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21st Anniversary Issue

issue 4,2016

PRESENTS NOCHE BUENA


GAME PLAN
PERFECT Roast turkey,

50+
of the best food
gifts of the season
lechon belly,
honey glazed pork
shank, plus party
drinks galore!

FREE

4 week
52
Seafood Sotanghon
by Tina Concepcion Diaz

Pile up your plate with the freshest,


tastiest seafood and noodles
F o o d Lo v e s

Our Holiday Wish ListHeres what were dreaming of receiving this Christmas season
Produced by GIN N Y M ATA | Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SE V ILL A | Photography by PAU LO VA LE N ZU E L A

Baked Brie with 2 teaspoons water spread a circle of the dried


I would love to get
Walnuts and cranberrry-walnut mixture
Cranberries 1. Preheat oven to 425F. to match the dimensions of
excellent bottled tuyo, By Ginny Mata Grease a cookie sheet. the Brie.
dulong and Spanish Serves 5 2. In a small bowl, combine 5. Carefully place the Brie,
sardines. Pixie the dried cranberries with the apricot jam side
Rodrigo Sevilla, chef 1/4 cup dried and walnuts. Set aside. down, on the cranberry-
and food stylist cranberries In another bowl, mix the walnut mixture. Wrap the
1/4 cup walnuts, ingredients for the egg puff pastry around the
Paper-thin slices of Jamon toasted lightly ZDVK6HWDVLGHb Brie. Flip it over, ensuring
Iberico de Bellota and a and very b5ROORXWbDVKHHWRISXII that the top is as smooth
coarsely chopped pastry. Using fondant as possible, and the cheese
bottle of red Bordeaux
1 pack frozen puff cutters, cut out leaves of is sealed well within the
wine would be nice to have pastry, to avoid leakage.
pastry, thawed different sizes (ranging
this Christmas. Ricky 1/4 cup apricot from small to medium). Decorate with the puff
Ladia, photographer MDPb This will be used to SDVWU\OHDYHVb%UXVKOLJKWO\
2 packages Brie decorate the top of the with egg wash.
Chewy chocolate chip cheese (8 ounces), Brie. 6. Bake for 20 to 25
cookies, preferably round bSpread the apricot minutes until golden
homemade, and packaged in jam on top of the Brie. In brown. Let cool. Serve with
a gift basket with milk from EGG WASH : the center of the rolled toasted French bread and
Rizal Dairy Farms or some 1 egg out sheet of puff pastry, grapes.
other local milk provider.
Yvette Tan, writer

It would be great to get


Chocnut Pie from Purple
Oven! I tasted a slice of
it during my very rst
internship, and Ill never
forget it.
Juzzrand Miguel
Gimena, editorial
assistant

Id be very happy to
receive any gift (food or
otherwise), but if you were
to make me choose, I would
denitely love to get a large
round of excellent Brie or
Camembert. Lovely when
eaten as is, sliced and plated
with grapes, walnuts and
dried fruits, its also brilliant
when baked en croute in
puff pastry, with all of that
warm, melty gooeyness
spilling out of its golden
brown crust. Ginny
Mata, associate editor

2 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Issue 4, 2016

The Holiday Issue


24
Cooking for Family
Tis the season to make
fun food memories with
your nearest and dearest
By Maricris Encarnacion

53
Presents Perfect
Our top 50+ picks
of fantastic food
gifts this season
By The FOOD Team

70
Entertaining
Nenuca Benitez of Marios
shares her familys cherished
noche buena recipes
By Michaela Fenix

4 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


MENU
GUIDE
Vol. 1, Issue 4

REGULARS
02 FOOD Loves
08 Starter FOOD TOUR
09 Tastings
104 Events 94 From Farm to Table
in the Heart of Cavite
How Silangs evolving
COLUMNS restaurant scene is linked to the
16 Sweet Stuff bounty of its organic farms
Make Christmas sweeter with a By Yvette Tan
classic lemon bundt cake
By Joey E. Prats
HOME BASICS
17 Wellness
Strategies for staying healthy 78 D.I.Y.
during the holidays Party cocktails by the pitcher
By Gerry H. Tan By Kalel Demetrio

18 Key Ingredient 82 Cooking Class


Bananas nd their way into Learn the foolproof way of
delicious caramel bars making French macarons
By Jill F. Sandique By Joey E. Prats

19 Homegrown 85 Light and Right


A festive Visayan torta the Celebrate the healthy way this
traditional way Christmas
By Tatung Sarthou By Nancy Dizon-Edralin

88 Simply Desserts
DINING OUT Remembering our Filipino
20 A guide to FOODs favorite heritage through kakanin
new restaurants By Heny Sison

91 30 Minutes or Less
FEATURES Christmas dinner leftovers made
better the day after
34 Everyday Dinners By Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla
Five Filipino chefs share their
favorite French recipes LAST BITE
By Anne Marie Ozaeta
108 Nigella Lawson
42 Cook it Five Ways Comes to Town
International beef recipes that By Anne Marie Ozaeta
are out of this world
By Martin Kaspar

49 The Best of the Block Please forgive us!


For Issue 3, 2016, the credit for the
Our favorite dishes from the
gorgeous photos in the section Cook
newest restaurant hub in town It Five Ways: The Mediterranean
Way To Health goes to Paul del
51 FOOD Tastings Rosario, except for the photo of
at The Grove the Couscous Pilaf which was shot
The Gastrofest at The Grove by Paulo Valenzuela. The photo of
by Rockwell grooves with good the vegetarian omelet in Dr. Gerry
food and great music Tans Wellness column was shot by
Valenzuela as well.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 5


RECIPE BOX
Starters 40 Christmas ham hock Sides Desserts
02 Baked Brie in honey glaze 76 Kentucky yam 74 Apple walnut cake
with walnuts with roasted 76 Beef lasagna 18 Banana walnut
and cranberries vegetables and 76 Fresh Baguio beans caramel squares
32 Bulalo chestnuts 48 Mediterranean 90 Candy cane syrup
sotanghon soup 103 Fried bangus couscous with ice cream
103 Dalahican soup with pepper sauce 86 Pasta a la Norma 76 Leche an
52 Herby spicy 48 Hungarian 103 Salted egg 16 Lemon bundt cake
citrusy tuna kinilaw beef paprikash carbonara 82 Macarons
76 Classic potato salad 40 Lamb navarin 32 Seafood curry 89 Maja mais
85 Salmon salad 32 Lechon belly roast sotanghon 32 Naked ube cake
with red wine 48 Ox tongue with 93 The day after 103 Queso de bola
vinaigrette Madeira-caper Christmas noodles pastillas cheesecake
sauce 32 Salted egg parfaits
Mains 40 Poached sh Breakfast and Snacks
103 Backyard barbecue with beurre blanc 92 Breakfast casserole Drinks
baby back pork ribs 35 Poulet la crme 52 Grilled cheese 78 Gin and tonic
40 Beef burgundy (chicken in cream pimiento infusions
62 Beef kefta with sauce) 89 Kutsinta 79 Hot Christmas
mint sour cream 86 Roasted rosemary, 90 Patopat with cocktail
48 Beef sirloin with lemon and garlic panutsa sauce 80 Lime mojito
whiskey-garlic chicken 19 Torta Argao 80 Margranderita
cream sauce 76 Relleno de pabo (roast 52 Passion never
48 Beef tenderloin stuffed turkey) grows old
in cilantro-pepper 80 Pink sangria
crust with stir-fried 52 Skinny mojito
bell pepper medley 79 Tropical island
punch

6 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Editor-in-Chief Anne Marie Ozaeta President, ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. Ernesto L. Lopez
Managing Director Mark Yambot
Content and Editorial Director Christina N. Lopez
Managing Editor Regina Troy Barrios
Publishing Operations Head Doris Laxamana
Publishing Assistant Jacqueline Ignacio
Art Director Noel Avendao Brand Marketing Consultant Mari Santiago

Associate Editor Ginny Mata Finance Ofcer Rowena D. Dote


Finance Analyst Sheryl A. Baria

Nutritionist & Recipe Tester Cecilia R. Esperanza, rnd API Ad Sales Heads Monica Herrera, Racquel Valeriano Celi
Sales Consultant Philip Cu-Unjieng
Editorial Assistant Juzzrand Miguel Gimena Account Executives Euniz Sunga, Jane Ramirez, Iaree Anico,
Jenny Dayao, Melanie Magtira, Michelle Sy-Yap,
Roselyn Bisquera, Patricia Villaricas, Patrick Garcia
Editorial Operations Ofcer Zeny Orfano-Gonzales Digital Sales Manager Rex Anthony Fontanoza
Advertising Trafc Assistant Rizza Miralles
Contributing Editor
Tintin Samson Events Manager Love Andaya
Marketing Artists Christian Louis Manuel, Kara Louise Jimenez

Columnists Head, Advertorial and Special Publications Ruby Gonzalez


Joey E. Prats, Jill F. Sandique, Production Specialist Athena Fregillana
Tatung Sarthou, Gerry H. Tan Senior Art Director Sherwin Llames
Art Directors Raff Colmenar, Alphard Buenaventura
Editorial Assistant Arlyn Rosales
Photographers
Paul del Rosario, JC Inocian, Ricky Ladia, Retail Operations Head Kristine Hernandez
Vyn Radovan, Paulo Valenzuela Vendor Manager Joy T. Pedraza
Vendor and Marketing Manager Sharleen Soon
Logistics Supervisor Fernando Tioyao
Writers
Maricris Encarnacion, Michaela Fenix, Yvette Tan Pre-press Production Manager Andy Lizardo
Pre-press Sales Manager Teresita Bayani
Stylists Pre-press Production Supervisor Gil Cargason Jr.
Art Director Alex Dulay
Angelique Abesamis-Castro, Tina Concepcion Diaz,
Desktop Operator Seb Cachola
Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Nini Falcon, Printing Coordinator Jouie Mar Doca
Athena Fregillana, Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla General Services Head Arnel C. Bon
HR Account Head Mia Ortiz
Recipe Developers HR Account Ofcer Anika Gregorio

Kalel Demetrio, Tina Concepcion Diaz,


Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Martin Kaspar, Christine Paredes,
Joey Prats, Pixie Rodrigo Sevilla, Heny Sison COO, Sky Cable Corporation and Head, Narrowcast Antonio S. Ventosa
Senior Finance Ofcer, Narrowcast Myca G. Ramos
Ad Sales Cluster Head Jenny Silverio
Marketing Head, Narrowcast Terry Villareal
HR Cluster Head, Narrowcast and Star Creatives Jovie Sy

ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. is a member of ABS-CBN Cable Channels


and Print Media Group.

8/F ELJ Communications Center, Mother Ignacia Avenue


cor. Eugenio Lopez Jr. Avenue, Quezon City 1103, Philippines
Editorial: Tel. No. 415-2272 local 4645; Fax No. 415-1215
or email food@abs-cbn.com
Advertising: Tel. Nos. 415-2272 local 4655; 924-4101 to 02 local 4668 to 74

Copyright November 2016 ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.


All rights reserved. All submissions become the property of FOOD Magazine.
Printed in the Philippines. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced in any
Seafood Curry Sotanghon manner whatsoever without the written permission of ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.
Recipe and food styling by
Tina Concepcion Diaz; Photography For orders and subscription inquiries, please call 415-
by JC Inocian; Set styling by Nini Falcon
2810 or 415-2272 local 4826, and look for Lizzel.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 7


Starter

T
he best thing about working at FOOD Magazine is, to tester Cecille Esperanza whipped our featured recipes into
state the obvious, all the delicious food I get to try. But shape. And editorial assistant Miggy Gimena, the newest and
the truth is, its really not just about the food. What I youngest member of the team, supported us in all our tasks
love is brainstorming new ideas for the magazine over with much enthusiasm and energy.
a table laden with food samples (and wine too!). Its Of course, the FOOD team cant make it happen without
testing the featured dishes in our FOOD kitchen, then having our talented roster of photographers, columnists, writers,
them as our ofce lunch. Its our marathon photo shoots stylists and recipe developers. A big shout out goes to
fueled by strong cups of coffee and way too much sweets. Its contributing editor Tintin Samson for the gorgeous Presents
piling into the company van for out-of-town trips that involve Perfect feature that showcases our best food gifts for the
non stop restaurant hopping from morning till night. And its holidays.
our late nights at the ofce scrambling with deadlines, but still What I love most about working at FOOD Magazine is,
happily enjoying grilled liempo with garlic rice at 10 in the yes, the food of course, but most of all, its working with this
evening! talented, fun and happy bunch of people.
Putting FOOD Magazine together isnt a one-person
job. Its the entire team that makes it happen, from dreaming A happy, healthy and food-lled year ahead!
up our lineup to proong every word on every page! In this
holiday issue, managing editor Troy Barrios worked with
Marios matriarch Nenuca Benitez to put together an elegant Editor-In-Chief
Christmas spread. Associate editor Ginny Mata assiduously
researched restaurants and farms in Silang, Cavite to come up
with a comprehensive itinerary. Art director Noel Avendao
framed our stories in compelling visual fashion. Recipe Like us on facebook.com/FOODMagazine

Follow us on Instagram: @FOODMagazine

contributors
Maricris Vyn Radovan Ricky Ladia
Encarnacion is is a proud is one of the
the editor of the green-and-white most respected
Aboitiz-Moraza alumnus who photographers in
family cookbooks, originally took the industry today.
Through Food up International A Nikon endorser,
and Memories Studies before Ricky regularly
and Living, pursuing Law. conducts pho-
Loving, Feasting. But his true tography work-
She is also a calling led him shops all over the
regular contributor of Metro Society. to photography post-university. Since Philippines, the Middle East and other
Her interest in food extends beyond 2011, he has been covering sports events, countries in Southeast Asia. He is also
eating and cooking, as she travels far and lately, hes also discovered his air known for his food photography, having
and widelike to the worlds No. 1 for shooting other subjects like proles worked with several food magazines,
restaurant, El Celler de Can Rocato and food. For his rst time with FOOD, restaurants and culinary schools here.
experience the ne art of food. She he took photos for our feature on the He shot the stunning photographs for
shares memories of bonding over a hottest new restaurants at The Block on our FOOD Tour feature on Silang,
holiday meal in our cover story on page 24. page 49. Cavite on page 94..

8 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


trends | finds | news | media | travel

Give
the Gift of

The best present for Christmas is a window into the world ,


through the pages of a beloved book
By TROY BARRIOS
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA The Gullet:
Styling by ANGELIQUE ABESAMIS CASTRO Dispatches on
Philippine Food
Anvil Publishing Inc., 2016
By Clinton Palanca
Its hard to tear oneself away
from the witty, sometimes
acerbic, always fascinating
writing of Clinton Palanca,
who in this book treats food
as history, both personal
and political. Gullet, which
stretches from mouth to
stomach, is a reference to
his encounter with and
understanding of food, from
VWUHHW HDWHULHV WR QH GLQLQJ
Its a remarkable journey that
no one should miss.

Nothings cozier than having a


handful of chewy cookies to keep
you company while you read.
We love The Bald Bakers Milo
Dinosaur Cookies with a glass of
milk. To order, turn to page 83

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 9


TASTINGS | media
books

Philippine Food,
Cooking, and Dining
Dictionary
Anvil Publishing Inc., 2016
By Edgie Polistico
Camote, the rootcrop, derives
its name from kamot, the act
of scratching ones head in
puzzlement. This is just one of
the many amusing tidbits found
in Polisticos encylopedic book,
OOHG DV LW LV ZLWK  WHUPV
relating to food ingredients,
dishes, cooking styles, prep
techniques and utensils. Not
just for geeks, its a necessary
reference for anyone who cooks
or loves Filipino food.

Something to Food
About: Exploring
Creativity with
Innovative Chefs
Clarkson Potter, 2016
By Questlove and Ben
Greenman
This is not a cookbook, but
an exploration of creativity
and passion through food by
musician Questlove. Ten chefs
share their creative journey,
revealing common threads,
from passion, drive and
obsession to workaholicism.
The semi-philosophical tone
doesnt detract from the
books relevance, tackling as
it does such issues as a chefs
professional responsibility, the
impact of social media on food,
and how ideas grow. A great
conversation piece.

The Art and Soul


of Baking
Andrews McMeel, 2008
By Sur La Table and Candy
Mushet
A winner of the IACP Cookbook read nonetheless.
Awards and nominated for a the exotic. Recipes range from 6LQFH WKH  GRFXPHQWDU\
James Beard Award, this hefty Posh Eggs: Over 70 practical omelets to the fancy, Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Chef Jiro
tome is an impressive tool that Recipes for Wonderful for instance Mediterranean Red Ono has held the sushi lovers
will take you through a broad Eggy Things Pepper Eggs with Tahini Yogurt. of the world in his thrall. This
swath of baking recipes, from Quadrille Publishing, Ltd, Whether expert cook or novice, book takes us on an insightful,
cupcakes to layer cakes. The 2016 have fun and let your goofy egg humorous exploration of sushi,
writing is simple, practical and By Louise Hagger addiction out of the closet. from his view of the seasons,
easy to follow, and its packed For anyone whos ever loved FKRLFH RI IUHVKHVW VK DQG
with techniques and tips. If the comfort and the creamy Sushi Chef: VKHOOVK WR VHFUHWV WR VOLFLQJ
youre looking to go deeper into lush indulgence of a well-made Sukiyabashi Jiro DQG UHQHG SUHVHQWDWLRQ
D VSHFLF EDNLQJ FDWHJRU\ WKLV HJJ GLVK KHUH DUH  UHFLSHV Vertical, 2016 Indispensable for the lover of
book wont do it, but its a lovely ranging from the humble to By Shinzo Satomi Japanese cuisine, but youll need
a glossary.
All books available at National Bookstore
10 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4
TASTINGS | travel

Crawling
Osaka
Through

Actor, singer,
heartthrob Piolo SIGHTSEEING IN
Pascual and buddy OSAKA (Clockwise
from right) Piolo
Lui Villaruz and Lui go local
in kimonos at
embark on a food Shinsaibashi;
crawl challenge okonomiyaki on
a teppan grill at
through the streets YakiYaki Takoju;
hanging lanterns
of Osaka in search at the Buddhist
Hozenji Temple;
of the citys best Kuromon Market,
ramen, okonomiyaki one of Osakas
biggest markets
and takoyaki

T
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA

he Crawl, a new food


and travel show that
recently aired on
Lifestyle TV, sent
Piolo Pascual and
Lui Villaruz on a culinary
expedition to Osaka that
was as memorable as it was
avorful. They scoured
the city for local spots and Ren to Rin
hole-in-the-wall joints This acclaimed ramen spot
off the tourist path. Piolo was the hands-down favorite
explains, Ive been to Japan of Piolo and Lui, thanks
a couple of times but to nd to the spicy white sesame
these places hindi mo iisipin dan-dan noodles in curry.
nandoon siya. They came Lui declares, The avors are
away astounded at the sheer well balanced, ingredients
variety and quality on offer. are handmade and fresh.
Here are a few of their most Piolo adds, Lahat ng avor
unforgettable meals in Osaka: pinagkasya niya sa isang
bowl! They only make
Mitsuka Bouzu limited servings per day to
Piolo raved about the white maintain the ramens quality
miso ramen at this beer- so be sure to get there early.
friendly place. Ang sarap ng 2-5, Yamazaki-cho, Kita-ku,
ramen, kinda spicy, and so Osaka
avorful. I enjoyed it because
it was best suited with the Gonbe
beer. They brew their own Piolo and Lui discovered
beer and the ramen parang the Osaka specialty,
sinadya sa beer. 1-2-16, okonomiyaki, a savory
Oyodo-minami, Kita-ku, pancake made with a batter
Osaka of our, eggs, cabbage, grated

12 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


MEMORABLE MEALS
(Clockwise from top left)
Ren to Rins unforgettable
spicy dan-dan noodles;
Piolo and Lui at Ren to
Rin, their hands-down
favorite ramen spot;
making takoyaki on the
spot at the Takoyaki
Museum, a must-visit for
any takoyaki lover; the
beer-friendly white miso
ramen at Mitsuka Bouzu

then served with how different each dish is.


takoyaki sauce, Each restaurant has their own
mayonnaise and way of cooking their ramen or
bonito shavings. their okonomiyaki depending
Its the ultimate on their family tradition. Lui
Osaka street agrees, I think you should
food. Piolo and stay at least one month just for
Lui sampled a food crawl!
nagaimo (a kind of yam), plus at this restaurant because, them in a variety of avors,
a host of other ingredients, he says, Sobrang buo yung including the more unusual
whether pork, squid, shrimp, avor niya. The meat was mochi, cheese, squid ink, and
assorted vegetables, and the really fresh. B1 oor, 2-1-18 even trufe. Lui raves, The This December 8,
list goes on. Piolo loved the Minamimori-machi, Kita-ku, fusion of octopus meat and watch out for Part Two
ambience at this okonomiyaki Osaka squid ink was perfect. This of The Crawl which
restaurant known for its simple creative combination takes Piolo Pascual and
mix of modern okonomiyaki Takoyaki Museum is just brilliant and delicious. his son Iigo to the
and fried yakisoba. It feels Piolo and Lui visited the A must-try when in Japan! northern Thai city of
like home, says Piolo. 2-8-3 Takoyaki Museum for a Universal City Walk, Osaka Chiang Mai for more
Tsukamoto, Yodogawa-ku, comprehensive tour of the culinary discoveries.
Osaka avorful world of takoyaki. At the end of the crawl, Follow LifestyleTVPH
These balls are made with a Piolo declares, Ang sarap ng on Facebook and
YakiYaki Takoju our-egg batter and typically experience. You get to really @lifestyletvph on
Piolo appreciated the lled with octopus, cooked feel like a local, you get to taste Instagram.
takoju tama okonomiyaki in special takoyaki molds, how they prepare their food,

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 13


TASTING | finds

NEW HOLIDAY MENU


AT GUEVARRAS
Known for their sumptuous buffets,
Chefs Roland and Jackie Laudico
welcome guests to their restaurant,
Guevarras by Chef Laudico, with their
spectacular holiday offerings. The menu
features old favorites and new creations,
from melt-in-your-mouth Beef Morcon
to Christmas Paella lled with sliced
liempo, chicken and Spanish chorizo.
Christmas colors come alive in dishes
like Christmas Macaroni Salad and Fish
Mayonesa. Distinctly Filipino-inspired
desserts include scrumptious puto
bumbong, uffy bibingka, Christmas
Suman Fruitcake, and their unique take
on Classic Christmas Pudding. 38
P. Guevarra corner Argonnes Streets,
NEW HOLIDAY FARE (From left) Beef Morcon; Addition Hills, San Juan, Facebook:
Christmas Suman Fruitcake; Puto Bumbong GuevarrasRestaurant

NOT JUST CUPCAKES AT


J. CUPPACAKES
Best known for its Instagram-
worthy cupcakes, J. Cuppacakes
is fast becoming a sought-after
event or party venue. Beautifully
decorated and conveniently located,
the cake shop/restaurant is perfect
for christenings and bridal and
baby showers, to birthday parties,
tea parties and even engagement
parties, starting from ten persons
and up. Menus can be customized to
suit clients themes or preferences.
J. Cuppacakes also offers off-site
catering and event styling services,
customized cakes and cupcakes,
dessert buffet spreads and giveaways
for parties and festivities. SM Jazz
Mall, Nicanor Garcia corner Jupiter
Streets, Bel-Air, Makati City, (0917)
500-0864, ask@jcuppacakes.com,
www.jcuppacakes.com

FRIED CHICKEN
WITHOUT THE GUILT
Nothings harder to resist than crispy fried
chicken with a thin, crisp coating and tender
juicy meat. Thats why Kenny Rogers OMG
Unfried Chicken is such a happy discovery.
Cooked using an innovative oil-free cooking
method, its mouthwatering without the guilt,
so you can sink your teeth into those crunchy
wings and get all the avor without holding
back. Theyre also served with an array of
healthy side dishes. Available at Kenny
Rogers Roasters nationwide

14 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


DRINK
FANTASTIC SPANISH WINES NATURAL FRUIT JUICES IN
Cava is Spains answer to champagnedry, light, bubbly and absolutely APPLE AND GRAPE
refreshing. Our favorite cava of the moment is Brut Nature Collita from Cellers Everything about Great Lakes fruit juices is
de Can Suriol del Castell in Catalonia. Pale yellow in color, it has a light oral all-naturalno articial coloring, avors or
aroma, a soft nose with hints of white fruits, and a pleasantly long nish. For sweeteners. After introducing its original
Spanish reds, we like the Envinate Albahra from the Castile-La Mancha- avors, Fruit and Vegetable Mix and
Murcia region. Made with 100% Garnacha Tintorera grapes, its deep, dark Tropical Fruit Mix, Great Lakes now offers
and earthy, and will complement dishes like paella and roasted meats. For a two new refreshing avors. Pure Pressed
lighter red, we recommend Celler del Roure Setze Gallets from Valencia. This Apple is made from 100% apple juice.
medium-bodied red tastes slightly of licorice with herbal, balsamic notes, and Cloudy in color because of the ber from
has a subtle creaminess. Available at Sommelier Selection, Jannov Plaza, the apples, it tastes quite different from
2295 Don Chino Roces Avenue Extension, Magallanes, Makati City, (02) 840- regular apple juice, not too sweet or too
3816, Facebook: sommelierselection bitter. Just Right Red Grape, on the other
hand, is made with 50% grape juice and
sweetened with stevia for that just right
taste. Available in major supermarkets
and convenience stores nationwide

SHOP
SALTY AND SWEET IDEAS FROM UFC
Unilever Foodsolutions introduces two one-step products
one salty and the other sweetthat save labor and time in
the kitchen without sacricing avor. Capitalizing on the
salted egg trend, Knorr Golden Salted Egg Powder can be
mixed into custards, stir-fried with prawns, made into a batter
for fried chicken, and much more. It is made with the best
quality egg yolks for better avor, color
and aroma. For a sweet touch, Knorr
Rock Sugar Honey Sauce is made from
premium yellow rock sugar and real
honey, and can be used as a base
for glazed spareribs, SUPER GOODS WITH A MISSION
marmite With its new Super Goods line, Rustans promotes social
chicken, or enterprise products that help local communities and support
anything sustainable living. These include Human Nature personal
you dream care products, Bayani Brew beverages, Theo & Philo
of cooking. chocolates, Holy Carabao organic rice, Dr. Gerrys coconut
For more jam and nectar syrup, Sabanana banana chips, Hineleban
information, coffee, Hope in a Bottle and Wellness Water, among others.
visit www. Rustans partnered with one of the countrys largest nation-
ufs.com building movements, Gawad Kalinga (GK) and leading social
enterprise, Human Nature, to help curate the products.
Visit www.rustansfresh.com for a list of branches, and follow
rustansfresh on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 15


sweet stuff
By Joey E. Prats

THE PERFECT
BUNDT
The simplicity and elegance
of this wonderful German-
style cake make it our go-to
dessert for the holidays
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO

M
y favorite time of year is
upon us once again. As early
as September, my kitchen is
transformed into a haven of
the most delicious desserts
which I lovingly create for my family,
friends, students and customers. Despite
the allure of a sophisticated multitiered
cake, I opted to keep it simple this 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Spray a smooth, homogenous mixture.
year with a tangy, buttery, exquisite 12-cup bundt pan with nonstick baking 9. Scrape batter into prepared bundt
lemon bundt cake. The word bundt VSUD\ DQG VSULQNOH ZLWK RXU pan. Bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes,
(pronounced boont) comes from the 2. Combine lemon juice, lemon zest, or until a wooden pick inserted in the
German, which means a gathering, vanilla extract and buttermilk in a center of the cake comes out clean.
and ostensibly, came from the late 17th medium bowl. Whisk until blended. 10. Cool cake in pan for 15 minutes, and
century when the Turks were defeated 3. &RPELQH DOOSXUSRVH RXU EDNLQJ then turn out onto an oiled cooling rack.
just outside the gates of Vienna. The SRZGHU EDNLQJ VRGD DQG QH VHD VDOW LQ Cool 15 minutes, just until cake is warm.
defeated Sultan inspired the creation of a large bowl. Whisk until blended. 11. Pour half of the glaze (recipe below)
a cake in the shape of his turban, called 4. Combine whole eggs and egg yolk in over the warm cake and let cool for
a bundt kuchen. a small bowl. Whisk until blended. 1 hour. Pour remaining glaze evenly
5. Combine unsalted butter and caster over top of cake and continue to cool
sugar in a mixer bowl. Using the paddle to room temperature. Use a very sharp,
Lemon Bundt Cake attachment, mix on low speed for 2 thin knife to slice the cake.
Serves 12 minutes. Scrape down bowl. Switch to
medium speed and mix for 8 minutes. GLAZE:
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon freshly Scrape down bowl. 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed
squeezed lemon juice, strained 6. With mixer on medium speed, add lemon juice
 WDEOHVSRRQV QHO\ JUDWHG OHPRQ ]HVW eggs in 3 batches, mixing very well FXSVFRQIHFWLRQHUVVXJDUVLIWHG
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract after each addition. Scrape down bowl.
3/4 cup liquid buttermilk (or 1/2 cup + 7. Switch to low speed and add 1/3 Combine lemon juice and confectioners
3 tablespoons fresh whole milk + 1 RI RXU PL[WXUH IROORZHG E\  RI sugar in a medium bowl. Whisk until
WDEOHVSRRQ GLVWLOOHG ZKLWH YLQHJDU buttermilk mixture, mixing just until smooth.
 FXSV DOOSXUSRVH RXU incorporated after each addition. Scrape
 WHDVSRRQ EDNLQJ SRZGHU down bowl. Repeat the process using According to Chef Joey, this bundt cake stays
 WHDVSRRQ EDNLQJ VRGD KDOI RI UHPDLQLQJ RXU PL[WXUH DQG moist for days and opens itself to a host of
 WHDVSRRQ QH VHD VDOW all the remaining buttermilk mixture. accompaniments such as fresh fruits, a dollop
 ODUJH ZKROH HJJV 6FUDSH GRZQ ERZO $GG UHPDLQLQJ RXU of whipped cream or a cup of eggnog. To learn
 ODUJH HJJ \RON mixture and mix until blended, about more of Chef Joeys pastry secrets, visit Joey Prats
1 cup + 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 15 seconds. School of Baking and Pastry Arts on Facebook
softened but still cool 8. Remove bowl from mixer and fold for his schedule of lifestyle cooking and baking
 FXSV FDVWHU VXJDU batter with a rubber spatula to make classes and his three-month Fundamentals of
sure batter is well mixed and you have a Baking and Pastry Arts course.

16 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


wellness
By Gerry H. Tan, MD, FACP, FACE, FPCP, FPSEM

EAT
MERRY
AND
SENSIBLY
Healthy reminders for a happier holiday
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA
Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA

C
hristmas is always a time to look forward
to with pleasure. Its the season to reunite
with friends and family, the time when loved
ones living abroad come home to celebrate
Christmas the Filipino way. That means, of
course, lots of food!
This may not be the best season to be health
conscious, but being aware of what we can and
should eat will help us better deal with the post-
holiday blues that inevitably come after all the
merriment. Here are several important tips and
reminders to help you keep track of what is best for
your health during the endless partying:

1. Snack before you party. I usually munch


on nuts of all kinds. That way, Im not too hungry at the start
of the meal. You can allow yourself to be more conscious of 4. Stay away from extras. Avoid the temptation of
what to eat during a buffet-style sumptuous meal. Start with indulging in bread before a meal, or ice cream and pastries
fruits, followed by soup, before indulging in the main course. afterwards. They are just added calories! Instead, delight in
By doing so, you give your mind time to settle down so you fresh fruits and nuts before or after the meal.
stave off your hunger pangs and can enjoy every bite of the
main dish. Eating when youre hungry is a sure way of gaining 5. Enjoy just one plateful of healthy food. No need
more weight. to go for a second serving if you can avoid it. Instead, prolong
the time you nish your food by indulging in conversation
2. Scout the buffet before you decide what to eat. and water in between bites. Thats what the holidays are all
And always go for the unusual and special. Refrain from those about anywaycatching up with loved ones about what has
dishes that you habitually eat or cook at home. Go for a dish been and what will likely be for the year to come.
that is worth the calories!
Remember, the season is all about enjoying the holidays with
3. Limit your drinks. Alcohol, fruit juices, sodas and your friends and family. Food is just an added bonus.
iced teas are all laden with calories because they are made of
simple sugars. Choose instead the old, reliable, no frills, zero- Dr. Gerry is a Mayo Clinic-trained endocrinologist based in Cebu. Visit his
calorie ice-cold water. website at www.docgerrytan.com

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 17


key ingredient
By Jill F. Sandique

BANANAS
MAKE IT
BETTER
Use this versatile
bananas inorescence,
commonly known as
tropical fruit in a banana heart, is used
in cooking, especially
caramel walnut treat kare-kare. Banana
that you can serve at leaves are used as
your next party or a pan liner for rice
cakes like bibingka
give as a homemade and puto, or as a handy
holiday gift receptacle for food.
The pseudostem or
Photography by trunk can be used
PAULO VALENZUELA

B
as a substitute for
plates. Some regions
ananas grow in the south also use
abundantly in tropical the young, innermost
countries like the part of the trunk as an
Philippines, both in ingredient for special
backyards or in large dishes.
plantations. So whatever In this recipe, I
the time of the year, youll highly recommend
nd this starchy fruit in most Cubana and nilaga. Banana Cavendish are often eaten the use of ripe Cavendish
Filipino homes. varieties like saba, cardaba or on their own. The latter two bananas not only for avor
Very rich in potassium, tindok are best when cooked, types are also used for baking but also for aroma. It is best
bananas can be served as a usually boiled, sweetened, cakes, breads and loaves. to serve these squares warm,
dessert, cooked as a snack, or or added to guinataang In the Philippines, its topped with vanilla or coffee
used as an accompaniment to halo-halo. Sweet bananas not just the banana fruit ice cream, and drizzled with
savory dishes like arroz a la like latundan, lacatan, and that is consumed. The more caramel sauce.

Banana Walnut 1. Preheat oven to 325F. 5. Pour batter into the sugar in a heavy saucepan.
Caramel Squares Grease and line a 9 x 13 x SUHSDUHG SDQ DQG EDNH IRU &RRN RYHU PHGLXPKLJK
Makes 24 to 32 2-inch rectangular pan with 35 to 40 minutes, or until heat for 15 minutes or until
parchment paper. Set aside. GRQH &RRO FDNH IRU  amber in color.
1/2 cup unsalted butter 2. In a bowl, cream together minutes and remove from 2. Remove from heat and
1 cup + 2 tablespoons butter, sugar and vanilla SDQ 7UDQVIHU WR D ZLUH UDFN DGG KHDY\ FUHDP 6WLU EULH\
granulated sugar extract until light. Add the and cool completely. DQG UHWXUQ WR KHDW &RRN IRU
1 teaspoon vanilla extract eggs one at a time, beating 6. 'UL]]OH FDNH ZLWK FDUDPHO another 3 minutes or until
2 large eggs well after each addition. sauce (recipe below). Top bubbly.
1 1/4 cups mashed ripe 3. In a small bowl, mix with chopped walnuts, 3. Strain caramel sauce into
bananas, about 4 pieces, together the mashed if desired. Allow caramel a clean bowl and chill in an
preferably Cavendish bananas and sour cream. WR VHW WKHQFXWFDNHLQWR ice bath.
variety 6HW DVLGH EULH\ squares.
2/3 cup sour cream 4. Meanwhile, sift together If walnuts are unavailable, Chef Jill
2 cups sifted all-purpose WKH RXU EDNLQJ VRGD DQG CARAMEL SAUCE : says you may substitute cashew
RXU salt. Add the dry ingredients 1/4 cup unsalted butter nuts, almonds or peanuts, or you
1 teaspoon baking soda to the creamed butter 3/4 cup granulated sugar may omit completely. Chef Jill is a
culinary consultant, a lead trainor
1 teaspoon iodized salt mixture, alternating with 1/2 cup heavy cream for the United States Department of
chopped walnuts, lightly the mashed bananas and Agriculture and the owner of Delize
toasted, optional sour cream. Blend well. 1. Put together butter and Cakes and Pastries.

18 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Homegrown
By Tatung Sarthou

TORTA OF
DAYS PAST
Remembering this old-fashioned cake
from the historic town of Argao in Cebu
3KRWRJUDSK\ E\ PAULO VALENZUELA
)RRGVW\OLQJ E\ NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN

T
he word torta means cake in Spanish and
Latin. So dont be disappointed that this
Torta Argao is not the eggplant dish, tortang
talong. Instead, its a rich and avorful cake
made with egg yolks, pork lard, our, sugar
and leavened naturally with tuba or coconut toddy
that gives it a lightly tangy avor.
This famous cake comes from the old town of
Argao in Cebu province. Though lled with modern
establishments, Argao keeps its Old World charm,
giving us glimpses of a bygone era. Known in the
past as El Pueblo Hispano Antiguo de Argao or
simply the Cabecera de Argao (town center of
Argao), Argao was built between 1803 and 1836,
according to the Spanish crowns blueprint of its
settlements. It served as the perfect backdrop to the
San Miguel Archangel Parish Church completed
earlier in 1788. To build the town, locals were put
into forced labor or polo imposed by the friars. The
church and other structures were built with coral
stones quarried from the nearby sea and cemented Torta Argao 4. 3RXU LQWR SUHSDUHG SDQV /HW
together with an obscene amount of egg whites. Serves 24 UHVW LQ D ZDUP SODFH DQG DOORZ WR
Luckily, the townsfolk found a delicious use for the ULVH IRU  WR  KRXUV EHIRUH EDNLQJ
thousands of discarded egg yolks in recipes such as 24 egg yolks 7KH FRROHU WKH URRP WKH ORQJHU LW
tocino del cielo and torta. The making of the torta 1 1/2 cups pork lard ZLOO WDNH %DNH LQ D r) RYHQ IRU
alone required hundreds of egg yolks at a time. 3 cups sugar  WR  PLQXWHV RU XQWLO GRQH
Like Argaos church, the torta is a living legacy   FXSV DOOSXUSRVHRXU 5. $OORZ torta WR FRRO WKHQ EUXVK
of the era and, like our faith, the torta has had to 2 cups tuba ZLWK EXWWHU DQG VSULQNOH ZLWK
adapt to the times. Today, its a popular delicacy 1/4 teaspoon salt ZKLWHVXJDUDQGUDLVLQVLIXVLQJ
mass-produced in bakeries around town that use 1 teaspoon anise seeds
baking powder in place of tuba which needs at 1 cup raisins, or less for topping, CHEFS NOTE: If tuba is not
least eight hours for the batter to rise before its optional available, you can substitute with
ready to be baked in a hurno or clay oven. Today, melted butter, for topping 2 cups water plus 1 tablespoon
the hurno has been replaced by the gas oven, while white sugar, for topping baking powder.
commercial shortening has replaced the original
pork lard in the recipe. 1. *UHDVH  LQFK XWHG SDQV
Growing up in Cebu, I enjoyed old-fashioned DQG OLQH ZLWK EDNLQJ SDSHU 6HW
Torta Argao. There was richness in every crumb, DVLGH Chef Tatung suggests eating Torta Argao
with a cup of rich VLNZDWL or native hot
and a hint of savory under the sweetness from the 2. ,Q D PL[LQJ ERZO EHDW HJJ \RONV chocolate. You can catch him every week
sugar, the tubas light fermentation and the aroma DQG ODUG ZKLOH VORZO\ DGGLQJ VXJDU cooking up a storm on 8PDJDQJ .D\
of the anise seeds. My grandmother would store WR DHUDWH *DQGD on Channel 2. The author of the
these in emptied biscuit cans and they stayed good 3. 6ORZO\ LQFRUSRUDWH RXU tuba bestselling book 3KLOLSSLQH &RRNHU\
)URP +HDUW WR 3ODWWHU he recently opened
for weeks at a time. As it aged, the torta developed VDOW DQG DQLVH VHHGV LQWR WKH IURWK\ Agos in SM Mall of Asia, a restaurant that
an aroma akin to ham-bacon because of the pork HJJ \RONV$GGUDLVLQVLIXVLQJ0L[ offers a Filipino-Hispanic menu inspired by
lard in the recipe. ZHOO the galleon trade.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 19


the best new eats in town

Where to
dine next?
Check out
our guide
to whats
new and
noteworthy
in the
restaurant
scene

Darling Downs Wagyu MS 5+ rib eye from


Queensland with a side of Grilled Asparagus
with hollandaise sauce and macadamia nuts

20 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


RAGING BULL
30th
CHOPHOUSE & BAR Street
corner 5th
Shangri-La at the Fort pulled out all the Avenue, Bonifacio
Global City, (02) 820-
stops to create a top caliber restaurant that 0888, www.shangri-
checks all the boxes: powerhouse menu, la.com/fort
spectacular drinks list, and plush retro-classic interiors that instantly make us feel at
home. We start with one of Raging Bulls signature cocktails before checking out the
main attractionthe steaks, of course. The selection of mostly Australian grass and grain-
fed premium cuts range from, for example, a Cape Grim grass-fed Tasmanian tenderloin to
a Darling Downs Wagyu MS 5+ grass-raised, grain-nished ribeye from Queenslandall
expertly grilled in a Josper oven. Were pampered with a choice of sides (perhaps Japanese
pumpkin with sage and pine nuts or classic potato gratin with Gruyre) and sauces, a
selection of sea salts and mustards, and yes, even designer steak knives. The rest of the menu
is equally enticing, whether its Maryland Crab Cake or Beetroot Salad with honey glazed CLASSICS MADE MODERN (Clockwise from
walnuts and goat cheese, or else, rack of lamb or whole Boston lobster grilled in the Josper. top left) Maryland Crab Cake with charred
orange, aioli and palm heart; Pistachio
Raging Bull offers the best of both worldsit has the essence of a ne dining restaurant Crme Brle with a mint-infused
without the stufness and formality. Instead, the experience leaves us fully satised and strawberry salad; a beautifully composed
ready to plan our next visit back. Anne rie O et Beetroot Salad with roasted beetroot,
garden leaves, honey glazed walnuts and

TASTE OF asiA
goat cheese

IZAKAYA SENSU

E
very plate that comes out character, while keeping its
of the kitchen at Izakaya innovations in the food and
Sensu is beautiful to service.
behold. Glimmering Standouts on the
G/F
golden uni, shiny Net Park, menu include the Sensu
slices of sashimi, 28th Street Omakase Special,
rosy salmon, corner 5th which features 11
Avenue, BGC
creamy octopus kinds of sashimi; the
and more. The fresh Sensu Kowari Kusu with
ICONIC STREET FOOD )URP OHIW $ YHU\ DYRUIXO &OD\SRW
sushi and sashimi alone skewers of chicken breast Rice; Singapore Chili Crabs; gummy Oyster Omelet
are reason enough to return and various Japanese sauces;
again and again to this hip the selection of yakitori, MAKANSUTRA

E
yet casual new watering bento boxes, small-bite
hole in BGC. Izakaya Sensu karaage, especially the veryone is talking impressive, 2/F
SM
was conceptualized by The sichimi age (fried chicken about Makansutra, the from the Megamall
Raintree Groups Andrej hearts and gizzard with Singaporean street food pricey Building A,
Wisniewski as modern Japanese 7-spice), which mecca created by K.F. Seetoh, Singaporean Mandaluyong
City
Japanese meets tapas dining. go perfectly with beer or and transplanted to Manila Chili Crabs to
This dual concept style and cocktails. Or even a shot of with his partners JJ Yulo more humble but
menu works by managing to artisanal sake, also on the and Him Uy de Baron. The delicious offerings, among
retain its uniquely Japanese menu. Troy Barrios space features 12 handpicked which we loved Ah Tees
stalls serving their signature signature Oyster Omelette
dishes amid the frenzied vibe, with plump, briny oysters
the smoke and noise that and a vinegar dip; Geyland
mimic the iconic ambience Claypot Rices Tofu with
of the original. In addition Prawns; and Curry Flurrys
to kiosks from well-known Roti Prata set, this is fried
Singaporean establishments our pancake with curry
such as Donald & Lily, sauce. Every dish is prepared
there are stalls that garnered from scratch, cooked la
high points from the recent minute, so you get it at its
World Street Food Congress best. Street food is easy to
in Manila. Street food from sell, explains JJ Yulo, because
China, India, Indonesia and its fast and casual, humble
Malaysia are also represented. and delicious. We agree.
LIKE JEWELS ON A PLATE (From left) Sensu Omakase The range of cuisine is T.B.
Special, eleven kinds of sushi selected by the chef; the spicy,
salsa-style Tomato Ae-Soba

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 21


FOOD & ART
2-B,
80
Maginhawa
LUNG HIN Street, Teachers
Village East, Quezon
NEGATIVE SPACE City, (02) 950-

Y
This holiday season, Executive Chef 6571, Facebook:
Raymond Yeung infuses new life into ou either love coffee or you are wrong. Choose a side, reads negativespacecafe
the already exquisite menu of Lung Hin one of the framed signs at this eclectic caf and art space that
with his reinvented Cantonese classics serves different kinds of cuisines. Its become a favorite among
which are lighter and more delicate students and young professionals in the UP Diliman-Maginhawa area. It features
than your usual Chinese fare. We were specialty coffees, from at whites to cortados to long blacks, as well as ones choice
particularly impressed with his Chicken of pour over, siphon, and French press using their selection of single-origin coffee
Consomm with Chrysanthemum beans. The menu reads like a creative map detailing the owners travels, from the
Tofu and Matsutake Mushroom, which UK (think full English Breakfast Cupcakes served with thick chips and beans)
features crystal-clear, deeply avored to Japan (try the aky croissants lled with matcha cream, and the Ochazuke,
chicken consomm in which a block of Japanese rice swimming in green tea topped with your choice of grilled sh,
silken tofu has been meticulously cut chicken strips and dried bonito akes), to Singapore (we recommend the Ginger
into a complex chrysanthemum shape. Chicken Lettuce Wraps, their different take on Hainanese chicken, and their
In Chinese cuisine, the technique of Cereal Prawns, buttery oat prawns with curry leaves and chili). Those who fancy
making consomm is actually thousands themselves as artists can join their loose watercolor portrait painting workshops
of years old, pre-dating even that of the and lino block printing classes. The biggest draw, however, is their in-house dog, a
French, says Yeung, who has over 20 beautiful Akita Inu named Akatsuki, who is slightly camera-shy but is very friendly
years of culinary experience. Theres with customers and guests. Ginny Mata
also his beautifully
44/F
presented Crystal Marco
Duck Terrine Polo Ortigas
starter, with its Manila, (02) 720-
7777, Facebook:
smooth aspic layer MarcoPolo
complementing OrtigasManila
a rich duck liver
and meat base. Other
delicious dishes include Steamed King
Prawn with Steamed Egg, Deep-fried
Lapu-lapu with Sliced Mango and TRAVEL THE WORLD ON YOUR PLATE (From
OHIW $Q HFOHFWLF VSUHDG RI DOO WKLQJV PDWFKDDN\
Sweet Chili Sauce, and Fried Rice with FURLVVDQWVOOHGZLWKPDWFKDFUHDP
Asparagus and Five Spice Pork. Lung
Hins Homemade Snow Skin Mooncake
is unlike any mooncake weve ever had.
HEY HANDSOME

I
These pretty thin-skinned ower-like
cakes lled with lotus bean paste are the f youre a fan of Your Local in Makati, you
perfect ending to the meal. G.M. will enjoy Hey Handsome, Chef Nicco
Santos second restaurant, which showcases
his evolution as a chef and as an artist. The
menu is a very concise selection of Southeast
Asian-inspired dishes, with a strong bent
towards Peranakan or Nyonya
G/F
cuisine, and for the most part Net Park,
consists of main dishes that are fun 5th Avenue,
to share. Bonifacio
Global City
A vegetarian Beetroot Paneer,
for example, proves irresistible with
its slightly sweet pink curry accompanied
by tart yogurt and quinoa tabboulehan
unusual favorite for a carnivore like me.
Whats described as a Peranakan version
EXCELLENT
CANTONESE of nasi lemak proves to be Sea Bass Otah, a
FUSION(Clockwise, ground sh cake served with coconut rice
from top left) Light and spicy sambal. Charsiu is roast pork with CRAZY BUT
yet creamy Steamed GOOD (From
King Prawn Iberico glaze, mushrooms, lo mai, kai-lan and
top) Vegetarian
with Steamed egg wrapped in foil and boiled for exactly Beetroot
Egg Soup; Chef
Raymond Yeung;
4 minutes and 35 seconds and served in the Paneer; a very
modern Nasi
delicate Chicken shape of a ower. As you can see, every dish Lemak; House
Consomm with is an adventure. The tiny space is casual Yogurt with
Chrysanthemum black sesame
Tofu and Matsutake and eclectic, but the food and service are
and beetroot
Mushroom; gold crafted to precision. This is one of the most
leaf on the steamed intriguing restaurants to open in Manila this
king prawn
year. T.B.

22 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


TRADITIONAL DINING OUT
COMFORTS
CAZUELA L I B AT I O N

C
S TAT I O N S
azuela, which opened as a hip loft
space in Ortigas, celebrates the Its after work.
avors of our Spanish colonial Head to one of
experience through its food. Cazuela
refers to the claypot traditionally used
these places, roll
in cooking Spanish standards such as up your sleeves,
lengua, croquetas and bacalao. And all loosen your
these dishes are certainly on the menu, neckties and
and very well executed too. The
G/F bottoms up
star is arguably the Callos, The
a tender stewed ox tripe in Sapphire Bloc,
Sapphire Road, CHOTTO MATTE,
tomato sauce, sure to impress.
Ortigas Center, right next door to sister
Theres also Veal Caldereta, Pasig City restaurant Izakaya
a hefty veal shank stewed and
Sensu, is where to go
slow-simmered in tomato sauce
for artisanal Japanese
until thick and tasty, and served on a
sake, craft beers and
bed of crisp potatoes.
cocktails. Our favorite:
We recommend the ON BOARD THE GALLEON TRADE the Suntory Kakubin
signature paellas and salads, (From top) Spanish-themed motifs
are evident in Cazuelas interiors; Highball, is just blended
to be enjoyed with a carafe of
Paella Negra and Paella Cazuela; whisky, soda water and
sangria or mojito. And dont the sangria; Baby Squid al Ajillo
fresh lemon. Simple,
miss the dessert offerings
refreshing, elegant.
Kesong Puti Cheesecake,
G/F Net Park, 28th
Gypsy Cake or the traditional
Street corner 5th Avenue,
Churros con Chocolate.
Bonifacio Global City
Cazuela is a collaboration
between the MonDay group
of chefs, with Chef Andre
Soriano heading the kitchen. BITTERS BAR feels
The approach is traditional like it has a resident
slow cooking, from the Old apothecary in the back
World to the New. T.B. of house mixing the
drinks, theyre that good.
RER Get one of the signature
(St. cocktails. We like the
Pio Church)
CUCINA DI FRANCESCO Compound, E.
Rodriguez Jr. Avenue,
Parisian Ale, with gin,
elderower liqueur,
Praying and eating is what one does at Even more inspiring, Libis, Quezon City, ginger ale and sage
(0917) 549-0486,
this brand new community caf beside the Cucina di Francesco (0917) 522-7673 served in a beaker.
serene St. Padre Pio Church. At this homey, hires differently-abled A7/B8, Burgos Parklane,
three-story caf, devotees can partake of teens and adults to work Forbestown Road,
a menu packed with Italian favorites that at the caf, in collaboration Bonifacio Global City
pay homage to the beloved Italian friar and with Chef Waya Wijangco of Open Hand
saint. Theres bruschetta, panini, stromboli, School for Applied Arts. One of the cafs
gnocchi, brick-oven pizzas, plus lots of pasta, visions is to engage guests and employees BELLE & DRAGON
too. Classic Italian entres include Chicken in relevant projects with and for the has six taps of
Saltimbocca, Italian Beef Stew and Seafood neighborhood. At this caf with a mission, microbrews, which make
Cioppino, while desserts go from Mousse al you get to eat, pray and, feed the soul as it a beer lovers haven.
Ciocolatto to Pannacotta. You can also buy well. A.M.O. But their cocktails are
homemade breads and pastries to take home. excellent as well. We
are partial to the Pedro
craft beers on tap, but do
try one of their classics.
Were pretty fond of the
martini served with two
olives, not one. Nice.
G/F C Palanca Building,
100 Carlos Palanca
Street, Legaspi Village,
Makati

ITALIAN FAVORITES (From left) Pizza Picante; Mousse al Cioccolatto; and Pesto Chicken with Carrot Noodles

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 23


Food and
Family
Create new food memories with a holiday
table brimming with special dishes to
feed and bring joy to loved ones
By MARICRIS B. ENCARNACION
Photography by JC INOCIAN
Recipes by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ and CHRISTINE PAREDES
Food styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ | Set styling by NINI FALCON

24 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


I
grew up in a family where food was at me to use my eyes and my nose to holidays; planning a menu lled with
the center of celebration. Food wasnt taste. He made me sit and be still, to both the traditional and the new;
just about eating. It was time spent relish the quiet and yes, to feel the love relishing the communal activity of
together shopping for ingredients and while taking in all that delicious smoke. cooking with my sister and everyone
cooking in the kitchen. He taught me that cooking was never else who dares to enter the kitchen.
My mother was a shopper, and so about slaving away in the kitchen. It It is a time to remember the food at
she would drag me, her eldest child, to was not a chore; it was a privilege. our parents table. It is also a time to
wet markets teeming with just-picked Thanks to my parents, I cook with introduce new avors weve discovered
vegetables, the freshest seafood, live joy. It makes me happy to nourish through travel, to create new food
chickens and meat hanging on hooks. my family, friends and the occasional memories and traditions that our
She would glare at me when I would get stranger no matter how tired I get. I children can pass on to their own. More
squeamish over the smell and the mud. look forward to cooking during the than anything, it is a time to be thankful
No matter that I was only six or seven. for our blessings; to sit at a table lled
She introduced me to the concept of with food that we enjoy, surrounded by
the invaluable sukithe vendor that the people we love.
she went to regularly, the one who Food and family for Christmas.
guaranteed that she got only top quality There is no greater gift.
produce at the best possible price.
My father, on the other hand, was
the weekend and special occasion cook.
A believer in the virtue of patience,
he paid homage to slow cooking every
time he took to a pot. He enjoyed
cooking with wood and even built a
wood-burning stove in our backyard.
He started many of our dinners in the
morning, completely relaxed, nursing
his Scotch while his stew was at a slow
simmer. He often beckoned me to come
close, holding up the pot lid, teaching

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 25


Lechon Belly Roast
Lechon is the ultimate celebration food in any Filipino table and for good
reason. It is impressive, it can feed a crowd and it tastes like a party in your
mouth. But (there is always a but), it is expensive and needs to be ordered
and picked up from a lechonero that is probably in La Loma or Marikina or
Paraaque, because no one delivers during the holidays. Unless you are one
of those who can roast an entire pig in a pit in your yard, a roasted lechon
belly or boneless lechon is the next best thing. It is crucial that you choose
a slab that has nice, almost even, multiple layers of meat and fat, and that
any rib bones have been removed by your butcher. If you want a crackly
skin on your lechon belly, pierce the skin surface with a pin just before
roasting, keeping it shallow and taking care not to penetrate into the fat
layer underneath the skin. Before returning the belly to a 400F oven for its
QDOPLQXWHVVSULQNOHZLWKZDWHUXVLQJ\RXUQJHUVRUDVSUD\ERWWOH

26 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Bulalo Sotanghon Soup
The simplicity of boiled fall-off-the-bone beef shanks,
knee caps that come apart with the gelatinous cartilage
still attached, bone marrow that quivers, and piping hot
soup is the stuff that comfort food is made of. Bulalo was
RQFH LGHQWLHG ZLWK WKH SURYLQFH RI %DWDQJDV EXW LW KDV
since been claimed by the rest of the country as its own.
Simmering the knee caps gently for hours produces a milky
broth that is earthy and hearty. The addition of sotanghon
to bulalo transforms the dish into a noodle soup that can
compete with the likes of Japanese ramen and Vietnamese
pho. Make sure you blanch the sotanghon separately. Since
the noodles absorb liquid like a sponge, doing otherwise
will leave you with very little soup. For a healthier version
of this soup, cool and refrigerate the beef broth overnight.
All the fat will solidify at the top and you can discard it
easily. Remember though, that in doing so, you will be
VDFULFLQJVRPHRILWVDYRU,WLVQHYHUDSHUIHFWZRUOG

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 27


Seafood Curry Sotanghon
Sotanghon guisado is a popular way of cooking sotanghon noodles, where the
glass noodles are stir-fried together with chicken, meat, seafood, vegetables
and mushrooms. Everyone has their own version, proving that sotanghon
is such a versatile ingredient. For the holidays, why not tweak your usual
pancit with a distinctly Asian twist, using Sapporo Long Kow vermicelli. This
recipe calls for Thai Panang (Phanaeng or Penang) curry paste which has a
VDOW\VZHHWQXWW\SHDQXWDYRUDQGDWKLFNDQGFUHDP\FRQVLVWHQF\<RX
can replace the Panang curry with regular Thai red curry paste if any of your
guests have a peanut allergy. Several brands of Thai curry pastes are sold
at major supermarkets. My personal preference is the Blue Elephant brand
which uses the best quality herbs and spices, following traditional recipes and
produced under strict standards of hygiene. If, however, you want to remain
strictly Filipino for the holidays, you can replace the curry paste with crab fat
or talangka paste and amp up the citrus with calamansi or lemon.

28 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Bulalo Sotanghon SEAFOOD STOCK : UHFLSH DERYH salt and arrange onion leeks
Soup 4 cups water 1/4 cup thick coconut cream in the middle. Roll belly
Recipe by Tina Diaz 2 stalks lemongrass, with juice of 2 green lemons lengthwise and secure with
Serves 8 to 10 roots pounded salt and pepper, to taste kitchen twine.
4 stalks onion leeks 3. 3UHKHDW RYHQ WR r)
2 to 3 kilos beef shanks, 1 large white onion, 1. Saut onions, leeks and Place belly roll on a rack
sliced quartered garlic in hot annatto oil. Add with a tray under it. Slow
1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 kilo large shrimp curry paste and continue roast for 6 hours, basting
2 kilos kneecap bones with 1/2 kilo large mussels stirring for a few minutes. the skin with oil drippings
cartilage 3 crabs 2. Pour in seafood stock, and HYHU\  PLQXWHV 6NLQ
12 cups water, or as needed stir to dissolve curry paste. will turn golden brown in
2 large onions, quartered 300 grams Sapporo Long Add coconut cream and WKH UVW IHZ KRXUV EXW ZLOO
1 tablespoon peppercorns, Kow vermicelli (sotanghon green lemon juice. Season still be soft to the touch.
wrapped in a cheesecloth 1/4 cup annatto oil with salt and pepper. Increase temperature to
and secured with twine 1/4 cup butter 400F and roast for another
patis VK VDXFH  WR WDVWH salt and pepper, to taste  PLQXWHV XQWLO VNLQ LV
500 grams Sapporo Long coriander leaves, for garnish COOKS NOTE: crisp. Remove from oven and
Kow vermicelli (sotanghon basil leaves, for garnish To make annatto oil, heat 2 cover loosely with foil.
cups cooking oil in a pan with
3 ears yellow corn, sliced additional annatto oil, to 1 cup annatto seeds. Remove
into rounds drizzle from heat and set aside to
2 stalks onion leeks, cleaned extract the color, for about
and sliced 1. To prepare the seafood 15 minutes. Strain the seeds
and discard. Set aside the oil
1 small head cabbage, sliced stock, place water, until ready to use.
into wedges lemongrass, leeks and SOTANGHON
2 bunches bok choy, leaves onions in a medium pot. AND FAMILY
separated &RYHU DQG OHW VLPPHU IRU  Lechon Belly Roast Sotanghon is also known as
1 bunch French beans minutes. By Tina Diaz glass, cellophane, crystal
2. Bring to a rolling boil, and Serves 10 to 12 or bean thread noodle.
The best quality sotanghon
1. In a large pot, brown beef cook shrimp, mussels and is made from mung
shank slices in hot olive oil. crabs separately. Cook for a 3 kilos whole boneless pork bean starch, sold dried
Remove from pot. few minutes, then remove belly and bunched into white
2. In the same pot, add from stock. Set aside. rectangular nests. When
BRINE :
cooked, the noodles turn
kneecap bones, water, 3. Blanch Sapporo Long Kow clear and translucent with
onions and peppercorns. vermicelli in boiling water 5 lemongrass stalks with a tender but chewy bite.
Bring to a boil and skim for 2 minutes. Drain right bulb They are used mostly in
off the scum. Lower heat away, cut into desired length 5 stalks onion leeks, cleaned Asian cooking, in stir-fries,
and let simmer gently for 4 and toss in annatto oil. Set 2 thumb-size pieces ginger, soups and spring rolls; and
found in both hot and cold
hours or until meat is tender. aside. peeled dishes.
3. Meanwhile, blanch 4. Mix curry sauce (recipe 1 garlic bulb, smashed While Chinese traders
the Sapporo Long Kow below) with blanched 1 tablespoon cracked black UVW LQWURGXFHG sotanghon
vermicelli in boiling water vermicelli and toss until pepper to the Philippines, these
noodles have become
for 5 minutes, then immerse sauce fully coats the 1 packed cup coarse salt part of the Philippine
in iced water to stop the strands. Transfer to a 5 cups water pancit repertoire. But
cooking. Set aside. serving tray. while pancit canton (using
4. Add the corn to the 5. In batches, saut cooked 1 tablespoon light soy sauce egg noodles) and bihon
simmering bone broth in the shrimp, mussels and crabs in onion leeks, sliced (using rice noodles) are
ubiquitous in local street
ODVW  PLQXWHV RI FRRNLQJ melted butter. Season with lengthwise food, sotanghon takes on
Remove the bones. Season salt and pepper. additional salt, to taste an image of being more
with patis. 6. To serve, top noodles with special, appearing in more
5. Add onion leeks, cabbage, shrimp, mussels and crabs. 1. Place pork belly on a tray. upscale restaurants and
celebrations.
bok choy and French beans. Scatter coriander and basil In a blender, put together Symbolic of long life
Cook until slightly wilted. leaves on top. Drizzle with brine ingredients and half of and family ties, sotanghon
6. To serve, place blanched additional annatto oil. the water. Blend until root will always have a place at
Sapporo Long Kow vegetables are shredded. the Filipino table.
vermicelli in a tureen. CURRY SAUCE : Add remaining water and
Sapporo Long Kow
Ladle broth and arrange 1 large onion, minced pour over belly. Cover and vermicelli is available at
beef shank slices, corn and 2 stalks onion leeks, marinate overnight. leading supermarkets
vegetables. chopped 2. Rinse belly under running nationwide. Like Sapporo-
4 cloves garlic, minced water. Pat dry with paper Products-Inc on Facebook or
visit www.sapporoproducts.
Seafood Curry 6 tablespoons annatto oil towels, making sure the com.ph to learn more about
Sotanghon 3 tablespoons Panang curry meat is very dry. Brush other Sapporo noodle
Recipe by Tina Diaz paste or red curry paste meat and skin with light soy products.
Serves 6 to 8 2 1/2 cups seafood stock sauce. Rub meaty side with

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 29


Christine Paredes: A Life in Chocolate
Naked Ube Cake )DPLO\JXUHVDORWLQWKHOLIH affair with chocolate, eating
Ube or purple yam is often used for Filipino and career of chocolatier and an entire bar of Swiss-made
dessertsice cream, cakes, pastries and the ptissier Christine Paredes. Her Lindt chocolate with liqueur.
maternal grandfather was an An HRM graduate of St. Pauls
very popular halaya. It is often referred to as art director and, growing up, College in Quezon City, Chef
ube jam, although it actually is closer to being she discovered that she had an Christine took specialized
a pudding than a jam. Ube is now getting a lot DIQLW\IRUVFXOSWXUHFUHDWLQJ courses in baking and pastry
of attention with the surge in global interest in form with her hands. When she arts at the Culinary Institute
Filipino cuisine, its purple color intriguing, its was four years old, she cooked of America (CIA) at Greystone
pancakes with her mom and in Napa Valley, California,
DYRU XQLTXH <RX FDQ VXEVWLWXWH WKH XQVDOWHG never left the kitchen since where she learned more about
butter and salt with good quality salted butter. then. Her aunt and godmother, chocolate, wedding cakes
If you want your pastillas OOLQJ WR EH HYHQO\ Annie Lim of Chocolate Lover and contemporary cakes. She
creamy instead of having small solid chunks, ZDVKHUUVWWHDFKHUDQGDV subsequently enrolled at the
a child, Chef Christine spent Chocolate Academy Centre
mash all of the pastillas that are to be folded many hours helping in the of Callebaut for advanced
into the buttercream. Or even better, get some kitchen of her aunt. programs in chocolate. Since
pastillas de leche in a jar instead. This cake pairs Chocolate is the love of my then, she has worked as a
well with candied macapuno balls or strips. life, Chef Christine declares. In pastry chef-consultant for many
UVWJUDGHVKHEHJDQKHUORYH restaurants and bakeshops.

30 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Salted Egg Parfaits
Salted egg is making waves these days, becoming one of the trendier
ingredients that has become ubiquitous in so many food items, including the
latest you-just-have-to-try salted egg potato chips. It always has been a
part of the native bibingka, classically paired with kesong puti. Chef Christine
Paredes deconstructs the bibingka and remakes it into a layered dessert that
is both sweet and savory. When serving a crowd, you can use the English
WULH DV LQVSLUDWLRQ DQG DVVHPEOH WKH OD\HUV LQ D ODUJH WULH ERZO ,I SUHVVHG
for time, instead of baking the cheesy butter cake called for in the recipe,
you can use store-bought mamon or a tender butter cake, sprinkling some
grated cheese over the cake layer before you add the salted egg custard.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 31


Naked Ube BUTTERCREAM ICING : Salted Egg Parfaits 8. Decorate the parfaits with
Pastillas Cake  EDU  JUDPV XQVDOWHG Recipe by Christine Paredes HGLEOH RZHUV RU VDOWHGHJJ
Recipe by Christine Paredes butter, room temperature Makes 8 to 10 parfaits and grated cheese.
Makes one 10-inch cake 1/2 cup confectioners
sugar, sifted  FXS  JUDPV SUGAR SYRUP :
1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, 1/4 to 1/3 cup full cream unsalted butter, softened 1 cup white granulated
softened milk, room temperature 2 cups white sugar
3 cups white granulated sugar 1 cup water
granulated sugar 1. Whip butter and 1/2 teaspoon iodized salt
3/4 teaspoon iodized salt confectioners sugar until 4 large eggs, room Boil water and sugar
6 large eggs, room light lemon yellow in color. temperature together until sugar
temperature 2. Add in milk and mix until 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract dissolves. Pour into a spray
3/4 tablespoon ube DYRU fully incorporated into the 1 1/2 cups full cream milk, bottle or a bowl.
1 1/2 cups pandan milk, butter mixture. room temperature
room temperature 3. Save half of the 1 1/4 teaspoons SALTED EGG CUSTARD :
UHFLSH EHORZ buttercream for the pastillas baking powder 4 salted duck egg yolks,
3/4 cup coconut milk OOLQJ 2 1/2 cups all-purpose mashed with a fork
2 teaspoons baking powder RXU VLIWHG 1/2 cup full cream
3 3/4 cups all-purpose PASTILLAS FILLING : 1/2 cup cheddar cheese, condensed milk
RXU VLIWHG 1/2 batch buttercream icing diced 1/4 cup full cream
2 pieces jumbo pastillas, 3 cups whipped cream evaporated milk
1. 3UHKHDW RYHQ WR r) mashed 1/2 cup cooking cream
Grease two 10-inch round 2 pieces jumbo pastillas, 1. 3UHKHDW RYHQ WR r) 1/4 teaspoon iodized salt
baking pans and line with diced Grease two 8-inch round 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
parchment paper. baking pans and line with 2 tablespoons
2. Cream butter, sugar and Whip buttercream icing and parchment paper. unsalted butter
iodized salt. mashed pastillas by hand. 2. Cream butter, sugar and 2 cups whipped cream
3. Add eggs, one at a Fold in diced pastillas. iodized salt. Add in eggs,
time, and mix until fully one at a time and mix until 1. Combine mashed egg
incorporated. UBE GANACHE : fully incorporated. yolks, condensed milk,
4. Add pandan milk, coconut  FXS  JUDPV ZKLWH 3. Add milk and vanilla to evaporated milk, cooking
milk and ube DYRU LQWR WKH chocolate, chopped the mixture, then slowly add cream, salt and vanilla
mixture, then slowly add into small pieces WKH EDNLQJ SRZGHU DQG RXU extract in a stainless bowl.
EDNLQJ SRZGHU DQG RXU %H 1/4 cup full cream milk Be careful not to overmix. 2. Place the bowl over a pot
careful not to overmix. 1 tablespoon coconut cream 4. Fold in diced cheddar of simmering water, making
5. Pour batter into the 2 1 teaspoon ube DYRU cheese into the batter. sure the bowl does not
prepared baking pans and 5. Pour batter into the touch the water in the pot.
bake for 20 to 25 minutes 1. Put chopped white prepared baking pans and 3. Cook the mixture over
in the oven. To check for chocolates in a stainless EDNH IRU  WR  PLQXWHV medium heat, constantly
doneness, a toothpick bowl. Set aside. in the oven. To check for stirring until mixture is thick
inserted in the center of the 2. Combine full cream milk doneness, a toothpick enough to coat the back of a
cakes should have moist and coconut cream in a inserted in the center of spoon. Add butter.
crumbs still clinging to it. microwavable cup and heat the cake should have moist 4. Transfer mixture to a
Toothpick should not come IRU  VHFRQGV WR  PLQXWH crumbs still clinging to it. bowl and cover with plastic
out clean. Allow cakes to at maximum power. Allow the cake to cool then wrap, making sure it directly
cool, then unmold. 3. Add ube DYRU WR WKH cut before assembling. touches the mixture. Allow
6. Place 1 cake on a round hot milk, then immediately 6. Slice the cheesy butter to cool at room temperature.
cake plate. Fill with pastillas pour it over the chopped cake into pieces or cut with 5. Once mixture is throughly
OOLQJ UHFLSH EHORZ  6WDFN chocolates. D FRRNLH FXWWHU WR W WKH cool, whip 2 cups of chilled
the other cake on top. 4. Allow pieces of chocolate parfait glass. Spray or brush whipping cream. Fold in
7. Spread the buttercream to melt in the hot cream the cake pieces with sugar  RI WKH ZKLSSHG FUHDP
icing thinly on the top and for a minute, then whisk syrup (recipe below). into the salted egg mixture.
the sides of the ube cake. until one smooth mixture 7. Pipe the top of the cheesy Once streaks of white are no
Since this is a naked cake, is achieved. Cool at room butter cake with a layer of longer visible, gently fold
the frosting should be quite temperature but do not salted egg custard (recipe in the remaining whipped
thin, with parts of the cake allow to get too thick. below). Then pipe a layer cream.
visible through the frosting. of whipped cream. Top the
8. Pour the ube ganache CHEFS NOTE: To make whipped cream with another
(recipe below) over the ube pandan milk, wash and bruise layer of cheesy butter cake.
cake, allowing the ganache 4 pandan leaves. Over low Repeat the layers until the
to drip down the sides of the heat, simmer pandan leaves top of the parfait glass
in 2 cups full cream milk.
cake. Decorate with edible is reached, with whipped
Steep until cool, then use 1
RZHUV 1/2 cups for the ube cake. cream as the topmost layer.

32 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


EVERYDAY DINNERS

French cooking may be daunting,


but it can be done at homejust ask
these ve chefs who share their love
for France and its glorious cuisine
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA | Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA

I
love the idea that a good French dish is can be very relatable to Filipinos. French country
always a labor of love, requiring time- cooking is very hearty and simple. For example,
honored cooking methods and good the French have pot au feu which is very similar to
ingredients, shares Chef Alexa Alaba of nilaga, she says.
Croque Caf + Bakery, as she describes her For those ready to take on the challenge of
love affair with French cooking. Yet for those who cooking French at home, Chef Jacq Tan of Duck
think French food is an occasional indulgence & Buvette advises patience above all else. She
only to be savored at fancy French restaurants, shares, Its worth the wait. Try not to skip a step.
be inspired by these ve Filipino chefs who are Procedures are there for a purpose. They help
bringing their love for la cuisine franaise to build the avor of the dish. Chef Ian Padilla
Filipino diners. assures that you shouldnt be intimidated. He says,
Chef Greg Guy, who trained at Le Cordon Relax, its only cooking. First, choose a dish that
Bleu Paris, explains, Ive learned to love it you will feel comfortable with. A good example
because of how much respect they give not is our local chicken adobo, and so the French
only to the ingredients but to every step of the equivalent would be chicken braised in vinegar.
process, from chopping up vegetables, even just Second, follow the recipe. Third, and I cannot
for stock, up to plating. And while French cuisine stress this enoughtaste, taste, taste!then after,
boasts advanced techniques that only professional taste again. And lastly enjoy and have fun.
chefs can do, it also offers many comfort food With their words of advice, these ve
recipes that can easily be done at home. Chef accomplished chefs share their favorite French
Katrina Kuhn-Alcantara, who also trained at Le recipes for you to try at home and wow your
Cordon Bleu Paris, believes many of these dishes friends and family alike.

34 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Christmas Ham Hock in Honey Glaze with
Roasted Vegetables and Chestnuts
This French-style Christmas ham recipe started as an experiment
when Chef Ian Padilla was still at the old Brasserie Girolle.
He says, Since Filipinos love crispy pata, we thought of using
ham hocks instead of ham leg. We played around with sous
vide and traditional braise and luckily for us, it worked.
Chef Ian fell in love with French cooking as a teenager and,
DIWHU OHDUQLQJ KLV UVW )UHQFK GLVK RI boeuf Bourgignon, he says,
I knew French cuisine was the path I was going to follow.
He spent two years in Paris cooking at the fabled Taillevent,
and visiting markets and bistros on weekends. He recounts, I
remember my friends and I would buy cheeses, charcuterie and
winelots of wineand we would have great parties! Chef Ian
ZLOO EH VKRZFDVLQJ KLV UHQHG FXOLQDU\ VHQVLELOLWLHV DW &RPPRQ
Table, his soon-to-open gastropub in Salcedo Village, Makati.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 35


EVERYDAY DINNERS
Beef Burgundy
Chef Jacq Tan developed her love for French cuisine at Caf Provenal.
She shares, It was actually making demi glace that made me want to
learn more about the cuisine. How simple ingredients can be made into
VRPHWKLQJ WKDW KDV GHHS DQG FRPSOH[ DYRU 6KH OLNHQV KHU UHFLSH IRU WKLV
French classic to our local beef caldereta which is, she says, Like adobo,
every household will have their own version. Her recipe for beef Burgundy
or boeuf Bourguignon is a basic one, but she suggests adding more wine,
shallots or vegetables, according to taste. She recommends sauting the
VKDOORWV DQG EDFRQ VHSDUDWHO\ WR DGG PRUH DYRU WR WKH GLVK <RX FDQ SDLU
this dish with potatoes, rice, sourdough bread or with aglio olio pasta.
<RX FDQ QG &KHI -DFT DW KHU FDVXDO )UHQFK UHVWDXUDQW 'XFN %XYHWWH ZKLFK
serves a menu inspired by Provence or the south of France, and which is
EHVW NQRZQ IRU LWV VSHFLDOW\ RI GXFN FRQW 6KH DOVR UHFHQWO\ RSHQHG $SHUR
a neighborhood caf offering housemade levain sourdough bread and
SDVWULHVEDNHGLQDUHEULFNRYHQbSOXVVPRNHG)UHQFKVW\OHURDVWFKLFNHQ

DUCK & BUVETTE


2/F Main Wing,
Shangri-La Plaza, EDSA,
Mandaluyong,
(02) 631-0675,
Facebook: duckbuvette

APERO Corinthian Hills,


Temple Drive, Quezon
City, (02) 532-8064,
Facebook: apero.ph

36 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Poulet la Crme
&KHI.DWULQD.XKQ$OFDQWDUDOLYHGLQ3DULVIRUWZR\HDUVDVZHOO Poulet la Crme
as several months in Nice and Corsica. It was such a big part (Chicken in Cream Sauce)
of my life because I really embraced their cuisine, their culture, Recipe by Katrina
their lifestyle. She recalls, I have so many food memories Kuhn-Alcantara
WKHUHIURPWKHUVWWLPH,WDVWHGSDQVHDUHGIRLHJUDVmoelleux Serves 4
au chocolat (liquid centered chocolate cake), countless bottles
of wine, etc. This recipe is proof indeed of her love for French 2 chicken legs
cooking. She shares, Its kind of a basic recipe so I must have just 2 chicken thighs
picked it up from living there. Its not a familial recipe for me so 1/4 cup butter
I keep changing it depending on my mood and whats available. 1 large white onion,
If I have tarragon, Ill add it. If I have wine, Ill put it. If Im in a sliced
hurry, Ill poke it. If I have a deboned chicken, Ill use it (not white 2 garlic cloves,
meat). People usually use whole chickens so if the white meat chopped
must join the party, just take it out earlier to avoid over-cooking. 1 1/2 cups button
,OLNHbSXWWLQJLWLQWKHRYHQEHFDXVHLWFRRNVPRUHHYHQO\ mushrooms,
Chef Katrina is well known for Mesclun, her catering preferably fresh
company with restaurant and banquet operations based in 1/4 cup white wine,
Linden Suites, Ortigas. She does lots of weddings and corporate optional
events where, as she says, I get to cultivate my inner Martha 1 1/2 cups cooking
maarte Stewart! She also opened the casual restaurant cream or crme
&'3ZLWKKHUIULHQGVZKLFKVKHGHVFULEHVDVD*OREDO7DEOH frache
with a menu inspired by their travels around the world. fresh tarragon, for
garnish

1. Season chicken legs


and thighs with salt.
2. Melt butter in a
SDQ$GGFKLFNHQ
pieces and brown on
both sides.
3. $GGRQLRQVWKHQ
chopped garlic.
If using fresh
mushrooms, add them
as well.
4. 'HJOD]HWKHSDQ
with white wine, if
using, or chicken
stock.
5.$GGFRRNLQJFUHDP
then cover the pan. If
using crme frache,
add some water to
thin the sauce, then
cover the pan.
6. If using canned
mushrooms, add them
to the chicken at this
point.
7. When chicken
is cooked, remove
from pan. Reduce
sauce to your desired
consistency. Season
with salt and pepper.
8. Transfer chicken
pieces to a serving
platter. Pour sauce
MESCLUN 2/F Tower 1, The
Linden Suites, 37 San Miguel over the chicken.
Avenue, Ortigas Center, Pasig City, Garnish with fresh
(02) 656-3602, www.mesclun.ph, tarragon. Serve with
Facebook: mesclunPH
CHEFS TIP To cook the rice pilaf (preferably
CDP GLOBAL TABLE Power chicken faster, you can pierce made with basmati
Plant Mall, Rockwell Center, Makati WKH HVK\ SDUW RI WKH FKLFNHQ
City, (02) 556-4454, (0917) 832- rice), roasted potatoes
under the skin, with a knife
9828, Facebook: CDPGlobalTable or a fork.
or sourdough bread.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 37


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Poached Fish with Beurre Blanc


This recipe by Chef Greg Guy is a great introduction to one of the
foundations of French cookinga good sauce. He explains, Beurre
blanc is one of the more popular French sauces and one that you
FDQ PDNH DW KRPH ,WV OLJKW DQG GHOLFDWH DYRU SDLUV ZRQGHUIXOO\
ZLWK SRDFKHG VK ZLWKRXW DQ\ RQH FRPSRQHQW RYHUSRZHULQJ
another. But he warns about the amount of butter used: The
recipe calls for a whole bar of butter because thats what is needed
WR KDYH D VXFFHVVIXO HPXOVLFDWLRQ $Q\ OHVV DQG WKH HQG UHVXOW
wont come out rich and creamy. If you prefer to pan fry or grill the
VK KH UHFRPPHQGV D VWURQJHU VDXFH OLNH KROODQGDLVH RU EDUQDLVH
$IWHU VWXG\LQJ DQG ZRUNLQJ LQ 3DULV DQG 1HZ <RUN &KHI *UHJ
returned to the Philippines to establish Cheesecakes by Guy
ZKLFK RIIHUV WKH QHVW FKHHVHFDNHV LQ WRZQ LQ PDQ\ XQXVXDO
variantsqueso de bola cheesecake, cheesecake ice cream,
FKHHVHFDNH PRXVVH FKHHVHFDNH VRXI FKHHVHFDNH FXVWDUG
and moreall made with his signature cheesecake base.

CHEESECAKES BY GUY
2/F Eastwood Mall, Eastwood
Cyberpark, Quezon City, (02)
584-3372, (0917) 898-8396, www.
cheesecakesbyguy.com

38 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Lamb Navarin
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WKH$ODLQ'XFDVVH,QVWLWXWH%XWKHUUHDOLPPHUVLRQKDSSHQHGGXULQJKHUVWDJHRU
LQWHUQVKLSDW/D&KDVVDJQHWWHD0LFKHOLQVWDUUHGUHVWDXUDQWLQ$UOHV)UDQFHZKHUH
VKHZDVH[SRVHGWRLQJUHGLHQWVVKHGRQO\VHHQLQFRRNERRNV'XULQJKHUWLPHWKHUH
she recalls, I cannot forget how we would get our vegetables right from our garden
in the backyard. Thats how serious my chef was about using only fresh ingredients.
2XUPHQXFKDQJHGGHSHQGLQJRQZKDWRXUJDUGHQSURGXFHGGXULQJWKDWVHDVRQb7KLV
traditional French lamb stew recipe is inspired by the one from La Chassagnettes
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VZHDWWKHYHJHWDEOHVZHOO0RVWRIWKHDYRUVZLOOVWDUWWREXLOGXSIURPWKHUH
7KHVHGD\V&KHI$OH[DWRJHWKHUZLWKSDUWQHU&KHI3DFR/DRUXQ
Croque Caf + Bakery as an homage to their time training in France,
RIIHULQJ(XURSHDQGLVKHVZLWKD)LOLSLQRWZLVW7KH\DOVRUHFHQWO\RSHQHG
7LWR3DNVDIDVWIRRG)LOLSLQRUHVWDXUDQWVSHFLDOL]LQJLQFULVS\pata.

CROQUE CAF + BAKERY


G/F Dominion Building, Arnaiz
Avenue, Makati City, (02)
956-7534, (0906) 526-9920,
croquecafebakery.com, Facebook:
croquecafebakeryph

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 39


EVERYDAY DINNERS

Christmas Ham Hock in 3 tablespoons olive oil 1. $GG DOO LQJUHGLHQWV H[FHSW 2 garlic cloves, crushed
Honey Glaze with Roasted salt and pepper, to taste WKH VK LQWR WKH SRW %ULQJ 1/2 teaspoon tomato paste
Vegetables and Chestnuts 1 teaspoon thyme water to a light boil and turn  WHDVSRRQ DOOSXUSRVH RXU
Recipe by Ian Padilla 1 teaspoon rosemary the heat to low/medium low 2 tablespoons white wine
Serves 8 or until the water is lightly water, enough to cover the meat
Toss the carrots, pumpkin, simmering or almost about to 1 bouquet garni (3 sprigs of
16 cups water sweet potato, red onions, boil. Lightly salt the water. thyme, bay leaf, parsley stem
10 tablespoons salt baby potatoes, green beans, 2. &DUHIXOO\ DGG WKH OOHWV tied together)
1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons mushrooms and water and let cook for about 3 to 5 1/4 kilo carrots, peeled and
pink salt chestnuts with honey, olive minutes, depending on the sliced
2 cups honey oil, salt and pepper, thyme and WKLFNQHVV DQG VL]H RI WKH OOHW 1/4 kilo daikon radish, peeled
20 ml liquid smoke, optional rosemary. Roast with the ham Note that even with poaching, and cubed
2 pork shanks, 1 kilo each, during the remaining 10 to 15 WKH VK FDQ HDVLO\ RYHUFRRN 7R 1/4 kilo potatoes, peeled and
bone in minutes. FKHFN LI GRQH SRNH OOHW ZLWK D cubed
salt and pepper, to taste IRUN WR VHH LI WKH HVK VWDUWV WR 70 grams French beans,
Beef Burgundy DNH RU VHSDUDWH <RX FDQ DOVR trimmed
1. Combine water, salt, pink Recipe by Jacq Tan SRDFK WKH VK IRU  PLQXWHV sugar, to taste, optional
salt, honey and liquid smoke, Serves 8 to 12 turn the heat off and leave for chopped parsley, for garnish,
if using, in a large container another 3 minutes. optional
and mix well. Submerge pork 2 kilos beef short ribs, cut into 3. Once cooked, use a spatula
shanks in the brine and store cubes DQG FDUHIXOO\ WDNH WKH OOHWV RXW 1. Preheat oven to 325F.
in the refrigerator for 48 hours. water, enough to cover meat in 1 piece. Serve immediately 2. Score tomatoes at the
Make sure the shanks stay 2 tablespoons tomato paste with beurre blanc (recipe below). bottom. Blanch them for 10
submerged by putting a heavy 1 cup red wine, preferably VHFRQGV GHSHQGLQJ RQ VL]H LQ
plate on top of the shanks. French Burgundy BEURRE BLANC ERLOLQJ ZDWHU 'LS LQ LFH EDWK
2. Place the shanks in a pot 1 cup bacon or lardons, cut into (white wine butter sauce): and peel.
with enough of the brine 1-inch pieces 1/4 cup white wine 3. Lightly season lamb cubes
solution to cover. Bring to a boil 3 tablespoons butter  FXS ZKLWH ZLQH YLQHJDU with salt and pepper. In a
and simmer over low heat until 1 cup shallots, peeled  WHDVSRRQV PLQFHG VKDOORWV 'XWFK RYHQ FDVWLURQ SDQ RU
tender, about 3 hours. Remove 1 cup fresh shiitake mushrooms, 1 200-gram bar butter, cut into ovenproof casserole with lid,
shanks from the pot and reserve sliced 1/2-inch cubes, kept frozen sear lamb cubes on all sides.
the liquid. 1/2 cup beef stock or very cold Remove from pan and set aside.
3. Score the skin side of the salt and pepper, to taste salt, to taste Remove oil from the pan.
shanks without cutting too 2 cups peeled and cubed carrots 4. In the same pan, add butter
deeply in 1/2-inch intervals. 2 cups peeled and cubed 1. Bring wine, vinegar and DQG VZHDW RQLRQ DQG JDUOLF $GG
Then repeat the same process potatoes shallots to boil. Reduce until tomato paste and allow to cook
at a 60-degree angle to form you have about 3 tablespoons for 3 to 5 minutes.
diamond shapes. Set aside.  Place beef in a large stock of liquid left, then turn the heat 5. $GG RXU WKHQ VWLU DQG
4. 7R PDNH WKH UHGXFHG JOD]H pot. Pour water and heat over WR YHU\ ORZ allow to cook for 2 minutes.
simmer the reserved cooking high heat. Once it starts to boil, 2. Carefully add cold butter Put browned lamb cubes back
liquid in a pot until the juice add tomato paste and red wine. 1 cube at a time. Whisk into in the pan. Pour white wine
is thick and coats the back of Simmer for 3 hours or until the sauce until completely and allow to come to a boil,
a spoon. Season with salt and tender. melted before adding the next WKHQ UHGXFH WR D VLPPHU $GG
pepper. 2. In a saucepan, render the FXEH 6ORZO\ PHOWLQJ WKH EXWWHU tomatoes, water and bouquet
5. Preheat oven to 425F. Place fat of the bacon, then set HPXOVLHV LW LQWR WKH VDXFH garni.
shanks in a roasting pan, skin bacon aside. In the same pan, without separating. The slower 6. Cover pan and cook in the
side up. Brush skin with the add butter and shallots and you melt the butter, the better. oven for approximately 1 hour
UHGXFHG JOD]H 5RDVW IRU  WR FRRN XQWLO WUDQVOXFHQW $GG Keep the heat low and the 30 minutes. Check every 30
25 minutes, brushing the shanks mushrooms, then continue to EXWWHU FROG minutes.
ZLWK JOD]H HYHU\  PLQXWHV RU saut. Set aside. 3. $IWHU ZKLVNLQJ LQ  RI WKH 7. In a separate pot, boil carrots
until heated through and the 3. Once beef is almost tender, butter, start adding 2 to 3 cubes and simmer until cooked. Set
skin is crispy with a nice, shiny add shallot-bacon-mushroom at a time. The sauce should look DVLGH 'R WKH VDPH ZLWK UDGLVK
PDKRJDQ\ JOD]H PL[WXUH WR WKH SRW 'HJOD]H WKH like thick yellow cream that French beans and potatoes until
6. Remove shanks from the saucepan with beef stock to get gets even thicker with every cooked. Set aside.
oven and let rest for 10 all the delicious brown bits at DGGLWLRQ RI EXWWHU $IWHU DOO 8. Remove lamb from the oven.
minutes. WKH ERWWRP $GG WR WKH SRW RI the butter has melted into the If sauce is still watery or thin,
7. To serve, place the roasted simmering beef. Season with VDXFH DGG VDOW WR WDVWH strain the meat. Reduce sauce
vegetables (recipe below) at the salt and pepper. 4. Pass sauce through a strainer until thick on the stove, then
bottom of a serving platter, and 4. $GG FDUURWV DQG SRWDWRHV to remove shallots. Or you can SXW FRRNHG ODPE EDFN LQ $GMXVW
put the shanks or ham on top. and continue to simmer until VHUYH WKH VDXFH DV LV .HHS VHDVRQLQJ DFFRUGLQJO\ $GG
'UL]]OH ZLWK UHPDLQLQJ JOD]H tender. warm over low indirect heat or sugar, if needed.
in a bowl over a pot of lightly 9. Stir vegetables with the
ROASTED VEGETABLES WITH Poached Fish with Beurre simmering water. This sauce lamb. Transfer to a dish or
CHESTNUTS : Blanc should keep warm and cannot VHUYH LQ WKH 'XWFK RYHQ RU SDQ
1/2 cup baby organic carrots Recipe by Greg Guy EH UHKHDWHG Garnish with chopped parsley
1/2 cup pumpkin, peeled and Serves 4 if desired.
cut into chunks Lamb Navarin
1/2 cup sweet potato, peeled 1/2 bay leaf Recipe by Alexa Alaba
and cut into chunks juice and peel of 1/2 lemon Serves 6
1/2 cup red onion, cut in halves 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
or quarters 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1/2 kilo tomatoes
1/2 cup baby potatoes, salt, to taste 1 kilo lamb shoulder, cut into
blanched 4 cups water 2-inch cubes
1/2 cup green beans, blanched  OOHWV FUHDP GRU\ RU DQ\ UP salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cup mushrooms VK OLNH maya-maya, salmon, 3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup water chestnuts tilapia 2 teaspoons butter
3 tablespoons honey 1 onion, diced

40 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


COOK IT 5 WAYS

at its best
Travel the world through these beef recipes that offer delicious
new ways to enjoy everyones favorite red meat
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA
Recipes by MARTIN KASPAR | Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA | Food styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ
Set styling by ATHENA FREGILLANA

S
paghetti Bolognese. A hearty caldereta.
Bistek Tagalog. Beef nilaga. These are
beloved beef dishes we may have grown up
with, and enjoy cooking at home. While
well always love these classic dishes, why
not go beyond the familiar in order to nd new and
delicious ways to cook with beef, especially these
days when so many different cuts from different
parts of the world are now available in butcher
shops and supermarkets.
For international beef recipes that youll
denitely want to try at home, we asked Chef
Martin Kaspar of LEntrecote Corner Bar and
Bistro to share his expertise on all things beef.
The name of his restaurant, after all, is French
for a premium cut of beef. His signature dish,
LEntrecte, consists of US sirloin steak (or the
more premium US Certied Angus sirloin) served
with his secret herb butter sauce and unlimited
French fries! He also serves Certied Angus rib eye,
tenderloin, a 21-ounce tomahawk rib bone steak,
even classic raw beef tartare (a rarity in Manila). He
offers classic European dishes as well, like moules
frites (mussels with fries), risotto, cheese fondue
and raclette, thanks to his Swiss heritage.
In the next pages, Chef Martin shares his
cherished recipes that dont use expensive cuts
of beef or premium steaks. Instead, he cooks
common beef cuts in myriad ways, with avors
and techniques he learned while growing up in
Switzerland and traveling the globe as a chef,
before settling in the Philippines for good.

42 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Hungarian Beef Paprikash
If you think there are too many onions in this recipe, Chef Martin
says, Thats the secret to the dish! The onions give this goulash-
LQVSLUHG VWHZ PXFK RI LWV FRPSOH[ DYRU LPSDUWLQJ VZHHW FDUDPHO
like notes, with paprika for a touch of spice, and a dollop of sour
cream to balance it all out. Chef Martin likes to call this his no-fail
bulletproof dish. You can use shoulder cuts, like Australian oyster
blade, which has ligaments, a good amount of fat and isnt too dry.

LEntrecote Corner Bar and Bistro, Forbestown Center, Unit A Bellagio 2, Burgos Circle, Bonifacio Global City

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 43


COOK IT 5 WAYS

Ox Tongue with Madeira-Caper Sauce


While most Filipinos are familiar with our
Spanish-Filipino lengua, there are other ways
to cook with ox tongue. Chef Martin shares a
recipe from his childhood that pairs a tangy-
creamy sauce with ox tongue cooked until
fork-tender. He suggests cooking the ox
tongue in advance and then just reheating
it in its broth before serving. Dont omit
WKH 0DGHLUD D IRUWLHG ZLQH IURP 3RUWXJDO
ZKLFK GHQLWHO\ NLFNV XS WKH DYRU RI WKH
VDXFH ,I \RX FDQW QG 0DGHLUD DQ\ SRUW
wine or Cognac will work just as well.

44 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Beef Kefta on Mediterranean
Couscous with Mint Sour Cream
Chef Martin goes Mediterranean with
a touch of Asian in this tasty dish thats
sure to be popular with the family. He
learned to make this lush couscous,
DYRUHG ZLWK IUXLWV DQG VSLFHV ZKHQ KH
was working in Israel, and it perfectly
complements his spice-laden kefta
(also called kofta or kufta) or meatballs
found across the Middle East, Central
Asia, South Asia and North Africa.
Living in Asia, he couldnt help but add
a touch of Japanese teriyaki or yakitori
sauce to the beef, and it works! He says
any good quality ground beef, local
or imported, will work for this dish.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 45


Beef Tenderloin in Cilantro
Pepper Crust with Stir-fried
Bell Pepper Medley
7KLV GLVK SDFNV RQ WKH DYRU
both in the tenderloins crust
and in the stir-fried bell pepper
mixture that livens it up. The
sweetness of the bell pepper and
the peppery crust are the perfect
complement to tenderloin, the
leanest part of the beef but
also its softest. Chef Martin
advises that you ask your butcher
for the center part of the loin
which is the most tender. He
prefers using Australian beef
tenderloin, but if its too costly,
local tenderloin will do the job.

46 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Beef Sirloin with Whiskey-
Garlic Cream Sauce Buying Beef
While rib eye gets all the accolades as The not-so-secret
the most prime of cuts, Chef Martin secret to cooking a
makes a case for sirloin. A good great-tasting beef
quality sirloin, like a top-grade sirloin dish starts with the
from the U.S., may have less fat than choice of beef. But
ULE H\H EXW ERDVWV IXOOHU DYRU +H how can you tell the
good from the bad?
proves this with his steak recipe paired
Look for a rich, even
with a shallot-based sauce mixed color without any dark
with whiskey for a smoky, woody spots or discoloration.
dimension. He laughs, Make sure to Make sure the beef is
put whiskey in the sauce, not in you! cut evenly, without
ragged edges. And
most importantly,
choose a good, reliable
butcher. Rustans
Supermarkets operates
its own in-house
butchery, with award-
winning butchers who
ensure the freshness,
quality and hygiene
of its meat products.
Rustans offers a wide
selection of top quality
fresh, chilled or frozen
beef from the United
States, Australia,
Canada, Belgium,
among other countries.
The beef dishes
photographed in
this feature used
beef sourced from
Marketplace by
Rustans, the luxury
grocery brand of
Rustans Supermarkets,
which offers a full
range of premium
SURGXFWVDUWLVDQDO
cheeses, charcuterie,
wines, and other
JRXUPHWLWHPVIURP
around the world.
Marketplace by Rustans
branches are located
at Power Plant Mall,
Rockwell, Makati; San
Antonio Plaza, McKinley
Road, Forbes Park,
Makati; and Central
Square, Bonifacio
High Street, Bonifacio
Global City. Visit www.
rustansfresh.com for
more information

Serving Platter Copper Slate, True Home (Robinsons Magnolia and Greenbelt 5) FOOD |2016 Issue 4 47
COOK IT 5 WAYS
Hungarian Beef Paprikash 5. Before serving, slice the Mediterranean Couscous peppers and shiitake mushrooms.
Serves 4 tongue, place on a platter and Serves 4 Saut for 4 minutes.
cover with the Madeira-caper 4. Deglaze with white wine and
1 1/2 kilos onions, sliced sauce (recipe below). Serve with 1 cup + 1/3 cup (350 ml) water reduce 80% of the liquid. Add the
1/2 cup olive oil mashed potatoes. 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon butter diluted Braten Sauce, if using,
600 grams beef shoulder, cut into dash of salt and bring to a boil. Season to
40-gram pieces MADEIRA-CAPER SAUCE: 2 tablespoons olive oil taste and remove from heat.
salt and pepper, to taste 1/2 cup butter 300 grams couscous 5. To serve, transfer tenderloin
2 tablespoons tomato paste  WDEOHVSRRQV RXU  UHG QJHU FKLOL VOLFHG to a plate and cover with bell
1/2 cup pimientos, sliced 1 1/4 cups ox tongue broth 2 tomatoes, seeded and diced pepper sauce. Sprinkle enoki
1/4 cup paprika powder, 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon 1 orange, cut into segments mushrooms and garnish with
preferably Hungarian cooking cream 1 small bundle coriander cilantro leaves on top. Serve with
dash of cayenne pepper 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon Madeira 2 teaspoons roasted garlic roasted mini potatoes.
dash of herb vinegar wine, port wine or Cognac 4 teaspoons olive oil
4 cups beef broth  FXS QH FDSHUV juice of 1/2 lemon
CHEFS TIP To dilute
1/2 cup sour cream salt and pepper, to taste salt and pepper, to taste the Braten Sauce, simmer
with 1/4 cup red wine
1. Saut onions in olive oil until 1. On low heat, melt butter, add 1. Boil water with butter, salt for 20 minutes. Braten
golden brown. Add beef to the RXU DQG PL[ ZHOO $GG  RI and olive oil. Add couscous, mix, Sauce is available at Sntis
pan and season with salt and the ox tongue broth and whisk bring to a boil then cover. Stir Delicatessen. Visit www.
pepper. well until the mixture is smooth. every 2 minutes with a fork. santis-deli.com for a list of
2. Add tomato paste and saut. Repeat 3 more times, then add 2. In a bowl, combine couscous, branches.
Mix in pimientos, paprika, the cooking cream. QJHU FKLOL WRPDWRHV RUDQJH
cayenne pepper and herb vinegar. 2. Bring to a boil, simmer for segments, chopped coriander,
3. Deglaze the pan with beef  PLQXWHV WKHQ VWUDLQ 3ODFH roasted garlic, lemon juice and Beef Sirloin with Whiskey-
broth and simmer for 1 hour or sauce back in a clean pot. Add olive oil. Season to taste. If you Garlic Cream Sauce
until meat is tender. the Madeira wine and capers and like it spicy, add more chili. Serves 4
4. Check if meat is done. Season simmer for another 5 minutes.
with salt and pepper to taste. Season to taste. Beef Tenderloin in 600 grams lean beef sirloin,
Transfer to a serving platter. Cilantro-Pepper Crust no fat
3ODFH D VFRRS RI VRXU FUHDP RQ Beef Kefta with with Stir-fried Bell Pepper salt and pepper, to taste
top. Serve with buttery noodles. Mint Sour Cream Medley olive oil, for frying
Serves 4 Serves 4 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon
Ox Tongue with Madeira- whiskey, divided
Caper Sauce 12 barbecue sticks 1 1/2 tablespoons cilantro seeds 1/4 cup butter
Serves 4 1 onion, diced (coriander seeds), crushed 100 grams shallots, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped 1 1/2 tablespoons black 2 teaspoons Worcestershire
1 ox tongue 2 tablespoons mustard peppercorns, crushed sauce
water, enough to cover  JUDPV JURXQG EHHI sea salt, to taste 3/4 cup + 1 tablespoon Braten
the tongue salt and pepper, to taste  EHHI WHQGHUORLQ OOHWV Sauce, store bought
1 onion, quartered 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon 140 grams each, center cut 3/4 cup + 1 tablespoon
2 carrots, sliced yakitori or teriyaki sauce 3 tablespoons olive oil cooking cream
1 leek, sliced 1/2 bundle mint leaves, 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon garlic,
1 celery, sliced FXW LQWR QH VWULSV BELL PEPPER SAUCE: chopped and fried
1 ginger, crushed 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons juice of 1/4 lemon
5 bay leaves sour cream butter
15 black peppercorns 1 small bundle coriander, 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon 1. Season whole sirloin with salt
1 tablespoon sugar chopped garlic, chopped and pepper.
1 teaspoon salt 1 onion, sliced into 12 wedges 2. Heat olive oil in a frying pan
2 tablespoons chicken 1. Soak barbecue sticks in water 3 bell peppers (green, red and sear beef on all sides for 3
broth powder, optional for 30 minutes. and yellow), roasted, peeled, to 4 minutes each side. Once all
2. In a large bowl, combine seeded and cut into long strips sides are brown, deglaze pan
1. 3ODFH R[ WRQJXH LQ D SRW onion, garlic and mustard. Mix 1/3 cup shiitake mushrooms, ZLWK  FXS RI WKH ZKLVNH\
add cold water and bring to a in ground beef. Season with salt quartered Immediately remove beef
boil. Remove tongue and throw and pepper and combine well. 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon IURP SDQ DQG WUDQVIHU WR D DW
DZD\ ZDWHU 3ODFH WRQJXH LQ D Divide into 12. Shape into balls white wine container. Cover with aluminum
clean pot, add onion, carrots, and skewer each ball through a 3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon foil and let rest for 10 minutes in
leek, celery and ginger. Cover barbecue stick. Braten Sauce, diluted in red a warm place. Sirloin should be
with water and bring to a boil. 3. 3ODFH WKH VWLFNV LQ D EDNLQJ wine, optional cooked medium-rare to medium.
Remove any foam that gathers tray and brush them with yakitori 1 bundle enoki mushrooms, 3. Reduce whiskey until almost
on the surface. RU WHUL\DNL VDXFH 3ODFH LQ D trimmed gone, then add butter and
2. Add bay leaves, black 400F oven and roast them 1/2 bundle coriander leaves shallots. Saut until transparent.
peppercorns, sugar, salt, and for 10 to 15 minutes or until 4. Add Worcestershire sauce and
chicken powder, if using. meat is done. Brush them every 1. Mix cilantro seeds, black Braten Sauce, and bring to a boil.
3. Simmer for 3 to 4 hours. 5 minutes with sauce. Once pepper and sea salt together. Rub Simmer for 3 minutes.
Check for doneness by inserting cooked, rest beef for 5 minutes. into the tenderloin to coat. 5. Add cooking cream and fried
a thin knife or needle into the 4. Mix mint strips into the sour 2. Heat olive oil and sear garlic. Bring to a boil, then
ox tongue. There should be no cream. tenderloin on all sides for 2 to 3 remove from heat.
resistance. 5. Arrange skewers on top of the minutes. Set the meat on a warm 6. Season to taste. Add lemon
4. Remove ox tongue from Mediterranean couscous (recipe plate, cover with aluminum foil juice for brightness and 1
broth and let it cool down a bit. below). Drizzle mint sour cream and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. tablespoon of the whiskey. Bring
Remove skin of the tongue. Strain over skewers. Sprinkle chopped 3. To make the bell pepper sauce, very quickly to a boil.
the broth and divide in half. One coriander leaves on top. heat butter and saut garlic and 7. Slice the sirloin and serve with
part of the broth is for the sauce onions in the same pan. Cover whiskey-garlic cream sauce on
and the other part can be used to with a lid and let sweat for 2 the side. Serve with fried potato
reheat the tongue. minutes. Remove lid and add bell wedges.

48 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


THE BEST OF THE NORTH
The north is our favorite new dining destination! Here are our most delicious picks
among the exciting, new restaurants at SM City North Edsa
By THE FOOD TEAM | Photography by VYN RADOVAN

HEAT BURGER
AT GRIND BURGER
Among the burgers on the menu, we
love the spiciest of the bunch. The
Heat features a 100% USDA house
ground beef patty on a brioche, with
homemade pickled hot peppers,
onion rings, chipotle BBQ sauce,
American cheese and spicy mayo.
A sibling of BGCs popular Grind
Bistro, this cozy eatery is committed OUR FAMOUS PANCIT
to serving the best quality food, PALABOK AT CAF
making its own bread, sausages, ice ADRIATICO EXPRESS
cream and sauces. Dishes range from Why mess with a classic? Thats what
the comforting Grilled Cheese on we say when we dig into this luscious
homemade rye with a lovely roasted pancit in shrimp sauce topped with
tomato soup, to the deliciously quirky squid, shrimp, chicharon and hard-
Nutty Black Chicken (black tempura, boiled egg. The menu offers other
romesco sauce, sweet chili sauce, rice, favorites as wellLengua Estofada,
garlic chips). Food Circuit, G/F Gambas al Ajillo or Chicken a la Kiev,
The Block, (02) 709-7598 oozing melted butter at rst slice. At this
new Express branch, you can also opt
for more modern fare like grilled panini
FEATS OF TOAST AT CHOCO HAZELNUT sandwiches and pizzas, to complement
CAF SHIBUYA MILKSHAKE AT CAF the menu of all-time classics. Food
When youre here, youll need to KUMORI Circuit, G/F The Block, (02) 372-4000
forget about your diet for the time Japanese cult favorite Caf Kumori is
being. And how can you not, when famous for its light yet deeply satisfying
there are buttery blocks of bread to Hanjuku cheesecakes, trademark cheese
be had, like the Honey Toast slathered tarts, pillowy soft breads, fruity brioches
with honey syrup, or the Sans Rival and aky Danish pastries. We love the
Toast layered with chewy cashew Instagram-worthy Choco Hazelnut
meringue, pistachio ganache and rich Milkshake decorated with a breakfast
vanilla ice cream. Or try the luscious bun, pretzels and chocolate wafers, as
Cookies and Cream Cheesecake made well as the krones,
nes,
with real Philadelphia cream cheese, hollow Danish pastry Latin American Grilled Chicken
paired with a divine Ghirardelli tubes that shattter
Premium Dark Chocolate Latt. pleasantly against GRILLED CHICKEN AT
Caf Shibuya also has Asian savory your teeth wheen GRINGO
meals like Crispy Pork Belly with you bite into Juicy, tender and grilled to perfection,
Kimchi and Nagoya-style Tebasaki them, upon both variants of Gringos Grilled
Fried Chicken seasoned with a sweet, which your Chicken are intensely avored with
garlicky soy sauce glaze. mouth is then a complex mix of Latin American
Food Circuit, G/F The Block, (0917) inundated with h (Original) or Mexican (Southern Spice)
572-3393 rich, creamy eggg herbs and spices. Well also happily eat
custard lling. the fall-off-the-bone Baby Back Ribs,
Sans Rival Toast Theres also thee slathered with Gringos home-style
savory Salmon barbecue sauce. Another stand-out is
Bonito Buns in n Nacho de Amigos: crunchy, addictive
teriyaki sauce, corn chips with lots of pico de gallo,
and sprinkled smoky shredded chicken, mashed beans
with bonito and cheeseone of the best nachos this
akes. Food side of the metro. Food Circuit, G/F
Circuit, G/F The Block, (02) 372-4355 The Block, (02) 372-2894

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 49


MAPLE WALNUT TEA
AT SWEETEAS BY DA.U.DE
Weve never tasted anything like Sweeteas handcrafted drinks,
each one an evocative experience. The smell of the syrup THE BLOCK
in the Maple Walnut Tea brings you the memory of happy Almon Marina
breakfasts. Berry Blossoms intensely rich, fruity avor feels Baskin Robbins
Bistro
like a walk in a summery fruit garden. Da.u.de organic fair
Remedios
trade teas and herbs are the base of all the drinks, customizable Blue Posts
as per your preference: choose your base tea, the temperature Boiling Crabs
(hot, slushy or iced), and add on avors. Like parent company and Shrimps
Da.u.de, which is the word for the Ifugao traditional garb, BonChon
Sweetea advocates an appreciation for local artisans and goods. Chicken
Even its wall interiors are designed to resemble the Banaue rice Caf Adriatico
Maple Walnut Tea terraces. Food Circuit, G/F The Block, (0905) 833-5509 Express
Caf Kumori
Caf Shibuya
Casa Italia
CRAB IN CAJUN SAUCE AT BLUE Churreria La
POSTS BOILING CRABS AND Lola
SHRIMPS Contis
Crabs rule! We love the succulent crabs, shrimp Costa Coffee
and mussels richly slathered in their signature Eat City
sauces, especially the irresistible Cajun Sauce Go Nuts
with corn on the cob, house-made sausages and Donuts
potatoes. Theres also the crunchy Garlic Fried, Grind Burger
and the Southeast Asian-inspired spicy Sambal Gringo
sauces, both so seriously good and addictive when Gyro V
King Chef
poured over rice. Dont miss the other gems on the
Mr. Pizza
menu like the signature Gumbo, a thick, hearty Nacho Bimby
stew of fresh seafood and veggies, with layers of Nadai Fujisoba
soothing heat from its rich blend of spices. The Osaka Ohsho
buttered Cereal Shrimps are crisp and tasty, and Rock & Seoul
the Kinilaw has interesting sweet notes with slices Sweeteas
of green apple. 4/F The Block, (02) 922-9934 Tamarind
Tokyo Bubble
PLA MANAO AT TAMARIND Tea
In a multicourse meal of rich avors, the Pla Tous Les Jour
Manao, sea bass poached in lime broth, stands out
CITY CENTER
with its freshness, delicacy and simple but utterly Bakers Maison
sophisticated harmony of avors. Its just one Dohtonbori
example of Chef Al Purugganans take on Issan Fat Fook
cuisine, which hails from northeastern Thailand, Frankies New
and is known for its simple, minimalist cooking and York Buffalo
emphasis on ery, intense, often pungent avors. Wings
Tamarind, his second Thai restaurant, is where he IHOP Fresh
celebrates his love for Asian home cooking, and the & Go
menu ranges from such favorites as Tom Yum and King Bee
Maisen
Pad Thai, to Satays and Stir-fried Crab.
Pedro n Coi
Food Circuit, G/F The Block, (02) 772-6288 Seattles Best
Coffee
St. Marc Caf
Tim Ho Wan
PATA KANG KARE KARE KA AT
PEDRO N COI SM City North Edsa,
Pinoy comfort food meets Pinoy pop culture at this SM City Complex,
raucously fun restaurantjeepney includedowned by North EDSA,
Quezon City
2011 Miss Universe third runner-up Shamcey Supsup and
husband Lloyd Lee. The crowd-pleaser is this crispy pata-
sm-northedsa.com
meets-kare kare dish with a name that waiters shout out
/smnorthedsa
when served. The dishes are good for sharing, reasonably
@smnorthedsa
priced, and unabashedly Pinoy in avor and in humor
Talong and Winding Road (talong pancake), Binagoongan #northerneats
Revilla (pork binagoongan), Tocino is to Bilib (tocino
rice)you get the idea. 3/F City Center

50 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


COOL TIMES AT THE GROVE
(Clockwise from top left) Family
bonding and fun with friends;
upcoming local musical acts
Kai Honasan and Py Barbeyto
provided the entertainment for
the evening; delicious grilled
cheese pimiento sandwiches by
Alley; crispy salmon tempura A
by Asakusa: House of Tempura;
scrumptious monkey bread by Pi
Breakfast and Pies
Happy
Saturday
at

The Grove
Event photography by PHILLIP CO | Kinilaw photo by JONAS NG

Food, fun and good music at FOOD Tastings Gastrofest at The Grove by Rockwell

I
t felt like a warm summer best-selling dishes of The sauces. Guests also partook of Liquid Concepts
evening at The Grove by Groves restaurants, fun and of crispy salmon tempura demonstrated how to
Rockwell, when families informative cooking demos, from Asakusa: The House of make distinctly Filipino
and barkadas gathered and live acoustic music. Tempura, delicious potato cocktails using local liqueurs
around gingham-covered Aside from overowing croquettes by BurgerPub, from Destileria Limtuaco,
picnic tables to celebrate beer and drinks, there was lling Happiness rice like Manille Liqueur de
the weekend with good food comfort food galore: grilled bowls from Hanamaruken, Calamansi, and local Tsaa
and chill acoustic music. cheese pimiento sandwiches The Gardens rum glazed Laya mint tea. He also
The Grove by Rockwells by Alley, Backyard Kitchen pancakes, savory samosas showed the audience how to
open spaces and relaxed + Brews own grilled cheese by Om Indian Kitchen, and achieve the perfect balance
vibe provided the perfect version with salted egg yolks uffy monkey bread with of sweetness and acidity,
venue for FOOD Magazines and chicken sliders, Sunrise bananas, cinnamon, Nutella and gave a handy tip, too:
second FOOD Tastings of Buckets fried chicken from Pi Breakfast & Pies. use bigger ice cubes to avoid
the year, where guests were wings served with ones During the program, overly diluting the drinks.
treated to samplings of the choice among 25 avorful mixologist Larry Guevara Afterwards, chef-TV host

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 51


VHD VDOW DQG EODFN SHSSHU 7. Heat a nonstick pan over
WR WDVWH medium heat. Cook both
URPDLQH KHDUWV RU RWKHU sides of the sandwich over
FUXQFK\ JUHHQVZDVKHG  a griddle until the bread
DV QHHGHG is golden brown, and the
cheese is fully melted.
1. Immerse tuna in the
vinegar for 15 to 30 Skinny Mojito
minutes. Drain. Recipe by Larry Guevara
2. Mix the other ingredients Serves 1
together except for the
crunchy greens.  IUHVK PLQW OHDYHV
3. Season with salt and  WDEOHVSRRQV 7VDD /D\D
pepper. Serve on top of PLQW WHD V\UXS
crunchy greens. This dish   WDEOHVSRRQV IUHVK
pairs very well with rum- OHPRQ MXLFH
based drinks.  FXS 9HU\ 2OG &DSWDLQ  
5XP
Grilled Cheese  FXS VRGD ZDWHU
Pimiento
By Thirdy Dolatre of Alley 1. Gently muddle mint
Serves 3 leaves with the mint tea
syrup. Add in the lemon
 WDEOHVSRRQ EXWWHU juice and rum.
 ZKROH UHG EHOO SHSSHU 2. Shake well with ice, and
VHHGHG DQG FKRSSHG strain over a highball glass
 FXS VWRUHERXJKW FKHGGDU OOHG ZLWK IUHVK LFH7RS
DELECTABLE FOOD AND FUN FKHHVH VDXFH with soda water.
COOKING DEMOS (Clockwise
from top left) Chef Jonas Ngs  FXS FRRNLQJ FUHDP
herby tuna kinilaw with coconut  WDEOHVSRRQV PLON COOKS NOTE
cream; mixologist Larry Guevara 7R SUHSDUH WKH PLQW WHD
Jonas Ng of The Chef Next gives great tips on how to make
 FXS FUHDP FKHHVH V\UXS ERLO  FXSV ZDWHU ZLWK
Door on Lifestyle TV did a the perfect cocktail; satisfying  WHDVSRRQ ZKLWH SHSSHU  FXS ZKLWH VXJDU LQ D SRW
quick and easy version of samosas by Om Indian Kitchen  VOLFHV SRWDWR ORDI EUHDG 7XUQ RII KHDW WKHQ VWHHS 
kinilaw using sushi-grade PHOWHG EXWWHU EDJV RI PLQW WHD LQ WKH MXVW
ERLOHG VXJDUZDWHU IRU 
ahi tuna. He served it with Herby Spicy Citrusy DJHG ZKLWH FKHGGDU FKHHVH
PLQXWHV 6WUDLQ DQG DOORZ WR
kamote fries made crispy Tuna Kinilaw JUDWHG FRRO EHIRUH XVLQJ
with hardly any oil, thanks Recipe by Jonas Ng PR]]DUHOOD FKHHVH JUDWHG
to a Tefal Actifry Air Fryer. Serves 4
The evening ended with chill 1. In a small saucepan, Passion Never
acoustic performances by  NLOR \HOORZQ WXQD ORLQ melt butter. Add chopped Grows Old
popular local music acts Kai FXEHG DQG FKLOOHG bell pepper and sweat till Recipe by Larry Guevara
Honasan and Py Barbeyto.   FXSV ORFDO FDQH RU VRIWHQHG Serves 1
FRFRQXW YLQHJDU RU DV 2. Add cheddar cheese
FOOD Tastings Gastrofest QHHGHG sauce, cooking cream and  WDEOHVSRRQV 9HU\ 2OG
was presented by FOOD  WDEOHVSRRQV PLQFHG JLQJHU milk. Bring to a boil then &DSWDLQ 5XP
Magazine and The Grove  NDIU OLPH OHDYHV turn off heat. Let cool for  WDEOHVSRRQV 0DQLOOH
by Rockwell, with media FKLIIRQDGH DURXQG  WR  PLQXWHV /LTXHXU GH &DODPDQVL
partners Lifestyle TV and  ELJ UHG RQLRQ WKLQO\ VOLFHG 3. After cooling, fold in   WDEOHVSRRQV
ABS-CBN Lifestyle, brought  UHG FKLOL WKLQO\ VOLFHG cream cheese. Season with SDVVLRQIUXLW SXUH
to you by Tefal, with special RSWLRQDO white pepper.  WDEOHVSRRQV IUHVK OHPRQ
participation of Petron Gasul.  UHG EHOO SHSSHUV FXW LQWR 4. Transfer to a jar or MXLFH
Special thanks to Absolute VPDOO GLFH any container and keep  WHDVSRRQV ULFK VLPSOH
water, Arla, Baristas Best,  WDEOHVSRRQ FRFRQXW RU refrigerated until ready to V\UXS XVH PLQW WHD V\UXS
Brownies Unlimited, Corona muscovado VXJDU use. UHFLSH EXW RPLW PLQW WHD
Beer, Destileria Limtuaco,  WDEOHVSRRQV FKRSSHG 5. Brush 2 potato bread
Downtown Cookies, Nestea, wansuy (FLODQWUR slices with melted butter. Pour all ingredients in a
Philippine Wine Merchants,  WDEOHVSRRQV EDVLO 6. Slather 1 bread slice with shaker. Add ice cubes and
Pascuals Creamy Delight FKLIIRQDGH homemade cheese pimiento, shake well. Strain, then pour
Yogurt and Vitamilk.  WDEOHVSRRQV FKRSSHG then top with grated over fresh ice cubes into a
Visit FOOD Magazine VFDOOLRQV RU VSULQJ RQLRQV cheddar and mozzarella serving glass. Garnish with
on Facebook for upcoming 7KDL VK VDXFH WR WDVWH FKHHVH &RYHU ZLWKWKHRWKHU orange zest.
FOOD Tastings events. FXSFRFRQXWPLON bread slice.

52 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Capture the holiday spirit with 50+ of the sweetest, prettiest
and most scrumptious food gifts of the season
By THE FOOD TEAM
Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA | Styling by ANGELIQUE ABESAMIS CASTRO | Produced by TIN SAMSON

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FOOD |2016 Issue 4 53


e tickled pink with th
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WKLV FDNH ORQJ DIWHU \RXYH HDWHQ WKDW ODVW ELWH 3

Green dessert plate, Rose gold charger, CR ATE&BARREL; Placemat with fork design, DOMES TICIT Y

54 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


h oliday cheer
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Kitchen cloth and rose gold spreader, CR ATE&BARREL; Round wooden board with rose gold handles, COMMON ROOM; Coral placemat, stylists own

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 55


e
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1 APPLE PIE BY WILDFLOUR


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serve with browned butter cream
VDXFHDQGVZRRQ3

56 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


4 CHRISTMAS COLORS ASSORTMENT COOKIES BY OROYS ,WV DQ LQVWDQW &KULVWPDV SDUW\ ZKHQ \RX JHW D WDVWH RI WKHVH WKUHH FRRNLH DYRUV :KLWH &KRFRODWH
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Dried wheat and cheesecloth, COMMON ROOM6PDOOZKLWHEXWWHU\FXWRXWSODWH DOMES TICIT Y; Rolling pin, stylists own

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 57


2

1 UBE MILLE CREPE BY PAPER MOON CAF 'HOLFLRXV)LOLSLQRDYRUVRIube and macapunoFDQEHHQMR\HGLQ3DSHU0RRQVIDPRXVPLOOHFUHSHFDNH3


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58 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


r en t shades of pu e and
iffe
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rsts e year
b u wond f me of th
t for
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FOOD |2016 Issue 4 59


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60 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Christmas

ts
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infu
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FOOD |2016 Issue 4 61


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62 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


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FOOD |2016 Issue 4 63


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LQGHHG D PDWFK PDGH LQ KHDYHQ 3

64 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


ore Christmas memories with
te m newfound
ea ack s, spr ead s
Cr v orite sn , drink
s,
fa ev en sp icy t h in gs to t
d urn u
an p th
e heat

Clothespins, jute sack strings, wooden jewelry box, diamond, rectangle and square colored wooden bowls,
and gift tags, COMMON ROOM; Off-white placemat, stylists own

1 CLASSIC CHICKEN EMPANADAS BY MAMA EMPANADA 0DGHIURPDQKHLUORRPUHFLSHE\DJUDQGGDXJKWHU RI WKH IRXQGHUV RI 5HG 5LEERQ WKHVH empanadas
ZLWKWKHLUFUXQFK\\HWPHOWLQ\RXUPRXWKFUXVWZLOOWDNH\RXEDFNWR\RXUFKLOGKRRG3 ER[RI 3 ER[ RI  2 DUKKAH BY GOURMET GYPSY ART
CAF $Q(J\SWLDQVSLFHEOHQGWKDWLQFOXGHVSLVWDFKLRVVHVDPHVHHGVFRULDQGHUDQGFXPLQWKLVDURPDWLFPL[FDQ EH XVHG DV D FUXVW IRU ODPE FKLFNHQ VK DQG
WRIXLQIXVHGLQDQROLYHRLOGLSIRUEUHDGRUVSULQNOHGRQDQ\WKLQJ\RXFDQWKLQNRIURDVWHGYHJHWDEOHVSDVWD IHWD IUHVK IUXLW 3 VPDOO  3 ELJ 3 JAMON
SERRANO & BLUE CHEESE SPREAD AND 4 FIG & APRICOT SPREAD WITH DUKKAH BY OPEN HAND SCHOOL 0DGH DQG SDFNDJHG E\ VWXGHQWV ZLWK
VSHFLDOQHHGVDW2SHQ+DQG6FKRROWKHVHVDYRU\FUHDPFKHHVHEDVHGVSUHDGVDUHGHOLJKWIXOO\GHFDGHQWSHUIHFW ZKHQ VSUHDG RQ WRDVWHG EUHDG RU HYHQ WRVVHG
ZLWKSDVWD3 VPDOO 3 ELJ 5 BENGUET ARABICA AND SULU ROBUSTA COFFEE BEANS BY ARK OF TASTE &RIIHH ORYHUV ZLOO DSSUHFLDWH WKLV ULFK
VPRRWKEOHQGRISUHPLXP$UDELFDEHDQVIURPWKHKLJKODQGVRI$WRNLQ&RUGLOOHUD)RUVWURQJ\HWVPRRWKFRIIHH FKRRVH 5REXVWD EHDQV IURP 6XOX 3  JUDPV
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ER[VHWRIWXEV

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 65


1 CHILI CON CARNE BY CANLEYS CUISINE &DQOH\VVXPSWXRXVVORZFRRNHGFKLOLFRQFDUQHLVLQFUHGLEO\DGGLFWLYHDQGJRHVSHUIHFWO\ZLWKFKLSVSDVWDEUHDG
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VDQGZLFKHV 3 SHU ERWWOH

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66 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Gift Guide
TABLE CRACKLECHIPS GOURMANDISE HAPPY KITCHEN
(0917) 862-1800, (0917) 680-3777, (0918) BY SUNSHINE Phase 1, AFPOVAI, Western
dulcemagatgibb@yahoo. 981-3777, cracklechips@ gourmandisebysunshine@ Bicutan, Taguig City, (0917)
com, order 3 to 4 days gmail.com, Facebook and gmail.com, Instagram: 718-6825, Facebook:
ahead, Makati pick-up Instagram: cracklechips.ph gourmandisebysunshine happykitchenph, Instagram:
happykitchenph, order 2
ANA CUPCAKES BY SONJA GOURMET GYPSY days ahead, delivers for a
Contact Kat Jao G/F Serendra Piazza, ART CAF fee within Metro Manila
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Taguig, (02) 915-2936; 2/F Quezon City, (02) 662-0880, HOMEMADE BY
ARK OF TASTE Glorietta 2 Bridgeway, Ayala gourmetgypsyartcafe@ ROSHAN
Available at ECHOstore, Center, Makati City, (02) 625- gmail.com, Facebook: (02) 631-7786,
G/F NDC Building, 4884; G/F Mega Fashion gourmetgypsy homemadebyroshan.com
116 Tordesillas Street, Hall, SM Megamall, Ortigas,
Salcedo Village, Makati Mandaluyong, (02) 463- GUSTARE KITCHEN JOCONDE CAKES
City, (02) 869-1516, 3395, cupcakesbysonja.com G/F EWC Building, 5417 AND PASTRIES
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BITE ME UP DOROTHY MJ FERRERIA


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FOOD |2016 Issue 4 67


Gift Guide
JOY SAN GABRIEL MAMA EMPANADA PUFFT TIO LUCA
PASTRIES (0915) 863-3156, MARSHMALLOWS Maras Organic Market
(02) 211-4820, 585- Instagram: MamaEmpanada 2/F Mega Fashion Hall, (MOM) at Legazpi Sunday
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sangabriel.joy@gmail. MANILA CHOCOLATIER inside POP by Retail Lab, 500-6105, tio.luca.sales@
com, Facebook: Joy Bakes, Available at Artisan Cellar Power Plant Mall, Rockwell, gmail.com, Facebook:
Instagram: joybakes Doors, 2276 Narra Bldg, Makati City; (0916) 400- Tio Luca Artisan Dairy
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(0917) 527-3674; G/F ilovemanilachocolatier Hole in the Wall, 4/L Century
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68 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Entertaining

A Very Retro

Nenuca Benitez, chatelaine of the iconic


45-year-old restaurant Marios, serves
a very traditional Spanish-Filipino
Christmas noche buena

By MICHAELA FENIX
Recipes by NENUCA BENITEZ | Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO

C
hristmas fare hardly ever changes. Thats because family members expect
and long for the comfort of traditional dishes. At the home of Nenuca
Villarreal Benitez, the lady behind the iconic restaurant Marios, noche buena
will always have roast turkey with the stufng served separately, and three
sidings: mashed sweetened yam, cranberry sauce and gravy. An array of
roasted vegetables will lie, colorful and crisp, next to the turkey, and a salad will
grace an elegant silver serving dish, glistening with dressing and topped with
chopped eggs. There will be a roast beef, and a classic potato-prawn salad. Lasagna
is a must, baked and served in her oldest rectangular Pyrex that she insists must be
cleaned only by her trained staff. And for dessert, a duo of lush, creamy leche an
and an apple walnut cake. For her family, both the Villarreals and the Benitezes, this
is just how it should be.

70 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


LADY OF THE
HOUR Nenuca
Benitez awaits
guests at her
noche buena
table

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 71


ENTERTAINING

Her table, set for noche regular Filipino family didnt


buena, is spread with an have. Her father worked with
antique tablecloth with a steamship company, so
squares of embroidered pink could get steaks, for instance,
owers interspersed with anytime.
dainty lace panels, bought
in Hong Kong back in the Adventures in food
day when everyone used Marios, the family restaurant
to order their nest table named after her husband,
linens from there. One end has been part of the local
of the table proclaims the culinary scene for 45 years,
Christmas spirit in acorns so one expects a bit of
and pine needles resting restaurant experience or
on a dried tree branch, a history in at least one side
decorative piece designed of the family. But there is
by Toni Parsons years ago. none. What happened is that
Nenuca Benitez surveys her circumstance paved the way
table with satisfaction, before to opening the restaurant.
pronouncing This is noche When her husband
buena from my mothers was assigned to Guam to
time.

Christmas past,
Christmas present
She declares that there
should also be a jamon en
dulce (ham with a sweet
sauce); for years this was
always Majestic ham. And
here she shares something
that made this interview
invaluable to me. Did you
know, she asks me, that the
original owner of Majestic
hams were the Cuisias? This
was the family whose most
famous son is Jose Jr., recent
ambassador to the United
States, president of PhilAm
Life and former Central Bank
governor. The Cuisias used to
have a small stall in Echague
(now Carlos Palanca Street)
in Quiapo, says Nenuca. work, Nenuca, cut off from
Later, they sold the Majestic a lifestyle with plenty of
brand to a Chinese family. househelp, was forced to
These days, Majestic is cook for the family. She
owned by the Pedrosa family. took with her a recipe box
Throughout all these full of her mothers Spanish
years, her noche buena dishes, her mother-in-laws
menu has been consistent. specialties from Pagsanjan,
But while the menu has Laguna and a few other
remained essentially the recipes she had collected.
same, the place of celebration She was careful to print the
has become smallershe source of each recipe, in
now hosts the meal in her small letters, on the side of
condominium instead of the each card. She still has this
sprawling house when her little black box, a treasure
children were younger. trove of delicious dishes, and
Her side of the family, CLASSIC NOCHE BUENA (From top) Classic Potato Salad (recipe on page 92); a testament to time when
Nenuca with her son, Anton, who is currently managing Marios on Tomas
the Villarreals, she says, Morato; the table set for Christmas dinner, complete with crystal and silver. recipes were handed down
have always had access to (Opposite) A traditional feast of Roast Stuffed Turkey and Fresh Baguio Beans rather than downloaded.
ingredients and food that a (recipes on page 92) After ve years in Guam,

72 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


FOOD |2016 Issue 4 73
ENTERTAINING
Apple Walnut
Cake
Makes one 8-inch cake served a limited menu of
Chateaubriand, paella and
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon steamed sh.
vegetable oil
1 cup white sugar Opening Marios
2 whole eggs Marios could not have
 FXSV FDNH RXU opened in 1971 without the
3 tablespoons + 1 help of Nenucas mother
teaspoon and the Zarraga sisters who
baking soda generously guided her. Most
1 teaspoon baking helpful of all was Heinz
powder Woelke, who founded the
 FDQ DSSOH OOLQJ restaurant New Europe
1/4 cup walnuts in Manila, known for
Continental fare like steak
1. Preheat oven to tartare, vichyssoise, baked
350F. Grease an Alaska and cherries jubilee.
8-inch pan. Set aside. Woelke, who had retired in
2. In a large bowl, beat Baguio, taught Nenuca the
oil and sugar until business end: how to handle
thick and opaque. Add portioning, for instance, and
eggs one at a time, pricing. She remembers how
beating well after each he liked to say that you can
addition. raise the price but never
3. In another bowl, lower the quality.
sift together cake But the biggest factor
RXU EDNLQJ VRGD DQG that helped establish Marios
baking powder. Add in Baguio, recalls Nenuca
to oil and egg mixture with amusement, was the
until well blended. declaration of martial law
4. Add walnuts and in 1972. No one could travel
DSSOH OOLQJ DOO DW abroad, so Baguio became the
once and stir batter vacation spot for the Manila
until pieces are evenly crowd. They swarmed the
distributed. restaurant, she says, so much
5. Pour batter into the that there were days when
greased pan. Bake for Marios would close as early
1 hour or until a cake as 9 PM because they had
tester comes out clean. run out of food!
Mario came back to the 6. Rest cake for 10 Recalling the rst menu
Philippines to work for minutes. Unmold and they ever served at Marios,
Singer Sewing Machine as pour topping (recipe she judged it horriblea
its marketing director in below) over warm mix of Filipino and Spanish,
the north. Baguio became cake. kare-kare and callos. But
his base, and thats where they improved with time,
the family settled in 1966. TOPPING : and some dishes became so
Nenuca was not one to just 1/4 cup sour cream beloved and popular that
stay home and do nothing, 1/2 teaspoon baking they are still being served
so she opened a dress shop soda today under the heading
where she designed the 2 tablespoons white Casa Specials. People
clothes that her costurera sugar who grew up with Marios
would execute. Her husband 1 1/2 tablespoons cooking still look for these
loved to eat, but there were walnuts dishes: Caesars salad made
very few places where one table-side, Lengua con Setas,
could dine in those days. Melt sour cream and Callos Madrilea, Corned
There was Baguio Country baking soda in a small Beef and Cabbage and Paella
Club where one had to be pan and stir in sugar. Valenciana.
a member, Camp John Hay Bring to a boil. Reduce Marios branched out
which was off limits to non- heat and cook for 4 to Makati where, Nenuca
Americans, Star Caf and the CHRISTMAS SPIRIT (From top) The minutes. Remove from recalls, her neighbors along
Apple Walnut Cake, while in the
Rose Bowl for Chinese food, background is Toni Parsons acorn heat and cool slightly. Makati Avenue are now
and Forest House, owned by and pine needles centerpiece; Nenuca Pour while still warm part of Manilas restaurant
Benitez relishes the joy of noche buena
the Zarraga sisters, which over cake. Garnish with historynames like Ninas
walnuts.

74 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Papagayo and Las Conchas, fruit to create a jam.
for example. The Makati The way she sets up her
branch closed down in 1985. table is inspired, like all her
In the 1980s, they tried entertaining tables, by her
to establish Marios in favorite book, the rst edition
Orange County, California. of Entertaining by Martha
A misadventure, she says. Stewart (Clarkson Potter,
Relatives supposedly in the 1982). She says she loves the
know with friends in the way Stewart xes her tables,
CIA, had told her that the with added touches. Nenuca
Philippines was going to had this book on hand for
become another Vietnam, this particular noche buena,
and advised that establishing and there on the cover was
a restaurant in the United Stewart, 30 years younger,
States would provide the standing at the head of the
family with a buffer. So table just like Nenuca is
she went to California to posed here.
become a restaurateur, while Some of her children now
husband Mario took care of manage branches of Marios FOOD THAT SPELLS CELEBRATION (Clockwise from top left) A very lush and
the restaurants here. The stint Marlo in Baguio and Anton creamy leche DQ .HQWXFN\ \DP VLGLQJVIRUWKHURDVWWXUNH\DQGDOOLQJ%HHI
lasted six years, she said, and on Tomas Morato. She says Lasagna (recipes on page 92)

was a waste because it never they always tell her to update


made money. the menu, to remove the
specials. Youd think shed
An enduring tradition listen to them, these children CELEBRATE WITH MARIOS
Nenucas noche buena table, of hers who have gone to Nenuca Benitezs wonderful traditional dishes
as pictured here, was set up elite culinary schools, but are available on order, either separately or as
at the Marios branch along Nenuca does not readily part of Marios catering menu. In fact, if you
Tomas Morato Avenue which comply. After all, she has want to throw the perfect, fuss-free party
opened in 1974. For 42 years, years of experience to back
it has been part of the city her up. What she wants her
without spending hours in the kitchen, Marios
scene, serving guests from children to have is her ability will help you create a personalized menu to
ofces, both government and to notice details. match the occasion. Your guests will appreciate
private, in Quezon City. She says she knows she their classic offeringsRoast Beef, Spanish
As she looked at her is eccentric. And that she dishes like Pollo Asado or Pescado en Salsa
noche buena table, Nenuca likes to dress up. Its red
Verde, and the popular Caesar Salad. Their
was reminded not only of her for the photo shoot today,
mothers table but also of the because its Christmas, and Paella Marinara or Valenciana is cooked on the
time when, while residing in also because that color suits spot and served fresh at your venue. For more
America, she made cranberry the ery, feisty persona that is information, visit www.marios.com.ph
sauce from scratch, using the Nenuca Villarreal Benitez.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 75


ENTERTAINING

Beef Lasagna Relleno de Pabo 1. Melt the butter over Fresh Baguio Beans
Serves 4 to 6 (Roast Stuffed medium heat. Whisk in Serves 6 to 8
Turkey) RXU VDOW DQG SHSSHU $GG
3 tablespoons Serves 12 to 15 drippings and chicken stock 1/2 kilo Baguio or French
minced garlic and mix thoroughly. beans
2 onions, chopped 1 whole turkey, 2. Strain the mixture into a salt and pepper, to taste
3 stalks celery, minced about 4 to 5 kilos bowl or a large gravy boat. 2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup minced carrots salt, to taste 3. Mix in the chopped 2 hard-boiled eggs, minced
2 tablespoons cooking oil 1 head garlic, crushed giblets as toppings. Garnish 1 tomato, minced
1 kilo ground beef 1/2 cup white wine with parsley.
1 1/2 tablespoons 1 kilo ground beef 1. Blanch Baguio or French
dried oregano 1 kilo ground pork Kentucky Yam beans in water. Toss in salt,
3 tablespoons 3 pieces chorizo Serves 6 pepper and olive oil.
minced parsley Bilbao, sliced 2. Arrange beans on a
1/2 cup white wine 3/4 cup raisins 6 large sweet potatoes, serving platter. Top with
1/2 cup diced tomato 2/3 cup olives peeled and sliced minced egg and tomato.
1 can tomato paste 3/4 cup pimientos 1 cup white sugar
2 cups water morrones, chopped 1/2 cup butter Leche Flan
salt and pepper, to taste 1/2 kilo chestnuts, 1/2 cup Tanduay rum or Serve 6
3 cups bchamel sauce peeled and chopped bourbon
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon 3 tablespoons pickle relish 1/2 teaspoon orange juice 1 cup white sugar
grated Parmesan cheese 6 eggs or vanilla extract, optional 1/2 cup water
2 cups grated mozzarella 1/4 cup butter, softened 1 can (370 ml) evaporated
cheese Baguio beans, blanched, 1. Boil sweet potatoes until milk
250 grams no-cook lasagna for garnish tender or cooked. 1 can (300 ml) condensed
sheets baby carrots, for garnish 2. Mash sweet potatoes then milk
add remaining ingredients. 2 eggs
1. Saut garlic, onions, 1. Marinate turkey in salt, Mix well to combine. 6 egg yolks
celery and carrots in oil. Add garlic and wine for 2 days. 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
the ground beef. 2. In a bowl, combine beef, Classic Potato Salad
2. Once beef is cooked, add pork, chorizo, raisins, olives, Serves 6 1. In a saucepan over
oregano, parsley, wine, diced pimientos, chestnuts, pickle medium heat, cook sugar
tomato and tomato paste. relish and eggs. Mix well. 1 kilo potatoes, peeled with water, stirring until
3. Add water and cook over 3. Preheat oven to 350F. water, enough to cover melted and light brown.
low heat for 3 hours. Season Stuff cavity of the turkey potatoes 2. 3RXU LQWR D DQ SDQ
with salt and pepper. with the meat mixture. salt, to taste ensuring that the bottom is
4. Spread meat sauce, Rub whole turkey with 1/4 cup mayonnaise totally coated. Set aside.
bchamel and sprinkle with butter. Cover loosely with 1 teaspoon mustard 3. In a bowl, gently whisk
some Parmesan cheese the aluminum foil. salt and pepper, to taste together evaporated milk,
bottom layer of a casserole. 4. Roast until cooked or 2 1/2 tablespoons sliced condensed milk, eggs, egg
5. Add lasagna sheets, golden brown, about 2 celery yolks and lemon juice. Strain
then spread meat sauce, 1/2 hours. Baste every 15 1 red onion, minced and pour into the prepared
bchamel, mozzarella and minutes with pan drippings. 1 hard-boiled egg, sliced pan and tap to remove any
Parmesan cheese. Repeat Insert a meat thermometer bubbles.
RUGHU WR OO WKH SDQ XQWLO DOO to the thickest part of the 1. Boil peeled potatoes in 4. Preheat oven to 350F.
the lasagna sheets are used. turkey. It should register salted water until tender Prepare bain-marie E\ OOLQJ
6. Fill the top with the 180F when done. or cooked. Let cool to room a pan with water to reach
remaining mozzarella 5. Garnish with Baguio temperature. halfway up the sides. Place
cheese and bake until beans and baby carrots. 2. Cut potatoes in dice and WKH DQ SDQ RYHU WKH ZDWHU
golden brown. 6HUYH ZLWK .HQWXFN\ \DP put in a salad bowl. Set and let bake for 45 minutes
giblet gravy (recipes below) aside. or until set. Remove from
COOKS NOTE and cranberry sauce. 3. In another bowl, mix oven.
To make bchamel sauce, mayonnaise, mustard, salt 5. Let cool completely.
over low heat, melt 1/4 GIBLET GRAVY : and pepper. Add diced Refrigerate overnight before
cup butter. Gradually add 2
WDEOHVSRRQV RXU VWLUULQJ 1/4 cup melted butter potatoes. serving.
constantly. Pour in 2 cups 3 tablespoons all-purpose 4. Add celery and onions and
milk and 2 cups chicken RXU mix well. Top with sliced
broth. Season with salt and 1/2 teaspoon salt and egg before serving.
pepper. Stir constantly until it
slightly thickens.
pepper
turkey pan drippings
2 cups chicken stock
JLEOHW OLYHU  FRRNHG QHO\ 
chopped
parsley, for garnish

76 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO | Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA

No shaking or stirring needed


Its the easiest thing to make a large batch of cocktails a
day before the party, but it can get tricky. To keep your
drink from getting too watery, we suggest to add the ice,
stir for a long minute, then remove the ice. Make your
garnishes ahead of time. Place a wet napkin on the bottom
of a plastic container, lay the prepped garnish on the
napkin, and cover with another wet napkinthis keeps
them from drying out. And make sure to have extra liquor
on hand to doctor hot toddies like this Hot Christmas
Cocktail, recipe on page 99.

SCANPan Saucepan set of three, True Home, Robinsons Magnolia and Greenbelt 5 FOOD |2016 Issue 4 77
HOME BASICS | D.I.Y.

PITCHER
PerfecT
Fabulous, fuss-
free cocktails
to liven up your
next party. Just
make them in
big batches, chill,
then pull them
out of the fridge
as soon as your
guests arrive
Recipes by KALEL DEMETRIO of Liquido Maestro
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO
Styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA

Tropical Island 1 dragon fruit, peeled


Punch and sliced
Serves 6
In a punch bowl, mix
1 bottle Vigan Basi together basi, tapuy and
1 1/2 cups tapuy moonshine. Stir vigorously
1/2 cup Barik Supremo until well blended. Stir in
Moonshine guava and pineapple juice.
2 cans guava juice Chill. Garnish with sliced
3 cans pineapple juice pineapple, lime, ginger and
2 limes, sliced dragon fruit.
1 small ginger, cut into
strips
Mila bowl, Crate&Barrel, SM Megamall

78 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


DRINKS BY LIQUIDO
MAESTRO Gin and Tonic Infusions Infuse all the ingredients in an airtight
Kalel Demetrio creates fantastic
cocktails, in single serve or large Serves 10 to 15 glass vessel for 1 day. To serve, pour
batches. We love how he makes his 60 ml in a wine glass or rock glass
cocktails unique with his innovative LEMON AND CUCUMBER : with ice. Top with tonic water, stir, and
use of Filipino ingredients and
produce, like local wines and berries. 1 1/4 cups Empire Gin garnish with rosemary sprigs, reserved
For more large-batch cocktail ideas, 2 cucumbers, thinly sliced lemon peel and cucumber slices.
get in touch with him through using a peeler
Liquido Maestro, his consultancy
UP+HOOFUHDWHGULQNVIRUDQ\SDUW\ 1 lemon, cut into 5 slices, CINNAMON AND ORANGE :
set up the bar and make everything peel reserved 1 1/4 cups Empire Gin
IXQDQGIXVVIUHH+HOOHYHQKROG
workshops to teach you how to do 5 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 cinnamon sticks
it yourself. Browse his Instagram 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary 2 oranges, sliced, peel reserved
to check out his homemade tonic water, for topping up 1 star anise
DYRUHGNRPEXFKDVFROGSUHVVHG
juices, infusions and bitters made 1/4 teaspoon peppercorns
using indigenous plants. Liquido 4 medium-size strawberries
Maestro, liquidomaestro@yahoo.com, tonic water, for topping up
Instagram: liquidomaestro, Facebook:
liquidomaestro
Infuse all the ingredients in an airtight
glass vessel for 1 day. To serve, pour
60 ml in a wine glass or rock glass
with ice. Top with tonic water then stir.
Garnish with strawberries, cinnamon
sticks, orange slices and peel.

Swizzle Gold drink glasses, Tino Decanter, Weck canning jar, Crate&Barrel, SM Megamall

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 79


HOME BASICS | D.I.Y.

Lime Mojito
Serves 4 to 6

1 1/2 tablespoons mint


leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons muscovado
sugar
5 limes, sliced
1 1/2 cups Palawan
White Rum
1 1/2 cups Manille Liqueur
de Calamansi
lemon soda, for topping up

Using a muddler or wooden spoon, muddle


or crush mint leaves with muscovado until
well broken down. Add limes and muddle
until juiced. Stir in rum and calamansi
liqueur, and top up with lemon soda.
Garnish with lime slices and mint leaves
before serving.

Cold drinks dispensers, coupe cocktail glass, Crate&Barrel, SM Megamall


80 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4
Margranderita
Serves 4 to 6

juice of 1 medium lime, peel


reserved
3/4 cup Orchid Trisec
1 1/2 cups Tequila Casadores
1 1/2 cups Manille Liqueur
de Dalandan
1 1/3 cups+ 1 tablespoon
dalandan juice
honey, to taste
1 teaspoon chopped turmeric

Steep reserved lime peel


with Orchid Trisec and lime
juice for 1 day. Stir together
tequila, lime-infused Trisec,
dalandan liqueur, dalandan
juice and honey. Add chopped
turmeric. Garnish with lime
and dalandan slices.

Hot Christmas
Cocktail
Serves 6

1 bottle red wine, like Pinot


Noir
1 1/2 cups Very Old Captain
Rum
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon Don
Papa Rum
1 teaspoon chopped dried
mangoes
2 oranges, sliced into wedges
1 teaspoon muscovado sugar
2 cinnamon sticks Pink Sangria
5 cloves Serves 6
2 teaspoons chopped pili
nuts 1 bottle ros wine,
1 teaspoon chopped almonds preferably Zinfandel
1 sprig fresh rosemary ros
Libbey Yucatan Crystal Pitcher, True Value
300 ml Palawan White
1. Combine red wine and 2 Rum
kinds of rum in a saucepan. 1 grapefruit, sliced
Add dried mangoes, oranges LETS GET BASIC 2 cans lychees, drained
and muscovado sugar. Stir The quality of your cocktails will depend on the excellence of 3 lemons, sliced
well. your base liquor. Dont skimp! Heres where you can source really 1 1/2 tablespoons mint
2. Add cinnamon sticks, good liquor to mix in your drinks: leaves
cloves, pili nuts, almonds and 2 teaspoons fresh
rosemary. Bring mixture to a DESTILERIA LIMTUACO makes superb Palawan White Rum, tarragon
boil, reduce heat and simmer Vigan Basi, Manille Liqueur de Calamansi, Manille Liqueur de
gently for 15 minutes or until Dalandan, Very Old Captain Rum and Orchid Trisec. Available In a large bowl, combine
DYRUVDUHZHOOEOHQGHG at SM Kultura, and in liquor stores and select supermarkets ros wine and rum. Add
Skim wine from time to time nationwide grapefruit, lychees and
to remove foam. BARIK SUPREMO MOONSHINE Order from Liquido lemons. Refrigerate until
3. Taste and add more Maestro at (0917) 999-7572, (0917) 874-6422 well chilled, about 1 hour.
muscovado if needed. Ladle TAPUY Order from proudlypromdi@gmail.com Garnish with mint leaves
into cups and provide spoons DON PAPA RUM Available in liquor stores and select and fresh tarragon.
to eat almonds and fruit. supermarkets nationwide. Or call (0917) 881-2583

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 81


HOME BASICS | cooking class

Macarons
Made Easy
Discover the foolproof French meringue method for making this iconic pastry

T
Text and recipes by JOE Y PR AT S | Photography by PAU L DE L ROSA RIO

he epitome of French elegance, grandson of Louis Ernest Ladure, had the


macarons are sweet meringue-based idea to ll them with a chocolate panache Macarons
cookies that are almost always and to stick them together, forming a kind Makes 24 macarons
colored to reect the avors of the of macaron sandwich. Since then, macarons
various llings that go into them. have been nationally acclaimed in France, 1 cup + 2 teaspoons
The term macaron has the same origin and are still consistent bestsellers in (125 grams) ground
as the word macaroniboth of which patisseries. blanched almonds
mean ne dough. Pierre Desfontaines, the 1 2/3 cups (200 grams)
confectioners sugar
3 1/3 large (100
grams) aged egg
whites
1/4 cup (50 grams)
caster sugar
1 teaspoon (5 grams)
soft gel paste food
color

The perfect macaron


Its name is derived from
WKH,WDOLDQZRUGbmaccarone.
The confection is
characterized by its
smooth, slightly domed
WRSUXIHGFLUFXPIHUHQFH
(referred to as the foot)
DQGDWEDVH,WKDVD
delicately crisp exterior
and a moist, chewy interior.

82 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


1 2 3 4
Line 2 half-size (18 x Place aged egg whites In a large bowl using Scrape the macaron
13 x 1-inch) sheet pans in a mixer bowl. a large rubber spatula, batter into a large
with nonstick baking Using the wire whip combine the meringue pastry bag tted with
paper. Process ground attachment, whip on high with the dry ingredients. a #804 pastry tip. Using a
blanched almonds and speed for 2 minutes until it Once incorporated, begin 90-degree angle, with the
confectioners sugar in the reaches the stiff peak stage. a series of scratching and tip about 3/8-inch from the
bowl of a food processor with Add caster sugar and soft gel folding techniques (see surface of the sheet pan, pipe
the metal blade attached on paste food color. Continue sidebar). Do 20 scratches, macaron batter into discs
high speed for 2 minutes. Pass whipping meringue on high followed by 4 folds. Repeat 1 1/3-inches in diameter.
mixture through a medium- speed for 2 minutes until very this process 4 more times, for This recipe should yield 48
mesh sieve and set aside. stiff. a total of 100 scratches and macaron shells.
20 folds. The batter should
be of a lava-like consistency,
CHEFS NOTE owing in a smooth,
To age your egg whites, place fresh egg whites in a clean and sanitized continuous stream as it falls
container. Cover with plastic wrap. Punch several holes through the plastic off from the spatula.
wrap. Refrigerate the egg whites for at least 7 days. Start with more egg
whites than the recipe calls for, as the weight of the aged egg whites will be
VLJQLFDQWO\ OHVV GXH WR WKH HYDSRUDWLRQ RI VRPH RI LWV ZDWHU FRQWHQW

5 6 7 8
To break down air Preheat the oven to Transfer lling to a Press both shells
bubbles, tap the trays 325F. Once macaron pastry bag tted with together, twisting
several times until the shells are dry, bake for a #804 pastry tip. slightly, until lling
macaron discs spread to 1 15 to 18 minutes, or until they Arrange half of the baked spreads to the edge of the
3/4 inches in diameter. Set are puffed, rm and their macaron shells upside down shells. As a general rule, do
sheet pans aside and allow feet are well developed. on a clean half-size sheet pan not allow the lling to go
macaron shells to dry, which Remove sheet pans from the lined with nonstick baking beyond the circumference
will take anywhere from 30 oven and cool macaron shells paper. Pipe lling in 1 1/4- of the shells. Place the
minutes to 1 hour. To test completely. Fill with desired inch mounds onto the shells, assembled macarons in
the macaron shells, touch macaron llings (see recipe and then top with remaining a sealed container and
the surface lightly with your in the next page). shells. refrigerate overnight before
nger. It should be dry and serving.
not tacky.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 83


HOME BASICS | cooking class

LEARN THE MACARON LINGO

SCRATCHING FOLDING FEET


This is an action that is similar to Use a rubber spatula to cut down This is a word used to describe the
mashing bananas or potatoes. Using a vertically through the two mixtures macarons rufed circumference. The
large rubber spatula, press the batter (the meringue and the almond our- higher the feet, the more gorgeous the
down against the bottom of the bowl confectioners sugar mixture) across the macarons.
while slowly but continuously rotating bottom of the bowl and up the nearest
the bowl as you scratch the batter. side. The bowl is rotated a quarter turn
with each series of strokes.

Macaron Fillings almond extract 1. Combine all E- COOKBOOKS BY


CHEF JOEY PRATS
Makes enough for 24 1 cup ground ingredients except
These macaron recipes are from
macarons pistachio nuts, ground nuts in a &KHI -RH\ 3UDWV UVW HFRRNERRN
lightly toasted double boiler set Best 100 Recipes. He also has
Macarons can be over medium heat. hundreds of other sumptuous
lled with a variety ESPRESSO Stir mixture until UHFLSHV IRU FDNHV DQG SDVWULHV LQ
of llings, including 250 grams white chocolate is melted KLV VHFRQG HFRRNERRN To Die
ganache, buttercream chocolate, chopped and the ganache is For DV ZHOO DV LQ KLV MXVWUHOHDVHG
and jams. The 1/2 cup + 2 smooth. Remove WKLUG HFRRNERRN Drop Dead
following llings are tablespoons heavy from heat and stir in Gorgeous.
all made of ganache whipping cream ground nuts.
Visit Joey Prats School of Baking
(a basic mixture of 1 tablespoon + 1 2. Transfer to a clean
& Pastry Arts on Facebook, call
chocolate and heavy teaspoon instant bowl. Lay a sheet of (02) 831-2688, or email joeyprats@
whipping cream), with coffee powder plastic wrap directly gmail.com
the addition of ground 1 cup ground on the surface of
nuts for added texture blanched almonds, the ganache. This
and avor. lightly toasted SUHYHQWV D VNLQ IURP
forming. Cover the
PISTACHIO DARK CHOCOLATE bowl with another
250 grams white 250 grams dark sheet of plastic wrap.
chocolate, chopped chocolate, chopped $OORZ JDQDFKH WR UP
1/2 cup + 2 1/2 cup + 2 up overnight at room
tablespoons heavy tablespoons heavy temperature.
whipping cream whipping cream
1/4 teaspoon electric 1 cup ground
green soft gel paste blanched almonds,
food color lightly toasted
1/2 teaspoon pure

84 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


HOME BASICS | light & right

GUILT-FREE
Treat your health-conscious friends and family
to a light yet sumptuous noche buena
By GINNY MATA
Recipes and styling by NANCY DIZON - EDRALIN | Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA

A
fter too many
hearty holiday
dinners with
friends and
family, our
clothes begin to feel
a little bit tighter, and
we sometimes have to
loosen our belts by a
notch or two when no
ones looking. It doesnt
have to be that way! By
choosing heart-healthy
ingredients like olive oil
and ricotta, and using
reduced-fat cooking
techniques like roasting
and stir-frying, holiday
feasts can actually be
healthy, good-for-you
AND delicious, too.
In this issue, Chef
Nancy Dizon-Edralin
shares her recipes
for low-fat, avorful
and nutritious dishes
perfect for all kinds of
special occasions, like
birthdays, noche buena
and media noche.

Baste it to make it better


Basting can help keep chicken moist while roasting. It can
also aid in browning the skin, and in distributing the pan
juices evenly over the meat while its cooking. Remove the
chicken out of the oven every 15 to 20 minutes, then use
a baster or basting spoon to pour the pan drippings over
the chicken. You can also remove the vegetables halfway
through cooking to prevent them from overcooking.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 85


Roasted Rosemary, Lemon &RRN XQWLO DN\
and Garlic Chicken The cardinal rule is this: do NOT
Serves 4 to 6 overcook the salmon. Test the
WKLFNHVW SDUW RI WKH VDOPRQ OOHW
1 whole chicken 5 minutes before the end of the
kosher salt, to taste estimated cooking time. Use a
freshly ground black pepper, to taste fork to carefully poke through the
1 bunch fresh rosemary OOHW WR VHH LI LW DNHV DSDUW HDVLO\
1 bunch fresh thyme For the salad, you can substitute
1 lemon, cut in half crosswise arugula, lettuce bib or lola rosa for
1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise the lettuce. You can also switch out
the chicken eggs for quail eggs.
SAUCE FOR BRUSHING :
1/4 cup soy sauce
 WHDVSRRQ OHPRQ MXLFH
1/4 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
 WHDVSRRQ FKRSSHG WK\PH
 WHDVSRRQ FKRSSHG JDUOLF

ROASTED VEGETABLES :
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 bunch fresh rosemary
3 lemons, sliced into rounds
3 heads garlic, cut in half crosswise
1/4 kilo marble potatoes
1/4 kilo carrots, peeled and sliced
1/4 kilo green beans
2 tablespoons olive oil
kosher salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Place the


FKLFNHQ LQ D ODUJH URDVWLQJ SDQ
2. Sprinkle the chicken cavity with salt
and black pepper. Stuff the cavity with
rosemary, thyme, 2 lemon halves and
2 garlic halves. Tie the legs together
with kitchen string.
3. To make the sauce for brushing,
blend soy sauce, lemon juice, olive oil,
rosemary, thyme and garlic in a small Salmon Salad with Red Wine SALAD MIX :
ERZO 8VH WKLV PL[WXUH WR EUXVK WKH Vinaigrette  NLOR PL[HG VDODG JUHHQV
outside of the chicken. Serves 4 1/2 kilo green beans, trimmed,
4. To make the roasted vegetables, in blanched
another bowl, drizzle all the herbs and  VDOPRQ OOHWV DSSUR[LPDWHO\ 4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced
vegetables for roasting in olive oil, and grams each  FXS VOLFHG UHG RQLRQ
season with salt and pepper. Arrange  WDEOHVSRRQV ROLYH RLO
YHJHWDEOHV DURXQG WKH FKLFNHQ  WHDVSRRQ NRVKHU VDOW 1. Preheat oven to 350F.
5. Roast at 350F for 1 hour 30 minutes 1 teaspoon black pepper 2. 'UL]]OH HDFK OOHW ZLWK ROLYH RLO
or until fully cooked. Baste the chicken 2 teaspoons dried parsley Sprinkle with salt, black pepper and
using the pan drippings every 30 GULHG SDUVOH\ 3ODFH VK RQ D EDNLQJ
PLQXWHV RED WINE VINAIGRETTE : pan, skin side down. Cook for 8 to
6. 7UDQVIHU FKLFNHQ WR D SODWWHU DQG  FXS UHG ZLQH YLQHJDU  PLQXWHV RU XQWLO VK LV DN\ DQG
brush with pan drippings. Garnish  WDEOHVSRRQV H[WUDYLUJLQ ROLYH RLOb cooked through.
platter with roasted vegetables.  WDEOHVSRRQV 'LMRQ PXVWDUG 3. In a small bowl, combine vinegar,
 WDEOHVSRRQV PLQFHG VKDOORWV olive oil, Dijon mustard, shallots, salt
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt and black pepper. Stir well with a wire
WHDVSRRQbEODFNSHSSHU whisk. Set aside.
4. On a serving plate, arrange the
PL[HG JUHHQV JUHHQ EHDQV HJJ
slices and red onion. Top with the
roasted salmon. Drizzle with red wine
vinaigrette.

86 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


HOME BASICS | light & right

Pasta a la Norma ground black pepper, to 2. Add eggplants, simmer for Go gluten-free
Serves 4 WDVWH 3 to 5 minutes. Add whole If youd like to make this
 NLOR FKHUU\ WRPDWRHV peeled tomatoes, oregano dish gluten-free, switch
 FXS ROLYH RLO  JUDPV SHQQH ULJDWH DQG UHG SHSSHU DNHV out the penne for gluten-
 PHGLXP RQLRQ KDOYHG cooked al dente 6LPPHU IRU  PLQXWHV free pasta, rice noodles,
WKLQO\ VOLFHG 1/2 cup fresh basil, torn 3. Season with salt and black or spiralized zucchini
6 cloves garlic, sliced 1 cup ricotta cheese SHSSHU $GG FKHUU\ WRPDWRHV noodles. To make it more
1/4 kilo eggplant, cut into 1/4 cup fresh basil, for and cook until softened. OOLQJ \RX FDQ DOVR DGG
1-inch cubes garnish Turn off heat, then add chicken breast or shrimp
 FXS ZKROH SHHOHG SHQQH ULJDWH SDVWD DQG IUHVK to this dish. Other possible
tomatoes, chopped 1. In a large skillet, heat torn basil. Season to taste substitutions include
 WHDVSRRQ GULHG RUHJDQR oil over medium heat. ZLWK VDOW DQG EODFN SHSSHU other kinds of soft cheese
1/4 teaspoon red pepper Add onions and cook until 4. 7UDQVIHU WR D SODWH 7RS like cottage cheese, and
DNHV softened. Add garlic and each plate with ricotta and other types of pasta
NRVKHUVDOWWRWDVWHb cook until golden brown. garnish with basil. like angel hair, fusilli or
spaghetti.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 87


HOME BASICS | simply desserts

country
Its time to bring back these classic rice-based sweets from our culinary past
By GINNY MATA

A
Recipes by HENY SISON | Styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN

s Filipinos, we often associate rice-based sweets or did is an act of pure love and devotion, and Chef Henys own
native kakanin with being home, and being with our way of paying tribute to her mother. As a staunch advocate
families. Chef Heny Sison is no different: she teaches of traditional Filipino cuisine like kakanin, she also believes
kakanin classes at her school using the same heirloom there is a real need to preserve our rich food heritage. Young
recipes that her own mother Lily Banzon taught her. people dont seem to be interested in kakanin any more,
(My mother) used to hold such classes here (at my school), so Im slowly trying to revive these heirloom recipes, she
and Ive decided to continue her tradition, says Chef Heny. explains.
As such, making kakanin in the same way that her mother

88 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Secrets to kutsinta
success
7KH OHDVW FDORULF RI Maja Mais
these glutinous rice cakes, Serves 8 to 12
kutsinta gets its chewiness
IURP WKH O\H WKDW LV XVHG LQ 7 cups coconut milk
WKH UHFLSH %H VXUH WR VWHDP 1 can whole corn kernels
the kutsinta FRQWLQXRXVO\ 1/2 cup salted butter
LQ WKH VWHDPHU RWKHUZLVH 1 cup white sugar
the kutsintaV QLVK ZLOO 2 cups cornstarch
EH URXJK DQG EXEEO\ 1 can evaporated milk

1. &RPELQHFRFRQXWPLON
ZKROHFRUQNHUQHOVVDOWHG
EXWWHUDQGVXJDULQDZRN
Bring to a boil.
Kutsinta 2.,QDVPDOOERZOGLVVROYH
Serves 6 FRUQVWDUFKLQWKHHYDSRUDWHG
PLON3RXUWKLVFRUQVWDUFK
coconut oil, for brushing PL[WXUHLQWRWKHKHDWHG
 FXSV DOOSXUSRVH RXU FRFRQXWPL[WXUH6WLUXQWLO
1 cup white sugar thick.
1 cup brown sugar 3. While hot, pour into a
2 1/2 cups water UHFWDQJXODUWUD\6SUHDGHYHQO\
1 tablespoon lye XVLQJDQRIIVHWVSDWXOD/HW
grated coconut, for topping FRRODWURRPWHPSHUDWXUHRQD
ZLUHUDFN2QFHLWVFRPSOHWHO\
1. %UXVK WKH VPDOO kutsinta FRRO\RXFDQVWRUHLWLQWKH
PROGV ZLWK FRFRQXW RLO 6HW UHIULJHUDWRU
DVLGH 4.-XVWEHIRUHVHUYLQJWRSZLWK
2. Bring water to a rolling boil latik (recipe below).
LQ WKH VWHDPHU
3. ,Q D ODUJH ERZO FRPELQH DOO LATIK :
LQJUHGLHQWV H[FHSW WKH JUDWHG 5 cups fresh coconut cream
FRFRQXW 0L[ XQWLO VPRRWK DQG
IUHH IURP OXPSV 6WUDLQ 1.,QDZRNVHWRYHUORZWR
4. 7UDQVIHU WR VTXHH]H ERWWOHV PHGLXPKHDWFRRNWKHFRFRQXW
RU OLTXLG PHDVXULQJ FXSV IRU FUHDPZLWKRXWVWLUULQJXQWLOLW
HDV\ SRXULQJ +DOIOO VPDOO VWDUWVWRWKLFNHQDQGLWVOLJKW
kutsinta PROGV DQG VWHDP IRU brown coconut oil begins to
 PLQXWHV &RRO IRU  PLQXWHV separate.
WKHQ UHPRYH IURP WKH VWHDPHU 2.:KHQVOLJKWO\WKLFNHQHG
5. $OORZ WR FRRO WKHQ VHUYH PL[ZLWKDZRRGHQVSRRQXQWLO
ZLWK IUHVKO\ JUDWHG FRFRQXW JROGHQLQFRORU
3.7KRURXJKO\GUDLQWKHlatik,
UHVHUYLQJDOLWWOHRIWKHRLOWR
EUXVKRQWRSRIWKHmaja,I\RX
ZDQWWRUHVHUYHWKHlatik IRU
later use, keep it in a bottle,
WRSSHGZLWKFRFRQXWRLO

Make it extra special


)RU\RXUQHDUHVWDQGGHDUHVW
\RXFDQDGGRQHH[WUDFDQ
RIZKROHFRUQNHUQHOVWR
WKHGLVK,WVDOVRHDV\WR
WXUQWKLVLQWR.DSDPSDQJDQ
tibok-tibokE\VLPSO\
UHSODFLQJWKHFRFRQXWPLON
ZLWKFDUDEDRVPLON)ROORZ
WKHUHFLSHDFFRUGLQJO\

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 89


Patopat with Panutsa Sauce the patopatOHDYLQJDOLWWOHVSDFHWRIROG
Serves 12 RYHUWKHWRSRIWKHOHDI6HFXUHZLWKNLWFKHQ
WZLQHRUZLOWHGEDQDQDOHDIVWULQJ
1 1/2 kilos glutinous rice 6.6WHDPFRQHVIRUPLQXWHV&RRORQD
steamed banana leaves wire rack.
3 cups water 7.6HUYHZLWKpanutsa sauce (recipe below)
3 cups coconut cream DQGPDQJRHVLIGHVLUHG
1 tablespoon + 1 1/2 teaspoons rock salt
PANUTSA SAUCE:
1. Wash the glutinous rice in water. Then 1 young coconut (buko), meat shredded
VRDNLQZDWHUIRUPLQXWHV6HWDVLGH 1 cup water
2. &XWEDQDQDOHDYHVLQWR[LQFK 1/4 cup brown sugar
UHFWDQJXODUVKDSHV/LJKWO\SDVVHDFKSLHFH 1/4 cup water
RYHUWKHUHRQWKHVWRYHWRSWRZLOWLWDQG 1/2 cup panutsa, coarsely chopped
PDNHLWHDVLHUWRKDQGOH6HWDVLGH
3. 'UDLQWKHVRDNHGULFHDQGWKURZDZD\ 1. %RLO\RXQJVKUHGGHGFRFRQXWPHDWLQ
the water. ZDWHUIRUWRPLQXWHV'UDLQWKHQVHW
4. /LQHWKHERWWRPRIDULFHFRRNHU DVLGH
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DVWKRXJK\RXZHUHFRRNLQJSODLQULFH6HW &RRNIRUPLQXWHVXQWLOLWDEVRUEVWKH
DVLGHWRFRRO GLVVROYHGEURZQVXJDUPL[WXUH
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ZLWKDERXWKHDSLQJWHDVSRRQVRIWKH XQSOHDVDQWWRHDWOLNHWKLFNHQHGbukayo.
FRRNHGOOLQJ)ROGDQGVTXHH]HWRVKDSH

Patopat tips
PatopatLVWKH,ORFDQRYHUVLRQRIsuman. While
cooking the patopat in the rice cooker, check
LWHYHU\PLQXWHV,ILWVVWLOOQRWFRRNHGDQG
DOOWKHOLTXLGKDVDOUHDG\HYDSRUDWHGDGG
PRUHFRFRQXWFUHDPWRWKHULFH,I\RXUHQRW
eating the patopat ULJKWDZD\\RXFDQIUHH]H
WKHPDIWHUWKH\YHFRROHGGRZQFRPSOHWHO\
%HIRUHVHUYLQJUHKHDWWKHPLQWKHPLFURZDYH
IRUVHFRQGV$OVRNQRZQDVtagapulot
in Ilocano, panutsaLVKDUGFDQHVXJDUFDNH
PROGHGLQFRFRQXWVKHOOVDQGLVDYDLODEOHLQ
ZHWPDUNHWVDQGVHOHFWHGVXSHUPDUNHWV

Teaching culinary
heritage
$WWKH+HQ\6LVRQ&XOLQDU\
6FKRRO&KHI+HQ\6LVRQDQG
KHUFRIDFXOW\FRQWLQXRXVO\
GHYHORSPRGXOHVOLNH
WKHVHQDWLYHkakanin
FODVVHVWRKHOSRXWPLFUR
HQWUHSUHQHXUVRUVWDUWXS
HQWHUSULVHVZLWKOLPLWHG
EXGJHWV33 Boni Serrano
Avenue corner Sunrise Drive,
Crame, Quezon City. Call (02)
726-5316, (0918) 371-5478,
(0915) 264-7970, or email
info@henysison.com. Visit
www.henysison.com for the
latest class schedule.

90 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

Noche Buena
REDUX
Turn last nights leftovers into easy, delicious comfort food
Text, recipes and styling by PIXIE RODRIGO SEVILLA | Photography by PAULO VALENZUELA

T
Props styling by TINA CONCEPCION DIAZ

he morning after Christmas is whether you should store them in the


one of the laziest of the year. refrigerator, or maybe you should just
You feel too tired to get up, but give them away. But then again, no
youre hungryand so is the one likes receiving leftovers, and the
rest of your family. You walk refrigerator is already way too full!
barefoot into the kitchen and discover What do you do? I say, why not create
all the leftover food from last nights sumptuous new dishes from these
festivities. So you begin thinking about leftovers? Here are some suggestions.

Candy Cane Syrup


Makes about 2 cups

1/2 cup sugar


1 1/2 cups water
6 to 8 candy canes

1. Place sugar and water


LQDSRW6LPPHURYHU
PHGLXPKHDW
2. Add in the candy cane
SLHFHVZKLOHWKHPL[WXUH
LVVLPPHULQJWKHQOHWLW
ERLOIRUWRPLQXWHV
3. Let cool. Pour into
bottles or desired
storage containers.

Pour it on everything!
6HUYHWKLVV\UXSZLWKSDQFDNHVDQGZDIHVRUXVHLWDVDVZHHWHQHU
IRUFRFNWDLOVFRIIHHKRWFKRFRODWHVRXIVLFHFUHDPRUDQ\SODLQ
pound or butter cake. You can substitute the candy canes with any
other kind of hard candy, like butterscotch.

The Just Slate Company copper nesting bowl and teaspoon, True Home (Robinsons Magnolia and Greenbelt 5)

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 91


HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

Breakfast Casserole 1. Heat oven to 350F and grease two


Serves 4 PXIQ SDQV
2. 3ODFH EUHDG SLHFHV DWWKHERWWRPRI
2 cups leftover bread pieces, coarsely WKH PXIQ SDQV
chopped 3. 3ODFH VKUHGGHG PHDWRQWRSRIWKH
2 cups shredded lechon meat or any bread pieces.
protein left over from noche buena 4. Sprinkle 1 cup of grated cheddar
(ham, roast chicken, etc.) FKHHVH RYHU WKH PHDW
1 cup grated cheddar cheese 5. %HDW  HJJV ZLWK PLONDQGSRXURYHU
6 whole eggs WKH PHDW DQG FKHHVH PL[WXUH
1/2 cup milk 6. 6SULQNOH UHPDLQLQJ FKHHVHRYHUWKH
1/2 cup grated mozzarella cheese top and season with salt and pepper.
salt and pepper, to taste 7. %DNH IRU  WR  PLQXWHVXQWLOWKH
eggs are set.

Savory surprise
Feel free to use any other
OHIWRYHUPHDWVOLNHWXUNH\
KDPlechon, bacon or roast
chicken. You can repurpose any
kind of leftover bread too. You
can also bake it in individual
UDPHNLQVRULQDUHFWDQJXODU
ovenproof glass dish.

92 FOOD | 2016 Issue 3


The Day After 1/2 cup grated cheddar 3. Add cheese and stir, then
Make it more Christmas Noodles cheese TXLFNO\DGGWKHUDPHQ
luscious Serves 2 to 4 2 packages instant ramen 4. Mix up the noodles,
You can use other 1 cup minced Christmas ham and when they separate,
kinds of sharp and water (amount according to VWLUWKHPFRQVWDQWO\XQWLO
hard cheeses, but it package instructions) 1. In a pot, add the water, the noodles are soft and
LVLPSRUWDQWWRXVH 1/4 cup butter butter, olive oil and a good FRPSOHWHO\FRYHUHGLQWKH
cheddar cheese to 1 tablespoon olive oil DPRXQWRIIUHVKO\JURXQG VDXFH7RVVLQWKHKDP
thicken the sauce. freshly ground pepper black pepper. 5. Serve in a bowl, and add
+LJKHUHQGUDPHQ 1 cup grated queso de bola 2. Bring to a boil, stir, then PRUHIUHVKO\JURXQGSHSSHU
noodles are good too, UHGXFHWRDVLPPHU on top.
but do not over cook
WKHP<RXFDQDOVR
DGGFUHDPWRPDNHLW
HYHQPRUHGHFDGHQW

Festival Christmas Ham courtesy


of Swift; SCANPan Saucepan set
of three, True Home (Robinsons
Magnolia and Greenbelt 5)

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 93


FOOD TOUR

94 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Silang, Cavite is slowly coming into its own, with
its growing reputation for organic produce and its
evolving restaurant scene
By YVETTE TAN
Photography by RICKY LADIA

S
Produced by GINNY MATA

ilang has always had a strong tradition of farming,


thanks to the commitment of its hard-working people
to make full use of its rich agricultural land, rolling
terrain and nutrient-rich soil. An abundance of
crops, access to fresh seafood, plus culinary traditions
inuenced by the Chinese, Spanish and Mexicans (via the
Manila-Acapulco galleon trade route) have shaped its rich
foodways. Its proximity to Tagaytay, with its booming tourism
and restaurant industry, has also enabled Silang to begin to
develop a more modern take on the ways that they eat and
cook.
Here, Silangs residents place a premium on taking
it slow and savoring life. Weve collected the thoughts
and impressions of some of Silangs food stalwarts, both
homegrown and its many adopted residents, on how the area
has embraced its agricultural bounty.

The breadth and width


of Gejo Jimenezs
Malipayon Farms in
Silang, Cavite

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 95


FOOD TOUR

Going back to the beginning

SPECIALTY
A TOUR OF MALIPAYON FARMS (Clockwise from top left) Just one
among the many crops Jimenez grows on Malipayon Farms, Holy
ORGANIC
Moly, or what Gejo calls jalabuyo because it looks like jalapeo, PRODUCE BY
but tastes like siling labuyo; goto cola, a kind of herbal plant thats MALIPAYON
used to treat heart disease; radish or Albanian microgreens, used by
FARMS
Malipayon Farms chefs to garnish their dishes; superfood amaranth, in red and green;
towering adlai also grows in abundance on the farm; Gejo Jimenez
stands proudly over his farm; baby mustard or mustasa
ASIAN CULINARY
HERBS Vietnamese
Many farm-to-table mint, galangal, Thai
restaurants in Metro Manila basil, cilantro, sawtooth
look to Silang for organic coriander, curry leaves
fresh produce, valuing not WESTERN CULINARY
just its proximity, but their HERBS 7DUUDJRQ DW OHDI
relationship with the farmers parsley, Italian oregano,
as well. Former athlete sweet basil, mint
and insurance agent Gejo MICROGREENS
Jimenez began Malipayon Corn sprouts, radish
Farms in 2007 because of his microgreens, mustard
love of plants and his lifelong microgreens, micro
dream of starting his own arugula
business. He supplies hard- BABY VEGETABLES
to-nd vegetables to some Baby carrots, French
of Manilas best restaurants, beans, baby cucumbers
working directly with top WILD GREENS Pansit-
chefs like Chele Gonzalez , , pansitan, sorrel, purslane
(Vask), JP Anglo (Sarsa), the complex community establishments, families LETTUCE Lolla bonda,
Margarita Fors (Cibo, of living organisms in the and consumers that make lollo rossa, romaine
Grace Park), Allen Buhay farm that makes it capable the activities of growing, SALAD GREENS
(Wildour), Bruce Ricketts of producing life-giving, distributing, cooking and Arugula (baby, petite
(Mecha Uma) and Nicco sustainable, healthy and eating truly enriching and regular size), tatsoi,
Santos (Hey Handsome). delicious produce. and unifying. What really mizuna
Malipayon utilizes Commerce aside, what appeals to me is this sense CHILI PEPPERS
organic biodynamic farming farming has really done for of wonderuna, buto lang, Jalabuyo, siling labuyo,
which Gejo explains Gejo is to give him a chance parang patay yan, tapos habanero
thus: We do everything to get closer to nature, his pag nabuhay, it becomes FILIPINO SPECIALTY
naturallycrop rotation, family and his community. something that can sustain PRODUCE Alugbati
composting, vermiculture. He shares, It is the personal us. And when chefs use tendrils, silang ube
We combine some plants in and communal relationships it, they can do something (purple yam)
the same plot so we dont among farmers, farming magical with it.

96 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


ECHOfarms
There is a worldwide thrust
to equip women with the
tools and knowledge to
become better farmers. Chit
Juan, who is part of the Slow
Food Movement and is active
in the international organic
farming scene, champions
this in the Philippines with
her ECHO Sustainable
Lifestyle Brand, which
includes ECHOfarms located
in adjacent Amadeo, Cavite.
ECHOfarms plants
organic produce and sells
them at ECHOmarket
in Manila and in the
ECHOfarms organic market
in Amadeo. The farm was
instrumental in the creation
of the Association of
Women in Organic Farming
(AWOF), a community of
women farmers in Cavite.
With now over 25 members,
the AWOF women have a
readily available marketplace
for their organic produce
(e.g., kale and arugula), not
just in ECHOfarms, but
in places like Robinsons
Summit Mall, various Earth
markets, bazaars and other
tourism-directed events in
Tagaytay.
Many of the women
farmers feel that their lives
have signicantly improved
because of organic farming
and the AWOF. Take Ferrie
Suan. When their crops were
failing, her husband, a former MARKET DAY At the Amadeo
OFW seaman, thought they Organic Community Market or
should give up farming and ECHOmarket in Banaybanay,
Amadeo, the Association of Women
relocate to Manila, but Suans in Organic Farming (AWOF) sells
introduction to AWOF made its freshly harvested produce every
them reconsider. Young and Friday, Saturday and Sunday
educated Jamie Jarabejo also
initially did not think there
was a market for her organic THE COFFEE OF CAVITE
okra and ampalaya, but she Cafe Amadeo Development Cooperative offers
changed her mind when the nest robusta, arabica, liberica and excelsa
she met the AWOF women. green beans, to make their own Pahimis and
They encouraged her to be a Premium blends. Expertly roasted by the coffee
model for young women who masters of upland Cavite, these can be purchased
otherwise would not choose at pasalubong stops in Silang and Tagaytay like
farming as a career. Because Rekados Caf and Restaurante, as well as Caf
of their work as farmers, both Amadeo in nearby Amadeo, Cavite.
Suan and Jarabejo are now
able to adequately provide for
themselves and their families.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 97


FOOD TOUR

COUNTRY STYLE CAVITEO COOKING (From


left) Asiongs signature dishes, clockwise
from top, light and refreshing sweetened
guyabano tea; freshly baked Pan de Troso;
fried chicken seasoned with fresh rosemary
grown in their backyard; their trademark
Pancit Pusit or Pancit en su Tinta; sliced
Pan de Troso with absolutely delicious
Quesillo; Morcon made using organically
raised pork; Callos made the Caviteo way;
the bounty of the sea as expressed in Sonny
and Giboys Dalahican Soup (recipe on page
123). (Above) Business partners and friends
Sonny Lua and Giboy Sarayba celebrate
Caviteo food then and now in Asiong

the-wall panaderia (where)


the baker was too lazy to cut
the dough into individual
pieces and knead it, so he just
made it into a log and baked
it. (This was) long before we
had the French baguette,
Giboy recounts. He makes
his Pan de Troso with a
sourdough starter, sprinkling
the dough with fresh herbs
from their garden. Just like
in Mexico, it is served with
Sonnys homemade quesillo
or housemade carabaos milk
cheese, like mozzarella, with
rosemary, thyme, basil and
garlic. Theres also Dalahican
Soup, a tomato-based seafood
soup named after a place in
Cavite where shermen dock
their boats and people gather

From farm to plate


to buy the freshest catch. It
was inspired by the partners
restaurants signature soups:
Asiongs nilagang baka and
is none other than Josephine, that we are a high-end dining Josephines Mutya ng Cavite.
Asiong whose eponymous restaurant place. No ne dining. This is These two culinary icons
This beloved Cavite is famous for its classic country style. of Cavite are proud of their
institution started as a sari- Filipino cuisine. Here, plebeian food is new venture to promote
sari store in Cavite City in At Asiong, guests elevated to a higher standard Caviteo food. And they
1959, eventually becoming a dine in an open-air patio by using fresh produce and are equally proud of their
hole-in-the-wall carinderia. decorated with paintings locally sourced ingredients. proximity to the freshest
Having just relocated to a that reect its beginnings, We always had food even ingredients, some of them
bigger location in Silang, from the arrival of Sonnys when we were poor, but right in their backyard! (I
Asiongs current incarnation Chinese grandfather in the my lola and my mom would love the) freshness of the
is as a country homelaid- Philippines to the restaurant always say, we dont have produce, from the coastal
back and serene, a welcome as it is today. Memories are much but we always made townsmussels, clams,
break from the stress of the important to Sonny, and he the food special. That is a oysters, and the other
busy citynow run by Sonny takes great pains to make distinctly Caviteo way of shellsh that you dont see
Lua, youngest son of the sure that guests leave the thinking, Sonny explains. in the market today, Giboy
founder Asiong. Here, Sonny restaurant with nothing but Take his Pan de Troso, says. With the new Asiong,
teamed up with fellow Cavite good ones, plus a doggie bag local loaves from Salinas in Sonny promises, We are
culinary royalty, Giboy or two. He says, We dont Rosario, Cavite. (In the old going to present Cavite food
Sarayba, whose grandmother want to have any pretensions days), there was this hole-in- then and now.

98 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


The Domaine
Driving into The Domaine is
an experience. Its driveway
is overrun with greenery,
leading to a grand house
aglow with a calming yellow
light. The inside is spacious,
its minimalist interiors
inviting guests to concentrate
on the food, and on the
company.
The Domaine specializes
in bespoke French and
European-inspired food
think seared scallops ACCESSIBLE FINE DINING (Clockwise from top left) Just the right balance
of crisp and tart, Cucamelon and Pickled Papaya Canaps; Chef Robbies
la nioise and salted egg VDOWHG HJJ YHUVLRQ RI KLV DOUHDG\ EHU ULFK FDUERQDUD ZLWK WUXIH RLO UHFLSH
carbonara with trufe RQ SDJH   IUHVKO\ EDNHG PDGHOHLQHV DQG WKHLU DYRUV IRU WKH VHDVRQ
oilusing mostly organic KRXVHPDGH LFH FUHDP LQ WKUHH DYRUV *LQJHUEUHDG 5RVH DQG 6DOWHG
Caramel; owner and chef Robbie Ripalda is happy to have found his domaine
produce and ingredients
grown nearby. Thats
my homework every day: magnicent. For cream to madeleines, Chef
to search for products that catalyst for his farm-to-table instance, the true star Robbie says. Incidentally, his
are proudly Filipino, which sensibilities. French cooking of his Grilled Lamb Cutlet in madeleines are absolutely
come from the (Tagaytay isnt all about (catering Orange Sauce is the thrice- gorgeous, plump and
and Silang) area as much as to) elite (tastes). You cook cooked kamote fries that are delicately avored, with
possible, says chef-owner where you are. They love boiled, fried then deep-fried. avors created according
Robbie Ripalda. One such to maximize every bit of The chef also channeled to the season. This season,
example is his welcome everything, he says. When his love for oranges into a its Earl Grey, Four Berries,
canap of the moment: I was in France, there was delicious, citrusy glaze which Jasmine and Dried Mango.
beautifully textured tartlets this chef I worked with complements the meat. Right now, Chef
of cucamelon and pickled who goes, Wherever you His use of locally Robbie is busy expanding
papaya. Chef Robbie are, theres this uniqueness sourced ingredients, like The Domaines offerings
himself didnt know that the about where you are. I roses, shines through in to include weddings and
cucamelon was edible until didnt understand it at that his desserts. Since a lot of other events. The Domaine
he stumbled across some time, but I nally realized people have rose businesses recently launched its own
workers on his property that when I returned to the here, we decided to use app on iOS and Android,
snacking on it! Philippines. their owers so we made a making planning a festive
This Le Cordon Bleu- Like all good chefs, fresh syrup out of them. Ive celebration or an intimate
trained chef cites his he likes turning humble done so many things out night out as easy as a few taps
experience in France as the ingredients into something of it, from macarons to ice on ones phone.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 99


FOOD TOUR

REAL FARM-TO-TABLE DINING (Clockwise


from top left) Crunchy, savory, addictive
Mushroom Chicharon, made with oyster
mushrooms grown on the premises;
green chili peppers, also called Devils
Peppers because theyre so hot; the
covered indoor garden of Le Dons; Sir
Celedonio, or Le Don, Jennis father, helps
by harvesting cherry tomatoes from their
outdoor garden; their best-selling Fried
Bangus with Pepper Sauce, (recipe on
page 123) made for Le Dons Garden by
Le Dons Garden chef-consultant Norberto Famadico

Part of our advocacy is to as well as an al fresco patio, home, no frills, Pinoy one of their top sellers.
help connect people to the both adorned with Donalds, cooking, a cross between Guests love the concept
food that they eat. We dont Jennis husbands beautiful art fancy and comfort food, the of harvesting their own
really know what were eating. and folksy paintings. kind of restaurant that has mushrooms and having us
Is it safe? Will it make us The Asuncion family captured panlasang Pinoy cook it for them, Jenni says.
healthy?, asks Jenni Asuncin started growing organic to a tee. Im not saying we We also love the Bangus
Foronda, daughter of Celedoo vegetables in early 2014 are 100% organic, however, with Black Pepper Sauce,
Asuncion, after whom Le when Jennis mother was a majority of our dishes crispy fried milksh liberally
Dons Garden is named. diagnosed with a terminal are made with herbs and doused with thick, deeply
Its quietly unassuming illness. Their rst yield was vegetables from our organic avored gravy. If you order
here, with rows of covered harvested two weeks after garden, Jenni assures. only one thing from Le Dons
garden plots within that her mother passed away. Examples are the Chicken Garden, let it be this.
lead to an outdoor garden Some guests harvested their with Tarragon Soup and In just a few years, Le
lled with planted lettuce, own vegetables, and we Homemade Fettuccini with Dons Garden has become an
tarragon, mint, edible prepared some food for them, kangkong and spinach. example of the benets that
owers, siling labuyo and since my sister-in-law loves Although theyve only organic farming and living a
cherry tomatoes. Lately, the to cook, Jenni says. Later, been growing mushrooms life of wellness can bring. In
owners have been cultivating they suggested that we put for a few months now, the Silang, Jenni and her family
mushrooms as well. The caf up a caf. Mushroom Chicharon has are honored and excited to be
has an indoor dining area The cuisine is down already made its mark as leading the way.

100 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


WORTH THE DRIVE (From
left) One of Verbanas
specialties, Arroz Loco,
a deliciously different
take on paella, made
with heirloom Tinawon
rice; enjoy the view of
Tagaytay ridge while
you dine at Verbena.

Verbena Ambida is equally proud of Verbenas


Verbena in Discovery Country Suites all-day dining menu, especially the
has been a go-to restaurant in the Arroz Loco, made with heirloom
Silang-Tagaytay area for over a decade.
Sitting by the Tagaytay ridge near the
Tinawon rice, tiger prawns, Manila
clams, herb baked oysters, Vigan
STAYING THE
Silang border, the restaurant embodies longganiza, chicken thighs, crispy pork NIGHT IN
the areas farm-to-table ethic, sourcing belly, quail eggs, green olives, shaved TAGAYTAY
produce from nearby organic farms and queso de bola, chicken fat croutons Discovery Country Suites is one of
social enterprises, like heirloom rice and chicharon bits. Flavored with Tagaytays iconic bed and breakfasts
from the Mountain Province. turmeric, piquillo peppers, green destinations. The property opens
Verbena is well known for its olives, capers, and fresh herbs, this onto a spacious receiving area,
sumptuous breakfast buffet of fresh rich dish is a deliciously refreshing which leads to Verbena, the in-house
fruits, aky croissants and warm bread take on paella. restaurant with a gorgeous view
rolls made in-house. Included in the Our guests keep coming back of Taal Lake. Each of the B&Bs
buffet is a plated entre of ones choice because we offer a lot of food that you spacious rooms is a beautifully
from the menu, such as the signature cant nd anywhere else, Chef Celmar furnished suite where guests are
Smoked Tinapa Omelet or the Country says, adding that regulars can look welcomed with cheese and wine,
Benedict using shaved honey ham forward to the Christmas season, when and gifted with a bouquet of owers,
with fresh shiitake mushrooms and there will be even more choices on offer. and a pillowcase embroidered with
wilted organic arugula, smothered in Its Verbenas willingness to showcase their name. Discovery Country
hollandaise sauce. The tinapa, ham, local produce, coupled with its Suites also prides itself on its
arugula, mushrooms and eggs are all dedication to innovation and customer excellent service, with every guest
sourced nearby. service, that keeps it top-of-mind in the made to feel completely at home.
Executive Sous Chef Celmar Tagaytay dining scene.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 101


FOOD TOUR

DIRECTORY
A LING PIN AS FU DH AUZ
Brgy. Paligawan, Silang,
Cavite, (0910) 221-7331,
(0905) 456-3804

A SIONG
4455 Buenavista Avenue,
Silang, Cavite, (0926) 713-
9400; Facebook:
AsiongSilangCavite

ECHOFA RMS
Barangay Banaybanay,
Amadeo, Cavite; Facebook:
ECHOfarms
THE LEGACY OF ALING PINA (From
left) This stick-to-your-ribs lomi
ECHOM A RKE T
with kikiam and squid balls is the
NDC Building, 116
reward that long distance bikers
Tordesillas Street, Salcedo
look forward to; Melanie Canlas,
Village, Makati City
Aling Pinas daughter, took over for
Serendra, McKinley Parkway
her mother after she passed away
across Market! Market!,
Bonifacio Global City,
(02) 869-1516, (02) 901-
3485, echostore@echostore.

One for the Road: Aling Pinas Fudhauz ph; Facebook: ECHOstore

LE DONS G ARDEN
Asuncion Subdivision, Purok
Long distance motor and food business in the area a meal be waiting for them. 3 Emilio Aguinaldo Highway,
mountain bikers who pass seven years before that. More than just a rest Biga, Silang, Cavite,
(046) 414-3235, (0916) 556-
by Silang are familiar with Some bikers arrived on stop, Fudhauz is a small 1409, jenni.ledon@gmail.
Aling Pinas Fudhauz. Its a the rst day their sari-sari community whose members com; Facebook:
well-known rest stop on the store opened. Aling Pinas have become like family LeDonsGarden
bike trail, and is famous for daughter Melanie Canlas to each other. Regulars are M A LIPAYO N FA RMS
its lomi, sometimes selling recalls, They stopped for known by name, their usual Paligawan Road, Paligawan,
as much as ve kilos of the food, then said to make more orders committed to memory. Sitio Bulwagan, Silang,
Cavite, (0917) 256-1066,
stick-to-your-ribs noodle next weekend because theyd The bikers, in turn, have malipayonfarms@gmail.
soup per weekend. bring their friends, and they always been on hand to help com; Facebook: Malipayon
Farms
Theirs is a Manila-type did. The bikers kept coming, and support their nanay and
lomi thats as much street with more and more of their her family. When Aling Pina THE DOMAINE
food as it is nourishing soup. friends in tow. The sari-sari fell ill, they donated funds 3830 Barangay Malabag,
Malabag, Silang, Cavite,
The lomi is thick and hearty, store grew into a tiny shed and held a fundraiser to help (0999) 883-2705, thedo-
the savoriness of the soup of a restaurant, which has with her medical expenses, maine.restaurant@gmail.
cut through by the inherent now become a respectably but she succumbed to kidney com, thedomainerestaurant.
com; The Domaine App on
umami sweetness of the sized canteen. It continues failure before a donor for a iOS and Android
kikiam and squid balls. The to attract bikers as well as transplant could be found.
V E RBEN A
noodles fall in between celebrities like John Lloyd Theyve helped us a lot, Discovery Country Suites,
chewy and soft. Its a warm, Cruz and Richard Gomez. Melanie says, wiping away 300 Calamba Road, San Jose,
comforting treat, especially The regulars have become the tears that have sprung to Tagaytay City, (046) 413-
4567, (02) 529-8172,
after a few hours on the road. such a part of the Fudhauz her eyes at the memory of discoverysuites.com;
Aling Pinas Fudhauz family that sometimes, when her mother, and of the kind Facebook:
started 18 years ago, though theyre on midnight rides, souls who have been there RestaurantVerbena
the family had been in the theyll text ahead and ask that along the way.

102 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


Dalahican Soup \RON DQG VWLU XQWLO HPXOVLHG
Recipe by Giboy Sarayba of Stir in grated cheese.
Asiong 5. In a large stock pot, bring
Serves 2 water to a boil. Add salt. Cook
linguini according to package
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon instructions until al dente.
garlic, sliced While hot, toss immediately
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon with the sauce.
white onion, sliced 6. Garnish with chopped
olive oil, for sauting parsley. Drizzle with 1
160 grams crushed tomatoes WDEOHVSRRQ RI WUXIH RU ROLYH
3/4 cup shrimp, shelled and oil, and top with freshly Fried Bangus with Queso de Bola
deveined with tails intact cracked black pepper. Serve Pepper Sauce Cheesecake
1 cup Manila clams immediately. Recipe by Norberto Famadico for Recipe by Tess Lopez of Verbena
1 cup squid, cleaned and sliced Le Dons Garden Serves 12
 JUDPV VK OOHW SUHIHUDEO\ CHEFS NOTE Pasta cooking Serves 4
tanigue, cut into bite-size liquid refers to the starchy water CRUST :
pieces in which the pasta is cooked. vegetable oil, for frying 1/2 cup butter, softened
salt and pepper, to taste Reserve 1/2 cup of this liquid to 3/4 kilo boneless bangus 1/4 cup sugar
fresh basil, chopped, for garnish help bind the dish together. kosher salt and ground black 1 whole egg
pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Saut garlic and onion in Backyard Barbecue DOOSXUSRVH RXU IRU GUHGJLQJ 1 cup + 2 tablespoons
olive oil until fragrant. Baby Back Pork Ribs DOOSXUSRVH RXU
2. Add crushed tomatoes and Recipe by Celmar Ambida of PEPPER SAUCE : 1 pinch salt
cook for 5 minutes. Verbena 1 tablespoon olive oil
3. Add prepared shrimp, clams, Serves 8 1 tablespoon butter FILLING :
VTXLG DQG VOLFHG VK OOHW /HW 2 1/2 tablespoons 450 grams cream cheese
simmer for 5 minutes. Season 4 kilos baby back pork ribs chopped white onion  WDEOHVSRRQV DOOSXUSRVHRXU
with salt and pepper. 1/2 kilo onions, sliced 2 1/2 tablespoons diced red 3 whole eggs
4. Top with chopped basil 1/4 kilo carrots, sliced and green bell peppers 1 egg yolk
before serving. 1/4 kilo celery, sliced 1 teaspoon whole 1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup rock salt or cracked peppercorns 1/4 cup sour cream
Salted Egg Carbonara 1/4 cup beef stock 1 tablespoon rum 3/4 cup dulce de leche
Recipe by Robbie Ripalda of 1 tablespoon black peppercorns 1 cup brown sauce 125 grams queso
The Domaine 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon lime or de bola, grated
Serves 4 1 tablespoon dried thyme calamansi juice
1 tablespoon heavy cream TOPPING :
3 tablespoons bacon, 1. Place the baby back pork or all-purpose cream 1/2 cup dulce de leche
QHO\ FKRSSHG ULEV LQ D SDQ SDUWLDOO\ OOHG
1 tablespoon olive oil, divided with water. Add the remaining 1. Preheat the oil in a deep pot 1. Preheat oven to 350F. Line
2 tablespoons butter ingredients. or deep fryer. The temperature with foil the bottom of an
1 teaspoon garlic, 2. Cover the pan. Braise the of the oil should be between 8-inch cake pan with removable
QHO\ FKRSSHG pork in a 350F oven for 2 hours 350F to 375F. bottom.
salt and pepper, to taste until meat becomes tender. 2. Season bangus with kosher 2. Cream butter and sugar. Add
1/3 cup all-purpose cream 3. Drain the pork ribs. Brush salt and ground pepper. Dredge egg. Then add vanilla and mix
1/2 cup pasta cooking liquid with the table mop sauce LQ DOOSXUSRVH RXU EHIRUH well.
3 tablespoons crumbled salted (recipe below) and return to the frying. 3. $GG DOOSXUSRVH RXU DQG
egg yolk oven to bake for another hour. 3. Fry bangus in hot oil until salt.
1 egg yolk cooked. Place on a plate lined 4. Press crust into the pan and
 WDEOHVSRRQV QHO\ JUDWHG TABLE MOP SAUCE : with paper towels to absorb chill for 30 minutes until set.
Scamorza or Parmigiano 1 white onion, sliced excess oil. Set aside. Bake for 20 minutes or until
Reggiano cheese 1 tablespoon olive oil 4. To make the pepper sauce, crust is golden brown. Cool.
200 grams linguini 3 cups tomato ketchup preheat a pan over low-medium 5. )RU WKH OOLQJ FRPELQH FUHDP
1 teaspoon parsley, 2/3 tablespoon chopped garlic heat. Add olive oil and butter. FKHHVH DQG DOOSXUSRVH RXU
QHO\ FKRSSHG 1/2 cup orange juice 5. Saut onion, then add red Mix until smooth.
 WDEOHVSRRQ WUXIH RLO 1 tablespoon and green bell peppers, black 6. Add eggs, egg yolk, heavy
or extra virgin olive oil, Worcestershire sauce peppercorns and rum. cream and sour cream. Continue
for drizzling 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce 6. Add brown stock, lime juice to mix.
1/4 tablespoon liquid smoke and heavy cream. Simmer until 7. Mix in dulce de leche and
1. Saut bacon with 1 1/2 tablespoon chili powder the sauce thickens. queso de bola and pour over
tablespoon of the oil with 13 tablespoons molasses 7. To serve, pour pepper sauce crust in the prepared pan.
butter until golden brown and on top of the fried boneless 8. In a 350F oven, bake in
crispy. Set aside. Saut onion in olive oil. Add the bangus. a bain-marie for 1 hour 15
2. Add garlic, salt and pepper. rest of the ingredients. Reduce minutes or until done.
Cook for 1 minute over low for 15 to 30 minutes until CHEFS NOTE To make the 9. Let cool then spread dulce de
heat. consistency is thick. Set aside. brown sauce, melt butter in a pan leche on top.
3. Add cream, pasta cooking RYHU ORZ KHDW :KLVN LQ RXU DQG
liquid and salted egg yolk. stir until brown. Add beef stock,
Simmer for another minute. and stir until smooth and slightly
4. Turn off heat then add egg thick.

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 103


EVENTS

PHILIPPINE HARVEST AT CENTRAL SQUARE


Philippine Harvest is a series of
weekend fairs that highlight the
farmers, processors and retailers
of premium organic, natural and
indigenous products. A partnership
between the Department of
Agriculture and SSI Group, Inc.,
this initiative celebrates and
promotes the richness of Philippine
agriculture. Last Augusts fair
highlighted local wines and liqueurs,
like DeMetrios dessert wines in
avors like coffee, mangosteen,
local blueberry; South Tropics
fruit wines in durian, guyabano,
pineapple; Dielles honey fruit wine
and raw honey products; Pedro
craft beers; Don Papa Rum; spirits
from Destileria Limtuaco; among
many other products. Also for sale (Clockwise from top
left) Milea Bee Farm
were organic rice, cacao, coconut honey products;
sugar, cheese, fruits and vegetables, Destileria Limtuaco
spirits using local fruits;
and much more. For future fairs, DeMetrios coffee,
follow centralsquareph on Facebook mangosteen and
and Instagram blueberry dessert wines

More Milkier Pigs


& Violet Gold
At the Grand Ballroom of Marriott Manila Hotel, author Bryan
Koh launched his second book, Milkier Pigs & Violet Gold, a
thick tome on regional food in the Philippines. I fell in love with
Filipino food because of the inuence of my Filipina nannies,
says Koh, who was born and raised in Singapore. He traveled
throughout the Philippines from Pagudpud to Zamboanga
in search of heirloom recipes and the accompanying stories
behind them to get a fuller understanding of our cuisine. Kohs
sequel contains even more recipes and stories from his travels
to Batanes, Cavite, South Cotabato and Samar. Both books are
available at The Kitchen Bookstore, www.thekitchenbookstore.com

An Afternoon of
Cebuano Cooking
Cebu is shaped like a sweet potato, says Louella
Alix, author of Hikay: The Culinary Heritage of Cebu,
and our cuisine is based on three basic cooking
techniques, namely su-tu-kil. Su is from sugba,
the Cebuano word for to grill; tu, from tugwa, to
cook in liquid; kil from kilaw, to cook in vinegar.
Held at the QCX Museum at the QC Memorial
Circle, it was a fruitful afternoon spent talking about
Cebuano food, its origins and how it has developed
over the years. Hikay: The Culinary Heritage of
Cebu is available at The Kitchen Bookstore, www.
thekitchenbookstore.com

104 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


THE FLAVORS OF NEGROS IN GLORIETTA
Even after 31 years, the annual Negros Trade Fair
never fails to draw big crowds at the Glorietta Activity
Center. To launch this years fair, some of the countrys
top chefs presented special Negros-inspired cocktail
dishes using Ark of Taste ingredients. Bacolod native JP
Anglos chicken poached in binakol broth with grated
coconut and peanuts was the hit of the evening. Fellow
Negrense Fernando Aracama made his own version of
KBL using organic black pork with a kadyos-mais salad
and puto manapla. Chef Josh Boutwood reinvented
inasal using charcoal cassava and sinamak gel. Chef
Mikel Zaguirre did a avorful dry batchoy, instant
ramen style. The four-day fair itself offered more
traditional Negrense delicacies from Negros-based
vendors like Aidas, Casa Carmela, Fresh Start, El Ideal,
Felicias, Margies, Victorias and Virgies Homemade.
Manila-based vendors like Cibo di M, Sarsa and Fog
City Creamery also offered Negros-inspired dishes
and products. www.anp-philippines.com, Facebook: (Clockwise from left) Chef JP Anglo prepping his chicken binakol; Chef Mikel Zaguirres
Negros Trade Fair instant batchoy; reinvented KBL by Chef Fernando Aracama

Best New Finds at Best Food Forward


Back for its 6th year, the seasons most anticipated
food bazaar opened in its new home in SMX
Convention Center, SM Aura. With a mix of
old favorites and new nds, Best Food Forward
showcased sweet and savory treats that just had to
be sampled: Big Dogs Kitchens lox cream cheese
and bacon whisky jam, spicy taba ng talangka
and gourmet laing by Native Gourmet, avored
camote and potato chips by THC, US Angus
roast beef from Olympias Gourmet, Ziazans
Mediterranean spreads, Vietnamese bnh m by
Lotus Vu, Saffron Plates biryani and samosas,
Nutella babkas by Heart Bake, unusual fruit-
liquor jams by Jam Cocktails, and durian granola (From left) Pedro craft beer with the delicious pork bun by
Kitchen of Super Janice; Native Gourmet sauces and condiments
by Wits, among many delightful discoveries.

Global Eats at Focus Global


Metro Society magazine teamed up with Focus
Global at Twenty-Four Seven McKinley for Global
Gourmet, an event that put the spotlight on premium
high-end kitchen equipment like Sub Zero and Wolf
refrigerators and ovens, and other drool-worthy
items for ones ultimate dream house. Using Focus
Globals impressive kitchen showcase, their in-house
chefs prepared a grand feast that featured impressive
cheese and charcuterie platters, and fantastic dishes
like healthy and delicious Mediterranean Orzo Salad,
subtly spiced Creole Seafood Rice, and luxurious
Trufed Mushroom Pasta. For those looking to
build their dream kitchen, going to the Focus Global
showroom is an absolute must. 15/F Twenty-Four
Seven McKinley Building, 24th Street corner 7th
Avenue, McKinley Parkway, (02) 705-9999, www.
focusglobalinc.com
(Clockwise from top left) ber chocolatey Sachertorte; an impressive cheese
spread for the Global Gourmet event; owner and founder of Focus Global,
Stephen Sy; deliciously spiced Creole Seafood Rice

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 105


EVENTS

OKTOBERFEST! A BAVARIAN
FEAST Oktoberfest
DW 6RWHO LV
always all about
The oldest Oktoberfest in town. The German Club and
wurst (German
Sotel Philippine Plaza celebrated the 77th Oktoberfest at sausages), potato
Sotels The Harbor Garden Tent in the biggest and most dumplings, red
cabbage salad,
authentic beer festival in the country, complete with an pork schnitzel
endless stretch of sumptuous Bavarian foodpork knuckles, and pretzels, ham,
roast calf, grilled German sausages, pastries and towers of an assortment of
cheeses and free-
ice-cold San Miguel beer. The evening was made merrier by a RZLQJEHHU
series of live music and beer drinking contests, complete with
participants in Bavarian national costumes. Prost! www.
sotelmanila.com
Ozapfts! is Oktoberfest at Escolta. For the rst time in
12 years, The Peninsula Manila celebrated Oktoberfest with
a week-long buffet dinner of traditional Bavarian favorites
like Pork Schnitzel, Sauerbraten (beef pot roast), Bratwurst,
Kohlrouladen (cabbage stuffed with veal) and Spanferkel
(Bavarian roast pig), among many other dishes, with free-
owing Paulaner beer. www.peninsula.com
Beer season at Hyatt. Fairly new to Oktoberfest is Hyatt
City of Dreams, only in its second year, where The Caf was transformed into a blue-and-white
themed beer haus complete with free owing beer from Bavarian state brewery Weihenstephan,
the worlds oldest brewery. German executive chef Michael Luedtke showcased his food
including homemade liverwurst and pretzels. www.cityofdreamsmanila.hyatt.com

SOFITELS MONTH-LONG
The Best of Canadian Beef at CELEBRATION OF WINE
New World Makati Hotel Sotel Wine Days is an annual series of events celebrating the
New World Makati Hotel, in partnership with Canada wine harvest season in France. This year, Sotel Philippine
Beef International Institute and with the support of Plaza Manila kicked off with the Black and Gold Nicolas
the Canadian Embassy, recently held a month-long Feuillatte Wine Dinner, a ve-course dinner that showcased
Canadian Beef Advantage promotion. Recognized as Nicola Feuillatte champagnes accompanied by a fashion
some of the best beef in the world, Canadian beef is show by Albert Andrade and his Palme dOr collection. The
well-marbled, avorful and rich in nutrients, thanks to month-long series included wine appreciation classes at Spiral
Canadas natural landscape and sustainable ranching headed by a wine specialist, a Wine and Tapas Night featuring
techniques. Executive Chef Robert Davis took full Gonzlez Byass wines paired with traditional Spanish wines,
advantage by enhancing Caf 1228s buffet spread the Sotel Full Moon Party,
with specialties like Whole House Cured Corned and Le Tour de France
Beef and aged barley-fed Angus Beef with roasted du Vin which featured 60
vegetables, baked potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. wines from the prestigious
At Jasmine Restaurant, Executive Chef Wong Kam wine making regions of
offered items like Wok-fried Beef Tenderloin and France, including Bordeaux,
Coriander Tips, and Black Pepper Beef Tenderloin on Burgundy, the Loire
Rice. Esperanza Street corner Makati Avenue, Ayala Valley and others. www.
Center, Makati City, (02) 811-6888, newworldhotels. sotelmanila.com
com/manila. To learn more about Canadian beef,
visit CanadaBeef.ca and follow ILoveCanadianBeef on
Facebook

106 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4


An Evening with Gilda
What could be more perfect on a rainy Sunday evening than
to be jamming over dinner with the iconic artist-writer Gilda
Cordero Fernando? We did just that at an intimate dinner
held at Gourmet Gypsy Art Caf, where chef-owner Waya The core group of PCHM; a
beautiful ube cake by MCB
Wijangco and Chef Tatung Sarthou created a ve-course Cakes & Pastries
dinner called This is NOT your Lolas Cooking, inspired by
recipes and notes jotted down in one of Gildas old kitchen
journals. Tattered and marked with grease, the journal is full
For the glory of
of treasured notes, from listings of Gildas dinner guests (and Philippine cuisine
what she served them), to her commentary on family recipes. One of the countrys staunchest
The two chefs had their own riffs on Gildas treasured advocates of Philippine food, the
recipes. Tatungs Dinuguan Flan, for example, was dinuguan Philippine Culinary Heritage
jello in a shot glass served with crackly deep-fried chicken Movement (PCHM) celebrated its
skin and chicken inasal. Wayas Blue Marlin Nioise was rst year anniversary at Kabisera
cooked sous vide, so delicate and fresh it tasted of the sea. last September. This non-prot
Gilda claims she is no cook; what she wanted was to simply organization is dedicated to the
write about food. She also said the secret of the success of her promotion and preservation of
60-year marriage was the simple fact that she never cooked. Philippine cuisine, honoring locally
Gourmet Gypsy Art Caf, 25 Don A. Roces Avenue, Quezon made Filipino food products and Philippine produce through
City, (02) 662-0880 its many advocacies. 2016 has been a fruitful year for PCHM,
the culmination of which will be the Ang Sarap! Philippine
Food Festival in Cavite in December. Friends in the food
THE PENINSULA industry, farmers, professors, restaurateurs, journalists and
media personalities came together that night, enthused over
MANILA TURNS 40! Kabisera Executive Chef Tim Abejuelas sumptuous menu,
the highlights of which included liempo chips, adobo back
It was the grandest party of the year at The Peninsula ribs, pugon lechon baboy, and a glorious two-tiered ube cake
Manilas 40th anniversary gala. The hotels iconic lobby, by MCB Cakes & Pastries. Facebook: Philippine Culinary
as well as its outletsEscolta, Old Manila, Salon de Ning, Heritage Movement
Spicesoverowed with champagne, lobster, foie gras, caviar,
chocolate and so much more, enjoyed by guests in their black
ties and long gowns. Hon. Sir Michael Kadoorie, chairman
of The Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, Ltd. (owner of The Bosch to the Future
Peninsula brand) ew in for the festivities, sharing that The
Peninsula Manila was only the second property to bear The If youre planning to redesign your kitchen, then your
Peninsula name after the agship in Hong Kong. Broadway timing is just perfect. Bosch, the premier kitchen
star Lea Salonga surprised guests with a mini-concert, after appliance brand, just launched its agship showroom
which guests stayed on to dance the night away. Ayala last October in Greenbelt 5, Makati, signaling the
Avenue corner Makati Avenue, Makati City, (02) 887-2888, entry of cutting-edge technology and timeless kitchen
manila.peninsula.com design into Filipino homes everywhere. Singaporean
Chef Joseph Yao of bistro-cum-retail store SPRMRKT
gave a live demo using select Bosch products, followed
by a lavish French patisserie buffet spread for guests.
Featured were its new line of cookware with intuitive
control wheel and TFT-touch display, something for
cooks to salivate over. Bosch Home Appliances, 3/L
Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati City

FOOD |2016 Issue 4 107


Nigella in Manila
In her own words, the domestic goddess talks home
cooking and her newfound obsession with adobo

W
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA

ho doesnt know the ingredients


British celebrity and letting the TIPS BY NIGELL A
cook, author ingredients speak When cooking
and TV host for themselves. spaghetti or penne
Nigella Lawson? A simple bowl and youre putting say,
Since the publication of her of spaghetti with napoletana sauce on
best-selling book How to tomato sauce is it, what all Italians do
Be a Domestic Goddess and the ultimate quick is take a little cup of
her phenomenally popular and easy supper, pasta water out before
TV cooking show Nigella and I dont believe they drain it, and then
Bites, she has become there is a person add it to the sauce to
one of only a handful of in the world help it amalgamate.
culinary personalities with who would not
a truly global following. be thrilled to be You want (canned)
She recently ew to Manila given this, and I tomatoes that are
as the brand ambassador am always happy YHU\ LQWHQVH LQ DYRU
of Contadina, a premium making it! very meaty, and have
brand of Mediterranean exactly the right
cuisine essentials, to share On tasting balance between
her thoughts on food and Filipino sweetness and acidity.
cooking and to inspire her Cuisine
many fans in the Philippines: I didnt know You can make a very
very much about simple salsa, the sort
On being a home cook Filipino food you dip chips in. Just
When youre cooking, it before coming to open a can of stewed
shouldnt be about surprising the Philippines, tomatoes, put it in a
people. It should be about but once I knew bowl, add some olive
how I can give pleasure with I was coming, I oil, chop up a chili, add
my food, how can I enjoy read a great deal a bit more garlic, and it
myself in the kitchen. about it, and tastes as if youve been
We who cook at home became obsessed LQ WKH NLWFKHQIRUYH
can be spontaneous and with adobo! I was hours!
creative, and change up how lucky enough to
we cook, adding different try many home- For an instant
spices, different herbs and cooked Filipino supper, you take the
different avors every time dishessisig, crushed tomatoes
we make a certain dish. menudo, sinigang, and you take a teeny
There is nothing better than puto and pancit. amount of water. You
seeing what we have in the And I also tried put rice in it and you
fridge or the pantry, and some lechon pata. I bring it to boil and you
just improvising from there. love sourness, and get instant soup!
That, to me, is the magic of sourness is a big Nigella Lawson during the
The Contadina line
Contadina launch at Enderun
cooking. factor of what Ive enjoyed Colleges where she presided over a consists of olive oils from
about Filipino food. I also friendly cooking competition among Spain, canned tomatoes
using California tomatoes,
On the simplicity of am inspired to try my own top local chefs and journalists
pasta sauces produced by
Italian food versions of these wonderful an Italian family-owned
company, and pasta using
I learned to cook (from an dishes in my kitchen at home. its about having a voice 100% durum semolina
Italian nonna) the Italian thats true to oneself. I was wheat from Canada.
way. What was revolutionary On writing and cooking interested in seeing how I Produced by Del Monte
Philippines, Contadina
for me is they didnt go for Ive always thought that could use language which is, products are available
these fancy tricks. It was writing and cooking are in a way, abstract to convey in leading supermarkets
about simplicity based on analogous, like eating a language of food which is nationwide.
having utter respect for and reading are. I do feel absolutely of the senses.

108 FOOD | 2016 Issue 4

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