US Apparel & Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd.

26 M Gulberg iii Lhr.

Orientation Report

Submitted to: Sir Ali Qamar

Submitted by: Hassan Shahzad

Management Trainee (VMD)

Date of submission: 21st July 2014

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Sr. No. TITLES Pg. no.

Introduction 4
1.
Denim (History) 5
2.
Jeans Construction 6
3.
Garment Process Flow 8
4.
Vendor Marketing Department 10
5.
Research and Development Department 10
6.
Material Management Control and Store 11
7.
Fabric Commercial and Store 14
8.
Product Planning and Control 15
9.
Fabric Inspection Department 16
10.
Product Development Department / Sampling 18
11.
Cutting Department / GGT / WIP 19
12.
Stitching Department 22
13.
Garment Dry & Wet Process Department 27
14.
Printing, Finishing and Dispatch 31
15.
Industrial Engineering Department 37
16.
Quality Control Department 38
17.
Import and Export Department / Finance Department 39
18.
Conclusion and Suggestions 41
19.
Bibliography 42
20.

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

In the name of Allah, the most merciful and beneficent

Its an utmost pleasure to be able to express the heartiest gratitude and deep sense of devotion to
respected and worthy persons Mr. Ali Qamar & Mr. Shahzada Munawar for their skillful
guidance, unfailing patience, inspiring attitude and invaluable suggestions.

I would also like to thank all the HOD for giving us opportunity to learn in the practical
environment and their guidance throughout our orientation period. We also appreciate the cordial
co-operation from all concern Managers and supervisor in the departments.

Note: I am responsible for errors and mistakes presented in this report, a positive and
constructive criticism will always be greeted warmth.

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INTRODUCTION:

Established in 1974, US. Apparel has achieved its goal of becoming a truly vertically integrated
manufacturing facility. US Apparel & Textiles (Pvt.) Ltd. is the foremost garments
manufacturing company of Pakistan with no. of factories and more than 30 years of experience
behind its back. We are fully capacitated to handle any volume orders. Weaving, Cutting,
Stitching, Embroidery, Washing /Special effects and Packing are all dealt with in house.
For many years major US, European and UK retail stores and mail order companies in Europe
have counted on our quality, making US Apparel & Textiles a fully vertical and specialized
textile company.
Clintele

MISSION STATEMENT:

Our Corporate mission is to be recognized as leading provider of the top quality garments for
retail businesses globally. Our major focuses are to server each customers specific needs and
provide total solution & satisfaction; this vigorous customer support strategy has enabled us to
grow & expand our businesses globally and we are present in UK & Germany also with our
own offices. At U.S Apparel, we are committed towards conducting our business in fair,
honest and responsible manner in accordance to the highest standards of business ethics.

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Denim (History)
The word jeans comes from the French phrase bleu de Genes meaning the blue of
Genoa. The denim fabric originated in the French town of Nimes and owes its name to the
location, which was quickly known as denim abroad.

Navy sailors first strutted around in denim back in the 1500s but it wasnt until the 1870s in the
gold rush boom that denim took off. This was when Levi Strauss a name now identical with
denim - created a strong style of workers pants with rivets that was quickly adopted by
Californian coal miners.

Today jeans are a staple of everybodys wardrobe and often a key element in seasonal trends and
fashion around the world. Each season brings with its new cuts, features, treatments and
embellishments.

Denim:
Denims durability is due to the weave, called a twill weave. Twill weaves have great abrasion
resistance, meaning the fabric will absorb a lot of friction before it breaks apart. The reason for
such great durability is the way the yarns are woven together: one set of yarns floats over another
24 set of yarns at regular intervals to create a diagonal textured fabric surface. It is these yarn
floats that absorb the abrasion.

Denim has always been used for very durable outdoor work clothing. Because of its weight,
rigidity, and thickness, denim is chosen for casual jackets, skirts, and jeans. Now that so many
garment-finishing techniques are applied to denim, its use has broadened into different lifestyles.
Denim apparel can command high prices, depending on the fit, finishing, and brand name.
Denim is still mostly used with most attention focused on interesting jeans. Spandex yarn is
added to denim to make the denim elastic. Denim without spandex tends to hold the body. A
25% spandex blend with cotton will stretch the fabric over the body for a more comfortable fit.

Strengths:

Highly durable fabric that can withstand abrasion.

Once the garment has been washed, denim does not progressively shrink.
Desirable textured surface.
Universally recognized fabric.

Weaknesses
Poor colorfastnesscolor will bleed into laundry and rub off onto other surfaces.
Denim stretches out, requiring hot water washing and drying to recover the fit.

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 Jeans Construction

1. Coin Pocket: Coin Pocket also known as Ticket / Watch pocket, was firstly designed
since 1873.

2. Belt Loops: Most jeans commonly feature 5 belt loops, a 7 belt loops for extra comfort
during horseback riding. Some jeans designing double layered belt loop for to add
strength to the construction.

3. Whiskers: The most common are is the horizontal fading lines around the thigh area of
worn in jeans. Also known as whiskers, mustache. Slim fitting jeans tend to have tight,
straight whiskers, while looser jeans usually have wide, more angled whiskers.

4. Bar tack: A sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans usually around
zippers, button flies, pocket openings, and crotch joins of inseams. It is a closely spaced
stitch that forms a band or a bar.

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5. Slubs: Modern yarn spinning machine produce very few slubs. Regardless of how the
slubs are created, the result is that the indigo fades the most where the thread is thickest.

6. Right Hand twill: A denim weave where the twill line rises to the right, the majority of
denim is woven as right-hand twill. Its also known as Z twill.

7. Inner/ off Seams: It depends on the client that on which side he needs folder or simple
single lock stitch.

8. Branding Patch: (PU label) Patch is most commonly placed along the top waist area
just above the right back pocket. Leather is the most popular material to use.

9. Back pockets: Most of the jeans have two back pockets sitting on left and right but there
are some designs that come out with one side pocket. Some of the brand are actually put
the rivet on the top edge corner of the pockets for the more durable use.

10. Wrinkles/ 3D whiskers: The fading line behind the knee of the jeans from wearing
process. During a process of wearing a pair of jeans, the area behind the knee is the most
area that gets scrunched by our movement and creates the personal line of fading pattern.

11. Chain Stitches: The purpose of using chain stitches is to increase the strength of the
jeans. And this becomes a very important part of jeans for the long lasting concept.

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Garment Process Flow

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 VMD
Vendor Marketing Department: The department from where everything starts.

VMD objectives:

Coordination with buyers and collect latest product designs, color scheme and fabric
qualities those are going to be used in coming seasons.
Prepare material requirement sheet and get sourcing done of required trims and
accessories from local and imported suppliers through MMC.
To send samples to buyers for approvals on each stage of development and download
buyers comments to sampling team and pattern master
Do follow up with sampling department at the time of stitching of samples
Check finished sample and arrange to send the samples to the buyer
Costing of developed products.

Our factory, VMD is well organized and divided into teams according to the brands, i.e. M&S,
Tessco, Asda George, Sepalla, Morrison, FatFace, Peacock etc. Every team has their team leads
as DM who reports to the Managers and General Manager. From Samples development to the
gold seal approvals and for the bulk new or repeat order its our department task to make sure,
everything goes according to the plan. Main task is to:

Stay Focused
Keep pace
Stay consistent
Things should be in control

Research and Development Department

US Apparel commitments to helping customers succeed drives us to continually develop
innovative ways to design and manufacture textile products to maximize profits and stay in
competition to provide customer wide range of options according to the seasons.

Our R&D department is not only relying on our fashion designers but also very eager to develop
more advance fabrics with new washes and dry method techniques. Designers follow the
upcoming season moods, colors and design according to their inspiration; its called as theme
branding. Other than that latest leather patches and photoshoots are also this department tasks.

Besides this R&D department has their own well experienced team for planning, developing,
merchandizing, fabric and material control.

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 Material Management Control

That function of business that is responsible for the coordination of planning, sourcing,
purchasing, moving, storing and controlling materials in an optimum manner so as to provide
service to the customer, at a pre-decided level at a minimum cost.

The fundamental objectives of the Materials Management function, often called the famous 5 Rs
of Materials Management, are acquisition of materials and services:

Of the right quality

In the right quantity
At the right time
From the right source
At the right price

In our company, the material management control not only make decisions regarding the export
oriented accessories of garments but also the internal usages things like notepads, pens etc.

Export oriented involves:

Threads (Embroidery and simple stitching threads)

Button and Rivets
Labels (patch label, care labels woven labels etc.)
Tags
Hangers & hooks
Polybags
Cartons
Belts
Security Pins
Elastics

Internal use local purchase products include:

Notepads
Sanitary
Stationery
Mess items
Glues
Tapes
Tag guns
Taps
Tubes and bulbs etc.
Machinery parts

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First of all the proposal is made for the Director approval, after the approval, sourcing is done
and after discussing and checking the products which meet our requirement in low price is
purchased without compromising the quality standards. Purchasing is done in a sequence, the
accessories we need before wash are purchased first and the remaining are purchased with 15-20
days gap. Hangers are preferred to be import by shipment because of their weight and volume;
we prefer to place order of their purchase first. Approx. time by air is 3-4 days while by shipment
is 35-40 working days.

STORE

First of MMC department generates a purchase order for the supplier, and supplier delivers the
order to our mill control gate, Barcodes checking is performed after that auditor verification,
Auditor makes a RGN receive goods note and attach a sample from the package for the
verification by MMC, If the MMC approves it then, piece by piece checking is performed and
the A grade material is sent to the store while faulty or damage pieces are sent back to the
supplier.

In store, there are two type of storage

Export oriented storage

General Storage

Export oriented storage consist of all the accessories related to the garments export from zipper,
buttons to the hangers. They are stored according to their sizes and brands. While General
storage includes the section wise storage of local supplies which are for the internal use of the
factory like mess items, stationery, bulbs etc. We can store the supply for 30-45 days.

Questionnaire:

Q1: How much thread costs for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: A kid garment consumes approx. 250 meter thread costing 10Rs. while men or women
garment consume approx. 350 meter thread costing 12-13Rs. Our main suppliers are
American and Efird, Muscat thread mills and J&P coats.

Q2: How much a zip costs for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: Our main supplier is YKK and it cost 14-15Rs. per piece depending on the size.

Q3: How much button and rivets cost for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: One button costs 6Rs. while a rivet costs 3Rs. Our main suppliers are King button China,
Golden button China and Rudholm and Haak Hong Kong.

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Q4: How much labels cost for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: Care and woven labels almost ranges from 2-2.5Rs. while patch and PU labels ranges
from 20-25Rs. Our main suppliers are SML Hong Kong, IT Hong Kong and locally we
are relying on TUR Printers.

Q5: How much tag cost for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: There are 2-4 tags are attached on garment ranges from 3-4Rs, depending on their size.

Q6: How much cost one hanger has and who are our main suppliers?
A: An average hanger cost ranges from 22-23Rs while hook type hangers are much cheaper
ranges from 8-10Rs. Our main suppliers are TIC and Maintetty.

Q7: How much Polybag costs for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: Individual polybag cost ranges from 2.5-3Rs. While Master polybags ranges from10-
12Rs.

Q8: How much one carton costs for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: Cost of carton per piece is approx. 5-6rs. A carton price is ranges from 100-200Rs.
depending on its size, Our main suppliers are New King Packages, Fine Packages and
Packages Ltd.

Q9: How much a security pin costs for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: Security pin price ranges from 10-12Rs. Our main suppliers are SML Hong Kong, IT
Hong Kong

Q10: How much an elastic costs for one garment and who are our main suppliers?
A: Elastic price per garment is approx. 5-6Rs and our main supplier is GIGI Industries.

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 Fabric Commercial & Store

When an order is placed, VMD discuss the customer requirement for the fabric with the fabric
commercial department, so that they can suggest and order fabric against that order. Fabric
commercial department team needs 30-45 days for the fabric arrangement for bulk production.
Fabric commercial department team is further categories in two, one for providing and dealing in
denim while other for the twill fabrics and if any dye or print is required on the twill then its
fabric commercial department job to make it done before the dead line. Other than that if the
research and development department or the VMD is going for the development of the new
samples then to provide the required fabric is also this department task.

This is the department of the unit, where the quality and quantity of fabric is inspected as soon as
it is received in the store, along with storing and maintaining stock levels and ensuring to stock
up in proper clean way. When the fabric is in-house, it should be capable of being supplied to the
cutting department. Inspection is done prior the cutting room issue so as to remove the defective
fabrics.

WORKFLOW OF FABRIC STORE

Receive P.O at head office Fabric received at gate

Documents verified Document are sent to

dept. for checking
)

Rolls received in fabric dept. Fabric unloaded

GRN Made Swatches and cuts maintained

Checking 4 point system Fabric sent for inspection

Fabric issued to cutting room as and when Fabric stored

required.

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Questionnaire:

Q1: Who are our suppliers for denim and twill fabrics?

A: For denim fabrics: US Denim, Azgard 9, Naveena Denim, Artistic Karachi, CBL etc.
For twill fabrics: US Emporio, Kohinoor, Sapphire etc.

Q2: Average rates for twill and denim fabrics?

A: Denim average ranges from 255-375 Rs/mtr while twill average rates are in between 250-275
Rs/mtr

Q3: How cost of fabric depends on whole finished garment?

A: In any garment costs there is more than 60 percent cost of it is for the fabric only.

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROLLING

Planning: This involves a long term overview around the year which is further divided into
monthly, weekly and daily plan. The work is allocated to the production capacity according to
the agreed plan as soon as the orders are confirmed.

Controlling: The production process is very uncertain and rarely goes according to the schedule,
especially when the processes are complex and dependent on the performance of individuals.
Balancing is a part of this process.

When VMD confirms any bulk order, then they give the details to the PPC for planning the
production from the very first stage to the final dispatch stage. All the specs and standards are
provided to the PPC to make sure that work would be completed within the time limit. PPC first
try 8-10 pieces for approval and to check the difficulty levels so that they can plan the production
according to it.

For difficulty level 1 and 2, we need 30 days

For difficulty level 3 and 4, we need 35 days
For difficulty level 5 and 6, we need 40 days

Its PPC duty to make sure that we achieve our 500k pieces target every month, which is the
gross production capacity of US 1 and 5.

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 Fabric Inspection Department

Fabric inspection department is a very important department it provides a base to the company
because no order can be run without the working report of FID. When an order is booked and
company wants to start working on it, firstly PCR activity report is generated for that by PPC and
is forwarded to FID who gets MS (Merchandiser Sheet) on the behalf of that PCR activity report
and starts working. The tests performed in FID are:

Visual fabric inspection test

Skew test
Shrinkage test
Shade matching test
Ounce test

1. Visual fabric inspection test:

It is the first test performed in FID to check the fabric visually for weaving defects. Fabric is
taken from the store room by the help of PCR activity report and rolls are brought for checking.
An inspection machine is used for this purpose, fabric roll is adjusted on one side of the machine
and a specific length of fabric is unrolled from the roll to pass over the machine and to reach on
other side where observer is standing. Some of the defects, which are noted during this process,
are:

Miss pick
Stains
Double pick
Wrong drawing
Double ends
Short ends
Knots
Broken ends
Startup mark
Loose ends

American 4 point system is mostly used for the detecting faults. If the defect is of 3 inches then
we will give it 1 point. if the defect length lies from 3-6 inch then 2 points will be given, if its 6-9
inch or more then we will give it 3 and 4 points respectively.

Point per 100 square meters = Total points * 100 / total fabric inspected*average width

A majority uses 15 points per roll in square meters length and 28 points per roll in linear meters
length but normally calculations are based on square meters length. On the behalf of this
evaluation, fabric is also categorized as A grade, B grade, C grade etc.

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2. Skew test:

Skew means twist, tilt or distorted, to check the skew in the fabric which is produced when warp
or weft changes its position due to very high twist in yarn. It is required in woven and especially
in denim to accommodate the shape of body as body is not flat, it also has curvature and flat
portions, but at the same time it is also a fault so a specific amount of skew is accepted. The
method used to find it out in FID is that fabric of specific amount of length is taken from a roll
normally 25 cm each side when folded, after folding both sides from opposite to each other.

We measure the square length diagonally after the wash let suppose the diagonal values are a
and b, then the formula to find skew will be.

Skew percentage = [(a b / a + b) / 2 ] * 100

3. Shrinkage test:

It is a very important test performed in FID because your bulk totally depends on the shrinkage
results. Customer provides us all required information about the product but his all
measurements are the measurements which are finally required so in order to achieve that we
have to be very careful during this test. On the behalf of FID test report, decisions are made and
during Marker Making in GGT seam allowances plus shrinkage is added and then pattern is
finalized to get final results after all processes like stitching and washing.

Before wash, 4-5 samples from different fabric rolls are cut and traced of 25 cm2 dimensions
with the help of irremovable ink and that is then over locked by O/L machine. Then washing
standard from PD is taken and according to that standard washing process is headed. After
washing, samples are sent back to sampling for their working and are given to FID. FID makes a
shrinkage report by noting the difference as before wash is 25 cm, that difference is then
multiplied with 4 to get results out of 1 square meter. Warp and weft shrinkage is determined
separately according to the above-described method.

4. Shade matching test:

It is also very important test to be performed in FID. It is a natural phenomenon that during
dying process, there is a shade variance between lots and rolls even sometimes within a roll so it
is very necessary to know about shades exist in roll because during spreading and cutting
processes if garment pieces are from different shades then the final garment would be rejected by
the customer. This test is done under the light of tube lights or any other specific light source
according to the demand.

Shrinkage and shading reports are used to compare with the fabric sourcing report because after
this step fabric is allocated to cutting department and finally the quality manger and
merchandiser sign shrinkage and shading reports. Shrinkage and shading reports are forwarded
to cutting department from where these move to next departments.

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5. Ounce test:

GSM (grams per square meter) is found while in woven and especially denim, ounces are used
rather than GSM. Method of calculating ounces is that a disk of fabric is cut with the help of
GSM disk cutter then that is weighed on electronic weighing balance. That weight is then
divided with 0.339066 to get ounces. It is important during packing and shipping of an order.

Product Development Department

PD department main task is to make sure that the samples being stitched and washed matches the
customer requirement, hence 3 samples are stitched against one article, different types of washes
are applied to get the best results as per customer demand.

Basically, Product development means to create something new by transforming ideas into
reality. This department plays a great role and converts all customer information and requirement
into technical form. After approval, this department generates a document called Merchandiser
Sheet which has all details regarding an order for the purpose of initial work in FID on that
order. Second main document generated by this department is Technical Sheet which contains all
technical information regarding that order with the addition of a graphical representation. This
technical sheet contains all measurements and stitching sequence with the reference for
requirement of machines to be used. This technical sheet is firstly issued to sampling department
and after sampling. PD does some essential amendments and then final sheet is issued to all
production departments.

Sampling Department
In sampling department, the approved article standards by Research and Development
Department or by the customer is given, Fabric is selected and cut according to the desired sizes,
while keeping the fabric properties in view, shrinkage is added according to the shrinkage
percentage of warp and weft. After cutting, initial samples are stitched on the lower scale before
the bulk production, after the samples are stitched they are sent to the washing department,
where the dry and wet processes are carried out. After washing the samples are sent to the
merchandizer or to the research and development department for the customer approval, If the
customers approves the sample then the recipe and the methods of washing with stitching
standards are sent to the bulk production departments. The samples which are prepared in this
department are known as Pre Production Samples.

The main jobs of this department is to check the first time marker measurement, before wash and
after wash measurements, after comparing before and after wash alteration are recommended and
shrinkage decision for the bulk production is taken. During marker measurement; parts quantity
is noted, parts direction and overall measurements like waist, hip, thigh, knee, bottom, back rise,
front rise and inseam are taken. Shrinkage is added weft wise in some parts like waist, hip, thigh,
knee and bottom while warp wise shrinkage is added in some parts like inseam, front rise and
back rise.

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Cutting Department

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Garber Garment Technology (GGT)

GGT has almost eliminated the time consuming method of manual pattern making where people
had to suffer if they needed variety of sizes because in manual pattern making you have to
prepare patterns of each part for each size separately while GGT is very fast to solve such kind of
problems by the help of rule table where reading or pattern points are known only and pattern
design system (PDS) where pattern is in front of the user, this process is technically given name
of grading.

Cutting Department:
The main role of a cutting department is to cut garment components from fabric rolls or fabric
than as per style specifications. And send cut components to sewing department in bundles. A
cutting department of a garment manufacturing unit includes following sub-processes:

Fabric spreading / layering on cutting table

Marker making
Cutting (manual cutting / machine cutting)
Numbering of garment plies (parts)
Sorting and Bundling
Inspection of cut components
Re-cutting of panels
Fusing garment components

When customer place any order, the VMD discuss it with PPC then PPC plan the cutting,
stitching, washing and finishing of that order. PPC send the cutting standards to the GGT with
approved size chart and size pack with all the details mentioned by the customer. First of all
cutting department cut a mini bulk lot and sends it for stitching and washing. After washing the
sample is send to the VMD for the fit and measurement approval. So that GGT can amend things
according to the comments. After the approval grading, amendments and marker making is done
for the bulk production.

After printing the marker sheet, the fabric after the approval of fabric inspection department is
carried from the fabric store where is is spread over the cutting table according to the sheet
length which is almost of 6 meters. Spreading can be manual and automatic as well; we are using
manual spreading method. It has two basic types; face up / Single ply and Face to face / Double
ply. Other that we are using spread height of max 4 inch. Spread height is the number of plies
per spread, depends on type of fabric and height of blade. After spreading the marker sheet is
pasted over the plies and been cut by the skilled workers precisely. After cutting, bundling,
inspection and sorting is done with mentioned numbers and stickers to avoid losses.

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There are around about 83 members in cutting department team.

Layering (12 members)

Quality (5-7 members)
Shade Marking (18 members)
Fusing inner belt and pocket cloth cutting (4 members)
1 manager, 1 In-charge, 2 supervisors and 2 Assistant supervisors.

Questionnaire:

Q1 Can cutting faults be altered?

A: Its fault cannot be tolerated and any mishap in cutting will result in wastage of fabric.

Q2 Difference between face to face and face up spreading? Which one is preferable?
A: Face-to-Face: With This method of spreading, the face is up on one ply and down on the
next ply as the spreader goes back and forth Spreading is continuous as the Spreader Moves up
and down the table Fastest method of spreading Least costly Generally results in lowest quality
Because the operator is only able to monitor the face of the fabric half the time

Facing up: Fabric must be cut at each end of the spread and the new end reposition A rotating
turntable can be used to turn the fabric roll 180 at the end of each ply The fabric can b spread
from both ends of the table without a wastage trip More time consuming

Q3 Points to improve cutting room efficiency?

A: Cutting quality can be improved by:
Careful handling
Advance machinery
Proper maintenance
Training and development
Pleasant working conditions

Work In Progress Department

WIP has the responsibility to receive pieces after counting from cutting department and feed
those pieces into the lines according to the PPC plan with by keeping the sequence of small parts
first, back panels and then front panels. They have the right to receive total required pieces and
responsibility to make a smooth feeding. If pieces get shortage due to WIP people then they are
bound for re-cutting.
This section is only one who completely knows the status of lines and orders as well and keeps
update relevant departments like PPC. After assembly 2, WIP again receives semi-finished
garments and feeds to washing department and then to finishing.

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 Before Wash (Stitching Department)

Stitching department is the heart of a manufacturing unit. Cut components are assembled in
stitching department in assembly line. List of sub-processes in this department includes.

Making garment parts

Sewing full garment with care and other labels
Checking of stitched garments
Alteration work of defective garments

In US Apparel 1, we have 6 stitching units which get the stitching plan from the PPC along with
all the specifications and details regarding the seams and the threads colors. No. of machines in
these stitching units are given below:
Unit 1 has 75 machines
Unit 2, 3 & 4 has 120 machines each
Unit 5 & 6 has 100 machines each

Every single unit is divided in 4 different sections to complete a garment in an efficient way to
increase the production:
Small parts section
Front panel and its components stitching
Back panel and its components stitching
Assembly 1: Front, back panel and waist belt stitching
Assembly 2: Eyelid, PU labels and bottom seam stitching

Machines used in stitching unit no. 2

Over lock machine (12 m/c)

Waist Belt machine (4 m/c)
Fedo machine (6 m/c)
Eyelid machine (3 m/c)
Bar tack machine (8 m/c)
Double needle lock stitch machine (7 m/c)
Double needle chain stitch machine (2 m/c)
Single needle lock stitch machine (78 m/c)

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 Operations involving in stitching

The basic process of sewing involves fastening of fabrics, or similar other flexible materials with
the help of needle and threads.

Section 1 (Small Parts)

Here in this section; the operations like, small parts tracing if necessary, pair making, back
pocket hemming, coin /watch pocket hemming, facing attachment with pocket bags, if there is
any, loop making, embroidery/mock stitch on parts, belt making, are performed.

Section 2 (Back Panel)

1. Right and left back panel and their back rise are stitched by the Fedo machine
2. On stitched back panels, the positioning of the back pockets is market on the exact desired
position as per customer demand.
3. Hemming of back pocket is done, it can be done by chain or lock stitch depending on the
customer demand.
4. Back pockets are stitched on the back marked panel by the single needle lock stitch machine.
5. Bar tacking is performed on the edges of the back pockets by the bartack machine.

Section 3 (Front Panel)

6. Ticket/coin pocket hemming is performed

7. Positioning of the ticket pocket on the facings is marked
8. Ticket pocket is stitched on the marked facing as per customer demand by the single needle
lock stitch machine.
9. Over lock of both left and right facings is done by the help of over lock machine.
10. After the over lock, Flat lock cover stich is stitched.
11. Facings and pocket back are stitched by the over lock machine
12. After fixing the facing and the pocket back, reverse stitch is stitched by the single needle
lock stitch
13. Front kacha that is stitching of the front panel and the facing is stitched by the single needle
lock stitch.
14. After the front kacha, it is fixed by the hand sewing double needle lock stitch to fix it.
15. Front patching is done for securing the pockets of both front panels separately on single
needle lock stitch.
16. Over locking of both panels depending on the customer demand. If its a zipper than a zip is
attached on the left front panel.
17. J stitch is stitched by the double needle lock stitch to fix and hide the zip under it. And single
and double ply are stitched on single needle lock stitch machine.
18. Stitching crotch on single needle lock stitch

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19. Front panel of bar tacking on J stich and other stitched joints.
20. Loop making is performed on the double need lock stitch machine.

Assembly 1:

After the individual stitching of the back and front panels, each piece is checked by the quality
control; they check the stitches quality and also there type according to the customer demand.
They match and pair the front and back panels, defected piece are sent back to their sections for
alteration.

21. After pairing the front and back panel is stitched as in seam over lock by the 5 thread chain
stitch machine also known as safety stitch.
22. Top stitch is done on the Fedo machine
23. Off seam is stitched by the single needle
24. 9 inch single or double stitch on the waist sides of off seam is stitched.
25. Waist belt is stitched on the stitched garment on the waist belt chain stitch machine.

Assembly 2:

26. Cutting of the excess belt and stitching it properly on single needle lock stitch.
27. Eyelids are stitched on the eye lid machines according to the garment style.
28. Loops are attached and bar tacking is performed on the waist belt of the garment.
29. Hemming of the bottom jeans.

Questionnaire:

Q1: What does bar tacking do?

A: Bar tack is a series of hand or machine made stitches used for reinforcing areas of stress on
a garment, such as pocket openings, bottom of a fly opening or buttonholes. Usually 1/16"-1/8"
in width and 1/4"-3/8" in length. In denim jeans, it is often in a contrasting color, such as orange
or white.

Q2: Machine types and their version available?

A: Over lock machine, Waist Belt machine, Fedo machine, Eyelid machine, Bar tack machine,
Double needle lock stitch machine, Double needle chain stitch machine, Single needle lock stitch
machine etc. We have JUKI and Brothers machines versions.

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Q3: What are the difficulty levels of any garment?
A: There are almost 7 difficulty levels of any garment, depending on the operations on it. Basic
garment is assigned level 1 garment, for this an operator just need basic skills of sewing. While
level 7 will be the most complex and high fashionable garment, requiring more time to finish it.

Q4: What are the basic skills required to stitch any garment?
A: An operator should have the following basic skills to sew any garment.

Identify fabric and notions requirements

Identify fabric fiber content/ weight/ weave
Prepare fabric
Understand pattern symbols
Lay out and cut pattern
Thread sewing machine
Choose and insert sewing machine needle
Sew straight lines
Sew seams
Sew curved lines and seams
Arrange legs together so can sew crotch seam
Sew intersecting seams

Q5: What are the significant aspects of Sewing?

A: There are certain aspects that have to be carefully considered while the sewing process as they
are very crucial for high quality sewing.

Thread tension and consumption: Correct balancing of the stitch and the tension given to
the threads is very important for quality stitch formation.
Presser- foot displacement and compressing force: Presser- foot is the part of the sewing
machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through by the feed
dogs. The feeding system is one of the most important constituting systems of the sewing
machine. If this system is not efficient then it results into irregular seams and many other
defects, especially when running on high speed.
Needle penetration force measurement: The interaction of needle with fabric is very
crucial. Fault-free needle penetration depends chiefly on the properties of fabric and
needle choice.

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Q6: What is the difference between the chain and lock stitch?

A: Chain stitch:

Advantages
More authentic and original
Results in nicer fading pattern around denim bottoms
Better roping effects (i.e. twisted, rope-like look at denim bottoms)
Disadvantages
Difficult to have done (special sewing machine)
Tends to unravel
Only noticeable on the inside (i.e. after you cuff)

Lock Stitch:

Advantages
Stronger stitch
Much cheaper
More accessible of a service
Disadvantages
Aesthetically more unnatural
Less appealing to some due to weaker roping effect

Chain Stitch Lock Stitch

Q7: What are the stitching standards?

A: Stitching standards are provided by the customer to the VMD and PD, mentioning all the
minor details like, what will be the seam length, stitch per inch on which machine with which
needle or thread counts, the operations will be carried out.

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 Garment Wet Processing Department
Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. Details are added using a fine abrasive
paper on a scraping tool. The jeans then go for washing. The purpose of adding these special
effects is to give the garment worn look artificially, the look that denim garment gradually
develops naturally when it used. The shape, intensity and placement of these effects are same as
that of standard sample.
In this department garment is treated both mechanically and chemically to achieve desired look
as required by the standard.

Denim Dry Processing

In this department there are 10 stands for mustache, 38 balloon robots for scrapping operation, 5
grinding machines for distress and 2 denizen machines for tagging.

1. Scraping: Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments.
Garment is abraded with sand paper form specific areas: thighs, knees, waist band, yoke,
back pockets, below back pockets etc. Depending upon the area and shape of scrap, scraping
is differentiated as:
Regular scrap (approximately up to 4 fingers below half on front panel and 8 to 10
fingers below back).
Patch scrap (patches are made on different areas of garment)
Full body scrap (regular scrap or patch scrap + light merging on whole garment up
to bottom hems)

2. Whiskers/Mustache/Chevron: Whiskers/ Mustaches, Chevrons are the impression generated

by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs & pattern available. Lines of
predefined shape are made on specific areas of garment with the help of sand paper and
pattern sheet, which shape like mustache (whiskers). The area of garment is first marked
where mustache is required according to standard. Design of mustache is engraved on the
pattern sheet according to standard. This pattern sheet is held on the stand with sticking tape.
Design is transferred to garment by adjusting it on pattern sheet and rubbing with sand paper.

3. Tacking: Tacking is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of
plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast (rigid & washed)
on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc. After completing wash
cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening.

4. Ripping: Garment is damaged from different areas as on standard by removing warp yarn
with sand paper.

5. Distress: Garment is damaged with grinding machine mostly from front and back pockets
and bottom hems.

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6. Cable tie: Tie up the garment from any area as required by standard to get crunch look after
washing. Garment can also be enclosed in the socks like bag which is called scrunch net.
This depends on what sort of look we want achieve on the final garment.

7. Resin Application (3D-Effect): Resin being used for achieving 3D effect. This process can
be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in
right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed. After application
of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip &
back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it, it should be dry & then must be
cured in oven at right temperature.

8. PP spray: KMNO4 is sprayed over the scrapped area to oxidize and bleed out the indigo.

Wet processing department (Washing)

In washing department there are 18 barrel washers, 7 hydro extract and 12 dryers. Different
chemicals being used in the washing department are listed below:

Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl): Oxidizing agent used for bleaching

Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2): Oxidizing agent used for bleaching
Potassium per manganate (KMnO4): As oxidizer
Sodium hydroxide or caustic soda (NaOH): Strong alkali used to adjust pH
Sodium carbonate or soda ash (Na2CO3): weak alkali used also used to adjust pH
Sodium Meta bisulphite: Reducing agent used to neutralize the bleached garment and
KMnO4 sprayed garment
Optical brightening agent or leuco (OBA): Used to give extra whiteness to garment.
Amylase enzyme (desizer): To remove size material (starch) by converting it in to water
soluble compound (glucose)
Cellulase enzyme (abraser): Acts on cellulosic part of the garment used for bio polishing and
to get salt and pepper like effect on garment (enzyme wash)
Wetting agent (Ni): Lowers the surface tension of water and enhances the wet ability of the
garment
Anti-back staining agent: Dispersing agent used to avoid staining on pocket lining and
undyed weft yarn.
Sodium chloride or common salt (NaCl): Electrolyte used for exhaustion of the dye while
dyeing and tint

Different types of washings being used in the washing department are listed below:

1. Desizing: Desizing is done with amylase enzyme to remove size material (starch) by
converting it into water soluble glucose units. Normally 10 minutes time is enough for
desizing at room temperature. After desizing the garment becomes soft. Wetting agent and
anti back stainer are auxiliaries that are added during desizing.

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2. Bio-polishing or enzyme wash: Cellulase enzyme is used for bio-polishing or enzyme wash.
Cellulase enzyme degrades the cellulosic part of the garment and produces a look which is
commonly known as salt and pepper look. Concentration of enzyme and time are the main
parameters to control the number of grains.

3. Bleaching: Garment is bleached with bleaching agent like sodium hypochlorite, Hydrogen
per oxide and potassium per manganate. These bleaching agents bleed the indigo dye by
oxidizing it. Different shades (dark, medium, light) are produced to match the standard, by
controlling the intensity of bleaching.
Bleaching with hydrogen per oxide require caustic soda to adjust the pH at 10.5-11
for control bleaching. PH higher than 11 results into uncontrolled bleaching that
decreases the strength of garment.
Soda ash should be used while bleaching with sodium hypochlorite for control
bleaching.
NaOCl is not preferred for the garment dyed with sulfur dyes because sulfur dyes
have poor fastness properties against chlorine bleaches.

4. Tint wash: Depending upon the final tone required by the standard, garment is tint with dye
solution. The concentration of the solution is generally ranges from 1g/500liter to 2g/500liter.
Mostly direct dye is used for this purpose. Sodium chloride is use to enhance exhaustion of
dye on to the garment.

5. Stone wash: Garment is stone washed if heavy grains are required by the standard. Stone
wash is mostly combined with enzyme wash. Calcium carbonate stones are used for this
purpose. New stones have sharp edges which need to be smooth before running with
garment. Edges are first smoothed by running in to empty machine.

6. Neutralization: After bleaching garment is neutralized with sodium meta bisulphite. It is a

reducing agent which neutralizes the effect of oxidizing agent. Improper neutralization of
bleach will result in to loss in the strength of garment.

Note: Any combination of the above mentioned washes can be used depending upon the results
required by the standard.

Questionnaire:

Q1: Precautions while scrapping any garment?

A: Hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results. Hand sanding must be started
from intense part & feathering out on less intense part gradually. One garment must be done by
one operator only to have balance intensity on both the legs.

Q2: When we say its vintage? What does exactly it means?

A: When we talk about Vintage denim, every garment should look unique, not a photocopy.
These garments are sold at high prices so customer should have a feeling of uniqueness & feeling
different from others.

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Q3: if resin is not cured what will be the effect?
A: If resin not cured properly, 3D effect will not be permanent & can cause skin irritation/rashes
to the wearer. Highly skilled operators need to execute this process in order to get consistency &
uniformity.

Q4: Temperature for temporary and permanent 3D whiskers?

A: In case of temporary 3D whiskers, we use PVA as a resin and it is only dried in oven at 100
degree Celsius. While for the permanent effect after drying it should be cured at 150 degree
Celsius.

Q5: How we select the sand paper grains intensity?

A: Sand papers are given different numbers as 1000, 600, 480, 320, 220, 80. These numbers are
given according to the number of grains per square inch present on the surface of sand paper. As
the number of grains per square inch increases the surface becomes more smooth and vice versa.
For medium fabrics we use 600 no, while for the very light fabric number 1000 is preferred.

Q6: Methods of removing sizes?

Washing with High Alkaline agents ( i.e. Soda ash )
Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid )
Washing with Oxidative chemicals ( i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide )
Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase. This is eco-friendly.

Q7: Types of enzymes and their uses?

A: There are mainly three kind of Cellulase being used for Denim washing, Neutral, Acid and
Bio polishing Enzyme. Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e., pH,
Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the mark, result will not be
accurate.
Amylase (Desizing)
Cellulase (For Salt & pepper effect , contrast)
Laccase (Bio bleaching)
Catalase (Peroxide killer)

Q8: Which enzyme is used to avoid pilling?

A: Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven
fabric. This is also widely known as Anti pilling enzyme.

Q9: How to avoid yellowing of the fabric?

A: Ensure bleaching neutralization & rinsing is proper. Minimize back staining. Avoid leaving
garment in open air for longer time. Control drying & curing temperatures. By using right
softener with right ph.

Q10: Difference between stone and enzyme wash?

A: Stones cause random abrasion on the garment while enzyme cause uniform abrasion
everywhere on the garment.

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 After Wash
After the dry, wet processes and washing of the stitched jeans, they are checked and bundled up
in groups of same quality and sizes for the after wash process. After wash processes involves

Printing
Finishing
Dispatching

There is a team of 625 members working in these three departments. Every department has its
own quality team and managers. Printing team consists of 45 members, dispatching team 50 and
Finishing team 530. Work is done in 2-3 shifts depending on the dead line.

Printing and Embroidery

Screen Printing

Screen printing consists of three elements: the screen which is the image carrier; the squeegee;
and ink. The screen printing process uses a porous mesh stretched tightly over a frame made of
wood or metal. Proper tension is essential to accurate color registration. The mesh is made of
porous stainless steel mesh. A stencil is produced on the screen either manually or photo-
chemically. The stencil defines the image to be printed in other printing technologies this would
be referred to as the image plate.

Screen printing ink is applied to the substrate by placing the screen over the material. Ink with a
paint-like consistency is placed onto the top of the screen. Ink is then forced through the fine
mesh openings using a squeegee that is drawn across the screen, applying pressure thereby
forcing the ink through the open areas of the screen. Ink will pass through only in areas where no
stencil is applied, thus forming an image on the printing substrate. The diameter of the threads
and the thread count of the mesh will determine how much ink is deposited onto the substrates.

Labels bedding machine:

Heat Seal/Transfer Label, which provides crisp, clear graphics even on dark colored Fabrics,
these labels are applied using a combination of heat and pressure and are used for permanent
labeling applications on fabrics.
In this heat exchange labeling process, Bedding machine is used, jeans waist on which the label
should be transferred is placed on the bed plate, the 1st bed is pressed at
160-180 degree Celsius to make it even and after that the label is applied and re-bedding is done
at the same temperature with pressure to fix the label on the garment.

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Embroidery Machine:

Embroidery sewing machines can add beauty and themed detail to anything you sew. We have 2
embroidery machines in our embroidery section. Speed 1000 rpm, manufacturer TAJIMA, the
design is fed by the USB, software being used is Wilcom. This machine can use 9 different
colors in one design; only one needle will work at one time.

There are 2 servo motors attached in the machine, each for x & y direction. While different types
of fusing are used under the fabric before embroidery to provide strength to the fabrics. There are
basically three types of fusing.

Tear able: Fusing which can be tear off after the embroidery or washes.
Non-Tear able: Fusing which cannot be tear off even after washing, this is the cheapest one and
has rough and harsh feel.
Water Soluble: Fusing which has a property to dissolve in water on its first wash giving the
fabric the best quality and feel properties. Its the most expensive one.

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 Finishing

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Finishing involves the following task:

Button rivet
PU labeling
Trimming
Pressing
Measurement Section
Final Checking
Super final Checking
Quality super visor Audit
MD Machine

Button & Rivet:

A Jeans Button is generally used as a method of fastening for denim trousers or denim jackets. A
Jeans Button consists of 2 components - The Jeans Button & Jeans Button tack. A jeans button
tack attaches through the fabric and secures into the base of the jeans button.

A Jeans Rivet is commonly used as a method of pocket reinforcement for denim trousers, also as
a means of decoration on a garment. A Jeans Rivet set consists of 2 components - The Jeans
Rivet & Jeans rivet tack. Jeans rivet tack attaches through the fabric and secures into the base of
the jeans rivet.

These are fixed by the button attachment machine; the button dye diameter is reduced according
to the size of the rivet and the button.

PU labeling:

The branding patch is most commonly placed along the waistband above the right pocket at the
back of the jeans. Its usually made of leather or leather-like cardboard. Originally the main
purpose of the patch was to inform customers of the strength of the product and to help them
identify the brand. It is stitched by the single needle lock stitch machine.

Trimming and loop cutting:

Loop cutting is the process of cutting extra loops which were attached in stitching department.
Trimming section starts working after receiving garments from loop cutting section. The process
of cutting extra threads on a garment is called trimming. In this process, threads are cut from
both out and inside of the garment. A line incharge and quality checker as well checks the
garment to confirm for missing threads. Trimming involves:
Loops
Bottom jeans threads
Back pockets
9 inch single

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 Facing threads
Ticket Pockets and labels
Eyelids, zip area and belt

Pressing:

Press is the process to remove all unnecessary wrinkles and creases from the garments to give
them a good look. Before the starting of this process, quality checker checks the measurements
of randomly selected garments one by one to see after wash trend of garments by making a specs
sheet; if measurements are in minus then during pressing those areas are stretched to
accommodate that little bit difference and if measurement are in plus then go for normal
pressing.
Pressing is done 0.5 inch outside from the off seam according to shape required, mostly back
panel size is more than the front one. Teflon boots are used on the irons to avoid the patches over
the garment.

Measuring Section:

100% measurements are checked like waist, length, inseam, thigh, knee etc. and defect like
wrong labels are pointed out.

Final Checking:

It is the process of checking a garment from outside for its shape, stitching faults, damages,
stains, trim and accessories missing, bar tack missing etc. 30 Pieces are checked per hour.
Super Final Checking:

Super final checking is the process of checking a garment in depth for every parameter. There is
a team of 3 members, they have their specific tasks. 1st one check the front rise, front belt and
pockets, 2nd one check the back pocket, back yoke and back panel while the 3rd person check and
over view all the garment.

Quality supervisor audit:

Quality auditor check 32 pieces out of 200 pieces, if there are more than 1 major 2 minor faults
then all the pieces are sent back for re-checking and alterations.

MD Machine:

If the quality supervisor approves the quality of the garments then these garments are transferred
to the dispatching section through metal detector machine, to make sure that no pin, needle or
hook be attached with the garment. The machine we have in the unit is HASHIMA HW 776G-
100.

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 Dispatching

The garments received from the finishing floor are sent first for front and back check again, size
sticker, security pins, carding is done by the denizen machines. Then garments go for leg stickers
if necessary and a person is standing at the end makes sure that no garment is missed for the
necessary stickers. After this, ratio wise sizing is performed and then shading process to make
families of available shades to make it possible that one shade would be packed in one carton.
After shading, according to the customers instructions garments are packed first in poly bags and
then in carton.

There are two types of packing:

1. Solid
2. Ratio

Solid is that kind of packing in which one size is packed in one carton while sorted is the kind in
which packing is done according to the given ratio.

When garments are packed, all required information is pasted on the carton plus barcode
according to the customer demand. Cartons size and garments per carton is also decided by the
customer.

Questionnaire:

Q1: Factors affecting screen printing?

A: Many factors such as composition, size and form, angle, pressure, and speed of the blade
(squeegee) determine the quality of the impression made by the squeegee.

Q2: Difference in digital and screen printing?

A: Screen printing involves creating a stencil (printers call this a "screen"), and then using that
stencil to apply layers of ink on the printing surface. Each color is applied using a different
stencil, one at a time, combined to achieve the final look.
Digital printing is a much newer process that involves your artwork being processed by a
computer, and then printed directly onto the surface of your product. Digital printing is not a heat
transfer, as the ink is directly adhered to the fabric of your shirt.

Q3: What are the major and minor faults of checking the denim jeans?

A: Major faults includes broken thread, broken stitch, damaged fabric or stitch, stains, missing
button or rivet, missing or wrong labels or elastic. While minor faults are extra thread and light
stain.

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 Industrial Engineering Department
Industrial Engineering is the process of productivity improvement through standardization of
operations for ease in work and best utilization of all available resources. It can be defined to get
maximum output with minimum input. IED objectives are;

Piece rate development

Capacity calculations
Lines balancing
Method standardization
Performance evaluation
To decrease distance between operations and departments.
To calculate the accurate time to complete a specific procedure or operation.

In our factory, Industrial Engineering department not only focus on simplifying the processes but
also train the workers according to the latest technology. They try to shift all the manual work of
garment to the folder for consistency. When VMD take any order of garments then they send the
garment to this department to check its difficulty level according to the SMV (standard minute
value). SMV of different difficulty levels are calculated by taking average time of the operations
by other workers of other factories or within the same factory.

Level 1 Garment will be stitched in 12-12.99 min

Level 2 Garment will be stitched in 13-13.99 min
Level 3 Garment will be stitched in 16-18.99 min
Level 4 Garment will be stitched in 19-22.99 min
Level 5 Garment will be stitched in 23-26.99 min
Level 6 Garment will be stitched in 27-40.99 min
Level 7 Garment will take 41 min or more to be stitched.

Similarly, while calculating the wages of the worker and overheads of any garment, Industrial
Engineering Department also check that which skill level of labor is being used while producing
the garment

Skill level 1 (Most skillful who can operate crotch seams, waist belt and eye lid machine)
Skill level 2 (Single needle lock stitch while keeping the quality standards)
Skill level 3 (can operate over lock machine or make loops)
Skill level 4 (Helpers)

Note: Daily wages of skill level 1 labor is 550rs, level 2 500rs, level 3 450rs and level 4 is 400rs.

Other than this Industrial Engineering department also provide support to all industrial budget
and prepare design of facility layout and assist to handle all materials and equipment and assist to
improve all costs and analyze same and design plan to eliminate all waste from industrial
processes. Maintain and update system and evaluate all building layouts and recommend
improvements to all product flow.

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 Quality Control
Quality Assurance:
It is a process based approach which focuses on right first time operations. It uses preventive
actions rather than corrective action and there is a saying that prevention is better than cure.

Quality Control:
It is a product based approach which is used to segregate good one from bad one. It uses
corrective actions after occurring of a problem by living within the tolerance limits.

Quality assurance department is using Statistical Process Control (SPC) to standardize the
processes that will result in right first time operation. Daily report of every production
department is prepared by the inline quality person; by the help of that report a summary is made
which clearly points out the problematic area. Quality assurance tries to find the root cause of
that problem and finally makes such kind of arrangements so that problem would not be created
again.

In our factory, we have made benchmark quality standards of brand M&S so that 90% brands
quality standards are also fulfilled while maintaining the standards. We make sure that we have
skilled labor on machines, our machines are running fine, 1 dye log fabric is preferred,
accessories inspection and quality analysis on daily reports. From fabric inspection department
to the dispatching, if there is any problem faced by the quality staff, they try to resolve it on time
to meet the dead line. There is a team of 196 members who are only working for keeping the
quality consistent or better as per customer demand.

Department wise quality check points

Fabric Store - 100% fabric inspection

Trim -
& Trims inspection
accessories
Cutting Room Marker checking
Cut parts checking
Audit Bundle inspection

Embroidery - 100% inspection of embroidery

Sewing Inline check point (at critical operation)
Department Roaming checking (Random checking)
End of Line checking (100%)
Audit of checked pieces
Finishing Initial finishing inspection (after wash) and alterations
Department Final finishing inspection (After Pressing)
Internal shipment audit

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 Import and Export Department

Import and export department is not only working as a supply chain department but also
providing the logistic services to the mill. From all the imports for the materials or mill
machinery to the export of the bulk orders, this department provides and suggests the best
possible ways to export or import to meet the dead lines while focusing on saving mill budget
and indirectly maximizing the profits.

When we import any accessories then MMC gives the details to this department, it can be import
by ship or air. Shipment can take 30 days while by air it can be import within 3-4 days. When we
ex-mill any cargo against any order, it is our import and export department to make sure that
containers arrive at factory on time and after loading the order, it arrives the Qasim port on time,
so that the forwarders can clear and verify the order.

There are mainly two types of export, one is FOB and other one is CNF. Our VMD team most of
the time sign FOB orders. FOB is for free on board, in which we just deliver the shipment to the
Karachi port. While in other type, we have to make it sure that the shipment arrives at their ware
house or our customers required location.

Some essential forms to be attached with the files:

E-Form
Goods Declaration Form
Container requirement
Packing Details
Order number
Garment Composition
Customer Details
Examination reports
Checklist of container
Custom documents
Certification from Lahore chamber of commerce

Finance Department

The finance department is one of the most important departments of our company. It records
operating transactions, analyzes them and prepares financial statements that inform top
management and managers about our company economic health.

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Functions of finance department are:

Book keeping
Obtaining and managing finance
Budget control
Accounts Payable
Accounts receivable
Credit regulations and policies
Bills processing /Claim Processing

First of all, a PO is generated after the deal is confirmed between the marketer and the customer.
In PO there is a complete detail of the fabric and the accessories needed per garment. After the
approval of the marketer and the customer, required fabric and accessories order is placed by the
fabric commercial and material management team. The documents are sent to the finance
department along with the details of all the rates, quantity and suppliers name.

When the fabric and accessories are imported and delivered at the factory gate, Inward Gate Pass
is issued and the stock is lifted up from the container to the control room, here the same is
attached to the documents and sent to the MMC for approval and verification, After the
verification, If its Fabric then FRN or if its accessories then GRN is generated and these
documents are sent to the VMD, from where all the supporting documents are attached and sent
to the Finance Department, Here the finance department check and verify all the documents and
rate from the supplier, MMC and the store. If the quality control team approves the quality then
the finance department moves forward to the next step, which is to pay the supplier as the
agreement.

One of the major role of the Finance department is to calculate the extra expenses on producing
the garment which are not added by the marketer or the merchandizer while signing a deal, that
are electricity bills, freight charges, diesel generator charges, salaries, machinery maintenance
charges, hence fixed overheads are added per garment depending on its difficulty level of the
garment it can be added from 170rs to 230rs or more. Other than that finance department makes
sure that the VMD has added the rejection cost of 3 percent before the deal and also the discount
cost should be added. Finance department also make sure that no deal should be signed or
approved if the profit of the company is less than 5 percent, in these exceptional cases, Directors
approval is required.

Our Finance Department is further divided in different wings to work efficiently and effectively.

Account Payable Department: An accounting entry that represents an entity's obligation

to pay off a short-term debt to its creditors. The accounts payable entry is found on a
balance sheet under the heading current liabilities.
Receivable amount: short-term amounts due from buyers to a seller who have purchased
goods or services from the seller on credit.
Report preparation department: summary of accounting data for that period, with
background notes, forms, and other information.
Budget control: Controls the amount of money spent.

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By: Hassan Shahzad
Conclusion & Suggestions

After joining, observing and going through all the departments of US Apparel, I felt proud to be
the part of this unit team. But still as they say, there is always a room of improvement to make
things better and smoother.

VMD and R&D teams should have access to their accounts like other textile companies
so that they can work and reply of their mails late night aswel, so that they can work
more effectively on working hours.

Would love to see some development in fabric constructions and their compositions, to
try new combination of weaves with different compositions.

If we are trying hard for development samples and making sure that our sample stitch out
as our requirements then there is 80 percent chance that washing guys will ruin it, we
need some experienced team for washing.

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By: Hassan Shahzad
Bibliography

VMD Mr. Ali Qamar

R&D Department Mr. Kashif Junaid

MMC / Store Mr. M. Zaheer

Fabric Commercial / Store Mr. Mudassar Mushtaq

PPC Mr. Ali Niaz

PD / Sampling Mr. Adnan Faiz

Cutting Department / GGT Mr. Zameer Hussain

Stitching Department Mr. Mian Muneeb

Garment Dry/Wet Processing Mr. M. Kaleem Saif

Printing, Finishing and Dispatching Mr. Irfan Tahir

Industrial Engineering Department Mr. Abid Husssain

Import and Export Department Mr. Tahir

Finance Department Mr. Imran Hashmi

Quality Control Department Mr. Raheel Taji

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By: Hassan Shahzad