pathogens causing, 1-114 nonionic compounds, 1-330 2-326
New American cuisine, history of, nonmedical dietary systems, 1-240-249 nutmeg infusion, parametric recipe for,
1-28-29 nonpolar, definition of, 4 -199 2-310
The New England Journal of Medicine, nonpolar solvents, 1330 nutritional epidemiology, 1-218-220
1-213 noodles. See also pasta nuts. See also specific types of nuts
New Guinea, cannibalism and kuru in, freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, about, 5244
1-159 2-451 converting grams to volumes for,
New International cuisine, history of, gel, how to extrude, 4-138 S.XXXVII
1-29-31 with peristaltic pump, 4-139 frozen, milling of, 3-374
XCII INDEX
OXTAIL
0
oats
okra
Crispy Okra, S-90, 97
preserving, parametric recipe for,
3-348
Raw Okra, S-97
onions (continued)
Onion Fluid Gel, 4-183
Onion Gratin, S-261, 265
Onion Rings, 3342-343, 511
Onion Sable, S-261, 263
ostrich, cooking so us vide, parametric
recipe for, 3-99
Ostwald ripening
as emulsion failure, 4212
in foams, 4 -249
Candied Puffed Oats, S-125, 128 oleic acid, 1-233, 234 Onion Stock, S-261, 264 ouzo/ pastis effect and, 4-211
Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, oleoresins, 2-320 Onion Tart plated-dish recipe, Oud Sluis, 1-70
3-308 olive oil S-261-265 L'Oustau de Baumaniere, 149
Toasted Oat jus, S-126, 133 Black Olive Oil, S-193, 195 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2425 outgassing, decanting wine and, 4-342,
obesity, 1-23, 243 chemistry of, 1-233, 2-126 Root Vegetable jus, S-161, 163 343
weight loss diets and, 1-240-241 fatty acids in, 1-234 smoking, parametric recipe for, Outhier, Louis, 126
observation bias, nutritional studies heart disease and, 1-232, 234 3-362 ouzo effect, science of, 4211
and, 1-218 Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 4-147 Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, oven finishing, in sous vide cooking,
octopus Olive Oil "Margarine," 4-235 S-219, 221 2-270
biology of, 3-24-25 Olive Oil Noodles, 4 -146 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, S-49, 53 oven mitts
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Olive Oil Spread, 451 Sweet Onion Salsa, S-175, 177 conduction in, 1-277,280
for, 3-108 smoking, parametric recipe for, Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions, silicone, 1-280
Smoked Octopus, 3-215 3-362 517, 19 ovens, 2-150-191
Sous Vide Octopus, S-193, 194 Thickened Oil, 4 230 Turbot with Onion and Marrow braising using, 2-96
odds ratio, nutritional studies and, Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 435 Broth, 3-105 combi. See com hi ovens
1-219 olives. See also Black Olive entriesi green onsen eggs, parametric recipe for convection. See convection ovens
odors olives cooking, 4-78 conventional, convection and
agreeable. See aromas preserving, parametric recipe for, onsen tamago, 4 -75, 78 radiant heat in, 1-286
bad 3-348 oocysts evo lution of uses for, 2 -101
microbial taints and, 1135 omega-3 fats, 1-231- 232 Cryptosporidium parvum, 1-129 foam forming with, 4-258
from sealed bags, 2-214 Omelet Base, S-215, 217 definition of, 1-115 humidity in, 2-102
offensive, when cooking cured meat omelets Entamoeba histolytica, 1-129 heat control and, 2-153
or seafood, 3-165 in combi oven vs. conventional oven, Giardia intestinalis, 1-129 manufacturers of, "BTUn as used by,
of urine, asparagus and, 4-350 4-95 To xoplasma gondii, hardiness of, 1-272
Odyssey (Homer), 1-13,3-220 Ham and Cheese Omelet, 4-95 1-126, 129 microwave. See microwave ovens
Oeufs en Meurette plated-dish recipe, Japanese (tamago), parametric opacity modern. See also combi ovens; CVap
S-219-221 recipe for, 4-92 of emulsions, 4 -203 water-vapor ovens; water-vapor
offal. See innards Mushroom Omelet, S-215-217 gel selection and, 4 -73 ovens
ogo, S-28 Omelet Base, S-215, 217 "Open Cola," 4 -239 heat and humidity control testing
Marinated Ogo, S-175, 177 parametric recipe for, 4-92 optics in, 2-156-157
oil-in-water (0/ W) emulsion On Food and Cooking (McGee), 1-42, 43, cooking meat and seafood and, improvement proposals for, 2-167
con tinuous phase and, 4199 44, 49,3-85 3-93-94 temperature control by, 2-112
creaming as failure of, 4 -210 1D reduction, in bacteria for sanitizing of emulsions, physics of, 4 -203 for Modernist kitchen, 2-284
nanoemulsions as, 4238- 239 food, 1-148, 149 Orange Soda, 2-472 moist air, 2-154-181
oil-in-water-in-oil (0/ W/ 0) emulsion 160 Bloom gelatin oranges. See also blood oranges pot-roasting using, 2 -96
Bancroft's rule and, 4-203 for airs, parametric recipe for, 4264 as acidifier, 2-314 temperature control in, 1-207
continuous phase and, 4 199 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao, thermostats for, 2-111
oils, 2-114-131. See also essential oils; 4-140 S-94 vacuum, 2-433, 4 -310
frying; specific types of oils for edible films, parametric recipe cooking so us vide, parametric recipe water-vapor. See water-vapor ovens
chemical changes in, heat-induced, for, 4 -60 for, 3-291 wood-fired, 2-26-27, 33
2-123-125 for fluid gels, parametric recipe for, Hot Orange Gel, 4 -167 overcooking
coffee brewing in, 4-371 4-177 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused food safety rules and, 1-170, 191
con fit cooking in. See con fits for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe Milk,3-103 reheating and, 2-264
cryopoaching, 2-460 for, 4 -165 Mandarin Leather, 3-369 0 / W (oil-in-water) emulsion
emulsifiers in, 2-123, 125 for light foams, parametric recipe Navel Orange Salad, S-135, 138 continuous phase and, 4-199
extracting flavor with, 2-323 for, 4 -270 Orange Soda, 2 -472 creaming as fai lure of, 4-210
flash points of, 2 -126 for set foams, parametric rec ipe for, Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, nanoemulsions as, 4238-239
flavored 4-288-289 3356 0 / W/ 0 (oil-in-water-in-oil) emulsion
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut for thick foams, parametric recipe oregano, antimicrobial properties of Bancroft's rule and, 4-203
Oil, 2 -367 for, 4-278-279 wine and, 1-145 continuous phase and, 4 -199
Curry Oil, 2 -331 thickening with, parametric recipe organ meats. See innards oxidation
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2-330 for,4-47 organic food aging braises and pot roasts and,
Spiced Chili Oil, 2-330 onions as dietary system, 1-245-247 2-98
for frying, chemistry of, 2-126 Autoclaved Onion Soup, 3-302 pesticides and, 1-252-253 offats
hydrocolloid hydration and, 4 -40 compressing, parametric recipe for, Ornish, Dean, 1-242, 244 dry-aging meat and, 341
hydrolysis of, 2-123 3-390 O'Shea, jack, 3-48 freezer taste and, 1-306
melting points of, 2-126 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Osmanthus vinegar, about, 5172 flavor changes in frozen food and,
saturated vs. unsaturated, 2126 for, 3-289, 290 osmosis 2 -261
for sauteing, 2-44 dehydrating, parametric recipe for, brining and, 3-154 food preservation and, 2-252
for shallow frying, 2-127- 128 3-366 drying with salt and sugar and, 3346 myoglobin pigment in meat and,
smoke points of, 2-116, 125, 126 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 3373, freezing and thawing liver and, 3-138 2-201
smoking, parametric recipe for, S-261, 263 juicing and, 2-335, 336 vacuum packing and, 2-208
3-362 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, reverse. See reverse osmosis oxtail
stability of, 2-126 3-372 osmotic pressure, juicing and, 2-335 Boeuf in Gelee, 4-163
thickening, 4-13 Glazed Pearl Onion, S-261, 263 Osso Bucco Milanese plated-dish cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
typical, fat content of, SXLIJI impregnating, parametric recipe for, recipe, S-60-65 for, 3-109
vacuum frying and, 2-128 3-390 Osteria La Francescana, 170 Glazed Oxtail, S-49, SO
Onion Arlette, S-261, 262 Oxtail Consomme, 2-376
INDE X XCIII
OXTA IL
oxtai l (continued)
Oxtail Pho Broth, 2-307
Pot au Feu Consomme, S-49, 52
oxygen
p Paracelsus, 3-160
Paradoxurus hermaphroditus, Kopi
Luwak coffee and, 4 -360
paragonimiasis, 1124
parametric recipes (continued)
for smoked plant foods, 3-362
for spherification, 4 -186-187
for stocks, 2-296-298
myoglobin color in meat and seafood packaging, plastic parametric recipes for tender meats sous vide, 3-96
and, 3-92-93 for edge sealers, 2-222 for acidifiers, 2-314-315 for tender poultry sous vide, 399
removal from unfinished wine for impulse sealers, 2-225 for batter-frying, 3-332-333 for thick foams, 4 -278-279
bottles, 4-346 molding sausage with, 3-241 for blended egg gels, 492 for thickened hot and cold liquids,
solubility in water of, 1-330, 333, selection of, 2-210-211 for breading, 3-338-339 4-46-47
4-243 sous vide cooking and, 2-207 for brines, cures, and dry rubs, for tough meats, poultry, and
oxygenation Pacojet, 2-406-411 3-168-172 shellfish, 3-108- 109
decanting wine and, 4-342-343 breaking down food with, 2-398, for broth, 2304-305 for traditional starch thickeners,
wine aroma and, 4350 400, 406-411 for cellulose gum gels, 4 -170-171 4 -28
oxymyoglobin, 3-93 example recipes for, 2-410-411 for coarse-g round sausages, for transglutaminase gels, 4116
oyster mushrooms history of, 2-407 3-236-237 for vegetable purees, 2-424-425
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe meat batters made in beaker of, for cold gels, 4140-141 for vegetables so us vide, 3-288,
for, 3-289 3-231,233 for compressed and impregnated 289-290, 292
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 3-100 for Modernist kitchen, 2 -284 fruits and vegetables, 3-390-391 parasitic worms, 1120- 125
oysters tartares and raw meat preparation for compressed fruits and vegetables, flesh contamination and, 1117
Beef and Oyster Tartare, 366 with,3-62 3-390-391 flukes as, 1-120, 123-124
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 3-206, S-233 Pacojet Pea Soup, 2-410 for consomme, 2-374-375 food borne illnesses in U.S. and,
biology of, 3-26, 27 pacotizing, 2 -406-411 for cooked whole eggs, 4-78-79 I-III, 113
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, Pad Thai, 3385 for custards, 4-84 as food borne pathogens, 1-108
4-121 Paella Rice, 5-239, 241 for dehydrated fruits and vegetables, roundworms as, 1-120-123
cold-smoking, parametric recipe for, Paella Stock, 5-239, 240 3-366-367 tapeworms as, 1-124-125
3-210 Paella Valenciana plated-dish recipe, for edible films, 4 -60 parathas, about, 592
contamination of, 328 5-239-245 for emulsion-style sausages, Parker, Robert M.,Jr.
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Pain d 'Epices Powder, 517, 22 3-238-239 aroma sensitivity of, 4-348
for, 3-103 pale soft exudate (PSE), adrenaline and, for extracting flavor with alcohol, on Ashenfelter's Bordeaux Equation,
fecal contamination of, 1117 334 2-326 4-328
no roviruses and, 1-153, ISS palm oil, chemistry of, 2-126 for fermented sausage, 3-244-245 biography of, 4 -330
Oyster Beignet, 5-25, 28 palm olein oil, chemistry of, 2-126 for fish and shellfish sous vide, wine ratings by, 4-338, 340
Oyster Butter Emulsion, 5-233, 236 Pal~r, Charlie, New International 3-102-103 on wine taste, 4-332
Oyster Consomme, 5-205, 206 cuisine and, 1-30 for flavor infusion into fats, Parkerization, 4330
Oyster Escabeche, 5205, 206 palmitic acid, 1233 2-328-329 Parmesan cheese
Oyster Stew plated-dish recipe, pan scrapings, 2-343 for flavor-infused liquids, 2-310 Frozen White "Truffle," 3-400-401
5-205-207 pancreas, 5-32. See also sweetbreads for fluid gels, 4-177-179 infusion of, parametric recipe for,
Oysters with Cava Foam, 4277 characteristics and cooking of, 3-140 for freeze-dried fruits and 2-310
Oysters Guggenheim Bilbao, 157 paneer, parametric recipe for, 4 104 vegetables, 3-372 Parmesan Creme BrU.lee, 488
Oysters with Mignonette Air, 4-265 pan frying. See also griddles; shallow for freeze-drying, 2-450-452 Parmesan Nuggets, 4 -35
Poached Oysters, 5-233, 236 frying for froths, airs, and bubbles, 4-264 Parmesan "Polenta," 4-181
seasonal ban on, politics of, 1-171 basting and, physics of, 2-103 for fruit and vegetable chips, Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto,
Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, characteristics of, 237 3-328-329 4-143
Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, after cooking sous vide, 2 -275 for fruit purees, 2-424-425 Parmesan water, parametric recipe for,
5-197,200 flipping food in, 238-39 for fruits sous vide, 3288, 290-291 2-374-375
griddles for, 2-40- 41 for hamburgers, 3-234-235 Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese, Warm
heat transfer by conduction in, 1277 for heat-treated fruit, 3-359 Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, 4-53
a Ia plancha, 2-36-43 for hot- and cold-smoked meats and Parnell, Thomas, 4 -9
pans and burner choices for, 241-43 seafood, 3-210 parsley
pans for hot fruit and vegetable gels, Microwave-Fried Parsley, 3-312
for combi ovens, 2166 4 -164-165 Microwave-Fried Parsley and Carrot
dark-s urfaced, radiant heat and, 2-38 for hot gels, 4 -160-161 Tops, 549, 53
frying, seasoning of, 253 for impregnated fruits and Parsley Foam, 5-229, 231
for sauteing, 2-45 vegetables, 3-390-391 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425
for searing a Ia plancha, 2-41-43 for jus, 2 -344-345 Parsley Foam, 5229, 231
as vacuum containers, 2 226-227 for light foams, 4 270 parsnips
papacy, early gastronomy of, 1-10 for microwaved vegetables, 3-311 natural toxins of, 1249
papain, 3-195 for milks and creams, 4-56 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425
papayas for modern starch thickeners, 4 -30 Root Vegetable Jus, 5161, 163
Green Papaya Pickle, 5-97 in Modernist Cuisine, 1-97-98 particle size reduction, 2 -398-427
preserving, parametric recipe for, for offal sous vide, 3146 dry grinding and, 2-401-406
3-348 for pasta, 3-380-381 equations on energy to reduce, 2401
paper pod systems, for espresso, for potato purees, 3-296-297 equipment for, 2-398-427
technology of, 4 -400 for preserved and pickled eggs, 4-82 pacotizing and, 2-406-411
paper towels, disposable, kitchen for protein curds, 4-104 strategies for reducing, 2 -400-401
hygiene and, 1-200 for puffed snacks, 4 -302 wet-grinding and, 2-412-427
papers for risottos, 3-304-305 particles
dehydrating formula for, 3367 for salting, pickling, and fermenting, size of
Seafood Paper, 3-188 3-348-349 mouth feel and, 410
Spinach Paper, 3-369 for separated egg gels, 4-85 reducing. See particle size
Papin, Denis, pressurized boiler of, 2 76 for set foams, 4288-289 reduction
paprika infusion, parametric recipe for, for smoked eggs and dairy products, for thickening, 4 -7, 12, 19
2-310 4-100 partridge, as substitute for pigeon, 5-132
XCIV INDEX
PID
p
Pascal seconds, as viscosity measure, 46 Pathogen Modeling Program (PMP), Pekin duck, roasting, 233 phase inversion, 4-206
Paskach, Thomas, 1-62-63 1-147 Peking Duck pheasant, cooking so us vide, parametric
Passard, Alain pathogens. See also bacteria; foodborne skin crisping by loosening from, recipe for, 399
L'Arpege egg of, 5211 illnesses; viruses 3-123 Phelan, Robert, 4246
Onion Gratin recipe, 5-261, 265 endemic, 1-110 traditional cooking of, 3-119, 122 phenolic acids, olive oil and, 1232, 234
Scallop Tartare recipe, 3 -67 microorganisms as, 1106-109 pellicle, formed by smoking, 2-141, phenols, smoked food and, 2-134, 3-211
Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune Patterson, Daniel 3-211 pheophytin pigments, in green
Sabayon recipe, 3-363 on essential oils, 2322 Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop vegetables, 2-267
passion fruit Grapefruit and Black Pepper recipe, Mochi, 5197, 202 Philosophers at Dinner (Athenaeus), 1-12
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, 4 -276 penetrating meat tenderizers, hazards pho broth
3-366 Modernist cuisine and, 1-67 with, 1-176 Oxtail Pho Broth, 2-307
Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid poached scrambled eggs by, 493 pepperoni parametric recipe for, 2-304-305
Gel, 5-181, 182 pave Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3-247 Phocanema decipens, 1-122-123
Passion Fruit Gran ita, 5175, 177 Skate Pave with Bread Crust, 5157, parametric recipe for, 3-244-245 phosphate brine, basic, parametric
Passion Fruit Jelly, 4 -180 159 peptides, in freshly slaughtered meat, recipe for, 3-168
Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Sous Vide Duck Con fit Pave, 5-81, 3-34 phosphates
Chorizo Powder, 4290 82 percolation, for coffee brewing, 4364 for accelerating brining, 3158
Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Sous Vide Monkfish Pave, 5-151, ISS perimysium, 3-6 for brining or curing, 3157
Vinaigrette, 5-181, 183 Pavoni, Desiderio, 4372 peristaltic pumps, extruding gel phospholipids, as surfactant emulsifiers,
pasta, 3-378-388 Pea Vine Salad, 5273, 275 noodles with, 4139 4-216-217
Chinese, Italians and, 1-14 peas. See black-eyed peas; chickpeas; Perlage Champagne preservation photographs
Cocoa Tajarin, 5225, 227 green peas system, 4-347 credit for, 1-101
doughs, best bets for, 3-381 peaches Perlini carbonation system, 4347 of cutaways, 1-88-89. See also
example recipes for, 3-382-387, compressing, parametric recipe for, Persian cucumbers, Nukazuke, 3354 cutaway illustrations
5253 3-390 persimmons equipment for, 1-89
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe cooking so us vide, parametric recipe Myhrvold on use of, 1-84-85
2-451 for, 3288 for, 3-288 Phylloxera, 4 -327
ingredients and process for, 3378 impregnating, parametric recipe for, dehydrating, parametric recipe for, Physiologie duGout (Brillat-Savarin,
Mac and Cheese, 3-387 3390 3-366 1825), 19
milled grains for, 3-376 Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, Hachiya variety, unripe phase of, Pic, Jacques, 1-34
Pad Thai, 3-385 4-273 3-262 pickle chips, parametric recipe for,
parametric recipe for, 3-380-381 preserving, parametric recipe for, persistent diarrhea, 1114 3-328
Pasta Marinara, 3386 3 -348 personal hygiene pickled eggs, parametric recipe for, 4-82
Ramen Noodles, 5247, 250 peanut butter chef's accessories for, 1-202-203 pickles
smoking, parametric recipe for, Peanut "Tofu," 4122 food safety and, 1-196-200 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables,
3362 Salmonella-contaminated, 1-180, 195 Peschardt, William Julius Syplie, 139 555, 58
smoking of, 3 361 peanut oil, chemistry of, 2-126 pesticides, 1-245, 252-253 fermented, parametric recipe for,
Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), peanuts Petrini, Carl, 1-23 3-349
4 -117, 555, 59 allergies to, 1-238 pH. See also acidiliers; acidity offood; Fried Pickles, 5-67, 75
Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 3-303 acids or acidic compounds; pickling Green Papaya Pickle, 597
4-143 pears acidic marinades and, 3192-193 parametric recipe for, 3349
wheat, puffed, parametric recipe for, compressing, parametric recipe for, bacterial replication rates and, 1143, Pickled Bing Cherry, 5267, 268
4-302 3-390 144 Pickled Butternut Squash, 5-60,64
Pasta Marinara, 3-386 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe boiling-water sterilizing of canned Pickled Celery Root, 5-126, 133
Pasteur, Louis, 1-148,2-75, 84-85,250 for, 3288, 290 foods and, 2-81 Pickled Figs, 5-135, 137
pasteurization dehydrating, parametric recipe for, Clostridium botulinum and, 1-139 Pickled Garlic, 5-25, 26
drying with warm air and, 3-366 canning method and, 2-76 Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5-125,
2-432-433 heat-treating, parametric recipe for, in century eggs, 4-83 131
of eggs, 1-191, 4 -74 3359 chemistry of, 3194 Pickled Lemon, 5-273, 275
FDA Food Code on, 1-185, 187, impregnating, parametric recipe for, color and texture of cooking plant Pickled Quail Eggs, 4-83
188-189 3-390 foods and, 3274-275 Pickled Ramps, 5113, 118
for heat-sanitizing food, 1-148- 149 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, of espresso, hard water and, 4-384 Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 5-205, 207
holding at specific temperature for, 5-281,283 in fermented sausage, 3-246 salt, parametric recipe for, 3349
2-243 preserving, parametric recipe for, gel selection and, 473 sour vinegar, parametric recipe for,
of ice cream bases, 1206 3 -348 juice extraction and, 2239 3-349
refrigerated shelf-life for vacuum- pecans, smoking, parametric recipe for, lowering, for food preservation, Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3353
packed foods after, 2257 3-362 3-344 sweet vinegar, parametric rec~pe for,
of sausage, 3233 pecorino cheese, Pecorino with Truffle Maillard reaction and, 3-91 3-349
simplified cooking standards for, Honey on Cedar, 4-101 marinades and, 3-190 pickling
1190, 191, 192, 194 Pecorino Romano cheese, Poached measuring of, 2-316 boiling-water canning for, 2-82-83
for storage, terminology for, Apple with Pecorino Foam, 4276 in muscle after slaughter, 332, of eggs, best bets for, 4 -82
2-249-250 pectin 34-35 example recipes for, 3353, 525, 135
pasteurized eggs, parametric recipe for drying plant foods with, 3-365 pressure-canning and, 285 formulas for, 3 349
cooking, 4-78 as gelling agent, 4-68 sodium citrate as sequestrant and, parametric recipe for, 3-348-349
pastis effect, science of, 4211 with heat, for thickening, 47 4125 of plant foods, 3-344, 346, 348
pastrami, Beef Cheek Pastrami, 3213 hydrogen bonds in water and, 1-296 thickeners and, 415, 16 PID (proportional-integral-derivative)
pastry chefs, innovations of, 173 natural sources for, 1-253, 257 truite au bleu and, 3-40 controllers
pate, Guinness "Pate de Fruit," 4145 as vegetable glue, 3392 phase changes characteristics of, 1270
Pate a Choux, 5-151, 152 pectin methylesterase (PME), 3-280 in emulsions, 4199, 203, 206 God shots and, 4 375
Patent and Trademark Office, 171 pectinase thermal energy from, 1-290 invention of, 4 -398
patent law, food ingredients and juicing fruits with, 2335 of water, energy of, 1-300-303 for kitchen appliances, 1-271
techniques and, 1-70, 71-72 juicing plant foods with, 2336 phase diagrams, of water, how to read, programmable, 2-238
Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3324 1-302-303 for smoking, 3-208
INDEX XCV
p PID
PID (proportional-integral- derivative) Pistachio Consomme, 2-376 plants, 3-266. See also specific plants plated-dish recipes for shellfish
controllers (continued) pistachio cream for gelato, 4 -214 composition of, physics of, 3-266 (continued)
for sous vide cooking, 2-233, 240 Pistachio Gelato, 4236 defenses of, defeating, 3-267, 273 Shrimp Cocktail, 5180-183
types and characteristics of, pistachio oil, Pistachio Gelato, 4 -236 as food . See plant foods; specific plant Thai Crab Miang, 5189- 191
2230- 231 Pistachio Puree, 2427 foods plated-dish recipes for starches,
Piege, J ean-Fran10ois pistachios gelling agents from, 4-126 5223-256
Spaghetti Carbonara recipe, 3-384 Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, hydrocolloids from, as thickeners, Astronaut Ramen, 5-247-251
Steamed Blancmange recipe, 4-296 4 -294 4 -19 Cocoa Tajarin, 5-225-227
pig, suckling Pistachio Consomme, 2376 seeds of. See seeds Paella Valenciana, 5239-245
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Pistachio Gelato, 4 236 self-defense by, toxicity of, 3-266 Russian Pelmeni, 5-233-237
for, 3-96, 109 Pistachio Puree, 2 -427 plasma, as charged gas, 1301 Shanghai Soup Dumplings,
Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesta plasm ids, 1-109, 133 5-253-256
and Orange Sauce, 3-110 Salad, 453 Plasmodium, 1-126 Spaghetti aile Vongole, 5-229-231
pit, barbecue, origins of, 3208 plasmolysis, cell dehydration and, 1-305 plated-dish recipes for tender cuts,
pig-bel, C. per.fringens-contaminat ed
food and, 1-141 pit boss, use of term, 3-208 Plassman, Hilke, 4340 53-39
pigeon pita bread, water as foaming gas for, plastic packaging Autumn Harvest Pork Roast, 517-23
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe 4-254 for edge sealers, 2-222 Beef Rib Steak, 55-9
for, 399, 108 pitch, extreme viscosity of, 4 9 for impulse sealers, 2225 Blanquette de Veau, 531-33
Farce Royale, 5-126, 132 pitchers, spouted, for pouring lattes, molding sausage with, 3241 Choucroute Royale, 535 -39
Pigeon en Salmis plated-dish recipe, 4 391-392 selection of, 2210-211 Mushroom Swiss Burger, 511-15
plancha. See also griddles; panfrying sous vide cooking and, 2-207 Rack of Lamb with Garlic, 525-29
5-125-133
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 3-100 for Modernist kitchen, 2-287 plastic wrap plated-dish recipes for tough cuts,
Roast Pigeon Crown, 5-126, 132 searing using, 2-40-41 molding sausage with, 3241 541-105
of frozen meat, 3122 vacuum packing and, 2-212 American BBQ, 5-66-79
Toasted Oat Jus, 5126, 133
pigeon offal, Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, for sous vide cooking, 2 271 plate freezers, uses for, 1307 Braised Short Ribs, 542-47
plant foods, 3258- 401 Plateau,Joseph, 4-246 Cassoulet Toulousain (Autumn),
5-125, 130
cooking plated dishes 5-81-84
pigeon stock, parametric recipe for,
benefits of, 3-267 Blumenthal on, 151 Cassoulet Toulousain (Spring),
2-296-298
color changes in, chemistry of, elements of recipes for, 1-99 5-85-87
pig's blood, Hot Blood Pudding
Custard, 4221 3-274-275 invention of, 125 Historic Lamb Curries, 5-89-99
frying and, 3314-343 Nouvelle cuisine and, 126 Hungarian Beef Goulash, 555-59
pilaf, Candied Orange and Carrot
methods for, 3-273 recipes in Modernist Cuisine for, Osso Bucco Milanese, 5-60-65
Pulao, 5-94
microwaving and, 3310-313 1-97-100 Pot-au-Feu, 549-53
pin bones, in fish, 322
pin-and-disc mills, 2404 pressure-cooking and, 3-298-309 styles of, 1-98 Sunday Pork Belly, 5-101- 105
sous vide, 3-286-297 styles of recipes for, 1-100 platinum RTD (resistance temperature
pine bud infusion, parametric recipe for,
culinary deception with, 3388- 401 plated-dish recipes for eggs, 5-209-221 diode), 1-207
2-310
pine nuts dehydrating, 3365 -373 The Breakfast Egg, 5-211-213 Pliny the Elder, 2-396
Braised Pine Nuts with Winter enzymes in, 3-282-284 Mushroom Omelet, 5215-217 plums
fat content of, 5.XLIII Oeufs en Meurette, 5219-221 compressing, parametric recipe for,
Squash, 5-60, 65
Frozen Cn!me-Frciiche and Pine-Nut FDA Food Code time and plated-dish recipes for fish, 5141-177 3390
temperature for, 1-184 Black Cod "Fredy Girardet," cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
Cream, 2-411
Romesco Sauce, 2-419 freeze-drying, critical temperature 5170-173 for, 3-288
for, 2446 Fish and Chips, 5143 - 145 impregnating, parametric recipe for,
Shaved Foie Gras, 3-177
smoking, parametric recipe for, 3-362 fruits as. See fruits; specific fruits Hamachi Maltaise, 5-147-149 3390
pineapple Le Gargouillou with, 1-20, 3-294-295 Hawaiian Poke, 5-175-177 in Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga,
compressing, parametric recipe for, heat-shocking, 3358-359 Malaysian Steamed Snapper, Scallop Mochi, 5197, 202
internationalization of, history of, 5-167-169 pluots
3390
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe 3-268 Monkfish with Mediterranean about, 5-202
for, 3-288 juices from Flavors, 5151- 155 Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga,
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, browning of, 2-338 Salmon Rus, 5-161-165 Scallop Mochi, 5197, 202
3-366 filtering, 2-354 Skate in Black Butter, 5-157-159 PME (pectin methylesterase), 3-280
impregnating, parametric recipe for, juicing with pectinase enzymes, plated-dish recipes for fruits and PMP (Pathogen Modeling Program),
2 336 vegetables, 5259-287 1147
3390
Pineapple Glass, 3370 milling, 3376-377 Crispy Cauliflower, 5-281-283 poach test
preserving, parametric recipe for, nuts as. See nuts Lentil Salad, 5-267-271 of sausage binding power, 3223
3348 preserving, 3344-373 Onion Tart, 5-261-265 technique of, 3225
smoking, parametric recipe for, 3362 properties of, 3-262-285 Strawberry Gazpacho, 5-277-279 Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam,
pineapple chips, parametric recipe for, raw Sweet Pea Fricassee, 5-272-275 4-276
digesting, biology of, 3-269 Watermelon Bulgogi, 5-285 - 287 "Poached" Egg, 4195
3328
pinecones, green, Adri3. 's use of FDA rules and, 1-182 plated-dish recipes for poultry, Poached Lamb Loin, 5-85, 87
immature pine nuts from, 1-36 seeds as. See seeds 5-107-139 Poached Lobster, 4-219
smoked, 2141 Crispy H ay-Smoked Chicken, Poached Lobster Tail, 5185, 187
pink brine, basic, parametric recipe for,
best bets for, 3-362 5-113-119 Poached Oysters, 5233, 236
3 -168
Pink Grapefruit Con fit, 5-225, 226 smoking, 3-361-363 DuckApicius, 5121-123 poaching
softening by holding at specific Foie Gras ida Vapeur, 5-109-111 cryopoaching as
pink sa lt rub, parametric recipe for,
temperature, 2247- 248 Guinea Hen Tagine, 5135- 139 Cryopoached Dill Meringue, 5-161,
3-169
starches in, 3-280-283 Pigeon en Salmis, 5-125 - 133 165
pink salts, nitrates or nitrites in, 3-165
textures of, modifying, 3374-401 plated-dish recipes for shellfish, Cryopoached Green Tea Sour,
Pi not Noir, Chardonnay and, 4 -327
types of, 3-264 5179-207 4-291
piquillo peppers, 5-279
vacuum compression and, 2213 Lobster Americaine, 5-184-187 for Dippin' Dots, 1-61
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
vegetables as. See vegetables; specific Oyster Stew, 5205 - 207 technique for, 2-460
3372
vegetables Pulpo a Ia Greca, 5193-195 of eggs, stirring pot before, physics
Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry
water content of, 3273 Shellfish Omakase, 5197-203 of, 2-67
Salad, 5-277, 278
XCVI INDEX
POUR-OVER COFFEE BREWER
p
poaching (continued) porcini mushrooms pork fatback potatoes (continued)
Girardet method for broiling and, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3-248 Smoked Potato Con fit, S-193, 195
2-24-25, 96, 97 for, 3-289 Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3-247 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune
pod systems, for espresso, technology Mushroom Puree, 5 -215, 216 Italian Sausage, 3-242 Sabayon, 3-363
of,4-400 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Saucisson Sec, 3-247 smoking, parametric recipe for,
Poggioli, Renato, 1-18 Marmalade and Porcini, 3-9 7 pork lard, chemistry of, 2-126 3-362
Point, Fernand pork. See also bacon; ham; hogs; pork rinds, puffed, making of, 3-129 starch granules of, 4-20
on glazing vegetables, 2-58 prosciutto; suckling pig pork stock, parametric recipe for, Starch-Infused Fries, 3-324
Nouvelle cuisine and, 1-24 aging, 3-41 2-296-297 Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries,
Poulet au Feu d'Enfer recipe, 3-100 Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5-35,39 Pork Trotter Beignet, 5-35, 38 3325
polar solvents, 1-330 brining, parametric recipe for, 3172 portafilters, espresso thickening with, 4-28
polarity, of water molecules, 2-182, Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3-248 crotch less toxins in, 3262
4-199 coldsmoking, parametric recipe for, advantages of, 4-385, 388 Ultrasonic Fries, 3-325, S-11
Polcyn, Brian, Blackstrap Molasses 3-210 invention of, 4-398 volumetric equivalents for amounts
Country Ham recipe, 3-183 cooked, pink color in, 3-94 dosing, 4 -378,380 of,S-XLV
polenta cooking grooming. See grooming espresso Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
Almond Polenta, 4-36 cooking times for, 1-121, 179, 180 porta filters Salad, 4-53
Parmesan "Polenta," 4-181 so us vide, parametric recipe for, tamping, 4-380, 383-384 pot-au-feu
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with 3-96, 109 how to, 4382 parametric recipe for, 2-304-305
Strawberry Marinara, 4-50 Crab and Pork Stock Spheres, S-253, portafilters, nanoscale, 2-357 Pot au Feu Consomme, 549, 52
political interest groups, food safety 256 portions. See also food size Pot-au-Feu plated-dish recipe,
rules and, 1-170 cultural recommendations on single, Pacojets for, 2-407, 410 5-49-53
"The (Political) Science of Salt" cooking, 1-165,170-171 vacuum-sealed individual, 2-199,201 pot-roasting, 2-93-96
(Taubes), 1-236 curing, parametric recipe for, 3 -172 Portuguese Cork Association, 4 348 braising or stewingvs., 293
Pollan, Michael Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 3-247 posset, parametric recipe for, 4-104 chemistry of aging and, 2-98
on eating our greatgrandmothers' fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle Le Postay, 1-70 cutaway illustration of, 2-94-95
food, 1-15 in, 3-12,13 Postmodern cuisine, Modernist cuisine of meat, how to, 2 99
on Slow Food, 1-23 FDA safe cooking standards for, vs., 1-57 traditional method for, 2-93, 96
Polo, Marco, pasta and, 1-14 1-170 potassium pots, on stove
Polyclar fining, 2-352, 360 food safety misconceptions about, hypertension and, 1-236 heat loss and, 1-276
polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, 1-179- 180 as ion-based coagulant, 4 -126 immersion circulators for, 2234
smoked food and, 2-143 free-range, safety debate on, 1-179 potassium nitrate for sous vide cooking, 2-233, 240
polyethylene, for rescuing corked wine, Freeze-Dried Pork, S-247, 251 for dry-curing, 3-165 Poulet au Feu d'Enfer, 3-100
4-349 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, for food preservation, 1-144-145 poultry. See also specific types of poultry
polyglycerol esters, as surfactant 2-451 in sel rose (curing salt), 3-162 cooking
emulsifiers, 4-216-217 Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, potato chips ideal temperature for, 389
polymer molecules, for gelling or S-85, 86 homemade, 3-329-330 simplified standards for, 1-190,
thickening, 4-71 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 3328 193
Polyp Prevention Trial, 1-215, 217, 233 3-210 Pringles, history of, 3330 diet and flesh color of, 3-93
polyphenol oxidase (PPO) House-Cured Bacon, 3-182, S-17, 18 potato starch, thickening with, FDA Food Code on Salmonella in,
blanching and, 2-267 Italian Sausage, 3 -242 parametric recipe for, 4 -28 1-175
fruit blemishes and, 3-282-283 Pork Loin Roast, 5-17, 23 potatoes FDA Food Code time and
plant juice browning and, 2338 Pork Ribs, S-67, 78 Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 3-313 temperature for, 1-187-188
polyphosphates. See sodium Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, S-35, Baked Potato Broth, 2-309 PSIS on Salmonella reduction in,
tripolyphosphate 36 Baked Potato Foam, 4 -281, S-193 1-168
polysaccharides Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3-114 boiled, sugar and, 3 -276 plated-dish recipes for, 5-107-139
hydrocolloids as, 4-124 primal cuts of, 3-44 Clay Potatoes, 3-398 red
starches as, 4-20 Pulled Pork Shoulder, S-67, 78 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, best bets for,
polysorbates, as surfactant emulsifiers, reattaching skin as breading after for, 3290, 292 3-99
4-216-217 cooking, 3-122-123 Duck Leg Con fit with Pommes tender, parametric recipe for
polyunsaturated fat, 1-222 red meat in, 3-14, 15 Sarladaises, 3-178 cooking sous vide, 399
polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastics, food roast, how to puff skin on, flour milled from, 3-376 safe cooking principles for, 1-191
safety and, 2-207, 3241 3-126-127 flouryvs . waxy, gelatinization of, tanning properties of smoke and,
polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP), as safe cooking temperature for, 3-280 2-141
fining agent, 2-360 1-121-122 frying, 3-322-325 tender red, parametric recipe for
pomegranate Saucisson Sec, 3-247 mashed cooking sous vide, 399
juicing seeds of, 5-122 as sausage binder, 3-222 ofRobuchon, 1-37, 58 tender white, parametric recipe for
Pomegranate and GarumJus, 5-121, for sausage-making, cuts for, 3-222 ofSteingarten, 1-65 cooking so us vide, 3-99
122 shoulder, dissecting, 3-48-49 natural toxins of, 1-249 tenderizing enzymes in, 378
pomelo, Frozen Pomelo Cells, 5-189, skin contraction during cooking of, Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 3-324 tough, cooking so us vide
191 3-118 Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3-323 best bets for, 3-108
Pommes Pont-Neuf, 3-323 Smoked Pork Cheek, 5-35, 38 Pommes Souffiees, 4-306, 5-143, 145 parametric recipe for, 3108
pommes soufflees Sous Vide Pork Belly, S-101, 102 Potato Beignets with Caviar, 4-174 white
Pommes Souffiees, 4-306, 5-143, tapeworms and, 1-124 Potato Puree, 5-S, 8 cooking so us vide, best bets for,
145 tenderizing enzymes in, 3-78 Potato Salad, S-67, 73 399
water as foaming gas for, 4-254 Toulousain Garlic Sausage, S-81, 82 puffed, parametric recipe for, 4 -302 tender, parametric recipe for
ponzu, Sous Vide Ponzu, 2-313 Trichinella and, 1-117-118, 120 purees of cooking sous vide, 3-99
popcorn Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork best bets for, 3-297 poultry liver, cooking so us vide,
Crispy Corn Pudding, 5-101, 104 Stock Infusion, S-253, 254 parametric recipe for, 2 -425, parametric recipe for, 3146
microwave, 2 -183 pork and Banyuls roasting jus, 3-296-297 pounding meat, 3-50
Popcorn Pudding, 4-181 parametric recipe for, 2-344-345 Potato Puree, 3296, 55, 8 pour-over coffee brewer, 4369
Popeil, Ron, 2-34 pork belly, so us vide tenderizing of, Restructured Potato Chips, 3-330
3-83 Root Vegetable Risotto, 3-309
INDEX XCVII
p POWDERS
powders Preserved Lemons, 3-350, 5-135 pressure steamers, heat transfer in, propylene glycol esters, as surfactant
cryogenic freezing of, 2-461 Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 5 281, 1-319 emulsifiers, 4-216-217
cryopowdering and, how to, 2-461 283 pressure-canning, 2 85-91 propylene glycol, thickening with,
espresso, instant, 4-371 preserves, seasonal melanges with, acidity offood and, 2-76 parametric recipe for, 4-46, 47
pacotizing, 2 -406-409 3-295 Chevalier-Appert on, 2-75 prosciutto
spray-dried, 2-438-441 preserving food. See food preservation cutaway illustration of, 2-90-91 Chawanmushi, 4-96
power pressing, example recipes for, 3377 fine tuning, 2-88 Ham Broth, 2-306
converting energy units and, 1-273 pressure. See also pressure canners; how air co nfounds, physics of, 2 87 infusion of, parametric recipe for,
units of, 1-272-273 pressure cookers; pressure filtration; for low-acidity food s, 2 -85 2 -310
PPO (polyphenol oxidase) pressure-canning; pressure-cooking pressure amount and duration for, Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg,"
blanching and, 2-267 plant foods 2-88 4-194
fruit blemishes and, 3-282-283 atmospheric. See atmospheric reading gauge displays for, 2-86-87 slicing, 3-50
plant juice browning and, 2338 pressure time to sterilization pressure using, prospective randomized, controlled
Prague Powders espresso-making and, 4 -372, 374 2-89 clinical trials. See randomized clinical
nitrates or nitrites in, 3-165 fineness of grind vs., in espresso Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 3-114 trials
No.1 machines, 4-378 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 4 -97 prospective studies
for brining or curing, 3-158 gauges and, atmospheric pressure Pressure-Cooked Polenta with definition of, 1-214
composition of, 3-161 and readings of, 2-86-87 Strawberry Marinara, 4-50 of nutrition, 1-220
No. 2, composition of, 3-161 homogenizers and . See Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 3-303, protein coagulants, 4-103
Pralus, Georges, 1-41, 42 homogenizers, high-pressure; 5-181 protein extracts, as sausage binders,
Prats, Bruno, 4 -328 homogenizers, ultrahigh-pressure Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 5 81, 3-223
prawn crackers, water as foaming gas pressure fryers and, for Kentucky 83 proteins. See also dairy products; fatty
for, 4 -254 Fried Chicken, 2-120-121 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto, acids; meats; specific foods
prawns. See also langoustines pressure steamers and, heat transfer 3 -308 conformation of, 1156
biology of, 3-28, 31 in, 1-319 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, curds of
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe pressure-marinating and, 3198 2-301 best bets for, 4-104
for, 3-103 how to, 3-207 pressure-cooking plant foods, Cocoa Nib Curd, 4 -105
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 3-100 pressure-shift freezing and, physic s 3-298-309 Fresh Cheese Curds, 4-106-107
Puffed Crab Crackers, 5-189, 190 of, 1-309 best bets for, 3-300 parametric recipe for, 4 -104
in Seafood Paper, 3-188 profiling, for espresso, 4 -375 pressure-marinating, 3-198 dehydrating foods and, 1-296
Shrimp and Grits, 3-377 technology of, 4-400 how to, 3-207 in fish, 320
Shrimp Cocktail, 3-107 solubility of gases in water and, pressure-shift freezing, physics of, as foaming agent, 4-244, 247
Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2347 1-333, 4-256 1-309 folding of, 1-156
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root specific heat and, 1-266-267 pretenderized meat, hazards with, 1-176 frozen, aromatic compounds and,
Tempura with Smoked White Soy ultrahigh, to kill bacteria, 1149 Prial, Frank, 4 -331 2 -261
Sauce, 5-197,201 vacuum, 2-391,447 Priestley, Joseph, 2-464 in gelatin, 4-67
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, vacuum packing and, 2-213, 215 primal cuts, of meat, 344 gelling agents from, 4-69
4-233 water, in espresso-making, 4 -384 primary emulsion, 4-206 with heat, for thickening, 4 7
Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5-181, 183 pressure canners. See also pressure Primitivo grape, Zinfandel and, 4 -326 marinating and, 3 -190
precipitates, supersaturated solutions cookers Pringles, history of, 3-330 in meat,3 6
and, 1-332 cutaway illustration of, 2-90-91 "printed food," 1-67, 69,71 nonmeat, fat incorporation into
precooking, so us vide, for deep-frying, for extracting and infusing flavors, prions sausage with, 3-225
2-123 2-251 diseases caused by, 1-156, 157-159, proteolytic enzymes, 3-195
precursor molecules, in flavor reactions, how to use, 2-89 160 protists, 1-126-129
enzymes and, 2-335, 338 pressure cookers vs., 2 -85-86 brain and, 1-156- 157 foodborne illnesses in U.S. and,
predator satiation (saturation), 3-284 for so us vide cooking, 2 -233 conformations of, 1-158 1-111
pregelatinized starch cracker, puffed, sterilization using, 2250 politics and, 1-160-161 as foodborne pathogens, 1-108
parametric recipe for, 4302 venting, 2-86-87, 291-292 in United States, 1-111 Prudhomme, Paul, New American
pregelatinized starch paste pressure cookers as foodborne pathogens, 1-109 cuisine and, 1-28, 29
Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4 -29 browning starch for roux with, 422 names for1 1112 prune coals
for thick foams, parametric recipe collagen conversion into gelatin in, processed foods carbon dioxide in sugar glass for,
for, 4-278-279 3-79 cheese as, history of, 4-222 4-254
pregnancy, food borne illnesses and, excess heat in, 2-291 preservatives in 1 1-144 edible, how to make, 4 -314-315
1-127, 134 for Modernist kitchen, 2-286 professional chefs. See chefs, Prune Coals recipe, 517
preheating pressure canners vs., 2-85-86, 89 professional; individual chefs' names Prusiner, Stanley, 1-156
for baking, 2-102-103 for sous vide cooking, 2-233 programmability PSE (pale soft exudate), adrenaline and,
for deep-frying, 2-116 sterilization using, 2 -250 in combi ovens, 2-168-169,172-173 334
preinfusion, in pulling an espresso shot, stock preparation with, 2-283, of heating / chilling baths, 2-255 Pseudoterranova decipiens, 1122-123
4-384 291-294 ofP1D controllers, 2-230, 238 psychrometric charts, how to read,
prepared foods, wide availability of, for tomato sauces, 3 -276 progressive smoking, 2-148 1-323
1-22-23 for tough cut cooking, 395 propane, for gas grills, 2 -11 PTW (Australian architectural firm),
presentation, cognitive science of, 4335 venting proportional-integral-derivative 4 -246
preservatives. See also additives; food before sealing, 2-291-292 controllers. See PID (proportional public health, food safety rules and,
preservation spring-loaded valves for, 2-86-87 integral-derivative) controllers 1-169- 170
chemical, bacterial growth and, pressure filtration propylene glycol alginate publication bias, nutritional studies
1-144-145 characteristics of, 2-352, 353-355, for edible films, parametric recipe and, 1-219
fresh juice taste and color and, 2-238, 358 for, 4-60 Puck, Wolfgang
239 clarifying juice with, 2355 as foam stabilizer, 4-257 food and restaurant empire of, 131
popular perception of, 1-250 equipment for, 2-286 interactions with other thickeners, New American cuisine and, 128, 29
Preserved Cinnamon Cap Mushroom, pressure fryers, for Kentucky Fried 4-44-45 New International cuisine and, 130
5-219,220 Chicken, 2 -120-121 product guide for, 4-IV-V
preserved eggs, parametric recipe for, pressure gauges, atmospheric pressure properties and uses of, 4 -42-43
4 -82 and readings of, 2-86-87
XCVIII INDE X
RARE BEEF SAUSAGE R
pudding. See also blood sausage
(pudding)
Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, S-125,
127
Crispy Corn Pudding, S-101, 104
purees (continued)
Mushroom Puree, S-215, 216
Pistachio Puree, 2427
potato, best bets for, 3-297
Potato Puree, 3296, 5-S, 8
Q
quail
R
rabbit
Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4 -31 Salted Caramel Apple Puree, S-17, 20 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
Popcorn Pudding, 4 -181 seasonal melanges with, 3-295 for, 399, 108 for, 3-96, 109
Puffed Chicken Feet, 3-133 Smoked Pepper Puree, 5-SS, 57 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion leg muscles of, 3-7
Puffed Chickpea Salad, S-135, 138 Tamarind Puree, S-281, 282 and Water Chestnuts, 3-101 Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, S-239, 242
Puffed Chickpeas, 4-307 vegetable quail eggs wild, risks of eating, 1-138
Puffed Cockscomb, 3-133 best bets for, 2-425 Chorizo French Toast, 4-98-99 Rack of Lamb, S-25, 29
Puffed Crab Crackers, S-189, 190 mechanics of, 3-279 Pickled Quail Eggs, 4-83 Rack of Lamb with Garlic plated-dish
puffed skin parametric recipe for, 2424-425, Quatre Epices, 2-403, 535, 125 recipe, S-25-29
pork rinds and, making of, 3-129 435 quiche filling, parametric recipe for, radiation (radiant heat)
on pork roast, how to make, so us vide cooking for, best bets for, 4-92 adding cream to coffee and, 1-289
3-126-127 3-290 quinces charcoal grills and, 2-10-11
vicinal water and, 3-122, 123 purification, of toxins from the body, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe convection baking using, 2 110-111
puffed snacks, 4 -302-309 1-248 for, 3-291 cooking food unevenly with, 3-314
best bets for, 4-302 PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastics, food Hot Quince Gel, 4-167, S-121 dark-surfaced pans and, 2 -38
Cheese Puffs, 4-305 safety and, 2-207, 3-241 rawvs. cooked, 3-275 fourth-power relationship to
example recipes for, 4 -303-309, PVPP (polyvinylpolypyrrolidone), as quinoa temperature of, 1-287
S-197, 202 fining agent, 2-360 Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito heat transfer with, 1-277, 284-286
parametric recipe for, 4 302 pyrolysis Stock Veil, 4 -168 hot spots in baking and, 2-112
Puffed Chickpeas, 4-307 coffee roasting and, 4-362 Ragout of Grains, 5125, 129 microwave ovens and, 2-182
pulao, Candied Orange and Carrot food safety and bitter taste from, quorum sensing, by bacteria, 1134 physics of shiny griddles and, 1-284
Pulao, S-94 3-91 roasting and, 2-28, 32-33
Pulled Mushroom, 3-396 overcooking and, 3-94 sweet spot of grills and, 2-14-17
Pulled Pork Shoulder, S-67, 78 of wood, 2-135, 137 radiation, ultraviolet. See ultraviolet
pulp, plant juice browning and, 2 338 radiation
pulped natural process, for coffee, 4-358 radishes
Pulpo a Ia Greca plated-dish recipe, Nukazuke, 3-354
S-193-195 preserving, parametric recipe for,
pulses, flours milled from, 3-376 3-348
pulverizing. See also grinding; milling ragout of Grains, S-125, 129
mathematics of power to pulverize raisins, Carbonated Golden Raisins,
and, 2 -401 S-157, 159
Pumpjack Winery, 4-345 Ramen Noodles, S-247, 250
pumps Ramen Stock Powder, 2-455, S-247
aquarium Ramen Vegetables, 2-455, S-247
foam forming with, 4258, 260 ramps
for sous vide cooking, 2-240-241 Pickled Ramps, S-113, 118
vacuum. See vacuum pumps Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3-112
Pure-Cote B790 Ramsay, Gordon
for edible films, parametric recipe Modernist cuisine and, 163
for, 4-60 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
thickening with, 4-30 of, 1-28
parametric recipe for, 430 rancidity
pureeing of freeze-dried meat, 2-447
colloid mills for, 2-398-399 offrozen food, 1-306
of colloidal suspensions from, 4 -12 of reused deep-frying oil, 2-125
meat, steps in, 3-231 of saturated vs. unsaturated oils,
Pacojet for, 2-406-411 2-126
strategies for, 2-400 randomized clinical trials, 1218
purees. See also pureeing of cholesterol-lowering drug and
Apricot and Jasmine Puree, S 171, heart disease, 1-227
173 of dietary fat and cancer, 1-233
Avocado Puree, S-205, 207 of dietary fat and heart disease,
Black Olive Puree, 4-230 1-229, 230-231
Broccoli and Hazelnut Oil Puree, of dietary fiber and colorectal cancer,
2 -426 1-217
Confit Egg-Yolk Puree, S-147, 148 of nutrition, 1-220
cooking fruits or vegetables so us of omega-3 fats and heart disease,
vide for, 3-290 1-232
cryofreezing and, 2-458 of salt and hypertension, 1-234
Date Puree, S-121, 122 of vitamin supplements, 1235
frozen, freeze-drying of, 2-446 of weight loss plans, 1-240, 241
fruit randomized intervention trials, 1214
best bets for, 2-425 Rankine temperature scale, 1266
cooking sous vide, 3-290 Rao, Hayagreeva, 1-26
parametric recipe for, 2425 rapeseed oil, chemistry of, 2126
ground fruits or vegetables as, 3-376 rare beef jus, parametric recipe for,
Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and 2-344-345
Truffle Puree, 4-114 Rare Beef Sausage, 3-249
INDE X XCIX
R RARE FLATIRON STEAK
Rare Flatiron Steak, 5-49, 50 red cabbage (continued) reheating Reyns, 4 -6

rare salmon jus, parametric recipe for, Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and of mass-market ready-to-eat foods, rhubarb
2-344-345 Cabbage Juice, 2-389 2-265 as acidifier, 2-314
Ras el Hanout, 2-405 red currants, as acidifier, 2-314 modern thickeners and, 45 compressing, parametric recipe for,
raspberries Red Dye# 2, 1-252 in sous vide cooking, 2-242, 262, 264 3390
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, red flesh, in tuna, 3-21 thickener selection and, 4-15 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
3-366 red hot, 1-287 rehydration for, 3-290
freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, red kidney beans, natural toxins of, offreeze-dried foods, 2-447 impregnating, parametric recipe for,
3-372 1-249 physics of dehydration and, 1-321 3-390
in Strawberry Gazpacho, 5-278 red meat. See also specific meats relative humidity natural toxins of, 1-249
ratings, for wines, 4338-339 animals producing, 3-14-15 boiling point of water and, 2-163 preserving, parametric recipe for,
Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind th e Craft breast cancer and, 1221 drying foods and, 2-428 3-348
of Everyday Cooking (Ruhlman), 1-95 combi ovens vs. water bath cooking equilibrium, 2-430 Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5-277, 279
Rational combi ovens of, 2 -167- 168 measuring, 1-322 rhubarb water, parametric recipe for,
comparing cooking modes for, 2-169 in ducks vs. chickens, 3-16-17 on psychrometric charts, how to 2-374-375
cooking strategies for, 2-170 poultry, sous vide cooking, best bets read, 1-323 Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard
effective cooking temperatures in, for, 3-99 water vapor and, 1-320-321, 325, Marmalade and Porcini, 3-97
2-165 tenderizing enzymes in, 3-78 2-154 ribose, 3-89
heat and humidity control in, in tuna, biology of, 3-21 relative risk, nutritional studies and, rice
2-163-165, 167 red pearl onions, Compressed Dill 1-219 Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 4-304
invention of, 2-154 Pickled Vegetables, 5-55, 58, 67 Remoulade Sauce, 5-67,75 Candied Orange and Carrot Pulao,
program cooking with, 2-169 red wine Renaud, Serge, 1-228 5-94
testing heat and humidity control in, Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5-219, rendering Cantonese Fried Rice, 2 -176-177
2-156-157 221 bromelain for, 3-195 Crispy Do sa, 3-355
Rautureau, Thierry, Spot Prawns with Red Wine Cabbage, 5-101, 105 cryorendering and Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice
Foie Gras Nage recipe, 4-233 Red Wine Cabbage, 5-101, 105 of subcutaneous fat, 3-122 and Sea Lettuce, 3-149
raw foods. See also specific foods Red-Eye Gravy, 5-101, 102 before vacuum packing, 2 -268 Paella Rice, 5-239, 241
diet of, 1-247-249 Red-Onion Cream, 3-68 of fat from meat tissue, 3-83 Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto,
FDA Food Code on, 1-182, 184 reductions methods for, 3-122 3-308
flavors of, 3-87 for concentrating flavor, 2-379-380 strategies for, 3-145 puffed, parametric recipe for, 4302
food safety disclaimer rules for, 1-178 emulsified butterfat in cream and, rennet, as gel coagulant, 4-70 Ragout of Grains, 5-125, 129
foodborne illness risks with, 1-191 4 -205 reserve bottling of wine, taste of Risotto Milanese, 3-306-307
freezing extracting flavors using stocks vs., ordinary wine bottling vs ., 4340 smoking, parametric recipe for, 3362
FDA on time and temperature for, 2-288 reservoir chillers (water baths), 2-238 Steamed Sticky Rice, 5-113, 119
1-186 flavor release by, 411 restaurants. See also Modernist cuisine; thickening with, parametric recipe
water types and, 1-305 -306 modern, for thickening, 4-19 specific restaurants for, 4-28
hygiene and, 1-196 scaling using baker's percentages food safety disclaimer rules for, 1-178 Toasted Rice Milk, 4 -59
plants as, biology of digesting, 3-269 and, 1-96 RestaurantApriori, 170 rice bran, Nukazuke, 3 -354
tartares and meat as, 3-62-69 for thickening, 45, 7 Restaurant Hanner, 1-70 rice cookers, for sous vide cooking, 2240
example recipes for, 3-65-68 thickening by, various methods of, Restaurante Calima, 1-57 rice crisp
water in, weight of, 379, 83 4-11 resting parametric recipe for, 4 -302
raw milk cheese thickening sauces, jus, or glazes after brining, 3-156 Rice Crisp, 5-31, 32
FDA safe cooking standards for, with, 2-346 chilling and, 2-254 rice flour, 3-376
1-170 vacuum. See vacuum reduction myth of, baking and, 2 -105 rice flour pasta and, parametric
French vs. U.S. standards on, 1-171, Redzepi, Rene pan frying and, 2-38 recipe for, 3381
173 Edible Earth recipe, 4-37 reheated food, 2-264 rice starch, 4-20, 28
Raw Okra, 5-90, 97 at elBulli, 139 restrooms, personal hygiene and, 1196 rice stick noodles, Pad Thai, 3-385
raw packing, boiling-water canning and, on Le Gargouillou, 3-294 Restructured Em mental Slices, 5-11, 14 rice vinegar, Soy Vinegar Infusion,
2-77 Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and restructured meat 5-253,256
Rayleigh scattering, 2-124,4-203 Truffie Puree recipe, 4-114 meat glue and, 3-250-256 Rich Brown Stock, 2-297
razor clams Modernist cuisine and, 1-70 sausage as . See sausages Richot, Charles, 1-238
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe reflectivity Restructured Potato Chips, 3-330 ricotta cheese
for, 3-103 broilers and, 2-19, 22 resveratrol, heart disease and, 1-228 Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta
noroviruses and, 1155 grills and, 2-15 retort bags, plastic/ flexible Dumpling, 5-273, 274
Razor Clam "Takoyaki," 5-197, 199 radiant heat and, 1-284-285 for canning, 2-77 Goat Milk Ricotta, 4 -108
Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 3-112 refraction, index of, 4-203 heat transfer in, 1-319 parametric recipe for, 4104
ready-to-eat food. See also so us vide refrigeration . See also chilling heating requirements and duration Tomato Whey Broth, 4 -49
marketing of, 2-265 of cold-smoked food, 2-143 for, 2-79 Rienzner, Cristiano, 1-70
recall bias, nutritional studies and, 1-218 food preservation and, 2-252 reverse osmosis (RO) rigid containers, vacuum packing using,
recipes proper, importance of, 2-257 concentrating flavor with, 2-379,396 2-226-227
format for, 1-93, 96 sel rose as curing salt and, 3-162 food industry uses for, 1-335 rigor mortis, in muscle after slaughter,
in Moderni st Cuisine, 1-92-101 so us vide cooking and storage using, by kidneys, 3-141 3-32,34
credit for, 1-100- 101 2-206-207, 208 for purifying water, 1-335 rillettes
types of, 1-97-100. See also example of unfinished bottles of wine, 4 -346 water for espresso-making and, 4-384 Beef Shank Rillette, 5-49, 52
recipe entries; parametric recipe refrigerators wine and, 4-330 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes,
entries for cook-chill sous vide, 2-255 reverse spherification, 4-184, 187, 5-254 5-233,235
scaling, baker's percentage for, temperature contro l in, 1-205-207 revolution rinsing, after brining, 3-156, 158
1-95-97 thawing using, 2-263 cuisine and, 118-20 ripening
red cabbage regional American cooking, 128 cultural change and, 1-16-18 on command, how to, 3-285
Red Coleslaw, 5-67, 72 regulations, U.S., on food safety, 1-165. at low end of cooking and eating, of cured meat or seafood, 3-167, 173
Red Wine Cabbage, 5-101, 105 See also U.S. Food and Drug 1-20- 22 of fruit, 3-283-284
in Sauerkraut, 3351, 5-35 Administration Nouvelle cuisine, 1-24, 26-31 sous vide technique of, 2 -250
La Reyniere (aka Robert Courtine), 1-26 synchronized, chemistry of, 3-284
c INDEX
SOUS V IDE SALMON s
Ripert, Eric
Escolar with Red Wine Butter recipe,
3-104
Fluke Ceviche recipe, 3-203
New International cuisine and, 130
pot-au-feu of, 549
Roca,Joan
biography of, 1-58
as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1-258
Eggplant Foam recipe, 4-280
Modernist cuisine and, 157
Oysters with Cava Foam recipe,
Rothschild, Philippe de, 4-350
rotisseries
roasting without turning vs. using,
rotors
2-32-33
so us vide vs., 2228
s
sabayon
Blood Orange Sabayon, S-147, 148
risotto 4-277 in colloid mills, 2-413-414 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune
best bets for, 3-305 rotary evaporation and, 2-388 in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2413 Sabayon, 3363
example recipes for, 3-306-309 Smoked Octopus recipe, 3-215 rotor-stator homogenizers Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
parametric recipe for, 3304-305 Sous Vide Cuisine by, 1-83 breaking down food with, 2-400 Sabayon, 4 -274
Risotto Milanese, 3-306-307 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot dispersing thickeners with, 424 sablefish, cold-smoking, parametric
starch release during cooking of, and Orange Sauce recipe, 3-110 egg emulsions and, 4-226 recipe for, 3-210
3-282 Roche, Ben, 1-69 emulsifying with, 4-206, 208, 209 safety. See also food safety
ristrettos rock salt for brine, table salt vs., 2-260 foam forming with, 4252 cryogen handling, 2-464, 466-467
blonding phase and, 4-388 Rocket Evaporator, 2391-395 friction effects in, 1274 liquid nitrogen and, 2459, 464, 466
brewing, skill of choosing example recipes for, 2394 hydration of ion-coagulated gels meat grinding or chopping tools and,
temperature for, 4385 rocket widget, in Guinness beer cans, with,4-124 3-233
evolution of, 4 -379 4250 hydrocolloid dispersion with, 4-38 with microwave oven, 2190
Rittinger's law, 2-401 rockfish, cooking sous vide, parametric for Modernist kitchen, 2-284 Modernist cooking and, 1-101
Ritz, Cesar, 1-20 recipe for, 3-102 for shearing gels into fluids, 4 -176 with pressure cooker, 2-291-292,
The River Cafe, New American cuisine Roellinger, Olivier wet-grinding with, 2413, 420-421 3-298
and, 1-28, 29 Exotic Spice Mixture recipe, 2405 roundworms, 1-120-123 steam burns and, 1-319, 2154
RNA, in viruses, 1152 Indies Spice Blend recipe, 2-403 anisakid, 1-122-123 saf!lower oil, chemistry of, 2-126
RO. See reverse osmosis 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Ascarislumbricoides as, 1-123 saffron extract, parametric recipe for,
roast. See also roasting; specific foods Sherry and Cocoa recipe, 3-107 Trichinella as. See Trichinella spiralis; 2-326
derivation of term, 2101 roller mills, for dry-gri nding, 2-404 trichinellosis Saffron Honey Foam, 5-94
FDA Food Code on cooking, 1-174 rolling boil, blanching using steam vs., roux saffron infusion, parametric recipe for,
sous vide vs . combi oven cooking of, 2-267 flavor of reduced jus vs., 4-11 2 -310
2-167-168 romaine lettuce hydrocolloid dispersion in, 4-38 salads. See also coleslaw
Roast Pigeon Crown, S-126, 132 Caesar Salad, 3373 technique of, 4-20, 22 Blossom Salad, S-171, 172
Roasted Candlenuts, S-175, 177 Smoked Lettuce, 511, IS Roux, Albert, 1-28, 41 Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, S-43,
roasted hazelnut oil extract, parametric Roman Empire Roux, Michel, Nouvelle cuisine in the 47
recipe for, 2-326 cookbook of, 110. See also Apicius U.K. and, 1-28 Cucumber Black-Eyed Pea Salad,
Roasted Scallion Marmalade, S-253, gastronomy of, 1-10-12 Rouxl Britannia restaurants, 141 594
255 Romano beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 5-85, royale custard, parametric recipe for, Fresh Bean Salad, S-85, 87
roasted-hazelnut oil, Hazelnut "Cream," 87 4-92 Green Mango and Cashew Salad,
4 -236 R0mer, Ole, measuring speed of light rubs, dry S-167, 169
roasting, 2-28-35 and, 2-191 Kansas Rub, S-66, 68 Marinated Crab Salad, 5189, 191
of beer can chicken, science of, 2109 Romera, Miguel Sanchez Memphis Rub, S-66, 68 Navel Orange Salad, S-135, 138
calculations for, 2-28, 32 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute parametric recipe for, 3-168-172 Pea Vine Salad, 5-273,275
cutaway illustration of, 2-104-105 and, 4-32 Ruhlman, Michael, 1-44, 95 Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry
extended and simplified 6D tapioca starch gel product by, 4-29 Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham Salad, S-277, 278
Salmonella reduction guidelines Romesco Sauce, 2-419 recipe, 3-183 Potato Salad, S-67, 73
for, 1190 Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven, Ruscalleda, Carme Puffed Chickpea Salad, 5135, 138
historical uses of, 116 2-34-35 as Catalan/Spanish chef, 1-258 Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto
of meat root vegetables. See also specific root crisping fish skin by, 3-129 Salad, 453
jus formation and, 2-343 vegetables Russia, early gastronomy of, 18, 10 salamander
whole, FDA Food Code on oven Root Vegetable Jus, S-161, 163 Russian Pelmeni plated-dish recipe, browning in, after sous vide cooking,
temperatures for, 1-186 Root Vegetable Risotto, 3-309 S-233-237 2-272-273
whole, FDA Food Code on time Sous Vide Root Vegetables, S-49, 53 Russian Smoked Salmon, 3-212 as original broiler, 2-18, 20
and temperature for, 1-182-183, roots, gelling agents from, 4 -126 rutabagas salami, parametric recipe for, 3244-245
184 rose petals cooking sous vide, parametric recipe salinity
pot-roasting as. See pot-roasting Blossom Salad, S-171, 172 for, 3-289, 290 ofbrined and cured food, 3-152
program cooking in combi oven for, Crystallized Rose Petals, 3-368 preserving, parametric recipe for, for brining, 3-154, 156, 158
2-169 rose water, distillation of, 2390 3-348 for curing, 3-160
Ronco Showtime Rotisserie Oven rosemary extract, parametric recipe for, Root Vegetable Jus, S-161, 163 measuring, 2313
for, 2-34-35 2-326 in Sauerkraut, 3351, 535 during brining, 3-158
spit-roasting as, 2-32-33 rosetta pattern, for caffe lattes, 4392, So us Vide Root Vegetables, S-49, 53 salmon
turning or not turning in, 232-33 394-395 Rye Bread, SSS, 59 cold-smoking, parametric recipe for,
of whole hog, 2-30-31 rotary evaporators, 2-384-394 3-210
Robuchon,Joel boiling point vs. vacuum pressure in, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
on Adria as chef, 1-39 2-391 for, 3-102
mashed potatoes of, 1-37, 58 for concentrating flavor, 2-379, 380 diet and flesh color of, 3 93
New International cuisine and, 130 distillation using, 194, 2-384, Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 3-180
Nouvelle cuisine and individuality 388-391 Russian Smoked Salmon, 3-212
of, 1-27 essential oils and, 2320 Salmon Custard, 4 -119
Potato Puree recipe, 3-296, 297 manufacturers of, 2384 Salmon Poached in Licorice, 4-155
restaurants of, 131 for Modernist kitchen, 2-285 Salmon Rus plated-dish recipe,
Shellfish Custard recipe, 4-162 parts of, 2-386-387 S-161-165
sous vide cooking and, 1-41, 42, 43, Rocket, Genevac, 2-391-395 Salmon Tartare Cornets, 3-68
2-195 rotary vegetable slicers, Japanese, 3-327 in sorrel sauce, as first plated dish,
Robusta coffee beans, 4358 rotavaps. See rotary evaporators 1-25
rotaviruses, 1155 Sous Vide Salmon, S-161, 162
IN 0 EX Cl
s SALMON SKIN SOUFFLE
Salmon Skin Souffle, 5-161, 163 Salted Halibut, 3-187,5-151 sauces (continued) sauteing, 2-44-47
Salmonella spp. salted pollock roe, Fossilized Salsify Pressure-Cooked Polenta with covered, 2-58-61
CDC on foods associated with, 1-180 Branch, 3-399 Strawberry Marinara, 450 chao technique and, 2-54
"danger zone" temperatures and, salting. See also brining; curing Remoulade Sauce, 5-67, 75 cutaway illustration of, 2-60-61
1-176,177,178-179 example recipes for, 3-350-351, 354 Sauce Allemande, 4-88 searing or glazing before, 2-58
extended and simplified 6D of fish, scombroid poisoning and, Sauce VinJaune, 5-113, 116 flipping food in, 2-46-47
reduction guidelines for, 1-190 1-139 Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5-143, 145 heat transfer by conduction in, 1-277
FDA Food Code on cooking pork parametric recipe for, 3-348-349 smoking and application of, 3-211 pan selection for, 2-45
and, 1-179 protein gel of meat and seafood and, Sofrito, 5 -239,243 tips for, 2-44
FDA Food Code on thermal death 3-84 stocks for, 2-288 Savoy, Guy
curve for, 1-182-189 with salts other than sodium thickening strategies for, 2-346 Gras, Laurent and, 169
flesh contamination and, 1-117 chloride, chemistry of, 3-157 vacuum evaporation for reducing, New International cuisine and, 1-30
as food borne pathogens, 1-134 saltpeter 2-346 savoy cabbage
PSIS on reduction of, 1-168 for dry-curing, 3-165 XO Sauce, 4-52 Sauerkraut, 3-351
misconceptions about, I-llS for food preservation, 1-144-145 saucisson sec White Coleslaw, 5-67, 72
in poultry, FDA 2009 Food Code on, in sel rose (curing salt), 3-162 parametric recipe for, 3-244-245 Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables,
1-175 salts Saucisson Sec, 3 -247 5-167, 169
replication limits of, 1-145 curing sauerkraut Saxe, Godfrey, 3-220
Salmonella enterica, 1-132, 145 cold-smoked food and, 2-143 about, 5 -39 Scabin, Davide, 1-70
Salmonella er~teritidis, 1-118 composition of, 3-161 Braised Sauerkraut, 5-35, 39 scales
Salmonella Heidelberg, 1-132 in fermented sausages, 3-222 Sauerkraut, 3-351, 5 -35 temperature, 1-266, 285-286
Salmonella typhimurium, 1-132 in sausage, 3226 sausage stuffers, 3-227, 232 for weight measurement
salmon-poisoning fluke, 1-124 sel rose and, chemistry of, 3-162 sausages, 3-220-250. See also chorizo digital. See digital scales
salsify sodium nitrate in, 3 -158 Alsatian Munster Sausage, 5-35, 39 laboratory, for measuring
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe for marinating, 3-190 basic principles of, 3-220, 222 thickeners, 4-23
for, 3-289 mineral, plant food cooking and, blood, history of, 3-220 scallions, Roasted Scallion Marmalade,
Fossilized Salsify Branch, 3-399 3-278 Boudin Blanc, 3-243 5 -253,255
Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and salting with salts other than sodium Cantonese Fried Rice, 2 -176-177 scallops
Truffle Puree, 4-114 chloride and, chemistry of, 3-157 casing for biology of, 3-26, 27
Salsify Fondant, 5 -205, 207 saltwater, shellfish flavors and, 3-27 preparation of, 3-226 Chawanmushi, 4-96
salt cod broth, parametric recipe for, salty brine. See ice-brine baths types of, 3-227 chicken skin glued to, 3-252
2-304-305 sampling error, in small-scale studies, Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 3-248 contamination of, 3-27-28
Salt Gel, 5-5, 9 1-218 coarse-ground, 3-220, 222 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
salt pickles, parametric recipe for, 3-349 Sanders, Harland best bets for, 3-236-237 for, 3-103
salt (sodium chloride or table salt). See The Colonel's Chicken recipe, 3-336 cryoshattering for, 3-230 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
also brines; brining; curing; ice-brine franchises of, 1-31 parametric recipe for, 3-236-237 2-451
baths; salting innovations of, 121, 22 cold-smoked, 2-143 Scallop Mochi, 4-308-309, 5-197,
bitter flavors and, 5-227 pressure fryers and, 2-120 emulsified, 3-222, 225 202
for brine, rock salt vs ., 2-260 trade secrets of, 1-76 best bets for, 3-238-239 Scallop Tartare, 3-67
characteristics of, 3-152, 154 sandwiches, Egg Salad Sandwich, 4-90 Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, in Seafood Paper, 3-188
Clostridium perfringens and, 1-141 sanitization, pasteurization vs., 2 250 3-248 shucking of, 3-52
concentration of, brining and, 3-154 Sant Pau. See Ruscalleda, Carme Emulsion-Style Sausages, 3-238 -239 Scandinavia, early gastronomy of, 18,
drying with, 2 -430, 3-344 Santamaria, Santi, 163, 258 fat in, incorporating and holding, 10
in fermented sausage, 3-250 Sant'Eustachio II Caffe, 4-374, 396 3-224-225 Schecter, Andy, 4-396
formation of, 4-126 Santini, Nadia, Nouvelle cuisine and, fermented. See fermented sausages Schilling, Hans and Marketta, 1-33, 34
freezing-point depression and, 1-305 1-28 Fermented Sausage, 3-244-245 schizophrenia, Toxoplasma gondii and,
health and, 1-234, 236-237 Santos, Rafael Garda, 1-59 forming and finishing, how to, 1-127
hypertension research and, 1-234 sarcomeres, in muscle, 36, 8-9 3-240-241, 246 Schlosser, Eric, 1-23
for juicing, 2-335 sardines Frankfurter, 3-242 Schlow, Michael, Achatz's first meal at
legislation regulating, 1-237 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe fresh, 3-222 elBulli and, 1-38
moisture absorbed by, 2-428 for, 3-102 Fried Chicken Sausage, 3-249 schmaltz, chemistry of, 2-126
nucleation sites in boiling and, 1316 Eggplant Foam, 4-280 gel (binding) for, making, 3-222-223 Schneider, Martin, 1-70
organic label for, 1-245 saturated condition, solubility and, Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 5 -85 schnitzels, 2-127
other salts for brining vs ., chemistry 1-331 hot-smoking, parametric recipe for, Schomer, David
of, 3-157 saturated fat. See also cholesterol 3-210 on consistency, 4396
production process for, 1-256 characteristics of, 1222 Italian Sausage, 3-242 cooling burr grinders by, 4-376, 378
in sausage, 3-223 French cuisine and, 1-228 linking technique for, 3-230 espresso-making and, openness of,
scaling using baker's percentages saturated oils, flavor of unsaturated oils Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 3-248 4-374
and, 1-96 vs., 2-126 meat gels and, 3-70 inventions by, 4-398
seasoning with, 2-312 saturated solutions, 1-331, 332 meat grinding or chopping tools for, Myhrvold and, 4-375
sel rose as saturation vapor pressure, 1-320 3-230-233 profile of, 4-399
chemistry of, 3-162 sauces. See also barbecue sauces Modernist, 3-248-249 Schroeder, William, 1-62-63
composition of, 3-161 cheese, parametric recipe for, 4223 other ingredients in, 3-225 - 227 Schultz, Howard, 4-398
solubility in water of, 1-331, 332 converting grams to volumes for, overcooking, precautions for, 3 233 Schwa, 1-69
weights and measures for, 194 5-XXXVII poach test for, 3 -225 scientific names, origin of, 1-112
salt-coagulated egg, parametric recipe cooling of, 1-206 pregrinding meat treatments for, scientific research. See also double-blind
for, 4-82 flour-thickened, flavor release and, 3-228 trials; food science; randomized
Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 2-454, 4-11 Rare Beef Sausage, 3-249 clinical trials
5-185 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, sheets of, 3-241 food safety rules and, 1-166
Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 5-17,20 2-451 stuffing, 3-227, 230 sCJD (sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob
salted cod roe, Fossilized Salsify Jus Gras, 4-237 tenderness of, fat and, 3-224 disease)
Branch, 3-399 Pasta Marinara, 3-386 Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5-81, 82 scombroid poisoning, spoiled fish and,
Salted Cucumber, 5-233, 236 Sauteed Maitake Mushroom, 5-11, 15 1-139
Cll INDEX
SHI ITAKE MUSHROOM S
shallots
s
scorching, of deep-fried foods, 2-125 seafood (continued) sedimentation
as draining in foams, 4249 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
Scovi lle, Wilbur, 3-270 best bets for, 3-238
making a gel (binding) for, 3-222 as emulsion failure, 4210 for, 3-289, 290, 292
Scoville Heat Units (SHU), 3-270
Seafood Paper, 3-188 seeds Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 5-43,
scrambled eggs
searing before covered sauteing of, distribution of, ecology of, 3-265 47
parametric recipe for, 492
hydrocolloids from, 4-124 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2425
Scrambled Egg Foam, 5-215, 216 2-58
mustard, preserving, parametric shallow frying
scrapie, 1-157, 158 shellfish. See shellfish
smoking, 3-208-219 recipe for, 3-348 amount of oil for, 2-127-128
screw tops, for wine bottles, 4-344, 346
seasonal melanges with, 3-294 heat conduction in, 2-127
sea bass, cooking so us vide, parametric best bets for, 3-210
sesame, Pressure-Cooke d Sesame Shanghai Soup Dumplings plated-dish
recipe for, 3-102 sources for, 5-XXX!Il
tartares, 3-62-64,66-69 Seeds, 3-303, 5-181 recipe, 5-253-256
sea cucumber
temperature and flavor of, 3-88-89 toxins in, and propagation of, 3262 Shangri-La diet, 1-241
about, 5-203
typical Shanker, Anjana, chaat masala made by,
Bincho-Tan-Gr illed Sea Cucumber tenderizing enzymes in, 3-78
tenderness of, 3-10- 11 fat content of, 5-XLIII 5-281
Maitake Mushroom, Shisito
seafood brine, basic, parametric recipe water content of, 5XLI shark, Greenland, chemistry of, 3-43
Pepper, 5-197,203
for, 3-168 sel rose Shaved Foie Gras, 3-177
sea lettuce, 5-28
chemistry of, 3-162 shear forces
sea urchin tongues seal meat, myoglobin in, 315
composition of, 3161 in foam forming, 4-252
Sea Urchin Bottarga, 3-186, 5-225, Sealed Air Corporation, 1-42
selection bias, nutritional studies and, viscosity of fluids and, 4 5-6
226 seals, for canning, 2 -77
1-219 shear-thinning fluids
Sea Urchin Butter, 5-225, 227 seam cutting, 3-45, 47.
selenium, health benefits of, 1-235 emulsions as, 4204
Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 5-143, 145 Seared Hamachi, 5-147, 149
self-cleaning combi ovens, 2-169 fluid gels as, 4 -16, 176
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Seared Langoustine, 5-239, 245
semiconvecting foods, pressure- as non-Newtonian fluids, 46
Sesame, Ponzu, 5-197,202 Seared Strawberry, 5-277, 279
canning of, 2-88 whipped cream as, 4-248
Shellfish Custard, 4 -162 searing. See also cryosearing
with charcoal vs. gas grills, 2-11 semidry sausages, 3-246, 250 sheep. See also lamb
Uni with Whipped Tofu and
semolina pasta scrapie in, 1157
Tapioca, 4-285 in combi oven, convection mode for,
2-168 parametric recipe for, 3381 sheep liver fluke, 1-123
sea urchins, biology of, 3-30-31
covered sauteing and, 2-58 Semolina Pasta, 3 -382 shellfish. See also specific shellfish
seafood. See also fish; shellfish; specific
to crisp skin, 3-123 Senderens, Alain allergies to, 1-238
types ofseafood
DuckApicius and, 5-121 biology of, 3-26- 28
Activa as glue for, 3-250-256 extended and simplified 6D
blanching or searing before cooking, Salmonella reduction guidelines Foie Gras a Ia Vapeur recipe, 5-109 cooking sous vide
for, 1-190 Le Nouveau Guide on, 1-26 example recipes for, 3 -107
2-269
food safety and, 1-191 on wine pairings, 4 352 parametric recipe for, 3-102- 103
brining, 3-152, 154, 156, 158
sensory science fat content of, 5-XLIII
best bets for, 3-172 frozen meat, 3-122
Blumenthal and, 1-50 plated-dish recipes for, 5-179-207
converting muscle into, 3-37-38, 40, before Jaccarding, 3-51
ala plancha, 2-40- 41 of wine tasting, 4-337 raw, food safety and, 3-27-28
42
for Maillard reaction, 3-95 sequestrants Shellfish Butter, 2-329
cooking
calcium and, 4-126-127 Shellfish Custard, 4-162
color and appearance of, 3-92-93 for sealing juices in meat, myth of,
coagulant molecules and, 4-72 Shellfish Omakase plated-dish
flavor and, 3-84, 87-91 3-85
for sous vide cooking, 2-267,269, hydrating ion-coagulated gels with, recipe, 5-197-203
grilling. See grilling
270 - 275 4-125 smoked
ideal temperature for, 3-89
using, 4-129 example recipe for, 3215
innards of, 3 -142-143 temperatures for, 1-186- 187
Sergi Arola Gastro, 1-57 parametric recipe for, 3 -210
juiciness of, 3-79, 83 before vacuum packing vs. after
serovars (serotypes), bacterial variants tender, cooking sous vide
muscles and, 3 5 cooking, 2-268
as, 1-132 best bets for, 3-103
optics of, 3-93-94 seasonings. See also dry rubs; spice
Serra, Richard, Yogurt Foam and Sweet parametric recipe for, 3103
skin of, 3-129-132 mixes; spices; specific seasonings
Potato Chips recipe, 4 -287 tough, cooking sous vide
sous vide, 2-206, 276-279 converting grams to volumes for,
5-XXXVIII Serrano, Julian, New International best bets for, 3-108
stages in, from raw to cooked, 3-76,
meat and seafood, 3-88 cuisine and, 130 example recipes for, 3-112
78- 79
service aIa Russe, 125 parametric recipe for, 3108
succulence of, 3-83 - 84 with salt and other flavor enhancers,
serving temperature shellfish consomme, parametric recipe
tenderness of, 3-70 2-312
with wine, beer, and spirits, 2-317 brewed coffee and, 4-364 for, 2-374-375
trade-offs in, 3 -94- 95
gel selection and, 4-73 shellfish jus, parametric recipe for,
critical temperature for freeze- seasoning woks or frying pans, 2 53
Seattle, as coffee capital of the world, thickener selection and, 4 -14- 15 2-344-345
drying, 2 -446
sesame oil, chemistry of, 2126 shellfish sausage, parametric recipe for,
crustaceans, biology of, 3-28-31 history of, 4-398
Seattle's Best Coffee, 4-398 sesame seeds, Pressure-Cooke d Sesame 3-238-239
cured
seaweed Seeds, 3-303, 5-181 shellfish stock
ripening of, 3-167, 171
set foams, 4 -288-301 parametric recipe for, 2-296 - 297
smoking of, 3 -173 Bacon Dashi, 2-308
Fluke Cured in Kombu, 3-181 baked, water as secondary foaming Shellfish Stock, 2-297, 5-185, 186
curing, 3-158, 160, 162
Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice gas for, 4-254 Shelton, Winston. See also CVap water-
best bets for, 3-172
baked goods as, 4-245 vapor ovens
cutting, 3-52-60 and Sea Lettuce, 3-149
best bets for, 4-288-289 on forced convection in ovens, 2 -159
fermenting, drying with warm air gelling agents from, 4-68, 126
example recipes for, 4-290-301 pressure fryers and, 2-120
and, 2-433 Hon Dashi, 2-306, 5-197
hydrocolloids from, 4-124 frozen, 4-245,247 Sherry Gel Cube, 5-267, 270
frozen, handling and quality of,
Marinated Ogo, 5-175, 177 parametric recipe for, 4 -288-289 Shigella spp., 1-134, 145
1-182
as thermo-irrevers ible gels, 4-244 Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,
how muscle works in, 3-20-31 preserving, parametric recipe for,
vacuum-inflated, 4-252, 254,310- 315 Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder,
Maillard reaction and flavor of, 3 -348
Seaweed Tapenade, 5-25,27 settling period 5-197,200
3-89-91
in baking, 2-106 shiitake mushrooms
marinating, 3-190-207 Seaweed Vinegar, 2-315
in deep-frying, 2-116-11 7 cooking sous vid e, parametric recipe
mollusks, biology of, 3 -24-26 thickening agents from, 4 -5, 19
types of, 5-28 in drying, 2-431 for, 3-289
muscles in, 3-20-31
Seven Countries Study, 1-225 Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino,
salting. See curing secondary emulsion, 4206
shaft horsepower, 1-274 4-275
sausage made from The Secret Life of Germs (Tierno), 1-196
Clll
INDE X
s SH IITAKE MUSHROOMS
shiitake mushrooms (continued) skate (continued) Smoked Lettuce, 511, 15 sodium alginate
Mushroom Ketchup, 511, 13 Skate in Black Butter plated-dish Smoked Octopus, 3-215 as emulsion stabilizer, 4 215
Mushroom Puree, 5-215, 216 recipe, 5157-159 Smoked Pepper Puree, 5-55, 57 as foam stabilizer, 4257
Shiitake Marmalade, 55, 7 Skate Pave with Bread Crust, 5-157, Smoked Pork Cheek, 535, 38 grades of, 5-256
Sichuan Bok Choy, 3-313 159 Smoked Potato Confit, 5193, 195 interactions with other thickeners,
Sweetbreads with Sour Mango skin, 3-116-135. See also chicken skin; Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune 444-45
Powder and Shiitake, 3-151 duck skin; fish skin Sabayon, 3-363 product guide for, 4 -1V-V
shimeji mushrooms baking chicken upright and, 2-109 smoking, 2 -132- 149, 3-208-219. See also properties and uses of, 4 -42-43
Compressed Dill Pickled of cephalopods, 3-24 barbecue; smoke for spherification, parametric recipe
Vegetables, 555, 58 components of, 3-116 air flow and temperature for, 2 137 for, 4187
cooking sous vide, parametric cooking separately from meat, 3-122 capturing flavor in, 2-138 sodium benzoate, fresh juice color and,
recipe for, 3289 crisping, 3-123 chemicals and, 2-140 2-338
French Scrambled Eggs, 4-93 approaches to, 3123 cold, 2-141-143,3-61 sodium caseinate, for froths, parametric
Shimomura, Koji, 1-70 after cooking sous vide, 2-268 of dairy products recipe for, 4 -264
shisito pepper, Bincho-Tan-Grilled Sea offish, 3129 best bets for, 4-100 sodium citrate
Cucumber Maitake Mushroom, slime as key to, 3129 exa mple recipes for, 4-101 hydrating ion-coagulated gels with,
Shisito Pepper, 5-197, 203 of small fish, how to, 3-130 of deep-frying oil, 2-124 4-126
SHMP. See sodium hexametaphosphate so us vide, of fish, 3-131 of eggs, best bets for, 4 -100 processed cheese food and, 4-222
shot glass, pulling espresso shot into, meat equipment for, 2146-147, 285, 3208 product guide for, 4-IV-V
4 -384 cooking, 3-116-129, 133- 135 of fermented sausages, 3222 as sequestrant, 4 129
shrimp gluing on, 3-252 fire for, 3-208, 211 sodium hexametaphosphate (SHMP)
biology of, 3-28, 31 puffing, 3-123 offish, scombroid poisoning and, for brining or curing, 3-157
brining, parametric recipe for, 3-172 softening, 3-116, 118, 122-123 1-139 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe
dried, Pad Thai, 3 -385 skin-puncturing tool flesh surface in, 3211 for, 4-165
Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 5-167, for Modernist kitchen, 2-286 hot, 2-143, 148, 3-211, 361 hydrating LA gellan with, 4-125
168 Peking Duck cooking using, 3-122 humidity and, 2-132 product guide for, 4 -1V-V
as seafood gel, 3 -222 skyr, parametric recipe for, 456 by hunter-gatherers, 1-6 as sequestrant, 4129
Shrimp and Grits, 3 -377 slaughterhouse practices, 3-32, 34-35, making smoke for, 2-134, 137 for spherification, parametric recipe
Shrimp Cocktail, 3-107 36 of meat for, 4-187
Shrimp Cocktail plated-dish recipe, Slayer espresso machine, 4-398, 400, example recipe for, 3213 sodium nitrate, 3-158, 165
5180-183 401 parametric recipe for, 3210 sodium nitrite, 1144-145, 3-165,226
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root slicing myths and lore of, 2-145 sodium pyrophosphate, 4-1V-V
Tempura with Smoked White Soy of fish, for nigiri sushi, 3-60 of plant foods, 3-344,361-363 sodium tripolyphosphate
Sauce, 5-197, 201 of meat, 3-47, 50, 76 example recipe for, 3-363 for brining or curing, 3157, 158
SHU (Scoville Heat Units), 3-270 slime, crispy skin and, physiology of, parametric recipe for, 3362 in marinade, 3143
S1 units (Systeme International 3-129 progressive, 2148 myosin extraction for sausage and,
d'Unites), 1-272 Slow Food, history of, 1-23 regional specialties in, 3218-219 3-223
Sichuan Bok Choy, 3 313 slow-curing rub, parametric recipe for, ripening of cured meat or seafood Sofrito, 5239, 243
side towels, cross-contamination and, 3-169 and, 3173 soft drinks
1-200 slow- twitch muscles of sausages, 3-240 carbon dioxide for, 1-334, 4-254
Siebeck, Wolfram, 1-62 fast-twitch muscles vs., 3-11-12 of shellfish ready-to-drink, 1-20
sieving. See also filtering fat content and, 3-18 example recipe for, 3-215 soft-boiled eggs
equipment for, 2-286 in meat, 311-12 parametric recipe for, 3 -210 parametric recipe for, 4 79
for filtering, 2-351, 353 meat color and, 3-14-15 smoke temperature in, 2-140-141 perfect, how to, 4 -79
signature dishes, Modernist cuisine at slug-and-column boiling, 1-316, 318, tapeworms and, 1124 process for, 474
e!Bulli vs., 137 2-68 -69 temperature for, 2-132, 135 Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic
silica gel slurry method, for Activa bonds, 3-256 wet vs. dry food and, 2-141 Emulsion, 4 -227
desiccant properties of, 2 -428, 433 small dense low-density lipoproteins wood choices for, 2-136 sole
freeze-dried food storage and, (sdLDL), 1-226,227 snails cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
2-447 small-scale scientific studies, 1-218 biology of, 3-26 for, 3-102
silicone mats, 2286 SMC (super methylcellulose), for cooking so us vide, parametric recipe in Seared Hamachi, 5147, 149
silicone molds, 2-286 cellu lose gum gels, parametric recipe for, 3-108 sole meuniere and, science of, 340
silicone oven mitts, conduction in, for, 4170, 171 farmed, 5-243 Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot
1-280 smells. See aromas; odors Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5-239, 243 Sabayon, 4 -274
Silken Tofu, 4113 Smith, Clark, on dealcoholization, 4 331 snapper Soler,Juli, 1-33,34, 38
simmering smoke. See also smoking cooking so us vide, parametric recipe solids
boiling vs., 1-316 capturing flavor of, 2138 for, 3-102 bulking, hydrocolloid hydration and,
definition of, 1-317 chemistry of flavor and, 2-12 Crispy Snapper Skin, 5-167, 168 4-40
simple syrup, as reduction, 4 -11 hot vs. cold, 2 -140-141 Sous Vide Snapper, 5-167, 169 dissolved, reduction and, 411
simulations, computer. See computer liquid SNCF (French railway system), sous as foaming agents, 4244
simulation models chemistry of, 2-149 vide cooking and, 1-41 Fourier on heat conduction through,
Sinclair, Upton, 335 for cold-smoking, 3-361 soap, as surfactant, 4202 1-278
single-disc mills, for dry-grinding, making, 2-134, 137 Soccarat Tuile, 5-239, 245 hot, physics of blowing on, 1-288
2-404 smell of, appeal to humans, 3-208 "The Socrates of the Nouvelle Cuisine, .. internal energy of, 1-264
sinks, cross-contamination and, 1-200 temperature of, 2-140-141 1-26 physics of, 1-301
Siphoned Souf!le a Ia Lorraine, 4-297 smoke condensates, drenching food soda siphon, 2 -286 phase changes and thermal energy
Siphoned Tempura Batter, 5-143, 144 with,2-149 soda water from, 1-290
siphons. See soda siphon; whipping smoke gun, packing and lighting, how Priestley's "fixed air" and, 2-464 radiant heat from, 1-285
siphons to, 3-214 taste of, 2-465 rheologic descriptions of, 4.V1ll
skate smoke points, offrying oils, 2-116, 125, sodas as solvents, 1-330
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe 126 carbon dioxide for, 1334, 4 -254 suspended, molding gels with, how
for, 3-102 Smoked Egg Creme Caramel, 4-101 ready-to-drink, 1-20 to, 4-133
smoked fish, example recipe for, 3-212 sodium, ion-exchange filters and, 1335 suspension in, gel selection and, 4 73
CIV INDEX
SPO ILAGE BACTERIA
solubility. See also dissolved materials sous vide methods (continued) Sous Vide Lentils, 5-267, 271 species, in scientific naming system,
concentration of solution and, 1331 for slabs of meat with width and Sous Vide Monkfish Pave, 5-151, ISS 1-112
of polar solids, 1-330 length five times its thickness, Sous Vide Mussel, 5-151, 154 specific heat
solubility limit, 1-331 2-279 Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 2-346 calculating efficiency using, 1-275
solubles concentration, brewing control cooking to specific temperatures Sous Vide Octopus, 5-193, 194 definition of, 1-266- 267
chart on, 4 -366-367 and, 2-243-247 Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 5-125, 130 heat capacity of cookware and, 1-278
solubles yield, brewing control chart on, definition of, 2-195, 197 Sous Vide Ponzu, 2-313 how liquid nitrogen boils and,
4-366-367 development of, 2-252, 265 Sous Vide Pork Belly, 5-101, 102 science of, 2-457
solutes, 1-330 equipment for, 2-228-241. See also Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 2-347 measuring of, 1-268
solutions, 1-330. See also dissolved equipment; specific types of Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 5-239, 242 specific heat capacity
materials; solubility equipment Sous Vide Rare BeefJus, 2 -349 of common kitchen materials, 1-267
Solvay process, 1-255 for home use, 1-73 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, 5-49, 53 definition of, 1-266-267
solvent extraction, of essential oils, extended and simplified 6.SD Sous Vide Salmon, 5-161, 162 spectrum. See also emission spectra
2-320 Salmonella reduction for, 1-193 Sous Vide Snapper, 5 -167, 169 heat rays on, 1-284
solvents, 1-330 extracting flavors with, 2-251 Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5-31, 32 infrared, 1-287
sonicators, 2-398 FDA rules on, 1-182, 186, 189 Sous Vide Turnip, 5-3 1, 33 Spectrum diet, 1-242
Sontheimer, Carl, 2-412 food poisoning and, 1-138 Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 5-49, SO Spencer, Percy, 1-22, 2-182-183
sorbet holding food at target temperature Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2-347 spheres, molding gel into, 4 -135
Aerated Mango Sorbet, 4-311 and, 2-247-249 Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2-303 spherification, 4 -184-195
pacotizing, 2-406, 407, 408-409 at home, history of, 1-73 Sous Vide White Asparagus, 5-147, 149 Adria's use of, 1-39,4 -184
Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, S-277, 279 infusing flavors with, 2 -251 South Beach Diet, 1-242 alginate for, 4-127
sorbitan esters, as surfactant liquid nitrogen and, 2-459 South Carolina BBQSauce, 5-66, 70 best bets for, 4-187
emulsifiers, 4-216-217 low-temperature steam mode for, South Carolina hospital food, AGS with cryogens, 4-184
sorbitol 2-157 system of vacuum packing for, 1-40 direct, 4-130, 186
for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe for mass-market dinners, 2 -265 Southern barbecue, hot-smoking and , evolution of, 5-256
for, 4-165 New York City health department 3 -211 example recipes for, 4-188-195
for hot gels, parametric recipe for, rules on, 1-188, 195 soy, foaming agent in, 4-251 hydrocolloid coagulation and, 4-70
4 -160 packaging food for. See vacuum soy curd, traditional method for, 4-102 melon juice beads due to, 4-48
S0rensen, S0ren Peter Lauritz, 3-194 packing soy gels, parametric recipe for, parametric recipe for, 4-186-187
souffles pasteurizing for storage using, 4 -116-117 reverse, 4 -187, 5-254
cutaway illustration of, 4-248-249 2 -249-250 soy lecithin suspending solids in gelled spheres
Gruyere Souffie, 4-301 reheating and, 2-242, 262, 264 de-oiled, for airs and froths, and, 4-187
Salmon Skin Souffie, S-161, 163 ripening technique using, 2-250 parametric recipe for, 4 -264 spice mixes
as set foam, 4-247-248 searing and, 2 -266-275 product guide for, 4-!1- l!I Fish Spice Mix, 5-151, 154
Siphoned Souffie a Ia Lorraine, 4 -297 smoking using, 2 -148 soy milk Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5-151, ISS
sound, Blumenthal's use of, I-SO steps in, 2-202-203 Frozen White "Truffie," 3-400-401 Sweet Spice Blend, 5-211,212
soup, Adri:i's method for serving, 152 stocks and, 2-302 Soy Milk, 4 -58 Spiced Ash, 5-17,22
Sour Cream Spaetzle (Csipetke), 4 -117, temperature control wi th, soy oil, hydrogenated, chemistry of, Spiced Chili Oil, 2-330
5-SS, 59 2-230-231 2 -126 Spiced Honey Glass, 5-121, 123
sour flavor, coffee brewing and, 4-364 thawing foods directly from freezer soy sauce Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 5-109, Ill
sour mango powder, Sweetbreads with and, 2-258, 262 Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Spice-Mix Emulsion, 5-151, ISS
Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake, 3-151 thawing or cooking foods directly Vinaigrette, 5-181, 183 spices
Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 5-277, 279 from freezer and, 2-258, 262 smoking, parametric recipe for, for brining or curing, 3158
sour vinegar pickles, parametric recipe water baths for. See water baths 3-362 medieval cuisine and, 1-12
for, 3-349 water circulation control for, Soy Sauce Cloud, 4-299 in sausage, 3-226
sous vide methods, 2-192-279 2 -234-235 Soy Vinegar Infusion, 5-253, 256 seasonal melanges with, 3-295
aging braises and pot roasts and, Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal soy yuba, 5-205 toasting, 5-94
2-98 Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 3-111 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu trading, discovery of New World
aging technique using, 2-250 Sous Vide Artichoke, 5-239, 244 with Yuba and Enoki, 5-197, 203 and, 1-14, 3-197
AGS system ofvacuum packing and, Sous Vide Baby Beet, 5-181, 183 Green Pea Yuba, 4-115 spinach
1-40 Sous Vide Baby Golden Beet, 5-233, soybean oil, chemistry of, 2-126 cooking
benefits of, 2-198-199,201 235 soybeans, allergies to, 1-238 benefits of, 3 -267
blanching for, 2-266-275 Sous Vide BeefJuice, 2-349 spaetzle, Sour Cream Spaetzle sous vide, parametric recipe for,
chilling strategies, 2-251-265 Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak, 5 5, 7 (Csipetke), 4-117,5-55, 59 3-290
common myths about, science of, Sous Vide Berry Juice, 2-340 Spaghetti aile Vongole plated-dish Creamed Spinach, 4-55
2-206-207 Sous Vide Black Cod, 5-171, 173 recipe, S-229-231 dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
confit, 2-128-129 Sous Vide Braised Snail, 5-239, 243 Spaghetti Carbonara, 3-384 3-366
cook-chill. See cook-chill sous vide Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, 3-308 spaghetti squash, Marinated Spaghetti E. coli 0157:H7 outbreak of2006
methods Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 3-353 Squash, 5-147, 149 and, 1-169-170, 172, 195
cookers for, types of, 2-232-233 Sous Vide Cuisine (Roca), 1-58 Spago, 1-29 puree of, parametric recipe for, 2425
cooking foods directly from freezer Sous Vide Duck Con fit Pave, 5-81, 82 Spain Spinach Paper, 3-369
and, 2-258, 262 Sous Vide Duck Ham, 5-85, 87 early gastronomy of, 1-10 spinalis dorsi, in pork and beef, 3-15
cooking strategies for, 2-204-205, Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2-303 Horchata drinks in, 4-59 spirits. See also alcohol (ethanol); specific
242-251 Sous Vide Foie Gras, 5-109, 110 influence on Western cuisine by, 1-14 alcoholic beverages
cooking times and Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 5-219, Modernist cuisine in, 1-57 distillation of, 2-384, 390
for cylinder-shaped food with 221 Nouvelle cuisine in, 128 production process for liquor and,
diameter IS em/ 6 in, 2 -276 Sous Vide Golden Beets, 5-233, 235 Spam, 1-21, 22-23 1-256
for cylinder-shaped food with Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 5-147, 149 sparkling white wine. See also seasoning with, 2 -317
length IS em/ 6 in, 2-277 Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 5-135, 137 Champagne spit jacks for roasting, 2-28
for cylinder-shaped food with Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 4-183 spit-roasting, 2-32-33
thickness about equal to 1-95-96, 4-228 Oysters with Cava Foam, 4-277 spittle, human, contamination by, 1-116,
diameter, 2-278 Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 4-227 Sparta, Greece, military cuisine in, 1-12, 117
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 2-330 13 spoilage bacteria, 1-133-134, 135
INDE X CV
s SPONGES
sponges, cross-contamination and, starches (continued) sterilization (continued) stove-top smokers, 2 -146
1-200 example recipes for, 4-29,31-37 canning and, 2-76 straining, for filtering, 2-351, 353
spongiform encephalopathies, modern, parametric recipe for, 4 -30 modern confit preparation and, 2128 strawberries
transmissible, 1-156-159 traditional, parametric recipe for, pasteurization vs ., 2249-250 compressing, parametric recipe for,
sporadic Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease 4-28 in pressure-canning, 2 85, 88 3-390
(sCJD), 1-157 statins, heart disease and, 1-227 time to temperature using pressure dehydrating, parametric recipe for,
spores, bacterial, food spoilage and, statistical power, of nutritional studies, canning for, 2-89 3-366
1-136, 138-141 1-220 Stewart Brothers Coffee, 4398 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for,
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura statis ti cian, Gosset as, 4-251 stewing, 2-96- 98. See also braising 3-372
with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 5197, stators cutaway illustration of, 2-96-97 heat-treating, parametric recipe for,
201 in colloid mills, 2-413-414 pot-roasting or braisingvs., 2-93 3-359
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 4-233 in rotor-stator homogenizer, 2-413 stiffness, gel selection and, 473 impregnating, parametric recipe for,
spray dryer, example recipes for, 2-443 steaks. See also beef Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns, 5-113, 119 3-390
Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 2-443 cooked, fats in, 1-233 stir-frying, 2-48-57. See also woks Piquillo Pepper and Strawberry
Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 2-443 FDA Food Code on cooking, 1-174 baa technique for, 2-54-55 Salad, 5-277, 278
spray-drying in frying pan, cutaway illustration of, burners for, 2-48, 52, 56-57 Pressure-Cooked Polenta with
characteristics of, 2-438-441 3-72-73 chao technique for, 2 -54, 56-57 Strawberry Marinara, 4 -50
equipment for, 2-285, 430 vs. roasts, FDA Food Code on, 1-187 cutaway illustration of, 2-50-51, Seared Strawberry, 5-277,279
method for, 2-442 steam. See also autoclaves; bubbles; 56-57 Strawberry Consomme, 5-277, 278
spreads evaporatiOnj steaming heat transfer in, 248 Strawberry Gazpacho, 5-277, 278
cheese, parametric recipe for, 4 -223 blanching using, 2 -267 seasoning woks or frying pans for, Strawberry Milk Shake, 2 -473,5-11
Olive Oil Spread, 4-51 boiling and, 2-65, 68-69 2-53 strawberry chips, parametric recipe for,
Spring Garlic Consomme, 585, 86 burns from, 1-319, 2-154 stirred baths, for sous vide cooking, 3328
spring-loaded valves, for pressure condensing, heat transfer coefficient 2-234 stress, slaughterhouse practices and, 334
cookers, 2-86-87 of, 1-283 stirring. See also magnetic stirring bar stretching phase, in milk steaming,
Square Mile Coffee, 4-396 in deep-frying, 2-115,116-117, boundary layer and, 1-283 4-391
squash . See also specific types of squash 118-119, 125 before poaching eggs, physics of, 2-67 strong coffee, brewing and, 4-364
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe distillation, of essential oils, 2-318, Stockfleth 's method, for grooming Stuffed Clam, 5-229, 231
for, 3-289 320 espresso, 4 -381 Stuffed Morels, 5113, 117
dehydrating, parametric recipe for, as foaming gas, 4 -254 stocks Stuffed Smoky Braised Eggplant, 5-99
3-366 heat of vaporization of water and, aromatics for, 2298 Stupak, Alex
Squash Glaze, 5-60, 63 1-296 brown Aerated Coffee Ice Cream recipe,
squid low-temperature, use of term, 2-155 Brown Beef Stock, 2-301 4-312
biology of, 3-24 in shallow frying, 2-127-128 Brown Butter Furnet, 5-157, 158 Pistachio Puree recipe, 2427
cooking so us vide, parametric recipe as water phase, 1-300 Brown Veal Stock, 2-300 Whipped Cheese recipe, 4-272
for, 3-108 zones of, 1-318 rich, parametric recipe for, 2297 sturgeon
scoring to tenderize, 3 -56 steam mode Rich Brown Stock, 2-297 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
in Seafood Paper, 3-188 in combi ovens, 2167 concentrating flavor of, 2380 for, 3-102
Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 3-113 in CVap water-vapor oven, 2-158-159 cooling of, 1-206 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 5-233,
squid ink in ovens, pros and cons of, 2155-156 example recipes for, 2-300-301, 303 235
Squid Ink Fluid Gel, 4 -131 steam wands flavor extraction for sauces and, 2 -288 Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes,
Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, foam forming with, 4-258 freeze-drying, parametric recipe for, 5-233,235
3-397 to froth milk, 4-391 2-451 "Styrofoam" Cup and Lid, 5-247,
Ssamjang Paste, 5-285, 287 Steamed Blancmange, 4-296 Onion Stock, 5-261, 264 248-249
St.John, 3-142 Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute, 4-32 Paella Stock, 5-239, 240 Subijana, Pedro, Eggs Benedict recipe,
Staphylococcus aureus, 1-135, 144-145 Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 5-181, 183 parametric recipe for, 2-296- 298 4-86
star anise extract, parametric recipe for, Steamed Sticky Rice, 5113, 119 Pressure-Cooked White Chicken sublimation
2-326 steaming, 270-73. See also autoclaves; Stock, 2-301 of aromatic compounds in frozen
star anise infusion, parametric recipe steam pressure-cooking, 2-294-295 foods, 2-261
for, 2-310 boiling vs., 2-72-73 how to, 2-293 carbonating liquids and, 2-464
Starbucks, 4-398 chemistry of sweetness due to, 270 Ramen Stock Powder, 2-455,5 -247 critical temperature for freeze-
Starch-Infused Fries, 3-324 cutaway illustration of, 272-73 shellfish, parametric recipe for, 2-297 drying and, 2-446
Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 3-325 fog compared to, 2-71 Shellfish Stock, 2-297 deposition vs., 1-329
starches, 4 -20-37. See also specific hot-packing canning and, 277 size of ingredients and flavor of, dry ice and, 1-326
starches as phase change, 1-290 2-290-292 evaporative cooling due to, 2446
best bets for thickening with, 4-28 in Western and Asian cooking, 2-70 so us vide in freeze-drying, 1-328, 2-444, 3-365
dispersion of, 4-20, 22 Steam'N'Hold vapor oven, 2 -158 Sous Vide Fish Stock, 2-303 in freezers, 1-326
drying plants foods with, 3-365 stearic acid, 1-233, 234 Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2-303 heat of, 1-326
in fermented sausage, 3 -246 Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel vacuum filtering of, 2-354 of ice, 1-326
flavor release by, 4-11 Salad, 3-106 white solid transmission to gas as,
foam forming with, 4-244,247,255 Stefan, Josef, 1-287 parametric recipe for, 2-297 1-326-329
gelling agents from, 4-68, 69 Stefan-Boltzmann law, 1-285-286, 289 White Stock, 2 -297 of water, 1-326-329
hydration of, 4 -22 Steingarten, Jeffrey stomach subspecies, 1-132
modified . See modified starches biography of, 1-65 characteristics and cooking of, succulence, cooking meat and seafood
in plant foods, 3-280-283 on Chinese restaurant syndrome, 3-142-143 and, 3-83-84
plated-dish recipes for, 5-223-256 1-213 as sausage binder, 3-222 suckling pig
pregelatinized on hypermodern cuisine, 157 stove top. See also burners cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
as emulsion stabilizer, 4215 on oxalic acid in spinach, 3-267, 273 braising and pot-roasting using, 2-96 for, 3-96, 109
thickening sauces, jus, or glazes Potato Puree recipe, 3296 how heat is lost from, 1-276 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot
with, 2-346 Stelvin screw top for wine, 4344 hydrating thickeners on, 4-26 and Orange Sauce, 3-110
proprietary blends, sources of, 4 -41 steric hindrance or resistance, 412 for Modernist kitchen, 2-287 Sucro, for airs and froths, parametric
as thickeners, 45, 7, 13, 19 sterilization, 1-148-149 pot on. See pots, on stove recipe for, 4-264
in boiling-water canning, 2-79-80 reductions, 2-346, 379
CVI IN 0 EX
TARGET CORE TEMPERATURE T
sucrose
centrifuging and, 2-368
for cold gels, parametric recipe for,
4-140
GRAS criteria and, 1-254
surface area, volume ratio to, 2-288
surface tension
of bubbles, 4-246
of water, hydrogen bonds and, 1-296,
298
sweetness, chemistry of steaming and,
2-70
Swiss cheese
The American Cheese Slice, 4-224
scombroid poisoning and, 1-139
T
table salt. See salt (sodium chloride or
suction pump, vacuum filtration and, surfactants swordfish, cooking temperature for, table salt)
2-354 emulsifiers as, 4-202 3-83 Taeniasaginata, 1-124
Suet Mousseline, 55, 8 as foaming agent, 4-244 Sybaris, Greece, culinary inventions Taeniasolium, 1-124
sugar preserves, parametric recipe for, HLB values and, chemistry of, 4-204 protected in, 1-12, 13 Tagine Base, 5-135, 137
3-349 in oil used for deep-frying, 2 -123 syneresis Tailor, 1-67
sugar syrup, cooking fruits or vegetables for stabilizing emulsions, 4214 freeze filtration and, 2-369, 370-371 tails, in distillation, 2-384
sous vide in, 3291 Surger, in Guinness beer bottles, 4251 gel failure due to, 4-67 Takazawa, Yoshiaki, 170
sugar-glass foams surgical tweezers, for cooking, 1197 modern thickeners and, 45 aesthetics of nature in dishes of, 4-37
carbon dioxide for, 4-254 surimi, 3-251, 388 thickener selection and, 4 -15, 17 Talbot, H. Alexander
Modernist cuisine and, 4-255 susceptible populations synergy Aerated Gruyere and, 4312
sugars foodborne illnesses and, 1-174, 191 gelling agents and, 4-72 agar for clarifying liquids and, 2-372
converting grams to volumes for, warnings for, 1-178, 182 thickeners and, 4 -16 on blanching sous vide, 3-293
5-XXXVII-XXXVIII sushi Synesso espresso machine, 4372, 374, on browned solids from clarified
dissolving in water, 1-296 anisakid infections and, 1-122-123 375, 398, 400 butter, 4-212
drying with, 2-430, 3-344 flash-cooking, how to, 3-61 Cyncra model of, 4-401 chicken skin glued to scallops by,
for edible films, parametric recipe nigiri, how to slice fish for, 3-60 Synsepalum dulcificum, 2-465 3-252
for, 4 -60 tapeworms and, 1124 synthetic corks, for wine bottles, 4-344, Compressed Melon Terrine recipe,
freeze-drying and, 2-447 suspending solids in gelled spheres, 4-187 345,346 3-392
freezing-point depression and, 1-305 sustainable food syrups on cooking whole chicken eggs, 475
for juicing, 2-335 current buzz on, 1-248 converting grams to volumes for, fast hot-spring eggs and, 4-78
organic food movement perception New American cuisine and, 1-28 5-XXXVII fish skin pillows of, 3-131
of, 1-253 Swatland, Howard, 3-44 maple, grades of, 5-77 gel filtration and, 2-369
production process for, 1-256 Swedish hospital food, so us vide Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5-125, 128 Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe,
refining process for, 1-254 technology and, 1-40, 2-252, 265 Miang Syrup, 5-189, 191 4-105
in sausage, 3-226 Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze, 543, 44 sugar, cooking fruits or vegetables Ideas in Food blog and, 1-66, 67
for set foams, parametric recipe for, sweet cure, basic, parametric recipe for, sous vide in, 3-291 Modernist Bechamel and, 4-31
4-288-289 3-169 White Grape Syrup, 4-52 Pasta Marinara recipe, 3386
solids, as foam stabilizer, 4257 sweet Italian sausage, parametric recipe Systeme International d'Unites, 1-272 Pulled Mushroom recipe, 3-396
solubility in water of, 1-331, 332 for, 3-236-237 smoked eggs by, 4-100
spherification and, 4-184 Sweet Onion Salsa, 5-175, 177 Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe,
supersaturated solution of, 1-332 Sweet Pea and Young Ginger Fricassee, 4-292
for thick foams, parametric recipe 5273, 275 tamago, example recipe for, 494
for, 4-278 -279 Sweet Pea Clusters, 4 -173 tamarind
Sugimoto, Tagashi, Green Pea Yuba Sweet Pea Fricassee plated-dish recipe, as acidifier, 2-314
recipe, 4-115 5272-275 Tamarind Paste, 5-43, 99
sulfites Sweet Pea Wafer, 3371 Tamarind Puree, 5-281, 282
drying plant foods with, 3-365 sweet peas. See green peas tampers, for espresso, 4 -383-384
fresh juice color and, 2-338 Sweet Potato Fondant, 5-35,39 tamping, of espresso portafilters
intolerance to, 1-239 sweet potatoes considerations for, 4-383-384
sulfur dioxide, cork taint in wine and, cooking sous vide, parametric recipe dosing and, 4-380
4-348-349 for, 3-292 how to, 4-382
Sullivan, Geneva, 4 -399 necrotizing enteritis and, 1-141 pressure-controlled, 4 -398
summer squash, cooking so us vide, Sweet Potato Fondant, 535, 39 tannic acid, acorn cooking by Native
parametric recipe for, 3289 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Americans and, 16
sunchokes Chips, 4 -287 tannin, in red wine, reducing, 4334
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Sweet Spice Blend, 5-211,212 tapenade, Seaweed Tapenade, 5-25, 27
for, 3-289 sweet spot or zone tapeworms, 1-124-125
Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 4 31 of broilers, 2-18-19, 22-23 contamination by, 1120
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 5-125, of grills, 2-14-17 destruction of, 1-123
131 roasting and, 2-32 types of, 1-124
puree of, parametric recipe for, 2 -425 sweet vinegar pickles, parametric recipe tapioca
Sunday Pork Belly plated-dish recipe, for, 3349 Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 5205, 207
5101-105 Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onions, 5-17, Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 4 -29
sunflower oil, chemistry of, 2-126 19 Uni with Whipped Tofu and
Sunny-Side Up "Eggs," 4-148-149 sweetbreads Tapioca, 4 -285
sunny-side up eggs, process for, 4-74 brining, parametric recipe for, 3172 tapioca starch, 4-20, 21, 28, 68
super methylcellulose (SMC), for characteristics and cooking of, 3-140 source of, 3-376
cellulose gum gels, parametric recipe cooking sous vide, 3-146 thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 4-170, 171 parametric recipe for, 3146 for, 4-28
supercooled liquids, 1-304 Crispy Sweetbreads, 3-150 tapioca starch cracker
how to supercool water and, 1312 definition of, 5-32 parametric recipe for, 4302
supercritical fluids Sous Vide Sweetbreads, 5-31, 32 Tapioca Starch Cracker, 4-303
critical point and, 1-328 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango tarbais beans, Pressure-Cooked Tarbais
extraction Powder and Shiitake, 3-151 Beans, 5-81,83
decaffeinated coffee and, 4-363 sweeteners. See also specific sweeteners target core temperature
flavor and, 2320 volume tric equivalents for amounts holding food at, 2-247-249
as gas and liquid, 1-302-303 of,5-XL1V water bath hotter than, 2243-247
supersaturated solutions, 1332 water content of, 5-XLl water bath set to, 2-243-245
INDEX CVII
T TARRAGON INFUSION
tarragon infusion, parametric recipe for, temperature (continued) temperature (continued) texture (continued)
2-310 "danger zone," 1-175-179 specific heat and, 1-267-268 of eggs, temperature and, 4-76-77
tart, Onion tart, 5 -261-265 defining, history of, 1-265 spray-drying and, 2-438 of foams, expanding by drying and,
tartar sauce, Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, definition of, 1-264 in steak frying, 3-72-73 2-433
5-143, 145 dry-bulb. See dry-bulb temperature time and freezing and, 1-304, 2-256
tartares, 3-62-69 for drying with warm air, 2-432 bacterial death and, 1-148, 150-151 gelling with hydrocolloids and, 4-124
example recipes for, 3-65-68 egg textures and, 4-76-77 noroviruses and, 1154 holding at target temperature and,
tartaric acid emulsifier solubility and, 4 -203 for vacuum packing, 2-214 2-242, 247-248
as acidifier, 2-314 for espresso-brewing, 4-372, 374 viscosity and, 4-6 hydrocolloid-texture combinations,
for cold gels, parametric recipe for, skill of choosing, 4-385 wet-bulb. See wet-bulb temperature overview of, 4VII
4-140 factors in, 415 for wine storage, 4-345-346 marinades and, 3-190
for set foams, parametric recipe for, for fat incorporation into sausage, for wok burners, 252 oven humidity and, 2-153
4-288-289 grinding and, 3-224 "The Ten Commandments of Nouvelle of pasta dough, 3-378
tastants FDA Food Code on, 1-174 Cuisine," 1-26, 27 of plant foods, modifying, 3-374-401
ethanol for extraction of, 2-320 fermented sausage-making and, tender cuts of meat progressive smoking and, 2148
Maillard reaction and, 2-268 3-246 collagen and, 3-10, 70, 76,81 searing after so us vide cooking and,
taste buds flavor of cooked meat and seafood cooking so us vide 2-268
research on, 4341 and, 3-88-89 best bets for, 3 -96 smoking and, 2-138, 140, 141, 143
sour-sensing, carbonation taste and, food safety rules based solely on, example recipes for, 3-97-98 sous vide preparation and, 2195,
2-465 1-174 parametric recipes for, 396 197,198
taste testing food safety rules on, 1-169 medium-tender, from primal cuts, sterilization for canning and, 276
of confit, 2 -129 fourth-power re lationship of radiant 3-44 thawing and, 1-313
ratings and gold medals for wine heat to, 1-285-286, 287 muscles and, 3 6 vacuum packing and, 2-213, 221
and, 4-338-339 for freeze-drying, 3-365 contraction of, 38-9 water bath hotter than target
science of, 2-299 freezing point and. See freezing plated-dish recipes for, 5 -3-39 temperature and, 2-245
triangle test for, 2-129, 4-334 point very tender, from primal cuts, 3 -44 Thai chicken sausage, parametric recipe
how to set up, 4-336 for gelatin melting, 4-67-68 tender cuts of poultry for, 3-236-237
of wine, 4-330, 332, 334 for gelatinization, 422 cooking sous vide Thai Crab Miang plated-dish recipe,
Taubes, Gary, 1-236 glass-transition, in freeze-drying, example recipes for, 3-100-101 5-189-191
TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole), 4-348, 1-329, 2 -44, 444 parametric recipes for, 399 Thai stock, parametric recipe for,
349 grinding fat to incorporate into Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 2-296-297
TDS (total dissolved solids), brewing sausage and, 3-224 3-100-101 Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 433
control chart on, 4-367-368 for grinding meat, 3-230 tender fish, cooking sous vide, thawing
tea heat and, 1-264-271 parametric recipe for, 3 -102 cooking directly from frozen vs.,
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 4-291 for heat-shocking, 3358 tender greens, freeze-drying, 1-313, 2-258, 262, 263
hot and cold, 4-176 holding. See holding temperature parametric recipe for, 2-451 debate on, 1-313
Hot and Cold Tea, 4-176, 182 hydrocolloid hydration and, 4 -38 Tenderay process for dry-aging meat, heat conduction in ice and, 1311
infusion of, parametric recipe for, irreversible changes and, 1-268, 270 3-41,78 strategies for, 2-263
2-310 lower, deep-frying with, 2-122 tenderizers, Jaccard . See Jaccard timing for, 2-264
Techamuanvivit, Pim, Pad Thai recipe, lowering. See chilling; chilling water tenderizers The Curious Cook (McGee), 1-43
3 -385 baths; cook-chill sous vide tenderizing The Theory of theAvant-Garde (Poggioli),
technoemotional cuisine, Adriel on methods; cooling; freezing; with acid, 3-192-193 1-18
Modernist cuisine as, 1-37, 57 refrigeration; refrigerators equipment for, 2-286 thermal conductivity, heat transfer
temperature. See also energyi heatj low- low-temperature cooking and. See blade tenderizing and, 3-51. See efficiency and, 1-277
temperature cookingi radiation low-temperature cooking; target also Jaccard tenderizers thermal death curves
(radiant heat) core temperature for Modernist kitchen, 2-286 for bacteria, 1-149, 150-151
for Act iva bonding, 3 -252 low-temperature steam mode and FDA Food Code time and FDA assumptions on, 1-182-189
bacterial replication rates and, in combi ovens, 2 167 temperature for, 1-176 thermal inactivation curves, for viruses,
1-142-143, 144 in CVap water-vapor oven, 2158, mechanical, of meat, 3-50-51 1-153
during baking, 2-103, 106 159 food safety and, 1-191 thermistor, technology of, 1-269
barbecue sous vide and, 3 -216 ovens using, 2 155 food borne illnesses and, 1-176 thermocouples
blowing on hot food and, physics of, Maillard reaction and, 3-89-90 muscle structure and, 310 offreeze dryers, 2-446
1-288 management of, 1-95 multiple water baths and, 2-247-249 technology and types of, 1-269
of boiling water, 1-318. See also measuring, technology of, 1-269 with penetrating meat tenderizers, for testing pressure-canning process,
boiling point measuring during baking, 2-108 hazards of, 1-176 2-88
carbonated liquids and, 2-464 for meat grinding, 3-230 tenderloin, cooking sous vide, 2248 thermo-irreversible gels
for coffee brewing, 4-364, 368 in Modernist Cuisine recipes, 196 tepid-water baths, thawing using, 2 -263 gel selection and, 4 -70, 73
coffee grind and, 4-376, 378 of oil for deep-frying, 2-116, 122, Terranova decipens, 1-122-123 set foams as, 4-244
coffee roasting and, 4-360-361 123, 127 terrines thermometers
color indicators for, physics of, 1291 for plant food cooking, 3 -286 Compressed Melon Terrine, 3-392 accuracy by type of, 1-269
consistency in results and, 2 111 plant food flavor and, 3-273 Hot Applesauce Terrine, 5-101, 103 accuracy issues with, 1206-207
controlling of, 1-270 resistance to change in, properties terrine de foie gras, Pralus, digital. See digital thermometers
conversion tables, 5-XXXIV-XXXV of, 1-267 Troisgros and, 1-41, 42 infrared, 1-269,2-286
cooked meat and seafood flavor and, scales for, 1-266, 285-286 terroir, wine and, 4322-325 low-temperature cooking and, 1-205
3-88-89 serving tetradecahedron 1 foam geometry as, for Modernist kitchen, 2-286
for cooking, animals' body brewed coffee and, 4 -364 4-246 Thermomix
temperature and, 389 gel selection and, 4 -73 tetrasodium pyrophosphate, myosin dispersing thickeners with, 4-24, 25
core. See core temperature thickener selection and, 4 -14-15 extraction for sausage and, 3 223 hydrating thickeners with, 4-26
critical for slicing raw meat, 350 Texturas, sources of, 135 thermo-reversible gels
bacterial replication rates and, for smoking, 2-132, 140-141,3-208, texture gel selection and, 4-70, 73
1-142-143 211 cook-chill sous vide method and, methylcellulose for, 4-127
for freeze-drying, science of, 2-453 chemistry of, 2-135 2-252 thermos bottles, for sous vide cooking,
freeze-drying and, 2-444, 446 sous vide cooking and, 2-230-231 deep-frying and, 2 -122, 124, 125, 127 2-241
cv Ill INDE X
TROTTER, CHARLIE T
time tools. See also specific tools traditional cooking (continued)
thermostats
for brining, 3-156 classic, 2-287 panfrying a Ia plancha and, 2-36-43
calibration of, 2-112
FDA Food Code omission from cutting, for frying fruits and potroasting and stewing and,
of conventional ovens, 2-111
standards of, 1-174 vegetables, 3-326-327 2-92-99
of so us vide cookers, 2-230-231
for plant food cooking, 3-286 for emulsions, 4-208 roasting and, 2-28-35
thick foams, 4-278-287
power as unit of, 1-272-273 handy special-purpose, 2285 sauteing and, 244-47
best bets for, 4-278
temperature and inexpensive but valuable, 2-286 smoking and, 2-132-149
example recipes for, 4-280-287,
bacterial death and, 1-148, 150-151 for meat chopping, grinding, or steaming and, 2-70-73
5-193
FDA Food Code errors in, 1-183 cutting, 3230- 233 stir-frying and, 2-48-57
parametric recipe for, 4-278-279
noroviruses and, 1154 must-have, 2-284 traditional plant foods,
thick food
tinctures technology and, 2-283, 286 internationalization of, 3268
cryogenic freezing and, 1-308, 310
best bets for using, 2-325 torches . See blow torching and Traeger smoker, 2-147
frozen, thawing of, 1-311
flavors in, 2-320 blowtorches Tragancanth Importing Company, 4-40
thickened hot and cold liquids,
parametric recipe for, 4-46-47 TMAO (trimethylamine oxide), 3-43, 87 total dissolved solids (TDS), brewing Tramonte, Rick, Trotter and, 169
Toasted Almond Milk, 4-59 control chart on, 4-366-367 trans fat, 1-222, 224, 230-231
Thickened Oil, 4-230
Toasted Garlic Chips, 5-S, 9 Tough, Dana, Modernist raviolo al 'uovo transglutaminase. See also Activa
thickeners, 4-3-63. See also thickening
Toasted Oat Jus, 5-126, 133 of, 4190 as coagulating enzyme, 4 70
dispersing, how to, 424
Toasted Rice Milk, 4 -59 tough cuts of meat description of, 3250-251
emulsion stability and, 4-202, 204
toasting spices, 5-94 collagen and, 3-10-11, 70, 76, 81 gelling with, best bets for, 4-116-117
emulsion viscosity and, 4 -205
Toddy system, for cold-extraction cooking sous vide, best bets for, 3-109 transglutaminase gels, parametric
flavor release and, 4 -10-11
coffee, 4 -370 example recipes for, 3-110, 111, 114 recipe for, 4 -116
foam stabilizing with, 4-245
tofu muscles and, 3 -6 traveler's diarrhea, 1-129
hydrating, how to, 4-26
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 4-121 contraction of, 38-9 trehalose, as bulking agent with spray-
measuring, how to, 4 23
Firm Tofu, 4 -112 parametric recipes for, 3-109 dried powders, 2-442
mouth feel and, 46, 10
Instant Tofu Noodles, 4-172 plated-dish recipes for, 5-41-105 trematodes, 1-123- 124
for oil, 4-13
parametric recipe for, 4104 pressurecooking for quick results, disease caused by, 1-120
proprietary blends, sources of, 4-41
Peanut "Tofu," 4-122 how to, 3-114 liver flukes, 1-123-124
starches as, 4 -20-37
as protein gel, 4 -102 from primal cuts, 3 -44 salmon-poisoning fluke, 1-124
traditional, 47
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, sous vide cooking of, 3-95 trials. See double-blind trials;
viscosity and, 4-3- 4
Sesame, Ponzu, 5-197,202 succulence of, 3-84 randomized clinical trials
technology of measuring, 4 -8
Silken Tofu, 4 -113 tough cuts of poultry, parametric Trials of Hypertension I and II, 1-234
thickening. See also thickeners
Uni with Whipped Tofu and recipes for, 3-108 triangle tests
chemistry of, 4-71
Tapioca, 4-285 tough fish, example recipes for, 3-115 how to set up, 4336
common problems with, 4-27
tofu gels, example recipes for, tough shellfish for taste testing, 2-129
emulsification for, 4-205
4-112-113, 115, 121 best bets for, 3-108 of wine, 4-334
methods for, 4-12-13
Tom Yum Broth, 2-309 example recipes for, 3-112, 113 Trichinella spiralis
modern methods of, 4 -18-19
tomato chips, parametric recipe for, 3328 parametric recipes for, 3-108 contamination of meat by,
of sauces, jus, and glazes, 2-346
tomatoes. See also green tomatoes Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 5-81, 82 1-117-118, 120-122, 179
strategies for, 4 -14-19
as acidifier, 2 314 Toulouse goose, foie gras production in, as flesh-dwelling parasite, 1-174
This, Herve
Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 2-403 3-138 invasive infection by, 1-120-121
biography of, 1-46
Compressed Tomato, 511, IS Tower, Jeremiah, New American misconceptions about, 1179
Chocolate Chantilly recipe, 4 -281
compressing, parametric recipe for, cuisine and, 128 overstated risk of exposure to, 1170
Erice Conferences and, 144, 45
3-390 toxins trichinellosis
food science and, 152
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe bacterial, 1-134-135 common misconceptions about,
hot spring eggs and, 4-75
for, 3 -290 in cassava, 3262 1-117-118, 121-122
liquid nitrogen and, 1-61-62, 65
freezedrying, parametric recipe for, chemistry of, 1-248 deaths due to, 1-113
on molecular gastronomy, 146,
3-372 in distilled essences, 2-391 as disease name, 1119
47-48
heattreating, parametric recipe for, historical cooking and, 16 triglycerides, 1-222
Pickled Quail Eggs recipe, 4-83
Steingarten on, 1-65 3359 natural, 1-249 Trillin, Calvin, 1-28
impregnating, parametric recipe for, organically grown food and, 1-245 trimethylamine oxide (TMAO), 3-43,87
Thomas, Dave, innovations of, 121, 22
3-390 in plants, 3-267 tripe
Thomas, Elizabeth Cawdry, 1-44- 45
introduction and acceptability of, as self-defense, 3-266 characteristics and cooking of,
Thompson, Bradford, Preserved
1-14, 16 in reused deep-frying oil, 2-124, 125 3-141-143
Lemons recipe, 3 -350
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, in seeds, 3-262 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
Thompson, David
4-175 Toxoplasma gondii for, 3-146
miang kham of, 5-189
Thai chicken sausage and, 3-236-237 Pasta Marinara, 3-386 food borne illnesses in U.S. and, as sausage binder, 3-222
pH level and canning method for, 2-76 1-111,126-127 texture of, 3137
thyme, antimicrobial properties of wine
preserving, parametric recipe for, human infections from, 1128 Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock
and, 1-145
3 -348 life cycle of, 1-127 Infusion, 5-253, 254
thyme extract, parametric recipe for,
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with misconceptions about, 1118 triple point
2-326
Strawberry Marinara, 450 psychological conditions due to, 1-127 phase changes and, 1-326
thymol, as antimicrobial compound,
sauces from fresh vs. canned, 3-276 trade, longdistance, civilization and, 17 in phase diagrams, 1-302-303
1-145
Tomato Con fit, 511, 55, 60, 62, 67 trade secrets, history of, 1-76 triple stocks, 2-290
thymus gland, 5-32. See also sweetbreads
Tomato Powder, 3-312 traditional cooking, 22-149 Troisgros,Jean-Ba ptiste, 1-25
characteristics and cooking of, 3140
Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 4-192 baking and, 2-100-113 Troisgros, Michel, 1-25
TIC Gums, 4 -40
Tomato Vinegar Foam, 5-60, 65 boiling and, 2-62-69 Cocoa Nib Curd recipe, 4-105
Tierno, Philip, 1-196, 200
Tomato Water, 2-366, 55, 60 broiling and, 2 -18-27 Troisgros, Pierre and Jean, 125, 41,73
tigernuts
Tomato Whey Broth, 4-49 canning and, 2-74-91 trompe l'oeil dishes, 3-388-401
Horchata (C hufa Milk), 4-59
tongue (animal). See also specific animals covered sauteing and, 2-58-61 Trotter, Charlie
Horchata Foam, 5-239, 244
characteristics and cooking of, grilling and, 2-6-17 fine cuisine in Chicago and, 1-69
tilapia, Microwaved Tilapia with
3-140-141 Myhrvold on writing about, 1-84-85 New American cuisine and, 128, 29
Scallions and Ginger, 3-115
tongue (human), taste regions of, 2-465, myth of, 1-14-16 Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion
Tim Wendleboe, 4 -396, 400
4-341 in oil, 2-114-131 and Water Chestnuts recipe, 3-101
INDEX CIX
T TROUT
trout
blue, science of, 3-40
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
for, 3102
diet and flesh color of, 3-93
Steelhead Trout Con fit with Fennel
turkey (continued)
for, 3-99, 108
fast-twitch vs. slow-twitch muscle in,
3-12
Turkey Wing, 4-33
u
U.K. Institute of Food Research, 1-147
ullage
unsaturated oils, flavor of saturated oils
vs., 2-126
urban populations, civilization and, 1-7
U.S. Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention (CDC)
on E. coli 0157:H7 outbreak of2006,
Salad, 3-106 Turkey & Gravy seasonal flavor, 4-33 wine corks and, 4-344 1-172
Tru, 1-69 Turner, Joseph Mallard William, 1-33 wine storage temperature and, 4345 on foodborne illness, 1-110- 111, 113
truffles turnips ultracold deep freezers, so us vide on foods associated with Salmonella,
Black Truffle Concentrate, 2-427, Braised Turnips with Saffron, S-121, cooking and, 2-259 1-180
5216 123 Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 3-134-135 on Giardia intestinalis infections, 1126
Cromesquis, 3340 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe ultrahigh-pressure homogenizers on peanut or tree nut allergies, 1238
faux for, 3-289, 290, 292 for Modernist kitchen, 2-284 on Toxoplasmagondiiinfections, 1-126
Dacosta on, 2-459 preserving, parametric recipe for, for reducing particle size, 2-398,400 U.S. Code of Federal Regulations,
Frozen White "Truffle," 3-400-401 3348 for wet-grinding, 2-414,422-423 1-179, 181
Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Root Vegetable Jus, S-161, 163 ultrasonic baths U.S. Department of Agriculture. See also
Truffle Puree, 4-114 Root Vegetable Risotto, 3-309 for extracting and infusing flavors, U.S . Food Safety and Inspection
Pecorino with Truffle Honey on in Sauerkraut, 3351 2-251 Service
Cedar, 4 -101 Sous Vide Root Vegetables, S-49, 53 for kitchen hygiene, 1-204 Agricultural Research Service,
preserving freshness of, 2-470 Sous Vide Turnip, S-31, 33 for Modernist kitchen, 2-285 1-180-181
smelling, science of, 4-350 twee zers, surgical, for cooking, 1-197 Ultrasonic Fries, 3-325, S-11 on BSE testing, 1-160
storing with dry ice or gas-flushing 12D drop, in bacteria for sanitizing ultrasonic homogenizers canning guidelines of, 2-79-80
vacuum sealer, 2 471 food, 1-148, 149 breaking down food with, 2-400 on essences for food, 2324
Truffle Jus, 4-53 Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 4143 emulsifying with, 4-208 food and agricultural scientific
Venison Loin Rossini, 3 -98 Tyndall effect, 4-72,203 foam forming with, 4-252 research by, 1-48
truite au bleu, science of, 3-40 freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1333 maximum concentrations of curing
tubers. See also specific tubers wet-grinding with, 2-414-415 salts permitted by, 3-161
gelling agents from, 4-126 Ultra-Sperse 3, thickening with, 4 -22, 30 meat inspection stamp of, 339
Horchata drinks from, 4 -59 parametric recipe for, 4-30 meat-grading system of, 3-35-36, 39
tuiles, Soccarat Tuile, 5239, 245 UltraSperse S, for thick foams, on nitrates and nitrites in cured
tularemia, 1138 parametric recipe for, 4-278-279 foods, 3-160
tulip pattern, for caffe lattes, 4 -395 Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 4-219 Pathogen Modeling Program of, 1-147
Tully's, 4 -398 Ultra-Tex 8, thickening with, 4 -22,30 slaughterhouse in spector
tumblers, vacuum, 2-285, 3-158, parametric recipe for, 4 -3 0 regulations, 3-35
166-167, 175 ultraviolet radiation U.S. Food and Drug Administration
tumbling meat, 3-50-51 heat and emission of, 1287 (FDA)
tuna to kill bacteria, 1-149 on BSE contamination, 1160
Adria's use of intervertebral pads of, prions and, 1-157 consumer web si te on cooking pork,
1-36 for purifying water, 1-335 1-179
albacore, about, S-176 ultraviolet light kits for sterilizing on cooking pork vs. beef, 1-170-171
bigeye, as alternative to bluefin, 355 and, 1-205 on cooking times and temperatures,
blocking, 3-54-55 ultraviolet lotion or powder and, specific, 1-184-185
bluefin. See bluefin tuna hand washing and, 1-201 E. coli O!S7:H7 outbreak of2006
Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier umami brine, parametric recipe for, 3 168 and, 1-172
Butter, 4-220 umami flavor food additives banned by, 1-252
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe MSG and, 3-160 Food Code of. See FDA Food Code
for, 3-102 ripening cured meat or seafood and, on foodborne giardiasis, 1-127
cooking temperature for, 3-83 3-167 on freezing raw foods, time-and-
cutting, 3-52 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 4-183 temperature standards for, 1-186
red and fatty flesh of, biology of, 3-21 uncooked foods. See raw foods; specific on histamine poisoning, 1-139
Tuna and Escolar Checkerboard, foods on killing anisakids, 1-123
S-175, 176 Under Pressure (Keller), 1-73, 83 on killing trichina worms, 1-121
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, on Modernist ingredients, 1254
Marmalade, 3202 4-285 on nisin as food additive, 1144
yellowfin, about, S-176 United Kingdom . See also England on roasting whole-meats roasts, oven
tuna bottarga, in Sea Urchin Bottarga, mad cow disease in, 1-156, 160 temperatures for, 1-186
S-226 Nouvelle cuisine in, 128 on sous vide cooking and storage,
TurboChef microwave and convection Roux and so us vide cooking in, 141 time-and-temperature standards
oven, 2-189 United States for, 1-186
turbot Certified Angus Beef in, 3-39 time-and-temperature curves of, 1187
aging effects on, 3-40 laws of. See also U.S. Food and Drug on Yersinia enterocolitica
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe Administration transmission, 1-117
for, 3-102 on advertising and label health U.S. Food Safety and Inspection
Turbot with Onion and Marrow claims, 1-214 Service (FSIS)
Broth, 3-105 on distillation, 1-94,2-384,391 on chicken cooking times, 1181
turkey on food safety, 1-165, 190 on pork cooking times, 1-179
baked, cutaway illustration of, local, for laboratory equipment, 1-94 Salmonella reduction standards of,
2-104-105 Modernist cuisine in, 167 1-168
brining, parametric recipe for, 3 -172 Nouvelle cuisine in, 127 on thin roasts vs. thick steaks, 1-187
Clostridium perfringens regional barbecue specialties in, U.S. National Institutes of Health, 1-215
contaminated, 1-139, 141 3-218-219 U.S. National Toxicology Program, 1-220
cooked, pink color in, 3-94 unsaturated fat, 1-222 U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, 1-71
ex INDEX
VINDALOO CURRY v
v
vacuoles, of plant foods
vacuum pumps, 2-356
membrane-type
filtration with, 2354, 357
for Modernist kitchen, 2284
vacuum reduction using, 2-380, 381
vacuum red uction
veal stock, parametric recipe for,
2296-298
veal sweetbreads
for, 3146
Crispy Sweetbreads, 3150
vegetables (continued)
mechanics of, 3 279
parametric recipe for, 2424-425
Ramen Vegetables, 2455, 5247
raw, seasonal melanges of, 3294
smoked, example recipe for, 3363
cooking and, 3273
for concentrating flavor, 2379, 411 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango So us Vide Root Vegetables, 549, 53
enzymes and, 3283
freezing clear cubes of ice with, 1333 Powder and Shiitake, 3151 Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 2347
vacuum compression and, 2-213
low-cost, 2380-383 vea l tongue Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 2303
vacuum
with rotary evaporators, 2-391 brining, parametric recipe for, 3-172 Vegetable Coals, 3395
definition of, 2212
technique for, 2381 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe volumetric equivalents for amounts
freezing liquid nitrogen in, 1324
thickening with, 411 for, 3146 of, S.XLIV-XLV
liquid in, physics of, 2215
vacuum tumblers, 2285, 3 -158, Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 549, SO water content of, S.XLI
sealing jars in canning and, 277
166-167, 175 vegetable chips Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables,
vacuum chambers. See also chamber
vacuum-assisted aeration, 2214 example recipes for, 3328-330 5169
sealers
vacuum-assisted cooling fried, best bets for, 3328 vegetarian dishes simulating meats,
foam forming with, 4255, 258, 260,
evaporation and, 1321 parametric recipe for, 3328-329 3388
310-315
phase changes in, 1290 vegetab le ge ls, hot, parametric recipe vegetarianism, 1244
vacuum coffee brewer, 4369
vacuum-assisted drying, 1321, 2215. for, 4 164-165 Velveeta cheese, 4222
vacuum compression
See also vacuum-drying vegetable glue, 3392 venison. See also deer
physics of, 2213
Vacuum-Concentr ated Apple and vegetable jus, parametric recipe for, cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
for plant food cooking, 3286
using chamber sealers, 2-214 Cabbage Juice, 2389 2344-345 for, 396
vacuum-drying, 2 430, 433, 436-437. vegetable sheeters,Japanese, 3326 in Cured Beef Tenderloin "Bresaola
vacuum concentrators, 2285, 379, 380
See also vacuum-assisted drying vegetable slicers, rotary, Japanese, 3327 Style," 3185
vacuum condensers, essential oils and,
vacuum-sealed individual portions, vegetable stock, parametric recipe for, Venison Loin Rossini, 398
2320
2199, 201 2296-297 ventilation hoods, HEPA (High
vacuum desiccators
vacuum-sealing, compressing and vegetables. See also specific vegetables Efficiency Particulate Air), 1205
drying plant foods with, 3365
impregnating produce by, 3390-391 Allium, Maillard reaction and, 390 venting, pressure cookers or pressure
features of, 2-433,436-437
vacuum-set foams, 4310-315 blanching, 2 269 canners, 286-87
foam forming with, 4310
example recipes for, 4311-313 boiling and fixing color of, 263, 66 verbena, Halibut in Verbena Bubble,
Valazza, Luisa Marelli, 128 classification of, 3262 4 156-157
vacuum distillation, 2380. See also
Valdre, Ugo, 144-45 colorectal cancer risk and, 1214-215 Verdun, Pierre, 2412
rotary evaporators
van Leeuwenhoek, Antony, 1-107, 128 compressed and impregnated, verjus
vacuum dryers, 2-430,433, 436 -437
vanilla extract, parametric recipe for, example recipes for, 3395-401 as acidifier, 2314
vacuum evaporation
2326 Compressed Dill Pickled Vegetables, Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 5219,
for concentrating flavor, 2380
vanilla infusion, parametric recipe for, 555, 58 221
for reducing sauces, jus, or glazes,
2310 cooked, seasonal melanges of, 3294 Versawhip, 4244
2346
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 435 cooking sous vide for thick foams, parametric recipe
of wine, 4330
vapor, gas vs., 1300 with fat, best bets for, 3292 for, 4278-279
vacuum filtering, 2286, 4352-358
vapor pressure, 1314, 326 with fat, parametric recipe for, 3-292 very-low-density lipoprotein (VLDL),
description of, 2352, 358,
vaporization, 1314-325 . See also of heat-se nsitive vegetables, best 1226
4353-354
evaporation bets for, 3292 Veyrat, Marc
equipment for, 2286, 356-357
heat of, 1296. See also latent heat of parametric recipe for, 3288, Citrus Air recipe, 4265
how to, 2357
vaporization 289-290, 292 Halibut in Verbena Bubble recipe,
of wine, 4 344
La Varenne, Ecole de, 4322-325 for puree, best bets for, 3 290 4156-157
vacuum frying, 2128
La Varenne, Fran~ois Pierre de until tender, best bets for, 3289 homemade sodas by, 4 239
vacuum inflation, foam forming with,
as chef to French ruling class, 18, 9 covered sauteing of, 258, 60-61 Modernist cuisine and, 164
4252, 254, 310
French cuisine and, 119 cruciferous. See also specific vegetables Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino
vacuum jars, 2286
innovations of, 120 blanching, 2214 recipe, 4275
vacuum ovens, 2-433, 4 -310
variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease cut size for stock, 2290-291 Nouvelle cuisine and individuality
vacuum packing, 2 208-227. See also
(vCJD), 1159, 160, 161 cutting tools for frying, 3 326-327 of, 127, 39-40
sous vide
variety meats. See innards dehydrating TruffieJus recipe, 453
for Activa bonding, 3252
Varvary, 170 best bets for, 3366 vibrator tray, for espresso tamping, 4380
boiling not crushing during, 2213
vat pasteuri zation, 1188 example recipes for, 3368-369, 371 Vibrio cholerae, 1132, 134, 135, 145
chamber sealers for, 2214-221
veal. See also oxtail parametric recipe for, 3366-367 vicinal water
compression in, physics of, 2213
Braised Veal Foreshank, 560, 62 FDA standards and, 1189 drying with warm air and, 2 -432
containers for, 2210-211
Brown Veal Stock, 2300 freeze-drying food drying and, 2428
dehydration and, 1328
cooking sous vide, parametric recipe best bets for, 3372 freeze-drying and, 2444, 447
edge sealers for, 2222-224
for, 396, 109 example recipes for, 3373, 5261 puffing skin and, 3122, 123
freeze-drying and, 2447
primal cuts of, 344 parametric recipe for, 2-451, 3372 Victrola Coffee, 4 375, 396, 398, 401
freezing food and, 2256
Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked heat-sensitive, cooking sous vide vin jaune duJura
freezing in liquid nitrogen after,
Veal Breast with Bulbous best bets for, 3292 Sauce VinJaune, 5113, 116
2258
Vegetables, 3111 parametric recipe for, 3292 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune
ice-brine freezing and, 1310
veal heart, cooking sous vide, heat-shocking, 3358 Sabayon, 3363
impulse sealers for, 2225
parametric recipe for, 3146 microwaving, bes t bets for, 3-311 vinaigrettes, 4230-231
mechanism of action, 2 212
veal knuckle and neck bones, Brown multistep deep-frying of, 2122 Cherry Vinaigrette, 5267, 270
of plant foods, cooking and, 3286
Veal Stock, 2300 plated-dish recipes for, 5259-275, Invincible Vinaigrette, 4231
rigid containers for, 2226-227
veal liver, cooking sous vide, parametric 281-283 Mustard Vinaigrette, 4231
of sausage mix before stuffing, 3227,
recipe for, 3146 preserving, best bets for, 3348 Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce
230
veal marrowbones purees of Vinaigrette, 5181, 183
searing before, 2268
Bone Marrow Custard, 560, 63 best bets for, 2425 Vinay,Jean-Paul, as elBulli chef, 133, 34
of truffles, 2471
Turbot with Onion and Marrow example recipes for, 2426-427, Vindaloo Curry, 590. See also Goan
uses of, 2208-209
Broth, 3105 55,216 Curry
vacuum pressure, 2-391,447
INDEX CXI
v VINEGAR
vinegar
as acidifier, 2-314,315
eggs marinated in, 475
Elder Flower Vinegar, 2-315
Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 5-125, 128
osmanthus, 5-172
volatiles
evaporated, wineglass shapes and,
4-325
in roasted coffee, 4-361
vacuum-drying and removal of,
w
wafers
water (continued)
quality of, 1-335
for espresso, 4 -384
in raw foods, weight of, 3-79, 83
in rehydrated freeze-d ried foods,
2-433 dehydrating formula for, 3-367 3-365
Oysters with Mignonette Air, 4-265 volume Sweet Pea Wafer, 3371 rotary evaporator mix of ethanol
production process for, 1-256 equivalents for amounts of typical Wagyu beef and, 2-384, 390
Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion foods, SXLIV-XLV calpastatin in Brahman cattle vs., sausage binding and, 3-223
and Water Chestnuts, 3-101 surface area ratio to, 2288 3-76 sausage grinding and, 3-230
Seaweed Vinegar, 2-315 Vongerichten,Jean-Georges marbling in, 3-19, 36 in skin, 3 -116
Sherry Gel Cube, 5-267, 270 eating experience and career of, 1-49 richness of, 5-57 as solvent, 1-330-333
vinegar-coagulated egg and, Green Asparagus and Morels with shimofuri, fat content of, 384 sublimation of, 1-326-329
parametric recipe for, 4-82 Asparagus Jus recipe, 2-341 Wakuda, Tetsuya, Steel head Trout supercool, how to, 1312
virions, 1154 homemade sodas by, 4 -239 Con fit with Fennel Salad recipe, 3-106 thawing and, 1-311, 313
virtual cooking experiments. See molten chocolate cake by, 1-15 Walnut Clam Marmalade, 5-229, 230 unsafe for drinking, 1-110, 129
computer simulation models New International cuisine and, 130, Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, vaporization of, 1-314-325
viruses, 1-152-156 52 4-53 vicinal
alcohol sanitizers and, 1-200 restaurants of, 131 Warner, Ezra, 275 drying with warm air and, 2-432
as food borne pathogens, 1-109, Ill, Spiced Chili Oil recipe, 2-330 Warner, K. F., 3-77 food drying and, 2-428
113 Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Warner-Bratzler tenderometer, science freeze-drying and, 2-444, 447
hepatitis, 1-155 Powder and Shiitake recipe, 3-151 of estimating tenderness with, 3-77 pulling skin and, 3-122, 123
names for, 1-112 Tuna Ribbons with Ginger water, 1-292-335. See also evaporation; viscosity of blood vs., 4-6
noroviruses, 1153- 154 Marmalade recipe, 3-202 humidity; moisture; water activity as viscosity reference, 46
reproduction of, 1-152-153 vegetable juices, oil infusions, and in body, kidneys and volume of, water baths and. See water baths
rotaviruses, 1-155 vinaigrettes of, 135 3-141 wet-curing vs. dry-curing and, 3-160,
spreading, mathematics of, 1-153 Vovito Caffe, 4-396, 401 boiling point of 162
viscometers, 46, 8, 10 Vytorin, heart disease and, 1227 relative humidity and, 2-163 water activity
viscosity vacuum pressure vs ., 2-391 bacterial reproduction and, 1-144
of common liquids, 4 -8 bottled, as pure water, 1-335 equilibrium relative humidity and,
controlling, options for, 4-16 bound, dehydration and, 1-321 2-430
emulsions and, 4-204-205 for brining, 3-158 as free water measure, 2 428
extreme, of solid that drips, 4 -9 carbonated, carbon dioxide and, physics of, 1-307
measuring, technology of, 4 -8 4-254 water and bleach solution
shear forces in fluids and, 45-6 physics of, 1-334 drying with warm air and, 2433
thickeners and, 4-10 changing states of, energy of, for kitchen cleansing, 1-200, 204
selection of, 415 1-300-303 water baths. See also holding
vitamin A, 1235 chemistry of, 1-298 temperature; ice-brine baths; ice-
vitamin C color and texture of cooking plant water baths
as acidifier, 2-314 foods and, 3-274-275 baking using, 2-106
aging braises and pot roasts and, in common foods, 1-294-295 boiling using, 2-63
2-98 condensation of, 1-314-325 boundary layer disruption in, 1-283
browning reaction in plants and, deionized, 1-335 calibrating internal thermometer of,
3-283 espresso-making and, 4-384 2-230
health benefits of, 1-235 hydrating ion-coagulated gels and, chilling
natural vs. synthetic, 1-254-255 4-124, 125 equipment for, 2-285
nitrates in cured meats and, 1143 for plant food cooking, 3-278 technology of, 2-238
to slow plant juice browning, 2-338 deposition of, 1-329 circulation control in, 2-234-235
vitamin E, 1-143, 235 ene'rgy and heating of, 1-300 efficiency of, 1-274
vitamin supplements, debate on, 1235 in ethanol, solubility of, 1-332 egg emulsions and, 4-226
viticulture, 1-7,4-329-331 food content of, 1-294-295 frozen food cooking in, 2-262
Vitis labrusca, 4 -327 free heat transfer coefficient of, 1-283
Vitis vinifera, 4-327, 328-329 as measure of dryness, 2428 holding at specific temperature in,
Vives, Joachim, 4-184 rehydration and, 1-321 2-247-249
vodka freezing. See freezing homemade and improvised,
Buddha's Hand Vodka, 2-389 hard 2-240-241
coffee brewing in, 4-371 dissolved minerals and, 1-335 hot, for blanching, 2 -267
Fines Herbes Extract, 2-327 espresso-making and, 4 -384 hotter than target temperature,
House Bitters, 2-327 hydration of ion-coagulated gels 2-243-247
Modernist Fried Chicken, 3 -337 with,4-124 hydrating thickeners in, 4-26
plant food cooking and, 3-278 for Modernist kitchen, 2-284
hydrogen bonds in alcohol vs., 1-314 multiple
Maillard reaction and, 3-90 at different temperatures, 2244,
phase changes in, 1-290 247
phase diagrams, how to read, how to cook in, 2-248-249
1-302- 303 pasteurizing for storage using,
physics of, Myhrvold on writing 2-249-250
about, 1-84 programmable heating/ chilling and,
in plant foods, 3-273,276,278 2-255
properties and behavior of, 1-296 selection criteria for, 2-236 -237
purification of, reverse osmosis and, for sous vide cooking, 2-198 - 199,
2-397 232,234
purity of, 1-335 at target core temperature, 2-243-247
CXII INDEX
WOMEN'S H EALTH IN ITIATIVE STUDY
weasand meat, as sausage binder, wheat. See also flour wine (continued)
water baths (continued)
3222-223 allergies to, 1238 corked, 4348-350, 349
warm, thawing using, 2-263
weather, winemaking and, 4328-329 thickening with, parametric recipe decanting, 4342-343
water chestnuts, Qllail with Apple-
weeping. See syneresis for, 428 descriptions of, 4 339-340
Vinegar Emulsion and Water
weight loss diets, 1240-241 Wheat Bran Fiber Study, 1215, 217 freeze concentration of, 2396
Chestnuts, 3-101
Weight Watchers, 1241, 242 wheat pasta, parametric recipe for, gold medals for, 4338-339
Water Cube, at Beijing National
weighting agents, emulsion stability 3381 grape varieties and, 4326-328
Aquatics Center, 4246
and,4204 wheat starch, 420, 28 great, factors in, 4322-332
water faucet handles 1 personal hygiene
weights whey protein isolate hyperdecanting, 4343
and, 1200
calibrated, for pressure canning, foaming and, 5187 labels, 4351
water softeners, ion-exchange filters as,
286-87 for froths, parametric recipe for, for marinating, 3195
1335
conversion tables, 5XXXVII 4264 names, rules, and laws of, 4331-332
water vapor. See also evaporation;
and measures, 194-95 Whipped Butter, 4 286 pairing, 4350, 352, 5109
humidity; latent heat of vaporization
scales for measuring Whipped Cheese, 4272 as preserved plant food, 3346
in air, 1319-321, 325
digital. See digital scales Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4292 production process for, 1256
in deep-frying, 2115, 116-117,
laboratory, 4 23 whipping siphons ratings of, 4 338-339
118-119, 125
Wei!, Roman, 4339, 340 for cold foams, 4245 red, resveratrol in, 1228
freeze-drying and, 2444
cutaway illustration of, 4261 reverse osmosis in making, 2-397
in shallow frying, 2127-128 Weiss, John, 4383
Weiss Distribution Technique (WDT), to foam batter on food for frying, reviews of, goals for, 4340
vacuum reduction and, 2-380
for grooming espresso, 4383 3316 seasoning with, 2317
watercress
Wendleboe, Tim, 4 396, 400 foam forming with, 4252, 255, 258 storing, 4345-348
Westinghouse, Tenderay process for for Modernist kitchen, 2286 taste and flavor myths about, 4341
for, 3290
dry-aging meat of, 341, 78 molding sausage with, 3241 tasting, 4 334-353
Creamed Watercress, 2-426, 55
wet cures, basic, parametric recipe for, nitrous oxide used in, 4-256 sensory science of, 433 7
Waterhouse, Andrew, 4349
3169 whisks terroir and, 4322-325
water-in-gas (WIG) emulsions, 4 243
emulsifying with, 4206, 208 underground cellars for, physics of,
water-in-oil (WIO) emulsion, 4199, wet process, for coffee, 4358
Wet Whisker, 4398 foam forming with, 4 252, 255,258, 4345
203
wet-aging meat, 3-41 259 unfinished bottles of, 4 346-348
water-in-oil-in-wa ter (WIOIW)
wet-bulb temperature frothing milk for espresso with, 4391 vacuum packing and, 2213
emulsion, 4199
as baking temperature, 2103, 106, White, Marco Pierre, 1-28 viscosity of, 4353
watermelon
107, 112 white abalone, about, 5203 viticulture and, 4329-331
compressing, parametric recipe for,
barbecue stall and, 3212 white asparagus, Sous Vide White weather and climate, and, 4328-329
3390
basting and, 2103 Asparagus, 5147, 149 Tl~e Wine Advocate, 4 330, 338
impregnating, parametric recipe for,
for beer can chicken, 2109 white cabbage, Sous Vide and Pressure- Wine Aroma Wheel, 4339
3390
braising in ovens and, 2 -96 Cooked Veal Breast with Bulbous Wine Business Monthly, 4338
smoking, parametric recipe for,
in CVap water-vapor oven, Vegetables, 3111 wine cellars, underground, physics of,
3362
2158-159, 165 White Coleslaw, 567, 72 4345
Watermelon Bulgogi plated-dish
dry-bulb temperature vs., 296, 102, White Grape Syrup, 4 52 wine "improvement" devices, 4 343
recipe, 5285-287
106, 112 white hot, 1287 Wine Spectator, 4 348
Watermelon Meat, 3394, 5285
drying and, 2431 White Lily flour, 513, 77 wineglasses
Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 5285,
drying stages in baking and, white meat legs or tears on inside of, 4353
286
2106-108 in chickens and turkeys, 312 shape of, evaporated volatiles and,
watermelon chips
evaporative cooling and, 2155 in chickens vs. ducks, 316-17 4325
pot-roasting in ovens and, 2-96 meat color and, 312-15 winemaking, 17, 4329-331
Watermelon Chips, 3328
on psychrometric charts, how to White Stock, 2297 winter squash. See also specific types of
Waters, Alice
read, 1323 white tea infusion, parametric recipe winter squash
New American cuisine and, 128-29
in Rational combi oven, 2164-165 for, 2310 cooking sous vide, parametric recipe
Razor Clam with Sauce Verte recipe,
relative humidity and, 1322 white wine. See specific types of wine for, 3289, 290
3112
for smoking, 3208, 211 whitefish, cold-smoking, parametric puree of, parametric recipe for, 2-425
on Slow Food, 123
wet-curing recipe for, 3210 Root Vegetable Risotto, 3309
water-vapor ovens
best bets for, 3169 "Why Most Published Research WIO (water-in-oil) emulsion, 4199, 203
baking using, 2106
equilibrium method for, 3162, 165 Findings Are False" (Ionnadis), 1220 Woese, Carl, 1130
cooking modes of, 2155-156
howto,3170- 171 Wickens, Robin, 171 wok burners, 252, 56-57, 287
CVap. See CVap water-vapor ovens
for food preservation, 3152 wild boar Wok-Fried Malaysian Vegetables, 5167,
heat and humidity control in,
high-concentration method for, E. coli 0 157:H7 outbreak of2006 169
2158-159
3171 and, 1172 woks. See also stir-frying
invention of, 2-154
osmosis and, 3154 Trichinella and, 1120, 122 bao technique with, 254, 55
salinity for, 3160 wild rice, puffed, parametric recipe for, chao technique with, 256-57
pot-roasting using, 296
speeding by injection or vacuum, 4302 glowing hot, physics of, 1287
for sous vide cooking, 2232, 239,
how to, 3174- 175 wild wood violets, Blossom Salad, 5171, heat transfer in, 2-48
243
wet-grinding, 2412-427 172 sauteing using, 245
water content of heated air in, 2- 153
with colloid mills, 2-413-414, Wiltshire tank cure, parametric recipe seasoning, 253
Watson, Hugh, 339
416-419 for, 3169 Wolfert, Paula, Duck Leg Confit with
Watt, James, 1272
equipment for, 2412-414 wind chill factor, convection and, 1-283 Pommes Sarladaises recipe, 3178
wattles, preparation of, 3122
with Pacojet, 2407 wine, 4316-353. See also specific types of Wolke, Robert L ., 144
watts, 1272-273, 210
with rotor-stator homogenizers, wine The Woman Who Thinks Like a Cow, 336
wavelength, of microwaves, 2-182
2413, 420-421 alcohol percentage in, 1330 Women's Health Initiative study
waxy corn, thickening with, 4-20, 28
with ultrahigh-pressure antimicrobial properties of oregano on dietary fat and cancer, 1233
parametric recipe for, 4 -28
homogenizers, 2422-423 or thyme and, 1145 on dietary fat and heart disease,
wd-50. See Dufresne, Wylie
with ultrasonic homogenizers, aroma kit and, technology of, 4 348 1229
WDT (Weiss Distribution Technique),
2414- 415 cheap vs. expensive, 4 340, 342 on dietary fiber and colon cancer,
for grooming espresso, 4383
W IG (water-in-gas) emulsions, 4 243 closures, 4344-345 1217, 219, 220
Weaire, Denis, 4 -246
color and flavor of, 4334-335, 338 on multivitamins, 1235
Weaire-Phelan structure, 4246
INDEX CXIII
WOMEN'S HEALTHY EATING AND LI VING TR IAL
Women's Healthy Eating and Living

trial, 1-233
Wondra, thickening with, 4-22, 30
X y z
wood xanthan gum Yakitori, 3201 Zhu,Johnny, ramen cups developed by,
for smoking for bubbles and froths, parametric yeast 5-247
choices in, and myths of, 2-145 recipe for, 4-264 corked wine and, 4350 Zhu, Mrs., Microwaved Tilapia with
cultural importance of, 2-136 for cold gels, parametric recipe for, on ripening cured meat or seafood, Scallions and Ginger recipe, 3-115
soaked, for smoking, 2-145 4140 3-173 Zichichi, Antonino, Erice Conferences
wetting for smoking, cautions controlling syneresis with, 417 yellow squash, cooking so us vide, and, 1-44, 45
against, 2141, 143 for edible films, parametric recipe parametric recipe for, 3 -289 zinc, health benefits of, 1-235
wood stoves, 1-286 for, 460 yellow wax beans, Fresh Bean Salad, Zinfandel, history of sleuthing out, 4-326
wood-fired ovens, 2-26-27, 33 as emulsion stabilizer, 4215 5-85,87 Ziryab, 110
World Health Organization, 1-228, 240 for fluid gels, parametric recipe for, Yersinia enterocolitica, 1117, 134, 145 Zoecklein, Bruce W., 4334
worms. See parasitic worms 4-177 yogurt Zoka cafe, 4-398
worst-case scenarios, food safety rules as foam stabilizer, 4257 Activa used in, 3-251 zucchini
and, 1-168-169 gluten-free bread and, 3-376 Banana Yogurt, 5-98 cooking so us vide, parametric recipe
W/ 0 / W (water-in-oil-in-water) in heavy cream, 4 -102 Dannon for, 3-289, 292
emulsion, 4199 for hot fruit gels, parametric recipe for American tastes, 1-20-21 preserving, parametric recipe for,
Wrangham, Richard, 1-6, 3-269 for, 4-165 as fast, ready-to-eat food, 1-22-23 3-348
for hot gels, parametric recipe for, fermentation and, 1-134 Zucchini Blossom Beignet, 5-151, 153
4 -160 fruit-on-the-bottom , 1-20-21
hydration of, 4 -38 for marinating, 3-190, 198
interactions with other thickeners, Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 4-292
4-44-45 Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato
for light foams, parametric recipe Chips, 4 -287
for, 4-270 Young, Chris, 185
myriad uses of, 4-40 yuba, 5-205
natural sources for, 1-253, 257 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu
product guide for, 4 -IV-V with Yuba and Enoki, 5197, 203
properties and uses of, 442-43 Green Pea Yuba, 4115
for set foams, parametric recipe for, yuzus
4 -288-289 Uni with Whipped Tofu and
for spherification, parametric recipe Tapioca, 4 -285
for, 4187 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 3356
for thick foams, parametric recipe
for, 4-278-279
thickening with, parametric recipe
for, 446, 47
xanthophyll, poultry flesh color and, 3-93
xiao long bao, 5-253
XO Sauce, 4-52
CXIV INDEX

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MOD ERN IST

5 Plated-D ish Recipes

Nath an Myhr vold

The Cooking Lab

Library of Congress Cataloging-in -Publication Data avai lable upon request

The Cooking Lab

CHAPTER 2: MICROBIOLOGY FOR COOKS 102

CHAPTER 3: FOOD SAFETY 162

CHAPTER 4: FOOD AND HEALTH 208

CHAPTER 5: HEAT AND ENERGY 260

CHAPTER 6: THE PHYSICS OF FOOD AND WATER 292

Page references of the form 4381 refer to volume 4, page 381

CHAPTER 7: TRADITIONAL COOKING 2

CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 150

CHAPTER 9: COOKING SOUS VIDE 192

CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 280

CHAPTER 14: GELS 64

CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 196

CHAPTER 16: FOAMS 240

CHAPTER 17: WINE 316

CHAPTER 18: COFFEE 354

VOLUME 5: PLATED-DISH RECIPES

CHAPTER 21: POULTRY 106

CHAPTER 22: FISH 140

CHAPTER 23: SHELLFISH 178

CHAPTER 24: EGGS 208

CHAPTER 25: STARCHES 222

CHAPTER 26: FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 258

PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS IV

viii VOLUME 5 PLATED-DISH RECIPES

ABOU T T HE REC I PES ix

X VOLUM E 5 PLATED D ISH REC I PES

Sous Vide M ussels IOmin )min IS mill' 450g

attention, we also indicate the amount of hands-on kitchen time

may be found instead in other parts of the book, in which case a

dressing, and garnishing in the few minutes before it is served. To

ABOUT THE RECIPES xi

x ii VOLUME 5 PLATED - DI SH REC I PES

ABOUT T HE RECIP ES x iii

BEEF RIB STEAK 5

MUSHROOM SWISS BURGER 11

AUTUMN HARVEST PORK ROAST 17

RACK OF LAMB WITH GARLIC 25

YI ELD: four portions

COMPONENT PREP COOK FIN ISH QUANTITY

Tomato Water lOmin 1 h* 40g

Brown BeefJus 45min 4h 100 g

Aged Rare BeefJus lSmin 4h* 10min 200g

Shiitake Marmalade 20min 20 min and 3 h* 30 s 30g

Sous Vide Beef Rib Steak Smin 55 min 800g

Pot ato Puree 15 min and 1 h* 3Smin 700g

Suet Mousseline 20min 20min 10min 100 g

Salt Gel 2min Smin 20g

Toasted Garlic Chips Smin 20min 12

Green peppercorns (fresh) 12

Wild watercress leaves 12

AGED RARE BEEF JUS Yields250 g

6 VOLUME 5 PLAHDDISH RECIPES

SHIITAKE MARMALADE Yieldsl50 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

SOUS VIDE BEEF RIB STEAK Yields800 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Grain mustard, optional 30g 20% @ Reserve individually.

SUET MOUSSELINE Yields300 g