VOGUE

Why We Must Hold the Fashion

Industry Accountable for its EWhiteness.
AT YOUR
GREENS
Tasty
In the current commercialized society that we recipes
live for spinach,
in, fashion hasbroccoli,
become beans, a

a ubiquitous staple of art, culture, and social trends. Whether it be supermodels

Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner receiving over 1 million likes per Instagram
photo, or the Victorias Secret Fashion Show, watched by 6.65 million viewers
this year, fashion and its models have become increasingly familiar among
everyday people (10). The most successful in this exclusive community,
FAST FOOD
however, all share on thing in common: their race. As fashion has entered its
F A Vdiversity
new frontier, marked by social media and growing popularity, O R I in
T our
ES
Your favorite go-t
industry has plummeted. While models of different origins have been
dishes are given
increasingly represented in recent years, high fashion magazines and runway
healthier tw
shows are still lagging behind in terms of diversification. At this past spring
fashion week, a mere 30.3% of casted runway models were non-white (8). With
social media at the helm of a new era of heightened runway visibility, it is more

FRESH
important than ever to foster equality within the field. We at Vogue and others

STARTS
at the forefront of this industry should provide equal opportunities to models
of all races to not only mirror the diversity of the real
Dietworld,
ideas forbut
theto also in search f
beginner
positively impact societys conception of beauty, while increasing revenues for
brands.
 VOGUE
High end fashion has a historically poor track record in regards to diversity.
Much of the systemic favoring of white models stems from our industrys origin.
The perceived central locations of fashion design are Paris, New York, Milan and
London; thus, the market has been tailored for the western consumer (8). For
decades, we have based brand success in principles of unattainability, and to
marketers showcasing covers and runways featuring minorities does not
contribute to this ideal (1). Moreover, with many labels only releasing one large
campaign annually, designers believe that hiring white models reduces perceived
monetary risks (1). These espoused beliefs at the center of the industry have
greatly contributed to the diversity issue currently unfolding. The first African
American was not featured on American Vogue until Beverly Johnson in 1974.
Later, in 1992 Veronica Webb became the first black model to receive a major
beauty contract (3). These facts display the industrys historical lack of
acceptance of African Americans that has contributed to problems discussed
today. In efforts to create equity within the modern fashion world, it is
important for us analyze where the inequality began and recognize past
injustices.

source:BBC
 VOGUE
When we delve into diversity statistics in our industry, the issue becomes
even more troubling. Casting directors continue to operate on the idea that two
or three spots in a show or a fashion spread should be set aside for models of
varying ethnicities (8). This practice contributes to the inequities seen in almost
every aspect of the business. We should hire models based on their innate talent,
not their race. Fall fashion week of 2013 was composed of 8.08% black models,
8.1% Asian, and 3.19% Latina (7). Similarly, during fall and winter fashion weeks in
2015, a mere 20% of models were non-white (8). It is clear that these numbers are
far from representative of society as a whole. Yet another essential part of the
fashion world is the September Issue of high fashion magazines. Landing the
front cover of this issue is highly regarded in our industry, and unsurprisingly
only 12 of the 41 covers were held by racially diverse models (8). Moreover,
magazine Harpers Bazaar did not feature any multicultural models.
Additionally, Rihanna was the only non-white model on the cover of our own
British Vogue this past year (5). Fashion advertisement campaigns display one of
the largest discrepancies in races of models, with 85% featuring white models
(8). At the root of this issue may be the sheer absence of African American
designers recognized in the industry, accounting for a mere 2.7% of the shows
scheduled for 2015 fall and winter fashion week (8). These statistics provide
substantial evidence to the issue at hand, and serve as a warning to the fashion
world. If brands continue showcase only white models in such visible
campaigns, the conception of beauty among the masses will be forever altered.

Fashion trends have profound impact upon people in all facets of society.
Whether we are consciously aware of it or not, clothing can be a valuable
source of self-expression. Fashions importance lies in its ability to convey
non-verbal aspects to ones personality and self-image (11). Young people
 VOGUE
place even more meaning in style of dress, as they attempt to discover who
they are and where their values lie (11). It has become commonplace that
when a particular style of dress comes in vogue or used by film stars and
models, it is blindly followed by college students (11). While this practice is
typical for those at a young age, the structure of the fashion industry poses
major complications to the nations African American, Asian, and Spanish,
young people. The white dominated runways leave an immense
demographic of young adults without role models (7). In turn, this lack of
diversity fails to embrace the culturally diverse world we live in by
establishing archaically narrow definitions of beauty and impoverished
aesthetic of sameness. These images affect women of all ages by setting the
tone for how women are expected to look (7). This excerpt emphasizes the
widespread power of our industry and the damaging cycle we have created
by excluding multicultural models. Clothing is a powerful medium, and
magazines convey how people should express themselves. Presenting only
Caucasian models not only is harmful to young people of varying races, but
also enforces strict beauty standards that are unreflective of reality.

The social progression that has unfolded over the past decade deems it
necessary that fashion brands, including ourselves here at Vogue, make
diversity a priority. In the past, the world of fashion was walled off from
the public eye and less visible in pop culture (5). Now, in the dawn of social
media, those selected for advertisement campaigns or large fashion shows
redefine societys beauty standards and determine who society values (2).
Therefore, it is imperative that the we feature models of varying
ethnicities in order to emulate society as a whole. However, brands should
not see diversity as a hindrance in their business endeavors.
 VOGUE
Featuring models of varying races has been proven to be an asset for
advertisement campaigns and product sales. In a study of 3,000 women in
Canada and the United States, black women were shown to be 1.5 times more
likely to purchase a product advertised by a black model (1). Even more
compelling, Caucasian women identified with the advertising that featured
black models because they believed the brand upheld values they aspired to,
such as empowerment and inclusion(1). Therefore, sales remained consistent
amongst white women regardless of a models race. This evidence further
proves why companies should embrace diversity. Not only is inclusion of
multicultural models morally beneficial, but also it generates higher profit for
brands like ours. With African American women spending an average of $20
billion on apparel annually (4), we are alienating a large percentage of the
population due to unsubstantiated claims that are no longer relevant.

source: nytimes

The personal anecdotes that demonstrate racism in our industry are

abundant. Model Anais Mali, who recently was featured in David Yurmans fall
campaign had shared her jarring experiences in the fashion world. Paris, a
mecca of style and trends, has become one of the least inclusive environments
for models to work in (12).Mali was often told this is Paris-black girls dont
 VOGUE
work here(12). In the 21st century, it is extremely troubling that such blatant
discrimination exists. She continues, explaining how in Milan, you dont
really see black girls on the runway you hear things like 'we already have
Jourdan Dunn, one black girl is enough' (12). Once again, we see the cruel
nature of our industry, specifically in the high fashion niche. Despite Mali later
stating that the industry is slowly improving in terms of inclusion, brands
should be held accountable for their bigotry (12). Modern society should not
base hiring decisions on race. Incidents similar to that of Anais Malis are not
isolated, thus we should strive to eliminate the outright discrimination seen in
all facets of the industry.

We at Vogue have had our own share of struggles when it comes to

incorporating diversity within our magazine. Just last month we released our
first Diversity Issue, however, many were quick to denounce our attempt to
present ethnically diverse models. While our goal was to celebrate the
modern American woman in a world of immigration bans and building
walls, critics were quick to note that all of the models we casted had fairly
light skin tones (6). Photographed on the front cover were models Gigi Hadid
and Kendall Jenner alongside famous plus size model Ashley Graham. Our
dissenters all shared a common ideal, one writing to us: you had such a great
chance here and Ive never been more disappointed. I hope that in the future
youll finally start taking a chance on women that represent real bodies and
real standards (6). We want the public to know that we hope to strengthen
our pushtowards inclusion in the nearfuture by usingour magazine as a
platformtoshowcaseall models. Although we believed that our issue
captured diversity in both body type and race, we acknowledge that greater
inclusion of multicultural models would have bolstered theissue'scredibility.
 VOGUE
However, we believe that our Diversity Issue served as an important step in the
right direction for us as an organization. Other brands should follow suit using
their mediums to draw attention to the issue of discrimination in our field.

source: Huffingtonpost

Our "Diversity Issue" sparked further contention due to supermodel

Karlie Kloss' appearance in a Geisha themed photo shoot. Although the
photographs sought to mirror a 1966 editorial by Richard Avedon, the
Japanese-themed photo shoot was not well received by the masses (9). Many
questioned why our magazine would feature a Caucasian model dressed in
traditional Japanese clothes rather than giving the job to an Asian model.
Our efforts may have been artistic in nature, but we once again understand
that this opportunity would have been best suited for a model familiar with
the culture. Although Kloss later apologized for participating in a shoot that
was not culturally sensitive", we at Vogue recognize that it is time to put
incidents of this nature to an end (9). It is imperative that we and our
counterparts listen to the public outcry and create an industry that provides
equal opportunities for those of all backgrounds.
 VOGUE

source: Dramafever

Fashions reach will only continue to grow as social media enables global
connectivity. The growing visibility of this popular industry deems it
necessary to broaden the racial backgrounds of models being plastered on
billboards, featured on magazine covers, and strutting the runway. Brands
must grant equal opportunities to models of all races, as they redefine cultural
beauty standards. Despite the fashion industrys belief that white models sell
clothes and continue the established traditions, diverse models help broaden
the consumer base and promote inclusion in society. As a millennial and a
writer at Vogue, I have witnessed the power of our industry first hand and I
am shocked that issues of this nature still exist.We no longer can justify
bigotry through business necessity. It is time for our industry take a stand for
equality, especially during time when immigrants and minorities are being
suppressed. Vogue vows to spearhead the movement towards diversity within
our industry, not only for the mental health of the worlds youth and adults,
but also because societys values should be distinguishable both on and off the
runway.
 Works Cited
(1) Barry, Ben. "Op-Ed | Diversity In Fashion Advertising Does Sell."The
Business of Fashion. N.p., 14 Oct. 2015. Web. 02 Apr. 2017.
(2) Brooke, Eliza. "Why Diversity on the Runway Matters."Fashionista. N.p.,
07 Apr. 2014. Web. 02 Apr. 2017.
(3) Cichowski, Heather. "11 Barrier-Breaking Moments By Black People In
The Fashion Industry, In Celebration Of Black History Month."A Plus. N.p.,
07 Feb. 2017. Web. 02 Apr. 2017.
(4) Feitelberg, Rosemary. "Little Diversity in Fashion: African-Americans
Bemoan Their Absence in Industry. (Cover Story)."WWD: Women's Wear
Daily, vol. 194, no. 59, 17 Sept. 2007, pp. 1-12.
(5) Hyland, Vronique. "How Did Magazine Covers Stack Up in Terms of
Diversity in 2016?"Nymag.com. N.p., 14 Dec. 2016. Web. 2 Apr. 2017.
(6) Larkin, Alexandra. "Vogue's 'diverse' Cover Slammed as Not
Diverse."CNN. Cable News Network, 10 Feb. 2017. Web. 02 Apr. 2017.
(7) Padula, Vanessa. "Whitewashed Runways: Employment Discrimination in
the Fashion Modeling Industry."Scholarship.law.berkley.edu. N.p., 2016.
Web. 2 Apr. 2017.
(8) Pike, Helena. "Between the Catwalk and the Consumer: Fashion's Growing
Diversity Gap."The Business of Fashion. N.p., 11 Oct. 2015. Web. 02 Apr.
2017.
(9) Quinn, Dave. "Karlie Kloss Apologizes for Geisha Photo Shoot in Vogue
Diversity Issue."PEOPLE.com. Time Inc, 15 Feb. 2017. Web. 02 Apr. 2017.
(10) Schwindt, Oriana. "TV Ratings: Victorias Secret Fashion Show Dips
Again, NBC Wins Slow Night." Variety. N.p., 06 Dec. 2016. Web. 02 Apr.
2017.
(11) Venkatasamy, Nithyaprakash. "Fashion Trends and Their Impacts on
Society."Researchgate.net. N.p., Sept. 2015. Web.
(12) Wilson, Julee. "Another Black Model, Anais Mali, Shares Her Tale Of
Blatant Racism In Fashion Industry."The Huffington Post.
TheHuffingtonPost.com, 03 Feb. 2014. Web. 02 Apr. 2017.