Solve your

garden
problems
 Welcome Contents
Even the most experienced gardener can face 04 
Dealing with pests 15 Composting made easy
problems in their plots, from pests nibbling their plants
to flowers that fail to thrive in the soil of a new garden. 06 
Preventing disease 16 Plants for places
Theres always something to learn in gardening, which
is part of the joy of doing it. This guide to common 08 
Dealing with weeds 18 When to prune
garden problems will help to solve a few of your
dilemmas and offer you solutions or advice on how 10 
Why didnt my plant flower? 22 Lawn troubleshooter
best to overcome them to create a beautiful garden
full of healthy plants. 12 Make the most of your soil
Each month, we speak to Which? Gardening
members who call in for our regular phone-ins. Its a
great chance for members to ask as many gardening
questions as they like and get one-to-one advice about
how to solve them. It also gives us a good idea of the
problems gardeners face, so that you can benefit, too.
Which? Gardening members can find our Best Buy
reviews for garden tools and accessories, covering
everything from from lawn mowers and strimmers to
barbecues and compost at which.co.uk/garden. You
will also find useful videos explaining how to buy
garden products or plants.
I hope you enjoy this guide and find it helpful with
your gardening.

Ceri Thomas
Editor, Which? Gardening

Which? Ltd 2015 This guide has been produced for general information and in-
terest only. Which? makes every effort to ensure that the information in the guide
is correct, but we cannot guarantee that it is 100% free of inaccuracies, errors
and omissions. The guide may not be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,
transmitted in any form or otherwise made available to third parties without the
written permission of Richard Headland, Head of Which? Magazine. Commercial
use of the guide is not permitted.

2 which.co.uk
Dealing with pests
Creepy-crawly munching pests are the bane of every gardeners life.
gather your defences before these armies invade your garden and
you can minimise the casualty lists
The pests that plague your plot vary from year
to year, but there are a few common invaders
that appear each year without fail (see below).
Which pest is flourishing in your garden at a
particular time depends on a few factors,
including the weather (which creates the
preferred conditions of specific pests), and the
types of plants you grow (many pests attack a
limited range of plants). The surroundings of
your garden can also play a part; for example,
rabbits are more common in rural gardens.
As with any affliction, prevention is better
than a cure. Growing crops under fine mesh is
one of the best ways to prevent pests
accessing your veg, while a fruit cage will
provide a barrier to the birds that want to eat
your berries. Inspect your plants regularly and
be ready to take measures to tackle any pests
you find before they have chance to multiply.
Slugs and snails
These are the number-one pest for many
gardeners. They always seem to be around in
the growing season, especially during damp
4 which.co.uk
weather, and attack a wide range of plants at
almost any stage of their development. The
damage is most noticeable once spring arrives.
Lush new growth is irresistible to slugs and snails
and encourages them out of their hiding places
to feed at night. Our trials showed that organic
slug pellets based on ferric phosphate are just as
effective as those based on metaldehyde, so we
now only recommend the latter. Weve also had
success using biological controls on slugs,
though not on snails. Biological controls use
microscopic nematodes, which are natural
predators of slugs. These can be bought in
garden centres as a voucher, which you then
use to order the living nematodes for delivery,
or you can purchase them directly from specialist
companies via mail order. They need a minimum
Natural predators such as ladybirds
soil temperature of 5C and will only work when
conditions are suitable. This solution can be
expensive if you need to treat large areas.
will also reduce aphid numbers
Aphids
Greenfly and blackfly are just a couple of the
500 or so types of aphids that can be found in gardens. All aphids breed at an alarming rate if aphids getting onto your veg, cover them with
the conditions are right. They suck sap from fine mesh from sowing until its time to harvest.
plants, weakening them, and at the same time
i
can spread viruses. Most insecticides will kill
aphids, but do use them according to the Find out more
instructions because they can kill good bugs, You can find further
too. If you prefer not to spray, the alternatives information on dealing with
are squashing aphids by hand or blasting them pests and how to buy the best
off with jets of water. Woolly aphids on the bark garden tools and accessories
of trees such as the apple, can be scrubbed off at which.co.uk/garden. Which?
with a stiff brush and soapy water. Natural Gardening members can also
predators such as ladybirds and lacewings will access all our Best Buy reviews.
also help to reduce their numbers. To avoid
which.co.uk 5
Preventing disease Grow your own
Plant diseases are a selecting varieties
Healthy garden, healthy plants. The best way to deal with disease is particular issue for with some disease
anyone wanting to resistance will all help.
through good garden practice to prevent it taking hold and spreading grow their own food. In particular, potato
The current varieties such as the
Plant diseases can be caused by fungi, bacteria Some plants, such as fruit and seed potatoes, fungicides cleared for Sarpo range have a
or plant viruses. Diseases range from damping are certified as being virus-free in addition to amateur use on edible good resistance to
off of tiny seedlings to honey fungus on large being bred for disease-resistance so it is plants are being potato blight in both
trees. You can come across problems such as better to buy these rather than use withdrawn. Also, soil their foliage and
powdery mildew in your borders and patio supermarket leftovers. diseases such as tubers. There are
plants, as well as undercover problems such as clubroot and various several brassicas that
botrytis (grey mould) on plants in greenhouses, Raise them well root rots can build have a good tolerance
conservatories and polytunnels. Start plants off at the right temperature and up and remain in to clubroot, which is
The best way to tackle diseases is to stop in clean conditions and keep them growing allotment soils and useful if your soil is
them before they get started, through strongly so that they are better able to cope with kitchen gardens for infected with this
observing good garden hygiene and focusing attack. Cut off any diseased foliage and dispose many years. Good long-lasting disease.
on growing plants well so they do not suffer a of it carefully do not put it on the compost garden hygiene It is always worth
check to their growth or any undue stress. Of heap. For example, cut off old hellebore foliage (particularly looking at a plants
course, sometimes its too late and the disease in January to prevent the new seasons growth undercover where disease-resistance
finds a way in, but you can still control it if you becoming infected with the leaf spot fungus. plants are being when selecting
regularly check plants for the first signs of Diseases are less likely to develop if air is raised), crop rotation fruiting trees and
problems, deal with them quickly and provide able to circulate freely around plants. This to prevent diseases bushes at the
plants with everything they need to stay healthy. means ventilating greenhouses and crop establishing and garden centre.
covers where young plants and seedlings are
Healthy planting growing. You should also space out plants in
Remove dead or decaying plant material beds and borders so they are not overcrowded. and to inspect them regularly so any rotten ones
promptly from growing areas and the plants Woody plants can be pruned to encourage an can be removed before the disease spreads.
themselves, and dont grow the same plants in open framework of branches. Even when fruits,
the same spot year after year for example, bulbs or tubers are stored throughout winter, it Tree problems
pansies, wallflowers or tulips. When buying pays to space them out so they arent touching Honey fungus (right) can kill susceptible trees
seeds, bulbs or plants, obtain them from and shrubs, so if you are unlucky enough to
reputable sources where you know good have it in your garden, you need to burn
hygiene is practised. infected wood and roots. Old tree stumps are
best removed if there is honey fungus in your
area. There is no approved chemical control
available, but some trees tolerate those on sale.
Bracket fungi feed on both living trees and
dead logs. If you see the fruiting bodies (the
bracket fungus) on live trees, there is a risk that
branches may drop off and cause damage or
injury to passers-by, so seek professional
advice on how best to treat the tree.

6 which.co.uk which.co.uk 7
Dealing with weeds
Weeds not only look messy, but they also compete with
your plants for moisture, space and nutrients. So if you
want your garden to thrive, get the weeds under control
Gardeners vary in their tolerance for weeds, and
this often depends on where the unwanted plant
is as much as what it is. But one thing is clear:
it is far easier to deal with weeds while they
are still young and not yet established.
Once perennial weeds such as dandelions
take hold they can be hard work to eliminate,
as they can re-grow from fragments of roots and
underground stems. Annual weeds are easier
to control if you catch them before they flower,
otherwise they produce seed in vast quantities.
Do a little weeding every week to keep on top
of them and to prevent weeds from establishing.
Clearing existing weeds
There are three recommended ways of clearing
weed-infested ground.
Covering Cut back the top growth, then cover
with black polythene sheeting (or sheets of
cardboard) that is held down securely. Provided
the cover excludes light and is kept in place for
at least a year, the weeds will die.
Spraying A quicker method is to use a
weedkiller containing glyphosate to kill off the
weeds. It travels down to the roots and kills the
plant over a period of weeks, although you may
need to re-apply it. To improve take-up, cut back
the weeds and wait for a flush of young growth,
then spray. The ideal time to use these
weedkillers is in late spring to early summer
when weeds are growing rapidly. Spray on a
still day with no wind to prevent the weedkiller
from drifting onto garden plants.
Digging A traditional approach is to use a
garden or border fork to dig over and remove
every piece of weed root by hand before
planting up, which is time-consuming as well as
physically demanding. Dont be tempted to use a
rotovator as a short cut it will cut up roots and
Hard surfaces
spread them around, making the problem worse. Paths, drives, patios and steps can be kept
weed-free by spraying with a path weedkiller.
Keeping beds weed-free Many of these prevent weeds from returning
Once you have cleared the perennial weeds, for several months after they are applied.
you will still need to be vigilant. Annual weed Take care the chemical doesnt run off onto
seeds lie dormant in the soil for many years, and the rest of the garden. Gaps between slabs
digging will bring them to the surface where they can be kept weed-free with a hand weeder or
will germinate in the light. Weed seeds can also old bread knife. Sheet mulches can be laid
come in on the air and with other plants. under new paving or gravel to reduce the
However, the following methods are easy to need for chemical weedkillers.
incorporate into your gardening and will keep
weeds under control.
Mulching Loose mulches laid to a depth of at Hoeing Hoeing borders or veg plots once a

Once perennial weeds

least 5cm will cover the soil surface and prevent
light reaching the weed seeds. For an
take hold they can be ornamental border, chipped bark or gravel can
be attractive, whereas garden compost,
hard work to eliminate composted waste or well-rotted farmyard
manure are good options in less ornamental
areas. Sheet mulches can be used in fruit
gardens and for some widely spaced veg crops.
week works well in dry weather. Use a long-
handled Dutch hoe or equivalent, or squat down
and use a short-handled hand weeder. The secret
is a sharp blade, which skims over the soil surface
and cuts the weeds from their roots. On a dry day
the weeds will shrivel and die. Perennial weeds,
such as dandelions, will return if hoed off, so paint
them with a spot weeder containing glyphosate.

8 which.co.uk which.co.uk 9
Why didnt my
plant flower?
Whether its a plant youre growing for its blooms or one that needs
to flower in order to fruit, its frustrating when flowers fail to appear.
Here are the most common queries answered by our experts
Runner beans
A favourite veg for many of us, runner beans can
sometimes drop their flower buds and then
wont produce beans. Sometimes this will be
solved with a little patience, as runner beans
often take quite a while to start flowering. Spells
of hot, dry weather can cause the buds to drop
off, as can a lack of pollinators. Birds sometimes
pick off the buds, too.
What to do about it
Grow one of the many new runner bean and
French bean crosses, as these varieties are far
more reliable croppers than conventional runner
beans. Choose a site that is sheltered from wind
so that pollinators can do their work. To help
keep the soil moist, dig in lots of garden
compost before planting, then mulch around the
plants. In dry weather, give them a thorough
soak. If you suspect birds are a problem, try
growing beans in a fruit cage.
10 which.co.uk
Fruit trees
Apples, pears and plums often slip into flowering
and fruiting every other year, which is known as
biennial bearing. In the years when they crop
they tend to produce lots of small fruit, unless
the crop is thinned early on. Frost at blossom
time is a common reason why biennial bearing
starts, as it kills the blossom, meaning the tree
produces little, if any, fruit that year. The tree
then overcompensates by producing huge
amounts of blossom the following year.
What to do about it
Look for the fruit buds (round and plump ones)
in early spring and remove about half of them to
leave one or two per spur. Alternatively, wait until
the flowers open and cut off half of them. Both
of these methods will help the tree return to a
normal fruiting pattern. Its also worth giving your
tree some TLC by removing any grass from
around the base so its not competing for water.
Mulch the bare earth and, in dry weather, give
the ground around the tree a thorough soak.
Feed the tree in early spring with a plant food
such as Growmore or Vitax Q4.
Daffodils
Daffodils are an iconic spring flower, but they
can fail to produce the golden trumpets youve
been waiting for all year. This bulb blindness
can be caused by established clumps becoming
congested, the bulbs being hungry or being
attacked by narcissus fly.
What to do about it
Lift congested clumps after they should have
flowered and replant them 57cm apart, at three
times the depth of the bulb. Check for narcissus
fly by lifting the bulbs and cutting through one or
two to see if theres a grub inside. Destroy any
affected bulbs. The next year, you could use a
fine mesh cover from mid-May to early July to
stop the narcissus fly laying eggs in your bulbs.
Never tie up the leaves or remove them before
they turn yellow in spring. All bulbs benefit from
a sprinkle of Growmore around emerging
foliage, or a liquid feed after flowering.
Narcissus fly damage
to a daffodil bulb
Shrubs, climbers and trees
We receive a lot of queries asking why woody
plants arent blooming. The answer is often
because woody plants want to concentrate on
growing roots for the first few years after
planting, instead of producing flowers.
What to do about it
Make sure youve planted it in the right spot
shade can reduce flowering in many plants.
Check whether you have pruned it at the right
time; its all too easy to cut off growth that would
have bloomed. Scatter some sulphate of potash
around the base of the plant in early spring to
give it a boost. For wisteria, its best to buy a plant
in flower, as some wisterias grown from seed can
take years to bloom.
which.co.uk 11

Make the most
of your soil
To get the best from your soil, work with it and choose plants that
will naturally love the conditions it provides. Here are some tips from
hands-on experts for great gardens from the ground up
Acid soil
John Anderson, head gardener
Exbury Gardens, Hampshire
Pros & cons
Acid soils are suitable for a very diverse range
of plants. Some of the most famous gardens
are on acid soils, and most gardeners prefer
acid soils with a pH of around 6.5. Most
alkaline-loving plants will grow on acid soils in
the higher range of 66.5 pH, but not always
the other way round. On extremely acid soils,
nutrients can be locked up.
Soil care
Garden compost is beneficial on all acid soils.
On acidic clay soils, try to aid the drainage and
add organic matter to the top 15cm to improve
the soil over time. Some of the hardy hybrid
12 which.co.uk
rhododendrons and magnolias, along with
some conifers, will grow on acidic clay soils.
Most vegetables will grow happily on acid soil
that has had lime added to it in spring.
Plant choice
Rhododendrons, azaleas, pieris, magnolias,
hamamelis, gaultherias, blueberries, daboecias,
heathers and some conifers, such as abies,
prefer damp acid soils. Most plant failures are
due to other soil conditions rather than its pH.
Sandy/gravelly soil
Neil Lucas, garden owner
Knoll Gardens, Dorset
Pros & cons
It is so easy to dig and prepare planting holes.
The comparative dryness of our sandy soil
Verbena
during the winter is a huge advantage for all
sorts of plants that might otherwise have
struggled to grow here. It is a constant
reminder that plants will accept much colder
temperatures without damage when they have
dry roots. The way these soils dry out almost as
soon as it has stopped raining is a negative.
Soil care
The single most important technique is to
mulch so that bare soil is kept to a minimum.
Mulching retains much-needed moisture
especially during that important early-summer
growing period when plants are putting down
new roots. Any kind of material is good, such as
stable manure, chipped bark, straw, compost or
gravel. Most of these will also gradually feed
the soil, which is usually very low in nutrients.
Plant choice
Amazingly, many types of plant seem to grow
quite happily once established in sandy or
gravelly soils, even specimen trees. Grasses
revel in sunny, dry areas, and even more cope
in the dry shade of the trees. Persicarias,
sedums, verbenas, rudbeckias and even
eupatoriums all provide wonderful colour and
form in these poor, dry soils. We have all but
given up growing large-leaved plants, such as
ligularias and hostas. Roses really like heavier
soils than sand, but we have had success with
a few ramblers.
Clay soil
Bob Brown, nurseryman
Cotswold Garden Flowers, Worcestershire
Pros & cons
Clay soils retain water so that, especially in
summer when flowers and veg are growing,
plants can extract enough water in dry periods.
Clay also retains nutrients. Compaction is a
problem as it impedes drainage. Many dormant
plants are intolerant of standing water. We have
to arrange the soil lumps around plants as we
plant and can struggle to get a fine tilth for seeds.
Soil care
The usual advice is to dig, dont tread, to loosen
the soil and avoid compaction. It is also
important to incorporate as much organic matter
as possible; put it on top and wait for the worms
to do their job. Every few years, dress the soil
with a 3cm-deep layer of cheap sand or grit to
improve the drainage.
Plant choice
Most plants enjoy the advantages and tolerate
the problems. Some, such as roses, prefer clay.
Bog plants, such as trollius and rodgersias, do
well without a bog in clay soil. Youll also grow
prize-winning blackcurrants, sprouts and
cabbages. Some plants, such as catmint (nepeta),
agastache and gypsophila, are intolerant of the
winter wet of clay soils.
Rodgersia
which.co.uk 13

Lavender
Chalky soil
Sarah Wain, garden owner
West Dean Gardens, West Sussex
Pros & cons
Most chalky soils, such as the gravelly loam
over chalk here, tend to be open, light and
free-draining. We can have a few centimetres
of rain and within an hour or two can be out
working the soil without causing problems. The
soil warms up pretty quickly in spring. After a
couple of summer weeks of high temperatures
and no rain it can get very dry, and plants with
large, soft leaves tend to flag a bit. Its also a
hungry soil, in that nutrients leach through
quite rapidly and have to be replaced regularly.
Equally, chalky soil seems to eat organic matter;
any surface mulch has disappeared within a
season. A wide range of plants suffer from
lime-induced chlorosis (when the leaves dont
produce enough chlorophyll and look yellow),
which develops under alkaline conditions.
Soil care
Woody material from pruning is chipped and
composted, then used as surface mulch at a
depth of 57.5cm. This is effective at holding
14 which.co.uk
Composting
made easy
Making your own garden the bin in winter and adding some water in
summer if necessary. Turning the contents
compost from green garden and every couple of months to bring the outermost
kitchen waste is easy when you materials into the middle will speed up the
know how and its great for composting process and deter rats, which
dont like to be disturbed. Your compost is
the garden and your wallet ready to use when it is brown and crumbly.
You can add all sorts of materials to your bin,
Dont spend a fortune on bags of soil improver but there are some you should avoid if you
from the garden centre; instead, buy a compost dont want to encourage rats or spread weeds
Philadelphus bin thats a good size for your garden and make and diseases:
your own. Position your bin on bare soil to let
moisture, therefore cooling the soil surface and worms do their work, and build up layers of Do compost
suppressing weeds. All other green waste is woody material, fresh greens and cardboard Vegetable peelings and healthy remains of
shredded and composted and used in bed inside it. Avoid sludgy compost by keeping the plants from the veg plot.
preparation, where its added to the existing contents evenly moist, but not wet, covering Healthy trimmings and annual weeds, shrub
soil over a fallow period of at least 12 months. and hedge prunings shred woody material.
This enables us to incorporate at least two lots Grass clippings.
of compost and spray any subsequent weed Animal bedding from rabbits, guinea pigs and
seeds that germinate, so we start planting in chickens.
a relatively clean bed. Raspberry plants show Used compost from containers.
chlorosis, but we still persist with them. We
periodically add sulphur pellets to the soil, as Dont compost
they acidify it and perk up the raspberries to Perennial weeds with seeds and roots.
an acceptable level of greenness. Plants or trimmings that are diseased.
The worst results The best results Dog and cat droppings.
Plant choice
Chalky soils are suitable for just about
everything, except for the classic acid-loving,
woodland-garden ericaceous plants such as
Top tips for great compost
rhododendrons, azaleas and the rest of the Cant wait for your Smaller bins Site your bin in occasional turning, you
cast. Most vegetables prefer a slightly alkaline compost? If you have produce compost shade. Microorganisms dont need chemicals
soil and with the exception of acid-loving space, get more than more quickly than need consistent or activators.
blueberries and slightly chlorosis-prone pears one compost bin, so large ones. The best conditions to perform For speedy
and raspberries fruit thrives for us. Having that one batch is ready compost tends to at their best. decomposition, cover
accepted that ericaceous plants are out of while the other is come from bins of With proper the heap with plastic
bounds and not worth trying, very little else decomposing. up to 350 litres. attention and sheets to keep it warm.
has completely failed.
which.co.uk 15
Plants for places
If your plant isnt happy, think about its position is it sunny or shady,
windy or sheltered? You get the best results from your plants if you
position them where they can enjoy their favoured conditions
Millium Cyclamen Vinca
On the sunny side The glare of the sun dries out the soil more
Sunlight is essential for plants to make food (by quickly than in shady areas, so in spring take Which shade is your shade? damp shade come from areas with high rainfall
converting its energy using photosynthesis), so care to cover the soil surface with a layer of Few plants will grow in total shade, but if thats and acid soils, so you need to think about your
its not surprising that many plants thrive in a mulch to help conserve the moisture. your garden, dont despair there is a range soil pH and the requirements of the plant. Also,
sunny spot. Tender and half-hardy plants often Clay soils often crack in a dry, sunny that enjoy partial shade (where light reaches because a lot of the plants originate in damp
prefer sun, and some exotic plants can be spot. When planting in clay, help your plants them for at least a short period each day). woodland, many look their best in spring or
pretty hardy in a warm, sheltered garden. establish by soaking their rootballs in a bucket Shade can be subdivided into moist shade early summer. So try to include some plants that
Assess your site before you choose your of water before planting and water them during and damp shade. Damp shade is actually shade look good in late summer and autumn, too.
plants: south-facing gardens get sun all day; dry weather for the first few months. Sandy without tree roots; its not wet and its not dry. Dry shade, such as under trees, is much
east-facing are sunny in the morning and shady soils can become bone dry in sun, so keep Damp shade can be found in places like the harder to find plants for, but there are some
in the afternoon; west-facing are the opposite. them watered in hot summers. north side of buildings or fences. In damp tough plants that are up to the challenge, such
areas, even a few tree roots might share such as Cyclamen hederifolium, Milium effusum
Zinnia conditions. Many of the most luscious plants for Aureum and, of course, ivy.

Tamarisk
Coastal gardens
Gardening by the sea presents a challenge, as plants
must be able to stand up to the salty air, winds blowing
in from the sea, which blacken leaves, and often
free-draining soil. Wind is perhaps the biggest enemy of
coastal gardeners, as it comes roaring in straight off the
sea. Getting a windbreak in place is essential. Wind
netting and fencing provide a quick solution, but for
longer-term planting, tough shrubs such as tamarisk,
olearia and privet, not only work well as a shelterbelt
but look good, too. A windbreak needs to filter the wind
and reduce its speed, rather than block it. Solid barriers,
such as walls, can often do more damage, as the wind
comes down with full force on the other side of them.
Salt combined with wind burns and blackens leaves.
Some plants are better at coping with this assault than
others. Western coastal gardens are kept virtually
frost-free thanks to the Gulf stream, so with a decent
windbreak many tender plants can be grown
successfully thanks to the mild temperatures.
Dianthus Sedum Cistus

16 which.co.uk which.co.uk 17
When to prune
Not sure which plant to prune when? Knowing how to prune
and the optimum season for particular plants ensures shapely,
healthy plants that will bloom and fruit with renewed vigour
Spring
Heathers For neat, long-lived plants, prune
after flowering. Trim summer-owering varieties
in March and winter-owering varieties in May.
Hybrid tea, floribunda and repeat-flowering
shrub roses Pruning will encourage young
growth and less crowded bushes. In March,
remove any weak, twiggy growth or stems that
rub against each other. On hybrid teas, cut back
all stems to 15cm. On oribundas, cut back all
stems to 30cm. On repeat-owering shrub
roses, cut all stems to half their length.
Overwintered fuchsias For new growth and
the best flowers, prune greenhouse plants in
March, and outdoor types in May. Cut back
all the stems to a bud near their base.
Overgrown climbers and wall shrubs To keep
plants tidy, prune in March, or later for tender
specimens. Some, such as honeysuckles and
pyracanthas, can have all stems cut to 30
60cm from the ground. Others, such as
passionowers and escallonias, respond better
if cut back to their existing framework.
Summer-flowering shrubs These ower on
growth produced in the current year. Prune in
March/April to encourage new growth that will
ower by summer. For hydrangeas, take out one
or two of the oldest stems per year, and cut back
dead owerheads to a vigorous pair of buds. For
other shrubs, cut all the stems that owered last
year to one or two buds from their base.
18 which.co.uk
Evergreen hedges that need renovation
Wait until April when the hedge is in active
growth. For the rst two years, cut back one
side per year to 15cm less than the width you
want the hedge to be. In the third year, reduce
the height of the hedge to 15cm less than the
eventual height you would like. Pruning this
way reduces shock to the plant and allows
space for new growth.
Evergreen shrubs Very little pruning is
required, just shaping to encourage new
growth. In April or May, or after owering,
remove any misplaced or damaged growth.
Take out about a third of the oldest stems
per year.
Spring-flowering clematis (Group 1) These
ower best on growth produced the previous
year, so pruning later than April or May
prevents your plant owering the following
year. Once theyve nished blooming, use
shears to cut back to their supports to prevent
tangled stems.
Spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia
These ower best on the previous years
growth, so after owering, cut back all the
shoots that have owered to a strong bud
near the base.
Late-flowering perennials For sedums,
heleniums and echinacea to make neat, bushy
plants that flower later than normal, cut back
all the stems by half in late May.
Wisteria
Summer
Early-flowering shrubs, such as philadelphus
They ower on the previous years growth, so
pruning in spring encourages lots of new
growth that will have time to mature, ready to
bloom the following year. Between April and
June, immediately after owering, cut back all
the stems that have owered to a strong pair of
buds near their base.
Hedges To keep your hedge lines sharp, prune
between May and September. Some hedging
plants only need a trim once a year, while others
are faster growing and need two or three trims
to keep them neat. Use a hedge trimmer, but to
avoid ragged looking leaves on large-leaved
types, such as laurel, cut with secateurs.
Wisteria You can encourage flowering stems
rather than too much green growth by pruning
twice a year, between July and August. Any
stems that arent required to be tied in to cover
the support can be cut back to ve or six leaves.
Roses For shrub roses that only flower, prune
in August by taking out any weak, twiggy
growth. Remove one or two older stems at their
base. To keep rambling roses under control
and flowering well, also prune in August by
removing a third of the oldest stems at their
base. Where space is tight, you could remove
all the stems that owered at their base. Cut
back any side-shoots to a third of their length.
Lavender Prune in August to extend the life
of plants and keep them flowering. Cut back
the whole plant to 25cm immediately after it
has nished owering. Try not to cut into old
wood, as this may not resprout. Lavenders that
have grown large and woody with a bare centre
are best replaced with new plants.
? Wildlife tip
Its an offence under the Wildlife
and Countryside Act 1981 to damage or
destroy the nest of any wild bird while it is in
use or being built, so you must carefully
check your hedge before trimming it.
which.co.uk 19

Autumn
Evergreen hedges Between September and
October, give hedges a nal trim to create
sharp edges that will look wonderful in winter
when the garden is bare of other plants.
20 which.co.uk
Tall shrubs To stop plants being blown
around and damaged by the wind, reduce the
height of rose bushes and buddleias by half.
Do this any time from October to November.
Climbing roses Prune from November to
January to encourage more owers instead
of leafy growth, and to keep the plant neatly
covering its support. Shorten the side-shoots
growing off the main framework to a third of
their length. If the plant is well established,
take out a couple of the older stems at their
base to encourage new growth.
i Find out more
If you have fruit trees, pruning
depends on the type of plant and how it is
trained, so look up each individual species
for advice, or watch the video on how to
prune an apple tree on our website. Visit:
which.co.uk/pruneappletree.
Winter
Deciduous hedges that need renovation
Tackle between November and February in
staggered steps over three years as outlined
in spring for Evergreen hedges.
Herbaceous perennials Cut back the whole
plant to ground level any time from November to
February. Do this before spring starts in earnest
so that you dont risk damaging any fresh, green
shoots growing at the base.
Ornamental climbers, such as Virginia
creeper and Boston ivy Between January and
February, cut back any stems of these vigorous
climbers that are starting to grow beyond their
support. This will keep your climbers tidy and
under control.
Boston ivy
Wisteria In January and February, shorten the
shoots that you cut back in summer to two or
three buds. This will control the size of this very
vigorous plant and encourage more owers.
Large-flowered clematis that bloom in May
and June (Group 2) In January or February,
prune back the top of each stem to a pair of
healthy buds. The aim is just to tidy the plant and
remove any weak growth, taking care not to cut
off the ower buds.
Miscanthus
Deciduous ornamental grasses To make way
for the new years growth, cut back all the stems
to ground level in February. Be careful not to
damage any young green shoots at the base
of the plant.
Shrubs grown for dramatic leaves or winter
stems Remove all the old growth to encourage
new growth and produce bigger, more colourful
leaves on elders or brighter-coloured stems.
Between February and March, cut back all
the stems to healthy buds, either 6090cm
from the ground to create a taller plant, or
8cm from the ground for a shorter plant.
Late-flowering clematis (Group 3) In February
or March, cut back all the stems to healthy buds,
1530cm above soil level. Clematis ower on
stems produced in the current year, so prune
away the old stems to avoid them growing into
a tangled mess.
i Find out more
Which? members can visit
which.co.uk/garden to find out how to
buy the best secateurs, pruning saws
and hedgetrimmers.
which.co.uk 21

Lawn troubleshooter
Want the perfect green lawn? This quick guide identifies
common and less common lawn woes and suggests how to
tackle them effectively using chemical or organic methods
Regular mowing with the right lawnmower plus September when the weeds are in active growth,
some seasonal care, such as raking out debris, but avoid using them in periods of drought. For
will go a long way to keeping a family lawn in a small lawn (up to 150m2), a soluble powder or
shape. But in any one year there are inevitably liquid concentrate can be applied with a watering
some one-off problems that need to be tackled. can. For large lawns (more than 150m2), a
granular product is more efficient. Hand weeders,
Weedy lawns In a family lawn a scattering of from daisy grubbers to weed extractors, are an
weeds is usually acceptable, but in a fine lawn option for isolated weed problems.
they will look unsightly and can compete with
the grass for water and nutrients. Chemical Moss In summer, moss appears as brown
weedkillers are best applied from April to or bald patches. Dead moss accumulates as
thatch at the base of the grass, preventing air
Daisy in lawn and water reaching its roots. Remove the thatch
with a spring-tine rake and improve drainage
and soil aeration by spiking with a garden fork
or by using a hollow-tine aerator. Dense shade
will always favour moss over grass, so thin or
remove overhanging trees. Feeding your lawn
will encourage strong grass growth that will
outcompete the moss.
Molehills. Our trials havent found any control
methods that work well, but sometimes the
noise of regular mowing or children playing
Chemical weedkillers are best
applied from April to September
when the weeds are in active growth
22 which.co.uk
will discourage moles. Only professional mole
catchers can use poison, or they can set special
traps, but young moles may then move in from
local territories.
Lawn grubs These grubs live in soil and eat
grass roots, causing yellowing or sparse growth
of grass, or bare dead patches above ground.
Biological controls (Nemasys chafer grub killer
and Nemasys leatherjacket killer) are available,
but you need to know which grub youre dealing
with and the best timing for using treatments for
them to be effective. Chafer grubs are larvae of
large flying beetles and their damage is visible
especially in dry weather. Leatherjackets are the
grubs of crane flies (daddy long legs) and do
most damage in spring and autumn. A low-cost
method to flush out leatherjackets is to saturate
the soil with water in the evening, then cover
the surface with a tarpaulin or a black plastic
sheet. By morning, the leatherjackets will be
lying on the surface and can be collected and
destroyed, or left for the birds.
Fairy rings The result of the feeding threads
of a fungus spreading outwards from the point
of infection in ever-widening circles. Grass
dies as the fungus competes for moisture and
nutrients, but it also stimulates grass growth at
the periphery of the infection, resulting in rings.
Chemical control is available only to landscape
contractors, so it might be worth calling one in
if fairy rings are a persistent problem.
Red thread This appears as patches of dying
grass, up to 1m across, often with a reddish
tinge. On closer examination, pink red threads
can be seen among the leaves. It appears in
late summer, in wet or humid conditions. Simply
adding nitrogen (ammonium sulphate at 15g per
square metre) may do the trick, but dont do this
later than August. Once the disease is brought
under control the lawn should recover.
Fairy ring
Other moulds and algae These will rarely kill
the grass but can be unsightly, and there are no
direct chemical controls for gardeners. Rust (so
named after the powdery orange dust on leaf
blades of grass) takes hold on stressed grass.
A lawn feed containing potassium and nitrogen
should help grass recover. Slime moulds are
white or yellow/orange and produce small, grey
fruiting bodies, which release purplish spores
onto the blades of grass. The spores can be
washed from the blades with a jet of water from
a hose. Algae appears as a blue-green or brown
and gel-like mass and becomes slippery when
wet. Aeration of the lawn when soil is moist
will help.
i Find out more
Which? Gardening
members can visit which.co.uk/
garden for regular updates
on the latest tests and trials of
lawnmowers, grass trimmers
and lawn feeds.
which.co.uk 23