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5.Jul/Aug 2002

BrewingwithFruit:Techniques
Author:BYOStaff
Issue:Jul/Aug2002

Howtopicktherightfruitforyoursummerbrew.

Asspringfadesintosummer,theproducedepartmentatmylocalsupermarketfillswithfruitsandvegetables.Asthesummerprogresses,
theselectiongetswiderandthecolorsgetbrighter.Asahomebrewer,Ilookatallthisbountyandthink,"Hmmm...IwonderifIcouldfermentanyofthis?"

Historically,fruithasbeenabsentfrombreweriesinmostmajorbrewingcenters.TheuseoffruitinbeerwasbannedinGermanyfrom1516to1987whenthe
Reinheitsgebot(theGermanBeerPuritylaw)wasineffect.Englishbrewersuseadjunctsinsomeoftheirbeers,buttherearenotraditionalBritishfruitbeers.
Theuseoffruitdoes,however,havealonghistoryinBelgianbrewing.Belgianbrewersflavortheirlambicswithcherriesandraspberriestomakekriekand
framboise,respectively.Morerecently,lambicshavebeenflavoredwithpeaches(Peche)andblackcurrants(Cassis).

IntheU.S.,neitherlawnortraditionhasrestrainedtheuseoffruit.Mostbrewpubsandmanymicrobreweriesofferfruitbeers,oftenassummerseasonals.A
samplingofAmericanfruitbeersincludes:SamAdamsCherryWheat,Pete'sStrawberryBlonde,MagicHat's#9(apricot),BuffaloBill'sPumpkinAle,New
Belgium'sTwoCherryAle,CaveCreekChiliBeer,Leinenkugel'sBerryWeiss(loganberries,elderberriesandblackberries)andSeaDogRaspberryWheat.
Amonghomebrewers,raspberriesandcherriesarethetwomostpopularfruitsusedinbrewing.

Makingagoodfruitbeerdoesn'trequireanynewequipmentandtheproceduresforusingfruitaresimple.Themostcommonfearhomebrewershavewhen
contemplatingtheirfirstfruitbeeriscontaminationofthebeerwithmicroorganismsfromthefruit.Inpractice,thisrarelyhappens.Tomakeagoodfruitbeer,
youfirstneedtoexaminetheflavorsoffruitandhowtheycanbeusedinbrewing.Thatisthesubjectofthismonth'sinstallmentof"Techniques."

Fruit

Thebiologicaldefinitionofafruitisthematureovaryfromafloweringplant.(Thefruitmayalsocontainsomeflowerpartsinadditiontotheovary.)This
definitionincludesmostofwhatwethinkofasfruitsaswellasmanyfruitsthatwecommonlycallvegetables(suchastomatoes,peasandpeppers).This
definitionfurtherincludesmanyplantstructuresthatarenottypicallyeaten,suchasthe"helicopters"frommapletrees,thewhitefluffiesonadandelionand
thestickyburrsofmanyplants.Hopcones,incidentally,arefruits.Interestingly,thebiologicaldefinitionofafruitexcludesjuniperberries.These"berries,"
usedinthemanufactureofgin,comefromtheovaryofanonfloweringplant.

Theculinarydefinitionoffruitisasweet,ediblepartofaplant,oftencontainingseeds.I'llusethismoreutilitariandefinition,sincetheonlyfruitsofinterestto
brewersarethesweet,sugaryfruitsthatcaneasilybeusedtoaddflavor,colorandfermentablesugarstofruitbeers.

Sweetness

Mostfruitscontainbetween10and15percentsugarwhentheyareripe.Theleastsugaryfruitsarelimes,whichcontainlessthanonepercentsugar.Themost
sugaryaredates,whichcontainupto60percentsugar.Mostfruitscontainamixtureoffructose,glucoseandsucrose.SeeTable1forthepercentsugarcontent
ofmanybrewingrelevantfruits.

Thesugarsfromfruitswillraisethespecificgravityofyourbeer.Forlargeadditionsoffruits,youmaywanttocalculatehowmuchthespecificgravitywill
increase.

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9/21/2016 BrewingwithFruit:Techniques
Youcancalculatehowmuchafruitadditionwillaffectitsspecificgravitybyusingthefollowingformula:

SG=[WfruitX(Psugar/100)X45]/Vbeer

Intheequation,SGisthespecificgravityincreaseduetofruits.Itisgivenin"gravitypoints,"orthedecimalportionofaspecificgravitynumber.Wfruitisthe
weightofthefruitinpounds.Psugaristhepercentageofsugarinthefruit.Thenumber45istheextractpotentialingravitypointsperpoundpergallon
ofsimplesugars(suchasfructose,glucoseandsucrose).Vbeeristhevolumeofbeeringallons.Forexample,ifyouuse10poundsofcherriesinyourfive
gallonbatchofcherrywheat,youwouldcalculatethespecificgravityadditionlikethis:SG=[10(14/100)45]/5=12.6,orabout13gravitypoints.Ifyour
wheatbeerweighedinat1.048beforethecherrieswereadded,itwouldnowhaveaspecificgravityof1.061.

Mostfruitsaresweeterthanthebeertheywillendupin.So,whenabeerdrinkertastesafruitbeer,thefruitflavorsareexperiencedinabackgroundthatisless
sweetthaninthefruit.Thismayexplainwhythemostpopularbrewingfruitsarelowinsugar.Thefruitflavorinhighsugarfruitsmaynottastequiteright.

Ifyouwishtoaddsweetnesstoafruitbeer,youcanaddanonfermentablesugarsuchaslactosewhenyoubottleorkegthebeer.Theamountofsugaryou
addwilldependonhowmuch"sweet"youwantinthebeer.Yourbestbetmaybetoslowlysweetenapintofyourfruitbeeruntilyoureachalevelof
sweetnessyouenjoy.Fromthatbasis,calculatehowmuchsugaryouwillneedtoaddforfivegallonsofbeer.(Thereare40pintsinfivegallonsofbeer.)In
fivegallonsofbeer,6.4ouncesofsugarwillraisethesugarpercentagebyonepercent.Lactose,however,isnotverysweet.That'swhycommercialbrewers
sweetentheirsweetbeerswithfermentablesugarsfollowedbypasteurization.

Thesugarsinfruitscomefromthebreakdownofstarchesduringtheripeningprocess.Therearetwomainformsofplantstarch,amyloseandamylopectin.
Fruitsalsocontaincarboxymethylcellulose,whichiscommonlycalledpectin.Incooking,pectinshelpjamsandjelliesthicken.Whenheated,suchaswhen
boiledinwort,pectinscanbeextractedfromfruitandcausehazeproblemsinbeer.Fortunately,mostcommonbrewingfruitsincludingraspberries,
cherries,strawberries,blueberries,apricotsandpeachesarelowinpectin.(Whenmakingjamorjelliesfromthesefruits,cooksmustaddpectintogetthem
togel.)Mostwinemakingstoressellanenzymethatdegradespectins,calledpectinase.Inbeersinwhichhighpectinfruitisheated,thisenzymecanbeused.
Todoso,addpectinaseatarateof1/4tsp.perfivegallonsduringprimaryfermentation.

Acidity

Therearemanytypesofacidsfoundinfruits,includingmalicacid,citricacidandtartaricacid.Malicacidistheprimaryacidinapples,apricots,cherriesand
peaches.Raspberriesandallcitrusfruitsarehighincitricacid.Tartaricacidisfoundingrapes.

Asfruitripens,theacidcontentofthefruitdeclines.However,evenripefruitshavepHvalueswellbelowneutral(pH7).Table1alsogivesthepHvaluesof
variousfruitscommonlyusedbyhomebrewers.ThesepHvaluesdonothavedirect,quantitativeuseinbrewingasthenumbersforsugarcontentdo.However,
somequalitativeconsiderationsareworthdiscussing.

ThepHofmostfruitsislowerthanthatofmostbeers,whichusuallyhaveapHof4.04.6.SoaddingfruitstobeerwilllowerthepHofthebeerandmay
makeitmoretart.Conversely,thebeerdrinkerwillexperiencethefruitflavoringinfruitbeersatahigherpHthaninthenativefruit.Itisinterestingtonote
thatthemosthistoricallysuccessfulfruitbeerslambicshavealowerpHthanmostbeers.ThepHoffruitlambics(3.33.5)overlapsthepHrangeof
fruitsusedinlambics.

SomebrewersattempttomaketheirfruitbeersmoreacidicsothatthebeerpHisclosertothefruit'snaturalpH.Youcandothisbyaddingfoodgradeacid.If
youmakealambic,aciditywillcomefromlacticacidproducedbybacteria.Whenaddingacid,yourbestbetmightbetodrawoffasmallsampleofyourfruit
beerandaddacidtoseeiftheflavorimproves,andifso,whatrateofacidadditiontoapplytoyourbeer.Forfivegallonsofbeer,youwillprobablyendup
addingonlyafewteaspoons.Mostwinemakingshopssellmalicacidandcitricacid,soyoucanaddtheappropriateacidforyourfruitifyoudesire.

Color

Manyfruitbeersexhibitthecoloroftheiraddedfruit.Lambicsandwheatbeersarelightcoloredbeersthatallowthecolorofthefruittoshow.Fruitcanalso
addapleasingreddishcasttodarkerbeers,suchasstoutsandporters.Fewfruitbeersfallinbetweenthesecolorextremes.

Thecolorinfruitsandotherplantpartscomesfromthreemajorpigmentfamilies:chlorophylls,anthocyaninsandcarotenoids.Thegreencolorinplantscomes
fromchlorophyll,themoleculesthatabsorblightenergyfromthesun.Chlorophyllisnot,however,amajorpigmentinmostfruits.

Anthocyaninsareresponsibleformostofthered,purpleandbluecolorsinplants.Thesemoleculesgivecherries,raspberriesandblueberriestheircolor.
Unlikechlorophyllandcarotenoids,anthocyaninsarewatersoluble.Soaddingredfruittoabeerwillmakeareddishcoloredbeer.AnthocyaninsarealsopH
sensitivetheyaremorereddishatlowpHvaluesandbluerathigherpHvalues.Inbeer,thepHislowenoughthattheywillalwaysbeonthereddishendof
thespectrum.Asaconsequence,blueberrybeerswillturnoutred.

Carotenoidsareresponsibleformanyoftheyellowandorangecolorsfoundinplants.(Theyarealsoresponsiblefortheredcolorintomatoesandbellpeppers,
althoughmostredcolorsinplantsareduetoanthocyanins).Carotenoidsarefatsoluble.Thusfruitsrichincarotenoidswilltransferrelativelylittlecolorto
yourbeer.Pumpkinbeers,forexample,arenotbrightorangeincolor.

Ifyouwishtoadjustthecolorofyourfruitbeer,youcouldaddfoodcoloring.Itwilltakealittleexperimentationtofindtherightamounttoadd.Ingeneral,
however,thenaturalcolorofthefruitshouldbesufficienttogetapleasingcolor.Artificialcolorstendtolook,well...artificial.

Astringency,BitternessandDeath

Fruitsareedible,butanyassociatedplantpartsarelikelyinedibleorunpalatable.Themajorityofplantpartsarechemicallydefendedtopreventanimals
(especiallyinsects)fromeatingthem.Theleavesandstemsofmostplantstastebitterorastringent,dependingontheplantspeciesandplantparts.Trimoff
otherplantpartsfromfruitsthatyouuseinbrewing.

Thepitsofsomefruits,includingcherriesandpeaches,containcyanogens.Plantcyanogensarebrokendowntoreleasehydrogencyanide(HCN)whenthe
plantisdamaged.Cyanideisapotentanddeadlypoison.Yetitoccursnaturallyintinydosesinmanyfoodproducts.(Limabeans,forexample,contain
cyanide.)Itishighlyunlikelythatyoucouldaddenoughfruittoabeertocausecyanidepoisoning.However,manybrewersremovefruitpits,justtobesafe.
Pitscanalsoimpartatannic,almondliketastetobeer,soremovingthemwillalsoimprovetheflavor.

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ChoosingaBeerStyle

Manypeople'sonlyexposuretofruitbeersarethefruitbeersmadebymanybrewpubs.Inthesefruitbeers,thebrewermixesfruitwithalightaleorlager.The
rationaleisthatthe"blank"backgroundletstheflavorandcolorofthefruitshowthrough.Thisisperfectlytrue,butit'salsowhymostbeerdrinkersdon'tlike
thesebeveragestheydon'ttastelikebeer!

Thebestfruitbeersare,inmyopinion,thoseinwhichtheflavorsofbeerandfruitcoexist.Therearemanybeerflavorsthatcansuccessfullyinteractwithfruit
flavors,andtheseareoutlinedbelowinthediscussionofvariousfruitstyles.Thereis,however,onecharacteristicbeeringredientthatdoesnotmixwellwith
fruitshops.Hopbitternessandaromajustdoesn'tmixwellwithfruitflavors.Whenmakingafruitbeer,it'sbesttochoosebeerstylesthatarelightlyhopped
ortodecreasetheamountofhopsusedinbrewingthebeer.Don'teliminatethehops,buttheirpresenceshouldbesecondarytothefruitflavor.Theamountof
hopsafruitbeercansupportisamatteroftaste,butI'drecommendkeepingthebeerunder18IBUs.

Lambics

Historically,themostsuccessfulfruitbeersarelambics.Inlambics,theflavorofthefruitisbalancedbytheacidityofthebeer.Lambicsaretypicallymade
from65percentpalemaltand35percentunmaltedwheat.Theyarelightlyhoppedwithagedhops.Lambicsarefermentedwithamixofyeastsandbacteria.
Lacticacidbacteriainthelambicsconvertsugarintolacticacid,leadingtoatartflavor.Thelightcolorofbaselambicallowsthecolorofthefruittobe
exhibited.Lambicsaregreatbeers,buttheytakealotoftimeandpatiencetobrew.Inaddition,manyhomebrewersarereluctanttopurposelyintroduce
bacteriaandwildyeastsintotheirbrewingequipment.SeeJeanXavierGuinard'sbook"Lambic"(1990,Brewer'sPublications)formoreinformation.

WheatBeers

Wheatbeersprovideanexcellentbaseforafruitbeer.Inwheatbasedfruitbeers,thecharacteristic"tang"ofthewheatblendswiththefruitflavor.Inaddition,
thecharacteristicyeastaromafromGermanwheatyeastmingleswiththearomaofthefruit.(Ofcourse,Germanbrewerswouldneveraddfruittoawheat
beer.)Americanwheatbeerbrewedwitha"clean"yeastratherthantraditionalwheatyeastcanalsobeusedasabase.However,youshoulduseenough
wheatmalt(inmyopinion,atleast50%)togetagoodwheatflavorinthebeer.Lightcoloredwheatbeersalsoprovideagoodbackgroundforfruitcolors.

Raspberrywheatisaparticularfavoriteofhomebrewers.Thetarttasteandsharparomaofraspberriesmixquitewellwiththeflavorsandaromaofa
traditionalwheatbeer.Inagoodraspberrywheatbeeryoucanclearlytastethefruitandthebeer.TheInternetisagoodsourceforraspberrywheatbeer
recipes.

StoutsandPorters

Thedark,roastedgrainflavorofstoutsandporterscanalsoprovideanexcellentcomplementtofruitflavors.Fruitportersandstoutscanalsobemorehighly
hoppedthanmorelightlyflavoredfruitbeers.However,tomakeagoodfruitstoutorporter,youneedtogetenoughfruitflavorintothebeertocompetewith
thedarkgrainflavor.Thismeansyoushouldonlyusefruitswithlotsofflavors,suchasraspberriesandcherries.Howmuchmorefruityouneedis,ofcourse,
amatteroftaste.ButIrecommendusingatleast25percentmorefruitthanyouwouldinalambicorwheatbeer.

Ofcourse,withdarkbeersthecolorofthefruitislessvisible.Instouts,colorfromthefruitmaynotbeseenatall.Inporters,youmayhavetoholdthebeerup
tothelighttorevealthecolorcontributionofthefruit.However,thedeepredofafruitportercanbeveryappealing.Nexttokriek(cherryflavoredlambic),
raspberryporterismyfavoritefruitstyle.Agoodraspberryporterhasafullbeerflavoraccentuatedbythetartraspberryflavor.Seethesidebaronpage47for
myrecipeforraspberryporter.

HighGravityBeers

Oneotherbeerflavorthatcouldbematchedwithfruitflavorisalcohol.Thisisanunderexploredoption,butitseemstomethatmanymilderfruitflavors
suchaspeachesorapricotscouldcomplementtheflavorofalcoholinastrongaleorbarleywine.Theelevatedesterlevelsthataccompanyverystrongbeers
wouldalsoaddcomplexitytothisbeer.Sincethehoppingratewouldhavetobelow,theresultingbeerwouldbeverysweet.Thiswouldnotbeasessionbeer,
butmightmakeaniceafterdinnerdrinktosipon.

Usingfruit

Brewershavethechoiceofmanydifferentfruits,bothinfreshandprocessedformandtherearemanywaysyoucanaddfruittoyourbeer.Fruitcanbeadded
atmanydifferentbrewingstages.Thetypeandamountoffruityouadd,alongwithwhenyouaddit,willaffecttheextractionofsugar,flavors,aromasand
colorfromthefruit.Therisksofcontaminationfromfruitmicroorganismswillalsovarywiththetechniqueyouuse.I'llcoveralltheseoptionsindetailinnext
issue'sinstallmentof"Techniques."

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9/21/2016 BrewingwithFruit:Techniques

Recipe

RaspberryPorter

(5gallons,partialmash)
OG=1.052FG=1.014
SRM=30IBU=21

Ingredients

4.5lbs.paledrymaltextract
1lb.palemalt(2row)
6oz.chocolatemalt
5oz.roastedbarley
3oz.blackpatentmalt
3.75lbs.raspberries(frozen)
1tsp.Irishmoss
7.5AAUNorthernBrewerhops(1.0oz.of7.5%alphaacid)
Wyeast1056(AmericanAle)orWhiteLabsWLP001(CaliforniaAle)yeast(makeyeaststarter)
0.75cupcornsugar(forpriming)

StepbyStep

Putpalemaltanddarkspecialtygrainsbothcrushedinalargegrainbag.Heatthreequartsofwaterto165Fandsubmergegrainbag.Steepgrains
between154and158Ffor30minutes.Rinsegrainswiththreequartsofwaterat168170F,thensetbagandgrainsaside.Addwatertosteepingwaterto
makeatleastthree,butpreferablyfour,gallonsandbringtoaboil.Removefromheatandstirinextract.Resumeheatingandboilwortfor1hour.Addhops
forfinal45minutesoftheboil.AddIrishmossforfinal15minutesofboil.Coolwortandtransfertosanitizedfermenter.Addcoldwatertomake5.5gallons.
Aeratewortandaddyeaststarter(worttemperature78Forbelow).Fermentforoneweekat68F.Afterthefirstweek,addfrozenraspberriestoasanitized
fermentationbucketandcrushwithapotatomasher.Rackbeerontoraspberriesandletfermentforanadditionalweek.Bottlewith3/4cupofcornsugar.Let
bottlesconditionatroomtemperaturefortwoweeks,thenrefrigerateforoneweek.Toserve,pourbeerintoatallglass,suchasawheatbeerglass.Examine
thecolorbyholdingglassuptolight,inhalethearomaandthendrink.

ChrisColbyisthemanagingeditorofBrewYourOwnmagazine.

Tweet Like 11peoplelikethis. +1

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