City breaks

travel guide
 Welcome Contents
4 Budapest 16 Paris
Thinking of booking a short break abroad this year
but not sure where to go? Look no further than this 6 Amsterdam 18 Prague
handy guide. From the souks of Marrakech and the
palaces of Prague to the baths of Budapest and the 8 Rome 19 Munich
bunkers of Berlin, we take you on an insiders tour
of some of the worlds best cities. 10 Seville 20 Istanbul
We have included a broad geographical selection
of cities that we know are popular with our members. 12 Berlin 21 Marrakech
For each location, we reveal the top attractions
and the best places to eat, sleep and drink. We also 14 Vienna 22 New York
share hidden gems, details of how to get around
and, in true Which? Travel style, plenty of top time-
and money-saving tips.
Every hotel, restaurant and bar that weve
recommended is in the mid-range not so cheap
that it lacks comfort, but not so expensive that it
breaks the bank. Weve done our research and
chosen places that are full of charm and character,
giving you a real taste of what each city has to offer.

Jill Starley-Grainger
Editor, Which? Travel

THE WHICH? TRAVEL PROMISE

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2 which.co.uk which.co.uk 3
Budapest
Pootling along the Danube, relaxing in thermal-spring baths
and strolling in sculpture parks are all part of this charming
yet cosmopolitan citys appeal
Hungarys capital straddles the Danube river
and is quite literally a city of two halves, with
picturesque Buda on one side and bustling
Pest on the other. Although united in 1873, both
areas retain their own identities: Buda is steeped
in history, palaces and rolling hills, while Pest is
flatter, edgier and crammed with culture.
Major attractions
Sail the Danube Bend
Setting off from Vigad Square, this 11-hour
boat trip takes you nearly 90km up the Danube.
Highlights include sailing under the Szchenyi
Chain Bridge and the Baroque city of Esztergom.
TOP TIP Avoid inflated prices by booking
directly with MAHART, the main boat operator.
Vigad tr; mahartpassnave.hu
 Square. This open-air museum features
Relax at the Gellrt Baths
Natural thermal springs bubble beneath
Insider tips
A
 lthough Buda looks spectacular, its
dead after 6pm. That means its better to
stay in Pest city centre the area defined
by the Danube and the semicircle of the
Grand Boulevard.
T
 he best nightlife is in Pest but dont
expect streets filled with restaurants
to choose from on a night out. Best to
decide in advance where to eat and
book a table.
L
 ooking for a summer beer garden? Head
to Liszt Square opposite the Opera House.
4 which.co.uk
Budapest and no public bathhouse is more
lavish than the Gellrt, featuring four plunge
pools set among opulent twisted columns
and ceramic mosaics.
TOP TIP Visit on weekdays for more space
and to save a few pennies.
Kelenhegyi t 4; gellertfurdo.hu
View from Buda Castle Hill
Stay at a hotel in the vibrant Pest district, but
cross the Chain Bridge into Buda to take in the
best views of the city from Castle Hill. Its here
youll find the 19th-century Fishermans Bastion,
a series of turreted lookout points.
TOP TIP The lower bastion (open day and
night) is free and the view is stellar.
Buda Castle Hill; fishermansbastion.com
Take a Parliament tour
Youll have seen the neo-Gothic Parliament
building in every photo of Budapest, but dont
miss out on the extravagant interior its 691
rooms have been painted as if covered in an
elaborate tapestry. Marvel at the Central Hall,
where ceremonial guards watch over the
Crown of St Stephen.
TOP TIP EU citizens get a discount on the
entry price, so take your passport with you.
Kossuth tr 1-3; parlament.hu
Secret sight
Visit Memento Park
Instead of destroying their Communist
statues, erected between 1946 and 1989
while the country was behind the Iron Curtain,
View of Parliament building
Hungarians banished them to the outskirts
of Buda, 13km southwest from Dek Ferenc
42 statues of Lenin and Marx, intermixed
with captivating sculptures of ordinary
workers and soldiers.
TOP TIP Save money on taxis to and from the
park and get the 11am once-a-day Memento
Park direct bus transfer from Dek Square. The
price includes park entry and a guided tour.
mementopark.hu
Eat
Kleves
This Jewish-Hungarian fusion restaurant in
Pests Jewish quarter wows with inventive
versions of Hungarian staples. Its popular
with locals, so book ahead to make sure
you get a table.
kolevesvendeglo.hu
Drink
Szimpla Kert
This ruin pub, an abandoned building turned
into a ramshackle bar, is quirky and cavernous.
Try the range of homemade fruit brandies,
known as plinkas.
szimpla.hu
Sleep
Gerlczy Rooms de Lux
This glamorous Art Nouveau mansion in Pest has
a wrought-iron spiral staircase stretching over
three floors. Take advantage of the free minibar
with its daily refill of beer and Champagne.
gerloczy.hu
Getting around
Buy a Travelcard (metros, buses, trams) from
the BKK customer service desk at the airport,
or a ticket machine at the main transport hubs.
which.co.uk 5
Amsterdam
Discover new Dutch masters, do a spot of boutique shopping and
take a chug down a canal in the Venice of the north
Canal houses in Amsterdam
Amsterdam might be famed for its wild nightlife
and liberal attitudes to sex and drugs, but its
also bountiful with art, architecture and culture.
Whether its viewing a Vermeer or sipping
on a coffee after a canal-side cycle, two or
three days in the Dutch capital will leave a
lasting impression.
Major attractions
Visit the Anne Frank House
A 17th-century canal house at Prinsengracht
263-267 contained a secret annex. It concealed
the young Anne Frank and her family for two
years during the second world war until they
were betrayed in August 1944. Visitors can step
6 which.co.uk
behind the false bookshelves into the cramped,
airless quarters that protected Anne as she
wrote her remarkably articulate diary, which
became an essential document
of modern history.
TOP TIP Book ahead online to jump the
queue. Otherwise, get there by 8.30am
and you should be inside within the hour.
Prinsengracht 263-267; annefrank.org
Explore the Stedelijk Museum
The Stedelijk nicknamed the bathtub
after its bold extension is a temple to
contemporary masters (think Willem de Kooning
and Marlene Dumas) on a par with Londons
Tate Modern. It also acts as a billboard for
the home-grown creative scene. The main
floor displays ground-breaking graphic design
from Wim Crouwel, nicknamed Mr Gridnik
for his love of order and simplicity.
TOP TIP Avoid the expensive museum
canteen and head to nearby Caf Lusthof
(cafelusthof.nl) for a plate of piping-hot
bitterballen (fried meatballs).
Museumplein 10; stedelijk.nl
Secret sight
Browse for wares at De Hallen
This electric-tram hangar offers unique
Dutch shopping under one soaring glass
roof. Once the jewel in the crown of
Amsterdams early 20th-century expansion,
it now offers the gourmet food court,
Foodhallen, independent fashion and
interiors boutiques and lively restaurants.
TOP TIP Unlike most British markets, De
Hallen only accepts card payments no cash.
Hannie Dankbaar Passage 33;
dehallen-amsterdam.nl
Eat
Envy
This radical canal-side restaurant with eight
consecutive Michelin Bib Gourmands lives
up to its name among Amsterdams chefs.
Here, chef Michael Wolf crafts a nightly
Italian menu, such as tapas-size portions
of shoulder ham, crystallised goats cheese
and lacquered sea bass.
TOP TIP The 39 five-course tasting menu
drops down to just 27 on Mondays.
envy.nl
Drink
Wynand Fockink
This is one of the oldest bars in Amsterdam
and dates back to 1679. As a bar and a
distillery, which once hosted Winston Churchill,
it offers guided tours and tastings of a wide
View from the Channel bridge
selection of jenevers (Dutch gin) and liqueur.
Its also home to a wacky collection of
antique hand-painted bottles.
wynand-fockink.nl
Sleep
Sunhead of 1617
Named for the distinctive carving on the faade
of the building, the cosy, friendly Sunhead is
festooned with exotic fabrics, painted in warm,
autumnal colours and fragranced with home
cooking. If it didnt already exist, some writer
would surely set their novel here.
TOP TIP Book early as there are only four
rooms and prices rise with demand.
sunhead.com
Getting around
Cycling is the most economical and fun way to
explore Amsterdams canals and landscapes.
MacBike has five rental shops dotted across the
city. The public transport system is also very
reliable. Fares are paid using an OV-chipkaart
a contactless payment card. Buy it from
supermarkets, newsagents and GVB (the
transport provider) offices.
macbike.nl; en.gvb.nl
Time-saving tip
Queues can be long. Avoid them by buying
tickets for attractions online in advance.
which.co.uk 7
Rome
Meander through piazzas, get lost in ancient ruins and peek
into papal abodes during a short break in the Eternal City
Piazza Navona, Rome
History permeates every inch of Italys largest
city. Once youve explored the ancient ruins of
the Colosseum and admired the Renaissance
masterpieces in Vatican City, soak up la dolce
vita while people-watching at one of the many
street-side cafs.
Major attractions
Tour the Vatican Museums
Visit the opulent home of Pope Francis to see
the worlds greatest collection of Renaissance
art. Allow at least 2 hours to pass through vast
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palatial galleries and charming courtyards
scattered with ancient Roman statues. See
how we used to view the world in the Gallery
of Maps, a 120m-long barrel-vaulted hall
with 16th-century maps of Italy painted on to
the walls. And in the Sistine Chapel, you can
marvel over Michelangelos breathtaking
ceiling frescoes.
TOP TIP Arrive around noon to avoid the
worst of the tour-group crowds. Also, book
tickets online to avoid long queues.
Viale Vaticano; museivaticani.va
Stroll the Tridente
Starting from the towering ancient Egyptian
obelisk at Piazza del Popolo, weave south
through some of Romes best shopping streets
in the Tridente district. Browse the impressive
antiques and designer fashion in the ornate
buildings lining Via del Babuino. Tourists and
touts congregate on the Spanish Steps,
overlooking Berninis 1627 Ugly Boat fountain
commemorating the time the Tiber flooded
so badly it reached this spot. To escape the
crowds, wander along Via Margutta, a quiet
street with independent shops.
TOP TIP For sweeping views of the city head
to the Pincio terrace in Villa Borghese park.
Secret sight
Picnic at Ostia Antica
Formerly a thriving port town 25km from
Rome, Ostia Antica was abandoned by most
of its inhabitants in the 5th century. Spend
the day clambering through the ruins of once
luxurious second-century villas, bathhouses,
temples and a grand amphitheatre. Mapping,
signage and crowds are sparse, so youll
feel like a proper archaeologist as you
explore the sprawling ruins.
TOP TIP The on-site caf offers little choice,
so buy picnic goodies at Testaccio. The market
is close to Porta San Paolo station, where the
20-minute train ride to Ostia Antica starts.
Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica;
ostia-antica.org
Eat
Spirito DiVino
Formerly a synagogue and a convent, this
family-run trattoria now attracts worshippers of
the Slow Food movement. Order homemade
pasta dishes, such as spaghetti with bacon and
a Parmesan fondue or pork shoulder with
honey, red wine and anchovy sauce.
TOP TIP Have a peek at the dust-coated
bottles in the atmospheric stone wine cellar,
Money-saving tip
Bypass anyone in the airport terminal
holding up taxi badges. These drivers
arent official and charge more than the
legitimate taxis in the queue outside.
which staff claim is older than the Colosseum.
spiritodivino.com
Drink
La Mescita at Enoteca Ferrara
This small wood-beamed wine bar offers
20-odd wines by the glass. Order one,
kick back and keep your eyes peeled for
aperitivo. This Italian tradition sees many
bars laying out free food in the evening to
encourage customers to linger over drinks.
TOP TIP Arrive 7-9pm for the widest choice
of aperitivo.
enotecaferrara.it
Sleep
Relais Giulia
You may feel blessed if you stay here Pope
Paul III owned this little palace in the 16th
century. Now an elegant 13-room hotel, it
delights with neoclassical touches, such as
terracotta floors and bas-relief on the walls.
TOP TIP All Deluxe rooms have baths, so
plump for one of these if youre likely
to crave a post-sightseeing soak.
relaisgiulia.it
Getting around
rome.info/transportation
Insider tip
The streets around Campo de Fiori a
square known for its colourful farmers
market make an excellent base, with
most city sights easily walkable.
which.co.uk 9
Seville
Chattering castanets, gutsy guitars and passionate harmonies
flamenco seeps through every aspect of this sultry Spanish city
Seville is the premier city in Andalucia, southern
Spain, and a buzzing, vibrant destination, with
a legacy that boasts Carmen, Figaro and Don
Juan. Stay in atmospheric Santa Cruz, where
youll be right in the thick of things.
Major attractions
Take a trip to the Alczar
This is Sevilles most impressive sight: a fortified
Moorish palace, rebuilt in Mudjar style by
Christian kings. Take in the red, green and gold
wooden dome of the Saln de Embajadores
and picnic in the Alczars 60,000 sq metres of
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The Alczar
gardens. Look out for the Fountain of Fame
a hydraulic organ using water pressure to
play music every half hour.
TOP TIP Beat the crowds on a weekday by
arriving when it opens at 9.30am or after 3pm.
Plaza del Triunfo; alcazarsevilla.org
Stroll in Santa Cruz
Sevilles ancient Jewish quarter spreads
east from the vast Gothic cathedral and richly
decorated Alczar palace. This is the place
to wander round and explore, to bar-hop and
peer into flower-filled patios.
TOP TIP Skip the over-priced eateries by the
cathedral. In general, avoid anywhere in Seville
offering sangria, rarely drunk by locals, or paella,
which is not a dish native to Andaluca.
Dance at Pea Flamenca Nio de la Alfalfa
Many tourists visit a tablao a flamenco-theatre
show. But purists argue that real flamenco
should be wild and spontaneous, performed
in a bar or pea a private club for aficionados.
The Nio de la Alfalfa, the only pea in Sevilles
historic centre, delivers passionate, frenetic
performances for a lively crowd of enthusiasts.
Pea Flamenca Nio de la Alfalfa,
C/ Castellar 52
Secret sight
Explore the Hospital de los Venerables
This former home for infirm priests, founded in
1673, conceals one of Sevilles most beautiful
patios, with Tuscan-marble columns surrounding
a sunken fountain formed of colourful,
concentric tiled steps. Inside the adjoining
hidden church, marvel at the rich floral murals
of priestly life by Juan Valds Leal.
TOP TIP Free entry on Sundays 4-8pm.
Plaza de los Venerables 8, Santa Cruz;
focus.abengoa.es
Eat
Las Teresas
Founded in 1870, Las Teresas offers a taste of
old Seville, a tapas bar in Santa Cruz with tiled
floors, a shiny brass bar rail and tantalising
cured hams hanging overhead.
TOP TIP Las Teresas is a favourite starting
point for the excellent Azahar Sevilla Tapas
Tours (azahar-sevilla.com).
C/ Santa Teresa 2; +34 954 213 069
Drink
Roof
If youre looking for romance and a refreshing
tipple, head to the multi-storey terraced bar on
Traditional flamenco dresses
top of the Casa Romana Hotel. It offers a
spectacular 360-degree view of the city.
TOP TIP It fills up with locals at the weekends,
so head there midweek to avoid queuing
for a drink.
hotelcasaromana.com
Sleep
Hotel Amadeus
In 2001, a family of musicians converted this
18th-century palatial residence into a boutique
hotel, using their personal collection of antique
furniture and whimsical music-themed artwork
to furnish the 30 quirky rooms.
TOP TIP Its best to avoid the rooms in the
annexe to the main hotel some suffer from
street noise at night and at weekends.
hotelamadeussevilla.com
Getting around
Seville has buses, trams and a new metro
system, but walking is still the best option,
especially around the old town.
Money-saving tip
Swap overpriced hotel breakfasts for a
mid-morning feast. From 10am, cafs are
abuzz with locals enjoying toast slathered
in olive oil, tomato salsa, cheese and cured
ham, served with fresh orange juice and
coffee all for less than 5.
which.co.uk 11
 Delve into an underground bunker and scale guided tour (Saturdays only, 3pm). TOP TIP Sample a variety of hot and cold

Berlin
the heights of the glittering Reichstag dome
before hitting the contemporary art world in
Germanys heady capital
The imposing Reichstag
Despite its turbulent history, Berlin has
managed to pick itself up and become one of
Europes hippest destinations. With a vibrant
arts scene, cosmopolitan caf culture and
hands-on history, its the perfect place for a
whistle-stop weekend.
Major attractions
Climb up the Reichstag dome
Burned by the Nazis and bombed by the
Allies, its astonishing that anything remains
of Germanys national parliament. Revamped
after reunification, the 19th-century shell is
now topped with a sparkling futuristic cupola
built from 3,000 sq metres of glass. The views
are fabulous climb the spiral walkway as an
audioguide points out the sights.
TOP TIP You must bring your passport
to access the Reichstag.
Platz der Republik 1; bundestag.de
Reflect at the Holocaust Memorial
Navigate your way through 2,711 concrete
slabs, sandwiched between Potsdamer
Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. Its a
solitary and disorientating experience
people appear, then vanish, amid undulating
blocks of stone. The bustle of Berlin is lost
in silent contemplation and a cemetery chill.
The free museum beneath gives context.
TOP TIP Youll face queues for the
underground museum, due to security
checks. Arrive just before it opens at 10am
for the shortest queues or join the free
Cora-Berliner-Strasse 1; stiftung-denkmal.de
Secret sight
Go underground at Bunker B
Heave open the heavy airlock door of
Bunker B, deep in the bowels of
Gesundbrunnen underground station,
for a guided tour of one of Berlins last
remaining air-raid shelters. A dark labyrinth of
reinforced concrete, it was designed for 900
people; by 1944, its 48 rooms sheltered three
times that number, all of them crammed on to
bare benches and wondering what was left of
the world above.
TOP TIP Tickets can be bought in cash
only from the kiosk at Gesundbrunnen
underground station on the day of the tour.
Buy them as soon as the kiosk opens at 10am.
Then, before your tour starts at 11am, cross
into the park and take in the views from the
ruined Humboldthain Flak-bunker.
Brunnenstrasse 105; berliner-unterwelten.de
Eat
Kopps
Giant picture windows and long rustic tables
packed with locals give this vegan restaurant a
laid-back feel. German specialities use unusual
seasonal veg sourced from Berlin. Try the
pumpkin and coconut soup with chilli and ginger
or truffled bread dumplings with black salsify.
Graffitied buildings in Berlin
vegan dishes at the great-value all-you-can-eat
buffet brunches (Friday-Sunday, 9.30am-
3.30pm).
kopps-berlin.de
Drink
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
Menacing metal monster sculptures guard
the entrance of this courtyard bar. Inside,
it has candlelit peeling paint and Gothic
grill-covered fish tanks.
TOP TIP Visit 6-10pm on a Thursday, Friday or
Saturday for a tour of the Monsterkabinett the
artist Hannes Heiners surreal and slightly
terrifying underground art installation.
eschschloraque.de
Sleep
Honigmond Garden Hotel
If Berlins propensity for hipster chic gets
too much, take refuge inside this majestic
boutique guesthouse dating from 1845. Its lush
Tuscan-style garden with wooden bridge and
koi pond provides a breath of fresh air.
TOP TIP Book directly with the hotel to take
advantage of special deals on short breaks.
honigmond.de
Getting around
The U-Bahn (underground) is the most efficient
way to travel, operating 4am-12.30am and all
night Friday, Saturday and public holidays.
Insider tips
F
 ake currency is a problem here. Avoid
it by only changing money at banks or
legitimate bureaux de change.
L
 ooking for somewhere to eat? Stroll
Scheunenviertels streets (strasse in
German) for an eclectic foodie mix, from
bustling cafs to innovative restaurants.

12 which.co.uk which.co.uk 13
Vienna
Whether it's waltzing to Strauss or browsing for wares at the Naschmarkt,
this city offers an abundance of culture and style
Regarded by many as the music capital of the
world, Vienna glistens with old-world charm
and decadence. But behind the grand palaces,
concert halls and museums lies an edgier
locale, housing quirky shops, scrumptious
food markets and a heady nightlife.
Major attractions
Visit the Schatzkammer
The Habsburgs influence is writ large in
the pomp and circumstance of Viennas
architecture. Equally majestic are the splendid
ceremonial robes, jewelled crowns, gilded
sceptres and liturgical objects preserved here.
Despite the low-key presentation, tucked away
in a series of chambers at the Hofburg Palace,
the Schatzkammer none the less illuminates
the bygone supremacy of one of Europes great
dynasties to dazzling effect.
TOP TIP Go first thing and itll be time for
elevenses when youre done, so head to the
Viennese waffles
14 which.co.uk
bakery at the Guesthouse (theguesthouse.at),
5 minutes away.
Hofburg, Schweizerhof;
kaiserliche-schatzkammer.at
Listen to the Wiener Symphoniker
The Vienna Symphony Orchestra splits its time
between the Musikverein concert hall and
the Konzerthaus, and tickets are easier (and
cheaper) to come by than for the more famous
Philharmonic. Dont expect a second-class
experience, though. This is Vienna: standards of
musicianship are stratospherically high, and the
Symphoniker has a lush and polished sound.
Thats why the locals crowd in to hear Mahler,
Beethoven or Mozart every night of the week.
TOP TIP Dress up. You dont need a top hat
and tails, but youll feel uncomfortable in jeans.
Daffingerstrasse 4; wienersymphoniker.at
Stroll around Naschmarkt
A vivid pop of colour south of the centre,
the Naschmarkt is Viennas most popular
marketplace. Its at its best on Saturday
mornings, when you can pick up a punnet
of whatevers in season at the Kuczera
greengrocer and snack on 10 varieties of olive
at one of the Turkish stalls. Dont forget
to explore nearby Schleifmhlgasse, a street
filled with galleries and vintage boutiques.
06, Linke & Rechte Wienzeile
Secret sight
Ringstrasse tour
Viennas circular girdle of 19th-century avenues,
known as the Ringstrasse, is one of the finest
St Charles Church (Karlskirche)
urban landscapes in Europe. Theres no better
way to discover it than on a bike. Cycle paths
trace the entire route, and bike hire is easy,
thanks to the Citybike scheme (citybikewien.at).
Register your details ahead online and youll
get a password with access to 1,500 bikes
at 120 stations across the city.
TOP TIP Download the Citybiker app, which
tells you where the nearest bike station is and
whether any bikes are available.
Eat
Glacis Beisl
A venue that knows exactly what to do with
the stodgy staples of Central European cuisine.
The blood sausage, for example, is pan-fried,
crispy and caramelised on the outside, rich
and comforting within; the perfect foil for
earthy potatoes and tangy sauerkraut. No
wonder the place is heaving by 7pm.
glacisbeisl.at
Drink
Phil
Bookish and civilised, Phil is Viennas most
trendy neighbourhood hangout. You can take
some of it home with you, too. Everything is for
sale, from the light fittings to the books.
phil.info
Sleep
Hotel Beethoven
This is a convenient pied--terre for foodies
and art-lovers. Hotel Beethoven is a short
walk from many of Viennas best moments,
whether its a Wiener Symphoniker concert
or an espresso at Phil.
hotel-beethoven.at
Getting around
Vienna has an excellent public transport system.
Flat-fare tickets are valid for trains, trams, buses,
the U-Bahn (underground) and the S-Bahn
regional trains.
Money-saving tip
Get half-price tickets to mumok
(mumok.at), housing Viennas finest
contemporary-art collection, by visiting
on a Thursday evening.
which.co.uk 15
Paris
Soulful bistros, candlelit cocktail bars, divine
patisseries and sprawling parks are all a part
of the City of Lights allure
Pont Neuf and le de la Cit
Its not hard to see why people fall head
over heels in love with Paris. Its synonymous
with food, culture, fashion and architecture.
Its romantic bistros, bars, boutiques, a
vibrant music, film and art scene along with
some intriguing hidden corners make it an
unforgettable experience. Every quarter of
the 20 arrondissements of this cinematic
city is unique, and just walking around with
no destination in mind, strolling the Seine
or drifting along the banks of Canal Saint-Martin,
has its own magic.
Major attractions
Muse du Louvre
The Louvre is a must-see. Set in a former
royal palace, it houses 35,000 masterpieces,
from pre-history to modern works. Its sheer size
can be overwhelming you can lose entire
days drifting around among the Egyptian
mummies, Greek antiquities and Napoleon IIIs
16 which.co.uk
Apartments. If you want to see star attractions,
such as the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo,
follow the specially marked tour.
TOP TIP Most of the citys major attractions and
museums, including the Louvre, Muse dOrsay
and Centre Pompidou, offer free admission on
the first Sunday of each month.
Luxembourg Gardens
Stroll or stop for a picnic in the Luxembourg
Gardens, where Parisians come to catch some
sun, have lunch or play tennis. Perch under the
shade of trees or snag a green metal chair and
people-watch for a glimpse of local life.
TOP TIP Pick up fresh baguettes, cheese,
croissants and coffee at nearby Raspail street
market, open Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays.
Pre-Lachaise Cemetery
This grand, tree-lined cemetery is the final
resting place of many famous artists, writers,
musicians and poets, including dith Piaf, Oscar
Wilde, Marcel Proust and Maria Callas. Look
out for Jim Morrisons grave, which is among
the citys most popular pilgrimages. His
graffiti-covered memorial was cluttered with all
sorts of rock paraphernalia until it was cleaned
up in 2008 and assigned its own security guard.
Admission is free.
TOP TIP There are more than a million
graves here, so make sure you buy a 1
map at the entrance.
16 rue du Repos; pere-lachaise.com
Secret sight
Dine in an old-fashioned bistro
Proof that old romantic Paris hasnt
been swallowed up in a rash of trendy
refurbishments, the 1930s-style Chez Robert
et Louise does good, rustic French food in
a lively setting with wood-beamed ceilings,
brass lamps and gingham curtains. Diners are
seated around a long communal farmhouse
table flowing with wine and conversation.
TOP TIP Come later if youre lucky, you might
be there when Robert, the sprightly co-owner
well past retiring age, has one of his famous
Name That (French) Tune lock-ins.
64 rue Vieille du Temple, robertetlouise.com
Eat
For anyone craving an authentic brasserie,
Le Bistrot Paul Bert has a film-noir atmosphere
and tasty, traditional Gallic fare. A buzzy place
with vintage posters and low lights, it attracts
a cosmopolitan crowd and dishes up classics
like truffled eggs, garlic mushrooms and steak
frites. It has an impressive wine list and a
A Parisian caf
reasonable prix fixe, three-course menu for 38.
18 rue Paul Bert; 00 33 1 43 72 24 01
Drink
Le Meurice
Enjoy chilled Champagne beneath the
chandeliers of this palatial 19th-century hotel,
nestled between the Tuileries gardens and the
Louvre. A Parisian masterpiece of style.
228 rue de Rivoli;
dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/le-meurice
Sleep
Hotel Crayon
Just four blocks north of the Louvre, this arty
boutique hotel is a vivid creation of local
artist Julie Gauthron. The 26 rooms are
filled with stylish mid-century furniture and
flea-market gems.
25 rue du Bouloi; hotelcrayon.com
Getting around
The Mtro underground is very affordable you
can get a carnet (a 10-pack of metro/bus tickets)
for 14.10. But Paris is a relatively small city, and
many of the main attractions are within walking
distance of each other. So take your trainers and
breathe in the sights as you stroll.
Money-saving tips
D
 uring the summer, there are free music
and film festivals almost every night of
the week, including the Paris Jazz Festival
and the Cinma en Plein Air screenings.
T
 he Vlib bike-share programme has
1,800 stations around the city, so its a
great way to sightsee. Once you join (one-
day pass for 1.70; seven-day pass for 8),
just head to any Vlib station, enter your
access code and take out a bike. The next
30 minutes are then free.
en.velib.paris.fr
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 Munich
From beer tankards and dirndls
to BMWs and urban surfing,
Germanys southern capital blends
Star Msto (Old Town)
traditional Bavarian culture with
a modern metropolis
Viktualienmarkt, including Bavarian delicacies
like Weisswurst (white veal and herb sausage)
and Leberkse (meat loaf).
TOP TIP Stock up at this open-air farmers
market and head to the Englischer Garten for
a picnic. The parks 900 acres are crisscrossed
by streams and paths leading to a Chinese
pagoda and a lakeside beer garden.
Viktualienmarkt 3, 80331 Mnchen

Prague
A uniquely preserved city where
spires abound and youre never
too many steps away from an
ice-cold Czech beer
Iconic sights are plentiful in historic Prague
from the annual parade of mechanical figures
at the Old Town Halls medieval Astronomical
Clock to the statue-lined Charles Bridge over
the River Vltava. Beyond these bustling tourist
sights, youll find a fairytale hilltop castle, the
Jewish quarters synagogues, and plenty of
world-class opera.
Major attractions
Spend a morning at Prague Castle
Prague Castle is one of the worlds largest
castle complexes, with many palaces,
courtyards and St Vitus Cathedral, which has
impressive stained glass. Sightseers enjoy
visiting the nearby lookout tower on Petin Hill.
TOP TIP The best time to visit is on a weekday.
Time-saving tip
Take the free Prague Explorer walking
tour from 11am to get your bearings. The
student guides are very knowledgeable.
Get there before 9am to avoid the queues.
119 08 Prague 1; hrad.cz
Marvel at the Astronomical Clock
No trip to Prague is complete without viewing
its famous 600-year-old Astronomical Clock,
at the Old Town Hall in the Old Town Square.
Death rings a bell on the hour and inverts his
hourglass, summoning the 12 Apostles who
appear in the windows above the clock face.
Staromstsk nm. 1, 110 00 Praha 1;
staromestskaradnicepraha.cz
Secret sight
Visit the Emmaus Monastery
Dating from 1372, this monastery was built
for a Slavonic Benedictine order and has a
colourful history. Seized by the Gestapo, almost
destroyed by an Allied bomb and then shut
down by the Communist Party, it was finally
restored to the Benedictine order in the 1990s.
Vyehradsk 49,128 00 Praha 2; emauzy.cz
Getting around
Public transport is cheap, and free for over-70s.
Money-saving tip
The Prague Card is a two-, three- or
four-day card that gives you entry to 50
attractions, public transport, plus a
guidebook. You can book online at
praguecard.com
Getting around
Theres more to the Bavarian capital than Its easy to get to the main sights on foot,
sausages and beer halls. You will find by tram and underground.
old-world buildings, modern shops and mvv-muenchen.de
cafs, many museums and galleries, and
one of Europes biggest city parks. Munich
is large, but on a short visit, youll spend
most of your time in the old town and
Marienplatz, its central square.
Major attractions
Explore the Residenz Museum
Munichs top tourist attraction was the home
of Bavarian royalty from the 16th century
until the first world war. You can spend the
whole day absorbed in decadent interiors and
works of art, ranging from the Renaissance
to the neoclassical era.
Residenzstrasse 1; residenz-muenchen.de
Learn at the Deutsches Museum
For exhibits of a completely different kind, head
to Germanys best science and technology Marienplatz, Neues Rathaus and Frauenkirche
museum. Highlights include the planetarium
and the model coal and salt mines.
TOP TIP Travelling with children? Take
them to the Kinderreich, where they can Money-saving tips
learn about technology and science through H
 otels and self-catering tend to be
interactive displays. cheaper in February and March, and
Museumsinsel 1; deutsches-museum.de highest in September during the
famed Oktoberfest beer festival.
Secret sight E
 ntrance to many Munich museums
Shop at Viktualienmarkt is cheaper on Sundays.
Many edible goodies are on sale at the

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Istanbul
From the aromas of the souks to a
cruise down the Bosphorus Strait,
prepare to be seduced by the
sights of Turkeys premier city
Formerly known as Constantinople and
Byzantium, the city of Istanbul is where
East meets West. Rich in history and
commerce, take a short break here to be
intoxicated by a heady mix of mosques,
minarets, markets and museums.
Major attractions
Haggle for handicrafts
Delve into a chaotic maze, as pungent spices
and hand-printed silk scarves seduce you
to part with your Turkish lira in the Old Citys
frenzied souks and bazaars.
TOP TIP Prices are almost always artificially
inflated by 20% to 30% to allow for a
bargaining margin so remember to haggle!
Hop on board a Bosphorus boat trip
The Bosphorus strait is a busy channel that
straddles the continents of Asia and Europe.
A cruise down it will give you a glimpse into
how each half lives, as well as showcasing
the citys lesser-known palaces, mosques
and fortresses.
TOP TIP Avoid a private Bosphorus cruise.
The trip will be no better, but will cost more,
than the official Sehir Hatlari ferry service.
sehirhatlari.com.tr/en
Secret sight
Explore Hagia Sophia
This sixth-century cathedral-turned-mosque-
turned-historic monument, adjacent to
Istanbuls famous Blue Mosque, wows with
20 which.co.uk
Sleymaniye Mosque
its opulent gold-lined cupolas, marble pillars
and mosaic walls and floors.
TOP TIP Buy your tickets online to avoid long
queues, especially at weekends.
Ayasofya Meydan; 1ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr
Getting around
Public transport in Istanbul is frequent but
busy at commuter times (810am and 46pm).
Buy an Istanbulkart a travel pass that
will save you money on ferry, tram, metro,
funicular and bus journeys.
Time-saving tip
Long queues at the major sights? You can
legally bypass them by hiring one of the
Istanbul tour guides you see hanging
around outside. Just check theyre
wearing an official badge first.
Marrakech
Rising out of the sparse, wild
desert, the ancient Red City is
an enchanting oasis of medieval
mosques, crumbling palaces
and peaceful courtyards
Steeped in history and culture, Marrakech
has long been a melting pot of Arabic, African
and French influences. From the treasure-filled
bazaars to the glamorous traditional houses
or riads and terraces, its a heady affair.
Like most cities in Morocco, its divided into
the new city and the medina (walled old city).
Major attractions
Djemaa el-Fna
At the heart of Marrakech lies the 11th-century
Djemaa el-Fna. For centuries, storytellers, snake
charmers, belly dancers and traders have
hawked their wares at this open-air theatre. At
night, the square is filled with cantinas and
street stalls selling tasty food fusions.
TOP TIP Try a delicious orange juice from
one of the many stalls.
Moroccan
market (souk)
Get lost in the souks
Enjoy the marvellous maze of souks packed
with lanterns, linens, silks, spices, blood oranges,
green olives and a million other things.
TOP TIP Haggling is essential. Barter to a
quarter or half of the price to get the best deal.
Escape from the crowds
The Jardin Majorelle is an enchanting secret
garden in the middle of the city. The electric-
blue Art Deco villa has shady lanes and
peaceful courtyards to wander.
TOP TIP Go early morning or late afternoon
as it gets swamped with tour-bus groups.
Secret sight
Kosybar
The candlelit terrace of the Kosybar, an
intimate bistro that looks out on the ancient El
Badi Palace is the perfect perch to catch the
sunset. Feast on spicy tajines and sip on a
chilled glass of wine.
TOP TIP Among the few places that serve
alcohol. Since its forbidden in many parts of
Morocco, spirits and beer can be pricey. White
wine and local beers are the best options.
47 Place des Ferblantiers; kosybar.com
Getting around
The best way to do the maze-like Medina is on
foot. Keep an eye out for landmarks as you
wander, as its easy to get lost even with a map.
Money-saving tip
You have to haggle for taxis, so agree an
amount beforehand. If youre staying in a
hotel or riad ask for advice on fair prices.
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New York
Beyond the shopping and the skyscrapers, New York has
everything under the sun, from hip hotels and sizzling
nightlife to hidden parks and secret suppers
Nothing spells bright lights, big city quite like
New York. Its an exhilarating place, buzzing
from morning till night and offering everything
from world-class museums and monuments
to lively bars and eateries, rooftop farms
and outdoor adventures. Whether youre a
first-timer or a frequent visitor, theres always
something amazing to discover.
Major attractions
Central Park
Wandering around Central Park, whatever the
season, is a wonderful escape from the urban
chaos. Its a great spot for people-watching,
feeding the ducks, renting a boat at the
Loeb Boathouse or seeing a concert during
the spring and summer months.
TOP TIP Rent a bike for 2 hours for $20, or
you can book a 2-hour expedition via
centralparkbiketours.com.
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Times Square
When most people think of New York, they
think of Times Square. Its bright lights and buzz
are an essential part of the city and worth
seeing. The square has been transformed from
seedy to swanky in recent years, with amazing
restaurants, bars and galleries cropping up.
TOP TIP Some of the cheapest Broadway-
show tickets can be found at a TKTS booth
in the heart of the square.
The Guggenheim
The Guggenheim is consistently New Yorks
most-visited and most-photographed museum
and for good reason. When it comes to
modern art, this Upper East Side institution
has many of the greats, including Picasso,
Czanne, Kandinsky and Mir.
TOP TIP Take a lift to the top and slowly wind
your way down the giant spiral staircase.
Midtown Manhattan
Statue of Liberty
Go by subway to Battery Park to take the
Statue Cruises tour of the Statue of Liberty
and Ellis Island. If youre feeling energetic,
get a Crown Ticket and climb 22 flights all
the way up to the top of it, for sweeping views
of Manhattans skyline.
TOP TIP To avoid crowds and queues, take
the earliest ferry (8.30am) or go on a misty
day when the statue is at its most atmospheric.
statuecruises.com
Secret sights
Catch the sunset from a rooftop farm
Brooklyn Grange Farm produces everything
from salad to honey and eggs all on a rooftop,
along with hosting supper clubs, herb-growing
classes, yoga and various eclectic happenings
against the backdrop of the Manhattan skyline.
brooklyngrangefarm.com
Night culture
Sneak in a little culture at night at the Brooklyn
Museum. On the first Saturday of each month
it hosts a free themed evening of live music,
film screenings and poetry reading, along with
food from Michelin-starred restaurant Saul.
brooklynmuseum.org
Eat
Lucali
No food is more synonymous with New York
than pizza. Situated in a leafy, once gritty
Brooklyn neighborhood, Lucali serves the best
in town, luring New Yorkers across the bridge.
The thincrust pizzas are handmade and cooked
in a brick oven with luxury, locally sourced
ingredients, and served with well-curated
Italian wines in a moodily lit, romantic setting.
575 Henry St, Brooklyn; lucali.com
Drink
The Campbell Apartment
Tucked away above Grand Central Station,
Brooklyn Bridge
the old-world decadence of this unforgettable
converted salon will whisk you to back to
a grander era. Grab a Prohibition Punch
or Bond Girl cocktail and gaze at the
constellations of the sky-high vaulted ceilings
before exploring the architectural wonder
of the station itself.
Grand Central Terminal, off the West Balcony,
15 Vanderbilt Ave; hospitalityholdings.com
Sleep
414 Hotel
The best deals can be found at some
of Manhattans intimate boutique hotels.
A hidden gem a few blocks away from
Times Square, the 414 Hotel consists of two
elegant brownstone buildings with a peaceful,
flower-filled courtyard. All the rooms combine
stylish comforts with thoughtful touches.
414 West 46th Street; 414hotel.com
Getting around
New Yorks public transport runs around the
clock and is the easiest way to get around.
A single MetroCard ride (good for all subway
and bus journeys, plus access to New Jersey
on the speedy PATH train) costs $2.75. Buy
the seven-day unlimited MetroCard for $31.
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