V5 A:c Compressor Teardown: Re-Seal...

V5 A/C compressor teardown / re-seal...
6/26/16, 11:00 PM
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Thread: V5 A/C compressor teardown / re-seal...

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07-17-2011, 12:23 AM #1
davida1_hiwaay_net
V5 A/C compressor teardown / re-seal...
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northport, AL Pictures of
Posts: 265 teardown and re-
seal of Harrison
V5 air conditioning
compressor. These
are very common
on the 60V6
engines. They are
very costly as a
remanufactured
unit. The parts to
re-seal them are
http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/48879-V5-A-C-compressor-teardown-re-seal Page 1 of 22
V5 A/C compressor teardown / re-seal... 6/26/16, 11:00 PM
about $30.
I did this write-up

for another forum
but figured it
would have
interest here.
I started with this

unit. I had it on
my 1972 Chevy
Nova until it
started leaking
around the
housing o-rings. It
still cooled fine, it
would just lose
freon over about a
2 month period. It
will go on a 2.8
carburetor engine
in an older a-body
car. I will be
changing the
pulley to a vee-
belt pulley.
First, remove
shaft nut and
install compressor
clutch hub puller.
Remove clutch
hub, making sure
not to lose the
key!
Remove the snap

ring that retains
the pulley to the
compressor.
Install a puller,
making sure the
puller bolt ONLY
presses on the
neck of the
compressor, NOT
the shaft. The
socket sits on the
neck, protecting
the shaft.
The pulley off. I

will be changing
this out for a vee-
belt pulley.
Now use the puller

on the clutch
magnet.
OFF with the

clutch magnet!
Nasty looking. Will

need to clean this
SPOTLESSLY clean
before opening it.
After a few
minutes with the
Purple Soap and
pressure washer,
it's all clean!
Remove the
external parts.
Take out the
compensating
valve and the oil
plug.
Remove the bolts

that hold the
compressor
together.
Use a soft
hammer (or block
of wood) and drive
off the rear
housing.
Remove the valve

plate and inlet
reeds.
Take the old

gasket off the
valve plate.
Clean the valve

plate and reed by
hand with red
scotch brite and
brake cleaner.
Place them in a
clean place.
Cleanlinss is
CRITICAL to this
success.
Brace the shaft on

a block of wood,
then drive off the
front housing by
hammering down
on the mounting
ears.
Be careful the
shaft doesn't pull
out of the barrel
and rotating
assembly. If this
happens, all the
pistons will pop
out and it will be a
pain in the butt to
get it all back
together.
Note the thrust

bearing and thrust
races.
The two o-rings on

the barrel housing
are the ones that
were leaking on
this compressor.
Clean the o-ring

grooves very
thorougly and
carefully. Place
barrel and rotating
assembly in a
clean place. Do
not allow it to get
dirty or it will be
irreparably
damaged.
Now, remove the

snap ring, shaft
seal, and o-ring.
Out of there!
Next, clean the

housings. Pay
close attention to
the areas where
the o-rings slide in
and seat. These
areas must be
free of all dirt,
pitting, and
damage. The
roller bearing
must be blown dry
with air and
immediately oiled
before placing the
cleaned housings
in a clean place.
On the rear
housing, the
compensating
valve bore may be
corroded like this.
Use a tube brush,

then a tube brush
wrapped in Scotch
Brite to clean this
bore.
Place the new

green o-rings on
the barrel,lube
them with silicone
paste. Then install
the thrust bearing
and front housing.
Housing should
push on by hand.
If not, the dowel
pin may not be
lined up.
Now set the inlet

reed on the barrel.
It only fits one
way.
Now the valve

plate. The holes in
the center only
line up one way.
Insert 2 housing
bolts. One must
be in the
SMALLEST hole in
the barrel and
plates. This is the
alignment bolt for
assembly. Install
the new gasket
over the bolts.
Start the 2 bolts

by hand. Press the
housing together
BY HAND allowing
the bolts to slide
and guide the
segments of the
compressor. Do
NOT draw it
together with the
bolts.
Should push
t0gether like this:
Put thread sealant

on the undersides
of the bolt heads,
and on the
threads. Use it
very sparingly.
Install and tighten

bolts, and your
compressor should
look like this.
Remove old o-
rings from
compensating
element.
Install new o-rings

on the
compensating
element.
Lube it with
silicone paste and
pop it in! Then
place the snap
ring in place.
Now for the shaft

seal. First, install
the o-ring into the
spotlessly-clean
compressor neck.
Now, take the

CLEAN shaft seal
thimble and install
on the shaft.
Lube it with
silicone paste, and
install the seal,
LIP TOWARDS
COMPRESSOR,
using a deep
socket. It should
press in smoothly
by hand.
Should look like

this:
Remove the
thimble and install
the snap-ring.
Sealing complete!
Clean and inspect

the electromagnet
coil. No cracks or
broken pins in the
connector!
Set it on the
compressor, lining
the connector up
with the flat spot
where it was
originally aligned.
Drive it down,
using a punch or
extension.
It should be
completely flush.
Now, clean all

rust, paint, and
grime out of the
pulley in the area
where the magnet
fits. This pulley
already has a new
bearing or else I
would change that
too!
Put grease in the

bearing bore and
on the compressor
neck. Tap it on the
compressor and
isntall snap ring. If
it is tight, tap
carefully on the
bearing INNER
race with a brass
punch.
Clean and inspace

the clutch hub.
This is for a V5.
You can tell by the
triangle-shaped
counterweight.
The other
compressors have
a non-
counterweighted
hub.
Mount the hub

installer. NEVER
drive hub on with
hammer, it will
destroy the
compressor. Drive
it about half way
and then take the
installer tool off.
Inspect to make
sure the key is in
place. If the key
falls out and gets
trapped under the
hub, it will destroy
the new shaft
seal, and possibly
the housing.
Press the hub on

with installer, until
there is about a
paper's width of
gap.
Key is in place.
Install the shaft

nut. Not all
compressors have
this nut. It does
not retain the hub,
it only keeps the
key from walking
out.
Vacuum test. All

ports plugged
except for one.
Pulled it down to
30"Hg and it holds
vacuum overnight!
New connector.
This is going on a
carburetor 2.8
engine. I am
converting it to
this car and need
the correct
connector. This is
also why I put a
vee-belt pulley on
there.
This is all the old

junk! Nothing
wrong with the
compressor other
then the seals and
gaskets.
The part numbers

of the parts used
are:
Santech MT2120 -
body seals and o-
rings
4 Seasons 440-
630 - shaft seal,
o-ring and snap
ring
The compensating
valve o-rings were
in my o-ring set
but not included in
the above kits.
Remember the V5
requires a fill of oil
through the port
in the side. It
takes 9 ounces of
PAG 150 oil.
Hope this clearly

explains the
disassembly and
re-assembly of the
V5 compressor!
Later,
David
David Allen - Northport, AL

1986 Century T-Type, Iron Head 3.1 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
1988 Olds Ciara XC, GenII 2.8 MPFI Turbo-Intercooled
1972 Chevy Nova, 305 Small Block V8 EFI
1984 Century Olympia, 3.8SFI Turbo, over 400 HP
http://home.hiwaay.net/~davida1
http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbokinetic
07-17-2011 12:23 AM # ADS
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Join Date: Always
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Posts: Many
07-17-2011, 08:48 AM #2
pocket-rocket Very very nice write up. I know I've wanted to avoid that $300 price
tag for one of these babies, but I've never priced the parts for one
Because stock sucks...
to reseal it.
Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 6,264
-60v6's 2nd Jon M.

91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress
here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally Posted by Jay Leno
Tires are cheap clutches...
07-17-2011, 08:24 PM #3
davida1_hiwaay_net
Originally Posted by pocket-rocket
Join Date: Nov 2006 Very very nice write up. I know I've wanted to avoid that
Location: Northport, AL $300 price tag for one of these babies, but I've never
Posts: 265 priced the parts for one to reseal it.
Thanks!
I got the kits off eBay but with the Santech part number, Advance
Auto can order it.
Also, the special tools used all came from Auto Zone and Advance
Auto. They may still rent them, but for sure still sell them. Same
tooling used for V5, HR6/DA6, R4, and most of the newer
compressors on the Chevy trucks.
Later,
David
07-17-2011, 09:27 PM #4
pocket-rocket I've already got the clutch plate puller, I got it off of ebay years ago.
Before the Pep Boys in Mishawaka closed down, they had one in
Because stock sucks...
stock and I got impatient waiting for one to come in the mail, so I
bought one there too. The ones I got off of ebay (one was the V5,
the other a Ford) were NAPA brand ones, and I don't recall the
brand of the Pep Boys one.
Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: Elkhart, Indiana
Posts: 6,264
-60v6's 2nd Jon M.

91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress
here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally Posted by Jay Leno
Tires are cheap clutches...
07-21-2011, 11:03 PM #5
bszopi Promoted to article.

Please comment in the
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article.
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down-re-seal...
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 9,128
www.dalesauto.ca
-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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V5 A:c Compressor Teardown: Re-Seal...

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What's New? Articles Forum Downloads Gallery

Forum Misc Off Topic V5 A/C compressor teardown / re-seal...

Oil Free Air Compressors

Thread: V5 A/C compressor teardown / re-seal...

Thread Tools Display

I did this write-up

I started with this

Remove the snap

The pulley off. I

Now use the puller

OFF with the

Nasty looking. Will

Remove the bolts

Remove the valve

Take the old

Clean the valve

Brace the shaft on

Note the thrust

The two o-rings on

Clean the o-ring

Now, remove the

Next, clean the

Use a tube brush,

Place the new

Now set the inlet

Now the valve

Start the 2 bolts

Put thread sealant

Install and tighten

Install new o-rings

Now for the shaft

Now, take the

Should look like

Clean and inspect

Now, clean all

Put grease in the

Clean and inspace

Mount the hub

Press the hub on

Install the shaft

Vacuum test. All

This is all the old

The part numbers

Hope this clearly

David Allen - Northport, AL

07-17-2011 12:23 AM # ADS

Join Date: Oct 2003

-60v6's 2nd Jon M.

Tires are cheap clutches...

Join Date: Oct 2003

-60v6's 2nd Jon M.

bszopi Promoted to article.

Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

Previous Thread | Next Thread

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