Total Textile Process at a Glance

Scouring:
Scouring is the process by which all
natural and additive impurities such as
oil, wax, fat, hand dust etc. are
removed to produce hydrophilic and
clean textile material. It is one of the
vital processes of wet processing.
 Objects of Scouring:
To make the fabric highly hydrophilic.
To remove impurities such as oils, waxes, gum,
husks as nearly as possible.
To increase absorbency of fabric or textile
materials without physical and chemical
damage.
To produce a clean material by adding alkali.
To make the fabric ready for next process. To
remove non-cellulosic substance in case of
cotton.
 Composition of cotton
Natural impurities
Constituent %
Cellulose 88
Oils, Fats and 0.5
Waxes
Pectins 0.7
Proteins 1.1
Colouring matter 0.5
Mineral Matter 1.0
Moisture 8.0
 Fats and Waxes
Fatty acids
Stearic acid
Palmitic acid
Oleic acid
Fatty alcohols
Gossipyl alcohol (C30H61OH)
Ceryl alcohol (C26H53OH)
Montanyl alcohol (C28H57OH)
 Pectins
Derivatives of pectic acid
Polymer of high molecular weight
Composed of Galactouronic acid

Some COOH groups are present as Ca and Mg salts

Free acid and Ca and Mg salts are insoluble in water
 Proteins
Nitrogenous compounds
Present in primary wall and Lumen
Some of the amino acids identified are
Leucine
Valine
Proline,
Alanine etc.
Yellowish (Creamish) colour of cotton is related to Proteins
and
Colouring matter
 Colouring matter
Colour pigments present are
3,5,7,2, 4 Penta hydroxy flavone (Morrin)

3,5,7,8,3,4 Hexa hydroxy flavone (Gossypetine)

 Mineral Matter
Depends on soil composition
Can be determined by ash analysis
Potassium carbonate 44.8
Potassium chloride 9.9
Potassium sulphate 9.3
Calcium sulphate 9.0
Calcium carbonte 10.3
Magnesium sulphate 8.4
Ferric oxide 3.0
Aluminium oxide 5.0
Chemicals used in scouring process:
Main chemicals Use

Caustic soda Neutralize acidic materials, saponify glycerides

(waxes and oil),solubilise silicates

Surfactants Reduce surface tension & minimize interfacial

tension.
Detergents Emulsify oil, fats, waxes and remove oil-borne
stains.
Chelating agent Deactivate metal ions.

Sodium silicate Penetrate & break drown lignin's.

Soda ash Maintain pH.

Solvent Assist emulsification by dissolving oily

materials.
General recipe for scouring for Kier boiler process:

Alkali (NaOH) - 2 to 5 gm per Litre.

Soda ash - x gm per Litre to adjust PH (PH required for
scouring is 10.5).
Wetting agent - 1 gm per Litre.
Sequestering agent - 1 gm per Litre.
Detergent - 1 to 2 gm per Litre.
Temperature 100 0c.
Time - 6 hours (close vessel) and 8 hours (open vessel)
M : L - 1 : 10
 Reaction that happened at scouring of
cotton is :

Reaction with caustic soda:

R COO H + Na OH R COO Na + H2O
soap of sodium dissolve easy in water.

Reaction with soda ash(sodium carbonat)

2R COO H + Na2 CO3 2R COO Na + H2O + CO2
Fat

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Reaction with mixture of lime water and soda ash
2R COO H + Ca (OH)2 (RCOO)2 Ca + 2 H2O
insoluble calcium soap in water.

(RCOO)2 Ca + 2HCl Ca Cl2 + 2 RCOOH

Fat
2RCOOH + Na2 CO3 2R COO Na + H2O + CO2
Soap of sodium

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 Scouring Process

There are two types of textile scouring processes

1. Conventional scouring process:
Kier boiling (discontinuous) scouring.
Scouring in J or L box (continuous).
Exhaust method

2. Special scouring process:

Solvent scouring process.
Vapor lock scouring proces
Procedure
- Materials and chemical agents weigh as
according to calculation of recipe
- Water and chemical agent prepared as
according to liquor ratio at recipe
- Fabric done at solution process with
temperature 95oC,then stir to flatten
during 60 minute
- Afterwards cloth cleaned by hot water
,then cleaned to be chill water
- Materials dried is later,then weigh and
perceived, do test of fabric absorpsion.
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Schema Process

TemperatureoC
NaOH
Na 2CO3

Scouring
60oC

30oC
Rinsed by Hot Water
And chill water

0 15 75 minute
Time(minute)

Shema of scouring process of cotton with Na2CO3 and NaOH used

exhaustion methode

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 Form of Scouring:
Yarn scouring:
Hank form
Package form
Continuous sheet warp form.
Fabric scouring:
Open width form :
Jigger
Pad batch
Progressive jig
Rope form
Kier
Washer.
 Scouring process:

Batch process.
Semi continuous process.
Discontinuous process.
Modern process.
 Scouring methods of Cotton:
Generally, there are two principle methods of
cotton scouring.
Discontinuous (Kier boiling process or winch
dyeing machine)
Continuous (Scouring in J or L box)
Kier(Rope Form) Winch (Rope Form)

Jet machine
(Rope form) Jigger (Open width form)
 Main parts of kier boiler:
Cylindrical vessel
Mixing tank(liquor prepared according to recipe)
Multi tubular heat exchanger(heating the liquor)
Perforated false bottom
Circular tube(spray liquor on fabric)
 Process: The working process in J-box can be divided into four units. There
are
Impragnaion box
Pre heater.
J box.
Washing unit.
Good scouring

Uniform scouring

Uneven scouring
 Added Impurities
Sizing agents:

Agents used to give protective coating to warp threads

Minimize the breaking of warp threads during weaving

Improve weaving productvity.

The operation is known as sizing.

Starch is one of the most important sizing agent for cotton

 PREPARATORY PROCESSES

Purpose
To remove added and natural impurities from textile
material

Removal impurities to the maximum extent possible

with minimum effect on fibre strength.

To impart desirable properties to textile material

 Principle of preparatory processes

The impurity is insoluble in water

Conversion of water insoluble impurity to its water soluble

form.

Chemical reactions involved are

Hydrolysis

Oxidation

The choice of chemicals depends on chemical nature of

impurity.
Description and Working Principle of Scouring Process:

Kier boiler is a long mild steel or cast iron cylindrical vessel

provided with two perforated tube sheets (disc with a number of
holes). One is placed at the bottom and another is top. These discs
are connected by a number of tunes which carry the liquor from
the bottom compartment to the upper one. In the middle
compartment steam is passed. Thus the tubes carrying the liquor
are surrounded by steam which heats them.

The hot liquor from the multitublar heater is sprayed over the
cloth, packed in the kier, through a hollow perforated ring. The
liquid passes slowly over the packed cloth, collects below the false
bottom, from where it is pumped into the auxiliary heater by a
centrifugal pump and the cycle repeats.
Figure scouring process
 Desizing
Process of removal of size is known as desizing
Facilitates penetration of chemicals and dyes applied during subsequent
processing operations
Starch is the main ingredient for sizing of cotton warp
Chemically starch is

Chemically it is
Amylose: Linear polymer of low mol. Wt.
Amylopectin: High molecular wt. Branched polymer Water
insoluble
 SCOURING
TREATMENT OF COTTON WITH ALKALINE
SOLUTION
PURPOSE

REMOVE NATURAL IMPURITIES : FATS AND WAXES,

PECTIC SUBSTANCES, PROTINES

REMOVE ADDED IMPURITY : OIL STAINS

SEED COAT FRAGMENTS

IMPROVE WATER ABSORBENCY FOR UNIFORM DYEING,

PRINTING AND FINISHING.
PRINCIPLE
Hydrolysis of impurities
 INDUSTRIAL PRACTICES EQUIPMENT
USED
BATCH WISE OPERATION
1. KIER ( ROPE FORM )
2. JIGGER (OPEN WIDTH )
3. WINCH (ROPE FORM, PARTICULARLY FOR KNITS )
4. JET DYING (ROPE FORM, PARTICULARLY FOR KNITS )

CONTINUOUS
1. J BOX ( ROPE FORM )
2. VARIOUS PAD STEAM PROCESSES (OPEN WIDTH )

SEMI-CONTINUOUS
1. PAD ROLL (OPEN WIDTH)
 Continuous Processing

J-Box (Rope Form)

Continuous (Open width)

Saturator, Steamer, Washer.
Semi-Continuous

Pad-Batch (Open Width form)