A Comprehensive Guide To Home Improvement

A STEVE MAXWELL BEST PRACTICES GUIDE UPDATED 10/20/2009
! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Price:$29.00
Clear and Simple . . .

Home Improvement Information
You Can Use
Volume 1
A selection from twenty years of illustrated

articles, insights and hands-on know-how from
award-winning home improvement journalist and
carpenter Steve Maxwell
by Steve Maxwe! 2009

455 Bailey Line Road
Evansvi!e, Ontario, Canada
P0P 1E0
705-282-2289, Fax 705-282-0796
email: steve@stevemaxwe!.ca, web: www.stevemaxwe!.ca
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Table of Contents
Section 1! Welcome ........................................................................3
Section 2! Kitchens & Bathrooms ................................................4
Section 3! Decks, Patios & Landscaping......................................13
Section 4! Basements, Foundations & Landscaping...................27
Section 5! Floors, Trim & Interior Finishes.................................39
Section 6! Heating, Air Conditioning & Ventilation..................57
Section 7! Plumbing & Electrical..................................................67
Section 8! Indoor Air Quality........................................................77
Section 9! Energy Eciency & Technologies..............................84
Section 10! Roofs, Attics & Exterior Walls..................................108

Section 11! Windows & Doors......................................................121
Section 12! New Construction......................................................133
Section 13! Sound Control.............................................................147
Section 14! General Home Improvement....................................155

Section 15! Cottages & Vacation Homes.....................................165
Section 16! Tools............................................................................173

Section 17! Woodworking & Wood Finishing.............................196
Section 18! Product Reviews.........................................................205
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Section 1
Welcome!
Thank you very much for buying this first edition of my home improvement how-to
article compilation. Since 1988 its been my privilege to help people like you make good
things happen in their homes and workshops through my magazine articles, newspaper
stories and live seminars. This ebook contains a 200+ page sampling from the more than
3000 articles Ive written over the last 20 years. It includes as much information as I
could cram into one Acrobat document, while still keeping file size reasonable.
I could have published this book on paper, but digital publication in PDF format offers
real advantages. Production is less costly, distributions easier, you can search for specific
words and topics, and I can constantly update the content for subsequent editions as I
write new articles.
To search for a specific topic, simply type a key word or phrase into the search field of
the Acrobat program. That simple step automatically generates a list that includes every
instance of the word youre looking for. Click on the one you like and itll take you there.
My livelihood depends on helping you with the home improvement and woodworking
issues that matter in your life. Thats why I welcome your input and suggestions. Please
email me any time at steve@stevemaxwell.ca. Although the volume of messages I receive
sometimes prevents individual response, rest assured that each email does get read.
Thanks again for purchasing my publication,
Steve
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Section 2
Kitchens & Bathrooms
Concrete Countertops
I recently spoke to a homeowner in the middle of a major kitchen renovation and he
happened to mention the price of his new solid-surface countertop. Until that
moment Id never seriously considered the possibility that someone might spend
nearly as much on a food preparation surface as I did on my four-wheel drive pick-up
truck. But theres at least one person who did. And as great as his countertop looks, I
cant help but wonder about value for the dollar.
While theres no shortage of beautiful countertop options, the real trick is finding a
beautiful, durable, rock-solid countertop at a price that costs less than its weight in
platinum. And thats why I like the concrete countertop option.
Concrete is actually a poor name for the material involved

because its not correct. Concrete refers to a mixture of
sand, crushed stone and Portland cement, with the stone
being added as a low-cost filler. Trouble is, bits of stone
can mar the finish of a countertop if they remain visible
along the edges of the wooden forms that impart the
countertop's shape. And since you cant see formed
surfaces until the wood has been removed, crushed stone
creates unnecessary risk with no reward, at least as far as
countertops go. Since cost of a stone-free mixture for a
bathroom vanity is a whopping $10, why bother with
Photo: The Taunton Press
stone? The results are just as strong without it, and visual
success more reliable.
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A better option, and the one widely used in the trade, involves the use of a masonry
mix made of 1 part Portland cement with 3 parts sand. Strictly speaking this is
mortar, not concrete, but since nobody ever talks about a mortar countertop, I wont
either. Just remember to make your mixture dry enough to hold together in a pile, as
in the photo. Any wetter than that and your countertop wont cure to full strength.
Perhaps the most challenging part of the concrete countertop equation is

appearance. After all, who wants a countertop that looks like a sidewalk? And
avoiding that fate requires two things: the addition of colour to the surface; and the
sealing of that surface to add depth to the colour and protect against stains.
You've got a couple of colour options to consider. The most common employs
powdered pigments added to the water you'll use to make the mortar. One source of
pigment is Form and Build Supply (800-563-2285; www.formandbuild.com).
Another concrete colouring option involves chemical treatments applied to the

surface after its fully cured. This liquid isnt a dye, but a compound that reacts with
minerals in the concrete. The result is a colour thats slightly mottled and much more
like natural stone than surfaces coloured by dye. Kemiko (903-587-3708;
www.kemiko.com) is a US supplier that ships to Canada.
The aesthetics of concrete countertop colouring and sealing are important enough
that you should consider acquiring experience before tackling the real thing. That:s
why test pads make so much sense. They allow you to proceed with the confidence of
knowing exactly what your finished countertop will look like using a particular
aesthetic strategy. Build three or four 2-inch deep x 12-inch x 12-inch test forms, then
fill them with mortar mix to test your colour strategy. Be sure to apply both colour
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and sealer to these test panels, since full surface treatment is necessary to create a
realistic impression of what youre in for.
Drains easy to install with simple information

You can save substantial money installing your own drain pipes during home
renovations, but that doesnt matter if the drains dont work right. Its not that
success is dicult, its just that simple details matter, beginning with a few tricks for
working with the most popular kind of drain pipe in Canada.
ABS was the acronym for the worlds

easiest to use drain pipe long before it
meant a fancy braking system for your
car. Thats because ABS is the
standard for domestic drain pipes
everywhere. Aside from the fact that
it transmits the sound of flushing
toilets like a public address system, its
hard to knock. ABS is cheap,
lightweight, cuts to length with a
handsaw or electric chopsaw, and joins
together with just a swab of solvent on interlocking fittings. If youre adding a
bathroom, laundry tubs or a new kitchen sink, then hooking up an ABS drain is one
of the easier parts of the job. In fact, with such user-friendly material, you might
mistakenly doubt that there are hidden pitfalls at all. Dont get over-confident.
When youre installing any kind of drain pipes, you need to address four technical
details: pipe size, access for emergency de-clogging work, pipe slope and venting.
Toilets can be connected to 3 inch or 4 inch diameter pipe; sinks and other fixtures
to 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch pipe. But even with proper-sized pipes, blockages can occur.
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Thats why you need to install cleanouts -- Y-shaped pipe sections with removable
covers that let you poke tools into a pipe to clear jam-ups. Build lots of cleanouts into
your system, especially at the beginning and end of pipe runs.
The fact that water runs downhill is one of the easier DIY concepts to understand,
but like all bits of knowledge, this one can get you into trouble if you take it too far.
The correct amount of pipe slope is 1/4-inch down for every 12 inches of horizontal
run. This translates to about half a bubble of a 24-inch carpenters level. Go shallower
than this and youll have drains that empty too slowly. Go steeper and youll end up
with regular accumulations of disgusting, non-liquid bits left high-and-dry in the
drain pipe, because the water rushes away too quickly to carry it along. A retired
plumber I know says that the most common drain clogs hes had to clean in his 40-
year career was caused by drain pipes that slope too steeply, thereby clogging
frequently.
Another crucial feature of drain pipe installation is venting. As water travels down
the pipe, it creates a vacuum in its wake. If theres no way for this vacuum to be
relieved by new air admitted into the system, swooshing sounds will occur in your
sinks, tubs and showers as air is drawn in to neutralize the low pressure. Ultimately
this can allow nasty sewer gases into your home, though theres an easy way to avoid
trouble.
The simplest solution is a remote vent device connected to your new drain pipe. This
is a one-way valve thats spliced into the pipe near the plumbing fixture, as high as
possible. As draining water creates its vacuum, air from the room is sucked into the
remote vent to relieve the suction. The vents one-way valve also prevents smelly
sewer gases from moving backwards into the room. Ive used remote vents in three
situations and theyve worked perfectly for years.
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Many home renovation jobs are easier than they look, and installing ABS drains is
one of them. No, its not glamorous work, but saving money does have an attraction
all its own these days.
Ceramic Tile Shower

I have to admit that every time I step into a ceramic tile shower and turn on the
water, Im jealous. How can any other shower experience compare with the solidity
of the tiles underfoot, the sharp sound of water splashing against hard surfaces, and
the inviting warmth that builds up in the walls and floor after lavishing gallons of hot
water on your body? Ive tried to convince myself that the practicality of my own
fiberglass shower stall makes so much more sense, but somehow that doesnt cut it.
The only consolation I had up until now is that ceramic tile shower stalls are often
risky and troublesome to build for all but the most experienced tradespeople. Thats
why I opted for a serviceable, fiberglass unit when I outfitted the bathroom in my
own house more than 10 years ago. But now, even that solace is lost to me.
Thanks to advances in shower installation supplies, the old threat of leaky, crumbling
ceramic shower stalls is a thing of the past. Even experienced do-it-yourselfers can
complete a first-rate job building a reliable, ceramic tile shower, while professionals
will enjoy speedier installation times. The key has to do with what goes down
underneath your tiles.
Traditionally, the main challenge with ceramic tile shower stalls has always centred
around the diculties of waterproofing. While its easy to find tiles that are
completely waterproof, the grout joints between them are a dierent matter. Even
when coated with sealer, you cant expect 3 mm or 4 mm of porous, site-mixed grout
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to keep water out forever. And unless the tiles and grout are installed over top of a
waterproof, sub-surface membrane, water leakage -- even a little -- will eventually
cause loose tiles and rotten wood. Then theres always the problem of water leakage
around drain outlets.
This is the kind of trouble that master tile setter Werner Schluter sought to solve
when he began to market hardware and accessories designed to improve traditional
ceramic tile installations. The Schluter Shower System is a case in point, and it uses
specialized, synthetic materials to create a waterproof pan and wall system that
readily accepts ceramic tiles. And it even includes a substantial made-in-Canada
component. This isnt the only way foundation for a durable shower, but its one of
the most foolproof.
The base of the Shower System (or pan as its called in the trade) is made of high-
density expanded polystyrene foam and comes in two parts that dovetail together on
the floor as they nestle into a coat of thin-set mortar. This is the part of the system
thats made right here at home for international sales. The pan includes a pre-
punched, central hole to accommodate the drain flange system that comes with the
kit. A third piece of foam forms the 6-inch-high curb that keeps water within the
pan during use.
The Shower System also includes enough synthetic, non-woven material to cover the
inside of the shower stall framework and make it waterproof. Called Kerdi, this
dimpled material goes down over a coating of thinset mortar, waterproofing the
surface.
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Perhaps the best part of the Schluter kit

is the detailed instructional video that
comes on CD-ROM. Its readable on
both Mac and PC computers and it
provides a field-worthy overview of the
installation process. Thats where you
can learn more about various edging
trim oered to make tile installations
more reliable and better looking.
Never installed tiles before but want to try? There are two more excellent resources I
can vouch for personally. The first is a book: Setting Ceramic Tiles by Michael Byrne.
It covers all the traditional tile setting techniques, including detailed information on
cutting and securing ceramics. A more recent product is a pair of videos (also
available on DVD) put out by a guy named Hank The Tile Doctor Visser. One is on
floor installations, and the other covers showers. Its the video equivalent of
following a kind, knowledgeable and patient 40-year veteran of the tile setting trade
while he completes several jobs. You can learn more about the videos at
www.hankthetiledoctor.com or order by fax at 231-275-3116. He even extends a standing
oer to answer technical questions personally by email. Although the videos do come
from the US, they crossed the border easily for me.
Im glad to see tile showers moving ahead in terms of installation ease and reliability.
Ceramic tiles are one of those timeless, classic materials that make for the very best
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homes. The only problem now is the high cost of all that extra hot water people are
going to use because they cant tear themselves away from their great, ceramic tile
shower.
Kitchen & Bathroom Q&As
Bathroom Mold Control

Q: How can I stop recurrent mold growth on our bathroom ceiling? We installed a
90 cubic feet per minute (cfm) fan, plus a window. Weve also painted and repainted
the ceiling with mold resistant paint, but the problem persists.
A: I think you've done all the right things, except for one. Your bathroom fan is
probably too small.At a minimum, a bathroom fan should be able to change all the
air in your bathroom eight or nine times each hour. That means a 100 sq. ft.
bathroom with 8-foot ceilings would require a fan that moves air at a rate of at least
120 cubic feet per minute. Your fan moves air at only 75% of this rate, and that's
probably why your ceiling keeps growing mold.Your current fan cant lower
airborne moisture levels fast enough.
Before you go to the trouble of installing a new fan, test my hypothesis for yourself.
Temporarily boost ventilation with a household fan used in addition to your exhaust
fan. Use it to clear moisture and watch the results. If you do decide to upgrade your
fan, get one that moves lots of air. A model that changes the total volume of
bathroom air 10 or 12 times an hour wouldn't be too much in your case.
Also, it's essential that an exhaust fan be started before showers begin, and continue
operating for 15 or 20 minutes afterwards. Timers, humidistats and motion sensor
controls help make sure exhaust fans are used eectively.
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Fixing a Leaky Shower Stall

Q: Can I salvage my leaky ceramic shower stall? Waters coming through the floor
and appearing on the ceiling below. Should I patch it or completely replace the
shower floor with new concrete?
A: It sounds to me like you need to

reconstruct at least the floor, and
probably the entire shower. If water's
getting through the existing shower
pan, it's putting the integrity of the
underlying floor at risk. While you
could reconstruct the floor in the
traditional way, with mortar, you'll get
durable results much more easily and
quickly if you use a product called
Kerdi-Shower-ST. It's a ready-made shower base made from rigid foam by a company
called Schluter. You can find it at most home-improvement outlets. The pan is cut to
fit, and sloped for drainage. Despite the fact that it's made of foam, this product is
ideal as a base for ceramic tiles. If you do decide to gut your entire shower and start
from scratch, the Kerdi-Shower-ST is designed to work in conjunction with related
components for building the waterproof walls of a shower. Start by building a stud
frame wall on top of the shower base, then covering the frame with cement board
following by a layer of waterproof cloth. The tiles you install should be rated as
vitreous. That means theyve been fired to a high enough temperature to make them
completely waterproof.
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Section 3
Decks, Patios & Landscaping
Verandah Adds Traditional Charm

The old-time, roof-covered open porch, or verandah, is one traditional architectural
feature thats staging a comeback these days. Im a big fan of verandahs, mostly
because I feel good when I'm on one. The practical side of my brain follows along by
pointing out all the technical advantages they oer too. Windows, doors and siding
all last longer when under the protection of a verandah roof. And even the structure
itself will outlive a comparable deck because the roof partially deflects rain and
sunlight, reducing the toll these take on wood and finishing products. Eavestrough-
equipped verandahs are also great at drying up basement leaks, since they typically
shed rain 6 to 8 feet away from the house. Successfully adding a verandah onto your
house (or directing a professional to add one for you) starts with an understanding of
some design and construction basics.
Design Considerations
Does your house have what it takes to sport a traditional verandah? The question is
largely an aesthetic one, since all the necessary parts can be added to any house. The
best place to start your quest for a pleasing design is to search for other houses with
verandahs you like. Most will probably be 1 1/2 or 2 storey homes, but verandahs can
also be added to bungalows too. The two most important visual features of a
verandah are floor width and roof slope. It's easy to make a mess if you get these key
details wrong for your situation, so do your homework. In fact, the issue of
proportions is crucial enough that you should ask permission to measure these
details on houses around your neighbourhood that strike your fancy. The easiest way
to measure roof slope is by setting a 2-foot carpenter's level horizontal on the
verandah rooftop, then measure the distance between its elevated end and the roof 's
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surface. This will give you the amount of slope over a 24-inch span. Simply divide this
number by two to express the slope as a fraction of 12, which is the standard way of
describing roof slope in the trade. Verandah roofs typically drop 3 to 5 inches over a
12-inch horizontal span. You'll also find that verandahs are far narrower than what
you'd expect from an uncovered deck. Dont let this worry you. Six to eight foot-wide
verandahs are typical on homes where a deck twice as wide might otherwise be
installed.
Even after seeing and measuring several verandahs you like, adding one to your house
can still be an aesthetic gamble because you're making such a large visual change to
the structure. There are two ways to eliminate this risk: first, you can arrange to have
a computer-generated 3-D scale image of your house created. Design tools that
produce these eects are becoming more common, but youll still have to search a bit
for someone equipped to help you. A simpler approach is to build a small, scale
model using low-tech materials like cardboard, tape and hot-melt glue. I prefer this
second option because its easy to involve the entire household in the process, and is
especially fun if you let kids in on it. The model needn't be fancy, just a scale version
of the outside of your house made from cereal box cardboard or corrugated box
board. Use your ruler and pretend that each 1/2-inch segment actually represents one
foot of your house. (1 centimetre for each 30 centimetres is a similar scale if you
prefer to work in metric.) A basic model wont take long to build and itll allow you to
experiment with dierent verandah roof slopes and floor widths. The aim is to know
exactly what youre adding to your house visually before any lumber is cut. Its
wonderful to move ahead with the confidence that this exercise inspires.
Construction Details
You'll have to pay more attention to the footings of a verandah than those of a deck,
because the seasonal wood movement that could occur with a poor foundation is
more critical when you're supporting a roof. The best type of verandah footings are
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concrete piers that extend down below the frost line under each roof support post--
48 inches is a safe footing depth in most places. Corrosion-proof metal brackets,
called post saddles, set into the top of these piers when the concrete is still wet will
form an anchor for the 6x6 or 8x8 posts that'll support the roof. Its best to also bolt
these brackets down to the piers after the concrete has cured to help resist the
strong upward force of the wind when it gets under the verandah roof. Dont use pre-
cast concrete deck feet to support a verandah because the downward loads are too
great and they oer no resistance to wind lift.
Verandahs built 60, 70 and 80 years ago typically had a wooden ceiling applied to the
underside of roof rafters, but experience has shown that this can promote rot by
trapping rainwater if it leaks past shingles and flashing. It also adds a lot of expense
in materials and labour. An easier alternative is to frame the roof of your verandah
with standard 2x6's or 2x8's, sporting routed edges to improve their looks. Its
amazing how pretty construction-grade lumber can look when its treated with a
little artistic care. Since the underside of the verandah's roof sheathing remains
visible in this design, it's best to use solid wood planks for the roof deck, rather than
plywood. Pre-finishing the rafters and roof boards before installation will save you
the enormous hassle of overhead painting.
Adding a verandah can darken the inside of your home if its roof shades major
windows. Eliminate this problem by installing skylights in the verandah roof, right
over those important windows.
Grid Paving Systems Growing in Canada

Green grass and trac dont mix. At least not for long they dont. Avoiding the
hassles of seasonal mud, dust and tire-track ruts is why people invented asphalt
driveways and concrete-paved paths, but theres a problem. The world already has
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too much of this stu. And the extreme temperature fluctuations we get here in
Canada make a mess of even the best laid hard surface paving. Its just a matter of
time.
The last thing we need is more cracked concrete and crumbling asphalt, and thats
where a green alternative for high-trac areas comes in. Its a replacement for hard-
surface treatments used on well-traveled areas around your yard, and like many
innovations of this sort, it comes from Europe. In fact, its been used there since the
early 1970s, though the item isnt well known yet in Canada.
One heavy-duty brand thats just made it to this side of the Atlantic is called
GroundSolutions (905-337-9917), though I expect various other brand names will
become mainstream in time. Were on the verge of seeing paving grid technology
become widespread in this country, and for good reason.
Ive examined two variations on the GroundSolutions theme: GS Pro and GS

OnTop. Both are robust grids made of recycled polyethylene, with subtle dierences.
OnTop is designed to be pressed into existing sod without the need for excavation.
Just lay it down and snap the grid segments together.
GS Pro is of slightly heavier construction, and is meant for incorporation into new
gravel or sod surfaces while theyre being built. In both cases the grid sits level with
the surrounding surface, remaining nearly invisible while reinforcing the area
mechanically. The result is a non-paved surface thats much better able to support all
kinds of trac without damage. It can even support regular car movements on
seasonal commercial sod parking lots. The heaviest commercial vehicles are no
problem, either.
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A softer variation of the product -- called

GS Paddock -- is especially designed for use
in high-end horse and cattle paddocks,
training areas and competition venues.
Some of the most prestigious European
equestrian events take place on it. The grid
keeps the soil in place, while providing
good traction and unimpeded drainage that
improves hoof health.
I suspect the most common Canadian applications for paving grids will turn out to
be driveways and parking lots, but there are other uses, too. The system is eective
for erosion control on steep gravel surfaces up to 45 degrees, for riverbank support,
boat docking facilities and golf course paths. The product also reduces storm sewer
loadings by allowing rainwater and spring run-o to percolate slowly down to the
water table, instead of hitting municipal storm drains hard.
The main reason paving grids work is because of an unusual characteristic of grass.
You can do anything you want to blades of grass and the plant remains unharmed.
Thats because the growth centre of grass is slightly below the soil surface, not above
it like on other plants. Paving grids keep trac from damaging the nodule of growth,
allowing the bent and crushed blades of grass to come back quickly after trac
passes over it.
There are only two drawbacks I can see with GroundSolutions. At about $30 per
square meter plus delivery charges for GS OnTop ($36 per sq. meter for GS Pro), the
product isnt cheap. It costs about the same as asphalt. And you do need a fairly flat
17
surface to keep the grid hidden when pressed into existing sod. Its too rigid to follow
small gullies and crowns.
But these issues arent deal-breakers, especially when you imagine what it would be
like if many more driveways, sidewalks, park paths and urban riverbanks were reliably
green, stable and lush instead of grey, cracked and crumbling. What better use could
there be for tonnes of old plastic that might otherwise go to landfill?
Synthetic Lumber Low-Down

Synthetic lumber is a low-maintenance substitute for decks, docks, porches and
gazebos, but most people arent interested at first. Higher prices than wood are
usually the reason why. But things often
change pretty quick after living with
real wood for a while. The scenario

unfolds in surprisingly similar ways:
Homeowner gets new wooden deck.
Homeowner is very pleased with
appearance. Over period of several
years homeowner grows weary of

finishing and refinishing, then regrets ever having built with wood in the first place.
This predictable dynamic is why the biggest interest in composites that I see is
among homeowners with previous -- and not entirely satisfactory -- wooden deck
experience. Got an interest in synthetic lumber? This material isnt perfect, but there
are several reasons to take a closer look.
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While higher prices are the most common reason people choose wood over
composites, direct cost comparisons arent valid. While its true that composites are
more expensive than the most popular types of real wood -- in some cases 300%
more -- youre buying more than just a building material with a 15 to 20 year lifespan.
Youre also buying your way out of all future refinishing hassles associated with real
wood. To be fair, real wood is light in weight, stronger than any current synthetic
alternative, and it looks better than anything else when newly finished in the best
ways. Just dont forget the obvious fact that none of the substantial finishing and
refinishing costs are included in the price.
Theres also the fact that synthetics last longer than wood because they dont rot.
First-generation synthetics installed more than 25 years ago are still going strong.
When you run a cost-per-year analysis, synthetics oer economical performance,

though you do have to pay for all that extended lifespan up front.
At the moment there are three

kinds of synthetics on the
market. The most popular two

are both made of a 50/50 blend
of wood fibres and plastic. These
are called composites, and in the
most environmentally attractive
examples manufacturing
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feedstocks come entirely from post-consumer, recycled sources like shopping bags
and ground up shipping pallets. Composites are used in one of two ways: either as
hollow extrusions (less expensive and lighter weight) or solid lengths (looks and
works more like real wood). Both types come in the same widths and thicknesses as
conventional wood lumber.
Due in part to concerns about wood/plastic composites developing superficial mold

in some situations (See Maintenance Free? on page TK), 100% plastic deck lumber
has begun to appear recently. This is the third type of synthetic on the market, and
its poised to take a larger piece of the pie. Unlike first-generation plastic lumber I
used during the 1980s that was heavy, very expensive, prone to melting when cut with
a saw, and slippery when wet, modern all-plastic lumber is dierent because of the
way its formed. Instead of just solid plastic, current brands include small amounts of
air worked into the extrusions as theyre made. This creates better working
properties and lighter weight.
Regardless of which of the three families of synthetics you choose, none that are
readily available right now can sustain large structural loads. This means that
synthetics can only be used for deck surfaces (not joists, beams or posts), and even
then they must be supported more closely than real wood deck boards.
Modern synthetic lumber cuts, routs and drills just like real wood. That said, there
are some technical issues you need to understand before you can make an informed
decision about which type of synthetic to use, or whether to use synthetics at all.
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Besides cost, the biggest drawback of synthetics is the way they look. The only
person whod tell you that they look as good as freshly finished wood is someone
selling them. While todays best versions dont look bad compared with wood, many
synthetics have, well, quite a synthetic look about them. Hollow composites
generally look the most artificial because of their edges. Since this material is hollow,
you need to apply end caps to hide internal cavities, creating a very non-wood look.
Solid composites, on the other hand,

oer the options of edge routing, drilling
and joinery just like real wood. Todays
best versions also include patterns and
varied colouring that suggests wood
grain. This isnt going to fool anyone, but

even when you know its fake, the overall
eect is more visually pleasing than a
plain, homogenous surface.
Another technical issue that aects appearance is the way deck boards are fastened.
Many hollow composites are designed to work with a proprietary system of hidden
fasteners. Solid synthetics need to be held down like wooden lumber, but theres
something unique to consider.
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When you drive a screw into the top face of synthetic lumber, it usually causes a
berm of displaced plastic to rise all around the hole. This results in a more obvious
(and ugly) pattern of screws than with solid lumber, though there are two ways
around this trouble.
The most attractive option is to use some

kind of invisible fastener system to hold deck
boards invisibly. There are many on the
market and most cost more than seems

reasonable. Almost all brands also slow down
deck-building progress big-time compared
with face-driven screws. That said, the payo
of a substantially better looking deck is worth it for most homeowners.
Another option for hiding screws is something youll have to experiment with.
Depending on the consistency of the solid synthetic boards youre using, its often
possible to tap down the berm around each countersunk screw head with a hammer,
so its flat. This operation usually covers the screw head, hiding it below the surface
almost invisibly. The main drawback with this approach is the way it disrupts any
artificial grain pattern on the surface of synthetic deck boards. A regular pattern of
smooth spots on an otherwise embossed wood grain surface can look fishy.
Another issue to keep in mind is the way plastic-based lumber behaves physically. It
not only expands and contracts substantially with changes in temperature, but its
22
also far less rigid than wood. Proper installations require ample expansion gaps on
both the edges and ends of each board to avoid buckling during hot weather, plus
special attention paid to keeping boards straight as they go down. Your best bet is to
stretch a chalk line to act as a straight edge to guide your initial row of boards, then
eyeball and steer subsequent rows so theyre straight as they go down.
Synthetic lumber is gaining popularity fast. New brands are popping up all the time,
and thats happening for a reason. More and more people are deciding that less work
and more weekend is worth paying a little more money for upfront.
Fastening Edges Invisibly

Regardless of the hidden fastener system you use, its not going to help you along the
outer edge of a deck floor, where the last boards fasten. You cant beat face-driven
screws in this location, though having them remain visible is no good at all when the
rest of your deck is screw-free. This is where an old cabinetmaking technique can
help.
Counterbore holes for edge screws, drive them home, then cover the screw heads
with tapered plugs you make from scraps of synthetic lumber using a special cutter
mounted in a drill press. Custom-grind the sides of a spade bit so it drills a hole thats
just right to hold the plugs firmly as theyre tapped in place flush with the
surrounding deck boards. Daub a little weatherproof glue on the edges of the hole
before driving the plugs home.
23
Extra Insights: Composites vs. Real Wood -- A Quick Comparison

Maintenance Obligations
Composites: No finishing required. Occasional washing as necessary. Some brands
develop mold.
Wood: Finish required to prevent grey, cracked appearance.
Lifespan
Composites: At least 30 years and probably more than 50. Wooden superstructure
will rot before deck boards do.

Wood: 10 to 20 year lifespan (sometimes longer), depending on species and
construction details.
Structural strength:
Wood: excellent, long-term resistance to bending makes wood ideal for deck
surfaces, posts, beams and joists
Composites: fair; only appropriate for deck surfaces
Appearance
Composites: fair to good appearance; not as attractive as well-finished wood when

fresh
Wood: excellent appearance, depending on the product used and quality of
application; even todays best deck finishes need to be reapplied at least every three
years
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Extra Insights: Is it Really Maintenance Free?

Freedom from finishing and refinishing chores is the main selling feature behind
composites, but a completely maintenance-free result is not what all homeowners
experience. A small portion of composites have been known to develop superficial

mold stains under humid conditions or where the deck boards are installed too close
to the soil surface, especially in shady locations. Some composite manufacturers have
even been served with lawsuits dealing with mold-related issues, though mold growth
has not been a widespread problem.
Decks, Patios & Landscaping Q&As
Gazebo Flooring Options

Q: What kind of floor should I install in a gazebo on my lakeside property? Im
thinking of tongue and groove red pine with a urethane finish.
A: There was an old cross-stitch wall hanging at our family cottage when I was a boy,
and though I never understood it then, I do now: A home should be clean enough to
be healthy, and dirty enough to be happy.
You don't want your gazebo to become a source of anguish as a highfalutin floor gets
pummeled by tracked in sand, water and mud. Fancy floors often make a place much
harder to enjoy, and I fear that your current plans will lead to just this kind of
outcome.
A gazebo should be the kind of place where people can walk in and out without
taking o their shoes, free from concern for preservation of the floor. That's why I
25
recommend an easy-going option.Two come to mind: bare wood or a solid

composite decking material. Composites are a blend of wood fibre and recycled
plastic, and they look better than ever these days. My current favourite includes a
surprisingly convincing embossed wood grain surface. Even though your gazebo will
have a roof, sunlight, moisture, dog claws and grit will be harder on your floor than
you might realize. Also, seriously consider some kind of floor design that allows
water to drain away. This way you can swab the floor down when it needs to be
cleaned. Rainwater and snow will certainly come in through the screens, and you
want it to drain as quickly as possible.
Staining Wooden Decks

Q: What are my options for finishing an existing deck? I have a 3-year-old upper deck
and a newer lower deck installed last summer. Both are made from pressure treated
lumber and neither have been stained or finished. Whens the best time to do the
job? Is sanding or pressure washing the best preparation? Specifically what are the
longest lasting deck finishing products?
A: Finishing a deck is a lot like getting married. The results of your choice have very
long-term consequences. And in the case of a deck, you've got to choose one of three
forks in the road. You can leave the wood unfinished, you can apply a product that
adds transparent colour and a surface film, or you can apply an opaque deck finish
that looks a lot like paint.
26
Section 4
Basements, Foundations and Concrete
Crumbling Concrete Repair

The wide temperature swings of the Canadian climate take a harsh toll on concrete.
You dont have to search long to see crumbling sidewalks, flaking outdoor steps and
moldering curbs all over the place. Its ugly and disappointing, especially when the
newest ravages of the most recent winter become apparent. Repairing concrete is
more art than science, and its an imperfect art at best. Not all concrete problems can
be repaired well. But even still, there are tricks to the trade. With an understanding
of the basics youll give yourself every chance for a long lasting repair.
Concrete decays because water is one of the few substances that expands as it
freezes. When autumn rains saturate concrete with moisture, and dropping winter
temperatures then cause this moisture to freeze and expand, concrete crumbles from
internal pressure. Whether it breaks o in flakes, chunks or powder, the root cause is
always the same.
Can it be fixed? Maybe. You cant tell for sure without delving into the problem. Start
work by picking, poking and scraping away everything you can from the crumbling
area. Anything thats loose enough to remove has to go before theres any hope of a
good repair. Get yourself a cold chisel with a 1-inch wide blade, a hammer and safety
glasses, then go to it. But take your time. Diligence is key.
The question of whether to fix your crumbling concrete or replace it with a brand
new sidewalk, front step or curb is one you can now answer. It all depends on what
you find as you remove the decay. Is the whole structure soft, or just the surface
layer? If you can keep chipping and scraping and burrowing into the damaged area
27
without hitting anything solid, then theres probably no point in continuing. You
must get down to something solid before attempting any fix or your patch wont stay
on. Luckily, youll probably find decay restricted to surface layers only. Thats because
this is where most freeze-thaw mischief takes place. Its also because inexperienced
construction workers tend to overwork wet concrete during the forming process,
causing too much water to rise to the surface of the mix. Excess water leads to a
weaker, more porous surface, one thats quite vulnerable to freeze-thaw
deterioration.
Assuming youve got a repairable item, its now time to remove the dust left behind
after rot removal. This is important. A powerful shop vac is great for getting things
surgically clean. You could also wash the area with a blast from your garden hose, but
youd have to wait for it to dry before proceeding. Do whatever it takes to make the
area completely dust-free and dry.
Next to surface preparation, the most important factor for success is the repair
material you choose. There are all kinds of cement repair potions around, but the
best Ive seen, is simple, readily available and inexpensive. Get yourself a bag of
something called mortar mix (a dry combination of sand and cement available at any
building supply yard), and a jug of liquid bonding agent (more on this later). Even
though your original concrete structure was made of sand, cement and crushed
stone, you dont want any gravel in the repair compound you use now. Gravel is used
as an inexpensive filler in the concrete trade, and itll stop you from troweling a
smooth finish in thin areas of your repair zone. You want smooth, stone-free mortar
only.
Whats liquid bonding agent? Its a white, latex product that increases the flexibility
and adhesion of all masonry products. Without it your patch is sure to fall o in
28
short order. Look for names like Bondex and Dural at your hardware store or
building centre. Bonding agent is used in two ways during a repair. First, it replaces
about 1/3 of the water youd normally add to the dry mortar mix while making it into
a buttery paste. This makes the repair slightly flexible, and better able to resist
crumbling. Bonding agent should also be brushed on to the old concrete in the area
of repair, immediately before troweling on new mortar. This assures an excellent
bond between old to new.<
Never mixed patching mortar before? Its easy. Start by dribbling some liquid
bonding agent into a bucket thats half full of dry mortar mix. (If youve got to buy a
new bucket, rubber ones are best for mortar. Their flexibility makes it easy to remove
any hardened mortar that remains.) Use a small masonry trowel to keep mixing while
you add more liquid until all the powder is moist but crumbly. Now switch to water,
mixing and adding it in the same way until the contents of your bucket approaches
the consistency of very thick sour cream. Take it easy here. The dierence between
mortar thats too dry and too wet hinges on a very tiny amount of water. Dribble in
more water very, very slowly and mix a lot. If you overshoot the mark and make a
soupy mess, just add more dry mortar mix and keep stirring. Ideal repair mortar will
look wet in the bucket, but wont have any liquid pooling on its surface. Itll also be
sti enough to hold a slump-free vertical cli about 4 inches high.
Next, brush on a generous coat of liquid bonding agent onto the old concrete, in and
around the repair area you prepped earlier. Let it soak in for a minute, then trowel
some mortar into the cavity. If youre working on a level surface, this will be easy
since gravity is on your side. If the cavity is vertical, however, the mortar could want
to slump out. After youve smoothed the mortar, cover it with damp rags, and keep
the rags wet for at least 24 hours. Mortar hardens by chemical reaction with water. If
the mortar dries out too soon, it wont ever reach full hardness and strength.
29
Concrete Floor Slabs That Last

How many of the concrete floors youve walked on are as solid and attractive as the
day they were poured? Not many can claim this distinction, and thats too bad.
Creating the kind of top quality concrete slab that makes a hundred-year floor isnt
any more dicult than pouring an embarrassing mess that spalls and cracks within a
decade. The dierence is just a little know-how put into practice with care and
understanding.
Concrete isnt one of those things that was better in the good old days. Modern
mixes are outstanding the best the world has ever seen -- with the potential to
make terrific floors when used correctly. And the key to making that happen on your
next project is a three-step process involving site compaction, slab reinforcement and
concrete leveling and finishing. Get these critical issues right and youll have a terrific
concrete slab floor that lasts nearly forever. Even if you plan to contract out your slab
work, you need to know enough to insist that your hired help take the best approach.
This rarely happens automatically.
Packing It In
The first step in building any successful floor slab begins with mechanical
compaction of the base youll be pouring on. Youve got to be sure the stu under
there isnt going to settle, and mechanical help is your only guarantee.
30
When it comes to firming up backfilled

aggregates on your slab site, you need to be
particularly careful. Thats because its not
enough to simply rent a plate vibrator, walk
behind it until the fill is smooth, then call in
the concrete truck. You need to compact
each 8 to 10 layer as it gets dumped in
place. Ordinary, walk-behind compactors
simply dont have enough thump to compact any deeper than that. Yes, it takes more
time this way, but the cost/reward analysis works out in your favour because theres
no easy way to fix an unstable base after the fact. Work a series of overlapping
compactor passes one way, then turn 90 degrees and do it again before adding more
fill, raking it out and repeating.
Ideally, damp fill compacts best, so have some water on hand to wet the area as you
work the machine. If youve got utility lines or other complications coming up
through the fill, consider renting a jumping jack-style compactor in addition to the
plate compactor. This smaller gas-powered machine is ideal for getting into tight
spaces that are impossible to mechanically compact otherwise. You need to be
especially careful about compacted areas bordering on uncompacted fill under the
same slab. Left alone, these areas are crack hot spots.
Call in the Reinforcements

Of all the steps involved in pouring the best concrete floors, mechanical
reinforcement of the slab is the most important because of an inherent weakness in
31
the material itself. While concrete is very strong in compression, its also surprisingly
weak in tension. Thats why youve got to reinforce it. The trouble is, something as
robust as a 6-inch slab of concrete doesnt look like it needs much help. Thats why
the tendency is to under reinforce most slab floors.
For years the standard approach to concrete floor reinforcement has been welded
wire mesh thrown down on the dirt, then pulled up a few inches into the concrete
during the pour. And although this option is cheap, easy and fast, theres one minor
drawback. It doesnt work. Lab studies show that welded wire cant stop cracking to
any significant degree. It simply prevents those cracks from getting too big, too fast.
Yes, you can direct that cracking by slicing a floor slab with a saw a few days after the
pour, but theres a better approach.
The best way to reinforce a concrete slab is with a combination of an elevated 1/2
rebar grid wired together on the slab site before the pour, along with reinforcing
fibres batched into the concrete at the plant. This two-punch combination creates a
terrific anti-crack duo that does the job better than anything else. On small and
medium-sized slabs it even eliminates the need to saw relief gaps in the concrete.
Cracks simply dont happen. A rebar grid of 12 x 16 works well, packing in a useful
amount of steel while still allowing enough room for you to step within squares
without getting your boots caught. For about $40 you can buy a bag of rebar chairs
that speed the task of slab preparation and boost the quality of the finished result.
These come in dierent heights and clip to the rebar itself, holding the steel up into
the concrete as its poured. Besides being neater than jiggling the rebar grid up after
32
part of the concrete is down, plastic chairs also ensure better slab strength by putting
the reinforcing steel exactly where it should be in the slab profile.
Would you pay an extra $10 a yard for

concrete that cracked more than 70%
less frequently? Thats the advantage
oered by synthetic reinforcing fibres
added to concrete at a rate of 1 pound
per cubic yard. These findings were
reported by Dr. Paul Kraai, professor
of engineering at San Jose University.
By comparison Kraai also discovered
that welded wire slab reinforcement used alone reduces cracks by a mere 6.5%
compared with non-reinforced slabs. The only drawback with fibre-reinforced
concrete is the slight hairy appearance of the material when finished. Although this
can reduce surface quality somewhat, the visible fibres do wear o quickly on a floor
surface.
Leveling and Finishing

Theres no mystery to smoothing concrete after its poured into the forms that make
up your floor. A straight, 12-foot long piece of 2x10 makes a great screed for leveling
the concrete as it comes out of the truck, though theres a snag. Since most floors are
wider than 12 feet, you have to practice a little ingenuity to get the kind of perfectly
flat and level base you need for a finely finished slab in more than a single pass. And
thats where a nice, straight piece of 1 1/2 or 2 diameter steel pipe comes in.
33
Any welding shop can make up a cradle for

supporting leveling pipes that break up your
slab into manageable 10-foot wide sections. A
couple of feet of 5/8 rebar with some angle
iron welded to the top does the trick. Simply
pound these suppor ts down into your
compacted slab every six or eight feet until it
holds the top of the pipe at precisely the same
level as the surrounding formwork. A laser
level is the ideal tool for guiding the alignment
of screeding pipes, but a water level works
well, too. Dont trust a hand-held bubble level
to guide pipe height, though. Theyre simply
not accurate enough over such long distances.
Concrete finishing is a trade in itself, but it doesnt take special knowledge to finish a
basic floor adequately. Shortly after the new concrete has been screeded flat and
leveled with a long-handled bull float, water will rise to the surface. Over the course
of the next two to six hours (depending on temperature) this water will evaporate as
the concrete begins to cure. Only after this has happened can you walk gingerly on
the slab in sneakers as the finishing process really begins.
For a rough, no-slip floor surface, a push-broom dragged across the semi-hard slab
creates the standard, sidewalk-grade finish. If youre planning to coat your floor with
34
paint or epoxy, consider the sort of smooth finish that

a power trowel delivers. The gas engine of this walk-
behind power tool propels angled blades that smooth
the concrete in a circular pattern. The more passes you
complete, the smoother the results get.
Modern concrete oers a huge potential in all kinds of

building applications, and heavy-duty floors are one
area where this material will always remain king.
Building your slab the right way, using todays top tools
and techniques, is one of the best ways to start a project that continues to say good
things about you for decades to come.
Extra Insights: The Warm Slab

Concrete floor slabs are often used as part of heated structures and that means they
need to be insulated, especially when in-floor heating systems are part of the mix.
The rule of thumb for concrete floors that include radiant heating features is simple:
insulation levels below the floor need to be five times higher than that of the
concrete slab itself. Since a typical concrete floor slab comes in at about R-2
(including floor coverings), this translates into 2 of foam (delivering R-10 in total)
required underneath the slab. You can boost the eectiveness of this insulation by
choosing foam with shiplapped edges, then lay them down with a bead of expanding
polyurethane foam applied to all joints. A layer of radiant barrier foil insulation
applied on top of the foam adds another layer of energy eciency to the heated floor
installation.
35
Basement, Foundations and Concrete Q&As
Waterproofing a Basement Cold Room

Q: How can we stop water from seeping through the walls of the cold room built
underneath our front steps? Weve parged and painted inside several times with
concrete oil-based paint, but nothing works. The room has become a messy
combination of peeling paint, leeching lime and mold. Im determined to rectify
this scary situation, but how?
A: If it's any consolation, you have a pretty common problem. It may be necessary to
have the soil dug out around the foundation and extensive work done to stop the
water, but before you go to this kind of massive trouble and expense, I have a
suggestion.
According to Consumer Reports testing, a product called Drylok is a very eective

waterproofer for use inside masonry walls. It tested far better than anything else, so
dont be discouraged by your lack of previous success with paint. From what Ive
seen, I expect Drylok will solve your problem. You do need to get back to bare
masonry before applying it, though. You'll also need to put the product on when the
concrete isn't oozing water. Lots of places sell Drylok, though many store clerks
don't realize it. Ask them to do a computer search before they dismiss your request.
Assessing Basements and Sump Pumps in Resale Homes

Q: Is it wise to buy an investment house that lacks a full basement? Also, should I
think twice about buying a house with a sump pump?
A: Basements were originally developed in northern climates to allow frost-proof

storage of food. Houses themselves regularly dropped below freezing indoors at night
36
during winter in the good old days, but the basement stayed frost-free even without
supplemental heat. This tradition of basements continues today because it oers
extra space.
Older homes built with crawl spaces or rooms without basements supported slightly
above the ground often have very cold floors. Absence of a basement can also
indicate an insucient foundation that can heave seasonally with frost. These are
the reasons I wouldnt buy an older home that has no basement.
That said, modern slab-on-grade construction (concrete poured at ground level) has
no basement, yet can function very well. If the floor is insulated with foam as it rests
against the earth, the structure can oer excellent performance.
As for the presence of a sump pump, it means two things: first that the basement
does have water trying to get in (not all basements do). And second, someday, when
the pump fails or the power goes o, water could leak into the basement. The
presence of a sump pump is not ideal, but it's not necessarily a deal breaker, either.
I'd consider it a reflection of a potential water problem that's being held at bay with
electricity.
Drop Ceilings Necessary in Basements?

Q: Is it necessary to install a drop ceiling in the basement Im finishing? Some have
advised me against drywall because it blocks access to pipes and wires. Trouble is, our
basement is already pretty low. A drop ceiling would steal more precious headroom
than drywall.
A: I'd go with drywall. Think of it this way: How much access to pipes and wires does
drywall restrict in the rest of your house? Quite a bit, yet it's not an issue. I think
37
you'll find the same holds true in the basement. The main reason drop ceilings are
popular in basement renos is that they can easily span across pipes, ducts, beams and
other obstructions. But if these things arent an issue where youre finishing, drywall
is definitely the way to go.
Basement Floor Insulation

Q: Whats the best way to warm a basement floor?
A: When the underside of a floor is inaccessible (as with a basement), the only way to
conveniently warm it up is by adding insulation on top. And for this job, extruded
polystyrene foam board is one of several choices. The beauty of this material is that
its dense enough to support a new plywood subfloor, without the need for wooden
support strips resting on the old floor below.
Extruded polystyrene has an insulating value of R-5 per inch, making a 1-inch to 2-
inch layer practical for floor upgrades. As each sheet goes down, squirt expanding
foam between the sheets, then put plywood over top. Drill screws through the wood
and foam, then into the masonry to accept Tapcon screws. They thread directly into
the concrete without the need for anchors. sub-floor. Although youll find the new
floor rock solid underfoot, Id hesitate to install ceramic tiles over just one layer of
the new plywood. Two layers -- laid with overlapping joints -- will create a more rigid
surface, eliminating the possibility of cracked tiles later.
38
Section 5
Floors, Trim & Interior Finishes
Ceramic Tiles Still a Premium Choice

Even though there are many more floor covering options today than when your
parents were planning home renovations around a young family, the old standbys are
still among the best. Take ceramic tiles, for instance. Theyre durable, beautiful and
have a heritage that few other choices can match. Another plus is the fact that any
serious do-it-yourselfer can install them. But whether you want to take on the job
personally or hire it out with confidence, knowledge is key to good results. This is
something youll hear from me again and again. The people I see who experience the
most renovation grief are those who go into the process technically blind. You simply
cannot rely exclusively on the recommendations of others without also
understanding the technicalities behind them.
Tile Choices
Visit any ceramic tile store and youll be overwhelmed by visual choice. But some of
the most important dierences in tiles have nothing to do with their colour, shape or
thickness. Your first consideration must revolve around the tiles water resistance,
not appearance. Water will make a mess of any tile installation if it soaks in
repeatedly and loosens the tile adhesive and grout. Thats why its important to
match the tiles porosity with the application.
In its simplest form, all tiles can be grouped into one of four families. Not all tile
merchants will use the precise descriptive terms youre about to read here, but all
reputable ones will tell where a tile can and cannot be used. Traditional terra cotta
tiles, for instance, are said to be non-vitreous, meaning they absorb water like crazy.
This isnt a problem in living rooms, indoor play areas or kitchens, but does rule out
39
terra cotta for wet areas like shower stalls, and out of doors in cold climates where
the absorbed water will freeze during winter, breaking the tile in the process. Next
on the scale is semi-vitreous tile. You can use these in wet, indoor areas, under a
coat of sealer, but not outside where the freeze/thaw cycle works its mischief.
Vitreous tiles still absorb some water, but not enough to warrant a sealer for most
indoor uses. You may or may not have trouble with vitreous tiles outdoors,
depending on the toughness of the tiles surface glazing. The most waterproof tile is
classed as impervious, and it absorbs almost no water at all. You can use these
anywhere.
Rigidity is Key
All ceramic tile installations rely on a rigid foundation. Without it, tiles crack and
come loose with disappointing speed, regardless of their porosity. Years ago this rigid
base could be created in only one way -- by laying a 1 to 1 1/2-inch thick layer of steel-
reinforced mortar onto a tarred wooden subfloor. Though labour-intensive, this
thick-bed installation is still an excellent choice today, especially where you plan to
have radiant floor heating, or you need to increase the thermal mass of a room to
help it hold solar heating gains longer. Its rare, however, that youll find a
professional tile setter volunteering to complete a thick-bed installation under
routine circumstances nowadays. Reason being theres an easier and equally-good
modern alternative. Its based on beefing up an existing subfloor with a second layer
of water-resistant plywood or cement-based backer board. Both the original subfloor
and the added layer must be screwed to the underlying floor joists so they dont come
loose in time. Nails alone might work, but they might not. Tiles can them be
fastened directly to this base using adhesives made for the job. This is called a ~~thin-
bed installation. Remember, movement is the enemy of any ceramic tile installation,
so the subfloor elements should be screwed down every 8 inches along each joist for
maximum durability.
40
Tools For the Do-It-Yourselfer

Professional tile setters use a bunch of dierent tools, the most impressive being a
portable bench saw that spins a water-cooled diamond blade to slice tiles. Dont
think that you need all this stu to do a good job on your own, though. Since youre
not as interested in eciency as the pros, youll do just fine with an inexpensive snap-
cutter to score and break the tiles along a straight line. A pair of sharp-jawed cutters
called nibblers will let you create rounded cut-outs in most places you need them.
One thing the pros have that cant be purchased o the shelf is a keen eye for
regulating the all-important grout spaces between neighbouring tiles as theyre set.
You can simulate this skill with reusable plastic tile spacers placed temporarily
between tiles during installation or, as I prefer, cut your own spacers out of wood
scraps on the table saw. This way youll get the spacers for free, and can adjust their
thickness to exactly what looks best to you. Typically, grout spaces measure 1/8 to
3/32-inch wide, though theyre often much wider with rustic tile styles. Let your own
good taste be your guide.
Grout comes in many dierent colours, and some formulations include built-in water
repellents and mould inhibitors. Grout installation starts after the tiles are solidly
set, say, a day or two after installation. Begin by mixing up a small batch of grout with
water until its the consistency of thick oatmeal. Plop a grapefruit-sized blob of grout
onto one corner of your installation, then begin to work it into all the cracks, this
way and that, using a 12-inch piece of 2x4. (The pros use a wooden trowel for this,
but you wont need one for just one job.) The idea is to force the grout into the
spaces from all angles, then scrap o the excess with your homemade wooden trowel.
When the grout has started to firm up, perhaps after 30 to 60 minutes, begin wiping
down the tile surface with a wet sponge. Your aim is to remove all grout from the tile
faces, while leaving it in the gaps. If your sponging action gouges grout from between
the tiles, even with mild hand pressure, you know the grout hasnt hardened enough
41
yet. If, on the other hand, the grout is dicult to remove from the tile surfaces, hurry
up and get wiping! Youve let things go a little too far. Either way, youll have to wipe
and wipe and wipe and wipe, but eventually youll get all the stray grout o your tile
faces. The key is to be patient, and rinse the grout out of your sponge often in a pail
of water. Mix more grout and continue the process until all the grout spaces are
filled.
The best book Ive found on ceramic tile installation is Setting Ceramic Tiles by
Michael Byrne. Best sure to take a look at it, especially if youre taking on a tile
setting job yourself.
Squeaky Floors Can Be Fixed (Usually)

Wood floors can be a lot like those exotic foreign sports cars that people pay bags of
money for, then endure endless reliability problems, all in exchange for class and
prestige. Wood floors are wonderful, and some are quite well behaved. But lots are
also squeaky. And the problem is always caused by the same thing: underfoot wood
movement. Get rid of the movement, and youll get rid of the squeak.
Repairs from Below

If your wood floor is accessible from below, perhaps from an unfinished basement
area, then you can probably fix its squeaks without a trace. Youll need a hammer, a
bunch of 1 1/2-inch wide wooden wedges (tapered from about 1/4-inch down to
nothing, over their 6 or 8-inch length), a bottle of carpenters glue and a willing
helper. If you cant cut your own wedges with a tablesaw jig, then buy them from a
building supply yard. Its important that the wedge be tapered along its full length,
and not just a thin piece of wood with parallel sides.
42
Have your helper walk around upstairs while you listen and feel for the blasted
squeak. Dab some glue on the end of the wedge and hammer it into the space
between the floors vertical framing members (called ~~joists) and the underside of
the the sub-floor, while the feet upstairs continue to walk on the spot. In order to
succeed, the pressure from the wedge must bend up the sub-floor a bit, and increase
the support to the wood flooring in that area. Dont be afraid to use lots of wedges
in the same spot. The glue you squirt on before insertion will keep them from
working loose later.
Nearly Invisible Repairs from Above

If you only have a few squeaky spots on a floor thats inaccessible from below, or if
the wedge trick doesnt work, heres something else to try. Youll need an electric
drill, a 3/32-inch drill bit and a glue syringe with a thin metal nozzle. Carefully drill a
3/32-inch hole into the centre of the noisy area -- through the top surface of the wood
floor, but not much past the sub-floor thats underneath. Youll have to guess at this,
but traditional wood floors start at 3/4-inch thick, then get about 1/16 to 1/8-inch
thinner with each refinishing. Do your best. If you over-drill a little, thats okay.
Under-drilling, however, will prevent the fix from working, so be sure youre all the
way through the wood floor before continuing. Now open your glue syringe and
squirt in some glue from the bottle before replacing the plunger. Give it a squeeze to
make sure the glue comes out okay. If its too thick, water it down a bit. Through the
hole in the floor, inject as much glue as possible into the space between floor and
sub-floor. If you cant inject any glue in, maybe your hole isnt deep enough. Let the
glue dry for 24 hours without any weight on it before testing for squeaks again. A wax
filler stick is the best way to fill the small glue hole without disrupting the existing
floor finish.
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Heavy-Duty Repair from Above

If all else fails, or if youve got more squeaks than you can shake your fist at, its time
to get out the big guns. This sure-fire fix involves re-securing the wood floor from
above, with screws set into drilled pockets, then covered with 1/2-inch diameter,
ready-made tapered wooden plugs. You can get them at woodworking specialty
outlets and well-stocked hardware stores.
Since the screw holes will be visible, try to lay them out in a regular pattern of lines.
Start the process by pre-finishing the tops of your wooden plugs so they match or
contrast with the floor. Next, drill holes in a piece of scrap thats the same wood
species as the floor, to test-fit the plugs. Youre shooting for a hole size that allows
the plugs to tighten up nicely as theyre tapped flush with the floor. The plugs
mustnt stick up above the floor at all, though, because youve got no way to trim
them back neatly, unless youre planning a full-blown floor-sanding job. A standard
1/2-inch diameter spade bit will probably work just fine with 1/2-inch plugs, but you
must know for sure before you pepper your floor full of holes. Thats what the scrap
test is for. The sides of the bit can be ground down if the hole it makes is too big for
your plugs.
Next, determine the size of twist bit youll need to use to make a hole that the
screws shank can pass through easily. Preparing the screw holes in your floor is a
two-part process. First, drill the plug pocket to a depth of about 3/8 of an inch with
your spade bit. (A piece of masking tape wrapped around the bit will act as a visible
guide.) Next, follow up with the twist bit to drill a hole for the shank of the screw
through the wood floor only, not into the sub-floor. Now drive a #10 x 1 1/2-inch long
screw into the hole, followed by a wooden plug tapped overtop to hide it. Use a little
carpenters glue on the plug before insertion, and be sure its set level with the
surface of the floor before you wipe the area with a damp rag and move on to install
the next screw.
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New Floor Installation

I have about 2000 sq. ft. of squeak-free wood floors in my home and I attribute my
good fortune to an old-time floor installation rule that I blatantly broke. The
traditional routine involves fastening each floor board down with nails only, often
over a heavy layer of building paper. Doesnt this sound like a guaranteed way to
foster board-to-board wood movement and squeaking? My approach, on the other
hand, starts by driving zillions of 1 1/2-inch long drywall screws through the sub-floor
to secure it -- aim for a screw every 8 inches along every floor joist, just to make sure
the sub-floor stays put. Next, a floor board is cut to length, slathered with white (not
yellow or brown) carpenters glue on the underside, then nailed down as usual, with
finishing nails driven on an angle through the tongue of each board into the sub-
floor. Continue until the floor is covered, and dont get any glue on the tongues or
grooves. What youll end up with is a very solid floor because board-to-board
movement is completely eliminated by the glue. Its like walking on bedrock.
The theoretical concern with gluing down solid wood flooring is that seasonal
changes in humidity will cause stresses to build up within some boards because
theyre not free to move, and this may lead to cracking over time. Well, after seven
years of use, none of my floor boards have cracked, despite the fact that each board is
5 inches wide (the wider the board, the more likely to crack), and our house is bone-
dry in the winter and humid enough to curl paper in the summer. I suspect that part
of these good results come from the fact I used white glue, which Ive found to be
somewhat flexible after drying, and able to give-and-take with the seasons. Weldbond
is one brand thats particularly flexible. Yellow and brown carpenters glues, are
stronger but theyre also typically less flexible.
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Wainscoting Brings Class to Your Home

Wainscoting is a fancy name for something that does fancy things for your home. Its
an architectural feature that uses wooden trim or panels installed along the bottom
third or half of a wall to create an air of well-appointed luxury. Legend has it that
wainscoting was once installed to keep out drafts (wind skirting?), but nowadays its
just for looks. And it certainly delivers that. Dollar-for-dollar, wainscoting conjures
more class in a room than any other single trim feature you can name. This is
especially true of the simplest style that Ill tell you about first.
Keep It Simple
The easiest and least expensive form of wainscoting, isnt really wainscoting in the
traditional sense. Its simply pieces of trim applied to the face of a wall in repeating
square or rectangular patterns. The aim is to create the impression of four-sided,
wooden panels. To complete the look, a top cap made of a trim profile called ~~chair
rail is applied over the network, about 36 or 42 inches above the floor. Dont let the
simplicity of trim-style wainscoting fool you. It can do dramatic things for a room,
despite its ease of installation.
An added bonus of trim-style wainscoting is that it can be installed without

disturbing baseboard, door trim or window casings. Thats a big time and cost saver.
Its also something you can fool around with on your own while deciding if
wainscoting is really for you. Its easy to get a few piece of dierent trim from your
building supply outlet, then saw them up roughly and hold them against the wall as
you decide on the height, spacing and trim profiles youll use. Once you decide on
something you like, use a pencil to mark the walls with the height and location of the
trim elements you want. Installation can then be done yourself, or turned over to a
pro.
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One thing to keep in mind: Trim-style wainscoting should be painted to look its best.
Itll look weird if finished transparently with stain or varnish because theres really
not enough wood involved to pull it o visually. Choose a slightly darker paint for the
trim than whats found on the surrounding walls if you want it to stand out.
Introducing Wood
A more involved wainscoting option uses a base layer of 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch thick
hardwood-veneered plywood applied against the wall, from the floor to the top of
the wainscoted area. This acts as a visual foundation for the same kind of applied
trim mentioned above. The plywood-based approach is the best way to introduce
the look of wood into your wainscoting plans, without going to extraordinary
lengths. And of course, you wont be using any paint here, just a clear sealer, maybe
over stain.
Yes, youll have to remove and re-apply existing trim around doors, windows and the
floor to do it, but the results can be impressive. Oak veneered plywood and trim is
almost always chosen for this sort of work, and theres nothing wrong with it. My
personal favourite, however, is cherry. It has a striking reddish brown colour that
deepens and mellows with age and exposure to sunlight. Good cherry wainscoting is
like fine furniture attached to your wall. Itll add as much to the value of a room as
the best hardwood floors. In fact, cherry is the best-kept secret in the trim world; I
cant understand how this came to be. You may have to visit specialty trim suppliers
to get cherry products, but the hunt is worth it.
Pulling Out All the Stops

My personal wainscoting favourite is the traditional approach that uses short lengths
of interlocking wood (not plywood) laid vertically against a wall, capped by a
horizontal ledge on top and an extra-wide baseboard along the floor. I must admit,
47
however, this is also the most troublesome to install, especially when the job isnt
part of major renovations. One of the challenges comes from the need to install
horizontal nailing strips behind the wall surface. Youll need these to anchor the
vertical boards, top and bottom. Despite the trouble, though, solid wood
wainscoting is the real thing. And if youre committed to authenticity, as I am, theres
little to think about.
An excellent book that covers wainscoting design and installation is Trim Carpentry
Techniques, by Craig Savage. Even if you dont intend to do any work yourself, this
book will allow you to direct the work of a trim carpenter intelligently.
Choose Laminate Floor Carefully

Laminate flooring came to Canada nearly 20 years ago,
and while I've been watching both the flooring and the
people who choose it for their homes, I've noticed
something that's not true about other flooring choices.
Laminates please a lot of people, but they also disappoint
more than a few homeowners, too. The varied outcome,
it seems, depends on the flooring you choose, where you
use it and your expectations. Are you thinking about a
new hard-surface floor for your home? Let me help you
decide one way or the other about laminates by oering the kind of cautionary
information you won't find in sales brochures.
Laminates were originally developed in Europe and are based on a high density
fiberboard core covered with a visible, outer layer that simulates wood, stone or tile.
Some laminates are available in plain colors, too. Neighboring pieces fit together
with tongue and groove edges, without attaching to the underlying floor at all.
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Original designs required all these edge joints to be glued together, but most modern
laminates click together with a self-locking, glueless tongue and groove joint.
I happen to like laminates a lot -- at least, the right kind of laminates. That's why I
chose to install it a couple of weeks ago in the oce loft I'm completing over my
workshop.
Most people recognize that laminates are fast and easy to install with a minimum of
mess inflicted on the rest of the house. What you probably dont understand is how
very simple the work really is.
My 10- and 17-year-old sons and I put down about 500 sq. ft. of flooring in my oce
in one day, including some areas that required fancy cutting. It got to the point
where my youngest helper could quickly and easily install the flooring all on his own,
unattended, as fast as any carpenter. Professional installation costs are typically 50%
extra on top of flooring costs alone, so theres good money to be saved if you put it
down your self. DIY success is easy, provided you understand several essential tricks.
For more information on installing your own laminates, send me an email at
laminates@stevemaxwell.ca.
Besides speed, laminate flooring is also one of the best wood-type options for
installation above radiant in-floor heat. It resists drying and shrinkage better than
solid wood floors, and it also requires no nails that might puncture the plastic
heating pipes that carry warm water. Laminates simply float, installed over a thin
layer of medium density foam underlay that compensates for the inevitable small
bumps and depressions in the underlying subfloor.
Laminates can be exceptionally durable, but not always. And this is exactly where
disappointment sets in for some homeowners who select a particular laminate
49
without sucient understanding. Too often, people unwittingly choose a low-priced

version without realizing that there's a huge dierence in physical durability across
all laminate choices. The best versions are tough enough to happily endure use in
stores and restaurants where people walk on the floor all day long wearing gritty
street shoes. At the other end of the spectrum you'll find laminates that chip and
scratch with annoying ease. And since damage like this can't be repaired flawlessly,
you need to choose a product that's tough enough by design.
There are two ways to get a sense of the real world durability of the laminates you're
considering. The first is to look at products that are specifically rated for heavy
residential or light commercial applications. Next, buy a single bundle of your
favorite product and temporarily click it together in the highest trac area of your
home for at least several weeks. Besides giving you an accurate sense of resistance to
scratching and chipping, you'll also see how the flooring shows up dirt. Many dark
colors look terrific in the showroom but show up dust and grime much more
obviously than lighter designs. Try some out first and youll avoid nasty surprises.
Worlds Cheapest Finished Floor

Theres an unusual floor surface in my house that
always attracts compliments from visitors. It has seen
five years of non-stop family trac, yet looks as good
today as it did when new. And best of all, it costs less
than 60-cents per square foot for materials. My
particular installation is made of 12 x 12 tiles, but
many other variations are possible, each with a look
thats reminiscent of a composite cork floor. Whats
most surprising to everyone who sees the floor is that
its made of ordinary, 3/4-thick particleboard.
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Particleboard has a well-deserved reputation for being a cheap and shoddy building
material. Its used liberally in all the worst furniture and has gained the disdain of
almost everyone who lives with it. But when it comes to use as a floor covering,
particleboard can be first-rate. The trick is understanding what goes into a top-
quality installation, and respecting some of particleboards limitations.
Exercising Your Creative Options

Besides the fact that its inexpensive and durable, the nice thing about a
particleboard floor is that it oers you lots of creative opportunities. I opted to cut
mine into 12 x 12 tiles, then installed them with 1/4-wide, solid wood spacers all
around each one before sanding and finishing the floor surface. You could opt for
tiles of any size and shape, either with or without spacers. Patterns, strips or very
large sheets are also options too, as are lots of dierent finishing possibilities.
The only limitation you should be aware of is particleboard's low resistance to

water. Even with a thorough coating of sealer, particleboard wont stand up well in
wet locations. Dont install it in bathrooms or right at an entrance that usually
becomes muddy and wet during winter. Particleboard can be installed in basements
that are dry enough to sport hardwood, but not where there is dampness or any
chance of flooding.
Getting Down to Business

Installing a particleboard floor is well within the reach of a careful do-it-yourselfer
equipped with a tablesaw and hand tools. If you intend to hire the job out, choose a
contractor who is part cabinetmaker, part carpenter. Remember, the idea of a
particleboard floor is probably going to be brand new to most tradespeople. Youll
want to find one who is comfortable trying a new technique, and is convinced of its
value.
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The foundation of an excellent installation depends on precise cutting of the raw, 4-

foot x 8-foot particleboard sheets into the tile sizes of your choice. Unlike ceramic
tiles, with their variable-width grout joints, theres no room for variation between
particleboard tiles. Any errors in initial cutting turn into ugly gaps during
installation.
Sanding and Finishing

A particleboard floor requires sanding just as any new wood floor does, but there is
one extra thing you must watch for. If youve used softwood strips between tiles,
these will tend to sand down faster than the surrounding particleboard, which is
quite hard by comparison. Choosing a belt-style floor sander will yield better results
than a drum-style machine, which concentrates sanding action in a smaller area and
can cause gouging of soft wood strips.
Particleboard can be finished in any way that wood can, but for use as flooring you
should choose finishing products that are very durable. My preferred recipe is to
start with a coat of medium-brown stain, followed by three coats of a clear, water-
based urethane thats rated specifically for use on floors. Sanding lightly between
coats is essential. My favourite floor finishing product is made by Flecto, though all
paint manufacturers now carry water-based urethanes. The main thing to remember
about particleboard is that its much more absorbent than wood, and soaks up stain
like a sponge. This means that any stain you apply will produce a much darker colour
than when its applied to a piece of solid wood. I strongly urge you to completely
finish some sample squares of particleboard before settling on a particular recipe. In
fact, pre-finishing some large squares of particleboard is an excellent way to decide
whether or not particleboard is for you. A full 4-foot x 8-foot sheet costs only $15.00,
and most building supply yards will slice it up so you can get it into your car. While
these pieces will be just fine as finishing samples, dont think you can get a building
52
supplier to slice them into tiles for you. The precision of their equipment just isnt
good enough for this job.
Flooring, Trim & Interior Finishes Q&As

Crack-Free Ceramic Tile Installation
Q: How can I ensure that a new ceramic tile job won't crack again? I'm removing
tiles installed poorly 15 years ago, and I plan to install a layer of cement board on top
of the existing subfloor. Is there anything else I should consider?
A: You're on the right track with your plans to add cement board to the existing
subfloor, but I wouldn't rely on this exclusively. You should also use a dimpled,
plastic underlay called Ditra. It's made by a tile accessory manufacturer called
Schluter (www.schluter.com; 800-667-8746), and it goes a long way to ensuring crack
free ceramics. Trowel a layer of thin set adhesive onto your beefed up subfloor,
nestled the Ditra sheet overtop, then trowel more thin set on top of that before
setting tiles. Unlikely as it sounds, Ditra creates an opportunity for the arrangement
of tile and grout to move slightly relative to the subfloor, and this decoupling action
reduces the tendency for cracks to form.
Restoring a Metal Fireplace Grate

Q: Whats the best way to clean up a rusty, cast-iron fireplace grate? Ive been told
that the easiest way to removerust is with a product called naval jelly. Trouble is, no
one at any of the building supply or hardware stores has heard of it.
53
A: Cleaning up your grate involves the same steps that work with any kind of rusty
metal, though in your case theres something else to think about. If you'll actually be
using the grate regularly for fires itll be covered in ash and soot, so there's no point
in doing much more than knocking o the loose rust with a wire brush. But if you
really want the grate to look good (while also using it occasionally), then I have a
three-step procedure to suggest.
Naval Jelly is the brand name of a rust removal chemical used often in the
automotive industry. Products like these aren't carried in home improvement stores,
but you will find them in the automotive
department at Canadian Tire. That said,
chemical removal of the rust is only the
beginning. The next step involves
mechanical cleaning of the metal, and a
rotary brush on an electric drill or angle
grinder works great. Brushes with coarse,
twisted bristles are best. Be sure to wear
safety glasses while you work.
Even if your grate is stored indoors, it'll probably develop rust during damp weather
if you leave it bare. That's why you should paint it. Black, high-temperature spray
paint is surprisingly durable and comes in a flat sheen that's perfect for this job.
Caulking to Fill Trim Gaps?

Q: What's the story with all the caulking used to fill gaps around baseboards, window
and door trim on the new house Im having built? Seems to me its just a cover-up for
poor workmanship. Am I right?
54
A: There are two categories of architectural trim in the world: stain-grade and paint-
grade. Stain-grade trim is more dicult and expensive to install because all the joints
have to fit perfectly. Theres no opportunity to use filler because it would remain
obvious under any transparent or semi-transparent wood finish. Paint-grade trim, on
the other hand, is dierent because paint is completely opaque. This lets trim
carpenters work more quickly (and economically) because all gaps can be eectively
filled with latex caulking before paint. As you've probably noticed, though, the
results can appear pretty shabby until the paint goes on. Just dont be fooled.
Properly filled and sanded joints typically look great when the job is complete.
Drywall Anchor Removal

Q: What's the best way to remove plastic wall anchors from drywall? I want to
minimize the mess and fill the holes before painting.
A: To achieve a great repair, you'll need

three things: a 100 mm (4-inch) wide
drywall knife (it looks like a wide putty
knife), a sponge sanding block and a
small tub of drywall repair compound.
Begin work by pounding the anchor and
any frazzled drywall slightly below the
wall surface using the round end of your
drywall knife. You need to create a slight
crater in the entire area of repair. Theres
no need to remove the anchor unless is obviously easy to pull out. Next, fill the hole
and crater completely with drywall compound, plus an additional thin ski of
compound that sits slightly proud of the surface.Let the compound dry completely.
It usually takes 12 to 24 hours, depending on humidity and temperature.
55
Typical drywall compound shrinks as it hardens, so you might have a dimple or small
amount or cracking at this stage. Sand the repair zone so all compound is removed
from the wall surface. If the compound doesnt form dry dust, then its still too wet
to sand. Apply another coat of compound, filling any new dimple that's formed,
leaving another thin layer of fresh compound proud of the wall surface. Let this
second coat dry, then sand again, feathering the compound gradually and seamlessly
into the surrounding wall. Two coats are usually sucient for small repairs like this. If
any cracking or dimple has developed while the second coat dried, sand and
complete a third. Paint the area and you'll never know an old anchor was there!
Painting Furniture
Q: What should I do to paint furniture used by our kids years ago? I want to freshen
it up, and this seems like an easy thing to do.
A: Painting will probably work, but you need to do a couple of things correctly. Begin
by lightly sanding the entire surface with 220-grit paper. Nothing fancy, just a gentle
treatment to scu up the surface. Next, coat a small patch with 100% acrylic latex
paint and see how it behaves for a while. A week after application, try to rub the
paint o with your fingers. If the coating seems strong (and it probably will), go
ahead and paint all the furniture with confidence. This same technique works fine on
wooden wall paneling, too. If you have trouble with paint adhesion during your tests,
youll need to strip the furniture back to bare wood, then paint.
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Section 6
Heating, Air Conditioning & Ventilation
Wood Heating Can Be Green

Firewood is the best of all heating fuels and
firewood is the worst of all heating fuels. The
reality of your experience depends on exactly
how the wood is burned and what your
expectations are. I know because Ive spent the
last 20 years heating with environmentally
harvested wood in one form or another while
also researching developments in the field and
writing about them. As high fossil fuel prices remain with us, I suspect that
homeowners everywhere are looking seriously at the economy of wood heat, many
for the first time. This might become an environmentally green trend in our country
or it might not. The outcome depends on how firewood is harvested, how its
handled and, especially, how its burned.
When fossil fuel prices first skyrocketed in the 1970s, wood heating gained a
legitimate reputation for causing serious air pollution. As people living close to
neighbours began to burn sizable amounts of wood in dirty, smoke-choked stoves,
complaints rose, opinions formed, and restrictive legislation passed.
But despite this history, wood heating isnt necessarily bad for air quality. The fact is,
wood can be burned cleanly, and when it is, this renewable resource delivers an
environmental benefit that no other heating fuel can match. To understand how, you
need to appreciate the way previous concepts of air pollution are too narrow.
57
If the scientists who link global warming with airborne carbon emissions are correct,
then humanitys going to have to broaden its definition of what constitutes air
pollution. And this is where firewood shines.
Yes, firewood does release carbon into the atmosphere when burned, but this carbon
needs to be considered dierently than the carbon released when natural gas or oil is
burned. Firewood carbon is going to end up in the atmosphere whether its burned
for heat or not. Leave the tree in the forest to die and rot, and almost all its carbon
still ends up in the air just as if you burned it. But, on the other hand, every time you
burn natural gas or oil, youre releasing brand new carbon into the atmosphere,
carbon that would otherwise have remained harmlessly encased forever thousands of
meters underground.
While firewood has great green potential, it must be burned correctly for this
potential to be realized. This is key, and correct combustion means one of three
options: an emissions-certified stove, a wood pellet stove or a high temperature
masonry heater.
Of these three options, the masonry heater is

the oldest and the least understood in our part
of the world. Its also an option that I have
plenty of personal experience with. Almost 20
years ago I built a masonry heater in my house
after learning about the astonishingly clean
performance they oer. Masonry heaters are
also surprisingly ecient, though they do have
an Achilles Heel.
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Imagine a 1000C wood fire burning for 90 minutes within a masonry structure that
weighs several tons. You get clean, creosote-free combustion because of the
extremely high temperatures involved, while heat delivery to the room is gentle, even
and slow. The masonry absorbs heat as exhaust gases pass through a long series of
passages connected to the chimney. This absorbed heat is then radiated slowly over
the next half day or so. Combustion is so clean, in fact, that no visible smoke comes
from the chimney after the first ten minutes of a burn. In the 17 years Ive lived with
my system, the chimney has remained clean on its own. This is the masonry heater
proposition in a nutshell.
For something that sounds so simple, masonry heaters are surprisingly dicult to
build properly. The reason is the intense heat involved and the thermal stresses this
creates. This has the power to deteriorate ordinary fireplace materials in a matter of
months, and thats why only specially trained tradespeople build masonry heaters
from scratch in Europe. Here in Canada, however, weve brought the concept of
masonry heaters into the 21st century in a dierent way.
The masonry heater I built in 1990 was constructed around a heat resistant
refractory core built by Tempcast Enviroheat. (www.tempcast.com; 800-561-8594)
Theyre still in business today, and have refined the product so it works even better
than the unit I put in. You assemble the precast components of the firebox and
exhaust passages, then clad them in brick or stone. The result is a reliable, low-tech
and surprisingly green heating option thats also cozy and delightful to live with.
Wood heating is definitely not for everyone. It takes much more diligence than
punching buttons on a thermostat, and much more elbow grease to split, stack and
haul firewood. Think of it like a fitness program that also keeps your house warm
while not warming up the atmosphere in ways
thats got a lot of people worried these days.
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Eliminate Window Condensation and Enjoy Better Air, too

Every fall for the last decade Ive received emails from homeowners frantic about
condensation forming on their windows as the weather gets colder. But this year
somethings dierent. There are more requests for help than usual. Many more. I
dont know why, but I do know that the problem of sweaty windows is widespread
across Canada and its not getting better. In fact, the issue of window condensation
and the resulting mold growth is the single most perennial question I receive, despite
years of writing about successful solutions. And besides being common, window
condensation also indicates more of a problem than meets the eye. Its like the
proverbial canary in a mineshaft.
Whenever a window develops beads of water on the inside during cold weather, it
means that the surface of the glass has cooled enough to cause the moisture carried
in the indoor air to condense. The air itself is the source of the mysterious moisture,
and dealing with the air is where the best remedy will be found. A little bit of non-
running condensation around the edges of a window is normal during winter and
harmless, but when it advances enough to require a rag to mop up the water, you
need to find a solution. Just dont be fooled by appearances. Your windows probably
arent the cause of the problem.
New homes and recently renovated ones include features that keep warm air in and
drafts out. Thats good. Whats not so good is the other stu that tight construction
holds in: airborne contaminants and moisture. If your windows sweat a lot, it
indicates inadequate ventilation. Theres too much water in the air, and probably too
many o-gassed contaminants, too. My favourite way of solving the water problem
automatically leads to much better indoor air quality.
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All of this is why your best solution to

window condensation is a heat recovery
ventilator (HRV). Its a ventilation appliance
that draws fresh outdoor air into your home,
expels moist, stale indoor air outside, while
also retaining about 80% of the heat energy
invested in the old air. Outdoor wintertime
air becomes bone dry when its brought inside
and heated up, and this is why HRVs are so eective at reducing sweaty windows.
They lower indoor humidity levels like nothing else can. Leading HRVs also feature a
replaceable HEPA-rated filter that helps lower indoor levels of pollen and some
pollutants.
Although HRVs are the technology of choice for

eliminating window condensation, theyre not
cheap. The unit itself typically costs $1000 to
$1500, with installation by a ventilation
technician costing an additional $1000 or more.
All this is why some folks try to solve their wet
window problem using a dehumidifier. And while
this seems logical, theres a problem. Two
problems, in fact. Dehumidifiers cant lower relative humidity levels enough to
prevent window condensation during winter, and even if they could youd still only
have dry, stale air.
Its understandable that the blame for wet windows would be cast on the windows
themselves, but this is rarely correct. In fact, one of the classic queries I get comes
from the homeowner who had new windows installed, only to find that condensation
is the same or worse. Condensation that gets worse after installing modern, multi-
61
pane windows is actually a good sign. It usually means that the new windows are
sealing better than the old ones. Drafts have been reduced, and indoor humidity
levels have risen as more moisture is being retained.
Will an HRV work in a home that has no ducts to distribute the fresh air? I
wondered the same thing 15 years ago. After failing to find anyone who would give
me a definitive answer, I went ahead and installed my own HRV in a second-story
storage area, with one stale air intake pipe going through the floor to draw air from
the level below, and one fresh air outlet leading into the second story room just
outside the storage area. The result has been excellent performance, despite no
ducts. Having the inlet and outlet on separate floors forces house-wide circulation.
Even in single-story homes, by strategically locating your HRV in the basement
(perhaps with a small amount of ducting) you can expect pretty good results.
Before you go ahead and commit to an HRV, check on a few things first. Is the
humidifier on your furnace turned o? No point in adding more moisture the air if
youve already got too much. Shutting o the humidifier may solve your problem.
Also, if your current windows have only one pane of glass, they may still sweat even
with an HRV on your side. With such low insulation properties, the glass surface will
remain a potent source of condensation because it gets so cold.
You must also realize that unless you have windows with very good insulation
properties, youll probably have to make your home uncomfortably dry in order to
completely eliminate condensation. During very cold weather youll need to discover
the balancing point between comfort and a tolerable and harmless amount of
window condensation.
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One thing thats easy to get used to is breathing fresher indoor air delivered by an
HRV. Experience it for yourself and youll be glad your wet windows told you there
was more of a problem than just damp glass.
Watch Out For False Energy Claims

A few winters ago I visited a man who was eager to show me a wonderful home
heating system he'd installed and was now acting as distributor for. "It warms things
up by radiating energy to people, not the building", he explained. It was about -20C
outside that day, and for whatever reason the system was not radiating energy to me.
This guy's house was cold as a fridge -- probably less than 10C -- though he didn't
seem to mind. "The manufacturer says you've got to move around for this kind of
radiant heat to have any eect on you, he explained. The more you move, the more
radiant energy you attract" he said, smiling as he paced back and forth in the living
room, inviting me to do the same. "We're hardly spending anything on heat this year
and I've had all kinds of people over to see how this thing works."
I hope his clients brought sweaters. The snake oil industry is still vibrant and
vigorous in the 21st century, and it's
been given an especially strong new
lease on life with our increasing
interest in energy conservation
products that promise to reduce
household heating costs. While some
of these items are completely
legitimate, a surprising number are
not. And like all such swindles, today's
"green" schemes use the same tactics as such things always have: present a few half-
truths in the context of a technically complex situation, then pull the wool over
people's eyes just long enough to take their money. But this doesn't have to happen to
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you, and knowledge is the way you protect yourself. Grasp the basic facts of physics
I'll share with you here and you'll never fall victim to a sneaky sales pitch that
promises energy savings that it can never deliver.
The cost of heating your home depends on three things and three things only: how
much heat escapes from your house, how much you pay for the energy entering your
home, and what portion of the energy you buy actually translates into warm air. And
of these three, the last one -- generically called "eciency" -- is used most often to
fool people, especially when the term is applied to electric heaters. And the most
recent example of this funny business arrived in my workshop several months ago. It
probably won't be the last, either.
The press release and product packaging claimed that this new electric heater saves
more than 70% compared with conventional heaters. And strictly speaking, this fact
is true -- or at least half true. Yes, the new heater does use substantially less power --
400 watts compared with 1500 watts for standard heaters -- but it also puts out
correspondingly less heat. In fact, every single penny of electricity it does not
consume is exactly proportional to the warm air it does not deliver. And to
understand why this is the case, you need to realize something unique about electric
heat.
We're so used to the idea of technical products becoming more ecient, that we
tend to think that the possibility for eciency gains exists universally across the
board. It does not. When it comes to electric heaters, theres no room for eciency
gains because these devices are already 100% ecient. Every last kilowatt hour of
electricity you pay for is converted into heat by every single electric heater on the
planet. None are more ecient than any other, though claims to the contrary are
widespread and often based on some bizarre technical fiction that sounds legitimate
on the surface.
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In the case of the miracle 400 watt heater, the manufacturer claimed that because it
was wall-mounted, with a small space behind to allow air circulation, the unit made
you feel as warm as all the other 1500 watt electric heaters on the market. I only wish
it were as easy to circumvent the immutable laws of physics as it is to weave a
plausible sounding lie.
The only exception to this is radiant in-floor heating systems which tend to make
you feel somewhat warmer at a slightly lower room temperature because it keeps
your feet toasty.
Reducing household energy costs is very much like the rest of life. True success
depends on tackling the boring basics. Do you really want to reduce household
heating costs? The best return on investment for most homes comes from adding
insulation. Either that or pacing back and forth vigorously in your living room
thinking warm thoughts.
Heating, Air Conditioning & Ventilation Q&As
Mini-Split A/C
Q: What are my options for air conditioning a 1400 sq. ft. condo I just bought? Its
got electric baseboard heaters, so there arent any ducts.
A: Besides the obvious choice of a window unit, take a look at something called a
ductless, mini-split air conditioner. They're made by several firms and are quite
popular in Europe and Asia. More and more are appearing here in North America,
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too.All models have an external compressor

that gets parked outside (just like a conventional
central air, but smaller) and requires no ducts.
Instead, cooling action is delivered to various
rooms by a pair of small pipes that connect to a
wall mounted cooling unit. You can have one of
these cooling units installed or several in
dierent rooms. Ductless mini-splits are quiet, eective and surprisingly ecient.
Unlike central air, they also allow you to save electricity by cooling specific areas only.
A/C Functionality
Q: How can I tell if the central air conditioner in our new house is working properly?
On hot days this past summer it would take three hours to go from 25C to 22C. Ive
never lived with a/c before. Is this normal?
A: That cooling rate is unusually slow, and there could be two causes. It's possible
that your a/c isn't working properly because of an internal, mechanical problem. It's
also possible that the system is working as well as it can, but doesn't cool your house
quickly because the unit is too small or the duct system is poorly designed. This
happens more often than it should. Either way, the only way to tell for sure is to get
an air conditioner technician out to take a look.
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Section 7
Plumbing & Electrical
Tap Water Tune-Up

Are you concerned about the taste and quality of your drinking water? Lots of people
are, but thats not news. You hear this story all the time. What is news, however, are
all the ways you can now improve your tap water with in-home technology. The
possibilities have improved lately, mostly because were worried. Is our water as safe
as we once thought? Maybe, but lots of us arent entirely convinced.
Finding Out What Youve Got

The government provides access to basic water testing services through district
health units, though the emphasis here is on the word~~basic. Government testing is
for bacteriological contamination only, not chemical contamination. While this is
certainly useful, a sample of, say, sterile water laced with arsenic, would still get a
potable rating according to these simple tests. Yes, bacteria can hurt you, but most
of the public anxiety about drinking water today springs from possible chemical
contaminants. Our knowledge of chemical hazards is incomplete, so were especially
nervous.
More complete testing for a range of chemicals is available through private labs, with
costs ranging from $50 to $400 per test. But even then, such tests will only provide a
snapshot of current water purity. Water quality will change over time, and old test
results cant warn you of new developments. If you have reasons to be concerned
about your drinking water now, how long will a safe test result ease your mind? Yes,
drinking water analysis is useful, but for most of us it isnt the complete answer to
our concerns, even when the results are reassuring.
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Dealing With Chemical Contaminants

If youre connected to a large municipal water supply, your primary concern is
probably about chemical contaminants, not microorganisms. Sure, bugs can and do
get into municipal water, but the systems that deliver this water are designed to
eliminate these critters at source, since weve known about their potential threat for
many years. There are exceptions to this, of course, such as the recent awareness of
water-borne parasites which cant be killed by conventional methods. But by-and-
large, constant monitoring and public announcements will usually keep you informed
if micro-organisms enter your municipal supply. Ironically, chlorine is the tool most
often used to purify water municipally, and chlorine is now one of the leading causes
of health concerns among the water-drinking public. Just consider the popularity of
carbon filter jugs and youll see what I mean. In fact, chlorine has become a four-
letter word.
A growing list of scientific findings suggests that when chlorine reacts with organic
materials (such as bacteria) in water, it produces a family of chemical by-products
called trihalomethanes. Water drawn from surface sources, like lakes and rivers, is
most likely to contain organic substances. In high enough concentrations,
trihalomethanes have been linked to serious health problems. At first these studies
were easy to ignore, but as similar findings arise from more and more sources, its
getting dicult to dismiss them. Even the steam from chlorinated showers has
received recent scientific scrutiny as a source of inhalable trihalomethanes.
One of these easiest ways to get rid of chlorine and its chemical by-products is with
an activated carbon filter. This system will also remove many other chemical
contaminants too. Whole-house units can be installed to treat all the water you use
for about $1000; the carbon will need to be replaced in 1 to 2 years, however, at a
cost of $150 to $200. Carbon derived from coconut shells is regarded as the most
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eective type for water filtration purposes, but even with this premium stu on your
side, you wont get rid of all contaminants.
If your aim is the most chemically pure drinking water you can possibly get from a
tap, youve got two main options: distillation and reverse-osmosis (RO) filtration.
Neither of these choices are practical for whole-house applications because of their
low daily outputs. Both are designed to treat only one or two taps in a house.<
Distillation systems ($500 to $1000 plus installation) use a substantial amount of

electricity to boil, then condense, water to purify it. Everything is removed by this
process, except volatile chemical components that boil and condense along with the
water. Youll need to add an activated carbon filter to get rid of these.
Reverse-osmosis systems ($1000 and up), use a very, very fine filter membrane to
remove everything thats not water. Even substances held in solution are removed by
this process. Moderately hard water will clog up a reverse osmosis system quickly,
though, as will large particles of sediment. For this reason, RO systems often come
bundled with other filter components that keep things working. You may also have to
add a water softener to the system. Maintenance of an RO unit involves changing the
membrane, at a cost of about $200, perhaps every few years depending on water
quality and usage.
Micro-Organism Control
If you draw water from a well, or get it pumped in from a small municipal supply, you
may have legitimate concerns about micro-organisms in your water. Have it checked.
The most vulnerable time is during spring and fall, when rainwater sloshes down
freely into the underground aquifer. Home-based options for microbial treatment
include small chlorination or iodination units, ultraviolet systems that kill critters
with light, and silver-impregnated under-sink filters.
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A relatively new way to treat water for bacteria and odour is with oxygen delivered in
the form of hydrogen peroxide. Besides killing germs, hydrogen peroxide (which is
just an ordinary water molecule with an additional oxygen atom tacked on) also has
the eect of transforming odour and taste-producing components into forms that
can be filtered out easily. Sulphur-water, a condition that makes some well water
smell like rotten eggs, can be eectively treated with a hydrogen peroxide/carbon
filter combination. The largest municipal use of hydrogen peroxide technology for
odour control of sulphur-water began several years ago in southern California.
Various oxygen-based systems are used in about 60% of European municipal water
supplies, where the drawbacks of chlorination have been a public concern for a long
time.
Electrical Safety Now Simpler in Ontario

Seventeen years ago this month, I stepped into the
basement of the newly renovated home my wife and I
were renting. That one, simple visit might have saved
our lives. Id gone down to get supplies for our brand
new baby boy, when I heard a faint buzzing coming
from the basement ceiling. It sounded like a fly, but
dierent. As I followed the buzz to its source, my
mouth went dry. The noise was coming from a new
electrical box, installed as part of renovations the
landlord had completed before we moved in. I opened
the cover and never slept soundly in that house again
for the 6 months we were there. Wiring connections that supplied baseboard heaters
were so poor that blue arcing was visible from the end of the twist-on connector. The
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air smelled of burned wires and the metal electrical box was warm, too. Isnt this
exactly how electrical house fires start?
Problems like these are why Ontario electrical safety regulations have changed in
ways that fosters better workmanship, and Ive got to say Im glad. The old situation
in the electrical contracting industry was more frightening than most people
realized.
Prior to the implementation of province-wide licensing by the Electrical Safety

Authority in January 2007, there existed a fragmented licensing system administered
only by certain municipalities, explains Peter Marcucci, Regulatory Aairs vice
president of the Electrical Safety Authority. The provincial ECRA/ESA license
evens out the playing field for contractors. All are now required to be licensed
regardless of the location in which they work; and only one license is needed. This
new system also makes it easier for consumers to trust licensed electrical contractors
doing business anywhere in Ontario.
Before all this happened, a contractor was required to be licensed in each

municipality in which he worked. Sometimes licensed, that is. Many municipalities
had no electrical licensing requirement at all and thats the kind of thing that led to
the near-tragic experience my family had in our rented house. After I discovered
the arcing electrical connections, a call to the landlord revealed hed hired an
ordinary handyman to do all the electrical work. Obviously, this guy wasnt aware of
his own limitations. During the remaining time we lived in the house we found a
handful of other dangerous electrical situations, too.
Few homeowners realized that it used to be legal for non-licensed tradespeople to

complete electrical work under the old system. But now peace of mind is easier to
find. Simply go to www.pluginsafely.ca, click on the Licensed Electrical Contractor
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link, and type in the name of the electrical contractor youre considering, to see if
they check out as legit.
You can also call 877-372-7233 for a verbal verification on any individual claiming to be
a licensed electrician in Ontario. Ive used both the phone service and website and
they worked flawlessly.
Bona fide ECRA/ESA licensed electrical contractors must be at least 18 years old, be
a master electrician or employ one, have an actual, physical business address in
Ontario, hold at least $2,000,000 liability insurance, be registered with the
Workplace Safety Insurance Board as required, and be current with all tax and
licensing paper work.
So where does this leave the DIY homeowner? Are we still allowed to do our own
electrical installations? As it stands now, homeowners are permitted to complete
electrical work in their own home, though its not as easy as it looks. You really need
to learn how to do this before you tackle even seemingly simple jobs.
While homeowners are permitted to do wiring in their own premises, ESA does not
recommend it, warns Marcucci. Our research shows that few homeowners
understand the risks involved with electricity and wiring. Just because the light turns
on when the switch is flipped, doesnt mean youve wired it safely. Its quite possible
the DIY wiring can endanger occupants or licensed electrical contractors working on
the wiring system in the future.
While Im always eager to rally against unnecessary government involvement (and

theres plenty of it in Canada), this situation is dierent. ESA licensing of electrical
contractors does exactly what the private sector has proven it cannot do: ensure that
only competent people handle electrical work and that homeowners dont need to lie
awake at night wondering whats happening in their electrical boxes.
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Fixing Burst Pipes the First Rite of Cottaging Season
Every spring, cottagers head back to their favourite lakeside retreats, filled with the
anticipation of peace, serenity and the cry of the loon. But before they can enjoy any
of these things, many face a frustrating, psychological ordeal: trial by water pipe.
Will it be you? It may. Let me prepare you to prevail.
Somewhere deep within hundreds of cottages across the country, a little bit of water
remained hidden in copper pipes after everyone thought the system was drained
back in the fall. This water froze during, expanded and the subsequent burst pipe lies
in wait for smiling, unsuspecting cottagers. This sinister condition sits ready to make
itself known with a cascading fountain of despair as the pump pressures up again,
wetting everything in sight.
My wife tells me that in the midst of lifes trials, what women really want is empathy,
not solutions. Im not so sure this applies to burst water pipes, though. When youre
50 miles from the nearest plumber, with a bunch of cranky kids lined up waiting to
use a bone-dry toilet, a solution is what we all want. Desperately. And to make that
happen you need a little bit of know-how, some simple materials and a few tools and
supplies. One new item, in particular, might even prevent you from burning your
cottage down while you complete the repair.
Fixing a burst copper water pipe involves three steps: cutting out the bad section,
preparing a piece of replacement pipe and couplings, then soldering these parts into
the system. Youll need about $20 worth of tools to make it all happen, and the first
item is something called a pipe cutter, though not the usual sort.
Existing pipes are almost always located close to framing members and other
building features, and this means theres rarely room to swing a regular pipe cutter.
Thats why your cottage plumbing repair kit should contain whats called a mini-
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cutter. It uses a hardened steel wheel to score the pipe (just like a regular cutter
does), but the cutter itself is very small. It needs less than an inch of clearance
around the pipe to work. Clamp it on the copper, spin it around while continuing to
tighten the pressure knob, and in less than a minute the pipe is cut.
With the bad section removed, its time to prepare fresh replacement pipe. Make it a
little shorter than the piece you removed so you can slip it into place with couplings
on each end. Even the smallest cottage-country hardware store carries the parts you
need, though you really should keep a supply on hand. Remember, the kids can only
hold it for so long.
Soldering is one of those jobs that seem more challenging than it really is. Success is
virtually guaranteed as long as you do three simple things: clean all joint surfaces with
sandpaper until they shine, apply a coat of plumbers flux to the joints before
assembly, then heat the pipe with a propane torch until the metal itself is hot enough
to melt the solder as its touched to the surface.
All of this is simple and risk-free, except for that business with the torch. With
tinder-dry wooden framing members and building parts typically located very close
to pipes, the risk of fire is real. And this is where something called Cold Coat can
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help. Its a spray-on gel that

forms a temporary, protective
coating around joists, wires,
plastic drainpipes and
subfloors. Ive used it, and this
stuff has to be seen to be
appreciated. In fact, it makes
it almost impossible to
accidentally ignite wood with a
torch. A bottle costs $10 at
Home Depot and Home Hardware.
While its true that some of the sweetest sounds in cottage country are the cry of the
loon or the laughter of kids as they jump of the dock. But before you can enjoy any of
these, you need to hear something else first. Perhaps the best thing of all is the
sound of the pressure switch as it shuts o the motor when the water tank gauge
reads a nice, steady 40-psi. Okay kids, the bathrooms all yours!
Plumbing & Electrical Q&As
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Silencing Noisy Pipes

Q: How can I silence my noisy water pipes? Every time the dishwasher, washing
machine, toilets or taps turn o, theres a loud thumping sound. I had a plumber
install water hammer arrestors in an upstairs bathroom, but the problem persists.
A: Water hammer arrestors are air chambers connected to plumbing pipes that are
designed to stop loud sounds that occur when some taps are shut o. The air
contained in them acts as a cushion that dampens internal vibrations that sometimes
develops when water flow is shut o abruptly. Trouble is, water hammer arrestors are
usually small, so they don't work much beyond the taps they're located near. They're
also dicult to install because they need to be placed very close to the troublesome
taps.
For whatever reason, you have a house-wide water hammer problem and that calls for
a house-wide solution. Anitem called a pressure tank can serve this purpose. These
are normally used as part of a water pump system for homes with wells, but a
pressure tank can also stop water hammer in your whole house. Simply install a 5- or
8-gallon pressure tank (the kind with an internal air diaphragm) as close as
conveniently possible to the spot where the water supply pipe enters your home. The
cushioning action of the air in the tank eliminates noise.
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Section 8
Indoor Air Quality
Eliminate Window Condensation and Enjoy Better Air

Every fall for the last decade Ive received emails from homeowners frantic about
condensation forming on their windows as the weather gets colder. But this year
somethings dierent. There are more requests for help than usual. Many more. I
dont know why, but I do know that the problem of sweaty windows is widespread
across Canada and its not getting better. In fact, the issue of window condensation
and the resulting mold growth is the single most perennial question I receive, despite
years of writing about successful solutions. And besides being common, window
condensation also indicates more of a problem than meets the eye. Its like the
proverbial canary in a mineshaft.
Whenever a window develops beads of water on the inside during cold weather, it
means that the surface of the glass has cooled enough to cause the moisture carried
in the indoor air to condense. The air itself is the source of the mysterious moisture,
and dealing with the air is where the best remedy will be found. A little bit of non-
running condensation around the edges of a window is normal during winter and
harmless, but when it advances enough to require a rag to mop up the water, you
need to find a solution. Just dont be fooled by appearances. Your windows probably
arent the cause of the problem.
New homes and recently renovated ones include features that keep warm air in and
drafts out. Thats good. Whats not so good is the other stu that tight construction
holds in: airborne contaminants and moisture. If your windows sweat a lot, it
indicates inadequate ventilation. Theres too much water in the air, and probably too
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many o-gassed contaminants, too. My favourite way of solving the water problem
automatically leads to much better indoor air quality.
All of this is why your best solution to window condensation

is a heat recovery ventilator (HRV). Its a ventilation
appliance that draws fresh outdoor air into your home, expels
moist, stale indoor air outside, while also retaining about
80% of the heat energy invested in the old air. Outdoor
wintertime air becomes bone dry when its brought inside
and heated up, and this is why HRVs are so eective at
reducing sweaty windows. They lower indoor humidity levels
like nothing else can. Leading HRVs also feature a replaceable
HEPA-rated filter that helps lower indoor levels of pollen and
some pollutants.
A l t h o u g h H RVs a r e t h e
technology of choice for
eliminating window
condensation, theyre not
cheap. The unit itself
t y p i c a l l y co s t s $ 1 0 0 0 to
$1500, with installation by a
ventilation technician costing
an additional $1000 or more.
All this is why some folks try
to solve their wet window
problem using a dehumidifier.
And while this seems logical, theres a problem. Two problems, in fact. Dehumidifiers
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cant lower relative humidity levels enough to prevent window condensation during
winter, and even if they could youd still only have dry, stale air.
Its understandable that the blame for wet windows would be cast on the windows
themselves, but this is rarely correct. In fact, one of the classic queries I get comes
from the homeowner who had new windows installed, only to find that condensation
is the same or worse. Condensation that gets worse after installing modern, multi-
pane windows is actually a good sign. It usually means that the new windows are
sealing better than the old ones. Drafts have been reduced, and indoor humidity
levels have risen as more moisture is being retained.
Will an HRV work in a home that has no ducts to distribute the fresh air? I
wondered the same thing 15 years ago. After failing to find anyone who would give
me a definitive answer, I went ahead and installed my own HRV in a second-story
storage area, with one stale air intake pipe going through the floor to draw air from
the level below, and one fresh air outlet leading into the second story room just
outside the storage area. The result has been excellent performance, despite no
ducts. Having the inlet and outlet on separate floors forces house-wide circulation.
Even in single-story homes, by strategically locating your HRV in the basement
(perhaps with a small amount of ducting) you can expect pretty good results.
Before you go ahead and commit to an HRV, check on a few things first. Is the
humidifier on your furnace turned o? No point in adding more moisture the air if
youve already got too much. Shutting o the humidifier may solve your problem.
Also, if your current windows have only one pane of glass, they may still sweat even
with an HRV on your side. With such low insulation properties, the glass surface will
remain a potent source of condensation because it gets so cold.
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You must also realize that unless you have windows with very good insulation
properties, youll probably have to make your home uncomfortably dry in order to
completely eliminate condensation. During very cold weather youll need to discover
the balancing point between comfort and a tolerable and harmless amount of
window condensation.
One thing thats easy to get used to is breathing fresher indoor air delivered by an
HRV. Experience it for yourself and youll be glad your wet windows told you there
was more of a problem than just damp glass.
Indoor Air Quality Q&As
Dealing With Window Condensation in a Condo

Q: How can I eliminate window condensation in a multi-story condominium unit?
Weve been experiencing lots of condensation for the seven years weve lived in the
building. Window replacement isnt an option since theyre considered common
elements in this building.
A: Judging by the number of emails I get every winter, condensation on condo

windows is a big issue. And while you can't solve this problem by installing a heat
recovery ventilator (as you could in a house), there are other things worth trying.
The ventilation systems on most multi-story condominiums are designed to move

fresh air into hallway areas, then into each individual unit through the gap
underneath the entry door. Trouble is, carpets and rugs often block the space
underneath the door, preventing proper air movement through each unit. Besides
making sure that the under-door gap is open, run exhaust fans and range hoods
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frequently. You should also contact the property manager to see if adjustments to the
ventilation system can be made.
Better Dryer Vent Q&A

Q: Whats your take on the EcoVent dryer vent? I understand the need for a vent
that eectively keeps out cold air, but Im concerned about the foam ball that acts as
a valve inside this product. Wont it wear out after a few years? Carpenter ants usually
love foam. Wont they tunnel into the vent? Is flammability of the foam an issue?
A: We've been using an EcoVent (made by Broan)

since 2001 or so, and it works as good as new. Instead
of relying on a plastic flap to keep cold air out (a
widely used design that simply doesnt work), a foam
ball drops down whenever the dryer isnt running,
blocking the hole as it does. Our unit continues to
seal out air as completely as necessary in this
application. We've never had any insect infestation,
nor any trouble with fire. The only issue had to do
with the plastic shroud that encases the foam
components inside. Occasionally this shroud falls o,
leaving the foam exposed. Dab a few blobs of
construction adhesive on the foam before replacing
the shroud and it stays in place permanently.
Flimsy Vent Pipes

Q: What should I make of the flimsy, plastic-covered pipes my contractor used when
installing a new heating system? He calls them ducts, but they look like a big dryer
vent covered with insulation and garbage bag plastic. The only ducts I know of are
made of metal. Whats your take on the stu Ive got?
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A: I've seen and used the kind of flexible ducts you describe on installations where
cold, outside air is involved. The built-in insulation and vapour barrier are great, but
the product is also very flimsy indeed. It's actually quite easy to puncture the thin
plastic outer sleeve.
Whenever I install flexible, insulated duct in exposed

locations, I shield and support it behind traditional
metal ducting used in an unusual way. Dont snap
together the central seam along the length of metal
duct, but leave it open, just as it comes from the
store. In this form the metal duct resembles a trough
that enshrouds the vulnerable, flexible duct after it's
installed. You can then anchor the metal duct to the
surrounding framing members with screws or metal
straps.
Window Condensation and Mold Control

Q: Our landlord recently put in new windows and theyre covered in condensation
like never before. Whats causing this? Caulking around the windows now has mould
on it, as do the window sills. The landlord insists that the windows be left open to
cut down on the condensation, but whats the point in having new windows if you
have to leave them open? Are these windows installed improperly?
A: Ive got good news and bad news. Your new windows definitely seal better than
the ones you used to have. Trouble is, this boost in sealing action is also responsible
for the increased condensation youre plagued with. Here's why.
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Wintertime window condensation comes from cooking, showering and breathing.

The fact that condensation wasnt a problem with your old windows, can only mean
that they leaked enough to let this moisture escape harmlessly. Your new windows
seal better, retaining enough additional moisture in the house to condense on the
cold surface of the glass. And while it's true that opening your windows and running
exhaust fans a lot can lower indoor humidity levels, youre right in saying that this
defeats the whole purpose of new windows in the first place. The once-and -for-all
solution is to install a heat recovery ventilator (HRV). This brings dry outdoor air
into your home, but not before heating it with the
energy reclaimed from the outgoing stream of warm
stale indoor air. While you're trying to convince your
landlord to spend the $2000-$2500 on an HRV, you
need something to help kill and clean up the mold.
Although bleach and water solution is sometimes
used for this, its harsh, both on your body and the
surfaces youre cleaning. A more environmentally
sound option that Ive used is a product called
Concrobium. It's a unique, non-toxic, spray-on
liquid that kills mold spores permanently by
crushing them out, then inhibits re-growth for about
3 months.
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Section 9
Energy Eciency & Technologies
Better Kind of Batt Insulation

Last year at this time I was in the middle of a nasty home-improvement job that
ended up introducing me to a better way to insulate. A small attic space needed a
dozen new recessed light fixtures, and that meant I had to cut access holes into the
ceiling, wiggle my body into impossibly tight spaces covered by existing fiberglass
insulation, then run new electrical cables before buttoning everything up again. It
was the itch and airborne dust of the fiberglass I dreaded most, and my fears were
completely legitimate.
Even wearing tight-cued coveralls and a dust mask, I was reminded again why I
dislike working with fiberglass so much. As the new fixtures went in, I needed more
insulation to do a neat job, and that's what prompted me to buy something other
than fiberglass to fill disturbed areas. I'd heard from contractor friends that Roxul
was better, and that made me curious enough to try it. I now know exactly what they
mean.
Plenty of experience has shown me that rigid, foam-based insulation products work
best in many situations. Trouble is, you can't always use foam. Sometimes flexible
batts are the only practical way to go, though not all products are the same.
There are two reasons why I immediately liked using Roxul: personal comfort and
superior workability. Roxul batts are noticeably denser than other batts and less
prone to releasing fibers into the air. In fact, you can take a piece of Roxul, rip it
apart with your hands in strong sunlight and almost nothing can be seen floating
around in the air. With very few loose fibers falling o, there's also nothing to irritate
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your skin, either. The firm consistency of Roxul means it slices precisely and is easy
to fit snugly into existing spaces without sagging -- a perennial problem with other
fiber-based insulation materials.
Roxul is made by heating basalt rock and slag until it's liquid, then spinning the
material into thin fibers as it cools and solidifies. The process reminds me of how
they make cotton candy, though the basalt version has characteristics that the sweet
pink stu on a stick does not.
In tests I completed my shop, Roxul

proved to be surprisingl y water
repellent. You can pour water right on
top and it simply beads up and rolls
away. Sure, you can get Roxul to
absorb water, but you have to work
pretty hard at it. The whole issue of
water absorbency matters when it
comes to insulation because
sometimes roofs leak. And when drips land on traditional, fiber-based insulation, it
simply goes soggy and collapses under its own weight, losing most insulating
properties in the process.
Greater batt density oers other advantages, too. It reduces the movement of air
through the insulation, boosting energy performance in situations where a building
envelope might not be completely sealed. Reduced air movement through fibers also
reduces the tendency for condensation to build up within batts during cold winter
weather.
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As it turns out, the best tool for slicing Roxul is not a utility knife. A serrated bread
knife works better. The extra density and firmness of the product is why. You can
easily measure and cut accurately to within less than a quarter of an inch, making for
precise installations that permit no air leakage around batt edges.
You'd think that all these advantages would have to come at a higher cost, but not
necessarily so. Comparing prices of Roxul and fiberglass with given R values, relative
costs per square foot are slightly more or slightly less for each type, depending on
market conditions. For most jobs, price dierences are so small they dont matter
nearly as much as a more pleasant working experience, a better installation and
superior energy performance.
LED Bulbs Coming to a Fixture Near You

We Canadians use more energy per capita than any other nation in the world, but our
opportunities for repentance are on the rise. LED lights oer one such glimmer of
hope. The acronym stands for 'light emitting diode', and this technology uses the
tiniest fraction of energy consumed by conventional incandescent and fluorescent
bulbs for a given amount of light output. LED technology is poised to boost the
energy eciency and reliability of area lighting in a big way. Poised, but not quite
there yet for all applications.
Until four or five years ago, the predominant place you'd see LEDs was the
illuminated read-out screens of VCRs, microwaves and the occasional ancient
calculator from the 1970s. The first high profile breakout from these traditional uses
was Christmas lights. Nowadays, an entire string of colorful LED lights uses less
energy than a single incandescent holiday bulb did from yesteryear. The working life
of LED lights is measured in tens of thousands of hours, too. They last and last and
last. All this got me watching and waiting to see how long it would take before LED
bulbs became available for serious, interior lighting applications. We don't have to
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wait for the technology anymore, though high LED prices remain a stumbling block,
at least for now.
LED bulbs are so ecient because they produce light in an entirely dierent way
than other kinds of bulbs. Instead of using electricity to heat up a metal filament, for
instance, LEDs produce light by channeling an electric current through a
semiconductor material. This approach converts almost 100% of the electricity into
light, with virtually no waste heat produced.
It's now possible to buy LED equivalents for various types of household and specialty
light fixtures that were originally designed for much less ecient bulbs. You won't
see many of these new LED bulbs on hardware store shelves in a big way yet, but
leading Canadian specialty suppliers are beginning to oer a growing line-up of
promising LED bulbs. One such pioneer is Michael Salerno.
Salerno left 20 years in corporate Canada to start AllPurposeLEDs.com

(416-889-2719 ), one of a handful of LED bulb suppliers that are emerging as this
technology becomes cheaper and more eective.
"At the moment, ambient or accent LED lightingis the most suitable use for
average homeowners because the cost of LED bulbs is high relative to their output",
explains Salerno.
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The price of an MR16 LED to replace a

traditional halogen design runs from $35-$60 for a
single bulb. That's about five to eight times more
money than halogen, but the LED lasts 20 to 25
times longer while using 90% less energy. Facts
like these are why LEDs do make especially good
sense in applications where lights stay on a lot,
where the heat build-up of traditional bulbs is a problem, or where it's dicult to
change bulbs after they burn out.
"Commercial-residential applications are one area where lights are switched ON in

hallways, stairwells or elevators 24-7, for example. LEDs make good sense here.
Theyre also useful for exterior residential applications. They last for years and
function well in cold temperatures. In our studies, we've even found that unlike
halogens, fluorescents and incandescent bulbs, LEDs don't attract insects. They dont
emit UV rays, either, so LEDs wont cause fading of fabrics and surfaces.
All the changes that ripple through our modern world can be traced back to the
same, basic dynamic: a new pressure that triggers a subsequent response. LED
lighting is a response to the pressures were all feeling as energy costs rise. The
cheap, convenient and plentiful sources of energy we've built our world upon are
starting to crumble. We've also developed a keener sense of the hidden costs of our
extravagant energy use. Some day, our kids and grandkids will smile and shake their
heads as we tell them about light bulbs in the olden days that burned so hot you
couldn't touch them. Changes like these are a lot closer than you might think.
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Canadian Heat Reflectors Effective and Free (in Ontario)

Maureen Armstrong lives in a large, beautiful, older home thats terrific in every way
but one. It was built in the 1930s, and includes hand-quarried limestone on the
outside, cinnamon-brown oak trim and wainscoting on the inside, all nestled onto a
lovely tree-covered lot with an east-facing view above the sparkling waters of Lake
Hurons North Channel. This place is gorgeous, except for the heating bills. Theyre
too large to discuss publicly, but thats where an innovative, Canadian heat reflector
product can help.
Like many vintage homes in Canada, Maureens place is heated by classic hot water
radiators, and while this system does yield a gentle, comfortable heat, its also
responsible for a tremendous amount of hidden heat loss through the exterior walls
theyre installed next to. Insulation levels in homes built before the 1980s are low
enough that wall surfaces become quite cold to the touch during harsh, winter
weather. This literally draws heat away from the rads before it ever gets to the room.
Reducing this large and unnecessary waste is the reason why Novitherm Heat
Reflectors (www.novitherm.com; 800-871-0079) were invented, and you may be one
of the many Canadian homeowners who are currently eligible to receive enough
reflectors for your entire house, all for nothing more than a $25 shipping fee.
Novitherm reflectors are made of

l i g h t w e i g h t P VC w i t h a s h i n y,
aluminum coating on the outside face.
This reflects more than 90 percent of
the radiant energy back into the room
and away from the wall, without
actually getting hot to the touch at
all. The reflectors themselves are 1 cm
in depth, and can be installed in
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spaces as narrow a 2 cm. They nestle together compactly for shipping and are
anchored to exterior walls using double-sided tape. Thats it. The reflectors last
indefinitely (the oldest ones in use today were installed in the 1980s, and are still
going strong), delivering energy savings of at least 10% according to results from field
trials conducted on multi-residential units. Results with single family dwellings may
be more or less than this.
Maureen doesnt consider herself particularly handy, yet she found the Novitherm
panels easy to install. They come custom-sized for each particular rad, based on
measurements you take yourself and submit with your order. If any reflectors need
cutting, ordinary scissors work perfectly. When it comes to installation, the only
critical issue is sealing. In order to perform eectively, the perimeter of each reflector
needs to be sealed tightly against the wall. The Novitherm system comes with
narrow rolls of double-sided tape that make it easy to succeed. If your rads are too
close to the wall to get your finger down behind to press the reflectors tightly into
place, the kit also comes with a bamboo stick made especially for this job.
The normal price of the 15 reflectors Maureen needed for her house is $150, including
tape and all taxes. But for the remainder of this year, Enbridge Gas customers with
hot water rad-equipped homes built before 1980 are eligible to receive reflectors for
free, up to a maximum of 39 reflectors per household. All you need to pay is the flat-
rate shipping cost. Follow the links on the Novitherm website for an order form, or
call Enbridge at 888-GAS-8888.
To realize the greatest energy savings after installing rad reflectors, you need to turn
down your boiler thermostat, not your room thermostat. With the reflectors in place,
water will return to your boiler hotter than before, requiring less energy to be added
before heading back out into your rooms.
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Theres no trick to building brand new homes that use less than 25 percent of the
energy required by older structures. Todays best building technologies make this goal
easily achievable with changes to just a few fundamental design details. Whats more
dicult is raising the energy performance of Canadas large stock of existing houses.
This requires many dierent, smaller technical fixes, including heat reflectors behind
rads and diligent people willing to take the time to put them in place. With $100 a
barrel oil and growing eects of global warming, isnt it time we got serious?
Photovoltaics Poised to Become Competitive

I finally know what I'm going to be when I grow up, and it's the same career I
decided on 30 years ago, then abandon. When I graduated from high school in the
late 1970s, I knew for sure that the world needed energy. And since oil was obviously
going to run out, I enrolled in George Brown College to become an alternative
energy guru. Photovoltaics (PV) was one of my favorite topics. That's those flat
panels you put in the sun to make electricity directly, without any moving parts. But
there was one thing I didn't realize as
a brand-new college student. Except
perhaps for calculators, the world
w a s n't seriously ready for
photovoltaics back then. In fact, the
situation wouldn't change until PV
became cheaper and oil became
significantly more expensive. I was
obviously too early in my career
planning, but both those two trends have been happening lately, big-time. According
to a report issued by the Washington-based Earth Policy Institute this past
December, the magic moment when the cost of photovoltaic electricity drops to
meet the price of fossil fuel production is just two years away. No one's talking about
this much, but it has huge and bright implications for the future.
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The production of PV panels worldwide has skyrocketed by about 48% a year each
year since 2002. Right now there's enough PV generated electricity in the world to
power 2.4 million modern homes. And while this is still a drop in the bucket
compared to the world's total energy needs, you'll be hearing more about
photovoltaics in the near future. One reason is the huge potential.
Enough solar energy shines on the earth during a 40 minute period of time to power
the entire world economy for a year. We only need to harness a tiny portion of this
sunshine to make a huge dierence in the world: environmentally, politically and
economically. Production of PV electricity is not dependent on warm temperatures,
either. All it requires is open space and sunshine -- both of which Canada has in
abundance, especially, as it turns out, in those parts of western Canada now enjoying
a fossil fuel boom.
All of this has several long-term implications for you as a homeowner, and the first
has to do with the greening of electricity as an energy source. It used to be that
electricity came to us at a very high (though somewhat hidden) environmental cost.
As wind generation is joined by sources of competitively priced photovoltaic power,
electricity will truly become a clean source of energy. We might even see electricity
becoming the most socially responsible way to heat our homes.
Accessibility to electric power is another thing that cheap photovoltaics will change.
Industry analysts believe that the price of photovoltaics will drop to $1 per installed
watt by 2010. This would make the development of remote building sites and
cottages less expensive and less visually disruptive as cables and pole line
deforestation become unnecessary.
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A lot has to change before a significant amounts of PV electricity is available on the

grid. Besides the job of converting electricity directly from sunlight with
photovoltaics, there's the issue of building special transmission lines to deliver that
power. That said, the fact that PV power is poised to become competitive in world
energy markets is terrific and encouraging news. Its also being used to good
advantage by the most progressive countries. In March 2007, Spain began requiring
all new, non-residential buildings to generate a portion of their electricity needs via
photovoltaics. China is poised to become the world's largest producer of
photovoltaic cells this year. Germany now boasts more than 300,000 buildings with
PV capability, and while it's true that this is a product of government subsidies, these
probably won't be necessary for very much longer. Too bad for me it all took 30 years
too long to happen.
Danger-Free Hot Water

The warning labels on hot water heaters may be hazardous to your peace of mind,
but that doesn't mean you shouldn't read them. In fact, more people need to. Typical
hot tap water is probably much more dangerous than you imagined. More
dangerous, but also easily tamed when you recognize key information and two little
known pieces of equipment.
According to the Public Health Agency of Canada, the 60C water delivered by most
heaters can cause severe burns in a matter of seconds. Drop that temperature back
just a little to 49C, and it takes two full minutes of skin contact before the same
degree of burning occurs. All this sounds great, until you actually lower the
thermostat on your water heater. Have you ever tried it? That's when you'll notice
how much more quickly you run out of hot water. A lower tank temperature means
you need to mix proportionally more cold with hot water to get water that's just right
for showering, washing dishes and running hot loads in the washing machine. Then
there's the physical dangers of running your hot water tank too cool. Temperatures
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lower than 49C can allow the growth of harmful bacteria, including the kind that
causes Legionnaires Disease. But there is a way to make your taps virtually burn-
proof and bacteria proof, while also retaining a full measure of hot water when you
need it. The trick is a small piece of hardware sometimes called a mixing valve or
tempering valve.
I just finished installing a new hot water tank at my house, along with a mixing valve.
The model I bought is made by Watts, and cost about $90 at Home Hardware. This
sounds expensive until you see the unit. It's heavy duty, all-brass and comes with the
fittings you need to connect to 3/4" diameter pipe.
All mixing valves work the same way.

Scalding hot water directly from the
tank is combined with a controlled
amount of cold water in the valve
itself, depending on how you have it
adjusted. The fully hot water in the
tank lasts a long time and remains
sterile, without ever getting directly to
your taps and causing danger. You dial
in whatever temperature you want for the hot side of your water system. The Watts
valve I used has a locking feature to prevent the temperature control knob from
being tampered with.
But not everyone has mechanical access to the source of their hot water. If you live
in an apartment building or condo, what flows out is what you get as far as hot water
goes. Or perhaps you need very hot water from some taps in your house, while only
needed tempered water in the bathrooms. This is where something called HotStop
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can help. It's a line of anti-scald shower heads and tub spouts that automatically shut
o the flow of water when it gets dangerously hot.
We've been using the HotStop shower head at my place for a couple of weeks now,
and it does everything it claims to. Turn the hot water on full, and just about the
time it's getting too hot to tolerate, the water trickles to a halt all by itself. A minute
or so later, after the shower head cools, water starts flowing again. It's simple, safe,
and costs less than $50. My only complaint is the angle of the shower head in
relation to the handle. Used with a separate hose, as we do, the geometry isn't quite
ideal at our place. Right now, you'll find HotStop at Lowe's stores.
Hot water is one of the essentials of civilized life, but it also causes a lot of
unnecessary suering each year. It doesnt have to be this way at your place. A little
understanding and a little equipment goes a long way to keep your hot water flowing
without getting you into the kind of hot water that nobody likes.
Tankless Water Heaters Make Sense, Though Not For All

Last month I wrote about installing a new tank-style water heater at my house, which
made more than a few people wonder why I'd opt for such antiquated technology.
All the talk these days is about the energy savings oered by tankless water heaters
and their compact size. My choice seems even more bizarre when you realize that I
like tankless heaters a lot. I'm convinced this technology is ideal for many homes.
Trouble is, you need to understand a few issues up front before spending a lot of time
considering a tankless system for your own place. I know because I've wrestled with
these issues several times, and they always turned out to be deal breakers.
Tankless water heaters save energy by eliminating standby losses associated with
traditional, tank-style heaters. Even with excellent insulation around the tank,
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energy is inevitably lost to the surrounding air over the course of time, even when
you don't use any hot water. Tankless systems, on the other hand, heat water only as
you demand it by turning on the tap. That's why these units are sometimes called 'on
demand' water heaters.
At the moment there are two kinds of tankless systems on the market: electric and
gas-fired. Both types can work well, but the logistics of installation sometimes poses
problems that aren't always easy to see ahead of time.
The big challenge faced by any kind of tankless water heater is the short time
available for delivering thermal energy to the stream of cold water flowing through
the unit. To be useful in a typical household situation, a tankless heater must be able
to raise the temperature of 20 L of water by a whopping 50C in just one minute.
That's a huge energy transfer, and it's the Achilles' heel of electric tankless heaters.
As electricians have told me on several occasions, my 200-amp electrical service isnt

suciently large to handle the demands of a tankless electric heater along with all
the other electrical loads connected to it. But even if it had been, I'd still be cautious
about installing an electric tankless heater because of probable changes in the way
electricity will be metered in the future. Right now residential customers only pay for
the total quantity of electricity used, with no special premium applied to peak
demand. But the huge current required by electric tankless heaters during operation
is taxing on the grid, and something that the authorities will likely discourage in the
future when smart metering systems are implemented.
Then there's the issue of how much hot water an electric tankless system can actually
provide. For the various models I've investigated, water temperature would probably
drop to lukewarm whenever more than a couple of hot water taps were turned on at
the same time. Who wants that?
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The huge, short-term energy demands of a tankless heater make gas a much more
practical energy source than electricity. Trouble is, not all of us have convenient
access to gas. I don't, and though I could've opted for a propane fired tankless
heater, that choice would have required the installation of an outdoor propane tank
and supply lines. I almost considered doing this, too, then I remembered how very
easy it is to fix a tank style water heater, and how troubleshooting any kind of
tankless system requires a specialized technician. That did it for me.
All this said, I'm convinced that tankless water heaters are a great idea in many
situations. The technology behind gas-fired systems is mature and ecient. Most
units are about half the volume of a Blue Box and they operate quietly enough that
theyre practical to install just about anywhere. Too bad my place isnt one of them.
Swiss Clothes Drying Racks Make It Easy to Be Green

You can tell a lot about a society by the quality of indoor clothes drying racks it sells.
When youve got a population seriously committed to household conservation and
eciency, youll find excellent drying racks in stores everywhere. But when youve
got a society thats largely ignorant of the hidden costs of running every wet article of
clothing through a power-gobbling dryer, youll find stores littered with $1.98 drying
racks that bend, break and collapse. Sadly, over the last three or four decades, Canada
has become a cheap-drying-rack-kind-of-place, though I think this is beginning to
change. Lets hope so.
No other appliance in your home uses more electricity per hour of operation than a
dryer. You can run a 40-watt light bulb for more than 65 hours on the electricity
consumed during just one 45-minute dryer cycle. Over-consumption of electricity is
not only financially expensive for each of us as individuals, but its also driving our
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governments to consider devils-bargain options for boosting electric generation

capacity.
But if availability of high-quality drying racks is any indication, perhaps our

homegrown addiction to dryer over-use may finally be breaking. Im pinning my
hopes on a new-to-Canada line of Swiss-made drying
racks that have been quietly refined and perfected in the
land of the Alps for the last 55 years. Theyre impressive,
eective and promise to bring a whole new level of
legitimacy to the practice of indoor clothes drying.
The brand is called Stewi (888-763-5928;

www.stenicproducts.com), and youll find these drying
racks in hotels, homes and institutions all across Europe.
Stewis are undisputedly the very best drying racks in the
world, and when you properly consider what they deliver,
the prices are surprisingly good, too.
All this is good news to me, because over the last twenty years Ive been searching in
vain for good clothes drying racks. And Ive always come up short, at least until now.
Observant visitors to my house would no-doubt have noticed two decrepit indoor
clothes-drying racks bandaged with every conceivable method of repair. Broken
rungs have been welded, tie-wrapped, taped and replaced with pieces of 5/16-inch
dowel. The way I figure it, whats the point in buying a new piece of junk for $50
(destined to break in a week anyway) when I can fix the old junk for free?
Thankfully, our junk racks are in the recycling system now, replaced with a couple of
cool Stewis that make me feel great just looking at them. We certainly use our
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outdoor clothesline whenever weather permits, but when its cold and wet outside,
these indoor racks take up the slack quite nicely.
The model we use for bathroom towels is similar in shape to the scissor-legged
basket-case we tolerated for years, except that the Swiss model is infinitely stronger
and the rack area expands and contracts in length, depending on how much hanging
room you need. This particular design is called the Combi Maxi (about $150), and the
biggest dierence between our old rack and this one is the design of the hanging
rungs themselves. Instead of flimsy, breakage-prone, spot-welded steel rods, the
Combi Maxi uses rigid, corrosion-proof rungs anchored directly into tubular
aluminum cross members. One quick look and youve got to ask yourself if theres
anything that the Swiss dont take seriously.
Its not just durability that continues to impress me about Stewis, its also design.
Case in point: two elegant, space-saving, ceiling-mounted racks. My favourite is
called the Lift (about $90). Simply release a cord and the drying frame drops down
about 3 1/2 feet. Clip your wet clothes on the rack, then pull the cord again and the
whole thing rises to ceiling height, keeping the floor area clear.
When I think about how a good drying rack makes it so much easier to minimize
dryer use, Im reminded that many of our environmentally expensive habits would be
easier to kick if we just had elegant, frugal (and preferably cool) alternatives. And
while indoor drying racks arent going to completely neutralized the greenhouse gas
threat, or eliminate the need to reconfigure our electrical system to handle a growing
population, isnt it still true that every little bit helps?
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Energy Eciency & Technologies Q&As
Foam Injection Insulation?

Q: Is foam injection a good way to boost the energy eciency of my brick house? Its
about 60 years old, and the outer walls are double brick with nothing but an open air
space between them.
A: A lot of uninsulated brick homes like yours were built immediately after World
War II, but from everything I've seen, adding eective insulation to the air space
between inner and outer bricks isn't as easy as it looks. The challenge is always the
same. The space involved can be narrow, and is often partially blocked by blobs of
mortar that fell down during construction, then hardened. All this can prevent
injected foam from filling the wall cavity completely, leaving hollow and uninsulated
areas. On the other hand, the only practical alternative to injection involves adding
rigid sheets of insulation to the interior surface of exterior walls, and that's a big and
disruptive pain.
So here's what I recommend: Find a contractor willing to assess the eectiveness of

their insulation injection using an infrared camera. This imaging technology allows
dierences in heat loss to be seen visually on a screen. If hollow, inecient areas in
exterior walls are detected after the first round of injection, they can be marked and
additional foam injected as needed.
Insulating a Cathedral Ceiling the Right Way

Q: How can I boost insulation in a cathedral ceiling? I've been advised to upgrade
insulation levels to R30 or R40. Presently theres only 4 inches (100 mm) of
pink fiberglass between 2x4 rafters, all covered with drywall, giving a value of R15.
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A: Insulation upgrades sound simple in theory, but they sometimes involve tricky
circumstances like yours.With no attic space available, theres only one practical
option. Adding layers of rigid foam to the existing ceiling, then covering it with
drywall is an excellent approach that I know works well. It'll provide amazing
thermal performance and installing it with a layer of drywall over top won't be
terribly disruptive to domestic life. The only trouble is the long length of screws
needed to secure the drywall over top of the 4 inches (100 mm) of foam required to
add R20. They'd have to be a whopping 6 inches (150 mm)long. And though screws
like these aren't readily available, there's a modified 'sandwich' approach that works
well with conventional screws.
Start by using construction adhesive to secure a 2-inch (50 mm) layer of foam against
the ceiling. This glue won't have to hold any weight; itjust keeps the foam up for
the next steps. Cover this foam witha layer of 7/16-inch (10 mm) oriented strand
board (OSB), anchored with 4-inch (100 mm) screws that go through the foam and
into the roof frame. Add another layer of 2-inch (50 mm) foam on top of the OSB,
then put your drywall on top, anchored with 3 1/2-inch (90 mm) screws. You won't
easily find drywall screws this long, but thats okay. I know from experience that
ordinary deck screws work fine for anchoring drywall over foam.
Reflective Foil Insulation

Q: What's your opinion on foil bubble wrap for insulating exterior walls? I installed
some on the inside surfaces of the outside walls on my 50-year-old house. Even
though this product carries no R-value rating, its making the walls obviously warmer
to the touch. Should I use it again?
A: I'm familiar with reflective foil barriers and I've used them before. They're an
energy conservation product that works by 'shining' back the transfer of radiant
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energy as opposed to blocking the conductive transfer of heat, as happens with

conventional foam and fiber insulation products. The reason reflective foil barriers
don't typically carry R-values is because their numbers are so low -- usually less than
R-1. And while this sounds laughably low, it doesn't mean that reflective foil barriers
have nothing to oer. In fact, they do, though I'm convinced they work best in
conjunction with more typical insulation materials.
Think of reflective foil insulation like a parasol at the beach on a sunny day. The R-
value of the fabric itself is almost negligible, yet you remain obviously cooler in its
shade. This is the benefit of radiant reflection. In retrofit applications such as yours,
you'll get best results if you apply a one- or two-inch thick layer of rigid foam to the
inside surfaces of exterior walls. Cover this with a layer of reflective foil barrier, then
apply a fresh layer of drywall on top of everything. Anchor this drywall with screws
that extend into the wall frame of the house, then finish the joints and screw heads
with compound as usual. Since reflective foil barriers have only a small R-value on
their own, they won't satisfy building code requirements for insulation. That said,
theyre especially useful in reducing summer time room temperatures by reflecting
heat from hot attic spaces. Simply lay the foil over top of existing insulation as it sits
on the attic floor.
Reducing Hot Water Consumption

Q: How can I stop my three teenagers from taking really, really long showers? We've
tried begging, guilt trips and timers. Is there some kind of device that automatically
shuts o water flow after a certain period of time?
A: We've got a couple of teenagers at our house, and they used to take long showers.
But lately they've become much more responsible after we explained how costly it is
to the environment when they use more hot water than necessary. That said, it
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sounds like you might have already tried something like this. If wise words haven't
worked, try installing a low-flow shower head. Besides reducing the amount of water
consumed, low-flow equipment also makes showering considerably less enjoyable,
despite manufacturer claims to the contrary. Look for a unit that delivers 2 1/2
gallons of water per minute or less, and show your kids that their wasteful habits are
so extreme theyve made it to the newspaper.
Vapour Barrier in a Garage

Q: Do I need a vapour barrier when insulating my garage? Id like to have loose-fill
insulation blown into hollow wall cavities, but Im concerned since therell be no
vapour barrier underneath the drywall.
A: Polyethylene plastic is usually used as a vapour barrier under drywall to prevent

interior moisture from diusing through wall surfaces and condensing inside cold
wall cavities during winter. That said, there are other ways to make this happen.
Properly taped and painted drywall acts as a reasonable vapour barrier, too. Natural
Resources Canada is just one technical authority that makes this claim. Will you be
heating your garage to household standards, or just heating it occasionally? Will there
be showering, cooking or other moisture-producing activities going on? If your place
won't be heated a lot, and there won't be lots of moisture generated, then you can be
even more sure that a properly sealed drywall surface will prevent condensation from
occurring within wall cavities.
Insulating Ventilation Ducts

Q: How should I insulate the heating and cooling ducts that run through the attic of
my 1950s bungalow? The ducts run across the tops of ceiling joists and are exposed
to cold in the winter and the heat in the summer. Im planning to build a plywood
box around the ducts, then insulate this with fiberglass. Is this a good plan?
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A: Youre right to be concerned. As it stands now, youre wasting a lot of energy, both
in summer and winter. But successfully insulating ducts in your situation isn't as
straightforward as it seems. And the reason has to do with the potential for
condensation during warm weather. It's one thing to prevent heat loss from ducts in
winter, as they pass through the cold attic space. But in the summer, when the attic
becomes warm and humid, and the ducts are chilled as they transport conditioned
air, the outside of the metal will begin to sweat and foster mold growth. The key to
preventing this, is to stop any of the warm, moist attic air from coming in contact
with the cold duct surface. And in order to do this, you'll need to avoid the use of
any kind of fiber-based insulation. Instead of building a plywood box around the
ducts, as you had planned, consider encasing the ducts completely in 2-inch-thick
extruded polystyrene foam board. The best approach involves gluing pieces of this
foam to the outside of the ducts with construction adhesive. You'd also need to be
very careful to seal the joints between pieces of rigid foam using spray-on foam from
a can. You'll need to create an airtight insulation layer around the entire length of the
ducts that exist in the attic. Do this, and you'll enjoy excellent energy performance
year-round, with no condensation during summer.
Ground Source Heat Pump?

Q: Should I install a ground source heat pump in the new house Im building? My
heating contractor tells me that the largest unit he has only puts out 64 000 btu/hr
of heat, and that seems low enough that I might need some kind of backup system.
Another concern I have is the dry gravel soil on my site. It's not the wet clay that's
preferred, so longer ground loops have been quoted. Is a ground source heat pump
worth the cost and expense in my situation? Should stick with a propane boiler and
conventional A/C?
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A: Ground source heat pumps gather and

concentrate heat energy from the earth
and deliver it to your home, but to make
a proper purchasing decision you need to
complete a heat loss calculation. Any
reputable heating contractor will have
computer software that allows design
specs for your new home to be entered
and analyzed. The resulting output is a
figure for the maximum amount of heat your home will lose at a given minimum
expected temperature. Whichever heating equipment you settle on should be able to
cover this heat load, plus an extra margin for safety. From the sounds of it, you should
speak to several more heating contractors. I do know that very large buildings are
successfully heated with ground source heat pumps, so I question the small size of
the 64,000 BTU/hr unit that's being recommended to you.
You also need to do some rough cost calculations of your own. In ideal situations,
ground source heat pumps deliver about three units of heat energy to your home for
every one unit of electrical energy they consume. This accounts for their legendary
eciency, but I do have concerns about the dry, well-drained soil conditions you have
on your site. Do your best to determine the total annual energy consumption figure
for your home, then translate this number into a ballpark annual cost of operation
for the various heating options you're considering. A ground source heat pump will
probably oer the lowest cost of operation, but that's only part of the equation. Itll
also be much more expensive than other options to install. Be sure to include the
amortized cost of installing all equipment, and the annual interest you're not earning
on that money as you compare various options.
Replace Electric Heaters?
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Q: Are electric baseboard heaters manufactured in the last two or three years more
energy ecient that those made 30 years ago? Im renovating my home and wonder if
I should upgrade. Id like to switch to gas, but have no basement for a furnace and no
access to a gas supply.
A: Although most technical equipment in our world has become more energy
ecient, that's not the case with electric heaters. They can't get more ecient. The
laws of thermodynamics prevent it. Even the most primitive electric heaters are
100% ecient in terms of how much of the electrical energy that goes into them
comes out as heat. As long as your 30-year old heaters function properly and safely,
there's no practical reason to change them.
To understand why this surprising fact is true, you need to realize that all forms of
energy eventually turn completely into heat. Think of it like a ski slope. The
electricity that's available in your wall socket or the chemical energy in your car's gas
tank is higher up the slope of quality because you can use these forms of energy for
so many things. But eventually, as you use them to power your computer, or light
your home or propel your car, they all degrade into heat during the process. Heat is
the bottom of the quality slope in the thermodynamic world. Every form of energy
eventual degrades into heat that's dissipated into the cold, black universe. In the case
of your electric heaters, you're taking electrical energy at the top of the slope and
converting it directly into heat at the bottom. And every last watt is happy to go
there. So dont be fooled by deceitful marketing claims that suggest increased
eciency from some types of electric heaters.
Log Home Energy Performance
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Q: What kind of energy performance will a log home deliver? A friend is considering
buying a house made with 16-inch x 16-inch logs (40 cm x 40 cm) and needs some
insight.
A: Thick logs are a pretty good insulator,

despite what seem like ho-hum insulation
numbers. Softwood has an R-value of about
R-1 per inch (2.54 cm). This means the walls
in the home in question oer about R-16.
And while this isnt much dierent than a
conventional stud frame wall, real world
p e r f o r m a n c e i s t y p i c a l l y b e t t e r.
Insulation provided by logs is continuous
across the whole wall surface, compared
with the thermal bridging caused by the studs and plates in a frame wall. This design
factor means that 10% to 20% of the surface of a stud frame wall oers only about
R-5.5. That said, the Achilles Heel of log homes is air leakage between the logs. Even
the tiniest gaps between logs will make a log home virtually unheatable. If there's a
problem there, a product called Permachink is the industry standard for permanently
sealing joints between logs.
Section 10
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Roofs, Attics & Exterior Walls
Unconventional Wall Siding Ideal for Informal, DIY Applications

Choosing exterior wall siding isnt as easy as it seems. At least not if you want
something that looks attractive, is cheap and easy to install, oers good durability
and blends into a natural setting around a lake or forested building site. I was first
faced with a choice like this more than 15 years ago, and I opted for something
unusual thats worked perfectly ever since. Funny thing is, this siding isnt even
designed for walls at all.
A few manufacturers make interlocking asphalt roof

shingles and they offer all the benefits of an
informal, DIY-friendly siding choice. The last
bunch I put up were made by IKO. They cost about
60 cents a square foot, they go up easily and theyre
great in situations where low-cost options like vinyl
look too suburban.
Interlocking shingles are made of the same organic

asphalt composition used to make traditional 3-tab
shingles. The dierence is the way one course is
secured to the next. Instead of small strips of
factor y-applied tar that glue one course of
conventional shingles to those below when heated by the sun, interlocking shingles
come together with a series of matching slots and tabs. This tar-free, mechanical
connection is important for wall siding because regular shingles dont always work
properly when installed vertically. Without gravity pulling one course down over the
next, the tar often fails to bond properly. The result is shingles that flop around in
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the wind and break o. This is why its risky to use regular roof shingles on walls. Its
also unnecessary.
Interlocking shingles solve this problem, though theres something you need to know.
Since they come together mechanically, you need to pay more than the usual amount
of attention to keep rows of shingles going up straight. If they start to veer o course
horizontally, the error compounds as more shingles go up. An easy way to avoid
trouble is with a 6-inch level tucked in your tool pouch. Use it to check and adjust
the orientation of every fourth or fifth interlocking shingle you put up. I learned
about this small precaution the hard way, as my first few courses of shingles began to
go o kilter. Use the level and youll never have trouble.
The main reason I installed my first batch of interlocking wall shingles was to create
attractive, long-term weather protection on a building that I was covering in a 9-inch
thick layer of limestone. Working alone, and quarrying stone entirely from the forest
by hand takes forever. The shingles bought me the time I needed, while allowing the
stone to go right over top. Since that original experiment in the late 1980s, Ive seen
interlocking shingles used as permanent siding on a few large and small country
projects with great success.
Although Tite-Lok shingles are available everywhere, chances are that your average
building supply clerk wont be familiar with them. Theyre not a popular item, so they
dont sell very often. Just dont take I dont know what youre talking about for an
answer. Clip this story to show what you want.
Im the first to admit that interlocking shingles dont look right in every situation,
but what building option does? If your summer construction plans involve putting up
an informal cottage, a backyard shed or a cozy forest cabin somewhere, dont simply
transplant urban siding choices without thinking about it. Interlocking shingles are
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simple, attractive in a down-home kind of way. The kids can even bounce a tennis
ball o them at the cottage without fear of damage. What other siding oers all
these advantages and low cost, too?
Roofing Options
If youre considering a new roof for your house, then youre in for some fun! Roofing
options have expanded lately, aording the homeowner many interesting colors and
textures -- options that were simply unavailable or too impractical to consider before.
What youll find here is a quick overview of three of the most interesting roofing
options out there, and where to find more information.
Asphalt Shingles: The Old Dog Learns New Tricks

When I was a boy, childrens snow suits and asphalt roof singles had a lot in common.
They were both heavy and came in only two colors -- dark green or black.
Thankfully, things have changed for the better. Todays asphalt shingles aord lots of
room for creative choices, thanks to an explosion of available colors, textures and
patterns. You can still get the usual 3-tab design (the kind with the ubiquitous
rectangular pattern), but dont stop looking there. For slightly more money you can
get shingles with irregular patterns cut along their bottom edges, creating an
attractive random pattern thats reminiscent of cedar shakes. An added benefit of
this no-tab style of asphalt shingle is the absence of the factory-made cuts that
define the 3-tab design. In locations with lots of pine trees, these cuts can trap fallen
needles that eventually rot and speed deterioration of the shingles. No cuts mean
longer shingle life in places like these.
Several manufacturers oer premium asphalt shingle patterns that are made with a
single base layer, capped by a second, irregular layer that has random cut outs. This
two-layer approach adds texture to the roof by creating shadows. It looks great,
especially on houses with a large, steep roof thats visually prominent.
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If your current asphalt shingling job is the very last one you want to do for a while,
you should consider using a super-durable product. These are made of the usual
mixture of asphalt and colored granules, including an extra measure fiberglass
reinforcement. The best of these come with a 50-year warranty. Typical asphalt
shingles have a 20 to 25 year life span.
Metal Gets a Face Lift

Metal roofing materials are the chameleons of the building supply world. No other
product has undergone as extensive a metamorphosis since poplar acceptance, in
this case more than 50 years ago. What started out as dull, grey sheets of steel has
now taken on colorful, bullet-proof, factory-applied finishes, look-alike textures and
camouflage coatings. You can now get sheets of metal roofing, for instance, that look
like clay tile, but go up fast and can be supported by any standard roof structure.
Products that include fine stone chips bonded to steel look something like shakes or
slate, but go on more quickly and boast warranties as long as 50 years.
Old World-Style Tiles

For centuries people have kept the rain o their heads with an interlocking network
of baked clay tiles. Modern versions of this European roofing style are now also
made of colored concrete, oering greater strength, solidity and long life spans, plus
all the same good looks. Concrete tiles are also available in a shape that mimics slate
and cedar shakes, if you prefer. Concrete tile roofing products are solid and
impressive, but they cant be safely supported by all roof structures. Before you get
too far into the planning process, go into your attic (or hire someone to) and measure
the length, width and spacing of the angled wood members called rafters or sketch
the triangular pattern of wood members that form the trusses, if thats what you find
there. With this information a concrete tile sales representative will tell you if this
product is suitable for your home.
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Getting More Info

The easiest way to get the latest information on availability and pricing of roofing
products in your area is at a large building supply outlet near you. Few such places
have roofing materials on display, so youll have to ask for pamphlets. Better-yet, ask
to see their behind-the-counter catalogues. These are typically three-ring binders
provided by manufacturers for use by retail sales people. Theyre not meant for
public consumption, but few outlets will refuse you a look if you ask nicely. Even if
you intend to have a professional provide and apply your new roof, a visit to a
building supply yard is the best way to educate yourself about the possibilities.
Roofing Lingo
This short list will give you a fighting chance when confronted by roofing
professionals who start throwing around the jargon.
Square: An unit of roof area equal to 100 square feet.
Valley: The trough-like intersection point between two adjoining roof lines. For
example: The intersection point between a dormer and a main roof is a valley.
Peak: Just as it sounds. The pointy bit at the top of an angled roof.
Fascia: The horizontal face that surrounds the edges of a peaked roof.
Drip Edge: An aluminum or steel strip that surrounds the perimeter of a roof and
keeps moisture from seeping under roofing materials and damaging the roof
structure.
Extending Roof Life Saves Money

An ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure, especially when it comes to
extending the life of your roof. You can save lots of money if you do things right, and
thats even true when your shingles are already starting to look a little tired.
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This is the promise behind a relatively new type of remedial roof treatment called
Elastomeric Roof Coating. Its a Canadian product made by Quebec-based Techni-
Seal, and its part of an integrated, three-part cost-saving approach to roof
management that can save hundreds of dollars while also reducing some strain on
landfill sites. But to understand how, you need to begin with an often-overlooked
fact.
Asphalt shingles are the most popular roofing material in Canada, and for good
reason. They combine an attractive appearance and durability in an aordable
package thats hard to beat. But theres one key detail that most people miss when
managing their asphalt roof. The biggest part of overall roofing costs isnt the
shingles themselves, but the price of removing the old ones, disposing of the mess,
and nailing down new shingles. Do the math and youll find that extending the period
between reshingling jobs is by far the most profitable roof management strategy you
can ever apply.
This is why I always recommend homeowners opt for the best quality shingles they
can aord when reshingling. Thats wise roofing strategy#1. You might pay 50% more
for 50-year shingles compared with the 25-year option, but shingle costs represent
only a small portion of the cheque youll write to a roofer. Go with durable shingles
and youll save thousands of dollars in the long run. Just dont get duped. Some
roofers are in the habit of jacking up installation costs when a client asks for
premium shingles, even when its no extra trouble to nail down the good stu. So
when youre assessing roofing quotes, call a building supply yard afterwards and get
prices for shingles only. That way you can detect any financial shenanigans. Youll be
surprised how small a part of your quote is shingle costs.
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But most people dont begin with a brand

new roof to make decisions about, and
thats where elastomeric coatings come in.
Its part of wise roof strategy #2. Think of
the product like a liquid balloon applied to
tired shingles to extend their working life.
It comes in six colours and rolls on like
thick paint. When you apply at least two
coats of this stu, you get a seven-year manufacturers warranty, too. At $200 for a 17-
litre pail, this product isnt cheap, but its fast and easy for you to apply yourself. This
quantity covers about 650 sq. ft. in one coat.
I havent yet had the chance to see how Techni-Seals roof coating weathers over the
long haul, but I was immediately concerned about peeling. Whats the use of
extending shingle life if the coating comes o in sheets and plugs up your eaves
trough after a few years? Francis Lacombe, director of retail sales with Techni-Seal,
explains that the coating slowly wears as it ages, so peeling isnt an issue. It stabilizes
surface granules on the shingles, while sealing shingles down that have begun to curl
upwards. As a side benefit, the coating is even useful on shingle roofs that leak due
to ice damming. Apply an extra coat or two along the eaves only, and the shingle-to-
shingle sealing action reduces the chance that pooled water will back up underneath
shingles when ice builds up during winter. Just dont apply too much coating. The
product is formulated to be micro porous, allowing water vapour to escape upwards
through the roof during dry weather if necessary. Too many coats and moisture wont
migrate outwards properly.
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Rooftop moss and lichen

growth can cut shingle life in
h a l f, a n d t h a t s w h y t h e
installation of zinc strips is
wise roof strategy #3. You can
even see how this metal works
incidental l y around zinc-
coated flashing and rooftop
fixtures. Growth occurs
ever ywhere except
downstream from the metal.
Youll get the same welcome eect across your entire roof by installing zinc strips
along the ridge so at least 1 inch of metal is exposed to the rain.. The small amounts
of dissolved metal that are released keeps roof-ruining lichen growth at bay.
Successful home maintenance is really about attending to the details, and this fact
applies to roof surfaces, too. Even on an area typically turned entirely over to the
professionals, diligence and care puts savings in your pocket.
Roofs, Attics & Exteriors Wall Q&As
Ceiling Condensation
Q: Whats causing water to drip from a light fixture in our house? It happened after
we had some very cold weather, followed by a warming trend that pushed
temperatures above freezing. There was no rain. I went into the attic and found
melting frost on the underside of the roof and dripping down.
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A: Youd better deal with this quickly because wiring is involved. There's no question
that the cause of your problems involves air leakage and, perhaps, insucient attic
ventilation. With the wide swings in temperature this winter, conditions have been
ideal for this sort of trouble. As warm, moist air migrates into the attic from the
living space in your home, it cools, condenses and causes frost to build up on the
underside of your roof. When outdoor temperatures rise above freezing, this frost
melts and water runs down into insulation and wiring. Attic ventilation can allow
some of this moisture to escape harmlessly before it ever forms frost, but if the flow
of moist air into your attic is large, no amount of ventilation is going to be sucient.
Few people realize how much warm air sneaks up past the hatch leading into their
attic, and this is the first place you should examine. In addition to making sure your
attic vents are clear and functional, take steps to positively seal your attic hatch. If
this doesn't solve your problem, consider increasing the amount of attic ventilation
you have. Building codes require a minimum vent area equal to 1/300th of the floor
area of your attic, but thats often not enough. In some cases, doubling this amount
of vent area is necessary to solve attic moisture problems.
Rooftop Ice Dams on Townhouse

Q: What can we do about rooftop ice dams that form on the townhouse condo
where I live? Weve added more insulation (12" minimum), increased attic ventilation,
and still had trouble this winter. We monitored attic temperatures and found that
they rose high enough to melt snow on cold but sunny days. Would adding a layer of
foam and plywood to the roof help?
A: Anything you can do to make the surface of your roof colder will reduce or
eliminate ice damning and winter time roof leaks. The trick is making this happen
with a minimum of fuss and expense, and for this I recommend doing simple, less
costly things first. Stripping o the existing roof, adding a layer of foam, then
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applying more plywood and new shingles certainly will help reduce attic
temperatures, but at a high cost. Id only consider it if your townhouses are in need
of a re-shingling job anyway.
You mentioned that you've monitored attic temperatures and that's a good thing.
But the fact that it gets warmer than 0C up there on sunny, cold days proves that
there's still not enough ventilation yet. The building code requires a minimum vent
area of 1/300 of the attic floor area, though this often isn't sucient. I'd start by
increasing attic vents substantially. You may also want to consider an electrically
powered attic vent. This would also make each unit more comfortable during hot
summer weather.
If youll be having new shingles installed, specify that peel and stick ice and water
shield be applied over the entire roof surface, paying special attention to creating a
waterproof seal with the metal drip edge.
Dealing With Old Aluminum Siding

Q: What can I do about the fading, 30-year-old aluminum siding on my house? Is
painting an option, or should we upgrade to vinyl? I do have concerns about the
working life of paint.
A: If it were my home, I'd go with paint for three reasons. It'll be less expensive than
replacing all that metal with vinyl, and the physical durability of aluminum is much
better than vinyl, too. Sprucing up the aluminum also saves lots of resources, so its
good for the environment.
New paint applied to aluminum siding can last a long time as long as you follow a few
unique details. Begin by washing the surface in the same way you'd tackle the outside
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of your car. Scrub with warm, soapy water and a brush, then rinse well to remove
dirt, soap residue and oxidized paint. You might be tempted to use a pressure washer
here, but thats not a great idea. It's all too easy for water to be forced up underneath
the siding and into window trim. Let the siding dry for a couple of good days, then
get ready to paint.
The chemistry of painting aluminum requires the use of an oil-based metal primer as
the first coat. Don't use latex primer since it can react with the aluminum. That said,
the paint itself should be the highest grade of 100% acrylic exterior latex you can
find. A flat or low-sheen formulation looks best on siding. It doesn't show
imperfections like high-gloss paints do. For the best possible results, consider spray
application.
Repairing Cracked Stucco

Q: What can I do about cracks in the exterior stucco of my 1930s house? Will a paint
job be enough to keep water out?
A: You're right to be concerned. This is a common problem, and it can lead to nasty,
hidden deterioration in some cases. Does your house have a wood frame? Even
small amounts of water seeping into whole wall cavities quickly lead to mold and rot.
If your house has solid masonry walls (and it could, given the structures age), then
the danger is less pronounced. Either way, you still need to deal with the cracks.
If they're no wider than the thickness of a piece of heavy paper, then several coats of
thick-bodied paint may seal them. Try a small area and see how it works. Just be sure
to use 100% acrylic latex paint, since it retains a certain amount of flexibility after it
dries. If the cracks are wider than a hairline, you'll need to fill them before painting.
The best product I've seen for this is polyurethane caulking. It sticks very well, is
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completely paintable and remains highly flexible. Beads of polyurethane caulking

that I installed outdoors more than 10 years ago are still as flexible as a rubber band.
The only issue with caulking is that it works best when filling a gap that's at least
4mm or 5mm wide. Consider opening up cracks that are narrower than this, then
pump caulking as deeply as you can into the gap before applying paint.
Dealing With Asbestos Shingles

Q: What can I do about the Johns Manville wall shingles applied to the outside of my
1950s house? I need to understand the relative risks associated with keeping the
shingles as-is, refinishing them or replacing them with new siding.
A: The kind of wall shingles you've got contain asbestos

which is always a concern because of the serious lung
diseases it can cause. But according to Health Canada, "if
asbestos fibres are enclosed or tightly bound in a product,
for example in asbestos siding or asbestos floor tiles, there
are no significant health risks." This is why leaving the
shingles undisturbed and in place on your walls is the safest
option. As long as you don't drill, sand or brush the shingles,
the asbestos remains encapsulated and harmless. The
challenge is how to maintain this kind of siding without
creating airborne asbestos particles. Repainting always involves some kind of sanding
or brushing, and while this operation can be safely completed on wood, it's definitely
out of the question when working with asbestos shingles.
Covering the old shingles with new siding may seem like an option, but it's not easy
to do physically. Asbestos shingles are very brittle, and you can't drive new screws
and nails through them conveniently.
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This leaves the approach of removing the old shingles and replacing them with new
siding, an option that many homeowners have pursued, though probably not as safely
as they should. As a homeowner working on your own house, there are no legally
binding safety precautions you need to adopt for yourself. That said, you really do
need to wear a respirator and a completely sealed set of disposable overalls to stay
safe. You also need to dispose of the old shingles as toxic waste. If you do decide to
go the DIY route, and you want to maintain the traditional character of your home,
consider new factory finished wood siding or fiber cement siding.
Q: How can I eliminate attic condensation? A couple of years ago we replaced

shingles and the lower sections of roof sheathing that had rotted out. On the advice
of my roofer, I added more ventilation in the peak and a little along the wooden
sots. My new roof sheathing is still wet this winter. I dont know where else to turn
for answers.
A: When it comes to attic moisture problems, there are always two issues at work:
moisture migration into the attic, and ventilation action that carries it away. And
while it's true that you've boosted the ventilation side of the equation, it's also clear
that this isn't enough. Start by looking at your attic hatch. This is a huge and
unrecognized source of attic moisture. Even small gaps around the hatch can allow
massive amounts of warm, heated indoor air to fill the attic space and trigger
condensation during winter. The water on your roof sheathing probably wafted o a
pot of boiling pasta you ate a couple of days ago, or billowed out of the shower last
week. When you've done everything you can to make sure that indoor air never gets
to the attic, it's time to boost ventilation. Wooden sots are notoriously dicult to
ventilate well. You really need to have a continuous, louvered opening along the
entire length of all eaves.
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Section 11
Windows & Doors
Buying Blinds Online

I bought my first batch of window blinds from a
big-name franchise more than 10 years ago, and the
experience left me with the same feeling I got after
wandering into the back alley of a Jamaican street
market, where I met a big, loud huckster extremely
eager to sell me a hand-carved mahogany horse.
My visit to the blinds store began with a price quote

that seemed outrageous and I said so. But, as I
was quickly informed by the smiling salesman, this
is your lucky day, Mr. Maxwell. My manager is about
to submit a large order. If you give me your credit
card within the next 20 minutes, well knock o 20%.
A few minutes later -- the price still seeming too high the guy returned . . . Mr.
Maxwell! Good news! We just took a call from a big-name designer here in the city. If
you say yes to your blinds order within the next 15 minutes, we can piggy-back your
blinds with his and discount your price by an additional 30%! It felt like Id fallen
into a real life infomercial. All that remained was the oer to throw in that amazing
bread knife that cuts steel.
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In the end, I went for the blinds, but not because I thought it really was my lucky
day. The ruse was thin, I felt manipulated, and I couldnt help wondering how many
folks ended up paying way too much for blinds this way. Maybe even I paid too
much, despite all my luck.
But as Ive discovered, you dont have to play games when buying blinds. You dont
even need to leave the comfort of your home.
When it came time to buy more blinds for my place this past summer, I logged onto
the Internet to check out the selection. Buying blinds is complicated, so I didnt
expect to be able to actually complete my purchase while sitting on a lawn chair with
my laptop. But I was wrong, even down to the issue of actually seeing samples in
person before settling on a deal.
The outfit I ended up buying from was www.selectblindscanada.ca. And while there
may be other online blinds vendors that are as good, I couldnt find them. Their
selection was excellent, the blinds fit my windows perfectly, and installation took me
five minutes per blind. I even got an unsolicited email from a real live person
updating me on the status of my order in transit. If I lived next to a blinds store, Id
still purchase on the web this way. The whole process took about 20 hassle-free
minutes at the keyboard.
Selling blinds online isnt easy. There are lots of variables: dozens of possible styles,
the need for custom blind widths on ever y order, and the challenge of
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communicating to customers exactly what dierent colours and styles actually look
like in real life. Whoevers behind Select Blinds has addressed all these issues in a
way that I cant criticize. I wish I could find some fault with the buying experience, if
only to make the account of my experience seem more authentic.
Theres a moment in every discretionary purchase when the deal clicks in your mind,
when you commit internally to saying yes. But when it comes to something as
personal as blinds, I doubt the click would have happened for me if it werent for one
big, dicult to provide thing: the opportunity to see physical samples of the styles
and colours that struck my fancy online.
Select all the colours you want on the website, fill in your physical address, then a
week later a thick envelope arrives in the mail. It contains a personalized sheet of
paper with 60 mm lengths of all the blinds youve sampled, glued to a piece of paper
with your name on top, delivered at no charge.
I had trouble deciding between less expensive faux wood and premium real wood
horizontal blinds. The sample sheet solved this problem for me instantly. It also
allowed me to correct a mistaken choice I would have made by selecting colours
based on my computer screen only.
More and more of my home improvement purchases are either being made on line,
or heavily influenced by what I learn there. I know Im not alone, and thats a good
thing. Online purchasing dispels retailer nonsense because comparison shopping is
just a click away. It keeps more of us o the road, out of over-stued parking lots,
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and free from silly in-store gimmicks. And wouldnt you know! The cost of my online
blinds was less than that amazing deal I lucked into ten years ago.
Leaky Window Cloud Has Silver Lining

Wed had a few hours of light rain during the morning of July 17th, and I went out to
my brand new workshop to revel in the dry space that surrounded my tools and
woodworking equipment. That was when my heart hit the ground with a great big
thud.
Id spent $20,000 on eleven high-end

Repla casement windows for the
building, and they were my favourite
part of the shop. Favourite, that is,
until I saw the pools of water that lay
underneath them on the floor. And as I
kicked myself for what must have been
a poor installation job, closer
examination with a flashlight made me
feel even worse. Water was leaking through seams in the vinyl windows themselves.
The installation itself was fine. The windows, fully installed now, flashed and flanked
in siding were leaking badly because of a design flaw. And it wasnt even raining that
hard.
Besides enormous disappointment, that grey summer day left me with big questions
that Id spend the next three months answering: How could premium windows from
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a reputable company have such a blatant design defect? How could this engineering
fault have slipped past the CSA performance designation found on every window in
my shop? What would the window company, Repla, do to make things better? In the
end, my window saga has a happy conclusion, though not because of assistance from
any of the sources youd expect. In fact, what I experienced was the longest chain of
buck-passing Ive ever been a part of. But in the end, the rigmarole made the final
success all the sweeter.
It took multiple phone messages, emails and several weeks waiting to hear back from
the very busy salesman who helped me with my original window purchase. And what
he told me only made matters worse. Repla went bankrupt earlier in the year, the
guy explained, and the firm that took over the old company name isnt bound by the
warranty you have. Sorry. Just put some caulking on the windows and youll be fine.
Be happy with twenty-grand worth of windows that depend entirely on caulking to

keep water o the drywall? I dont think so.
A letter to the new owner of the Repla name led to the enormously comforting
assurance that my issue had been handled in a most professional and timely manner,
but there was simply nothing more that could be done. Good-bye, and have a good
day.
So what about that CSA sticker on my windows? Doesnt that count for anything?
The Canadian Standards Association is in the business of performance and safety
certification, and my leaky windows carried their prestigious A440 rating. A call to
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the public relations department at CSA revealed that although the letters CSA were,
indeed, on my windows, this didnt actually mean the product was verified to A440
standards. In fact, my windows were only assessed to the A440 guidelines, and not
even by the CSA themselves. CSA wasnt responsible. An outfit called the Canadian
Construction Materials Centre (CCMC), a division of the National Research
Council, tested a sample of the kind of vinyl extrusions (not the entire window) used
on my style of windows back in the 1990s. That lab sample met the A440 standard at
that time.
But the buck continued to pass when I learned that the particular A440 standard on
my windows had actually been revoked by CCMC more than five years ago. The
window manufacturer had been informed to cease using the designation back on
September 22, 1998, but failed to do so. And since the CCMC does not actually
police the use of designation stickers they issue, the deceptive use of the rating isnt
their problem. Have a nice day, sir.
With the fall rains beginning, I now have eleven completely weather tight and
reliable windows in my workshop. And Im not relying on the vagaries of caulking to
make it happen, either. In the end, after talking to sealant and weatherproofing
experts across Canada and the US, I developed a unique DIY solution for my
windows that you can bet your life on. In fact, Im almost glad Ive had all this
trouble because of where it has led me.
I needed a technical expert, and that led me to Adrian Russell, a sealing guru at
Construction Distribution Supply. He made several suggestions based on the digital
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photos I sent, including the use of a product called Eternabond

(www.eternabond.com; 705-471-0282). Id never heard of this product before, but it
was to be the key component of an excellent and elegant solution to my problem.
Eternabond is probably the stickiest

t a p e o n e a r t h . It s a f a m i l y o f
astonishing roof repair products that
come in several variations. I chose a
cloth-backed version called WebSeal as
a cap for my defective windowsills, used
in conjunction with the best
polyurethane caulking I could find.
WebSeal is designed to be painted, and thats why I chose it over the other plastic-
backed and foil-backed Eternabond products. Either the caulking or the WebSeal
may have done the job on their own, but for how long? Used together, however, Im
confident that the sills are now sealed as reliably as if they were made from a single
length of vinyl.
Eternabond was originally developed for use sealing pipes under the ocean, and the
adhesive backing is the most amazing part of this product line. Its pressure-
activated. Once you put the tape in place and squeeze it down, its not going
anywhere. Ever. I never realized anything could be so sticky.
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Eternabond comes in rolls ranging from

2-inches wide and up, with a peelable
backing. That way you can cut the
shape you need, put it into position,
then peel the back before final
adhesion. I made a cardboard template
to match the top of my windows sill
shape, then used this to trace and cut
pieces of WebSeal to match. I nestled the tape down over fresh polyurethane
caulking applied to the leaky gaps and seams, then smoothed over the caulking
squeeze-out with my finger. After that, three coats of exterior latex paint completed
the repair. Id be very surprised if this paint ever peels. It has soaked right into the
cloth backing, seemingly for good.
Eternabond products are also designed for repairing flat roof membranes, punctured
roof valleys and leaking seams in RV roofs. Its not cheap (a 4-inch x 50-foot roll cost
about $50), but its more than worth the price. Im even experimenting using
WebSeal as a DIY alternative for cladding old wooden window frames in place of
aluminum. Ill let you know if it works out.
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I hope you never have to deal with the kind

of leaky window customer service nightmare
I did, but chances are pretty good that water
leaks of some sort will plague you during your
time as a homeowner. And when that day
comes, at least youre now better equipped to
meet the challenge and win.
Windows & Doors Q & As
Dolling Up Interior Doors

Q: What can I do to improve the appearance of the plain, painted interior doors in
my house? Im thinking of using molding to create a raised panel look, but Im not
sure how.
A: This is a great project and well worth doing because it can improve the
appearance of your doors so much. To achieve success, you need to deal with three
things: the profile of trim you'll use, the pattern you'll apply and the way you'll fasten
the trim to your doors. You'll also need to understand that this project involves some
artistic judgement.
Astragal is the name of a profile that's meant for application on flat surfaces. It
comes in various widths and a few slightly dierent shapes. An ordinary interior door
typically looks best with a 3/4" to 1" wide astragal, but that's just a guideline. Cut
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strips from scrap wood and hold it against your door to get a sense of what width
looks proportional before you buy anything.
Experimenting with strips is also an eective way to come up with an optimal

pattern of trim on your door face, but before you do that try some scale drawings.
For situations like this I often find that a scale combining metric and Imperial
measurement works well. A ratio of 3 mm to the inch lets a normal door height fill
most of a regular size sheet of paper, and that's what you want. Draw the outline of
your doors first, then start fooling around with various trim patterns. The ones I
think you'll like best involve vertical rectangles -- either one tall above a shorter one,
or two pairs of tall over two pairs of shorter ones. What you're aiming to create is a
pattern that's reminiscent of the frame and panel construction of traditional solid
wood doors. When you've settled on a pattern you like, cut some scrap strips to
length and fasten them temporarily to one door as it hangs vertically using double-
sided tape. How does it look? Now's the time to tweak the arrangement, settling on
what seems best to your eye.
Fastening the astragal molding to the door is trickier than it looks for two reasons.
First of all, the door is probably hollow, so ordinary finishing nails won't hold the
trim well enough on their own. Also, you'll need to seal the joint behind the astragal
so it appears as part of the door. Any gaps behind the trim look bad. The best way to
meet both these challenges is with a pin nailer and a tube of latex caulking of the
sort used to fill joint gaps on interior trim before painting. Cut pieces of astragal,
dry-fit them onto the face of the door as it sits horizontally, then mark their position
with a pencil. Lift the pieces o, apply a small bead of caulk to the back face of the
trim, then place them back on the door and secure them with the pin nailer. Ideally
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you'd like to see a small amount of squeeze out from the sides of the astragal that you
can smooth over with your finger.
Let the caulk dry for a day or two, then prime the trim and paint the doors. You'll be
amazed at how much better they look.
Window Mould
Q: Our landlord recently put in new windows and theyre covered in condensation
like never before. Whats causing this? Caulking around the windows now has mould
on it, as do the window sills. The landlord insists that the windows be left open to
cut down on the condensation, but whats the point in having new windows if you
have to leave them open? Are these windows installed improperly?
A: Ive got good news and bad news. Your new windows definitely seal better than
the ones you used to have. Trouble is, this boost in sealing action is also responsible
for the increased condensation youre plagued with. Here's why.
Wintertime window condensation comes from cooking, showering and breathing.

The fact that condensation wasnt a problem with your old windows, can only mean
that they leaked enough to let this moisture escape harmlessly. Your new windows
seal better, retaining enough additional moisture in the house to condense on the
cold surface of the glass. And while it's true that opening your windows and running
exhaust fans a lot can lower indoor humidity levels, youre right in saying that this
defeats the whole purpose of new windows in the first place. The once-and -for-all
solution is to install a heat recovery ventilator (HRV). This brings dry outdoor air
into your home, but not before heating it with the energy reclaimed from the
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outgoing stream of warm stale indoor air. While you're trying to convince your
landlord to spend the $2000-$2500 on an HRV, you need something to help kill and
clean up the mold. Although bleach and water solution is sometimes used for this,
its harsh, both on your body and the surfaces youre cleaning. A more
environmentally sound option that Ive used is a product called Concrobium. It's a
unique, non-toxic, spray-on liquid that kills mold spores permanently by crushing
them out, then inhibits re-growth for about 3 months.
Q: How can I fix a new door that has an uneven gap at the top? Theres a space that
opens from 1/8-inch at one side to 1/2-inch at the other. What can I do?
A: The challenge you're facing here is typical of many home renovation issues, and
there's an important principle you need to understand in order to stay sane. Success
with any reno depends heavily on your ability to choose correctly between solving
root problems on the one hand, and applying sound, long-lasting secondary solutions
on the other. I'm all in favour of fixing things properly, but sometimes 'properly'
involves a whole set of steps that unfold like nasty dominos gone berserk. Your
door is a classic case in point. Sure, taking out the door jamb and squaring it up to
match the door would be best, but thats not all there is too it. The jamb isn't going
to come out unless the trim comes o. And it's quite likely that you'll damage the
walls as you lever o the trim. And if you're going to repair one small section of wall,
you should really do the whole room. And if you're repairing walls, then you'll
certainly need to repaint. But does it really make sense to repaint when you've got
such bad windows . . .
The sensible solution is to carefully glue an extension of wood on the top of the door.
Plane this wood to create an even, 1/8-inch-wide gap all across the door, then paint to
hide the patch.Work carefully and no one will ever know.
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Section 12
New Construction
SIPs Hands-On How-To

There are plenty of new ways to raise good buildings these days, and structural
insulated panels (SIPs) are one of my favourites. They yield more energy ecient
structures than anything from the past, and theyre also faster to put up than stick
frame designs. Although the process of building with SIPs is unique, its not dicult
once you understand how its done.
SIPs are factory-bonded sandwiches of rigid foam sheathed in wood-based sheet

goods, typically 7/16-thick OSB. Panels are usually four feet wide and up to 24-feet
long. Standard panel thicknesses of 4 1/2, 6 1/2 and 8 1/4 are sized to accommodate
2x4, 2x6 and 2x8 lumber in the recess between the OSB skins.
Regardless of SIPs panel width, all are designed to take the place of conventional
stud frame walls. SIPs can also be self-supporting horizontally, forming the roof
structure in some applications (no trusses needed). SIPs are also virtually free from
the risk of internal moisture condensation and mold growth that threatens stud walls
in cold climates. SIPs do add 1% to 3% to the overall cost of a building, though SIPs
designs generally use only half the energy consumed by similar stud-frame structures
built to code. Pay-back is fast.
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SIPs In a Nutshell
Start by sending your plans to a SIPs manufacturer. Theyll create elevation drawings
that show exactly where the various lengths of panels in your shipment need to go as
you put them up. All my SIPs deliveries so far have arrived on a tractor trailer with a
forklift piggy-backed behind. This is been a huge advantage because it means piles of
panels can be plunked down right where you'll use them.
Building walls with SIPs involves tilting full-length panels

upright one at a time and locking them in place. The
foam core is factory-recessed along panel edges, so panels
straddle a 2x bottom plate bolted to the foundation.
Recessed edges also allow joint connectors (called
splines) to be installed between neighbouring panels. I
use the Prazi beam cutter for slicing panels to length and width. Its a retrofit
chainsaw bar made to fit on an electric circ saw. The Prazi cuts deep (more than 10
at 90), with precision angle control.
Its not uncommon to have to re-establish recessed

edges on SIPs panels cut in the field, and a hot
knife is the tool that makes this possible. It uses an
electrically heated wire to slice a section of foam
from panel edges. Youll get best results if your
panels are perfectly dry, and if you slice the foam
where it meets the OSB using a utility blade before
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turning on the hot knife. If theres an Achilles' heel in the

SIPs building process it's the state of hot knife
technology. Its not great. The best model I've been able
to find is slower than it could be if it operated in a hotter
temperature. I also had to pay $500 for the thing.
Solid wood 2x4s, 2x6s or 2x8s (depending on panel

thickness) are installed in the recessed edges around door
and window openings, and as top plates. When youre
done, the foam is hidden and all you see is OSB on the inside and outside faces of
exterior walls. Drywall fastens with screws (drive them anywhere you like), with
siding or brick installed on the exterior of the building.
Walls and Corners: A Closer Look

Begin by bolting a 2x4 or 2x6 bottom plate to your foundation or floor frame. Plates
must be strongly anchored since they alone hold the wall panels vertical as they go
up. Also, before you decide on a bottom plate strategy, theres something you need to
think about. If your SIPs wall rests on a poured concrete slab, consider the value of a
double bottom plate. By anchoring an over-wide bottom plate to the slab first, then
adding a 2x4 or 2x6 on top (whichever matches the thickness of panels youre using),
panels and drywall get raised 1 1/2 up o the floor, well away from any water that
might accumulate from time to time.
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Regardless of the bottom plate design you choose, lay

down a couple of beads of low expansion polyurethane
foam on the underside of the plates, before they go
down. Every joint in a SIPs structure is sealed with
foam in this way as it goes together and it's one reason
why these structures are so incredibly airtight. But to
apply foam accurately and at lowest cost, you need a
good foam gun. The best are made of metal and thread
onto a replaceable foam canister. Foam flow is
controlled by a valve at the tip of the nozzle, connected
to a trigger at the gun handle. In addition to foam, youll also need some solvent to
clean the gun. This comes in a pressure can with the same kind of threaded top as
the gun. Screw it onto the gun and let a bit of solvent run through the gun after
removing a spent can of foam, before installing a
new one.
With single or double bottom plates in place,

continue by laying down a couple more beads of
low-expansion foam on your wood. Tilt a corner
wall panel upright over the lumber, hold it plumb,
then fire 2 1/2" nails every 6" to 8" through the
OSB along both the inside and outside bottom
edges of the panel, into the edges of the 2x bottom
plate. Although it doesnt seem likely, these nails
lock the panel with surprising strength as long as
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the bottom plate is anchored solidly. In fact, youd better make sure your wall panels
are perfectly plumb before nailing. Unlike with a stud frame wall, theres no chance
to plumb-and-line a SIPs wall after its up. The panels just don't move, though you
should still install temporary braces until all wall panels are up.
So what about corners? Standard practice begins by filling in the recessed edge on the
outermost corner panel with a solid piece of 1 1/2-thick construction lumber that
matches panel width. Next, apply another piece of
the same kind of lumber to the inside face of this
panel using foam and #8 x 1 1/2 screws to secure
the joint. This creates a ridge of wood that
interlocks with the recessed edge of the second
panel as its raised to the vertical position. Its a
simple and strong approach.
Doors, Windows and Top Plates

There are two ways to make openings in a SIPs wall.
When it's smaller than about 24" x 36", raise uncut
panels upright, then chainsaw openings where you
want them. Recess the foam along the edges to make room for 2x lumber as needed
using a hot knife. Larger openings are best made by installing full-height wall panels
on both sides of your window or door, with separate pieces of foam precut to fit in
place above and below the openings. Heres how:
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Assuming you're working with 6 1/2-thick SIPs, begin by cutting and erecting the
panel that forms the wall underneath the opening. Into the recessed side edges of
this short panel, install doubled or tripled lengths of 2x6, fastened together face-to-
face using foam and #8 x 2 1/2 screws. Next, slide
full-height wall panels into place on either side of this
window wall, making sure that the distance between
these panels at the top end is the same as the width
of the window wall down below. Add more single 2x6s
to line the sides of the opening, including a
horizontal 2x6 across the top. Finish by adding
another pair of double 2x6s into the recesses in the
top end of the full-size panels before slipping in
another piece of precut SIPs panel to span the top of
the opening.
So what about lintels? SIPs panels can span window and door openings without
added support from wooden lintels or headers up to a surprisingly wide limit,
depending on what's supported above them. SIPs manufacturers can advise you on
these technicalities, but dont be surprised if you dont need to add much extra wood
up above.
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Assembled SIPs structures can also carry

a surprisingly high point load -- nearing
5,000 lbs per foot on 6 1/2-inch walls.
Where point loads exceed this figure,
install internal columns of solid wood,
typically made from double or triple
thicknesses of 2x6 lumber. You can put
these up during initial wall construction
or afterwards by cutting slots and insetting the required lumber.
The top of SIPs walls are usually finished o with a double layer of 2x4 or 2x6
lumber, just like any stud frame wall. The only dierence is that this wood is installed
one piece at a time into an extra-deep, 3 recess in the panel edges This strategy is
used on both regular walls, and the angled top of
gable-end walls. Apply foam before each layer of
wood is installed, fastening the lumber with nails
driven through the OSB and into the edges of the
wood. For maximum load-bearing capacity, be sure
the upper surface of your top plate is flush with the
top edge of the OSB. This transmits any downward
loads through the sheathing on either side of the
foam core and ensures that top plates are installed
flat and not wavy.
Wires and Pipes
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This is where people usually get worried. We're so used to running pipes and wires
horizontally that it's hard to see how to tackle this job practically when dealing with
SIPs. The solution involves running pipes and wires horizontally through floor and
ceiling frames, then extending them down or up SIPs walls wherever you want
electricity or water.
SIPs panels can handle just about any vertical channel through the OSB to
accommodate mechanicals, though cutting a panel horizontally will ruin it's
structural strength. Never cut horizontally.
I'm a neat freak, so I use a 1/4-thick plywood template to guide the travel of a router
with a flush trimming bit through the OSB to create whatever width of channels I
need. You could hack your way through with a
chainsaw or circ saw, too. Either way, deepen
these channels at least 1 1/2 into the foam using
your hot knife (or whatever depth is required to
get you safely past the drywall screw hazard),
then lay pipes and wires into the grooves before
foaming them over. A hacksaw blade used
without the frame is flexible enough to run flat against the wall while sawing o
excess foam after its hardened.
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You'll find it easiest to bring wires up from a floor frame

if you decide ahead of time exactly where this should
happen. This approach lets you drill through the bottom
plate and subfloor before the wall is raised over it. Mark
the locations of these holes so you know where to cut
grooves in the wall panels afterwards. I find a 3/8" dia. x
24"-long installer's auger bit a huge help here. Cut wall
slots where they'll line up with pre-drilled wire holes in
the plates, melt away the foam, then bust your way up
into the groove with the installers bit. The tip shows you where to start feeding your
electrical cable downwards.
SIPs construction hasnt yet become mainstream because clients and contractors are
often cautious about new ways of building. That said, SIPs have a lot going for them,
both technically and from a sales point of view. Thats why theyre growing in
popularity. Youre going to look pretty good when youve got the skills to oer clients
a structure that uses so much less energy, is incredibly strong and goes up more
quickly. You can take a closer look at how it all works in a book -- Building With
Structural Insulated Panels by Michael Morley. Its currently the best builder-friendly
reference text on the SIPs subject.
Extra Insights: Two Layers of Protection

The incredible strength of SIPs panels is entirely dependent on the integrity of the
bond between OSB and foam. If this breaks down at some time in the future, youre
toast. Where chronic water leaks around doors and windows on a stud frame wall will
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lead only to rotten sheathing (bad enough), theres still a wooden frame to provide
structural support behind the scenes. Not so with SIPs. Thats why its very
important to take moisture control seriously, and a double-layered approach is worth
considering. Instead of relying on the questionable value of building wrap as
secondary water protection, install ice and water shield next to and below corners,
doors and windows. If the integrity of caulking or flashing or weather sealing ever
fails in these locations, your all-important OSB will remain high and dry regardless.
Extra Insights: An Attic Loft For All

Seasons
Even SIPs suppliers will tell you that
theres no significant energy advantage in
using panels on a conventional roof. If all
youre after is an empty attic space with
fiberglass insulation between joists, then
trusses are the fastest, easiest and cheapest
option. But if you question this standard design approach in favor of a livable attic,
then SIPs make a great deal of sense. And the reason has to do with ventilation.
To function correctly, all cathedral-type roofs with insulation need to have

ventilation channels built into the space between rafters. And while its possible to
combine conventional insulation along with eaves-to-peak ventilation passageways,
its not an easy or ecient proposition. And if you simply stu the rafter cavities full
of fiberglass and cover everything with polyethylene, then youre probably creating a
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moisture trap that will spawn mold growth, seasonal condensation drips and some
very nasty callbacks.
SIPs panels, on the other hand are both impervious

to moisture infiltration and self-supporting. They
dont need to be ventilated and theyre strong enough
to function without rafters. You simply hoist the roof
panel in place with a boom truck, setting it down on
a bead of polyurethane foam at the bottom and on a
ridge beam on top. Roof panels are secured with long
screws with large, flat heads.
The only drawback of a SIPs roof is the high

temperatures that develop on the surface from sunshine. Since the roof is
unventilated, daytime temperatures can get high enough to fry conventional asphalt
shingles in just five or six years. Fiberglass shingles, on the other hand, have a much
higher heat tolerance than organic versions, and some brands are even warranted for
50 years on specific SIPs roofs. Apply drywall to the inside of the attic loft (no need
for a vapour barrier), and youre done.
New Construction Q&As
Hiring a Contractor
Q: Im a woman living alone. How should I deal with contractors? Co-workers tell
me to pretend I have a husband before signing any deal, but that doesnt seem right
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to me. How can I expect contractors to be honest in their work when Im not
honest with them? My current projects involve building new basement stairs and
replacing the kitchen ceiling and floor.
A: I'm with you on this. Honesty must be the policy -- both for the contractor you
hire and for yourself. If the only thing protecting you from being ripped o is the
vague mention of some 'husband' who never shows up, then you're on very shaky
ground to begin with. Theres a better way.
Youre right to be leery of bad contractors who take pleasure in cheating you. Not all
are like this, but to find a good one, you need to do some homework. Start by asking
friends about contractors they were pleased with. Assemble a list of names, ask for
references from previous clients, then check them out. When you've settled on a list
of good tradespeople, ask for binding, written estimates, then make your final choice.
You also need to settle on a payment schedule that allows you to withhold at least
50% of the project fee until the job has been completed and you're pleased.
Paying a Contractor
Q: Whats the best way to pay a contractor? Im planning to build a new home, and
feel uneasy about the various payment options Ive seen.
A: Many homeowners overlook this issue, leading to costly nightmares and quality
disasters. There are two main ways to go: time and materials, or a fixed price for the
entire job. Both have pros and cons.
Time and materials is your agreement to pay for all materials and whatever labour
time the building crew clocks in. Its like handing a blank cheque to your contractor.
If hes completely honest, time-and-materials oers the leeway to take as much time
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as necessary to do a good job in an unpredictable situation. If your contractor is less

than honest, he can milk your building budget, with no incentive to work eciently.
I don't recommend time and materials for new buildings, though its reasonable to
expect a contractor to insist on it for complicated renovation jobs. Theres so much
thats unknowable until you start cutting into old walls and roofs.
The fixed price approach requires the contractor to come up with a legally binding
cost for the entire job (materials and labour), and stick with it. This is a 'contract',
hence the name contractor. Fixed price may sound like it reduces your risk, but not
necessarily. There are a thousand-and-one ways a contractor can save his skin of he's
under-bid a job, none of which leads to a good house for you. That's why contracts
must include a very detailed list of specifications for the job. Youll need to include
exact specs for construction approaches, insulation, wiring, plumbing, flooring and a
bunch of other things. The homeowner has a responsibility under a fixed price
approach, too. You must not change your mind on any details once the work has
begun, unless you're willing to pay for the added expense that changes always involve.
Regardless of which payment model you choose, youll also need to settle on a
payment schedule. Three or four milestones need to be identified beforehand, with
payment due when the project is completed up to each particular stage.
Structural Insulated Panels for a Cottage?

Q: Are structural insulated panels (SIPs) a good option for a 1500 sq. ft. cottage well
be building this summer? Our property is 500 km north of Toronto on the Montreal
River.
A: Yes, I'd strongly recommend SIPs for this project, and for more reasons than just
excellent energy performance. Ease of construction is one. SIPs are factory bonded
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sandwiches of oriented strand board (OSB) and foam. They're available in 4-foot
widths and lengths typically ranging from 8 to 16 feet long. You tip these panels up
on their ends to form the walls. If you want, you can use more panels on the top to
form the roof structure, too. This is especially useful in your case because it makes it
easy to create warm, dry completely usable loft space -- a great feature in any cottage.
SIPs panels replace studs and trusses, allowing structures to go up very quickly, while
demanding less skill than traditional stud framing. SIPs buildings are also 200% to
300% stronger than stud framed buildings, they require far less energy for heating,
and I know from experience that they're very resistant to mouse and bat invasion.
Log Home Energy Performance

Q:What kind of energy performance will a log home deliver? A friend is considering
building a house made with 16-inch x 16-inch logs (40 cm x 40 cm) and needs some
insight.
A: Thick logs are a pretty good insulator, despite what seem like ho-hum insulation
numbers. Softwood has an R-value of about R-1 per inch (2.54 cm). This means the
walls in the home in question oer about R-16. And while this isnt much dierent
than a conventional stud frame wall, real world performance is typically better.
Insulation provided by logs is continuous across the whole wall surface, compared
with the thermal bridging caused by the studs and plates in a frame wall. This design
factor means that 10% to 20% of the surface of a stud frame wall oers only about
R-5.5. That said, the Achilles Heel of log homes is air leakage between the logs. Even
the tiniest gaps between logs will make a log home virtually unheatable. If there's a
problem there, a product called Permachink is the industry standard for permanently
sealing joints between logs.
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Section 13
Sound Control
Peace and Quiet: Soundproofing Made Simple
Your home might have gorgeous floors, spectacular trim, the worlds finest solid
wood cabinets, radiant in-floor heating and terrific natural light, but if you can also
hear everything thats going on in the bathroom, kitchen and bedrooms while you
read in the den, then your place is definitely second rate.
Sound-resistant walls and floors are for more than just recording studios and
factories. Successful homes require them, too. And while everyone might agree with
this in principle, far too many new homes and renovations are being built in
acoustically flimsy ways. Thats because soundproofing is shrouded in so much
unnecessary mystery. To deal with noise issues properly in walls, all you really need to
do is apply three basic building strategies during the earliest stages of construction.
Its neither dicult nor expensive and the pay-o is huge.
Silent Walls Step-By-Step Step#1 in your

pursuit of silent walls is the use of
sta g gered stud f raming. By placing
alternating 2x4 studs on 2x6 top and
bottom plates you eectively eliminate
most of the physical connection between
inner and outer wall surfaces. With studs
spaced 16 inches on centre on each side of
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the wall, the results do look over-built, but thats okay. What you get for the extra
wood is an excellent foundation for the highly sound resistant wall strategies that
come next.
Step#2 is all about sealing. Sound is sneaky, able to worm its way through the
smallest gaps and cracks. Thats why they invented something called acoustic
caulking. Its thick, sticky and never hardens. Lay down beads of the stu all around
the edges of staggered-stud partition walls as you tilt them up into place. Also use it
underneath the edges of drywall or other sheet coverings as you install them.
Step#3 in the simple, soundproofing recipe is all about fiberboard. And while you can
buy expensive, specialty acoustic sheet materials for this job, good old exterior
fiberboard sheathing works very well. The combination of hard, dense drywall and
softer fiberboard underneath deadens sound transmission because it creates very
dierent, side-by-side densities. Sound engineers have discovered that this kind of
physical diversity is a potent noise blocker. Youll need longer-than-normal drywall
screws to secure such a combination to your staggered wall studs, but if you cant find
any, dont worry. Regular, flathead wood screws work just fine for securing drywall,
and theyre easy to find in longer lengths. Simply mud right over top of them as usual.
Building sound resistance into your home is the cheapest way to make it seem bigger.
Eective soundproofing strategies boost the privacy quotient of separate spaces,
making each room seem farther apart and more private. Not a bad price to pay for a
little bit of planning, a few extra hours of work, and a bit more money spent up front.
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Extra Insights: Quiet as Lead

As metals go, lead isnt going to win any popularity contests these days. But this
doesnt mean its all bad. In fact, when it comes to soundproofing, lead is actually
your friend. Heres how.
When Dr. Renny Whip designed and built a dental oce to house his new practice
back in 1981, his plan required thin sheets of lead underlay behind specific finished
wall surfaces. The main purpose of the metal was to act as an X-ray shield, but a
valuable side benefit came as part of the approach: spectacularly eective noise
control.
Right behind the wall where our receptionist sat there was a loud, thumping air
compressor, explains Whipp. but even when it was running, there was absolute
silence at the front desk. Lead shielding did the trick.
Sheet lead is a spectacularly eective soundproofing material, and its easy to use.
Acoustic-grade versions come in rolls 4-feet wide and 25-feet long. Unfurl the metal,
staple it to a sheathed wall, then add drywall or other finished wall treatments on
top. Thats it. Used in this encapsulated way lead is perfectly safe. Simply wear
disposable gloves during installation, cut the material with hand tools only, then
return all lead scraps to a metal recycling depot. These safety precautions are similar
to what youd follow working with old-style solder.
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Lead isnt cheap (about $300 to $350 per roll depending on market prices), but it sure
does work. A 2-inch-thick, steel-stud wall sheathed in 1/64-inch-thick acoustic lead
stops sound more eectively than a 6-inch-thick solid concrete wall.
You wont find thin lead sheeting at your average building centre, but its worth the
trouble of tracking down a supplier. One source that oers nation-wide, acoustic-
grade lead is Canada Metal (www.canadametal.com; 403-252-7646).
Quiet as Lead: Sound-Resistant Ceilings

One of the best ways to improve the acoustic performance of ceilings costs almost
nothing. And it all comes down to a simple sheet metal product called resilient
channel. Just screw these trough-shaped strips to the underside of ceiling joists, then
install drywall with screws driven up into the resilient channel itself. Just make sure
the screws dont also hit wood. You need to avoid this kind of direct physical
connection between drywall and ceiling framing for the system to work properly.
Soundproofing Floors
Theres more to floor quality than what you see. Its also about what you hear. Todays
hard floor options may be popular for their looks, but they also transmit sound with
disappointing clarity. Thats why youd be wise to invest in quality underneath your
floor as well as what you see on top. And one of the most eective places to put your
soundproofing dollar is a type of product that begins as a massive heap of old rubber
tires.
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When it comes to floors, the main acoustic challenge isnt just about keeping the
sound of voices, television and music from spilling over into other levels of your
home or into neighbouring condos. An added task is halting the transmission of
medium frequency thuds caused by people walking around, children dropping toys or
the movement of heavy objects on floors above. In fact, this can be the most
dicult acoustic hurdle to clear, especially if youre committed to a hard surface
floor.
Sound engineers measure the transmission of impact noises like these on a scale
called Impact Insulation Class (IIC). A good rating for a residential floor is around 50
IIC, though its quite common for unprotected hard surface floors to only reach the
high 20s or low 30 IIC. Even if youre separated from your upstairs condo neighbours
by 8 inches of reinforced concrete, the moment they switch from carpet to ceramics,
youll know exactly when they get up to go to the bathroom at night. The solution to
both these problems is found in the application of a dense, rubber underlay. Typically
about 3 mm thick, think of it as high performance shock absorbers for your floors.
A handful of dierent brands of sound -reducing

rubber underlay are on the market, but one of the
most innovative is produced at the NRI Industries
plant on Symington Avenue in Toronto. Five hundred
people work at this facility, turning 1.5 million old
tires each year into products for automotive and
industrial applications, as well as an acoustic rubber
floor underlay called Sound Down (800-387-8501; nriindustries.com).
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Independent lab testing of this product by the Institute for Research in

Construction (a branch of the National Research Council), shows that Sound Down
increases the impact rating of engineered hardwood applied over 8 of bare concrete
from an IIC of 34 to a whopping 61. The product costs about $1.20 per square foot,
and was released onto the retail market a month ago.
One of the most eective uses of acoustic rubber underlay is in all those homes built
before the emergence of plywood as a subfloor material. Prior to the 1970s, subfloors
were always built with boards typically 6 to 8 wide, laid diagonally across floor
joists. Sizable gaps almost always exist between these boards and they let huge
amounts of sound pass from one floor to another. So much for the good old days of
homebuilding.
But installation of acoustic rubber underlay over these old-style subfloors is one of
the most eective ways to reduce the torrent of floor noise. And when used in
conjunction with a screw-anchored plywood subfloor added on top, the system gets
rid of squeaks better than anything else.
Sound Down is also the only acoustic rubber underlay I know of thats rated
specifically for use directly underneath ceramic tile. Nestle the 4-foot x 8-foot or 3
1/2-foot x 4-foot flexible sheets into a coat of thinset adhesive applied to a stable
subfloor, then put ceramic tiles on top with more thinset.
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One of the most encouraging things about todays homebuilding scene is the extent
to which innovation is making a dierence. Even in an industry as slow-to-change as
the construction business, a flood of new ideas really are leading to better homes.
And when it comes to creating good floors, the rubber has really hit the road.
Sound Control Questions & Answers
Flooring Sound Insulation

Q: What can I put underneath new carpet to boost sound insulation?
My father recently faxed me an old article of yours about a rubber soundproofing
sheet material made especially for this job. Trouble is, I can find a source of supply.
My carpet will be installed over old hardwood. I understand that there are more
eective soundproofing solutions than underlay alone, but I cant do anything more
than this right now.
A: The company you want to contact is National Rubber Technologies, and their
floor product is called QuietDown (800-387-8501; www.nrtna.com) The rubber
sheeting they make is highly eective at reducing medium frequency noises from
people walking and moving furniture. If you want to reduce the transmission of
voices, TV and audio from one floor to another, consider lead sheeting as well.
Canada Metal (800-665-1332; www.canadametal.com) sells rolls of thin lead sheeting
especially for soundproofing purposes. A 1/64-inch-thick layer of the metal oers the
same sound blocking eect as 6 inches of solid concrete. When the metal is
encapsulated behind wall or floor coverings, it's also completely safe.
Q: How can I soundproof my bedroom wall?

Q: How can I soundproof my bedroom wall? I live in a 15-year-old townhouse and
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need to sleep during the day because of shift work. The family of five next door is
going about their normal routine, but the noise level is quite high in my place. It
appears that the sound is traveling through the steel floor frame from their family
room. Is there any product that can be blown into this area? What soundproofing
materials do you recommend for adjoining bedroom walls?
A: Your problem is very common and it points towards the need for higher
soundproofing building code standards in adjoining residential units. And while
upgrades are possible in completed homes like yours, success won't come easy. Your
first step towards a solution is deciding how badly you want one. Since all sound
abatement situations are unique, you really need to call in a professional with a
proven track record for sound control. This person will recommend various strategies
that might include spray-applied expanding foam insulation to fill the hollow floor
frame areas you mentioned, plus the construction of a second, insulated wall on your
side of the townhouse. Walls with staggered studs are a valuable part of a sound
abatement strategy because they limit sound transmission through framing members.
No stud extends from one side of the wall to the other. Included in the acoustic
recommendations should be seemingly subtle technical details like acoustic caulking
to seal joints and physical separation of the new wall from the existing one.Sound
is sneaky indeed, and it takes more than you'd think to control it properly.
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Section 14
General Home Improvement
What Homeowners are Really Interested In

I've discovered something encouraging about many Canadian homeowners, and e-
mail has made it happen. Since I began writing this weekly home improvement
column more than 10 years ago, I've answered thousands of homeowner questions,
and this exercise has taught me a lot. There are many more of you than I would've
guessed who care a great deal about doing a good job maintaining and renovating
your homes. The pattern of your questions also tells me what you're most interested
in, and that's where this particular column can help. I'm going to pack it with as
much information as I can about the most common home-improvement issues that I
know Canadians like you are dealing with.
More than most other home features, Canadians love a finished basement. Of all the
home-improvement questions I field, queries about basements are the most popular,
and that's a good thing too. Finishing a basement properly is trickier than it seems,
and a surprising number of people don't understand how to tackle the work for
optimal results.
First of all, dryness is essential. Don't just

hope that your basement is dry year-round,
prove it with patient observation over a 12
month period before you begin work. If you
ever see water, forget finishing until you get
the problem fixed. For floors, use one of the
s u b f l o o r t i l e p r o d u c t s l i ke D r i c o r e
(www.dricore.com; 866-976-6374), OvrX
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(www.ovrx.com; 866-544-6879) or Subflor (www.subflor.com; 866-782-3567). These all

include a wafer board top surface and either a dimpled plastic sheet or insulating
foam factory-bonded to the underside, depending on which brand you choose. I
know from first-hand experience that all these products deliver good insulation
properties along with tolerance for small amounts of unexpected moisture. As for
walls, insulate them with foam. It delivers better thermal performance than wood or
steel stud frame walls, and requires less skill to install. Foam is also more tolerant to
dampness than any fiber-based insulation product.
Another home-improvement issue that Canadians struggle with is indoor air quality,
especially during winter. Trouble is, few homeowners recognize that's what they're
up against. To the casual observer, bad household air shows up as damp,
condensation-prone windows. The best solution is to install a heat recovery
ventilator (HRV). It'll cost a couple of thousand dollars but if installed correctly itll
eliminate window condensation every time, while also making you healthier.
I can't begin to count how many sad ceramic

floor tiles stories I've heard over the years, and
how similar they all are. Trouble invariably
springs from the fact that tiles were installed
over an inadequate substrate. First, sections of
grout start to work loose, then a few tiles crack.
Then more. What can be done? Not much, at
least not after the fact. The seeds of inevitable
woe were sown when a bad installation plan was put into practice right from the get-
go. Ceramic tiles need a very rigid base, and this means a one-inch thick layer of steel
reinforced mortar, or a layer of cement board on top of an already sti wooden
subfloor. If you want to boost crack resistance even more, install a layer of dimpled
Ditra sheeting (www.schlutersystems.com; 800-667-8746) directly underneath tiles.
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I know for sure that many of you will be

building decks this spring, so be sure to use
screws and nails that are specifically rated to
resist corrosion in today's ACQ pressure-
treated lumber. Also, consider paying the
extra money for invisible fasteners. Smooth,
screw-free deck boards look terrific. My
favorites are the FastenMaster IQ system or
Tiger Claw hardware. And if you do decide
to finish your deck, pressure wash the wood, let it dry for a few days, then sand the
surface with a 60- or 80-grit abrasive. I know from experience that Cabot
(www.cabotstain.com; 800-877-8246) and Sikkens (www.namsikkens.com;
866-745-5367) deck finishing products last longer than most others.
Picture Hanging Made Easy

Hanging pictures, tapestries and wall art isnt as easy as it looks. At least not if you
want to hang them precisely on the first try it isnt. By the time you centre the frame
on a particular section of wall, then determine the ideal height, youve still got to
measure up or down from the edge of the frame to find the spot for the nail. This is
the tricky part. Its more than easy to be o by enough to make the results look
shabby. And things get more complex when you want to hang more than one frame
side-by-side, all at the same height. Its for reasons like these that a surprising
number of people claim incompetence when it comes to hanging pictures. Its also
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why Liette Tousignant and Kelly Krake spent 10

years bringing a simple plastic tool called Hang &
Level to market. For $20, it may well be the
cheapest relationship counseling youll ever find at
a Home Depot.
Liette and Kelly are a wife-and-husband team who

operate Under the Roof Decorating; a Calgary-
based company that helps people decorate their
walls. Liette found that one of the most time-
consuming parts of her work involved hanging art
quickly and easily.
As an interior decorator, my biggest frustration was hanging pictures or any other

wall decoration, explains Liette. Hanging stu in the right place on the first try
was definitely a hair-pulling experience. You know how frustrating it is to hang
something on your own walls, so just imagine the pressure when youre paid to do it
while a homeowner is looking over your shoulder.
The technical challenge of picture hanging has nothing to do with driving the screws
or nails that hold things up. It has everything to do with finding the precise location
for those nails and screws. Wires and hooks on the back of frames can vary in height
quite a bit, even on matching sets of frames. This is where Im impressed by the way
Hang & Level helps. If youve got more than a few items to put up, its definitely a
lifesaver.
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The tool includes a trio of hooks that temporarily holds the thing youre hanging.
Objects less than 10 lbs. hang on the single hook; heavier items (up to 20 lbs.) on the
two side-by-side hooks. Raise or lower the picture as it sits on the Hang & Level
until it looks just right, then lift the picture o the tool while it remains motionless
against the wall.
Nows the moment when the genius of the Hang & Level becomes apparent.
Without moving the tool as it sits on the wall, push in on the hook that the frame
was hanging on. This hook is flexible, and the back face includes a metal point that
marks the wall. Regardless of the kind of wire or hanger you have on the back of your
frame, or its relative position compared with neighbouring frames, the mark is spot-
on. Its exactly where you need to drive the anchor to support your picture at the
desired height. When youre done, the Hang & Level includes an onboard bubble
level that takes the guesswork out of adjusting the frame so its truly horizontal.
With your wall properly marked, youve got a choice about what you drive into the
wall to actually do the job. There are two options worth considering. Nail-and-hook
hangers are best for lightweight objects, and metal picture screws are ideal for items
up around 20 lbs. Simply drive them right into any drywall surface with a slot
screwdriver, and youre ready to hang. No plastic insert needed. The wedge-shaped
threads grip firmly without help, even in the crumbly core of drywall.
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The only drawback with the Hang & Level is how eectively it works. For more than
a few homeowners who claimed to be picture incompetent (when theyre really just
looking for a way out of the work), theres not much of an excuse any more.
Making Your Workroom Really Work

Most houses have at least some space reserved for fixing and building things, usually
in the basement or in a utility room. But few home workrooms that I see take full
advantage of the tricks and accessories that make the most of available space. What
youll learn about here are 5 performance-boosting ideas to make your workroom
really work.
Hanging Shelves
Conventional, floor-type shelves can be troublesome in a workroom for two reasons:
first, they occupies valuable floor space and, second, they oer no flexibility to
accommodate your changing needs. A much better alternative is the hanging ceiling
shelf. This highly-eective storage option is based on a set of store-bought wire
hangers you buy in pairs and hang from hooks screwed into ceiling joists. I buy mine
from Lee Valley Tools (www.leevalley.com.) These frames cradle 12-inch wide wooden
shelf members that you cut yourself and slide in place. The length and location of the
hanging unit is completely up to you, as is the number of shelves. If you want more
levels, just hang more frames and boards down from the ceiling. Hanging shelves up
to 4-feet long work well with 3/4-inch thick plywood shelf members; shelves up to 8-
feet long require with 2 x 12 boards. The easiest way to get the wood youll need is at
a lumber yard that oers a cutting service. Most do. The pre-cut boards youll get are
not only ready-to-use, but easy to cart home in your car too.
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Focused Lighting
Shedding enough light on your work is important, but the real trick is doing it as
easily and inexpensively as possible, without calling in a team of electricians. The
best approach uses basic area lighting (a combination of fluorescent and
incandescent ), supplemented by movable lighting units you shue around while
tackling a variety of jobs. I have two movable lighting units: a 500 watt quartz
halogen floodlight mounted on the end of a shop-built wooden tool box I made, and
a 5-foot tall light stand with directional aluminum shade. The quartz unit oers very
bright, white illumination that works well indoors or out. The directional lamp is
great for illuminating small, bench-top jobs. When you switch o your supplemental
lights, youll be surprised by how dim your workroom really is without them.
Adjustable Low-Friction Support Stand

Its not unusual to require a temporary support stand if youre using power tools to
cut long pieces of wood in your workroom. In fact, tools like the table saw and chop
saw are virtually useless without an extra support of some kind, especially when
cutting plywood, paneling or long planks. The best way to create portable,
collapsible, adjustable work piece support is with a shop-built accessory you can use
along with one of those portable, vise-equipped folding benches, like a Workmate.
The accessory is based on a T-shaped assembly made out of scrap 3/4-inch plywood,
with a dozen roller balls screwed onto the horizontal arm of the T. Roller balls
are used in various manufacturing settings and look like a metal version of the top
half of a roll-on deodorant bottle. You can get them at woodworking specialty
outlets; they cost about $4.00 each. The spherical head of each roller ball works
alongside its neighbour to support any long work piece and ease its horizontal travel
across your saw. The vertical portion of the T-shaped plywood support is held in the
jaws of your Workmate, and can be raised or lower until its height is just right, then
locked in position. You can also use this set up on uneven ground outdoors, adjusting
the plywood T until its level with whatever machine you happen to be using.
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Inexpensive, High-Capacity Toolbox

The best thing to happen lately in the world of toolboxes are the woven nylon
pouches that turn ordinary, 20 litre plastic pails into top-notch tool caddies. Sold
under brand names like BucketBoss and Bucket Buddy, these things are a great idea
that should have been available 20 years ago. I have two in my own workshop, with a
third carrying trowels, shears and nippers out in the garden shed. Likely sources of
free plastic pails include bakeries and restaurants (bulk cooking oil is shipped in
wonderful pails), drywall contractors (the compound they use comes in pails too) and
painting contractors. Recycling depots are a great source of tool-tough buckets.
Knock-Down Saw Benches

Residential workrooms are almost always smaller than they should be, so flexibility of
use is important. An excellent way to temporarily increase your benchtop surface
area, without compromising floor space for other uses later, is with a system of
knock-down saw benches. The best Ive seen dont look anything like traditional saw
horses. Instead, they use three pieces of molded plastic that cradle standard 2x4
lumber to form a three-sided support table thats triangular when viewed from above.
The system is strong, stable (even on bumpy ground), and comes apart easily for
storage.
General Home Improvement Q&As

Crown Moulding Tips
Q: I'm renovating my house and am having trouble with crown moulding installation.
Whats the best way to join outside corners of crown so the seams show as little as
possible? No matter what I do I can't get a tight fit.
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A: The best way to join the outside corners of crown moulding is also the only way:
tight-fitting mitre joints. With the help of a chopsaw, and some practice, you'll be
able to get absolutely gap-free results. But plan on ruining a few pieces of crown as
the cost of your tuition. If youll be painting the installation, you're in luck. Achieving
tight joints becomes a lot easier. Any gaps can be filled with latex caulking before
painting. It even hides large gaps and accepts paint flawlessly. Take a look at the book
Trim Carpentry Techniques by Craig Savage. It's got an excellent section on installing
crown, including lots of tricks I don't have room to tell you about here.
Sliding Compound Saw Worth It?

Q: I'm planning a $50,000 addition to my home that I'll be framing myself. I also do
woodworking as a hobby. Is the extra cost associated with a sliding compound mitre
saw versus a non-sliding unit justified? Also, do you have any thoughts on the Bosch
10" sliding compound mitre saw or should I go with some other brand.
A: A sliding compound mitre saw is the ultimate tool for crosscutting wood to length
and for trim installation. And theres no question that this tool makes sense in your
situation. The big advantage is greater flexibility. You can make all the same cuts as
with a non-sliding saw, but crosscutting capacity is greatly increased with the sliding
design. Ive owned both slider and non-
slider saws, and theres no comparison
in performance. As for which brands
are currently the best, Ill know that
better in about a month. Thats when
Ill finish testing every sliding
compound mitre saw currently available
in Canada for a magazine article. You
can see part of the test group here.
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Tree Removal
Q: Theres a 75 year-old soft maple tree in my yard and it scares me. Its about 75 feet
tall, 3-feet in diameter at the base, with 7-feet of clear trunk before the first branches
sprout o. Four limbs have broken o over the last while, the last one crushing my
back fence and wrinkling my garden shed. Do you know of anyone who will remove
a large tree for free in exchange for the lumber?
A: It sounds like you've got a monster in your yard! It's too bad the tree is close
enough to your house to cause worry. As for removal, you could probably find
someone willing to take the wood by running an ad in the paper, but there's a real
danger in that. What if they blow the job, and crush your house? Theres substantial
risk here, and thats why hiring a professional arborist is the only way to go in my
book. It takes a great deal of skill, judgment and equipment to remove a large tree
safely. I'd be leery of turning the job over to an amateur because of these technical
concerns, and one other reason. Professional arborists carry insurance against
damage they may cause to your house. People working for free can't do that. Im all
for doing things yourself, but not when 10 tons of wood and thousands of dollars of
potential damage are at stake.
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Section 15
Cottages & Vacation Homes
Easy Way to Prime Cottage Water Systems

Every spring thousands of cottage owners struggle unnecessarily to get their water
systems primed and running for another season, and every spring a simple, fast and
stress-free alternative to this nasty chore goes unrecognized. And that's too bad,
because theres a technique thats eective enough to transform what's often many
hours of messy, tiresome labor into 10 minutes of easy work. All you need is $20
worth of plumbing hardware and a small, portable hand pump.
Most cottage water systems need seasonal attention for two reasons. Pumps and
pipes typically aren't protected from frost, so water needs to be completely drained
each fall so it won't freeze, expand and break things during winter. Trouble is, pumps
and intake pipes must also be refilled with water before they're capable of pumping
again during the new season. This filling operation is called priming, and it's not
always easy to do. The traditional approach involves hauling buckets of water up
from the lake by hand and pouring that water down a small hole in the top of the
pump until the entire intake line is filled. Until 10 years ago I helped friends through
three or four hours of this kind of miserable work each May, until I realized
something vital. It's easier to push water uphill with a pump than it is to dribble at
downhill with buckets. A lot easier.
The key that makes all this possible is a collection of metal fittings spliced into the
intake line as close as possible to the end that sits in the lake. These fittings include a
shut-o valve and a place to connect a hand pump that draws water from the lake and
pushes it all the way up the main intake line and into the water pump in your cottage.
Open the priming valve in spring, connect your hand pump to the fittings, fill the
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intake line with water, close the valve, remove the pipe and put the intake line in the
lake. That's it. After youre done, simply turn your cottage water pump on, and it
works because the intake line and pump are now filled with water. No need for
buckets, funnels, wet floors or super-human patience.
Even the smallest hardware store
carries the fittings you'll need to
install an easy-to-use priming
system. For years we hooked up a
hand-operated marine bilge
pump for the job, and it worked
beautifully. But things got even
easier for us when a neighbor
installed a frost proof, year-round
water system at his cottage.
These days we hook up a garden
hose to his outdoor tap, connect it
to the priming fittings, then turn the tap on. Ten minutes of pleasant conversation
while we wait for the pipe to fill, and the system is operational for another season of
lakeside living.
Not a plumbing kind of person? Don't worry.

Just print out the photo from this article and
hand it to any hardware store clerk. They'll give
you everything you need. Thread the fittings
together with teflon tape wrapped around the
joints to prevent leaking, then splice the
assembly permanently into the black plastic
intake line close to the end. You'll find a hacksaw
is perfect for cutting the black pipe to make the
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splice. Soften the plastic with a propane

torch, insert your fittings into the black pipe,
then tightened two screw clamps over each
connection while the plastic is still warm.
Before you prime using this system, open a tap

near your main water pump to let air escape as
the system fills with water from the bottom
up. If youre anything like me, youll never
cease to marvel at how a simple idea and a
little bit of inexpensive hardware can make
such a dierence.
Fixing Burst Pipes First Rite of Cottaging Season

Every May, cottagers head back up north to their favourite lakeside retreats, filled
with the anticipation of peace, serenity and the cry of the loon. But before they can
enjoy any of these things, many face a frustrating, psychological ordeal: trial by water
pipe. Will it be you? It may. Let me prepare you to prevail.
Somewhere deep within hundreds of cottages across the province, a little bit of water
remained hidden in copper pipes after everyone thought the system was drained
back in October. This water froze during, expanded and the subsequent burst pipe
lies in wait for smiling, unsuspecting cottagers. This sinister condition sits ready to
make itself known with a cascading fountain of despair as the pump pressures up
again, wetting everything in sight.
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My wife tells me that in the midst of lifes trials, what women really want is empathy,
not solutions. Im not so sure this applies to burst water pipes, though. When youre
50 miles from the nearest plumber, with a bunch of cranky kids lined up waiting to
use a bone-dry toilet, a solution is what we all want. Desperately. And to make that
happen you need a little bit of know-how, some simple materials and a few tools and
supplies. One new item, in particular, might even prevent you from burning your
cottage down while you complete the repair.
Fixing a burst copper water pipe involves three steps: cutting out the bad section,
preparing a piece of replacement pipe and couplings, then soldering these parts into
the system. Youll need about $20 worth of tools to make it all happen, and the first
item is something called a pipe cutter, though not the usual sort.
Existing pipes are almost always located close to framing members and other
building features, and this means theres rarely room to swing a regular pipe cutter.
T h a t s w h y y o u r c o t t a g e
plumbing repair kit should
contain whats called a mini-
cutter. It uses a hardened steel
wheel to score the pipe (just
like a regular cutter does), but
the cutter itself is very small. It
needs less than an inch of
clearance around the pipe to
work. Clamp it on the copper,
spin it around while continuing
to tighten the pressure knob,
and in less than a minute the pipe is cut.
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With the bad section removed, its time to prepare fresh replacement pipe. Make it a
little shorter than the piece you removed so you can slip it into place with couplings
on each end. Even the smallest cottage-country hardware store carries the parts you
need, though you really should keep a supply on hand. Remember, the kids can only
hold it for so long.
Soldering is one of those jobs that seem more challenging than it really is. Success is
virtually guaranteed as long as you do three simple things: clean all joint surfaces with
sandpaper until they shine, apply a coat of plumbers flux to the joints before
assembly, then heat the pipe with a propane torch until the metal itself is hot enough
to melt the solder as its touched to the surface.
All of this is simple and risk-free, except

for that business with the torch. With
tinder-dry wooden framing members and
building parts typically located very close
to pipes, the risk of fire is real. And this
is where something called Cold Coat can
help. Its a spray-on gel that forms a
temporary, protective coating around
joists, wires, plastic drainpipes and
subfloors. Ive used it, and this stu has to be seen to be appreciated. In fact, it
makes it almost impossible to accidentally ignite wood with a torch. A bottle costs
$10 at Home Depot and Home Hardware.
While its true that some of the sweetest sounds in cottage country are the cry of the
loon or the laughter of kids as they jump of the dock. But before you can enjoy any of
these, you need to hear something else first. Perhaps the best thing of all is the
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sound of the pressure switch as it shuts o the motor when the water tank gauge
reads a nice, steady 40-psi. Okay kids, the bathrooms all yours!
Composting Toilets Make Cottage Sense

Composting toilets are probably the world's least
glamorous product. What else can you say about a
hefty, box-like receptacle that sits in your bathroom
and processes month's worth of human waste right
next to the shower? But if you own a piece of cottage
country, you've got a responsibility to steward it with a
light touch, and thats what composting toilets help to
accomplish. After 40 years of first-hand experiences
in cottage country - both loving it and fearing for its
future - I'm here to make the case for the humble,
much-maligned composting toilet. Im convinced that
no other single piece of household technology oers
greater promise for keeping cottage country green, and
this fact is true in not just one way, but two.
Im the world's least likely spokesman for composting toilets. Revolting childhood
experiences with two ill designed composting toilets have burned ugly images into
my mind. Leaks, flies and false manufacturer claims for an odorless composting
process made me loath the composting toilet in our family cottage north of Parry
Sound to the point of constipation. But as it turns out, the realities of a growing
number of flush toilets in cottage country is pretty ugly, too. This fact has kept me
from giving up on composting toilets altogether, and it's a good thing. While
development pressures in cottage country have increased over the last few decades,
composting toilets have become a whole lot better in ways that might surprise you.
When a kitchen fire destroyed the Manitoulin Island cottage of Mike and Alice
Ogden in June 2005, they decided to rebuild in a way that blended appropriately with
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the lakeside setting of their property, while also allowing the new cottage to become
a year-round retirement home. They built small (about 700 sq. ft.), and they opted
for a composting toilet because of two very specific concerns.
"Our old cottage had a flush toilet that emptied into a primitive cesspool, and we
worried how continued use of this system with the new place would aect the water
quality of our lake," explains Mike.
No matter how little water a flush toilet uses, it's still pollutes water. Lots of it over
the course of a year. And if the waste system designed to treat toilet water
malfunctions in any way, the quality of surrounding lakes and rivers is vulnerable.
Composting toilets, on the other hand, don't produce dirty water, so they eliminate
all risks of contamination. Most basic, self-contained models include a heated,
ventilated chamber directly below the toilet seat. Waste is stored, dried and aerated
there with a roof-mounted vent drawing odours outdoors. The result is harmless,
soil-like compost that's removed from a sliding tray every six to 12 months. Larger
composting toilet systems include a remote composting chamber that's more suited
to year-round use. And unlike my loathsome childhood experiences, a number of
modern composting toilets actually perform like they're supposed to.
Mike and Alice have been using a Swedish-made Mulltoa 60 for the last two years,
and they're completely pleased with its performance. "It's worked perfectly," says
Mike, "even when we've had a yard full of guests camping out and coming in to use
the bathroom. There's been no odour, no leakage and nothing to threaten the lake."
Another drawback of flush toilets in cottage country is the disruption involved in

creating a traditional septic system to treat all the polluted water they create. This
often means cutting down at least 1000 sq. ft. of forested land (sometimes much
more), then hauling in truckloads of fill to create a raised weeping bed. This is where
partially purified water trickles through the soil to clean it up. Besides costing many
thousands of dollars, weeping beds are always visually jarring in a forested landscape.
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That's the second reason composting toilets make sense. Weeping beds need to be
seeded, mowed and kept free of trees and bushes forever. "We simply weren't
prepared to cut down the forest next to our cabin just so we could have a flush
toilet," explains Mike. "That would be wrong."
Somewhere out there is a point where modest human expectations converge with
appropriate technology to create a sustainable lifestyle. I dont know exactly what
this looks like in every area of life, but when it comes to cottage country and toilets,
Im convinced that a good composting toilet comes very close to the ideal.
Cottages & Vacation Home Q&As
Swimming Raft Material

Q: Is it environmentally responsible to use pressure-treated wood to build a dock and
swimming raft at our cottage?
A: According to a number of jurisdictions across North America, yes, it is safe to use

today's pressure-treated wood for docks, rafts and other water contact structures.
The pressure-treated lumber you buy today does not contain arsenic, as it did up to
four years ago. The active ingredient these days is an insoluble form of copper.
Just the same, you might feel uneasy about pressure-treated lumber, and I can
understand why. Things deemed safe by experts one day don't always remain that way
the next. So if you have any concerns, consider using cedar. Most cottage country
communities have small sawmills nearby that produce locally cut white cedar at
reasonable prices.
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Section 16
Tools
Choosing the Best Router for Your Workshop

Routers are hand-held woodworking power tools that have become a mainstay in
todays workshops because they open up so many possibilities for fun and creativity.
The easiest way to understand the router is to think of it in its simplest form: a high-
speed electric motor with handles. Routers can spin any one of hundreds of dierent
cutting bits at more than 20,000 revolutions per minute, allowing them to shape
wood very smoothly. The type of router bit, the size of the router and the magnitude
of your imagination governs what you can accomplish.
What Can You Rout?

The easiest way to use a router is to decorate the edges of projects. In fact, when
routers first became popular back in the 70s, thats pretty well all anyone did with
them because of the limitations imposed by the primitive bits of the day. Thats too
bad, because early router advocates often went berserk in this regard, rounding and
decorating everything in sight, just because it could be done.
Yes, rounding, curving and embellishing edges still has its place, but theres more to
routers than just that. Changes in attitudes and technology have advanced to the
point where a router can now be used to make major contributions to most
woodworking projects, without overdoing it visually.
For example, routers are one of the best ways to create the deep, enclosed recesses
that form half of the legendary mortise and tenon joint. Routers are also unbeatable
for milling interlocking tongue and groove edges on boards, making top-notch
moulding for your house, preparing corner joints for window and door frames, and
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making beautiful interlocking finger and dovetail joints on boxes, drawers and
storage chests. Routers are also powerful copying tools able to quickly replicate
wooden parts like nothing else.
Choosing a Router
If I had to list power tools in descending order of usefulness for a home workshop,
routers wouldnt be on top, but theyd be pretty close to it. If youre building a tool
collection, look seriously at a multi-purpose router only after youve got a good
tablesaw and belt sander. Id look at a drill press and thickness planer only after I had
a router.<
The first router in your tool collection should be a generalist, capable of many
dierent tasks. Forget the really big, heavy, $300 machines, and the little one-handed
pip-squeaks. These are specialized tools thatll be less than ideal for the wide mix of
work youll be doing early in your routing career.
For general-purpose use, choose from mid-sized machines that draw between 8 and
12 amps of current, include variable speed control, and come with something called a
plunge base. This is a comparatively recent router innovation that allows you to
raise and lower the position of the routers bit, relative to the work surface, with the
flick of a lever during a cut. Machines with this capability are called plunge routers.
Being able to plunge into and out of a cut on the fly is a plus youve got to experience
to fully understand. It adds another dimension to your routing possibilities, at little
extra cost.
Another consideration is collet size. This refers to the diameter of router bit shaft
(also called the shank in the trade) that can be held by a router. When you make
your selection, youll be faced with machines that accept 1/4-inch diameter router bit
shanks only, 1/2-inch shanks only, or both 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch shanked bits. Even
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though most of the router bits youll want to use are available with either 1/4-inch or
1/2-inch shanks, theres a surprising advantage to having 1/2-inch hardware at certain
times. During a heavy cut, for instance, some 1/4-inch bits can flex slightly under
load, causing visible ripples in the routed surface. 1/2-inch bits, on the other hand, are
rock solid, even when the going gets tough. I always opt for 1/2-inch shank bits
whenever a choice is oered.
Bits Get Better

With all the fuss about improvements in routers, its easy to forget that without a
good bit, the router itself is useless. To shop for router bits eectively, youve got to
realize youre making a long-term investment. Thatll get you into the mood for
spending what might seem like the large amount of money youll need to commit to
get a good bit.
Youll be far better o paying for good bits right from the start. These stay sharper
during use, and when the carbide does eventually get dull, it can be resharpened
inexpensively at specialty shops youll find listed in the yellow pages or online
The Ultimate Router Accessory

Routers are considered hand-held power tools, but that doesnt mean they cant also
be stationary. In fact, to get the most out of any mid-sized router, youll eventually
have to get a router table. This allows you to invert the router and bolt it to the
underside of a waist-high table, with the bit sticking up through the table top. You
can now slide the work piece over the router, instead of the other way around.
Whenever youre routing small pieces of wood, making moulding or duplicating
parts, a router table is a must.
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It used to be that the only way to get a good router table was to build one yourself.
During the last few years, however, ready-made router tables of excellent quality have
appeared on the market.
Choosing a Benchtop Scrollsaw

Some people are pleasantly surprised to find they can enjoy building things out of
wood using inexpensive power tools, even if they live in an apartment or small house.
One of the easiest ways to have woodworking fun, without spending a lot of money
or making a lot of noise, is with a scrollsaw. Theyre also great for kids to use under
adult supervision.
A scrollsaw is a stationary benchtop power tool thats tailor-made for cutting fine
curves in wood. This kind of work is the heart of traditional woodworking like
intarsia (making 3-D pictures with wood), fretwork (the creation of intricate,
decorative cutouts in wood), making wooden puzzles, producing miniatures like doll
house furniture, creating and tole painting silhouettes. If youre interested in a small-
scale woodworking hobby, the scrollsaw is a great entry-level tool. A reasonable one
costs less than $300 (tax included), and will give you years of fun. You can easily
move a scrollsaw around in your home, and it costs little to keep one fed with wood,
new blades and electricity. Its easy to get along with a scrollsaw.
What Makes a Scrollsaw Tick

All scrollsaws use a very narrow steel blade held in tension to make cuts in wood,
plastic and soft metal. The blade is mounted between the two oscillating arms of the
saw and moves rapidly up and down through a hole in the saws work table when its
switched on.
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Scrollsaws are rated in terms of the number of inches between the blade and the
back of the saw, where both blade-support arms join. This is called the throat depth
and indicates the maximum distance that can be cut in from the edge of a work
piece. A very popular scrollsaw size is 16, though much larger ones are available.
Better saws include a variable speed feature that allows you to slow the action of the
blade, aording more control while cutting delicate or hard materials. Variable speed
is no gimmick. Its a worthwhile scrollsaw feature because it allows a wider range of
cutting options.
Also important is a scrollsaws dust blower. This is a small hose, nozzle or pipe that
pus air gently across the cutting line during use, keeping it free of sawdust and easy
to see. Although most machines have a dust blower, theres quite a variation in
designs from make-to-make. Some blower nozzles are easy to adjust and use while
others are not. Check it out in the store.
Choosing the Right Saw for You

When I buy woodworking power tools, I usually order them from one of a handful of
Canadian mail-order suppliers. I find the selections are excellent and prices
very competitive. They all deliver nation-wide. One of the largest is House of Tools
(www.houseoftools.com; 800-661-3987).
Most power tool manufacturers oer a no-questions-asked return policy on their

products, including scrollsaws. Check out the details with your supplier if you think
you might need to use this customer service feature.
Blades Make a Big Dierence

Scrollsaw blade technology has improved a lot during the last 10 years. And to get the
most out of your saw, youll have to learn a bit about what dierent blades can do,
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and how to recognize quality. Even good scrollsaws rarely come with good blades, so
youll have to get some before you start work. If you dont have a woodworking
specialty outlet near your home, you can still get top-quality scrollsaw blades
delivered to your door by mail. Two reputable Canadian outlets Ive dealt with are
Bear Woods Supply (www.bearwood.com; 800-565-5066) and Stockade Wood and
Craft Supply (www.stockade.ca; 800-463-0920). Both have catalogues and friendly,
helpful sta.
What About Dust?

Even though scrollsaws are small, they can generate more dust than youd want to
land on your kitchen table, especially of youre cutting factory-made sheet materials
like medium density fibreboard (MDF). If youre planning to use your scrollsaw
outside of a regular workroom, consider getting a model that includes a suction port
you can connect to a vacuum cleaner. Not all do.
Most ordinary household vacuum cleaners are sucient to handle the dust generated
by a scrollsaw, though a dedicated workshop vac is better. A few strips of duct tape
will help you make a hose connection between your vacuum and the saws dust port if
the two parts dont mesh together perfectly.
.
Want to Learn More?
Patrick Spielman is a man who has championed the cause of scrollsawing in many
books. One of the best for beginners is Scroll Saw Basics. More advanced titles
include Artistic Scroll Saw Patterns and Projects and Scroll Saw Scandinavian
Patterns and Projects.
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Pruning Tools Get Better

Pruning your bushes, trees and shrubs has never been easier, but sometimes its hard
to see exactly how. Thats because walking down the gardening tool aisle of the
average home improvement store is like entering a hall of mirrors. Reality isnt
always as it seems. Sure, all the pruning gear looks great on the shelves, but how will
it perform when you get home?
Ever since the weather got warm, Ive been using the latest in gardening tools, with a
special emphasis on pruning equipment. Cutting o branches and limbs is important
for optimizing trees and bushes, but its also where Canadian gardeners struggle the
most. Wood is hard, and this can make pruning physically dicult unless youre
properly equipped.
Theres been more than the usual amount of innovation in the pruning tool scene
lately, and one of the best examples doesnt look like anything special. In fact, until I
used it, the Gardena StarCut 160 BL seemed rather silly.
Its a 62-inch-long straight sta with a set of swiveling pruner jaws at one end. There
are no arms to work back and forth, just a small, plastic tee-handle. This handle is
connected to the jaws by a woven cord, and this is where my doubts came from.
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The StarCut is rated to handle branches up to 1 1/2 inches

thick, and I know from experience that it takes a lot of
muscle to make a regular pair of scissor-style loppers chew
through this much wood. So how could pulling down on a
plastic handle ever live up to this same challenge? But one
cut with the StarCut changed my mind. And it showed me
something that I should have noticed before.
The genius behind the StarCut is leverage.. Thats what I

missed at first glance, and thats what put a smile on my
face the first time I used this tool. It takes a 19-inch long pull on the handle to make
the jaws move 1 1/2 inches to close, and this is why the tool is so very easy to operate.
Remarkably easy. Besides the fact that it lets you reach and prune branches that are
more than 10 feet high, the StarCut takes a very small amount of strength to use. In
fact, on branches 3/4-inch in diameter or less, you hardly even know youre cutting.
The tool also has a secondary handle mounted in the middle of the tool for trimming
shorter branches when you dont need the full reach of the shaft.
My sixteen-year-old son has an unusual summer job. He manages 600 feet of pick-
your-own raspberries we have, and that makes him something of an expert on hand-
held pruners.
The biggest part of maintaining a raspberry patch is cutting away all the canes that
bore fruit last year, and each spring Robert probably completes 7,000 or 8,000
individual snips making room for the new crop. For years weve used traditional,
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hand-held pruning shears for this job, with no reason to expect wed find anything
better. But this spring Robert used a pair of Fiskars Power Gear pruners instead, just
for comparison. Made mostly of plastic, these dont look as impressive as the all-
metal professional pruners weve used for years. But they do have an innovation that
makes them less tiring to use. Much less tiring.
Instead of an ordinary pair of rigid handles, the

Fiskars has a swiveling bottom handle. It rotates
as it pivots while you close the tool with your
hand, and this action oers two benefits. First,
rolling eliminates friction between your fingers
and the handle surface. The handle rolls with
your skin instead of sliding against it, reducing
blisters. Theres another advantage, too.
The end of the rolling handle engages with the

body of the pruners via a rack-and-pinion gear
assembly. This feature converts the rolling
action of the handle into additional slicing force
at the jaws. The bottom line is simple: the Fiskars are easier to use. I know because
theyre the ones Robert grabs before crawling down raspberry rows after supper,
snipping while he listens to his iPod.
Every year the world gains a few great gardening tools, and thats a welcome thing.
Youre not likely to have much fun in the garden without some good gear at your
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side, even if they do start o hidden in a sea of sensational mediocrity lining

gardening aisles everywhere.
Wheelbarrows, Garden Carts Better Than Ever

Contrary to popular belief, you really can get something for nothing. At least when it
comes to wheelbarrows, anyway. I know because I have an unusually close
relationship with them. Ive used one at least several times a week for the last twenty
years, including a three-year stint in the late 1980s when a wheelbarrow served as my
only bathtub while I built my backwoods country home. But with what Ive
discovered recently, I like wheelbarrows more than ever.
Without added energy inputs of any kind, a good wheelbarrow easily triples or
quadruples the amount of weight you can move with your body. Wheelbarrows have
always oered leverage like this, but design innovations have exploded in a way that
makes them even more useful for homeowners not afraid to get their hands dirty
around the yard or cottage. Over the last couple of years Ive been using a dozen
dierent models as Ive plumbed the state of wheelbarrow technology. In my quest to
sample the worlds best designs, my yard has looked like a used barrow lot. Double-
wheel contractor models, high-capacity garden carts, poly-tub builder wheelbarrows,
and even a couple of motorized models could all be found lined up next to my
workshop or rolling around various parts of my yard. Using them all has been fun,
but surprising, too.
If youre looking to buy a new wheelbarrow, start by taking a look at tires. There are
lots of models out there that use rock-hard, solid rubber tires, but Ive never found
they work well, except for the lightest duty jobs. If you think you need a
wheelbarrow, you probably need a better than basic model, and this means an air-
filled tire. The semi-squishy consistency helps even out rough ground, making it
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much easier to push a load over bumps and hollows. Just about the only thing better
is a semi-squishy tire that never goes flat.
One of the smartest innovations in the

wheelbarrow world is flat-proof tires. They
offer all the performance and grip of
regular air-filled tires, except they never let
you down. They cant because they hold no
air. Instead of a standard, tubeless design,
flat-proof tires are made of semi-solid foam
a l l t h e w a y t h r o u g h . To d a y s b e s t
commercial-duty wheelbarrows roll o the
factor y floor with flat-proof tires as
standard equipment. You can also get them as aftermarket add-ons for older
wheelbarrows, too. Lee Valley Tools (800-267-8767; www.leevalley.com) is where I got
my flat-proof wheel kit.
The only problem with almost every good wheelbarrow Ive used is the space they
take up when youre not using them. Wheelbarrows are big, and thats why I was
p a r t i c u l a r l y i n te r e s te d i n Ca n a d i a n - b a s e d Fo l d - a - Ca r t w h e e l b a r r o w s
(www.foldatools.com; 866-977-3653).
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Their collapsible design hangs up in the same amount

of space as a couple of lawn chairs, though compact
s t o r a g e d o e s nt c o m e a t t h e p r i c e o f p o o r
performance. At least not for household landscaping
tasks, anyway. The Fold-a-Cart can be a little
cantankerous to lock in the open or closed position,
but once youve got the knack, it works pretty well.
The 9 cu. ft Fold-a-Cart wheelbarrow Ive been using

has a tubular steel frame supporting a flexible pan
made of a polyester-reinforced, PVC coated material.
Its tight enough to hold water and tough enough to
resist damage as you shovel out topsoil or mulch.
Before you go out and buy a wheelbarrow, stop for a minute. You may not really want
one at all. If the main thing you move around your property is topsoil, mulch,
transplants and fertilizer, then youre probably better o with a garden cart, not a
wheelbarrow.
An outfit called Carts Vermont makes

my all-time favourite garden cart.
They pioneered a design that uses a
huge, plywood cargo box rolling on
full-size bicycle wheels. This potent
combination lets you carry huge loads
(up to 400 lbs on the unit I have),
with almost no strain on your arms.
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You might be able to improve your home or tend a garden without a wheelbarrow,
but why would you want to? After all, wheelbarrows oer the only free lunch youre
likely to find these days. Just be sure the neighbours arent looking when you use one
to take a backyard bath.
Bench Grinders Now Cheaper, Better Than Ever

Sometimes a surprisingly small
investment in a tool youve never
considered before can pay o big in
surprising ways around the house.
Bench grinders are a case in point.
They spin round, grinding wheels
that al low shaping and rough
sharpening of all kinds of ferrous
metals. Most homeowners never
consider a bench grinder, let alone
realize theyve become astonishingly inexpensive lately. Bench grinder quality is on
the rise, too. For less than $100 you can get a terrific bench grinder thats better than
models costing two or three times as much 10 years ago.
Bench grinders are one of those tools that prove useful in ways you dont suspect
until you own one. I'm always surprised by how often I switch mine on for small
repairs and projects. But for success to happen, you need to make the right buying
decision, while also understanding how to use the tool and maintain it.
Bench grinders typically come in two sizes: 6-inch and 8-inch. These dimensions
refer to the diameter of the wheel that the grinder spins. For years, 6-inch bench
grinders were the standard for general home workshop use. This is the size I used at
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my own place for a decade, until a year ago when I discovered how inexpensive 8-
inch models have become. That's when I upgraded to the Ryobi you see here. The
larger diameter wheel removes metal much more quickly than my old six-inch
grinder because the surface of the wheel travels faster. This model also has built-in
work lights and a small drawer to hold water for cooling metal that you're grinding. I
find it kind of scary to think that somewhere out there people can build, ship and
retail a tool like this for $70.
There's one small thing you need to understand about keeping any kind of bench
grinder working properly, and it's an easy thing to miss. As the surface of the spinning
stone wears away during use, the abrasive particles on the wheel become dull and
clogged with bits of metal. That's why grinding wheels always become progressively
less and less eective as time goes on, unless you do something up about it.
To restore the eectiveness of your

bench grinder, you'll need to remove
the glazed surface and shape the
surface of the spinning wheels with
something harder and more abrasive
than the wheels themselves. And
for this you need a small tool called
a diamond dresser. The Ryobi
bench grinder I got a year ago came
with a small wheel-dressing tool, but
it's not great. It only worked a few times before wearing out. That's when I reached
for the diamond point wheel dresser that I've been using regularly since 1985. Mine
has a single, quarter-carat industrial diamond set into the tip. You move the diamond
back and forth across the face of the spinning wheel to remove metal buildup and
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reestablish a flat, square face. You can buy high quality, diamond tipped wheel
dressing tools like this at woodworking specialty outlets for less than $25.
Are you planning to use your bench grinder to shape fine edge tools like knives,
chisels and plane irons? You'll need to be careful. If enough heat builds up in these
tools to turn them blue while grinding, it changes the consistency of the metal,
making it too soft to hold an edge. That's why it pays to invest in a special grinding
wheel for delicate applications. Lee Valley Tools (800-267-8767; www.leevalley.com) is
the only place I know of that sells a soft, white, cool-running grinding wheel. You can
still overheat tools on a wheel like this, but it's much easier to do a good job.
Bench grinders dont make sense for every homeowner. But if youre ready to sharpen
lawnmower blades and edge tools, or to shape and tweak items made of steel, nows a
pretty good time to look at the tool that makes this possible.
Cordless Drill That Works When You Need It

Sometimes cordless drills make me really angry. A little job comes up around the
house, you dig out a drill you havent used in months, then pull the trigger. Nothing
happens. The blasted things dead. Even though you put the tool away all charged up,
youve got to plug it in for at least 30 minutes before you can get anything done.
Traditional nickel cadmium batteries are to blame. They discharge on the shelf with
infuriating speed, which is one reason I was so happy to see lithium-ion (Li-ion)
batteries make it into cordless tools back in January 2005. They hold a charge for
more than a year. Trouble is, Li-ion has also been too expensive for general consumer
tools. At least until now. Ive been waiting to see which power tool company would
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be the first to oer Li-ion technology

in a reasonably-priced household drill,
and the contest is over. The winner is
orange, black and silver.
The Black & Decker SC1400-CA is the

first reasonably-priced consumer-duty
drill Ive seen powered by a Li-ion
battery. Its a 14.4 volt unit that weighs
less than 3 lbs., and I was especially eager to try this model when I first discovered it
because of what I know about typical homeowner tool use.
The average person isnt into big renovations and serious building. They dont need a
drill for that sort of work. Instead, many folks want a lightweight tool that works
whenever they pick it up. The SC1400-CA delivers on this count, plus a few more
ways, too.
In some ways, tools are a lot like people. Sometimes superficial things matter, and
thats where a feature called overwrap helps. Its a soft, rubber-like, high-friction
material molded into the hand-grip areas of a growing number of power tools.
Manufacturers started using it about ten years ago, and while overwrap was originally
found only on high-end, professional-grade tools, thats changing. The SC1400-CA is
a case in point. It has lots of strategically placed overwrap, just where you want it.
Overall, I found this tool particularly well balanced and easy to hold.
The only thing I dont like about the SC1400-CA is the charger. It takes 3 to 9 hours
to fully top-up the battery. Thats longer than necessary in an age where 20- and 30-
minute chargers are common, though it might not matter to you. Since the drill
comes with a cradle charger thats also permanent home to the drill, youll always be
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starting jobs with a full battery if you store the tool as intended. And like I said, since
the SC1400-CA isnt designed for tackling big jobs all day, you probably wont run the
battery down before youre done anyway. Or will you?
If youre planning to build a deck, equip a home workshop or complete home

renovations, then the SC1400-CA isnt the first drill you should buy. Youll find one
of the many 18-volt models with a pair of batteries and a 30-minute charger does a
much better job. But even if you already keep one of these out in the garage, theres a
case to be made for having a simple, lightweight Li-ion drill handy in the den or
kitchen drawer. Half the battle of getting pesky, little jobs done around the house is
having tools at hand and ready to go.
The SC1400-CA doesnt have a removable battery like most other cordless drills.
And while this feature keeps costs down, its got to make you wonder, too. When the
batterys toast, so is the drill, right? Yes, but that may not be as bad as it sounds. One
of the advantages of Li-ion batteries is that they have longer working lives than
traditional nickel cadmium batteries. The two-year warranty on the drill also covers
batteries, too. And if the battery in the SC1400-CA is anything like other Li-ion
batteries Ive used, itll last longer than a couple of years. The oldest Li-ion batteries
I have are more than two years old now and going strong. Accurate charge indicator
lights are included on some Li-ion cordless tools, and the SC1400-CA is no
exception. Push the button and youll see at a glance how much gas youve got in the
tank.
There are cheaper, light-duty drills than the new $130 Black & Decker Li-ion model,
and thats probably going to fool some inexperienced tool buyers. What they dont
know is that the money they save up-front on tools theyll probably pay back later in
frustration, wasted time and a certain amount of regret. As least with Li-ion batteries
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on your side, youve got a pretty good chance of having the drill work when you need
it to.
Chopsaw: DIYers Best Friend Celebrates 40th Anniversary

If youve got plans for completing your own home improvements this fall and winter,
the year 1967 holds special significance. Thats when the Delta power tool company
quietly launched the worlds first mitre saw. Back then it was called a power
mitrebox, and while no one paid much attention at the time, this tool has since
gained universal acceptance with everyone who works with wood. Every power tool
manufacturer makes mitre saws these days, and theyve revolutionized the way
professionals build, trim and finish homes. But it doesnt stop there. The mitre saw
also empowers non-professionals to succeed more decisively while improving their
own homes. Even basic models enable ambitious amateurs to make perfectly smooth
and accurate crosscuts with almost no practice. The biggest hitch is choosing the
right mitre saw for the kind of work youll be doing, and this is where I can help. Ive
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been using mitre saws for 20 years while

watching them evolve more features, greater
quality and lower prices. Can you tell I like
mitre saws? Its an easy friendship.
Sometimes called a chopsaw or trim saw, all

mitre saws work in similar ways. A swiveling
motor assembly tilts downwards under hand
pressure, advancing the blade into a stationary
work piece to complete each cut. All makes
and models adjust for a range of dierent cut
angles, allowing even inexperienced do-it-
yourselfers to succeed cutting wall frame parts,
window trim, baseboards, laminate flooring,
woodworking project parts, tomato plant
stakes and just about anything else thats
relatively long and narrow and needs to become shorter. Mitre saws are even a big
help when installing plastic drainpipe or central vacuum lines. It slices plastics just as
well as it does wood. With the right blade, you can even use a mitre saw to cut non-
ferrous metal like aluminum, brass or copper.
The first thing to understand before choosing a mitre saw is that there are two basic
types: regular and sliding. Regular models are similar to the original designed
pioneered 40 years ago in that the motor hinges up and down. A regular, non-sliding
mitre saw spinning a 10-inch diameter blade crosscuts a 2x6 at 90 degrees. This is just
fine for most do-it-yourselfers finishing a basement or installing trim. Non-sliding
models with a 12-inch blade are heavier in weight and can crosscut a 2x8.
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So-called sliding mitre saws advance the performance of the tool one big step further
by putting the entire motor and blade assembly on sliding rails. This is the second
type of saw, and it allows much wider pieces of wood to be cut. Even the smallest
sliders saw all the way across wood as wide as 12 inches in a single pass, using nothing
more than an 8 1/2-inch diameter blade. Sliding mitre saws also come with 10- and
12-inch blades, allowing them to handle thicker wood. On the downside, sliding mitre
saws are more expensive, heavier and they require more space to operate.
Regardless of the design, there are two things you need to know as a new mitre saw
owner: most saws come out of the box demanding at least a little adjustment, and
most also need a blade upgrade for optimal results. Expect to spend a little time
following the instruction manual tweaking your new saw so it cuts square when its
supposed to. Nothing to worry about, though. Ten minutes spent with a wrench
should do it.
Go ahead and use the blade that came with your saw, as long as you understand that
its probably cutting much less smoothly than the tool is capable of. Just as carmakers
rarely install long-lasting, high-quality tires on brand new vehicles, tool
manufacturers know that blade quality wont make or break a sale. Thats why mitre
saws typically come with low-cost, ho-hum blades. Theyre fine for rough work, but
leave lots of unnecessary splinters behind on trim. Expect to pay $80 to $100 for a
top quality crosscut blade with carbide teeth. This sounds expensive, but dont be
fooled. Its actually quite cheap. Good carbide saw blades can be sharpened and re-
sharpened more than half a dozen times, making them less expensive than
throwaway blades that produce less than smooth results.
Perhaps Im the only one to remember the 40th anniversary of the saw that changed
the world, but thats okay. The mitre saw isnt really about history, its about helping
you succeed with home renovations. And for this, nothing else compares.
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Great Hands-On Gifts

There are two kinds of people you have to buy presents for: people who think like
you, and people who dont. I have no trouble choosing great gifts for hands-on folks
who build things and spend time outdoors. I simply choose whatever looks good to
me, then relax. But ask me to buy something for those other kinds of people the
ones whod rather spend time in a high-fashion clothing store than a lumberyard --
and I get nervous. The only clothes that excite me are overalls and my army surplus
parka. Are you a clothing-store-sort-of-person with lumberyard-loved-ones on your
gift list? Follow my advice and youll look pretty smart this holiday season.
If youre looking for a mid-priced gift in the $75 to $200

range, then cordless tools are a great bet. There are two
reasons why. First, lumberyard sorts of people love
cordless. The ability to drill, cut and drive screws
without a power cord is the DIY equivalent of a
designer outfit from New York or Paris.
Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries are one of the cordless

tool features that make for a good gift. They first
appeared in high-end professional tools back in 2005,
but now youll find them in reasonably priced consumer
versions, too. Li-ion batteries are lighter in weight than
traditional nickel cadmium batteries, and they hold a charge longer while the tool sits
on the shelf between uses. One of the first lithium-ion drills to appear on the
consumer market was the Black & Decker SC1400-CA. At $130, its a good, general-
purpose 14.4-volt household drill that Ive been using with success. Youll find the
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tool at Rona stores. There are better drills for construction work, but the SC1400-
CA oers solid domestic service.
For years tool manufacturers have focused R&D eorts on bigger, more powerful
cordless models. And while this is fine, sometimes what you really want is an
excellent quality, compact cordless tool for driving screws and drilling small holes.
Bosch was the first to t a ke
serious aim at this category and they
now oer the best lithium-ion
cordless drivers in the sub-compact
cla ss. At about $190, the 10.8 volt
Pocket Driver and Impactor are two
cases in point. Theyre small,
light and a m a z i n g l y
powerful for their size. The Pocket
Driver is best suited for quietly installing small screws. As the name suggests, the
Impactor includes an impact drive mechanism that allows it to reliably drive screws
up to 3 inches (75 mm) long, as I did by the hundreds this past summer. You can
certainly find cheaper cordless tools out there, but I have yet to see any compact
models that are better than these. Home Depot stocks both.
Do you have friends moving into their own place for the first time? This is a great
opportunity to give hands-on gifts to people who normally wouldnt want anything
practical. The list of options is massive, but you might not yet know about the 6 1/2-
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long condo hammer. I call it the hammer for

people who arent into hammers, and my 13-year-old
daughter proved it. Shes definitely not into
hammers, yet when I pulled the cute, short-handled
little beauty out of the box, she made the same
sound she does when she sees a puppy. At $6, its
the perfect tool for tapping in picture hooks and
completing other light-duty tasks. It tucks away nicely in a kitchen drawer when
youre done. Youll find the condo hammer at Lee Valley Tools (www.leevalley.com;
800-267-8767).
Do you know someone tackling a hands-on home renovation? Work of this sort
always begins with calculated destruction, and thats where one of Stanleys Fubars
can help. Its a multi-function wrecking
bar that comes in three sizes: 15 (38
cm) -- $39.99; 18 (45 cm) -- $49.99; and
30 (76 cm) -- $99.99. Fubars are
available at lumberyards everywhere.
Besides the thin tip for prying, the head
also includes a set of fixed jaws sized to
slip over standard construction lumber.
This feature allows you to lever wonky
studs and joists into alignment, then hold them straight as you nail the disobedient
wood into submission.
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Section 17
Woodworking & Wood Finishing
Choosing a Benchtop Scrollsaw

Some people are pleasantly surprised to find they can enjoy building things out of
wood using inexpensive power tools, even if they live in an apartment or small house.
One of the easiest ways to have woodworking fun, without spending a lot of money
or making a lot of noise, is with a scrollsaw. Theyre also great for kids to use under
adult supervision.
A scrollsaw is a stationary benchtop power tool thats tailor-made for cutting fine
curves in wood. This kind of work is the heart of traditional woodworking like
intarsia (making 3-D pictures with wood), fretwork (the creation of intricate,
decorative cutouts in wood), making wooden puzzles, producing miniatures like doll
house furniture, creating and tole painting silhouettes. If youre interested in a small-
scale woodworking hobby, the scrollsaw is a great entry-level tool. A reasonable one
costs less than $300 (tax included), and will give you years of fun. You can easily
move a scrollsaw around in your home, and it costs little to keep one fed with wood,
new blades and electricity. Its easy to get along with a scrollsaw.
What Makes a Scrollsaw Tick

All scrollsaws use a very narrow steel blade held in tension to make cuts in wood,
plastic and soft metal. The blade is mounted between the two oscillating arms of the
saw and moves rapidly up and down through a hole in the saws work table when its
switched on.
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Scrollsaws are rated in terms of the number of inches between the blade and the
back of the saw, where both blade-support arms join. This is called the throat depth
and indicates the maximum distance that can be cut in from the edge of a work
piece. A very popular scrollsaw size is 16, though much larger ones are available.
Better saws include a variable speed feature that allows you to slow the action of the
blade, aording more control while cutting delicate or hard materials. Variable speed
is no gimmick. Its a worthwhile scrollsaw feature because it allows a wider range of
cutting options.
Also important is a scrollsaws dust blower. This is a small hose, nozzle or pipe that
pus air gently across the cutting line during use, keeping it free of sawdust and easy
to see. Although most machines have a dust blower, theres quite a variation in
designs from make-to-make. Some blower nozzles are easy to adjust and use while
others are not. Check it out in the store.
Choosing the Right Saw for You

When I buy woodworking power tools, I usually order them from one of a handful of
Canadian mail-order suppliers. I find the selections are excellent and prices
very competitive. They all deliver nation-wide. One of the largest is House of Tools
(www.houseoftools.com; 800-661-3987).
Most power tool manufacturers oer a no-questions-asked return policy on their

products, including scrollsaws. Check out the details with your supplier if you think
you might need to use this customer service feature.
Blades Make a Big Dierence

Scrollsaw blade technology has improved a lot during the last 10 years. And to get the
most out of your saw, youll have to learn a bit about what dierent blades can do,
197
and how to recognize quality. Even good scrollsaws rarely come with good blades, so
youll have to get some before you start work. If you dont have a woodworking
specialty outlet near your home, you can still get top-quality scrollsaw blades
delivered to your door by mail. Two reputable Canadian outlets Ive dealt with are
Bear Woods Supply (www.bearwood.com; 800-565-5066) and Stockade Wood and
Craft Supply (www.stockade.ca; 800-463-0920). Both have catalogues and friendly,
helpful sta.
What About Dust?

Even though scrollsaws are small, they can generate more dust than youd want to
land on your kitchen table, especially of youre cutting factory-made sheet materials
like medium density fibreboard (MDF). If youre planning to use your scrollsaw
outside of a regular workroom, consider getting a model that includes a suction port
you can connect to a vacuum cleaner. Not all do.
Most ordinary household vacuum cleaners are sucient to handle the dust generated
by a scrollsaw, though a dedicated workshop vac is better. A few strips of duct tape
will help you make a hose connection between your vacuum and the saws dust port if
the two parts dont mesh together perfectly.
.
Want to Learn More?
Patrick Spielman is a man who has championed the cause of scrollsawing in many
books. One of the best for beginners is Scroll Saw Basics. More advanced titles
include Artistic Scroll Saw Patterns and Projects and Scroll Saw Scandinavian
Patterns and Projects.
Wooden Car Derby Still Encourages Values and Fun

A little bit of wood, a little bit of time and a few portable woodworking machines can
add up to great lifelong lessons for kids. Thats what old-fashioned, wooden derby-
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style racing cars have delivered for years. And as unlikely as it sounds, they still do
the job today. I know because Ive seen it. In fact, few kids activities can create the
same level of sustained focus and anticipation as a traditional wooden car rally.
Earlier this year I helped lead a group of boys and girls building, painting and racing
their colourful rolling creations, and the event proved something reassuring to me.
Even in an era when kids have come to expect dozens of hours of morally-
questionable, non-stop action in front of computer screens and televisions each
week, a hands-on building challenge still oers universal appeal. What else brings
together kids, grown-ups and woodworking as eectively?
The cars we built are a very small

part of what we do at a kids club
called AWANA. Everyone starts
with a car kit that includes a
rectangular block of precut wood
along with four wheels and axles.
Give the wood a snazzy shape, bring
it up to regulation weight, spray on
some paint, then install the wheels.
Our group of grown-up leaders did
the bulk of the woodwork along with two dozen kids during one Saturday morning
session, then brought the children together a couple of weeks later to race their
painted cars on an inclined plywood track. What a great day.
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The biggest part of building wooden race cars is sawing the body to shape. Kids
prepare their own patterns from cereal box cardboard, then trace these onto precut
blocks of wood that come in the kit. Adult leaders then take over, sawing the shapes
on portable bandsaws. These power tools have come a long way in the last five years,
with quality rising steadily and prices dropping. Its not too much to say that
bandsaw quality is a make-or-break feature of any wooden car-building event.
The Ryobi BS1001SV is the newest of the

portable bandsaws on the market, and its
the best Ive used by far. It worked
flawlessly during our building spree as
multiple dads took turns sawing out car
bodies assembly-line style. Although the
built-in vacuum collection system didnt
capture as much of the dust as Id hoped,
the saw is much more solid and eective than its $249 price tag would lead you to
expect. Its a very good value, indeed.
Speed isnt the only thing that wins awards at wooden derby car races. Beauty is part
of it, too, and there are two tricks that make a huge dierence in the appearance of
the cars you help build.
The most important is to sand the wooden bodies lightly with 240-grit sandpaper
after all but the last coat of spray paint. It may take five or six light applications of
paint to make your cars look like theyve just come o the sales lot, so take your time.
200
We found the Krylon line of paints yielded shiniest results. And dont fool yourself.
Appearance is a very big deal with most kids. Its almost as important as winning on
the track.
Consistent weight is crucial when it comes to fair races. Heavier cars roll down the
inclined track faster, and thats why you need some kind of scale on race day. I
brought my digital postal scale, ensuring that all cars were under our regulation
maximum of 150 grams. Light cars could be brought up to snu by taping a penny or
two underneath the body. A small shot of WD-40 on the axles speeds all cars
considerably, boosting the thrill and excitement level of race day.
Thirty years from now one of the kids in our club might be rummaging around in the
basement of their parents house. Theyll open a wilted cardboard box and smile as
they see the old derby car they built all those years ago. And if it reminds them once
again that working towards something you believe in is still a discipline worth
pursuing, then I say that all the work behind race day was more than worthwhile.
Woodworking & Wood Finishing Q&As
Home Workshop Dust Control

Q: What should I use for dust control in a basement woodworking shop Im
creating? Ill be using a tablesaw, router table, bandsaw and sanding equipment.
A: That's a great question because dust control is often overlooked when setting up a
shop. You're wise to address it right up front. Wood dust is a known human
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carcinogen as well as leading to allergies and respiratory problems.
Although many people beginning their woodworking

hobby use a shop vacuum to collect dust, there's another
option that costs less, operates much more quietly and
collects way more dust. For about $250 you can buy a 1
hp dust collector made especially for use in a small
woodshop. That's less than you'd spend on any shop vac
that you'd consider for your needs. Most woodworking
tool manufacturers make small dust collectors. The
model I've used sits on wheels, and thats a good thing. I
suggest you move it from machine to machine for a
while, until you get a feeling for where permanent piping
would be most useful in your set up.
To capture dust from hand-held sanders, consider a sanding table, too. It connects to
your collector and draws dust down through holes in the work surface. An ambient
air filter is also worth considering. It hangs from the ceiling and captures stray dust
that slipped past the dust collector.
Painting Furniture
Q: What should I do to paint furniture used by our kids years ago? I want to freshen
it up, and this seems like an easy thing to do.
A: Painting will probably work, but you need to do a couple of things correctly. Begin
by lightly sanding the entire surface with 220-grit paper. Nothing fancy, just a gentle
treatment to scu up the surface. Next, coat a small patch with 100% acrylic latex
paint and see how it behaves for a while. A week after application, try to rub the
202
paint o with your fingers. If the coating seems strong (and it probably will), go
ahead and paint all the furniture with confidence. This same technique works fine on
wooden wall paneling, too. If you have trouble with paint adhesion during your tests,
youll need to strip the furniture back to bare wood, then paint.
Repairing Loose Wooden Chairs

Q: What's the best way to fix loose joints on my wooden dining room chairs?
A: Dry, wintertime air makes the last few months of the season the worst time for
wiggly wooden chairs. If you're chair pieces come completely apart, then any high
quality wood glue will do a great job. Work some into joint cavities with your finger
or a Q-Tip, reassemble the parts, then bind them tightly with rope for about 24
hours. A more typical problem is loose chair joints that wont easily come apart. For
this situation you can't beat a unique, Canadian product called Chair Doctor. It's
made by Lee Valley Tools (www.leevalley.com; 800-267-8767), looks like milk when it
comes out of the bottle, and is thin enough to easily work its way into tired chair
joints. Orient the joint lines horizontally, so the liquid won't run o, then wiggle the
joint after application to work the product in as deeply as possible. Chair Doctor
both swells the wood and glues it firm. Ive bought and used many bottles over the
years and Im constantly amazed.
Eliminating Old Wood Smell

Q: How can I get rid of the old wood smell inside an antique dresser? I cant store
clothes in the thing without smelling like a museum when I put them on.
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A: Start by placing a box of baking soda in each

drawer. The kind designed for spill-proof use in a
fridge works well. Also, consider a volcanic
deodorizer. I bought mine from Lee Valley Tools
(www.leevalley.com; 800-267-8767) and it works well.
These deodorizers are meant for use in larger spaces,
but it sounds like you need something heavy duty.
Exposing the unit to sunlight or soaking in salt water replenishes the odour reducing
power. Also, many old pieces of furniture were built with totally enclosed back
panels. A 75mm hole bored into the back panel behind each drawer with a hole saw
boosts natural ventilation, dissipating the smell even more.
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Section 18
Product Reviews
50-Year-Old Innovation Helps Cut Grass Fast

I mowed my first lawn in 1975, and hated it. As a kid, the work struck me as loud,
boring and bad for the environment. But Ive developed an appreciation for the look
of fresh-cut grass. Nowadays I like it a lot. The trick is getting that well-groomed
appearance without spending a lot of time at the job. So last summer, in my quest for
a better way to mow, I replaced our conventional lawn tractor with a device first
invented in 1956 by a young and lazy man named Max Swisher. He created the worlds
first zero-turn radius mower, and its not too much to say that the Swisher machine I
own now has revolutionized the way we take care of our lawn. And to tell you the
truth, the machine is actually fun to use. Or at least I hear it is.
Max Swisher didnt like to cut the lawn, and he brought his considerable mechanical
skill to bear on the job of minimizing this work. He invented the worlds first self-
propelled lawn mower in 1945, tying it to a tree in the middle of his yard. It traveled
in ever shrinking circles as the rope wrapped around the tree trunk, cutting the lawn
automatically. Swisher then went on to create the worlds first zero-radius mower.
Current models work significantly faster than conventional lawn tractors for a couple
of reasons, earning it a place in the Popular Mechanics list of 100 top inventions of
the 20th century. The genius behind Swishers concept reminds me of the way a
grocery store shopping cart steers.
The model I chose cuts a 60-inch wide swath, but thats only part of the reason it
covers so much ground in so little time. A honking-big mower deck is worse than
useless if it means you cant work in and around trees and bushes. This is why
maneuverability is key, and its where the zero-radius turning feature shines.
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Unlike regular lawn tractors that

steer as you turn the front wheels,
a zero-turn radius mower doesnt
offer any control of the front
wheels at all. They simply swivel
freely, just as they do on a shopping
cart. You steer by controlling the
relative speed of the rear wheels.
Instead of a steering wheel, you
have two levers up at hand level,
independently controlling the speed and direction of each rear wheel. Push both
levers forward, and the machine moves forward. Push one lever more than the other
and you turn gently. Pull one lever back while you push the other forward and the
machine pivots around a single point as the wheels spin in opposite directions.
Turning on a dime is what zero-turn radius is about, and it makes all the dierence.
Our mower has reduced cutting time by 70% and cut fuel usage in half.
Dozens of other machinery companies have copied Max Swishers zero-turn concept
to the point where its now a generic feature in the industry. But most other makes
are priced high enough that only professionals can aord them. Swishers corporate
philosophy is to deliver good quality at reasonable prices, and after a year of using
their machine, I can say theyve accomplished this, plus something else thats quite
rare these days.
In addition to the fact that our mower cost roughly half as much as other zero-turn
machines, parts are inexpensive and easy to find. The main drive belt, for instance, is
a standard rubber vee-belt available almost everywhere. Nothing fancy. Replacement
blades are generic and inexpensive, too. When I did require a unique replacement
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part last season, it arrived at my door two days after I contacted head oce
(www.swisherinc.com; 800.222.8183).
Some concepts change everything. If youve got more than a little grass to cut, zero-
turn radius equipment makes the job a whole lot shorter, and possibly even more fun.
But to tell you the truth, I wouldnt really know. My teenage son never lets me cut
grass any more.
Canadian Tool Ensures Straight Saw Cuts

If youre planning to build a deck, dock or shed this year, then theres a $15 Canadian
tool you need to know about. Its called the ChopShot, and it guides the travel of
your circular saw so well that cuts almost always turn out remarkably square with no
special skill. And as with most great ideas, the story behind the tool is as interesting
as what the item can do for you.
It all began with a broken-down old bridge over a creek in the eastern Ontario town
of Almonte, and a clever and well-known Canadian tool man whos asked me to
remain anonymous. Many of you would recognize his name. The wooden deck and
beams of this bridge were rotten and crumbling, but the stone abutments -- built by
Scottish masons in the 1800s -- were still in perfect shape. During the course of
rebuilding this bridge for the elderly couple that owned the property, our mystery
man needed to cut some lumber with a circular saw. Thats when the idea struck.
As I was squaring the plank ends using a framing square as a clumsy guide for my
hand-held circular saw, I thought that there had to be a better way. Thats when I
suddenly knew what to do. I went into my workshop and immediately built an all-
wood prototype of the ChopShot. I made a few more for friends before realizing that
anyone who cuts with a hand-held circular saw might like to have one. I had a bunch
made at an Ottawa machine shop and they wound up in the Lee Valley tool catalog.
207
The ChopShot looks like a small

aluminum framing square, except that
one arm is drilled to accept two screws.
These holes are where you fasten a
straight piece of 1x2 softwood to the
tool, about 18 to 20-long before use.
This wood strip hooks over the edge of
the piece of lumber youre cutting, while
the adjoining arm of the ChopShot sits
at 90 across the lumber. This arm is
your saw guide. Run the edge of your circular saw against it and youll get a nice
square cut every time. No measuring or marking necessary. You dont even need a
good eye. One screw hole in the ChopShot is oval so you can tweak the 1x2 so its
perfectly square to the rest of the tool.
Besides guiding the saw to create square cuts, the 1x2 also serves a very handy
secondary role. On your first cut with the ChopShot, make sure you continue
pushing your saw far enough along so it cuts not only the work piece but also the 1x2
guide. This way the end of the 1x2 becomes a marker, showing exactly where your saw
blade will land during use. All you need to do for subsequent cuts is to align the cut
end of the 1x2 on your lumber wherever you want the cut to be. Theres no need to
measure how far the base of your saw extends past the blade or to make a square
mark across the lumber. The tip of the 1x2 always shows where the blade will cut
because the cutting action of the blade is what trimmed the end of the 1x2 in the first
place.
Every so often Im reminded of a fact that I take for granted. As a nation, we

Canadians enjoy more than our fair share of woodworking skill and innovation. In
208
fact, some of the worlds best woodworking tools and techniques are coming from
our country. The ChopShot is a case in point, and a particularly simple, cheap and
elegant one at that.
Adjustable Pliers an Under appreciated Friend

In theory, I suppose its possible to live without tools, but why would you want to? So
many of todays home maintenance and fix-up jobs are a snap to complete with just a
few basics. Thats why youd be foolish not to consider at least a couple of key
implements to stash in your kitchen drawer. And one particular design of adjustable
pliers is my favourite case in point.
Generically called channel-locks after the company that made them popular
beginning back in the 1940s, these pliers have become a mainstay of do-it-yourself
prowess for one simple reason. Adjustable pliers grip a wider range of objects than
any other style of pliers because the jaws move through a large range of possible
opening sizes. This design allows one pair of 12-inch-long pliers to grab everything
from paper-thin objects, right up to items measuring more than 2 inches across. If
you want to get the most value out of just one pair of pliers, this is definitely your
tool.
The key to this wide-ranging versatility is a mechanical system that allows the pivot
point of the pliers to be moved and locked through a range of distances from the top
jaw. Move the pivot point further away, and the jaws open wide. Bring the pivot close
to the top jaw and you can grip thin items. The only problem with some traditional
adjustable plier designs has been a tendency for the adjustment mechanism to slip
under load. Besides being annoying, this flaw can leave you with pinched fingers and
an abruptly bad mood. The good news is that this is quickly becoming a thing of the
past, thanks to a relatively new industrial process abbreviated as MIM.
209
The letters stand for metal injection molding, a process that allows all the
intricacies and low cost of plastic injection molding to be applied to very precise,
very strong and intricate metal parts. Youll find the MIM process behind
advancements in everything from hand tools to cell phones.
At the moment, my favourite style of adjustable pliers is made by Irwin using an

intricate MIM part at the critical pivot point. Saw-tooth serrations around the
centre of this pivot allow the jaws to be positively
locked in one of fifteen dierent positions. And if
that wasnt enough, the pivot mechanism is spring-
loaded, making it absolutely impossible for the pliers
to slip open unexpectedly wider during use. Youve
got to press the silver button to make any kind of
adjustment happen. Its a pretty impressive system.
Most MIM parts begin with a mold made out of

metal, just as plastic parts do. But instead of the
mold being injected with liquid polymers that cure
and harden, the MIM process uses extremely finely
powdered metal mixed with synthetic binders to
form a liquid that gets squirted into the mold. And
when I say fine, I mean it. In some cases it takes 30 metals particles to make up the
diameter of one human hair. Through a process involving heat and solvents, the
binder is removed while the tiny metal particles are fused into a single unit with
more heat, creating a finished part. Sometimes MIM parts are ready to use out of the
mold, and other times they need to be refined a bit more and coated before use.
The bottom line in all this is simple. Tools are getting better and better, and some
pretty neat technical advancements are working quietly behind the scenes to make it
210
all happen. Thats just one of the reasons why its never been a better time to have a
great home and take care of it properly.
Finger-Scan Lock Reduces Entry Hassles

Ive seen too many home break-ins to have much faith in locks anymore. I used to
trust them, like most people still do, until I saw the havoc that an average shoulder
can so easily wreak. Most locks themselves are plenty strong, but a couple of good
hits and the wooden door jambs found in most homes simply blow out in
smithereens, leaving free access for bad guys, and a nasty trim repair to complete.
Steel doors and frames are dierent, of course, but whose house has those?
Setting the issue of false security aside for a moment, youd have a lot of explaining to
oer police and insurance adjusters after a break-in if you simply left doors unlocked
all the time, allowing thieves to walk away with your stu, shoulders unbruised. No,
we homeowners are expected to suer at least a token amount of damage to prove
we did our part to keep bad guys at bay, so we continue to use locks, despite the
futility and the daily fuss of fumbling for keys, leaving them under door mats for
friends and family, or memorizing security codes. If were all
forced into a daily activity thats both pointless and
necessary, it might as well be as easy as possible, right? Thats
why the new Weiser SmartScan system caught my eye.
Its the first consumer-grade lockset Ive seen that eliminates
the need for keys and codes. I suspect well see much more
like it in the future. All you need to open a SmartScan is the
swipe of a registered fingertip.
The use of personal physical features for identification and entry is generically called
biometrics, and its not new. Biometrics have been used in high-level government and
military security systems for years. But at $200 for a SmartScan lockset, it opens the
211
way for ordinary homeowners to benefit from the technology in a form that looks
much like an ordinary deadbolt lock. It even installs the same way as regular lock
hardware, too.
The SmartScan incorporates a small, weatherproof

shroud that extends below the bottom side of the
lock body. This shroud houses an optical reader that
registers and recognizes individual fingerprints for
entry access. If the system knows you, a finger swipe
retracts the deadbolt (usually). If it doesnt, nothing
happens. It all sounds like a great idea, and it
certainly looks cool, too. But how does it actually
work in the real world? Thats what I set out to
discover with a SmartScan mounted on a simulated
door panel in my kitchen, in a world full of kids and
hustle and dirty fingers.
You need to start by registering fingerprints to be

recognized by the lock, and for this you pop o a cover on the inside face of the
door. A touchpad just below the four AA system batteries (theyre supposed to last a
whole year) takes you through various phases of registration. Three swipes of a finger
are required for the job. I found the system a little picky sometimes, even when
tweaked to the most casual level of sensitivity. Expect to invest several attempts at
registration before the system approves. I definitely found it necessary to help the
little people in our house swipe fingers properly for registration and use. The
instruction manual oers the rather gruesome but prudent suggestion that you
register two fingers for each person, just in case one digit gets inadvertently removed
and you need to get inside in a hurry.
212
My first few attempts at actually opening the lock with my registered (and still
attached) fingers proved hit-and-miss until I realized something important. You need
to wake the system up with a touch of your finger first, before swiping. Wake-up
triggers a light on top of the lock body and takes just half a second. My older kids got
pretty good at waking and swiping and opening the lock, but I doubt anyone under
five or six years old could operate the SmartScan reliably without help. At least not as
the technology exists now, anyway. Consumer level biometrics will no-doubt get
easier to use as time goes on. Remember how finicky grocery store barcode readers
were when they first came out? Now theyre virtually glitch proof, recognizing just
about everything that whizzes past. The lock also comes with a set of keys, just in
case something bad happens to the lock or your two registered fingers.
One nice thing about the SmartScan is that its smart. You can register individual
fingerprints for access all the time, or only during specific periods of the day. The fit
and finish of the unit is terrific, too. Now if only we could do something about all
those wooden door jambs, bad guys everywhere would have much bigger shoulder
bruises.
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A Comprehensive Guide To Home Improvement

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A Comprehensive Guide To Home Improvement

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A STEVE MAXWELL BEST PRACTICES GUIDE UPDATED 10/20/2009

Clear and Simple . . .

A selection from twenty years of illustrated

by Steve Maxwe! 2009

Section 2! Kitchens & Bathrooms ................................................4

Section 3! Decks, Patios & Landscaping......................................13

Section 4! Basements, Foundations & Landscaping...................27

Section 5! Floors, Trim & Interior Finishes.................................39

Section 6! Heating, Air Conditioning & Ventilation..................57

Section 7! Plumbing & Electrical..................................................67

Section 8! Indoor Air Quality........................................................77

Section 9! Energy Eciency & Technologies..............................84

Section 10! Roofs, Attics & Exterior Walls..................................108

Section 12! New Construction......................................................133

Section 13! Sound Control.............................................................147

Section 14! General Home Improvement....................................155

Section 16! Tools............................................................................173

Section 18! Product Reviews.........................................................205

Thanks again for purchasing my publication,

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Perhaps the most challenging part of the concrete countertop equation is

Another concrete colouring option involves chemical treatments applied to the

Drains easy to install with simple information

ABS was the acronym for the worlds

Ceramic Tile Shower

Perhaps the best part of the Schluter kit

Kitchen & Bathroom Q&As

Bathroom Mold Control

Fixing a Leaky Shower Stall

A: It sounds to me like you need to

Verandah Adds Traditional Charm

Grid Paving Systems Growing in Canada

Ive examined two variations on the GroundSolutions theme: GS Pro and GS

A softer variation of the product -- called

Synthetic Lumber Low-Down

real wood for a while. The scenario

years homeowner grows weary of

are several reasons to take a closer look.

When you run a cost-per-year analysis, synthetics oer economical performance,

At the moment there are three

market. The most popular two

Due in part to concerns about wood/plastic composites developing superficial mold

Solid composites, on the other hand,

grain. This isnt going to fool anyone, but

around this trouble.

The most attractive option is to use some

market and most cost more than seems

Fastening Edges Invisibly

Extra Insights: Composites vs. Real Wood -- A Quick Comparison

will rot before deck boards do.

Composites: fair to good appearance; not as attractive as well-finished wood when

Extra Insights: Is it Really Maintenance Free?

experience. A small portion of composites have been known to develop superficial

Decks, Patios & Landscaping Q&As

Gazebo Flooring Options

recommend an easy-going option.Two come to mind: bare wood or a solid

Staining Wooden Decks

Crumbling Concrete Repair

Concrete Floor Slabs That Last

When it comes to firming up backfilled

Call in the Reinforcements

Would you pay an extra $10 a yard for

Leveling and Finishing