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TR AN S PO R T
Prague sits right at the heart of Europe, and
is well served by air, road and rail routes. The THINGS CHANGE...
city itself has an excellent integrated public
transport system with frequent tram, metro The information in this chapter is particularly vulner-
and bus services, though the historic central able to change. Check directly with the airline or a
neighbourhoods are small enough to cover travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare
easily on foot. (and ticket you may buy) works and be aware of the
security requirements for international travel. Shop
carefully. The details given in this chapter should be
AIR
TRANSPORT AIR
regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your
own careful, up-to-date research.
Airport
Prague-Ruzyn Airport (Letit Praha-Ruzyn; off Map pp589;
flight information %220 113 314; www.csl.cz), 17km west ATMs, accommodation and car-hire agencies,
of the city centre, is the hub for the national car- public-transport information desks, taxi serv-
rier Czech Airlines (SA; Map p106; %239 007 007; www.csa ices and 24-hour left-luggage counters (per piece per
.cz; V Celnici 5, Nov Msto), which operates direct day 100K). The departure halls have restaurants
flights to Prague from many European cities, and bars, information offices, airline offices,
including London, Dublin, Paris, Rome and an exchange counter and travel agencies. Once
Amsterdam, and also from New York and youre through security, there are shops, restau-
Toronto. rants, bars, internet access and wi-fi.
Pragues airport has two international ter- Theres a post office (h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm
minals. Terminal 1 is for flights to/from non- Sat) in the administrative centre on the far side
Schengen countries (including the UK, of the Europort Shopping Centre opposite the
Ireland and countries outside Europe), and arrival hall of Terminal 1.
Terminal 2 is for flights to/from Schengen
Zone countries (most EU nations plus Swit-
zerland, Iceland and Norway). BICYCLE
In both terminals the arrival and departure Prague is not the best city for getting around
halls are next to each other on the same level. by bike. Traffic is heavy, tram tracks can
The arrival halls have exchange counters, be dangerous and there are lots of hills and
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Airport Cars (%14014, 222 333 222) operate a 24-hour taxi service, charging around 550 to 600K to get to
the centre of Prague. Drivers usually speak some English and accept Visa credit cards.
cobbled streets. That said, the popularity of You can find local and regional bus time-
cycling is steadily increasing and the city table info in English at www.vlak-bus.cz and
now has about 260km of signposted cycle %900 144 444. On these services you buy
routes. your ticket from the driver as you board. For
Bikes must be equipped with a bell, mud- details of city bus services see Public Trans-
guards, a white reflector and white light up port, opposite.
front, a red reflector and flashing red light at
the rear, and reflectors on pedals if not, you
can be fined up to 1000K. Cyclists up to the CAR & MOTORCYCLE
age of 15 must wear helmets. Driving in Prague is no fun, especially in the
If youre at least 12 years old you can take narrow, winding streets of the city centre.
your bicycle on the metro, but you must place Trying to find your way around or to park
it near the last door of the rear carriage, and legally while coping with trams, buses, other
only two bikes are allowed per train. Bikes are drivers, cyclists and pedestrians can make you
not permitted if the carriage is full, or if theres wish youd left the car at home.
already a pram in the carriage. Prague Information Service (see p255) pub-
For more information on cycling and bike lishes a Transport Guide with many useful tips
hire, see p206. for drivers, including emergency breakdown
services, where to find car-repair shops (by
make) and all-important parking tips.
BOAT
See p251 for details of river transport between
Prague city centre and Troja (for Prague Zoo Driving
and Troja Chateau; see p140). Traffic in the Czech Republic drives on the
right. In Prague you may overtake a tram only
on the right, and only if its in motion. You
BUS must stop behind any tram taking on or let-
Prague has two main bus stations. All inter- ting off passengers where theres no passenger
national and long-distance domestic buses island. A tram has the right of way when mak-
(and many regional services) use Florenc bus ing any signalled turn across your path.
station (AN Praha Florenc; Map pp1267; Kikova 4, In case of an accident the police should be
Karln), while regional buses to the northeastern contacted immediately if repairs are likely to
Czech Republic (including Mlnk, see p233) cost over 20,000K or if there is an injury.
depart from Holeovice bus station (AN Praha Holeovice; Even if damage is slight, its a good idea to
Map pp1323; Vrbenskho, Holeovice). report the accident as the police will issue an
International bus operators include Touring insurance report that will help avoid problems
Bohemia/Eurolines (%224 218 680; www.bei.cz) and when you take the car out of the country or
Student Agency (%800 100 300; www.studentagency.cz); return it to the rental company.
both have offices at Florenc bus station. For emergency breakdowns, the AMK (Cen-
tral Automobile & Motorcycle Club; Map pp589; %261
242
104 333; www.uamk.cz; Na Stri 9, Nusle) provides dents only; visitors can park in orange zones
lonelyplanet.com
nationwide assistance 24 hours a day (40K per hour, maximum stay two hours) or
call %1230 for breakdown assistance (or green zones (30K per hour, up to six hours).
%+420 21230 if calling from a non-Czech You pay at a parking meter, effective 8am
mobile phone). AMK has agreements with to 6pm weekdays (they accept both Czech
national motoring organisations across the crowns and euros). Traffic inspectors are al-
world through its affiliations with the Al- ways keen to hand out fines, clamp wheels or
liance Internationale de Tourisme and the tow away vehicles. Parking in one-way streets
Fdration Internationale de lAutomobile. is normally allowed only on the right-hand
If you are a member of any of these, AMK side.
will help you on roughly the same terms as There are several car parks at the edges
your own organisation would. If not, you of Star Msto, as well as Park-and-Ride car
must pay for all services. parks around the outer city (most are marked
on city maps), close to metro stations.
lonelyplanet.com
YOURE GOING WHERE?
Although most staff at the international ticket counters in Pragues main train station speak at least some English, those
selling domestic tickets rarely do. In order to speed up the process of buying a ticket, and to avoid misunderstandings,
its often easier to write down what you want on a piece of paper and hand it to the clerk (this works for bus tickets,
too).
Write it down like this:
od: departure station, eg PRAHA
do: destination station, eg KARLTEJN
as: departure time using 24-hour clock
datum: date, eg for 2.30pm on 20 May, write 14.30h. 20/05. Or just dnes (today)
osoby: number of passengers
jednosmrn (one way) or zpten (return).
TRANSPORT TRAIN
If youre making a reservation on an EC or IC train, you may also want to specify 1. td or 2. td (1st or 2nd class),
and whether you want an okno (window) or chodba (aisle) seat.
One-way domestic train tickets for distances of more than 50km are valid for 24 hours from time of purchase, but
for distances under 50km only until 6am the next day. Note that domestic return tickets (about 10% more expensive
than singles) are only valid for 48 hours from time of purchase if you plan to be away for more than two days, buy
two one-way tickets instead.
bag per day 15 or 30K) and luggage lockers (60K) that At Pragues main train station, you can get
accept 5K, 10K and 20K coins. information on international services at the D
There are four metro station entrances in info centre at the south end of the main con-
the concourse the two nearer the stairs from course, and from ticket windows 2 to 8 (usually
level 3 lead to the northbound platform (di- only one of them look for a sign advertising
rection Letany), the two nearer the exits are information in English). Full printed timetables
southbound (direction Haje). Public transport are displayed on level 3; timetable information
tickets and information are available at the is available online at www.vlak.cz.
DPP booths beside the southbound metro The big display board on the main concourse
entrances. There are taxi ranks at either end lists departures with columns marked druh
of the concourse. To find the nearest tram vlaku (type of train EC for international, IC
stop (for trams 5, 9 and 26), exit the main for domestic, etc), islo vlaku (train number),
concourse and turn right; the stop is at the cilov stanice (final destination), smr (via),
far end of the park. odjezd (departure time) and nat (platform
Try not to arrive in the middle of the night number). To make sure youre on the correct
the station closes from 12.40am to 3.40am, train, confirm that its number (displayed on a
and the surrounding area is a magnet for pick- panel on the side of the carriage) matches the
pockets and drunks. train number of the service you want.
You can buy domestic tickets (vnitrosttn
jzdenky) at the odd-numbered ticket windows
Leaving Prague by Train (marked with an A) to the left of the departures
You can buy international train tickets in board on the main concourse; for international
advance from train stations and D Travel (Map advance reservations (meznrodn rezervace)
p106; %972 233 930; V Celnici 6, Nov Msto) and edok go to windows 2 to 8 (marked B), and for in-
(Map pp1089; %221 447 242; www.cedok.com; Na Pkop ternational tickets (meznrodn jzdenky) go to
18, Nov Msto) travel agencies. windows 12 to 24 (marked C) to the right.
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D I R EC TO RY
BUSINESS HOURS For an even higher viewpoint, go to the TV
Tower (p128) in ikov.
Shops tend to open from 8.30am to 5pm or March is the time of the St Matthew Fair
6pm Monday to Friday, and 8.30am to noon (p16), when Holeovices exhibition grounds are
or 1pm on Saturday. Department stores close full of fairground rides, shooting galleries and
at 8pm Monday to Friday, and at 6pm on candy floss; in summer there are rowing and
Saturday and Sunday. Touristy shops in cen- paddle boats for hire along the Vltava River as
tral Prague are open later at night and all day well as river cruises and boat tours (p251).
Saturday and Sunday. At weekends and on holidays between April
Banks generally open 8am to 4.30pm and mid-November, vintage tram cars trun-
Monday to Friday. The citys main post of- dle along a special sightseeing route, line 91,
fice opens 7am to 8pm every day, while other around the city centre (see p252 for more infor-
post offices open 8am to 6pm or 7pm Monday mation). And dont miss the changing of the
to Friday and until noon on Saturday. Restau- guard at Prague Castle (see p61 for details)
rants tend to open between 10am and 11pm but get into position before the crowds do, or
(cafs generally open around 8am), while bars
DIRECTORY BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN Babysitting
Czechs are very family oriented, and there are The Prague Information Service (Prask informan sluba,
plenty of activities for children around the PIS; %12444 or 221 714 444 in English & German; www.prague
city. An increasing number of Prague restau- -info.cz) usually has a list of babysitting (hldan
rants cater specifically for children, with play dt) agencies, and most top-end hotels provide
areas and so on, and many offer a childrens a babysitting service; rates are generally around
menu (dtsk jdelnek); even if they dont, 150K per hour. Prague Family (%224 224 044; www
they can usually provide smaller portions for .praguefamily.cz) is an agency that can provide
a lower price. English-speaking babysitters.
For outdoor activities take a walk around
Prague Zoo (p140) if possible, go there by boat
(p251) or hire inline skates at Letn Gardens CLIMATE
(p208). Petn (p84) is a beautiful park on a hill Prague has warm, occasionally showery sum-
where parents and kids alike can take a break mers and cold, often snowy winters with gen-
from sightseeing, and climb up the Petn erally changeable conditions. A typical day in
Lookout Tower for terrific views over Prague. Prague from June to August sees the mercury
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(including gifts and souvenirs). Anything over
lonelyplanet.com
Average
PRAGUE 262m (860ft) Max/Min
C F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
this limit must be declared to customs officers.
40 104 100 4 100 People under 17 do not get the alcohol and
30 86 80
tobacco allowances.
Any goods you buy in the Czech Republic
20 68 60
2 50
can be taken to any other EU country without
10 50 40 paying additional VAT. If you are resident
0 32 20
outside the EU, you may be able to reclaim
-10 14 0 0 0
VAT on your purchases (see p144). Youre not
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D permitted to export genuine antiques.
There is no limit to the amount of Czech
range from about 12C to 22C. Temperatures or foreign currency that can be taken in or
from December to February push below freez- out of the country, but amounts exceeding
ing. Wide variations are common, sometimes 500,000K must be declared.
surpassing 35C in summer and -20C in win-
ter. The summers long, sunny, hot spells tend
to be broken by sudden, heavy thunderstorms. DISCOUNT CARDS
In general, May and September enjoy the most The Prague Card is a combined admission
pleasant weather. card and public-transport pass. The admission
See p16 for advice on the best time to visit. card is valid for one year, but the transport
DIRECTORY COURSES
ticket is valid only for 48 hours, allowing un-
limited travel on metro, trams and buses. The
COURSES card provides free entry to around a dozen city
Places offering Czech language courses: sights, including the Loreta, the TV Tower
Institute for Language & Preparatory Studies (stav and the Vyehrad Casemates, plus discounts
jazykov a odborn pprav; Map p116; %224 990 of up to 50% at others including the Museum
420; www.ujop.cuni.cz; Vratislavova 10, Vyehrad; of Communism. However, it does not include
mVyehrad) JOP runs six-week Czech language courses major attractions such as Prague Castle, the
for foreigners. No prior knowledge of the Czech language is Church of St Nicholas in Mal Strana and the
required. The course fee is 610, not including accommo- Prague Jewish Museum.
dation. You can also opt for individual lessons (45 minutes) The pass costs 860K (or 32.50 if bought
at 550K each. Further details and an application form are via the internet), and can be purchased from
available on the website. the EuroAgentur desk at Prague Airport, the
London School of Modern Languages (Map pp589; Prague Card Change Office (Map pp1089; Vodikova 34,
%226 096 140; www.londonschool.cz; Podolsk 54, Nov Msto; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) and online at www
Podol; j3, 16, 17, 21) Offers Czech courses for both .praguecard.info.
individuals and companies, including specialised Czech
language courses for business, law or IT. Individual tuition
costs from 350K for a 45-minute lesson. ELECTRICITY
Electricity in Prague is 230V, 50Hz AC. Out-
lets have the standard European socket with
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS two small round holes and a protruding earth
(ground) pin. If you have a different plug,
Travelling between the Czech Republic and
other EU countries, you can import/export bring an adaptor (see www.kropla.com for
800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, 1kg info). North American 110V appliances will
of smoking tobacco, 10L of spirits, 20L of also need a transformer if they dont have
fortified wine (eg port or sherry), 90L of wine built-in voltage adjustment.
and 110L of beer, provided the goods are for
personal use only (each country sets its own
guide levels; these figures are minimums).
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Travellers from outside the EU can import Australia (Map p106; %296 578 350; www.dfat.gov.au
or export, duty-free, a maximum of 200 ciga- /missions/countries/cz.html; 6th fl, Klimentsk 10, Nov
rettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250g of Msto) Honorary consulate for emergency assistance only
tobacco; 2L of still table wine; 1L of spirits (eg a stolen passport); the nearest Australian embassy is
or 2L of fortified wine, sparkling wine or li- in Vienna.
queurs; 60mL of perfume; 250mL of eau de Austria (Map p138; %257 090 511; www.austria.cz, in
toilette; and 175 worth of all other goods German & Czech; Viktora Huga 10, Smchov)
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Canada (Map pp1323; %272 101 800; www.canada.cz; The bimonthly gay guide and contact mag-
Muchova 6, Bubene) azine Amigo has a few pages in English, but
the Gay Guide Prague (http://prague.gayguide.net) is the
France (Map pp767; %251 171 711; www.france.cz, in most useful source of information. See also
French & Czech; Velkoperovsk nmst 2, Mal Strana) the boxed text (p195) for gay-friendly venues
Germany (Map pp767; %257 113 111; www.deutsch and accommodation options.
land.cz, in German & Czech; Vlask 19, Mal Strana)
Ireland (Map pp767; %257 530 061; www.embassyof
ireland.cz; Trit 13, Mal Strana)
HOLIDAYS
Banks, offices, department stores and some
Israel (Map pp1323; %233 097 500; http://prague.mfa shops will be closed on public holidays. Res-
.gov.il; Badeniho 2, Bubene) taurants, museums and tourist attractions
Netherlands (Map pp1323; %233 015 200; www tend to stay open. See also p16.
.netherlandsembassy.cz; Gotthardsk 6/27, Bubene) New Years Day 1 January
New Zealand (Map p121; %222 514 672; egermayer@ Easter Monday March/April
nzconsul.cz; Dykova 19, Vinohrady) Honorary consulate Labour Day 1 May
providing emergency assistance only (eg stolen passport);
Liberation Day 8 May
the nearest NZ embassy is in Berlin.
Sts Cyril & Methodius Day 5 July
Poland Embassy (Map pp767; %257 099 500; www.pra
Jan Hus Day 6 July
DIRECTORY EMERGENCY
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WI-FI ACCESS
You can search for wi-fi hotspots in Prague (and around the world) at www.jiwire.com. More and more cafs and bars
in Prague are advertising free wi-fi for paying customers, but in our experience around half the places boasting this
service dont actually have a functioning internet connection (Sorry, its not working today); if its important, make
sure you can connect before buying a drink! We have found the following places, along with the branches of Starbucks
on Malostransk nmst and in the Palladium shopping mall, to have reliable, free wi-fi connections:
Caf Caf (p182)
Caf Savoy (p181)
Caffe Kaaba (p185)
Grand Caf Orient (p181)
Kva Kva Kva (p182) Need to ask for password.
per min 1K; h10am-midnight; mKarlovo Nmst) easier to deal with, but almost none speak
No minimum. Also has wi-fi and ethernet ports so you can fluent English.
connect your own laptop (same price; cables provided, Penalties for dealing in drugs are harsh and
50K deposit). its unlikely that your embassy can do much to
help if you are caught, but new laws passed in
Internet Centre (Map pp889; Rytsk 18, Star Msto;
2008 have decriminalised the possession of a
lonelyplanet.com
mNmst Republiky) offers a 2-hour guided cy-
commission. cling tour through the city or an easy evening
Hotels charge about 5% to 8% commission, pedal through the parks (490K). Tours depart
while edok travel agencies and post offices at 2.30pm mid-March to October and also at
charge 2% similar rates to the banks. Note 11.30am and 5.30pm May to September. Trips
that Scottish and Northern Irish banknotes outside the city can also be arranged. Helmets
are almost impossible to change, and where and locks are provided, and bikes are available
they are accepted youll get a worse exchange for private rental (see p207).
rate than for Bank of England notes. AVE Travel (Map pp1089; %251 551 011; www.bicycle
Try to avoid the many private exchange -tours.cz) operates a full-day guided bicycle
booths (smnrna) in the main tourist areas. tour from Prague to Karltejn Castle (p230) for
They lure you in with attractive-looking ex- 1500K per person, including bike hire, lunch
change rates that turn out to be sell (prodej at Karltejn and a train ticket back to the city. It
or prodajme) rates; if you want to change also offers bike trips to Konopit (p232) and one-
foreign currency into Czech crowns, the buy week tours through the Czech countryside.
(nkup) rate applies. There is also an even
worse rate for transactions under a certain
amount, typically around 500. Check the Boat
rates carefully, and ask exactly how much you Evropsk Vodn Doprava (EVD; Map pp889; %224 810 030;
will get before parting with any money. www.evd.cz; echv most, Star Msto; j17) operates
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(upstream) through a wild, green landscape to Wittmann Tours (Map p121; %222 252 472; www
the Slapy Dam at Tebrenice. This fine, all-day .wittmann-tours.com; Mnesova 8, Vinohrady) offers a
escape costs 340/170K return, arriving back three-hour walking tour of Josefov (850K
in the city at 6.30pm. per person) that begins at 9.30am Monday,
Boats making the 1-hour trip to Troja Wednesday and Friday from May to October.
(near the zoo; 140/70K one way) depart at Wittmann also runs seven-hour day trips to
8.30am on weekdays in May and June only, Terezn (p234) for 1150/1000K per adult/stu-
at 9.30am, 12.30pm and 3.30pm daily May to dent. In our opinion, the Wittmann tours are
mid-September, and at weekends and holi- better than the Precious Legacy ones as they
days in April and from mid-September to the feel less rushed and more personal.
end of October. Returning boats depart from
Troja at 11am, 2pm and 5pm.
Personal Guides
An affiliate of the Prague Information Service
Bus & Tram (PIS), Pragotur (Map pp889; %236 002 562; guides@pis
Nostalgic Tram No 91 (%233 343 349; www.dpp.cz; Muz- .cz; Old Town Hall, Staromstsk nmst 1; 3hr tour per person
eum MHD [Public Transport Museum], Patokova 4, Steovice; 1000K, per 2 persons 1200K plus 300K per additional person;
adult/child 25/10K; hdeparts hourly noon-5.30pm Sat, Sun h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) can arrange
& hols Aprmid-Nov) offers vintage tram cars dat- personal guides fluent in all major European
ing from 1908 to 1924, which trundle along languages. The desk is in the PIS office in the
DIRECTORY ORGANISED TOURS
lonelyplanet.com
nmst 47, Nov Msto; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm
(Map pp889). Sat) has a convenient office just off Wenceslas
Lots of travellers have recommended Georges Square, with English-speaking staff.
Guided Walks (%607 820 158; www.praguemaster.com
/george), whose intimate, personalised tours
include a four-hour History Walk (up to four RADIO
persons 2200K; if you have been to Prague Radio Prague (www.radio.cz; 92.6MHz FM) broadcasts
before, hell take you off the beaten track); 15-minute-long programmes in English
a two-hour Iron Curtain Walk (up to four covering Czech news, culture and current af-
persons 1400K); and a five-hour pub crawl, fairs at 7.07pm Monday to Thursday. The
including dinner in a Czech pub (1400K per citys best alternative music station is Radio
person). George will meet you at your hotel, 1 (91.9MHz FM), though commercial-free
or anywhere else thats convenient. Radio Wave (100.7MHz FM), which broad-
Prague Walks (%222 322 309; www.praguewalks casts an English-language breakfast show on
.com; per person 300-1000K) runs interesting jaunts Fridays, gives it a good run for its money.
with themes such as Prague architecture, The BBC World Service (www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice)
ikov pubs and the Velvet Revolution. Meet broadcasts both English-language and Czech
at the Astronomical Clock (Map pp889), or you news and cultural programmes locally on
can arrange to be met at your hotel. 101.1MHz FM, from 11am to 1pm and 4pm
to 8am.
DIRECTORY POST
POST
The main post office (Map pp1089; %221 131 111; www SAFETY
.cpost.cz; Jindisk 14, Nov Msto; h2am-midnight; Although Prague is as safe as any European
mMstek), just off Wenceslas Square, uses capital, the huge influx of money to the city
an automatic queuing system. Take a ticket has spawned an epidemic of petty crime.
from one of the machines in the entrance Where tourists are concerned, this mainly
corridors press button No 1 for stamps, means pickpockets. The prime trouble spots
letters and parcels, or No 4 for Express Mail are Prague Castle (especially at the chang-
Service (EMS). Then watch the display boards ing of the guard), Charles Bridge, Old Town
in the main hall when your ticket number Square (in the crowd watching the Astronom-
appears (flashing), go to the desk number ical Clock), the entrance to the Old Jewish
shown. Most of the citys other post offices Cemetery, Wenceslas Square, the main train
open from 8am to 6pm or 7pm Monday to station, in the metro (watch your backpack
Friday and until noon Saturday. on escalators) and on trams (notably on the
The Czech postal service (esk Pota) is crowded lines 9, 22 and 23).
fairly efficient. Anything you cant afford to Theres no need to be paranoid, but keep
lose, however, should go by registered mail valuables well out of reach, and be alert in
(doporuen dopis) or by EMS. A postcard crowds and on public transport. A classic
or letter up to 20g costs 17K to other Eu- ruse involves someone asking directions and
ropean countries and 18K for destinations thrusting a map under your nose, or a woman
outside Europe. A 2kg parcel by EMS costs with a baby hassling you for money anything
900K to Europe, 1200K to North America to distract your attention while accomplices
and 1600K to Australia. You can buy stamps delve into your bags and pockets.
from street vendors and newspaper kiosks as
well as from post offices.
You can pick up poste-restante mail (vdej Lost or Stolen Belongings
listovnch zsilek) at desk Nos 1 and 2 (at the If your passport, wallet or other valuables
far left) in the main post office from 7am have been stolen, report the loss to any police
to 8pm Monday to Friday and until noon station within 24 hours. The easiest place is
Saturday. Mail should be addressed to Poste the Praha 1 police station (Map pp1089; Jungmannovo
Restante, Hlavn pota, Jindisk 14, 110 00 nmst 9; h24hr), near the foot of Wenceslas
Praha 1, Czech Republic. You must present Square. Tell them what language you speak,
your passport to claim mail (check under your and theyll give you a standard crime report
first name, too). Mail is held for one month. form (Policejn zprva) to fill out, which they
If you need a professional courier service, will stamp and return (this is for insurance
DHL (Map pp1089; %800 103 000; www.dhl.cz; Vclavsk purposes only; the crime will almost certainly
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not be investigated). Unless you speak Czech, is a prepaid calling card, which allows you
forget about phoning the police, as you will to make domestic and international calls
rarely get through to an English speaker. Once from any phone or payphone in the Czech
you have a crime report, you can apply to the Republic.
consular department of your embassy for a You can also make international calls from
replacement passport. the telephone bureau at the main post office
Do likewise if you have lost your passport, (to the left inside the right-hand entrance)
wallet or other valuables. For anything except you simply pay a deposit and make your call
travel documents, you might get lucky at the in a soundproof booth, where a little meter
citys lost & found office (ztrty a nlezy; Map pp889; ticks off the rate.
%224 235 085; Karoliny Svtl 5; h8am-noon & 12.30- The telephone bureau has directories for
5.30pm Mon & Wed, to 4pm Tue & Thu, to 2pm Fri; j6, 9, Prague and other major cities. You can also
18, 22, 23). Theres another lost & found office (%220 look up business phone numbers online at
114 283; h24hr) at the airport. www.zlatestranky.cz.
lems. Overt hostility towards visitors is rare, compatible with the North American GSM
though there have been some assaults by skin- 1900 or the totally different system in Japan.
heads on dark-skinned people. Some North Americans, however, have dual-
band GSM 1900/900 phones that do work here;
check with your service provider about using
Scams your mobile abroad, and beware of calls being
Beware of men who claim to be plain-clothes routed internationally (which is very expensive
police officers investigating counterfeiting or for a local call). The main mobile networks
illegal moneychanging. They approach tourists in Prague are Telefonica/O2 (www.cz.o2.com), T-Mobile
and ask to see their money, which is returned (www.t-mobile.cz) and Vodafone (www.vodafone.cz).
after being examined. When you check your If your mobile phone is unlocked, you can
wallet youll find that a substantial amount of buy a Czech SIM card from any mobile phone
money has been taken. No genuine police of- shop for around 450K (including 300K of
ficer has the right to inspect your money. calling credit) and make local calls at local
Another ploy involves a lost tourist asking rates (3K to 9K a minute). In this case, of
for directions (usually in halting English). course, you cant use your existing mobile
Once you have been in conversation for a few number.
minutes, two of the tourists friends inter-
rupt, claiming to be plain-clothes policemen
and accusing you of changing money illegally. Phonecards
They will demand to see your wallet and pass- Local prepaid cards include Smartcall (www.smart
port, but if you hand them over they are likely call.cz) and Karta X Plus you can buy them
to run off with them. from hotels, newspaper kiosks and tourist
information offices for 300K to 1000K.
To use one, follow the instructions on the
TELEPHONE card dial the access number, then the PIN
All Czech phone numbers have nine digits code beneath the scratch-away panel, then
you have to dial all nine for any call, local or the number you want to call (including any
long distance (there are no area codes). All international code). Rates from Prague to the
land-line numbers in Prague begin with a 2; UK, USA and Australia with Smartcall are
mobile numbers begin with a 6 or 7. See the around 6.6K to 10K a minute; the more
inside front cover for useful phone numbers expensive the card, the better the rate.
and codes.
There are payphones all over town that
can be used to make local, long-distance and TIME
international calls. Coin-operated phones The Czech Republic is on Central European
accept only 2K, 5K, 10K and 20K coins; Time, ie GMT/UTC plus one hour. Clocks are
a more common and convenient alternative set to daylight-saving time in summer, that
254
is, forward one hour on the last weekend in
lonelyplanet.com
UK (%020-7631 0427, brochure requests 09063-640641;
March and back one hour on the last weekend 13 Harley St, London W1G 9QG)
in October. Czechs use the 24-hour clock. USA (%212-288 0830; 1109 Madison Ave, New York,
NY 10028)
TOILETS
Public toilets are free in state-run museums,
galleries and concert halls. Elsewhere, such as TRAVELLERS WITH
in train, bus and metro stations, public toilets
are staffed by attendants who charge 5K to
DISABILITIES
Increasing, but still limited, attention is being
10K for admission. Most places are clean and paid to facilities for people with disabilities in
well kept. Mens are marked mui or pni, and Prague. Wheelchair ramps are becoming more
womens eny or dmy. common, especially at major street intersec-
In the main tourist areas, there are public tions, in newer shopping malls and in top-end
toilets in Prague Castle; opposite the tram hotels (in the Sleeping chapter we identify
stop on Malostransk nmst; next to the hotels with facilities for wheelchair users).
Goltz-Kinsk Palace on Old Town Square; For people who are blind or vision-impaired,
on Templova, just off Celetn close to the most pedestrian crossings in central Prague
Powder Gate; on Uheln trh in the Old Town; have a sound signal to indicate when its safe
and next to the Laterna Magika on Nrodn to cross. McDonalds and KFC entrances and
DIRECTORY TOILETS
tda. toilets are wheelchair-friendly.
Much of Prague Castle is wheelchair-
TOURIST INFORMATION accessible, but the cobbled streets, narrow
pavements and steep hills of the surrounding
The Prague Information Service (Prask informan sluba,
PIS; %12444 or 221 714 444 in English & German; www Hradany and Mal Strana districts are not.
.prague-info.cz) is the main provider of tourist The Estates Theatre (p199) is equipped for the
information: it has good maps and detailed hearing-impaired, while the Convent of St
brochures (including accommodation options Agnes (p95) has a ground-floor presentation of
and historical monuments), all free. PIS also medieval sculptures with explanatory text in
sells public transport tickets. Braille; these venues and several other theatres
There are four PIS offices: are wheelchair-accessible. The monthly whats-
on booklet Pehled which is published by PIS
Main train station (Praha hlavn ndra; Map pp1089; in Czech only indicates venues with wheel-
Wilsonova 2, Nov Msto; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am- chair access. We also note lifts and other acces-
4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat sibility factors in individual listings.
& Sun Nov-Mar) Few buses and no trams have wheelchair
Mal Strana Bridge Tower (Map pp767; Charles Bridge; access; special wheelchair-accessible buses
h10am-6pm Apr-Oct) operate Monday to Friday on bus lines 1
Old Town Hall (Map pp889; Staromstsk nmst 5, and 3, including between Florenc bus sta-
Star Msto; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar) tion and nmst Republiky, and between
Holeovice train station and nmst Repub-
Rytrsk (Map pp889; Rytrsk 31, Star Msto; h9am-
liky (visit the website at www.dpp.cz for more
7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar)
information).
Pragues main train station (Praha hlavn
Overseas Offices ndra), Praha-Holeovice train station and
a handful of metro stations (Hlavn Ndra,
Czech Tourism (www.czechtourism.com) offices around
the world provide information about tourism, Hrka, Luka, Luiny, Ndra Holeovice,
culture and business in the Czech Republic. Stodlky and Zlin) have self-operating lifts.
Other metro stations (Chodov, Dejvick, Flor-
Austria (%01-533 21933; Herrengasse 17, 1010 Vienna)
enc C line, Hje, IP Pavlova, Opatov, Pankrc,
France (%01 53 73 00 22; rue Bonaparte 18, 75006 Paris) Roztyly and Skalka) have modified lifts that
Germany (%030-204 4770; Friedrichstrasse 206, 10969 can be used with the help of station staff.
Berlin-Kreuzberg) Czech Railways (D) claims that every large
Netherlands (%020-575 3014; Strawinskylaan 517, station in the country has wheelchair ramps
1077 XX Amsterdam) and lifts, but in fact the service is poor.
When flying, travellers with special needs
Poland (%022-629 2916; Al. R 16, 00-556 Warsaw) should inform the airline of their requirements
255
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lonelyplanet.com
when booking, and again when reconfirm- ies. Avoid the park in front of Pragues main
ing, and again when checking in. Most inter- train station after dark, and be aware that the
national airports (including Pragues) have area around the intersection of Wenceslas
ramps, lifts and wheelchair-accessible toilets Square and Na Pkop is effectively a red-
and telephones. Aircraft toilets, on the other light district at night. The city has developed a
hand, present problems for wheelchair users, burgeoning sex industry, with strip clubs, lap-
who should discuss this early on with the air- dancing clubs, brothels and street workers all
line and/or their doctor. in evidence, and British stag parties stumbling
Some useful organisations include the drunkenly through the streets around Wenc-
following: eslas Square at weekends.
Czech Blind United (Sjednocen organizace nevidomch There are few services for women such as
a slabozrakch v R; Map pp1089; %221 462 146; www help-lines and refuge or rape crisis centres.
.braillnet.cz; Krakovsk 21, Nov Msto) Represents the The main organisation in Prague is the White
vision-impaired; provides information but no services. Circle of Safety (Bl kruh bezpe; Map p138; %257 317
110; www.bkb.cz; Dukova 20, Smchov), which provides
Prague Wheelchair Users Organisation (Prask organ- help and counselling to victims of crime and
izace vozk; Map pp889; %224 827 210; www.pov violence.
.cz, in Czech; Benediktsk 6, Star Msto) Can organise a
guide and transportation at about half the cost of a taxi,
and has a CD-ROM guide to barrier-free Prague in Czech, WORK
DIRECTORY VISAS
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L AN G UAG E
Czech (etina) is the main language spoken in the Czech Republic. It belongs to the West
Slavonic group of Indo-European languages, along with Slovak, Polish and Lusatian.
Its true anyone can speak another language. Dont worry if you havent studied languages
before or that you studied a language at school for years and cant remember any of it. It
doesnt even matter if you failed English grammar. After all, thats never affected your ability
to speak English! And this is the key to picking up a language in another country. You just
need to start speaking.
Learn a few key phrases before you go. Write them on pieces of paper and
stick them on the fridge, by the bed or even on the computer anywhere that
youll see them often.
Youll find that locals appreciate travellers trying their language, no mat-
ter how muddled you may think you sound. So dont just stand there, say
something! If you want to learn more Czech than weve included here, pick
up a copy of Lonely Planets comprehensive but user-friendly Czech Phrase-
book. For a more concise language guide, look for Lonely Planets Small Talk
Eastern Europe.
PRONUNCIATION ej
ij/yj
as the ay in day
short; as iy
Its not easy to learn Czech pronunciation,
and you may have to learn a few new linguistic j/j longer version of ij/yj
LANGUAGE PRONUNCIATION
tricks to do so. It is, however, spelt the way its oj as the oi in void
spoken, and once you become familiar with ou as the o in note, though each vowel is more
the sounds, its easy to read. Stress is usually strongly pronounced than in English
on the first syllable. uj as the u in pull, followed by the y in year
j longer version of uj
Vowels
Vowels have long and short variants; they
have the same pronunciation, but the long
Consonants
c as the ts in lets
vowels are simply held for longer. The long
vowels are indicated by an acute accent. The as the ch in chew
following approximations reflect British pro- ch like ch in Scottish loch
nunciation: j as the y in year
r a rolled r (at the tip of the tongue)
a as the u in cut no English equivalent; a rolled rzh sound, as in
as the a in father the composer, Dvok
e as in bet as the sh in ship
as the word air a zh sound, as the s in treasure
as the ye in yet
, , very soft palatal sounds, ie consonants followed
i/y as the i in bit
/ as the i in marine by a momentary contact between the tongue and
o as in pot the hard palate, as if followed by y (like the ny
as the aw in saw in canyon). The same applies to d, n and t when
u as in pull followed by i, or .
/ as the oo in zoo
All other consonants are similar to their
Diphthongs English counterparts, although the letters
aj as the i in ice k, p and t are unaspirated, meaning they are
j as the word eye pronounced with no audible puff of breath
au as the ow in how after them.
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SOCIAL Are there any good nightclubs?
Jsou tady njak dobr non podniky?
Greetings & Civilities Language Difficulties
Hello/Good day.
Dobr den. (polite) Do you speak English?
Ahoj. (informal) Mluvte anglicky?
Goodbye. I understand.
Na shledanou. (polite) Rozumm.
Ahoj/au. (informal) I dont understand.
Yes. Nerozumm.
Ano/Jo. (polite/informal) Could you write it down, please?
No. Mete mi to napsat, prosm?
Ne.
May I? (asking permission)
Dovolte mi? PRACTICAL
Sorry/Excuse me. (apologising or seeking
assistance)
Directions
Do you have a Mte mapu okol?
Promite. local map?
Could you help me, please? Where is ...? Kde je ...?
Prosm, mete mi pomoci? Go straight ahead. Jdte pmo.
Please.
Turn left. Zatote vlevo.
Prosm.
Turn right. Zatote vpravo.
Thank you (very much).
behind za
(Mockrt) dkuji.
Youre welcome. (as in dont mention it) in front of ped
Nen za. far daleko
Good morning. near blzko
LANGUAGE SOCIAL
LANGUAGE PRACTICAL
When? Kdy?
Post Office Where? Kde?
Wheres a/the post office? How? Jak?
Kde je pota?
LANGUAGE FOOD
peivo bread rolls
smaen vepov zek fried pork schnitzel
pep black pepper
opsk salt lettuce, tomato, onion & cheese salad
plody moe seafood
vejce se slaninou bacon & eggs
polvka soup
pomeran orange
FOOD GLOSSARY pstruh trout
ananas pineapple raje tomato
arady peanuts rozinky raisins (sultanas)
bann banana ryba fish
brambor potato re rice
brokolice broccoli salm salami
esnek garlic skopov mutton
chlb bread slanina bacon
cibule onion sle herring
citrn lemon lehaka whipped cream
okolda chocolate smetana cream
cuketa zucchini (courgette) sjov omka soy sauce
cukr sugar sjov mlko soy milk
dort cake sjov tvaroh tofu
dn pumpkin pent spinach
fazole bean sl salt
hlvkov lettuce unka ham
hoice mustard svkov sirloin
houba mushroom sr cheese
hovz beef tatarsk omka tartar sauce
hrek peas telec veal
hruka pear tstovina pasta
jablko apple tuk tuna
jahoda strawberry tvaroh cottage cheese
jehn lamb stice oyster
jogurt yogurt vanilka vanilla
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vaen boiled bez kofeinu decaffeinated
vejce eggs bez ledu without ice
vepov pork s citrnem with lemon
zelenina vegetables s ledem with ice
zel cabbage, sauerkraut s mlkem with milk
zmrzlina ice cream se smetanou with cream
METHODS OF PREPARATION
erstv fresh EMERGENCIES
fritovan deep-fried Help!
grilovan broiled Pomoc!
hork hot Its an emergency!
krvav rare (of meat) To je nalhav ppad!
mchan mixed
Could you please help me?
na rotu grilled
Prosm, mete mi pomoci?
peen roasted
Call an ambulance/a doctor/the police!
Zavolejte sanitku/doktora/policii!
propeen well-done (of meat)
Wheres the police station?
se srem with cheese
Kde je policejn stanice?
sladk sweet
smaen fried
stedn propeen
studen
medium rare (of meat)
cold
HEALTH
Wheres the ...?
tepl warm Kde je ...?
uzen smoked chemist/ lkrna
LANGUAGE EMERGENCIES
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LANGUAGE GLOSSARY
hostinec pub
samoobsluha self-service, minimarket
hrad castle
hbitov cemetery sleva discount
stanice train stop or station
jzdenka ticket sv (svat) Saint
kaple chapel
tda (t) avenue
katedral cathedral
kavrna caf or coffee shop ulice (ul) street
K (Koruna esk) Czech crown ulika (ul) lane
kino cinema Velvet Divorce separation of Czechoslovakia into fully
knihkupectv bookshop
independent Czech and Slovak republics in 1993
kolky duty stamps, for payment at certain government
offices, such as for a visa extension; sold at post offices Velvet Revolution (Sametov revoluce) bloodless
and elsewhere overthrow of Czechoslovakia's communist regime in
kostel church 1989
koupelna bathroom v tower
kreditn karta credit card vinrna wine bar
KSM Czech Communist Party vlak train
lkrna pharmacy vdej listovnch zsilek poste restante mail
msto town zahrada gardens, park
most bridge zmek chateau
muzeum museum zastvka bus, tram or train stop
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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