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Green curry chicken, easy pork fabada, orange honey cake

Issue 2,2016


4 week

adlai, cacao,
lansones, and
so much more

What we
saw, learned,
ate at this
years biggest
culinary event

sa gata
by Cecille

Lets make this Filipino

favorite our national dish
F o o d Lo v e s

Pairing Off
Like bread and butter, bacon and eggs, green mango
and bagoong, some foods just taste better together
Photography by PAT MATEO
Styling by BUTCHIE PEA

My favorite pairing will Grilled kesong puti with Capers and tinapa might
always be wine and cheese. a slice of tomato. Grilling not sound like the perfect
I like different varietals with makes the cheese creamy pairing, but try it and see.
different kinds of cheese. and spreadable, with just the Heres an easy recipe I throw
But I recently discovered right amount of tanginess. together.
this divine combination of Its perfect topped on - Butchie Pea,
Malagos La Maria cheese leftover adobo flakes over food stylist and
with Malagos bignay nectar. hot pandesal. Works well illustrator
The creamy and velvety with hot chocolate, too.
taste is accentuated by the Aby Nachura, Tinapa
fruity nectar concentrate, food stylist and recipe and Caper Pasta
just perfect for food cravings. developer Serves 4 to 6 1. Prepare pasta according
With a glass of red wine, to package directions. Drain
naturally. Dim sum + alcohol is always 200 grams pasta from water and set aside.
Marilen Fontanilla, a pleasure. Dim sum with water, for boiling pasta 2. In a skillet, heat olive oil.
writer fine cognac is perhaps the 2 tablespoons olive oil Saut garlic, and capers and
ultimate, but dim sum with 3 cloves garlic, minced red bell pepper. Add cooked
I love chicken and pork beer is great, too! 1 bottle tinapa with capers, pasta noodles. Toss until
adobo! Its the ultimate - Troy Barrios, preferably Connies noodles are coated with the
Pinoy food, especially when managing editor 1 red bell pepper, mixture.
paired with rice. Im sold! cut into strips 3. Transfer to serving plate
Paul del Rosario, fresh basil, for garnish and garnish with basil.

Helena napkin ring, Crate&Barrel

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 1

Issue 2, 2016

The The Amazing Adobo
Lets make it our
Philippine national dish!
By Amy Uy
Issue 35
Reporting Madrid Fusin
The most important
gastronomy congress in the
world gathers in Manila
By The FOOD Team

Sourced from Mindanao
Five heirloom ingredients
from the south
By Troy Barrios

2 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Vol. 1, Issue 2

Regulars Food Tour

1 FOOD Loves 90 A new side of Davao
6 Starter Youll love the dynamic food
7 Tastings scene in this city
101 Events By Marilen Fontanilla

Columns Home Basics

15 Homegrown 73 Light and Right
Discover Moro cuisine The healing power of turmeric
By Tatung Sarthou By Datu Shariff Pendatun III

16 Wellness 77 Simply Desserts

The truth about coconut oil Sweeten with honey
By Gerry H. Tan By Tina Concepcion Diaz

17 Sweet Stuff 80 Cooking Class

A riff on the banana cream pie Three versions of Thai curry
By Joey E. Prats By Chef Khun Ja

18 Key Ingredient 84 30 Minutes or Less

Cashew is not a nut Easy appetizers
By Jill F. Sandique By Arnold Guevara

Dining Out 87 D.I.Y.

20 Around the World Special sawsawan
Kiwa Korean Grill, Roux, Royal By Mitchie Sison
Indian Curry House. Tapenade,
Taqueria 101 Last Bite
110 Luz Ocampo, the food artist
Features By Michaela Fenix
44 Asias 50 Best Restaurants
Meet this years exciting list of
winners from all over the region
By Anne Marie Ozaeta

58 Cook it 5 Ways
Delicious ways to use local fruit
in your dishes
By Katherine Jao

65 A modern degustation
Pepitas Kitchen unveils its new
By Yvette Tan

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 3

Starters 72 Crab in gata Sides Snacks
84 Asparagus involtini and taba ng talangka 74 Bihod fried rice 48 Banana loaf
72 Crispy kansi 48 Easy pork fabada on 72 Black gold with cacao nibs and
84 Feta and adlai grains 109 Chilled summer cashew nuts
watermelon salad 35 Fried sea bass in black spaghetti 109 Croque monsieur
48 Fresh pomelo pepper sauce 103 Green beans et croque madame
and lansones salad 48 Ginataang tuna and fried tofu sil vous plait
84 Monggo soup with at langka 35 Sea urchin rice 98 Malagos farmhouse
free-range chicken 80 Green curry chicken 64 Seafood pancit buko fondue
84 Sesame seed tuna 74 Inihaw na tiyan 32 Spicy adobo 64 Mango muffins
balls ng bangus with summer vegetables 98 Veggie burger
64Warm spinach, salted egg 1 Tinapa and
Tyrolean bacon 80 Massaman curry beef caper pasta Sauces
and dalandan salad 64Paksiw na isda sa 89Black vinegar
with sesame kamias Desserts and garlic paste
vinaigrette 34 Pininyahang adobo 103Baked apple 88 Egg salad
34 Piyanggang chicken 17 Banana coconut 90 Mayo-soy dip
Mains 98 Pollo rosmaria cream pie 89 Roasted eggplant dip
32 Adobo sa gata 80 Red curry crispy pork 64 Kaymito melon 88 Sriracha-lime dip
32 Adobong baka 72 Rellenong manok sherbet 89 Vinegar-ketchup dip
32 Adobong humba 109 Special spicy 18 Cashew clouds
99 Balsamic chicken pork adobo 78 Honey panna cotta Drinks
pesto pasta with fruit compote 72 Dragonfruit cooler
15 Beef kulma 48 Maruya with langka
77 Mini honey buns with
honey caramel sauce
78 Orange honey cake

4 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Editor-in-Chief Anne Marie Ozaeta President, ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.Ernesto L. Lopez
Managing Director Mark Yambot
Managing Editor Regina Troy Barrios Content and Editorial Director Christina N. Lopez
Publishing Operations Head Doris Laxamana
Publisher Concepcion Naguiat
Art Director Noel Avendao
Publishing Assistant Jacqueline Ignacio
Brand Marketing Consultant Mari Santiago
Associate Editor Ginny Mata
Finance Officer Rowena D. Dote
Nutritionist & Recipe Tester Cecilia R. Esperanza, rnd Finance Analyst Sheryl A. Baria

Editorial Assistant Mariel Abanes API Ad Sales Heads Monica Herrera, Racquel Valeriano Celi
Sales Consultant Philip Cu-Unjieng
Editorial Operations Ofcer Zeny Orfano-Gonzales Account Executives Euniz Sunga, Jane Ramirez, Iaree Anico,
Jenny Dayao, Melanie Magtira, Michelle Sy-Yap,
Columnists Roselyn Bisquera, Patricia Villaricas, Patrick Garcia
Digital Sales Manager Rex Anthony Fontanoza
Joey E. Prats, Jill F. Sandique,
Advertising Traffic Assistant Rizza Miralles
Tatung Sarthou, Gerry H. Tan
Events Manager Love Andaya
Photographers Marketing Artists Christian Louis Manuel, Kara Louise Jimenez
Paul del Rosario, JC Inocian, Pat Mateo
Pia Puno, Paulo Valenzuela, Sonny Yambao Ruby Gonzalez
Advertorial and Special Publication Head
Production Specialist Athena Fregillana
Writers Senior Art Director Sherwin Llames
Justin Alexandra Convento, Michaela Fenix, Art Directors Raff Colmenar
Layout Artist Alphard Buenaventura
Marilen Fontanilla, Christine Nunag,
Editorial Assistant Arlyn Rosales
Datu Shariff Pendatun, Yvette Tan, Amy Uy
Retail Operations Head Kristine Hernandez
Stylists Vendor Manager Joy T. Pedraza
Angelique Castro, Tina Concepcion Diaz, Nancy Dizon- Vendor and Marketing Manager Sharleen Soon
Edralin, Athena Fregillana, Aby Nachura, Butchie Pea Logistics Supervisor Fernando Tioyao

Recipe Developers Pre-press Production Manager Andy Lizardo

Nancy Dizon-Edralin, Tina Concepcion Diaz, Pre-press Sales Manager Teresita Bayani
Dedet dela Fuente, Katherine Jao, Pre-press Production Supervisor Gil Cargason Jr.
Art Director Alex Dulay
Aby Nachura, Mitchie Sison
Desktop Operator Seb Cachola
Printing Coordinator Jouie Mar Doca
General Services Head Arnel C. Bon
Butchie Pea HR Account Head Mia Ortiz
HR Account Officer Anika Gregorio

COO, Sky Cable Corporation and Head, Narrowcast Antonio S. Ventosa

Senior Finance Officer, NarrowcastMyca G. Ramos
Ad Sales Cluster Head Jenny Silverio
Marketing Head, Narrowcast Terry Villareal
HR Cluster Head, Narrowcast and Star Creatives Jovie Sy

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and Print Media Group.

8/F ELJ Communications Center, Mother Ignacia Avenue

cor. Eugenio Lopez Jr. Avenue, Quezon City 1103, Philippines
Editorial: Tel. No. 415-2272 local 4645; Fax No. 415-1215
Adobo sa Gata or email food@abs-cbn.com
Recipe by Cecille Esperanza
Advertising: Tel. Nos. 415-2272 local 4655; 924-4101 to 02 local 4668 to 74
Photography by Paulo Valenzuela
Food styling by Nancy Dizon-Edralin
Set styling by Angelique Castro Copyright May 2016 ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.
All rights reserved. All submissions become the property of FOOD Magazine.
Printed in the Philippines. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced in any
manner whatsoever without the written permission of ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc.
For orders and subscription inquiries, please call 415 2810
or 415-2272 local 4826, and look for Lizzel
FOOD |2016 Issue 2 5

Photography by Pat Mateo

Filipino Food in Focus
hat a busy culinary season it has been! The food event of the year,

W Madrid Fusin Manila, now on its second year, came and went,
with the worlds top chefs ying in to speak at the Congress, with
some even cooking at special pop-up dinners. Spanish chefs,
winemakers and purveyors were also in town to highlight Spanish
produce and wines. Visiting Japanese cookbook author Machiko Chiba came
to Manila to spread the word about washoku, Japanese traditional cuisine.
Meanwhile, Asias 50 Best Restaurants 2016 happened in Bangkok, with
Gaggan taking the top spot once again as Best Restaurant in Asia. Finally, the
World Street Food Congress brought 20-plus of the top street food vendors
around the world to Bonifacio Global City for ve days of hawker food
paradise. (More on that in our next issue!)
But what made these events even more signicant is how big a role the
Philippines got to play. At Madrid Fusin Manila, local chefs like Tatung
Sarthou and Miko Aspiras, as well as Brooklyn (and Malate)-based Romy
Dorotan and Amy Besa shone the spotlight on Philippine ingredients and
dishes. Regional lunches held during each of the three days featured special
dishes by the countrys top chefs and purveyors that showcased our local
bounty. At Asias 50 Best Restaurants 2016, the Philippines own Margarita
Fors was awarded Asias Best Female Chef, while Gallery Vask entered the 50 FOOD Goes on a
Best list at No. 39 as the sole Philippine entry. And, during the recent World Street Gastrocrawl at The Grove
Food Congress, the longest lines were at the Pepitas Kitchen stall where Dedet by Rockwell!
de la Fuentes stuffed lechon de leche proved the biggest hit! (In the Entertaining Join us on June 4, 2016 for a fun
section of this issue, read about Dedets unique take on Filipino cuisine.) food crawl and fill your belly with
During Madrid Fusin Manila, I saw the best chefs in the worldJoan Roca, fabulous food samplings from The
Yoshihiro Narisawa, Virgilio Martinezhobnobbing with our Filipino chefs with Grove by Rockwells signature
so much camaraderie and respect. Its heartening to see this exchange of ideas restaurants, accompanied by great
happeningand with Philippine cuisine as part of that discussion. These days, we music, a relaxed vibe, and in the
no longer need to ask ourselves, Why is Filipino cuisine not recognized? Instead, company of friends and family.
lets start asking, What else can we do to promote and celebrate our own food? Visit FOOD Magazine
And one way we can start is by recognizing adobo as our ofcial national dish. on Facebook for more details.
Thats why weve put adobo on our cover, as a way of acknowledging once and for
all, that there can be no otheradobo is it!

Like us on facebook.com/FOODMagazine

Editor-In-Chief Follow us on Instagram: @FOODMagazine

Datu Shariff Yvette Tan Butchie D. Pea
Pendatun III, who is well known is the art director
writes about tur- for her work in of Metro Society.
meric on page 80, is fantasy and horror, She started out in
a culinary consult- for which she has advertising and
ant, a corporate won numerous stumbled onto
chef for Unilever awards Yvette publishing, which
Philippines, and also writes non- she took to like
R&D chef for Kerry fiction, focusing a duck to water.
Ingredients Asia on food, travel and While she dabbles
Pacic. Datu was a winner of the Do- personality profiles. She wrote about in food styling, her heart is with her rst
reen G. Fernandez Food Writing Award Pepitas Kitchen on page 71. Follow her lovepainting. Her medium is oil, but
and was the essayist of Madrid Fusin on Twitter and Instagram @yvette_tan she took on the challenge of painting the
Manila 2016, a book published by the and check out yvettetan.comfor more special feature on Mindanao produce on
Department of Tourism. of her work. page 54, and discovered that she loves it.

6 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

trends | finds | news | media | travel

Our favorite
Crunchy, flavorful snacks
we love, ranging from light
and good-for-you to the
ones youll need to burn off
afterwards at the gym

Healthy-ish Treats
1. Made with 100% whole grain, Nabisco
Wheat Thins Multigrain Toasted Chips
are toasted instead of fried, thus making
them pleasantly light and crunchy.
Available in all leading supermarkets

2. Fried oyster mushrooms? Yes, please!

We like the salty umami goodness of JA
Lees Farms Organic Oyster Mushroom
Chicharon. Available at selected weekend
bazaars. Facebook: jaleesfarms

3. and 4. Were absolutely addicted

to the Spiced Mango variant of Wits
Sweets and Savories Granola! These
treats are made with love and care
in their home kitchen, incorporating
grade-A cacao nibs from their family
farm in Davao, plus dried mango slivers
and siling labuyoDNHVIRUDGGHGNLFN
Available in Earles Delicatessen and
Gourmet Gypsy Caf in Metro Manila;
and Pastanni and Kusina Sa Subli
in Davao. Visit http://witsss.com/

5. Sweet potato (kamote) chips are

a dime a dozen these days, but we
suggest you try Be Good Stores
Camote Chips in two variants, as theyre
the cleanest-tasting, thinnest and
crunchiest kamote chips weve tried.
B Good Store by Bernadette Sembrano,
G/F ELJ Communications Center,
Mother Ignacia Avenue, Quezon City

6. Villa Soccorro Farms Sabanana

Banana Chips come in two variants:
Original and Lite. The latter contains
80% less sugar than the former, and
is crisper and lighter than the original
version. Available in leading supermarkets

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 7

TASTINGS | trends
no transfats, The Daily Craving BBQ Veggie Skinnieze
in leading supermarkets. Visit www.thedailycrave.com
snack, but without the oiliness and possible threat 4. Late nights and movie marathons arent
of food poisoning, Oishis Fishda Fish Kropeck the same without popcorn. Cult classic Chef
hits all the right notes: light, pleasantly salty Tonys Gourmet Popcorn comes in many
and crunchy. Available in leading supermarkets variants, but we particularly like the Jalapeo
Cheddar. Available in select supermarkets. Visit
2. Calbee potato chips are veritably a cult favorite http://cheftonybrands.com for list of kiosks
in Japan. Thanks to their partnership with Jack N
Jill, they are now available locally. Although we 5. )XOO RI DYRU DQG H[WUD JDUOLFN\ WKLV VWDSOH
are intrigued with the Wasabi variant, we also like pasalubong from the north, the Original Ilocos
Calbee Pizza Potato Flavored Potato Chips with Chichacorn is easier on our teeth than its more
melted cheese. Available in leading supermarkets commercial supermarket versions. In Metro Manila,
available in Victorinos Restaurant, 11th Jamboree
3. Who knew one could eat potato chips without the Street corner Scout Rallos, Laging Handa, Quezon City
guilt? As its gluten-free, non-GMO, with no MSG and

8 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

TASTINGS | media

Page Turners
Food lit for the gourmet in you
El Celler de Can Roca (signed) Milk Pigs and Violet Hikay: The Culinary
the Roca Brothers Librooks, 2013 Gold (signed) Heritage of Cebu
At 500 pages and weighing a whopping Bryan Koh Center for Kapampangan Louella Theresa Eslao-Alix
6.6 pounds, this book tells the 25-year Studies, Holy Angel University, 2014 University of San Carlos Press, 2014
history of that magnificent family As a child, Bryan Koh, a Singaporean, Hikay means to cook a feast, or
restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca fell in love with the cooking of his just simply to cook. This cookbook
in Girona, Spain, which currently Filipino nannies. As an adult, he surveys the culinary landscape of
holds two Michelin stars and is No. traveled from Aparri to Zamboanga Cebu and traces the influences that

Photography by Pat Mateo

1 on the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants chronicling ingredients, recipes enriched its cuisine. It contains
2015. It contains insights into the and cuisines all over the country. quintessential Cebu recipes such as
cooking of the Roca brothers, their The result is this book, an authentic the singuba, tinuwa and kinilaw.
philosophy, techniques, values, snapshot of Pinoy cuisine from the
inspiration and creative process, with point of view of a foreigner, written
90 detailed recipes, some of which with a great deal of love, respect and
are virtually impossible to replicate in discipline. Its a journey of discovery
the home kitchen. Its the definitive for both writer and reader.
read into the avant-garde cuisine
of the 20th and 21st centuries.

Arzak Secrets
Juan Mari Arzak
Grub Street Publishing, 2015
This is the first glimpse into
the kitchen of Juan Mari
Arzak since he opened his
world-famous restaurant
in San Sebastian, Spain
in 1970. In these pages,
he shares recipes and
techniques for some of his
signature dishes. Arzaks
kitchen is a laboratory of
flavors, aromas and textures,
and this book helps us understand
the creative development and
innovations that lie behind
his exceptional food. Not a
book for home cooks, but a
must for anyone looking for
inspiration and ideas.

If you thirst for quality food literature, just browse through the (online)
shelves of The Kitchen Bookstore. This independent online bookstore
specializes in books, magazines, periodicals and other printed material
on culinary culture and lifestyle, food and wine. They even carry limited
editions, certain titles no longer in print, and for a lucky few, books signed
by the authors. Since theyre an online purveyor, there is no physical
shop where you can drop by and browse, but all the books you order will
be delivered straight to your doorstep. And like the small, independent
booksellers in Europe, owner Rajiv Sadwani is happy to provide book
suggestions. www.thekitchenbookstore.com

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 9

TASTING | finds

Get a Taste
of Korean-style Pizza
Korean-style pizza is wacky and
wonderful, at least if the experience
is at Mr. Pizza, wich opened four
outlets in Manila and Cebu. The
concept is D.I.Y. Choose a crust, which
mousse. Choose your toppings:
for instance, bacon, steak, buttery
potatoes. Have it baked and voila!
There are also savory dishes like
pastas and fried chicken, and a line
of ready-made pizzas if you dont feel
like inventing your own. Branches at
Greenbelt 3, The Block SM North EDSA,
Robinsons Place Manila, SM Cebu

Ichiba, the First Japanese Seafood New French Chef at Old Manila
Market in the Philippines Experience the sorcery of French-style dining at The Peninsulas iconic dining outlet,
Brought to us by CEO Bryan Tiu, founder Old Manila, where Bertrand Charles has been installed as the new chef de cuisine.
Philippines. Inspired by the famous Tsukiji Dungeness Crab with Compressed Radish, Caviar and Honey; Braised Duck Ravioli; and
Market, the delights from gastronomic for dessert, Malagos Chocolate, Pinipig, Carabao Milk Ice Cream. For reservations, call
Kuromon, the diversity of seafood from (02) 887-2888
Kyushu, and the expansive seafood and
way you see and experience Japanese
dining. There are several things that set
Ichiba apart: the live aquarium display,
housing up to 600 kilos of live seafood,
which guests can select from, to be cooked
for them dampa-stye (in the Japanese way,
the country, where one may order grilled
tender Wagyu beef yakitori, tokayaki, gyoza,
Pan-seared Foie Gras
tempura, ramen, and donburi to go with Graviax Chef Bertrand Charles ZLWK<HOORZQ7XQD
Newport Mall, Resorts World Manila, Pasay,
Sous Vide at the Hyatt Caf Craving for steak with impossibly tender, melt-in-
your-mouth texture? Or eggs poached to the perfect custard-like delicacy? Head
over to the Hyatt Caf at City of Dreams Manila where they have leveled up their
game by incorporating sous vide cooking, a technique that is both simple yet yields
such exactingly perfect results.The technique simply seals the ingredients in a bag,
and holds at a target temperature until the desired result is achieved. Serve it at peak
condition.Taste it to see what we mean. For reservations, call (02) 691-1234

Our Local jams

Made using low-glycemic coconut
nectar sweeteners, Pili & Pino Guyabano,
Jackfruit and Mango Preserves are healthy
and celebrate our local ingredients.
Available at SM Kultura

10 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


A Very Cheesy Spread What is real

cheese spread? It should be made with
ingredients or coloring, and with a
deliciously milky, creamy taste. Denmark- Fresh Frozen Fruit Strawberries,
EDVHG$UOD)RRGVGLGMXVWWKDWZLWK$UOD peaches, oranges, kiwi and pineapples are
Cheesy Spread made with almost 90% no longer at the mercy of the seasons. Now
fresh cows milk, a natural source of you can get fruit at its peak condition right
FDOFLXPDQGYLWDPLQ$6LPSO\VSUHDGLWRQ off the supermarket shelves. Nice Fruit
toast or try Chefs Gino Gonzalez and China by Del Monte uses patented technology
&RMXDQJFRVUHFLSHVXVLQJ$UOD&KHHV\ to preserve fruit, vegetables in prime The Perfect Roast
Spread to make Mac n Cheese, Cheesecake ripeness, keeping them at peak condition Sourced from Philippine farmers and
and Pandenini. Purchase P500 worth of for up to three years while retaining partners around the globe, Kickstart coffee
$UOD )RRG SURGXFWV DQG \RX FDQ ZLQ D nutrients, structure and their organlopetic is inspired by independent roasters and
trip to Denmark! Contest runs until June characteristics. Its an easy choice for the third wave coffee cultures of Seattle,
30, 2016. Visit www.arla.ph for details. restaurateurs, chefs and caterers, without Portland and San Francisco, and was
Arla Cheesy Spread available in leading VDFULFLQJ TXDOLW\ DQG WDVWH Visit www. created for coffee drinkers searching for the
supermarkets. nicecoldsystem.com perfect roast. Available at SM Kultura


Cordier Club Elite wines

from Bordeaux
Bordeaux-based wine seller Cordier
Mestrezat Grands Crus recently presented
its Cordier Club Elite collection of Grand
The number one packaged coconut water dinner by French chef Paul Cottanceau-
brand in the worldmade only with Pocard. Pairing beautifully with his
SXUH FRFRQXW ZDWHU QHYHU IURP DUWLFLDO dishes were Chteau La Rousselire Fruit Juices for Summer
concentraterecently introduced a new 2010, Le Clotre de Grand-Puy Ducasse Only available this summer are the new
variant,Vita Coco Natural Coconut Water 2010, La Croix de Boyd Cantenac 2010, a OLPLWHGHGLWLRQDYRUVRI'HO0RQWH-XLFH
with Pineapple. Low calorie and fat-free, PDJQLFHQW &KWHDX 3RXJHW  DQG DQ Drinks, namely Del Monte Pineapple
its the perfect summer drink, loaded with intense Chteau de Candale 2010. 6RWHO Pomelo and Pineapple Lychee.Theyre
potassium, electrolytes, vitamin C, and Philippine Plaza, (02) 551-5555. Cordier Club made with real fruit juice, and contain 100%
naturally occurring oxidants. Available in Elite wines courtesy of AWC, (02) 817-1417, of your daily vitamin C needs. Available in
leading supermarkets nationwide DZFQHZLQHFRP leading supermarkets nationwide

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 11

TASTINGS | travel

Asias Best Tables

What are the best places
to eat in Asia? Look no
further than Asias 50 Best
Restaurants 2016 for its
picks of the most impressive
restaurants in Asia

isiting an Asian

V country and want to

know wheres the best
table in town? Check
Photos: Amber courtesy of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong; Gallery Vask by Norman Lleses; Locavore by Rupert Singleton; Mingles

out Asias 50 Best

Restaurants 2016, sponsored
by S.Pellegrino & Acqua
Panna, for The Best Restaurant
in eleven Asian countries.
Numbered here according to
their standing in the 50 Best
list, these restaurants are not to
courtesy of La Main magazine; Ministry of Crab by Dharshan Munidasa, Ishan Raban; Restaurant Andr by Edmond Ho

be missed!

Gaggan, Thailand

1 Asias Best Restaurant

for a second year in
a row, Gaggan continues
to offer progressive Indian
cuisine with a dose of wit
in such dishes as Who
Killed the Goat? (lamb
chops cooked sous vide)
and I Want My Curry!
(crab curry served in tiffin
pots). A culinary adventure
to remember. 68/1 Soi
Langsuan, Ploenchit Road,
Lumpini, Bangkok, Thailand,

Narisawa, Japan Andr, Singapore Amber, Hong Kong, Indian Accent at

2 I think restaurant
is food, food is
ingredient, ingredient is
3 Chef Andr Chiang
brings together
disparate elements from
4 China
Amber is
unapologetically French, yet
9 the Manor, India
At the helm of Indias
best restaurant is celebrity
from nature, Chef Yoshihiro his diverse background still manages to introduce chef Manish Mehrotra, a
Narisawa explains what having lived in Taiwan, a subtle Asian presence. Its pioneer of modern Indian
he calls an innovative France, Singaporeto create signature dish, Hokkaido cuisine. Ingredients like
satoyama cuisine rooted in a tasting menu around the sea urchin set in lobster duck, foie gras, tacos, even
nature. His dishes celebrate theme of octaphilosophy, gele with caviar and Camembert find their way
seasonality and sustainability, a set of eight principles that cauliflower, is arguably the into his menu. A standout
so fittingly epitomized by exemplify the restaurants most Instagrammed dish in is Meetha Achaar with
his signature Satoyama very essence: unique, pure, Hong Kong. The extensive Canadian spare ribs, sun
Scenery, a beautiful vegetable texture, memory, salt, south, 1,100-bottle strong wine dried mango and toasted
composition made to artisan and terroir. 41 Bukit cellar is equally impressive. kalonji (black cumin)
resemble the forest floor. Pasoh Road, Singapore, 7/F, The Landmark seeds. 77 Friends Colony
Minami Ayoyama 2-6-15, restaurantandre.com Mandarin Oriental, 5 Queens (West), New Delhi, India,
Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan, Road, Central, Hong Kong, indianaccent.com
www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com www.amberhongkong.com

12 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2




Gallery Vask,

39 Philippines
The only
Philippine restaurant on this
years list, Gallery Vask offers
tasting menus that explore
modern ways of using the
countrys bounty, many
of these ingredients still
Ministry of unknown. For example, Chef

25 Crab, Sri
Sri Lankas best restaurant
Chele Gonzalez pairs adlai
grains with fermented shrimp
paste or bagoong, serving it
celebrates its native crab with with sea urchin and pigeon.
25 amazing varietychili crab, 5/F Clipp Center, 11th Avenue
pepper crab, Sri Lankan crab corner 39th Street, Bonifacio 49
curryto satisfy every taste. Global City, Taguig City,
Also popular are its non-crab galleryvask.com
dishes like claypot prawn
curry and chicken fried rice. Cuisine Wat
At its helm is self-taught chef
Dharshan Munidasa who also
owns Japanese restaurant
43 Damnak,
Set in a traditional wooden
Nihonbashi, No. 47 on house in Siem Reap (home of in the immediate environs.
this years list. Old Dutch Angkor Wat), this restaurant Only the chef, Dutch-born
Hospital, Colombo, Sri Lanka, melds the French with the Eelke Plasmeijer, is imported.
www.ministryofcrab.com traditional Khmer, using The menu hovers between
indigenous ingredients European and Indonesian
Mingles, South Le Mot, like kuy fruits and water influences, with its signature

15 Korea
Voted Best
Restaurant in Korea as well as
30 Taiwan
The restaurant
of Asias Best Female Chef
lily stems. Delicacies
include boneless frog legs
with Cambodian green
dish revolving around a
tomato theme: a Bloody
Mary sorbet, cherry tomato,
Highest New Entry, Mingles 2014, Lanshu Chen, offers a giant eggplant salad and sea salt infused with celery
has been winning raves since balanced French cuisine barbecued beef shank soup leaves and a hot tomato
it opened in 2014. Young chef carefully honed during with burnt green papaya. consomm. Jalan Dewi Sita,
Mingoo Kang brings Western her stint in France. To this, Wat Damnak Village, Sala Ubud, Bali, locavore.co.id
touches to Korean food. For she adds subtle Taiwanese Kamreuk Commune, Siem
example, his Jang Trio elements like in her signature Reap, Cambodia, www. Turn to page 50 for more on
dessert includes Doen-Jang dish of blaze mushrooms, cuisinewatdamnak.com Asias 50 Best Restaurants
crme brule, Gan-Jang pican veal sweetbread, dried 2016, sponsored by
and Gochu-Jang grains and tangerine rind, chestnut and Locavore, S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna.
vanilla ice cream. Gangnam-
gu, Nonhyun-dong 94-9, 1st
floor, Seoul, South Korea,
rice essence. 59 Cunzhong
Street, West District,
Taichung City, Taiwan, www.
49 Indonesia
The name says it
all. The menu celebrates the
For the complete list of Asias
50 Best Restaurants 2016,
visit www.theworlds50best.
www.restaurant-mingles.com lemout.com freshest produce it can find com/asia

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 13

TASTINGS | media

Chef Tatung Sarthous first book, Philippine

Cookery: From Heart to Platter is a love letter
in ten chapters, addressed to his native cuisine.
e heart
The result of over ten years worth of research,
the book is structured into sections that explore
Filipino cooking by delving into its cooking
methods, ingredients and traditional kitchen tools.
Chef Tatungs approach to food is informed by
his experience as a chef, but his writing is very
personal as he shares memories, anecdotes and
lessons in and out of the kitchen. What shines
through is his sincere love for the cuisine of his
homeland. With photography by Paulo Valenzuela
and designed by award-winning book designer Ige
Ramos, its a beautiful read even for people who are
helpless in the kitchen.

Published by ABS-CBN Publishing, Inc. Available

at National Bookstore and Fully Booked, Php 595

Surfs up with JP Anglo
Chef JP Anglo explores some of the hottest surf
spots in the Philippines and immerses himself in
Booky Manila
By now, restaurant reservation and directory
their regional food culture in his new TV series, apps are nothing new, but we love Booky
Hungry with Chef JP. Inspired by island living and 0DQLODEHFDXVHLWLVVSHFLFDOO\GHVLJQHGWR
WKHORFDODYRUVHDFKHSLVRGHVHHVKLPSUHSDULQJ suit the needs of Manileos. For example, the
honest to goodness food and making new friends DSSGRHVQWQHHG:LVRLWZRUNVHYHQZKHQ
along the way. Hungry to learn, both in the kitchen Internet access is agonizingly slow or even
sharing his culinary expertise. make restaurant reservations via
Showing on Sundays. 7:30 PM at CNN Philippines. the app. Next on the list? A review
system, so you can keep score of
your favorite places to eat.
Download from iTunes

14 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Mindanao Beef Kulma
Serves 6

2 knobs ginger,
pounded into a paste

Explore the spice-laden, coconut-rich
6 cloves garlic,
pounded into a paste
6 siling labuyo (birds eye
chilies), pounded into a
cuisine of our Muslim neighbors 2 stalks lemongrass,
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO pounded
Styling by ABY NACHURA | Props Styling by ATHENA FREGILLANA 2 tablespoons turmeric
hat is Moro cuisine? Most is similar to beef curry but with a much 1 kilo beef brisket,

W people living outside of

Mindanao have never
heard of or tasted this
fascinating, flavorful
cuisine. Unlike Luzon and the Visayas,
Mindanao was never conquered by the
Spaniards. Because of this, many aspects
richer taste. Kulma may have been
derived from the Indian-Southeast Asian
dish called korma made with braised
meat and vegetables in a spiced sauce.
Korma was likely brought to Mindanao
from India via the barter trade. But unlike
kulma, korma doesnt use coconut.
salt and pepper, to taste
4 onions, julienned
6 shallots, julienned
water, enough to cover meat
1/4 cup peanut butter
1 cup grated coconut,
of Mindanao culture and cuisine are In Muslim Mindanao, there are toasted to the color
different from those of Luzon and the many dishes traditionally cooked for of coconut husks or
Visayas. sultans and other high-ranking people. as dark as roasted coffee
Coconut is an important component But with sultanates gradually dying  FXSbkakang gata (coconut
of Moro cooking, as it is a bountiful out, these dishes are no longer cooked cream)
resource in the region. This recipe for regularly, and are now only known to a 1 carrot, cut into big cubes
Beef Kulma, which is of Tausug origin, few heritage chefs. 2 potatoes, cut into big
1 bell pepper, sliced
1/2 inch long

1. Add pounded ginger,

garlic, chilies, lemongrass
and turmeric powder to the
beef. Season with salt and
pepper. Marinate for 2 hours
2. Saut onions and shallots
until caramelized. Add beef
then add water, just enough
to cover the meat. Cook over
low heat until almost tender,
about 1 1/2 hours. Add more
water, if needed, so the dish
does not dry up, but not too
much to render the kulma
3. Add peanut butter, toasted
coconut and kakang gata.
Simmer for a few minutes
before adding the carrot,
potatoes and bell pepper.
Cook until vegetables are
soft and sauce thickens.
Season with salt and pepper.
with a little sugar or lemon
4. Transfer kulma to a
serving plate and garnish
with toasted coconut and
fried shallots. Serve warm.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 15

Learn the real
facts behind this
controversial fat
Props styling by ATHENA FREGILLANA

heres a lot of information available

T online about coconut oil and its

health benefits. There are reports,
for example, that it contains a
different kind of fat that our bodies
do not store, thus making it a potentially
healthy oil. But, is there truth to this
Search for coconut oil on the USDA
National Nutrient Database website
and youll find that the bulk of its
calories come from saturated fat, with
zero carbohydrates and little to zero
vitamins and minerals. Saturated fat is not
considered healthy as it has been linked One tablespoon contains 121 calories.
to heart disease and stroke. Coconut oil
actually contains more saturated fat than Protein 0 grams
lard, in contrast to olive oil which only has Fat 13.47 grams
Saturated fat 11.217 grams
14% of its calories coming from saturated Monounsaturated fat 0.861 grams
fat. It is difficult to reconcile these facts Polyunsaturated fat 0.231 grams
with the purported health benefits of coconut oil, including Trans fat 0.004 grams
claims that it aids in weight loss despite its high calorie count. Carbohydrates 0 grams
Proponents of coconut oil claim that its medium chain Fiber 0 grams
Sugar 0 grams
fatty acids helps improve glucose levels without raising
bad cholesterol in the body. However, no long-term studies Source: USDA National Nutrient Database
have been conducted to prove this claim. There are also
no satisfactory studies to show that using coconut oil helps
reduce the risk of diabetes or lowers blood sugar among you read the label and avoid those products that are partially
diabetics. In fact, organizations like the American Heart hydrogenated as they may contain transfats that are harmful
Association and the USDA continue to lobby against the use to your health.
of coconut oil.
With coconuts prevalent in the Philippines, its no According to Dr. Gerry Tan, replacing calories from saturated fat with
surprise that we use it in much of our cooking. If you plan calories from simple sugars like rice or bread wont make you any healthier.
Instead, replace the saturated fat from coconut oil with unsaturated fat
to use coconut oil, I strongly advise choosing virgin coconut IURP QXWV DQG ROLYH RLO ZKLFK FDQ GHQLWHO\ PDNH D GLIIHUHQFH LQ \RXU
oil that has been extracted from the fruit of a fresh mature health. The author is a Mayo Clinic-trained endocrinologist based in Cebu.
coconut without high temperatures or chemicals. Make sure Visit his website at www.docgerrytan.com

16 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

The classic banana cream
pie gets a Filipino makeover
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO
Styling by ABY NACHURA
Props styling by ATHENA FREGILLANA

ne of my all-time favorite treats is all-American banana

O cream pie. The irony of this wonderful dessert is that

bananas are a tropical fruit, and the Philippines is one
of the worlds top three banana exporters to America
and Europe, raking in annual sales of US$ 1.1 billion!
So, despite this humble pies Western origins, I am adopting
this classic masterpiece as something thats truly Filipino by
infusing it with another iconic local staplecoconut!
The combination of banana and coconut creates flavor
that explodes in the mouth. The amazing contrast of textures
brought about by the crisp, flaky crust, the creamy custard
juxtaposed with the firm bite of the banana, and the billowy
whipped cream sprinkled with toasted coconut flakes makes
this a refreshing dessert for both young and old alike.

Banana-Coconut well. Add unsalted butter confectioners sugar and 1. Place coconut milk in a
Cream Pie and stir with a silicone spoon pure vanilla extract in a saucepan and bring to a
Serves 8 until mixture forms a dough. chilled mixer bowl. Using the simmer over low heat.
3. Press dough into the ZLUH ZKLS DWWDFKPHQW ZKLS 2. Combine caster sugar and
  FXSV DOOSXUSRVH RXU bottom and up the sides of a mixture on medium speed to cornstarch in a mixing bowl
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon 9 x 1 1/2-inch deep pie pan. the stiff peak stage. and mix well. Add egg yolks
caster sugar Refrigerate for 30 minutes. 8. Pile the cream on top of and whisk until blended.
 WHDVSRRQ QH VHD VDOW 4. Bake pie crust in WKH SLH VSUHDGLQJ LW WR WKH 3. Temper the egg yolk
1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons preheated oven for 25 to edges of the pie. Use a spoon mixture by slowly whisking
unsalted butter, melted  PLQXWHV RU XQWLO FUXVW LV to create swirls and peaks on in the hot coconut milk.
5 large lakatan or Cavendish a deep golden brown and the cream. Return mixture to the
bananas, sliced 1/4-inch UP WR WKH WRXFK 5HPRYH 9. Sprinkle top of the pie saucepan and cook over low
 FXS PRLVW FRFRQXW DNHV completely. Refrigerate pie until ready to until custard thickens.
lightly toasted, for topping 5. 2QFH FUXVW LV FRROHG serve. Continue cooking the custard
arrange banana slices in the IRU DQRWKHU PLQXWH ZKLVNLQJ
SWEETENED WHIPPED bottom of the baked crust. COCONUT CUSTARD continuously.
CREAM: Top with the coconut custard FILLING: 4. Remove saucepan from
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping OOLQJ UHFLSH EHORZ  /HYHO 2 1/2 cups good quality the heat and quickly whisk
cream (36% milkfat), very WKH OOLQJ RQ WRS canned coconut milk in the butter and vanilla
cold 6. Place a sheet of plastic 1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons extract.
1/3 cup sifted confectioners wrap on the surface of the caster sugar
sugar FXVWDUG OOLQJ WR SUHYHQW 1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla a skin from forming. cornstarch To learn more of Chef Joeys
extract Refrigerate pie for at least 7 medium egg yolks pastry secrets, visit Joey Prats
4 hours to allow the custard 1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut School of Baking and Pastry Arts
1. Preheat oven to 350F. to set. into cubes on Facebook for his schedule of
2. &RPELQH DOOSXUSRVH RXU 7. To make the sweetened 3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla lifestyle cooking and baking classes
FDVWHU VXJDU DQG QH VHD VDOW ZKLSSHG FUHDP FRPELQH extract and his three-month Fundamentals

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 17

No, theyre not nuts!
These locally grown
seeds will turn snowy
meringue into a
crunchy delight
Photography by

mong locally-grown

A nuts, cashews are

a favorite, readily
available in groceries
and markets, and
with many possible culinary
applications. However, a
cashew is actually not a true
nut, since its seed grows
outside of the cashew apple.
The seed is not the only part
of the cashew that can be
used. The fruit is fermented
into liquor, and the oil from
the shell of the seed is used
both as a solvent and as a
Native to Brazil, cashews
are now cultivated in whites and cream of tartar
southern India, Vietnam and XQWLO XII\ *UDGXDOO\ DGG
in some regions of Africa. In the granulated sugar and
the Philippines, cashews are EHDW XQWLO VWLII *HQWO\ IROG
grown in Palawan, Guimaras, in the chopped cashews.
Bukidnon, Cagayan de Oro, 3. Drop 1 1/2-inch mounds
Davao Oriental and South had to take turns spinning Cashew Clouds of the nut meringue on
Cotabato. the handle of a rotary Makes 45 to 50 pieces the prepared baking trays,
In this recipe, I have eggbeater. It probably took about 2 to 3 inches apart.
added some cashews as us half an hour to transform 4 egg whites Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or
an extra treat to the very glossy egg whites into the 1/2 teaspoon cream until light golden.
first recipe for meringue fluffy, cloudlike appearance of tartar 4. Remove from oven and
(merengue in the vernacular) expected of perfectly- 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar cool completely. Store
that I learned. I was nine whipped meringue! At the 1 1/4 cups coarsely chopped immediately in an airtight
years old when my moms time, the process seemed so cashews container.
cousin, Tia Mameng Mejia- tedious, but the result was
Rodriguez, taught me and certainly well worth the 1. Preheat oven to 275F.
my cousins, May and Ditas, effort. The baked clouds Line 2 to 3 baking trays
Chef Jill is a culinary consultant, a
how to beat egg whites came out so crunchy on the with parchment paper or lead trainor for the United States
properly without the benefit outside but gooey on the aluminum foil. Set aside. Department of Agriculture and the
of an electric mixer. We all inside. 2. In a clean bowl, beat egg owner of Delize Cakes and Pastries.

18 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Dining Out

A Grand Indian Experience at
The Royal Indian Curry House

t felt as though we were regional cuisines in India, and and bell peppers; Frankies or most Filipinos generally

I eating in the fancy house of a

wealthy Indian friend. With
its high vaulted ceilings,
plush purple chairs and
touches of gold everywhere,
not to mention its four
additional floors (private
even some parts of the Middle
East. Executive chef Surat
Rana is at the helm. Originally
from New Delhi, he cooked
for six years in Queens at
Bollywood in Greenbelt,
before putting up The Royal
thin bread filled with ground
chicken, melty cheese, egg
omelet and cilantro; Metki
Chicken cooked in a palayok,
with a soft-boiled egg; Puri
Badji or puffy bread (flat
bread thats been deep-fried),
cannot take too much heat.
(But you can always ask him
to make it spicier, or less so,
according to your taste.) Still,
one can and should come
here for a right and proper
introduction to Indian cuisine.
function rooms, a bar with a Indian Curry House with his to be eaten with potatoes, Everything we had was homey
jeepney in the middle, and a partners in October 2015. chicken and tomatoes in and delicious, so much so that
space to play billiards at the We like the lighter gravy; and finally, creamy we found ourselves staggering
top), it wouldve been more chicken and vegetarian Afghan Chicken marinated away at the end of the meal,
imposing had the food not items on this menu, most of in heavy cream, yogurt and our appetites and spirits
been so unpretentious, served which are cooked in thick, cashew nuts for four hours, satiated, and our hearts and
family-style in quantities large unctuous masala sauce, with then slowly cooked in a bellies full.
enough to feed a crowd. The lots of strong Indian spices tandoori oven.
Royal Indian Curry Houses (cinnamon, coriander, cumin, Authentic Indian? Perhaps 5345 General Luna Street,
sprawling 17-page menu is ginger, black pepper). These not completely, as Chef Surat Poblacion, Makati. (02) 246
grandiose too, in its attempt to include Veggie Kadai Masala, has had to tone down the 9096. Facebook Royal-Indian-
capture what seems like all the with soya meat, tomatoes spiciness of his dishes, since Curry-House


from top left): traditional Veggie Kadai

20 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


mozzarella and wild arugula.

A must-order is Portuguese-

A Mediterranean Medley at inspired piri-piri chicken

with its chili-intense sauce
and tangy pickled onion

Tapenade salad to counter the spiciness.

Meat lovers can enjoy
grilled U.S. Angus rib eye
steak crusted with porcini
for added depth of flavor.
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA | Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO Dessert is kept simple: a light
olive oil cake with refreshing
hen we think of diners with its high ceilings, spectacular la carte menu basil ice cream, or the hotels

W Mediterranean
food, we
think of pizza
margarita perhaps, or paella
a la Valenciana, with olive oil
and tomatoes aplenty. But in
tall windows and spacious
interiors. Named after the
famous Provenal olive
spread, Tapenade isnt your
usual hotel caf. Instead
of the typical buffet set-
up, Tapenade innovates
that executive chef Luis
Chikiamco has in store for
Chef Luis has made
Tapenade his playground
for Mediterranean flavors,
whether its stone-baked
signature Mediterranean
chocolate marquise.
Tapenade could have
gotten by as a standard
hotel caf that serves the
usual roster of international
dishes. Instead, it decides
truth, theres so much more with what it calls its Salad brick oven pizzas, slow- to delve deep into a rich
to the cuisines of the regions Room. There, youll find cooked tagines from culinary region to offer a
bordering the Mediterranean a full array of housemade Morocco, fresh pasta dishes, wonderfully appetizing,
SeaItaly, France, Spain, breads, spreads, cheeses, or grilled meats and seafood. heart-healthy range of dishes.
Greece, Turkey, North cold cuts, plus prepared and The menu excites with its At Tapenade, you can travel
Africa, the Middle Eastand do-it-yourself salads. Make many novel takes on old the length and breadth of the
at Restaurant Tapenade, sure to come early for the favorites. Ravioli is cooked Mediterranean, one plate at a
diners get a chance to try all-you-can-eat fresh oysters. with slow-braised short ribs. time.
them all. If youre opting for a light A cheese dip starter involves
Tapenade sits beside and healthy meal, youll be stone-baked feta cheese G/F Discovery Primea 6749
the lobby of the ultra plush more than happy with the infused with Greek brandy. Ayala Avenue, Makati City,
Discovery Primea along offerings at the Salad Room. There is rotolo, pizza rolled Tel. (02) 955-8888, www.
Ayala Avenue, beckoning But you may miss out on the up with salami piccante, discoveryhotels-resorts.com

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 21


MEXICANA (Clockwise
sidings; Elote or
Mexican street corn;

New Mexican Eats at (or bonito flakes) which lends a certain

umami to the dish. The Carne Asada

Taqueria 101
is still essentially meat-centric, but
the difference lies in the condiments
that accompany the seared hangar
steak: chimichurri, mango mayonnaise
and a smooth (not chunky) avocado
hen we think of Mexican vegetarian options on the menu. aioli. Other innovations include the

W food, tacos and burritos

immediately come to mind,
usually filled with heaps
of carne asada or oxtail,
chili peppers, salsa and guacamole
certainly not the lightest of cuisines.
Enter the newly opened Taqueria 101
And what are these options? They
include light yet flavorful Smoked
Salmon and Cream Cheese Tacos,
and one of our personal favorites, the
completely vegan Zucchini Flower
and Mushroom Tlayuda (open-
faced quesadilla). Pleasantly acidic
Shawarma Rice Burrito with fall-off-
the-bone beef braised for five hours,
and filled with garlic rice, shawarma
sauce, raw onions and tomatoes.
Arguably the best thing on the menu is
the Mexican Lasagna, which uses thin
tortillas instead of pasta sheets, layered
in Paraaque, by Chef Mikel Zaguirre and creamy, the latter has zucchini with Angus beef picadillo, shiitake
of Locavore fame. Housed between flowers and balsamic cream, shiitake mushrooms, gratinated with mozzarella
a laundromat and a hair salon, in a mushrooms, melted mozzarella and and two different cheddars, and topped
small space which seats only 30 people, quezo, mango pico de gallo, served on a with crushed tricolor chipscrunchy,
this family-run restaurant (with his hard or soft taco. One would think that gooey all-around goodness. For dessert,
father in the kitchen with him, while this particular dish may be a little too theres the Churro-Popcorn (piped-out
his mom mans the till) has warm and light, but its actually quite substantial, blobs of choux pastry thats been frozen
cozy interiors, and bright, colorful filling enough to be eaten on its own. before being deep-fried, then tossed in
murals pronouncing Amigos, Let Los Chef Mikel turns out excellent melted butter and cinnamon sugar), to
Buenos Tiempos! (Friends, Lets Have versions of more traditional Mexican be dipped in the housemade dulce de
A Good Time). Taqueria 101 has all favorites, all made with slight variations. leche and thick chocolate sauce.
the classic elements of the down-and- The Elote, a staple street food in
dirty Mexican food that we all love, Mexico, is made of Japanese sweet corn 101 Doa Soledad Avenue, Barangay
but Chef Mikel has also made the food spread with chipotle mayo, sprinkled Don Bosco, Better Living Village,
lighter and female-friendly, with square with grated Parmesan and katsobushi Paraaque City, (0917) 722-5225

22 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Fine Korean Dining at Kiwa

s you first enter manager Cecille Chang, Or try the Saenggalbi and side dishes. These

A Kiwa Korean Grill,

you realize that this
is not your usual
Korean restaurant.
With its tasteful wood
furnishings, high ceilings and
breathtaking view of Manila
Kiwas menu favors a clean
palate and balanced flavors,
just like in Korea. Credit is
due to the Korean chefs in
the kitchen who work with
ingredients imported from
Korea, except for the beef,
(premium short ribs without
marination), Bulgogi (beef
and mushroom marinated
in special soy sauce),
Samgyupsal (pork belly)
or Dwaeji-Galbi (barbecue
pork ribs). The best way to
could include hot Korean
porridge and cold kimchi
soup, assorted sashimi,
smoked salmon salad, chap
chae glass noodles, a lovely
sweet pumpkin salad, and
Jeon or Korean-style savory
Bay, it exudes a certain which is sourced from Japan experience these meats is to pancakes, plus your choice
formal luxury that sets it and the United States. Even have them grilled right at of dessert. Theres more than
apart from the more casual the furnishings, tableware, your table. With state-of- enough to get your fill.
Korean eateries in town. tableside grills, down to the the-art tabletop grills with Having opened only
Brought to the Philippines charcoal, are flown in from a powerful exhaust system this February, theres still
by David Shim of Solaire Korea. Only the fresh flowers hidden below the restaurant much to look forward to at
Korea, Kiwa fits right in with are locally sourced. floor, theres no chance of Kiwa Korean Grillmore
the plush setting of Solaire To get a good sense of smoke or odors filling the set menus, an extensive
Resort & Casino, where it what Kiwa has to offer, room. You can also choose wine and soju list, and an
serves a growing Korean its best to choose an to have the meat grilled at an outdoor bar offering Mot
clientele, casino patrons and all-inclusive set, like the adjacent table. & Chandon champagne and
gourmets who come for a Yangnyumgalbi composed Aside from the succulent Johnnie Walker whiskey with
taste of its all-Korean menu. of beef ribs seasoned with grilled meat, you get a the spectacular Manila Bay
According to general special sweet soy sauce. cornucopia of appetizers sunset as a backdrop. With its
authentic Korean menu, plus
these new additions, theres
5(),1(' ',1,1* no excuse not to visit Kiwa
(Clockwise from for a fine Korean dining
sleek and serene experience.
space; grilling at
WKH WDEOH VZHHW Solaire Resort & Casino, 1
interiors designed Aseana Avenue, Paranaque
E\ D .RUHDQ UP City, (02) 888-8888, www.
Korean bibimbap

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 23


Casual French-
American Fare at
Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO

ts hard to find a more three days, served with

I charming nook than Roux,

a tiny French-American
bistro on the second floor of
Greenbelt 3. The interiors
are dressed up in the style of
Provenal caf-meets-New
York bistro, with soft lighting
brandied prunes on top of
freshly baked crisp flatbread.
In his pantry, French cheeses
sit beside chocolates from
Davao, mushrooms from
Laguna, and tuna from Davao
and General Santos.
and comfortable seatsthe Standouts on the menu
perfect ambiance in which to include Chicken Liver
enjoy the food of Chef Joseph Mousse served with crostini
Margate. Roux is that trendy and housemade mango jam,
dining hybrid, the fast casual, a perfect trio of sweet-salty-
chef-driven restauranta fatty. The Duck Confit is
label that immediately raises served with a side of mung
ones expectations of a unique beans and roasted shallots.
dining experience with food Tender Beef Bourgignon
that reflects the chefs passion is a masterpiece with an
and innovation. extremely slow-cooked
Chef Josephs bio is brown roux thats bursting
certainly impressive. A with flavor. His signature
graduate of the California Spaghetti with Smoked
Culinary Academy in San Bacon and Pickled Peppers is
Francisco, he has put in time a dish bold with the flavors so
at such impressive restaurants appealing to Filipinos. When
as Jardinire in San Francisco, asked about the presence
Eleven Madison Park in New of so much spaghetti on the
York, Lark in Seattle, and the menu (he serves seven kinds),
Michelin-starred LAmaranth he shrugs, Even in France,
in France. He was already they serve spaghetti in the
executive chef at the F&B bistros.
outlet of the Liberty Hotel The restaurant is named
in Boston when he made the for roux, the thickening agent
decision to come home to the made of flour and fat, thats
Philippines and be with his essential in French cooking.
family. He was immediately Its also a nod towards the
offered a place at Baits idea that the menu marries
restaurant. Roux is his first the art and science of
restaurant in Manila where cooking. Roux is simple to
he has free reign to give the make, but its also tricky. Its
menu his personal stamp. no surprise that Chef Josephs
The result is delightful. roux is perfectionso smooth
French specialties are made and velvety, its almost like
with local ingredients. butter.
Continental comfort food
is made in the classic way, 2/L Greenbelt 3, Makati City,
owing to the chef s training. (02) 729-0467
Attention is paid to slow &217,1(17$/ )/$,5 &ORFNZLVH IURP WRS
cooking and the use of &KLFNHQ /LYHU 0RXVVH ZLWK PDQJR MDP
seasonal ingredients. The 'XFN &RQW D )UHQFK FDI LQ 0DNDWL ZLWK
pork rillettes, for example, is HOHJDQFH &KHI -RVHSK 0DUJDWH 5RX[

24 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Adobong Humba
In Nora Dazas A Culinary Life, humba is also hong ba,
said to be of Chinese origin because of the use of
tausi (black beans) and the additional syllable ba,
which is Chinese for pork. But in Samar and Leyte,
humba is kasim (pork shoulder) cooked adobo-style
and to which tausi or tajure (fermented soybean
paste) are added. In this recipe, pata (pork hock)
fat turns to oil and the meat, a shade brown. It is
then marinated in calamansi juice, Datu Puti Oyster
Sauce, Datu Puti Soy Sauce and Datu Puti Vinegar.
Pineapple juice, brown sugar and star anise add
sweetness. Tausi is tossed in, along with saba banana
slices, banana blossoms and quail eggs. The result is
an indulgent, glistening, melt-in-your-mouth adobo.

Sign the petition to make
adobo the National Dish
of the Philippines.
Visit http://chn.

26 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

A vote for
Why this beloved dish is a national icon
Food styling by NANCY DIZON-EDRALIN | Set styling by ANGELIQUE CASTRO

dobo has been our de questioned, perhaps because of tweak the dish and put our

A facto Pambansang Ulam

for the longest time. It
is the dish we are best
known for, with entire
cookbooks devoted to it.
Author Monina A. Mercado
in her essay The Geography
its Spanish name. But the facts
are clear. Adobo has existed in
various forms (squid, kangkong,
game) even before Ferdinand
Magellan set foot in the
Philippines, wrote Fernandez
in her book Palayok. Because
own unique stamp on it. No
two adobos are exactly alike. Its
versatility has spawned countless
regional takes as the basic flavors
meld quite easily with a range of
ingredients: soy sauce, coconut
milk, certain fruits, other spices,
of the Filipino Stomach in the they saw its similarities to the depending on what is available
book The Culinary Culture of the Spanish-Mexican adobo, the or in season in a particular
Philippines, declared that adobo colonizers assigned it the same locale. Bicol has adobo sa gata,
must be our national dish. Adobo name. Food historian Raymond the Visayas has its humba,
Queen Nancy Reyes-Lumen Sokolov affirms, Filipino adobo Batangas has adobong baka, and
took her crusade on CNN stands by itself, fully formed and then theres adobong puti, adobo
Philippines in 2015, pointing out always distinct from the adobo sa pula, adobong dilaw and more.
how every Filipino is familiar dishes of Mexico and Spain. Still, to a Filipino, an adobo is
with adobo and knows how to Unlike Spain and Mexicos an adobo is an adobo. Whether
cook it, and that therefore it adobado (pork cooked in wine its adobong kangkong (swamp
deserves our vote. Food writer as the pickling ingredient), our cabbage) shared by a family in
Doreen G. Fernandez, in Tikim: adobo is cooked with vinegar, the countryside or garlicky CPA
Essays on Philippine Food and not wine, which gives it its (Chicken Pork Adobo) with its
Culture, observed that adobo was distinct flavor, acts as a meat unmistakable aroma wafting
called the national dish because tenderizer and a preservative, through any Filipino home
it is best known to readers of significant in places without across the globe, no other dish
cookbooks and to foreigners. refrigeration. Our adobo is the gives away our proudly Pinoy
Why, then, has official end result of braising or stewing selves so easily and openly by its
recognition eluded adobo? The any ingredientmeat, poultry, mere presence.
matter was even debated in seafood, vegetables, even game, So when pressed to choose a
Congress when House Bill 3926 mole crickets or balutin single dish thats worthy of the
was filed in 2014, naming it as vinegar and garlic. To this, soy coveted title Pambansang Ulam,
one of our national symbols. sauce, salt, bay leaf and black stand up for the one which
That bill, by the way, has not peppercorns can be added. unites us in our diversity while
yet been passed into law. This unfussy approach has bringing out the best in each of
Adobos origins are often challenged us to constantly us. Adobo deserves our vote.

Native placemat, Kultura Filipino, SM Megamall, Wooden spoon, SM Home, SM Megamall

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 27

Adobo sa Gata
While the more popular dish is adobong manok sa gata
(chicken adobo with coconut milk), liempo or pork belly
will do just as nicely. The trick is to cook and simmer the
meat in good quality suka like Datu Puti Vinegar, then
mix in Datu Puti Soy Sauce before adding gata (coconut
milk) and chili for spice. This is the way folks in Bicol and
Southern Luzon have made adobo their own. Honesto C.
General, in his book The Coconut Cookery of Bicol, writes that
D %LFRODQR ZRXOG UVW FKRRVH D laya (fully-mature coconut)
to grate using a lukadon (old-fashioned stationary grater),
then press the grated coconut for its velvety gata. It is
boil so that it turns creamy, and the pork, fork tender.


28 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Adobong Baka
Batangas is the home of high-quality beef, the star of
the achuete-spiced Batangas adobo. Proud Batanguea
Nora Daza shared her treasured Batangas adobo recipe
in her books, fearing that the dish would be forgotten
now that it is no longer cooked as often. Her recipe
calls for beef chunks, beef liver and heart, but it also
shows how you can creatively use bulalo. Beef shanks
the juices then transferred to a pot where the meat is
given a good dousing of Datu Puti Vinegar, Datu Puti Soy
Sauce, water, along with lots of garlic and spices. The
vinegar works to soften the meat while simmering for
one hour, then it is oven-baked till delicately tender.


FOOD |2016 Issue 2 29

Pininyahang Adobo
historian Felice Prudente Sta. Maria to the peaceful era just before World War II. This is Cerdo
Adobado con Pia (marinated pork in pineapple) that she said used pineapple juice in lieu of vinegar,
with brown sugar added for taste and coloring. The abundance of pineapples in our country
Bukidnon in Mindanao is hailed as The Pineapple Capital of the Worldallows us to use both the
fried and cooked further with the marinade. Pineapple tidbits brighten up this sweet adobo.


30 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Spicy Adobo Summer Vegetables
Summer ushers in a bountiful harvest of nutrient-packed vegetables
and a hankering for fresh, light fare. We cant go wrong with this
eggplant and cherry tomatoes bathed in a spicy adobo sauce.
Temperatures soar as a hot adobo sauce of Datu Puti Soy Sauce and
Datu Puti Vinegar is gently simmered and spiked with labuyo (red
chili peppers), then thickened with cornstarch slurry, making these
homespun sauted vegetables a little more special. Fresh shrimps
round up this dish and make this veggie adobo irresistibly red-hot.

Cooking pan, SM Home, SM Megamall

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 31

Adobong Humba Adobo sa Gata the oven at 300F until meat peppercorns
By Cecille Esperanza By Cecille Esperanza is tender, about 45 minutes. 1 tablespoon cornstarch
Serves 6 Serves 6 to 8 4. Transfer to a serving 2 tablespoons water
plate. Serve with warm 1/4 cup canola oil
6 slices pork hock (pata), 1  NLOR SRUN EHOO\ liempo), white rice, roasted garlic, 1 large white onion, cubed
1/2-inch thick cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes and grilled or roasted whole 400 grams shrimp,
1 cup water or as needed 1 head garlic, crushed cherry tomatoes. shell removed
oil for sauting 1 medium onion, sliced 1 cup okra, sliced
 UHG RQLRQ QHO\ FKRSSHG 1 tablespoon peppercorns Pininyahang Adobo 1 medium carrot,
5 cloves garlic, minced  ED\ OHDYHV By Nancy Dizon-Edralin cut into batonets
2 tablespoons 1 sprig fresh oregano or 1 Serves 4 to 6  VPDOO FDXOLRZHU
calamansi juice teaspoon dried oregano FXW LQWR RUHWV
 WDEOHVSRRQV R\VWHU VDXFH  FXS 'DWX 3XWL 6R\ 6DXFH 1 cup Datu Puti Vinegar 1/2 cup sitaw (long beans),
 FXS 'DWX 3XWL 6R\ 6DXFH 1/4 cup Datu Puti Vinegar 1 1/2 cups Datu Puti trimmed and sliced
3 tablespoons Datu Puti 1 1/2 cups vegetable or 6R\ 6DXFH 2 inches long
Vinegar chicken broth 1 tablespoon black 1 medium eggplant,
2 tablespoons brown 1 1/2 cups coconut cream peppercorns sliced 2 inches long
1 cup pineapple juice labuyo), optional 8 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup vegetable stock
5 pieces star anise spring onion slices, 1 teaspoon achuete or water, if needed
 ED\ OHDYHV for garnish (annatto) powder salt and ground black
1 teaspoon cracked 1 1/2 kilos whole chicken, pepper, to taste
black pepper 1. In a pot, combine cut into desired size
pinch of oregano powder pork belly, garlic, onion, 1/4 cup pineapple juice 1. For the adobo sauce, in a
SLQFK RI WK\PH SRZGHU peppercorns, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons cooking oil small saucepan, combine the
1/2 cup salted black beans oregano, Datu Puti Soy 1 cup red onion, large dice Datu Puti Soy Sauce, Datu
4 saba bananas, sliced Sauce, Datu Puti Vinegar 1 cup pineapple chunks, Puti Vinegar, chilies, garlic,
crosswise into 3, fried and broth. drained bay leaves and peppercorns.
1/2 cup dried banana 2. Bring to a boil, lower 1 cup red bell pepper, sliced Simmer for 2 to 4 minutes
blossoms heat. Simmer until meat cilantro, for garnish, and do not cover.
12 quail eggs, boiled is fork tender, about 1 1/2 optional 2. Mix the cornstarch and
hours. water in a small bowl.
1. In a pan, combine pork 3. Pour in coconut cream 1. In a bowl, mix Datu Puti 3. Add the cornstarch
and water. Cover and bring and add chilies, if using. Vinegar, Datu Puti Soy mixture to thicken
to a boil. Stir occasionally. Simmer uncovered for 5 Sauce, whole peppercorns, the adobo sauce. Stir
Drain pork from stock. minutes or until sauce bay leaves, garlic and continuously until it
2. In a heavy-bottomed pan, becomes creamy. achuete powder. Marinate thickens. Remove from heat.
heat oil, saut onion and 4. Transfer to a serving chicken in the mixture for Strain and set aside.
garlic until fragrant. Add bowl. Garnish with spring 30 minutes. 4. Heat oil in a skillet, add
pork, calamansi juice, oyster onions and serve with rice. 2. Transfer chicken to a remaining garlic and cook
sauce, Datu Puti Soy Sauce, skillet. Add marinade and XQWLO JROGHQ EURZQ 5HPRYH
Datu Puti Vinegar, sugar, Adobong Baka pineapple juice. Simmer toasted garlic and set aside.
pineapple juice, star anise, By Cecille Esperanza until chicken is cooked and 5. Add onion and shrimp
bay leaves, pepper, oregano Serves 4 to 6 tender. to skillet. Cook for 1 to
powder, thyme powder and 3. Remove chicken from the 2 minutes. Add okra and
salted black beans. 1/4 cup annatto oil, skillet. Set sauce aside. Fry carrots. Cook for 2 to 3
3. Bring to a rolling boil and IRU IU\LQJ chicken pieces until brown. minutes.
then reduce to a simmer. 1 kilo beef shanks, cut 1 4. In a skillet, add oil and 6. $GG FDXOLRZHU VLWDZ,
Slow cook the pork for 1/2-inch thick saut red onion, pineapple eggplant and cherry
about 1 hour or until the 3 heads garlic, top part cut and red bell pepper for 1 to tomatoes. Cook for 1 to 2
meat is tender and the  ED\ OHDYHV FUXVKHG 2 minutes. Add sauce and minutes. Add the adobo
sauce is reduced to half and 1 tablespoon peppercorns simmer until reduced. Then sauce to the vegetables.
rendering fat. Add more 2 tablespoons brown sugar add the chicken. Add vegetable stock only
water if necessary. 1/2 cup Datu Puti Vinegar 5. Transfer to a plate and if needed. Cook until
4. Add saba bananas and  FXS 'DWX 3XWL 6R\6DXFH garnish with cilantro. vegetables are tender.
banana blossoms, continue 1/2 cup water 7. Add salt and black pepper
to simmer until most of Spicy Adobo Summer to taste. Transfer to a
the liquid has evaporated. 1. In a skillet, heat annatto Vegetables serving plate. Garnish with
Adjust seasoning to taste. oil and pan fry each side of By Nancy Dizon-Edralin toasted garlic.
5. Add quail eggs and serve beef shank for 1 minute or Serves 4 to 6
with rice. until golden in color.
2. In a pot, combine JOIN
adobo sauce: THE
beef, garlic, bay leaves,  FXS 'DWX 3XWL 6R\ 6DXFH ADOBO
peppercorns, sugar, Datu 1/2 cup Datu Puti Vinegar MOVEMENT
Puti Vinegar, Datu Puti Soy  ELUGV H\H FKLOLHV TODAY!
Sauce and water. Simmer (siling labuyo) Sign the petition to make
and cover tightly for 1 hour. 3 tablespoons garlic, adobo the National Dish
3. Transfer adobo mixture minced, divided of the Philippines.
to a baking dish, cover with  ED\ OHDYHV Visit http://chn.
aluminum foil, and bake in 1 tablespoon black ge/1Hz159X

32 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Timeless Luxury. Endless Pleasures.


(Clockwise from top
left): Joan Rocas version
of Manila lechon with
tamarind, green papaya,
pipino, calamansi,
cashew and siling
labuyo; Dani Garca;
Yoshihiro Narisawa;
chef presentors and
organizers onstage;
Miko Aspiras polvoron
arranged on a map of the

Cuisines and
At the Madrid Fusin Manila 2016, there was a rich, nuanced
exchange of ideas with some of the worlds most influential chefs
Photos courtesy of MADRID FUSION MANILA
Ingredients photos by PAULO VALENZUELA
Dani Garcia photo by JC INOCIA N

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 35

MFM 2016

And we venture forth :

Exploring Ingredients

t all begins with the London) and Kevin Cherkas is used in Indonesia.

I ingredients.
As Datu Shariff
Pendatun III says in
his introduction to the
official book of the second
Madrid Fusin Manila,
The ingredients we use in
(Indonesia) were fascinated
with the Southeast Asian
specificity of lemongrass and
coriander, or its Mexican
cousin, culantro (pak chi
farang in Thai). We were
introduced too, to ingredients
Virgilio Martinez of
Central in Lima, Peru (No.
1 in Latin Americas 50
Best Restaurants in 2015)
provided a more holistic
perspective by explaining
how ingredients can be
our kitchens indicate the we havent heard of nor seen seen in the context of the
exchange between cultures before, such as Joan Rocas landscapes, and the specific
and contexts. Of course, use of calots (a kind of altitudes they come from
the key exchange featured scallion thats a cross between mountains, deserts, oceans
in this years Madrid Fusin a leek and an onion) from and rivers. To exemplify
Manila, spearheaded by the the Costa Brava; for Virgilio this, he created a dish using
Department of Tourism, Martinez, it was carachama yacon (a root crop from the
had to do with the Manila (sail fin catfish) from Peru. beauty in things that are by Amazon rainforest), cooked
Galleon Trade, which When it came to the their very nature transient slowly until completely
traversed the route from chefs choice of ingredients, and fleeting), and most charred, then he served it
Acapulco to Manila (and many of them appropriated importantly, of their cuisines with the tails and scales from
vice-versa) from 1565 to 1815. what was familiar and focus on seasonality (spring, the carachama fish (which is
At the Congress, common accessible in their own summer, autumn, winter). also from the same landscape
ingredients that are often cultures. Yoshihiro Narisawa, When Tatung Sarthou as the yacon). One must use
overlooked were shown in whose restaurant Narisawa discussed Moro cuisine in ingredients from ones
a refreshingly new light: in Tokyo was named No. 2 Mindanao, he demonstrated own environment,
foreign chefs like Oscar in Asias 50 Best Restaurants the use of palapa, or the he said.
Calleja (Spain) and Enrique 2016, used sakura or cherry combination of burnt We also learned
Olvera (Mexico) loved blossom leaves and flowers coconut, ginger, chili and there are many
the sweet acidity of our in his food as an expression scallions as the primary ingredients that
calamansi, while others like of the Japanese aesthetic of flavoring agent in Maranao are ubiquitous
David Thompson (Thailand, mono no aware (of finding food, akin to the way sambal across diverse
INGREDIENTS IN CONTEXT (Clockwise from left):
Virgilio Martinez caramelized yacon on carachama VK
tails and scales; Sakura Cocktail by Yoshihiro Narisaawa;
Kevin Cherkas BBQ Octopus with Balinese Gazpach ho;
Be authentic to yourself, not to some orthodox ide ea
of a national cuisine, says Enrique Olvera; Sea Urch
Rice with gim pure by Jungsik Yim (recipe on page 48);
Traditional jungle curry by David Thompson gallleon trade. Thompson
asked, How can an herb
t is used so pervasively
in one cuisine seem so
absent in another?
Although culantro
grows just as widely
in the Philippines as
it does in Thailand,
its only used here as a
medicinal herb to treat
boils and skin diseases.
Compare that to Thai
cuuisine, where culantro is
inddispensable for making
cultures and cuisines, but Kingg currries. So how did that
are handled in completely of New hap ppen?
different ways depending Koreean Yet beyond questions
on where one is situated. Cuisine,
i talked
lk d off origin, authenticity and
Cilantro is one such about how gim is the identity, it all boils down to
ingredient, as its used in both oldest, most common, yet rousing performance where the way these ingredients are
Mexican and Asian cuisine the most ignored ingredient he emphasized that a chef cooked. Thus says Enrique
as a way of adding a note in Korean cooking. Among should take inspiration Olvera, The (ingredient) is
of freshness, or of cutting some of the gim-infused from the discovery of what is central to cooking; it
through spicy heat. Since its dishes he showed us were new ingredients, and the should be better than it was
mild in flavor and aroma, its sea urchin bibimbap with gim transformation of familiar in its raw form. Ultimately,
usually eaten raw, very often pure; seared red snapper products into something what is truly important is
just chopped and mixed with covered with gim powder, new, such as the way one can how the ingredients must be
other ingredients that require served with clam stock; and make a Balinese gazpacho treated: with care, respect
no cooking, like salsas, crispy gim dipped in hot oil, with cold coconut milk and creativity.
relishes and garnishes. made into a yukhoe cone instead of tomato juice.
Then take seaweed (used as a vessel for raw food David Thompson, an
nori, with sushi and rice like uni or beef tartare). Australian-born chef who has
in Japan, and lato There were also those become the worlds foremost
(green seaweed) in who found themselves authority on Thai cuisine,
vinegary salads in living and working in places posed the conundrum
the Philippines. far from their countries of of the pak chi farang.
Its called origin, where they have Also known as broad leaf
gim in since established themselves coriander, Mexican cilantro
Korean. as chefs. Canadian-born or culantro, it was brought
Jungsik Yim, Kevin Cherkas of Cuca to Manila from Mexico
named The in Bali, Indonesia gave a and the Caribbean via the

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 37

MFM 2016

A History of

By TROY BARRIOS 2016 paid homage to the the Filipinos, the Spanish American chefs who have
Galleon Trade with its and other communities rediscovered Filipino cuisine
he galleon ships theme: from East to West. during the period of the and are experimenting with

T carried goods from

China, Malaysia and
India to Acapulco
after a six-month
voyage, but trade would not
stop there. The goods would
continue their travel by land,
From the Congress, what
emerged is the recognition
of the parallel evolution
between the cuisines and
cultures of Mexico and
the Philippines. The vast
exchanges in ingredients,
Galleon Trade. Approaching
gastronomy from the lens
of cultural heritage, he
emphasized that behind
every recipe and culinary
tradition lies a whole history
of exchanges among diverse
new techniques and flavors to
make it more approachable
to the foreign palate. After
an immersion in Asia which
included a stint with David
Thompson, Cohen opened
her restaurant, Pig & Khao,
to Veracruz and further, by techniques and ideas bring to cultures. in New York, where it
sea, to Seville and the rest question our modern ideas of I think Manila is one of won Zagats Best Asian
of Europe. This was the what is authentic, ancestral the epicenters of Mexican Restaurant in New York
first mercantile network to and originally ours. Many cuisine, says Enrique Olvera, City. At the Congress, Cohen
circumnavigate the globe, elements of the cuisines we who is known for combining demonstrated three Filipino-
linking Asia, Europe and identify with are rooted in a contemporary and ancestral inspired dishes, including
America with a steady flow foreign land and culture, but Mexican techniques and Bellychon, a modern version
of passengers, raw material, we have nevertheless made ingredients in his restaurant, of lechon, served with her
porcelain, silk, produce and these part of our culture and Pujol, in Mexico City. He interpretation of Filipino
ingredients. The exchange of the way we live. serves, for example, a very paella. Its about paying
had a lasting impact on the The Congress fittingly innovative mole that does not homage to my mom and
economy, politics, culture opened with Antonio contain a single ingredient family, she explains. In doing
and ordinary life in all the Sanchez de Mora, assistant traditionally associated so, Cohen completes the arc
countries involved, and professor of medieval history with the dish. Olvera says of exchange that began with
is especially evident in and archivist at the Archivo he is astounded by the the Galleon Trade centuries
the cuisines. Today, it is General de Indias in Seville. incredible similarity in the ago.
possible to say that modern Sanchez de Mora states that produce available in the two Many Filipinos find it
gastronomy has irrefutable gastronomy, as we know it countries. hard to explain Filipino
vestiges of this blending. today, has its roots in the Leah Cohen represents food, said Amy Besa, author
Madrid Fusin Manila cultural encounter between a new generation of Fil- of Memories of Philippine
INFLUENCES (Clockwise from top
left): Leah Cohens Paella; Fernando
Perez Arellano pays homage to
on Mediterranean cuisines; Romy
Dorotans Kinagang; Oscar Callejas
Oyster Kinilaw; The Spice Route, a
fanciful dish created by Arellano,
whose ingredients are a metaphor for
the lands the ancient merchants passed
along the spice route; Romy Dorotan;
Arellanos The Amphora, a dish whose
main ingredient is octopus served in an
Kitchens. Besa antique Phoenician-style claypot
runs Purple Yam
in Brooklyn with husband But even the kukot is gone ideas started even before dress came from India; cock-
Romy Dorotan. The first now, so todays kinagang is the Galleon Trade plied fighting and piatas blend
branch of this restaurant made with ulang, freshwater its route, and that China Philippine and Malaysian
opened in Besas childhood shrimp. has also had significant influences with Mexican.
home in Malate in 2014. Besa Fernando Prez Arellano influence in the cuisine of Blending is transcendent in
and Dorotan place Filipino takes inspiration in his Mexico. The first Asians the food, says Vallejo. Today
food in two categories: cooking from the ancient who migrated to the coast of many Asian products and
food that has always been Phoenicians, whom he Acapulco taught Mexicans spices enrich the Spanish
ours, and food we have calls the pioneers of East to marinate and eat fish lardercilantro, cumin,
made our own. There are meets West. Through and shellfish raw. That was papaya, mangoand are
very strong parallels in the their maritime trade and when we find recipes for now identified with Mexican
cuisines of Mexico and explorations, he explains, raw shellfish; no recipes gastronomy. For influences
the Philippines, says they brought Asia and have been found before from the Philippines, he
Besa. For example, North Africa across the then. Calleja says fusion cites tuba, fermented from
the tamales, originally whole Mediterranean. began long ago and will coconuts, a popular refresher
a portable food He adds, This has had a continue to do so in the in Mexico. Relleno and
prepared by the big impact on our food. future. Globalization, adobo are prepared in both
hunter-gatherers of In his critically acclaimed he says, is happening countriesadmittedly with
Mexico, migrated restaurant Zaranda in even in the kitchen. An a great deal of variation.
successfully to the Mallorca, Arellano creates inspection of the dishes we The cultural exchange
Philippines, becoming dishes that tell a story: for consider authentic reveal a of the galleons is a fruitful
indigenized into the example, pulpo or octopus combination of influences dialogue between nations. It is
native tamales which served in an amphora, an from different cultures. In enriching, he says.
we find in Pampanga and antique clay vessel the the end, lets not forget who Tatung Sarthou presented
Cavitethis time made with Phoenicians used to store we are and where we come the cuisine of the Moros
rice instead of corn. Tamales oil, wine and cereals on their from, but lets be open and who live in Mindanao,
also appear in other parts of sailing boats. Theyre now adapt. Lets be respectful [of the southern region of
the country: in Zamboanga found at the bottom of the each other]. For myself, I the Philippines, and who
the filling is sotanghon, while Mediterranean, often hiding prefer not to limit myself. are under represented in
in Quezon its similar to a an octopus inside. Jorge Vallejo is known conversations about Filipino
savory espasol made with Five hundred years for his contemporary take on food. Sarthou, whose book
galapong. As an example of ago, people started doing home cooking and the use Philippine Cookery: From
how a dish can evolve, Besa fusion, says Oscar Calleja, of indigenous ingredients at Heart to Platter has just
mentions the kinagang of restaurant manager of his restaurant, Quintonil, in been published, introduced
Sorsogon, a dish made with Annua and one of the Mexico City. Fusion is not the indigenous culinary
crabs (the word kagang gastronomic authors of something representing avant applications of coconut in
means crab). When crabs modernist cuisine. He garde cuisine, but rather his recipe for piyanggang
became scarce, talangka earned a Michelin star in traditional cuisine is [the result manok, a Tausug traditional
became a popular substitute; 2012 and the Best New of] a mix between cultures, dish, and in the pampa itum,
when local talangka became Restaurant Award in Spain he says. Even today, there are a Maranao flavor sauce made
extinct, kukot or wild forest in 2011. He believes that the many examples: the Mexican with a mix of spices and
shrimp was used instead. exchange of ingredients and traditional China poblana burnt coconut.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 39

MFM 2016

Innovations in Taste

uch of what was

M discussed during
the three days of
Madrid Fusin
Manila revolved
around the importance of
origins of ingredients and
cooking methods, echoing
Turkish Delight of pomegranate
seeds, cumin, pistachios, saffron
and roses; Squid with Fermented
Broad Beans; Shrimp with Cacao
and Star Apple in a ceramic cacao
the Spanish Galleon Trade pod; Joan Roca
theme of this years Congress.
But several chefs boldly
went beyond this theme to The essential is invisible
explore how innovation and 65 team members who study, to the eye. With his two
creativity can help push the learn, experiment, all in Michelin-starred Restaurante
boundaries of taste. the service of innovating Dani Garca, he is much
One of the most highly flavors to elate diners. Every admired for what he likes to
anticipated speakers, Joan year, Roca and his brothers call la cocina contradicin.
Roca shared how important close the restaurant for With tasting menus inspired
ones environment is two weeks to bring the by Alice in Wonderland and
in achieving a level of entire team on journeys The Little Prince, Garca
innovation that befits a of discovery, to places like demonstrated such whimsical
restaurant such as his: El Mexico, Colombia, Turkey, dishes as Sharpening
Celler de Can Roca in China. And his trip to Manila Your Pencil, composed of
Girona, Spain, ranked certainly gave him much to research and technique, but oversized pencil shavings.
number one in The Worlds get excited about. During it cant do without a sense of At first bite, the shavings
50 Best Restaurants 2015. his presentation, he happily adventure and exploration. transform into a delicate
Curious and excited, used products purchased at And it was clear that his eel mousse on a bed of foie
participants crowded the a local market star apple, visit to Manila made a real gras and yogurt. The dishs
large hall to listen as Chef jackfruit, calamansi, siling impression on one of the essence is indeed invisible
Roca took them on a guided labuyoon his meticulously worlds most admired chefs. to the eye. He also played
tour of the restaurant he prepared dishes, giving them Dani Garca of Marbella, with a traditional Andalusian
runs with his brothers Jordi a fresh new character. For Spain took a playful gazpacho, adding a tomato
and Josep. Resembling a Roca, innovation in taste may approach to taste innovations that was not quite what it
university campus, it houses require a solid foundation in in his talk intriguingly titled, seemed. Warm and affable,
in concept, admitting that
his ideas came to him while
caught in Manilas horrendous
traffic. To recreate his
LESSONS IN CREATIVITY (Clockwise childhood notion of laro or
from top left): Dani Garcas Yellow play, he went with the tastes
Gazpacho with a frozen nitro-tomato;
Miko Aspiras; Aspiras Laro dessert of santan (flowers growing
DYRUHG ZLWK WKH HVVHQFHV RI santan, wild in many a backyard),
rust and sweat; Jordi Butrn; Butrns
Empireumatico 2 composed of coffee,
rusted iron, and yes, his own
tea, milk chocolate, prunes, licorice; sweat. He used a special
Aspiras savory polvoron with black rice machine to extract the
flavor elements in order to
create edible essences that he
integrated into his dessert
santan infused into frozen
meringue, salty sweat mixed
into distilled caramel, rust
added to white chocolate.
Aspiras was also inspired by
native ingredients, combining
them in unusual ways to
flavor polvoron, a traditional
milk powder confection
calamansi malunggay flour
with pili nut butter; ube flour
with coconut butter; and even
savory black rice and tuyo
flour with squid ink milk. His
innovations in taste may seem
Garca invited outrageous to some, but he
audience showed that they are always
members to anchored on simplicity,
actually try his grounded with technique and
dishes onstage. strikingly realized.
He played British Nurdin Topham of
with diners Nur in Hong Kong brought
expectations innovation to the realm of
and memories, nutrition, a topic not normally
surprising discussed by chefs, but of
and delighting them choose your ingredients from much importance, given how
through illusion, artistry your library of flavors, then food ultimately affects our
and ultimately a beautiful select a technique to service body and health.
melding of flavors. the taste you are after, and All the speakers at
Spains Ricardo Camarena finally choose how it will Madrid Fusin Manila
Polvoron with map; Laro photos by G A BBY C A NTE RO
discussed waterless broths, an be served, its aesthetics, tackled taste in different
innovation that distills flavor plating, temperature, and waysits evolution through
to its most intense, with even the order in which the the Galleon Trade, its origins
liquid taken mainly from the components should be eaten. and cultural influences. But
collagen of the meat. He then put his theory into the story never ends there.
Pastry chef Jordi Butrn practice by demonstrating As we learned during three
presented a fascinating incredibly complex desserts he devised especially for days of informative and
treatise on the creative in such methodical fashion, Madrid Fusin Manila. Only inspirational talks, chefs
process by upending mesmerizing the audience in his 20s, Aspiras has already really dont like boundaries.
traditional pastry arts that who got to witness how achieved so much, winning While they may be rooted
tends to prioritize technique innovation truly works one at pastry competitions in tradition and connected
over taste. Through his component at a time. abroad, and running Scouts to nature, they are also
school and restaurant Michael Miko Aspiras, Honor cookie bar, Le Petit explorers of the imagination,
EspaiSucre in Barcelona, a pastry chef from the Souffl and Garde Manger in discovering not just new
Spain, Butrn asked, How Philippines, revealed his own Makati. Aspiras demonstrated lands, but imagining strange
do you create? He broke creative process, and the complex desserts that new tastes that they somehow
down the process thus: first inspirations behind the dishes nevertheless were very simple weave into reality.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 41

MFM 2016

Galleon Trade
at SMX
Over 90 booths
showcased products
and produce from all
over the Philippines,
as well as select
goods from Spain.
Interesting picks
include delicious meat
alternative Quorn;
ready-to-bake frozen
and parbake breads
by Qwikbread; Mama
Sitas bottled tamarind
Fried Sea Bass In teaspoon) mirin on tray overnight. Fry dried and batuan pure;
Black Pepper Sauce 50 grams (2 tablespoons + 1 quinoa for 2 seconds. a bountiful display
By Dani Garcia teaspoon) sugar 3. In a bowl, put the mixed of local produce by
Serves 2 1 teaspoon instant rice with kimchi, lettuce and the Department of
cornstarch sea urchin. Top with fried Agriculture, Slow
water, for brining quinoa. Food and Ark of Taste;
salt, to taste 1. Boil balsamic vinegar and from the Spanish
VHDEDVVOOHW XQWLOUHGXFHGWRDWKLUG  Piyanggang Chicken Pavilion, jamn Iberico,
VXQRZHURLO grams). By Tatung Sarthou jamn serrano, white
egg whites, beaten 2. Boil chicken stock, soy Serves 4 pork meat, cheese
black peppercorns, freshly sauce, mirin and sugar in a and Spanish wines
ground, to taste VDXFHSDQIRUPLQXWHV 1 whole chicken, quartered by Txanton, AWC,
cornstarch, for coating 3. Add reduced vinegar and 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Terry Selection,
cornstarch. Thicken sauce salt, to taste Interporc, among other
1. Make brine by combining to desired texture. Set 1 tablespoon pampa itum exhibitors.
water and 10% salt. Cover aside and reheat just before (recipe below)
WKHVHDEDVVOOHWLQEULQH plating. 1 onion bulb, minced
2. After 17 minutes, dry the 2 garlic cloves, minced
OOHWZHOODQGVOLFHLQWR Sea Urchin Rice 1 cup coconut milk
gram square portions. By Jungsik Yim 1/2 cup water
3. +HDWVXQRZHURLOWR Serves 1 2 siling pangsigang QJHU
beaten egg whites and 200 grams (3/4 cup) 1/2 cup coconut cream
sprinkle a generous amount steamed short grain rice 1 teaspoon salt and pepper
of black peppercorns on 60 mL (1/4 cup) soy sauce
ERWKVLGHVRIWKHVK 60 mL (1/4 cup) sesame oil 1. Marinate chicken in
4. Brush with egg whites 40 grams (2 tablespoons + vegetable oil, salt and half
again and coat with 2 teaspoons) seaweed of the pampa itum about one
FRUQVWDUFK)U\WKHOOHWV pure (made of soy sauce, hour. Set aside. PAMPA ITUM ( BLACKENED
LQWKHRLOIRUVHFRQGV sesame oil and seaweed) 2. Saut onion, garlic and COCONUT CURRY PASTE ):
bending them so the edges 20 grams (1 tablespoon + 1 remaining pampa itum. Add 1 coconut, grated and
curl up. teaspoon) quinoa chicken pieces. toasted
5. Brush plate with warmed 20 grams (1 tablespoon + 3. Add coconut milk and 2 1/2 cm fresh turmeric
balsamic teriyaki sauce WHDVSRRQ NLPFKLQHO\ water and let simmer. Then 2 sakurab bulbs (scallions),
(recipe below) and arrange diced bring to a boil. chopped
VKOOHWVRQWRS 20 grams (1 tablespoon + 1 4. Add chilies and coconut 2 lemongrass bulbs,
teaspoon) lettuce cream. Season with salt and chopped
BALSAMIC TERIYAKI 100 grams sea urchin pepper. Cook until done. 1 fresh ginger
SAUCE 5. Remove chicken from 1 siling labuyo (red chili)
250 grams (1 cup) 1. Mix the rice with soy the sauce and grill chicken 2 tablespoons cooking oil
balsamic vinegar sauce, sesame oil and separately.
100 grams (3/4 cup + 1 seaweed pure. 6. Before serving, pour Mix ingredients to make a
tablespoon) chicken stock 2. Boil quinoa in water for sauce over grilled chicken black paste. Set aside.
50 grams (3 tablespoons + 1 20 minutes or until well or serve separately as a
teaspoon) soy sauce cooked, then leave to dry dipping sauce.
50 grams (3 tablespoons + 1
A Journey of Taste From North To South
In collaboration with the Department of Agriculture, todays top chefs and purveyors showcased
modern ways of using local ingredients at the three regional lunches

A Rainbow
of Panlasa
Curated by Appetite editor-in-
chief Nina Daza-Puyat and F&B
Report editor-in-chief Angelo
Comsti, all the different flavors
(matamis, maalat, maasim,
mapait and malinamnam) were
well-represented, with dishes like
(from top): Maalat: Chef Kalel
Chans textured layers of salted egg
tofu, calamansi salted egg cream
with atchuete and Palawan honey,
topped with salted egg polvoron
and crispy rice; Matamis: light
yet intensely flavorful Bruled
Carabaos Milk-Soaked Honey
Cake with Salted Butter by young
pastry chefs Almusal, Filipino Style
Nikki Misa and Obsessive epicure JJ Yulo helmed the second regional lunch
Kristine Lotilla; with, among many breakfast-inspired dishes, (clockwise from
Malinamnam: top left): Chef Miguel Vecins Spanish-inspired breakfast of
kinilaw of fresh Tortilla de Patatas topped with longanisa from Isabela and
oysters from Kalibo peppers pickled with sinamak vinaigrette; Pampagueo
and Aklan with baker Chona Aysons famously decadent, pillow-soft Classic
kinilaw gulaman Ensaymada with thick, luscious hot chocolate by Risa; Chef
by Patrick and Pia Edward Bugias unique take on Dinuguan Longanisa and Puto;
Roa of Patricios warm and utterly satisfying Breakfast Porridge, served with
Cevicheria. fried tomatoes and daing na isda by Chef Karla Mendoza.

The New Street Food Via Mares Tour of the Philippines

Curated by Town & Country executive editor Alicia Sy Glenda Barrettos Via Mare interpreted representative
were street food-style dishes like (clockwise from left): Balut dishes from all over the Philippines, all re-imagined in more
like youve never seen it before by Chefs Nicco Santos and contemporary terms. Dishes included (clockwise, from left):
Denny Antonino of Your Local, prepared with uni and prawn Ilocano Express or an Ilocano version of Bicol Express;
cracker, piped with balut egg yolk, from Region V, Uragon Bites or deep
topped with apple caviar, and finished fried taro fruit and pinangat coated
with pinakurat espuma; Chef Robert in turmeric, made by The Oriental
Bolaos interesting rendition of Banana Hotel in Legaspi City; classic Kinilaw
Turon; absolutely addictive SLERS na Tuna from Visayas ; and Durian
chicharon. Pastel and Pomelo-Calamansi Tart from

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 43


Asias very best

Now on its fourth
year, Asias 50 Best
Restaurants 2016
rewards both culinary
innovation and tradition
across the continent WINNERS ALL
(Clockwise from top
By ANNE MARIE OZAETA left): Asias 50 Best
Photos courtesy of ASIAS 50 BEST Restaurants awardees
together onstage;
RESTAURANTS, sponsored by Asias Best Female
S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Chef Margarita Fors
with her son Amado;
ow can you truly

Lifetime Achievement
choose what is the Awardee David
Thompson of Nahm
best of the best? Taste the depth and diversity of this one night to learn who in Bangkok (#8); Chef
is subjective, after all. Asia-based restaurants. Now made it into this years highly Chele Gonzalez and
Yes, its a tall order, on its fourth year, Asias 50 selective list of the 50 best. Carlo Calma of the
Philippines own
but the UK-based William Best Restaurants 2016 moved Gallery Vask (#39)
Reed Media Group attempted to Bangkok from its base in How its judged
to do just that when it Singapore to crown this years Asias 50 Best Restaurants, group of
debuted The Worlds 50 Best superstar chefs. like its siblings The diners. This
Restaurants in 2002, not Held at The House on Worlds 50 Best and Latin year, Deloitte
without a bit of controversy. Sathorn at the W Hotel Americas 50 Best, depends served as
The list generated a lot of Bangkok, the 2016 awards on an academy of over 300 the official
buzz, granting the likes of were one big, fabulous party, food writers and critics, independent
Ferran Adri of elBulli, Ren bringing together the whos chefs, restaurateurs and adjudication
Redzepi of Noma and the who of Asias food world connoisseurs from around partner to help ensure the
Roca brothers of El Celler de over Thai cocktail fare and the world who list the best integrity and security of the
Roca with god-like status. Robert Mondavi wines. places they ate at in the last voting process.
Asias top chefs were Obviously, Asias star chefs 18 months. Unlike other
accorded that same cult garnered the most attention restaurant lists, these awards Special awards
status when Asias 50 Best Gaggan Anand, Yoshihiro shouldnt be seen as a ratings Aside from the 50 restaurants
Restaurants, sponsored by Narisawa, David Thompson, system, but rather as a yearly that made it to this years list,
S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, Andr Chiang, to name a snapshot of what most seven chefs or restaurants
debuted in 2012, capturing few. They were all there for interested this influential were singled out for their

44 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

A GRAND PARTY (Clockwise
from top left): Guests
partake of a sumptuous
buffet of Thai specialties;
Chef Andr Chiang of
Restaurant Andr in
Singapore celebrates his
#3 position; The House
on Sathorn serves as a
beautiful colonial-style
venue for this years awards;
Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa of
Narisawa in Tokyo gets his
Best Restaurant in Japan
Award as No. 2 on the list;
the red carpet beside the W
Hotel Bangkok awaits the
arrival of the chef-awardees;
a festive atmosphere inside
the courtyard of The House
on Sathorn; Chef Gaggan
Anand boasts the No. 1
restaurant in Asia for the
second year in a row

significant contributions to
the industry and/or their
impressive performance.
Chief among the awardees
is the Philippines Margarita
Fors who was crowned
the Veuve Clicquot Asias
Best Female Chef for 2016.
She made a name for herself
by introducing Italian
cuisine to the Philippines,
spearheading the farm-
to-table movement in the
country, and leading efforts
to bring Madrid Fusin to
Manila. Chef Margarita
came on stage to receive
her trophy and bouquet, The Diners Club Its a singular achievement dedicated to Thai cuisine.
proudly representing the Lifetime Achievement Award for a non-Thai chef to Other special awards
Philippines, as well as female went to the Australian- receive this honor. Fellow went to Cheryl Koh of Tarte
chefs everywhere, with her born, Bangkok-based David Bangkok-based chef Gaggan by Cheryl Koh as Asias Best
inspiring and influential Thompson. He has become Anand has this to say, David Pastry Chef, sponsored by
work. When Im 70 and I an icon of traditional Thai Thompson is not a chef, Cacao Barry; Florilge in
look back, maybe that would cooking, resurrecting long hes a temple of Thai food. Tokyo, Japan as the One to
probably be the thing I would lost Thai heritage recipes and However, this award doesnt Watch sponsored by Peroni
be happiest about. That we going deep into the nuances mean Chef David is ready to Nastro Azzurro; Mingles in
had a mission and we did it, of this complex cuisine. hang up his apron just yet. Seoul, Korea debuting at No.
and its been all for the better. He brings his love for Thai He muses, I have the same 15 for the Highest New Entry
It will be even better not cuisine to a global audience innocent joy, that timeless Award sponsored by John
only for the industry but for through his restaurant Nahm pleasure as I had when I Paul; the Chefs Choice Award
the people who bring food to (No. 8 on this years list), first embarked in cooking. for Paul Pairet of Ultraviolet
our table. Always positive formerly No. 1 in 2014) in But all I want to do now is (No. 7) and Mr. & Mrs. Bund
and upbeat, she shares, Im Bangkok, and Long Chim in to have choice. That choice (No. 28) in Shanghai, China;
happy to have inspired a lot Singapore, as well as through includes opening a few more and the Highest Climber
of younger women to choose his seminal cookbooks Thai restaurants, and eventually a Quintessence in Tokyo, Japan
this field. Food and Thai Street Food. library and research center for jumping 29 spots to No. 20.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 45


The best of Asia

Once the special awards were
Gallery Vask is the
handed out, the audience readily
awaited the countdown for Asias 50
Best Restaurants. Starting with No.
Philippines best
50, one by one, each restaurateur With Gallery Vask, Chef Jose Luis Calma. Working with little known or
or chef was called to the stage Chele Gonzalez has helped open often ignored ingredients like adlai
to receive his or her trophy and diners eyes to the diversity of grains and pansit pansitan, Chef Chele
pose for posterity. Among the 50 Philippine ingredients and cooking creates new ways of cooking with them,
restaurants called, ten of them are methods that have found their way while still respecting their traditional
first timers, showing how dynamic into his minimalist, modernist cuisine. uses. Being the Philippines only
It is no wonder that his restaurant representative on the list is amazing
and varied the list can be as it
debuted at No. 39 on this years Asias and a boon to the business side of the
acknowledges up-and-comers as 50 Best Restaurants list. Together restaurant, Chef Chele admits. But
well as institutions. with architect and artist Carlos Calma, he also makes sure this recognition
China, including Hong Kong Chef Chele took to the stage to receive doesnt affect him and Vask too much.
and Macau, led the pack with 13 Vasks well-deserved award as The Best <RX QHHG WR QG WKH OLQH ZKHUH \RX
restaurants on the list. Singapore and Restaurant in the Philippines 2016. are yourself, honest with your cuisine
Japan went home with 10 restaurants Born in Torrelavega, Spain, and so you dont change anything. But at
each, proving the depth of culinary having trained under Spains foremost the same time, you need to do things
talent in these countries. However, avant-garde chefs, Chef Chele found to [maintain your status], put the right
Thailand managed to impress himself drawn to the Philippines, energy in what you have to do but
working in various hotels before never lose yourself.
the most as all four of its chosen
opening Gallery Vask, a multi-sensorial
restaurants placed among the top 25 space that juxtaposes his cuisine 5/L Clipp Center, 11th Avenue corner
including, for the second year in a with modern Filipino art curated by 39th Street, Bonifacio Global City, www.
row, the number one spot, Gaggan.
Since he first opened his restaurant
in Bangkok in 2010, the Indian-born
Gaggan Anand has wowed diners
with his modern reinterpretations
of classic Indian dishes, done
with a verve that reflects his fun,
irreverent personality. Right after
finding out about his win, Gaggan
said, A consecutive win gives you
more confidence. We changed a lot
from what it was in 2015 to what
it is today. He adds with a smile,
Winning in Bangkok is the sweetest
Coming at number two is
Narisawa, the highly regarded
restaurant of Chef Yoshihiro
Narisawa, considered one of the
worlds most influential chefs. Hes
always been at or near the top spot
since Asias 50 Best Restaurants
debuted, and was even awarded The
Worlds 50 Best Restaurants Most
Sustainable Restaurant Award in 2013.
After the awards ceremony,
the celebrants converged on stage
to commemorate their wins. More FOOD AND ART
than the bragging rights, most (Clockwise from
Photos courtesy of Gallery Vask

impressive was the camaraderie top): Gallery

Vasks gallery
on display among these best and space with open
brightest chefs and restaurateurs kitchen; tiraditos;
adlai grains; buro
from around the continent, as they or fermented rice;
came together for one nights respite (inset) Chef Chele
from the grueling work they do to Gonzalez
stay on top of their game. After all, Turn to the Tastings section (page 18) to learn more about The Best Restaurants in 11
the day after, they go back to their countries in Asia. For the complete list of Asias 50 Best Restaurants 2016, visit www.
kitchens to do it all over again in the theworlds50best.com/asia.
hopes of coming back in 2017.

46 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

i n d a n a os
M Tr e asur es
n d in s rif e h as
A n isl a p t en t i al
s o much
t o fed ur n a t i
Banana Loaf with Cacao
Nibs and Cashew Nuts
Makes 1 loaf


Photography by PAT MATEO | Illustration and styling by BUTCHIE PEA 1/2 cup cocoa powder
Recipes by ABY NACHURA | Lansones essay by CHRISTINE NUNAG 1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
heres been a tradition of they created from these cacao beans 1/2 cup butter

T growing cacao in Davao ever

since the Spanish brought the
bean over in 1640. But in 400
years, the farmers and growers
have never really produced cacao
on a commercial scale, and have not
tapped its potential beyond, perhaps,
made Davao cacao a brand in itselfa
valuable step towards revitalizing the
cacao industry.
Davaos cacao has been garnering
international awards since the past
year. The Askinosie 62% Dark Milk
Chocolate + Fleur de Sel Sea Salt Bar,
2 eggs
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups mashed bananas
1/4 cup plain yogurt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup cacao nibs, divided
1 cup cashew nuts, divided
the native tableya. A shame, because a handcrafted single origin bar thats
the regions summery climate and certified kosher and gluten-free, was 1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease
unique terroir produce cacao beans of a two-time winner of the Good Food a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan.
unusually high quality. Descriptions Award in 2013 and 2014. The Askinosie 2. In a medium bowl, combine
and tasting notes vary 77% Philippine Dark RXU FRFRD SRZGHU EDNLQJ VRGD
theres mention of warm Chocolate Bar and Dark and salt. Set aside.
earthy flavors, brown CACAO Milk Chocolate Bar 3. Melt butter in a small
sugar and vanilla, tones
of caramel, slight hints
Theobrama cacao +theSeasilver Salt each won
award from
saucepan. Set aside to cool
of cinnamon and spice the London Academy 4. :KLVN WKH HJJV 7KHQ DGG
but the main point is that Davao cacao of Chocolate in the Best Bean to Bar EURZQ VXJDU EDQDQDV \RJXUW
is complex and well balanced with an Dark Chocolate and Milk Chocolate melted butter and vanilla
excellent finish. And it really doesnt categories. And last year, the Malagos H[WUDFW :KLVN XQWLO VPRRWK
taste like any other chocolate in the 65% Dark Chocolate won silver at 5. $GG WKH GU\ LQJUHGLHQWV DQG
world. the 2015 International Chocolate VWLU XQWLO FRPELQHG EHLQJ FDUHIXO
In 2008, this treasure trove was Awards World Drinking Chocolate not to over mix.
discovered by the Mars Chocolate Competition. Malagos, unlike the 6. Stir in about 3/4 cup cacao
Company, the U.S. brand that produces foreign brands, is a local company run nibs and 3/4 cup cashew nuts.
M&Ms, Snickers, Milky Way, Twix by Davao-based Filipinos. Leave some cacao nibs and
and, of course, the Mars bar. This There are still no commercial-sized FDVKHZ QXWV IRU WRSSLQJ
became Davaos initial foray into cacao plantations in Davao, rather its 7. Pour batter into the prepared
supplying cacao to a foreign market, a community of small to mid-sized ORDI SDQ DQG EDNH IRU DERXW 
although the link was still indirect farmers operating in an open market. minutes.
they were selling to a Malaysian Direct trade with this community 8. 7DNH RXW IURP WKH RYHQ DQG
based consolidator. Three years later, is doing much to bolster the local WRS ZLWK UHPDLQLQJ FDFDR QLEV
the Askinosie Chocolate Company economy, and improve the quality of DQG FDVKHZ QXWV %DNH IRU
became the first chocolate maker to life in the province. Theres a lot of DQRWKHU  PLQXWHV RU XQWLO \RX
import single origin cacao from Davao. growth and opportunity on the horizon FDQ LQVHUW D WRRWKSLFN LQ WKH
The chocolate bars and products and the future looks bright. center and it comes out clean.
9. Let bread cool in the pan for

48 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

n i n g
n a w ar d - w i n
l a t e
ts k

Rosit Cacao Farms
(0917) 656-5623

Malagos Chocolate
Bracken cheeseboard, Crate&Barrel

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 49

sw e t fr u i t
a m the island of fire
fr o
he best lansones, also known native lansones currently dominate

T as langsat, come from the

to the fruits exceptional

flavor. Perhaps its the presence of
all that phosphorous and potassium
the market, the government plans
island of Camiguin where the to increase production of Camlong
active volcanoes contribute through macrosomatic cloning, a
process that reduces the production
time and propagation period to just
four months. Around the island and
in the soil. Also grown is the cultivar in nearby cities like Cagayan de Oro,
Fresh Pomelo and
Lansones Salad
Serves 6 to 8

8 to 10 medium shrimps,
shelled and deveined
but with tails intact
called duku, a lansones that grows the price of native lansones can go juice from 2 large
in shorter bunches compared to the for as low P15/kilo for loose fruits calamansi
native variety, but with rounder (laglag), while in Manila it sells for  WHDVSRRQ 7KDL VK
fruits and thick, brittle skin. It approximately P70/kilo, and could sauce
contains less of the sap that causes go as high as P300/kilo. Native 2 teaspoons honey
sticky fingers and blemished nails. lansones are plentiful during the 1 pomelo, about 1 kilo,
The thin skin of the native lansones months of August to October. peeled and broken into
may tend to darken three days after For those with a hankering bite-sized pieces
being picked from the tree, but this for lansones during the off-season, 1/2 kilo lansones, peeled
rarely affects its there is now 6 to 8 fresh basil leaves
overall taste. lansones wine and 5 fresh mint leaves
To improve LANSONES vinegar produced
the shelf life of
this high-value
Lansium domesticum by enterprising
1. Set a pot of water to
boil on the stove. Add
commercial crop, Ethel and Ronel shrimps and boil just
Camiguins provincial government Bacolcol. They transform damaged a few minutes, until
introduced a new lansones cultivar lansones into vinegar and wine (24 VKULPSV WXUQ SLQN DQG
in the early 2000s. After years of proof, 12% volume) using the islands SOXPS DQG UP WR WKH
studies and tests, they successfully natural spring water. The brand touch. Drain and set
cross-bred the native langsat variety San Vicente Camiguin Lansones aside to cool.
with longkong, which are usually wine and vinegar is available in 2. Combine calamansi
grown in Thailand or Indonesia. Camiguins major tourist spots, MXLFH VK VDXFH DQG
They named it Camiguin Longkong, Vjandep pasalubong centers in KRQH\ LQ D ODUJH VDODG
or the Camlong, combining the Mambajao and Cagayan de Oro City. bowl. Mix well. Set aside.
favorable genetic characteristics The Lansones Festival in 3. 8VLQJ WKH VDPH ERZO
of both varieties. Camlongs tight Camiguin takes place every third add pomelo, lansones and
clusters and thick inelastic skin week of October. Organized by the VKULPSV 7RVV ZHOO
contribute to a longer shelf life of local tourism office, Lansones Eat- 4. 7RS ZLWK IUHVK
12 to 14 days, making them ideal All-You-Can lets tourists harvest basil and mint. Serve
for transport and export. They lansones for an entrance fee to the LPPHGLDWHO\
are nearly seedless with small or farm of about P200/person for two
undeveloped seeds that are covered hours. Its a great way to experience Tip: Its the perfect salad
with a cool, sour-sweet white, Camiguin and lansones country all WR VHUYH ZLWK JULOOHG RU
translucent flesh (aril). While in one. barbecue dishes.

For more information

about the Lansones
Festival, contact (088)
387-1097, (0917)
713-5215, email info@
visitcamiguin.org or visit

50 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Marin Orange low bowl, Wood salad fork and spoon, Crate&Barrel

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 51

Ginataang Tuna at
Serves 6 to 8

500 grams unripe langka

(jackfruit) strips, cut into bite-

a j e s t i c f is h sized pieces
2 cups water
1 kilo tambakol WXQD OOHW

salt, to taste
1/2 cup cooking oil

fr om th e dep 1 ginger, about an inch long,


sea 1 small onion, sliced

2 cups fresh coconut cream
(unang piga)
ts been thirty years and counting past five years have seen the catch 1 tablespoon coconut vinegar

I since tuna became such a vital

industry in Mindanao. It all started
in the 1970s when General Santos,
still an insular little fishing port, was
discovered by foreign buyers for the
quality and sheer quantity of the tuna.
Since then, its grown into a billion-
dwindling. Plus, the financial crisis in
the United States and Europe has seen
a drop in orders. Most worrying is how
it is getting harder and harder for local
fisherman to find the tuna as the fish
have migrated beyond the reach of
fishing boats which sometimes search
3 green chilies
1 red hot chili, chopped, optional
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Boil langka HVK LQ ZDWHU XQWLO

tender. Set aside.
2. Season tuna or tambakol OOHWV
peso industry with giant factories on as far as 300 kilometers from shore. with salt.
ground and export markets established The fishermen say global warming is to 3. ,Q D ODUJH IU\LQJ SDQ KHDW RLO
in Europe and Asia. Gensan isnt the blame. Tuna is a mobile fish, affected by DQG IU\ WKH VK OOHW DERXW  WR 
only sourcethere weather. If its too hot on minutes per side. Set aside half-
are tuna fishers
spread throughout the
TUNA the sea surface, they will
seek the colder depths
Socsargen area. Thunnus where they are difficult JDUOLF DQG JLQJHU 6DXW IRU
Tuna is a relatively to reach. As global about 2 minutes or until soft and
modern food, but it is a democratic fish. warming affects our oceans currents, IUDJUDQW $GG RQLRQ DQG FRRN
Busy workers can open a can of tuna tunas migration patterns will change until translucent.
and quickly make it into sandwiches, as the fish seek cooler seas away from 5. $GMXVW KHDW WR ORZ DQG JHQWO\
pasta or bake it into pies. You can order our territorial waters. Thats just one of stir in coconut cream. Simmer
fresh tuna steaks, blast-frozen and the major problems looming over the IRU DERXW  PLQXWHV $GG YLQHJDU
airlifted to reach the supermarkets and tuna industry: another is the dwindling do not stir. Simmer for another 3
restaurants in peak condition. And then stocks. Tuna is a premier carnivore and minutes.
theres the bluefin tuna prized so highly the fact that the numbers are declining 6. $GMXVW WKLFNQHVV RI VDXFH E\
by the Japanese. The demand drove implies problems in the food chain. VORZO\ DGGLQJ ZDWHU XS WR WKH
tuna prices sky high and the industry Because we love tuna for its flavor, GHVLUHG FRQVLVWHQF\ $GG JUHHQ
was easily supporting half a million its versatility and nutritional value, and red hot chilies. Adjust taste
people in Gensan alone. we need to find ways to be responsible with salt and pepper.
That growth might not be reliable consumers and support sustainable 7. $GG FRRNHG langka and fried
for long, for a number of reasons. The producers of tuna. VK OOHWV LQWR WKH SDQ 6LPPHU
for another 10 to 12 minutes. Mix
steamed rice or adlaiJUDLQV

Be a sustainable
consumer of tuna. Buy
20 Russel Avenue,
Baclaran, Pasay,
(0917) 824-3702.
Place your order one
day in advance, for a
minimum 5 kilos.

52 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Gianna low bowl. Gianna buffet plate, Crate&Barrel

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 53

Sag ing
s o rdin ary, s o es
e n t i al
anana is not a tree, its an herb; status quo has been maintained and

B the only herb in the world that

produces fruit. It grows anywhere
in the world where its warm
and pleasant. In the Philippines,
its found all over the archipelago. But
the very heart of banana country is in
Mindanao, more specifically Davao,
even expanded today where it exists in
an uneasy balance between commercial
profit and the increasingly vociferous
complaints raised about issues such
as environmental degradation,
sustainability, and the growing number
of small to medium-scale farmers who
Maruya with Langka
Serves 4 to 6

4 cups saba bananas, sliced 1/4

Compostela Valley and North Cotabato. want a bigger share of the pie. inch diagonally
Here, the great banana plantations are And yet theres much to love about 100 grams ripe langka (jackfruit)
found. the banana. We Filipinos use it in its strips, diced, optional
Banana is very important in entirety, from fruit to blossom (puso) to 2 eggs, beaten
Mindanao and to the leaves. We cook it in our  FXS DOOSXUSRVH RXU
Philippines as a whole.
Its our second largest
BANANA savory dishes (pochero,
nilaga), turn it into
3/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup sugar
export, next to coconut. Musa acuminata dessert (maruya), enjoy 1 1/4 cup water
And we are the third it as street food, or make 2 tablespoons cooking oil
largest producers of Cavendish bananas banana butter or catsup. Its part of confectioners sugar, for
in the world, second only to Ecuador our daily life, so ubiquitous we hardly sprinkling
and Costa Rica. Bananas grown in our notice. And we enjoy our native
southern provinces end up all over the saging varieties. especially lakatan, 1. 8VLQJ D ODUJH PL[LQJ ERZO
world, but most notably in countries with latundan and saba. Still, were barely FRPELQH DOO WKH LQJUHGLHQWV
very high quality standards like Japan scratching the surface, for there are WRJHWKHU H[FHSW FRRNLQJ RLO DQG
and South Korea. Sales are expanding to 91 banana varieties in the Philippines, FRQIHFWLRQHUV VXJDU 0L[ ZHOO WR
China, New Zealand and Western Asia. and many of these, the wild bananas, PDNH D VPRRWK EDWWHU
However, all these do not automatically we no longer even know. Growing 2. +HDW D IU\LQJ SDQ ZLWK FRRNLQJ
translate to prosperity for the banana in all shapes and sizes, these bananas oil over medium heat.
farmers and workers, many of whom are exist in wonderful profusionfrom 3. Pour about 1/4 cup batter
born, grow up and live all their lives in small to gigantic, in red or violet, with into the oil to form into a small
towns where the banana plantations are. white and green stripes, smelling of IULWWHU 3DQIU\ IRU  PLQXWHV LS
They begin working at the big plantations apples, or with crazy big seeds inside. RYHU DQG FRRN IRU DQRWKHU PLQXWH
before they are 15 years old, and they They are the descendants of the first RU XQWLO ERWK VLGHV DUH JROGHQ
grow old in a life of hard labor. bananas domesticated in Papua New brown. Repeat until all the batter
The banana plantations can trace Guinea some 8,000 years ago. They KDV EHHQ FRRNHG
their roots to Spanish colonial rule, reached us thanks to the ancient 4. 3DW GU\ maruya with a clean
oriented towards exporting a single Austronesians who sailed around paper towel to remove excess oil.
crop. Just before World War II, Southeast Asia, sharing their penchant 5. 6SULQNOH ZLWK FRQIHFWLRQHUV
US-owned multinational companies for raw fish and bananas along the VXJDU ULJKW EHIRUH VHUYLQJ 6HUYH
started coming in, buying land from the way. Todays heirloom varieties, warm with chocolate sauce.
colonial government and transforming obscure and unappreciated, are a
these tracts into great plantations. This treasure waiting to be discovered.

54 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 55
Easy Pork Fabada on Adlai Grains
Serves 6 to 8 for fabada
Serves 4 for adlai grains

J obs tears
500 grams dried white beans
10 cups water
200 grams pork belly, cubed
1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads,

his an ci en
200 grams pancetta or Italian bacon, cubed

t t gr a i n 200 grams Serrano ham, cut into cubes

200 grams Spanish chorizo, sliced 1/2 inch
200 grams blood sausage (morcillas), sliced
1/2 inch thick
elonging to the same family by a glutinous variety called pulot. 1 bay leaf

B of grasses as wheat and corn,

adlai is an ancient grain that
grows wild in the uplands
of East and Southeast Asia.
The Chinese have been known to
boil it in sweetened water to make
cloudy tea. Koreans toast then
Adlai is sometimes called Jobs
Tears, perhaps because the fat
brown or grey teardrop-shaped
grains growing abundantly on
each stalk calls to mind the many
sorrows of that Biblical character.
Wild adlai is sometimes dried
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Cover white beans with ample hot water

pound the grain, before brewing and made into rosary beadsand minutes, then remove. Pour out water.
it into a tea. In Vietnam, its sold on Etsy. When cooked, it is 3. Drain water from beans and place them
added into cold soups; the Thais chewy, mildly sweet, earthy, with LQWR WKH FDVVHUROH 3RXU ZDWHU EULQJ WR D
substitute it for tapioca balls they a slightly nutty, toasty flavor. Its a ERLO RYHU KLJK KHDW %RLO IRU  PLQXWHV
cook in sweet syrup and top with great substitute for rice, couscous VNLPPLQJ DQG GLVFDUGLQJ WKH IRDP WKDW
shaved icea sweet treat. or even pasta. It can also be used forms on top.
In the Philippines, adlai is still in soups, salads, paella or risottos. 4. 6WLU LQ VDIIURQ LI XVLQJ SRUN EHOO\
an obscure grain, Adlai has pancetta and ham; simmer for 5 minutes.
grown and eaten
by only a number
ADLAI the potential of
being the next
of indigenous Coix lacryma-jobi cult favorite forms on top.
people. The (following quinoa). 5. 5HGXFH KHDW WR ORZ WKHQ DGG ED\ OHDI
Subanon farmers in Mindanao Its gluten-free, versatile and cover, and simmer until beans are tender,
plant adlaiwhich they call delicious, and increasingly prized  WR  KRXUV DGGLQJ ZDWHU LI QHHGHG WR
dalaibut only as a hedge crop for its medicinal properties: it is a NHHS EHDQV PRLVW $GG VDOW DQG SHSSHU
to fence in main crops like rice. diuretic, anti-inflammatory, boosts if needed. Allow beans to stand for 20
They say adlai repels pests and so the immune system and protects PLQXWHV RII RI WKH KHDW EHIRUH VHUYLQJ
protects the plants beside it. But against skin allergies and certain 6. 7R VHUYH SODFH D JHQHURXV DPRXQW RI
just a generation ago, the Subanon types of cancer. As a possible food adlai JUDLQV UHFLSH EHORZ LQ D ERZO WKHQ
were eating adlai as a staple staple, it is very promising, being WRS ZLWK VRPHEHDQVPHDWDQGVDXVDJHV
food; their value for this grain sturdyit grows in all soil types,
is reflected in the complicated needs no special tending, and can ADLAI:
system of nomenclature they have withstand heavy rains and long 2 cups adlai grains
for adlai and its many varieties dry spellsperfect, in fact, for our 4 cups water
most popular to them is the native climate and promising in these
Glakas, once their staple, followed times of climate change. While fabada LV VLPPHULQJ SODFH adlai
then simmer until liquid is absorbed and
Down To Earth



56 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Studio Dark Clay dinner plate, Studio Dark clay bowl, Crate&Barrel

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 57


In the spirit of living sustainably,
cooking with locally sourced fruits for
our everyday meals can be delicious,
good for the environment, our wallets,
and our health, too
Recipes by KATHERINE JAO | Photography by PAUL DEL ROSARIO
Mango Muffins photo by PAT MATEO | Styling by ABY NACHURA
Props styling by ATHENA FREGILLANA

58 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Warm Spinach, Tyrolean
Bacon, and Dalandan Salad
with Sesame Vinaigrette
The sweet acidity of dalandan balances
out the lightly cooked, slightly bitter
spinach and the salty bacon. Tyrolean
bacon is essentially slab bacon, but it can
be easily substituted with picnic bacon.
Sweeter than its American counterpart,
dalandan is available all year round, .

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 59


Seafood Pancit Buko

Heres an upscale version of our beloved pancit,
with the addition of scallops and clams. This
recipe is naturally gluten-free, too, as it replaces
the usual wheat noodles with strips of young, juicy
coconut meat. To make this dish even heartier,
just add even more meat and vegetables. Easily
sourced in any neighborhood market, young
coconut meat is whats best used for this recipe.

60 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Paksiw na Isda sa Kamias
Paksiw involves simmering meat or seafood in
vinegar in order to preserve it. This traditional
Filipino cooking technique works exceptionally
well with very acidic fruits like kamias. Cooked
place of tambakol \HOORZQ WXQD  \RX FDQ
also use kalapato KRUVH PDFNHUHO  hasa-hasa
Kamias is generally available all-year
round, but its at its most plentiful

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 61

For a healthy grab-it-and-go breakfast, nothing
are already sweet, theres no need to use
that much sugar in this recipe. For texture
and crunch, you can add chopped dried
mangoes and/or nuts, either in the batter
itself or sprinkled on top before baking.
The very epitome of summer can be
represented by the bounty of mangoes we
receive. They are at their best during the
hot, dry months of March, April and May.

62 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Kaymito Melon Sherbet
We like to eat our kaymito cold, straight
from the refrigerator, as its texture and
taste reminds us of ice cream. So it
makes perfect sense for this fruit to be
paired with melons to make a perfectly
refreshing, summery panghimagas.
Serve this sherbet topped with crunchy
cereal, shredded corn, and drenched
in even more condensed milk.
Kaymito comes in purple and green
varieties, but they taste the same.
Its plentiful in the months leading
but by the start of the rainy season,
their trees no longer bear fruit.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 63


Warm Spinach, 1 cup chicken broth Mango Muffins

Tyrolean Bacon and salt and pepper, to taste 0DNHV  PXIQV
Dalandan Salad with 1/4 cup chopped spring onion
Sesame Vinaigrette 2 eggs
Serves 2 1. Over medium-high heat, 1/4 cup butter, melted
saut garlic and onion in olive 1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 cup Tyrolean or slab bacon, oil. 3/4 cup ripe mango pure
sliced into lardons or strips 2. Add shrimp, squid rings, clam 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups baby spinach leaves meat and scallops. Saut until   FXS DOOSXUSRVH RXU OTHER LOCAL
1/4 cup beets, diced and half-cooked.  FXS UHQHG ZKLWH VXJDU FRUITS, AND
roasted 3. Add buko meat, carrots, 1 teaspoon baking soda THEIR PEAK
8 to 12 dalandan segments cabbage and chicken broth. 1 teaspoon baking powder SEASONS
3 tablespoons pine nuts, Cook for 5 to 6 minutes or until pinch of salt
toasted broth evaporates and seafood 2 cups chopped ripe mangoes Early Summer
and vegetables are completely (January - March)
1. Cook bacon, remove from cooked. 1. Preheat oven to 350F. Line Avocado
pan, and strain out oil. Set 4. Season with salt and pepper. PXIQ SDQV ZLWK PXIQ SDSHU Bananas
aside. Once done, turn off heat, cups. Set aside. Dalanghita
2. In the same pan, still over sprinkle spring onions on top 2. In a mixing bowl, whisk (Tangerine Orange)
PHGLXPKLJK KHDW EULH\ and serve. together eggs, melted butter, Papaya
saut spinach leaves in a good milk, mango pure and vanilla Pomelo
amount of sesame vinaigrette Paksiw na Isda sa extract.
UHFLSH EHORZ  7XUQ RII KHDW Kamias 3. In another bowl, whisk Summer
then toss in bacon. Serves 6 to 8 WRJHWKHU RXU VXJDU EDNLQJ (April - May)
3. Transfer salad to a plate soda, baking powder and salt. Balimbing
and top with beets, dalandan 1 cup pork back fat, sliced into Add mixture of wet ingredients. Duhat
segments and pine nuts. Serve short strips Mix until well combined, but All melons
warm with more vinaigrette on 1/4 cup garlic cloves, crushed make sure not to over-mix. Fold (Honeydew,
the side. 2 cups kamias, halved in chopped mangoes. Watermelon, Canary
8 to 10 slices tambakol 4. Scoop mixture into lined Melon)
2 tablespoons bacon fat, 2 thumb-size pieces ginger, IXOO %DNH LQ SUHKHDWHG RYHQ IRU Pineapple
rendered from Tyrolean sliced into strips about 17 to 21 minutes, or until Siniguelas
bacon 2 tablespoons olive oil a toothpick inserted into the
1 tablespoon sesame oil  FXS VK VDXFH FHQWHU RI HDFK PXIQ FRPHV Rainy Season
1 tablespoon soy sauce 3/4 cup apple cider vinegar out clean. (June - September)
1 to 2 teaspoons sugar 1 tablespoon peppercorns 5. Completely cool down Durian
2 teaspoons rice vinegar water, as needed PXIQV Guava
pinch of pepper pinch of salt Guyabano
Kaymito Melon Santol
Whisk together all the 1. Layer pork fat in the bottom Sherbet Rambutan
ingredients. Set aside. of a palayok or clay pot. Add Serves 4
garlic, 1 cup of sliced kamias, Late Season
Seafood Pancit Buko WKHQ WRS ZLWK KDOI RI WKH VK 2/3 cup kaymito VWDU DSSOH (October -
Serves 4 2. Add remaining kamias and meat December)
DUUDQJH WKH UHVW RI WKH VK 1/2 cup melon balls, scooped Atis (Sweetsop)
2 tablespoons minced garlic Put ginger on top. Drizzle with with a melon baller Chesa
1 red onion, sliced olive oil. 1/2 cup evaporated milk Lansones
2 tablespoons olive oil 3. $GG VK VDXFH YLQHJDU 1/2 cup condensed milk Sampalok
1/3 cup shrimp, peeled and peppercorns and some water. pinch of salt
deveined Simmer for 25 to 30 minutes
1/3 cup squid rings or until oil is released from In a blender, process all
1/3 cup clam meat pork fat and the kamias is soft. ingredients until smooth.
1/3 cup scallops Season to taste with salt. Freeze for 3 to 4 hours or
2 cups grated buko meat until the sherbet completely
1/2 cup carrots, julienned crystallizes.
2 cups shredded cabbage

64 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


Stuffed with
Lechon diva Dedet de la Fuente of Pepitas Kitchen new degustation
and to-go menu items, whats next on her plate, and what its like to be
in the same room as Adam Richman
Photography by JC INOCIAN

Pepitas Kitchen outdoes itself every year with
its stuffed lechon creations, like this extravagant
Richmans Lechon de Leche adorned with gold leaf in
honor of a recent celebrity guest

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 65


his is the best

T sound in the
world, Dedet de la
Fuente of Pepitas
Kitchen says as
she digs a knife into a lechon,
the crackling of the crispy
skin loud in a room that had
suddenly become silent.
We are standing in the
living room of the Lechon
Diva, where she holds her
legendary stuffed lechon
degustation dinners. Not
surprisingly, it looks like a
room youd want to throw
a party in. Dedets rise
from photographer and
FILIPINO ELEGANCE (Clockwise from top left) The
videographer to Lechon Diva Pepitas Kitchen private degustacion starts with a
is well known. She enrolled beautifully set dining table; pig-themed decor adds a
in a lechon-making course, with generous bits of foie gras spills out of the
decided to experiment with Richmans Lechon; Dedet de la Fuente presents her
stuffing and, with newest, most indulgent creation, Richmans Lechon;
encouragement layers of fresh buko, pandan mousse with otap and
from good broas, topped with sapal, latik, nata de coco and uraro
friend and food
personality Spanky
Enriquez, took
the leap into
private dining. Her
business, Pepitas
Kitchen, has
grown in leaps and
bounds since it was
established in 2011.
For Dedet,
entertaining means
celebration. It
harks back to
summers spent in
her dads province
of Bulacan during
the fiesta. We
would stay in the
bahay na bato.
There were times
we would go to the
bukid, you would
eat by the dam before the shoot, she casually
where your feet mentioned the visit to
would get wet, you Spanky, who then explained
would catch mga tutubing even a bit outrageous, yet to her that Richman is a
kalabaw and karayom, she always delicious. A rich TV star whos been known
reminisces. Every year, she tasting menu to eat a lot. This got Dedet
Dedet makes it a point introduces something new, It all started with an email. thinking; in five days, she had
to be exclusively Filipino and it has always wowed her Adam Richman was coming her menu. (When Adam
with her food. Whether diners. This year, she unveils to Manila and wanted to try entered), sabi niya, Im so
theyre traditional or her the Richmans Degustacion, the stuffed lechon. Dedet said happy to meet the Lechon
own innovations, her dishes in honor of TV host Adam yes to the shoot, even though Diva! I just smiled. Siguro
reflect her pride and passion Richman of Man vs. Food she doesnt watch TV, so she first time niyang nakakita (ng
for Philippine cuisine, and and Man Finds Food, as well didnt know who Richman di nakakilala sa kanya),
she expresses it in her own as new dishes from Pepitas is and what a big deal he is Dedet recalls with a laugh.
unique waya little sassy, Kitchens To Go menu. in the food world. Five days One of the first things

66 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Pepitas all-original Filipino
Paella takes the best Filipino
productspancit Paraaque,
crispy dilis, mussels, pork
barbecue, chorizo Macau,
shrimp, garlic chips, tinapa
DNHV longanisa, quail eggs,
sitawand combines them
in this festive rice dish that
sends taste buds atingle

Richman tried was, of course, Dedet exclaims. You bite off the plastic and generous with his happy
the lechon. His reaction Dedet even got to make then you just suck everything comments. He kept saying
when he tried itwhen Richman experience a bit from the small hole. And he how the flavors complement
we were slicing it, when of old-fashioned Filipino did! each other, she says. So I
he heard the skin crackle, summer culture. Because my Dedet is proud to have think he got a good idea of
when he smelled the truffle palate cleanser is ice candy, I been able to share her the usual Filipino party food,
riceit was just like a little told him this is how we used brand of Filipino dining she shares.
boy opening the first toy. He to have our snacks during with an international
was really happy. He couldnt summertime. How do you audience. Adam fell in love A party size menu
believe how good it was! eat this? he asked. I told him, with Filipino food. Hes so Aside from her degustation

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 67


From the To Go Menu,
the Sipit with its rich,
tangy special sauce
solves the problem of
eating crab at a party
without the mess of
removing crabmeat
from its shell

dinners, Dedet offers a Ive never done, she says. of her newest to-go dishes, not Valentines. I think it
full range of To Go dishes, So when actors Dingdong the Filipino Paellatanglad looks good, di ba? Pinoy na
including her famous lechon, Dantes and Marian Rivera rice topped with longanisa, Pinoy, she says. With its
to be ordered in advance asked her to cater their tinapa, tocino, kansi, tahong, bright colors, intricate design
for pick up. Her new To daughters baptism, she barbecue, lechon Macau, and bold flavors, this dish
Go menu came to be partly said, yes, even though the sitaw and quail eggs, among is quintessentially Pepitas
because of clamor and thought of handling such others. It was Valentines, Kitchen.
partly because she wanted a big production terrified so sabi ko, lets do heart- Other dishes on the To
to challenge herself. I said, her. The catering gig went shaped; so always na lang Go menu are fan favorites,
this year I will do things extremely well, inspiring one heart-shaped, even if its the selection wide enough so

68 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

The Delights of
Pepitas Kitchen
Whether you want to dine
in or order for a party,
Pepitas Kitchen is ready to
serve its creative Filipino
dishes for any occasion.
Private dining degustation
dinners can be reserved for
15 to 21 persons, or up to
60 maximum at a different
private dining venue. The
To Go Menu offers Pepitas
bestselling stuffed lechon
platters and desserts.
Also, watch out for Pepitas
Kitchens Hayop sa Sarap
na Degustacion pop-up
dinners for groups of four
of more.
Visit Lechon Degustacion
Heres Dedet de la
Fuentes homage to at Pepitas Kitchen on
her mothers Chicken Facebook, call (0917)
Relleno, which she 8660662 or email
had to recreate from pepitaskitchen@gmail.com

that one can easily assemble want a seafood dish, a pork again. For two consecutive she says.
their own party. Because dish and salads. Thats why years, weve been bringing And then there are the
people fell in love with my now I have a good amount of our lechon abroad. First I pop-ups, which have sent
hiplog (prawns with salted to-go items. And its always brought it to New York ripples of delight through the
egg), I started doing it for party size. where I had a sold-out lechon Manila dining scene because,
customers to take home, so night, and then last year, we instead of having a minimum
when you order lechon, it Doing more, better were a hit in Singapore and of 15 in a group to try the
means you have a party, But Dedet isnt stopping people lined up for it for up degustation dinners, you
Dedet explains. When you there. She hopes to be able to three hours, so hopefully I will only need four. Because
have a party, you probably to serve her lechon overseas get to do that again this year, Dedets first pop-ups last

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 69

(Clockwise from left)
The Super Suman
tops the traditional
steamed rice cake
with Filipino favorite
sweet treats like
Chocnut, yema, ube
pastillas, latik; Jardin
de Bacolod comes
with Visayan-inspired
crispy beef kansi,
greens, singkamas,
salted egg and
mangosteen dressing;
the best selling Hiplog
combines shrimp with
salted egg sauce, for
a cholesterol busting,
addictive dish

April were such a big success, with guests donating a Dedet also loves that thanking me, thank you
she is considering having one wheelchair each. At least she gets to meet people and for bringing Filipino food
every two months. shes still part of our lives, travel to places, all in the here! Its so good! Talagang
There is also Project and we get to help people in name of spreading Filipino touching!
Wheelchair, a family need, she says. cuisine. Im really a shy How Dedet got to where
endeavor done in memory The best part about what person. Because before, I she is now, she says, was by
of Dedets eldest child, who she does, Dedet says, is the really will not speak unless always being open to new
passed away six years ago. opportunity to show her I really know you, but I experiences. You never close
What started from her two daughters the value of hard think my world is opening a window. You let things
younger daughters selling work. I keep telling them, up because by being Lechon happen because you never
snacks at the Best Food you know, this is such a gift. Diva, Ive met many people know, she says. I dont plan
Forward bazaar with which Not everyone is given the from different walks of life, things. Its always just a happy
to buy used wheelchairs to chance to help. When we ask from different countries. surprise, and Im looking
give to charity, soon became for wheelchairs, people give. Its such a gift, she says. forward to the next surprise.
a fundraiser first in her home, I think they see that value, And then being able to So is the rest of lechon-
then in the Champagne and that gives me the most show the world our food. loving Manila, and the
Room of the Manila Hotel, fulfillment, she shares. In Singapore, people kept world.

70 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

(Clockwise from top
left) Filipino Nibblers
are crostini with green
mango butter and
binagoongan topping,
bihod butter with crispy
dilis, and calamansi
butter with sili topped
with chicharon; rich
marrow served on the
bone with a slathering
of oxtail marmalade
and special salt; the
Richmans Degustacion
menu; Ginseng Egg
or balut cooked in oil
and garlic, that even
balut haters will love;
sisig-inspired Heaven
in My Ears made with
pigs brain, pigs ears and
kamote chips

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 71


Crispy Kansi
Serves 4

1 kilo beef shank, sliced 1

inch thick
salt and pepper, to taste
1 sachet 25 gram sinigang
na gabi mix powder
cooking oil, for deep frying
1. Boil beef in water until together all the ingredients.
tender. When tender and 3. Stuff all the parts of the
FRRO WR WKH WRXFK DNH EHHI marinated chicken with the
using your hands. SUHSDUHG VWXIQJ DV PXFK
2. Add salt, pepper and as you can until full. Using
sinigang na gabi mix powder. kitchen string and a large
3. )U\ EHHI DNHV LQ KRW RLO needle, sew the cavity shut.
until golden brown. Wrap chicken in foil.
4. Use as a topping on your 4. Roast chicken in a 350F
favorite salad. oven for 1 hour.
Dragonfruit Cooler
5. Remove foil and rub
Crab in Gata and Taba chicken with oyster
ng Talangka sauce mixed with
Serves 8 to 10 cooking oil. Put back
1 large white onion, in the oven and roast
4 kilos crabs QHO\ FKRSSHG until golden brown.
dredging ink sacs removed string before serving.
cooking oil, for frying and sliced into 1/2 Reserve pan drippings
3 tablespoons cooking oil inch rings for gravy (recipe
1/2 cup diced ginger or less 1/4 cup vinegar below).
coconut cream extracted  FXS ZDWHU
from 2 coconuts 2 tablespoons soy GRAVY:
1 bottle crab fat (store VDXFH 1 cup chicken broth
bought) salt and pepper, to 1/2 cup pan drippings
salt and pepper, to taste WDVWH 2 teaspoons
1. Steam the crabs. Slice 1. In a pot, boil water dissolved in 1
each body into 2 pieces. and add sotanghon tablespoon
2. Roll crab pieces in all- noodles. Once noodles Crispy Kansi water
SXUSRVH RXU are cooked, drain water salt and pepper,
3. Fry crab in hot oil. Set and set noodles aside. to taste
aside. 2. Heat cooking oil in a 1 teaspoon oyster sauce
4. Saut ginger in oil. When medium-sized saucepan. mixed with 2 tablespoons In a saucepan, dissolve all
brown, add coconut cream Saut garlic and onion until cooking oil, for basting ingredients and cook until
and let simmer. translucent. gravy slightly thickens.
5. Add crab fat, salt and 3. Add squid and lightly STUFFING: Season with salt and pepper.
pepper. Let simmer again stir-fry just until the color 1/2 kilo ground pork
until sauce becomes thick. WXUQV SDOH $GG YLQHJDU 1/4 cup cheddar cheese Dragonfruit Cooler
6. Once sauce starts boiling, and water, and bring to a 1 tablespoon raisins Serves 1
add crab pieces and cook VLPPHU 6HDVRQ ZLWK VDOW 1/8 cup chopped ham
until shells turn red about and pepper. 1/4 cup carrots, minced 1/4 cup Dragon Fire dragon
15 minutes. 4. Pour the mixture on the 1/4 cup pickle relish fruit wine
7. Transfer onto platter and cooked sotanghon noodles, 1 tablespoon sugar 1 can soda (preferably 7-Up)
serve warm. toss and serve. salt and pepper, to taste ice cubes
2 whole eggs, beaten HGLEOH RZHUV IRU JDUQLVK
Black Gold Rellenong Manok 1/2 cup butter
Serves 4 Serves 6 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1. In a shaker, add dragon
fruit wine, soda and ice
1/4 kilo sotanghon noodles 1 whole chicken, deboned 1. Marinate chicken in cubes. Shake until cold.
water, for boiling 1 tablespoon calamansi juice calamansi juice, soy sauce 2. Pour into a highball glass
 WDEOHVSRRQV FRRNLQJ RLO 1 tablespoon soy sauce and sugar about one hour or and garnish with edible
FORYHVJDUOLFPLQFHGb 1/2 tablespoon sugar overnight. RZHUV

72 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


Turmeric, the wonder spice

Having long been used in India and China
for thousands of years as both a spice and a
medicinal herb, turmeric contains curcuminoid
compounds, the most important of which
is curcumin. This has very powerful anti-
Those who take turmeric tea, or regularly eat
dishes that contain turmeric, swear by its ability
to effectively lessen pain and improve their
general well-being. Find delicious turmeric
recipes on page 80..

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 73

HOME BASICS | light & right

Benefit from turmerics touted health properties,

or simply enjoy its gastronomic goodness
Text and recipes by DAT U S H A RIFF PE N DAT U N III
Photography by PAU LO VA L E N ZU E L A | Styling by TIN A CONCE P CION DIA Z | Props styling by ATH E N A FREGILL A N A

urmeric, sometimes called yellow ginger, figures On its own, turmerics flavor may be polarizing

T prominently in the ancient healing practice of

Ayurveda where its use varies from acting as
a cold remedy to the treatment of hysteric fits.
Turmeric also has a place in traditional Filipino
healing methods. A few years back, an uncle who had
just suffered a stroke was advised to drink the juice of
freshly grated turmeric as a means to keep him healthy.
to the palate, but when used with other aromatic
ingredients such as lemongrass and ginger, the spice
lends a pleasant subdued pepperiness. The rhizome
is also a prolific colorant as it provides curries and
mustards with a lovely golden tint. There was a
time when only its powdered form was available,
but nowadays, fresh turmeric is widely accessible in
And it worked! markets and groceries.

74 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Rice Ilonggo-style
This fried rice recipe is
a nod to the Negrense
guinamos na bihod. In
preparing the guinamos, Monggo Soup with soaked overnight and
IUHVKVKURHLVSUHVHUYHG Free-range Chicken softened
in coconut sap vinegar. Serves 6 to 8 6 cups coconut water or
It is then sauted in oil water
and, more often than 2 heads Ilocos garlic, peeled 1/2 cup strong Malabon
not, mixed with rice. and minced or Vietnamese patis VK
The addition of turmeric 1 large red onion, peeled sauce), undiluted
enlivens the color of the and sliced lengthwise
dish. 1/4 cup coconut oil 1. Lightly brown Ilocos
1 cup quartered ripe tomato garlic and onions in coconut
Bihod Fried Rice 3 tablespoons ginger, oil.
Serves 4 to 6 peeled and sliced 2. Add in tomato and ginger.
crosswise, very thinly Saut until soft.
1/2 cup coconut oil 1/2 kilo free-range chicken, 3. Mix well and cover pot.
1/2 cup Ilocos garlic, peeled cleaned and sliced a la Cook until juices are boiling.
and minced tinola 4. Add in chicken,
1/4 kilo tuna roe, sliced into 3 bulbs lemongrass, tied lemongrass, turmeric and
small pieces into a bunch, bulbs softened monggo. Simmer
1/2 cup vinegar pounded until chicken is cooked to
1 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 tablespoon turmeric, desired tenderness.
1 tablespoon ginger, peeled peeled and grated 5. Pour in coconut water or
and minced 2 cups monggo (mung water to adjust if needed.
patis, as needed beans), labo variety, Season to taste with patis.
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
4 cups cooked day-old rice,
loosened with a little

1. Lightly brown garlic in oil.

2. Add tuna roe, vinegar,
turmeric, ginger, patis and
black pepper. Stir often to
release roe from the sac.
3. Cook until liquid has
evaporated, and mixture is
4. Stir in cooked rice
until roe mixture is well

Two soups in one

This dish may be
interpreted as a union
of two traditional
favorites: monggo guisado
and binakol na manok.
The use of turmeric
is complemented by
lemongrass and ginger,
making the broth intense

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 75

HOME BASICS | light & right
Inihaw na Tiyan ng 4. Pan grill or grill over
Bangus charcoal until done.
Tasting the south with Salted Egg 5. Serve with sambal
This rendition of inihaw is inspired by Southern Sambal (recipe below).
Philippine and Indonesian techniques. In Sulu, some Serves 4 to 6
with an aromatic paste, and then grilled. In various 1 tablespoon turmeric 1 cup quartered
with dried anchovies or fermented shrimp pastes. The 1 head Ilocos garlic, 1/2 cup Ilocos garlic,
richness of salted egg yolk replaces seafood in this peeled peeled
version. The sambal, of course, is also drawn from the 1 teaspoon black 3 siling pangsigang
traditional Filipino tomato and salted egg relish. peppercorns JUHHQQJHUFKLOLHV 
2 teaspoons rock salt sliced crosswise
2 tablespoons coconut oil 1 cup red onion, sliced
1/2 kilo or 4 slices 5 salted egg yolks,
bangus PLONVK  mashed
belly 3 tablespoons coconut
palm sugar
1. Pound turmeric, Ilocos 1/2 cup coconut oil
garlic, black peppercorns
and rock salt to a paste. 1. Place all ingredients in a
2. Add in coconut oil little blender or food processor.
by little while pounding 2. Blend until mixture
for a smoother paste. turns into a coarse paste.
3. Coat bangus slices with 3. Cook paste in a pan
paste and marinate for an until oil separates from the
hour. paste.

76 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

HOME BASICS | simply desserts

Mini Honey Buns with

Honey Caramel Sauce

Serves 6

with 1/2 cup butter, softened
1/3 cup honey
2 teaspoons ground
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 squares frozen puff pastry,
thawed in the refrigerator


Give sugar a break 1/2 cup honey
and let this liquid gold hile honey is often used to
1 tablespoon salted butter
1/2 cup whipping cream
bring depth of flavor
and balanced sweetness
to your desserts
W sweeten drinks and is popular as
a quick drizzle over pancakes and
sweet breads, its not the top-
of-mind sweetener for baking.
But what it does to desserts should pique
every bakers interest. With honeys thick
consistency and golden amber color, cakes take
3KRWRJUDSK\ E\ on a rich hue, acquire a moist texture and good LQWR HDFK PXIQ FXS
PAU LO VA LE N ZU E L A bite. It makes short work of the caramelizing 3. ,Q DQRWKHU ERZO FRPELQH
process, as it is already thick and gooey. VXJDU DQG UHPDLQLQJ
Cookies and bars with honey are definitely FLQQDPRQ 6HW DVLGH
chewier than those made with conventional 4. 3ODFH D VKHHW RI SXII
recipes. With honeys many health and SDVWU\ RQ D RXUHG VXUIDFH
culinary benefits going for it, its high time to 6SUHDG KDOI RI WKH UHPDLQLQJ
make it an indispensable ingredient. EXWWHU PL[WXUH RQ WKH



FOOD |2016 Issue 2 77

HOME BASICS | simply desserts

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon RYHQ ORRVHQ HGJHV DQG FRRO IRU 
3/4 cup washed sugar 5. 7R PDNH WKH FDQGLHG RUDQJHV
zest and juice of 3 oranges, to ZKLOH FDNHV DUH EDNLQJ SODFH
make 3/4 cup juice KRQH\ LQ D VDXFHSDQ DQG OHW LW
2 oranges, sliced into thin rounds, EDNLQJ WUD\ OLQHG ZLWK QRQVWLFN
preferably with a mandolin SDSHU 5HSHDW ZLWK WKH UHVW RI

78 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


3. Wound healing properties. When


4. Cough and cold remedy.7DNLQJ

HGJHV EHIRUH WXUQLQJ LW 5. Antioxidant properties. +RQH\

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 79

HOME BASICS | cooking class

Thai Curries,
Three Ways One basic technique, three kinds of authentic Thai curries
Recipes courtesy of K H U N JA of BE N JA RO NG TH AI RE S TAU R A N T, DUSIT T H A NI M A NIL A
Photography by PAU L DE L ROSA RIO

itting all the important flavor notes (sweet, cook the meat (either separately or in the same pot)

H salty, spicy, sour), Thai curries are relatively

easy to learn, but they take a lifetime to perfect.
Although there are hundreds of variants of Thai
curries, almost all of them employ one basic
method: saut the aromatics and curry paste, pour in
the cooking liquids, add the sugars and fish sauce, and
and vegetables. Chef Khun Ja of the award-winning
Benjarong Thai Restaurant in Dusit Thani Manila
showed us the step-by-step technique for making
three authentic kinds of Thai curries, which you can
easily recreate at home for your friends and family to

Geang Khiao
Wan Gai (Green
Curry Chicken)
The most popular kind
of Thai curry, green
curry chicken is also
considered to be the
spiciest of Thai curries.

80 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Geang Khiao Wan Gai
(Green Curry Chicken)
Serves 1

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

3/4 cup coconut milk,
3 tablespoons
green curry paste
1/2 cup sliced
chicken breast
1 cup + 2 1/2 tablespoons
chicken stock

3 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon Over medium-high heat, pour the oil into a pot or deep
panocha (palm sugar) saucepan. Heat until shimmering. Pour in 2 to 3 tablespoons
WHDVSRRQVUHQHGVXJDU of coconut milk, and heat until boiling.
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon
1/3 cup sliced eggplant
1/4 cup fresh Thai basil
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon
chili leaf juice (recipe


1/2 cup sliced chili leaves
1/4 cup water

2 3
Steep chili leaves in water In the hot coconut milk, stir-fry the Add remaining coconut milk and
for 5 minutes. In a separate green curry paste and kaffir lime leaves chicken stock, then season with palm
bowl, squeeze juice out of until fragrant. Add the chicken breast sugar, refined sugar and fish sauce.
soaked chili leaves. slices, then stir-fry until almost cooked.


Ja recommends the Nittaya
Thai Curry Pastes, avail-
able in large grocery stores
like Rustans Supermarket,
p ,
Landm mark
Makati and SM

Add the eggplant slices, and continue to cook. When the
eggplants and chicken slices are cooked, add the Thai
basil, red finger chilies and chili leaf juice. Continue to
cook for another 3 minutes, then remove from heat.

Benjarong Thai Restaurant

One of the very best Thai restaurants in Manila, this is where you can
enjoy royal Thai cuisine in an authentic Thai setting, complete with staff
in traditional silk costumes and the gentle sounds of the khim. Its menu
features classic, centuries-old recipes that have been passed down from
generation to generation. G/F Dusit Thani Manila, Ayala Avenue, Ayala
Center, Makati City, (02) 867-3333 ext 3351

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 81

HOME BASICS | cooking class

Geang Phed Moo Krob  WDEOHVSRRQV UHQHG VXJDU tablespoons coconut milk, and heat
(Red Curry Crispy Pork) 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon until boiling.
Serves 2 7KDL VK VDXFH 4. In the hot coconut milk, stir-fry the
1/4 cup sliced eggplant UHG FXUU\ SDVWH DQG NDIU OLPH OHDYHV
3/4 cup vegetable oil, 1/4 cup sliced pumpkin until fragrant.
divided 1/4 cup Thai basil leaves 5. Add all the coconut milk and chicken
150 grams pork belly  UHG QJHU FKLOLHV stock, then season with palm sugar,
1/2 cup + 2 1/2 UHQHG VXJDU DQG VK VDXFH
tablespoons coconut 1. Heat 1/4 cup of the vegetable oil 6. Add eggplant and pumpkin slices
milk, divided over medium-high heat. Deep-fry pork and continue to cook.
1/4 cup red curry paste belly until it becomes crispy. 7. When vegetables are cooked, add
 NDIU OLPH OHDYHV 2. Take off the heat, and let cool. When crispy pork belly cubes, Thai basil and
1/3 cup + 1 tablespoon completely cool, slice crispy pork belly UHG QJHU FKLOLHV &RQWLQXH WR FRRN IRU
chicken stock into cubes. Set aside. another 3 minutes, then remove from
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon 3. Heat remaining vegetable oil over heat.
panocha (palm sugar) medium-high heat. Pour in 2 to 3

82 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Geang Massaman Nuea tamarind paste 3. In the hot coconut milk, stir-fry
(Massaman Curry Beef) 1/3 cup diced potatoes Massaman curry paste and cinnamon
Serves 2 1/4 cup sliced onions sticks until fragrant.
2 teaspoons cashew nuts, 4. Add all the coconut milk and beef
1 cup vegetable oil, divided toasted stock, then season with palm sugar,
150 grams beef, sliced into 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon VK VDXFH DQG WDPDULQG SDVWH
smaller cubes peanuts, toasted 5. Turn the heat down to low. Add
3/4 cup coconut milk, divided the seared beef cubes. Let cook for
1/4 cup Massaman curry paste 1. Heat 1/2 cup of the vegetable oil approximately 1 hour until the beef is
1 to 2 cinnamon sticks over medium-high heat. Sear beef tender.
1 cup beef stock cubes in hot oil until brown. Set aside. 6. When the beef is cooked through,
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon panocha 2. Heat the rest of the vegetable oil add potatoes, onions and cashew
(palm sugar) over medium-high heat. Pour in 2 to 3 nuts. Continue to cook for another 15
 WDEOHVSRRQ 7KDL VK VDXFH tablespoons of coconut milk, and heat minutes, then remove from heat.
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon until boiling.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 83

HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

instantly Craft these delicious
bites to welcome guests
at your next party


oure throwing a Sesame Seed Tuna Balls 2 tablespoons soy sauce

Y cocktail party and

youve only got a short
time to prep. Why
not make bite-size
canaps? Theyre a kind of
hors doeuvre that are small,
usually decorative, and can
Serves 4

150 grams fresh tuna,

cut into small cubes
juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon capers, minced
salt and pepper, to taste
fresh coriander leaves, for garnish

1. In a bowl, combine tuna, lemon juice

and capers. Season with salt and pepper.
Form mixture into balls.
2. Coat tuna balls in black and white
sesame seed mix. Put them in the
be consumed cold or at room 1/4 cup black and white sesame seeds freezer for about 1 hour.
temperature. Executive chef cooking oil, for deep frying 3. In a pan, heat oil. Deep fry the tuna
Arnold Guevarra of Midas balls in oil.
Hotel and Casino shows us how SAUCE: 4. To make the sauce, in a casserole,
fast and easy it is to put together 1/4 cup brown sugar combine brown sugar, water, chilies and
these sophisticated international 1/2 cup water soy sauce. Cook over low heat. Reduce
canaps perfect for your last- 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chilies sauce until slightly thick in texture. Add
minute cocktail party. salt and pepper if needed.

An appetizer with
Asian notes
Spicy, salty and slightly
sweet, these tuna balls
will appeal to everyone.
To help the balls cohere
better so they dont fall
apart during cooking,
be sure to put them in
the freezer for a few
hours before frying. You
can serve the tuna balls
on their own, or place
on a slice of toasted
bread or in a tartlet
shell, garnished with
fresh coriander leaves.

84 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Asparagus Involtini
Serves 4 to 6

20 asparagus tips
10 slices air-dried meat like prosciutto
or salami Milano, sliced in half
sage leaves, as needed
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup light mayonnaise
zest and juice of 1 lemon
pepper, to taste

1. Bring a pan of salted water to a boil,

drop in the asparagus and cook for 2
minutes until just tender. Drain well.
2. Wrap a half slice of dried meat or
salami around the middle of each
asparagus tip. Add a few sage leaves
and a dash of mustard on each
3. Mix mayonnaise with lemon zest
and juice and pepper. Serve as a
dipping sauce with the asparagus tips.

Asparagus and dip,

Italian style
Traditionally, an involtini
is a bite-size canap
that consists of some
kind of outer layer
(usually a thin sheet of
pasta dough) wrapped
made with Parmesan or
pecorino cheese. Here,
Chef Arnold takes the
idea of bacon-wrapped
asparagus yakitori, and
replaces the bacon
with air-dried meat like
salami or prosciutto,
thus eliminating the
need to cook them.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 85

HOME BASICS | 30 minutes or less

Feta and Watermelon Salad 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil Midas Hotel
Serves 6 to 8 black pepper, to taste and Casino
Inspired by the bequest set
by the buildings former
400 grams seedless 1. Cut watermelon in half and remove occupants, Midas Hotel and
or black beauty watermelon skin. Cut into 1/2 inch-thick triangles. Casino surfaced from its
1/2 cup feta cheese, diced Set aside. itself as a design-led lifestyle
(or substitute with any other 2. In a bowl, combine feta cheese, hotel. It approaches luxury as
cheese except mozzarella) mint leaves and olive oil. Season with an intimate, quirky experience,
with an out-of-the-box avant-
1 teaspoon fresh mint leaves, black pepper. Mix well. garde aesthetic created by
julienned 3. Arrange cheese mixture on top of WKHSURPLQHQWGHVLJQUP
2 teaspoons pistachio nuts, each watermelon. Serve. Atelier Almario. Midas Hotel
and Casino wholeheartedly
coarsely ground embraces its two culinary
gems. Its award-winning
restaurants, Midas Caf and
Yanagi Japanese Restaurant
to satisfy the senses. 2702
Roxas Boulevard, Pasay City,
(02) 902-0100 local 1018
(Yanagi) and 1187 (Midas Caf)

A Greek-style salad
in one bite
Healthy and all-around
good for you, this is
Chef Arnolds take on
toast points, using
sliced watermelon
instead of bread. Its
clearly inspired by
Greek cuisine, with its
combination of mint,
pistachio and salty
feta. You can substitute
the feta with any
cheese of your choice,
except mozzarella. We
recommend using Brie
or Camembert, or even a
strong blue cheese like

86 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


SAWSAWAN If youre tired of the usual suka,

specials toyo and calamansi combos, go for

these more unusual dipping sauces
to pair with your favorite dishes
Recipes by MITCHIE SISON | Photography by PAT M ATEO | Styling by A BY N ACH U R A | Props styling by ATH E N A FREGILL A N A

t would be unthinkable to ask

I for hot sauce or even salt at

a fine dining restaurant. This
would be insulting to the chef,
an indirect way of suggesting
that his or her creations are
bland. Not so for Filipinos, as
were used to being given free
reign to adjust the flavors on our
plates with our own customized
sawsawan or dipping sauces.
Chef Mitchie Sison shares her
original concoctions together
with suggested dishes to pair
them with.

Egg Salad
Serves 2

2 hard-boiled eggs,
roughly mashed
2 blanched tomatoes,
peeled and diced
1 tablespoon chopped
pinch of salt

Mix all ingredients and

squid for breakfast.

Ketchup Dip
Serves 2

2 tablespoons
distilled vinegar
1 tablespoon
tomato ketchup

Mix all ingredients.

Serve with your favorite
Filipino breakfast set:
your choice of viand with
egg and garlic rice.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 87

Eggplant Dip
Serves 3 to 4

1 whole roasted eggplant,

peeled and pured
2 cloves garlic, mashed
1/4 cup cane vinegar
1 teaspoon white sugar
dash of patis VK VDXFH

Mix all ingredients. Let sit for

30 minutes before serving.
Enjoy this with bulalo, pochero
or any grilled Filipino dish.

Lime Dip
Serves 2

2 tablespoons
sriracha hot
juice of 1/4 lime
2 teaspoons patis

Mix all ingredients

and pair with any
grilled or fried

88 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2 FOOD |2016 Issue 2 88


Mayo-Soy Dip
Serves 2

3 tablespoons
1 tablespoon
soy sauce
dash of togarashi
(Japanese chili

Mix all ingredients.

Enjoy the dip with
Japanese dishes like
maki, teriyaki and
teppan dishes.

Black Vinegar
and Garlic Paste
Serves 2

2 tablespoons
black vinegar
2 tablespoons Chinese
chili garlic paste
1 teaspoon grated
fresh ginger
drops of sesame oil

Mix all ingredients.

This paste works
best with dim sum
and other steamed
Cantonese dishes.

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 89


90 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2


n .
e nt
alluring cafs await
Photography by PIA PUNO
Produced by TROY BARRIOS

ts just my second visit to Davao, yet affected land travel, so that ten

I and Im pleasantly surprised to

find how this bustling metropolis
has retained its laid-back charm.
Homegrown restaurants and
refined dining ideas sit side by side
on tiny streets and in busy upscale
neighborhoods. Davao has a bounty
minutes by car is already deemed
quite far. And although Davao may
always be associated with pungent
yet tasty durian, fleshy mangosteen
and tangy pomelo, we discovered
that its culinary attractions definitely
go beyond its just being the fruit
of rich produce beautiful to behold: basket of the Philippines.
vivid green vegetables, resplendent The dining scene is dynamic,
multi-colored seafood, golden yellow constantly immersing itself in new
bananas, warm brown coffee beans influences while retaining a strong
all these constitute the ingredients connection with the past. Visitors
and foundations of a thriving dining who wish to understand the citys
scene. culture will find, within its myriad
The population is a distinct of restaurants, a gateway that allows
mix of native Dabawenyos, local you to savor a piece of Davao and
immigrants and foreign expatriates, its people at that particular point in
all with their own diverse tastes time. Its a beautiful way to get to
shaping the continuously evolving know the city, connect with its past,
local cuisines. Fortunately, a growing and create good memories for the
number of businesses, including new future.
hotel properties and malls, has not

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 91


A taste of home
that dish out
generous servings
of tradition
and history
Tiny Kitchen
This not-so-tiny space is
where owners Vincent and
Donna Rodriguez serve
Spanish cuisine inspired by
the Catalan food Vincent
grew up with. A native
Dabawenyo through and
through, Vincent is the
great-grandson of Amang
Rodriguez who famously The house paellas are
served as Senate President created with the traditional
under Manuel L. Quezon saccarat, a caramelized
and was one of Davaos bottom that yields to a
pioneering settlers. The crunchy texture. While the
menu of his restaurant, Paella Negra and Valenciana
however, is heavily will always be popular, try
influenced by the hearty out the Al a Cazador or
aromas and nuanced flavors hunters paella, made with
prepared by his Spanish beef, chicken, duck and
mother. INSPIRED pancetta. Vincent had to
Start with a (Clockwise look for local rice that would
from top)
mouthwatering Ensalada Paella Fideua,
produce a similar result to
Atun y Oliva, tender chunks Paella Al a the paella he grew up with.
of tuna, olives and tomatoes Cazador, Pollo Interestingly, they do not
drizzled with lemon and (recipe on offer pork viands, both for
coated with olive oil page 104), personal reasons and as a
perfection when paired Zarzuela thoughtful gesture towards
de Mariscos
with thick slices of freshly and Chorizo Davaos non-pork eating
baked bread (that Vince also con Gambas; residents.
oversees personally). Anna Vincent
Dulce Vida, the adjoining
Maria Salad, lovingly named and Donna bakery, is the domain of
after one of their children, Rodriguez; Vincents wife, Donna. Her
the tempting
combines fresh fruits, nuts, array of creations include YOLO
fresh cheese and greens in desserts at (You Only Live Once) that
what is undoubtedly one of Dulce Vida delectably combines sweet
the largest serving portions peanut butter with salted
in town. caramel for a once-in-a-
Seafood is definitely a lifetime indulgence, the Red
must-try, as Vincent is a Velvet Cheesecake, Caramel
big proponent of local fish Cheesecake and Tarte de
and seafood. Zarzuela de Chocolate, sheer chocolate
Mariscos is a bright seafood heaven with chocolate
medley in a thick tomato ganache over a dark
stew. Al a Basque con chocolate cake.
Patatas is a rustic plate of Tiny Kitchen and Dulce
fish fillets, shellfish, shrimps Vida offer creations that
and potatoes. A la Pobre con are perfectly nuanced, with
Cebollas y Patatas (baked fish each flavor creating its own
fillet with caramelized onions note in a balanced medley
and potatoes) is a hearty dish, that ends with that satisfying
of which every bite should be finish.
savored slowly.

92 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

from top
left) Triple
and Regal
Torte, Asian
Spicy Chicken,
Beef Mechado,
Chinese Pork
Belly in Red
Sauce and
assorted cake

Lachis Sans
Rival Atbp.
Twin brothers Michael and
Melvin Aviles named their
iconic dining spot after
their mother Mercedes,
nicknamed Lachi. What
they offer is unpretentious
comfort fare with all the
goodness that comes from
dishes awash with homemade
flavors. The twins have no
professional background
in baking but grew up
seeing their mom making
her famous sans rival and
cheesecakes, the recipes for
which they tweaked and
now offer at the restaurant.
Judging from the queues that
appear during peak hours,
they have a strong following been cooked slowly for six made with absolutely no of the Sans Rival and New
among locals and visitors. hours, and the Unforgettable preservatives. York Style Cheesecake,
Lachis secret lies in fork-tender Grilled Pork The cake has multi- Pecan Pie or Triple
the hands-on approach the Ribs, unsurprisingly one of colored variations begging Chocolate Cheesecake, with
brothers take in the baking their original bestsellers. for a taste. Their original its layers of dark, milk and
and culinary operations, Tried-and-true dishes include cakes include the ever- white chocolate ganache and
following what they call a Laing (both mild and spicy popular Sans Rival and New chocolate mousse.
low and slow principle versions), crisp and crunchy York Style Cheesecake, Lachis has lasted all
for their dishes. The menu Asian Spicy Chicken, which their mom has been these years by sticking to
boasts of family recipes they Chinese Pork Belly in Red baking since the 1960s. The its promise of homemade
grew up with, such as the Sauce, and Tango Tocino, twins have also added other goodness, with traditional
Three-Hour Beef Mechado, another feel-good family sensational sweets, following fare and comfort food worth
unctuous beef swimming in dish thats handed down for their no-shortcuts policy. lining up for.
a rich tomato sauce thats generations in their family, There are the durian flavors

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 93


Watering Holes
Olive Puentespina (left) in
her playground, the Cheese
Tasting Room, where fellow
cheese lovers get the chance
New havens that to share in her passion for
cheesemaking, savoring bites
will please your of La Maria (right) and sharing
stories in the perfect haven.
palate with their
own unique styles
Malagos Farmhouse
Cheese Tasting Room
An idyllic oasis in the middle
of Davao, the Malagos
Farmhouse Cheese Tasting
Room inside the Puentespina
Orchids compound is where
artisan cheesemaker Olive
Puentespina has set up a
private nook for wine and
cheese lovers to relax and
appreciate cheese.
Its about time we
provided a place for people
to enjoy our cheeses and be
more comfortable, Olive
says of the private enclave
she quietly opened last year. Queso Rustico (flavorful
Customers can book the washed rind cheese from
room for the evening and do fresh cows milk) or the
a structured cheese tasting, perfectly salty Pecorino
which Olive personally (aged goat cheese), plain or
oversees and customizes heated in the raclette pan
based on her guests for a stronger, more intense
preference. Since its debut in flavor. La Maria, Olives
2006, Malagos has become version of Camembert, is a
the epicenter for Davaos divinely creamy cows milk
artisanal cheese scene. cheese. Coaxed to bloom in a
Olive let us sample a basket, its best enjoyed after
range of her exceptional fresh its been aged for 45 days. We
and aged cheese selections, tried it with bread, drizzled
paired with wine and served with bignay nectar, then
in different ways. Fresh slightly grilled, before going
goat cheese, done kesong for seconds.
puti style, was sliced up for
a caprese salad, with fresh Huckleberry Southern SOUTHERN CHARM
Huckleberry Southern
tomatoes and slivers of basil. Kitchen and Bar Kitchen and Bar boasts
Since my fresh goat cheese A scion of the family that of modern Americana
has a texture similar to has owned and run historical cuisine, created with
locally sourced ingredients
buffalo mozzarella, this is a landmark, Apo View Hotel, in the heart of Davao
good introductory cheese. Chris Pamintuan wants to offered at very reasonable
With its low salt content, put his own stamp on the prices. Where else can
you savor half a dozen of
we had the choice of adding Davao dining scene. In the freshest and sweetest
more salt, drizzling olive December 2014, he opened oysters (right) for only
oil or bignay nectar, one Huckleberry Southern
of Malagos Farmhouses Kitchen, offering a different
products. type of southern cuisine. Fried Chicken, southern-
Olive has different The laid-back restaurant, style marinated and deep
variations of her creamy located at the basement of fried to yield just the right
fresh chvre, French-style the heritage Oboza house, balance of crisp skin and combines local pomelo bits
fresh goat cheese: there is has become a popular tender meat. Its best paired and dressing with grilled
chvre with dried mangoes, watering hole. The menu with homemade waffles or shrimp; Hot Fish and Chips,
or with green pepper gele created by executive chef corn muffins. Other items spicy deep-fried parrot fish
for a slight kick. Guests Kenneth Villaluz impresses include shrimp, Romaine fillets accompanied by a
can try a nicely balanced with specialties like Southern and Pomelo Salad, which cream cheese and leek dip

94 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

classic Southern
Fried Chicken and
excellently prepared
generously poured
out in an old
fashioned glass

Saging Repabliks
with Cajun fries. casually chic interiors
(top right), the perfect
Choice ingredients guide venue for menu favorites
the direction of the menu. like (clockwise from
center) Smoked Bangus
They smoke their own Pomelo Sanigang, the
who handles menu
bacon, Andouille sausages make-your- own-banana development, shares that
and jerk chicken. Even the FXH KDQGFXW DYRUHG their extensive offerings
Cavendish chips and
corn muffins and spicy Cajun Humbanana Cue. mean there is something
sauce are made in-house. for everyone. They make
The bar selection Filipino classics with a twist,
ranges from classics to like Smoked Bangus Pomelo
craft cocktails, with drinks Sanigang, deftly balancing
created by New York-based sweet, salty and sour flavors
mixologist Enzo Lim. Aside from the saba, pomelo bits
from having some of the and tinapa. The Humbanana
best tequilas in the world, Cue has its very own cashew
Huckleberry offers infused coated banana cue. Theres
rums made with local Davao Beer Batter Fish and Banana
produce like mangosteen, Chips, juicy fish fillets that
pineapple, mango, ginger, complement the hand-cut
sili and cacao, as well as sour cream and cheese
in-house syrup flavors of flavored banana chips.
ginger, demerara, grenadine, Snacks find the perfect
honey and cinnamon. treatment in Turon and
Signature cocktails include Banana Cue, the latter even
Huckleberry Hound, which Saging Repablik immerses you in a different getting its very own make-
combines an infused silli Who would have thought realm. your-own-banana-cue
rum with cinnamon syrup, you could build a restaurant I wanted a concept station. Guests can choose
lemon and grapefruit juice around the banana? The that would showcase what from caramel, chocolate or
and orange bitters. The answer: Gatchi Gatchalian, Davao has, Gatchi says. white chocolate sauce and
Cacao Old Fashioned adds a owner of Saging Repablik The result is a one-of-a-kind ten assorted toppings for a
different layer to the classic and the person who made dining destination that allows customized banana cue.
cocktail with cacao rum, BluGr durian coffee guests to enjoy sagingese Gatchi and Chef Vicki
orange and chocolate bitters. popular. This innovative cuisine (his term for the are particularly proud of
Huckleberry entices entrepreneur envisioned a wide array of dishes with bringing street food into the
visitors to stay, unwind and place that celebrates bananas, banana ingredients), where restaurant while addressing
enjoy themselves with fine giving diners a unique everything from banana new trends they find.
fare and craft cocktails in gastronomic experience. vinegar, banana sauce,
its charmingly laid-back From the moment the banana catsup and Cavendish
ambiance. servers greet you with a banana chips are specially
cheerful Mabanana, created for the restaurant.
Saging Repablik immediately Chef Vicki Villanueva,

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 95


Idyllic Hangouts
For discerning
taste buds, these
urban getaways
and savory
escapes will do

Wynward Valley
Organic Vegetable
This garden-cum-restaurant
may be off-the-beaten
track but its commitment
to local food and organic
produce offers a garden-
to-table experience that is
worth the journey. Owner
Rodelio Carmelo Dalisay
is a biochemist by title,
but a farmer, scientist and
culinarian at heart, with
an almost encyclopedic
knowledge of the local
organic community. Located
inside his familys compound
just behind Abreeza Malls, A GARDEN RESTAURANT
Pioneering the farm-to- table concepts
the restaurant greets you in Davao, Wynward Valley Organic
with rows of green produce Vegetable Garden owner Rodelio
Dalisay (bottom right) whips out a
from kale and basil to more creative menu that showcases his
unique varieties of gynura, produce from (clockwise from top left)
purslane and kulitis. a Veggie Burger (recipe on page 104)
with homemade bread, Cajun-encrusted
It is a small rustic Salmon with mango salsa and organic
hideaway with roughly five black rice, Balsamic Chicken Pesto Pasta
tables and an eclectic menu (recipe on page 104) to a vibrantly
refreshing blue ternate calamansi juice
that reflects the increasing
variety being grown and Burger boasts of a filling
harvested in Davao. There veggie patty concocted from
are Mediterranean-inspired carrots, garbanzos, tofu,
dishes to cater to foreign kangkong, kulitis and sweet
guests with changes that potato tops.
respect the harvest and Dont think that this
growth cycle. What is place is only for vegetarians.
great is that the garden can Philly Cheesesteak satisfies
complement any kind of meat cravings, with its
cuisine, Dalisay declares. low-fat sirloin steak cooked ternate calamansi juice or
Sagbot Salad (sagbot in a special sauce topped guyabano cucumber mint
is Visayan for grass) is a with low-fat cheese served smoothie and sweet scoops
beautiful plate filled with a on homemade whole wheat of guyabano blue ternate ice organic awareness in Davao.
mixture of greens we often bread. Balsamic Shrimp Pesto cream.
overlook such as gynura, Pasta offers a different kind of Wynward promises RBG Bar and Grill
talinum, kulitis, purslane and pesto, combining basil with new discoveries for the Whether you need a quiet
alusiman, topped with slices the subtly sweet local shrub adventurous and open- interlude from shopping at
of tomatoes and cucumber. katuk. Roasted Organic minded, as its ever fertile- the adjacent SM Lanang, or
Edible blue ternate flowers Native Chicken is served minded owner looks forward want to treat your family,
add a touch of color, with with local black rice that he to his future crop of heat the RBG Bar and Grill at
homemade coco nectar sources from Marilog. resistant strawberries, the Park Inn by Radisson is a
orange vinaigrette making Drinks and desserts next batch of kimchi from his great choice. The menu of
the simple salad truly complete the circle, with cucumber harvest, and more classics also highlight local
delicious. A tasty Veggie vibrant beverages like blue activities to further propagate ingredients as savored in

96 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Eye-catching cakes,
handled by owner Letz
Santos, line the showcase
display near the entrance,
drawing attention to
signature cakes like Sikwate
and Banoffee, both of which
highlight Davaos local
produce of cacao beans and
bananas. A more intriguing
cake called Halo-Halo
actually recreates the iconic
Filipino dessert, layering
ube chiffon cake with leche
flan and other halo-halo
ingredients, topped with ice
An array of thirst-
quenchers, from rich
frapps, healthy yogurt
smoothies, cold coffees and
fruit smoothies appeal to its
diverse range of customers.
For both Apples and
RBGs menu balances
Letz, Caf Demitasse will
local and Western offers a range of filling meals, continue to improve, giving
dishes like (clockwise such as Spicy Beef Caldereta its customers the best value
from top left) Florentine
Pizza, RBG Classic with Cocomilk, Extra for money and best service
Burger, Shrimps Scampi Beefy Lasagna and Summer they can offer.
Pesto and Davao Dome Vinaigrette Salad. Owner
Cake Flamb
Apples Icasas oversees the
hot kitchen, including the
creation of recipes for this
the Green Mango Sinigang The dessert lineup
or in the Pasta de Davao includes a number of durian Delectable and eye-catching cakes at
with tuna, bihod (fish roe), items from ice cream to Caf Demitasse include (clockwise)
bagaybay (sperm sac) and cakes like the Davao Dome Sikwate, Banoffee and Halo-Halo Cakes
imbao (seashells). Some Cake Flambchocolate
new additions include the cake coated with chocolate
Shrimps Scampi Pasta using ganache and meringue,
local Davao shrimps, RBG spiked with durian flavor and
Porterhouse Steaks 18-day finished off with a flamb.
aged certified Angus beef Something unique is
and RBG Classic Burgera RBGs Supersize Family
create-your-own-burger Meal, a weekend treat that
special with Angus beef patty marries choices for appetizer,
on a sourdough bun, with soup, entre, vegetables,
greens, tomatoes, cucumber, starch, pasta, sides,
onions and cheese plus a complimentary desserts plus
choice of toppings such as drinks for a group of seven
bacon, grilled mushrooms, (their typical group size
grilled pineapple, coleslaw, on weekends). Since RBG
sliced pickles or a sunny side has no buffets, this entices
up egg. visitors with its attractive
Vegetarians can try the price and hefty meals.
thin-crust Florentine Pizza,
combining spinach, egg Caf Demitasse
and grilled tomatoes with Caf Demitasse certainly
pesto-Alfredo sauce or the provides its loyal customers
Four-Cheese Pizza with goat with a great selection of
ricotta, Parmesan, cheddar beverages, savory meals
and mozzarella. and tasty desserts. The caf

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 97

Pollo Rosmaria Malagos Farmhouse 180 grams cooked 1 cup gynura (Moluccan
(Rosemary Chicken) Fondue spaghetti spinach) leaves, optional
Recipe by Vincent Rodriguez Recipe by Olive Puentespina salt and pepper, to taste 1/2 cup diced carrots
Serves 4 Serves 6 to 8 1/2 cup mixed diced ripe 7 cloves garlic, peeled
tomatoes and white 1 medium white onion
1/8 cup oil 250 grams Malagos onions  FXS FRFRQXW RXU RU
400 grams fresh chicken, Farmhouse Karinina fresh sweet basil leaves substitute with wheat
cut into 3 to 4 pieces al Vino cheese, grated RXU
50 grams bacon 250 grams Malagos 1. In a nonstick pan, heat 1 egg, beaten, optional
or pancetta, cut into strips Farmhouse Peppato olive oil. Saut minced 1/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 white onion, chopped cheese, grated garlic until brown. Add salt and pepper, to taste
GDVK RI FKLOL DNHV 2 tablespoons cornstarch chicken and cook until done. 4 to 5 tablespoons
1/3 cup chopped liver garlic paste (recipe below) Add balsamic vinegar and vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon tomato paste 1 cup white wine reduce. Set aside. lettuce leaves, preferably
1/4 cup tomato sauce 1/2 teaspoon mustard 2. Deglaze the nonstick pan romaine lettuce
(recipe below) 1/8 teaspoon paprika with the remaining balsamic 5 to 6 whole wheat
1/8 cup white wine vinegar. Add fresh pesto and burger buns
1 cup beef stock 1. In a heavy-bottomed pot, simmer for a few minutes. low-fat mayonnaise,
ground pepper, to taste place all the ingredients Add cooked pasta and toss optional
1 whole garlic clove, and cook on low heat until in sauce. Season with salt sliced cucumbers
toasted, skin removed everything is blended nicely. and pepper. sliced tomatoes
1 to 2 teaspoons crushed 2. Serve in a fondue pot 3. Transfer pasta to a plate. 6 slices low-fat cheese,
rosemary with day-old bread, boiled Arrange the pieces of optional
1 teaspoon parsley marble potatoes, cured balsamic chicken on top.
meats, a bottle of white Garnish with tomatoes, 1. Place all patty ingredients
1. Heat oil in pan. Sear the wine and a pitcher of hot tea onions and fresh basil in a food blender, except
chicken pieces until brown. on the side. leaves. egg, soy sauce, salt and
Transfer to a plate. pepper.
tablespoons of chicken oil in On a wooden board, smash 1 2 cups fresh basil leaves, ingredients are coarsely
the pan, saut bacon strips, clove of garlic then sprinkle preferably Genovese basil, chopped. Then set on
then add chopped onion, with a little salt and pepper. or 1 cup fresh basil + 1 cup high speed until fully
FKLOL DNHV DQG OLYHU Using the side of a knife and katuk leaves (sweet leaf) incorporated.
3. Add tomato paste, tomato holding the tip steady, mash 2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3. Add egg and soy sauce
sauce (recipe below), white the garlic with a steady 1/4 cup cashew nuts and blend thoroughly. Add
wine, beef stock and pepper. pressing motion. 2/3 cup olive oil, divided salt and pepper to taste.
Simmer covered for 30 salt and pepper, to taste 4. Form mixture into patties,
minutes. CHEESEMAKERS NOTE 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese about 180 grams each.
4. Bake in oven at 275F for Karinina al Vino is a special 5. In a nonstick pan, heat
another 30 to 40 minutes, cows milk cheese created 1. Combine basil (or basil vegetable oil. Place patties
by Olive Puentespina using
or until your preferred + katuk leaves), garlic and DQG FRRN RQ ORZ KHDW UVW
Alp cheese starters. With
doneness is achieved. a washed rind, its aged for cashew nuts in a food 1 side for 10 minutes, then
5. Garnish with baked three months then dunked processor and pulse until the other side for 5 minutes.
potatoes and carrots. Serve and aged again in Malagos coarsely chopped. Set aside.
with toasted ciabatta slices. bignay wine. Peppato is an 2. Add 1/2 cup olive oil and 6. Place lettuce leaf on half
DJHG FKHHVH DYRUHG ZLWK continue blending until fully of a whole wheat burger
TOMATO SAUCE : green peppercorns grown incorporated and smooth. bun.
at Malagos Farms. You can
2 tablespoons olive oil experiment with other aged
Season with salt and pepper 7. Add cooked patty. Layer
1 chopped onion cheeses, but the taste will and add Parmesan cheese. with low-fat mayonnaise,
1 head garlic, minced not be the same. 3. To store pesto, place in an if using, sliced cucumbers
2 to 3 cups canned Malagos Farmhouse cheeses airtight container. Add 1/3 and tomatoes, and low-fat
chopped tomato are available at select outlets cup olive oil on top. It will cheese, if using. Top with
1 tablespoon white wine in Manila. For list, visit www. keep in the freezer for up to the other burger bun half.
salt and pepper, to taste malagosfarmhouse.com/stores 3 months. Serve immediately.

1. Heat olive oil in a pan. Balsamic Chicken Veggie Burger COOKS NOTE You can add
Saut onion, then add garlic. Pesto Pasta Recipe by Rodelio Dalisay 1 kilo lean ground beef or
2. Pour in canned tomatoes Recipe by Rodelio Dalisay Makes 5 to 6 patties turkey to this recipe. Just
and add white wine. Serves 1 reduce the amount of tofu
and garbanzos by half. The
3. Simmer until oil from PATTIES :
rest of the ingredients remain
tomatoes pools on the sides 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil 400 grams tofu
the same.
of the pan. Stir occasionally 1 garlic clove, minced 2 cans (450 grams)
for 30 minutes to an hour. 100 grams chicken breast, garbanzo beans, drained
Season with salt and pepper. sliced or cubed 1 cup kangkong leaves
1 tablespoon balsamic 1 cup malunggay leaves You can order herbs and
vinegar, divided 1 cup talinum (Ceylon vegetables from Wynward
Organic Garden,, which will be
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh spinach) leaves (or shipped to Manila via LBC or
pesto (recipe below) substitute with kamote JRS. Contact (0917) 323-3619 to
tops) request for the produce list

98 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Special thanks to Park Inn by Radisson Davao www.parkinn.com/davao

727 F. Torres Street, Mabini corner F. Torres
Davao City Streets, Davao City
(082) 282-2828 (082) 305-9232


SOUTHERN Park Inn by
KITCHEN & BAR Radisson Davao
Rizal Street corner Bangoy J.P. Laurel Avenue,
Street, Davao City Davao City
(082) 282-2586 www.parkinn.com/
Ruby Street, Marfori V. Mapa Street, Poblacion
Heights, Davao City District, Davao City
(082) 224-5552, (082) 286-9648
(0916) 984-1183 Hot meals in the skies
WYNWARD The problem with travel is you sometimes have to put up with
MALAGOS CHEESE VALLEY ORGANIC food thats blah and boring. Were so happy to have discovered
TASTING ROOM VEGETABLE GARDEN AirAsias Hot Mealsreal food bursting with flavor. Standouts
Bolcan Street, Regina Dalisay are Uncle Chins Chicken Rice, Vegetable Biryani and Nasi
Agdao, Davao Compound, Davao City Lemak. Prebook your meals via Airasia.com Manage My
(0917) 323-3619 Booking for the prices to drop.
20 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2
The bi-annual Power of
Pen workshop helps you
transform your passion
into words
Photos courtesy of STRAM EVENTS, INC.

uch of whats significant in

M our lives happen when we

share food, create memories or
simply have conversations over
food. These moments are so
deeply rooted in our culture and history,
that its only natural that food writing
has become essential in our lives.
Putting our passion for food into words
becomes necessary not only to preserve
our history but also to feed our soul.
Last February, Stram Events,
Inc. held a one-day food writing
workshop called Power of Pen at the
EDSA Shangri-La Hotel. Since 2009,
Power of Pen has helped aspiring and
seasoned writers in developing their
skills and expressing their love of food
into words. The literary event was
highly successful with six presenters
and 80 participants in attendance. The
speakers were leaders in their respective
fields, including chefs, a food historian,
journalists, and cookbook authors.
Esteemed historian Felice Sta.
Maria spoke about the importance of
using historical facts in food writing,
She explained how vital it is to write
about ones food to preserve a countrys
culinary heritage and identity. Author (Clockwise from top left) Power of Pen organizer and Stram Events, Inc. chief
Tetta Tirona; Bryan Koh and Gene Gonzalez; Cecilia Brainard; Ige Ramos; Gene
and editor Cecilia Brainard discussed Gonzales; Felice Sta. Maria with a fan; the panel of speakers; lunch and snacks
how ones love for food can be fodder were provided by EDSA Shangri-la. (Center) Felice Sta. Maria and Tetta Tirona
for essays and reviews, providing helpful
pointers and tips that she learned along writing about regional cuisines and the to enhance their creative process when it
the way. Chef Gene Gonzalez shared many challenges of a writer taking on comes to the art of writing about food.
his personal transition from chef- a foreign cuisine and country. Finally,
owner of Caf Ysabel to chef-instructor the duo of Amy Uy and Jenny Orillos The Power of Pen workshop is scheduled
to cookbook author to food editor capped the workshop with insights to be back in 2018. For more information,
and writer. He said there were vital about writing in tandem, sharing their contact Stram Events Inc. at
adjustments he had to make, especially experience in writing Panaderia: strameventsinc.com or follow Facebook:
with the dawn of social media and the Philippine Bread, Biscuit and Bakery Stram Events Inc
influx of culinary information on the Traditions.
web. Singaporean Bryan Koh, author of Closing the book on yet another
Milk Pigs & Violet Gold and Mont Hin successful workshop, this years Power of
Gar, tackled the prodigious topic of Pen helped participants learn new ways

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 101


A Taste of Japan with

Machiko Chiba Traditional Japanese cuisine
can be made modern with microwave cooking

hen it comes collaboration with Matsushita

W to cooking,
it is possible
(some say even
preferable) to
use new technology to help
further tradition. A perfect
example of this would be
Electronics in Japan, the
result is her patented
Cook Zen pot. Made with
polypropelene, a kind of
plastic that can tolerate high
temperatures, it cuts cooking
time down to a mere seven to
the work of culinary expert ten minutes. And this is good,
Machiko Chiba who came according to the Harvard
to Manila courtesy of Japans Medical School Family Health
Ministry of Agriculture, Guide: The cooking method
Forestry and Fisheries that best retains nutrients is
(MAFF). She was in town for one that cooks quickly, heats
two Taste of Japan cooking for the shortest amount of
demos to teach washoku or time, and uses as little liquid
Japanese traditional cuisine as possible. Microwaving
using one of mankinds meets those criteria.
greatest inventions, the At the Taste of Japan
microwave oven. cooking demos organized by
What is washoku? MAFF and held at Restaurant
Aligned with the Japanese 9501, Machiko showed us
philosophy of combining how to cook the washoku way
impeccable taste (including using adapted recipes from her
beautiful and artistic book, The Cook-Zen Cookbook.
presentation) and good All of these dishes took less
health, this traditional cuisine than ten minutes to cook in
is known for being visually her Cook-Zen pot! And the
and sensorially pleasing. In results were impressive as
2013, UNESCO even listed audience members enjoyed
washoku as an intangible sampling such dishes as
cultural heritage. Simmered Eggplant and Chili,
Now based in both Tokyo Japanese Clams Steamed with
and New York, Machiko Sake and Garlic, and even her
Chiba first encountered own spicy version of adobo.
the widespread use of the Easy to cook, delicious and
microwave oven in American healthy (she hardly uses oil
kitchens when she moved or fat), her recipes may be
to Pittsburgh with her modern but they still follow
husband several decades ago. the core of traditional Japanese
But she disliked it then as washoku.
it was usually only used for
reheating food. No effective For more on Taste of Japan,
implements for microwave visit www.tasteofjapan.jp.,
cooking had been invented The Cook-Zen Cookbook and
yet. So, Machiko thought, her patented Cook-Zen pot
why cant she try to make the can be purchased on Amazon.
Machiko Chiba shows us how to make pastry cream in her patented Hello Kitty
right cooking tool herself? In Cook-Zen pot; Host of the event, Chef Myrna Segismundo poses with Machiko
and her daughter, acclaimed pianist Akiko Special thanks to WHIRLPOOL.

102 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Green Beans and Fried Tofu Special Spicy Pork Adobo
Serves 2 Serves 2

150 grams green beans 300 grams pork shoulder

1 sheet (50 grams) fried tofu 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon olive oil 150 cc rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce 6 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dashi stock or water 1 teaspoon chili pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar (red crushed chili), if desired
1 tablespoon Yanninjyan
1. Wash the string beans and cut them (Korean spicy paste)
in 5cm length. Cut the tofu in half, and 1 tablespoon olive oil Baked Apple
then julienne them in 5 mm slices. Serves 4
2. Place the string beans, fried tofu, 1. Cut the pork into cubes. 1 medium apple
and all of the remaining ingredients 2. Place all of the ingredients in the 2 teaspoons sugar
inside the Cook-Zen. Mix well, cover, Cook-Zen and mix well. Cover and heat 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
and heat in the microwave oven on in the microwave oven on medium-
medium-high for 4 to 5 minutes with high for 10 minutes with the steam 1. Wash and cut the apple into
the steam holes set to close. holes set to close. 4 slices, leaving the peel intact.
3. Serve this dish over rice. Remove the core by making the V
shape incision with a knife. Thinly
cut the apples into 1 to 2mm slices,
KITCHEN TESTERS NOTE: and place inside the Cook-Zen.
Since the Cook-Zen pot is not yet 2. Sprinkle the sugar and lemon
available in the Philippines, you can use
juice, cover, and heat in the
any heavy-duty plastic microwaveable
container with a lid. Adjust cooking times microwave oven on medium-high
accordingly since the dishes may take for 1 1/2 minutes with the steam
longer to cook. hole set to close.
3. Serve with custard cream if

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 103


Celebrating our Asian Culinary Heritage

Good Life serves
up an Asian feast
with Flavors
of Fortune: A
Celebration of
Good Life

eading food

L brand Good
Life recently
more than 16
years of bringing
authentic Asian
flavors to Filipino
kitchens by hosting
a grand Chinese
Entitled Good Life (Clockwise from top)
Flavors of Fortune: A A performance by the
Philippine Institute of
Celebration of Good Quezon City; host Janelle
Life, the event was Tee with Cook Off judges, Fly
Ace Corporation executives
held over four full days at the and the Cook Off grand prize
TriNoma Activity Center. winner, Culinary Champions;
A spectacular dragon and sumptuous dishes using Good
Life products by Chef Michael
lion dance by Philippine Sen Cheng; a noodle booth at the
Hua officially opened the Good Life Chinese Food Fair
Flavors of Fortune exhibit.
Partner schools also gave
colorful Chinese dances and
acrobatic performances.
Chefs Michael Cheng and Lifewhose name was
Lionel OHari Go of the inspired by the Chinese
Center for Culinary Arts, association of longevity with
Manila (CCA Manila) gave noodlescarries products
cooking demos, while noted like vermicelli, egg noodles,
food stylist Sharlene Tan bihon, sesame oil, oyster
conducted a food styling sauce and Japanese-style
workshop. The Good Life bread crumbs. Produced
Chinese Food Fair featured with top grade food quality
food samplings of different standards, Good Life
Good Life products, in products bring out the
partnership with CCA featuring calligraphy, modernized interpretation of genuine taste and flavor of
Manila. Also participating Chinese paper cutting, a traditional Chinese Lauriat, favorite Asian dishes.
were Ho-Land Hopia and lantern making, feng shui using Good Life products as
Bakery, Masflex Cookware readings and more. the main ingredients. After Good Life is a food brand
& Kitchenware, Tai Chi The festival highlight nearly five hours, the grand under Fly Ace Corporation.
Guyasteen and Waters was the first ever Good Life winners were the Culinary Visit www.flyacecorp.
Philippines. Chinese Culinary Cook Off. Champions team, with the com. Good Life products
Rounding out the festival Four teams or houses of award for Best Overall Dish, are available in all major
were walk-through themed CCA Manila students battled Vermicelli Taro Snapper, supermarkets and grocery
exhibits of Bahay Tsinoy and it out to test their culinary going to Michelle Lim of stores nationwide. Like
Lingnan Style Paintings, as skills, taste and creativity in Culinary Champions. Good Life on Facebook
well as interactive activities coming up with their own Since 2000, Good (goodtastegoodlife).

104 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Madrid Fusin Manila Around Town
The three-day MFM 2016 spawned a host of related events, including
chefs collaborative dinners, Spanish tapas, and mall events aplenty


Three talented chefs
Themed Four Mexicos Jorge Vallejo of
Hands Dinner: Quintonil, Koreas Jungsik
Aboard the Flavor Yim of Jungsik and the
Galleon, this Philippines (by way of
collaborative Spain) Chele Gonzalez
dinner between of Gallery Vaskrecently
Chef Jungsik Yim pulled off a spectacular Six
and The Tasting Hands 15-course dinner
Rooms chef de held at Gallery Vask. Among
cuisine William the standout dishes, Chef
Mahi was a superb Jungsik made a traditional
introduction Korean rice bowl but added Mexican-Filipino connection
to modernist techniques Korean restaurant Jungsik extra layers of flavors with with his dessert called Pintos,
applied to Korean food. The in Seoul. Chef William is sea urchin, fresh tuna featuring corn tamales,
chefs made use of traditional known for his progressive with calamansi and toyo, smoked corn kernels and
ingredients like sea urchin, and alternative culinary rice, sesame, fried quinoa. burnt milk ice cream. The
kimchi, rice, seaweed and style combining traditional Chef Jorge took Mexican dinner was a phenomenal
kimbugak to create dishes French techniques with ingredients to new heights, success as it brought together
of masterful artistry and molecular gastronomy. playing with toasted avocado, talented chefs from diverse
nuanced flavors. Considered Crown Towers, City Serrano pepper, charred culinary backgrounds who
the king of new Korean of Dreams Manila, onion and, surprisecreamy shared their experiences
cuisine, Chef Jungsik runs (02) 800-8080, www. ant eggs flavored with epazote. through food. www.
his eponymous modern cityofdreamsmanila.com.ph Chef Chele referenced the galleryvask.com

Chef Dani Garcas Dinner with the Stars at New World Manila Bay
Chef Dani Garca of two The Little Prince, Chef Dani of Chef Dani. Paired with
Michelin-starred Restaurante prepared a multi-sensorial Spanish wines courtesy of
Dani Garca in Marbella, extravaganza involving a Philippine Wine Merchants,
Spain held court at the New wall-to-wall LED screen the dinner was more than
World Manila Bay for two with visions of water and just a meal, it was culinary
once-in-a-lifetime dinners fire, a recreation of a desert theater of the highest order.
that gave diners a glimpse with sculptures by Impy New World Manila Bay
into the fertile imagination Pilapil, and 10 glorious dishes Hotel, 1588 Pedro Gil corner
of a master chef. Inspired by that revealed the cocina M. H. del Pilar, Manila, (02)
Antoine de Saint Exuprys contradicin philosophy 252-6888

Spanish Foodfest at Diamond Hotel Manila

Diamond Hotel Manila held Fiesta de Sabores Espaola, a Spanish
food festival at Corniche, its premier dining outlet. Guest chef Edgard
Sanuy Barahona prepared an authentic Spanish spread, including such
sumptuous dishes as Pork Ribs Stew with potato and paprika, Eggplant
Escalivada with pine nuts, marinated Lamb Skewers, T-Bone with mojo
picon and mustards, and much more. Chef Edgard comes from Lleida,
Spain, from a family of famous chefs and was hailed Chef of the Year 2013
by Foodie Magazine in Hong Kong. The event was held in partnership
with Titania Wine Cellar, Inc. Diamond Hotel Manila, Roxas Boulevard
corner Dr. J. Quintos Street, Manila, (02) 528-3999

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 105


The best of Spain at Tapas Night 2016 Celebrating

the fusion
Hosted by the Spanish
Embassy, Tapas Night
of flavors at
celebrated the best of Spanish SM malls
food and wine. Nine of the In partnership with the
most respected Spanish Department of Tourism
chefs in the city prepared and Madrid Fusin
mouthwatering small plates, Manila through Flavors
including standouts like of the Philippines, SM
Fabada Asturiana, a Jamn Supermalls brought the
Serrano sushi with tomato and MFM 2016 experience
soya mayonnaise, and grilled closer to their customers
octopus with with the launch of
romesco crumbs Fusion Flavors, a series
and vanilla- of Madrid Fusin-
scented potato, inspired events held at
plus lots of cheese, SM Malls nationwide.
chorizo and These included in-depth
jamn. Spanish culinary demos featuring
wines and liquors locals chefs from Salon
were provided by de Th, Vikings, Todd
AWC, Barcino, English, Ogetsu Hime
Terrys Selection, and Caf Laguna, plus
Premier Wine & a weekend market
Spirits. Participating Spanish Juan Carlos de Terry of Terrys Diaz of Barcino, Amado showcasing regional
chefs were Pablo Lopez of Selection, Pepe Lopez of Garcia Fernandez of Pablo specialties and desserts
Donosti, Chele Gonzalez of Rambla and Las Flores, Carlos Bistro and Justo Rodrigo from Asia and Europe.
Vask, Ivan Saiz of Arrozeria, Garcia of Black Pig, Nicolas Lopez of Txanton.

Mama Sita and Food Writing

A taste of Bordeaux
Celebrating Filipino all over the country, and For the first time, the wine tasting featured superb
culture and cuisine, the one winning entry was Bordeaux Rendezvous, an whites: Chteau Giraud 2012
Mama Sita Foundation held sent from Virginia, USA, annual series of wine tastings and 2014 from Sauternes,
an awarding ceremony for written by a Filipino expat featuring Bordeaux vintages, and Chteau Malartic-
the winners of its annual who craved the flavors was held in Manilathe Lagravire 2010. Wonderful
food writing competition, of home. Entries can be last stop of its Asian tour. reds, bottled in the past
Mga Kwentong Pagkain, sent in as written essays, Wines from 18 classified decade from different estates
last month at Ilustrado poetry and videos. This growths from the Bordeaux include: Chteau Talbot
Restaurant in Intramuros. years judges include region, the largest wine- 1996, Chteau Clerc Milon
It was a festive occasion such luminaries as Felice producing region in France, 2009 and Chteau Brane-
that included a rondalla Sta. Maria, Ige Ramos, came care of French wine Cantenac 2010.
playing folk songs. Clara Fernando Zialcita, merchant Barriere Frres in Later in the evening,
Reyes Lapus, daughter Nancy Reyes-Lumen and partnership with local wine an unforgettable wine
of Teresita Mama Sita Eduardo Lapiz. For more importers. The first event dinner was held at La
Reyes, and president of information about Mga was a lunch at Txanton for Veranda, Sofitel Philippine
the Foundation, gave Kwentong Pagkain, visit media, F&B professionals, Plaza Manila where guests
the welcoming remarks. msita.com/mga-kwentong- wine connoisseurs and enjoyed the wines with the
Contestants come from pagkain private customers. The buffet.

106 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Dusit Hospitality Management College Opens in 2017
Filipinos know and love the longstanding Dusit
Hotel Manila in Makati. Now, the Dusit brand is
expanding into hospitality education with Dusit
Hospitality Management College (DHMC) soon
to rise in Bonifacio Global City. Among hospitality
colleges in the country, DHMC differentiates itself
thanks to its partnership with Switzerlands prestigious
Ecle Hotelire de Lausanne and Frances celebrated
Institut Paul Bocuse which will contribute their
expertise in hospitality management and culinary
studies to the DHMC undergraduate and executive
education programs. Giving students a further edge,
Dusits contemporary hotel brand, dusitD2, will be
fully integrated with the school, allowing students the
benefit of training in an international hotel. Slated to
open in 2017, DHMC touts state-of-the-art facilities,
innovative curricula and world-renowned expertise,
coupled with its hallmark of Asian hospitality.

The Food of the

Land Down Under
Australia is a gastronomic paradise, with its rich coffee
culture, a vast selection of wines, and what is purported
to be the best lamb in the world. At Celebrate Australia:
Say GDay at SM, a joint project of the Australian
Embassy and SM, Australias no. 1 coffee brand Vittoria
Coffee (distributed by Wine Depot locally) was among
some of the proudly-made Australian products on
display. But it wasnt just coffee: plenty of purple and
pink lamingtons (originating from Australia, its a kind
of cake thats rolled in ganache and dessicated coconut)
were also served at the event. Clearly, theres so much
JOLLY UNIVERSITY more culinary goodness to be discovered and explored
YEAR 3 CROWNS NEW in the Land Down Under.
JOLLY University was back for its third year as the
countrys top education-oriented competition for culinary
students, involving a three-day Boot Camp for student
nalists, the rst JOLLY University Congress, and the
culminating Grand Cook-Off Challenge. Held at The
Pavilion in Pasay, the culinary showdown was attended
by hundreds of students, food enthusiasts, media, and
executives of the brand owner and exclusive distributor
of JOLLY food line, Fly Ace Corporation. Cooking
with JOLLYs various canned fruits and vegetables and
other Fly Ace products, student competitors vied for
various individual and team categories, with winners
emerging from La Consolacion College, University of
Santo Tomas, Far Eastern University and Philippine
Womens University. The grand champions won cash and
gift prizes, plus the opportunity to participate in JOLLY
brand projects including recipe development and culinary
training. Visit www. jolly.com.ph, www.flyacecorp.com
and Jolly Eats on Facebook

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 107


eats with
Expert chefs showed
us how to make
delicious sandwiches,
pasta and summer
coolers during the
first FOOD Tastings
of the year

o celebrate FOOD Magazines

T Have Fun with Bread issue,

FOOD Tastings held its
first event of the year, called
Summer Picnic Eats last March
at The Block, SM North EDSA. With
more than 100 of FOOD Magazines
friends and fans in attendance, culinary
experts and chefs showed how to make
easy, delicious dishes and drinks perfect SNACKS AND DRINKS
for summer, and for fun times with (Clockwise from top):
family and friends. Johnlu Koas French-
inspired Croque
Johnlu Koa, founder of The French Monsieur and Croque
Baker, demonstrated how to make Madame; Kharolyn
Ang and Liezl Lucena
French classic sandwiches Croque of Kumori Japanese
Monsieur and Croque Madame using Bakery; Sticky Toffee
excellent breads from The French make scrumptious breads from scratch, Dessert Baby by Chef
Dianne Kieth Dino of
Baker. Chef Eau Lautriso of Bakers like creamy Peach Brioche. For the Caf Shibuya; Portia
Maison made healthy sandwich fillings finale, Chef Dianne Kieth Dino of Caf Baluyut presents her
for Italian Ciabatta, and Dried Mangoes Shibuya put together a Sticky Toffee Coffee Bubble Cooler

and Chicken Baguette. Celebrity chef Dessert Baby, an unabashedly decadent

Tatung Sarthou did a different take on dessert thats similar to the Honey Milk
spaghetti by making Chilled Summer Toast we featured on FOOD Magazines
Spaghetti using assorted fruits and Arla Have Fun with Bread cover.
feta cheese, making it perfect for the
summer heat. Special thanks to Arla, Moulinex,
Lifestyle TVs Portia Baluyut of The French Baker, Kumori Japanese
A Pinch of Portia and Isabelo Garden Bakery, Bakers Maison, Caf Shibuya,
Restaurant used luxuriously rich Arla Brownies Unlimited, and our official
cream to make refreshingly delicious venue partner, SM North EDSA. Check
Coffee Bubble Cooler. Chefs from out FOOD Magazine on Facebook for
Kumori Japanese Bakery, Kharolyn Ang announcements on the next FOOD
and Liezl Lucena, demonstrated how to Tastings events.

108 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

Chilled Summer like Gruyre or Emmental
Spaghetti soft butter, for spreading
By Tatung Sarthou on bread
Serves 6 to 8 1 fried egg, sunny side up,
for Croque Madame
500 grams spaghetti,
cooked al dente 1. Spread bchamel sauce
olive oil, for drizzling (recipe below) on one side of
2 cups Greek yogurt 2 slices of bread.
1/4 cup honey 2. Place a piece of ham on
1 yellow onion, top of slice bread topped
minced thinly with bchamel.
CHEFS ON STAGE salt and white pepper, 3. Place a slice of cheese
(Clockwise from top): to taste on top of the ham. Cover
Chefs and culinary 1 cup cucumber, seeded cheese with the remaining
experts receive gift
baskets from Arla and diced slice of bread, with the
Foods with FOOD 1 cup tomato, seeded bchamel side down.
Magazines editor-in-
chief Nana Ozaeta
and diced 4. Spread softened butter on
and Arla Foods Trade 1 cup pineapple tidbits, the 2 exposed sides of the
Marketing Supervisor drained bread.
Sheena de Leon;
Chilled Summer 1 cup fresh ripe mango, 5. Grill sandwich on both
Spaghetti perfect for diced sides until grill marks show.
picnics; Chef Tatung 1 cup boiled or grilled 6. Remove from grill and top
Sarthou demonstrates
his chilled spaghetti chicken, diced one side of grilled sandwich
recipe; Chef Eau Arla diced feta cheese with a slice of cheese. Place
Lautriso of Bakers
Maison gets help from
in an oven toaster and allow
a volunteer audience 1. Toss cooked pasta with a cheese to melt.
member; The French little olive oil and let chill. 7. To make a Croque
Bakers very hands-on
founder Johnlu Koa 2. Season yogurt with honey, Madame, place a sunny
onion, salt and pepper. side up fried egg on top of
3. Toss the yogurt mixture melted cheese.
over the pasta. 8. Serve sandwich with fries,
4. Mix in the cucumber, chips or a side salad with
tomato, pineapple, mango, vinaigrette.
chicken and Arla feta
cheese. Serve cold. BCHAMEL SAUCE:
2 tablespoons butter
Croque Monsieur et 2 tablespoons
Croque Madame Sil DOOSXUSRVH RXU
Vous Plat 1/2 cup milk
By Johnlu Koa pinch of salt
Serves 1 pinch of nutmeg

2 slices artisan bread, 1. In a skillet, melt butter

like honey wheat loaf, DQG DGG RXU :KLVN WR
walnut bread or French incorporate.
sourdough 2. Add milk, salt, nutmeg
(recipe below) 3. Let simmer for 30 seconds
1 slice forest ham or any and remove from heat. Set
similar quality ham aside.
2 slices Swiss cheese,

FOOD |2016 Issue 2 109

The Lace Maker
The late Luz Ocampo of Bulacan created beautifully intricate works of
art out of delicate pastillas wrappers and aromatic dayap fruit
Photography by SONNY YAMBAO

culinary tour of well. These fruits would also

A Bulacan was never

complete without
a sighting of Luz
Ocampo quietly
carving dayap in one corner.
This would usually be at one
of the old houses where a
be preserved in syrup and
like all food that are works of
art, they were sometimes just
viewed and admired rather
than eaten.
When asked if she
had passed on her art,
spread of traditional cooking Luz Ocampo said that the
was served, or in her own younger generation didnt
home where she displayed seem interested to learn and
the paraphernalia she used practice bordado. But when
in her arttiny scissors, little she passed away earlier this
scoops, small knives. year, we found out that her
Ocampos art is called daughter, Naty Ocampo Cruz,
bordado, the word for
embroidered. So whether she Luz Ocampo creating
carved fruit or cut wrappers bordado art in her
for pastillas, the local milk home in 2011

candy, she embroidered

her medium with intricate
designs that came from her
imagination rather than from
a set mold.
Born Luz Mendoza in
San Miguel de Mayumo,
Bulacan, Ocampo was
honed in the art of bordado
as part of Home Economics
lessons. In the school years
before the war, students were
expected to learn certain
skills no longer taught today.
It was decorative pastillas
wrappers she started with,
a kind of paper cutting on to reveal the designs all
Japanese tissue paper (papel connected.
de Hapon) used to wrap the An even more intricate
milk candies. Those were bordado is fruit carving. is continuing the
part of table art, locally First the juice and pith art of her mother.
known as pabalat, and could are removed from the That at least means
be taken home as a souvenir dayap (aromatic lime) that while table art is no
of the event. Popular motifs through a tiny hole at the When used as part of dessert, longer taught in schools and
included the celebrants bottom using a small scoop. it would be stuffed with Luz Ocampo is no longer
name, nipa huts, a shower of Ocampo would then nip pastillas de leche. with us, the art of bordado
flowers, a man or a woman. the skin with a small knife, Luz Ocampo also carved will continue, at least for one
Aling Luz would begin by creating a design that bigger fruits like santol, taking more generation.
folding the paper several would appear translucent out the hard rind to work
times then snipping here and when seen against the on the softer inner part. The To order bordado, contact
there. When she finished, she light. The decorative dayap pomelos outer rind went Naty Ocampo Cruz at (0922)
would spread out the paper was preserved in syrup. under her skillful knife as 861-1379.

110 FOOD | 2016 Issue 2

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