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enlightenment
PATH TO
SALAMANDER SPA
(DESTIN, FL)
www.americanspa.com
Body
RE NEW
TM
Bathing
Pleasures
Pevonia Planet Bloom is part of our commitment to environmental
conservation. BodyRenewTM products include a wildflower seed infused tag
that once planted, helps beautify our surroundings for a greener earth.
Natural. Sensory. Results.
With over 37 Billion Dollars spent on bath & body products annually and
more than 50% of female consumers seeking all natural skincare, Pevonia
makes it easier than ever to boost your retail and service revenue!
Introducing BodyRenew Bathing Pleasures. An aroma-therapeutic body
collection of retail and professional products infused with all natural ingredients
to: enrich the skin with restorative and de-aging benefits; transform bath time
into a spa sensory oasis; de-stress and awaken the senses. BodyRenew collections
offer: bath salt, bubble bath, and body moisturizer in three blissful natural
scents to address specific skin concerns.
Softens skin
immediately
Oxygenating
powder-to-foam action
Lotus Detoxifying
Overnight Treatment
Lightweight and great for all skin types, this
gel cream treatment detoxifies and renews
skin with the help of melt-in jojoba oil beads
Fizzo-what? and nutrient-rich microgreens. Layer it after a
This powder-to-foam exfoliant uses potent microgreens, rice flour favorite serum, and follow with a moisturizer
and adzuki powder to give skin a gorgeous, youthful glow. The if desired. Worn overnight, this treatment
refreshing fizzing action delivers oxygen to the skin, stimulating supercharges repair and regeneration while
its natural healing functions while stone crop brightens and helping to prevent water loss for a dewy,
rice flour with adzuki powder gently buffs and smoothes the radiant complexion. Use in the daytime for
surface. Skin is perfectly cleansed and gently exfoliated leaving it added detoxification and protection against
invigorated and softened. environmental stressors.
Detox | Renew | Infuse
Fortify Skin with Detoxifying Microgreens Complex
Your Anti-Pollution
Solution
If you are interested in partnering with minence, an award-winning natural, organic and
Biodynamic skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.
Join our beauty network gigispa.com | #gigispa
Welcome to THE MINDFUL TOUCH:
Your Mindfulness Spa Experience.
40 TIME TO HEAL
Give clients added skincare benefits
with todays cosmetics, which do more
than just add color and definition.
48 DANGER ZONE
28
Learn how spas can prepare to help
clients deal with skin cancer.
54 TRENDING IN 2017
70
Get the lowdown on the biggest
skincare trends of the year.
biz
60 PATH TO PROSPERITY
52 departments
Find out how a facial-focused spa is
redefining the client experience. 23 RADAR
medical spa 95 FRESH FINDS
64 MANY HAPPY RETURNS? 101 NEWS
Before hiring a former employee, 68 IN THE KNOW
examine the pros and cons. Read about the latest studies, guidelines,
and products in the medical spa industry. in every issue
62
74 AN ESTHETICIANS DOS 16 FROM THE
AND DONTS EDITORS
Find out what medical spa treatments they 20 GET WIRED
can perform and those they should not. 112 FINAL THOUGHT
10 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
Our holistic approach.
YOUR SPAS
SUCCESS.
At Naturopathica, our mission is to inspire healthy lifestyles, but we
dont stop there. Our founder and CEO, Barbara Close, is dedicated
to creating the most effective products, spa treatments and wellness
education to help individuals feel and look their best.
InnovationIntelligent Formulas
More than trendy ingredients and buzzwords, our products are
designed to give your skin and body what they really needpotent
actives and soothing botanicals proven to enhance skin health and
produce visible results. Our choreographed protocols empower your
team with one-of-a-kind holistic healing techniques to help you
exceed the expectations of todays savvy spa-goer.
Our passionate team
of experts combine
best-of-industry
knowledge with a deep
dedication to the spa
business, leveraging
multifaceted experience
in education, marketing,
management and business
development to support
your success.
Barry Mc c affrey
SVP of Sales
OUR TEAM
Barry McCaffrey, Chelsea Novosel, Diane Niethe,
SVP of Sales Regional Manager, Regional Account Executive,
Southwest Mid-Atlantic Territory
Yushing Foo,
VP of Education Andrea Bryant, Alison Gavurnik,
Regional Account Executive, Regional Account Executive,
Michele Roche, Northwest Territory North& South Central Territories
Senior Educator
Shannon Gallogly, Maria Sarantopoulos-Harp,
Beth Byra, Regional Account Executive, Regional Account Executive,
Regional Manager, Southeast New York Metro Area
Northeast
Office
757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017; tel: (212) 895-8200, fax: (212) 895-8219
Production
PRODUCTION SPECIALIST Troy Graham, tel: (212) 895-8281
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Ross
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Jon Shaw
CORPORATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE MANAGEMENT Auseh Britt
abritt@questex.com, tel: (202) 496-5530
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
Carol Hatcher, chatcher@questex.com, tel: (216) 586-5620
Sales
DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MEDIA, DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MEDIA,
EASTERN REGION WESTERN REGION
Lucy Hugo, tel: (203) 493-1221, Kristina Panter, tel: (714) 485-5331,
lhugo@questex.com kpanter@questex.com
fax: (203) 549-3664, fax: (714) 242-6800,
757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, 757 Third Ave., 5th Floor,
New York, NY 10017 New York, NY 10017
Marketing
MARKETING DIRECTOR Tina Kassimis, tel: (212) 895-8248, tkassimis@questex.com
MARKETING MANAGER Cathy Marchese, tel: (212) 895-8233, cmarchese@questex.com
MARKETING COORDINATOR Amanda Butcher, tel: (212) 895-8276, abutcher@questex.com
Reprints/Licensing Lists
Wrights Media, Anthony Carraturo, MeritDirect, LLC,
tel: (877) 652-5295 tel: (914) 368-1083, ac@meritdirect.com
SKIN SAVIORS
AS A MEMBER OF THE SKINCARE INDUSTRY, SKIN CANCER AND
its prevention has always been an important consideration for me.
But this year, in particular, it really hit home. During her annual visit
to the dermatologist, my mom discovered she had a basal cell carcinoma
on her face and was scheduled for Mohs surgery. The cancer was deeper
than her doctor originally thought, and the removal process was much
more in-depth, requiring a pretty intense plastic surgery procedure
to close the wound. Thankfully, my mom is now cancer-free, and her
recovery has been rather incredible. Along with a pretty spectacular
plastic surgeon, I credit her impressive results to some wonderful
innovations in the skincare world, including lasers and injectables as
well as an assortment of incredible healing products. I was able to
tap into my beauty closet to provide her with healing serums, lotions,
full-coverage makeup, light therapy tools, sun-protecting hats, and,
most importantly, full-coverage sunscreen. Ive never been so grateful
for all of my spa connections and more proud to be part of an
industry devoted to helping people look and feel better.
This experience also magnified the gratitude I have for the fun FACTS
estheticians, therapists, and medical spa pros who are the first
According to research, the presence of
line of defense for clientsthey are often the ones who notice skin
FLOWERS often triggers happy emotions,
abnormalities and send clients to the dermatologist, they are the ones
increases feelings of satisfaction, and
who help those recovering from skin cancer look and feel better, and positively affects social behavior. Talk
they are the educators who pass along the importance of sun protection. about flower power! PAGE 32
This month, we tackle this issue of skin cancer and the spa in Danger
Zone, on page 48. We hope to provide you with ideas on what you
need to do to help clients deal with this serious skin concern. Thank you
to all of you for all that you do to help save lives. Keep up the good work!
Best Wishes,
Julie Keller Callaghan Its not just the late Nora Ephron.
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Apparently, a lot of people feel bad about
jkeller@questex.com their necks. Per a report from the American
Society of Plastic Surgeons, more than
55,000 neck lifts were performed in 2016.
PAGE 76
16 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
REVEAL VISIBLY RADIANT &
YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN
VITAL C 10%
+ PEPTIDES
SERUM
PROTECT YOUR
SKIN FROM
ENVIRONMENTAL
STRESSORS
TRAVELOG
Discover the spas and destinations weve visited
to bring you the latest happenings here and abroad.
18 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
NEW NUDE
COLLECTION
Sunbaked Sedona
Toasted Apricot
Spicy Mauve
Uptown Taupe
Cashemere Buff
Dusty Taro
#AMERICANSPA
Register at www.americanspa.com/
webinars for an informative webinar this
month featuring Pevonias corporate
APP-SOLUTELY
fabulo
us
Visit the iTunes store, search Follow us @americanspamag or find
for American Spa, and us by searching for American Spa.
download the app for free.
20 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
A true botanical powerhouse in your hands
DECLOR, pioneers of aromatherapy skincare, brings you naturally powerful
essential oils & its expertise on skincare, in spa and at home.
www.decleorusa.com 855.882.0945
RADAR
a look at the latest spa trends, treatments, offerings, and retail items
horsing around
As more spas seek to offer transformational experiences, BodyHoliday (St. Lucia) is following suit with the introduction
of its Equine Wellness Journey, which offers two distinct programs. With Equine Reflection ($125, 2 hours), participants
learn how they subconsciously communicate their thoughts and emotions through interaction with a horse. With Equine
Expression ($110, 2 hours), theyre encouraged to express themselves by painting their story on a horse, which serves as a
canvas. Sandie Bryant, an expert in natural horsemanship, guides guests through the equine experiences, helping them
to tap into the benefits of mindfulness and how they connect with others. HEATHER MIKESELL
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 23
RADAR
conservation care
Located near the worlds third
largest barrier reef, Palm
Beach Marriott Singer Island
Beach Resort & Spa is devoted
to protecting the areas turtle
population with a host of eco-
minded initiatives. Plush turtles
are placed in each suite and are
available for purchase, with a
percentage of each sale going
to the Loggerhead Marine Life
Center. SiSpa also comes to the
aid of the turtles with its For the
bubble of bliss
Love of the Si Turtles program,
which donates 10 percent of
sales from a 50-minute Signature
Massage or Signature Facial.
For guests interested in a private
Wanting to create an innovative treatment that helps achieve overall wellbeing,
Natura Biss recently launched The Mindful Touch: Your Mindfulness Spa
Experience (starting at $200, 60 minutes), a cutting-edge ritual performed in
the brands exclusive Bubble Pure Air, which serves as the ideal atmosphere
with 99.95 percent pure air to enhance a facial. In addition, the treatment is
accompanied by an immersive virtual-reality video that stimulates mindfulness
and creates a positive outlook. With audio that encourages spa-goers to focus
on their breathing, the ritual helps them to tap into the physical nuances of the
treatment, release tension, and reconnect with themselves. The revolutionary
treatment will be available at The Spa at Bacara (Goleta, CA), The Spa at
Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village (CA), The Spa at Rancho Valencia
(Rancho Santa Fe, CA), and Trellis Spa at The Houstonian (Houston). Our
mission as a brand is to create not just the most effective treatments but also
unique wellness experiences far beyond skincare, says Patricia Fisas, board
A plush sea
member and director of innovation and product development for Natura Biss. turtle (top)
Thats how The Mindful Touch was created, conceived as a true luxury placed in each
suite can be
beauty moment of connection between body and mind.H.M. purchased in
the boutique.
24 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
SKINCARE SCIENCE
WITH A SOUL
Embrace a new way to take care of your clients beauty inside and out. Through our integrated
approach to skincare based on advanced products, expert treatments and a sustainable lifestyle,
you can visibly improve your clients skin, bodies and minds. With our ongoing multidisciplinary
training, you can further develop your expertise and enjoy a healthy, profitable growth.
Commit to excellence. Become our partner.
Call 212-924-2454
FREE FROM
SILICONES, PARABENS,
MINERAL OILS, ARTIFICIAL COLORS,
ANIMAL DERIVATIVES. WWW.COMFORTZONE.IT
RADAR
WHATS
IN YOUR beauty bag?
Emily McConnell, Priyana MD VersaLash Serum
spa director at (www.priyanamd.com) I get lash
The Spa at Dana extensions and need to keep my natural
(Chicago) shares lashes strong. This enhancer serum is
some of her personal full of peptides to help condition lashes
beauty faves. and keep them growing long.
ILLUSTRATION/PHOTOGRAPHY: KLINT CALLAGHAN (COSMETIC BAG); GETTY IMAGES (APPLY THIS, NOT THAT)
Industry experts come clean on the ingredients
apply this, NOT THAT found in professional products.
MAY'S PRO: Amal Elbahnasawy, founder, ARTISANskin
ALGINATE
Ingredients that change texture, such as alginate, will be sweeping the beauty
industry in 2017. Alginate is a natural ingredient derived from seaweed, which means
it is packed full of minerals and vitamins that stimulate collagen synthesis, rid pores of toxins,
help skin retain water, and leave a brighter, hydrated facial tone. This natural powder turns into
a gel when mixed with water and then creates a texture similar to rubber as it dries on the skin,
delivering an effective facial mask as well as an experience for the senses.
STAR PRODUCTS: ARTISANskin is releasing a line of natural and vegan color-coded
rubber-like masks containing this key ingredient this spring. www.artisanskinrevolution.com
26 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
The Standard in Professional
Waxing for over 40 years!
For the month of May, Amber is offering an exclusive 15% discount on all
waxing products to our American Spa readers.
Use promo code AMSPA17 at checkout to save.
store.amberproducts.com 800.821.9188
RADAR On a visit to Six
Senses Douro
Valley, Mehmet
Oz, M.D., took part
in the Integrated
Wellness program.
the alchemist
For DIY spa-goers, Six Senses
Douro Valley (Lamego) offers an
interactive Alchemy Workshop
(complimentary for a group or
$56 for individual instruction,
60 minutes), giving them the
opportunity to blend their
own ingredients and create
individualized fragrances for a
getting personal
variety of beauty and household
products. The wellness workshop
takes place in the spas Alchemy
Bar, which features a host of
enticing ingredients. Guided by
an expert, guests learn about Working with a number of highly respected doctors and wellness
the properties of herbs, fruits, professionals, Six Senses Douro Valley (Lamego, Portugal) created an
and spices and how to select innovative approach to wellbeing with its Six Senses Integrated Wellness
the right ingredients for their program, which involves the spas in-house experts measuring and analyzing
blends, which are then used to key physiological biomarkers to help provide spa-goers with a personalized
make body scrubs, face and hair program. Mehmet Oz, M.D., one of the doctors involved in developing the
masks, lip balms, and even home revolutionary program, visited the spa and sampled the program firsthand.
fragrances and laundry products. Here, he shares his thoughts on the experience.
Offered each week, the workshop
is limited to six participants. Q. What makes the Integrated Wellness Program so special?
Guests who want more may A. Its a superb comprehensive program to assess the baseline health of
also choose the Six Senses Spa spa-goers. The screening system combines several different noninvasive
Journey ($282, 3 hours), which is tests of the body, ranging from subtle aspects of the heartbeat to the oxygen
customized during a consultation level in the blood to the electrical conductance of the skin to offer clues on
with their spa therapist and where to focus your efforts towards optimal health. Practitioners can help
based on the Alchemy Bar menu spa-goers understand how stress or inflammation or insomnia is affecting the
recipes. Its a new spin on the body and offer customized approaches to accelerate healing. It finishes with
sacred art of alchemy. H.M. Fusionetics, the best system to understand physical fitness and flexibility
so we can avoid injuries. By customizing the program, spa-goers can take
The Alchemy Bar features advantage of the many therapeutic options available, such as massage,
an antique table with
an array of labeled glass nutrition, sleep, and physical training.
bottles and jars.
SAVE
20% NOW!
$9.04 $54.36
Expires 5/31/17
32 IN THE MIX
Flower Power
40 EYE ON
Healing Cosmetics
48 SKIN DEEP
Skin Cancer
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 31
ON TOPIC | IN THE MIX
FLORAL SUPPORT
Discover why everything is coming up roses for spas that offer
flower-based products and treatments. BY NICOLE ALTAVILLA
FOR MANY, THE SIGHT OF BLOOMING FLOWERS IS AN INSTANT MOOD BOOSTER. ITS
often the first hint of spring, which means warm weather and brighter (and longer) days are
ahead. According to research conducted at Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey, the
presence of flowers often triggers happy emotions, increases feelings of life satisfaction, and
positively affects social behavior. Whats more, flowers also provide the skin with a host of
benefits. In fact, flowers have long been used as a way to help calm and soothe skin and treat
various skincare issues. Fragrant floral extracts have been used in ancient civilizations and
by many traditional cultures as a way to heal common beauty ailments, says Jaklin Idris,
assistant vice president of education for Declor Paris. Their restorative powers, complex
scientific makeup, and sensorial maturity remain superior to other ingredients. What we
see today as a trend in spas is a rediscovery of old wisdom and romance.
The use of lavender, for example, dates back thousands of years to when fresh lavender
was added to baths to provide an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect on the mind and
body. Today, lavender, as well as many other flowers, are added to skincare treatments and
products for these same benefits. The use of gentle, natural solutions that are sustainable
and non-toxic to both user and environment have been gaining ground consistently over
recent years, says Nick James, founder of Body Bliss. The use of floral extracts, like
other aromatherapy modalities, has the added benefit of supporting positive
mental and emotional states at the same time as acting to repair, revitalize,
or protect the skin. Flowers tend to produce many of the most gentle
essential oils, making them ideal for facial therapies, and their
scents tend to have effects that range from sedative and deeply
calming, to uplifting and confidence-boosting. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
32 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
BEST
LASH
STRENGTHENER
flower power
According to Katie Hess, flower alchemist, founder of Lotus Wei, and author of
Flowerevolution: Blooming Into Your Full Potential with the Magic of Flowers (Hay House, Ylang ylang
can help
2016), each flower has its own unique healing quality. Some bring us joy, others invoke balance oily
love, peace, or even help us sleep more deeply, she says. Including flower therapy in spa complexions.
treatments brings in an extra element of emotional healing. While the beautiful colors
and scents associated with flowers can help induce positive feelings, many flowers are
also rich in nutrients that have proven to be beneficial to the skin. Heres a look at some
of the most common flowers and flower extracts used in skincare today.
Blue chamomile provides a Jasmine also has a positive effect on benefits. It also helps to stimulate
calming effect, especially on skin that a persons mood. microcirculation, improve dryness,
has sunburn, rashes, rosacea, and post- Regenerative and mildly antiseptic, reduce redness, and revitalize aging skin.
surgical scarring. lavender is useful in treating acne and Wild pansy is often used in skincare
Because of its antiseptic, dull, congested skin, leaving it clearer because of its anti-inflammatory and
antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory and brighter. It provides a soothing and skin-soothing benefits.
effects, calendula oil is great for use on calming effect and can help clients Because of its astringent and
dry and rough skin and skin with eczema become more emotionally balanced, antiseptic properties, yarrow is ideal
and psoriasis. It promotes blood flow calm, and relaxed. for treating acneic and blemished skin.
to the skin cells, provides antioxidant Ideal for treating cuts and It also offers many benefits for rosacea,
protection that reduces the appearance wounds, neroli offers rejuvenating and because of its ability to make broken
of wrinkles and ages spots; reduces pain, regenerating benefits for all skin types, capillaries look smaller and stop bleeding
swelling, and irritation; and helps heal especially oily and acneic skin. in wounds.
cuts, scrapes, scars, and minor wounds. A serene solution for delicate, dry, Ylang ylang is nourishing and
Chamomile diminishes puffiness and sensitive skin, rose offers cooling, moisturizing to the skin and helps to
and inflammation. anti-inflammatory, and mildly astringent balance oily complexions.
Cornflower helps reduce puffiness
around the eyes and on the skin.
relevant RESEARCH
Echinacea reduces inflammation
and improves skin conditions like eczema
and psoriasis.
Green and white tea flowers help
Scientists from Guangzhou, China, examined the
reduce the signs of sun damage and
potential anti-inflammatory effects that cherry
environmental stress. blossoms have on the skin, and their research
Jasmine oil helps maintain the suggests that cherry blossom extract could be an
skins suppleness and helps prevent effective ingredient in skincare formulas because
the appearance of stretch marks. It is it reduces nitric oxide production, which in turn, Cherry blossoms
reduces redness and inflammation. reduce redness.
especially good for mature skin types,
as it helps the skin maintain moisture.
Researchers from Canada found that dandelion leaf and flower extracts
significantly protect from UVB irradiation.
Chamomile is ideal for
treating inflammation.
Studies reveal that topical applications of chamomile can be effective in
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
Researchers found that jasmine essential oil can help with wound healing
by accelerating collagen formation and improving the antioxidant status
in the wound tissue.
34 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
ON TOPIC | IN THE MIX
Rose revitalizes
aging skin.
in bloom
Flowers are also an ideal way to provide personalization in your
spa. Spas and resorts have a unique opportunity to provide
specialty treatments customized with the use of locally grown
plants and flowers that are indigenous to their specific region or intoxicating scents of jasmine, rose, and other flowers while
even grown locally in their own garden, says Ashley Stowers of they are pampered. Also, some of the spas treatments feature
YG Laboratories and CelleCl Skincare. Here are some spas that herbs and flowers handpicked before the treatment, such as the
are ensuring guests reap all of the benefits flowers have to offer. Borgos Natures Bounty ($287, 2 hours), which features a basil,
rosemary, and sea salt body scrub; a massage; and a facial that
Spa Matilda at Hotel Matilda (San Miguel de Allende, Mexico) includes a honey and lavender mask.
offers the Floral Compresses Treatment ($97, 90 minutes), which
includes the application of warm compresses filled with locally Aspira The Spa at The Osthoff Resort (Elkhart Lake, WI)
grown dried flowers, such as lavender, orange blossom, and rose. offers the Wild Chamomile and Lavender Body Masque
($130, 50 minutes), which includes an application of the spas
At Spa Heaven at Borgo Santo Pietro (Tuscany, Italy), fresh signature body mask using wild chamomile and lavender, grown
flowers are picked daily from the spa gardens and placed and harvested from the resorts own Osthoff Gardens.
throughout the spa. Whats more, the spa boasts an alfresco
canopied therapy suite next to the garden for guests to enjoy the For more floral services, check out www.americanspa.com.
for their fragrant aroma and potent spa-goers can pick fresh flowers and
Flowers can be used throughout a soothing and antioxidant botanical infuse them into water by leaving them
clients entire spa experience. Fresh extracts they release when submerged out in the sunlight. This floral water
flowers at the reception desk and and infused into warm water. Flower can be added to baths for mood-
throughout the spa help improve the oils and extracts can also be massaged enhancing benefits.Katie Hess,
ambience of any space, taking your into the skin to either boost the effects founder, Lotus Wei
36 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
HEALTHY
SKIN HAS
COME
OF AGE.
The skincare industry has been essentially
unchanged for generations, addressing
skincare as a cosmetic issue and not as
an essential health issue. Now, backed
by clinical trial evidence, weve created
a first-of-its-kind topical probiotic product
that makes the skin renewal process
more efficient creating healthier, and
ultimately, more beautiful skin. And its
about to change everything.
flower
2
SHOP
1
3
3. 3D StrataSculpt
CELLECL SKINCARE
www.cellecleskincare.com
7. Floraskin Youth
Plumping Cream
FLEURS
www.fleursusa.com
8. Lumistone Hydration
8
Face Moisturizer 10
SCHIQUE
www.schique.com
9. Geranium Aromatherapy
Essential Oil
BON VITAL
www.bonvital.com
38 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
21
ON TOPIC | EYE ON
TIME TO HEAL
Learn how many of todays
cosmetics are helping clients
achieve more than just a
pretty face. BY NICOLE ALTAVILLA
in the BAG
THE USE OF MAKEUP DATES BACK THOUSANDS
of years ago to when the ancient Egyptians applied
minerals to their faces to add color and definition.
While makeup formulas have come a long way since While most cosmetics today are formulated to be non-
then, until recently, the purpose of makeup has pretty comedogenic and are unlikely to damage the skin, many
much stayed the sameto add color and definition companies are formulating products that actually help
to the face, hide facial imperfections, and enhance its treat and heal skin concerns. Clients want multi-benefit
overall appearance. According to a survey conducted products for their skin, says Sara LaBree,
educational manager at Jurlique. They arent
by Harris Interactive on behalf of The Renfrew
looking for traditional cosmetics that use
Center Foundation, 16 percent of those surveyed said preservatives like parabens, chemical
they felt self-conscious without makeup, and almost dyes, and fragrances. They want to use
half (44 percent) of women wear makeup to hide clean products that not only enhance their
skin flaws. Also, 48 percent like the way they look natural appearance but also care for the
overall health of their skin. Some of the skin-
with makeup on, and 32 percent say it makes
healing cosmetics on the market today include:
them feel good. Despite the au naturale trend FOUNDATION: Foundation evens skin color
that seems to pop up every few years (and even and covers flaws, and many formulas now also
that look sometimes requires some makeup), hydrate, brighten, and fill in wrinkles and pores.
theres no denying that cosmetics play an CONCEALER: As its name implies, concealers
important part in the lives of women everywhere. help hide imperfections and under-eye
puffiness, redness associated with rosacea and
However, todays consumers are more interested
hyperpigmentation, and blemishes. Some formulas
than ever about what ingredients are in their now also plump, smooth, hydrate skin, and treat
skincare and cosmetics. They want products that not signs of aging.
only make them look good but are good for them, as EYE SHADOW: In addition to
wellin other words, healing cosmetics. providing color to the eyes, some now
contain plant botanicals, natural
As lifestyles become busier, women are seeking
minerals, healing vitamins, and
ways to save time with multitasking beauty products. age-reversing peptides to help
Many of todays cosmetic formulas provide more nourish, protect, and improve skin.
than just a superficial fix to skincare concerns. They BLUSH: Adding a hint of color
provide treatment and healing to a number of to the cheeks helps brighten the
common skincare issues, such as the signs of face, but blushes that also provide
soothing ingredients, offer sun
aging, acne, rosacea, and dry skin. Clients
protection, and treat acne are an even
are looking for products that multitask better option.
to fit their busy lifestyles, says Pauline LIPSTICK: Lipstick is certainly not a new cosmetic offering,
Youngblood-Toth, founder and CEO of but many of todays formulas do more than add color to
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics. Clients the lips. They often include sun protection, reduce the
appearance of fine lines, and hydrate and smooth the lips.
dont want to add more steps to their
MASCARA: Many modern mascaras contain ingredients
daily beauty regimen, so they search for that help nourish and protect lashes, shield them from
makeup that not only makes them look irritants that can cause breakage, and help stimulate the
good but also helps their skin feel growth process.
good all at the same time.
40 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
ON TOPIC | EYE ON
JOJOBA: Jojoba helps calm and soothe
the skin. It also moisturizes, controls oil,
and helps to relieve itchiness and dryness,
making it great for treating eczema,
Acne, signs of aging, and sun damage the skin. MORINGA SEED OIL: This oil
are among the most common skincare moisturizes skin, fights acne, and can
concerns for spa-goers. According be used to treat under-eye puffiness.
to Youngblood Mineral Cosmeticss COENZYME Q10: Coenzyme Q10 soothes
Pauline Youngblood-Toth, the key to the skin and allows the skin to retain
finding the right good looking and moisture while also creating a smooth
good-for-you products is to review the and dewy appearance. It helps to reduce
ingredients used. Ingredients known the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
for their skincare benefits are critical
to look for in products, she says. So GREEN TEA: Soothing and calming,
look for antioxidants that help fight green tea also helps improve the Moringa
seeds help
free radical damage or botanicals that appearance of sun-damaged skin and
hydrate
have a soothing effect. Here are some can help prevent acne. dry skin.
ingredients that can take your cosmetics
to the next level: HYALURONIC ACID: Hyaluronic acid VITAMIN C: Vitamin C helps prevent
helps hydrate skin and reduce the signs of aging and brightens skin. It helps
ALOE: Known for its soothing benefits, appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. fight free radicals, smooth skin, even
aloe can also help calm the skin, reduce Its also gentle enough to use on skintone, improve hydration, and helps
skin inflammation, treat wounds, and sensitive, redness-prone skin. protect skin from the sun.
help the skin heal. It also moisturizes
the skin, improves skins firmness, and VITAMIN E: Vitamin E helps fight free
reduces itchiness and dryness. radicals, prevents signs of aging, and
moisturizes and strengthens the skin.
AVOCADO OIL: Ideal for dry, dehydrated
skin, avocado oil helps moisturize skin, WHITE TEA EXTRACT: White tea
White tea
fights free radicals, increases elasticity, extract helps to relieve puffy eyes and
relieves
and helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles. puffy eyes. reduce dark circles.
When it comes to multitasking cosmetics, consumers products, including foundation, concealers, and even
want products that help them look good and protect them lipsticks, contain SPF. However, Alejandro Falcon, artistic
from the suns harmful rays. While dermatologists and director and national educator for Osmosis Pr Medical
skincare professionals usually recommend applying an Skincare, recommends products that contain a physical (not
actual sunscreen to the skin, wearing makeup that contains chemical) sunscreen like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to
additional SPF is a good way to further protect the skin from help calm and soothe skin while providing sun protection.
42 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
EXPERIENCE RADIANCE
natural
BEAUTY
In an effort to embrace their flaws
and reveal a more vulnerable
side to themselves, many celebs
have taken to posting no-makeup
selfies and are inspiring others to
do the same. The idea behind the
popular hashtags #nomakeup,
#nomakeupday, #nomakeupmonday,
and #nomakeupselfie is to celebrate
their authentic selves. Although often
referred to as an act of bravery,
these makeup-free selfies reveal
women being real. It also provides
the perfect opportunity to give their
skin a breather before introducing
cosmetics with healing benefits. With
or without makeup, its great to see
women embracing their natural and
unique beauty.HEATHER MIKESELL
a perfect match
Many of todays savvy spa-goers visit spas to experience both healing and incorporate the benefits of makeup
relaxation. They expect to receive results-oriented treatments that make them to ensure that clients have healthier skin
look and feel better. However, many effective spa treatments leave skin sensitive and to keep their skin young, balanced,
and with some redness immediately following the service. Thats why skin- and beautiful.Nicole Tracy-Arraaga,
healing cosmetics are a good fit for spas, and industry experts agree. Heres what co-founder, La Bella Donna
some of them have to say:
Spas are doing the heavy lifting of
Offering a cosmetic line that is a safe Skin-healing cosmetics are a great intimately caring for the skin. Whether
and healthy alternative and provides addition to spa services. Clients its a simple facial or a laser treatment
beautiful results that give them a want their skin to be clean and dewy by an esthetician, skin is continually
confidence boost is a perfect fit for any post treatment. They dont want to needing tender care and protection.
spa. It is also ideal when you provide apply a heavy layer of pore-clogging However, no client wants
any sort of skin service. It is a perfect makeup right after a treatment, but to walk out in public and be exposed
extension of a spas skincare offerings, they also dont want to leave feeling to the elements or feel self-conscious
seeing as how most women wear their shiny or red. Sara LaBree, of their post-service skin. Makeup is
makeup for 12 to 16 hours a day. It is educational manager, Jurlique the perfect companion to spa services,
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
ideal to offer them a makeup that will because it allows the client to go out
not only work alongside the skincare they An esthetician analyzes skin to into the world after a service with a
purchase in your spa but also benefit determine what type of facial and breathable, protective shield while still
the skin as they wear it throughout the what products would be used to putting their best face forward.
day.Hannah Hatcher, global educator, help the client depending on their Pauline Youngblood-Toth, founder and
Jane Iredale Mineral Cosmetics skin issues. They can apply and CEO, Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics
44 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
skin quencher
reduction
21% 88%
smoother
wrinkle tighter
21% wrinkle reduction* after Tighter and smoother skin
only 3 weeks of usage in 88% of users**
reduction
84% 80%
improved
No matter your skin type, its thirsty but quenchable with But not all hyaluronic acids are created equal. Able to
our small molecular weight hyaluronic acid intensive penetrate the skin better than larger molecule versions,
Hyaluronic Elixir. Present in large amounts between skin 1 gram of the hyaluronic acid in our magical elixir can
cells, hyaluronic acid is a key component in maintaining hold onto 1 liter of water or 1,000 times its own weight!
plumpness, rmness and suppleness. Go ahead, quench your skins thirst!
* Clinically tested with Visioline V 650 skin analysis device. **Dermatologist supervised 3-week usage test on 25 women.
1 3
CURATIVE
2
1. Age-Defying Foundation
SOTHYS PARIS
www.sothys-usa.com
4
2. CC Perfecting Primer 5
YOUNGBLOOD MINERAL COSMETICS
www.ybskin.com
4. BB Flawless Liquid
Mineral Foundation
SYNERGIE MINERALS 7
www.skinelegance.com
8
5. Mineral Corrector Palette
COLORESCIENCE
www.colorescience.com
6. Repchage Perfect 6
Skin Liquid Foundation
REPCHAGE
www.repechage.com
10
10. RA Illuma Colour
Mineral Powder
RHONDA ALLISON COSMECEUTICALS FOR MORE HEALING MAKEUP,
www.rhondaallison.com VISIT www.americanspa.com.
46 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
ON TOPIC | SKIN DEEP
DANGER
ZONE
As skin cancer becomes more
prevalent, spas today need to
NO CONVERSATION ABOUT be prepared to help clients deal cumulative sun exposure and
skin, the bodys largest organ, with this serious skin concern. genetics. As a result, spas and
is complete without addressing BY HEATHER MIKESELL skincare manufacturers are responding
the increasing number of skin to this growing concern with education
cancer cases diagnosed each year. about the importance of sun protection
Journalist Anderson Cooper, actor and improved formulas that not only help to
Hugh Jackman, actress Diane Keaton, and protect the skin from developing skin cancer but also
senator John McCain have all been treated for skin help it to heal after surgery. With more spa-goers dealing with
cancer. Unfortunately, no one is immune. According to this serious skin condition, its more important than ever that
Joyce Imahiyerobo-Ip, consultant for HydroPeptide and your spa staff be equipped to handle the challenges those
director of cosmetic dermatology at South Shore Medical dealing with skin cancer face, from knowing how to recognize
Center (Norwell, MA), there are two factors that determine suspicious-looking spots to educating clients on UV protection
an individuals risk of developing skin cancer: his or her to minimizing and covering scars after treatment.
typecasting cancer
Although those with fair skin are thought to be most at
risk, people of all colors and races can be diagnosed with
relevant RESEARCH
these various forms of skin cancer. Wondering about skin cancers are associated
cancer's scary impact? with exposure to
ACTINIC KERATOSIS (AK) is a skin cancer warning Check out some of the ultraviolet (UV) radiation
sign. These precancerous growths present as dry, scaly statistics being reported from the sun.
patches caused by exposure to UV radiation. by the Skin Cancer Basal cell carcinoma
Foundation: (BCC) is the most
BASAL CELL CARCINOMA (BCC), the most common common form of skin
type of skin cancer, is the abnormal or uncontrolled One in five Americans cancer.
growths and tumors that occur in areas of the skin that will develop skin cancer The annual cost of
are most likely exposed to the sun. It is thought to be in the course of a lifetime. treating skin cancers in
caused by long-term UV exposure. Resembling eczema Each year in the U.S., more the U.S. is estimated at
and psoriasis, it is easily treated if caught early. than 5.4 million cases $8.1 billion; about $4.8
of non-melanoma skin billion for non-melanoma
SQUAMOUS CELL CARCINOMA (SCC), the second cancer are treated in more skin cancers and $3.3
most common type of skin cancer, develops in cells than 3.3 million people. billion for melanoma.
found in the middle and outer layer of the skin. It often Over the past three An estimated 9,730
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
presents as a red scaly patch or sore that heals and decades, more people people will die of
then reappears. have had skin cancer melanoma in 2017.
than all other cancers
MELANOMA, the deadliest form of skin cancer, combined. For more info, stats,
often appears as a changing mole or a new dark spot. About 90 percent of and studies, go to
It develops in cells that produce melanin. Early non-melanoma skin www.skincancer.org.
diagnosis is key.
48 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
SPA TABLES 2.0
THE NEWEST GENERATION
CT
LLE UAL
TE
IN
G
T PENDIN
PATEN
Y
PROPERT
1. 2.
UNIQUE FLEXIBILITY NOVEL CONCEPT DESIGN
Thanks to its numerous adjustment The SPL Sphinx is the rst fusion
possibilities and the patented, of two different types of Gharieni
double-sided adjustable armrests, treatment tables: it combines the
the MLX Limber offers entirely new practical functionality of a facial
treatment positions. It also has a treatment chair with the pleasant
large storage space in the base. comfort and the individual design of
a spa table.
ANS D
CO ISIT U ! Gharieni USA Inc./ Operational Showroom
M E
V Turnberry Isle 19999 West Country Club Drive Aventura Florida 33180
Tel. (855) 378 4772 www.gharieni.com info@gharieni.us
ON TOPIC | SKIN DEEP
early detection
It should come as no surprise that
estheticians are in a unique position to
detect any changes in the skin. This is
particularly true for those clients who
schedule treatments on a regular basis.
It is important spa industry professionals
be aware of the warning signs of skin
cancer, particularly melanoma, and join
dermatologists in helping to educate
clients on those warning signs, says
HydroPeptides Joyce Imahiyerobo-IP.
It can be very challenging to get an
appointment with a dermatologist, and
clients often seek spa services for their they do have a keen eye for skin of cosmetic and clinical research in
skincare needs. This provides a great irregularities, says Philippe Allouche, dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in
window of opportunity for emphasizing M.D., head of creation and co-owner of New York City, goes a step further. If
the importance of sunscreen use and Biologique Recherche in the U.S.. Its a spa does not have a dermatologist on
the importance of bringing suspicious built into the foundation of what they staff, then I feel it is important for the
lesions or marks to the attention of a do. If they see a skin irregularity while spa to have a relationship with a local
board-certified dermatologist. performing a service, they can encourage dermatologist for referrals, he says.
Your spas staff members can provide their client to visit a dermatologist Oftentimes it is the esthetician, stylist,
an additional line of defense. While to have that spot or spots checked or cosmetologist who detects a new or
estheticians are not dermatologists, out. Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director changing spot on the face or scalp.
new technologies that will protect exposed skin as well contain DNA repair enzymes, which help minimize
as help heal damaged skin tissue. We strongly believe permanent damage to DNA strands and help skin cells
in the application of probiotics in conjunction with other function optimally.
ingredients that have been proven to offer benefits in
protecting healthy skin while helping to repair damaged For more on how sun protection is evolving, be sure to
skin, says Steven Rosenfeld, president of Columbia check out Skin Deep in our July issue.
50 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
Healthy Trends
Bring Healthy Profits
Top Wellness Trend of 2017:
3-in-1 infrared treatments
battle scars
Winning the war on skin cancer It is important to prepare skin before the environment, enhance collagen
often involves a full-on attack. While surgery, keeping it perfectly hydrated, remodeling, and improve hydration.
immunotherapy, which relies on the which will help with the healing. Sunscreen use is key, as scars are
use of various medicines to stimulate Ingredients such as arnica, phytocutan, very sensitive to sun exposure.
the immune system to recognize and rosa mosqueta, and tamanu oil help Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director
destroy cancer cells, doesnt leave improve the healing of scars. Look for of cosmetic and clinical research in
scars, it is an option for only a small the highest concentrations of these dermatology, Mount Sinai Hospital
percentage of people. According to ingredients.Josanna Gaither, education
dermatologist Debra Jaliman, M.D., and aesthetic director, Natura Biss When skin scars, it does not always
only about 20 percent of people respond recover properly. This can cause a
well to the treatment. Other treatments After surgical procedures, it is important keloid, an over production of tissue,
involve incisions, Mohs surgery in to apply an antibiotic ointment to the which is not ideal aesthetically and can
which thin layers of cancer-ridden skin wound until it fully heals. This allows cause hypersensitivity. There is a new
are removed and examined until only the skin to heal from the inside out generation of patches that compress
cancer-free skin remains, and skin without the formation of a scab, which the keloid and minimize its appearance.
grafts. Unfortunately, these options in the end, leaves a more cosmetically Total UV protection is strongly
can leave spa-goers with noticeable pleasing scar. After the scar has formed, recommended for at least one year after
scars. Here are some suggestions for silicone gels and sheets are helpful, surgery together with hyaluronic acid
minimizing them. because they protect the scar from products.Barbara Gavazzoli,
director of communication and education,
clients to find the best solution for their needs is key. Neutralizing the scars training manager, G.M. Collin Skincare
color is one way to make it appear less obvious. Green tinted makeup can
be very helpful for red scars, says Desiree Ratner, M.D., director of the
Comprehensive Skin Cancer Center at Mount Sinai Beth Israel Medical
For healing, I recommend aloe vera,
Center (New York City). Deeper scars often require wax-based concealers because it is an anti-inflammatory. Green
to fill the indentation. Working with a professional makeup artist can help. tea in a product is also good, as it has lots
of antioxidants.Debra Jaliman, M.D.
52 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
YOUR YOUTH SERUM HAS NEVER
BEEN SO EFFECTIVE!
6 HIGH PERFORMANCE
SERUMS INSPIRED BY
DERMO-ESTHETIC
TECHNIQUES.
TRENDING
IN 2017
Some industry experts natural solutions
share their thoughts on the I think as more and more companies Without a doubt, todays consumers
biggest skincare trends of understand biodynamic ingredients are much more aware of what is placed
the year. BY HEATHER MIKESELL grown in harmony with the seasons and not only in but also on their bodies,
the alignment of the earth, the moon, tapping into a wellness movement
and the stars, certified biodynamic that includes the selection of natural
ingredients will have the biggest impact skincare products formulated with
Clients and professionals are now understanding that skin health starts within.
Were seeing greater investment in whats put into the body and an interest in
gut health to support healthy skin. Naturopathica has always taken a holistic
approach and, using my knowledge of herbal medicine, introduced a new range
of ingestible herbal remedies that support skin health and wellbeing.Barbara
Close, founder and CEO, Naturopathica (www.naturopathica.com)
54 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
bacteria
ON TOPIC | FROM THE FIELD
BATTLERS
INGREDIENT INNOVATION We are seeing a strong
trend toward more natural
Highly water absorbent and weight, creating a hydrating film products, especially products
hydroscopic ingredients like sodium on the skin surface, and one with a with innovative formulations.
PCA and sodium hyaluronate are low molecular weight that will help Clearly, the most interest we
trending. We use these ingredients to strengthen the structure of the are seeing from both skincare
in our signature bubble-masking dermis.Philippe Allouche, M.D., professionals and consumers
treatments. Have water, will plump. CEO, Biologique Recherche North is in our probiotic products.
Shannon McLinden, founder and America (www.biologique-recherche.com) With the increased public
president, FarmHouse Fresh awareness of the benefits
(www.farmhousefreshgoods.com) As a cosmetic manufacturer, we of probiotics and a greater
see a number of trends emerging understanding of healthy
Collagen protects against free in 2017. Among the most popular bacteria, people are reaching
radicals and limits aging effects, ingredients are Himalayan salts, out to us for information on
making it a popular ingredient. turmeric, and retinoids.Rena Columbia Probiotic Complex
Biologique Recherche uses two types Revivio, founder and CEO, Spa de Soleil and Columbia Probiotic
of collagen: one with a high molecular (www.spadesoleil.com) Concentrate. We have seen
the demand for these products
increase threefold during the
last quarter.Steven Rosenfeld,
epigenetics
president, Columbia Skincare
(columbiaskincares.com)
Genetics in skincare is trending. Exciting advancements in the science of epigenetics The new frontiers in wellness
are allowing us to optimize skin health at the cellular level.Chris Pachuilo, cofounder and longevity science are
and vice president of marketing, HydroPeptide (www.hydropeptide.com) deeply influencing the way we
treat skin. Moreover, the most
Through the science of epigenetics, consumers are learning more about how and recent medical discoveries on
why lifestyle choices affect their DNA and its message to the body. High-performance its good bacteria are opening
skincare products are key in addressing 360 degrees of wellness.Charlene DeHaven, a completely new frontier.
M.D., clinical director, Innovative Skincare (www.innovativeskincare.com) We are already hearing a lot
about probiotic and prebiotic
skincare, and we are just at the
beginning.Barbara Gavazzoli,
director of communication and
FAST FIXES AND education, Comfort Zone
Easy, quick treatments with high-yielding rewards are the trend Probiotics will remain a
for todays busy working individuals. Products like a hydrogel hot ingredient for 2017, as
collagen mask or a quality sheet mask can benefit the skin while topically, they protect the
keeping it hydrated and supple all day. Just 15 minutes causes skin from damaging bacteria.
stressed and dehydrated skin to come alive with a lifted, tightened, and plumped Both high and low molecular
effect.Susanna DiSotto, director of marketing, Satin Smooth (www.satinsmooth.com) hyaluronic acid is trending,
as it complements fillers
PHOTOGRAPHY/ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES
In 2017, theres an evolution in worldwide trends in several categories of by restoring and holding
cosmetics, combining tradition and innovation. Theres an always-growing moisture content in the skin.
interest in multifunctional cosmetics that are easy to use and offer lasting results. Micellar waters will also be
Turbo beauty matches innovation and technology with more and more performing in the forefront both for their
elements that reach maximum efficacy in a short time.Clara Macchiella Corradini, convenience and the gentle
founder, Bioline Jat (www.bioline-jato.com/us) cleansing they provide the
skin.Karen Asquith, director
Products with multi-use applications are on trend more than ever. Phytomers of education, G.M. Collin Skincare
Resurfaslim Peel and Slim Cream and CC Crme are two favorites.Lenette (www.gmcollin.com)
Casper, president, Phytomer Group Brands (www.phytomerusa.com)
56 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
skinade.com increased skin hydration
and radiance*
improvements in skin
conditions such as eczema,
psoriasis and acne*
This statement has not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.
*based on an independent survey of 282 people drinking skinade for 100 days
60 SUCCESS
STORIES
Skoah
64 HR TIPS
Boomerang At Skoahs Capitol Hill Seattle
Employees location, spa-goers learn about
the companys proprietary
skincare line, which features
a blend of 11 plant extracts.
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 59
BIZ | SUCCESS STORIES Skoah, a facial-only spa,
retails its own product line,
including its South Granville
location in Vancouver.
path
TO PROSPERITY
A spa that breaks the mold provides
people with a roadmap to healthy skin.
FOCUSED ONLY ON FACIALS, SKOAH DEBUTED IN 2001 IN VANCOUVERS YALETOWN DISTRICT. ALTHOUGH OWNERS CHRIS
and Andrea Scott didnt have any previous spa experience, they didnt let that stop them from creating the type of experience they
thought customers craved. Their initial Skoah tagline was No whale music, no bubbling cherubs, no pretentious attitudes. As a result,
the first Skoah location ended up appealing to people who had never been to a spa before. The Scotts had the foresight to hire a chemist
to develop a product line guided by customers needs and desires. Andrea also returned to school to become a certified makeup artist
and developed a makeup line to accompany the Skoah skincare line. The brand has since expanded to locations in Boston, Calgary, and
Seattle, and another location is slated for Toronto later this year. In the past five years, weve expanded from three locations to 17, says
Andrea. Since launching our franchise opportunity in July, weve signed two deals and have eight more pending, which we expect to
close in the next six weeks. Here, Andrea shares how Skoah is paving its way to success, one facial at a time.
[ Q+A ]
TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE Likewise, we have been disciplined about
SKOAHS SUCCESS? sticking to what we are best in the world
I attribute our success to being relentlessly atfacials only and honing our craft. Where I attribute
passionate and disciplined about our companys core estheticians at a general spa may do five to our success
values. This extends to our in-store experiences, our seven facials a month, our skincare trainers are to being
internal communication and interactions, and now doing about four a day. Plus, we make incredible relentlessly
our franchisee selection process. As the cofounder products that use some of the best ingredients passionate
and CEO, I visit every location and meet with every out there. This commitment to quality pays off
and
disciplined...
crew member to explain why our core values are in products that do what they say they will do.
what they are and what that means for them as a
member of the Skoah family. I believe that instilling WHERE DID THE NAME SKOAH ORIGINATE?
listening to understand, loving what you do, and all The name doesnt have a specific meaning and
of our core values into each crew member is why that was intentional. We didnt want the name to
each location sees great success. continued on page 62
60 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
BIZ | SUCCESS STORIES about Skoahs future. As for getting clients to
come in repeatedly, Skoah is a membership-
based model, so many of our guests come every
month. Just like people get their nails done
every couple of weeks, get a blowout often, or a
monthly massage, a monthly facial is an easily
adoptable and extremely practical habit.
62 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
BIZ | HR TIPS
returns?
MANY HAPPY
Thinking about bringing back
a former employee? Consider the
pros and cons of doing so.
THE SPA INDUSTRY IS ONE THAT IS me last time may be statements a manager
known for a workforce that changes jobs rather eventually will hear from the rehire. But even
frequently. For some wellness businesses, this if your candidate returns as a model employee,
may mean being presented with the conundrum your staff that has stayed now features a different
of possibly rehiring a former employee. The team dynamic. Recycling a boomerang employee
question is, should you do it? In the world of could decrease the loyalty from those who have
business and human resources, most would stayed. After all, allowing someone to return
say there are times when an employer should sends a message to others that its okay to quit.
absolutely rehire a boomerang employee, such as
in circumstances that affect the businesss bottom Why do you want to rehire this candidate?
line or if the employees departure involved Most often, a manager is willing to rehire a
extenuating circumstances. But the main thing candidate because of some positive attribute he
to consider is if bringing a former employee back or she brought to the organization. The bigger
will have a positive or negative outcome on your question might be: is it because that person filled
business. Here are a few questions to ponder: an area in your company where there remains a
deficit? Patchworking an organizational deficit
Why did the employee leave? Time may have does not create an innovative workforce. A better
lapsed, but the mindset of your potential rehire alternative may be to seek a candidate with similar
has likely not changed. Most employees leave for skills who enhances the direction you want to move
more money, job advancement, and better benefits. in rather than being complacent with someone
Remembering the exact reason may be helpful in whose familiarity makes you comfortable.
determining if youre about to make a mistake. Its
more than likely that old habits and even positive In asking yourself these questions, you may also
work ethics may return with your candidate, but want to remind yourself of the power of fresh eyes.
ultimately the reason why your potential rehire left Businesses change and grow or change and fail,
may again re-emerge, probably in less time than it but one of the best ways to change and grow is by
took in their former employment with you. adding new team members. These new hires bring
MICHAEL G. TOMPKINS
new forms of creativity, new ideas to enhance IS AN EXECUTIVE
Will rehiring this employee improve or your operations, and new ways of thinking. Fresh RECRUITER WITH
HUTCHINSON
ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES
diminish your employee culture? There will eyes examine a business differently than anyone CONSULTING.
always be the second honeymoon effect when an previously and have the potential to increase your TO CONTACT HIM,
employee returns, but your organization and your business reach by bringing new contacts. The CALL (520) 425-6387
OR EMAIL
employee culture will have changed. Its important best business growth is often a result of fresh MICHAEL@HUTCHINSON
to note that comments like thats not the way perspective, not from recycling prior memories. CONSULTING.COM.
64 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
indie
BEAUTY
by american spa
farm to skin
BLOOMS IN BEAUTY
ingredients
TAP INTO TRENDING
DISCOVER THE
top brands
STORY BEHIND
in time
A MOMENT
9 co
ntents
2 Betting the Farm
Check out how farm-to-skin
beauty is having a major impact
on the spa industry.
6 Ingredients of Note
Indie insiders share trending
ingredients that are must-haves in
todays products.
10 LA Story
Indie Beauty Expo returns to
Los Angeles for the second time
to connect brands with buyers.
10
20 Q&A with Bobbi Brown
The makeup guru and inspiring
entrepreneur gives tips to the indie
beauty business owner.
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 1
farm to skin
farm
BETTING THE
Taking all-natural
products to the next
level, farm-to-skin
beauty is making
a major impact.
BY JULIE KELLER CALLAGHAN
2 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
farm to skin
products topically, he says. But, as with A Wholesome Glow, agrees, pointing Batten. Consumers are turning to plant
anything that becomes mainstream, out that to her, farm to skin involves oils originating from the nuts or seeds
there are always companies there to turning over the soil, harvesting the of trees, fruits, vegetables, and flowers
take things up a notch. Thats where products, and creating, producing, and that nourish and fortify the skin. This
the farm-to-skin movement comes in, a packaging each product from start to nature-made complex strengthens the
development that is particularly popular finish on the farm. skins own natural protective barrier as
in the indie marketplace. The organic Some folks take this concept even well as its ability to produce collagen.
trend has been of interest for some further, actually timing the harvesting The result is not just healthy-looking
time, but the recent shift is a focus on of the products to ensure the highest skin, it is skin that is healthy.
where the ingredients are grown, says efficacy of ingredients, like the team And as more people adopt this
John Michael Booth, chairman of Aura- at Aeos, which has a biodynamic particularly healthy approach to
Soma Products, brand owner of Aeos. farm in England. We minimize the skincare, the future is certainly looking
Simply put, it is a concept in which loss of actives through harvesting bright. In fact, as Laurel Whole Plant
products are created from seed to the plants at their most potent life Organicss owner and formulator Laurel
skin, says Sara LaBree, education and force and choosing supercritical CO2 Shaffer says, its more of a movement
events manager, North America, for extraction methods to further enhance than a trend. It is a movement
Jurlique. It is the process of farm- the integrity of our ingredients so that towards sustainability for our world;
grown ingredients being harvested and they can be of optimal benefit to our a movement that demands a call to
put into product formulations without customers skin, says Booth. action for companies to care about their
being overly processed and without So far, consumers are embracing consumers health and wellbeing, she
changing hands through multiple the farm-to-skin phenomenon, with says. My hope is that we will continue
distributors. The longer the time many sustainably minded shoppers moving forward but also look back at
and the more hands that touch fresh approaching skincare the way they old methods of farming and crafting
ingredients, the more of the nutrients select their food. Synthetic ingredients in order to create a new standard of
and quality that are lost. Carmen have no place in either one, says sustainable farming and beauty.
Gendebien, chief experience officer of Patricia Walker, founder of Board and continued on page 4
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 3
clockwise from top: The
minence, A Wholesome
Glow, and FarmHouse Fresh
farms are a treasure trove
of healthy ingredients.
farming
continued from page 3
FEATS OF Here, take a look at how some companies are tapping into this
eco-friendly phenomenon with their own farms or local farm partners.
AEOS (www.aeos.net) products MINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE and more, from farms across the
are produced on the companys 550- (www.eminenceorganics.com) recently U.S., including its own in Texas.
acre Demeter-certified biodynamic opened its certified organic farm in
farm in England. Hungary to the public. It features seasonal JURLIQUE (www.jurlique.com)
gardens that grow the fruits, herbs, products are formulated from
A WHOLESOME GLOW and vegetables that have been used for ingredients culled directly from the
(www.awholesomeglow.com) creates its generations in many of the companys companys biodynamic and organic
bath and bodycare line using ingredients products and serves as an education farm in Adelaide Hills, Australia.
grown or sourced on the owners dairy center to teach future generations about
farm in upstate New York. the importance of healthy nutrition, LAUREL WHOLE PLANT ORGANICS
organic farming, and more. (www.laurelskin.com) products
BOARD AND BATTEN are almost entirely made with
(www.farmtoskin.com) products contain FARMHOUSE FRESH ingredients sourced from organic or
ingredients that have either been (www.farmhousefreshgoods.com) biodynamic farms located within
harvested from the companys farm in features natural and naturally derived 100 miles of the companys Sausalito,
Florida or have been inspired by it. ingredients like fruits, vegetables, milk, CA, production studio.
4 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
farm to skin
HONEST harvest
Our experts reveal what qualifies
or disqualifies a product from being
a true farm-to-skin offering.
pricing PARADIGM
customer, so they can feel confident about
their purchases and know that the quality
they are paying for is actually present in
their product.Sara LaBree, education and
events manager, North America, Jurlique Though there are countless benefits to adopting a farm-to-skin regimen,
many such products do come with a higher price point, which can give some
A disqualifier is a product that contains consumers pause. Organic raw materials and organic farming is 20 to 40
parabens, toxins, and any ingredient that percent more expensive than conventional methods and materials, says
gets over a three on the EWG website (www. Jurliques Sara LaBree. There are numerous benefits to going green, however,
ewg.org). Farm-to-skin brands use natural there are also additional costs, which can result in a higher price point for
ingredients as preservatives or do not use products. A Wholesome Glows Carmen Gendebien says most clients are fine
water in their products to avoid bacteria with shelling out additional green for these ultra-green products. Its our job
growth. The products have a shorter shelf to show our customers the value of buying a product that has been cared for
life. However, the products are fresher, and from the moment it came out of the ground to when it was carefully laid on a bed
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES (THIS PAGE)
when used properly, they will be used up of red clover hay in its delivery box, she says. We are selling more than just a
by the time of expiration date. Natural and product but a true quality experience that is worth the price.
organic formulators are also very concerned Still others point out that the prices of these products are not necessarily
about the extraction process they use to excessive, particularly when compared to other high-end retail brands.
extract the oils so that no chemical residues Customers are spending hundreds of dollars annually on conventional
remain in the final ingredient, therefore brands that are filled with some of the worst toxic ingredients, says Orgnachs
achieving a cleaner product.Siobhan Farm to Skins Siobhan McKinley. There are many, many organic skincare
McKinley, owner, Orgnachs Farm to Skin brands available that are using certified organic ingredients following the
strictest practices and cost the consumer less money.
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 5
whats trending
ingredien
ts
OF NOTE
Indie beauty insiders
share their picks for the
skincare ingredients that
are making an impact.
BY HEATHER MIKESELL
(www.koparibeauty.com)
6 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
Pumpkin seed oil is truly a gem.
Everyone wants clear, younger looking
skin, and pumpkin seed oil delivers big
time. This oil is rich in vitamin E, zinc,
antioxidants, and fatty acids, which
provide tremendous benefits to the skin
in terms of retaining moisture, fighting
free radicals, and maintaining a youthful
appearance. The high amounts of zinc
and vitamin E also improve skintone,
Nicole Anagnos
fight acne, and help with skin renewal. Its
enzymes make pumpkin seed oil a highly effective exfoliator and
a gentle alternative to harsh chemical peels. Its phytonutrients,
minerals, enzymes, and vitamins infuse the skin with important
elements that bring about cellular rejuvenation and strengthen
weakened skin structures. This is especially important for aging
or damaged skin, which is why pumpkin seed oil is one of the top
ingredients in our Klo Organic Beauty anti-aging serums.Nicole
Anagnos, founder, Klo Organic Beauty (www. klobeauty.com)
Ferulic acid is an organic compound commonly found in plant cell wall components. As an
antioxidant, it actively fights free radicals, a significant contributor towards oxidative stress, which
results in DNA damage and cellular aging. When combined with vitamins C and E, ferulic acids
ability to fight free radicals and reduce damage caused by oxidative stress is increased. Other key
benefits include suppressing radiation-induced oxidative reactions, working synergistically with other
antioxidants to improve their potency, acting as an anti-inflammatory, and absorbing easily into the
skin.Shunri MacQuarrie, founder and CEO, Shunly Skin Care (www.shunlyskincare.com)
Shunri MacQuarrie
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 7
whats trending
I think honey is making a real impact on the skincare industry. Even though honey has
been around for thousands of years, there are many on the market today, and they
are not all equal. The honey you buy in the grocery store is no better than high-
fructose sugar that has been processed. Local honey from an apiary or health
food store is raw and unfiltered. This honey contains a level of hydrogen
peroxide, which gives it an antibiotic quality. Honey can protect against
damage caused by bacteria, and it also has an anti-inflammatory action
that can reduce pain and inflammation. In my
products, I use local honey and medical-grade
Manuka honey. Manuka honey that has a unique
Manuka factor (UMF) of 10+ or higher is considered
medical grade. I use 20+. This means that this honey
contains methylglyoxal, which gives it its antibacterial
power. So if you combine this with the fact that honey is a
humectant, you have an ingredient that can do a lot of healing
and moisturizing of the skin. Raw honey is full of antioxidants, so it can
slow down aging. Its great for acne, its a complexion booster, and it can give you a glow
Andrea Pierce-Naymon and clarify to help open pores.Andrea Pierce-Naymon, founder, Oy-l (www.oy-l.com)
8 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
The best ingredients for natural skincare products are raw and organic botanical extracts.
If free of petrochemical solvents and preservatives, pure plant extracts can have a profound
positive impact on the skins health and vitality. Their potent phytonutrients, such as minerals,
vitamins, and fatty acids, strengthen the skins regenerative functions and protect it from the
environments harmful effects. With regard to stability and sustainability in skincare formulas,
pure botanical extracts are far superior to their laboratory made, synthetic, and powder
alternatives. Encompassing a variety of sources, such as fruits; vegetables; herbs, such as
leaves, bark, and roots; seeds; and nuts, raw botanical extracts offer a wide range of skin
beautification benefits to target and transform numerous skin concerns and problems.
Vida Karamooz Vida Karamooz, Ph.D., founder and CEO, Blue Beautifly (www.bluebeautifly.com)
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 9
show coverage
y
stor
LA
Indie Beauty Expo returns to Los Angeles
to connect brands with buyers, influencers,
and more. BY JULIE KELLER CALLAGHAN
10 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 11
show
show coverage
BEST IN
A panel of judges, including American Spas own Julie
Keller Callaghan, was tapped to name its top picks among
the IBE LA exhibitors. The winners included:
12 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
BEST FACIAL OILI
show coverage
Max & Me
www.maxandme.at/en
BEST INGESTIBLE OR
BEAUTY SUPPLEMENT
Bebiotin
www.bebiotin.com
BEST BALM:
FACE & BODYI
CV Skin Labs
www.cvskinlabs.com
BEST LIPI BEST SERUMI
Pinch of Colour Folium Medica
www.pinchofcolour.com www.foliummedica.com
BEST LIFESTYLE BRANDI
Flora-py
www.florapybeauty.com
BEST NEWCOMERI
Lyeska
www.lyeska.com
BEST BODY MOISTURIZER/BUTTERI
Fatco
www.fatco.com
BEST FACIAL
CLEANSER
Edible Beauty BEST FACIAL MASKI
www.ediblebeauty Ling Skincare
australia.com www.lingskincare.com
A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017 I N D I E B E A U T Y | 13
behind the brand
We are driven by science and our patent-pending Hydro Pelusi Ceramide technology to produce supernatural, high-tech
formulas. Then, we empower them with our proprietary blend of 35 certified organic powerhouse ingredients for luxurious hair
think cashmere and silk.
Telas powerhouse, proprietary blend of 35 certified Vegan, no water in the formulas, paraben free, sodium laureth
organic ingredients sulfate free, resin free, water soluble, no harsh detergents, no
Antioxidants, super fruits, strengthening proteins, anti- buildup, gluten free.
irritants, moisturizers, sun protectants, and color protectants
help smooth hair, target frizz, and magnify shine! www.telabeautyorganics.com | (888) 225-5044
ADVERTORIAL
behind the brand
CV Skinlabs
Discover CV Skinlabs for all skin types, especially sensitive. Proven to help soothe, hydrate, and calm fragile skin, its ideal
for dull, dry skin, eczema, and irritation from laser/cosmetic treatments, environmental aggressors, radiation burns, and
more. Natural and organic medicinal ingredients were screened by toxicologists for irritation, safety, and efficacy. Expertly
formulated to deliver superior antihistamine, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing benefits to restore skin to
its healthy and radiant best! Ask about first-order specials. www.cvskinlabs.com | (888) 501-5327
Florapy Beauty
We at Florapy believe beautiful skin starts with beautiful ingredients and that skincare should never feel like a
chore but rather a mindful experience. Florapy is a natural sheet mask collection made of 100 percent coconut fibers.
Our hydrating facial masks are infused with healing flowers and aromatherapy for results you can see and feel.
www.florapybeauty.com | (818) 477-1820
ADVERTORIAL
behind the brand
Kerarganic
Kerarganics OneStep Hair
Rejuvenation system is a state-
of-the-art formulation free of
harsh chemicals designed to
treat damaged hair with an added
bonus of straightening curly hair,
reducing volume, and increasing
manageability of unruly hair.
It is also a safe alternative to
maintain straight and healthy
chemically relaxed ethnic hair.
Its formulation features caviar
extract and an array of selected
natural ingredients known
for their ability to restore and
rejuvenate damaged hair.
For professional use only.
www.kerarganic.com
(786) 247-7120
Olverum
Conceived in 1931, Olverum is a unique and luxurious aromatic blend of essential oils. Combined in a highly concentrated
secret formulation, these carefully chosen extracts create a truly relaxing and uplifting experience for body and mind
helping to soothe aching muscles, relieve stress, and promote a restorative sleep. For more than eight decades, Olverums
reputation has grown by word of mouth; its enduring appeal, multiple therapeutic benefits, and gorgeous unisex
fragrance defining it as a European cult-beauty classic. www.olverum.com | (+44) 7958-277435
ADVERTORIAL
behind the brand
OY-L
OY-L is an independent line of all natural, plant-derived, luxury skincare
products. Crafted in small artisanal batches, OY-L is non-toxic, using naturally
healing medical-grade Manuka honey, minerals, plant and essential oils, and
anti-inflammatory and anti-aging ingredients. All OY-L products work while
hydrating and improving elasticity and tone of the skin on the face and body.
www.oy-l.com | (216) 410-5485
Paris Honor
PH SIMPLY by Paris Honor
Paris Honor is redefining natural skincare by Ingredients and formulas from global experts are hand
using the fewest yet finest organic ingredients that blended in the USA. Were vegan, cruelty-free, alcohol-free,
yield visible results. and paraben-free.
Our Flawless Face Care Trio; our Handbag Essentials Set; Skincare developed to nourish and protect with LESS.
and the first cosmetic-grade, alcohol-free hand and skin
sanitizer highlight our commitment to less is more. www.parishonore.com | (651) 755-5885
ADVERTORIAL
behind the brand
HydroHair
ECO. Modern essentials HydroHairs line is made with 100 percent organic aloe and
amino acids, which keep hair hydrated, vibrant, and healthy.
ECO. Modern essentials are the specialists in natural and organic oil
formulations for face, body, and wellbeing. The ECO. brand embodies The lineup manages this by preventing damage from sources
women who are engaged with their world and are active, healthy, and like heat and ultraviolet rays while also promoting scalp and
love to look after themselves with natural, local, and organic products. follicle health by providing hydration, vitamins, and balancing pH.
www.ecomodernessentials.com | +617 55757144 www.hydrohair.com | (917) 722-2347
ADVERTORIAL
behind the brand
KM Herbals
Our Calendula Collection brightens and soothes, protecting and
Immupure improving the texture of delicate skin and hair! Clarify and tone
the face and body with our regenerative and moisturizing calendula
Immupure anti-aging skincare products contain a unique, natural skincare to balance and boost your healthy summer glow. Also enjoy
complex obtained from proline-rich peptide colostrum to fight our revitalizing calendula haircare to naturally highlight, fortify, and
wrinkles and rebuild collagen. www.immupure.com | (866) 234-4589 add shine. www.kmherbals.com | (707) 878-2980
ADVERTORIAL
interview
bobbi brown
Q&A
WITH
Q: You had no formal business training going. Mistakes, I dont believe in them. its going to become more important.
or expertise. Was that a problem, or It just means do something else. The combination of creating cool
maybe a little bit of a help? content with having a great product is a
BB: I think it was the reason Im Q: Why do you think that indie beauty really good way to reach a customer.
successful. I just never thought it is something women are attracted to,
wouldnt work. When other people were and why is it a growing category? Q: How does an indie brand make
talking about what it could be, I was BB: I think indie anything is cool. And the leap to being a bigger international
actually making it happen. I think being right now, I think most people want brand with lots of SKUs?
an entrepreneur is just doing what you something they just discovered or BB: Slowly. Very slowlyAnd guess
think is right and not listening. something new or different. I think the what? Then youre part of a big
indie food industry is fascinating. I think company, and you have to grow, and
Q: What is the most common piece the clothes are interesting. I think that grow, and grow. So, its definitely
of advice people ask you for? small, cool, innovative companies are challenging. I know everyone wants
BB: You dont know how many times where its at. to be the indie brand that sells their
people come to me and say they want company, but let me just tell you,
to start a business, and I say okay, Q: You were an early adapter to social when you do sell the company, and the
and thats as far as it goes. People want media and Instagram. Do you think company is big, you will look back fondly
my fairy dust on them, which doesnt thats a useful tool for indie brands? at what youre going through right now.
exist. I dont know why my company BB: I think its unbelievable, because Be happy where you are. This is the
became so successful. I dont know why so many people think, Oh I need to good stuff. Its really fun. You know, its
others arent. My advice is to make sure make an investment and have someone like moms when you look at your kids
what you have is better than anything market me with social influencers, and when theyre two and three years old
else out there and that you dont give Im like, Guys, just start now. Open an and then suddenly theyre 25, and youre
up. Dont think that its easy for a day. Instagram. Its free. Put a lot of pictures like God, I wish they were two and three
Every day is really hard. Every single on, put words there that explain what it again. So be in the present, and be
day. Enjoy the positive times, and keep is. I think its really important, and I think happy where you are.SAMANTHA REED
20 | I N D I E B E A U T Y M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M
Grow Your Career. Build Your Business.
Let eLearning Take You There.
Grow your business and client base by gaining valuable knowledge, any
time, any place, and at your own pace. Youll get access to education,
insight, and information exclusive to American Spa Institute members.
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Grow Your Career. Build Your Business.
Let eLearning Take You There.
Grow your business and client base by gaining valuable knowledge, any
time, any place, and at your own pace. Youll get access to education,
insight, and information exclusive to American Spa Institute members.
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Reveal
BEAUTIFUL
Why Consumers will Reveal Beautiful
info@dermaconcepts.com
508.539.8900
68 IN THE KNOW
News & Trends
72 WHATS NEW
Products & Equipment
74 AN ESTHETICIANS
DOS AND DONTS
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
Legal Lowdown
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 67
MEDICAL SPA | IN THE KNOW
millennials seek
preventative procedures
Fifty one percent of American Academy of Facial Plastic
and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS) members agree
that more patients now emphasize early maintenance,
with increasing numbers of men and women in their 20s
and 30s opting for preventative measures to forestall more
invasive measures. This emerging segment uses advanced
skincare practices, sun prevention, and starts with facial
injectables before they reach their 30s. In fact, 56 percent
of facial plastic surgeons saw an increase in 2016 in
cosmetic surgery or injectables with patients under age
30. The focus has shifted from correction to prevention,
says AAFPRS president Fred G. Fedok. Even before the
first signs of sagging, lines, or volume loss, we are seeing
patients adamant about stalling the aging process. As for
whats leading this trend, almost all AAFPRS members
say its the celebrity influence. Clients see ageless A-listers
and are looking for the same results.NATALIE MANEVAL
68 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
naturally beautiful LASHES
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combinations of acids and enzymes in various concentration solutions on the internet, clients
concentrations, facial plastic surgeons can should stick to a concentration of 10 percent or
treat sun damage, brown spots, wrinkles, less for peels with alpha hydroxy acids, like salicylic
acne, and improve lackluster skintone and and glycolic acids, says AAFPRS president Fred
texture with peels. Clients dont have to G. Fedok. It is important they consult with their
worry about red, blistering post-peel skin skincare professional before trying aggressive
because of more advanced and buffered peels on their own to avoid any possible
solutions. An AAFPRS survey showed adverse reactions and to achieve the
that chemical peels are in strong desired result.N.M.
70 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
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WHATS
NEW
BY NATALIE MANEVAL
1
1. RA Regenerative Ampoule
Sothys Cosmeceutique Repair Line
is designed to repair skin after any
dermo-aesthetic procedure. The
ampoules improve the skin and
help regenerate damaged skin
using proprietary ingredients like
Glyco-Repair and Tripeptides GF.
www.sothys-usa.com
2
2. Vitamin C Serum
This all-natural formula from Parry
Botanical has hyaluronic acid
to create hydrated, full, and
youthful-looking skin. Infused with
vitamin B3, the serum stimulates
microcirculation, prevents skin from
losing water with a barrier function,
and improves skin elasticity.
www.parrybotanicals.com
5. H.A. Intensifier
This SkinCeuticals serum corrects the
signs of aging by boosting the skins
hyaluronic acid levels, which, in turn,
improve the firmness, plumpness,
and smoothness of the face.
www.skinceuticals.com
6. Nourish Oil
Pharmagels oil has vitamins and
omegas, including argan oil,
avocado oils, cranberry, marula,
and sea buckthorn, which help
to keep the skin looking youthful.
www.pharmagel.net
72 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
MEDICAL SPA | LEGAL LOWDOWN
AN ESTHETICIANS
DOS AND
DONTS
Find out what medical spa
treatments they can and
cannot legally perform.
RECENT PROCLAMATIONS BY STATE and Cosmetologytwo very influential THE GREY AREA
governing bodies have potentially regulatory agencieshave recently There is one way that people who are
narrowed the list of services estheticians expressed the opinion that dermaplaning estheticians can perform grey area
can perform. Review what an esthetician is a medical treatment, due to the use procedures, such as laser treatments,
can and cannot legally do for a medical of a medical instrument. Likewise, microneedling, and dermaplaning. In
aesthetic practice. these two boards have determined several states, non-licensed professionals
microneedling to be a medical procedure can actually administer these treatments
STICK TO THE EPIDERMIS due to its use of needles. With these if they are properly supervised, trained,
In most states, an estheticians scope of state boards taking the lead, it is very and qualified. If they do not represent
practice is limited to skin treatments that likely that this will become the status themselves as estheticians, they are
are not medical in nature. This seems quo in other states. allowed to perform these treatments.
simple enough on the surface, but the Switching from being an esthetician to a
definition of medical with regard to KNOW THE TERMS non-licensed professional can be as simple
skin treatments can be difficult to pin Titles frequently used by estheticians as switching from one nametag to another.
down. Generally, a medical treatment is can create confusion regarding their All involved must be careful to diligently
understood to be something that impacts ability to perform certain treatments. observe all supervision and delegation
living tissue. The epidermisthe outer A master esthetician is someone who procedures, but this work-around is
layer of skinis universally considered has undertaken advanced aesthetic somewhat commonly practiced in states
dead tissue, so treatments such as facials training above and beyond that which where it is legal. Consult a healthcare
and body scrubs, which are designed only is required to achieve an estheticians attorney to find out if your state permits
to treat the epidermis, are perfectly fine license. The master estheticians license this sort of arrangement.ALEX R. THIERSCH
for estheticians to administer. is only available and recognized in a few
states, and it is important to note that
A HARD LINE a master esthetician still cannot legally ALEX R. THIERSCH,
Dermaplaning, for example, is a perform medical treatments in any state. IS A CHICAGO
HEALTHCARE
treatment in which a medical-grade Likewise, the title medical esthetician ATTORNEY WHO
scalpel is run across the skin in order should be avoided for several reasons. REPRESENTS
MEDICAL SPAS,
to exfoliate it. It is a very safe, simple First of all, there is no such legally
PLASTIC SURGEONS,
procedure that does not have any major recognized title. Secondly, government AND AESTHETIC
side effects and does not apparently agencies have been known to search the MEDICAL
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
74 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
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MEDICAL SPA | UP NEXT FOR NECKS
UP NEXT
FOR NECKS
With necklines now in the skincare spotlight, clients
in search of younger looking, more rejuvenated skin
in this specific area can tap into a variety of options
that make an impact. BY NATALIE MANEVAL
Depending on the clients goals, body, and skin type, there are several ways skin elasticity works amazingly at
to improve the neck. Here are tips for matching the client to the procedure. rejuvenating the skin. It produces new
collagen, so it will tighten the skin.
BOTOX: Botox is an excellent LIGHT THERAPY: While there are Michele S. Green M.D., cosmetic
treatment to help tighten the neck. many lasers and lights that can be used dermatologist (New York City)
For patients with prominent for rejuvenation of the neck, I suggest
neckbands, injecting the bands IPL and BBL. These are used to help COOLSCULPTING: CoolSculpting
with Botox will cause the muscle to rejuvenate the skin and can also help literally freezes targeted areas of fat.
tighten and make the neck appear to eliminate the blood vessels and When fat cells are frozen, many of
more youthful. Botox will not change brown spots and can be adjusted for them die. The result is a permanent
the laxity of the skin on the neck, each persons skin type and desired elimination of fat. It is the only truly
so it is important to explain this to result.Todd Schlifstein M.D., owner, effective non-surgical treatment
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
patients and have them combine a Fountain Med Spa (New York City) for body sculpting.Matt Taranto,
skin-tightening laser such as Fractora managing member, AesthetiCare
or ultherapy for the most noticeable THERMAGE: Thermage performed Medspa (Lawrence and Leawood, KS),
change.Norman M. Rowe M.D., once a year or every two years and owner, Mint Aesthetics medical
board-certified plastic surgeon depending on clients age and spa consulting
76 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
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MEDICAL SPA | UP NEXT FOR NECKS
VARIATIONS IN FREQUENCY
Matt Taranto, managing member of AesthetiCare Medspa and owner of Mint Aesthetics
medical spa consulting, suggests that medical spa professionals train frequently on all
of the spas devices and equipment, as in most cases, lasers and radiofrequency devices
that treat the face, hands, and chest can also treat the neck. Its just a matter of learning
how to use them on the neck, he says. The face heals quickly because of the hair follicles,
while the neck skin is more delicate and will take longer to heal. So, the energy settings
on the devices must usually be adjusted to treat the neck versus the face. Because new
equipment is an investment, Tarantos advice, before purchasing, is to think about the
clientele, but also think about what will give you the most return on value.
Kybella is an FDA-approved injectable treatment that not fully been realized as of yet, and there needs to be
concerns with kybella
targets fat cells under the chin using deoxycholic acid, more results to determine if it is safe, specifically in
which naturally dissolves the fat. Its non-invasive and patients over 50.Kirk Brandow M.D., plastic surgeon
decreases small fat deposits that are often too minuscule and director, The Brandow Clinic (multiple locations).
to be addressed with other methods. However, there are
concerns with this treatment among medical professionals. Just like liposuction, Kybella has the potential for
misuse in overtreating the neck, resulting in irreversible
Kybella injected under the chin is very localized and skeletonization of the neck and other skin contour
may improve some of the fat, but there are complications irregularities. Moreover, the wider availability of
associated with it. If patients have fat in other places of Kybella by various practitioners can result in its use in
their neck, say the jawline, it may create a depression in types of necks that would not benefit from lipolysis.A.
the center. Also, it will produce scar tissue under the skin John Vartanian, M.D., owner, A. John Vartanian, M.D.
and may make it harder to do surgery in that area. The Facial Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery Glendale (CA)
consequences of melting the fat in a specific area have
The patients biggest concern with Kybella is the swelling
afterwards. Knowing how to manage swelling is the key to
effective treatments. Swelling severity and amount is due
to protocol, amount of vials used, and amount of fat that
is present.Todd Schlifstein, M.D., owner, Fountain Med
Spa (New York City)
Its not like Botox, where no one knows you did it five
minutes later. Generally speaking, you need that swelling
to happen. Its a chemical reaction in your skin. There will
be swelling for at least five days.Michele S. Green M.D.,
cosmetic dermatologist (New York City)
78
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when it comes to redefining the neck.
BREAKING A SWEAT
of those people, sweat is particularly seen in seven to 10 days and last four
pervasive in the neck region. For to six months. As for side effects,
those clients, Botox offers an ideal they are consistent with other injections, and redness for a few
solution. Botox injections paralyze Botox treatments and can include hours. The FDA has approved the
the nerves that stimulate the sweat pinpoint bruising, minimal pain with use of Botox for underarm sweat.
80 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
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For clients who want to maintain the results of
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treat the neck region topically before trying more
aggressive treatments, here is a selection of 1
options that provide real results.
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3
2 COMPANY:
DefenAge Skincare
cactus stem extract for
hydration and green tea as
an anti-inflammatory.
6 COMPANY:
Perricone MD
(www.perriconemd.com)
8 COMPANY:
Innovative Skincare
(www.isclinical.com)
(www.defenage.com) PRODUCT: Firming Neck PRODUCT: The Neckperfect
PRODUCT: Clinical Power
Trio is a three-step system
that includes an eight-in-
4 COMPANY: Exuviance
(www.neostrata.com)
PRODUCT: Age Reverse
Therapy helps correct visible
damage on the neck while
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Complex helps the skin
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one BioSerum that fights Toning Neck Cream corrects wrinkles and crepiness with anti-aging formula exfoliates
aging, a 24/7 Barrier Balance the signs of premature aging the use of several ingredients, the skin and diminishes the
Cream that balances the and UV exposure. It includes including phospholipids for appearance of fine lines.
82 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
the spa and wellness show
PRESENTED BY
LAS VEGAS
L AS V EG AS C O N V E N T I O N C E N T E R
CO-LOCAT ED WI T H
WOMEN * *
Lets celebrate
the industrys
leading ladies!
WELLNESS
in
American Spa presents an exciting
AWARDS new accolade that honors women
who are making a major impact.
Industry Icon
Innovator This award will honor a long-time
Rising Star
Here, well honor an inventor, formulator, spa leader who saw the potential This newcomer to the industry
or out-of-the-box thinker who has intro- of our industry and has influenced is making an impact with new,
duced a new method, idea, or product. its growth and success. cutting-edge, and exciting ideas.
Visionary Mentor
This spa leader inspires others with Whether an educator, the leader of a group
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Winners and finalists will be announced in the September issue.
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M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 87
SERVING DOUBLE DUT Y AS A GALLERY FOR LOCAL ARTISTS,
AN OCEAN-INSPIRED RESORT SPA DEBUTS ON THE EMER ALD COAST.
BY HE AT HER MIK ESELL
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 89
continued from page TK
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ARCHITECT
Cooper Carry (Atlanta)
INTERIOR DESIGNER
Christena K. Brostrom,
Kent Interior Design
(Atlanta) Spa-goers will find more art
to peruse in the lobby (pictured)
and pedicure area (above).
92 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
fresh FINDS
Check out these new
Fragrance- products that treat the face.
free BY NATALIE MANEVAL
1 2 3 4 5
COMPANY: Comfort Zone COMPANY: Clarins COMPANY: Guinot COMPANY: BelleCte Paris COMPANY: Natura Biss
PRODUCT: Remedy Serum PRODUCT: Hydra-Essentiel PRODUCT: Age Summum PRODUCT: Triple Stem Cell PRODUCT: Diamond Instant
is an intensive soothing activates the skins natural includes ATP-Actinergie, Mask is for all skin types. Glow consists of three
and fortifying formula. hydration and increases which provides energy It uses acai berry, Swiss different ampoules that
It is silicone-free, and skin lipid quantity using for younger looking skin, apple, and grape stem exfoliate, brighten, and
more than 90 percent organic leaf of life Cellular Life Complex cells along with other lift, creating the ideal
of the ingredients have extract, which is found in for skin regeneration, ingredients to rejuvenate surface for long-lasting
natural origins. www. a succulent plant. www. and vitamin C. www. and repair damaged cells. makeup application.
comfortzone.it clarinsusa.com guinotusa.com www.bellecoteparis.com www.naturabisse.com
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 95
freshFINDS
6 7 8
COMPANY: Repchage COMPANY: Woda COMPANY: Skinerals
PRODUCT: The Repchage Opti-Firm Lift Cream PRODUCT: Celebrity 24 Karat Gold Mask is PRODUCT: With a blend of natural oils and
reduces fine lines with biloba leaf extract, made with gold and is formulated to brighten, extracts, Diamond Age Defying Serum treats
ginkgo, and zinc oxide. It can be used daily hydrate, and plump. It also has vitamin C for wrinkles, helps retain moisture, and prevents
under makeup or alone. www.repechage.com the complexion. www.wodaskincare.com skin inflammation. www.skinerals.com
9 10 11
COMPANY: Valmont COMPANY: Amorepacific COMPANY: ESPA
PRODUCT: Prime Renewing Pack has a PRODUCT: The Time Response Vintage Wash- PRODUCT: The Tri-Active Advanced Instant
new limited-edition look. This cream mask Off Masque purifies skin with seven-day Facial actively targets the signs of aging with
smoothes the skin while also eliminating toxins fermented and aged green tea leaves, which hyaluronic acid to hydrate and white truffle
and impurities. www.boutiquevalmont.com act as antioxidants. www.amorepacific.com extract for elasticity. www.espaskincare.com
Non- 10
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11
96 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
June 3-5, 2017
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17
16
15
12 13 14
COMPANY: Timeless by Pevonia COMPANY: Ola Tropical Apothecary COMPANY: HydroPeptide
PRODUCT: Pro-Corrective Pore Minimizing PRODUCT: Pua Hibiscus Volcanic Mask draws PRODUCT: Nimni Creams collagen support
Serum tightens pores, brightens the skin, out impurities, cleanses, and improves the skin complex rejuvenates skin at the epigenetic
and hydrates it with gardenia flower and with aloe vera, noni fruit, and volcanic clay. level by turning on collagen-producing genes
polypeptides. www.timelessbypevonia.com www.hawaiianbodyproducts.com and feeding cells. www.hydropeptide.com
15 16 17
COMPANY: Nerd Skincare COMPANY: Abella Skin Care COMPANY: Derma E
PRODUCT: Time Postponing Cream nourishes PRODUCT: Cellution C consists of 12 percent PRODUCT: Nourishing Rose Cleansing Oil is
and repairs skin cells and addresses the vitamin C with l-ascorbic acid, which makes it made with argan oil, essential acids, jojoba
current signs of aging with Japanese possible to deliver more vitamin C to the skin. oils, and vitamin E. It dissolves away makeup
knotweed. www.nerdskincare.com www.abellaskincare.com and impurities. www.dermae.com
98 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
SPATEC SPRING SHOWCASE
skinade
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NEWSwellness updates from around the world
The new HQ
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M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 101
NEWS
NYC Spa Shuffle For Guerlain and Caudalie Spas Chuan Debuts at
Following the recent closing of Manhattans Waldorf Astoria Langham NYC
for renovations, the onsite Guerlain Spa has relocated to Langham Place, New York has
The Plaza New York. There, it has made its home in the unveiled the 4,000-square-
6,500-square-foot spa space formerly occupied by Caudalie foot Chuan Body + Soul, New
Vinothrapie Spa. Operated by Trilogy Spa Ventures, the York . Located on the hotels
new Guerlain Spa is currently in a soft-opening phase, fourth floor, the three-treatment-room spa features a lobby
with a full debut scheduled for fall. It features 11 treatment and contemplation area, mens and womens locker rooms
rooms, a relaxation lounge, and a boutique. A variety of with steam and sauna, and a fitness center with Technogym
signature services are available, each of which concludes equipment. The menu features a number of signature Chaun
with a Spa Au Revoir service inclusive of complimentary TCM services, HydraFacial MD treatments, and other skincare
shoe shine, garment steaming, and makeup refresher. offerings performed using Kerstin Florian products, including
A fitness area is currently under construction. As for two that will debut at this locationthe Kerstin Florian
Caudalie, it has opened its doors Signature Urban Facial ($225, 50 minutes; $305, 1 hour 20
on the Upper East Side as Spa minutes) and the Kerstin Florian Signature Urban Detox ($235,
Vinothrapie LAppartement 50 minutes; $315, 1 hour 20 minutes.) We have been extensively
Caudalie Spa on Madison planning our brands debut in New York City, says Amy
Avenue. Offering a variety of Chan, group spa therapy manager for Langham Hospitality
signature Caudalie services, it Group. This location has been designed to specifically meet
features four treatment rooms, the needs of New York spa-goers, with a variety of express
including a couples room, as well treatments for guests on the go and more elaborate offerings
as the brands French Paradox for those who wish to luxuriate in the Chuan experience, some
Wine Lounge. J.K.C. of which are unique to Chuan Body + Soul New York.J.K.C.
102 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
Lanesborough Launches Ritz-Carlton Spa Debuts in Budapest
London Wellness Club Located on the downtown hotels 8th floor, The Ritz-Carlton
Offering a 360-degree approach Spa , Budapest offers a variety of enticing amenities, including
to wellbeing for its members, a steam room, a sauna, and a unique glass-enclosed pool
the private 18,000-square-foot as well as a 24-hour fitness center. ESPA created a variety of
Lanesborough Club & Spa the two-treatment-room spas signature services, including
(London), part of the Oetker Serenity on the Danube ($149, 1 hour 40 minutes) and The
Collection, features sophisticated Royal Palace Ritual ($194, 2 hours 10 minutes). We are
decor and a variety of wellness dedicated to creating something unique and special in our
offerings. Visitors are guided through the experience by spa hotels around the world, and our new spa represents this
butlers who help cater to their needs. Highlights include approach perfectly, says general manager Nicolas A. Kipper.
high-tech fitness facilities and workout offerings; healthy It offers a welcoming retreat from
dining options featuring clean and lean meals; and an the outside world, connected by
elegant five-treatment-room spa that includes a hydrotherapy a total sensory experience. We
pool, thermal suites, a luxe relaxation area, and a number believe that this combination will
of signature services performed using ila and La Prairie make it an attractive spot for all
products as well as services created by renowned facial and who would like to experience the
beauty expert Anastasia Achilleos.J.K.C. ultimate spa moment.J.K.C.
NYC Beauty Studio Taps Into Trends Modern Spa Comes to Life in
Multitasking Manhattanites will love MB45, a Tribeca Former French Crypt
beauty stop that specializes in 45-minute concurrent Located underground in an updated
blowouts and manicures. Created by Fernanda Lacerda former crypt in Mcon, France,
and Manuela Giannini, who plan to franchise, MB45 was AtriumSpa & Beaut opened to
designed to look like a photo studio and features services rave reviews. Concepted by Italian
ranging from $65 to $75, including a blowout, braid, or spa designer Alberto Apostoli, the
updo with a gel or polish manicure. Additional services two-level retreat features a variety of
range from $80 to $135 and can include makeup. "We saw state-of-the-art modern amenities,
a need for a cool, efficient beauty experience focused on including a glass-enclosed wet area with a Finnish sauna and
technique, design, and a steam bath, an integrated LED lighting system, an enticing
customer service," relaxation area, and more. What is especially satisfying in the
says Lacerda. Adds result is the mix of pre-existing stone and contemporary materials,
Giannini, This is a managed through a thoughtful creative process, says Apostoli.
city woman's beauty The owners trusted us entirely in our thinking, and this led to a
bar, inspired by urban major achievement from the point of view of consistency in both
street style and the style and technology. Which goes to show that even in small
fast pace of New York projects, with due attention and richness, considerable results
City.J.K.C. can be achieved in terms of creativity and wellbeing.J.K.C.
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 103
NEWS
Lodge Kohler updates that include a new 3,000- Silver Rock Resort
Green Bay, WI | July 2017 square-foot, four-treatment-room spa. La Quinta, CA | Late 2019
Located across the street from The two-story facility will also include Montage International and The Robert
Lambeau Field, home of the Packers, a fitness center and locker rooms as Green Company will be developing the
the 124-room hotel will feature an indoor well as a heated outdoor pool. SilverRock Resort, which will include
pool, an enhanced fitness facility, and Montage La Quinta with branded
a full-service Kohler Waters Spa among Hilton Medellin Montage Residences, Pendry La Quinta
its many amenities. Columbia | Mid-2019 with branded Pendry Residences, Spa
Located in the city's upscale El Poblado Montage, a catering and conference
The Inn At Willow Grove neighborhood, the multi-million-dollar, facility, a state-of-the-art recreation center,
Orange, VA | August 2017 25-story, 206-room project will feature multiple food and beverage outlets, a
Following a $2 million renovation, the an outdoor pool and whirlpool, a fitness mixed-use village, and an 18-hole Arnold
charming inn will debut a series of center, and a spa facility and beauty salon. Palmer Signature Golf Course.J.K.C.
104 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
CANYON RANCH FOUNDERS RETIRE
Pioneers of the wellness destination concept, Canyon Ranch (multiple locations) founders Melvin
and Enid Zuckerman and Jerrold Cohen have retired from the legacy brand after nearly 40 years.
Remaining at the companys helm will be CEO Susan Docherty, who was appointed in 2015. I wish to
personally thank Mel, Enid, and Jerry for their inspiring commitment and our successful partnership,
which dates back to 1996, says John C. Goff, chairman and CEO of Crescent Real Estate Holdings,
owner of Canyon Ranch. Their vision of transformation through holistic wellness has had a profound
effect on tens-of-thousands of lives, including my own, and I wish them a fulfilling retirement embodying the Canyon Ranch
lifestyle they created. I am confident that our CEO, Susan Docherty, along with her new executive leadership team, are
poised to pay homage to the founders promise and enliven the Canyon Ranch narrative for decades to come.JENNIFER NIED
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 105
NEWS
EVENTS
The Spa Buzz
May 1-2 | Charleston, SC
www.thespabuzz.com
Spatec Spring
May 8-11 | Palm Beach, FL
www.spatecevents.com
SIBEC UK
May 24-25 | Midlands, UK
www.sibecevents.com
M AY 2 017 A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M | 107
NEWS
Synergie Skins
Clean Science
combines the best of botanicals with
cosmeceutical science to protect, change,
and nurture all skinwhile being
free from potentially harmful ingredients.
(ISSN# 1523-486X) is published monthly (12 issues per year) by Questex LLC, 757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017. One-year subscription rates: $40 in the United States & Possessions; $66
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SEPTEMBER 30 & OCTOBER 1, 2017
112 | A M E R I C A N S PA . C O M M AY 2 017
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