ESR meter al lui Go

Hi ,
Somebody make this ESR ESR-go-russian , is working with on site firmware ?

Thank you
Costas

Hi,
yes, I did. The hex file work as is. I had to make some minor corrections:
1 - 220Kohm - LM393 pin 3 to +5V - this is to show the correct capacitance. You can modify
this value until shown the correct value.
2 - replaced the R4 ( 22Kohm variable ) with 2 fixed resistors. 10K from -5V to R5 and
aprox 7,5Kohm from +5V to R5. the 7,5K was made from 30K + 30k + 10k all3 in paralell.
3 - jumper jmp1 must be shorted. Is the supply for PIC.
I did use IRF640 instead of IRF530, VD4 and VD5 - 1n4148
It is working great. I can measure capacitors without desoldering them. Tested on
Motherboard, VGA board, swiching power supply, inverters.
It cost me abbout 30 USD ( including plastic case and test leads )

Good luck.

Hi ,
Thank you for your opinion , I make this device and wok fine ....look attach .
Costas
costas or bkelciov,
can you please try to measure a battery (AA or AAA) (an old one and a new one) and tell us
the results with the GO esr meter ?
it is to see if we can measure the internal resistance of a battery with this meter
(like the kinza meter does here : I Make by combining materials and parts of ESR METER -
Help Plz)
thanks.

Hi,
NO , you can't measure any kind of battery beacause of the 2 diode put in parallel of the
tester leads to prevent voltage above 0,6 V.

it is not to measure the voltage of the battery, it is to measure the internal resistance of the
battery.
kinza schematic (esr-kinza) also have two diodes behind the probe... and it can measure the
internal resistance of a battery, which can give a good idea of the real capacity of the
battery...
thanks.
esr-kinza have 0,47uF capacitor betwen probes and diodes. GO-ESR does not.

two devices have different measurement principles, Go-esr measure internal resistance by
shorting the capacitor with a MOS-FET, if I try to measure a battery are big risks to destroy
the device. anyway at the first opportunity I will try .

Costas

Hi bkelciov, Good day, well two weeks ago when i look for a pic based ESR tester i found this
forum. It really impressed me to do this project. Buddy i'm so frustrated. i tried two
different circuit to acheive this go esr none of them work.
i used exact same components and i did the same modification you did it didn't work. All did
different is i used BC327 Transistor and 4.7nf caps for C1 & C2. All i'm seeing on the display
is just top line is lit no character and the bottom nothing.

What do you think any measuring points debug methods would you please help me. which
firmware you used?

my doubts are 1. when i mesure the voltage pin 5 on ICL7660 & 5+ i'm getting almost 10
volts but the diagram says it is -5 volts

2. How come no supply voltage for the IC CD4066 vdd & vss (pin 14 &7)

Would please kindly help me to resolve this problem

Thank you in advance.

Hi,
The PCB presented on the site does not contain the GND circuit. So I made one in the
air. Make sure You have the GND circuit. The LCD should work without the ICL7660, BC327,
CD4066.

Hi Bkelciov, Thank you for the instant reply. The LCD is working but no Characters showing
on to the display the image attached. what could be the problem you think?

I did made the made the ground circuit. i connected all the ground to 9v(-) including the
display grounds. also both TLO82 Pin 4 and R4 5- to the 7660 Pin 5
replace R30 and R31 with 22Ko variable and adjust until is showing something. Check to
have 5V on PIC. VDD to GND. JMP1 must be shorted. If is not working is meaning that the
program is not working inside the PIC. The reasons can be:
- PIC is defective
- the programm is not writen correctly in PIC
- Cr1 ( the 20MHz crystal ) is not working. This must not be a filter !!! It must be a crystal
quartz.
- C5 and C7 must be 22pF not nF
- C1 and C2 can be 4,7nF. I did use 4,7nF too.
- VD4 is 1N4148
- check the continuity of the circuit.
To see what you must see on display, try to use the "Real PIC Simulator" or "PIC simulator
IDE".
Good Luck !

Thanks buddy well i used 22nf caps so i'm gonna replace that gonna try R30 & 31 with
variable resistor. I'll let you know the results.

Would you please post me the right hex file (the one you used)because i tried the files i had
with the simulator it didn't work

Thanks again
Haran

Hi Bkelciov, i triple checked everything and did replaced to 22pf caps(C5,C7) change
another crystal reprogrammed a another PIC. Replaced VD4 diode into IN4148. Replaced
22k Variable resistor instead of R30 and R31 no luck.

Question what PIC you used? Mine is 16F873A .

Would you please send me the right HEX file so i can try again.

Thanks for your help pal.

Thanks again
Haran

Yeap, 16F873A is mine too.

Here is the hex:

:020000040000FA
:0400000000001628BE
:08000800B500030E8301B600F0
:100010000A08B700D80B0E285914C1280B1137084D
:100020008A00360E8300B50E350E090083120313C5
:10003000D9018B018A01850186013330870083163F
:100040000313FF30850084309F00C0308600C43029
:100050008700D321D321D321831203130330BF00A0
:10006000860086160000000000008612D321BF0B18
:1000700031280230860020222830FD210C30FD215D
:100080000630FD213F222A22051975285528051E14
:100090000223851E072305194728D91E5028DD2273
:1000A000DD0A5D08033C031D5628DD01D9122A2212
:1000B0001130332200308A005D08820763286928E6
:1000C0006F280C2347280030DE00C3222C30332257
:1000D00061280430DE00C322313033226128083029
:1000E000DE00C32220303322612883120313303014
:1000F00087000430F621071200000714831203134F
:1001000081309F00F5211F151F1984281E08D40077
:10011000831603131E0883120313D30083120313E1
:1001200089309F00F5211F151F1994281E08D6003D
:10013000831603131E0883120313D500D90103305D
:100140005602031DA5285914C5281B308700A3217A
:10015000DC21071FA828DC21972103305402031D4E
:10016000B728303087000430F6218712B9281830BC
:100170008700071BB9281014071DC1280C189E21E1
:10018000BC2890018B010C189E211B3087002A226D
:10019000591CCF28253033220E29AA012A172030D6
:1001A0003322A8015708A7000F08A6000E08A500D3
:1001B000051ADE286A2252304E220E2945232030AD
:1001C000C322EF241C30C32227240830AC22CB23C7
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:100270003322591E3E293E3012223F29312280303E
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:100310005608A7005508A6001B2396221030DE00C1
:10032000DD22AF212A2252303322C1215B298E01E6
:100330008F010C1000309000D70108000C10D70F6F
:1003400008005914C1284630D8008101813084004A
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:1003B000B9000030BA00E529831203133E30B800BB
:1003C0000030B9000030BA00E529FF30B807031843
:1003D0000301B90703180301BA070318030138041E
:1003E00039043A04031DE52908001F30B800B80B92
:1003F000F729000000000800C030BE003E0E0F3993
:100400008600861600000000000086123E080F39A4
:10041000860086160000000000008612DC2108001D
:100420000F393038BE003E0E0F3910388600861660
:1004300000000000000086123E080F3910388600C8
:10044000861600000000000086128601DC210800EC
:1004500002302B2A0130FD21D3292E30122A3030D0
:10046000122A2030122ABF00BF0307308A003F083B
:100470000027FF39031908001222BF0A372A483023
:10048000FD2107308A001030BF000030C000002777
:100490001222C00A4008BF0B472A08008400000E41
:1004A0001022000810224E300402031908008403B1
:1004B0004F2A8400800E0008D91C622A0F390319C4
:1004C0000800D910D91D102ADC0803192F2ADC03D3
:1004D000102208002030C200CE01CF01D001D1018E
:1004E000D201A50DA60DA70DA80DCE0DCF0DD00DD7
:1004F000D10DD20DC20B7D2A08000530C0004E3050
:100500008400832A840A8722C00B822A712A03303E
:100510000007C100C119800030300007C100C11BB5
:1005200080000800BB002830BC009D2A2830BC0099
:100530002F309C2ABC002830BB000430BF003C0890
:1005400084000008BD003B0884003D088000BB0318
:10055000BC03BF0B9F2A0800C322B12245232724D6
:100560000800463092222F309A2246309722080007
:100570002F30BB2A283084000430BF008001840360
:10058000BF0BBE2A0800DA002F3084000430BF0001
:10059000D122831203138000DA0A8403BF0BC82A16
:1005A00008005A08831203178D00831603178C1353
:1005B0000C14831203170C0808005E08DA002F30B1
:1005C00084000430BF000008DB00ED228312031317
:1005D000DA0A8403BF0BE32A0800831603178C187A
:1005E000EF2A831203175A088D005B088C008316CC
:1005F00003178C130C1555308D00AA308D008C1408
:100600000C110800D916AC0A0319AD0A0C2BD91627
:10061000AC080319AD03AC032F309A226A22FC21E7
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:100630005922CA2108008E30A8002708A900A71F48
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:10065000031D302B2608A7000319402BA601B31554
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:10068000A701A601A501A80100349630A800A90180
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:1006A0000319A70AA917B3012708031D682B2608F9
:1006B000A7002508A600A501B3152708031D682B70
:1006C0002608A700A601B311331627080319402BEB
:1006D0003308A802031D031CE32C0310A71B762B71
:1006E000A50DA60DA70DA80B6E2BE32C2A1B261C0F
:1006F0003D2BA51F3D2BA60A0319A70A031D3D2B61
:10070000A70CA60CA80A03196D2C3D2B2808031969
:1007100000342708A900A7178E30A802A81FC02BF5
:10072000A809A80A08302802031CA62BA800A60DB9
:100730002708A600A70108302802031CA62BA80042
:10074000A60DA6012808031D0310AE2B28080319C7
:10075000AE2B0310A70CA60CA80BA92B2A1B261C3A
:10076000B82B031CB82BA60A0319A70AA71BC02B7A
:10077000A91F0034A609A709A60A0319A70A00346D
:100780002A14AA1FFF34A701A91FFF30A700A60043
:10079000A90DA70CFF34A501280803190034270868
:1007A000A900A7179630A802A81F1B2CA809A80A01
:1007B00008302802031CF72BA800A50D2608A50069
:1007C0002708A600A70108302802031CF72BA80061
:1007D000A50D2608A500A60108302802031CF72B4A
:1007E000A800A50DA5012808031D0310002C28084A
:1007F0000319002C0310A70CA60CA50CA80BFA2BB0
:100800002A1B251C0C2C031C0C2CA50A0319A60A58
:100810000319A70AA71B1B2CA91F0034A709A609A7
:10082000A509A50A0319A60A0319A70A0034A701F6
:10083000A601A50100342A14AA1FFF34A701A91F8D
:10084000FF30A700A600A500A90DA70CFF342808BB
:10085000031D2F080319402B27082E06A9002F0877
:10086000A8077E30031C382CA80203186D2C3B2CE3
:10087000A802031CE32C2708A5002608A400A5173E
:10088000AE170310A701A6011030B300241C4E2C94
:100890002D08A6072E0803182E0FA707A70CA60CD5
:1008A000A50CA40C0310B30B462CA71B5B2CA50DA9
:1008B000A60DA70DA8032A1B261C6A2CA51F6A2CAF
:1008C000A60A0319A70A031D6A2CA70CA60CA80ADE
:1008D00003196D2CA91FA7130034AA14AA1FFF34F3
:1008E000FF30A800A700A600A90DA70CFF342F0811
:1008F0000319ED2C28080319402B27082E06A90000
:10090000A717AE17B3012708A5002608A4002D08D5
:10091000A4022E08031C2E0FA502A501A401031C8E
:10092000972C0310A70CA60CA50C0130B3002F08C0
:10093000A802031CA12C7E303307A80703186D2CD6
:10094000A62C7E303307A807031CE32C1030B2001E
:10095000A40DA50DA60DA70DB30D2D08A6022E08FA
:10096000031C2E0FA7022E0DB304331CB92C241424
:10097000C02C2D08A6072E0803182E0AA70724103E
:10098000B20BA82C2A1B241CDC2C0310A60DA70DCF
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:1009A00033040139A4070318A50A031DDC2CA50C88
:1009B000A40CA80A03196D2CA91FA5132508A700CC
:1009C0002408A60000342A15AA1FFF340130A8000D
:1009D000A701A601A90DA70CFF34AA15FF3480308A
:1009E000AE0627082E06B300A501AC0128082F0289
:1009F000031C0C2D2F08A3002808AF002308A80013
:100A00002E08A3002708AE002308A7002D08A30086
:100A10002608AD002308A6002F0803190034270874
:100A2000A900A717AE172F082802AF000319322D0F
:100A300008302F02031C292DAF002D08AC002E0812
:100A4000AD00AE0108302F02031C292D2908A70094
:100A500000342F080319322D0310AE0CAD0CAC0C72
:100A6000AF0B2C2DB31F3C2DAC09AD09AE09AC0A60
:100A70000319AD0A0319AE0A2C08A5072D0803189F
:100A80002D0FA6072E0803182E0FA707B31B502DF6
:100A9000031C762BA70CA60CA50CA80F762B6D2C8F
:100AA0000318532BA509A609A709A50A0319A60A25
:0A0AB0000319A70A8030A906262BBF
:100E0000820700340E341134113411340A341B3487
:100E10000034003400341234123412341E341134CD
:100E2000103443346F346534663466342E342034E1
:100E300066346F34723400344534533452340034E1
:100E4000203443347834203400344334783420342C
:100E50002D342D342D3400342034313420340134F9
:100E6000003420343134303420340134003431340F
:100E700001343D34003420343134303401343D34D5
:100E800000345534303420342D342D342D343E3458
:100E9000203445344534503452344F344D342034AA
:100EA00020340034493474342034693473342034A9
:0E0EB000723465346134643479342134003492
:02400E00323F3F
:10420000000000000300E800000000000300E800D8
:10421000000000000300E800850016000000000018
:1042200081006000000000007500400030000C00BC
:104230007800740089008D0074002E00C3003E00D9
:084240008000400000000000B6
:00000001FF

Dear Bkelciov,You know what I have to tell you something you are my best buddy aye. I
have to thank you for all your responses.

Anyways still no luck with my ESR but Im not gonna give-up. You & I ruled out
everything. Now my suspicion is it either the LCD or both PIC s Im using. So I ordered 2
LCD and some PICs from an online store and I hope Ill receive it by next week.
What else could be aye?

Ill definitely let you know the feedback. Also this my first project dealing with LCD, I hope
this learning curve could give me an opportunity to learn more about some other stuff.

Thank again pal

Haran

Hi Haran
If you build schematics just like it should work, even if there are problems if the input does
not matter , if hex.file is good and links to display are correct , alphanumeric characters
should be on display , only job is to set the display contrast , for the blue display I used 18K
/ 1,5 K
I use PIC16F873 or 876 no problem with same hex file .
WBR
Costas

Thanx pal. Well Bkelciov & l ruled out most of the causes but still no luck. So i figured it
could be the Display or the PIC. Well i used same blue display with same 18k and 1.5k
config all i saw was the top row lit without any characters.
What do you think?
Thanks for you time buddy.
Haran

It look like the PIC does not work. Please post a picture of your device. A focused one, not
like the previous. Maybe I can see something wrong.
What programming software do you use? Try "PICPgm programmer".

check if you do not short circuit the wires to the display

or on pcb ...not only the continuity
Costas

hanks again pal Herewith i'm sending you the closeup shoots. The Pic programmer i used is
Enhanced PICkit 2 with Pikit 2 Programmer(Micro Chip). Here is the Hardware linkMCUmall
Electronics Inc. A low cost EPROM EEPROM Atmel PIC I2C SPI programmer online store

Hy Everyone.
I am Emilio from Argentina. I have just finished my ESR meter and neither it works. The
same Harans problem.
Probably are no set correctly the programming options on my universal programmer
(TOP2005+)?? Watchdog, Xtal Oscillator, etc...

I dont know wat to do! Help us!

Thanks everyone.

To Haran24 and Emiliojuan:

I don't see the 20MHz quartz cristal and the 22pF capacitors.
Try to reprogramm the PIC and check if the fuserbits are set like this:
Try to verify if the PIC is writen correctly: Read from the PIC and save to file and compare
the reading from PIC with the original hex file.
The circuit can work with the minimal components, like in this picture:
Emiliojuan,
Your display is not connected correctly.
Pin1 of the display is first on left. In your picture it looks like is the 3-rd from the right.

good programmer make auotomatic upload for config.register , the config. option are
stored in hex.file

---------- Post added at 09:43 ---------- Previous post was at 09:31 ----------

Are you sure the display is compatible with HD44780

protocol ?

Thank you buddies for your soon reply.

About LCD: Yes, is 44780 compatible (Winstar WH1602A). First pins on left are 15 and 16
(backlight). Pin 1 is the 3rd.
About 20MHz quartz cristal and 22pF capacitors: in the picture, they are behind the tact-
switches.
I supose PIC does not work. I will check programmer settings and compare hex files.
okey! lets work.
see you soon with news
... and THANKS, again.

I've never seen a pic not working ... it's always been somewhere else on the board, or the
pic programmer not the correct fuses ...
try to read the pic, and compare the result with what should be in the pic
and tell us the results !
good luck.

I've seen 2 PIC's dead inside 2 same type UPS. Dead means unable to read / write. Don't
remember what type / model of UPS.
But in this case, i think is abbout an programming error. I hope they will solve the problem.
I work every day with my c-esr meter. My vision abbout electrolytic capacitors changed
dramatically since i have this device. It's a "must have" device !!!
Don't give up. Make-it work.

Buddy Bkelciov Thanks for your encouragement. Also i have to thank the other buddies
Costas and the guy who gave me an idea to do this project Kripton Thank you guys.

Well there is a progress on my ESR photos attached. The thing is i'm not familiar with pf
Caps so i used 220(the digit) after i replaced with (22) the digit i hope it's the right 22pf cap
i'm getting the display below.

What i'm getting both rows lit; the first row with a solid box and the bottom with 0 but if
press the button for(+) the zero turns into ( ? )when i release it goes to 0 again.

My programmer, it wouldn't work with other software you recommended & its only works
with MPLAB IDE and Pickit 2

Also i did checked the fuserbits the way you instructed 3F32 still no luck.

The hex file i compared its puzzling me because the way it looks different the top 2nd and
3rd lines are missing and some other extra keys also showing. So i programmed a different
type of PIC 12F683 with fader LED program it also didn't match with original But it's working
grate . Exported file attached

Moreover i isolated the circuit on a breadboard just PIC , the LCD, 1N4148,10k,20MHZ,
22PF and 62Ks i'm getting the same display

Any ideas?
Haran24, your "Export.txt" is OK. So, you have a working PIC with a working program. I'll
try to change the quartz and elliminate the 22pF on my device to see what is happening.
Pleas tell the name / model of your display. It is 44780 compatible ?
It seem to be a problem with your display. Data lines of the display to data port of the PIC.

I'm also thinking to a lcd that's not fully compatible.

can you try with another lcd (from another brand ?)

Hi buddies, Well there is a good news my project succeeded 75% only. Now the display's
working and showing everything the problem was there was a invincible solder bridge
between D7 & D6 on the display panel PCB continuity tested failed but a magnifier found the
bridge.It's all my bad because i didn't solder properly.

Now the problem is it's not showing the capacitance value what could be the problem.
Which area it could be? I used several electrolytic caps but it's not showing CX value. photo
attached.

Thanks for your precious time

Haran

Check VT1, VD1, VD3 area for other bridges. Then check LM393 area.
Without capacitor on test leads ESR must be greater than 11.xxx
If that picture is without capacitor, then is a bridge in the test leads area.
For calibration, please read the first page of this thread.

Thanks Pal, Without Capacitor it shows ESR 0.000 and i couldn't find the calibration on page
1

MY CONFIGURATION IS
VT1 = BC327 (is it okay to use this Transistor?)
VD1,VD3 =1N4148

There is no bridges in LM393 VT1, VD1 & VD3 areas now i'm worried what's going on ?
Please help me I'm really sorry to bother you my friend

Thanks
Haran
I think it is OK for VT1 = BC327. Pinout of BC327 is diffrent from BC807 !!!
VD1=VD3=1N4148 is ok but I recomende 1N4007. Is safer if testing some accidentaly
charged capacitors.
Check with ohm-meter if there is a bridge betwen test leads. With ohm-meter on test leads
and ESR-meter powered ON, you should get alternating readings from 50 ohm to 700 ohm
or so. If ok, then DD1 ( CD4066 ) and / or DA1 ( TL082 ) are defective or that area. You
should get some readings without DA2 or DA3.
OMG. I have re-read your firs post.
Make sure if you have GND connected to pin7 of CD4066. And pin14 to +5V.

Finally My ESR tester is working. Thank you very much Bkelciov without your help I couldnt
have done this project. I bothered you almost a week and you answered every single
questions Thanks for your precious time.
The problem was I didnt connect pin 7 & 14 on CD4066.

Now how can I calibrate this unit?

Whats the failsafe range ESR value on a good Capacitor according to this unit?

The capacitor I tested 10UF 16v photo attached

Thanks very much pal,

Haran

Well done.
Is important to use some new capacitors and if it is possible from different makers.
Make note: This is not an accurate device. You don't need one. You will see differences from
good caps to bad caps. When you check for bridges on a main board, you will see that 1 cm
of printed circuit board have 0.010 ohm. Whit this reading You can pinpoint an electrical
bridge within 1 centimeter accuracy so You don't have to desolder 30-40 pieces from a
10cm radius area ( ha, ha, ha )
First make the "zero" point. DO NOT make the "zero" point equal to zero !!! Make-it greater,
0.005 - 0.020. This is done with the test leads "short-circuited". Use thiker test leads.
Then put a 1 OHM resistor on leads and check again.
Then use a 10 OHM resistor on test leads and check.
Use 1000uF / 16V and set the ESR to aprox 0.200. For the "C" showing, compare to several
NEW capacitors to a capacimeter.
This device can measure only electrolytics above 1uF.
Is not important the exact reading of the ESR. Is important the difference from a new cap to
an used / defective cap. This is verry important at smaller capacitors.
For example:
- new cap 47uF/63V readings: 46,3uF , ESR: 0,500 ( this an approximation !!! is not the
actual reading )
- used / defective cap 47uF / 50V readings: 43uF , ESR: 1,500.
Basically a bad cappacitor have ESR 3-4-6 times greater than a new one.
Check your device on greater capacitors or on more capacitors in parallel on a computer
motherboard.

This is all I can remember of callibration.

From now, You are on Your on.
Good luck.

Dear friends:
I continue without finding the fault in my circuit.
No shorts - no mistakes of connection (seemingly)
The uC that I am using is PIC16F873-04I/SP and not PIC16F873A.
Is it possible that there is the fail? Maybe?

Regards for all.

Please post some good pictures so we can see if there is something wrong with your tester.
Pictures from all possible angle, just like your device is on my table.
Did you read all the post from this thread ?

Hi Emiliojuan, Well i'm not a pro but i had the same issue like you. It's the best way to
isolate the circuit to a bread board(solder less)

Bkelciov gave me the suggestions. On page two you can see his post.

Anyways use only the PIC the crystal 20MHz, 22pf caps (22 the digit), 1N4148 diode the
Resistor 10k(for MCLR) Power supply for the PIC 2 GND(8,19) VDD 20, The display and the
appropriate Resistor config for V0(contrast) the one you are using is fine. Make sure is there
any bridges in between D7-4, E, R/W,RS & V0 (Display) test continuity and use a magnifier
and see if there any bridges i found a bridge in between D7&6 with the magnifier (problem
solved) because of bad solder joint. This is the right way to fix this issue if this bread board
method works(Cx---,ESR 0.000 the display shows this msg) then bring it to your PCB
otherwise it's hard to fix this issue because we're not using printed circuit that's my opinion.
Please don't blame the poor hex file. it's working great the guy who programmed is a hero.

Good Luck I'm pretty sure you'll fix it.

Haran

Hi bkelciov and others,

I want to build this ESR-Go meter as well and the posts here were very helpful.
Still I am comparing several ESR meters. This one looks the best so far, but I cannot find
how to calibrate it. You say I can find it on the first page of this treat, but I must be blind
What is the set, + and - button doing?

Another question, does anyone have the specifications for the capacity range this meter
has?

Kind regards and thanks in advance!

Rob.

Edit: Very sorry, see now that you explained the calibration on this page
Still wondering what the pushbuttons are for...

Setting. First Time - check for +5 V and after 78L05 -5V (4.7V) Output DA4. By choosing
R31 achieve normal contrast on the display.
A little about the buttons: Enabling device while holding down the Set button turns it into
install mode correction factors. There are only three - Channel 1 Ohm, 10 Ohm and
capacity. Change factors + and - buttons, record in the EEPROM and bust - same button
Set.
There is also a debug mode - this mode to indicator displays the measured values without
treatment - to capacity - the state of the timer (about 15 samples per 1 uF) and both
channels measure ESR (1 step ADC = 5V/1024). transition in debug mode - Pressing the "+"
And one more thing - zero adjustment. This is closable entrance, press and hold button "+"
and through R4 are making the minimum reading (but not zero!) simultaneously on both
channels. Without releasing the "+" button, click Set - the indicator will display a message
on the Conservation of U0 in the EEPROM.
Next, measure the resistance of 1 ohm model (or less), 10 ohms and capacity (you trust),
we determine the correction factors. can turn, turn while holding down the Set button and
set the to-you, respectively, the results of the measurements.

Hello Rob welcome aboard,

Actually its not necessary to calibrate this device. I would say this device is a comparator.
You can compare good known capacitors with bad once so you can have an idea. I strongly
recommend find some good capacitors with different farads range and voltage make your
own chart for reference. Really this device is not accurate and this is all you need for most
of the problematic scenario in a circuit . The person who developed this device is a genius.
This device is an excellent device for hobbyist and repairer. The range is 1 uf to 150,000 uf

Just for your peace of mind you can calibrate this device.

Turn off your device first. BY holding set button and turn it on, now youll go to the
calibration mode.

Therere 3 areas that you can calibrate.

Coefficient for 1
Coefficient for 10
Coefficient for CX, this can be achieved by pressing set button.

+/- Buttons for change the value for tweaking purposes.

Now you have to gather a 1 & 10 resistor in order to calibrate the ESR.

First to begin with 1 resistor connected Across the CX and check the reading should read
closes to 1 if not go to calibration mode change the 1000 value range +/_ until for you
satisfaction, Do the same with 10 . It will show the same results at a certain point.

CX is for capacitances by changing the value you are not going to reach everything
accurate. If youre focusing 1uf capacitor with 10uf, itll read 1uf exact 1uf and 10uf itll read
12.xxx or 8.xxx but just for the sake of calibration just play with it youll see what I meant.

According to this device in my own experience anything over 2.xxx ESR considered bad
caps. Do your own research please.

Have fun

Regards
Haran

Thanks a lot Kripton and Haran. I think it is clear how to calibrate.

Haran, I understand your remark about compairing good and bad capacitors. That is of
course the most important function. But the reading is very accurate, so I do want to make
it as precise as possible (I know it is a tick of me...).

One question about the 4066. I also saw a design of Elektor (Combi-C-Meter in sept. 2005)
and they state that it is better to use a high speed version (HC4066). This to avoid
unwanted reactance (or half it). Any thoughts about that?
Disadvantage of that meter for me is that you have to switch between C and ESR
measurements.
Best regards, Rob.

Haran, I understand your remark about compairing good and bad capacitors. That is of
course the most important function. But the reading is very accurate, so I do want to make
it as precise as possible (I know it is a tick of me...).

One question about the 4066. I also saw a design of Elektor (Combi-C-Meter in sept. 2005)
and they state that it is better to use a high speed version (HC4066). This to avoid
unwanted reactance (or half it). Any thoughts about that?
Disadvantage of that meter for me is that you have to switch between C and ESR
measurements.

Rob,Well I havent tried yet with 74HC4066 chip and I dont think so youll see a Significant
Changes by using 74HC4066 maybe not. Im happy with CD4066. The device is fast quick
display showing ESR & Capacitance.

Actually both chips are same price here in Canada. Two for a dollar if I get a chance Ill try
and let you know the feedback.

As far as I know Go ESR is the best complete open source available and smart people could
tweak the ASM file Also comparing to Peak Atlas ESR Im happy with the outcome and quick
results. My buddy owns a Peak Atlas hes surprised with this unit

Haran

Hi Haran,

Ah, nice to hear about the Peak Atlas and Go ESR comparison. I was also impressed by the
Peak, but understand now that the performance is (nearly) the same. In that case the Go
ESR is more fun becuase I have to build it and its cheaper.
I understood that with a HC4066 the meter is more accurate, not necessarely faster. Indeed
price is not the issue, I was just wondering if you guys thought of it. Don't make too much
fuzz about it, I also can try for myself.
Still I am more then you in favour to build a meter that I can trust on the read-out
(Capacitance and ESR value) instead of compare bad and good cap's.
I have experience in electronics (mostly analogue), but now I also have to learn to deal with
PIC's and loading a file into the device. Already bought a PIC Programmer. Maybe I also will
deep-dive into the software. One project leads to another one
Still glad with your experience and remarks.

Greetings from the Netherlands.

Rob.
hi,
the elektor c-esr meter uses a different method than the go esr meter
elektor needs a fast chopped switch, and a high speed chip can gives better results
go esr uses a constant current method, and the 4066 is here only to switch measure
between current and voltage, dont need speed for it
I dont think a faster 4066 chip will improve the result, but only a real test can tell us the
truth...

also
the peak esr meter has a fine feature : it discharges the capacitor before measuring if
needed
the go esr doesnt have it, but the peak is so far more expensive that I prefer also the go esr
meter !!!!

regards,

Hi Haran,

Electrolytics are having a huge tolerance. So, if you calibrated with a 1uF cap and try later a
10uF cap, I am sure the reading is between 8 and 12uF. But is that because the meter is not
that accurate or is it because the values of the caps you used are not compared with
another meter (so, exact value unknown)?

Regards, Rob.

Hi Kripton,

Yes, you are fully right. My mistake. Indeed it is in case of the Go-ESR no problem to use
the normal 4066. The Elektor version is indeed using another method en also can measure
smaller caps.
So, I am still doubting.

Regards, Rob.

Hi,
I have calibrated my ESR-C the "hardware" way and the readings are the same every time.
Readings below 100uF are smaler than reality. For example:47uF - reading is 45uF, 4,7uF -
reading is 4,3; 2,2uF - reading is 1,9uF; 1uf - reading is 0,7uF; 0,47uF - reading is 0,3uF.
The readings are the same every time for the same value and same manufacturer.
After few dozens of readings I know what a good cap and a bad cap look like. From my
point of view, this device is the most "accurate" device ever. You know why? Because with
this device you can tell which cap is good and which cap is bad without geting out of circuit.
Hi ,
often break the hex file of the PIC and must be rewritten !!! what can be done to avoid this
inconvenience .... has happened to someone ?
Costas

may be you have a broken pic ??? I've never seen that...
and the pic 16f876 is unable to reprogram itself so ...
have you tried another pic ?
regards,

yet this happens, I built several more GO-ESR with diferent series of PIC's 873, 876 SMD,
DIP and each of the series often have rewritten the dump, becouse no longer capacity
measured correctly or at all or show for any capacity ESR = 000 , although 1 and 10 ohm
resistance to measure correctly. The problem apper when I restart the device , only way to
fixit is to rewrite the PIC dump . So something is happens I don't know what !!!

Costas

Hi,
Mine work great.
What component do you have in common in all devices? Did you buy like 100 resistors or
capacitors of same tipe? Maybe you have one defective series of one or more components.
If you do have components in common, than change the manufacturer of those
components.
I hope this works.
Good luck