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Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Berlin
August - September 2016

Nightmares & daydreams


Hieronymus Bosch revisited

Kick off
The new sports season starts

inyourpocket.com
N82 - 1.75
Contents

Transport 5
Getting around by S&U

Basics 6
Essential travel tips

Sports in Berlin 8
All about Berlins top teams

Galleries & Exhibitions 11


Art special

Culture & Events 12


Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Mitte 19
The delights of the city centre
Vladislav | Dreamstime.com
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 32
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Friedrichshain 41
Workers paradise, students playground
SYMBOL KEY Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 44
The gentrified north
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music Berlin Kreuzberg 48
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room City Tours 57
S Take away R Internet Guided walks, bike rides and drives
W Wi-Fi
River Tours 59
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Directory & Street register 60

L Guarded parking H Conference facilities Maps & Index


F Fitness centre K Restaurant City map 61-63
Public transport map 64-65
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Index 66
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine. BERLIN BOXES
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Scattered throughout the guide youll find boxes with
Not cheap; 20-30 per person. more information about these topics:
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Erasmus Student Network 6
Cheap; less than 10 per person. West Berlin Revival 37

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 3


Foreword
Summer in Berlin is the most magical of seasons. The
Publisher
city centre streets are quiet as most of the locals have In Your Pocket GmbH
fled to southern climes, and you feel like you have the Axel-Springer-Strae 39
city to yourself. In the quirky suburbs like Kreuzberg and 10969 Berlin
Friedrichshain, the locals take ownership of the parks and Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
open spaces to the max, by sitting around, drinking beers, Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
grilling sausages or just hanging out till late at night. The www.inyourpocket.com
feeling of randomly wandering around such a lively city
ISSN 1611-9037
in the late afternoons or evenings is incredible, and highly
recommended. Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
Back indoors, there are amazing exhibitions, multimedia The public transport map is used under license no. BVG0079.11.
shows and performances to be seen... check out our events
Editorial
calendar to see whats on. The new sports season is about Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krger, Christina Knight
to kick off as well, with several of Berlins teams playing very Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tom Haman
well indeed why not catch a match while youre here? Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner
Whatever you do this summer, remember to go sit in a park Cover Anibaltrejo | Dreamstime.com
at some point - and let us know your tips and comments at Sales & Circulation
berlin@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Berlin. General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krger,
COVER STORY CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)

Berlins iconic Brandenburger Copyright notice & Editors note


Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated)
Tor city gate is the first stop-off copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No
for most tourists in the city part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
and the backdrop for the many without written permission from the copyright owner.
reporters talking about German The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
or EU matters. See it for yourself, UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
just steps away from the tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
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4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Transport
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke
empty vastness of northeast Germany, its very well tarriff; 4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, youll wish that your home town had CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
such good public transport. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional WRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just www.wuerfelfunk.de.
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local. CYCLING
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes As long as its dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at by bicycle. Its a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
services. Vending machines have instructions in English may take a while, though for 1,60 you can take your bike
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlins on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; youll only need places, most charging 10-12 per day. The urban bike
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone 2,70, ABC 3,30) cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-Fahrten-
Karte, 9). Buy a 1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if
CITY CARDS
you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get to travel around town a lot and see more than one
the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
7,00) or the seven-day pass (30,00). Groups of up to five and youths may get better reductions at museums
people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day using their student ID cards.
ticket, 17,30). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (19,50-
42,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. BERLIN WELCOMECARD
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes hours (AB 19,50, ABC 21,50), 72 hours (27,50/29,50),
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket youll and 4 (31,50/34,50), 5 (35,50/40,50) or 6 days
be fined 60 on the spot. (41,50/45,50). Theres also a 72-hour variety (42/44)
that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel
BVG museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks.
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at http:// The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com)
www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg. is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts
de, www.bvg.de/en. geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs
17,50 for AB, 19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours,
TAXIS 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing 50 museums, including the permanent collections of
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same with the Berlin Museum Pass (24/12, valid three days).
day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is 3,40; then up Its for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
to 7km its 1,79/km, thereafter 1,28/km. Waiting costs 25/ Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 5
Basics
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers

DRINKS & ALCOHOL


Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita MONEY
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denom-
Berlins local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only real- inations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins,
ly palatable mit Schuss, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cock- whose design depends on in which country they were
tails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped cents and 1 and 2. Credit and debit card payment is
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (kloob mah-tea) ice tea, venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
made with extract of the South American mat plant, caffeine just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
just below the top label and top it up with wodka). Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

CRIME & SAFETY VISAS AND ENTRY


Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty FORMALITIES
crimes are low compared to other Western European cap- EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
itals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your registration at a Brgeramt office is officially required for stays
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walk- Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
ing in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
occur in Berlins touristed central areas. days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that theres no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European Schen-
ELECTRICITY gen countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via stand- Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
ard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
many hotels will have them at the front desk too. for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

ERASMUS STUDENT CLIMATE


NETWORK
30 80

How do international students get to meet locals 25 70


and the city during an academic exchange? The 60
20
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
Temperature C

Rainfall (mm)

50
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student 15
40
associations in Europe. It was developed to help 10
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present 30
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 5
20
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section 0 10
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
-5 0
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
Rainfall (mm) Min Temp (C) Max Temp (C)
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.

6 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Berlin Districts
Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, youre still
left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners
often find everything they need. Public transportation is
far-reaching and effective though, and youll grow to love it
as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights:
Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
dreamstime.com
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. Its on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it
to sidewalk caf, pointing out directions to tourists seeking was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
deportations of the Nazi era. of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzbergs way of reliving its 15 minutes
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, at the mens clubs, caf-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufrstendamm, the staid parts of the district.
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) and the setting PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)
becomes more genteel where you cant see the buildings for On a low hill northeast of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an old
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
TIERGARTEN (TG) Prenzlauer Bergs few attractions include the Vitra Design
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
park that began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
dosey-doe around the Siegessule (Victory Column). Slicing breakfast all day.
though the parks length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl. FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
KREUZBERG (KB) Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off Zehlendorf (ZD).
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 7
Sports in Berlin
BERLIN MARATHON
With around 35,000 participants, a million spectators, the
fastest runners in the world and a series of world records,
the Berlin Marathon is a fantastic event that dominates
the city all weekend. This year, the 43rd edition of the
marathon on Sunday 25 September has a mens and
womens run, a race for wheelchairs, rollerbladers and
children. To keep the runners and the audience inspired,
dozends of bands perform along the route. The marathon
runs clockwise through the city, from Tiergarten park
east through Mitte and Friedrichshain, aross the Spree
Salomon Kalou CityPress river into Kreuzberg and Schoeneberg and then via
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports the southern suburbs back to Brandenburger Tor. The
- the city has no less than six professional sports teams, police have their own marathon to organise, blocking
playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC off dozens of streets as the participants come through;
Union play football, the Eisbren is an ace ice hockey team, count on many blocked streets, and stick to the the
Alba is Berlins renowned basketball club, the Fchse play U- and S-Bahn if you plan on getting anywhere fast
handball, and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. on Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning. For more
Their home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to information, see www.bmw-berlin-marathon.com.
Berlins stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were
sold for their events. In addition to this, Berlins streets playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all
regularly host huge sports events such as the public home matches for the following months, though always
viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional
the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. matches.
Despite being rivals, Berlins six professional sports Berlins official English-language sports website
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlins image as an international all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site
sports event destination. www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
The home matches of Berlins pro teams are easy to visit: Enjoy cheering for Berlin!
you dont need to understand German to be able to follow
a match and unlike in other European countries, sports Hertha BSC
matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning Local football team Hertha BSCs had a dream season with a
its no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium slightly disappointing end, leaving the fans clad in blue and
for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about white ecstatic. The striker duo Vedad Ibisevic and Salomon
which matches are playing where can be problematic for Kalou are both in their early 30s now - which can be an
visitors however as the club websites are not all available advantage also as theyll play the second saison together. It
in English, and some make it difficult to find the upcoming will be interesting to see how Ondrej Duda acquired from
Legia Warsaw - will fit in the the mid-field.

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)


Also known as the Albatrosse, BR VOLLEYS
Berlins basketball club is (VOLLEYBALL)
Germanys most successful, and Berlins professional
has the largest fanbase; home volleyball team orig-
matches easily attract 10,000 inates in the western
spectators. Since going pro in district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at
1991, Alba has won the German the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR
League 8 times and the German Volleys have been particularly successful since the late
Cup 7 times, and was also the first German team to win 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title five times.
an international title. Alba started the season well but They won everything they could win this season: the
badly missed Reggie Redding and Clifford Hammonds, German competition, DVV-Cup and the European Cup
leading them to exit the playoffs early. - and set a record for the number of spectators.
Albas 2016/2017 season starts in October. The BR Volleys new season starts in October.
QI4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-
1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets 8-65. volleys.de. Tickets 13-16.

8 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Sports in Berlin
EISBREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) FCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)
Originating in 1953 in East The foxes, Berlins
Germanys Dynamo sports handball team, is part
club, the polar bears are of an old West Berlin
Berlins popular professional sports club, and now
ice hockey team. They won the plays home matches
national league 7 times, have in Prenzlauer Bergs
also bagged the European Max-Schmeling-Halle,
Trophy. Their home matches named after the boxing
at the Mercedes-Benz-Arena legend who was world
are true familyfests, with a festive, good-humoured champion heavyweight
atmosphere. Eisbren has four young guns joining between 1930-32. The
from the youth team, and acquired Kyle Wilson from Fchse had a fabulous last season, winning the Euro-
the SCl Tigers - a much needed reform for the offensive pean Cup at home. With many new faces in the team,
midfield position. With his long experience he could theyre set to play European matches again from No-
be the new playmaker and is also a good goal-getter. vember.
19 Aug, 19:30: Lule Hockey
21 Aug, 14:30: SaiPa Lappeenranta 14 Sept, 19:00: TSV GWD Minden
16 Sept, 19:30: Straubing Tigers 25 Sept, 17:15: HBW Balingen-Weilstetten
23 Sept, 19:30: EHC Red Bull Mnchen 28 Sept, 19:00: TVB 1898 Stuttgart
30 Sept, 19:30: Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers
QG1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
QI4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel.
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 +49 30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets
30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets 18-46. 12-50.

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL) HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

Berlins main football team plays home matches at


Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), FC Union is the the impressive Olympiastadion, Germanys second
working mans football team for Berlin, originating in largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games
East Berlin in 1966 and a feared counterpart for the and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was
GDRs state-influenced Dynamo club. Union is still founded back in 1892 and is know as the Alte Dame,
fiercely independent, based in their charming An the old lady, witnessing its glory years between 1926
der Alten Frsterei stadium. The club has resisted all and 1931 when it reached the German Championship
commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punkrock finals 6 times, winning it twice. New coach Pal Dardai
legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by somewhat turned the teams fortunes around and
passionate fans. New coach Jens Keller and Felix Kroos Hertha played a great season with a bitter ending - but
from Werder Bremen join this season, but striker Bobby theyll go international now in the EuroLeague.
Wood has been exchangedfor Philipp Hosnier from
Stade Rennes. 28 Aug, 15:30: SC Freiburg
18 Sept, 17:30: FC Schalke 04
15 Aug, 20:15: SG Dynamo Dresden
10 Sept, 13:00: Karlsruher SC QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion),
26 Sept, 20:15: FC St. Pauli Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805
18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets 15-89.
QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten
Frsterei), Kpenick, MS Kpenick, tel. +49 30 656
68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets 14-43.
vine.co/inyourpocket

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 9


Golf in Berlin
With endless forests, lakes and pretty countryside in all
directions, Berlin and the surrounding state of Brandenburg GOLF IN WALL
offer plenty of opportunities to get out of the city and play
some golf in a calm green setting. The gentlemans game
has evolved a lot since the early days, and now is popular
with people from all walks of life. The fall of the Berlin Wall
25 years ago helped open up many new locations to play
the sport outside of the city. Here we list the main courses
in and around Berlin.

GOLF COURSES
The following golf courses all have driving ranges and
practice facilities; many of them offer Early Bird and Twilight
rates too. The reviews list the type of courses, the driving
time from central Berlin, and the greenfee for weekdays/ All golfers are welcome to enjoy the wide fairways at
weekends respectively, and mention when you can book Wall, a calm village north of Berlin. The 18-hole course
online. is suitable for players of all levels, and beginners can
perfect their swing on the 9-hole practise course.
BERLINER GOLF- UND COUNTRY CLUB Situated in the pretty Brandenburger Rhinluchs area
MOTZENER SEE and near to a nature reserve, theres even chance of
18 & 9-holes, 40mins, 68/85.QAm Golfplatz spotting rare birds as you play. 55mins from Berlin
5, Mittenwalde, tel. +49 33 76 95 01 30, www. Mitte; 31, weekends 45.QAm Knigsgraben 1,
golfclubmotzen.de. Wall, tel. +49 33 92 57 11 35, www.golfinwall.de.

GOLF & SPA RESORT SCHLOSS WILKENDORF


2x18-holes, 6-hole practise, 55mins, 60/58, online GOLF SHOPS
booking.QAm Weiher 1, Altlandsberg, tel. +49 3341 33 GOLF BERLIN MITTE
09 60, www.resort-schloss-wilkendorf.com. Large golf shop in the city centre, near Checkpoint Charlie.
QMarkgrafenstr. 58, Mitte, tel. +49 30 28 04 70 70,
GOLFCLUB KALLIN www.golf-berlin-mitte.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
18 & 9-holes, 50mins, 50/70, online booking.QAm Kallin - 18:00. Closed Sun.
1, Nauen OT Brnicke, tel. +49 332 30 89 40, www.golf-
kallin.de. HOHMANN GOLF
Wide range of golfing equipment and sportswear.
GOLF CLUB PANKOW BERLIN QFranklinstr. 12a-13, tel. +49 30 39 88 72 20, www.
18 & 9-holes and 6 practice holes, 22mins, 46/58. hohmann-golf.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00.
QBlankenburger Pflasterweg 40, tel. +49 30 50 01 94 Closed Sun.
90, www.golf-pankow.de.
BERLINER GOLF CLUB GATOW
GOLFCLUB PRENDEN
18 & 9-holes, 50mins, 45/55.QWaldweg 3, Wandlitz, tel.
+49 333 96 77 90, www.golfplatz-prenden.de.

GOLFCLUB STOLPERHEIDE
2x18 holes, 6 practice holes, 30mins, 50/90, online
booking.QAm Golfplatz 1, Hohen Neuendorf, tel. +49
3303 54 92 14, www.golfclub-stolperheide.de.

GOLF- UND LAND-CLUB BERLIN-WANNSEE


18 & 9-holes, 30mins, 120/100; weekends only with a One of the oldest clubs in Germany, the British Golf
member.QGolfweg 22, tel. +49 30 806 70 60, www. Club Gatow was founded in 1969, linked at the time
wannsee.de. to the Allied Forces, and independent after their
retreat in 1994. The course was expanded from 9 to
SPORTING CLUB BERLIN SCHARMTZELSEE 18 holes in 2001 to make it viable for the future. 18
3x18-holes, 60mins, 45/80, online booking.QParkallee holes and 6 practise holes, 35mins, 60/80, online
3, Bad Saarow, tel. +49 3363 16 33 00, www.sporting- booking.QSparnecker Weg 100, tel. +49 30 365 00
club-berlin.de. 06, www.golfclubgatow.de.

10 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Galleries & Exhibitions

Graffiti on Berlins East Side Gallery

Berlins museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN
perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects
closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the using old techniques, especially the wetplate method
decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos
artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery
in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos,
nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few and have one made.
of Berlins many excellent galleries and exhibitions. QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49
152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com.
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
This museum for modern art, photography, architecture, SAMMLUNG BOROS
and artist archives concentrates a century worth of A former bunker holds the private art gallery of
creativity forged in Berlin between 1880 and 1980. advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who
Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New live on top of the absurd structure. Its full of wonderful
Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and
city. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly filling up a
George Grosz, Hannah Hch and Wolf Vostell.QG4, Alte room. Tours only, book well in advance.
Jakobstrae 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, QReinhardstrae 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65,
tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de. www.sammlung-boros.de.

C/O BERLIN KNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES


Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been
Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann Knig,
exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current 'Genesis' the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background for
exhibition of striking nature photos by Sebastio Salgado is though-provoking art.
not to be missed. QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstrae 118-121, tel. +49 30 26
QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62, 10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de.
www.co-berlin.org.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 11
Culture & Events
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets at the venue.QF3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
- and an annual cultural budget of over 900 million to Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of de. Tickets 10-99.
matches played year-round.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboims award-winning
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
West Berlins 1960s opera building with its excellent Unter den Linden are completed.QC3, Bismarckstrae
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances. 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB3, 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets 14-220.
Bismarckstrae 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from 16. SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
KOMISCHE OPER This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlins roaring 20s.
buildings monumental neo-baroque main hall survived Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic box so that he could watch his favourite operetta The
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF3, from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays,
Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 concerts and musicals.QF3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte,
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets 9-150. MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets 21-79.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Franzsischer Dom BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins most spectacular The Berlin Residence Orchestra consists of well-known
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, musicians, who interpret baroque and classic opera with a
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a keen sense of the compositions from that era. The result
is an extraordinary concert event, with musical highlights
presented true to the original style and aristocratic sound.
EVENT TICKETS Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlotten-
burg castle, and a dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB3,
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department tel. +49 30 25 810 350, www.residenzkonzerte.berlin.
stores) and online. Dinner 18:00, concert 20:00. Tickets 29-127.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
BLUE MAN GROUP
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped,
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also with many new sketches and elements.QE4, Marlene
at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13, Mitte.QC4, Harden- Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
bergstrae 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologis- 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00;
cher Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket. Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from 69.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pick- ASK THE CONCIERGE
up.QH4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU Gr-
litzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36. Berlins top hotels all have concierges that are there
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. to make the guests lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-lan- Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
guage service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs. be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
papagena.de. of their jackets.

12 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events
tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.
VENUE LIST BERLIN Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Tickets 20-55.
AD ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstrae 101-102,
WINTERGARTEN VARIT
tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.
One of Berlins famed variety theatres was revived here as a
AN - ALTE NATIONALGALERIE, Bodestrae 1-3, dinner theater. Seated around tables, youll enjoy a show with
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the
HX HUXLEYS NEUE WELT, Hasenheide 108-114, show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during
tel. +49 30 627 93 20, www.huxleysneuewelt.com. the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE4,
KI KINDL-BHNE WUHLHEIDE, An der Potsdamer Strae 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae,
Wuhlheide 187, tel. +49 30 530 79 530, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows
www.wuhlheide.de. Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets 37,20-70,20.
LI LIDO, Cuvrystrae 7, tel. +49 30 69 56 68 40,
www.lido-berlin.de. THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE
MA MERCEDES-BENZ ARENA, Mercedes-Platz Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. Theres lots
1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; its get-
www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de ting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres.
MG MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
Niederkirchnerstrae 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
www.gropiusbau.de. around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance
company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.
PH PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
TD TEMPODROM, Mckernstrae 10, tel. +49 30 ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN
69 53 38 85, www.tempodrom.de. Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not,
WB WALDBHNE, Glockenturmstrae 1, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the
www.waldbuehne-berlin.de. little black boxs stage.QF5, Fidicinstrae 40, Kreuzberg,
MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@
etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets 14-18.
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. TIPI SHOW: CABARET
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
revues in town.QF3, Friedrichstrae 107, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.show-
palace.eu. Tickets 18-106.

HINTERM HORIZONT
The musical based on the songs of German rock legend
Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free
portable translator device (book in advance), international
visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. Behind the
horizon is an East-West love story set in Berlin: a West
German rock singer falls for an East Berlin beauty, who spies
Jan Wirdeier
on him for the Stasi in order to save her brother. Years later, in
a reunited Germany, they piece together their history.QE4, The incredible story of Berlins wild 1920s/30s amazes
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage Theater am Potsdamer visitors. Relive the atmosphere of the era at Tipi am
Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, Kanzleramt at the musical version of Cabaret, made
www.stage-entertainment.de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, famous in the 1972 film with Liza Minelli. The show
Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets 38-97. is fabulous, a bit naughty and full of fun - and even if
several of the songs are translated into German (English
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT notes are available) its easy to follow the story. With
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin, seats from only 20 its a must-see if youre in Berlin and
the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening interested in the 1920s revue show scene.
in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before 13 JULY 4 SEPTEMBER. TIPI AM KANZLERAMT,
the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then its over to Groe Querallee, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50,
the artists featured that night to entertain the audience. www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.
QE3, Groe Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag,
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 13
Culture & Events
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB
CINEMAS Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth
look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaies show How to become
films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU a Berliner in one hour.QG2, Schnhauser Allee 184,
(original version with German/English subtitles) and Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49
OF or OV (original version); DF means German version. 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets 5-16.
Shows Tue-Sun.
ADRIA
The film Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB
old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30. Quatsch is the delicious German word for nonsense,
QSchlostrae 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, and theres plenty of it in the shows held in the
tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German,
7,40-9,40. but look out for special guests and the regular English-
language Strictly Stand Up nights. Drinks and snacks like
BABYLON MITTE nachos and hot dogs are available.QF3, Friedrichstr.
A 1920s filmhouse with a great program, but beware 107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00
of dubbed films. The building itself is a example of New 09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets 25-35.
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent Shows Thu-Sun.
films accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG2, Rosa-
Luxemburg-Strae 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg- SCHAUBHNE
Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. Set inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically and
Tickets 7. socially engaged repertoire of this venerable ensemble
theatre ranges from classics to contemporary plays,
CENTRAL KINO and regularly travels abroad, giving famed directors like
Art-house films and mini film fests take place in this Thomas Ostermeier, Falk Richter and Katie Mitchell and
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruffy actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina Hoss the chance to shine
courtyard.QG2, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS abroad. Every month, several shows have English and/or
Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www. French surtitles. Theres a good theatre caf with drinks
kino-central.de. Tickets 6,50, Tue, Wed 5,50. and simple meals too.QB4, Kurfrstendamm 153,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL 23, www.schaubuehne.de. Tickets 7-47.
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original FILM FESTIVALS
cinema has Germanys widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version. Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,
QE4, Potsdamer Strae 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center), Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
www.cinestar.de. Tickets 6-13.
Film festivals in August-September 2016:
HACKESCHE HFE 20 Aug: Long Night of Film Festivals, Zukunft
Mainly shows foreign films in their original language. Ostkreuz, Laskerstr. 5, www.festiwelt-berlin.de
QG2, Rosenthaler Strae 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher 17-28 Aug: Fantasy Filmfest, Cinestar, www.
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe. fantasyfilmfest.com
org. Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50. 7-11 Sept: Favourites Film Festival, Kulturfabrik
Moabit, Lehrter Str. 35, www.fffberlin.de
SPUTNIK Sept 2015: Trash FF, www.trashfilmfestival.de
Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie films,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In 7-10 Sept: Pool Dance FF, Dock 11, www.pool-festival.de
a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a 14-18 Sept: Down Under Australian FF, Kino
bit dicey working your way to the theater, but its Moviemento, www.downunderberlin.de
safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the 14-18 Sept: REC Youth FF, ufaFabrik, www.
furniture.QG5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU jugendmedienfestival.de
Sdstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino. 28 Sept - 2 Oct: Uranium FF, Kulturbrauerei, www.
com. Tickets 5-6,5. uraniumfilmfestival.org

14 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events
CLASSICAL MUSIC DEUTSCHE OPER
3 Sept, 19:00
Symphonieorchester des Bayerischen Rundfunks Berlins famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back
Conductor: Daniel Harding; Works by Wolfgang Rihm into its home theatre after extensive renovations this
PH winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one
of their performances. Several shows have English-
4 Sept, 19:00 language subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see
The John Wilson Orchestra and special guests the website for details. The highlights of Berlins famous
Conductor: John Wilson; A Celebration of Classic MGM Film Deutsche Oper orchestra this season are:
Musicals 2,4,5,6 Sept: Romo et Juliette
PH 3 Sept: Season Opening
7 Sept: Special concert
5 Sept, 19:00 9,11,17 Sept: Carmen, Bizet
Danish String Quartett 10,18 Sept: The Barber of Seville, Rossini
Works by Nrgrd, Shostakovitch and Beethoven 16,21,24 Sept: A masked ball, Verdi
PH 25 Sept: Cos fan tutte, Mozart
30 Sept: Symphony Concert, Mahler, Shostakovich
6 Sept, 20:00
Mnchner Philharmoniker DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstrae 35, tel.
Conductor: Valery Gergiev; Works by Ustwolskaja and +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
Shostakovitch
PH

7 Sept, 20:00 8 Sept, 20:00


Orchester der Deutschen Oper Berlin Konzerthausorchester Berlin, Julia Fischer (violin)
Conductor: Donald Runnicles; Works by Langgaard and Conductor: Ivn Fischer; Works by Henze and Bruckner
Wagner PH
PH

July 13. September 4. 2016


Between Kanzleramt and Haus der Kulturen der Welt
Bus 100: Platz der Republik, S-Bahn: Hbf, Brandenburger Tor
Tickets 030. 39 06 65 50 // www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 15


Culture & Events
10 Sept, 19:00
DIE MULTIMEDIA-AUSSTELLUNG Berliner Philharmoniker
THE MULTIMEDIA EXHIBITION Conductor: Andris Nelsons; Works by Debussy, Varse and
Berlioz
PH
4 11 Sept, 20:00
Rabatt* Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Martin
Grubinger (percussion)
Conductor: Jakub Hrusa; Works by Ligeti, Neuwirth and
Dvork
PH

13 Sept, 20:00
Orquesta Sinfnica Simn Bolvar, Jean-Yves
Thibaudet (piano)
Conductor: Gustavo Dudamel; Works by Villa-Lobos and
Messiaen
PH

14 Sept, 20:00
Bayerisches Staatsorchester, Frank Peter
Zimmermann (violin)
Conductor: Kirill Petrenko; Works by Ligeti, Bartk and Strauss
ALTE MNZE MOLKENMARKT 2 BERLIN MITTE PH
U2 KLOSTERSTRASSE
6.7. - 30.10.2016 Tgl. 10-20 Uhr
www.boschalive.com www.ticketmaster.de
15 & 16 Sept, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Laila Josefowicz (violin)
*Gltig fr Erw./ Erm., nicht mit anderen Ermigungen kombinierbar
Conductor: John Adams; Works by Adams
PH

BOSCH - VISIONS ALIVE 16 Sept, 18:30


Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
Much of the life of the medieval artist Hieronymus Conductor: Frank Strobel; Music for Eisensteins Ivan The
Bosch is a mystery. He was born in the Dutch town Terrible
of Den Bosch around 1450 and had a succesful career
as painter, but only 20 paintings remain. In fact, 17 Sept, 19:00
only the year of his death, 500 years ago, is factually Ensemble Resonanz, Tabea Zimmermann (viola)
known, and celebrated across the world this year with Conductor: Enno Poppe; Works by Schubert, Poppe and
special exhibitions. In Berlin, the fantastic multimedia Saunders
exhibition Hieronymus Bosch Visions Alive has an PH
introduction hall with background information and
interactive sceens... and then submerges visitors in 19 & 20 Sept, 20:00
Boschs vivid images with details of his most important Staatskapelle Berlin
works projected on huge screens in two large halls. Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Elgar
As you sit, stand or comfortably lie in darkness, the PH
walls around show a colourful sequence of magical
animated imagery, set to fitting music. From the 22 & 23 Sept, 20:00
creatures from his 1507 masterpiece Garden of Berliner Philharmoniker
Earthly Delights to lively scenes from medieval hell, Conductor: Daniele Gatti; Works by Honegger, Dutilleux
the 30-minute show - which is played continuously on and Debussy
loop - is ideally seen twice to catch all the marvellous PH
details.
25 Sept, 20:00
Until 30 October. Alte Mnze, Molkenmarkt 2, Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Ton
MU Klosterstr, tel. +49 1745 76 12 46, www.boschalive. Koopman (cembalo), Avi Avital (mandoline)
com. Open 10:00-20:00. Admission 12,50/9,50; 4 off Conductor: Ton Koopman; Works by Rebel, Hummel,
with the advert in this guide. Rameau, Vivaldi, Bach and Hndel
PH
16 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
9 & 10 August, 22:15
LISZT, WAGNER & BALLET Chico Trujillo (world music)
LI
Berlins wonderful open-
air Waldbhne stadium on 13 August, 19:30
hosts the annual West- Cro (Rock/Pop)
Eastern Divan Orchestra KI
concert on 13 August.
The orchestra of young 16 August; 20:00
Arab and Israeli musicians Morrissey (Alternative)
was set up in 1999 by TD
renowned conductor
Daniel Barenboim and 16 August, 20:00
the late philosopher Rihanna (RnB)
Promo Edward Said as a project
MA
against ignorance. This year they play works by Liszt
and Wagner. The Admiralspalast theatre hosts the 30 August, 20:00
Malakhov & Friends ballet gala on 2 and 3 September, Mogwai (Pop)
featuring ballet stars such as Diana Vishneva and Lucia AD
Lacarra performing solos and pas de deux from Carmen
Suite and Le Corsaire. For more information and tickets 11 & 12 Sept, 19:30
see www.semmel.de. King Crimson (Rock)
AD

26 Sept, 20:00 26 Sept, 19:30


Daegu Symphony Orchestra, Hae Sun Paik Nickelback (Rock)
(piano) MA
Conductor: Julian Kovatchev; Works by Jin and Tchaikovsky
PH

27 Sept, 20:00
Junge Sinfonie Berlin, Annette Dasch (soprano) DAS WALDBHNENKONZERT
Conductor: Marc Piollet; Works by Strauss, von Weber and
Mahler
PH
08/13/16
9:00 pm

28 Sept, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
Daniel BARENBOIM
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Beethoven West-Eastern DIVAN Orchestra
Martha ARGERICH
PH

29 & 30 Sept, 20:00 Franz LISZT


Programm
Berliner Philharmoniker, Matthias Goerne Richard WAGNER
(baritone)
Conductor: Manfred Honeck; Works by Dvork, Strauss and
Schubert
PH MALAKHOV
CONCERTS
1 August, 19:30
& FRIENDS
CLASSIC & MODERN
Sting (Pop)
WB 09/02+03/2016
Admiralspalast
7 August, 20:00 8:00 pm
Ministry (Metal)
HX Berlin

TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 17


Culture & Events
S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I T O R S
EXHIBITIONS
Until 7 August MG
The Maya - language of beauty
The Maya are one of the oldest cultures IN the world. This
exhibition tells the story of their great artistic expression
with a collection of about 300 works of art, including many
Mexican national treasures focusing on the basic aspect
SUMMER SPECIAL of the pre-Hispanic art: the body.
ONLY TILL 28 AUGUST
Until 18 Sept MG
Thomas Struth. Nature and politics.
The Thomas Struth exhibition in the Gropius-Bau shows
35 large-format photographs from 2007 to 2015 by one
of the most famous photographers of our time. His photos
cover industrial production facilities, operating rooms and
research laboratories, as well as everyday architecture or
adventure parks.

From 5 August AN
An Urban Landscape A 360 Panorama of Rome
by Friedrich Loos
Landscape painting underwent a boom around 1800 and
included urban space as a motif. Rome with its ancient ruins
the soul variety show and Mediterranean light offered inspiration for city views.
Central to this cabinet exhibition is a five-part panorama of
Rome painted by Graz-born painter Friedrich Loos in 1850.

WINTERGARTEN:
ALL NIGHT LONG & RELAX
A roaring Dance through
Soul-History.
Berliner Kurier

FROM 7 SEPTEMBER 2016

Jule Felice Frommelt


The Wintergartens current All Night Long show features
a live band playing evergreens from Ray Charles to
Whitney Houston, and fabulous international artists who
enchant the audience with their performances and own
choreographies. Rhythm & Blues, Jazz and Funk provide
this show with its unmistakable groove. From 7 September,
80S HITS & ACROBATICS the new show Relax combines dazzling acrobatics with a
live band playing the best hits of the 1980s by Roxette,
Depeche Mode, David Bowie and others.
WINTERGARTEN VARITQPotsdamer Strae
Potsdamer Strae 96 D-10785 Berlin
96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58
Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433
84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
www.wintergarten-berlin.de
20:00, Sun 18:00.

18 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


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Mitte
MUTTER HOPPE
Restaurants & Cafs Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. Youll find the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
GERMAN historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
ALPENSTUECK meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, sides not served at other German restaurants, including
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and towards the Spree.QG3, Rathausstrae 21, Mitte,
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30-24:00. .
palate.QF2, Gartenstrae 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, TEGB
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00-01:00. . TUGBS RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same 1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next creations, including local favourites such as Slze (cold
door to Joseph. Its named after a prolific Jewish writer knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage.
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can
in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of shake up a great cocktail.QG3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10,
Berlins nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
Flammkuchen pies are served, and its a great place for berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00.
a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Variet, EGBW
opposite.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 75, Tiergarten, MU
Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph- ROTISSERIE WEINGRN
roth-diele.de. Open 10:00-24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was
TENGBSW once Berlins old town, Weingrns fresh and simple interior
is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as
MAXIMILIANS Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is
So you always wondered what Bavaria is like the beer, the stocked with wines from the owners own vineyards in the
food, Oktoberfest but you only made it as far as Berlin? Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the Spree canal.
No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic QG4, Gertraudenstrae 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt,
and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stones throw from tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserie-weingruen.de.
Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. . TUGBSW
the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes
such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
QF4, Friedrichstrae 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
Open 11:00 - 24:00. . UGBS atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF3, Tucholskystrae 48, Mitte, MU
BACK TO SCHOOL Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00-24:00. .
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district TUNBS
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. Its the
watering hole for adult students from all around the STNDIGE VERTRETUNG
world who are learning German at the GLS language Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when
school, in the same complex. Theyre greatly helped by they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood hangout (named after the West-German embassy in
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politicians
meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, Klsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 food as well.QF3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U
27, www.gls-berlin.de. Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. . B
20 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
WEIHENSTEPHANER
The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a hey, this FOOD WITH A VIEW
is Germany! experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages).
The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG3,
Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de.
Open 11:00-01:00. . TUEGB

ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-
stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-
nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. . E
PANORAMA CAF
ZUM NUSSBAUM The 1930s-style caf at the top of the popular Potsdamer
What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming Platz viewing point has large windows and an open ter-
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used race with great views over Berlin, and serves coffee, cakes
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. and other snacks.QE4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons dont care for panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00-
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities 17:00. Tower admission 6,50/5, family ticket 15,50.
with curious translations, such as brown rolls with dripping.
QG3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. . GB KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
@InYourPocket placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
curries are rich and buttery.QF3, Oranienburger Strae
ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97,
Berlins oldest restaurant doesnt lie on the tourist path, and www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
maybe thats why German leaders bring visiting heads of 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. . AB
state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded.
Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schrder MONSIEUR VUONG
brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
Eisbein, in 2003.QG3, Waisenstrae 14-16, Mitte, MU restaurant in Mitte. There are only five dishes and two daily
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz. specials, but theyre so delicious youll be ordering a second
de. Open 12:00-01:00. Closed Sun. . GBS bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gi
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. Youll have to fight
the ber-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesnt take
ASIAN reservations.QG2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 46, Mitte,
JOLLY MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . S
S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and
modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and VAN LONG
Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all
duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but theres parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options
also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the
meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF3, specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling
Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.
+49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www. QReinhardtstrae 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
restaurant-jolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. . AUBS 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 21
Mitte
(as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep
AUSTRIAN carpets and a fireplace.QF3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte,
BRECHT KELLER MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00.
making do with East German ingredients, so though . PAG hh
decent, its not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) thats famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold LUTTER & WEGNER
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined on Gendarmenmarkt. Theres a warren of rooms in which
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
where the couple are buried.QF2, Chausseestrae 125, and you can trust the national committee that dubbed
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43, the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF3,
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. . B Charlottenstrae 56, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel.
+49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00.
Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the
FINE DINING Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. . AB
AIGNER
One of Berlins best places to eat, Aigner is truly PARIS-MOSKAU
international, as its name, concept and all the old Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station -
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese caf that on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced positioned between new government offices and hotels.
fresh from the market.QF3, Franzsische Strae 25, Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
Mitte, MU Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
. TUGBSW tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, theres a
lunch menu as well.QE3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
BORCHARDT MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
Borchardt didnt have to invest much to make a good first paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the buildings Sun 18:00-24:00. . A
original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The money and
creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up VAU
with a different menu each day to keep its regular clientele Its easy to spell and rhymes with wow, and the latter is
surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes the word-of-mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleebergs
here are delectable.QF3, Franzsische Strae 47, Mitte, restaurant fully booked for years. Using many products
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www. from the Berlin area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows
borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. . GB his mentor Josef Viehhausers rule: never more than three
products on a plate.QF3, Jgerstrae 54/55, Mitte, MU
FACIL Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 97 30, www.vau-
At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare . PAG h
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
CASINO
retracts.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 3, Tiergarten, MS/U SPIELBANK BERLIN
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Closed Sat, Sun. . UGBW h Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
FISCHERS FRITZ the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
The restaurants name comes from a tongue-twister and a tour including game instructions.QE4, Marlene-
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate. Dietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission 2,50. Minimum age
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei
22 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
VOX
Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London, JAPANESE
and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, COCOLO
minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
Between the live jazz in the adjoining lounge and the restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
so dont drop your sushi in your lap. The Vox bar is open and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of
from 18:00 and closes when guests decide. The kitchen salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have
is open until 24:00. Breakfast on Saturday continues an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG2, Gipsstrae 3,
until 11:00 and on Sunday until 14:00.QE4, Marlene- Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, 84. Open 18:00-24:00. . GB
tel. +49 30 25 53 17 02, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com.
Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 14:30; 18:30 - 24:00. . SUSHI CIRCLE
PAEGB This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If youre not quick enough to grab the pieces passing by
INDIAN on the bars conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle around
AAPKA again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle to whip
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, a request off for you.QF3, Franzsische Strae 48, Mitte,
Aapka offers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 650 60, www.
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-23:00. .
young Prenzl Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, SPANISH
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-01:00. . YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
B Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-
sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff
is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools
INTERNATIONAL and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point
NOLAS AM WEINBERG from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The Hackescher Hfe.QG3, Rosenthaler Strae 37, Mitte,
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. . PAB
St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order
meals until midnight.QG2, Veteranenstrae 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www. CAFS
nola.de. Open 10:00-01:00. . TUGBS BARCOMIS DELI
Barcomis is well known for its house-roasted coffee and
REINHARDS luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
Reinhards friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
in no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light meringue cake, devils food cake, pecan pie and other
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG3, cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also
Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeersterei
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. -. outlet (Bergmannstrae 21) has fresh coffee.QF5,
TGBS Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de.
TRAUBE Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. . TGBS
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, The
Grape serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent SOPHIENECK
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross- A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland the most charming cafs in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
or compose their own menus, with or without wines. trendification, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF2, of art nouveau and poster art. The menu offers delicious
Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. Central European fare, accompanied by an international wine
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00- list.QG2/3, Groe Hamburger Strae 37, Mitte, MU
15:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. . Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.sophieneck-
TGB berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 23
Mitte
THE DIGITAL EATERY lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsofts very first its a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
caf showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (8,90), pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG2,
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel.
devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
play Xbox games.QF3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. Open 24/7. . TUENGBSW
+49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Manns forlorn offspring,
Nightlife Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it
often has a DJ, no one dances here. Its a setting for making
stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF2,
BARS Novalisstrae 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
AUFSTURZ 30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable CLUBS
and the place looks good, with changing modern art GRNER SALON
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
Strae haunt.QF3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte, MS stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@ like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG2, Volksbhne,
aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
EASTWOOD BERLIN-MITTE Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
A high-end lounge bar and weekend club nearby
Gendarmenmarkt, with a glamorous modern interior by KAFFEE BURGER
local designer Emell Gk Che, a regularly changing cocktail The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
menu, and champagne. The club part is open on weekend decades of the alternative scenes smoke and its stuck-in-
nights, when DJs pump out house, lounge, electro and the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
jazz sounds - use the VIP table service to make the night Kaminers wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
complete.QRosmarinstr. 8, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 67 90 like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
54, reservierung@eastwood-berlin.de, www.eastwood- DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
berlin.de. Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Club open Fri/ QG2, Torstrae 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz,
Sat 23:00-06:00. W tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RMSCHRMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher ROTER SALON
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters This place probably began with a faded elegance, but lets
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied say its just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge,
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG2,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on Volksbhne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.roter-
the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG3, salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de, www.eschschloraque.de. WEEK-END CLUB
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
MEIN HAUS AM SEE agency specialising in saying no) on the corner of Otto-
Its all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the Braun-Strae.QG3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
My Lake House makes it very easy with its large slope of Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open Thu-
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture Sat 23:00-04:00.
24 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
Schtzenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte Anfahrt | Directions
(Nhe Checkpoint Charlie) U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM


ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.

NEUE SYNAGOGE
PUBS The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
KILKENNY IRISH PUB eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
station offer more than enough space for natives and 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and German thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.QG3, whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www. to the experience.QF3, Oranienburger Strae 28-30,
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00-

Sightseeing 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct


until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat
closed. Admission 3,50/3.
LANDMARKS POTSDAMER PLATZ
BRANDENBURGER TOR Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
Berlins landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot were demolished to make way for the Walls death strip.
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the The most popular public space and architectural attraction
Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades. is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
Berliners celebrated the Walls fall in 1989 by standing on it roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF3, architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor. Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR


Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstrae 47 / corner Zimmerstrae | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 25


Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers NEUES MUSEUM
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, in 2009, the New Museum is new again and is full of
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
well as their cross-overs into modernity. Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
Czanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
some of the artists whose works hang around this One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure considered to be degenerate art by the Nazis.QG3,
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
battered colonnade.QG3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 -
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www. 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5. PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
ALTES MUSEUM renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
This neoclassic building by Prussias star architect the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG3, Am
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG3, Am +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.

NIKOLAIVIERTEL Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits


Berlins tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, related to Berlin.QG3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de.
Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt
along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins REICHSTAG
750th birthday in the area in which the fishermens The name together with its monumental size make most
settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt people associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary
Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
concrete facades that the GDR government could afford. hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire
The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstrae, theres which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim- Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps

26 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Mitte
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting MEMORIALS
the buildings history circle the rim above the parliament FHRERBUNKER
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler
panoramic view from the top. Its best to book an entry lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the to the end of In den Ministergrten, off Ebertstrae. A
road. Photo ID is required.QF3, Platz der Republik 1, parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/ complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop during the complexs construction in 1988-89. The bunker
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free. the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstrae.QF3, In den
Ministergrten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
CHURCHES
BERLINER DOM vine.co/inyourpocket
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern OF EUROPE
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
exhibit rooms and good views.QG3, Am Lustgarten, estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, serves as Germanys national memorial to those victims. The
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of
20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission 7/4. 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating
an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The
DEUTSCHER DOM memorial has an undergound information centre which is
The baroque German Church from 1701 was completed not suitable for children.QF3, Cora-Berliner-Strae 1,
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36,
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.stiftung-
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free MUSEUMS
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking BLACK BOX COLD WAR
is required for individual visitors.QF3, Gendarmenmarkt The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www. the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/ between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.
FRANZSISCHER DOM QF4, Friedrichstrae 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkts 71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and Admission 5/3,50.
similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the According to the myth, currywurst is Berlins very own
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
French only), dedicated to the thousands of French popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. found at train stations and street corners across the city.
Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
metres above street level, with great views all around. culinary creation. Theres a shop with sausage accessories
QF3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. and you can taste currywurst too.QF4, Schtzenstrae
+49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.
12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
Admission 2/1, viewing balcony 2.50/1. 11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 27
Mitte
asisi Panorama Berlin Tickets and Service
Friedrichstrae 205 +49(0)341.35 55 34 0
10117 Berlin service@asisi.de
Checkpoint Charlie

Free Guided Tours Opening hours


Thursdays 11.30 a.m. daily from 10 a.m.
in English for Berlin to 6 p.m.
discoverers

Getting there facebook.com/


U6 Kochstrae asisi.berlin
U2 Stadtmitte www.asisi.de
M29 Kochstrae

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN


asisi.de In cooperation with

DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN GEDENKSTTTE BERLINER MAUER


Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war The excellent national memorial site for the divided
building on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Germany has a documentation centre covering the
Daimler companys art collection is presented in four Berlin Walls history in text, slides and dramatic film
well-curated exhibitions per year. The collection has footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the
mainly abstract artworks from the 20th century until street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the
now, and a few of the larger sculptures are on permanent Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of
display in the streets around the museum.QE4, Alte death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with
Potsdamer Strae 5, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the
20, www.sammlung.daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot
Admission free. of a church demolished to make way for the border
defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more
DDR MUSEUM open-air exhibitions.QF2, Bernauer Strae 111 & 119,
Rather than concentrating on the Wall, state terror and Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66,
other dark aspects of the East German regime, this infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-
popular museum presents a glimpse of daily life under mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00, Nov-Mar
totalitarianism. A wide selection of GDR-era objects is on 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open
display in several themed areas, including media, fashion, 24hrs). Admission free.
education, work, family and shopping. You can hang on
the couch, touch the clothes and sit in a Trabant.QG3, GEMLDEGALERIE
Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 1, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, Berlins largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works
tel. +49 30 847 12 37 31, post@ddr-museum.de, www. spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters
ddr-museum.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-22:00. include Drer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians
Admission 6/4. are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch
rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the worlds
largest Rembrandt collection.QE4, Matthikirchplatz
Get the In Your Pocket 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266
42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum.
City Essentials App Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/4.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM HAMBURGER BAHNHOF


The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century Berlins wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive converted train station. Its well worth a visit by those
German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of
building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germanys animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by
history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel
the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s
an audio tour set for 3 or join the English-language collection.QE2, Invalidenstrae 50-51, Mitte, MS/U
highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF3, Unter den Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk-
Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 berlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 -
40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 8/4. 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Under 18 free. Admission 10/5.
28 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
KUNSTHALLE
The private collection of the Deutsche Bank contains PANORAMAPUNKT
works by world-renowned contemporary artists; regularly
changing temporary exhibitions show selected works in this
space on Unter den Linden designed by Richard Gluckman.
The annual artist of the year exhibition focuses on one young
artist. Theres a nice ArtCaf and shop too. There are free tours
every day, several on Monday between 11:00-19:00.QF3,
Unter den Linden 13-15, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae,
tel. +49 30 202 09 30, www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.
com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 4/3, Monday &
under 18 free. Free guided tours at 18:00.

MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM


A much-discussed exhibition of real, plastinated human
bodies, aiming to show visitors how their bodies and Landesarchiv Berlin
individual organs work, how we can live healthier and longer, PANORAMAPUNKT
and what disease really looks like.QPanoramastrasse 1a It takes just 20 seconds on Europes fastest elevator to
(Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, www.memu.berlin. Open get shot up to Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 14/12. 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoffs magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
MUSEUM FR FILM UND FERNSEHEN New Yorks skyscraping glory days but also resembles
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the
personalities that gave it glamour and style came from top floors theres a short film and an exhibition about
Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall-
with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set divided wasteland and back again within a generation.
designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and The caf and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views
exhibits on Leni Riefenstahls shooting of Olympia (1936) of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
seen-that film buffs. The museum ends with special effects Tiergarten park.QE4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
and science fiction.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar
300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 10:00-18:00. Admission 6,50/5, family ticket 15,50.
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission 6/4,5.

MUSEUM FR NATURKUNDE VIEWPOINTS


All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world certainly brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline. The
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in
famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
the primates hall.QF2, Invalidenstrae 43, Mitte, MU QG3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@mfn- www.tv-turm.de. Admission 12/8.
berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
Shopping
WALL PANORAMA
The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an ALEXA CENTRE
incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafs. Theres a
in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has captured the massive kids area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes exhibition.QG3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
of life, on both sides of the divide. English tour Thu 11:30. Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
QF4, Friedrichstrae 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mid-July to mid-Sept lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-
10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 10/8. 19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 29
Mitte
GUDRUN SJDN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjdn in a
The best Berlin bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. Theres two
floors of clothing and a cozy caf corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.
has to offer de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

in one great app RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD


The flagship store of Germanys famous Ritter Sport
chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
own chocolate bar.QFranzsische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Hotels
OVER 200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles 240
- 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478, 78 suites 531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh

HILTON
Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants

City Essentials and exotic spa treatments.QF2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte,


MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.
com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
Only our favourite places PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh

Works ofine, incl. maps HOTEL DE ROME


Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
Free download magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
Incl. dozens of other cities the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
www.iyp.me/app derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103 doubles
395 - 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).

MARRIOTT
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
30 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Mitte
wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlins finest hotels.QE4, Inge-Beisheim-
Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22
360 PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAF
00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles
159 - 219, 350 doubles 159 - 219, 9 suites 350 -
1200, 80 executive room 199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh

WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy
of the Adlons marble staircase situated in the lobby, a
round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler
service.QF3, Friedrichstrae 158-164, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.
com, www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles
136 - 350, 273 doubles 136 - 375, suites 379 - 930, 15
junior suites 279 - 565, 1 presidential suite 986 - 1930).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
hhhhh
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and long-
term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstrae 185-
190 are close to all the action.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de.
157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh

75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstrae 122) has a garden with a lawn and
ition
goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF2, Exhib
Tieckstrae 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 Views
lin
284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond. of Ber
de. 24 rooms (singles 95 - 155, doubles 125 - 225).
AG

PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ


Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys
third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms
are all renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and
ironing board. By far the best choice for the direction- Opening hours:
impaired.QG3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Platform: 10:00-20:00
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@ Caf: 11:00-19:00
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.com. Shorter opening hours during winter
1012 rooms (318 singles 89 - 125, 671 doubles
89 - 125, 23 suites 130 - 185). Breakfast extra. Potsdamer Platz 1 www.panoramapunkt.de
POARFGKD hhhh
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 31
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Charlottenburg & the West
Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD5,
Winterfeldstrae 56, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. -. UNGBS

KNESE Zillemarkt
Alt-Berliner, traditional Old Berlin cuisine, is on offer at rustic
Knese. Try the Knigsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and SCHNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled
prices. Theres also a selection of international meals and tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz.
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with
good South-African wine.QC4, Knesebeckstrae 63, pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Omas Rote
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, Grtze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . TB warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-
Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD5, Motzstrae 61,
RENGER-PATZSCH Schneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, www.
kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and schoeneberger-weltlaterne.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,
the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes Sat 17:00 - 02:00. . TEB
such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared
pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen.
QD5, Wartburgstrae 54, Schneberg, MU Eisenacher
Strae, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com.
Open 18:00 - 23:30. .

RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN
A stones throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and
several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an
excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small
Jgerstbchen room and a large 80-seat Biergarten thats
delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German
and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products.
Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of
the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB3, Schlossstr.
64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49
30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de.
Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00.

Local cuisine
Wartburgstrae 54
Berlin - Schneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
Renger-Patzsch

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 33


GEBE42_RengerPatzsch_ad.indd 5 26.11.2009 12:44:07
Charlottenburg & the West
ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD4,
Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN
Suksan OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
ZILLEMARKT seasonal ingredients, often from the owners home town,
Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
for his charming portraits of Berlins lower classes, stroll or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
you can down a Zillebru beer in the glass-ceilinged are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
bar.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg, MS spots.QC4, Kantstrae 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. . VGB
- 24:00. TB
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
JJ
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
Zillemarkt
Cafhaus Restaurant
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB3,
Over 100 years of Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-
comfort and quality Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . TVGBS
Traditional German cuisine
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieters
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who cant
move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying
at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far
East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.
QD4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.
de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . G h

HUGOS
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00 The InterContinentals Michelin-starred French restaurant on
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00 the 14th floor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer
Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeiers cuisine is equally dazzling; expect
Tel. 030-881 70 40 subtle creations blending fine flavours in the lightest of dishes.
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg QD4, Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
www.zillemarkt.de Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGW h
34 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
FRENCH
LE PETIT ROYAL SUKSAN
TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but theres great steak
too. And its no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The Sawatdi Kap welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin,
QC4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de. combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness,
and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dis-
hes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo
INTERNATIONAL roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us
DIEKMANN take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC4, Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-
restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
. UGB

DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlins roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, 100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-
THAI RESTAURANT
dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. . UGB & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

Get the In Your Pocket ORIGINA


L
City Essentials App THAI FOO
D
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Kudamm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55, Charlottenburg,

SUKSAN
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. -.

EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space Ansbacher Strasse 4
only. Every day theres a completely different menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian corner Kurfrstenstrasse
dishes.QC4, Mommsenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MU U - Wittenbergplatz
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn- www.suksan.de
catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
NGS
TEL 030.21 01 86 73
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 35
Charlottenburg & the West
ITALIAN RUSSIAN
FRANCUCCIS SAMOWAR
Francuccis kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home- Berlins oldest Russian restaurant can fittingly be found
made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century.
truffles.QB4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Stroganoff, Odessa
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci. fish soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TVGBSW setting with dark wood, paintings, busts and antiques. For
an extra memorable experience book the 3-course Czar
LA FORCHETTA menu with borscht soup, shashlik, salmon, veal and bliny
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but desserts - or enjoy a tea ceremony with Russian sweets.
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served QLuisenplatz 3, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 341 41 54,
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer, www.restaurant-samowar.de. Open From 11:00.
a romantic terrace is available.QA5, Knigsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. SPANISH
Open 12:00 - 24:00. B EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
ZWLF APOSTEL for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Catalan specialities and theres also tapas if you just want
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here to snack while watching the boulevards shoppers pass
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business by.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg,
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstrae 2, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC4, Bleibtreustrae eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. . B
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. .
TNGBS CAFS
CAF AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
JAPANESE Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
SACHIKO SUSHI renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This caf, restaurant
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve served till 22:00.QD4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten,
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, heres MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, 23:00. -. TUGB
Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi. CAF IM LITERATURHAUS
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
. TGBS polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you dont have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and
ORIENTAL critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that
MAROOUSH are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC4, Fasanenstrae
Egyptian-Oriental opulence with a modern twist. This 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30
restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has decent 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.de,
meze starters and Middel Eastern mains; on Friday and www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. . GB
Saturday the belly-dancers perform to live music.QC4,
Knesebeckstrae 48, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, CAFE KALWIL
tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de. A cosy and straight-friendly caf in gay old Schneberg.
Open 15:00 - 01:00. E Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. Theres fair trade coffee, quality teas,
Read more reviews online: cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.
berlin.inyourpocket.com QD4/5, Motzstrae 30, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. . ABW
36 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Charlottenburg & the West
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone caf. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. . TUGBS

Nightlife
BARS
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesnt take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up,
and quite steady on their feet.QD5, Winterfeldstrae 50,
Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15,
www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.

HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-
berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
WEST BERLIN REVIVAL
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used
by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a
font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals
come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade
wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz
or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and
magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals,
like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until
03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social
arrangement.QC4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-
berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. -. NBSW After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin
found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedchtniskirche stands the gleaming
new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary
Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours
Hotel Bikini Berlin.
Caf im Literaturhaus

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 37


Charlottenburg & the West

401
whiskies

Berlins first English pub since 1976


British and Irish beer on tap
Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre)
mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack
Live Music during winter months
Schlterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00

PUBS SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG


THE HARP The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussias
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of in 1695, todays version, distinguished by its 505-meter
homemade burgers. On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny, and facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790.
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
events to be beamed on screens, and theres quiz nights and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
occasions.QB4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg, resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harp- French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
from 10:00. -. EBW porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
UNION JACK Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar
whisky pub is one of Berlins first true pubs and continues 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys closed. Admission 12/8, New Wing 6/5. Photo permit
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and 3.
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too home made snacks and Walkers
crisps.QC4, Schlterstrae 15, Charlottenburg, MS CHURCHES
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack- GEDCHTNISKIRCHE
berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark re-
19:00. Sun closed. minder of wartime destruction, is West Berlins landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowl-
Sightseeing edgement of Germanys culpability is declared on a
plaque: The tower of the old church serves as a remem-
LANDMARKS
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz
3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49
30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de,
www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00
June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-
16:00. Admission 7/5. Union Jack

38 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


Charlottenburg & the West
brance of Gods judgement, which befell our people dur-
ing the war years. The 1895 church was once a symbol of PARKS AND GARDENS
national pride: even synagogues contributed to its fund- TIERGARTEN
ing. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were complet- waterways is the most genteel of Berlins parks, but its
ed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessule
every week, many of them free.QD4, Breitscheidplatz, (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00- point in the middle of the park. The parks caf and beer
19:00. garden, Caf am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E3/4.
MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM) Hotels
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from OVER 200
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, DAS STUE
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set in the
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix
Closed Wed. Admission free. of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and
many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes
BRHAN MUSEUM peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread
A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful
craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found
so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy in the spa area, and theres the first-class Cinco restaurant.
and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent QD4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz,
collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70
and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter doubles from 200, 20 suites 290-740). PHUF
Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions. GKDCW
QB3, Schlostrae 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-
Charlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehan- INTERCONTINENTAL
museum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
6/4. the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
C/O BERLIN business solutions. After work, theres gourmet food
The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further
Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are relaxation options can be found in the large spa
multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown complex, with several saunas and fitness facilities.QD4,
and renowned photographers. Dont miss the cafe and the Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
museum shop either.QC4, Hardenbergstrae 22-24, Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles 165 -
30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. 350, 498 doubles 170 - 400, 60 suites 215 - 2500).
Admission 10/5. Breakfast extra. PTHAUFLEGBK
DCWhhhhh
MUSEUM FR ASIATISCHE KUNST
Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
Art museum has an impressive permanent collection this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and a swank corner of Kudamm.QC4, Kurfrstendamm
in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. 27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30
Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are 88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts. kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles 265 -
QTakustrae 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470 - 1800).
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. hhhhh
Admission 6/3.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 39
Charlottenburg & the West
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands 150-200
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak Overlooking the Bauhaus museum between
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are Kurfrstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
large.QD4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg, Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, hotel@ with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harrys New York Bar
palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles 200 and a sizeable spa and fitness centre.QD4, Ltzowufer
- 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325, 32 suites 325 - 2150). 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47
PHARUFLGKDChhhhh 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles
from 99, 40 suites from 139). PTHAUFL
SAVOY BERLIN GKDCWhhhhh
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once
made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who
knows who youll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop 75-150
near the clubby Times Bar.QC4, Fasanenstrae 9-10, BERLIN, BERLIN
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
31 10 30, info@hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
125 rooms (45 singles 142 - 222, 62 doubles 152 - 232, Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant
triples 192 - 272, 16 suites 202 - 292). ARFK give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety
Dhhhh of styles. Peace can be found in the summer garden
restaurant.QD4, Ltzowplatz 17, Tiergarten, MU
SOFITEL BERLIN KURFRSTENDAMM Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, info@hotel-berlin.
The 11-story, French-style Sofitel impresses with sleekly de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms (103 singles 100
designed rooms with fine woods, contemporary art - 195, 569 doubles 100 - 245, 29 suites 220 - 900).
and fantastic views from the upper floors. The curved PHARUFLGKDhhhh
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.QC4, Augsburger Strae 41, Charlottenburg, BERLIN PLAZA
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@ The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles 230 - all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
280, doubles 240 - 300, 44 suites 280 - 950). Breakfast and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
extra. traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg, MU
SWISSTEL BERLIN Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles 80 - 150,
are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When youre doubles 79 - 180, triples 105 - 200). HLGKW
done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin
beckons. Youll never want to go home.QC4, Augsburger ELLINGTON HOTEL
Strae 44, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfrstendamm and
+49 30 22 01 00, berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel- named after the American jazz legend, the Ellingtons rooms
berlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles 160 - 310, 219 have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
doubles 160 - 310, 14 suites 310 - 480, 11 junior suite Suites offering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
260 - 410). Breakfast 21. PHARFLGD up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
hhhhh regular jazz brunches.QD4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31
WALDORF ASTORIA 50, contact@ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.
Berlins newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies com. 285 rooms (singles 108 - 238, doubles 118 - 248,
a prime spot near Kurfrstendamm and the Kadewe suites 168 - 428). PJHARUFL K
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, its decorated in lavish Art Deco style, SYLTER HOF
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
and a caf and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650 QD3, Kurfrstenstrae 114-116, Schneberg, MU
wines.QC4, Hardenbergstrae 28, Charlottenburg, Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhof-
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www. berlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from singles 69 - 120, 40 doubles 99 - 180, 40 suites 129
250). PHAUFLGKDCwW - 210). HAGhhh
40 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
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Friedrichshain

Badeschiff with Friedrichshain skyline Arena Berlin

Pretty in Pink or any of the other 20-odd creations.


ASIAN Theres a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup
GLORY DUCK Cake too.QJ4, Krossener Strae 12, Friedrichshain,
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 25 76 86
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with ginger- 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings. TUVNGBSW
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the
vegetarian options. Theres a good selection of drinks and
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by; CAFS
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective KAUFBAR
lines, theres a large harbour scene on one wall and the At this homey caf you can wash down your chocolate
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI4, croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine.
Sonntagstrae 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel. Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go:
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 - the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays.
24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . AUBSW The only thing not for sale in the Buy Bar are their board
games.QJ4, Grtnerstrae 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.
INTERNATIONAL kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 -
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE 24:00. TUNGBSW
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
what more does a meat-lover want? Theres a good MACONDO
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian Macondo was the setting of Garca Mrquez novel 100
options.QI3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful reading caf.
24:00. . TUNGBS Theres old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday
market, good coffee and original South American mate tea,
CUPCAKE BERLIN sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI4,
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together Grtnerstrae 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert Strae, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.
snack with its own caf dedicated to it. Try The King de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat,
cupcake (with Elvis favourite ingredients), the sweet Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
42 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Friedrichshain
BARS MUSEUMS
CRACK BELLMER COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM
A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial The worlds first computer games museum presents six epic
RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking decades of gaming history, including the Giant Joystick,
however; theres film screenings, and a good-sized space Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine and
for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance the Wall of Hardware. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and
at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Strae.QI4, Revaler working classics you can try several games yourself.QI3,
Strae 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese,
www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de.
UNB Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/5.

HABERMEYER DEUTSCH-RUSSISCHES MUSEUM


Like many Berlin bars, Habermeyer recycles the 1970s with In the southeast, the building where Germany signed
its light fixtures and furnishings but it also created its own its surrender on 8 May 1945 now serves as the German-
unusual wall designs. A popular table football and flipper Russian museum. More rooms focus on World War II, but
machine provide distraction from the loud and very varied DJ exhibits include Soviet relations to both East and West
music, though theres no space to dance, but theres free salty Germany and the presence of the war following the war.
snacks to console you.QJ4, Grtnerstrae 6, Friedrichshain, QZwieseler Strae 4, Lichtenberg, MS Karlshorst, tel.
MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 29 77 18 87, www.habermeyer- +49 30 50 15 08 10, www.museum-karlshorst.de. Open
bar.de. Open from 19:00 - open end. UNB 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

STASI MUSEUM
CLUBS East Germanys State Security Service or Stasi was responsible for
BERGHAIN intelligence gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its
A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the own citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and
main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms family of those they wished to keep an eye on. Today, this humble
of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the museum shows the office of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi
queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always minister for 32 years, in its original dull state. Theres a video of him
varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best testifying before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist kitsch,
atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays and many documents in German.QRuschestrae 103, Haus 1,
too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI3/4, Am Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstrae, tel. +49 30 553 68 54,
Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. www.stasimuseum.de. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 -
+49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 - 18:00. Admission 5/4. Closed until 17 Jan.
Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. UNGBW
STASI PRISON
MATRIX The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the Stasi
Directly underneath under the Warschauer Strae U-Bahn Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship. Used by
station DJs lay down tracks of RnB, straight house, soul, the Soviets and the GDRs secret service to extract confessions
electro, disco and pop on seven dance floors within the in advance of (show) trials, the Hohenschnhausen prison
vaults that date back to 1901. Theres always a party here, swallowed thousands of people who underwent horrific
365 nights a year. Thursday is student night, Friday has physical and psychological torture in the chilling submarine
party classics with free champagne before midnight for cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short film is followed
ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy cocktails.QI4, by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly explaining how
Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer efficiently the prison system worked, and how nobody ever
Strae, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrix-berlin.de. escaped. Take tram M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder
Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission 3-6. UGBW Strae and walk 600 metres.QGenslerstrae 66, tel. +49 30
98 60 82 30, www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed,
POSTBAHNHOF CLUB Sat, Sun at 14:30. Admission 5.
Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this well-run
club set inside the former mail station next to Ostbahnhof has THE WALL MUSEUM (MAUERMUSEUM)
three dancefloors and an outdoor bar. The music varies nightly Right next to the East Side Gallery, the longest remaining stretch
depending on the party theme; everything from 90s, RnB and of the Berlin Wall, this new museum uses films of historic events
rock to house and electro. Unlike other clubs in the area, this and interviews with witnesses plus some exhibits to tell the
is no overhyped favourite - you can simply expect to have a story of the structure that split the city from 1961 to 1989. Not
good time here. Also known for concerts and other events. to be confused with the Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie.
QStrae der Pariser Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS QMhlenstrasse 78-80, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 698 12 80, www.postbahnhof.club. Strasse, tel. +49 30 82 71 77 17 40, www.thewallmuseum.
Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Admission 4-7,50. com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 12.50/6.50.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket August - September 2016 43
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG
of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstrae from U-Bahn
old working-class district station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
in the former East Berlin into beautiful Husemannstrae, which was already
that came through the war restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistrae
relatively unscathed. After where youll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
1989, the cool brigade enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
pounced on the area, and courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Strae
houses that were once and amble down Lychenerstrae to pretty, caf-lined
home to East German Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstrae west, turn left
punks were renovated down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
in odes to pastel. The station to Eberswalder Strae; youll soon reach the
number of wine shops and popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Strae
young parents pushing with its excellent Wall Memorial.
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer HOTEL
Bergs best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also PRECISE MYERS
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket
west. private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom
GETTING THERE has a pleasant summer terrace.QH2, Metzer Strae
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefel- 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
derplatz and Eberswalder Strae, close to most attractions. 30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstrae you can use tram de. 51 rooms (8 singles 75 - 135, 33 doubles 85
U Pankstr. Erich
M1 to Eberswalder Strae as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer -We 10 Premium 115 - 265).
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