New Formulation Possibilities with a Water-in-oil

Silicone Emulsifier Suitable for PEG-free Systems

Cindy Delvall
Concettina Scavuzzo
Alice Delaunay

Dow Corning Europe S.A., Belgium

Sayuri Sawayama
Seiki Tamura
Tatsuo Souda
Seiji Hori

Dow Corning Co. Ltd., Japan

INTRODUCTION
Silicone-based water-in-silicone
and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers
have existed since the mid-1980s,
and a broad range of these
materials is now available. W/O
systems provide benefits such as
wash-off resistance, substantivity,
improved barrier properties,
emolliency, moisturization and, in
some cases, can influence the
penetration of actives (see
references 1 and 2).
Silicone-based emulsifiers can
impart the same benefits without
most of the drawbacks associated
with water-in-oil systems, such as
greasy feel, difficult and costly
manufacturing and less
formulation flexibility when
Figure 1. Dow Corning Water-in-oil Silicone Emulsifiers Product Range Mapping of Dow Corning Emulsifiers
(formulation texture and oil type)
1 6
High viscosity emulsion, cream/gel
2 7
Low viscosity emulsion, milky lotion
3
Dow Corning BY 11-030
4
Dow Corning BY 25-337
5
Dow Corning ES-5227 Formulation Aid
compared to oil-in-water systems
(see references 1 and 2). Silicone
emulsifiers also provide broader
options for oil phase, expanded
texture and sensory possibilities.
Dow Corning has been
successfully selling W/O silicone
emulsifiers based on silicone
polyether structures, generally
known as PEG/PPG-X/Y
Dimethicone, for many years.
Figure 1 shows the range of
Dow Corning W/O silicone
emulsifier products.
However, formulators continue to
search for emulsifiers offering
broad oil phase flexibility to cover
silicone and organic oils and
silicone oil/organic oil blends,
Dow Corning 5225C Formulation Aid
Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid
8
Dow Corning ES-5226 DM Formulation Aid
9
Dow Corning 9011 Silicone Elastomer Blend
10
Dow Corning FZ-2233
low odor and low irritancy. In
addition, the majority of the
silicone emulsifiers currently
available contain polyethylene
glycol (PEG) functionality even
though there is a growing interest
in limiting the use of such
substances driven by concern over
potential skin irritation. Therefore,
Dow Corning developed Cetyl
Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)
silylethyl Dimethicone1 (referred
to as silicone glycerol emulsifier in
the rest of the article), a new W/O
silicone emulsifier suitable for
PEG-free formulation systems.
This product helps enhance the
performance of color cosmetics
and sunscreen formulations.
1
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol
Emulsifier
11
Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid
12
Dow Corning ES-5612 Formulation Aid
13
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone
Glycerol Emulsifier
CONCEPT OF
MATERIAL DESIGN
A new W/O emulsifier was
designed to provide
multifunctional benefits, such as
an emulsifier for a broad range of
oil phases, as a high performance
dispersing aid and also for
improved sensory aesthetic using a
hydrophilic group other than
polyethylene glycol (PEG). In the
new emulsifier, the PEG
functionality was replaced by a
diglycerol hydrophilic
functionality combined with a dual
hydrophobic portion: alkyl and
silicone dendron (see table 1 and
figure 2). The multifunctional
structure improves compatibility
with both organic and silicone oils,
and the diglycerol functionality
contributes to high pigment and
powder dispersing performance.
Table 1. Typical Properties of Results of emulsification testing
Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier with silicone oil (Dimethicone 5
cSt) and mineral oil (MO) are
Appearance Liquid shown in figures 3-6. Silicone
Viscosity 2,000-5,000 mm2/s glycerol emulsifier makes the
Active % Non-diluted lowest viscosity emulsion, as
HLB 2 (calculated value*) shown in figure 3. Figure 4
illustrates the excellent emulsion
D4 Level < 0.1%
stability at high temperatures for
D5 Level < 0.1% the different ratios of
*HLB calculated with IOB (Inorganic-Organic silicone/mineral oil. The particle
Balance) value
size does not vary even after 1
HIGH PERFORMANCE month at 50C (see figures 5 and
EMULSIFIER 6). Oil phase flexibility with
This silicone glycerol emulsifier organic oils is shown in figure 7.
has been designed to emulsify a This W/O silicone glycerol
broad range of oil phases. Thanks emulsifier can make stable
to its dual hydrophobic portions, emulsions with a variety of oil
alkyl and silicone dendron in phases. Figure 8 shows the
optimum ratio, it is compatible stability of the emulsions
with both silicone oils and organic viscosity with different oil phases.
oils.

Figure 2. Chemical Design of Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier [Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone]

Flexible Siloxane Backbone

Hydrophilic Group Unique Silicone Alkyl Group

(Diglycerol) Dendron Group (Cetyl)
Figure 3. Emulsion Viscosity (2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 25/75 )

5cs: XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS Stability test at 50C

MO: Mineral oil Measurement: E-type viscometer, 0.5 rpm, 25C

Figure 4: Evolution of Viscosity after Aging at 50C (2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 25/75)

5cs: XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS

MO: Mineral oil
Figure 5. Emulsion Particle Size (2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 25/75)

5cs: XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS

MO: Mineral oil

Figure 6. Micrographs of Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone Emulsion Particles

(2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 25/75)

After 1 Month
Initial
at 50C

5cs

5cs/MO
(50/50)

MO

5cs: XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS

MO: Mineral oil
Figure 7. Emulsion Particle Size with Variety of Oil Phases
(2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 20/80, silicone/organic oils: 9/9%)

Silicone:
5cs: XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS

Organic Oils:
ID: Isododecane
IOTG: Triethylhexanoin
CIO: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
GTCC: Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
Jojoba oil
Figure 8: Evolution of Viscosity after Aging at 50C
(2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 20/80, silicone/organic oils: 9/9%, organic oils: ID, IOTG, CIO, GTCC and jojoba oil)

Silicone: Organic Oils: CIO: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

5cs: XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone ID: Isododecane GTCC: Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
Fluid 5CS IOTG: Triethylhexanoin Jojoba oil

HIGH PERFORMANCE
DISPERSANT
The presence of a hydrophilic Silicone glycerol emulsifier has has a low viscosity, potentially
portion is a key element for a diglycerol functionality, setting it contributing to better SPF values
dispersing agent. Many recent aside from the existing PEG- and reduced whitening effects in
cosmetic products contain modified silicone emulsifier sun care products. Figure 10
powders, either for cosmetic products. Table 2 shows the demonstrates the evolution of
pigments or physical sunscreens. viscosity slurry made with several slurry viscosities over time.
Achieving optimum powder silicone emulsifier products. This Silicone glycerol emulsifier is
dispersion is key to making stable new emulsifier provides the lowest stable even under high temperature
formulations. Hydrophilic groups viscosity among the major silicone conditions, whereas emulsifiers
adhere to these particles while the emulsifiers tested. Figure 9 with PEG-containing products
hydrophobic groups prevent illustrates the slurries result in increasing viscosities.
particle aggregation. appearances. Well-dispersed slurry

Table 2. Viscosity of TiO2 Slurry (TiO2/carrier fluid/emulsifier = 40/50/10)

Polydimethylsiloxyethyl
silylethyl Dimethicone

silylethyl Dimethicone

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3
Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl)
Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)

Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1

Dimethicone (and)
Caprylic/Capric
Cetyl Diglyceryl

Glyceryl Lauryl
Lauryl PEG-10

(No dispersant)
Dimethicone

Dimethicone
Triglyceride

Control
Carrier

Initial Caprylyl
317 400 5850 5010 Gel 970 Paste
Viscosity Methicone
(mPas)
Isohexadecane 233 264 Gel 1110 Not tested 552 Not tested
at 10 rpm
Figure 9. TiO2 Slurries Dispersions in Caprylyl Methicone (TiO2/carrier fluid/emulsifier = 40/50/10)

Cetyl Diglyceryl Lauryl PEG-10 PEG-10 Cetyl PEG/ Bis-(Glyceryl/ Lauryl Control
Tris(Trimethyl- Tris(Trimethyl- Dimethicone PPG-10/1 Lauryl) Glyceryl Polyglyceryl-3
siloxy)silylethyl siloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone Lauryl Dimethicone Polydimethyl-
Dimethicone Dimethicone (and) Caprylic/ siloxyethyl
Capric Triglyceride Dimethicone

Figure 10. Viscosity of Slurry with Time

In color cosmetics, silicone
glycerol emulsifiers high pigment
dispersion performance improves
the color intensity of foundations.
A colorimeter evaluation (see
figure 11) demonstrates that the
color of a foundation (see
formulation 1) using this W/O
silicone glycerol emulsifier as
dispersant is more intense than the
control at 99% confidence. The
visual difference was confirmed by
panel of 21 people (see figure 12).
Silicone glycerol emulsifier also
helps to disperse pigments
homogeneously, providing
uniform coverage and resulting in
an even tone. Visual evaluation of
pictures taken with VISIA-CR2
2
The VISIA-CR equipment is a facial imaging
booth coupled with a high resolution SLR
camera to analyze skin imperfections such as
wrinkles, fine lines, spots and pores.
equipment reveals that a control
foundation (see formulation 1)
shows more foundation/pigment
residue in wrinkles compared with
the same formulation using the
new emulsifier as the dispersing
agent (at 99.9% confidence 5
minutes after application of the
foundation; at 95% confidence 15
minutes after application) (see
figure 13).
Formulation 1. Foundation Formulations

Control ES-5600
Trade Name INCI Name/Ingredient
Wt % Wt %
Dow Corning ES-5600 Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)
5 5
Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier silylethyl Dimethicone
XIAMETER PMX-200
Dimethicone 4.5 4.5
Silicone Fluid 2cs
A
Neo Heliopan AV Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 3 3
Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 4 4
Dow Corning EL-9240 Dimethicone (and)
1.5 1.5
Silicone Elastomer Blend Dimethicone Crosspolymer
SA-TAO-77891 CI 77891 (and) Dimethicone 5.03 5.03
SA-C33-1700 Yellow Iron Oxide (and) Dimethicone 0.94 0.94
SA-C33-2199 Red Iron Oxide (and) Dimethicone 0.22 0.22
B SA-C33-5000 Black Iron Oxide (and) Dimethicone 0.062 0.062
Dow Corning ES-5600 Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)
/ 0.5
Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier silylethyl Dimethicone
Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 3.75 3.25
Water 62 62
Glycerin 8 8
C
Sodium Chloride 1 1
Euxyl PE 9010 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyglycerin 1 1

Figure 11. Colorimeter Evaluation (study performed on 4 panelists)

Control Foundation Foundation with Silicone

Glycerol Emulsifier
as Dispersant
Figure 12. Visual Evaluation after Absorption (performed on 21 people)

Figure 13. Visual Evaluation of Pictures Taken with VISIA-CR Equipment (performed on 24 panelists)

Control Foundation Foundation with Silicone Glycerol

Emulsifier as Dispersant

SENSORY ENHANCER formulation made with other PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, as

Silicone glycerol emulsifier also
improves the sensory profile of
cosmetics formulations making
them easier to apply and more
comfortable to wear. When used in
sun care products, such as in
formulation 2, it reduces tackiness
after absorption of the formulation
on the skin compared to the same
silicone emulsifiers [Lauryl PEG- shown in figure 14.
10 Tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl
Dimethicone3 and Lauryl Compared to Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone4]. Dimethicone, it provides better
After absorption, it also provides a spreadability (at 95% confidence)
smoother and more slippery feel during absorption of the
than the sun cream with Lauryl formulation on the skin and less
tackiness after absorption (at 95%
3
Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid confidence), as mentioned in
4
Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid figure 15.
Formulation 2. Face Care with Very High Sun Protection (SPF 50+ in vitro)

Cetyl
Lauryl
Diglyceryl
PEG-10 Tris
Tris Lauryl PEG/ Cetyl PEG/
(Trimethyl-
Trade (Trimethyl- PPG-18/18 PPG-10/1
INCI Name siloxy)
Name/Supplier siloxy) Methicone Dimethicone
silylethyl
silylethyl
Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Wt % Wt % Wt % Wt %
Tinosorb S/BASF Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
2 2 2 2
Corporation Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Neo Heliopan Ethylhexyl
A 5 5 5 5
AV/Symrise Methoxycinnamate
Neo Heliopan
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5 5 5 5
OS/Symrise
Dow Corning Cetyl Diglyceryl
ES-5600 Silicone Tris(Trimethylsiloxy) 7 / / /
Glycerol Emulsifier silylethyl Dimethicone
Lauryl PEG-10
Tris(Trimethylsiloxy) / 7 / /
silylethyl Dimethicone
B Lauryl PEG-10/
/ / 7 /
PPG-18/18 Methicone
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
/ / / 7
Dimethicone
Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 6.7 6.7 6.7 6.7
XIAMETER PMX-200
Dimethicone 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3
Silicone Fluid 5cs
Crodamol AB/Croda C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 8 8 8 8
Cetiol CC/BASF
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Corporation
Dow Corning
Phenyl trimethicone 2 2 2 2
556 Fluid
Water 51.5 51.5 51.5 51.5
C Gylcerin 5 5 5 5
Sodium Chloride 1 1 1 1
Tinosorb M/BASF Methylene Bis-Benzotrazolyl
D 5 5 5 5
Corporation Tetramethylbutylphenol
E Glydant 2000/Lonza DMDM Hydanton 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

Procedure:
1. Mix the ingredients of phase A and heat to 85C during 10 minutes.
2. Mix ingredients of phase A to phase B until homogeneous.
3. Mix all ingredients of phase C until homogeneous.
4. Slowly add phase C to phase A+B, drop by drop, while mixing at 700 rpm.
5. After the addition is complete, mix for an additional 5 minutes at 2000 rpm.
6. Add phase D, then phase E, and mix for 5 minutes at 2000 rpm.
7. Pass through high shear mixer (Silverson: 45 s for 150 gr).
Figure 14. Sensory on Suncare Formulation 2 Comparison of Different Dow Corning W/O Silicone Emulsifiers
(evaluation performed on 21 panelists)

Before Absorption After Absorption

Slipperiness (95%)
Smoothness (95%)
Whitening (95%)

Tackiness (95%)
Spreadability

Film Residue
Absorbency

Greasiness
Whitening
Tackiness

Cetyl Diglyceryl Cetyl Diglyceryl

Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl a a a a Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl a a a a b a
Dimethicone Dimethicone
Lauryl PEG-10 Lauryl PEG-10
Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl b a a a Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl a a a a a a
Dimethicone Dimethicone
Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18
c a a a a a a b a b
Methicone Methicone
For each parameter, the use of the same letter indicates the products show For each parameter, the use of the same letter indicates the products show no
no significant difference (95% confidence). significant difference (95% confidence).

Figure 15. Sensory on Sun Care Formulation 2 Comparison with Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
(evaluation performed on 21 panelists)

Before Absorption After Absorption

Thanks to its ability to disperse
fine particles, such as physical
sunscreens (titanium dioxide and
zinc oxide), silicone glycerol
emulsifier decreases the whitening
effect of sun care products. Indeed,
a sun care lotion (see formulation
3) containing physical sunscreens
and using this new emulsifier as
dispersant leaves less white residue
than the control formulation and
the one made with Cetyl
PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (see
figure 16).

Formulation 3. Sun Care Lotion for Body Protection (SPF 30 in vitro)

Cetyl
Diglyceryl Cetyl PEG/
Control Tris(Trimethyl- PPG-10/1
Trade Name/Supplier INCI Name
siloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone
Dimethicone
Wt % Wt % Wt %
Neo Heliopan AV/Symrise Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6 6 6
Neo Heliopan OS/Symrise Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3 3 3
Dow Corning ES-5600 Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)
5 5 5
Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier silylethyl Dimethicone
A Crodamol AB/Croda C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3 3 3
Arlamol HD/Croda Isohexadecane 1 1 1
Dow Corning 9041 Dimethicone (and)
3 3 3
Silicone Elastomer Blend Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Zinc Oxide NDM/Symrise Zinc Oxide (and) Dimethicone 4 4 4
Dow Corning ES-5600 Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)
/ 1.5 /
Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier silylethyl Dimethicone
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone / / 1.5
B
Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminum
MTY-02/Tayca 6 6 6
hydroxide (and) Silica (and) Dimethicone

Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 9 7.5 7.5
Glycerin 5 5 5
Sodium Chloride 1 1 1
C
Water 53.7 53.7 53.7
Glydant 2000/Lonza DMDM Hydanton 0.3 0.3 0.3

Procedure:
1. Mix phase A ingredients together.
2. Mix phase B ingredients together.
3. Mix phase C ingredients together.
4. Add phase B to phase A with gentle mixing.
5. Add phase C to AB mixing at 2000 rpm for 5 min.
Figure 16. Whitening Effect of Suncare Lotion (Formulation 3)

Control Cetyl Diglyceryl Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1

Tris(Trimethylsiloxy) Dimethicone
silylethyl Dimethicone
Figure 17. Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier in Three Skin Care Formulations which Reveal the Beauty by Experiencing Textures
that Perfectly Match Each Skin Type

FORMULATION Comfort Me: A nourishing and Formulation 7, which is a CC

POSSIBILITIES
Silicone glycerol emulsifier is a
versatile product offering a broad
range of formulation possibilities,
product forms and textures. It
gives formulators flexibility for
developing skin care products from
lotions to balms; color cosmetics,
such as fluid foundations, BB or
CC creams; sun care sprays or
creams and even clear
antiperspirants and deodorants.
A set of three skin care
formulations (see figure 17)
illustrates some of the possibilities
it can offer, such as different
textures and sensory profiles,
allowing a wide range of
positioning depending on the
skin type.
moisturizing balm for dry skin,
this formulation contains
natural ingredients and long-
lasting moisturizing actives (see
formulation 4).
Make Me Breathe: A stabilize
purifying gel cream for mixed
to oily skin, this formulation
contains ingredients for sebum
absorption as well as
seboregulating, antiseptic and
antimicrobial actives. It also
contains high levels of organic
oils showing the good
flexibility of the emulsifying
system (see formulation 5).
Boost Me: This is a revitalizing
and energizing gel for dull and
tired skin containing rhodiola
rosea extract, which provides
anti-stress activity and well-
being effect (see formulation 6).
cream color change with an SPF of
20 (calculated with BASF
Sunscreen Simulator5),
demonstrates the ability of this
silicone glycerol emulsifier to
systems using a
combination of pigments and
sunscreens. It can also make
stable, clear antiperspirant and
deodorant gels and roll-ons (as
described in formulation 8) with
improved aesthetics when
compared to current PEG-
containing emulsifiers.
5
The BASF Sunscreen Simulator is a tool
enabling the estimation of the Sunburn
Protection Factor (SPF), as well as various
common UVA-Metrics. This tool helps the
formulator plan the composition of active
ingredients in a sunscreen formulation, but does
not replace the actual formulation work and in
vivo SPF testing of the final product.
Formulation 4. Comfort Me Nourishing and Moisturizing Balm for Dry Skin

Trade Name/Supplier INCI Name Wt %

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier 5
Dimethicone
Dow Corning 2503 Cosmetic Wax Stearyl Dimethicone (and) Octadecane 11.5
Dow Corning AMS-C30 Wax C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (and) C30-45 Olefin 3.5
XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2cs Dimethicone 3
Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 2
A
Dry-Flo PC/AkzoNobel Personal Care Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 1
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and)
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil
Orange Butter/Biochemica 2
(and) Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Wax
(and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Peach Kernel Oil/A&E Connock Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil 1.5
Water 61.9
Sodium Chloride 1
Propanediol 4
Water (aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glycerin
B
(and) Fructose (and) Urea (and) Citric Acid (and)
Hydroviton Plus/Symrise Sodium Hydroxide (and) Maltose (and) Sodium PCA 2
(and) Sodium Chloride (and) Sodium Lactate (and)
Trehalose (and) Allantoin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate
C Euxyl PE9010/Schlke & Mayr Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5
Color Additive 1 0.7
D
Color Additive 2 0.4

Procedure:
1. Mix phase A ingredients at 800 rpm and heat at 90C (using a hot water bath).
2. Mix phase B ingredients at 600 rpm and heat at 90C (using a hot water bath).
3. Add phase B to phase A very slowly at 800 rpm. It is very important that both phases are at the same temperature
during the phase addition.
4. At the end of phase B addition, mix strongly at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
5. Pass through high shear mixer (Silverson 30 sec/100 g) when formulation is still hot and quite liquid.
6. Add phases C and D under mixing and let cool down to room temperature.
Formulation 5. Make Me Breathe Purifying Gel Cream for Mixed to Oily Skin

Trade Name/Supplier INCI Name Wt %

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier 4
Dimethicone
Dub ININ/Stearinerie Dubois Isononyl Isononanoate 4
A Dow Corning EL-8040 Silicone Elastomer Blend Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer 8
Isododecane 10.8
Magnesium Stearate 4
Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles Silica Silylate 0.3
Zemea/Dupont Tate & Lyle Propanediol 5
Ethanol 5
Sodium Chloride 1
Water 53.1
Extrapone Glacier Water GW/Symrise Glycerin (and) Water 2
Propylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Salvia Officinalis
B
(Sage) Leaf Extract (and) Nasturtium Officinale
Extract (and) Arctium Majus Root Extract (and)
Polyplant Oily Skin/Provital Group 1
Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract (and) Hedera
Helix (Ivy) Leaf Extract (and) Saponaria Officinalis
Leaf/Root Extract (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Color Additive 0.8
C Euxyl PE9010/Schlke & Mayr Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.3
D Eau Vive 638669/Symrise Perfume 0.7

Procedure:
1. Mix ingredients of phase A together until homogeneous.
2. Mix ingredients of phase B together until homogeneous.
3. Slowly add phase B to phase A while mixing at 700 rpm.
4. Increase mixing to 1000 rpm while adding phase B.
5. Mix for 5 minutes at 1500 rpm.
6. Add phases C and D separately while mixing.
Formulation 6. Boost Me Revitalizing and Energizing Gel for Dull and Tired Skin

Trade Name/Supplier INCI Name Wt %

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier 1
Dimethicone
Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 4.7
A
XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5cs Dimethicone 8.5
Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer 9.4
Euxyl PE9010/Schlke & Mayr Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5
Water 36.8
Glycerin 36.8
B
Sodium Chloride 1
Happy Skin/Provital Group Rhodiola Rosea Extract 0.5
C Tonica FC10619/Symrise Perfume 0.2
D Color Additive 0.8

Procedure:
1. Mix ingredients of phase A (400-500 rpm) until homogeneous.
2. Premix phase B until homogeneous.
3. Slowly add phase B to phase A while mixing at 800 rpm.
4. Increase mixing speed to 1300 rpm.
5. Add phases C and D, then mix for 1 minute at 2000 rpm.
Formulation 7. Instant Nude CC Cream Color Change

Trade Name/Supplier INCI Name Wt %

Neo Heliopan AV/Symrise Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4
A Neo Heliopan 303/Symrise Octocrylene 3
Neo Heliopan OS/Symrise Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2
Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier 6
Dimethicone
Dow Corning FZ-3196 Caprylyl Methicone 3
Crodamol AB/Croda C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3
B Isododecane 3
Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3
Dow Corning 680 ID Fluid Polypropylsilsesquioxane (and) Isododecane 1.5
Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminium Hydroxide (and)
LTS-2 TiO2 R250/Daito Kasei 1.5
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Water 52
Glycerin 4
Sodium Chloride 1
C
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate/BASF Corporation Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1
Water (and) Glycerin (and) Enteromorpha Compressa
Homeostatine M.S./Provital Group 2.5
Extract (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum
RonaFlair Balance Gold/Merck Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica (and) Tin Oxide 0.2
UV Titan M170/EMD Chemicals Inc. Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Methicone 5
D Blanova Vitamin E Acetate/Azelis Tacopheryl Acetate 0.5
Euxyl PE9010/Schlke & Mayr Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyglycerin 0.5
Cashmere Silk II/CPL Aromas Perfume 0.3
E Tagra Red/Yellow/BlackCap1/Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd. Red/Yellow/Black Iron Oxide (and) Titanium Dioxide 3

Procedure:
1. Mix phase A ingredients together and heat to 85C.
2. Cool to room temperature.
3. Mix phase B ingredients together.
4. Add phase B to phase A while mixing.
5. Mix phase C ingredients together.
6. Add phase C to AB with gentle mixing (500 rpm).
7. Increase mixing speed to 1000 rpm.
8. Add phase D ingredients in order listed under stirring and homogenize until uniform.
9. Mix at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
10. Add phase E delicately (700 rpm) using a marine propeller.
Formulation 8. No Stress Clear Gel AP/Deo Roll-on

Trade Name/Supplier INCI Name Wt %

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier 2
Dimethicone
A
XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2cs Dimethicone 12
Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid Phenyl Trimethicone 4
Aluminium Zirconium Octachlorohydrex Glycine
Reach AZO 956G/Summit Reheis 45
(and) Water
Glycerin 5.5
B
Propanediol 12.5
Water 18.5
Euxyl PE9010/Schlke & Mayr Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexyglycerin 0.5

Procedure:
1. Mix ingredients of phase A (400-500 rpm) until homogeneous.
2. Mix ingredients of phase B together.
3. Match the refractive index of phase A to that of phase B.
4. If the refractive index of phase A is higher than that of phase B, add glycerin/propylene glycol to phase B to match. If
lower, add water to phase B to match.
5. Slowly add phase A to Phase B under mixing at 700 rpm.
6. When phase B is added, mix for an additional 3 minutes at 2000 rpm.

Figure 18. Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier Formulation Kit

CONCLUSIONS REFERENCES
The development of Cetyl 1. I. Van Reeth , X. R. Bao, Y.
Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy) Kaneta,C. Delvall, B. Durand,
silylethyl Dimethicone provides Silicone Emulsifiers:
expanded options for formulating Understanding Formulation
stable PEG-free water-in-oil and Parameters for Efficient and
water-in-silicone emulsions. It also Innovative Development,
offers new opportunities to make Cosmetics & Toiletries
more cost-effective formulations (October 2011)
due to its process flexibility since 2. I. Van Reeth, X. R. Bao, B.
it allows the use of low- or high- Durand, I. Vervier, K.
shear mixing and cold process. Yasuhiro, C. Delvall, Silicone
Emulsifiers: New
Silicone glycerol emulsifier is a Developments and Formulation
high performing emulsifier and Concepts, 26th IFSCC
dispersant, as well as a sensory Congress, Buenos Aires
enhancer, and offers versatility for (September 2023, 2010)
the development of highly
innovative cosmetic products.
Therefore, formulators can explore
new possibilities with silicone
emulsifiers to respond to ongoing
demands from consumers for
products with innovative texture,
feel and improved performance.

LIMITED WARRANTY INFORMATION PLEASE READ CAREFULLY

The information contained herein is offered in good faith and is believed to be accurate. However,
because conditions and methods of use of our products are beyond our control, this information should
not be used in substitution for customers tests to ensure that Dow Cornings products are safe, effective,
and fully satisfactory for the intended end use. Suggestions of use shall not be taken as inducements to
infringe any patent.
Dow Cornings sole warranty is that the product will meet the Dow Corning sales specifications in effect
at the time of shipment. Your exclusive remedy for breach of such warranty is limited to refund of
purchase price or replacement of any product shown to be other than as warranted.
DOW CORNING SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS ANY OTHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED
WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY.
DOW CORNING DISCLAIMS LIABILITY FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL
DAMAGES.
Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation.
We help you invent the future is a trademark of Dow Corning Corporation.
2014 Dow Corning Corporation. All rights reserved.
Printed in USA 30019513 27-1463A-01