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IDF M109A1 Rochev M36/M36B2 US Army Battle of FWD Model B 3-ton & BL 8-inch
N
N
N
PKAF35272 the Bulge PKAY13501 Howitzer Mk VI PKROD713
I:35 I:35
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O ING
EW
EW
N
WWII German Super Heavy Tank
SO M
Tiran-4 IDF Medium Tank British APC FV432 Mk 2/1 with
O
N
N
Maus V2 PKTAK02050 interior PKTAK02066
C
PKTAK02051
I:I6 I:I6
I:35
O ING
O ING
EW
N
N
SO M
SO M
US Medium Tank M47E/M 2 in 1 Russian T-72B MBT US M1A1 Abrams AIM MBT
O
O
N
PKTM00926
C
C
PKTAK02072 PKTM00924
O ING
EW
Russian 9P140 TEL of 9K57 Uragan (Iraqi Regular Army) Soviet JS-2M Heavy Tank Late
O
N
EW
AT-T Artillery Prime Mover Ukrainian T-84 MBT Grille 30-30.5cm (GrW) L/16
IN N
N
RP
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Contents 10
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EDITORIAL
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Email: contribeditor@militarymodelling.com
10 The finest tank in the world
Ivan Momcilovic Momcha presents his 1/35 ICM T-34/76
PRODUCTION (early 1943 production)
Designer: Richard Dyer
Illustrator: Grahame Chambers
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16 The Hunting Panther
The Dragon 1/35 Sd.Kfz 173 Jagdpanther Smart Kit (6393) by Andy King
26
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Stand Easy...
W
elcome to Military Modelling
40 Volume 47, Issue 5 which is
already my thirteenth issue!
36 The Engineer Volunteers of 1859-1908 Twelve months-worth of mags have come
Part 2 Counties D to H by Ray Westlake and gone in the blink of an eye and I only
now feel like Im getting the hang of where
40 Hooker Nose Art we should be going. As I said when I took
Canadian CH-147D Chinook Nose Art in Afghanistan by Ed Storey over, this was intended to be a period of
experimentation some new subjects
46 Fordin the Water! were introduced, some old subjects were
Ford Truck, Amphibian, re-introduced and these changes were
GPA, 1/4 ton, 4x4 combined with a different internal layout
by Mark Bannerman all of which should, by now, be presenting
the reader with an increased range of
subjects. The latter, in part, has been
achieved by being more open minded with
regard to what the contributor has to offer
and I have really enjoyed introducing new
people into the magazine not to mention a
few returners I hope that this course will
46 continue in both cases. Generally, I think
these changes which in my humble opinion
52 were not particularly radical, have been well
received by the readership and I thank you
all for your support and general feedback;
even the few constructively critical ones!
52 Lets design a drum!
Marcel Von Hobe steers us through MM4705 continues this approach
the wonderful world of 3D printing and this issue sees four more new
contributors in the shape of Andy King,
Keith Sharples, Ed Storey and Marcel
Regular Features Van Hobe. The cross section of subjects
from these four alone sums up what
we are trying to achieve and Im sure,
5 Stand Easy like me, you will glean new information
A message from the Contributing Editor and expand your knowledge of this vast
subject. From out of the box builds to
58 MAFVA a piece of superb figure modelling, an
Regimental Museums by Chairman Jon Ham incredible scratch build, to modelling
using recycling, a look at the world of
60 On Parade 3D printing through to military history
Recommended books for military modellers sections from the Victorian period to the
recent conflict in Afghanistan, once more
62 Atten-Shun! Military Modelling has a little something
Products review section for everyone.
Cover Story...
has a vibrant forum covering every conceivable
modelling subject.
MAIN IMAGE: 1/35 ICM T-34/76 by Ivan Momcilovic Momcha Carry On!
www.militarymodelling.com 5
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Ivan Momcilovic Momcha presents his 1/35 ICM T-34/76 (early 1943 production)
Effective, efficient and influential
At its introduction, The T-34 was a Soviet medium tank that had a
profound and lasting effect in the field of tank design.
1
the T-34 possessed Although its armour and armament were surpassed
later in the war, it has been often credited as the
an unprecedented
most effective, efficient and influential tank design
Model
ICM have made a very nice model with their new
T-34/76 (early 1943 production). The detail and
casting is well done and construction will not
take too much of your time. There are some parts
that could be replaced, to make the kit more
authentic. Some aftermarket companies already
offered various solutions in resin plastic, but it
will also look nice if you build it out of the box.
I started with the turret. It is detailed from
the start but my idea was to add to it. Firstly, I
have added numbers that I cut from some old
sprues and glued them using Testors liquid glue
for models. Numbers on the turrets were often
seen on Russian WWII tanks, so these details
were more than welcome. Next I made some
damage details using a soldering iron. I was
careful when I was doing this not to damage
and melt more plastic than I wanted (Photo 1).
Then I used Mr. Surfacer 500 and a brush to
produce texturing around the effects that I had
already made (Photo 2). When I finished with all
the detailing it was time for priming using the
Black and White technique. Firstly, I
airbrushed grey primer as a neutral
shade (Photo 3). After I had waited
for few hours, I airbrushed Dark Grey
shades on the places where less light
and more dirt can be seen (Photo 4).
After a few hours I added a final shade;
white on the parts where the vehicle is
exposed to the light (Photo 5). The reason why
I was waiting for few hours between shades
is that the primer, even when it`s dry, can 3
produce a chemical reaction when mixing
it with a new layer and shades can be
lighter or darker than you really want
them. So it is best if you wait
for a few hours for primer to
be completely dry. After
priming it was time for
final detailing before I
added camouflage. Using a
fine brush and white paint I
highlight some details on
the model like screws,
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In October 1942 responsibility for the design something to somebody somewhere, however
of the new vehicle was handed over to Daimler unless you are modelling a particular vehicle with
Benz as production was due to start in their plant the wheels off (maintenance, knocked-out etc.) you
in 1943, although Krupp was still to assist with the cant see this detail.
project, completing a full-scale wooden mock-up The torsion bars can be made to work like the
in November 1942. Muehlenbau und Industrie AG real thing, just insert the swing arms through the
(MIAG) also became involved with the project after hull and glue the ends with cyano. This is useful for
advising Krupp about a couple of details (which goes dioramas where you need to pose the suspension.
to show you should never volunteer for anything), I jumped well ahead of the instructions and fitted
becoming responsible for making the vehicle. the tracks at this point however the fit of the track-
With all design work finished, production started in links is very tight around the sprocket, something to
1943 with the first five machines ready in January 1944 beware of if you like to fit your tracks after painting.
for Waffenamt inspectors. Because of those pesky The actual assembly of the tracks is a breeze as
Allied air raids, production of the Jagdpanther at the the fit of the links are really good. The only problem
MIAG plant remained at a low rate so contracts were being I was three links short. Fortunately the spare
awarded to MNH and MBA to help increase it. links on sprue E came to the rescue. I dry-fitted the
The first unit to get their hands on the wheels to the axles then glued the tracks to the
Jagdpanther was the 654th Schwere Panzerjager
Abteilung who had traded in their Ferdinands for the
new model as early as August 1943. Issued with
orders to gear up as a Jagdpanther unit, Panthers
were used for driver training due to production
delays. The new vehicles finally arrived by train in
May 1944, going into combat two months later
against Allied forces in Normandy.
The Model
Dragon billed this as a late-production Smart Kit
however its not that smart as its a mid-production
G1, the late production model being a G2. All the
parts are virtually flash-free and require very little
clean up and speaking of parts there are LOTS
in the box, mostly from other Panther kits so the
spares box will benefit hugely. No metal barrel is
supplied, just a one-piece moulded item so well
have to see how we get along with it. At least
therell be no awkward seam to get rid of.
The level of detail on the outside is great and
nicely rendered such as the torch-cut marks on the
ends of plates and weld seams. However there
is very little interior detail apart from a basic gun
breech which is a bit disappointing, especially
if you want that big rear hatch open. There are
a few choices to be made detail-wise so check
your references as to which particular bit goes on
which particular vehicle. You have no less than ten
painting options; three from Schwere Panzer Jaeger
Abteilung 654, one from s.H.Pz.Jg. Abteilung 560
ABOVE: These pics show the track fitment. The fit of the track links around the sprocket is very tight
in the Ardennes region 1944, one from Panzer Lehr and something to be aware of if you like to fit your tracks after painting. BELOW: The way those fan
Regiment 130 and the rest from unidentified units. inserts SHOULD fit.
The model I wanted to build was from Abteilung
654 number 212, as featured in the Gunpower book.
Now this unit usually put all the on-vehicle equipment
at the rear of the vehicle and added a stowage box
to the rear of the upper hull. However this particular
vehicle, according to my references, still had the
factory fitted tool storage racks on the side of the hull
and no stowage box so that will do for me, besides
its painted up in a pretty camouflage scheme.
Construction
The hull is the first bit to attack so I cleaned up
and assembled the wheels then fitted the torsion
bars. The level of detail Dragon has incorporated
on the lower hull is something else and believe it
or not you have a choice of rear swing arms and
suspension bump stops. Obviously this all means
www.militarymodelling.com 17
AFV The tracks finally fitted.
wheels, 86 links on the left and 85 on the right. Having looked at the kit barrel and compared it with
When completely set these assemblies were web pics of RB Models nice and shiny replacement
removed to aid painting later on. item, one magically appeared in my online shopping
The upper and rear hull is next and one of the cart and by the power of Visa turned up in the post
I gave the inside of the periscopes features of the particular vehicle Im modelling is the a few days later. The kit item is OK but those metal
a coat of Tamiya Clear Green to
represent heavy duty glass. Flammenvernichter exhaust stacks with the smaller barrels are much sexier, especially with the detailing
air intake pipes on one side. Aftermarket items are inside the muzzle brake.
available, however there are enough parts in the kit to The upper hull moulding is a bit too smooth and
chop about to make them. perfect for my liking so working in small areas I liberally
The fans and radiator inserts that sit below the rear applied liquid glue to the flat surfaces and while the
deck need to be assembled thus; H18 and N7, H17 and glue was still wet I stippled the areas with a hard nylon
N6 then turned 180 to that shown in the instructions paint brush, the type you see in cheapo art stores.
(bless you Dragon, you had to try and catch me out When Id finished covering the hull it was left to harden
with something). for a couple of days then sanded using fine wet and
You have a choice of two roofs, so check your dry. This technique gives a fairly convincing textured
references as to which one is applicable to the armour plate effect without going over the top as
vehicle you are building. For my model I required German armour was relatively smooth, due to it being
part N5 so this was detailed then fixed to the hull. I rolled in the steel mills rather than cast.
did this by using liquid glue initially then followed up Time to stick the thing together and this gave me a
with cyano glue. bit of a trouble as the upper and lower hull parts didnt
Because I was using the Voyager etch track quite fit and needed a bit of chopping around
guards, the holes in the hull for the kit items inside at the front. Again to make a strong
were filled in and sanded as the side skirt joint I first used liquid glue followed up
mounting brackets are in different places, with thin cyano; the same where the
probably because the etch set I was upper hull joined the rear plate.
The modification to the track guards using was originally designed for the With the hull firmly set I used
needed for the etch replacement. Tamiya kit. the majority of kit parts to finish the
ABOVE LEFT: The kit supplied engine deck mesh. ABOVE RIGHT: A combination of liquid glue and a stiff nylon brush is used to try and replicate the armour plate texture.
BELOW LEFT: The end result - a subtle texture is achieved rather than smooth plastic. BELOW RIGHT: A close up of the foliage tie down loops added from copper wire.
AFV
Painting
After giving the model a rinse in warm water and
washing up liquid, it was left to dry then it got
a coat of Games Workshop Chaos Black primer.
Humbrol Matt 94 Brown Yellow enamel (yes
enamel, remember that?) was used for a base coat,
lightened with White 34 for the upper surfaces.
The camo pattern was marked out with a pencil,
carefully following the illustrations in the Gunpower
book. The red brown (Humbrol 186) and green
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AFV
ABOVE LEFT: A good coat of Tamiya X-22 Clear followed by Johnsons Future makes a great base for decals. A good tip is before you place a decal on your model; wet the
area with Future first. This avoids tiny air bubbles getting underneath the decal and causing silvering. ABOVE RIGHT: Washes and filters.
Weathering
First off a couple of coats of dark yellow Sin
Industries Filter were brushed over the model to
help tone down the base colours. Using a fine
brush, Migs Dark Brown Wash was run into all the
recesses, corners and panel lines to add some
definition to the model.
To flatten it all down I sprayed matt acrylic
varnish overall before proceeding with the next
stages of weathering.
www.militarymodelling.com 21
Figures
Bayonets at
of various heads and I was ready to add some
putty. With enthusiasm at an all-time high, I started
modifying the head. This particular one was an old
Hornet head, sculpted by Roger Saunders in the
Hougoumont
last millennia. It was cast in white metal which
shows how old it is. It has a wonderfully grumpy
expression that I have liked for years. Occasionally,
I get out my collection of Hornet heads, just to
admire the craftsmanship. I did remove the eyes
as the details were a bit smooth for my liking. I
re-sculpted the eye sockets and eyebrows using a
54mm Private Private Centre Company
having it back when this figure was started. It was I took them to my friend Martyn Dorey of Model
and many aspects of back in April and I had just got home from Sword
and Lance 2016. I met Bill Horan at that show and,
Display Products and he cast these items for me. He
did curse a number of times over the delicate nature
it remain a mystery after watching his demonstration then subsequently of the bayonets but he is a professional grumbler, so
having a very nice chat with the Grand Master I was I think he does enjoy it really.
to this day. sufficiently inspired to get sculpting. Having a collection of equipment should help me in
The Battle of Waterloo is so iconic that many the future should I decide to do a vignette or a diorama.
aspects of the battle never fail to raise my interest. It would be a little odd if they were all carrying different
The plight of the Coldstream Guards at Hougoumont sized equipment. So I would urge anyone who is into
is an amazing story. The battle within the battle at the sculpting to make some masters for themselves and
Accentuating joints
When sculpting the folds of clothes it is always 2
worth remembering to accentuate the knees, hips,
elbows and shoulders. These are the landmarks
that the material is pulled from and therefore they
have the most influence over the directions of the
folds. I like to think of them as the anchor points
and the pull points which create a pull direction.
The anchor point of the hips is generally in the
crotch, and the pull point is the top point of the
knee cap. This pull point extends up the thigh back
towards the hip, and therefore this is the general
pull direction that the folds form in. If you draw
a line from crotch to knee, that is fold one. Fold
two will be from crotch to mid-thigh. Fold three
is then from crotch to the top of the thigh. This is
nearly symmetrical on the outside of the thigh from
backside to knee. The same can be said regarding
the arm pit and the elbow. The difficulty comes
when adding the extra cloth folds. These can be
seen on Photo 2 across the fronts of the hips
where the hip joint has caused a series of folds
by the nature of its bent position. These folds will
also appear in the backs of the knees. They will
not run perpendicular to the other folds but will
cast them or take them to a friend at your local club to gradually fan out towards or away from them, with
see if they can cast them for you. It really speeds up subtle arcs and changes in direction of the folds
the figure making process. determined by the position of the limb in relation to
The musket did require some extra attention. I the anchor points and the pull points.
added some fine details to the master copy and, When I am in doubt on the anchor point or pull
to show them off at their best it is always a good point any of the folds, I tend to pose in the middle
idea to sharpen up some of the details with a hobby of the lounge. I adopt the position of the figure and 3
knife, such as thinning down the trigger guard or then look at my own trousers to see where the
other parts of the mechanism. This sort of attention folds should be and the pull direction of the folds. I
to detail is always sensible on any figure you do, be then go back to the figure and try to replicate these.
it scoring down the edge of a belt or hollowing out
the end of a gun barrel with a tiny drill bit. This will
help with keeping the part in scale and therefore the Rolling out the putty
realism will be improved. It will also make the piece What do you do with old putty that you havent
much easier to paint. used? I frequently get asked this question. I do
Each piece of equipment is offered up to the have a mangled blob on my desk that will eventually
figure and regularly blue-tacked in place, just to become a bust. I stick unused pieces of putty on
make sure they look correct with the pose. There this that are still soft and workable. The putty that
is nothing worse than a nicely posed figure in a has partially cured and hasnt got tidied away I tend
combative stance, in that looks like he is about to roll out with a hobby knife I use as a rolling pin.
to fall over backwards once youve glued all of his The putty has lost its stickiness by this point and
equipment to his back. so doesnt stick to the rolling pin. If it does stick I
liberally coat the rolling pin with fluid before rolling it
again (I lick it!). Saliva seems to have very good non-
Bottoms up stick properties, so I use this method on all of my
I sculpt figures from the bottom up. Well, almost. sculpting tools to prevent the putty sticking to them.
My first job is always to start with the head and When the putty is rolled out in this manner you
the pose. When I clothe the figure though, it does can get it to an extremely thin sheet. The thinner
tend to be from the shoes upwards. Subsequent the better really. This does not have to be used
layers tend to go over the previous layers using immediately. I put mine in a plastic bag and then put
this method, so I try to leave off any details that it in the freezer. The bag I use is see-through so it is
cant be seen, like the tops of the gaiters for not mistaken for any foodstuff. The freezer retards
example (Photo 1). The buttons were made using the curing time of the putty, so that when it is
a punch and die set. They were punched from retrieved and thawed, it is still malleable. The putty
the sheet metal you get around the tops of wine does go off, so eventually it will not be workable or
bottles. I scrape the coloured surface off first, then sticky again, but it does seem to remain malleable
roll it flat with the handle of a hobby knife. These enough to create cross-belts or, in this case, coat
buttons come out so small though that they are tails and collars (Photo 3). I have a paper template
easily lost when in plain sight. I try to collect them for these parts of the clothing, along with cuffs,
all together on a white sheet of paper before they turned down boots and epaulettes. When the putty
all get tidied away. However, this does not save has cured completely then the edges can be made
them from the tickle in the nose that causes a good by sanding them down as necessary.
ferocious sneeze and sends them all scattering in Cross belts can also be rolled out from neat Duro.
every direction. Once its cured it can then be cut to shape and
www.militarymodelling.com 23
Figures
4 6
www.militarymodelling.com 25
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Scratch one
Inspired by Military Modelling, Keith Sharples presents his scratchbuilt Mk.IV
Introduction
I first started model making as a young lad in the
mid/ late 60s of the last century. On a Saturday
morning, I would be given my spending money,
a half crown (by this time we had stopped using
groats or barter) now 12 new pence, from Dad.
I would walk into the small Yorkshire market town
Bow shot of the finished vehicle. where I lived and buy a kit, usually in 1/72, because
The turrets rotate and the Q/F it was the cheapest. Planes, tanks, trucks etc.
guns move up and down.
anything was fair game to me. By six that evening,
it would be built, complete with an immaculate
finishing coat of gluey finger prints and no paint.
Then I grew up, or at least I think I might have.
Married, got kids, renovated a house then, after
30 years when I had just got the house finished
to our liking, we found that we disliked each other
so much that we divorced and I started again. I
got remarried to a wonderful woman and then
rediscovered the pleasure of the hobby. Or, more
to the point, re-established my plastic addiction.
Being a mature returnee to the modelling
world was a real eye opener for me, what with
the introduction of air brushes and weathering
techniques and such. I built a couple of WW1 figures/
dioramas. I then bought some tank kits with the idea
to build at least one 1/35 unit from each manufacturer.
But just building an empty shell didnt cut it for me, so I
built the engines, transmissions, gun breech and other
interior detailing.
Then my first attempt at a scratch build was
a 1/35 truck, a Guy Big J 4t chassis cab tractor
unit. All I purchased was the wheels and I was so
pleased with the final results that I decided to go
for the WW1 Mk.IV Male.
ABOVE LEFT: Initial 1/35 scale plans from the net used for this build. ABOVE RIGHT: The two inner and outer track carrier side plates cut and clamped with small bolts to
facilitate accurate drilling and sanding.
ABOVE LEFT: L/H track carrier assembled with the R/H one to be built. Note the door aperture on the unmade inner track plate to enable access to the drivers position.
Mk.IV Male
ABOVE RIGHT: L/H outer track carrier detailing has begun using flat bar, L section, sheet and cut disks. Also note the armour panels are scribed.
Starting the build shape. The holes for 26 rollers for each side were ABOVE LEFT: Test fitting of the
sponsons and floor pan.
My inspiration for this project was the feature on the also drilled, so they are all in the same place on
WW1 German A7V in the June 2015 edition of this each side. I cut the idlers and sprockets from flat ABOVE RIGHT: The turret apertures in
publication. I spent a year thinking about it, built the card, as they wont be seen due to the tracks added both sponsons were cut too large as
can be seen here ooops.
truck to experiment, then in June this year (2016) spacers made from sprue tree to keep them central
read the feature on the British WW1 Mk.1 H.M.L.S to support the tracks. The 52 rollers are made from
Kia-Ora, and thought I should be able to scratch-build 8mm round bar and spacers, the detail of which will
one myself, but at the same time, detail the interior also be covered by the tracks.
as in the A7V model in the earlier edition. The tracks clipped together very easily and I
So I bought a set of 1/35 resin tracks from the installed them to get a better picture of the build,
net, found a set of scale plans for an Mk.IV Male, then began the detailing of the vehicles outer
printed off some images of vehicles, power plant, walls using flat and round bar, L and C section
transmission etc. I purchased the plasti-card and
various profiles and away I went. LEFT: The Q/F guns were a small model
I started the build by tracing out onto plasti-card in their own right. The small tube at the
top is the sighting tube with eye rest.
two outer walls of the track carriers then the two
inner walls, cutting them out and clamping them
together to drill out the required holes for the drive
sprocket and idler wheels. At this point, I also
sanded all four sides to achieve an even uniform
www.militarymodelling.com 27
AFV
ABOVE LEFT: Front glacis with vision ports and armoured port closers. ABOVE RIGHT: Roof supports in place. BELOW LEFT: Again the engine is a model in its own right. This image
shows the basic engine and the picture I used for the build. BELOW RIGHT: Here the track carrier floor is installed to cover the two rollers. Also that gem of an engine.
ABOVE: Ensuring the engine fitted profile. The D shackles to the rear and bow section
and looked right. Note on the roof
is a red plastic disk and shaft. This is are shaped copper wire. Rivet detail is all hand
the beginnings of the transmission painted using Mr. Surfacer 500. I built the two gun
fabrication. sponsons from flat card, the Q/F and Lewis guns
RIGHT: Inlet and exhaust manifolds are are made from various profile types. The curved
installed, as is the electrical conduit for armour plate on the front of the Q/F guns is plunge
the spark plug leads from the distributor.
moulded plasti-card. Turrets are made from 22mm
waste pipe as used for toilet cistern overflow pipe,
(New pipe, that is), sourced from my local DIY store.
Disks of plasti-card are glued to the top roof of the 4mm L section profile for roof support, made the
sponsons to keep the turrets in situ as they turn. seats from window board and the steering levers
I then built the floor pan and bow glacis plates from copper wire and sprue for the handles; the
with the front face of the cab and attached c/w pedals and cab floor are off cuts of plasti-card.
vision covers. I added square frames of 4mm x
ABOVE LEFT: The yellow flywheel at the rear of the engine is a plastic bottle cap filled with Milliput. Also the transmission is now fleshed out with the putty.
ABOVE RIGHT: Engine painted showing oil pump and tank, distributor and fuel lift pump.
ABOVE LEFT: It looks better for paint. ABOVE RIGHT: Remember that Ooops on the sponson aperture. Here it is repaired; also a scratch Lewis gun.
ABOVE LEFT: Cab floor, seats and control levers. ABOVE RIGHT: Remember that sighting tube, it lines up with the small vertical hole on the turret. Q/F guns painted and
two scratch Lewis guns in the background.
density uPVC plastic foam which is easy to cut, trim, hole in the centre and inserted some rod the same
sand and shape and can be glued with CA or liquid/ width of the tank body and cut a piece of flat card
gel poly glue. It also takes the fillers and paints we to mimic the outer shape/profile of the differential.
use extremely well and has the thickness of profile I cut a groove in the plasti-card, slotted the disk
we need to fabricate larger items like engine blocks, through and glued it in place. Then I added a hub at
radiators, etc. I dont think you can buy 10 or 12mm each end to define the final width of the differential
thick plasti-card and even if you could, it would be drive. The shaped flat card serves three purposes,
50 to 70 per A4 sheet. The six cylinders are 8mm 1: to stiffen the Milliput for handling purposes, 2:
round bar and the detailing is from flat, round and to provide the required profile from a top down
square bar. The taper of the crank case at the four view and 3: imitate the flange where the upper and
mounting points is achieved using Squadron Putty. lower halves would be bolted together enclosing
The exhaust and inlet manifolds are sprue-tree from the Crown Wheel and Pinion gears and the half
other kits. The front damper is made from disks shaft to the final drive gears. So we now have the
cut from plasti-card and the rear crank housing is width, height and diameter of the main part of the
fashioned from Milliput All items primed by brush differential drive unit.
with Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill any unwanted gaps, The Standard Milliput epoxy putty was used
then the crankcase is air-brushed with Tamiya XF58 to flesh out the final shape because it can be
Olive Green, the inlet manifold brushed with Revell moulded, filed, drilled, sanded and carved when ABOVE: A more detailed image of the
99 aqua Aluminium, the exhaust dabbed with Mr. cured. Now I have a differential drive that mimics inside of a turret and Lewis guns.
Surfacer 500 for the texture of rust and brushed with not only the shape, profile and size of the real life
Revell Enamel 83 Rust, Leather 84 and Revell Aqua item but also the texture of cast iron, which the
36 Carmine Red then dabbed with a short bristled casing would be made from. The point of the red
brush to imitate rust. plastic disk is that, when shaping and smoothing
The transmission was made by first cutting a the Milliput, the red plastic of the disk was instantly
disk of red plastic from a milk bottle cap. I drilled a visible. Two lifting eyes were fabricated from copper
www.militarymodelling.com 29
AFV
The end
So there she/he is. The only item that was
purchased pre-formed was the resin tracks, every
other part of this build is fabricated out of modellers
profile and plasti-card from Dorspring Models and I think I should have
general, everyday household items. She may not dirtied the underside of
the raised drivers escape
portray an actual machine as such, she may not hatch and engine cover.
carry every rivet and bolt head or nut of an original But hey hoShe is finished.
www.militarymodelling.com 31
Diorama
1
2
4 5
6 7
Before I discovered Copydex, Id tried using such as Flemish bond, youd need two presses
polystyrene glue to join pieces of expanded (Photos 6 and 7).
polystyrene together but the results were disastrous I personally prefer to scribe the bricks, though it
because the glue actually melted the surface. can be quite fiddly and hard to keep track of exactly
However, if you want to inflict heavy damage on where youre up to, so there are a couple of ways to
your poor old bunker, polystyrene glue is perfect! make life a bit easier:
Be careful, though, and only smear on a very small Shine a light at a low angle over the surface to
amount at a time. This is how the damage was done highlight the shadows of where youve already
in the photographs. (Photo 3) Another technique is scribed. If youre right-handed, put the light on the
to dribble small separate drops of the glue, without left so youre not working in your own shadow.
spreading it, to look like the sort of damage that Paint the areas to be scribed lightly before you
might be caused by heavy machine gun bullets. start so that the scriber scratches the paint off,
Finally, as with the garage, I gently rubbed a soft again making it easy to keep track of what youve
pencil over the surface to weather it (Photo 4 & 5). done. Painting the bricks first also acts as a keep
off sign for unpainted areas such as lintels or
cornerstones. This is one time when I might use a
Brickwork transparent plastic ruler rather than a steel one, so I
This can be scribed in the same way as stone, as can see whats below.
discussed in the earlier article, though it can get Dont forget to scribe the insides of any reveals
very fiddly and if you model in a small scale or such as door or window openings. Ive actually
want a large expanse of brickwork, it probably isnt found it surprisingly difficult to scribe a neat straight
worth the risk of losing both your eyesight and your line in reveals, so I use the blunt side of a blade
sanity! However, for small patches, or if you want to pressed into the surface. The effect of the courses
simulate damaged bricks, its worth a try. going round the corners is particularly pleasing.
There are two possible techniques for marking Whether you emboss or scribe the bricks, its
out the bricks. The first is to use a small embossing definitely worth adding mortar and the finished
press made from rectangular Plastruct tube or effect is very realistic. Once the paint has
similar or the end of a small paintbrush with the thoroughly dried, rub some runny filler, tinged with
bristles removed, squeezed with pliers to get the grey, over the whole surface, then immediately
right rectangular shape. Ive seen some excellent wipe it off. The texture of the mortar courses is
results and it can work well if you want a wall much more like the real thing than if you use paint.
showing only stretcher bricks. However, if you Dont worry if traces of filler stay on the brick
wanted to model a bond made up of headers too, surfaces, as it dulls down the colours and help give
www.militarymodelling.com 33
Diorama
8 9
12
34
Diorama
12 14
Conclusion
In all modelling, theres a balance between the final
result and the amount of time, money and skill at
the modellers disposal. This article has tried to
show that pizza bases etc. are not only free but
also have properties that make them very easy to
work with without compromising results. However,
even I have to admit that the material isnt suitable
for all modelling and hopefully a further article will
describe how to use it in conjunction with other
materials to make realistic-looking buildings.
www.militarymodelling.com 35
History
Durham (20)
Jarrow, on the south bank of the Tyne Charles
Palmers shipbuilding yard employed some 80%
of the towns Victorian and Edwardian workforce.
Others made a living from local collieries, marine
engineering and chemical works. The 1st Durham
EVC was formed at Jarrow on March 28, 1868
and had attached to it in January of the following
Essex (15)
Heybridge is a large village situated in the Maldon
district of east Essex on the north side of the
Blackwater. Here is the mainly Norman St Andrews
Church, its massive squat tower supported by a 16th
Century brick buttress. Close by, on the canal bank near
the corner of Hall Road and Heybridge Street, stood
the works of E H Bentall & Co which gave employment
to some 600-700 local people in its manufacture of ABOVE: Engineer Volunteer officer thought to have been of
agricultural implements and machinery. Perhaps a good the 1st Gloucestershire EVC.
number of themtheir engineering skills would have RIGHT: Sapper, 1st Gloucestershire Engineer Volunteer
been numerousenrolled in the 1st Essex EVC whose Corps c1895 (Courtesy of Major R McDuell)
first officers were gazetted on December 24, 1861. The
corps, however, was disbanded in 1871 and was not Buckley. A well populated town where the
shown in the Army List after June of that year. production of course earthenware, firebricks and tiles
provided employment for many. In 1879 the word
Buckley even appeared as part of the official title of the
Flintshire (18) corps. Yet another change, this time in its attachment
Hope, just over five miles from Wrexham and from 1st Lancashire to 1st Cheshire EVC, took place in
situated on both sides of the Alyn, is the first 1897 an association which took the Buckley engineers
headquarters recorded for the 1st Flintshire EVC. through to March 1908 and disbandment.
Of one company, the corps was formed on May 19,
1863 and was at first placed under the care of the
1st Admin. Battalion of Flintshire Rifle Volunteers. Glamorgan (14)
But there would be, by November 1863, a transfer Formed on December 31, 1861, the 1st Glamorgan
to a more suited engineer admin formation, the 1st EVC had its headquarters at Dowlas where, close
Lancashire. Hope was also known by other names: to Merthyr Tydfil, the Dowlais Iron Company is said
Estyn, and sometimes Queens Hope after Queen to have employed some 10,000 in its production of
Eleanor who lodged in the village while on her way iron, tin bars, rails and other steel items. Attachment
to Carnarvon with Edward I. But Buckley, just to was to the 2nd Glamorgan Rifle Volunteers until June
the north-west, appears to have been preferred to 1864 when a transfer was made to the countys
Hope and subsequently, in November 1869 and just 2nd Rifle Admin Battalion. Never a strong corps, 1st
three years after the railway had reached the town, Glamorgan EVC was disbanded in 1871 and was last
headquarters were moved. shown in the Army List for October of that year.
www.militarymodelling.com 37
History
www.militarymodelling.com 39
Aviation
Delivery of the first CH-147F Chinook was on July Canadian tail No. US D model US C model US B model US A model
5, 2013 with the final aircraft being received ahead
of schedule on June 30, 2014. To fly these new
Chinooks, 450 Squadron, based in CFB Petawawa, 147201 68-16017
was reactivated on May 2, 2012.
Meanwhile, the Department of National Defence 147202 84-24181 67-18550
(DND) began looking for an aircraft which it could 147203 87-00081 67-18477
immediately employ on operations in Afghanistan
147204 84-24154 64-13140
and settled on the CH-47D model. Under pressure
from the terms of the 2008 Manley Report which 147205 86-01650 66-00103
recommended obtaining new medium-lift helicopters 147206 86-01651 65-08015
and unmanned aerial vehicles by February 2009,
DND arranged to buy six CH-47Ds that were already 147207 87-00096 63-07906
in Afghanistan from the US Army, in this case, aircraft
that had served with the 101st Airborne Division. squadron insignia could compromise operational ABOVE: Five CH-147D Chinooks
and a lone CH-146 Griffon occupy
Redesignated by the CF as CH-147D, the helicopters security. There is also no longer a requirement for the Canadian Air Wing flight line in
were already located in Afghanistan (five in Bagram stylised maple leaves as the helicopters in theatre February 2009, looking rather drab with
and 1 in Kandahar), and so started the transfer which are fully marked, albeit in subdued black with the their new black markings. CF DND
began on December 24, 2008 and completed on the Canadian flag on the tail as well as the Canadian
30th. On January 8, 2009, a crew from 408 Tactical Government logo which consists of the word
Helicopter Squadron flew CH-147D Chinook 147201 Canada with the flag flying off of the D on the
on its debut flight as a Canadian aircraft from their sides of the main fuselage. What was left was, for
base at Kandahar Airfield. the most part, nose art that consisted of word play
With the arrival of the CH-147D Chinook, Joint and double entendres.
Task Force Afghanistan gained greater access In July 2010, Canadian Expeditionary Force
to one of the worlds most powerful workhorse Command (CEFCOM) Headquarters sent a two-
helicopters for moving troops and supplies in the person team under Operation Keepsake (I was on
theatre and with its ability to carry large quantities this team) into the theatre in order to catalogue
of cargo and soldiers, was a major asset to Canada historical mementos for repatriation back to
and to her allies in Afghanistan. With the addition Canada and to photograph the living conditions at BELOW: New CH-147F Chinooks sit
on the ramp at 450 Squadron in CFB
of helicopter airlift, there was a corresponding Kandahar Airfield. One of the photographic tasks Petawawa, Ontario during the final arrival
reduction in the need for troops to travel by road, was to record the nose art on the six Canadian ceremony on July 3, 2014. CF DND
thereby lowering the risk of ambushes, land mines CH-147D Chinooks.
and improvised explosive devices. The artwork was applied to the Canadian Chinooks
When studying current operational Canadian in the same place, just forward of the crew access
aircraft nose art it quickly becomes apparent that door on the starboard fuselage of the aircraft and
the traditional Second World War themes for nose each will now be discussed further according to the
art, have fallen out of vogue. Images of leggy, Canadian tail number.
scantily-clad, well-endowed, attractive ladies
adorning combat aircraft are no longer considered
acceptable by the public or the military and
41
Aviation
CH-147D 147202
Chinook 147202 The Magic Bus featured nose
artwork that consisted of a cartoon version of a yellow
school bus with overhead spinning rotors which appear
to symbolize the CH-147D helicopter. The term bus
may also have referred to the helicopters role of
CH-147D 147201 ferrying personnel and cargo throughout the Canadian
It is ironic that the first Chinook in the series carries area of operations which was located in Panjwai
the last painted and the most traditional yet Province in southern Afghanistan.
controversial of all the artwork. Correspondence Unfortunately, on August 5, 2010, The Magic
notes with the Air Wing in Kandahar record that this Bus, while being piloted by Captain Will Fielding,
aircraft was to be called Lady Mary-Ann. Apparently CD MMV, was brought down near Masum Ghar and
no-one informed the artist Master Corporal (MCpl) destroyed as a result of enemy ground fire. Capt
Robert Bannen what was considered appropriate Fielding safely landed the burning aircraft saving
because the provocative Miss BHaven features everyone on board, and for his actions was awarded
the upper half of a seductive, flaming red-haired, the Medal of Military Valour by His Excellency the
well-proportioned woman in a low-cut red dress Right Honourable David Johnston, Governor General
that reveals some amount of cleavage. This girlie and Commander-in-Chief of Canada, at Rideau Hall on
ABOVE LEFT: No boarding passes required on this flight as heavily laden and well-armed Canadians gingerly step around a
ramp-mounted 7.62mm C6 machine Gun when loading onto 204 Black Jack. In this case they pass under a red devil that was
painted on the rear engine housing by this helicopters previous U.S. operators. Tim Patry ABOVE RIGHT: MCpl Gord Bennett
strikes a pose beside his macabre Black Jack artwork. Gord Bennett
January 26, 2012. This aircraft was replaced by another, changed to Blow Torch and then Jack the Blow
147207, although the nose art was not replicated on Torch which did not sound right so he improvised at
the replacement helicopter. the last minute.
This aircraft had an impressive combat history,
built as CH-47A in 1964, it served a full tour in
CH-147D 147203 Vietnam with B Company, 228th Aviation Support
MCpl Patry reported that, originally, 203 had the Helicopter Battalion, then operated with the Thai
Red Devil, an all-red nude woman with wings Air Force. It returned to the United States in 1983
painted onto it and in a bout of miscommunication and was converted to CH-47D. This aircraft had
well call it, it was painted over. He remarked that accumulated 3,598 hours as a CH-47A, then logged
the original artwork was about half the size of the an additional 6,540 hours as a CH-47D, before being
existing now and a lot less detailed. During my first purchased by Canada.
tour I had taken some pictures and had those for
reference when I re-drew and scaled up the picture
for the re-application. I did that two days before I left CH-147D 147205
in May of 2009 while it was in a 200hr inspection Perhaps the most Canadian of all the Chinook
cycle. 95% of the people did not like that it had nose art was 2 for Hooking! a stylized skeleton
been taken off. consisting of an upper torso and skull wearing a
red hockey helmet with a small white maple leaf.
The skeleton was holding an upturned hockey stick
CH-147D 147204 representing a scythe like that used by the Grim
Black Jack was a very dark and ominous nose art in Reaper; it also symbolizes a hooking motion which,
which a man is silhouetted by a full moon. He is partially Canadians who are raised on hockey as a national
hidden by a black cape and top hat, revealing only his sport know also represents a two minute penalty
menacing eyes. In his right hand is a large meat hook that is incurred for hooking an opposing player with ABOVE: Chinook 147205 2 For
which is thrust upwards and is dripping with blood. the stick. 2 For Hooking! also related to one of Hooking! Steve Forth
The words Black Jack are accented with small drops the many roles for which CH-147D Chinook was BELOW: Looking a little worse for
of blood. Before corresponding with the artists, it was employed, that of hauling one or two slung loads wear from having crashed onto a dry
recorded that the hook was significant in that Chinooks simultaneously hooked underneath the helicopter. river bed, 205 2 For Hooking! was
quickly recovered and eventually
are used to carry slung loads under the fuselage by MCpl Bennett was also the artist and reported that transported back to Canada where the
means of a hook. The macabre and dark nature of this this was his first work. When we took possession of unique artwork will be displayed in the
Canadian War Museums new post-
work may be a reflection of the night-time operations this Chinook from the Americans it already had an ugly WWII gallery. Steve Forth
carried out by the helicopters and their crews and the skeleton wearing a Mexican sombrero and was named
nature of military operations that result in the spilling of Social Distortion. It was unanimous amongst the
blood when killing or incapacitating the enemy. maintenance crew that it HAD to go, so they
MCpl Gord Bennett clarified matters and looked to me to paint over it.
wrote that Black Jack features Jack the Ripper
brandishing a bloody meat hook in a full moon, the
hook representative of the Chinooks we operated.
Many of our operations were cloaked in darkness
while dispensing our infanteers at night- to do what
they do best. I wanted our Chinooks to share some
of the darker side of this glory, as well as showing
the boarding infanteers that were in it with them
all the way. The original title was going to be Jack
the Gripper since the original call sign given to the
Chinooks was Gripper. Bennett also mentioned
that part way through the painting the name was
www.militarymodelling.com 43
Aviation
Sources
https://athabaskang07.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/the-reincarnation-of-nose-art-by-canadian-forces/
http://scholars.wlu.ca/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1787&context=cmh
http://www.canadianmilitaryhistory.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/7-Storey-Chinook-nose-art.pdf
http://www.ctvnews.ca/4-canadian-soldiers-injured-in-afghan-chopper-crash-1.644426
http://www.ctvnews.ca/manley-says-afghanistan-report-isn-t-all-bad-news-1.272306
https://www.dvidshub.net/news/70575/canadian-forces-us-marines-lift-damaged-chinook-safety
http://www.rwrwalker.ca/CF_CH147.html
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/world/canadian-forces-confirms-helicopter-was-brought-down-by-small-arms-fire/article1214299/
www.militarymodelling.com 45
AFV
offering, the moulding does not provide much in ABOVE: The etch was added with
superglue. The windshield and wheels
the way of definition and so I discarded the figures were only temporarily affixed at this
altogether. Also included in the Tamiya model are a point as these would be far easier to
paint separately.
few accessories such as tool box, a folded tarp, two
smaller rolled tarps, a leather pouch, a jerry and a
The Tamiya re-release 35336 of the original 35043 with some few weapons some which I would use. I added
added details - new figures, an engine and some etch.
windshield flaps as these were relatively common
on US Army GPAs and fashioned these out of tissue
paper by cutting the shape with scissors, affixing to
the windshield frame with a drop of white glue then
lightly brushing the tissue with a mix of water and
white glue. Other details include adding putty in a
few sink holes on the top hull (where the harpoon BELOW: A cutaway of a GPA Ford.
is supposed to fit)
and also covering
a few locator
holes that I would
not be using.
www.militarymodelling.com 47
AFV
ABOVE: The Red Army used large numbers of GPA Fords for supply and
troop carrier purposes.
BELOW: The windshield was done separately with the glass part mask out
with Tamiya tape.
ABOVE: A GPA undergoing tests at Fort Carson. This is one of a few photos I have seen of the hitch being used.
ABOVE: The model was marked using and dirt that the vehicle would have accumulated of the windshield were painted in Humbrol Dark
the decals from the Tamiya set and
the windshield protective flaps were while traversing rivers or waterways. The contrast Yellow 93 then lightly washed with Humbrol 64
painted in Humbrol 93. Despite the between the two finishes provides a neat effect (a Light Grey. The lights on the side and rear of the
Tamiya decals being 40 years old, they tip picked up from Master Modeller Tony Greenland GPA were painted in Humbrol Red 19 mixed with
worked like a charm!
in a back issue of Military Modelling). I then started a small amount of Humbrol Black to dull down the
in with some light drybrushing using Xtra Colour brightness of the red. For the front lights, I used
Oily Steel (X503) which produces a very convincing Silver marker from Tamiya and then added 5 minute
bare metal finish. The drybrushing has to be epoxy for the bulbs. The application of such a small
extremely subtle and barely noticeable. The next amount of paint for the lights (silver in front and red
step was a series of highly diluted washes using a in the rear) was done with a toothpick. The seats
mix of Testors thinners and Humbrol Matt Black 33 were painted in Humbrol Matt Black with a drop of
mixed 50/50 with Humbrol Matt Olive Drab 155. The Humbrol Khaki Drill 72 to lighten up the colour a bit.
wash should be 20% paint to 80% thinners. The A few things I opted to do or not do differently
application should not be too heavy otherwise the on this model. I did not mask off the portion of the
thinners will eat through the base coat. I allowed windshield where the wipers would typically clean
this to dry in a shoebox for 24 hours. the glass clean. Although in the modelling realm, this
The rubber on the tyres were painted with Vallejo has been standard practice, there has been quite a bit
Grey-Black in two coats then given a wash of lamp of discussion on whether this effect holds true. It is a
black oil paints. Once dry, the tyres were airbrushed good point and after looking at hundreds of wartime
using Humbrol Matt Khaki 26. The flaps on the side photos of vehicle windshields, I admit to seeing very
few vehicles with the half circle clean windshield.
RIGHT: Close up of the windshield Instead, I lightly sprayed the windshield with Humbrol
side protective cover which had been
painted in Humbrol Dark Yellow 93
Matt Khaki 26 then applied a few washes with Testors
then lightly washed with Humbrol 64 thinners neat to create a slightly dirt appearance to
Light Grey. the entire windshield. Windshields with a bit of dust
appear to be the most frequent effect I have seen in
photographs. Also, I did not dust up the tyres as much
as I usually would. Typically, I would place pigments on
my fingers and rub the treads in either black (from a
vehicle running on pavement or earth-coloured pastels
Conclusion
This is a particular enjoyable model because it is
absolutely hassle-free. If a modeller is not used to
etch, this is the perfect model to try your hand with
etch because there is not a lot of parts and the etch
pieces themselves are not miniscule and quite easy
to manipulate - and do not require much bending
and re-working. With the recent release by Tamiya
of the same model but with Russian figures (and
presumably Russian markings) added in, this could
make for an interesting variant with a M1910 7.62
Maxim placed on the front or a DP-28 mounted on
an antiaircraft tripod. A really enjoyable project and
loads of options for theatres and dioramas.
ABOVE: The lights on the side and rear of the GPA were painted in Humbrol Red 19 mixed with a small amount of Humbrol
Black to dull down the brightness of the red. The rubber on the tires were painted with Vallejo Grey-Black in two coats then
given a wash of lamp black oil paints and a light airbrushing of Humbrol Matt Khaki 26.
Techniques
1
Lets design a drum!
Marcel Von Hobe steers us through the
wonderful world of 3D printing.
New tool for animations but I soon saw the modelling potential.
So 3D printing - everything is possible! Is it really Many tests and many years later I am at a point where
and what does it cost? I am going to attempt to give I know what is possible and how I can offer a 3D
this subject some clarity. But we start off with an oil design to a printing company. At the moment, I use a
drum (Image 1). company called Shapeways but there are others that
For some time now, I have been working with this do the same (Image 2).
new tool, namely 3D printing. A couple of years
ago my employer asked me to take a course in 3D
graphic design. In my work I mainly use it to create 3D What is 3D Printing?
animations for video. The software program I use for Actually, we have to call it 3D rapid prototyping. It
this is called Cinema 4D and its basically a 3D program has been around for many years and its the result
of a request from the industry to transform a design
into a prototype, quickly and cheaply. For instance,
3 before spending lots of money on a mould, you can
see, feel and test plastic parts. Rapid prototyping is
very accurate (Image 3).
The printing process: After a model (or part)
has been designed in a 3D software program, the
computer slices the 3D design. Basically, this breaks
the design up into many thin layers. The printer more
or less works like an inkjet that prints a letter onto a
piece of paper (one slice). A 3D printer can then print
another letter (layer) onto the first one (second slice).
Then it prints a third, a fourth and so on. This way you
build a 3D design from the bottom up.
There are five different printing methods which
can be categorized into 3 kinds: resin, powder and
wire printers.
www.militarymodelling.com 53
Techniques
8
10
Techniques
11
13
www.militarymodelling.com 55
Techniques
14
15
16
17
There is only one thing left to do, remove the needed to print your model. Every material has a
support material (6). This is done by heating the price per cubic centimetres. The same applies to 18
model and melting the wax-like support material the volume of support material.
which runs through the escape hole. The added Machine space is determined by how much room
bonus of this hole is that a model is hollow and this your design needs inside the printing machine. Only
reduces the printing costs (more on that later on). a certain surface area is available and they try to fill
There are some drawbacks. I have to mention that space every time they do a print run. You can
that after printing, a residue may be left behind on imagine that a voluminous design like a frame may
the model. This is from the fluid bath (SLA) or the cost more than three oil drums, although they may
support material (MJM). Shapeways cleans the parts have the same volume.
in an ultrasonic cleaner but this is sometimes not Handling costs are mainly labour. They are a
done thoroughly enough. Cleaning is very important set price per design (file). Handling labour for
though, because glue and especially paint will hold instance includes checking a design, collecting
better on clean surfaces. You can use almost anything designs into one production run, taking them out
from (baby) shampoo to more aggressive cleaning of the machine and cleaning them, not forgetting
agents, like alcohol or paint thinner. packaging.
Uncleaned parts can change colour, although
I have not seen this for some time, it will not
influence the material quality and strength. FUD and A few design tips that could save
FXD are quite strong materials but are brittle and you money
break easily. I always try to design up to the minimal Design within the material/machine guidelines.
design specifications which will result in thinner Every material has their own set of guidelines
walls (less volume) but also more fragile parts. If (wall thickness, minimal wire thickness, escape
you want more strength you simply have to design hole size). Shapeways has them on their website.
thicker parts or create a support structure. When your design does not comply with these
Overhanging parts (however small) are being guidelines a design will be rejected. If your model
printed with support as you can see in this example is too big your printing costs go up. Try to find the
(Image 16). The support material may leave a design limits to save money.
rougher surface on the areas it touches. Try to avoid Make sure your design is hollow and make
overhangs by making two parts or by turning the part. escape holes. When the oil drum does not have
an escape hole the machine will see it as one
massive piece and the price will be higher.
What to make Try to place more than one model into one file.
Basically, you can make anything. Yes, really, A file is the computer file that you get from the
anything; there are no limitations. Apart from the design software and you upload to the printing
main limitation, the thickness of your wallet! company. This will save handling costs. For FUD
In any case you will need a 3D design software and FXD they are five euro per file. It will be
program. There are many; some are easy, cheaper to order six drums in one file than six
some difficult while some are cheap and some times one drum. Place the drums as close together
expensive. The industry will use CAD-based as you can to save machine space but preferably
programs like Solid Works or Rhinoceros. I use not over each other, this will require a support
the modelling part of animation program called material to print the second part over the first. In
Cinema 4D, not only because I took a course the case of our drum the (red) (Image 18), support
but also because I find the modelling fast and material will leave a rougher surface on the top of
accurate. The best way to introduce you to 3D the drum.
designing is to find a program like Sketch-up; it When it is not possible to combine models into
is free. one file, you can also save on shipping by saving up
I can now write many, many pages on how your models and combining them into one order.
these programs work but the best way to learn is When you upload a file to Shapeways, an
to look at tutorial videos and to simply do it! Pick automated system will check your model in terms
a subject, like our oil drum, and GO! of printability and it will give you an estimated price.
I do want to share with you, some tips on This way, you can have your model checked during
how to save money. Until now, I have used your design phase and make adjustments to save
Shapeways. This company delivers good quality money. Please note that your design can still be
at a relatively low price. Printing can be done rejected after this first check. When you have placed
with other companies and can be done in many an order and paid, an engineer will check your model
surface qualities (read layer thicknesses). It all before it goes to production. If the check fails, you
depends on the price that you are willing to will be refunded and an offer made to adjust your
pay. I use Shapeways as a guide because I am design. You can then try ordering again. When its not
experienced with that company. However, the possible to collect models into one file, you can wait
following counts for all. until you have more models to save some shipping.
Prices are set by a couple of variables: volume What do I design? At the moment I have just
of design, volume of support material, the finished some bigger and some smaller things.
space taken up in the machine, handling costs, I have made interior sets for a M110, a ZSU-23-
packaging and shipping. Unfortunately, I cannot 4 Shilka and the 2S7 Pion. I also made a BAR
find out how much each variable will affect the armour set for the Dutch Fennek and a conversion
end price. to turn Dragons M2 and M3 halftracks into a
Design volume is measured when you upload it commonwealth M5. More on how the latter journey
(Image 17). They calculate how much material is went in the next part.
www.militarymodelling.com 57
MAFVA
Sharphooters Museum. 101173. The 97th (Kent Yeomanry) Field Brigade RA was formed from the East Kent Mounted Rifles and the West Kent Yeomanry after the Great War.
Your Regiment
Needs You
MAVFA news by Chairman John Ham (chairman@mafva.net)
M
AFVAs primary interest is modelling Britain has a rich military history. Much of this
CAPTIONS: Photos author, excepting
archive photos copyright of the respective military vehicles but a glance at the resides in small regimental museums and while
museums and reproduced with their Tankette index on www.mafva.net will most struggle to find enough income to keep going,
kind permission. Sharpshooters captions
from Dan Taylor, curator, and Sherwood reveal that members have a wide range of military the smaller establishments only survive because
captions from Steve Cox, Notts MAFVA. interests which I try to portray in these columns. of dedicated volunteers. Admission charges are
modest; others are free relying on donations.
www.armymuseums.org.uk has a list of these
museums and there are links on the MAFVA
website. Many have accessible archives and
uniforms and weapons exhibits as useful reference
sources. The changing needs of the British Army over
the centuries, expanding in wartime and contracting
in peacetime, are reflected in the regiments with
enlargements, mergers and changes of role.
Mounted regiments may have become infantry and
vice versa; infantry may have become artillerymen,
or engineers, or sometimes different regimental
battalions may have had contrasting roles.
Regular readers of the Column may recall an
article from three years ago which featured some
of these worthy museums that do not have the
same publicity and financial resources of their better
known bigger brethren, but are no less deserving
in our support. Many of these local museums are
very appreciative of support and some may accept
suitable models relating to the regiments history,
which can also be a very good club group activity.
Alternatively, the museum may be a good venue
for a club trip; some of the accompanying photos
are from such MAFVA visits. In this article I present
a number of other regimental museums that may
have connection with military vehicles. They may
or may not be near to you, but I hope that it may
Aldershot Military Museum. Challenger 1 rear view. This was an ex-prototype vehicle. In the
background, a Saladin Armoured Car and a Chieftain Mk11 of BAOR. Aldershot has a long history as a give some encouragement to investigate your
garrison town and has several military museums that may be worth checking out. local establishment. Being staffed by volunteers,
ABOVE: Sherwood Rangers. Allied troops from around the world gather
before the battle.There are no location details, but this Crusader of A Squadron
would be an exotic diorama subject.
LEFT: Aldershot Military Museum. Humber Pig Armoured Car featuring the
bull bars for breaching barricades often seen on Northern Ireland vehicles
during the Troubles. The museum has an assortment of AFV, soft skin
vehicles, some guns and other equipment.
www.militarymodelling.com 59
Books
On Parade
Books, magazines and DVDs reviewed
INFORMATION
British Destroyers assisted here by illustrator Tony The classes chapter is crammed
1939-45 Bryan. The first of two about (the main bulk of the book)
Pre-war Classes British Destroyers in the New with sections on Admiralty,
by Angus Konstam Vanguard series, this book Shakespeare, Scott, V, W, A to H
(New Vanguard No.246) contains a number of unpublished and I-Class destroyers.
The Royal Navy had no shortage of photographs (courtesy of the This is a great little book and
destroyers when we entered the Stratford archive) and a number dont be put off by its size; it really
Second World War in September of colour profiles and artwork is filled with detailed but very
1939. However, the bulk of them including a nice painting of H-Class readable information on a very
were rather old (some of them destroyers at The First Battle of interesting subject. Thanks to
were First World War vintage) or Narvik and a colour cutaway of Osprey for our review copy which
had been produced in peacetime HMS Greyhound. will be available from 20 April 2017.
and as such were lagging behind The book is broken down into David H Smith
the more modern German, Italian four main chapters named The
INFORMATION
and Japanese destroyers. Despite Destroyers of the Royal Navy; ISBN: 978-1-4728-1636-8
the new Tribal-class destroyers Inter-War Destroyer Design; Pages: 48 Price: 10.99
entering the Royal Navy from success especially against the The Destroyer Classes and
Format: Softback 184mm x 162mm
1938, there was no other choice U-boat threat. Destroyers in Action. The design
but to press these older pre-war Ex-Royal Navy officer Angus section covers function, role, Publisher: Osprey Publishing
vessels into service. They served Konstam has produced more modifications, weaponry, sensors,
Website: www.ospreypublishing.com
all over the world and with some than 60 books for Osprey, ably habitability and appearance.
latter stages of the First World makes sense! Nice touches ISBN: 978-2-35250-464-1
War. During the Second World at the rear of the book take Pages: 98 Price: 20.00
War the 1st took part in the pushed on into Germany and a look at the 1st Infantry
invasion of Sicily, contributed Czechoslovakia for the final Division in the movies, facts Format: Softback 250mm x 210mm
greatly to D-Day, fought their countdown. and figures, patches, attached Publisher: Sophia Histoire et Collections
way out of the Ardennes during This book presented to us units, senior officers and
the battle of the Bulge and then by a French publisher and dual Medal of Honour recipients. Website: www.historieetcollections.com
www.militarymodelling.com 61
Product reviews
Atten-Shun! AFV
Figures
etc. sprue (29 parts) and one Product: Hard plastic figure set back on 15 sprues. Quite an Product: Construction kit
base sprue (17 parts); 334 impressive start considering Ref: 80145 Scale: 1/35
Ref: ACW 115 Scale: 28mm
parts which I think is a record the finished tank is little
when you see the size of the Price: 20 Parts: 201 more than 10cm long! The Price: 22.99 Parts: over 500+ PE Sheet (20)
box (once their out you wont Manufacturer: Perry Miniatures black and white instruction Manufacturer: Hobby Boss
get them back in!). The figures booklet is A-4 in size, has a
represent a good cross-section Website: www.perry-miniatures.com dozen pages and takes you Website: www.hobbyboss.com
Figures
INFORMATION
eight parts. Contained within Product: Resin figure kit
a tough box (art by Alex Long),
Ref: DG75F002 Scale: 75mm
the parts are the main body,
a pair of arms, a sheathed Price: approx 36 Parts: 8
sword, a two handed spear,
Manufacturer: DG-Artwork
spear tip and a base. Prep work,
as usual, has been kept to a Website: www.artworkdg.com
AFV
www.militarymodelling.com 63
Product reviews
AFV
Rubicon BM-
pack waterslide decal sheet is
13 Katyusha &
also included with Soviet and US
Studebaker US6
markings. The build is straight
The name Katyusha (Katie) forward, the only complex part is
when associated with the the BM-13 and some care should
Second World War conjures up be applied to the folding frame
a vision of flame trailing rockets which can be made to elevate.
being delivered en masse Once again, a wargaming scale kit
towards the enemy coupled with which makes for a great model.
a screeching sound which would Thanks to Jamie at Rubicon
have put the fear of god into all 5.2in (13.2cm) and weighed 93lb truck of which thousands were Models for our example.
but the most battle hardened (2kg). Generally the BM-13 was supplied to the Soviet Union under MC
troops, hence its nickname by mounted on a truck so that once Lend-Lease. Typically, Rubicon
INFORMATION
the Germans Stalinorgel fired it could be quickly relocated gives the option of building a Product: Construction kit
(Stalins organ). A simple otherwise the inevitable return standard US6 or the truck with Ref: 280036 Scale: 1/56 (28mm)
design, the BM-13 Katyusha fire would have brought the day the BM-13 on the rear. The former
rocket artillery consisted of to an end quicker than planned. option helps raise the part count Price: 18 Parts: 49
parallel rails mounted on a This example by Rubicon to 49 which are mounted on three Manufacturer: Rubicon
folding frame. The rocket was 2ft features a BM-13 mounted to sturdy sprues while the cab of
7in (80cm) long, had diameter of the rear of a Studebaker US6 6x6 the US6 is separate. A jammed Website: www.rubiconmodels.com
Figures AFV
stance, this latest figure from Product: Construction kit tweaked until 1958 remained standard green. The tank
Scale 75 depicts an SS Tanker Ref: SW35-002 Scale: 1/35 in production until 1983 (in featured is the initial serial
NCO (not NEO as I first Czechoslovakia) and as a production version, the T-54-
thought upon looking at the Price: Approx 10.00 Parts: 2 result up to 100,000 were 1 with improved, thicker
package!). The figure itself Manufacturer: Scale75 built. It will not come as armour. The lack of interior
is cast in one piece, only the surprise then that a large makes this version of the
Website: www.scale75.com
head being a separate item. number still remain in T-54 a comparatively easy
Aircraft
Eduard Messerschmitt
The name Erla refers to the
Bf 109G-6 Erla
canopy type which is included
Out of nearly 34,000 examples but the two decal options for
of the Messerschmitt Bf 109 Stab III./HG 5 and II./JG 52,
built, approximately 12,000 of as nice as they are, are not
them was the G-6 version as appropriate for it.
presented here by Eduard in Thanks very much to Eduard
Weekend Edition form. The the down side to this was a A4 instruction booklet with for our sample which is
G-6 was classed as a Light marginal loss in speed. a couple of smart colour and available from all major outlets
Fighter and it had eleven sub- This 2017 rebox with some decal options to the rear. For and online model stores.
variants which operated in the updated and new parts obvious reasons Eduard likes Andy Palmer
reconnaissance, high-altitude, originally harks back to 2012. to push its aftermarket PE and
night fighter and tropicalized Despite being a trimmed down for this aircraft there are nine
role in all theatres. The G-6 weekend edition there is still additional improvements you
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit
was particularly noted for enough extra parts to build can purchase including canopy,
introducing the bigger 13mm the G-14 as well. All contained wheels, propeller, exhaust
Ref: 84142 Scale: 1/48
MG 131 machine gun which within a relatively large box stacks and even a radio Price: Approx 16.50 Parts: ???
resulted in larger blisters on for a 1/48 machine, this kit compartment. These additions
Manufacturer: Eduard
the upper surfaces of the is up to Eduards usual high would make this very good kit
wing to conceal the breeches; standard backed up by a glossy look outstanding. Website: www.eduard.com
Aftermarket
Product: Paints
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit and a list of paints on the front a number of their dedicated
and a few examples of typical World War 2 German uniform Ref: AK3200 Scale: 1/35
Ref: 37014 Scale: 1/35
Vietnam era uniform colours. sets with the US Field Drab
Price: 43.99 Parts: 970 Inside the box there is a from another set. Price: 17.99 Parts: 6
Manufacturer: MiniArt plastic tray contain the typical I would have preferred a Manufacturer: AK Interactive
bottles of acrylic paint, the painting guide to have been
Website: www.miniart-models.com six colours are listed as; Dark included with this set bit overall Website: www.ak-interactive.com
www.militarymodelling.com 65
BRAND NEW
Set of resin wheels for kits in 1/35 scale.
Our wheels are designed with use of original measurements and pictures. The
original casting method leaves only a tiny trace of casting plug (around 1 mm
wide).
The set contains 14 complete wheels, a spare wheel, a drill and a QuickWheel
painting mask.
FEATURES LIST:
- corrected shape of the steel wheel by adding the grooves inside the rims
- corrected depth of the steel wheel (please note how shallow are the ones
in plastic kits and how deep are the wheels actually on pictures of real
tanks)
- corrected shape and size of the bolts
- added optional stripe in the middle of wheels rubber bandage to imitate
the residue of rubber from vulcanization process, which can be easily
sanded off if not required.
- corrected height and width of the middle hub of the wheel
- added the grease nipples on the middle hub cap and its side (early place
ment and shape)
BK-062 M48 Early pattern wheels + Spare (for Revell & other manfuacturers - added markings on the rubbers
kits). QuickWheel mask included.
www.quickwheelstore.com
British
Model
Soldier
Society
The national network of military modellers
www.bmssonline.com
M R S
O
NEW
KS
BOO The
T he Ashantee
Ash Medal 1873-74
to the Royal Navy and Royal Marines
155mm x 234mm, case bound with colour jacket, 604 pages,
numerous black and white illustrations, and colour plates,
Price 20 to members (restricted to one copy each) and
25 to non-members, plus post and packing (UK - 4.40,
Europe - 11.40, rest of the world - 20.40)
Surgeons of the Royal Navy in the First World War
155mm x 234mm, case bound with colour jacket, 772 pages,
numerous black and white illustrations, and colour plates,
Price 25 to members (restricted to one copy each) and 30
to non-members, plus post and packing (UK - 4.40, Europe
- 11.40, rest of the world - 20.40)
To order any of these limited editions contact the General
Web: www.chestermodelcentre.com Secretary at generalsecretary@omrs.org or by post to:
Email: shop@chestermodelcentre.com PO Box 6195, Royal Leamington Spa, Warwickshire,
Tel: 01244 400930 CV31 9JU, United Kingdom. Members and non-members
may also order and pay using credit and debit cards via the
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Advertisers Index
B M
Bachmann/Pocketbond 2 Model Cellar.com 68
Bookworld Wholesale 6&7 Models Galore 73
British Model Soldier Soc. Show 69 Monk Bar Model Shop 73
C O
Chester Model Centre 69 OMRS New Books 69
Classified & Shop Guides 73 Quickwheelstore.com 67
Colour Party Paints 66 R
E Rubicon Models 68
El Greco 76 S
Enigmahut.co.uk 74 Smokybottom.com 73
Euro Miniature Expo 8 Sphere Products 73
H T
Halifax Modellers World 67 Thomas Gunn Miniatures 9
Historex 3, 8 & 9 V
I Vectis Auctions 75
IPMS Modelling Exhibition 69
www.militarymodelling.com 81
73