Rithmomachy Game Pieces.

These game pieces are sized to play in the 1 inch squares of the pdf Rithmomachy game. I recommend printing
out two copies on cardstock then using spray adhesive to attach them to a sheet of balsa wood (or other thin
laminate that will be easy to cut with an x-acto knife, or just a couple additional sheets of cardstock). The black
pieces on one side, the white on the other.

The Black Pieces

3 5 7 9 9 25 49 81

12 30 56 90 16 36 64 100

P
28 66 120 190 49 121 225 361
The White Pieces

2 4 6 8 4 16 36 64

6 20 42 72 9 25 49 81

P
15 45 91 153 25 81 169 289
 Sailors Solitaire

Researched by
Lady Cigan Oszinte

Sailors Solitaire is played on a Fox and Geese board, which is originally a Scandinavian Tafl game that dates back to
the 14th century. Sailors Solitaire is documented in the 16th century, but may have been played before then.
HOW TO PLAY: This is a game for a single player. It uses 32 pieces, filling every space except the center. Jump one
piece over another, moving horizontally or vertically, not diagonally, removing the jumped piece. The object is to
remove all except one piece from the board, preferably leaving that single piece in the center space.
One of the best things I came across was this suggestion from Guillaume de Pyrenees for making easy Chess
Pieces. Fonts from http://www.enpassant.dk/chess/fonteng.htm#ALFONSO, use flat washers/steel disks at 3/4
of an inch in exterior diameter. Print and cut these out and glue them to the disks, then use clear acrylic to seal
them to protect them. Apply the paint in a thin layer. Wait to dry and apply again if needed. You can paint the
washers before applying the images. I have made them at 3/4 inch size so that they can be played on the one
inch squares for the PDF games. I have also listed the modern name we think of for the pieces in quotation
marks only to help make it easier to understand where to place the piece on the board.

Pieces for Common Chess/ Byzantine Chess/Chaturanga Version 2

King/Raja Fer /Queen/Councellor Fil /Bishop/Elephant

Knight/Horse Rook/ Castle/Chariot

Pawns

Additional Pieces Need for Great Chess

Aanca/ Griffion Fer /Lion

Giraffe

Rhinoceros/ Unicorn Crocodile

One of the best things I came across was this suggestion from Guillaume de Pyrenees for making easy Chess
Pieces. Fonts from http://www.enpassant.dk/chess/fonteng.htm#ALFONSO, use flat washers/steel disks at 3/4
of an inch in exterior diameter. Print and cut these out and glue them to the disks, then use clear acrylic to seal
them to protect them. Apply the paint in a thin layer. Wait to dry and apply again if needed. You can paint the
washers before applying the images. I have made them at 3/4 inch size so that they can be played on the one
inch squares for the PDF games.

Pieces for Four Seasons Chess/ Chaturanga

King/Raja Fil /Bishop/Elephant

Knight/Horse Rook/ Castle/Chariot

Pawns
 Five in a Row

Calculi, or Five in a Row is a Roman game played on the same board as Latrunculi Each player has 33 pieces, in opposite colors.
E

The traditional rules of Calculi, or "Five in a Row," are as follows:

1. Black plays first.
2. First person to line up five stones in a row orthogonally (straight across or straight up and down) or diagonally wins.
3. It is illegal to make a "double open-ended three" unless one is forced to do so.
4. If the board becomes filled, the game is a draw.
A double open-ended three, or three in a row simultaneously in two directions, is banned because it is too easy to win, and occurs frequently. This
rule makes for a much more interesting game, and leads to the strategy in which one tries to make a double "three and a four," which is like a double
open-ended three, except that one line is made of four in a row.

As rsearched by Wally J. Kowalski from Able One Education Network

 Halatafl Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

Halatafl is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas, and the name means Heel Board, as the game is originally a board filled with holes, and the bottom of the
pegs had a slot called the heel. The board is a 7x7 and each player has 22 gaming pieces, one players pieces in white, the other red. The 5 squares are
left empty at the beginning of the game. The red pieces are put on the darkly outlined circles, the white on the lightly outlined circles.

HOW TO PLAY: White moves first, into the empty square in the center of the board. Pieces move forward a single space to the side, to the front, or
diagonally, but not backwards in any way when not jumping. Captures are made by jumping over an opponents piece to the empty space beyond it--
and can be done in any direction. Multiple captures are allowed. A player can even jump over their own pieces-- the opponents pieces will be removed
from the board while the jumping players pieces will remain on the board. Corners can be filled in the process of multiple captures, but the game piece
must be removed from the corner by the end of the next turn at the latest.

The game is over when one player is reduced to 5 pieces.

 Draughts Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

Draughts, also called Checkers, probably came about when Alquerque was played on a checkered board. It is commonly mentioned after 1500. It is a
game for two players across from each other.

Each player has 12 pieces, which the set up on the dark squares closest to them. The white squares are not used.

How to play: Black moves first. The pieces only move diagonally forward, with the players taking turns. Once a piece reaches the opposite side, it is
crowned and can now move back and forth across the board. Captures are made by jumping an opponents piece to the open space beyond them and
removing the jumped piece from the board. Multiple captures are allowed, and capturing is required. If a player fails to make a capture, even if the same
piece was used to make multiple captures, when they have the opportunity, and the opposing player notices, they can huff the piece, removing it from
the board, before continuing with their own moves.
 ROTA

Rota, means Wheel and is the Roman equivalent of Tic-Tac-Toe, though the name they called it has been
lost. Like most medieval games, the rules have been reconstructed based on similar games.
Rules of play, as researched by Guillaume de Pyrenees (mka Sam Wallace) in his Synopsis of Morris Games
class.
Each player gets 3 game pieces.
Players take turns putting their game pieces on any line in the circle including the middle.
Once they've put all 3 pieces on the board, they can move their pieces from line to line, but only to one
that's next to the line that they're on.
The player who gets three in a row first wins.
The players will need to decide before hand if three in a row around the edge of the circle counts or if the
three in the row must cross through the center.
 The Game of Brigands

Ludus Latrunculorum, Latrunculi, or The game of Brigands: Popular with Roman soldiers and first mentioned around 27
BC in Varros De Lingua Latina. Each player has 16 pieces and a Dux/King (special counter). The players take turns placing 2
men at a time on the squares of the board. The Dux is placed last. After all the pieces have been placed, the second player
goes first, moving any piece one square forward, backward or sideways (not diagonally). If an enemy piece is sandwiched
between two opposing pieces, it is captured and removed from the board. The moving piece can continue with another
move after a capture. Corner pieces can be captured by being surrounded on either side. A piece that moves between 2
enemy pieces is safe. If an opponent cannot move, then a player must move again. The Dux can also jump over any single
piece. If this ends up in a sandwich, the sandwiched piece is captured. The Dux can be captured. The player with the most
men left at the end wins. As researched by Helen Morris in International Perspectives Universal Games from A to Z.
 Nine Mens Morris Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

The Game of Merels (also spelt Merreles), or Nine Mens Morris is a simple board game for two players. It was popular in the 14th century, but earlier
versions with fewer than nine pieces have been found dating back to 1400 B.C.

HOW TO PLAY: Nine Man Morris, or Merels is played on a board by two players who take turns. The players start with nine different colored tokens
each. As with other medieval games, many different rules have evolved over the years. Players are advised to agree on the rules by which they will
play before starting. To start the game, the players place their tokens on any of the available spaces on the board. When all tokens are placed, the
game enters the second part. Players now move their tokens. A token can be moved from one circle to another along the lines. Tokens can never be
placed or moved to a slot that is already occupied. Each player attempts to form a mill (three tokens in a row),. Whenever a player succeeds in making
a mill, they may capture (or pound) an opponent's piece that doesn't belong to a mill. . If all of the opponent's tokens are inside some mill then an
exception is made and the player can take any token. In the opening, it's possible to form two mills by placing a single token. The player still gets to
take only one of the opponent's tokens. Once captured, pieces cannot be brought back into play. Players must move if they can (even if it would be to
their disadvantage). A player who cannot move loses the game.

Rules vary as to how mills may be broken and re-formed. Most allow a piece to move out of a mill, then move back the following go. This provides a
clear advantage to the first player who can make a mill. A variation is to require that a minimum number of other moves (not necessarily with the
same piece) must be played before a piece may be moved back into the same mill. This could be one, two or three moves. No such restriction applies
if a mill is being formed along a different line, or using different pieces.

In one common variation, once a player is reduced to three pieces, his pieces may "fly", "hop" or "jump" to any empty intersections, not only adjacent
ones. Once a player has been reduced to two pieces, they are unable to capture any more of their opponent's pieces, and therefore that player loses
the game. The game is won by bringing the opponent to a position where they cannot move, or by reducing them to only two tokens.
 Fox and Geese

Researched by
Lady Cigan Oszinte

Fox and Geese is originally a Scandinavian Tafl game which dates back to the 14th century, involving battles fought out by two forces of unequal
power. One player is the fox and tries to eat the geese/sheep, and the other player directs the geese/sheep and attempts to trap the fox, or reach a
destination on the board.
HOW TO PLAY: One player elects to be the fox and the other the geese. The geese (the thirteen counters of one
color) should be placed so as to fill up all the points on one side of the board, as shown in the diagram. The fox (the
one counter of the other color) starts in the middle of the board. As with other medieval games, many different
rules have evolved over the years. Players are advised to agree on the rules by which they will play before starting.
The fox moves first. On their turn, each side may move one counter. Both fox and geese can move along a line,
forwards, backwards, or sideways, to the next contiguous point.

The fox may move along a line or jump over a goose to an empty point, capturing the goose and removing it from
the board. Two or more geese may be captured by the fox in one turn, providing that he is able to jump to an empty
point after each one. Captured pieces are never replayed onto the board and remain captured for the remainder of
the game. The fox wins if it captures enough geese that the remaining geese cannot surround it anymore. The
geese cannot jump over the fox or capture the fox. They must try to mob him and hem him into a corner making it
impossible for him to move. The geese win if they surround the fox so that it cannot move.

Like all unequal games, it makes sense to play an even number of games, each player alternating between playing
the fox and playing the geese. The player who wins the most games wins the match.
 13 12
14 11
15 10
16
39 38 37
40 36

9
41 35
17

58 57 56

8
55

34
42
18

St
go ba aze

59 Yo art ov
M

u d er
ck to

54
ied
30

33
43
19
Lose 2 turns

first roll
roll 4 & 5

53
on the
Go here
60

if you

7
Inn

Lose 1 turn
Prison

32

Bridge
20

6 go to 12
44

52
61

rn
Well
Lose 1 tu
31
45

62
21

63

51
46

30
47 50
22

5
48 49
23
29
24
4
25
Go here if you
roll 6 & 3 on the 28
26
first roll
27
THE GAME
OF THE GOOSE 3
researched by Modar Neznanich
2
1
The game is an easy game to learn, yet is immensely fun for all ages. Certain special-marked spaces add either a bonus or a penalty to a player's move. Any
number of players can play. Each player needs a uniquely marked, colored or shaped playing piece. Each player places their single playing piece on the
starting area. Play is commenced by each player, in turn, advancing his piece by the throw of two 6-sided dice to space number 63, where it was borne off.
The first player borne off, wins. To bear (or be borne) off, the playing piece has to land on 63 exactly. If the number thrown is higher than necessary, the
surplus is counted backwards from the number 63 space. (If the backward move happens to land the piece on a special-marked point that "advanced"
movement, the piece continues moving on backwards, instead. At the player's next turn, he could resume his forward movement.)
Most of the special-marked points have a goose on them, hence the name of the game. Landing on a goose allows the player to move his piece the same
amount of the roll again, and continue doing such until he no longer landed on a goose. (i.e. If you rolled a 6 and by moving 6 spaces, you landed on a goose,
you move 6 more spaces.) Because there is a goose on every multiple of nine, a throw of nine on the first roll would allow a player to advance immediately to
space 63 and win, a special rule was made. If a nine is rolled on the first throw, the player advances his piece to space 26 if the numbers on the dice were 6 &
3. If the numbers on the dice were 4 & 5, the piece advanced to space number 53. From these spaces, the player would continue the game.
There are no captures in the game. Pieces may pass other pieces. If a piece finishes its move on a space already the occupied by a second piece, the second
piece is moved back to the space the first piece began its turn on. (i.e. If a player who has a piece on space 20, rolls a 4 he moves his piece to space 24. If
space 24 has an opponent's piece on it, the opponents piece is moved back to space 20, and the player's piece remains on space 24.)
 Nyout Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

W E

S
Nyout originated in Korea, probably around 1100 B.C. It is a game for 2-4 players and is based on horse racing.
Each player uses four pieces (Mal) which represent four horses. The players take turns tossing a dice (Pam-
Ny-out) and move counterclock wise, starting at the Chut--the small circle to the left of the top large circle
(North). The object of the game is to enter all of your pieces on the board, move them around the board, and
bear them off. The first player to do so wins. It is typically played with 4 throwing sticks, each with a light and
dark side-- where the light sides show the # of spaces a player moves (from 1-4). If all 4 are dark sides, the
player moves 5. But the game can also be played with a single dice. A throw of 4 or 5 allows another throw.
Landing on West, South, or East, allows a player to make a short cut directly across the board (no turning in
the middle), but is not required. If an opposing player lands on the same spot-- the piece is considered
kicked and must start the game again. The kicking player gets another turn. If a player has a piece land on
the same spot, then the pieces can be joined and move together as a single horse, but only 2 horses can be
paired together. An exact throw is NOT required to bear a piece off the board, though the additional spaces
are lost.
Variations: If a throw of 4 or 5 is made, instead of moving a horse, the player rolls their second roll and adds
the casts together, dividing them anyway desired among any or all of their horses. Each player sits at a cardi-
nal point and has their own Chut that is the first small circle to the left opposite of the one they are sitting by.
 Shut the Box

1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
The exact history of Shut-the-Box is unknown. Many game historians claim that it dates back to around the
12th century, originating in northern France. It is said that it was a very popular game among sailors who loved
gambling on it. The name refers to the traditional board the game was played on: a wooden box with shutters
which flip to cover (or reveal) the numbers.
Object of the game: Get the lowest score by covering up the most numbers.
Setting up: Each player takes his/her turn rolling the two dice and using the nine markers to cover up the
various numbers on the board.
Playing: The first player starts by rolling the two dice and then placing markers on any of the numbers on the
board which add up to the total of the dice. For example, if a player rolls a 3 and a 5 for a total of 8, he may
choose to cover the 1,2 and 5, or the 1,3, and 4, or the 1 and 7, or the 2 and 6, or the 3 and 5, or the 8. Once a
number is covered by a marker, it must remain covered. Each players turn ends when the total of the dice
cannot be reached by the remaining uncovered numbers.
Winning: At the end of the turn, each player adds up the uncovered numbers for his score. The player with the
lowest score wins.
Variations: There are too many varitions to list, but the more common ones include: As with most medieval
games, the specific variation played should be agreed upon before beginning the game.

* allowing only the face value of the dice or their total to be covered: ie. if a 3 and a 6 are rolled, only a 3 and 6
or a 9 may be covered.
*after the 7, 8 and 9 are covered, the player is allowed to roll only one die
*upon throwing doubles, the player gets another turn
Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte
 ALQUERQUE Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

Alquerque, or Quirkat, was played in Egypt more than 3000 years ago and it was brought to Europe in the 8th century by Moor warriors. As with other
medieval games, many different rules have evolved over the years. Players are advised to agree on the rules by which they will play before starting. Both
players start with 12 pieces, placing those pieces in the two rows closest to them and in the two rightmost spaces in the center row. The game is played in
turns, with each player playing a different color.

Rules: A piece can move from its point to any adjacent point as long as that point is empty. A piece can jump over an opposing piece and remove it from
the game, if that opposing piece is adjacent and the point beyond it is empty. Multiple capturing jumps are permitted. The player can jump over opponent's
pieces only, not over his/her own ones.
Finishing: The game is won by taking all the opponent's pieces or by the player who has more pieces when it becomes apparent that no more pieces will
be taken. Alternatively, a player can win when the other player is unable to move. A draw occurs by agreement at any point during the game. If it becomes
apparent that no more pieces will be taken and both players have the same number of pieces left, a draw is agreed. Draws are very common.
Variations: If the player has the opportunity to capture one or more of the opponent's pieces, then the player must do so. If a piece takes an opponent's
piece and the new position allows it to take another piece, then it must do so straight away. If a player notices that the opponent failed to capture when the
option was open, that player can "huff" the offending piece before the next move is made, and it is removed from the board. If more than one piece can
capture, then the player is entirely free to choose which of those pieces to move. Likewise, if a capturing piece is able to capture in more than one direction,
the player is free to choose which direction to move in. i.e. it is not compulsory to move the piece or take the route that will result in the maximum number of
captures. A piece cannot move backwards, only sideways, forwards or diagonally forwards. A piece that has reached the final row may only move by
capturing sideways. No piece may return to a point that is has occupied previously.
 Ashtapada Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

The game was played in India in the 5th century BC. The Vinayapitaka, a sacred Buddhist text from 4th or 3rd c. BC. introducing
the Dialogues of the Buddha, enumerates a list of activities from which the converted man should keep remote. Among this list are
games and among them are Ashtapada, which means 8x8 gaming board. Meant for 2-4 players, each with 4 pieces.

It is a race type game, suspected to follow the pattern on the right, though the actual rules of play
have been lost to antiquity. The specially marked squares are safety squares and a piece cannot be
captured and returned to the start if on them.

Each player starts in the center safety squares ,facing a different direction of play, then rolls a die
and moves the number of spaces accordingly. If two players land on the same space (except for
the specially marked squares), the first one there is sent back to their starting square. The winner
is the first person to complete the circuit with all four of their pieces.
 Five Field Kono Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

Five Field Kono, like many Korean games is based on Armies at War and involves capturing or surrounding the opponent during battle.
It may have been played as far back as the Sung Dynasty of China in AD 917- 975. As in Chinese checkers, a player wins by moving all of
their pieces into the starting locations of their opponent's pieces. Since a player can prevent their opponent from winning by keeping a
piece in its starting location, the game ends in a draw with perfect play.

Each player begins with 7 pieces of different colors, across the back row closest to them, and the next intersection up on the outside edges.

Rules: The players take turns moving one of their pieces one square diagonally. The first player to move all of their pieces to their
opponent's starting squares wins. No taking or jumping is allowed.
 Mehen
Researched by
Lady Cigan Oszinte

Mehen probably dating from before 2700 BC.

Mehen is essentially a race game, but one with some interesting twists that make it quite interesting. Two or more players, each one with one to six
marbles (numbers of players and marbles can be selected before starting the game), race down the spiral to the center -- symbolizing Re, the Sun
God -- and back again by throwing a single dice.

The first twist is that you don't move immediately after throwing the dice, instead you accumulate the results until you throw a 2, and then move your
pieces according to the results. This gives the game some tactical depth as you often have more than one choice how to move your marbles. When you
move onto a field that is occupied by another player's marble, this one is bumped to the bumping marble's old position. Another twist is that 1 counts
as a special throw, a so-called Shinyat (meaning magic spell) that you keep track of, not use in play. Shinyat must be used for entering the board at the
beginning of the game, for entering the central square and for leaving it again. An exact throw is needed to enter the center if no Shinyat are stored.

When you have gotten one marble back to the start, you must throw two throws of 1 before you can enter your lion. When a lion reaches the
center, you must throw or have stored four throws of 1 to release him. The lion devours any of your opponents marbles he meets on the
way back. As soon as the lion has entered and left the central case, any marble he passes is devoured by him. The game ends when the lion has left the
board, and the number of marbles each player could safely bring home determines the ranking.
 NIM
Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

The game is said to have originated in China (it closely resembles the Chinese game of "Jianshizi", or "picking stones"),
but the origin is uncertain; the earliest European references to Nim are from the beginning of the 15th century by
Luca Pacioli, an Italian mathematician. NIM means "take."

The game of Nim is played with several rows of markers. In classic Nim there are 16 markers arranged in 4 rows. Two
players take turns removing 1, 2, or 3 marbles all from the same row. The player who removes the last marker loses.
 Seega Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

The ancient game of Seega has been played for centuries throughout Egypt and other parts of the Middle East. It is a simple game in terms of materials
and rules, but it involves plenty of strategy and thinking once you are playing. In Egypt, 5x5 game boards were common. Each player has 12 pieces.

To start, the first player lays down two of his or her pieces in the squares marked "X." The other player lays down two pieces in the squares marked "O."
Next, the players take turns, laying down two pieces at a time in any square but the center square. No captures are made during this deployment phase.
These turns are taken until all the pieces are laid down. The center square is left open. Pieces may be moved only to adjacent open squares, but diagonal
moves are not allowed. A piece is taken (removed from the board) when it is "sandwiched" by two of the opponent's pieces. Sandwiching diagonally
does not count.

"Pieces are only taken when the opponent makes a move that sandwiches the piece. For example, if you move your piece in between two of your
opponent's pieces your piece is safe. If in the original layout of the board, one of your pieces is between two of your opponent's pieces, your piece is
safe. If a player is completely blocked in so that he or she cannot make any moves, then the blocked-in player is allowed to remove any one of the
opponent's pieces to clear a path. This situation usually arises only within the first few moves of the game.

A second move in a single turn is allowed if the first move yielded a "take" and an additional move of the same piece will yield another "take." If a whole
series of such moves are possible, then several moves in the same turn are allowed.
 Twelve Mens Morris Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

Twelve Mens Morris is a simple board game for two players. It was popular in the 14th century, but earlier versions with fewer than nine pieces have
been found dating back to 1400 B.C.

HOW TO PLAY: Twelve Man Morris is played on a board by two players who take turns. The players start with twelve tokens each in opposite colors. As
with other medieval games, many different rules have evolved over the years. Players are advised to agree on the rules by which they will play before
starting. To start the game, the players place their tokens on any of the available spaces on the board. When all tokens are placed, the game enters
the second part. Players now move their tokens. A token can be moved from one circle to another along the lines. Tokens can never be placed or
moved to a slot that is already occupied. Each player attempts to form a mill (three tokens in a row),. Whenever a player succeeds in making a mill,
they may capture (or pound) an opponent's piece that doesn't belong to a mill. . If all of the opponent's tokens are inside some mill then an exception
is made and the player can take any token. In the opening, it's possible to form two mills by placing a single token. The player still gets to take only
one of the opponent's tokens. Once captured, pieces cannot be brought back into play. Players must move if they can (even if it would be to their
disadvantage). A player who cannot move loses the game.

Rules vary as to how mills may be broken and re-formed. Most allow a piece to move out of a mill, then move back the following go. This provides a
clear advantage to the first player who can make a mill. A variation is to require that a minimum number of other moves (not necessarily with the
same piece) must be played before a piece may be moved back into the same mill. This could be one, two or three moves. No such restriction applies
if a mill is being formed along a different line, or using different pieces.

In one common variation, once a player is reduced to three pieces, his pieces may "fly", "hop" or "jump" to any empty intersections, not only adjacent
ones. Once a player has been reduced to two pieces, they are unable to capture any more of their opponent's pieces, and therefore that player loses
the game. The game is won by bringing the opponent to a position where they cannot move, or by reducing them to only two tokens.
 Three Mens Morris Researched by Lady Cigan Oszinte

Three Mens Morris is a simple board game for two players. It is probably the direct ancestory of Nine Mens Morris, as well as Tic-Tac-Toe, dating back
to 1400 B.C.

HOW TO PLAY: Three Man Morris is played on a board by two players who take turns. The players start with four tokens each and take turns placing
their pieces then moving them. The goal is to form a straight or diagonal line of three. In the simpler version of the game, diagonal moves are illegal.
In the more complex version, they are allowed. Players should agree, before play, as to which version they will be playing.
References for PDF board games:

Alphonso X of Spain Book of Games

R. C. Bell Board and Table Games from Many Civilizations
Dagonell the Juggler (David P. Salley)
http://www-cs.canisius.edu/~salley/SCA/Games
Royal Game of the Goose: Rules of Play 1999 Kadon Enterprises, Inc.
Game of Goose Shire of Hartshorn-dale
Guillaume de Pyrenees (mka Sam Wallace)
http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/
http://www.waks.org/game-hist/
http://www.tradgames.org.uk/index.html
http://jeuxdumonde.free.fr/
http://mitglied.multimania.de/SeyJoy/#Board%20Games
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/A_list_of_Ancient_board_games_that_are_still_played_today
http://www.schachquellen.de/14996.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaturanga
http://nabataea.net/games3.html
http://www.kingtutshop.com/freeinfo/SenetGame.htm
http://www.gamecabinet.com/history/Senet.html
http://www.mastersgames.com/
http://library.thinkquest.org/5356/senet.html
http://www.dpedtech.com/Senet_Game_Text_preview.pdf
http://www.knauer.org/mike/sca/classes/
http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/
http://www.chessvariants.com/historic.dir/acedrex.html
http://www.squidoo.com/rota-roman-game
http://ablemedia.com/ctcweb/showcase/boardgames.html
http://www.leikmot.net/englisch/eHalatafl.html
http://www.enpassant.dk/chess/fonteng.htm#ALFONSO
http://www.gamecabinet.com/rules/Rithmomachia.html
http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/R/Rithmomachia.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rithmomachy
http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/mebben.ryth.html
http://www.chessvariants.com/historic.dir/chaturanga.html
http://www.modaruniversity.org/Games.htm
http://sites.asiasociety.org/arts/asiangames/chance07.html
http://www.mimenta.com/Mimenta_Art/VisualArts/Visual%20Art08.html
http://www.godecookery.com/clipart/clart.htm
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1983.515.1-52
http://www.wopc.co.uk/italy/italia.html
http://www.wopc.co.uk/history/page_6.html
http://www.larsdatter.com/games-board.htm
http://bibliodyssey.blogspot.com/2008/11/board-games.html
http://www.ravensgard.org/prdunham/ngames.html
http://www.goddesschess.com/chessays/contadini1d.html
http://www.historicgames.com/RPcards.html
http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/game-rules.html
http://www.gothicgreenoak.co.uk/dice.html
http://www.modaruniversity.org/Games.htm
http://sca-librarians.gallowglass.org/links/games.html
http://www.isenfir.org/rmi/home.php
http://www.knauer.org/mike/sca/classes/poch.html
http://www.pagat.com/stops/poch.html
http://www.gypsyware.com/pokerHistory.html