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Archaeological investigation in India begins conventionally with the interest of Europeans. But
Indias own historical texts reveal examples of indigenous, curiosity-driven fieldwork as early as
the sixteenth century. Describing the systematic search for lost sacred images and sites in places
associated with Krishnas earthly pastimes, the author makes a spirited case for regarding this
activity as real archaeology, comparing it with todays heritage projects.
Keywords: India, Vrindavan, Hindu, indigenous archaeology, Vaishnava
Introduction
Histories of archaeology by Western scholars routinely say that archaeology began in India
with the reports of European travellers of the sixteenth century. Trigger (1989: 181) says,
Archaeological research in India began in a colonial setting. . . . European travellers began to note
ancient monuments as early as the sixteenth century. Even Indian scholars have accepted this
perception of the history of archaeology in India. About the writings of the early European
travellers, Chakrabarti (1988: 1) says, Without doubt these records constitute the first group
of archaeological writings on India. But Indian historical texts and oral traditions reveal a
parallel indigenous archaeological tradition, involving the excavation of lost sacred images
and the recognition of sacred landscape features.
Bhaktivedanta Institute, 9710 Venice Blvd. # 5, Los Angeles, CA 90034, USA (Email: mcremo@cs.com)
antiquity 82 (2008): 178188
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Michael A. Cremo
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Braj Mandal. According to the Skanda Purana, the area was overgrown with forest, and
the pastime places of Krishna were lost. The sage Shandilya showed Vajranabha the locations
of Krishnas pastimes, and to commemorate them Vajranabha established shrines housing
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images of Krishna. Over the course of time, many of the locales, shrines and images were
lost again and later rediscovered.
Whether or not one accepts the account of Vajranabha in the Skanda Puranas Bhagavata-
mahatmya section (according to modern scholarly opinion it is a fairly late interpolation),
the identification of the Braj Mandal with Vajranabha and Krishna is recorded in other
documents. According to Entwistle (1987: 60), the core of the Vajranabha story is found in
the Mahabharata, a Sanskrit epic that modern scholars say reached its final form between
500 BC and AD 200. As for Krishna, Megasthenes, a Greek ambassador to the court of
the Indian king Chandragupta Maurya in the late fourth century BC, wrote in his Indika:
Herakles was worshiped by the inhabitants of the plainsespecially the Sourasenoi, an Indian
tribe possessed of two large cities, Methora and Kleisobara and who had a navigable river,
the Jobares, flowing through its territories. Bryant (2003: xvii-iii) notes, There seems little
reasonable doubt (and almost all scholars agree) that the Sourasenoi refers to the S urasenas, a
branch of the Yadu dynasty to which Kr..sn.a belonged; Herakles refers to Kr..sn.a, or Hari-Kr..sn.a;
Methora to Mathura, Kr..sn.as birthplace; ...and the Jobares to the Yamuna river, where Kr..sn.a
sported.
What form the worship of Krishna (Hari-Krishna, or Herakles) took is not specified,
but there could have been temples housing images of Krishna. Megasthenes tells us in
his descriptions of government officers in India that one of their duties was to maintain
temples. And Quintus Curtius (Bryant 2003: xviii) says that the front ranks of the Indian
army that confronted Alexander the Greats invading forces carried an image of Herakles
(Hari-Krishna).
The Indian emperor Ashoka (304-232 BC) converted to Buddhism, and under his
patronage Buddhism became dominant in northern India, including Mathura, and remained
dominant for hundreds of years. Worship of Hindu gods in Mathura diminished but did
not completely disappear. Some scholars interpret a first-century AD stone inscription
from Mathura as referring to a temple dedicated to Vasudeva (another name for Krishna),
and several stone figures of Krishna found in Mathura date to the time of the Kushana
dynasty (first and second centuries AD). Examples increase through the Gupta dynasty (AD
250-560). Sharma (1994) gives an overview of Krishna sculpture from Kushana and Gupta
times in the collection of the Mathura Museum. When Mahmud of Ghazni (AD 971-1030)
sacked Mathura early in the eleventh century, there were many Hindu temples, including
one large temple of Krishna. Cycles of Hindu temple construction and Muslim destruction
followed over the next few centuries.
Discoveries by Chaitanya
In the early sixteenth century, the bhakti movement of devotion to Krishna rose in north
India. A central figure of this movement was Chaitanya Mahaprabhu (1486-1534), who
appeared in Bengal (known as Gaudadesha). He is regarded by his followers as an avatar
of Krishna, or Vishnu. The followers of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu are known as Gaudiya
(Bengali) Vaishnavas. Their intense devotion to Krishna inspired a special interest in the
Braj Mandal, the place of Krishnas earthly pastimes. Chaitanya Mahaprabhu and other
Gaudiya Vaishnavas (and also Krishna worshippers of other Vaishnava sects) sought to
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revive the importance of the Braj Mandal as a place of pilgrimage. It was this revival,
especially among the Gaudiya Vaishnavas, that had an archaeological component, involving
the deliberate search for lost images of Krishna and lost landscape features.
In 1514, Chaitanya Mahaprabhu journeyed to Vrindavan to find lost pastime places
and images, as recorded in the Chaitanya Charitamrita of Krishnadasa Kaviraja Goswami
(1615) and the Bhakti Ratnakara of Narahari Chakravarti (completed c . 1710-1730).
That Chaitanya Mahaprabhu came to the Braj Mandal to restore its importance as a holy
place is also accepted by modern scholars. Haberman (1994: 36) says, The development of
Braj was clearly inspired by charismatic Vaishnava leaders such as Chaitanya, Vallabha, and
others, and was carried out by their diligent followers. A modern Indian scholar, Shrivatsa
Goswami, wrote (1996: 269) that Chaitanya entered the northern wilds of Mathura and
there he discovered, reidentified, revealed and created the heart of Vraja [Braj]. The accounts
of Chaitanyas activities in the Chaitanya Charitamrta demonstrate their deliberate and
arguably archaeological nature.
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(Chaitanya Charitamrita, Madhya-lila 18.3-5). It is significant that Chaitanya began his
search at Arit-gram (the modern Aring-gram), a village near Govardhan Hill. According
to traditional sources, Krishna and Radha had excavated their respective kunds just after
Krishna had killed the bull-demon Arishta. Growse (1883: 83) said Aring is a contraction
for Arishta-ganw, which, relying on local etymologies, he characterised as the scene of the
combat with the bull [Arishta]. The combat with Arishta is related in the Bhagavata Purana,
a work traditionalists assign an age of about 5000 years. Recent scholarship (Bryant 2003:
xvi) suggests the extant text can be dated to the Gupta period, over 1000 years before
Chaitanyas arrival in the Braj Mandal.
After Chaitanya rediscovered the kunds, one of his followers, Raghunatha Dasa Goswami,
excavated them and developed them as places of pilgrimage. According to a longstanding
local account, Raghunatha found ancient images of Radha and Krishna while excavating
Radha Kunda (Mahanidhi Swami 1995: 73). The images found by Raghunatha were
installed in the first temple at Radha Kunda, now called the Purana Radha Krishna temple
(purana means old). The discovery of the images suggests that the recovered landscape
features were actually ancient kunds, because it is a Hindu practice to dispose of damaged or
polluted sacred images, in kunds or other bodies of water. It is likely, also, that endangered
images might be hidden in kunds. Early in the twentieth century, during a civic project
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for cleaning kunds, over 600 sculptures were found and given to the Mathura Museum
(Sharma 1994: 34).
According to traditional histories, the excavation of Radha Kund and Shyama Kund by
Raghunatha was not the first. Much earlier they had been discovered and excavated by
King Vajranabha. Brahmacari (1999: 31), repeating local accounts, says, After excavating
ama-kunda, it is said king Vajranabha constructed an eight foot high and sixty foot square
Sy ..
sandstone boundary wall around the original kun.d.a, wide enough for people to walk along.
When Sy ama-kunda is periodically emptied for cleaning, or sometimes during the hot summer
..
months when the water level goes down, this sandstone structure can be clearly seen. Brahmacari
(1999: 36) gives a photograph of this feature. This again suggests that Chaitanya reidentified
a real landscape feature, an ancient kund that was restored by Raghunatha Goswami.
For the purpose of this paper, which is to demonstrate that some indigenous archaeological
work was carried out by Chaitanya and his followers, it is not necessary to assume that the
kund, or the structures and images found in it, were actually connected with Vajranabha. It
is sufficient to show it is likely that old landscape features and images were recovered, and
that this was recorded in texts (like Chaitanya Charitamrita) and/or preserved in local oral
tradition. How these particular indigenous archaeological discoveries relate to the traditional
history of the Braj Mandal is another question. Even in modern scientific archaeology, initial
attributions of objects to certain makers or times may change, yet it remains a fact that
genuinely old objects or features were recovered.
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throughout India. One of the oldest is in the collection of the Mathura Museum (D-47). It
was found at Gatashram Tila in Mathura. Vaudeville (1980: 6) says these images are from
the Gupta era (third-sixth century AD). According to Vaudeville (1980: 6), these ancient
images are different from later images in several ways. First the later images show Krishna
standing in the open and holding the hill over his head, whereas in the earlier images Krishna
is shown within the hollow of a mountain cave, holding his hand up out of the cave. Second,
in the later images, the mountain is resting on the upraised little finger of Krishnas left hand,
whereas in the earlier images the palm of the raised left hand is upturned with the extended
five fingers pressed together, with the palm just about parallel to the plane of the ground.
Third in the later images, Krishna is sometimes in a dancing pose, with one foot flat on the
other ground, and the other touching the ground only with the tip of the large toe, whereas
in the Gupta era images Krishna is standing with both feet flat on the ground. And, finally,
the Gupta era images show Krishna with his right hand on his hip, whereas this feature is
not always present in the later images. Vaudeville (1980: 6) says that in Shri Nathji these
characteristics of ancient Mathura iconography are preserved.
Debate
Nanda). During my visit in November 2005, a temple priest, Shri Hari Vallabh Goswami,
told me that beneath the temple the cave where the images were found is still there, but
only the temple priests are allowed to enter.
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museum at Mathura, had a chance to examine it and noted underneath the black patina it had
acquired from repeated burning of incense and application of oil, that it is carved from the spotted
red sandstone characteristic of early Mathura sculpture. The Kushana period in Mathura goes
back to the first and second centuries AD. The attribution of the Baldeo Balaram image to
the Kushana period tends to confirm that Vaishnava saints, at the time of Chaitanya and
Vallabha, were recovering genuinely old images. The image of Balaram at Baldeo features a
hood of serpent heads, as does a second-century AD sandstone Kushana image of Balaram
in the collection of the Mathura Museum (no.14.406, Sharma 1994: Figure xvii). It came
from the Kachahrighat well in Mathura city.
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Michael A. Cremo
to Bhakti Ratnakara, Krishna revealed to Rupa that the image was to be found on the
Gomatila hill. Rupa assembled some villagers and conducted an excavation that led to the
discovery of the image. This occurred in 1534. Later, a local Hindu king named Man Singh
built a large stone temple for Govindadeva. This temple was partially destroyed by Muslims
at the time of Aurangzeb, and the Govindadeva image was moved to Jaipur, where it is still
worshipped today. The image is a muralidhara form, with Krishna holding a flute. Such
muralidhara images of Krishna can be found in India going back to the twelfth century AD
(Bhattacharya 1996: 61-2).
Man Singh, who built the temple for Govindadeva, himself discovered sacred images
by folk archaeological methods. One of these was Shila Mata, an image of Shivas consort
Durga, in the form of Mahishasuramardini Durga as the killer (mardini) of a demon
(asura) who had taken the form of a buffalo (mahisha). Asher (1996: 220) says the location
of the image in a river was revealed to Man Singh in a dream. Afterwards, he brought
the image to his palace in the Amer Fort, in Rajasthan, and built a small temple for it.
Asher says (ibid.) the image appears to be in the Pala-Sena style, dating to about the twelfth
century. Although not from the Braj Mandal, this image provides another example of a
recovered object being substantially older than the time of discovery, and adds credibility to
the archaeological discoveries made by Chaitanya and his followers.
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he met Gaudiya Vaishnavas such as Sanatan Goswami and Krishnadasa Brahmachari, who
accepted him as a disciple. Narayan Bhatt is credited with rediscovering dozens of Krishnas
pastime places, including: (1) four important ponds around Govardhan Hill: Manasi Ganga,
Kusum Sarovara, Govindakund, and Chandra Sarovara; (2) the birthplace of Krishna in
Mathura; (3) the sites of Krishnas early childhood pastimes in Gokul, including the house
of his parents Nanda and Yashoda; (4) the sites where Krishna killed the many-headed
Kaliya serpent and the horse-demon Keshi; (5) Barshana, the town of Krishnas beloved
Radha; (6) the place of Krishnas secret forest meetings with Radha; and (7) the locations of
the 12 forests of the Braj Mandal. He laid out the Braj Mandal pilgrimage route that is still
followed today.
Narayan Bhatt excavated several images (Haberman 1994: 59-60). The location of the
Balaram image at Unchagaon was revealed to him in a vision. Narayan Bhatt gathered some
villagers, and with his crew excavated the image of Balaram, for which he built a temple
in Unchagaon, where the image remains today. The prakata-sthala, or place of the images
discovery, is said to be at the base of a tree that grows at the rear of the temple. Once Narayan
Bhatt was climbing a hill at Barshana, south of Unchagaon. In a vision, Radha revealed to
him that images of her and Krishna were buried on the hill. Narayan Bhatt excavated the
images and installed them in a temple on the top of the hill.
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Michael A. Cremo
and restore this heritage resource for the benefit of Krishna worshippers. Using the term
archaeology for their activities is thus appropriate.
In this paper I have mentioned only a few of the many examples of the recovery of sacred
images and landscape in the Braj Mandal not to speak of other locales in every part of India
(Vaudeville 1980: 29-30, note 30). The scope of sustained archaeological activity carried
out in the Braj Mandal by the followers of Chaitanya, and Vallabha, and other Vaishnava
teachers, is impressive. It was an extensive indigenous archaeological undertaking, carried
out deliberately and systematically. The work of rediscovery of lost sites and images took
place over an entire region, including a major urban centre and many towns and villages
as well as rural locations. In his Vraja Bhakti Vilasa, Narayan Bhatt enumerated hundreds
of linked sites within the Braj Mandal, a symbolic lotus with a circumference of 284km
(Haberman 1994: 59). Some of the Braj Mandal Goswamis employed a methodology much
like that of modern classical or medieval archaeologists in Europe, in that historical texts
were used to guide archaeological exploration. The purpose of this extensive indigenous
archaeological work was not simply to collect artefacts and expose sites, but rather to bring
them back to life, so that people could experience what it was (and is) like to be with
Krishna in the Braj Mandal. The work was one of restoring social memory of the earthly
Braj Mandal of the past, thus facilitating present access to the eternal Braj Mandal, which
the earthly Braj Mandal replicates.
Conclusion
The claim that there was no archaeology or archaeological literature in India prior to the
coming of the Europeans relies on definitions of archaeology that prevent recognition of
cognate activities in other cultures. I propose we should define archaeology in such a way
as to include all human cognitive engagement with material objects that the discoverers
Debate
understood as having been made by or otherwise associated with past human or humanlike
beings. I am not claiming that the recovery of the lost images and sacred sites of the Braj
Mandal and modern archaeology are exactly the same. What I am proposing is that there
is enough of a resemblance to warrant including both within the boundaries of the term
archaeology.
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