Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017

EAU DE COLOGNE B. By Composition

Prepared by: Alain Krister R. Dee a. Splash: 1-3%, Usually < 3%
b. Eau de Cologne: 3-8%, usually 5%
INTRODUCTION c. Eau de Toilette: 10%
Fragrances and perfumes have been used at all times and for d. Eau de Perfume: 15%
different purposes, throughout history. e. Perfume Extract: 30%
Important prerequisite for the duties of a good perfume maker: a
good nose. Also important: Good memory for smells and artistic Meaning of toilet water? Diluted with water
sensitivity, feel for aesthetics, and comprehensive knowledge of Role of Fixatives
the individual scents and fragrances and knowledge of their o Stability
behavior in composition o Anchors fragrance to foundation
Eau de Cologne: Dilute perfume (called cologne in English), o Blending
introduced by Jean Marie Farina in Cologne, Germany. It was a
modification of a popular formula made by Paul Feminis. TONES OF PERFUME
Water of cologne: Believed to have power to ward off bubonic 1. Head Note/Top
plague. a. 15 to 25%
Now: Cologne is a generic term for scented formulations in typical b. Usually citrus
concentration of essential oils. Used by both men and women 2. Heart Note/ Middle
a. 30 to 40%
CLASSIFICATION OF PERFUME 3. Base Note/Wood
A. By Source a. 40-55%
a. Natural Oil b. Animal scents, fixatives
i. Plant Fragrance Note: Arranged in increasing molecular weight (Top Note has lightest
Largest group of fragrance MW para siya unang maamoy; Base note has heaviest MW)
Methods to Obtain Essential Oils
o Distillation: Use of heat SCENT FAMILIES
Water Distillation: For dried, non-injured 1. Aldehyde Perfumes: Often used for head notes
plant samples 2. Green Perfumes
Direct Steam Distillation: For fresh plants 3. Flowery Perfumes: Oldest and largest group of perfumes
Water and Steam Distillation: For either 4. Herbal Spice Perfumes: Forefather of mens colognes
dried or fresh substances that may be 5. Oriental Perfumes: Heavy, sweet, strong
injured by boiling
o Pressing or Ecuelle a Piquer INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS
No heat; Puncture oil glands MATERIAL FUNCTION
o Enfleurage Rectified Ethanol vehicle, solvent
Fresh petals are deposited onto a layer of Muscol 2 fixative
preservative-treated and odorless fat in a Fragrance fragrance
wood-framed glass plate Solvent Propylene Glycol solubilizer
extraction Vacuum distillation at 20C Sodium Lactate co-solvent, preservative
Produces: Absolu de chassis (pure solvent, to reduce
Deionized Water
aromatic oil); Pomade (oil-fat mixture) pungeant odor
o Extraction
Uses organic solvents METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
Produces: Concrete (solid); Resinoid Add gtt
Examples: Olives, sesame seeds Ethanol
Fixatives + by gtt.
ii. Animal Fragrances Propylene Glycol
Fragrance
Also serves as fixatives Na Lactate
Expensive
Musk: secretion of male musk deer QS
Civet: fecal odor, civet cat
Castoreum: secretion of beaver Chill overnight
Ambergis: pathological excretion of the sperm
Filter
whale
b. Synthetic Oil: Example is Eugenol (isolated from clove oil)
isoeugenol vanillin Cologne

1
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
Separate the fixatives and fragrances from ethanol + Part B.
propylene glycol + sodium lactate because you already want
the fixatives and fragrances to blend with each other
Addition by drops: For uniformity and to prevent overwhelm
Chill the next day: To lessen cloudiness, and to prevent heat
degradation
Aging: Allows transesterification and acetal formation

ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS

1. What is the basis of the differences in the classification of
perfume, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne?
Splash: 1-3%, usually less than 3%
Eau de Cologne: 3-8%, usually 5%
Eau de Toilette: 10%
Eau de Perfume: 15%
Perfume Extract: 30%

2. What is the role of fixative in perfumed preparations? What is its

chemical composition?
Stability
Anchors fragrance to foundation
Blending
Usually animal composition
In the formulation: Muscol 2 (N,N-diethyl-3-methylbenzene)

3. What is the wisdom of adding the fragrance drop by drop in

preparing the cologne?
Uniformity
Prevent overwhelming smell

4. What is the appropriate packaging for the product?

Class 3 Glass (Regular Soda Lime Glass)
o If incorrect glass is used: Alkali from glass may be
released, altering color and scent of the product
Tightly packed containers
Atomizer
Stored away from light and in a cool place to prevent
degradation
QUIZ QUESTIONS
Part A.
1. Most commonly used perfume family? Answer: Fatty aldehyde
group or citrus group
2. Two methods of extracting natural oils
3. Two methods of extracting natural oils
4. Concentration of fragrance in Eau de Cologne
5. Substance at base note? Answer: Musk, etc.
6. Function of fixatives.
7. 2 Processes that occur during aging
8. 2 Processes that occur during aging
9. RFIS behind chilling
10. Function of Sodium Lactate
HAND AND BODY LOTION
Prepared by: Christine Bernadette Bautista
INTRODUCTION
Moisturizers are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially
designed to make external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and
more pliable, by increasing its hydration (water content), or by reducing
evaporation. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols as well as
artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc. may be
part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually
are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic
uses.
Moisturizing creams, gels, and lotions are applied for the relief of the
signs and symptoms of dry skin leaving it soft and smooth. The skin
scales become more pliable and transparent and therefore less visible
and the appearance of the skin shows a dramatic improvement.

Moisturizers prevent and treat dry skin, protect sensitive skin, and
improve skin tone and texture and mask imperfections.

2
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
SKIN EMOLLIENTS: fill cracks between conreocytes
Layers of the Skin OCCLUSIVE: Trap water in the stratum corneum
1. Stratum basale- keratinocytes o Deposits an impermeable layer of water-insoluble oliy
2. Stratum spinosum material on the skin surface
3. Stratum granulosum o Oily materials mimic the effect of the natural lipid bilayers of
4. Stratum lucidum- palm and soles the skin to restrict evaporation from the surface and to seal
5. Stratum corneum- dead keratinocytes NMF/ humectants in corneocytes

Types of Cells Sensory Properties

1. Keratinocytes- Mature corneocytes (90%) 1. Rub-In
2. Merkel Cells Ease at which a product disappears on application.
3. Langerhans Cells- antigen presenting cells Function of initial viscosity, viscosity change under sheer,
4. Melanocytes compatibility of oil phase with skin, amount of water, and
*Corneocytes- water- resistant dead cells whether the water Is the dispersed or continuous phase.
2. Greasiness: Slick or slippery feel
Functions of the Skin 3. Tackiness: Slightly adhesive or gummy to the touch
1. Protective shield against physical and chemical injuries 4. Slip: Expresses how the product glides across the skin
2. Regulator of body temperature (Sweating) 5. Break: Initial Slip
3. Barrier to water loss 6. Moisturized After-Feel: Highly important factor for a moisturizer
4. Detoxification system
5. Early defense mechanism against foreign materials (Langerhans Characteristics of Good Moisturizing Lotion
cells capture foreign materials and transport to lymph nodes) 1. Non-irritant
6. Sensory organ (nerve endings and Merkel cells- sense of touch) 2. Easy to spread over the skin (Good spreadability)
7. Wound repair 3. Easy to rub without soaping up
8. Physical appearance (skin condition) 4. Able to leave skin feeling soft rather than sticky (tackiness)
5. Pleasantly perfumed or no fatty base odor if not perfumed
Dry skin: Excessive water loss 6. Moisturized after-feel and soft skin feel
Transepidermal Water Loss: Evaporation of water in non-sweating 7. Good slip (non-gritty)
conditions
1. Chemical insults (ex. Alcohol) Classifications of Moisturizing Preparations
2. Mechanical damage 1. Day preparations
3. Sun exposure Light, oil in water emulsions
4. Humidity conditions High quality stearic acid as oil phase
Spread easily and rub into the skin quickly
Mechanism of Skin to Retain Water
Additives
1. Natural Moisturizing Factor
o Vitamins A,C, and E
a. Amino acids
o Proteins
b. Lactate
o Essential fatty acid
c. Formate
o AHAs
d. Oils
o Liposome
e. Sugars
2. Night Preparations
f. Urea
Water-in-oil emulsions
g. Pyrrolidone
2. Lamellar lipids- hydrophobic; slower passage of water Left on the skin overnight to provide vital nutrients to the skin
3. Complex structure- barrier to water loss; corneocytes are tightly which may have been lost during the day
packed 3. Hand and Body Lotions
Similar to day preparations (O/W)
LOTION Usually lotions and sometimes aerosol mousses rather than
Restore and maintain optimum hydration of the stratum corneum creams for the ease of application
o Achieved by increasing viscosity of water phase
Mechanism of Action o Use of carbomers and cellulose derivatives
HUMECTANTS: Increase water-holding capacity of s. corneum 4. All-Purpose Products
o External application of hygroscopic agents Can be used as moisturizers or cleansing creams on the
o Replace skins natural moisturizing factor that has been face, hands, and body
washed away or otherwise depleted All purpose milks: light texture and ease of spreading
o Attract water from inside to outside

3
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
5. Barrier Creams METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
Protective products
Prevent external materials from permeating the skin
6. Cosmetics Emulsion
O/W
o 10-30% oil
o 10-15% for lower viscosity emulsions
W/O
o 45-80% oil
o Greater release of medicaments, greater emolliency
Multiple emulsions
o Sustained-release
o To achieve greater stability for incompatible excipients
7. Moisturizing Gels
Provide cooling watery to the skin
Humectants and amino acids to mimic role played by natural
moisturizing factor QUALITY CONTROL TESTS
Organoleptic Evaluation: Appearance, Texture, Color, Odor, pH
Span 80: Oil-Soluble Emulsifier, W/O formulation, Low HLB
Tween 80: Water-soluble emulsifier, O/W formulation ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS
1. What are the methods of achieving skin moisturization?
See above
INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS 2. What are the properties of good moisturizing formulation?
See above
Ingredients Functional Category 3. What are the basic components of a moisturizing product?
a. Moisturizers
Mineral Oil Occlusive i. Humectant
ii. Emollient
Lanolin Emollient
iii. Occlusive
b. Emulsifying system
Emulsion Stabilizer
Cetyl Alcohol c. Water
A Structuring agent
d. Preservative
4. Describe the different classifications of moisturizing
Emulsion Stabilizer
Stearic Acid preparations?
Structuring agent
See above
Sorbitan Oleate Emulsifying agent (W/O) 5. Give the functions of the ingredients in the hand and body lotion?
See above
Gycerol Humectant
QUIZ QUESTIONS
Sorbitol 70% Solution Humectant NONE NOTED

Propylene Glycol Emulsifier BODY SCRUB

B Prepared by: Kriserla Paula dela Rosa
Triethanolamine
Methylisothiozolinone
Deionized water
C Fragrance
Alkalinizing agent
INTRODUCTION
Preservative Body hygiene is a careful balance between removing enough bacteria
to prevent diseases and body odour while leaving the skin barrier
Aqueous Vehicle undamaged. Skin care needs of the body includes moisturization, the
skin should also retain smoothness and luminosity.
Fragrance
Body scrubs are shower gels specially formulated to have the correct
density and especially viscosity so that they will suspend, usually by
use of a cross-polymer, small beads or particles which act as
exfoliating agent.

4
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
EXFOLIATION INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS
To exfoliate is to remove the surface in scales or laminae (Natural,
every 28 days). Exfoliation is characterized, based on its mechanism
Ingredients Functional Category
of action, into 3 categories:
1. Physical/ Manual (loofah or microdermabrasion) sand blast,
Deionized Water Solvent
mild suction via aluminum oxide, NaCl
One of the successful exfoliation processes is
Thickening Agent/ Viscosity
microdermabrasion. The novel technique utilizes a stream of Xanthan Gum
Enhancer
aluminum oxide, sodium bicarbonate, or sodium chloride crystals A
that functions by sandblasting skin under mild suction, which DMDM Hydantoin Preservative
serves to collect the aerosolized crystals and skin particulates for
disposal. Due to the perceived benefits of microdermabrasion by Propyl Paraben Preservative
patients and its success in dermatologist offices and spas/salons,
a home care market emerged. Home microdermabrasion kits Cetyl Alcohol Structuring Agent
incorporate the use of scrubs or exfoliating moisturizers made by
suspending physical particles, such as polyethylene beads or Structuring Agent, Fatty acid
apricot kernels, in a cream emulsion or gel; rather than providing Stearic acid
source for micelle
actual exfoliating devices. B
2. Chemical/ Keratolytic agents (Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid) starts Isopropyl Myristate Emollient
MOA at uppermost layer
3. Natural/ Exuviations (Alpha-hydroxy acids) AHAs increase Mineral Oil Occlusive
natural epidermal turnover; MOA at stratum dysjunctum (bottom-
most layer) C Triethanolamine Alkalinizing Agent
*Inducos Synthetic
D Glycerin Humectant
BENEFITS
Helps to physically remove dirt in cellular degree from the surface E Fragrance Fragrance
of skin
Provide the rejuvenated look Acidifying and Sequestering
F Citric acid, 10%
Stimulate the skin through a massage effect agent
Smoothen the skin surface
G Inducos Exfoliating agent
BASIC INGREDIENTS
See table METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
Additional notes:
o DMDM wide spectrum preservative
o Citric acid adjust total pH, prevent precipitation of metal
oxides
o Xanthan Gum natural thickener; will not thicken unless
neutralized
o HPMC (synthetic)
o Cocomidea foam stabilizer

QC TESTS
1. Test for Foaming Efficiency
The lifetime of single bubbles
The steady state/ The dynamic foam volume (Bikerman
method
The static foam test (Ross Miles static foam test)
2. Test for Cleaning Efficiency

5
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS 3. Thickening agents
1. Define exfoliation. Electrolytes
To exfoliate is to remove the surface in scales or laminae. Once the maximum concentration is reached, viscosity
Therefore, classical exfoliants are those agents that work at the decreases
skins surface causing removal of skin layers. 4. Humectants
2. What are the different categories of exfoliants based on the Used to prevent drying of preparations
mechanism of action? Give examples of agents involved. Examples:
3. What are the basic ingredients of a body scrub? o Glycerin
Exfoliating agent o Propylene glycol
Surfactants o Sorbitol
Moisturizers
Thickening agents 5. Foam Stabilizer
pH adjusting agents/buffering agent 6. Solvent
Miscellaneous (antibacterial, preservative, etc.) 7. Colorant and Fragrance
4. What are the characteristics of a good body scrub? Low color raw materials result in a base which is almost
Provides moisturization to the skin water white, capable of accepting reasonably high levels of
Non-irritating fragrance (up to 5%)
Non-stinging, especially for sensitive skin Coloring is best achieved using organic dyestuffs which give
Provides measurable anti-aging effects including skin brighter, cleaner shades than can be obtained using
smoothing, reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles inorganic pigments
Improved clarity, without causing irritation Dyestuffs, however, have stability problems
Spreadable
Easily rinsed (does not leave any residue) SOAP
Has skin feel Oldest product to be produced specifically as surfactant
Leaves a smooth, pleasant after feel when rinsed Any substance made from a mixture of natural oils and fats with
Exfoliants remain suspended in the formulation an alkali
Exfoliants or scrubbing agents are able to remove dead Product of the reaction of a fatty material and alkali to produce a
surface skin cells but does not cause skin lesions such as fatty acid soap which has surfactant properties
scratches which may be visible Basic Reaction:
5. What tests are performed to assess the surfactant formulations o C3H5(RCO2)3 + 3MOH 3RCO2M + C3H5(OH)3
efficiency? Neutral fat + alkali soap + glycerol

QUIZ QUESTIONS CLASSIFICATIONS OF SOAP

1. Define microdermabrasion 1. Soluble Soap
2. T/F Natural adult skin slightly acidic Metal radical is sodium, potassium, or ammonium
3. 1 example characterization of foams 2. Insoluble Metallic Soap
4. Chemical vs Natural in terms of MOA Radical is a heavy metal
5. Chemical vs Natural in terms of MOA Results to formation of hard water scum around the bath or
6. 1 component body scrub washbasin caused by calcium or magnesium soaps
7. T/F Inducos natural exfoliant 3. Other Metallic Soap
8. Triethanolamine neutralizes _______ aside from stearic acid Radical is zinc, lead, manganese, cobalt or tin
9. Function of citric acid May require a reaction at elevated temperatures or by
double decomposition with sodium or potassium soaps and
a salt of the relevant heavy metal
TRANSPARENT SOAP
Credits to: KMS Morano Buddy Notes FORMS OF SOAP
1. Solid
INTRODUCTION Mostly bar shaped
Basic Ingredients in Making Soaps For skin cleansing
1. Fat-oil 2. Liquid
The quality and color of the individual fats, oils or fatty acids 3. Paste
will have a direct effect on the color of the finished product 4. Others
Other oils used: tallow fatty acids a. Shaving Soaps
2. Alkali from lye b. Translucent Soaps
c. Transparent Soap

6
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
TYPES OF SOAP The transparent liquid soap is left undisturbed for a few minutes,
1. Shaving Soaps in order that all foreign materials may settle
Addition of caustic potash to the saponification process It is then cast into blocks or molds P and allowed to set
Softer soap base with lathering characteristics Molded product is cut to the required size of billet and pressed to
Normally produced from stearic acid and coconut oil and roughly its final shape
saponified with a mixture of caustic soda and caustic potash The tablets then have to be conditioned for up to 3 months before
Glycerin is also added to aid product texture and skin feel being packed off
2. Translucent Soap
Controlled by the addition of glycerin and other polyol CHEMICAL METHOD (aka SAPONIFICATION)
materials Saponify the oils and fats in situ and then add the combination of
More difficult to mold due to the surface texture of the glycerin and sugar required to stabilize the clear phase
extruded billets, and also that the shrinkage characteristics The transparent liquid soap is then cast into molds and allowed
are significantly different from those of opaque soaps to set
Fragrance is normally not higher than 1.5% as this can affect
translucency THREE VARIATIONS IN TRADITIONAL SOAP MAKING
3. Transparent Soap Cold Process reaction takes place at room temperature
Superfatted soap with high glycerin content Semi-Boiled using only little heat, reaction takes place at
Usually used for sensitive and normal-to-oily skin temperature not reaching boiling point
Considered to be transparent if you can read 14pt bold text Fully Boiled Most commonly employed because glycerin by-
through a inch thick slice of soap product can be easily separated
Made from the same solid fats as opaque soap but with extra
step in the manufacturing process SOAP BOILING
4. Detergents or Combination Bars 1. Kettle Boiling (aka Pan Boiling)
Solid bar with significantly reduced pH levels Traditional process of pan boiling in large open kettles
Require special process equipment Time consuming, requires large amounts of energy
Combination bars: 50:50 soap to detergent ratio Process:
5. Liquid Soaps and Handwashes o Initial boiling or preliminary saponification
o Formation of soap layer (aka neat soap): 65% real
METHODS OF MANUFACTURE OF SOAPS soap. ~35% water
Factors Fusion Method Chemical Method o Continuous boiling with careful addition of further
Convenience Labor-Intensive Convenient quantities of caustic soda: Ensures removal of excess
Time Time-Consuming Faster fat and other impurities
No special o Pan is allowed to stand to facilitate the complete
Packaging Film-Wrapped separation of the soap layer from the residual liquid
packaging
Clarity Excellent o Soap is further washed to remove excess salt
Cost Costly 2. Continuous Process
Has tended to be Favored by the smaller specialized producers
superceeded by Quicker, taking up less space and using less energy
Others Use of fatty acids in place of neutral fats
other product
variants Resulting base soaps tend to have characteristically
different odor profiles
FUSION METHOD (aka MELT METHOD) Process:
o Fats are converted into fatty acids and glycerin by high
pressure at 500C in a continuous, fat-splitting process
3. Base Using Vegetable Materials
Uses palm oil, palm kernel oil and coconut oil

Dissolve good-quality soap in alcohol (in B) with gentle heating

(given by water bath A) to form a clear solution which is then
colored and perfumed

7
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS QUIZ QUESTIONS
INGREDIENT FUNCTION 1. Definition soap in industry point of view
Corn Oil Fat/Oil Source 2. Definition transparency
Coconut Oil Fat/Oil Source 3. Correct addition: fats, alkali, ethanol
Castor Oil Fat/Oil Source 4. Correct addition: fats, alkali, ethanol
Stearic Acid Structuring/Hardening Agent 5. Correct addition: fats, alkali, ethanol
Ethanol Catalyst for Saponification
Sodium Hydroxide Saponifying Agent Fats
Sugar Clarifying Agent
Glycerin Clarifying Agent Alkali
Preservatives (Also chelating
agent, chelates calcium and
EDTA Ethanol
magnesium cations which
forms hard water)
Water Solvent
Soap
METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
6. Function stearic acid
7. Function sugar
8. Function oil
9. Why use filmwrap for packaging?
10. Opaque vs transparent soap

SHAMPOO
Prepared by: Catherine Joy Leao

INTRODUCTION
ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS
1. What is a transparent soap? (see types of soaps)
2. What are its advantages over regular soap?
Usually used for sensitive and normal to oily skin
Moisturizes and soften skin unlike regular soaps
Can be easily melted and shaped
High alcohol content maintains scent
SOAPS VS. SHAMPOOS
Does not dry skin
Does not leave residue
3. Describe how it is made
Fusion or Melt Method
Chemical or Saponification Method
Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt,
skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other
contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair
The goal is to remove the unwanted build-up without stripping out
so much as to make hair unmanageable
It is a surfactant when lathered with water which while cleaning
the hair and scalp, can remove the natural oils (sebum) which
lubricate the hair shaft
Shampooing is frequently followed by the use of conditioners but
comes at a cost; hair tends to collect dirt, styling products and
scalp flakes. Surfactants ship the sebum from the hair shafts and
thereby remover the dirt attached to it.
Both contain surfactants
Soaps- bonds to oils with such affinity that it removes too much if
used on hair
Shampoo- uses different class of surfactants balanced to avoid
removing too much oil from the hair
Soaps have sodium hydroxide as a component which is a strong
base and if you use soap for your hair, it will damage your hair
since hair is naturally acidic
Sodium hydroxide, when combined with calcium and magnesium
forms a white precipitate known as scum
When you use soap to clean your hair with hard water, it will form
a white precipitate that looks like a dandruff

8
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
HAIR CLEANSING METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
Undamaged hair has hydrophobic surface to which skin lipids 1. Heat A (Distilled Water) to 45 C. Disperse B (Xanthan Gum) into
(sebum) stick but water is initially repelled. The lipids do not come heated A. With vigorous agitation, continue to heat system to 60
off easily when hair is rinsed with plain water. C.
Anionic surfactants substantially reduce interfacial surface 2. Slowly blend in SLS. Heat with mixing to 70-75 C. Slowly blend
tension and allow for the removal of sebum from the hair shaft. Cocoamide DEA into batch. Mix until uniform, then cool to 40-45
Non-polar oily materials are removed during rinsing. There is also C with smooth agitation. Add Glycol Stearate.
considerable removal through a surfactant and oil roll up effect 3. Adjust formula to pH 5.5-6.5 with Citric Acid as needed.

Shampoo formulations seek to maximize the following ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS

characteristics: 1. What are the requirements of a shampoo
Easy rinsing To remove sebum and atmospherically-acquired soil or
Good Finish after washing hair pollutants from the hair and scalp
Minimal skin/eye irritation To remove the residues for previously applied hair
No damage to hair treatments, e.g. polymeric constituents from styling lotions
Feels thick and/or creamy and hair sprays
Pleasant fragrance To deliver an optimum level of foam to satisfy the
Low toxicity expectation of the user
Good biodegradability To leave the hair in a satisfactory condition after rinsing so
that it can be combed easily both in the wet and dry state
Slightly acidic (pH less than 7), since a basic environment
weakens the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in hair keratin To perform as a vehicle for the deposition of beneficial
materials onto the hair and scalp
Many shampoos are pearlescent To be non-toxic and non-irritating to the hair and scalp
This effect is achieved by addition of tiny flakes of suitable To be non-damaging to the tissues of the eye if inadvertently
materials, eg. Glycol distearate (wax), chemically derived from splashed.
stearic acid, which may have either animal or vegetable origins 2. How are shampoos classified?
a. Frequent Wash Formula
Conditioning shampoos Intended for daily use
Comprise of various combinations of cleansing surfactant and Has the lowest active concentration because the
conditioning agents sebum level on the hair must be balanced
Comprise an anionic cleansing surfactant in combination with a Too high an active concentration would remove the
conditioning agents sebum, in total with gross detrimental effect to the hair
Conditioning agents used in shampoo compositions are oily b. Conditioning Shampoos
materials such as: Have grown considerably in importance in recent years.
o Mineral oils Newer formulations claim to wash and condition in one
o Triglycerides (naturally occurring) operation, leaving the hair easy to comb, lustrous and
o Silicone polymers (naturally occurring) soft.
Conditioning agents are generally present in shampoo as Formulations of this type are complex, utilizing
dispersed hydrophobic emulsion droplets materials such as silicones and polyquaterniums.
Conditioning is achieved by the oily material being deposited onto Great deal of care has to be taken to ensure that build-
the hair resulting in the formation of a film. up on the hair is not excessive, and that silicone can be
Such compositions have a relatively low viscosity and may be released on to the hair at the appropriate moment
perceives to be low quality as a result during rinsing.
c. Premium Shampoo
INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS Thicken, balance or add volume to hair; volumizing
Material Function shampoo
Distilled Water Solvent Utilize higher surfactant levels and contain a variety or
Xanthan Gum Thickener conditioning and moisturizing ingredients (mod
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Main detergent silicones, wheat proteins, panthenol and natural
Cocamide DEA Foam booster extracts
Glycol Stearate Emulsifier
Citric Acid (50%) pH modifer
Fragrance, Color, Preservative
Methylparaben Preservative

9
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
d. Anti-dandruff Shampoos Pearlizers and Opacifiers
Designed to alleviate dandruff Provides silky sheen
Zinc pyrithione Does not contribute anything to the hair, only used for
o First scientifically based organic therapeutic agent its aesthetic appeal
to offer alleviation of dandruff Glycol distearate, pearl concentrates
o Extremely irritant Preservatives
o Water-insoluble Isothiazolines
Pyroctoneolamine Parabens
o less irritant than Zinc pyrithione pH Modifiers
o good aqueous solubility Isotonic Point: 5.6-6
o clear anti-dandruff formulae Citric Acid
e. Baby shampoo Foam Boosters and Stabilizers
Non-ionic surfactant Cocomide DEA
Extreme care: low irritancy is a major need Opacifiers
Used of non-ionic detergent: Polysorbate 20 Creamy Appearance
Does not contribute to the foaming capacity Glycol Stearate, Pearlizers
Balance between polysorbate 20 and PEG 600:
controls viscosity c. Functional Additives: Promote good condition of hair
f. Medicated shampoo Polyquarterniums
Licealiz: pediculoside Silicone Derivatives
Triclosan: for hairfall and dandruff due to Malassezia o Dimethicone copoloyols
ovalis o Copolymers of dimethyl siloxane
g. 2-in-1 Shampoo o Ethylene oxide
combination of shampoo and conditioner o Amodimethicones
Palmolive Protein and Amino Acids: Keratin
not too much effective Ceramides
o Coats the cortex and act as barrier from water loss
3. Describe the different shampoo ingredients and give at least two for the cuticle
examples of each. o UV protection
a. Main Detergents o Prevent loss of water-soluble peptide
Anionics Panthenol
Alkyl sulfates. Alkyl ether sulfates o Vitamin B5
Oxides o Promotes hair growth
Nonionic o Absorbed by hair via oxidation
Not usually used as major ingredients Glutamic acid derivatives: Hair Growth
Act as surfactants and thickeners Sodium EDTA: To prevent formation of insoluble soap
Fatty acid alkanolamides Hydrotope: Solubilizing agent
Fatty amines
Amphoterics d. Special Additives for Hair Condition:
Iidazoline derivatives Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Alkylamidobetaines, alkylbetaines
Cationics e. Special Additive for Scalp Health:
Normally incompatible with anionics and therefore are Zinc pyrithione
unlikely to be used in shampoo systems Piroctone olamine

b. Shampoo Additives 4. What are the requirements for a good shampoo surfactant?
Thickeners or Viscosity Modifiers Enables the cleaning solution to fully wet the surface being
Xanthan gum, NaCl cleaned so that dirt can be readily loosened and removed
Cellulose derivatives Cleans greasy, oily, particulate protein and carbohydrate-based
Hydrocolloids (PVA or cellulose derivatives) stains
Polyethylene glycol diesters Instrumental in removing dirt and in keeping them emulsified,
suspended and dispersed so they dont settle back onto the
surface being cleaned

10
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
5. What is hair conditioning? EXFOLIATION
Reduction of static electricity generated by combing and brushing Uses of chemical or mechanical means to encourage the
dry hair removal of the dead skin scale
Smooth and tangle free hair, wet and dry combing Use of mild acids in astringent formulations (glycolic acid or
Improves gloss or luster lactic acid)
Improves body or volume Use of abrasive scrubs or textured cleansing cloths removes
Improves texture of chemically or heat damaged hair skin scale improving skin texture and skin shine

OTHER NOTES FACE POWDER

Hair Soil Hide skin imperfections (scars, acne, pimples)
1. Sebum For oily skin
2. Proteinaceous matter- from scalp, remnants of hair products
(unwashed shampoo, hairspray, hair gel, etc) BASIC INGREDIENTS OF FACE POWDER
3. Dirt- can be atmospheric dust 1. Pigments
Detergency 2. Payoff
o cleansing, removing of dirt and forms foam with water a. Transfer of product to applicator
o is the removal of an unwanted liquid or solid substance from b. Dry metallic stearates
a solid surface brought into contact with a liquid c. Oil, lanolin derivatives (3%)
Roll-up Mechanism: changes in the surface tension resulting from d. Isopropyl myristate
surfactant adsorption cause the oily material to roll-up to form a e. PVP, cellulose derivatives
sphere that detaches from the soil 3. Perfume
a. Must be pleasant
b. Must be efficiently dispersed

Ingredients

General General Subclass Function Examples

Class Function

Adhesive good Stearates Zn stearate,

adhesive Mg stearate
properties
FACE POWDER
Emollients Cetyl or
Prepared by: Charlotte O. Gallardo (0.5 2%) stearyl alcohol
for adhesion
INTRODUCTION
FACIAL SKIN Fillers improves spherical improve skin organic:
Thinnest part of the body skin feel, fillers feel polyamides,
product can be used as nylon spheres
Has biofilm (oil, sweat, debris of skin care products) application filler with no inorganic:
and skin luster when in a silica, both as
adhesion particular crystal solid or hollow
HEALTHY FACIAL SKIN form spheres
Shiny skin due to light reflection gives rise to pearlescent
Light reflection due to even surface excellent pigments:
compressibility bismuth
when used in oxychloride
CAUSES OF UNEVEN FACIAL SKIN pressed powder
Scars formulations
Facial growth (moles)
special enhance light- coated mica
Skin disease (acne) fillers diffusing pigments - fine
Retained dead skin cells from the stratum corneum properties of the particle size
(corneocytes) material coated Examples for
on the surface of coating
o During youth the corneocytes lough easily as the cellular the mica materials for
message for cell adhesion is well transmitted allow ease of micas:
o With advancing of age, the cells do not disadhese or incorporation into TiO2
desquamate as readily leading to retained dead skin scale liquid BaSO4,
formulations BiOCl
o Dead skin scale (dander) creates an uneven skin surface

11
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017

Organic dimethiconeco
compounds polyol

surface Organic Moisturizi

modified polymers ng agents
fillers (collagen, (glycerin)
elastin and
vitamin E)
MANUFACTURE OF FACE POWDERS
Skin light Homogenization
Coverage coverage 20 minutes to 3 hours of blending time
medium ZnO
Hammer mill
coverage Vortex mixers
Low-shear mixers or high-shear devices
high TiO2 End point of power blending: Homogenous powder mixture in
coverage
terms of color and consistency, especially for formulations where
Other Ingredients one component is a coloring agent or a pigment
Compression
Ingredient Function Examples Wet molding
Dry compression
to help spread or slip talc, stearate
Damp/wet compression
Adsorbent Excellent grease-resisting properties chalk, kaolin
Blending of pigments
Possibility of streaks Solubilized sweat or lipid secretions
Yellow, red, brown, black, ultramarine (blue and green)
Good absorptive characteristics starch, CaCO3 Pro-hydrate and pro-oxides (green
Affects slip
Dry feel
FACTORS THAT AFFECT MANUFACTURE
High odor and oil absorption properties silicates Particle size of the pigment - affects homogeneity
Degree of dispersion
Thickness of applied film
Pigments and Mineral Charges
QUALITY CONTROL
White Colored Unifying Mineral Silicones Active
charges charges Use of penetrometer: Used to measure compressive strength
light INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS

Titanium Iron Nylon Soft focus Dimethicone Vitamin C, Phase Ingredient Use
dioxide oxides (orgasol) (light A, and E
(Yellow, diffusing)
red,
Mica Pearlescent effect
black)
Pearlescent
Talcs Ultramar Polymethyl Photochro Volatile UV filters Pearlescent effect
ine blue me- mic cyclomethicon
pigment
tacrylates e
Titanium
Opacifier
Pearl Colored Silica Light Silicone gum Enzymes dioxide
pigments pigment correcting blends
(mica, s and (auto- Emulsifying
titanium pearls adaptative A Stearic acid Facilitates adhesion
dioxide (mica + )
coated iron
mica, oxides, Iron oxides Color pigment
bismuth mica +
oxychlori titanium
de) dioxides Magnesium
, iron For adhesion
oxides)
stearate

Boron Cyclomethicon Phospholi Talc Glidant, facilitates slip

nitride e and pids

12
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017

Ascorbic acid Antioxidant

3. What are the basic compositions of a face powder? Give
examples and its specific function?
Fragrance, masks unpleasant odor
Fragrance *See discussion
caused by degradation or rancidity
B 4. How do we assess endpoint of powder blending?
Stearyl alcohol Emollient, also for adherence Powder mixture must be homogenous in terms of color and
consistency, especially for formulations where one
Propyl paraben Preservative component is a coloring agent or a pigment

CLEAR CURL ACTIVATOR GEL

Prepared by: NA
METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
NOT INCLUDED

ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM
Prepared by: Menelli Aimeren Mendoza
Credits to: KMS Morano Buddy Notes

INTRODUCTION
AGING
Accumulation of molecular modification which manifest as
macroscopic clinical changes
Categories:
1. Laxity (sagging)
2. Rhytids (wrinkles)
ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS 3. Photoaging
1. What are the needs of the facial skin? a. Erythema (redness)
Needs of the Facial Skin b. Dyspigmentation (brown discoloration)
Maintenance of skin health c. Solar elastosis (yellowing)
o Optimization of the biofilm d. Keratosis (abnormal growths)
o Balance between cleansing and moisturizing e. Poor texture
Enhancement of skin beauty
Creation of an even skin surface CAUSES OF SKIN AGING
Prevention and reversal of skin damage 1. Intrinsic Natural Skin Aging
o UVA and UVB radiation: Both damage the skin Smooth, dry, pale, finely wrinkled
o Sunscreens: Most important anti-aging facial skin Genetic in origin and is significantly affected by hormonal and
care products; Ability to absorb, scatter, or reflect vascular changes, facial expression lines and the effects of
UVA and/or UVB radiation gravity
o Skin lightening preparations: Even irregular 2. Extrinsic Photoaging
pigmentation; Anti-aging products attempt to Coarse, roughened, deeply wrinkled, with or without pigment
reverse facial skin damage once it has occurred changes
2. What are the characteristics of a good face powder? o Caused by environmental conditions
Characteristics of a Good Face Powder o Exposure to UV radiation from the sun and sun lamps
1. Slip-ease of application o Effects of wind, smoke pollutants and central heating
Give coverage for a natural complexion o Wounds, infections, cigarette smoke, diet and lifestyle habits
Talc + metallic stearates improve slip
2. Velvety or peach-like CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN AGING
Consistent color and smooth finish 1. Genetic
Bloom 2. Chronologic (time)
Powdered silk provide good absorption for aromatic 3. Actinic (Photoaging inUV and infrared radiations)
compounds 4. Behavioral (smoking, alcohol abuse, facial expressions)
3. Adherence 5. Endocrinological
4. Pigments 6. Catabolic (nutritional deficiency)
5. Good Adsorbent properties 7. Gravitational (sagging of skin)
6. High covering power

13
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
ANTI-AGING CREAM 4. Peptides
Moisturizer-based cosmeceutical skin care products marketed MOA: mimics collagen type 1 precursor of matrix of skin collagen
with the promise of making the consumer look younger and elastin
Reducing wrinkles, expression lines, blemishes, pigmentation Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3), matryxil and other copper
changes, discolorations and other environmentally-related skin peptides
conditions Mimic enzymes in the body

MOA OF ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS 5. Antioxidants

1. Act as an antioxidant
Natural elements that prevent damage to the body caused by free
radicals
Free radicals are known to damage cells leading to enhancing the
process of wrinkle formation, creating more skin spots, and skin
cancer
2. Providing water and hydration to the skin
Helps the body control its temperature, while at the same time
controlling the moisture content in the skin
Hydrating the dead outermost part of the skin (stratum corneum)
3. Skin enzymes and hydration levels
Enzymes have direct influence on the working and manufacturing
of keramides and NMF which are vital in maintaining proper
hydration in the skin
Other enzymes (protease, glycosidase and phosphate) also
require water to work properly
Active Ingredients used in Anti-aging Creams
Effects depend on the concentration and mode of application
Combination of these ingredients are recommended
AHAs + sunscreens: AHAs make the skin more vulnerable to
damage from the sun, sunscreens are used in combination
1. Retinol
Reduce fine lines and pores
Causes allergic reactions
Retinoic acid causes retinoid dermatitis (erythema, scaling,
pruritus)
Less allergic forms:
o Retinyl palmitate
o Actinyl propionate (safest salt)
2. Epidermal Growth Factor
53 amino acids to stimulate cell renewal and collagen production
in the skin
Strengthen skin elasticity and structure
Reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging
Healing of wounds and burns and anti-inflammatory properties
3. -hydroxy acids (AHAs), -hydroxy acids, lactic acids, glycolic acids
or other chemical peels
help dissolve the intracellular glue that hold the dead cells
together on the skin
enhances exfoliation of the epidermis on daily use
o exposes newer skin cells
o help improve appearance
may irritate some skin causing redness and flaking
Substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by
unstable molecules (free radicals)
Vitamins
o Vitamin B3 (Niacin)
Precursors of NADH, NADPH
3 forms: Nicotinamide, Nicotinic acid, Nicotinate esters
Effects on skin: Inhibits sebum production, Increased
epidermal production of skin barrier lipids (ceramides)
Problems with hydrolysis and is converted to nicotinic
acid
*Adjust pH to pH 5 to 7
Combined with retinol to increase anti-aging effect
o Vitamin C: One of the most effective and commonly included
ingredient in anti-wrinkle creams; Helps in healing process
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)
o Help repair skin damaged by elements and improve collagen
o Levels of coenzyme Q10 lessen with age causing skin to be
more easily damaged by free radicals and more prone to
decreased elasticity
o CoQ10 repair some damage and is able to easily penetrate
skin
6. Sunscreens
High level of UVA protection
*UVA radiation is associated with aging effects (wrinkles)
SPF 15 20 for anti-aging creams
7. Plant extracts
Bearberry, green tea, ginkgo biloba, aloe vera, mint, turmeric,
Artemisia vulgaris
Fision Soy Lift
Deliver long lasting skin tightening and skin smoothening in a
natural environmentally friendly product
Components and functions
1. Hydrolyzed soy protein
o Excellent film former, soy protein both moisturizes and
tightens skin
o Effectively reducing the appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles while also improving skin health and feel
2. Acacia Senegal gum
o Naturally-derived material frequently seen in food
applications
o Effectively adds tightening, smoothing and feel-improving
properties to any skin care application
3. Xanthan gum: secret ingredient in fision soy lift
o Thickener and film former
o Prolongs the tightening effect of the skin

14
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS MOA: oxidation of melanin pigments
NH3 + H2O2
Cetostearyl Alcohol Structuring Agent
o H2O2 in acidic solution is more stable, and functions as an
White Petrolatum Occlusive oxidizing agent (OA)
A o But we describe our solution as oxidative, alkaline treatment.
Polyethylene Glycol 400 Emollient If H2O2 is in basic solution, function as reducing agent (RA)
o How does H2O2 maintain its role as OA even in the
Mineral Oil Occlusive presence of NH3?
Concentration of NH3 is low
Purified Water Solvent for aqueous phase NH3 responsible for swelling the hair shaft thereby
exposing melanin pigments for oxidation by H2O2
SLS Skin penetrant Two types of melanin:
B Eumelanin (dark shades)
Vitamin B3 Active ingredient o More affected by the NH3 and H2O2 solution
Pheomelanin (red)
Propylene Glycol Humectant o Resistant to oxidation/ not readily oxidized
o Ginger people - not that affected by hair
C Purified Water Diluent coloring compared to Asians
A: Oil Phase
To achieve bleaching, we use:
B: Water Phase
H2O2
C: Diluent
Boosters: perborates, perchlorates, NH4+ (ammonia salt)
METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
Coloring
* Color Fastness - resistance to fading due to washing, sunlight (Key
term: resistance)
A. Non-oxidation/ Temporary
Objective: Slight modification of a previous hair coloring (semi-
permanent/ permanent)
o From definition of cosmetics, should not have permanent
effect, so temporary is considered a cosmetic product
make-up for hair.
Dyes: Azo, Indophenols, Azine, methyl violet
Formulation:
o Color Fastness: Fades after 2 washings
o Contradicting:
At some point, kelangan ng resistance towards: Friction
in pillows, rain
But another point, should have no strong binding with
keratin
Products: Emulsion, cream, shampoo, powder

B. Semi-permanent/ Direct
Direct, because no need for oxidation (no mixing, oxidizing
agent); color is directly applied
HAIR COLORING CREAM (DRY LAB) Objectives:
Prepared by: Vinson C. Malipot o Color fastness: 6 to 12 washings; color fades slowly
o To add various tones or colors (rendered by nitro group)
BLEACHING Dyes: Nitro group
First objective: Lightening of hair (key term: lightening) Formulation: Nonselective (regardless if hair ends or hair roots)
Second objective: Preparation for dye application

C. Permanent
Objectives: For the color to stay
Problem: Hair growth of 1cm per month

15
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
Dyes (Families) NAIL POLISH REMOVER
o Diamines Prepared by: Korinna Gutlay
o Aminophenols
o Phenols or Naphthols INTRODUCTION
Diamines vs. Triamines NAIL STRUCTURE
Triamines have additional amine (NH3) so more
swelling, but not necessarily darker since
diamines have dark color, while triamines are red
Diamines vs. Aminophenol
Phenol is essentially an alcohol (-OH), and
hydroxyl groups attenuate the color
So diamines are brighter so used as Primary
Intermediate, while aminophenols are Couplers or
Modifiers

Formulation of Oxidation Dyes

1. Primary Intermediate NAIL PRODUCTS
2. Coupler 1. Nail Polish
3. Vehicle (can either be shampoo, cream, emulsion, mousse) Aka enamel or lacquer
4. Antioxidant (stabilizer) Coatings applied on nail plates
Acetanilide (used in the market together with peroxide) Used to:
5. Alkali (NH3) o Provide pleasing look
6. Colorant o Address soft or brittle nails
7. Curb Agent - to avoid rapid oxidation / slow down oxidation Nail Polish Layers:
process o Base Coat - for adherence, to enhance color, used as
primer; barrier to prevent staining; high concentration
H2O2 (6-9%; 20 volumes) of resins
20 volumes: If you decompose 1 L of H2O2 produce 20 L of o Ridge Filler - smoothen surface
oxygen o Top Coat - Polish for shiny or glossy appearance;
3% - 10 volumes (so 1 L will produce 10 L oxygen) composed of nitrocellulose
Basic Ingredients
Classifications o Film Former
1. Technical Hair Products Nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate butyrate
2. Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products Harden product on nails
3. Hair dressing and styling products Provide shine when it dries
4. Scalp care products Secondary film formers: resins, tosylamide; to
make film tough and resilient
Color Systems o Plasticizer
1. Munsell color notation system Prevents chips and cracks
a. Hue Shade Example: triphenylphospahte
b. Chroma Saturation o Solvents
c. Value - Lightness Ethyl acetate, butyl acetate for nan-acetone
2. CIE-LAB system toluene
a. L Lightness o Pigments
b. A - red-green component Should be non water-soluble
c. B - yellow-blue component Uses suspending agents or clays (bentonite)
*LAB - coordinates o Nail Hardeners
Formaldehyde
Instruments: o UV Stabilizers
Spectrophotometer - measure absorbance Para di agad magfade out
Tristimulus Colorimeter - measure color spectra or coordinates Benzophenone

16
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
2. Nail Polish Dental diseases- prevention through maintenance of low level of
a. Acetone - to remove sparkly nail polish fluoride in the oral cavity
b. Non-acetone - for nail extensions (kasi masyadong Fluoride can be from drinking water, salt, milk, mouth rinse, or
matapang yung acetone, so malulusaw nya yung nail toothpaste, as well as professionally applied fluorides
extensions); ethyl acetate is used as solvent instead of Tools needed to remove plaque thoroughly- toothbrush, dental
acetone floss, toothpicks, interdental and electrical toothbrushes
3. Nail Softener Toothpaste and mouthwash- cosmetics and toiletries
4. Cuticle Remover classifications
5. Nail Bleach
Tooth Anatomy
Nail Care 1. Enamel- 98% hydroxyapatite (hardest material in the body)
1. Trimming 2. Dentin- yellow
2. Washing 3. Cementum
3. Nail polish application not more than once a week 4. Pulp- presence of nerve receptors- nangingilo
5. Gingiva
Unwanted Effects
1. Staining Tooth desensitizers
2. Drying 1. Strontium chloride
3. Allergies 2. Potassium Nitrate- FDA approved; more commonly used

INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS MOA

Ingredient Use Fluorinated toothpaste prevent cavities through complexation of
hydroxyapatite (susceptible with acids) with fluoride forming
Acetone Solvent fluoroapatite which is not dissolved by acids
Bacteria break down sugars forming acids
Water Solvent Brushing needs to be regular since amount of fluoroapatite
formed is unknown
Ethyl Acetate Solvent Time for brushing: 2 minutes; >2 minutes= damage to gingiva

Isopropyl myristate Co-solvent; Slightly moisturizing Properties of a good toothpaste

1. Its abrasives and surfactant should support the cleaning action of
Mineral Oil Moisturizer the toothbrush without causing damage to the soft tissue, the
enamel or the softer root surface dentine if exposed
Lanolin Oil Moisturizer 2. Its fluoride and other ingredients should help prevent cavities
3. Taste should leave the mouth fresh and clean sensation to make
Fragrance brushing less of a chore and more enjoyable
Xylitol and sorbitol- do not cause dental cavities and caries
Colorant due to structure; not metabolised by bacteria and humans
(suitable for diabetic patients)
METHODOLOGY AND RFIS Sucrose- cause cavities/ dental caries; does not leave fresh
Mix all ingredients then filter. sensation
Sodium saccharin (300x sweeter than sucrose) leave
TOOTHPASTE metallic after taste thus in combination with other
Prepared by: Jenny Irene Dulawan sweeteners
4. Cost encourages regular use
INTRODUCTION 5. Packed economically and stable in storage conditions
60-90% of school children worldwide have dental cavities (WHO) 6. Claims should be substantiated with clinical trials
One of the most common diseases that afflict the modern world
together with periodontal (gum) disease
Oral hygiene should be maintained daily since bacterial and
plaque deposits form continuously
Burden of oral diseases can also be reduced by simultaneously
addressing common risk factors such as tobacco use and
unhealthy diet

17
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS thickening polymers have to be incorporated. To prevent drying,
humectants were added.
Phase Material Function
2. What is the basic composition of toothpastes? Give examples of
each.
CMC Gelling/ thickening agent
Ingredient Description % Examples
w/w
A
humectant, sweetener, Abrasive Cleaning and polishing; 10- Dental Grade Silicas,
Sorbitol, 70%
leaves fresh sensation remove any adherent layer 50 Dicalcium Phosphate
on the teeth; inorganic Dehydrate, Hydrated
materials, 15 microns; render Alumina, Calcium
Deionized water Solvent mechanical cleaning property Carbonate

Sodium saccharin Sweetener Surfactant Aid in the penetration of the 1-2 SLS
surface film on the tooth by
Sodium lowering the surface tension;
Active ingredient Provide foam to suspend and
monofluorophosphate
B remove the debris; Add
vacuum for large scale
Sodium benzoate Preservative
Humectant Used to prevent the paste 10 Glycerol, Sorbitol,
Deionized water Solvent from drying out and 30 Propylene Glycol
hardening to an
unacceptable level
Calcium carbonate Abrasive
Gelling Hydrophilic colloids which 0.5 Na CMC, Carrageenan,
C Flavour Flavouring agent agent disperse and swell in water Xanthan Gum,
(binding/ phase of the toothpaste; 1.5 Hydroxyethylcell Ulose
Sodium lauryl sulphate Surfactant bonding Maintain the integral stability
agent) of the paste and prevent
separation into component
phases
METHODOLOGY AND RFIS
1. Part B: Add salts into deionized water while stirring. Heat to ~60C Sweetener For product acceptance 0.05 Sodium Saccharin
to dissolve. Cover to prevent moisture
2. Part A: weigh sorbitol into beaker. Disperse CMC in sorbitol while 0.5
stirring. Stir for 15 minutes or until adequately dispersed. Add
water and stir for 15-30 minutes, making sure the polymer is Flavor Most crucial part because of 1 Spearmint, Menthol,
consumer preference 3 Peppermint Anethole
completely hydrated (no gels). Add warm salt solution while
stirring. Continue stirring for 15 minutes or until homogenous (no Color and Colored lacquers and <1 Titanium Dioxide (Gives
lumps or gels). others pigments (not water soluble) Additional Brilliance),
3. Add CaCO3 and mix for 10 minutes at low speed to completely Colors, CL 47005
(Quinoline Yellow), Cl
wet the CaCO3. Gradually increase speed and mix for 20 minutes
5800 (Madder Varnish)
or until smooth. Ph Adjusters, Sparkles
4. Add SLS and mix for 5 minutes at low speed. Add flavour and mix
for 2 minutes at low speed. Gradually increase speed for 15 Fluoride < Na Fluoride, Na
minutes, observe the foam. salts 0.5 Monofluorophos Phate

Therapeutic Fluoride containing, prevent < 10 Tricolsan,

ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS agents tooth decay, also promotes Pyrophosphate Salts,
1. What is the difference between toothpaste and tooth powders? remineralization of tooth Potassium Nitrate,
Tooth powders have higher abrasive content (up to 90% volume) Strontium Chloride
and lack moisturizing agents such as glycerine, sorbitol, and
water. Tooth pastes have moisturizing agent and paste or gel-like Purified qs
water
consistency.
Tooth powders were once the choice for dental hygiene, but due
to their difficulty in application additional research was done. The 3. What are the general guidelines in toothpaste production?
development of a product that can be easily applied was done. Sodium fluoride reacts with Calcium carbonate to form insoluble
To achieve this, it is necessary to have a high solid suspension salt use sodium monofluorophosphate instead
in a stable viscous form an therefore gelling agents and Humectants- use at 10-30% for shine and plasticity

18
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
4. What are the steps for continuous toothpaste production?
***PARTS OF SMALL EQUIPMENT:
Method of manufacture of toothpaste Planetary agitator- use in blending
General Method A Anchor- obtain toothpaste that stick to the walls
Stage 1. Carefully blend all powder components of the toothpaste
together, including the gelling agents, abrasives and thickening 5. What are the different tests performed to evaluate effects of
agents. This blend is essential to avoid aggregation of the gelling toothpaste?
agent. A. Abrasive tests
Abrasives a. Radioactive Dentin Abrasion
Gelling agents b. Radioactive Enamel Abrasion
Powdered therapeutic agents B. Antimicrobial Effect of Toothpaste
Sweetener
Whitener/ colors 6. What are the labeling requirements of fluorinated toothpaste?
Stage 2. Mix this blend with all the aqueous and liquid components of 1. Limitations and Requirements: The amount of total fluoride
the paste in a heavy duty mixer in a single unit container shall not exceed 300mg.
Humectant 2. Conditions of use and warning which must be printed on the
Purified water labels:
Following complete swelling of the gelling agent in a homogenous a. For any toothpaste containing 0.1-0.15% fluoride
paste will be obtained. unless it is already labeled as contraindicated for
children (e.g. for adult use only), labeling in no. 3 is
General Method B obligatory
Stage 1. The gelling agent is fully hydrate in the presence of sufficient 3. CHILDREN OF 6 YEARS AND YOUNGER: Use a pea sized
water and heat if necessary. In additional all soluble salts may be amount (insert 6mm circle to graphically demonstrate size of
added paste to be used) for supervised brushing to minimize
Humectants swallowing. In case of intake of fluoride from other sources
Gelling agents consult a dentist or doctor
Powdered therapeutic agents
LIPSTICK
Purified water
Prepared by: Jonash Mallari
Several processing variations may be used, especially in the hydration
of the gel, but generally the manufacturer of the gelling agents
INTRODUCTION
recommend either (a) dispersion in the non-aqueous portion of the
Lipsticks
humectant system (glycerin or propylene glycol) before addition of the
Mixture of waxes, oils and pigments in varying concentrations to
free water and the ingredients added in solution in order to ensure
yield the characteristics of the final product
good hydration and prevent gal lump formation; or (b) continually
hydrating the gelling agent by pulling amounts of the powder into a Mixture of waxes to alter melting point for easier application;
stream of cold water. varies based on the type lipstick
Stage 2. Mix the fully dispersed gel and the powders together also in Oils emollient effect, have tendency to sweat out
a duty mixer. Glossy oil > wax
Abrasives Matte
Sweetener Ingredient Function
Whitener/colors Titanium dioxide Opacifying agent
Follow complete mixing a homogenous past will be obtained. Talc Mattifying agent
Nylon fibers, silica, Allow ease of application
polymethyl acrelate even if powdery
Stage 3. (Addition of flavor and surfactants)
The homogenous paste obtained from either process must then be Characteristics of a Good Lipstick
mixed with both the surfactant and the flavor under vacuum. This is Easy to apply
essential in order to de-aerate the product at the final stage; otherwise Good degree of indelibility
a cosmetically unacceptable mousse-type consistency will be High retention of color intensity
produced. These are often added as late as possible in the Complete freedom from grittiness
manufacture because mixing the surface-active agent will create Non-drying
foaming and air entrapment if caution is not taken. Equally mixing
Desirable degree of plasticity
under vacuum with the flavor added could cause unnecessary loss of
Pleasant odor and flavor
some flavor components that can be up to 25% of the total raw material
cost of the toothpaste.

19
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
Storage Characteristics c. Observe precaution when using pearl pigment because it is
Smooth and shiny appearance prone to sedimentation.
Freedom from bloom or sweating d. Add the fragrance at the end to avoid its volatilization.
Suitable degree of firmness during reasonable variation of
climatic temperature ANSWERS TO GUIDE QUESTIONS
Retain plasticity without any tendency to dry-out or crumble 1. What are the characteristics of the human lips?
Characteristics
Packaging, Directions for Use, and Storage Soft, movable and serve as the opening for food intake and in
Prescribed container: pre-heated lipstick container the articulation of sound and speech
Apply desired color on clean, dry lips. Apply 3-4 times. Tactile sensory organ
Store in a cool dry place. Keep away from direct sunlight. Can be erogenous when used in kissing and other acts of
intimacy
Other Notes Others
Ferric oxide is very shiny due to crystal form so do not triturate o Very thin compared to facial skin
or subject it to any kind of friction because it will lose its shine o Not hairy
If solid particles are < 15 m: silky satin effect o No sweat glands or sebaceous glands prone to cracking
If solid particles are > 15 m: sparkle and luster Functions
Food intake for eating and drinking functions
INGREDIENTS AND FUNCTIONS Articulation for creating different sounds, speech, whistling,
Phase Ingredient Use performing wind and brass instruments
Pearlescent pigment Gives color highlights Tactile organ very sensitive to touch, warmth, and cold;
Disperses pigments important aid for exploring unknown objects for babies and
A toddlers
Castor oil Makes the lipstick slippery
& soft Erogenous zone plays a crucial role in kissing and other acts
Beeswax white Gives rigidity & solidity of intimacy
Carnauba wax Gives hardness External Parts
Lanolin Emollient Upper lip labium superius
Isopropyl myristate Emollient Lower lip labium inferius; usually somewhat larger
Mineral oil Emollient Vermillion border border between the lips and the surrounding
B Ascorbic acid/Tocopheryl skin
Antioxidant Philtrum groove on the upper part of the lip
acetate
Propylparaben Preservative
2. What are the basic compositions of a lipstick? Give the function
Disperses pigments
of each.
Castor oil Makes the lipstick slippery
General Class Examples Function %
& soft
Brings brightness;
C Fragrance Fragrance Candelilla wax
vegetable origin
Gives hardness; vegetable
Waxes Carnauba wax
origin
(Give rigidity &
METHODOLOGY AND RFIS For adhesion; mineral 20
solidity to the Ozokerite wax
origin
stick)
Avoids oil exudation;
Polyethylene
synthetic origin; Compatible
with slicones
Castor oil Disperses pigments
Oils Forms a film suitable for lip
Oleyl alcohol 40-
(Make the lipstick application 50
slippery & soft) Forms a film suitable for lip
White mineral oil
application
Give red, yellow or black
Iron oxides
Coloring agents colors
(Provide different Brings coverage, opacity & 2-10
Titanium dioxide
RFIS lipstick shades) intensity
a. Pre-heat the mold to prevent the mixture from hardening Pearl pigments Give color highlights
very quickly. Sun filters
Bring a sun protection
b. Package the product while the container is hot to prevent index
Additives Vitamins B5, C, E Antioxidants
air bubbles, flow lines but not too hot to prevent
sedimentation. Ceramides Moisturizing agents

20
 Seniors Academics Committee 2016-2017
Gives the lipstick a QUIZ QUESTIONS
pleasant taste on the lips & 1. Function of the Lips
Fragrance <1
masks possible smell of
raw materials 2. Differentiate Glossy vs. Matte Lipstick
Protect the product from 3. 3 Basic Components of Lipstick
Presevatives 0.1
degradation 4. 3 Basic Components of Lipstick
5. 3 Basic Components of Lipstick
3. What are the stages in standard lipstick manufacturing? 6. Function of Castor Oil
A. Mixing waxes, oils, and extenders at high temperature 7. Define streakiness
B. Producing a concentrated dispersion of pigment (generally
the pigments are grounded in an oily base such as castor
oil)
C. Adding the colored paste at high temperature with the rest
of the formula of the first stage
D. Molding the colored paste

4. What are the different quality control tests for lipstick?

QC Test Description
Organoleptic evaluation Color, odor, appearance, texture
Quantification of the Either by reflectance
color, brightness, and spectrophotmetry of the optical
streakiness spectrum of visible light reflected
or by reflectance tristimulus
colorimetry
Give quantitative information on
the color but are limited to a small
analysis surface (7 mm2 to a few
cm2)
Require direct contact between
the made-up skin surface and the
device, which generates shrinking
are every measurement and
therefore modified aspect and the
long-term behavior of the product
Quantification of the Commonly evaluated by an
moisturizing effect indirect method based on the
measurement of electrical
conductivity
Corneometer (based on the
measurement of the capacitance)
Nova Derm Phase Meter (based
on the measurement of skin
impedance)
Melting point Melting temperature
assessment
Solidification Freezing temperature
characteristics
Stick strength Solidity, hardness, applicability

21