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Trip Report : Zimbabwe

and Botswana September 2012

Once again our family decided on another trip to previously visited Botswana and
Zimbabwe.Our main goal on this trip is to do as much wild camping and be self
sufficient where we can.If any fishing can be done,it would be a bonus.We would prefer
to be away from the crowds and solitude camping would be a bonus.We have been to
Botswana several times before and decided to incorporate a "dip" into Zimbabwe.We
have not seen Hwange National Park for 13 years and thought we would like to see this
gem of a park.The booking details were followed as mentioned elsewhere on this
forum.I did not find it particularily difficult to book Hwange Picnic sites at all.Booking the
Zambezi National Park was a little more difficult as I did not get confirmatory e-mails.We
paid the Hwange booking in full prior to departure.The Zambezi National Park was not
paid at all and this did leave me a little nervous.

Itenerary:

Pretoria to Elephant Sands (1 night)


Mandavu Dam,Hwange National Park (3 nights)
Ngweshla Picnic Site,Hwange National Park(3 nights)
Kandahar Campsite,Zambezi National Park,Victoria Falls(3 nights)
Senyati Safari Camp,Kasane(4 nights)
Woodlands Stop over,Francistown(1 night)

Total distance travelled 3427Km.


Party of 4 adults and one child(4 years old)
Vehicles : 2007 model Toyota Land Cruiser 76 SW towing a Conqueror Comfort Trailer
2009 model Toyota Hilux 3.0 D4D towing a Echo 4 Trailer

Border post used:Martins Drift.The border crossing was uneventfull on either side.

Elephant Sands: 1 night


Arrived at Elephant Sands at 16:00.Approx 40 elephant were at the drinking hole in front
of the boma when we arrived.The elephant seemded to come and go the whole
night.You have to book the chalets at least 2-3 weeks in advance to avoid
dissapointment.At P650 per Chalet I do think it's quite reasonable.The supper was
basic,but very nice.This was not included in the room rate.There is a fully stocked
bar.The swimming pool was a very welcome sight,especially for our daughter.Odd
swimming only 20-30m away from elephant......
Hunters Road:My mission was to travel from Nata to Pandamatenga via the Hunters
Road.I was advised against this as the.Hunting in Botswana is under scrutiny and there
has been a call to stop all form of hunting.The concession holders are quite jittery and
some have been known to stop a convoy and remove keys from ignitions.Some have
even called the BDF to escort you to where you came from.As the hunting season had
been extended to the end of September I did not feel the need to test my luck so
avoided the road.We did however enter at a point approx 45Km south of Pandamatenga
just north of the Nunga river and followed an amazing 23Km road to join the Hunters
Road.This road is clearly marked on T4A.Hunters road was like a clear cutline and
traveling this road was quite easy.Game spotted along the
way:Elephant,zebra,warthog,impala and Roan.We arrived at the Pandametenga border
post at 11:00am.

Pandametanga border post was a pleasure.Small little border post.Officials on either


side were really friendly.After 30min we had crossed both sides.Took the very
corrugated road through the Matetsi Safari area.Alot of game and not as skittish as
previously reported.Booked in at Robins camp.Allthough slighly delappidated,there was
some signs of improvements undertaken.Newly thatched roof etc.Paid park entry fee
and headed towards Mandaviu Dam

Mandavu Dam: 3 nights


We chose this picnic site above Masuma and Deteema.Booking was done more than a
year in advance.As you drive into the campsite you can clearly see why the capmp is
popular.You have a great view over the Mandavu Dam.The opposite bank is quite
far,but the animals frequent the dam during the day.We counted more than 300 elephant
at one time(many different
herds).Lion,Buffalo,Elephant,Roan,Sable,Kudu,Impala,Hippo,Waterbuck,Crocodiles and
alot of water birds were spotted from the comfort of the picnic site.When we arrived we
were greeted by the two camp attendants Knowledge and Thulani.Great was our
dissapointment when we had to share the camp with two other parties who had booked
the site a long time ago.They were however leaving the next morning early and we did
not kick up a fuss.After my enquiry to Knwoledge about the privacy he answered that
the site sleeps 12 people and they reserve the right to book more than one party on the
campsite.He did let me know that we were the only camper there the following two
nights.The night life and noises were amazing.There was no water for the
showers.Drinking water was carted by land cruiser bakkie once while we were
there.The toilets were flushed with the drinking water.The camp attendants were helpfull
and friendly but seemded to spend their days fishing in the dam in front of the
campsite.Mandavu Dam is a popular stop-over for other visitors to the park.There were
frequenly people stopping and using the braai facilities.When we arrived the other
campers had set up camp under the the few sparse trees SO we had a limited choice
on where to camp.We eventually chose a Sheppards Tree and it really turned out great
as we were further away from where day visitors could bother you.

Mandavu Dam plus point:Scenery is amazing.Night noises truly African.Flush


tolets.Drinking water available,fire wood provided.Fireplace cleaned
Mandavu Dam negative points:Double bookings,day visitors,no showers
Masuma - Nice water hole,close to campsite.Campsite has very litte shade.Traffic
straight through camp to Main Camp.Deteema-Nice waterhole.Little dry
though.Showers,running water.Old delappidated wooden fence,nice and rustic.No
shade.
We spend one whole day just in camp observing the animals drinking water and found
this quite relaxing following a long hard days traveling.The gamedrive to Sinamatella
was good.Sad to see the old delapidated buildings.We found the Salt Springs drive very
interesting.

Ngweshla Picnic Site: 3 nights


After a long 6 hours journey towards Main Camp on a very corrugated and broke-up tar
surface we arrive at the most amazing campsite in my opinion.Vincent Nkomo an
elderly man was expecting us.He greeted us with waving hands and opende the side
entrance into his campsite.He is clearly VERY proud of his site.The place is spotlessly
clean.Ideally situated on a flat surface under several huge Acacia aeriloba thorn
trees.There is a shower,male and female flush toilets with a nice kitchen scullary.The
waterhole is a slight distance from the campsite(estimated 100m) but all the animals
can be easliy seen from the campsite.The fence around the campsite is very
delapidated and patchy is spots.Vincent has tried his darndest to mend the fence.The
fence would provide no protection against predators.It did however look quite rustic and
it did not bother us in the least.Gameviewing in the Ngweshla area was
tremendous.Lion seen at Kennedy 2.Elephant ever present and often come down to the
waterhole at the campsite in large numbers.Large groups of Roan and Sable are seen
during the day frequenting the same waterhole.Giraffe,Kudu,wildebees and warthog are
ever present.The drives around Ngweshla are quite scenic and gives you an idea of the
fauna and flora of the region.I do think that more animals are spotted at the comfort of
your very owm campsite though.We decided to take a drive to Main Camp.There is
more going on at this camp than Sinamatella and Robins.Clearly this is the"Main
Camp".Restaurant is functional with ala-carte menu,the shop is open and offered a
variety of good.Newly thatched buildings and we had the impression that things were
maintained and cleaned.When we arrived back at Ngweshla Vincent had cleaned our
fireplace,provided us with new firewood and had done our dishes.He even did our
laundry.He did not allow us to do anything.He even surprised me by washing my Cruiser
while we were at Main camp.Vincent was awake at 06:00am raking the campsite clean.I
then realised that there was no patch comparing this "old wise" camp attendant to the
two at Mandavu...
After 3 days at Ngweshla we headed for Vic Falls.Out of the park in two hours.Stopped
once by police on the way to Vic Falls.Only asking for drivers licence.Not intimidating at
all.My dad had to pay a $10USD fine as he did not have a silver reflector on the front
bumper.Receipt was given.Vic Falls we stopped and stocked up with Zambezi's.Tok
road staright to the entrance gate of the Zambezi National Park.

Ngweshla plus points:Perfect setting.Brilliant camp attendant.Water for shower and


flush toilet.Fire wood provided.Good game viewing
Ngweshla bnegative points:The Lister can be heard the whole night long as the
borehole for the dam is near.

Kandahar Campsite: 3 nights


ALOT has changed since 2005 when I last visited this little gem of a park.We were the
only visitors in several days at that time.Now the park entrance is manned by several
people.Day visitors frequent this beautiful park.Two campsites are on lease to private
concessions(Mpala Jena and Chomunzi) and are not available for self drive tourists.We
were allocated Kandahar fishing camp.We were considering changing to Chundu
2(20Km from the gate).Either campsites would have turned out to be good
choices.Large shady trees on the bank of the Zambezi.Chundu 2 is probably one of the
better campsites I have seen in a long time.There are no facilities whatsoever and
campers have to be completely self sufficient.Animals seen in and around Zambezi
National Park-large herd of buffalo,several herds of elephant.All commin game-
Kudu,Sebra,Waterbuck,Baboon,Sable and Impala are seen very often.There are
several gamedrive loops along the river front.The first 10-15 Km has 25 picnic sites wich
were very popular on Sundays.The park seemed quite busy over weekends and we
even had a couple "gate crash" or private campsite.As they were an eldely couply of
Eastern origin and language was an issue we let them at peace and let them pack up
when it was their time to leave the park.Fishing right in front of Kandahar Campsite was
good.I caught and landed a 4,2Kg tigerfish right in front of our campsite.Released the
beautful fish to fight another day.Several other small tigers were caught around 1-1,5 Kg
range.We spent one day on a gamdrive along the river front.The further we went,the
more skittish the game became.Took several loops inland.Interesting and varying
broadleaf miombo woodlands and mopane forests with some river beds seen.It was an
odd feeling being only 20-40Km(depending on where you were in the park) from Victoria
falls BUT with this feeling of remoteness.I really enjoyed Zambezi National park.When
we packed up we decided to have breakfast at A'Zambezi River Lodge prior to our
journey to Kasane.An excellent idea.$10 USD per person for a great breakfast.Alot of
tourists at this nice lodge.I also decided to take a helicopter flight over Victoria
falls.What an experience.really worth the $130 USD.Gives a person great perspective of
this marvelous wonder.Quick visit to the Curio shop did see us on the road to
Kazangula.We were stopped by police just before the border.Also check drivers
licence.My trailers light connector socket had pulled out and was damaged as it was
dragged on the tar road.The police officer looked at it and said it was fine for me to
continue.Border crossing on either side was painless and quicky we were in Kasane
doing meat shopping at Spar and Choppies.
Kandahar plus points-camping right on the Zambezi does not get better than this.The
setting is ideal.Good fishing right in front of yur campsite.
Kandahar negative points-little too close to the entrance and may seem busy over
weekends.Absolutely no facilities.Have to be self sufficient.
Chundu 2 plus point unbeleivablelocation.Remote.Good gameviewing in the area.
Chundu 2 negative points:Terrible road to campsite.No facilities.River fishing not easy
as the site is set up on a high bank and the river is a distance from campsite.
The other campsites are not recommended as they either have little shade and not
great view of the river.

Senyati Safari Lodge: 4 nights


After stocking up we took the road to Oom Louw Barnards Senyati Lodge.After booking
in we were allocated a campsite with quite sparse shade.,Every campsite has its own
ablution facility with donkey and hot shower as well as a flush toilet.There is a A-frame
kitchen with wash basin.This was luxury.The bar is amazinginly built on stilts
overlooking a waterhole.Buffalo and elephant frequented the drinking hoie.The bar
works on an honesty basis:selfserve from behind counter and write your order in a
book.
The next few days we spent in Kasane with our friend,Rob Price fishing the Chobe and
Zambezi Rivers.We landed several tigerfish in the 2-3,5Kg range.Lost at least 6 tigers
near 4,5Kg mark(real fishermans tale..).One of the days we decided to go on a river
cruise upstream into the Chobe reserve.I paid the P600 pula entry fee for 2 vehicles,5
South Africans and one Botswanan resident.After the 3 hours boat cruise we decided to
go on the river cruise as we had paid the entry fee into the park anyway.Nice
leopard,lion,buffalo and elephant sightings.The staff at Sidudu gate reception advised
me to travel the river route up-stream in one direction and return along the main road in
opposite direction.They are doing this to try and decrease the decongestion and traffic
in the river front.Senyati Safari Lodge is conveniently situated a 15km away from
Kasane.It feels as if you are removed from the rush and busstle of Kasane.Really
recommend this stay and would certainly stay here again.We did the drive to Kasane
via Hunters Road and found quite a lot of game.Nice scenery along the Lesomo
valley.The road soutwards we went as far as Lesoma village.Started moving out of the
valley and trees were not as abundant and large and the animal sightings were getting
fewer.I still would like to do the whole hunters road one day.I feel the road is filled with
history and mystery.The sections that I have done has just whet my appetite.
Senyati Safari plus points:Conveniently close to Kasane BUT still with a remote and wild
feel.Each campsite has its own ablution and kitchen.Lovely bar and great elephant
sightings.
Senyati negative points-little shade for campers.Can become quite busy.Access road is
thick sand and is corrugate,must take it easy with towing vehicles.

Woodlands Stop over:

After 4 days in Kasane at Senyati it was time to turn Southwards(homewards


bound).We took the same route to Francistown.Arrived at a very dry Woodlands by
15:00.Very comfortable chalets.Really luxury compared to our 13 nights camping.
Woodlands is a comfortable stop over.Nothing remarkably special.Made our trip home
the following day shorter.We had booked Woodlands way in advance and had paid the
required 50% deposit.
Wooldands plus point:Convenient distance for stop over.Nice clean well appointed
chalets.
Woldsnads negative points:You have a distinct feeling that the wild part of the holiday
is behind you and you are getting close to civilization now.Nothing remarably special.

Summary:

I have come to realize that a well planned and well researched holiday goes a long way
in making a holiday trouble free and without any incidences..I found the distance
travelled were not too far.the border crossings were without any incident.Police and
other officials were friendly and not once were we bribed.The highligt to me was
Zimbabwe.The animals were more abundant than expected.There was a generalized
feeling that the people were friendly and doing whatever they could and were
welcoming tourists back into their country.I will be back

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