Qualities of a Good Textile Merchandiser

Merchandiser:
A merchandiser plays double roles in the apparel industry. Acts as a seller to the buyer,
on other hands play a buyer role to the manufacturer. So the person who include in
buying and selling goods is called as a merchandiser. All the procedures of an apparel
industry, a merchandiser is directly or indirectly involves. For this
reason merchandising department is very important department in the apparel
industry. For smooth order execution, a merchandiser must have some
essential qualities.

Qualities of a good merchandiser are mentioned below:

1. Textile knowledge
2. Language skill
3. Negotiation
4. Computer skill
5. Consumption
6. Costing
7. Planning
8. Team work
9. Smartness
10. Present Market Prices

1. Textile knowledge:
A good textile merchandiser should have required outstanding textile knowledge. This is
very important for order execution in an apparel industry. Textile knowledge helps a
merchandiser in every step of order procurement. So, textile knowledge is very
important for a good merchandiser. A textile merchandiser should knowledge
about fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, finishing, garments production, accessories etc.

2. Language skill:
Language is the major way of communication with another person. This communication
is very essential for merchandising activities. A merchandiser should have excellent
communication in English. She/he should have sound skill in English, both written and
spoken.

3. Negotiation:
Negotiation skill is one of the most important skills for a merchandiser. A merchandiser
should know how to negotiation with the buyer and seller. The garments
merchandisers are mainly negotiated about the order costing with the buyer.

4. Computer Skill:
A merchandiser should have enough knowledge about computer operation specially,
basic knowledge of MS Word, MS Excel. The Computer makes easier to do work such
as costing, consumption, time and action plan, etc. By the help of a computer,
a merchandiser can easily store any kind of order data which helps for future record.

5. Consumption:
Knowledge about consumption is the most essential skill for a merchandiser. To be a
good merchandiser, he/she should have clear knowledge about consumption of a
different order of the buyer. Otherwise, this issue will create problem to submit the order
at lead time. To be a skilled merchandiser, one should have the excellent knowledge
about Consumption.

6. Costing:
Proper costing of an export order is a very important factor for a good merchandiser.
Accurate costing can make an order profitable. To find out costing a merchandiser need
to calculate a few numbers of measurements and consumption of order.

7. Planning:
Planning is another important key factor for a skill merchandiser. A right planning of an
order process can help to find out future profit or lose. Therefore, merchandisers always
try to make a smooth planning for an export order execution.

8. Team work:
Actually merchandising profession is a team work. In a merchandising department,
people work as a team. This is very important for the execution of an export order which
improve order productivity. Team work also improved the professional relationship
of a merchandiser.

9. Smartness:
A good merchandiser should be smart. He/she is an all-rounder person in textile sector.
In normal sense, smartness means a person is external expression. But in the context
of textile sector merchandisers smartness is dependent on his work.

10. Present Market Prices:

A good merchandiser should have knowledge about the present market price of textile
fabrics and accessories. Market prices depend on market price analysis, sourcing, link
up with manufacture, etc. A merchandisers smart knowledge of market price can
reduce the cost of the order. So, the knowledge about the present market price is very
essential for a good merchandiser.

Job Responsibility and Qualities of an Assistant

Merchandiser
Introduction:
Assistant merchandiser is very important for manufacturing organizations or baying
agency. Assistant merchandiser provides administrative support to merchandise
managers at companies that sell make and distribute products. Assistant merchandisers
also support merchandise managers and purchasers as they find, develop and ship
products. In this regards as an assistant merchandisers need have some experience
and qualities. By the help of my job experience, now I would like to discuss about the
job responsibility and qualities of an Asst. merchandiser.

Job Responsibility and Qualities of an Assistant Merchandiser:

Responsibilities and qualities of an Asst. merchandiser details as follows-
1. Fluent in Written and spoken English.

2.. Properly follow-up merchandiser command & Guidelines skills.

3. Try to advanced planning and analytical skills, including computer skills.

4. Follow-up buyer order requirements carefully.

5. In from to merchandiser manager if found any kinds of new or existing inquiry from
buying agent/ or buyer.

6. Strong customer awareness and understanding.

7. Time keeping & ability to meet stringent deadlines.

8. Follow-up PP sample/Development sample /shipment sample carefully.

9. Every day check Email properly.

10. Development relationship with senior person skills.

11. Every day share with merchandiser manager essential customer requirements if
doubt able.

12. Follow-up production line report every day.

13. Good judgment and decision making skills.

14. Discreet, professional and well spoken, with excellent communication skills.
15. Update and collect total company seasonal buyer order or requirements and review
with merchandiser manager/ merchandising director.

Conclusion:
All above discussion, it is easily said that, Asst. merchandiser is one of the most
important people in the merchandising department in an apparel industry. Without
perfect assistant this department never be accomplished. Finally, as an asst.
merchandiser works with hard and using administrative and computer skills, they may
proof reports for accuracy and address concerns of disgruntled customers. So on the
job training is necessary in this position.
Flow Chart of Knit Merchandising:
As above already written that order confirmation to order execution under this there
are multi step these step going through merchandiser and this process is known as knit
merchandising.

Below is flow chart of knit merchandising-

Sampling

Costing

Order confirmation

T&A

Lab dip approval

Yarn order

Trims approval

Trims order

Pre production meeting

pp samples approval

Garment Testing

Knitting approval

CMT

Finishing

Shipment sample approval(gold seal)

Finishing

Packing

Final inspection

 Goods dispatched

Knit Merchandising:
Knit merchandising means an activity of selling and promoting the goods. These
activities are done by a merchandiser. Thats why we can say that merchandiser is one
who execute all related tasks about price negotiation, order confirmation, fabric follow
up, order execution and on time shipment by interacting with buyer and the knit
garments manufacturer company. Now I am trying to give a clear concept about this
topic.

Knit Merchandising Tasks:

Before knit merchandising we should understand a general merchandising process in
an ideal apparel industry. The general process of merchandising is as follows-
Overall follow-up, i.e. product development to shipment.
Costing.
Sample development.
Doing the consumption of fabrics, trims/accessories and prepare booking.
Contact with Buyers for troublesome matters.
Can take decisions independently.
Prepare Time and action plan (TNA) and also sourcing plan with execution.
Inventory control and in-house raw materials.
Ensure shipment and take decision for smooth production.
We can divided into two step of all Knit merchandising job responsibilities. A
merchandiser must have those below knowledge for execution the total merchandising
tasks. They are-

1. Follow up
2. Order Execution.
1. Follow Up:
Follow up means yarn booking, fabric booking, Lab dip development and approval,
accessories booking, knitting follow up, dyeing and finishing follow up.
2. Order Execution:
Order execution means pattern making, print and embroidery, development, various
type of sample development and comments, production cutting, print and
embroidery, sewing, finishing, shipment.
Thats all above process is merchandising task.

Concepts of Knit Garments Merchandising

Introduction:
Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on
time taking into consideration the 4 Rs of expediting Right Cost, Right Quantity, Right Quality
and Right Time.
Functions of Merchandisers:
1. Execution of Sample orders
2. Costing.
3. Programming.
4. Yarn Procurement Arrangements.
5. Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Drafting.
6. Accessories arrangement (order placing follow-ups).
7. Approval of various processorss sewing operations and finishing processes.
8. Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval.
9. Size set approval.
10. Preproduction sample follow-ups.
11. Pilot run inspection.
12. In process inspection.
13. Production controlling.
14. Identifying shortages and make arrangements for the shortages.
15. Shortage quantity and quality following quality control procedures.
16. Following quality assurance procedures.
17. Maintaining the juniors activities of in house and sub-contractor units.
18. Buyer communication.
19. Communication with production units, processing units and other third partys
(vendors).
20. Proper reporting.
21. Highlighting to the management.
22. Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising).
23. Developing samples.
24. Placement of orders.
25. Taking measures for consistent production.
26. Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of
merchandising.
27. Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about
merchandising.

1. Sample order execution:

After the receipt of the Specification, pertaining to the sample order,
the merchandiser has to
understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be
amendments related to any of the specifications in the sample order sheet. It is the duty
of the merchandiser to execute sample order and dispatch on time the Right quality.

2. Costing:
The merchandisers should know the following details while costing.

Yarn cost.
Process cost (Knitting, Bleaching, and Raising etc.)
Rates pertaining to various sewing operations.
 CMT(Cut Make Trim) Rate.
Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate.
Overheads.
Shortage (or) wastage 3%.
Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%.
Insurance 2%-3%,
Buyers agents commission 5%-6%,
Quota rate per garment.
Profit 15% - 20%
3. Programming:
Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is
done by the
merchandisers. The following factors should be considered in programming.

1. Allowances:

Fabric structure
Dia. fixation (knitting dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.)
Process loss (shrinkage etc.)
Size wise piece weight
Extra quantity required
Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)
4. Route card Drafting (or) Production Scheduling:
For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the
merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned
manner. The following details (or) aspects should be considered in drafting (or)
scheduling.

Design
No. of sewing operations
No.of processes
Despatch date
No. of Components
Type of stitches
Order quantity
Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units.
Prioritizing the other factors
Targeted dates for various processes (or) stages of merchandising.
Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and
actual performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of
merchandising should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or)
operation is actually done should also be entered in production scheduling. The
merchandisers are accountable for the deviation.
5. Accessories arrangements:
Merchandiser has to make arrangements for the timely delivery of the required
accessories to the
concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose. The
merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the details
furnished in accessories requisition form. After the receipt of accessories quality check
will be done.

6. Approvals:
Approval is an authentication of all required conformances related to a process (or) an
operation. The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various processes
and sewing operations before approvals. There should not heron-conformities.
Evidences for approval should be cross checked to confirm that all the approvals having
made properly.

7. Approval of various processes sewing operations

and finishing processes:
The various process of sewing operations and finishing process such as patter making,
cutting,
sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers

8. Pattern approvals:
Patterns should be approved for

Measurement
Style and fit
Allowances
Accuracy of pattern
If there is any non-conformance in pattern that should be corrected before it is used in
production
Pattern approval samples will be received from the concerned units and approved by
the approval
department (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conformance in any size sample revised
sample for thatsize should be again submitted for approval.

9. Size set approvals:

Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers. All
the quality
parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross checked.
The below
mentioned aspects should be considered.

Measurements
Aesthetics
Process quality
GSM
 Piece shrinkage
Washing fastness of the piece
Sewing operation quality
Print (or) embroidery position
Labeling instructions.
Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate.
Washing fastness of garment should be verified.
Shrinkage in garment can also be verified.
10. Pre-production samples:
This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers, buyer
agents office
buying office). All the quality parameters have to be verified. In case of non-
conformances it will be
mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we may have to
submit the
revised samples after the required rectifications.

11. Pilot run inspection:

Pilot run denotes the first production garments quality parameters are verified and
preventive
measures can be taken. The follow up team should do pilot run inspection to identify the
various
defects and it will be rectified in production.

12. In process inspection:

In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activities
related to execution of an order. We can have procedures for frequency and adequacy.
In case of major non- conformities we have to highlight the problems of quality at the
right time to the right person without fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to
confirm that all the required quality procedures are adopted by the concerned units and
preventive actions are taken to enhance the performance.

13. Production controlling:

Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be taken to
control the nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to
control the non-conformances. Periodical quality check should be done after an hour.

14. Shortage problem:

The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn, fabric,
accessories etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the shortages steps are to be
taken for the arrangement of required materials on time. In case of shortages also we
have to follow the quality control and quality assurance procedure without fail. Quality of
the material should not be compromised.
15. Following quality control procedures:
In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual. The
merchandiser has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and
operations quality procedures should be followed very strictly. It has to inculcate the
importance of procedures to subordinates, in house units (or) own units, and sub
contractors.

Following quality assurance procedures:

All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be followed very
strictly without
partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches, tested
accessories) should be maintained properly. Before cutting, the merchandiser has to
confirm that the concerned unit has got all the required approvals properly from the
authorized person.

16. Monitoring the junior activities:

The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the subordinates
about the quality procedures. He has to give instructions to them before going for
factory visits. He has to discuss the various activities to be executed on a particular day.
The merchandiser has to control the activities of the subordinates so that the
performance of the followed team is good.

17. Monitoring the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-

contractor units:
The merchandiser has to monitor the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units.
He has to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance
procedures are followed up properly by them (or) not. He has to inculcate the
importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the planned performance level.

18. Buyer communication:

The merchandiser has to go through the faxes coming from buyers and he has to send
reply on time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular order to
the concerned buyer on time. The below mentioned are some of the duties of buyer
communication,

Sample execution
Amendments
Comments on the send samples
Sample order sheet
Buyer visit
Production status
Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals.
19. Communication with others:
The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and job
workers of various processing. Through proper interaction only we make arrangements
for the timely supply of the required materials to the concerned persons. He has to know
the production status from various units which will be helpful in proper follow and proper
importing.

20. Proper Reporting:

The merchandiser has to furnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right time.
He has to givereports for the below mentioned activities

Sample execution
Approvals
Testing procedures
Production status
Programming
Shortage details
Inspection details arid status.
Production status for meting etc.
Report from inspection agencies, testing labs
21. High Lighting:
The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right time
without fail. Highlighting will facilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps to tackle
the problems on time. Proper decision is made due to timely highlighting.

22. Record maintenance:

The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders.
Proper filing should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record
maintenance. The below mentioned are some examples.

Sample details
Sample Inspection Reports
Testing Reports
Evidence of approvals
Proper filing (Buyer wise, order wise)
Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy)
Pilot run Inspection Report
Fabric Inspection report
Mid Inspection Report
Inspection report from buying office, buying agents and inspection agencies.
Test reports from inspection agencies and labs
Production status reports
Production status reports related to meetings
Pre-final inspection reports
 Final inspection reports etc.
23. Developing samples:
Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may
have to develop samples. Samples may be fabric with required knit structure (or)
garments with required specification. The merchandiser has to consider all the quality
parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case of non-conformities in the
samples developed, revised samples may be send for approval purpose. It is the duty of
the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to the concerned buyers by
means of consistent follow-up.

24. Placements of orders:

Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors after evaluation (when the production
capacity is not sufficient) order is placed to new manufacturers also orders can be
placed to in-house units also. In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or)
responsible to find out the right manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial
stages small quantity order will be placed. After verifying their performance large
quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it may
be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of CMT order after the
confirmationof average piece weight of a particular size, processed fabric is delivered to
the concerned unit by thesupplier.

25. Taking measures for consistent production:

It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activities in accordance
with the production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of each and every
process (or) an operation within the targeted time. He has to take the necessary step for
the consistent production by tackling the problems in merchandising. (e.g.)

Quality of yarn
Replacing good quality yarn
Consistent arrangement for fabric
Timely arrangements for the timely supply of accessories.
Shortage quantities follow up.
26. Preventive actions:
Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive
actions to eliminate deviations in all the stages of merchandising.

27. Attending meetings with superiors:

Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for
implementing new systems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of
production status meeting the production details about various buyers order will be
collected by the merchandiser from different units and will furnished to superiors. The
merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by the superiors
pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders.
Merchandising Procedure for an Export
Order
Introduction:
In an export order, merchandising departments play an important role in order
execution. There are several steps in merchandising departments for successfully
processing of an export order. A good merchandiser should have clear knowledge
about this procedure for execution of an export order The main tasks of an export
order are ensuring 100% quality within the lead time for on time shipment. Today I
would like to discuss about the merchandising procedure for an export order.

Steps of Export Order Procedure :

There are fewer steps in merchandising departments for processing of an export order
which are as follow

1. Inspiration / Big picture:

The design team of merchandising department continually research export order. Color,
design and the trend team present to company executive board. The early trend team
seasonally communicates top line seasons trends and lifestyle trends to the buyer and
all the global markets.

2. Range Control:
The Merchandiser analyses the current season and sets the planning framework for
the following year. Within the meeting Financials, footage, launch dates, option
planning, Good/Better/Best, customer profiles and price architecture proposals are
reviewed and agreed by the team.

3. Design Presentation:
The Designer quarterly communicates a departmental phased design presentation to
the trading teams. The Buyer then works with the designer to agree the product
direction and actions from the design presentation to ensure they incorporated into the
base plan meeting.

4. Base Plan:
Buyer By phase a departmental meeting to review and agree the category option
framework. The buyer and designer review the balance of the range, colors,
fabrics, trims and styling details so the design packs can be created.
Merchandiser bringing sales history, wish list and option plans.
5. Strategy:
Merchandiser and buyer work with trading and buying manager to prepare the strategy
pack, the trading manager will present to the company executive board. The outcome of
the meeting is hopefully sign-off from the company executive board.
6. Design Pack Sign-Off:
By phase the buying, design and technical teams review the thumbnails and design
packs and ensure all details are correct. They generate a full size specification to
develop the sample and to gain an accurate costing.

7. Selection:
Buyer by phase presents the proposed range to the senior management team on
the department.
Merchandiser presents the financials to the senior management team on the
department.
Designer Supports the buyer provides trend overview by category at start of selection
meeting. The outcome of the meeting is sign off the proposed range, product offer to the
customer by customer profile, quantities by line, and the overall margin position and
money spent. Post selection bookings and contracts are sent to suppliers.

8. Orders Placed :
Buyer confirms price, supplier, factory, fabric, freight cost, process cost, duty.
Merchandiser confirms volume, warehouse, delivery date, store distribution, booking
form is then sent to supplier, dates and deliveries are confirmed, when confirmed
contracts are raised within 2 weeks of booking by trading support.

9. Approval Process:
The approval process splits between 2 teams, buying are responsible for strike off
approvals, lab dip approvals, styling changes, trim and packaging
approvals.The Technical team are responsible for the quality and fit process.

10. Garment Manufacturing:

After the design is sealed the factory will order all components, trims, fabric and
threads, the order will commence and the shipping confirmation is applied for and the
goods are shipped.

11. Deliver to Warehouse:

Landed Suppliers: Landed Suppliers own and are responsible for Goods until they are
receipted into our warehouses. Within the new Network Strategy Landed Suppliers will
deliver to each warehouse.
FOB Suppliers: FOB Suppliers will either deliver to CFS (Container Freight Station) for
RDC consolidation at origin. Or go direct to buyer country and go through the
consolidation in the buyer. This decision is made by the Flow Team. Merchandisers
are responsible for Goods arriving at the Port of origin on Time.
12. Sample Review:
Buyer/ Designer/ Sourcing Manager Review all the samples, selecting which samples
need to be re-worked, re-costed and proposed for the range building stage. On samples
that the team feel strongly for the fit process will start. (If not the sample may be re-
worked inc; design packs)
13. Negotiation Process:
Buyer/ Sourcing Manager Reviews the costs submitted from the supplier.
Amendments are made to the samples resulting in cost price changes and
further negotiations.The Buyer/Sourcing Manager will negotiate prices with the
supplier.
Merchandiser Supports the Buyer by providing foretasted volumes to achieve
accurate cost prices.
Designer Supports the Buyer in any amendments of product development / design
packs to achieve target cost prices.

14. Range Build/ Ranking:

Buyer & Designer Build the range onto the footage. Ensuring they have considered
outfit building, color balance, styling, magpie pieces, customer profiles, end use,
margin, trend direction, price architecture and supplier production levels resulting in a
well balanced commercial range. At this stage samples will be starting the fit
process.Ranking puts the products in priority order from the highest buy through to
the lowest buy.

How to Maintain Time & Action (TNA) Plan

for an Order
Introduction:
The critical path or TNA is a proper collaboration of Time and action. In a Textile
industry, to execute an export order, need to regular evaluation of production activates
with the help of times. This regular evaluation is called Critical Path Method or Time and
action plan or calendar. This is also known as TNA. By this evaluation, a merchandiser
can easily know the present situation of the order. In the case of export order, we all
know that, buyer mention lead time with order sheet. According to this lead time,
a merchandiser make Critical path. This method helps to make sure an order delivery
within lead time.
Collaboration Of Time And Action:
An apparel industry has lots of work to do such as order analysis, costing, fabric
and accessories booking, sampling, finishing etc. For proper execution this task, need
a scheduling plan. Actually, Time and action (TNA) or critical path is sum of plan
schedules. This Plan scheduled is expressed with a sheet format which is well known
as time and action calendar. For execution an order requires two type of plan in the
apparel industry. There are

1. Long term plan ( Ex. Sewing)

2. Short term plan (Ex. Costing)
Basic Time Required for an Order

For more understanding here use an order main activities diagram with the help of
required time. Here, need more time for sewing then costing an export order.

According to require time, diagram is given bellow:

Sample of Critical Path or TNA:

Generally TNA or Critical path method sheet has two main Columns. To make this
sheet, need one action or activities and another is duration or plane dates column. TNA
sheet is very important for a merchandiser because of this sheet, easily making daily
or weekly working tasks. Now I would like to discuss a time and action plan or critical
path calendar with the help of a buyers view. In the below discussed the Critical path
calendar to perform an order within the to-do list.
Time and Action Plan (TNA)

Suppose Here,
Lead time Is 120 days
Quantity of order 65,000 pcs
Manufacturing Quality is high

Necessity of TNA in textile industry:

1. It helps a smart merchandiser to make out the critical tasks in an industry.
2. It is an essential element for a smooth shipment order.
3. It is essential for timely shipment an export order
4. It helps proper the execution process of export order.
5. It provides the idea about the position of running order.
6. It helps to optimize the factory inventory.
7. It gives the apparent plan about the Export order.
8. It is useful to know the status of the order processing at different level in the apparel
industry.
9. It enhances the factory inventory management.
 10. It improves efficiency due to proper time schedule.
11. It enhances productivity as a result, also improve a company profits.
Conclusion:
Above all discuss, we can easily say that, Critical path method or TNA is playing an
important role in the apparel industry. A Smart merchandiser should proper knowledge
about details process of TNA. It is so easy to ship the goods on schedule if, a
merchandiser tracks TNA correctly. A successful TNA can make on time shipment,
which enhance a companys reputation to the buyer.

Purpose of Negotiation
Negotiation:
Negotiation is a procedure of argument which takes place between two parties.
In garments trade one party is importer or buyer and another party is supplier or
manufacturer. The object of negotiation is to make a final decision where the decision
will be accepted by both party. In negotiation both party will represent a series of
demand for their own favour.

Purpose of Negotiation:
The major purpose of negotiation is the wining of the both side. One side will earn
profit continuously and another party will lose, it is not beneficial for both positions. For
example, an importer is in illogical wining situation and the supplier is in losing position.
Temporarily it can be assumed that the business is beneficial to the importer. But target
of every company is to run their business for a long time. In case of above business
situation, the supplier may avoid buyer any time. Due to the avoiding a greater impact
may be reflected upon the importers business. Then it will be difficult to run the
business smoothly for the buyer. On the other hand an experienced supplier can gain
logical profit from an inexperienced buyer. But when the buyer will understand real
scenario, then this type of supplier will be deleted. Not only to that buyer, will this bad
reputation be spread out very soon in the market, which may be a great loss to the
business of the supplier. This type of situation is not expected to both buyer and
supplier. As target of each is to run their business for long a time.
To avoid this situation, negotiation is very important in long term business issue. By a
successful negotiation a better relationship is built up between buyer and seller. So
both parties show interest to continue their business with each other. As a result it
becomes very easy for both parties run the business for a long time, which is the
ultimate goal of any company.

Conclusion:
So, the importance of fair negotiation is very important for both buyer and seller. But
finally some demands are compromised to take a neutral decision where no party will
lose and each party will be as at the final stage of negotiation both parties remain
in winning situation. This situation is known as win-win situation which is the main goal
of a merchandiser.

Professional Relationship of Merchandisers

Introduction:
Merchandisers in an industry work as a team. In an apparel industry teamwork
improving productivity so, this is very important for the execution of an export order. We
all know that, every person has different Personality, test, choice, perception and
motivation thats why, this teamwork is not easily found. To ensure a good teamwork in
an industry, a merchandiser must be improved professional relationship and attitude.
Generally every professional working place, the employees are engaged three kinds of
relationship with each others.

1. I Win You Lose

2. I Lose You Lose
3. I Win You Win

These types are not only used in professional working place but also used in textile
merchandising department. I also face this in my working place. Now I am going to
discuss in the light of my job experiences.

1. I Win You Lose:

This quality of merchandiser is selfish. They cant tolerant other improve and self
seekers at the expense. This behaves are making a bad impression to colleagues,
subordinates and seniors. They always try to stop others progress and improvement.
This way of life is harmful for career which also destroying for the teamwork and friendly
work environment. As a result, productivity falters.

2. I Lose You Lose:

There is a second category of peoples who has the poor mentality thats why cant get
success at workplace and become jealous of others. This type of peoples wants to stop
others success at any cost. Their mentality is I lose, you lose. This types of behaving
and culture is creating an unfriendly environment at workplace and conflict with each
others. As a result, productivity falters.

3. I Win You Win:

In a merchandising department, this is the best method that making a co-operative and
friendly relationship among merchandisers. This Friendly relationship makes to higher
motivation, good morale of merchandisers therefore, grow up attitude. This attitude
greatly contributes to work culture and increasing productivity, which eventually leads to
win-win-win situation in an industry.
For making win-win situation a merchandiser should be used three opportunity in the
workplace.

Consolation:
Above all this discussion, we can easily say that, I Win, You Win is the best attitude for
a merchandiser. So, in the merchandising sector should maintain win-win situation with
each others. The professional relationship of a merchandiser should be like this. By this
professional relationship, a merchandiser gets strong attitude. This attitude helps grow
up a good teamwork and we all know that, teamwork improving productivity.

Garments Sampling Process for Export Order

Garments sample:
Sampling is very important for garments manufacturing process in a textile industry. For
this reason garments factories have a garment sampling department. For confirming
an export order, sampling plays an important role. According to the sample condition,
buyer will give comments. Generally, buyers require different types of sample from
different stages of the order process. There are few stages in garments industry for
making an export order. Now I would like to discuss about this process.
In garments factory samples are divided by two ways. They are development samples
and production samples.
A. Development samples:
Development samples are the initial stage of garment manufacturing. In garments
industry those samples are making before production, which are called development
sample. They are as follows.

1. Design sample: Design sample is first sample for garments sampling department.
This sample is also called proto sample. Proto samples are created by a fashion
designer. Not mention fit and fabric details in this stage.

2. Fit sample: For making a fit sample, fashion designers are using dummy. Fit
samples are prepared by buyer order sheet measurement. For this reason, fit sample
is very important in garments sampling department.

3. Photo shoot sample: When the fit sample is approved the photo shoot sample is
made. Taking Photo shoot for the buyer where samples will be worn by the models or
dummy. For this sample, actual fabrics and accessories are compulsory. By this
sample buyer can easily give their comments.

4. Mock up sample: Mock up sample is not a complete sample. For buyer equipment
few parts of garments are made. It is part of garments such as sleeve, collar, front
panel, leg parts etc.

5. Size set sample: Generally a garment has different sizes such as S, L, M, XL, XXL,
etc. For this reason, check the fit of the garment in different sizes. Size set sample is
very important because without this approval, the cutting should not be started.

6. Approval sample: Before pre-production sample, sometimes buyer

required approval sample. This sample is made actual fabrics and accessories.
Approval sample is actual buyer one kinds of recommend for next process.

7. Pre-production sample: The Pre-production sample is the last stage of

development sample. In apparel industry, short name of this sample is PP sample.
Garment bulk production depends on approval of pre-production sample from buyer. So
pre-production sample is a most important sample.

B. Production samples:
Production samples are the last stage of sampling process at manufacturing industry.
Actually, this stage is combustion of online sample and shipment sample. By those
samples a buyer can know the bulk production condition of a garment industry. In both
stages of production, used original fabrics and accessories.

1. Online sample: Online sample is also called top of production sample (TOP sample).
A sample which is collected from the first stage of production process is known as
online sample. For production follow up, a buyer must be collected this sample from
the apparel industry.

2. Shipment sample: In this stage production has done. For sending this sample to
the buyer, need all packing accessories such as poly, hanger, packing list, bar code
sticker, hang tag, price tag, etc. In garment factory, shipment samples are kept for
future reference thats why, this sample is known as keep sample.

How to Maintain Merchandising Files

Merchandising Filing:
Some people think a filing is only record of document in their file cabinets. But the filing
is a structure of document record in files for future quotation. This process of filing,
which helps in smooth handling of file is called filing system. In an export order buyer
must be maintained document by official formality and the good merchandisers are
always followed this document with failing systems in their workplace. During an export
order execution a merchandiser should maintain a proper and clean file up. In this
article I would like to discuss about merchandising files, filing system, file document type
and at the end try to give some tips about easy file up.
Type of Merchandising File Document:
In a garment industry merchandising document is filed in a computer or in a steel
cabinet. In an apparel industry, merchandising department handling most of the official
document. In textile industry, there two types of document. There are
1. Visual document
2. Physical document
Visual Document:
The visual document is most important document for a merchandiser. The main
document comes from directly from buyer which is called Purchase Order (PO). The
visual document is such as PO, Pro forma Invoice (PI), Letter of Credit (L/C), Back to
back (BTB), Fabric booking list, Critical path, costing, consumption, etc. This is sending
from the buyer as soft copy which are filing up in a merchandiser PC. The
merchandisers should proper file up soft document in their office computers or laptop.
Now I will show up a merchandiser file up in the computer. Here, red circles are
showing an order file up process.
Physical Document:
In the merchandising department, some files are recorded in their file cabinets which
are known as Physical Document. This physical document is such as trim card, sward
card, lap dip approval, Fabric approval, Inventory reports, Minutes of negotiations
meeting etc. which are punched with punching machine for filing. Finally physical
document file are tagged with style, buyer name, Season, PO, date etc.

Importance Of Merchandising Filing:

1. For future record.
2. For smooth order execution.
3. For production efficiency.
4. For recognize records consistently.
5. For recover records fast.
6. For connect to the records lists.

Calculation:
The main purpose of merchandising filing is smooth handling an export order. So,
always try to file up plan simple. There are some methods of filing such as Alphabetic,
Numeric, Alpha-numeric, Chronologic, etc. The order records are arranged by dates,
number, Alphabetic or Alpha-numeric. Using different folder or color top of the file which
also makes filing system easier.

How to Calculate SMV in Garments Industry

Standard Minute Value:
SMV is defined as the time which is allowed to perform a job satisfactorily. Normally it is
expressed in minute value. The full elaboration of SMV is Standard Minute Value. SMV
term is broadly used in the garments manufacturing industry. SMV is also known as
Standard Allocated Minute (SAM). For smooth and timely shipment an export order
a merchandiser need to proper SMV set up in garments production floor.

SMV Calculation in Garments Industry:

In garments industry, SMV calculation differ accounting to the number of operations,
seams length, types of fabric, number of workers, machine efficacy etc.
General formula of SMV is given below-
SMV= Basic time + Allowance
Where,

Basic time= Observed time X Rating/ 100

Allowance= Relaxation allowance + Contingency allowance + Machine Delay

Allowance.
Rating= the pace or speed of operation at which the operator is performing the job.

Observed time can be found by the time necessary to complete an operation. This
observed time calculated by stop watch. Ratting is an evaluation of efficiency. This
ratting is done by the operator who is performing the job. It can be measured by an
observer who experienced in specific job which is being observed.

SMV of Different Garments:

Standard Minute Value (SMV) of different basic garments are given below-

S/L Garments SMV

1 Full sleeve shirt(woven fabric) 16-20

2 Jeans pant 12-15

3 Athletic knit shirt 2-3

4 Womens shelf campy 4-5

5 U-neck T-shirt(Knit fabric) 4-5

6 womens panty 3-4

7 Mens polo shirt(woven fabric) 12-15

8 Mens brief 2-3

Factors of Standard Minute Value in garments :

Standard Minute Value of garments depends upon a good number of factors. They are
as following-

Type of garments
Types of fabrics
Garments size
Garments design
Difficulty of the processes
Types of machine
Types of technology

How to Execute an Order L/C in Apparel Industry

Letter of Credit (L/C):

The meaning on L/C is letter of credit given by the buyer via bank, The L/C included
some terms and condition given by the buyer and really it is safer side for the
both seller and buyer. We can get the money from our buyers bank at the agreed time
in the L/C. An agreement between the buyer and seller that declared the credit period
from the date of shipment. Now I am going to explain Letter of Credit according to the
view of the apparel industry.
Importance of L/C in Apparel Industry:
Letter of Credit plays an important role both buyer and manufacturer. The main thing in
our export garment field is payment so the L/C will support and this is the safest mode,
both buyer and the seller and it helps to meet our delivery dates. Which provide a good
security for our order. The bank acts as buyer so this will be an evidence for the
payment. We will get the loan against L/C form our bank.

Sample of L/C Form

How to Execute an Order L/C:

The following the steps to involve that to execute an export order
1. The exporter should know the terms and conditions of the contract. The mode of
payment will mention in the L/C.
2. Details of exporters, negotiating bank, Shipping Company, Insurance Company.
3. Directorate General of Foreign Trade, Clearing Agents, Customs House, Port Trust.
4. Get the buyer details from ECGC, Inspection Agency.
5. Order and PO confirmation from the buyer side.
 General Cycle of L/C in Apparel Industry

6. Need to get the following approvals from buyer-

Lab Dip, Fit, PP, Photo Shoot, Size Set, Salesmanship, Bulk Production, Shipment
Sample.
8. Actual Fabric and Accessories.
9. After finishing of inspection prepare the following list-
Bill of Exchange, Commercial invoice, Bill of lading, Marine insurance, packing list,
Export inspection certificate.

10. Finally the exporter will get the value for the good by the bank.

Garment Price Quotation for an Order

Price Quotation:
Price quotation is based on order confirmation once style selected by buyer. We
provided costing to buyer or quoted a cost to the buyer. Price quoted is playing an
important role as it is way of order confirmation of garment. Once an order is
confirmed, then merchandising department start working with export house. Today I
will discuss about price quotation strategy in the apparel industry with the help of my
job experience.

Price Quotation Procedure in Apparel Industry:

There are various types of price quote process for execution an export order. For
executing an order a merchandiser should have proper knowledge about few trams
such as FOB, C&F, CIF, CMT, etc. FOB is known as free on board, C&F is cost and
freight, CIF is Cost, insurance and freight, CMT is Cut makes and trims. In costing a
merchandiser is mainly quoted yarn price, yarn average rate, trims cost of garment,
knitting rate, average weight, and gross weight of the garment, hand work on a garment,
linking rate, stitching rate, buttoning, overhead of factory, labor cost, profit of buying
houses, sourcing rate, samples submissions rate, once we quoted the price we
quoted these all rates to buyer. Here given a general format of garments price quotation
as below. Hope you will get an idea about price quotation.

Format of price Quotation

For example, if we quoted price of a kid wear garment like new born or toddler range we
take the sample average weight with a gross weight, knitting rate, according to knit
structure after that we Including CMT rate, including overhead and profit and we
quoted price according to buyer currency as buyer need and we quoted price after price
quotation of the export house merchandiser. Price quotation we will communicate
with export house merchant and we quoted price according to those costing. For this
reason a merchandiser should have clear knowledge about price quotation and
application of order costing process.

Fabric Consumption for Knit Garments

Fabric Consummation:
In a garment industry, profit or lose mostly depend on the total consummation of fabric
in an order. Therefore, fabric consummation must be calculated properly before fabric
cutting. There are two major methods to calculate the fabric consumption for a garment
industry. They are namely-marker making method and mathematical method. Generally
fabric consumption for a garment can be calculated through marker making either by
manually or by using a machine with CAD facilities. By mathematical method different
formulas are used to calculate the fabric consumption. Today I would like to discuss
about Knit and woven fabric consummation in the garment industry.
Fabric Consummation for Knit Garments:
Following parameters are needed to be considered for fabric consumption in the
garments industry-

1. Fabric weight (GSM)

2. Fabrics width
3. Grin line orientation
4. Length of the fabric roll
5. Shrinkage of the fabric
6. Type of the fabric
7. Way marker used
8. Size ratio break up
9. Fabric losses while cutting

We all know that knit fabric and woven fabric consummation system are quite
different. Knit fabric is calculated by fabric weight and woven fabric is calculated by
fabric length and weight direction. Therefore, the formula of fabric consummation is also
different for both fabrics.
Basic formula of knit fabric consumption is

Here,
We will find body length, sleeve length and chest length from basic garment sample.
 Allowance is added for body hem, shoulder joint, sleeve hem, armhole joint and both
side seam joints.
GSM mean grams per square meter which value will be confirmed by the buyer or fabric
manufacturer.
12 is added for getting the result as a dozen which is calculated of 1 dozen (PCs)
garments.
Fabric wastage is varied according to the order quantity and order design. Normally this
allowance variation is 5 to 15% of total order.
10000000 is divided for converting the total result of the fabric into kg.

Example of Knit Fabric Consumption:

Suppose, buyer provided a basic knit T shirt order sheet to the garments manufacturer.
Fabric GSM is 150 and there mention, order must be 100% cotton single jersey. Now, I
will give an order sheet measurement demo for knit fabric consumption. Hope that, it
will be easy for understanding in the following-

Now, we will calculate a basic knit T shirt consumption according to the buyer
order sheet. Suppose, allowance is 10, wastage of fabric is 10 % and we also calculate
consumption with the medium size(M) of order. Now apply those values into the basic
formula of knit fabric consumption.
Above the formula we know that,
Garments Costing for Export Order
Garments Costing:
Garment costing is a very important part of export garments business. An important part
of the management of the textile mill is the determination of the production costs. Cost
involves numerous variable factors which are often hard to evaluate accurately and
mathematical exactness in difficult to reach. The yarn market fluctuates, finishing
materials and dyestuff, etc. changes from season to season, and equipments are often
replaced by more modern machinery. Now I would like to discuss about general costing
process for an export order in the garment industry.

Garments Costing for Export Order:

For fixation of a garment price of export order followings types of costing should be
observed carefully by-

1. According to relation with production

Direct Cost (Fabric and Accessories cost)

Indirect Cost (Management cost, electricity cost, transport cost etc.)
2. According to Fixed and Variable System
 Fixed Cost (Building cost, Machinery cost)
Variable Cost (Transportation, salary etc.)
3. According to Cost Element

Material cost
Labor cost
4. According to Function

Production Cost
Sales and Marketing Cost
Administrative Cost

A Sample Format of Costing Sheet

Generally there are many ways to find out a standard export order costing. Here the
costing function of a garment is described below:

o Cost of fabric/doz. Garments (woven/knit) or cost of yarn/doz. Or Garments (sweater).

o Cost of weaving/knitting.
o Cost of Dyeing (if necessary).
o Cost of Printing (if necessary).
o Cost of embroidery (if necessary).
 o Cost of accessories/doz. Garments.
o Cost of manufacturing (CM)/doz. Garments.
o Cost or transportation from factory to sea port.
o Clearing and forwarding cost.
o Commission/ profit.
Note: There are many ways of calculation the costing of a Garments such as F O B
terms, C & A, C I F and some others etc. each of specific criteria.

Most Useful 50 Merchandising Terms and Definitions

Merchandising Terminology:
Export merchandising applies all the principles of fashion merchandising and product
merchandising. It is the key-link between the factory and customer. One of the most
important tasks of export merchandisers is to provide correct and clear information on
time to relevant departments and some key-words are there which are very helpful to
the export merchandiser to communicate with the buyer is called as terminology. This
is also known Merchandising Terms and definitions.
Not only is that, learning the terminology of the fashion industry an important part
of fashion education. Many fashion terms are from French language because franc
has been the capital of fashion. By using correct terminology, you can show that you are
familiar with fashion business.

Important Terminology of Merchandising:

Terminology is very important for a merchandiser. There is lots of merchandising terms
and definitions are used during an order execution. Here I am trying to mention most
common usable teams in merchandising. If you think, I skip few important terms then
kindly comments below. Some most important terminologies we use in export house as
listed below-

1. Apparel industry:
The manufacturer who engaged in the manufacturing of clothing. It is also known as
the garment business.

2. AQL:
AQL is related to the quality of products. In textile factory Acceptance Quality Level is
shortly denoted by AQL.

3. Air Way Will:

Air Way Will is an export document .the carrying agreement between exporter /shipper
and air carrier which is obtained from the airline used to ship the goods. Its a receipt of
goods received given by airlines.
4. Base Fabric:
Basic fabric is grey fabric. Fabric is the main raw material of garments because major
parts of garments are fabric. Initially this fabric is get used for sampling.

5. Book Inventory:
This term is related to fashion accounting. Inventory book means the dollar value of
inventory, as stated in accounting records.

6. Buying Office:
It is an independent or store owned office which is located at a market center and buys
for one chain or for many stores. Buying office is also known as buying house. For more
about buying house kindly

7. Buying Plan:
It is a document of a general description of the types and quantities of merchandise that
a buyer/ importer expect to purchase for delivery within a specific time. It is also known
as purchase order(PO).
8. Bill of Lading:
Bill of loading a document which provides the terms of the contract between the
exporter/shipper and the transportation/logistic company to move fright between stated
points at a specified charge. Its a receipt of goods received given by logistic company.

9. Contractor:
It is an independent producer who does the sewing (sometimes cutting) for the
manufactures, is called as sample worker.
10. Cutting Order:
Cutting order is a company document to maintain cut and produce a specific quantity of
garments.

11. Cut-to-order:
A cutting order based on order received. It relates to sampling department and product
development department.

12. CPM:
CPM stands for Cost per Minute. CPM can help to find out per hour, shift, day and
week cost of garments.
13. CM:
CM is related to the commercial parts of garments merchandising. The full meaning of
CM is Cost of Making. That cost may include with trimmings, Cutting, making, trimmings
cost, cost of making time etc.
14. CAD:
CAD is related to the fabric cutting in garments industry. The full meaning of CAD is
Computer Aided Design which is used as a theoretical tool to design and develop
garment products.

15. C.F.R:
C.F.R means cost and freight. It indicates that the exporter will deliver the products onto
vessel and pay all the normal charges to get the cargo to the named port/seaport.

16. C.I.F:
C.I.F means Cost Freight and Insurance. A pricing term under which the seller pays all
expenses involved in the placing of products on board and in addition prepays the
freight and insures the goods to an agreed destination.

17. Cut-off-date:
Cut off-date is a last date till which a shipping line will accept the packed goods for a
particular vessel or ship. Usually it is 5-8 days before actual ship moving date.

18. Down-charge:
Down-charge is a less cost because of fewer trimmings into finished product. If buyer
says he wants just finished product without any trimmings or embroidery or prints we
should down-charge the buyer means we will decrease production cost.

19. Desk-loom:
This quarter sample(10x20cms) yarn dyed check or strips swatch to get approval of
checks or strips repeat and size .usually this loom is made on a hand loom or baby
loom. Desk-loom is a term used only for woven checks and strips and not for hosiery
strips.

20. Dummy:
Dummy is an artificial human body like doll which is used to get actual human body
shape for measurement garments fittings.

21. Ex- works:

Ex-works means point of origin- a pricing term under which exporter s only
responsibility is to clear the goods for export and make them available to the buyer at
agreed destination.

22. Fabrication:
Fabrication is the process of garments fabric preparation before bulk production thats
why, fabrication is known as a pre-production procedure .The main object of
fabrication is selection of appropriate fabric for a garment.
23. Factory out Late Stores:
The store that sells the manufactures overrun directly to consumers.

24. Fashion Director:

The fashion expert of an organization who works with buyer or designers.
25. F.C.L:
F.C.L denoted the full container load. This is the good sign of both buyer and
manufacturer. Normally this part handle commercial department in a garments.
26. Free on Board:
The exporters undertaken to load the products on the vessel to be used for ocean/ sea
transport.

27. Grading:
Grading a procedure of either increasing or decreasing the size of the sample pattern.
The process of making a sample size pattern larger or smaller to make up a complete
size range.
28. Gross Margin:
Gross margin is related to calculation of manufacturing cost. The difference in dollars
between net sales and the net costs of merchandise/ product during a given period.
29. Knit-down:
This is small knitted fabric swatch (which is knitted as per buyers artwork like checks
or strips to check the repeat and size) which merchandiser sends to the buyer for
approval is known as knit down.

30. Lab-dip:
This is 1010 cm swatch dyed in laboratory of mill for checking color standards given
on pantone is known as lab dip. This swatch is dyed to get color approval from buyer.
Merchandiser has to prepare 4-5 lab dip option for each color because he has to keep
one as counter.

31. Lead Time:

From the date of placing an order to the delivery date this period is known as lead time.
Generally lead time is 90-120 days. Lead time is also called as preparing time for order
execution.

32. L/C:
The meaning of L/C is letter of credit which given by the buyer via bank. In a normal
words L/C is a document of order which is provide buyer to manufacturer where all the
terms and conditions are mention.

33. Line Balancing:

Line balancing is a plan of balancing the production schedule as per the time and action
calendar. Line balancing is also applied in garments sewing floor for smooth order
execution.
34. L.C.L:
L.C.L stands for Less Container Load. When small amount of order execution then less
container load for export or import from manufacturer.

35. Mark Down:

Mark down is known as the difference between the original retail price and a reduced
price.

36. Mark-up:
The difference between the original retail price and a raised price. It means the
difference between manufacturing /cost price and selling price.

37. Modular Manufacturing:

The manufacturing method utilizing a small group of people who work together to
produce a finished garment. It means sample development.

38. Offshore Assembly:

Purchase the fabric and cut it but give it to the other country for sewing is known as
offshore assembly. For the example we can say that, fabric purchase and cut in the
United Kingdom, but sent to the India or Bangladesh for sewing.

39. Partial Shipment:

If the production is only half done and buyer gave us a permission to ship the first half
goods we can ship the first half goods and then remaining this shipment is known as
partial shipment. It is also known as prance shipment.

40. Pantone:
Pantone is a universal shade color shade card. It gets used in all industries for DTM
(dye to match). There are 6 digit numbers for each color. Pantone depends upon TP
(take-pad) and TC (take-card).
Pantone

41. Pattern:
Pattern is a hard thick paper which is used to get the actual shape of different
component of a garment. Pattern is also use as guide of a marker paper.

42. Style Number:

Style number a series of style which is easy to get the style references.

43. SMV:
SMV stands for the Standard Minute Value. SMV is important topic in garments sewing
floor. Standard Minute Value is related with garments time study.
44. Strike-off:
This sample is get done by buyers artwork section to get an approval for print or
embroidery and repeat and size for the same. This trail samples made by printer or
computerized embroidery, which merchandiser sends to buyer for approval is known as
strike off.
45. Time and Action Calendar:
Time and action calendar is stands for time and action calendar or Time and action
plan. It is also known as issuing plan or production schedule or time and action plan. In
order execution process, its also denoted as a short form TNA. For more information
about TNA, kindly

Sample format of TNA

46. Thread Run:

Thread run is an important terms in sewing section. The stitching thread and color for
the same is known as thread run.

47. Up-charge:
Up-charge is an additional cost which will get added into cost of production as per the
buyers instructions. It will increase the manufacturing cost. Up charge will get added
into these things like embroidery, labels, packing method etc.

48. Vendor:
Vendor is very common word in Ready Made Garments (RMG). In a normal word we
know that vendor is a seller, resource, manufacturer or supplier.
49. Vessel-sailing-time:
The time which will get taken by ship or transportation to ship the products is called as
vessel-sailing time.

50. Yarn Dips:

It is a same procedure as lab dip. If a fabric is a yarn dyed checks or strips then yarns
will get dyed into laboratory and those yarns merchandiser has to send to the buyer
for color approval is known as yarn dips.

Major Defects of Dyeing Printing and Finishing

Major defects of dyeing, printing and finishing are given below-
S/L Defects Explanation

Backing fabric is used to cushion fabric during printing. If there is

Back Fabric Seam a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression will result on printed

01 Impression fabric.
02 Bleeding Caused by non-fixed dye or ink.

03 Color Out Caused by color running low in reservoir on printing machine.

04 Color Smear Caused by color being smeared during printing.

05 Crease Mark Caused by fabric folds in the finishing process resulting increase marks.

Caused by creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in dyeing

06 Crease Streak on tubular knits.

Caused by a damaged doctor blade or blade not being cleaned properly

07 Dye Streak in Printing resulting in a long streak on the fabric.

08 Mottled Caused by unevenly applying color during printing.

Caused by printing machine stopping. Results in dye or ink being

09 Printing Machine Stop smudged along the width of fabric.

Caused by print rollers not being synchronized properly. Results in miss-

10 Print Out Of Repair registration.

Caused by wet fabric being left for too long before drying. Can result in

11 Water Spots color migration leaving blotches.

 Subjective Garments Fabric
S/L matter Dyeing Dyeing

In this process, generally ready made garments are In this process, generally grey fabrics
1. Definition subjected to dyeing process. are subjected to dyeing process.

Cost of fabric dyeing is comparatively

2. Cost Cost of garments dying is lower. higher.

Shade In this process possibility of shade

3. variation In this process possibility of shade variation is less. variation is more.

Liquor Required lower liquor ratio in Required higher liquor ratio in the
4. ratio the garments dyeing. fabric dyeing.

There is less possibility of fabric re-

5. Re-dyeing There is possibility of old garments re-dyeing. dyeing.

No.
of machine Desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, finishing can In the fabric dyeing, these processes are
6. required be done in same machine. not possible in the same machine.

The investment cost of fabric dyeing is

7. Investment The investment cost of garments dyeing is lower. higher.

Time In the dyeing process required

8. required In the dyeing process required less time. more time.

Sewing Problems in Apparel Industry

Sewing Problems:
Good seam appearance and performance is related to various factors of stitch, seam,
feed system, needle thread. If we understand the stitch quality, then we will also control
sewing problems. Sewing quality is measured by stitch size, stitch tension, stitch
sequence, elasticity, resilience, elongation, fabric distortion, yarn severance, abrasive
strength etc.
Sewing defect can be classified into three different groups-
A. Problems of Stitch Formation

B. Problems of Seam Puckers

C. Fabric Damage at the seam line

A. Problems of Stitch Formation:
There are different types of problems are found during sewing operation in apparel
industry. It can be classified into following types.
1. Slipped stitch
2. Staggered stitch
3. Unbalanced stitch
4. Variable stitch density
5. Frequent thread breakage

Problems of Stitch Formation

1. Slipped stitch:
Stitches in the seam are present in a regular process. If the interlooping or interlacing
between the top and bottom thread of stitch is not taking place or missed, then it is
known as slipped stitch or skipped stitch. This is more harmful in case of chain
stitch than lock stitch.
2. Staggered stitch:
If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line, then staggered
stitches formed. This problem is a common problem in garments sewing floor. Needle
vibration, wrong adjustment of needle and thread are the main reason of this problem.
3. Unbalanced stitch:
If the interlacement of the needle thread and bobbin threads are not taken place at the
middle (i.e. if the interlacement is taken place in the upper or lower position from the
middle) of two layers of fabrics, then unbalanced stitch is produced. This type of defect
is found in lock stitch machine.

4. Variable stitch density:

If the number of stitches variations in the seam line per unit length, then variable stitch
density occurred. The low pressure of pressure foot, uneven feeding, too much tension
of thread are the major reason of variable stitch density.

5. Frequent thread breakage:

Frequent thread breakage is common sewing problem in sewing floor. This is the
breakage of thread again and again during sewing, which take more time and harmful
for production. Specially, when there needs to open out of sewing to solve the
problem.

B. Problems of Seam Puckers:

The gathering effect of fabric along seam line is known as seam puckering problem. It is the
most common problem of the garments manufacturer which sewing the garments. The problem
is not the only concern of garments manufacturer, but also a concern of fabric finisher, sewing
machine manufacturer and sewing thread manufacturer. Thats why, today I would like to
discuss about the seam puckering problem in garments.C. Fabric Damage at the seam line: