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 CONTENTS
JANUARY 2016
ON THE COVER
16 WHERE TO GO IN 2016
From the Pacific to the Amazon and
the African savannah, we pick the 10
places you should visit this year

44 GOOD-TIME SPAS
Healthy living is almost a religion in
California, but theres an alternative
that mixes blissful treatments with a
happy approach to food and grape

68 ROMAN HOLIDAY
As some of its most storied landmarks
emerge from a facelift, its a good time
to return to the Eternal City

78 TAKE IT SLOW

16 When it comes to city-hopping, the

PHOTO: ALAMY

fastest way is not always the best.

Annabelle Thorpe relaxes the pace
Isfahan in Iran is
on our list of places on a train journey from Bangkok
to visit in 2016 to Singapore

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 7


CONTENTS
JANUARY 2016
30
Explore Red Mountain
on a ski trip in Canada
11 EDITORS LETTER
12 CONTRIBUTORS
14 MASTHEAD
16 AGENDA
The Travel Connoisseur on
embracing the wellness holiday;
whats on in the world this
month; Gordon Ramsay reveals
where he had his best meal
and the hottest new foodie
destination; Mike MacEacheran
discovers immaculate powder
and endless sky on the Powder
Highway in British Columbia
34 WORD OF MOUTH
Global travel news including this
years must-see polo matches,
futuristic forms of transport and
the latest hotspots in Yangon.
Plus, actor Matthew Rhys picks
his gastronomy greats
40 OUT OF THE WOODS
A new breed of rural restaurants
are luring foodies away from
Scandinavias cities and bringing
New Nordic cuisine to the fore
8 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
67
Alessandra Ambrosio
on beauty essentials
and packing tips
48
Eat fresh at the
new Shangri-La
in Mauritius
44 WHERE TO STAY
CNT exclusives: inside Shangri-
Las reimagined Le Touessrok
88
Resort & Spa, Mauritius and a
sneak peek of the new Sheraton
Sharjah Beach Resort & Spa;
bed-hopping with Hollywood Pack right for
stalwart Molly Ringwald; classic this months
destinations
and fun hotels in Berlin
58 TRAVEL IN STYLE
Meet all your packing needs
with three-piece matching
luggage sets; take the plunge
with submersible diving
watches; designer Andraya
Farrag on packing essentials
for a trip to Peru; embark on a
journey to India with an exotic
purse; Victorias Secret angel night stay for two at Angsana
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, RHEA SARAN
Alessandra Ambrosio on her Balaclava Mauritius
travel tness routine and
family holidays 94 THE EXPERTS
ON THE COVER
Photographed by
Wheres the best urban spa? Stefania Paparelli
88 GET THE LOOK Model: Svetlana
How to pack for this months 95 STOCKISTS Khodchenkova
trips, from ski destinations Where to shop On Svetlana: Dress by Dior.
to train journeys Serpenti earrings, watch,
bracelet, ring in gold with
114 ROOM WITH A VIEW
diamonds and peridots;
90 WHERE ARE YOU? SHA Wellness Clinic, all by Bulgari
Enter our contest to win a three- Alicante, Spain
Uniquely London
Soak up the past where Winston Churchill once sipped whisky. Embrace the future in an eye-catching
architectural wonder. Take afternoon tea in a Georgian gem where Mayfair meets Marylebone. Rediscover
X

luxuryhotelsgroup.com
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Email: info@luxuryhotelsgroup.com

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Moment
The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with
the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S . C O M
EDITOR'S PHOTO: GAURI NAYAR; ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: ALAMY, MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE
EDITORS
LETTER
This is our
promise to the
reader to be
an essential
source of
honest opinion
W
and must-have
information. You
can trust Cond
hen was the last time you had a
Nast Traveller conversation with the person
to give you the next to you on a ight? And
unbiased inside
no, Do you mind if I raise the
track, with
integrity and partition? is not real conversation. Despite
authority. some airlines adopting lounge areas in premier
cabins, we are, most of us, programmed to
tune out once weve boarded, plugging into
headphones as soon as we sit down, hoping
that the person next to us is not of the chatty
variety. Ive had people tell me they consider
it rude and even an invasion of privacy if
their neighbour tries to engage in any verbal
interaction. While I wouldnt go quite that
far, I will confess to occasionally avoiding eye
contact in order to discourage conversation.
(Meanwhile, some of the greatest champions
of the do-not-disturb air travel philosophy are
the same individuals posting pictures from
their window seats, bubbly in hand, hashtag
#upintheair. Apparently not all on-board
communication is off limits.)
Its no wonder, then, that train travel
feels not just nostalgic but like a completely
different world. For one thing, it forces us
to slow down and be in the moment. And,
importantly, travelling by train is a social affair.
With one of the largest rail networks in the
world, if you spent any time growing up in
Follow us: @cntravellerme Cond Nast Traveller Middle East
Left: Playing the part of a water baby in Mauritius
at Shangri-Las recently opened Le Touessrok
Resort & Spa (the exclusive review on p 48)
India, chances are youve been on a train. I
travelled on a few in my time, including one
journey that lasted nearly two days. Ive read
my way through several books, listened to
Bon Jovi on loop on my Walkman and learnt
to play Uno on a train. Other times, Id just
gaze out at the paddy elds and little villages
we passed, with cows grazing not far from
the track and schoolchildren in navy-striped
uniforms balancing satchels as they made
their way home. But what I remember most
about those trips is the food. The man walking
down the aisle calling, Chai, chai, garam chai,
whod decant thick, fragrant tea into a plastic
cup, piping hot and sweet. And although you
could order food (that was not half bad) in the
First Class AC compartments, travellers always
brought along snacks and sometimes full-
edged meals in portions meant for sharing.
It was an unspoken rule that no one ate their
food without offering it around, and in the
end, people from disparate walks of life would
nd themselves chatting.
On luxury tour trains, where individual
cabins are the norm, there is nevertheless
great opportunity for mingling, in bar and
dining cars and mingle people inevitably
do, as Annabelle Thorpe found on her slow
journey from Bangkok to Singapore aboard the
Eastern & Oriental Express (p 78). If you havent From top: Dizin ski resort in Iran,
travelled by rail in a while, I dare you to fend the Eastern & Oriental Express train
connecting Bangkok and Singapore
off temptation after reading this. and award-winning food in Lima are
Other travel experiences to book this year: all good reasons to travel this year
a trip to Havana before the crowds surge, a
passage to Lima to satisfy your taste buds, a
ski trip in Iran, plus seven more hotspots for
this new year (Where to go in 2016, p 16). No
matter where you go, let your resolution be to
take it slow and maybe, just once, say hello
to the person behind the partition.
RHEA SARAN Editor in Chief
@CNT_MiddleEast
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 11
CONTRIBUTORS
Mark Luscombe-
Whyte
A freelance photographer
specialising in interiors, travel and
portraiture, Luscombe-Whyte
enjoys working with wet-plate
collodion, a photographic
process dating back to 1851.
BASED IN: London and the
South of France
PHOTOGRAPHED: Take it
slow, p 78
THE MOST MEMORABLE PART
OF RIDING THE EASTERN &
ORIENTAL EXPRESS?
Finding myself singing Old
MacDonald Had A Farm in the
bar one night after dinner I
hadnt even had a drink. And the
food was extraordinary. I couldnt
believe what the team managed
to cook in a tiny space that is
constantly moving.
WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL
RADAR FOR 2016?
Asia and the Middle East are on
my radar as there are so many
new things happening in those
regions. This month, I begin a
trip that will take me to Beirut,
Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Dubai
and Istanbul. Im then taking my
long-suffering wife to Buenos
Aires and Salta in Argentina
for a couple of weeks. We have
old friends who live there in a
wonderful house in the middle of
nowhere. Cuba is also really hot
at the moment and I am hoping
to go back again this year.
12 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Stefania Paparelli
Rome-born photographer
Paparelli commutes from
Sardinia, where she lives with
her family, to Paris and travels
around the world for shoots
with Elle, Glamour, Le Figaro,
LOfciel and The Sunday Times.
BASED IN: Cagliari, Sardinia
PHOTOGRAPHED: Roman
holiday, p 68
WHAT DID YOU DISCOVER
WHILE SHOOTING IN ROME?
I discovered a fantastic
trattoria, Fiaschetteria
Beltramme, which does the best
risotto al tartufo in town. I had
never been to Hotel dInghilterra
before and its a very charming
Italian property. I loved MAXXI:
Museum of XXI Century Arts
you cant miss it and I grapefruits with my husband
found a very cool little concept
store called MOTU, which
does amazing evening dresses.
WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL
RADAR FOR 2016?
I am travelling to Mauritius for
a fashion shoot and I plan to
stay on a little longer to relax.
Mauritius is somewhere I have
wanted to visit for a long time
and I cant wait to discover the
beautiful beaches and amazing
nature of the island as well as
the people. Milan and Paris are
always on my travel schedule,
but this year Im also looking
forward to travelling to Santo
Domingo in the Dominican
Republic and to Australia.
Britt Collins
Writing for The Guardian, The
Sunday Times and Harpers
Bazaar, Collins was also the
editor of Voyager, BMIs in-ight
magazine. Her book STRAYS: A
Lost Cat, A Homeless Man And
Their Journey Across America,
will be published by Simon &
Schuster this autumn.
BASED IN: London
CONTRIBUTED TO: Good-time
spas, p 44
THE BEST PART OF
REVIEWING SPAS IN
CALIFORNIA WAS
Palm Springs is full of lovely,
romantic places to stay, but
La Quinta remains among the
most memorable for the little
details and moments. I had the
most incredible facial there, and
loved playing bocce with fallen
on the lawns in the dark,
surrounded by the stars and
the silence of the mountains.
WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL
RADAR FOR 2016?
A BBC wildlife lm-maker once
told me Papua New Guinea was
the strangest, most savage place
shed ever been and she loved it,
so Ive wanted to go ever since.
The Galpagos Islands are on
my list because few things are
more thrilling than dashing off to
far-ung places to see animals.
Tasmania, for its sheer nowhere-
ness and strange animals not
many places combine the wildest
wilderness with a buzzing food,
grape and art scene.
Annabelle Thorpe
Thorpe has been a travel
writer for over 15 years, writing
mainly for The Times and The
Sunday Times, as well as various
magazines and websites.
BASED IN: London and Sussex
WROTE: Take it slow, p 78
WHAT WAS YOUR FAVOURITE
PART OF YOUR RAIL
EXPERIENCE?
There are few travel
experiences that offer real,
old-fashioned glamour, but
the Eastern & Oriental Express
does. For me, the biggest joy
was the open-sided viewing
car: sitting in a pool of sunshine,
watching the Thai countryside
slowly merge into Malaysia was
unforgettable. The g&ts were
pretty good, too.
WHATS ON YOUR TRAVEL
RADAR FOR 2016?
In 2016 Im hoping to head
back to Malaysia, to see more
of Penang, which we stopped
at briey while on the E&O
and which had an amazing mix
of colonial history and ethnic
cultures. Im also keen to nally
get to Sri Lanka. Closer to home,
Croatia is rmly on my radar; my
rst novel, The People We Were
Before, comes out in April,
and its set there so Ill be
talking about it a lot.
CNTMEJAN16-CNTME0116.qxp 23/12/2015 12:23 Page 1

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SLUG

AGENDA
THE TRAVEL CONNOISSEUR  CALENDAR  GORDON RAMSAY

Where to go in 2016
From the Pacic to the Amazon and the African savannah,
these are the 10 places you should visit this year
SAFARI SPOT
BOTSWANA
The southern African nation celebrates 50 years of independence
with exciting new openings, says SARAH KHAN

B
otswanas appeal as a classic safari
destination is timeless: It boasts a
great mix of topographical diversity
and a staggering range of activities from
elephant-back rides to river cruising all
in a fairly compact region. As the country
celebrates its 50th anniversary, a host of
new lodges and eagerly awaited reopenings
are gearing up to welcome tourists.
&Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari
Lodge (from AED 4,190 per person all
inclusive; 0027-11-809 4300, andbeyond.
com) completed a rebuild in late 2014 that
recast it in contemporary style, with sinuous
suites that envelop their inhabitants like
a cocoon while blending seamlessly into
the environment. The 12-tent Belmond
Eagle Island Lodge (from AED 3,120 per
person all inclusive; 0027-21-483 1600,
belmondsafaris.com) set on its own island
in the Delta, reopened in November with
canoe, barge and helicopter safaris among
its activities. Come March, Desert & Delta
Safaris (0027-11-394 3873, desertdelta.
com) will unveil its update of Camp
Okavango (from AED 1,870 per person
all inclusive): the entire property will be
elevated, maximising views in all directions.
But the biggest news this year comes
from bush icon Wilderness Safaris (from
AED 8,420 per person all inclusive; 0027-
11-807 1800; wilderness-safaris.com). The
new, nine-tent Qorokwe Camp is set on a
private concession overlooking a lagoon
thats a hit with hippos. Also on deck: the
operator is staggering the renovations
of its beloved Mombo Camp and Little
Mombo Camp, and opening the temporary
Mombo Trails Camp to accommodate
guests during the update.
For travellers looking to maximise
their time in the region, celebrated safari
operator Micato Safaris (001-212-545
7111; micato.com), which counts David
Beckham, Princes William and Harry and
Robert De Niro among its clients, launches
a new 13-day Cape Town to Okavango
Delta itinerary in March (from AED 44,620
per person all inclusive), allowing visitors
to traverse the Delta by foot, four-wheel
drive and makoro canoe.
As if all this werent enough, travelling
to Botswana just got a bit easier,
particularly if you were hoping to tack
a little grape-and-beach break on to
your trip: Beginning March 11, South
Africas Airlink (yairlink.com) will launch
direct ights to Maun from Cape Town,
meaning ying through Joburg is no
longer your only option.

16 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 SLUG
Spot wildlife from your tented
room at Belmond Eagle Island
Lodge in Botswana
PHOTO: MARK WILLIAMS

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 17


The Sixty Mile Fish dish includes
squid, huarango and clam. Right:
The chefs Octopus in the Desert
Chef Virgilio Martnez Vliz of Central Restaurante, named Latin Americas best restaurant last year,
talks to VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN about presenting Peru on a plate
The ingredients you use are inspired
by the Pacic and the Peruvian Andes.
Tell us more.
Our aim is not just to nd unique ingredients.
We get the stories behind these great
ingredients the people, the environment
and landscape theyre surrounded by, and
we try to tell our own stories about whats
happening in the Andes. We also cross the
Andes into Amazonia for this. The ingredients
may be new and unique to us but not for
the locals. We know very little of whats
happening in Peru because of the huge
biodiversity. Travelling gives us tools to
create new things and keep innovation
alive. We try to create menus based on
altitudes. Our style involves perceiving
and understanding each ecosystem.
18 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Chef Virgilio Martnez
Vliz. Left: Scallop
dish Harvest and
Collection at Central
Restaurante
FOODIE CAPITAL
LIMA, PERU
You use products from only one region in
each dish. Why is that?
When we do a dish, everything comes from
one part, either the sea, desert, Andes or
Amazonia. We create a radius and choose
products within that. We respect everything
from a particular ecosystem for example,
we dont use Amazonian products with
Andean products. This adds credibility and
authenticity to what we do. Peru, more than
other parts of South America, has a big focus
and obsession with food.
How does Lima inspire you?
I love Lima, the culture of the sea and ceviche
which used to be our fast food, by the way.
Lima was a seafood paradise 10 years ago and
nothing has changed in that respect today.
The easy-going nature and authenticity of the
people from Lima are what I love the most.
Where is the culinary world headed?
I think its going to change a lot just like the
world is changing. Theres diversity and respect
for different cuisines. Perhaps Russia or Turkey
will come up with something who knows?
Everyones talking about nature, going back
to our roots, which to me means digging out
something new.
You have outposts in Cusco and London.
Are there further plans for expansion?
I will be opening my restaurant, Lima, in
Dubai most likely in March. The culinary
team will consist of people from Lima,
London and Dubai.

GO HERE NOW
HAVANA, CUBA
Fresh from a visit to the time-
frozen city, RHEA SARAN offers tips
for making the most of your trip
E
veryones heading for Cuba. Rihannas
been there, Katie Perry stopped by
and in October Chanel announced that
Karl Lagerfeld has his sights set on Havana for
the brands 2017 Cruise presentation this May.
The warming of relations between the US and
Cuba last year saw a surge in visitor numbers,
with travellers from around the globe keen to
see the country before the changes that will
inevitably follow.
GETTING THERE
Several international carriers y to Havana
via Europe, including Air France, Aeroot,
Virgin Atlantic and KLM. Visitors travelling
from the States have traditionally own via
Mexico or other Caribbean nations. Now
direct charter ights from American cities,
including New York, Los Angeles and daily
ights from Miami are available. You can
book seats through outts like Cuba Travel
Services (cubatravelservices.com) get them to
handle your visa at an additional fee who
also organise on-ground itineraries and hotel
PHOTOS: ALAMY, CORBIS
bookings. Response time can be slow, but
they get the job done. Get to the airport no
later than three hours (they recommend four)
before your ight as you have to pick up the
visa and pay the exit tax and the lines get
long. If your bag is overweight, expect to pay
excess baggage at the airport, and bring only
A view of the Capitol building
from the terrace of Hotel
Saratoga. Left: A classic car
drives down Paseo del Prado
A woman in
colonial-era style
a small carry-on to avoid additional charges.
Upgrading to First is not worth it if youre
taking the 45-minute ight from Miami.
WHERE TO STAY
People say that ve-star doesnt mean the
same thing in Cuba as it does elsewhere.
This is not untrue, but you can nd charming
accommodation options. Hotel Saratoga
(doubles from AED 1,550; 0053-7-868 1000,
hotel-saratoga.com) is centrally located a
stones throw from El Capitolio and the Gran
Teatro de La Habana with a rooftop pool,
two restaurants, a lounge, a spa and well-
appointed rooms. Theres also near-constant
Wi-Fi (a rarity in Cuba) built into the cost
of your room. Downstairs, a travel agent can
make bookings for cigar-factory tours or a
night at Tropicana. In Habana Vieja, the Hotel
Palacio del Marqus de San Felipe y Santiago
WHERE TO GO IN 2016
de Bejucal (doubles from AED 440; 0053-7-864
9191, hotelmarquesdesanfelipe.com) is well-
placed on Plaza de San Francisco. Beyond
the Baroque faade lie friendly staff and clean,
large rooms. Breakfast in the courtyard is
included and very good, so you can fuel
up before exploring the old town.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Exciting new paladares (privately owned,
often family-run restaurants) have emerged
around the city and improved eating out in
Havana. Down a little street near the Catedral
de San Cristbal in Old Havana is Doa
Eutimia (entres from AED 10; 0053-5-270
6433), where tables spill out from the cosy,
art-festooned interior on to a small patio. Start
with a avoured cocktail before tucking into
the tender and delicious ropa vieja (braised
shredded lamb) served with salad, beans, rice
and fried plantain. Call ahead for reservations
as they are always booked out. Housed in a
museum of curiosities walls and furniture
covered in old photographs, artworks, framed
medals and clocks the kitchen at paladar
San Cristbal (entres from AED 10; 0053-7-860
1705) is helmed by jovial chef-owner Carlos
Cristbal Mrquez Valds who specialises in
Cuban-Creole avours, which can be tasted
in the rub of the grilled sh. Other standouts
are the cerdo asado (roast pork) and a seafood
salad with fresh octopus and lobster. In the
Vedado neighbourhood, the agship Coppelia
(ice cream from AED 10; 0053-7-832 3450)
ice cream parlour is a must not just for the
icy scoops topped with cookie crumble and
syrup but because its a slice of Cuban history,
having been created in 1966 in a project led
by Fidel Castro. When in Havana, drink
like Hemingway did at Floridita (cocktails
from AED 20; oridita-cuba.com), where the
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 19

Ice cream
parlour Coppelia
Hemingway daiquiri is said to have been
invented, and at La Bodeguita del Medio
(cocktails from AED 15; 0053-7-571375) if you
can squeeze into the popular watering hole
just off the Plaza de la Catedral. Prepare to
be surrounded by tourists here.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
You could spend your time wandering around
the streets of Havana and you should do
precisely this in Habana Vieja, ticking off
sights like the 16th-century Castillo de la
Real Fuerza off the Plaza de Armas (where
second-hand booksellers peddle their wares),
20 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
A courtyard at the
Colonial Art Museum
Finca Viga was
Hemingways home
for many years and has
been preserved to appear as
if the author just stepped The Room of Mirrors at
out for a minute Museo de la Revolucin
the Baroque Catedral de San Cristbal,
the Colonial Art Museum (entry, AED 10;
0053-7-862 6440) and Hotel Ambos Mundos
(doubles from AED 300; 0053-7-860 9529,
hotelambosmundos-cuba.com), a favourite haunt
of Hemingways. Two unmissable museums
are the Museo de la Revolucin (entry, AED
30; Calle Refugio No 1), housed ironically in
a former presidential palace and containing
interesting exhibits as well as the beautiful
Saln de los Espejos (Room of Mirrors) that
was built to resemble the Versailles palace;
and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (entry,
AED 30; 0053-7-861 0241, bellasartes.cult.cu),
the ne arts museum whose collection spans
from colonial times to current Cuban talents,
including cubist surrealist Wifredo Lam as well
as sculptor Rita Longa. In Centro Habana,
the Gran Teatro de la Habana (tickets, AED 70;
0053-7-861 3077), El Capitolio (entry, AED 15;
422 Industria) and the pedestrianised Paseo
del Prado should be on your list. Also nearby
is one of Latin Americas oldest Chinatowns,
Barrio Chino de La Habana, which is fronted
by a typical paifang to mark the entrance.
Further aeld, a night at Tropicana (ticket
from AED 275; 0053-7-267 1717, www.cabaret-
tropicana.com) is worth the taxi ride out, as is a
visit to Finca Viga (entry, AED 10; 0053-7-691
0809) particularly if youre a literary buff, as
it was Hemingways home for many years and Enjoy a cabaret
performance
has been preserved to appear as if the author at Tropicana
just stepped out for a minute.
 WHERE TO GO IN 2016
OPEN SESAME The UNESCO-listed
IRAN Naqsh-e Jahan Square in
Isfahan. Below: Colourful
With the easing of sanctions and tilework at Sheikh
visas on arrival for most European Lotfollah Mosque

passport holders, this historic

nation is making a comeback
as a holiday destination.
TAHEREH SARIBAN highlights
the gems beyond Tehran

A
ccording to the Farsi proverb, Isfahan
is half of the world, radiating a unique
aura that makes it the city to visit in
Iran in 2016. Its famed 16th-century Islamic
architecture will delight students and laymen
alike, and on a warm spring day when
vendors around the UNESCO-listed Naqsh-e
Jahan Square unfold their cream-coloured
canopies and the sun gleams against the
golden tiles of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque,
the gentle call to prayer resonating throughout
the square expect to be transported to a
different era. The city boasts many ve-star
hotels, but the quiet, understated Dibai
House (doubles from AED 260; 0098-31-3220
9787, dibaihouse.com) offers a truly traditional
experience of 18th-century life around the
bazaar. The period home was carefully
restored by a mother-daughter pair, who serve
piping hot barbari bread and home-made
jams for breakfast. Try the Khoresht-e Fesenjan
stew at Shahrzad (entres from AED 15; 0098-
311-220 4490, shahrzad-restaurant.com) and
afternoon tea in the gardens of the Abbasi
Hotel (tea from AED 5; 0098-313-222 6010,
abbasihotel.ir), both within walking distance
of the city square.
Iran and skiing may not be synonymous,
but as with many other things, the country
breaks with stereotype. Just 45 minutes from
Tehran, on a twisting mountain road, lie the
resorts of Darbandsar, Shemshak and, higher
up, Dizin. Stop at Koohestan restaurant, Iran is home to ski
resorts like Shemshak
right before Darbandsar beside a man-made
icefall, for a hearty, delicious breakfast of
omelette served Iranian style on a bed of arrange for comfortable apartments for rent 2617, manouchehrihouse.com) offers the
fresh tomato pure and khameh asal (cream on a weekly, or even daily, basis. most unforgettable encounter with Iranian
and honey with local bread). The resorts One of the less-explored cities, Kashan, renement. Kashan is best visited in early
infrastructure is limited but with elevations was once an important trading centre, spring; most hotels will assist in enlisting a
between 2,000 to 3,000m and top-quality light producing high-quality pottery and tiles (kashi private driver for a jaunt into the countryside
continental powder, they continue to attract in Farsi, hence the towns name). In the 19th to witness the annual rose water distillation.
winter adventurers from around the world. century, prosperous merchants built lavish The UNESCO-registered red village of
Beginners and those with small children will homes here, many of which have undergone Abyaneh, one of Irans oldest and the site
appreciate the gentle slopes of Darbandsar and renovations and are now public museums, of a Sassanid ruin, is a two-hour scenic drive
the wider lanes of Dizin, while mogul-lovers such as the Khaneh-ye Borujerdiha and the through the semi-arid hills of Isfahan province.
will prefer the steeper inclines of Shemshak. Khaneh-ye Tabatabaei. Other architectural Kashan and the ski resorts are an easy
Views of Mount Damavand on a sunny day are treasures like the Saraye Ameriha (doubles from drive from Tehrans Imam Khomeini
PHOTOS: ALAMY

guaranteed as is the aprs-ski scene, which is
as important to Iranians as the sport itself. Ski
and snowboarding equipment is available for
rent in Shemshak, and its worth striking up
a conversation with the locals who can often
AED 370; 0098-31-5524 0220, sarayeameriha.
com) have recently been turned into boutique
hotels. Restored to its original beauty and
serving excellent local cuisine, Manouchehri
House (entres from AED 15; 0098-31-5524
International Airport, while Isfahan is a
short taxi drive from Isfahan International
Airport. Snow has fallen irregularly in Tehran
province in the past years, so check the
forecast before booking a ski trip.
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 21

Surng at
Barra beach
SPORTS CITY
RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
With the Olympics around the
corner, BETH MCLOUGHLIN
shines a spotlight on the less-known
neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca
Few cities are more recognisable than Rio
de Janeiro, but Barra da Tijuca, where
the Olympics will take place, is a part less
explored. Its gleaming condominiums,
wide open roads, enviable coastline and an
imitation of the Statue of Liberty have caused
it to be compared to Miami. There are even
crocodiles lurking in the bits of swampland,
ALL IN ONE
COLOMBIA
A decade ago, Colombia was better known for corruption, rebels and
kidnappings. But todays cleaned-up reality is of cosmopolitan cities,
unspoilt beaches and world-class outdoor adventures, says CHRIS WHITE
C
olombias capital Bogot is enjoying a
renaissance as one of Latin Americas
coolest cities, booming with museums,
galleries and restaurants. For culture buffs,
there are over 50 museums, and the new
Centro Cultural Gabriel Garca Mrquez
(free entry; 0057-1-283 2200, fce.com.co) is a
must for any fan of Colombias most famous
author. In the citys gourmet quarter
Zona G you can sample the countrys
best fare. Head to Harry Sasson (entres from
AED 20; 0057-1-347 7155, harrysasson.com),
named for its head chef, where inventive
salads and Japanese-style parrilla steak
are menu highlights.
Its easy to city-hop across the country
with safe local airlines. Cali, the spiritual
home of salsa, and laid-back Cartagena, on
the Caribbean coast, are less than 90 minutes
22 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
where the waters are a deep greeny-blue.
Get an overview of the neighbourhood on a
helicopter ride from Jacarepagu Airport. An
eight-minute ride takes you over the Olympic
site, the gloriously wild Tijuca National Park
(0055-21-2491 1700, parquedatijuca.com.br)
the biggest urban park in the world and to
the ocean before returning.
In time for Rio 2016, new hotels have
cropped up. The slick Hilton (doubles from
AED 360; 0055-21-3348 1000, hilton.com),
with its rooftop bar and original artworks is
a recent addition, while the Sheraton Barra
Rio de Janeiro Hotel (doubles from AED 480;
0055-21-3139 8033, starwoodhotels.com) has sea
views and an exceptional spa. Mirroring the
away. The latter hosts Colombias biggest
esta, the Miss Colombia beauty pageant,
a serious business that constitutes a full
week of street parties and dancing in
November. Medelln is the intellectual
capital, in a dramatic setting perched on a
mountainside. It also has a wild nightlife
scene. Rooms at the ve-star The Charlee
Lifestyle Hotel (doubles from AED 590; 0057-
4-444 4968, thecharlee.com) come with amazing
city views and theres a rooftop pool.
Beyond the urban sprawl, theres the
Amazon rainforest to trek through, the soaring
Andes mountains to climb and untouched
beaches to discover, the best being on the
Caribbean coast. Colombia may not have a
Machu Picchu or Patagonia, but for quantity
and quality away from the tourist hordes, its
up there with the best of South America.
afuence of its residents, Village Mall (0055-
21-3003 4177, shoppingvillagemall.com.br)
is packed with labels such as Louis Vuitton,
and its rooftop hosts DJ events and gourmet
food festivals. The young and hip gather near
the rst lifeguard post on Praia do Pep for
daytime lounging, and spill out on to Avenida
Olegrio Maciel at night, to the soundtrack
of samba. A new cycle lane will link Barra
with the rest of the city in time for the games,
and a Metro line will ferry commuters from
Ipanema to Barra in 20 minutes. The Brazilian
Football Confederation has moved its
interactive football museum Museu Seleo
Brasileira (entry, AED 80; 0055-21-3572 2006,
museuselecaobrasileira.com.br) here, too, with
plenty to divert both adults and children.
A gateway to Rios natural wonders, the
lifestyle in Barra is appropriately sporty for the
Olympic City. Surfers cruise the open waters
here and are joined along the 12km Barra
beach by kite surfers and stand-up paddle
boarders. A car ride brings you to smaller,
hidden beaches like Prainha, with its rainforest
backdrop and numerous hiking opportunities,
and secluded Grumari.
As the countdown to the Summer
Olympics (August 5-21) and the Paralympics
(September 7-18) continues, Brazilian
Paralympic athlete and London 2012 gold
medal winner Yohansson Nascimento says,
I think about the stadiums full of Brazilians
cheering, and how much joy it is going to
bring. It is a chance for us to show what we
can do, in sports other than football.
Colourful colonial
architecture
in Bogot

CULTURAL CURRENCY
SAN SEBASTIN, SPAIN
Its known for its talented chefs
and Michelin-starred restaurants,
but the 2016 European Capital of
Culture has much more going for
it, nds VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN
MUSEUMS
San Telmo Museum
For a good dose of Basque art and history,
head to this museum housed in a 16th-century
building, formerly a Dominican convent, in
Parte Vieja (the Old Town). Following a three-
year renovation and expansion in 2011, the old
and new have come together with an avant-
garde building of contemporary architecture.
Dont miss paintings by the likes of Ignacio
Zuloaga and Antonio Ortiz Echage.
Entry, AED 24; 00-34-94348 1580,
santelmomuseoa.com
Tabakalera
Contemporary art, cinema, television, video
and design meet at the inspiring International
Centre for Contemporary Culture that
specialises in the visual arts.
Free entry; 0034-943-01 1311, tabakalera.eu
Aquarium of San Sebastin
Immerse yourself in marine life in the eco-
building which has an acrylic tunnel providing
a 360-degree view of mantas, sharks, turtles
and over 5,000 other marine species.
Entry, AED 50; 0034-943-44 0099,
aquariumss.com
THE ARTS
Victoria Eugenia Theatre
Playing host to cultural events throughout the
year, this modern performing arts theatre built
in Neo-Plateresque style in 1912 is also one of
the most iconic buildings in San Sebastin.
Tickets from AED 120; 0034-943-48 1160,
victoriaeugenia.com
San Sebastin International Film Festival
Rub shoulders with A-list celebrities this
September when one of the most important
international lm festivals takes place in San
PHOTOS: ALAMY, VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN
Sebastin at Kursaal Congress Centre. Since
its inception, actors like Elizabeth Taylor,
Audrey Hepburn, Meryl Streep, Richard Gere
and Brad Pitt have attended.
Tickets from AED 30; 0034-943-48 1212,
sansebastianfestival.com
Heineken Jazzaldia
The San Sebastin Jazz Festival, also known
as Heineken Jazzaldia, will celebrate its
51st year in July, making it one of the oldest
in Europe. Past performers have included Ella
The view from Mount
Igueldo. Below: Tabakalera
specialises in the visual arts
Fitzgerald, Miles Davis, Ray Charles,
Van Morrison and Liza Minnelli. With
over 100 concerts spread across 12 stages
during a ve-day period, theres plenty
to choose from.
0034-943-48 1900, heinekenjazzaldia.com
BEACHES
Zurriola
The liveliest beach, between the Kursaal
Centre and Monte Ulia, is home to surng
competitions, beach volleyball and football.
La Concha
Known as the pearl of the Cantabrian coast,
La Concha is one of the most visited beaches
in Spain and boasts the best bay views.
Ondarreta
Located in the Antiguo quarter, across from
the island of Santa Clara, pretty Ondarreta
(meaning little beach in Basque) is perfect for
calmer watersports like body boarding. Or while
away an afternoon watching sailboats pass.
VANTAGE POINTS
Peine del Viento (Wind Comb)
One of the most visited sculptures in the city, by
Eduardo Chillida, lies at this point with views
of the sea. Though closed until March, Tenedor
Tours (from AED 380 per person; 0034-943-42
2163, tenedortours.com) can arrange private visits.
peinedelviento.info
WHERE TO GO IN 2016
The iconic Victoria
Eugenia Theatre building
Mount Urgull
Put on a pair of trainers and burn off those
pintxos by climbing the steps near the
Baslica of Santa Mara to reach this peak
with breathtaking views of Mount Igueldo
and the deep blue sea. There is a tiny
bar close to the top where you can pause
on the way to Castillo de la Mota, a
12th-century fort.
Mount Igueldo
Imagine a mini Disneyland atop a hill with
the best views of the city and a rooftop
bar to soak it all in from. You can drive or
ride a funicular.
Tickets from AED 10; 0034-943-21 3525,
monteigueldo.es
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Maria Cristina
This Belle-poque hotel opened its doors in
1912 to its rst guest, Spanish Queen Regent
Maria Cristina. Ever since, its been the centre
of many social and cultural events and the
meeting point of prominent politicians, artists
and Parisian couturiers such as Coco Chanel
and Jean Patou. Julie Andrews and Al Pacino
have stayed during the lm festival.
Doubles from AED 1,060; 0034-943-43 7600,
hotel-mariacristina.com
For more on San Sebastins 2016 programme,
visit dss2016.eu
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 23

A Beach Villa at
Anantara Peace Haven
Tangalle Resort
HOTEL HOTSPOT
SRI LANKA
GOVIND DHAR rounds up some of the hottest hotel openings, past and future
Thanks to the end of the civil war, tourism on the island of Sri Lanka
is in rude health. In the past year alone, the south coast has seen two
cosy, light-lled Taru Villas (0094-11-234 0033, taruvillas.com) open in
the 16th-century Galle Fort at 42 Lighthouse Street (doubles from AED
880) and 25 Rampart Street (doubles from AED 1,320) and further along,
Owl and the Pussycat (doubles from AED 880; otphotel.com) a designer-
meets-bohemian, Miami-style boutique property has opened in
Thalpe. The rustic coconut-grove-surrounded Anantara Peace Haven
Tangalle Resort (doubles from AED 1,200; 0094-47-224 4466, tangalle.
anantara.com) opened in Tangalle (with another Anantara planned in
Kalutara for 2016) as did the sleek Ani Villas (villas from AED 17,260;
001-718-577 1188, anivillas.com) by Reda Amalou in Dickwella, while
Uga Escapes Chena Huts (doubles from AED 3,010; 0094-11-233 1322,
ugaescapes.com/chenahuts) just opened in Yala National Park. In the
National Park celebrates
24 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Rustic interiors at
Gal Oya Lodge
eco-luxury space, Gal Oya Lodge (from AED 570; 0094-76-842 4612,
galoyalodge.com), a luxury-safari tented camp on 20 acres of forest near
a national park east of Kandy, was launched.
Looking forward, aside from projects by Shangri-La (in Hambantota
and Colombo), Sheraton and Movenpick, ITCs Colombo One and
the Grand Hyatt will soon open on the capital citys prime Galle
Face Road. Further aeld, Jetwing Jaffna (doubles from AED 800; 0094-
11-234 5720, jetwinghotels.com) is primed to be the largest hotel in the
northern peninsula; the mammoth Weligama Bay Marriott Resort &
Spa (doubles from AED 1,010; 0094-412-25 3920, weligamabayresort.com)
is a Fibonacci-sequence-inspired eco-luxury hotel on Koggala lake;
and The Fort Bazaar (0094-77-363 8381, srilankacollection.com), a
tastefully chic 18-room boutique hotel with a spa and cinema room,
will open on the island, too.
MILESTONE MARKERS
HAWAII
A urry of big anniversaries
make 2016 the year to say aloha
to the volcanic archipelago, says
JENNY JOHNSON
Hawaii has long attracted travellers thanks to
its pristine beaches, tropical foliage, rugged
cliffs and dramatic waterfalls, but theres never
been a better time to explore the Aloha State.
Parades and performances will commemorate
the 75th anniversary of the attack on Pearl
Harbour later this year, while two of the
archipelagos top attractions Haleakala
The beautiful Haleakala National Park and Volcanoes National Park
100 years in 2016 (nps.gov/hi) will be hosting a range of events
and exhibitions to celebrate their centenary.
 WHERE TO GO IN 2016
The Gangnam District
is the heart of Seouls
fashion scene

Printed streetwear
by Steve J &
Yoni P at Seoul
Fashion Week J Koos
tailored styles
on the runway Beyond Closet by Tae Yongs
at Seoul colourful unisex designs.
Fashion Week Above: The designer

Suecomma
Bonnies
quirky
footwear is
a hit with
Korean stars

FOCUS ON FASHION
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA
This Asian city has emerged as an innovative style leader, with global designers now looking
east for inspiration. JENNY JOHNSON lists top fashion names to know

J KOO SUECOMMA BONNIE

Named the womenswear winner of 2015/16s International
Woolmark Prize for the Asia region, designers Jinwoo-Choi and
Yeonjoo-Koo will battle it out for the top prize next month.
Regulars on the stages of Seoul Fashion Week, they have also
showcased their contemporary tailoring around the world, from
Paris and Singapore to Hong Kong and Tokyo.
studiojkoo.com
PHOTOS: CORBIS, ALAMY
A favourite among Korean celebrities and K-pop stars, Bonnie
Lees quirky, Pop Art-inspired footwear is handmade with materials
from Italy and her designs are stocked at top department stores
like Harvey Nichols and Galeries Lafayette, and at online retailers
such as shopbop.com.
suecommabonnie.com
BEYOND CLOSET BY TAE YONG

STEVE J & YONI P
Trained in the UK Yoni at London College of Fashion and Steve
at Central Saint Martins the designers create colourful, printed
streetwear from their studio in Gangnam in the heart of downtown
Seoul. Stocked at Opening Ceremony and net-a-porter.com, they
have also collaborated with the likes of Topshop and LOral.
stevejandyonip.com
This preppy label started as a menswear line, but after
discovering that many of his customers were women including
model and actress Lee Sung-kyung the designer took it unisex.
Showing at New York Fashion Week as part of the Concept Korea
platform, Beyond Closet was also named a cult Korean designer
by vogue.com last year.
beyondcloset.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 25
OPINION
The Travel
Connoisseur
On embracing the wellness holiday
I
t was the eve of Paris Fashion Week
when The Travel Connoisseur walked
into his suite at Avenue Montaigne and
found an envelope waiting for him. There
was, according to the note inside, a change
of plans in his itinerary for the next day:
forgoing all other activities, arrangements
had been made for TTC to spend the entire
morning in the hotels spa.
While many would feel elevated with
unfettered joy and anticipation at such news,
this was not TTCs idea of the ideal scenario.
Despite his sybaritic image, somewhere deep
down he was rather suspicious of pampering
without apparent measureable benets. Of all
the various spa treatments he had a soft spot
only for hammams, which he booked himself
into with military regularity several times a
week though he also believed, theoretically,
in the scientic spas of Switzerland. Singing
Himalayan bowls, energy-infused crystals and
rainbow light therapies, on the other hand,
seemed romantic but remained, in his mind,
quite questionable in terms of effectiveness.
Nevertheless, when the morning rolled
around, TTC descended into the basement
where the spa was hidden. Won over,
tentatively, by the chic Trianon grey interiors
designed by an iconic Parisian fashion house,
he found himself further convinced on meeting
his therapist, who looked like a sharp couturier,
wearing a tailored white uniform and glasses
rather than a oral sarong. Minutes later,
as TTC closed his eyes and the treatment
commenced, he found himself transported back
to the week he had once spent in Merano in
Italy, where hed submitted willingly to being
locked in a luxurious palace for a strict detox,
surrounded as he was here by academic-
looking wellness professionals in white garb.
Soaring high above a northern Italian lake
with a breathtaking panorama of the Alps,
the palace was a true sanctuary of health. The
proprietor promptly conscated the entourage
of bottled vintages that arrived together with
TTC as he explained what the following
week would include: a full-body screening, a
wide array of hydrotherapies, lots of walking
and 3,000 calories in all, stretched over ve
days. Never advanced in mathematics, TTC
still managed to calculate that it meant a
600-calories-a-day diet. To avoid any cheating,
all the minibar in his suite had on offer was
two small bottles of mineral water.
26 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Detoxing is good,
but planning
secret escapes
adds a bit of spice
to the adventure
The rst dinner was memorable. In an
elegant dining room, waiters served tiny
portions of light soups and salad leaves,
explaining each course as if it represented
the epitome of culinary achievement. The
assembled guests a mixed crowd of exhausted
Russian oligarchs and sun-drenched European
grande dames were trying their best to believe.
Traditional salt and pepper were replaced
with herbs; agave syrup presented a healthier
alternative to honey. At the end of the evening,
TTC found himself sitting at the bar which
offered 25 types of herbal infusions playing
chess with another slightly bored guest. At a few
minutes to nine oclock, the palaces unofcial
bedtime hour, a waiter reminded TTC about
the special salts he had to take before going to
sleep. Stay close to your room once youve healthy dose of adrenaline in the right setting
taken these salts, advised the fellow prisoner
of the palace, with an inscrutable smile. The
night that followed was indeed restless as the
body was released of some of its toxins.
Barely awake the next morning, TTC
rejoined his new comrades at breakfast. The
Alpine setting screamed for croissants, artisan
cheeses, butter and jams yet before them
were a few slices of fruit accompanied by
another watery herbal infusion.
Time seemed to stand still in this temple
of health and scientic wellness. TTC had
never felt enlightened enough for yoga,
opting instead for the more traditional jogging
followed by a walk in the park. As he strolled
ILLUSTRATION: GRANT COWAN/EYECANDYILLUSTRATION.COM
through the palace gardens, he heard peals
of suppressed, wicked laugher coming from
the terrace. He approached carefully and
discovered two of the European grande dames
arguing over which of the Merano restaurants
offered the best pasta and which one had
better tartufo di Alba. It has become our
bi-annual tradition, explained one of the
conspirators as TTC joined them. Detoxing
is good, but planning secret escapes adds a
bit of spice to the adventure.
By the end of the week, TTC had made
new friends, all partners in crime who knew
the difference between tagliatelle, pappardelle
and fettuccine, and the addresses of all the
top oenothques and trattorias around. Yet
he still felt rejuvenated and fresh because a
is just as good as losing the kilograms. Did
the owner of the wellness haven realise that
his palace was surrounded by such great
institutions of Italian cuisine? Or perhaps it
was always his intention to provide an element
of danger, to keep it interesting.
A few generous spritzes of TTCs favourite
perfume brought him ying back to the
present, and signalled the conclusion of the
massage at the Parisian hotel spa. He was
back in the city of lights, feeling surprisingly
refreshed and ready for the day at fashion week.
Had he become a wellness convert? Perhaps
not quite, he mused, as his mind wandered to
the vintages waiting in his suite.
CALENDAR
JANUARY
What in the world is happening this month
The winter wonderland of
the Harbin International
Ice and Snow Festival
5-February 25
WHERE Harbin
WHAT Marvel at life-size illuminated ice
sculptures, reworks displays, ice-lantern
exhibitions and winter sports at the Harbin
International Ice and Snow Festival in China.
HOW Dine at Ice Palace at the Shangri-La
Hotel, Harbin, a restaurant created entirely
from frozen water. Keep warm with hot pot
dishes and hot drinks from the Ice Bar.
Hot pot dishes from AED 150; drinks
from AED 25; 0086-451-8485 8888,
shangri-la.com/harbin
5-10
WHERE Helsinki
WHAT Lux Helsinki is a showcase of
light and media installations in the city
centre during the darkest time of the
year. Highlights include Color Park, a light
installation that visitors can play with using
motion and proximity sensors, and the
3D animation Megamap, projected on the
Helsinki Cathedral bell tower to the strains
of classical music.
HOW Participate in the Valoleikkipuisto
(light playground) workshop at the
Annantalo Arts Centre, where you can
paint with lights, then relax in the polar
28 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
night therapy clinic or Book Caf.
Free workshops; 00358-9-3103 6815,
luxhelsinki.
16-24
WHERE Singapore
WHAT With over 80 visual arts events
ranging from exhibitions, gallery openings,
performances and lm screenings to
art tours and discussion panels taking
place across a series of landmark venues,
Singapore Art Week (artweek.sg) attracts
leading regional and international talent.
HOW Dont miss Art After Dark at Gillman
Barracks, an enclave of contemporary art
galleries housed in a former military camp.
Enjoy an evening of live music, pop-up food
stalls and art shows on January 22.
Free admission; gillmanbarracks.com
21-24
WHERE Abu Dhabi
WHAT Part of the European Tours
Desert Swing, the Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf
Championship (abudhabigolfchampionship.
com) draws the sports biggest names for
four days of competition. The 11th edition,
taking place at Abu Dhabi Golf Club,
features a stellar line-up including Jordan
Spieth, Rory Mcllroy and Rickie Fowler.
HOW Check in to The Westin Abu Dhabi
Golf Resort & Spa and catch the action from
the comfort of your private balcony.
Doubles from AED 1,740; 00971-2-616 9999,
westinabudhabigolfresort.com
23-February 7
WHERE Madrid
WHAT Gastrofestival Madrid
(gastrofestivalmadrid.com) returns
to the Spanish capital with events like
Sensory Experiences, offering food
prep masterclasses and tastings, while
Gastroculture features culinary exhibitions,
lectures, workshops and concerts hosted
by Madrids leading art galleries, museums
WORDS: NADA BOKHOWA; PHOTO: CORBIS
and cultural institutions.
HOW Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad
(etihad.com) and Qatar Airways
(qatarairways.com) y direct from the
GCC to Madrid.
BOOK NOW FOR...
FEBRUARY 28 Seychelles
Eco-friendly Marathon, Mah
seychelles-marathon.com

AROUND THE WORLD WITH...
Gordon Ramsay
The celebrity chef, who recently launched his restaurant
Bread Street Kitchen in Dubai, on where hes had his
best meal and the hottest new destination for foodies
Where in the world have you had
your best meal?
It was on my rst big date with my wife, fe,
Tana. I was in Nice and she came down n the fastest way to get over jet lag is to
for the weekend, so I took her to dinner er
at Alain Ducasses restaurant Le Louis
XV. We shared the most amazing lobster ster
sitting on the terrace on one of those
perfect summer nights. Whenever we go
back there, which we do every couple e of
years, its just as unspoiled as it was 20
0 Theres a great love of fast cars and Im a bit
years ago. I set the standard way too
high too early, though.
Whats your earliest travel memory?
INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTO: CORBIS
I went to work for Albert Roux in the
south of France at a little place called
Hotel Diva, a boutique property perched
up on the mountain between the French
and Italian border. Its where I had my
training period. I spent six months perfecting
my French, skiing every day and working
every night. We built a little community
and I think those types of things happen
only once or twice in your life. It was my
rst big adventure, as my parents never
had the money to y anywhere so we never
went on a holiday outside the UK. It was
Fresh market
produce in
Hoi An, Vietnam
The food in Vietnam was
excellent. We lived with
a family up in the villages
and really got off the
tourist track
like cramming 20 years of skiing holidays
into six months. I never wanted it to end.
A hotel thats knocked your socks off?
Amanjena in Marrakech. David Beckham
celebrated his 40th birthday there last year
and it was incredible. Its Mediterranean-
meets-Middle East, with stunning fortress-like
buildings, an amazing mountain backdrop
and beautiful sunsets. Just mind-blowing.
Q&A
Ramsay found
Amanjena in
Marrakech incredible
Whats a hot foodie destination right now?
We recently opened a restaurant in
Bordeaux, as did Jol Robuchon, and Alain
Ducasse announced he is opening there, too.
It has exploded in the last 18 months youre
two hours from the Basque Country and
have the most beautiful coastline. Yes, its
notorious for incredible grape but its also
now a foodie hotspot.
A destination that most lived up to the hype?
I lmed Gordons Great Escape in Vietnam
and had a great time. The food was
excellent and not just from the Portuguese
and French inuences. It was so nice
cooking with no dairy and buying fresh
produce twice a day. We lived with a
family up in the villages and really got
off the tourist track.
Your must-have travel items?
Swimming goggles and trunks. I nd
go for a swim. Most hotels have a pool
and Im always the rst in even before
my case is in the room.
What do you enjoy most about the UAE?
I fell in love with the region many years ago.
of a car freak I bring my Ferrari out when
I visit as the roads are extraordinary. I got
into triathlons about three years ago and
Ive heard that theres an ofcial Ironman
in Dubai this year, which Im excited about.
I have done some amazing dives and the
weather is always guaranteed. You can go
for a long weekend and it feels like youve
been on holiday for 10 days. Few places in
the world can deliver that.
Whats on your bucket list?
To race at the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix in my
LaFerrari. Ive got the car so Im halfway there.
Bread Street Kitchen is located at Atlantis,
The Palm, Dubai
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 29
 HIGHWAY
TO (SKI)
HEAVEN
The Powder Highway
in British Columbia
is the stuff of dreams
for big mountain skiers
and snowboarders.
MIKE MACEACHERAN
drives through the
Canadian interior in
search of immaculate
powder and endless sky
30 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
I
t starts out as youd hope. Leaving Vancouver
behind on a road trip into the inner reaches
of British Columbia (BC) and Alberta,
a number of things strike you. First, the
mountain ranges, with such enigmatic names
as Valhalla, Monashee, Selkirk and Bugaboos,
peering imperviously from the horizon.
Then there are the views of vermillion-
coloured lakes and star-studded skies,
endless as the heavens. Such landscapes
are the stock in trade of the Powder Highway,
a loosely connecting series of roads, cosy
winter resorts and ski areas in south-east BC.
The highways furrow and carve their way
through glacial valleys, along the bottom of
deep, birch-lined canyons and up and over
improbable passes, joining the dots between
serene backcountry towns such as Rossland,
Nelson and Revelstoke. Places that top
many a pro skiers bucket list.
ON THE ROAD
TO RED MOUNTAIN
Break up the long journey from Vancouver to
Red Mountain (001-250-362 7384, redresort.com),
the Powder Highways unofcial starting point,
with a layover in the Okanagan Valley, a place
where theres a vineyard around every corner.
The valley is a mix of crystalline mountain
lakes, pillowy hills and vine-strangled farms,
and the main town, Kelowna, has become the
most planted and preened patchwork strip of
 CANADA

Pass through the Bugaboos

mountain range on a road
trip from Vancouver to the
Powder Highway

These highways furrow and carve

Red Mountain is said to be
the starting point of the
Powder Highway. Opposite:
A skier hits the slopes at
the Red Mountain Resort
real estate in western Canada. In the summer
farmers make white and red grape, but in the
chill of winter, when snowdrifts can reach
up to 15m, they work the grape harvest into
stunning iced apritifs. Its been called the
new Napa for good reason.
Two restaurants and graperies to try are
Mission Hill (grape tasting, AED 30; 001-
250-768 7611, missionhillwinery.com), an
architectural delight crowned by a Tuscan-
style bell tower, and Summerhill Pyramid
Winery (grape tasting, AED 30; 001-250-
764 8000, summerhill.bc.ca), an organic
grapery thats home to a fused frame
pyramid-shaped cellar.
Should you be itching to hit the slopes
before leaving, Kelowna sits in the shadow
of family-friendly Big White (001-250-765
3101, bigwhite.com), a ski resort as famous for
its husky rides, tubing and snowmobile tours
as it is for backcountry skiing.
From here, a half day of driving brings you
PHOTOS: ALAMY
their way through glacial valleys,
and up and over improbable
passes, joining the dots between
serene backcountry towns
250-362 7323, theyingsteamshovel.com), a you. It waits in the Ymir Bowl, at the end of
historic Cheers-style inn where everyone the road hidden by the Selkirk Mountains, a
wants to know your name. snow globe of horizon-crunching peaks and
evergreen rs turned milky-white. In a place
NEXT STOP, NELSON like this, a trip to the top of the mountain on
Drop your gaze from the Monashee one of three rudimentary chairlifts takes on
Mountains that frame Rosslands skyline and an existential kind of enormity. Up here,
youll nd yourself on the Crowsnest Highway, you feel giddy just thinking about whats
along which a three-hour drive brings you to suddenly possible.
Nelson, a higgedly-piggedly former mining
town beside Kootenay Lake. OFF-PISTE IN REVELSTOKE
Its an unsung wonder in this remote part Back on the Trans-Canada Highway,
of British Columbia, populated by bohemian- after crossing Upper Arrow Lake by ferry
style cafs, craft microbreweries like the from Nakusp the road ends at Revelstoke
Nelson Brewing Company (001-250-352 3582, Mountain Resort (001-250-814 0087,
nelsonbrewing.com), and rock n roll bingo nights revelstokemountainresort.com), a ski resort with
at the historic Hume Hotel (001-250-352 5331, more vertical than anywhere else in North
humehotel.com). Opening the door here feels America. Such qualities make it the epicentre
like stepping into a Wild West comic walls of every big mountain adventure you can
are adorned with antiques and sepia photos, imagine. Winter-sports addicts max out their
and the restaurant is decorated like a general credit cards while chasing tufts of powder
store lifted straight from a cowboy lm. Its a and impossibly blue skies on adventures with

to Powder Highway proper and Rossland, a
quaint toy town characterised by snow-covered
trees, goggle-tanned locals and smart-saloon
hotels. The pick of these is The Flying
Steamshovel (doubles from AED 260; 001-
time capsule of sorts, a legacy owed to the gold
and silver rush of the 1860s that saw the towns
Baker and Vernon Streets go from bust to boom.
Beyond Nelson, Whitewater Ski Resort
(001-250-354 4944, skiwhitewater.com) ambushes
Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing (001-250-837
5378, selkirk-tangiers.com) or CMH (001-403-
762 7100, canadianmountainholidays.com). Its so
popular the valley seems to be soundtracked by
the non-stop buzz from overhead rotor blades.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 31

CANADA
Eagles Eye Restaurant at the
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
is the highest in Canada. Left:
A window nook in the Royal
Suite at Fairmont Banff Springs

Stop off at the vineyards

in the Okanagan Valley

Its so perfect it looks like a

vintage postcard stuck to a
refrigerator: jagged peaks,
frozen lakes, snow white rs
all the clichs are in place
Near the base of the mountain, Revelstoke
town is prime aprs-ski territory, a collection
of restaurants and bars where men have
summit gleams in their eyes and girls have yeti
hair sticking out from their beanie hats. For
nighttime antics, check out the Village Idiot
Bar and Grill (entres from AED 25; 001-250-837
6240, thevillageidiot.ca) for diner-style burgers
and pizzas, or River City Pub (entres from AED
15; 001-250-837 2107, regenthotel.ca), inside the
Regent Hotel, to disco dance to Daft Punk in
your ski boots. For something more rened,
make reservations at the hotels 112 Restaurant
and Lounge (entres from AED 20; 001-250-837
2107, regenthotel.ca), where farm-to-fork cuisine
is a speciality think BC salmon, Albertan
steak and Pacic lobster.
A few days later, across the Rogers Pass, the
road splits in two at the town of Golden where
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort houses the
highest restaurant in Canada (set menu from
AED 30; 001-250-439 5425, kickinghorseresort.com).
From here, you have the choice of heading
east into Alberta or south to the resorts of
Kimberley (001-250-427 4881, skikimberley.com),
Panorama (001-250-342 6941, panoramaresort.
com) and Fernie Alpine Resort (001-250-423
4655, skifernie.com). Given the right conditions
and a few spare days, you could be lucky
enough to ski them all.
CHECKING IN TO BANFF
Crossing into Alberta brings you to Banff, a place
so perfect it looks like a vintage postcard stuck
to a refrigerator: jagged peaks, frozen lakes,
snow-white rs all the clichs are in place.
Despite its antique weirdness, like
stepping back in time, it remains a natural
playground of mammoth proportions take
your pick from Mount Norquay for skiing
(001-403-762 4421, winter.banffnorquay.com),
Banff Tours for snowshoeing or dogsledding
(from AED 180; 001-403-760 5007, banfftours.
com) or Banff Upper Hot Springs for soaking
those weary muscles (from AED 20; 001-403-
762 1515, hotsprings.ca).
Ultimately, all roads lead to the landmark
Fairmont Banff Springs (doubles from AED
1,040; 001-403-762 2211, fairmont.com/banff-
springs), a tribute to the old-fashioned days of
the Canadian Pacic Railway that was built to
lure the rst travellers from the once richer east
coast. A cross between a Tudor hall and Scottish
baronial manor, it offers comforts of the highest
order. The fabulous turret rooms have an eagle-
eyed perspective of Mount Rundle, an angular
slab of rock and limestone crags described as
Canadas bread and butter mountain. Its one
youll never tire of looking at.
Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com) and Etihad (etihad.
com) y direct from the GCC to Toronto
from where Air Canada (aircanada.com)
ies direct to Vancouver

32 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

SLUG

WORD
OF MOUTH
MALDIVES  YANGON  MATTHEW RHYS  MORE TRAVEL NEWS

WORDS: JENNY KING, LAUREL MUNSHOWER

34 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


The pursuit of polo
From Buenos Aires to Barbados, the sport of kings takes place in some of
the worlds most spectacular spots. Here, some of this years cant-miss games
WHAT: Royal Salute UAE Nations Cup 2016
WHERE: PER AQUUM Desert Palm,
Dubai, UAE
WHY: The soothing green scene of Desert
Palm resort is where the action kicks off this
month as world-renowned players compete
for this prestigious cup. The quality of the
talent is only rivalled by the exclusivity of
the guest list as the polo circuit cognoscenti
WORDS: JENNY KING, LAUREL MUNSHOWER
gather to cheer on favourites during chukkas.
WHEN: January 29; desertpalm.peraquum.com
WHAT: Barbados Open
WORDS: NATASHA FARUQUE
WHERE: Apes Hill Polo Club, Barbados
WHY: The Caribbean spirit, enlivened by steel
drums, makes this idyllic setting a must-do for
fans of the sport. The tournament runs into
the evening, and as the sun dips into the sea it
becomes amply clear why Sir Charles
Williams club is one to tick off the list.
WHEN: Final on March 17; apeshillpolo.com
SLUG
Watch the Royal Salute
UAE Nations Cup action
in Dubai this month
WHAT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gold Cup
WHERE: Cowdray Park Polo Club,
Midhurst, UK
WHY: Set amidst Viscount Cowdrays
16,500-acre West Sussex estate, which also
boasts a cricket square and castle ruins, the
multi-million-pound British Open sees the
nest ponies and players compete in front
of a huge, vocal crowd.
WHEN: Final on July 17; cowdray.co.uk
WHAT: Argentine Open
WHERE: Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
WHY: The fth oldest in the world, this
tournament is a pilgrimage for serious polo
professionals as it boasts the highest number
of best-in-the-world, 10-goal players battling it
out on the eld. The stylish post-play parties,
attended by fans who look like theyve just
stepped off a catwalk, are an added draw.
WHEN: Final on December 3; aapolo.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 35
 2 MINUTES WITH...
Sonu
Shivdasani
The founder and CEO
of Soneva, a pioneer
in sustainable luxury
hotels, on new launches
and travel thats good
for the soul
Tell us about your new concept Soneva in Aqua.
Setting sail from Soneva Fushi in the Maldives
Baa Atoll, Soneva in Aqua is a fully staffed entry-
level mega yacht that affords you privacy but with
the service and standards of our resorts. With just
two cabins, guests benet from a crew of six, a
private spa therapist, a dive instructor, a Mr. Friday
butler and a dedicated chef. Theres four hours of
cruising per day plus water sports and half-board
including grape, with menus created by Soneva
Fushis executive chef and his team. In the master
bedroom, the oor slides back for better viewing
of the marine world below.
What else is on the horizon?
Were going to do two more boat concepts in the
Maldives and then we plan to launch in Oman,
Japan, Ibiza and Bali over the coming years.
Musandam is appealing because it combines the
remoteness of Oman with easy access to Dubai. We
also have Soneva Jani, a new resort on a lagoon in
the Maldives. There will be 24 water villas and the
nearest land is half a kilometre away so youre totally
detached. There are four undeveloped islands to
explore as well as the main island which houses the
clubhouse and the beach villas. The main bedroom
roof in each villa slides back, so you can see the
stars, and theres a water slide into the Indian Ocean.
Whats your idea of a perfect trip?
I like to discover new things its very important
for the soul. The food has to be good not
necessarily chichi or posh, just good. In Florence
I love the simple trattorias and great grape.
soneva.com
Explore the
Maldives aboard
Soneva in Aqua
36 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
The sophisticated
interiors of Redbird
The return of the sexy dining room
Downtown LAs Redbird puts elegant design back on the menu
A
fter suffering massive damage
in the 1994 Northridge SIX MORE BLISSFULLY
earthquake, the Italianate GROWN-UP
Cathedral of St. Vibiana, once the seat RESTAURANTS
of Los Angeles Catholic archdiocese,
is now home to one of the citys best The Continental, Hong Kong
WORDS: LAURENCE LOWE; INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: BILL CURRY, MICHAEL DOSTER
restaurants. Redbird (entres from Entres from AED 40;
AED 25; 001-213-788 1191, redbird.la), 00852-2704 5211
which chef Neal Fraser and his thecontinentalhongkong.com
wife, Amy Knoll Fraser, opened in
the former rectory, centres around Gabriel Kreuther, New York
a stunning courtyard dining room Set menu, AED 420;
dressed in custom-built, elegantly 001-212-257 5826, gknyc.com
modern furnishings. The decidedly
grown-up aesthetic reminds us Mourad, San Francisco
that a polished atmosphere is every Entres from AED 20; 001-415-
bit as important as the quality of 660 2500, mouradsf.com
a restaurants food: The interior
purposely avoids the sort of rugged Spoon and Stable,
industrial chic thats come to dene Minneapolis
every farm-to-table place not just Entres from AED 35;
west of Brooklyn but around the 001-612-224 9850,
world. And the menu is equally spoonandstable.com
impressive, blending deceptively
simple renditions of American staples Spring, London
(chicken pot pie, dry-aged rib eye) Entres from AED 80;
with clever takes on LAs global food 0044-20-3011 0115,
mix (roasted bone marrow with black springrestaurant.co.uk
garlic aioli and spicy kimchi). Amy
and I were trying to design a space Vaucluse, New York
thats more reective of our age and Entres from AED 60;
demographic, Neal says. You want 001-646-869 2300,
to be able to have a conversation with vauclusenyc.com
the person across the table.
 WORD OF MOUTH
TECH CHECK The lit fest will take

The fast and the curious place at the historic

Galle Fort
These futuristic forms of transport, once perfected,
could make travelling a breeze
Imagine travelling from Dubai to Abu Dhabi in just 15
minutes, or from New York to London in an hour. The brains
behind a new wave of futuristic transport systems are
hoping to make this a reality in the not-too-distant future.

Hyperloop
Backed by SpaceX CEO Elon Musk, this supersonic train
could travel up to 1,200km per hour through a sealed
tube, which is pumped permanently to remove air and,
thus, resistance. Track testing begins in California this year,
and the UAE, with its at, open landscapes, has been
earmarked as a potential destination ahead of 2020.

Maglev
Japans new passenger train set a world record with a
speed of 603kmph last year in trials and is scheduled to
begin service in 2027. Named for magnetic levitation
where the carriages hover over the tracks, suspended by
powerful magnets the train is expected to connect Tokyo
and Osaka in around one hour. The train is also being
developed in America, for routes between Washington
DC and New York City, after the Japanese prime minister
gifted the country with the technology.
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON, GOVIND DHAR; ILLUSTRATIONS: SABINA PARKINSON
Bookmark this
Back after three years, the Fairway Galle
Literary Festival is but another excuse to
visit Sri Lankas postcard-pretty beaches. A
cosy collection of some of the worlds nest
literary minds descends upon a 16th-century
Dutch fort in the seaside town, lling it with
discussion and debate. Amidst musical and
theatrical performances, architectural walks
and childrens events, the festival has welcomed
the likes of Tom Stoppard, Richard Dawkins and
Gore Vidal. This year, Sebastian Faulks, George
Soros, Claudia Rankine, Mark Tully, Jeet Thayil
and Pulitzer Prize-winning poet Gregory

Pardlo will be speaking at the revived event,

Concorde-2
Although yet to be built, Airbus has patented a new plane,
which features turbojets, ramjets and a rocket motor that
will transport 20 passengers from New York to London
in an hour almost three times as fast as the supersonic
Concorde jet, which made its nal ight in 2003.
not to mention august Sri Lankan authors
Shyam Selvadurai and Shehan Karunatilaka.
The festival will also award the prestigious
AED 183,000 DSC Prize for South Asian
Literature, as well as the inaugural Fairway
From top: Authors Claudia
National Literary Award. Rankine and Shehan
January 13-17, galleliteraryfestival.com Karunatilaka will speak
at the event

Wrap it up
The vibrant street art of Melbournes Hosier Lane and
the citys creative food scene have been translated into
an oversized cashmere-blend scarf by Aussie brand
Bird & Knoll in collaboration with national carrier Scarf, AED 785,
Bird & Knoll
Qantas and their trend consultant Jessica Hart. The x Qantas
limited edition accessory is available in-ight handy x Jessica Hart

for when the cabin gets chilly and online.

 Colourful parasols at
Bogyoke Aung San
Market. Right: Belmond
Governors Residence
WHATS HOT IN YANGON
LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES hunts down the newest and most noteworthy contributors to Myanmars largest city
SLEEP
The citys hottest new boutique hideaway,
The Loft Hotel, is ideally situated within
walking distance of the gleaming golden
Shwedagon Pagoda. Its 32 pared-back
rooms and suites are cosy yet chic, with
black-and-white photographs of Myanmar
adorning red-brick walls.
Doubles from AED 610; 0095-92-5722 3798,
theloftyangon.com
Belmond Governors Residence is Yangons
most famous hotel. Its an oasis just north
of downtown, with immaculate lawns, a
lagoon-like swimming pool and a spa that
uses organic traditional ingredients.
Doubles from AED 2,020; 0095-1-22 9860,
belmond.com
EAT
Buried behind a sea of street stalls, Feel
Myanmar Food is a top lunch spot.
Choose from an assortment of Burmese
specialities from succulent sticky pork
chunks to prawns fried in tomatoes and
chillis with steamed greens.
Entres from AED 10; 0095-1-511 6872,
feelrestaurant.com
Everything about House of Memories, set in
a charming mock-Tudor villa, is tasteful. At
lunch its an airy (for Yangon) terrace. Come
38 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
nightfall, it becomes a moody, swinging den,
with blues singing out on the grand piano.
Must-try dishes include eggplant salad, beef
with yoghurt and raisins, and pumpkin curry.
Entres from AED 15; 0095-1-52 5195,
houseofmemoriesmyanmar.com
Shan Yoe Yar may lack the atmosphere, but
it serves hard-to-beat Shan delicacies in a
100-year-old house. Be sure you tuck into an
oversized Mine Thauk eggplant curry.
Entres from AED 10; 0095-1-22 1524 Salon, a ptisserie serving an array of
DRINK
The best place to sip a cocktail or two is
the rooftop Vista Bar, which has superlative
views of the cityscape and the Shwedagon
Pagoda, stunningly illuminated at night.
Cocktails from AED 10; 0095-1-55 9481
Another fail-safe establishment is Union Bar
& Grill on the Strand, serving an array of
stirred, shaken and sparkling cocktails.
Cocktails from AED 20; 0095-9250-35
5064, unionyangon.com
The citys newest haunt is The Blind
Tiger, a groovy, speakeasy-themed bar,
where all the cool kids congregate when
the evening closes in.
Cocktails from AED 25; 0095-138 8488,
blindtiger-yangon.com
SNACK
Myanmar is famous for its atmospheric
traditional tea shops. Of these, Lucky
Seven is a relaxed downtown spot to
taste mohinga (a traditional sh breakfast
stew), kaw ye noodles and savoury
buns, all washed down with a cup of
steaming green tea.
Snacks from AED 1; 0095-129 2382
For a touch of glamour, try Acacia Tea
decadent desserts. You could be in
France, almost.
Desserts from AED 10; 0095-155 4739,
acaciateasalon.com
SHOP
Youll need at least a morning to do
justice to the labyrinthine Bogyoke
Aung San Market, a vast covered space
selling everything from jewellery and
fabrics to lacquerware and mother-
of-pearl bowls.
bogyokeaungsanmarket.com
Make a difference by shopping at boutique
store Pomelo, whose mission is to promote
marginalised local producers. From
glassware to papier mch toys, something
is bound to catch your eye.
0095-129 5358, pomeloyangon.com
 WORD OF MOUTH
UNDER THE GRILL
spinach and homemade paneer, topped with
Matthew Rhys an egg and gunpowder sauce.
Signature dish? Every March, a group of us
The Welsh star of The Americans and get together to roast a whole lamb basted
Brothers & Sisters plays a top chef in heavily in salmuera (brine). Eaten with hulks
his latest lm, Burnt. He picks his of bread and lashings of red grape, its an
epicurean experience.
real-life foodie greats Go-to drink? It depends on my mood, the
Splurge treat? As soon as I land at London temperature and the time of year. Favourites
Heathrow I head straight to Dean Street are a pint of dark Irish hops, Ctes du Rhne
Townhouse in Soho, where I gorge on the kind grape or Penderyn malt from Wales.
of traditional British classics I cant nd in New Food to y for? Patagonia for the beef
York. But for old-school elegance, I like The and, even more so, the lamb cooked over a
Wolseley on Piccadilly. It has the glamour to re, asado-style.
make you want to put on a suit and order Strangest sip? Mares milk in Mongolia
something special at the bar before it actually got me merry as it
dinner. But its also relaxed enough was fermented.
for Sunday brunch with a cocktail Desert island ingredients? Good
and a newspaper. coffee, harissa and Maldon sea salt.
Street eat? Theres a food Guilty pleasure? Take a frozen
truck called Dosa Royale at the Snickers ice cream bar, microwave
Smorgasburg food market in it just enough to melt the
Brooklyn that is worth crossing chocolate, sprinkle with sea salt
the Atlantic for. They do all sorts of Dont miss the dosa and dont tell anyone. Including
dosa, from classic curried potato to at Smorgasburg your arteries.
market in Brooklyn

Release any stress at

Rage Room in Toronto
Evil eye jewels
Pieces that cast a protective spell
INTERVIEW: FIONA KERR; WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON, JESSICA DIAMOND; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS

Angry tears
earrings in gold
and gemstones,
AED 26,450, Pear Henna ring in gold,
Ileana Makri tsavorites and cognac
diamonds, price on
request, Ana de Costa

TREND ALERT

All the rage

Scream, smash and even sledgehammer your way
to inner peace in an anger management room
Forget yoga and meditation. The a sledgehammer or club, while at
latest anti-stress solution is demolition Rage Room (from AED 74; 001-647-
therapy. Let it all out with a screaming 800 6977, battlesports.ca/rage-room)
session at Tantrum Club (AED 700 in Toronto, you can trash wooden
per person; 0044-14-4444 9191, furniture and glassware with a baseball
hshotels.co.uk) in Ockenden Manor bat and take home the footage from
Hotel & Spa, West Sussex, or feel your the security camera. At Anger Room
stress ebb away with therapeutic plate (from AED 90; 001-214-431 5587,
smashing at The Venting Place (from angerroom.com) in Texas, you can
AED 15) in Tokyo. Moscow-based even destroy mocked-up rooms that
company Desbosh (from AED 590; simulate your workplace, helping to Mythology Hand of
Fatima Amulet in gold,
007-495-120 0494, debosh.me) release any bottled-up ofce anxiety. diamonds, sapphires Amulette de Cartier ring
offers trashing rooms where You might just want to leave that last and pearls, AED 9,940, in gold, lapis lazuli and
customers can smash up a room with one off your Instagram. Annoushka diamond, AED 23,000,
Cartier
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 39
 WORDS: FIONA KERR, EMILY MATHIESON; PHOTOS: CORBIS, ALAMY
OUT
OF THE
WOODS
Chef Kenneth Hansens
winning dish of hops-
marinated lamb with
salted vegetables at
the Sol over Gudhjem
competition 2014

Its not just Swedens
Favken luring
foodies away from
Scandinavias cities.
A new breed of rural
restaurants is bringing
New Nordic cuisine
to the fore
SWEDEN
SKNE
THE AREA The rolling green hills, farmsteads
and castles of the southern Swedish coast
have seen Skne likened to Tuscany. Beyond
the main town of Malm, which gained three
Michelin-starred restaurants in the Nordic
Cities 2015 guide, this is a region of artisan
producers. Old farms are being transformed into
organic bistros, like eco estate ngavallen.
THE INGREDIENTS Dill and cucumber are
standouts. And simple foodstuffs grains and
lamb form the basis of hearty but unfussy
cuisine. Regional ice grape is the worlds best.
THE STAR CHEF Daniel Berlins cottage
restaurant, Daniel Berlin Krog i Skne Trans,
seats just 14 and epitomises the Skne
mood. Starters are served in the garden; most
ingredients from hackberries to celeriac are
grown on the three-acre site. Hes tipped as
the successor to Ren Redzepi from Noma
and is bringing his food to a wider audience,
planning events like last months The Guest
Series at Lyles in Londons Shoreditch.
Set menu from AED 280; 0046-417-2 0300,
danielberlin.se
STAY A 25-minute drive from Daniel Berlins
eponymous restaurant is Karlaby Kro, a

40 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


farmhouse-turned-inn with an excellent
restaurant, 22 bedrooms around a courtyard
and a spa in the old orangery.
Doubles from AED 950; 0046-414-2 0300,
karlabykro.se
NORWAY
AUSTEVOLL
ARCHIPELAGO
THE AREA Until recently it was mainly
shermen, campers and bird-watchers who
travelled to this smattering of stunning islands
linked by fjords and rocky coves in south-west
Norway. But local chef rjan Johannessen,
Left: Chef Daniel Berlin of Daniel Berlin Krog i Skne Trans restaurant in
Sweden. Below: Gammel Skagen, Denmark
Chefs are keeping it
local with ingredients
grown on site. Left: Enjoy
fresh Danish oysters in
North Jutland
winner of last years Bocuse dOr (the culinary
version of the Olympics), is drawing a new
type of visitor to his just-about-secret restaurant
Bekkjarvik Gjestgiveri. Its off the beaten track
but accessible by boat from Bergen.
THE INGREDIENTS Bleak-weather food
for vegetable dodgers wild sheep,
monksh, salmon.
THE STAR CHEF Johannessen has gained
plaudits for his seasonal seafood menu,
served in a harbourside mansion where
seafaring paraphernalia and original ships
lights are no urban-hipster pastiche. Expect
variations of his prize-winning creation: sole
FOOD
stuffed with shrimp, black bread and dill.
Entres from AED 65; 0047-55-08 4240,
www.bekkjarvikgjestgiveri.no
STAY In the guest house above the restaurant:
the rooms are old-fashioned but have
amazing sea views.
Doubles from AED 790
DENMARK
NORTH JUTLAND
THE AREA The countrys northernmost
region a land of windswept, grass-fringed
beaches and organic farms is the base of
all Nordic cuisine, says local chef Morten
Nielsen of Mortens Kro. And it seems the
areas fresh, salty avours are in the blood of
many of the countrys most accomplished
chefs. The star-making ability of the cooking
school in Aalborg has helped fuel the areas
rise along with a boom in restaurants dotted
along seaside villages and towns.
THE INGREDIENTS Limfjord oysters are
world-famous, says Nielsen. Mushrooms
from Rold forest are the king of fungi
and local spirit Aalborg Akvavit is served
across Denmark.
THE STAR CHEF Kenneth Hansen at
Svinklv Badehotel, a clapboard hotel on
a remote beach, is one to watch following
his turn at 2015s Bocuse dOr.
Set menu from AED 115; 0045-9821 7002,
svinkloev-badehotel.dk
STAY Ruths Hotel near the shing
port of Skagen.
Doubles from AED 950; 0045-9844 1124,
ruths-hotel.dk
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 41

Timeless
ELEGANCE
Be at the heart of the action in Rome
at Grand hotel via Veneto
42 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
The Art Deco interiors
of the Open Suite
Via Veneto View
R
ight on Romes exclusive via Veneto, with its designer shops
and outdoor cafs, and within minutes from the Spanish
Steps and Trevi Fountain, Grand hotel via Veneto is housed
in two renovated 19th-century buildings that have been
combined to create a modern masterpiece. The 116 elegant and
spacious rooms and suites are furnished with handmade Twenties-
inspired Art Deco furnishings. Bright Carrara marble bathrooms are
equipped with Bulgari amenities, and in addition to at-screen TVs
and individual climate control in the guest rooms, there is free Wi-Fi
throughout. The Royal Suite features two bedrooms, one studio, three
bathrooms, a Turkish marble hammam with colour therapy and a
furnished, 250sqm terrace with a panoramic view over via Veneto,
 TRAVELLER PROMOTION
The Royal Suite terrace
overlooks the Roman wall ruins

Porta Pinciana and the Roman wall ruins.

The hotel is also home to an impressive art
collection, with works by Picasso, Mir, Dal,
de Chirico and Guttuso.
With its evocative gallery, arched dining
rooms, paintings by famous Italian artists,
handmade crystal chandeliers and open-air
courtyard, Magnolia restaurants spectacular
interior is the perfect backdrop against which
to enjoy ne Mediterranean-Italian cuisine. At
Time Restaurant & Wine Bar, guests can enjoy
drinks or informal meals in the lively atmosphere
of via Veneto. Its the perfect destination for
breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks or for after-theatre
nibbles as it serves Italian and international
specialities until late. The cocktail menu is one
of the largest in the world.
Designed to help you leave the busy world
behind, AQVA CITY SPA - Sisley Treatment
Center is a rened mix of classic white marble
ttings and state of the art facilities spread over
500sqm with six mahogany treatment cabins
with ergonomic heated beds and individual
polychrome marble showers, the futuristic Vichy
shower and Vitality pool lled with salt water, a
hammam and a relaxation area where earphones
and a playlist can be provided at your bed. It is
the only spa in Rome to stock the exclusive Sisley
Paris products, and guests can choose from a wide
range of treatments including Sisley for the face
and Sisley global anti-ageing treatment.
The striking
hotel entrance
For more information, call 0039-0648 7881

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 43

SLUG

WHERE
TO STAY
SPA STAYS  MOLLY RINGWALD  BERLIN

Good-time spas
Healthy living is almost a religion in California; the state brims with the latest
fads and x-it doctors, while serious get-ups such as The Ashram promise to
undo your wicked ways. But what if you dont want to suffer? There is an
alternative that mixes blissful treatments with a happy approach to food
and grape here the prescription for stress is a double dose of decadence
FOR A FARM-TO-FORK FEAST

BELMOND EL ENCANTO
The holistic spa here has an almost monastic hush. Hummingbirds
and dragonies thrum and the cicadas sing as youre pummelled
into hopeless relaxation. Treatments are exotic and earthy, drawing
from the surrounding landscape of vineyards, wild-ower meadows
and ocean. Theres an emphasis on the seasons, with one-off
specials such as the autumnal soothing sage body treatment that
stimulates circulation and cell renewal; the Pinot and Cabernet
Sugar Crush signature body-scrub treatment and the deep sea
marine facial leave you buffed and beaming. Take a dip in a
soaking tub or retreat to the spa terrace, sipping hand-pressed
juices or calming organic teas. Theres also an innity saltwater
pool, a gleaming tness studio with yoga and dance classes, and
custom-made electric bikes on which to explore Santa Barbaras
grape country. Its no surprise that this gorgeously secluded hotel
was once a bacchanalian escape for lm stars. It has everything a
glamorous hideaway needs: a celebrity past, a glossy spa, fabulous
food. The swanky restaurant spills out on to a terrace with sweeping
44 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
views. The farm-to-table ethos, delivered with urban sophistication,
makes the most of coastal classics: pan-seared salmon; gnocchi and
halibut with blistered tomatoes and kale and pear salad. Many of the
herbs and vegetables are from the kitchen garden and the fruit is
picked every morning. And then theres the Holstein cow, Ellie, who
provides fresh milk for the home-made cheeses, and two beagles
who contribute to the laid-back cosiness. The bungalows have
hardwood oors, plantation-style shutters and private patios. The
lily pond, wisteria arbour, owering trees and climbing roses give
the place a glorious Secret Garden feel, but if you crave some urban
distractions, Santa Barbaras downtown waterfront and the Art
Deco Riviera Theatre, a cinema showing rst-run art lms, are within
walking distance. Back at the hotel, its the small but beautiful details
a well-stocked library, telescopes on each terrace for star-gazing,
handmade chocolate trufes by your bed and Acqua di Parma bath
products that add the glitter to this old-style classic.
Doubles from AED 1,100; 001-805-1845 5800, elencanto.com
 SLUG
Belmond El Encanto is
a glamorous hideaway
in Santa Barbara
WORDS: DAISY FINER, BRITT COLLINS

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 45

 FOR HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR

LA QUINTA
On the edge of Palm Springs, just two hours from LA, this is a palm-
fringed desert escape with citrus groves and secret little courtyards
and coves. Lying in the shadow of the Santa Rosa mountain range,
this hotel was a favourite haunt of the movie crowd from the Twenties
onwards; Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, Katharine Hepburn and others
came to recuperate in the desert heat, hide out or party the weekends
away. The Spanish-colonial aesthetic is evocatively Southern
Californian with a fresh, modern lustre. The whitewashed, red-roofed
bungalows surround sun-soaked courtyards with pools. Most have
private terraces, sunken baths and replaces in the bedrooms (super
comforting) as well as thoughtful touches such as Egyptian cotton
sheets and iPod docks with pre-loaded playlists. Aside from venturing
into the glitz and excitement of Palm Springs, theres little reason to
leave the place, with its tennis courts, golf courses, croquet lawn, a
well-equipped gym, seven restaurants and, of course, a destination spa
and beauty salon. The lavish spa packs in everything, with 35 indoor
and outdoor treatment rooms where guests can take in the scents
and views of the honeysuckle- and bougainvillaea-fringed gardens
as they treat their mind, body and aching muscles to all manner of
marine-based jets, grape-seed body polishes and hot-stone massages.
The 90-minute HydraFacial, a non-invasive skin-resurfacing treatment,
delivers instant results using ultrasound and galvanic currents to push
serums into skin. It detoxes, nourishes and rehydrates by whisking
away dead skin, smoothing ne lines and deep-cleansing pores,
giving skin a silky smooth, dewy glow. Its this sort of treatment that
has earned it such a loyal local following. Retro fans will love Morgans
in the Desert, the hotels signature bistro its clubby vibe and surf-
and-turf menu (scallops with fennel salad, braised short ribs with
wild mushrooms) sizzles with Mad Men-style sophistication. Come
night, retreat to the terrace, where the tiki torches cast long shadows,
surrounded by stars and the silence of the mountains. Spellbinding.
Doubles from AED 1,060; 001-760-564 4111, laquintaresort.com

The pool area at La Quinta,

outside Palm Springs

FOR A NATURAL HIGH

Stay in a Tree House at
POST RANCH INN the Post Ranch Inn
On the stunning northern Pacic coast where cliff faces drop more than 1,000ft to the
sea, Big Sur is a pristine outdoor playground, composed of several state parks. Dirt
paths meander by rivers, waterfalls and redwood canyons. The air is salty and scented
with pine. And here, almost hidden among the trees, is the Post Ranch Inn. The feel is
of understated elegance, with wood-panelled interiors and earthy tones. Stay in one of
the Tree Houses or, for a total hideaway, go for a private cabin with a kitchenette and
fridge stocked with homemade hummus, chocolate-chip cookies, artisanal cheeses
and local grape. Theres no television, but who cares its all about the view from
your deck, where the horizon is so wide that you can actually see the earth curving.
Schools of whales blow in the sea below, tiny rabbits dart out of lavender bushes,
hummingbirds it in among the trees. If hiking, mountain biking or horse riding dont
appeal, set up camp on the wooden sun-loungers by the pool (theres a phone for
ordering drinks and food at lunchtime). And for more downtime, the light-lled spa
with views of the forest delivers treatments that include chakra clearing, a crystal-
and-gemstone therapy that uses burning sage to clear your aura, and an almost tribal
drum session with a local shaman to let go of any painful past experience. Or opt for
the more orthodox organic garden facial, which uses herbs, local honey and minerals
blended for your skin type. Skip dinner in the restaurant and order room service: huge
sandwiches piled with roasted, olive-oil-glossed vegetables, avocado and apples. Then
sit by the re before clambering up to the high, dark-wood bed. The fresh air and wild
surroundings are the ultimate replenishment for tired spirits.
Doubles from AED 2,845; 001-888-524 4787, postranchinn.com
46 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

FOR A SPOILING SANCTUARY
The Pony Room at
Rancho Valencia
RANCHO VALENCIA
Hidden among immaculate horse ranches
and polo elds just a short drive from LA
is a quiet, romantic, solidly slick operator.
The property houses two stunning
destination restaurants and a gigantic
spa-as-sanctuary with a Balinese-style
yoga pavilion. While most of the interiors
are pure Southern California, youll be
wowed by the treatment rooms which
are glowy and Moroccan-inspired, with
ower-lled terraces, rain showers and
deep outdoor tubs. The exotic and good-
enough-to-eat treatments use limes,
lemons and other fruit from the gardens
in original, nurturing treatments such as
desert-g facials (they smell divine and
really pep up tired skin), avocado body
wraps and Valencia-orange massages.
The two-hour couples treatments use
custom-blended essential oils, a clay
body mask, bath soak and massage
followed by a private poolside lunch.
Theres also a gentlemens menu of
facials, body scrubs and deep-tissue
massages. Its the essence of the West
Coast in big, soul-nourishing doses, and
pretty much unfaultable in execution.
The moodily lit restaurant, Veladora,
has won many awards for its rustic,
WHERE TO STAY
seasonally inspired Cali-Med food.
Theres an original Damien Hirst buttery
painting, wrought-iron chandeliers and
oor-to-ceiling windows with views over
the lawns. Its worth coming just for the
freshly baked buttery focaccia served
with aged Parmesan akes doused in
olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Try the
black-trufe risotto or the ricotta gnocchi
with white grape and chilli akes. Despite
the lavishness of the food, almost all the
ingredients are sourced from nearby
Chino Farms and on-site beehives, herb
gardens and olive groves, and meals
are served on reclaimed cast-iron or slate
boards. This place has charm in spades:
even the bar has a cosy beach vibe,
opening on to a terrace with re pits and
cushy sofas among the trees. Rustic and
rambling, it feels more like St Lucia than
San Diego, with its sea breezes, scents
of honeysuckle and tropical sleepiness.
The 49 Spanish-style casitas have four-
poster beds, wooden oors and sunken
living rooms. And every morning, freshly
squeezed orange is delivered to your
door, along with a newspaper.
Casitas from AED 1,710; 001-866-233
6708, ranchovalencia.com

FOR CORK-POPPING FUN

Poached Maine
AUBERGE DU SOLEIL lobster is on the
menu at Auberge
Bordeaux aside, nowhere is as obsessed with vineyards as Napa Valley. This hotel du Soleil
is a big player, full of moneyed San Fran types and serious foodies. Gone are the
hippy dreamers who set out to prove that these slopes could produce grapes to
rival those of France: today, Napa is a big industry with bottle prices to match.
Here, in the forest of Rutherford Hill, there are 11 light-lled houses with two-storey
gabled ceilings and glass walls that lead out on to the terrace (front-facing Saint-
Tropez and Provence, which overlook the valley, are the best). The design has a
relaxed, sparkling California vibe beige wood, cane furniture, sisal rugs and vast
bathrooms. Squeeze in an early game of tennis or a few hours by the tree-lined
pool, where canopies provide shade and the barman is a charmer who can whip up
a killer cocktail in his cute poolside shack. Then, let the tastings begin. The hotel can
organise a tour of vineyards (youll need a driver ask for Steve, a dead ringer for
Donald Sutherland and full of local folklore). Old-school Forman Vineyard is run by
the matter-of-fact Margaret who will explain the vintages, whereas Vineyard 29 is
a slick machine with a controlled approach to grape making. For lunch, The French
Laundry deserves a visit if you can swing a reservation, but if not, eating at the hotel
is no shabby affair. The main, formal restaurant serves up a three- to four-course
extravaganza spiced lamb with dates, scallops with miso and sweet potato,
lobster with apple and grape is chosen from a 74-page book. And then, of course,
there is the spa, built around a courtyard with tinkling fountains. Yoga, qigong
and Pilates are on the menu, and the treatment rooms have tall ceilings and glass
walls at one end that open on to private gardens containing all sorts of delights:
outdoor showers, hot tubs with views of the valley, and calendula, rosemary, lemon
balm and other herbs used in the house-infused oils. Treatments range from reiki
to craniosacral and scrubs made from grape seeds. The Auberge Head to Toe a
scalp rub, full-body massage and foot salt scrub is its signature triumph, after
which a warmed robe is wrapped around you. Even for those not into glugging
grape or belt-loosening lunches, the spa alone makes this spot a winner.
Doubles from AED 2,480; 001-707-963 1211, aubergedusoleil.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 47

CNT
EXCLUSIVE
Shangri-Las Le Touessrok
Resort & Spa
A Mauritian hotel gem is reimagined to great effect, nds RHEA SARAN
D
riving up from Sir Seewoosagur
Ramgoolam International Airport
along Mauritius eastern coast,
the island gradually reveals itself:
sugarcane plantations ank the narrow strip
of tar that runs past small villages perched on
gentle slopes; moored wooden shing boats
bob on clear waters, while in the distance
emerald-green mountains reach up to a blue
sky intermittently interrupted by wisps of
white cloud. My driver smiles often and
keeps up a steady stream of chatter about
the similarities between Creole and French,
and how he struggles to fully understand
the Bollywood movies on television because
its been three generations since his family
moved from Bihar to Mauritius. By the time
we maneuver around an ancient banyan tree
and pull up to the entrance of Shangri-Las
Le Touessrok Resort & Spa, 45 minutes later,
I feel not only rather well-acquainted with
48 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Sega Bar, by the pool,
has nightly live music.
Right: Pumpkin and
feta salad at Republik
this francophone Indian Ocean island but
also incredibly welcome.
This is a feeling that is further magnied
on stepping through the chic, wood-
dominated entrance hall, from where Im
whisked off to a comfortable sofa looking
out toward a sculpted water feature and the
shimmering bay beyond, a welcome drink in
a bamboo cup placed before me. Check in
feels like a social affair a chat between two
friends as we sit in the reception lounge, no
imposing desk in sight. On the meandering
walk past the main swimming pool, along a
cobblestoned path leading to the two-storey
building housing the Hibiscus guest rooms,
cheery greetings of bonjour follow as I pass
the ever-smiling Mauritian staff.
Its no mean feat taking over a historic
hotel, and in Mauritius few properties have
the legendary status that Le Touessrok enjoys,
having long been a playground of the beautiful
The main pool is
fringed by palm trees
and looks out to the bay
and famous. Models have tanned on the
white sands here, and you could be booking
into the very room the Duke and Duchess
of York once inhabited. Even more telling
are the guests whove been returning to the
beachside resort for over three decades. So
when the Shangri-La hotel group took over,
they decided to improve and update rather
than overhaul a smart move that preserves
heritage while bringing the hotel rmly into
the now. Asian touches have been added to
the soothing island dcor that makes liberal
use of locally sourced wood often unpolished
for a rustic-chic feel and clever lighting
features. Walls that obstructed the stunning
views were removed, like in the new Japanese
restaurant Kushi, where lunch can now be
enjoyed with panoramic views of white speed
boats slicing through the crystalline waters of
the bay (from where, one can only presume,
the delectably fresh sashimi must be sourced).
 CNT EXCLUSIVE

Enjoy sushi with a view

at Kushi. Below: A
Frangipani Junior Suite

Wood elements and

clever lighting features
in the airy lobby

The other restaurants are enhanced versions
of their old selves: Safran does upscale Indian
food at dinner time, Sega Bar an open-air
thatched-roof cabana hovering over the
main pool serves smoked Mauritian spirits
and maintains the tradition of nightly live
music (jazz nights are particularly fun), and
renamed Republik Beach Club & Grill is best
for breakfasting on buttermilk biscuits and
scrambled eggs with your toes in the sand.
The guest rooms, too, have been updated
while remaining generously proportioned;
large bathrooms with rain shower heads and
eco-consciously packaged amenities are a
particular highlight. Three wings house the
200 sea-facing rooms and three villas: Hibiscus
opens on to the most active beach with
facilities for kayaking and stand-up paddle
boarding, and is best for families; Frangipani,
PHOTOS: RHEA SARAN, GAVRI NAYAR
Friendly staff
are on hand
to clean your
sunglasses and
offer fruit skewers,
and drinks
are delivered
by Segway
Every guest should spend at least one
sunbathing day on Ilot Mangenie, a private
island open to resort guests and accessed
by a ve-minute boat ride. On arrival at the
island jetty, youre spritzed with rose water,
and seen to a sun lounger from where you
can watch parasailers in the distance. Grilled
meats and cold hops take care of midday
cravings, and the turquoise waters beckon
invitingly (watch out for sea urchins). Guests
at Le Touessrok can also book a round of golf
at the 18-hole Bernhard Langer-designed
championship course on le aux Cerfs,
another island accessible by boat. Those View from the Hibiscus
rooms, toward the
more aquatically inclined will nd every beach and lagoon
conceivable water sport available, including
a recommended hour-long kayaking tour
through the mangroves.
CHI, The Spa, a Shangri-La hallmark, is Traveller tip

on an island connected by foot bridges, is
the most adult-friendly with a pool reserved
for those over 18; and the Coral wing is the
quietest. My Hibiscus junior suite led on to a
balcony with a view past slim palm tree trunks
toward the impossibly blue lagoon. Rooms on
the ground oor come with direct access to
the beach, where friendly staff are on hand to
clean your sunglasses and offer fruit skewers
through the day, and drinks from Republiks
bar are delivered by a gentleman on a Segway.
one of the welcome additions to the resort,
with a menu of classics as well as locally
inspired treatments including a massage where
a sugarcane baton is run over your body to
release deep-seated tension. As the rolling
cane worked the knots out in my back, I
couldnt help thinking that while I was sorry to
have never witnessed Le Touessroks previous
heyday, it seems the best has yet to come.
Doubles from AED 1,960; 00230-402 7400,
shangri-la.com/mauritius/shangrila
Make your arrival smoother by
booking the Yu Lounge service at
SSR International Airport. A limousine
will transfer you from the aircraft to
the private lounge, where you can
relax with a beverage or a snack while
customs and immigration formalities
are completed for you. Theres also
a small Duty Free store.
yulounge.com/yu-lounge-mauritius
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 49
 Take a dip in one of two
innity pools. Right: The
Arabian architecture
of the hotel

Relax with views of

the Arabian Gulf at
Al Mahatta Lounge

CNT
EXCLUSIVE

Sheraton Sharjah Beach

Resort & Spa
Ahead of its ofcial launch later this month, JENNY JOHNSON gets a sneak peek
of Sharjahs most-anticipated beachfront property

L
eaving Dubais cloud-piercing
skyscrapers and gleaming malls behind
and entering sister emirate Sharjah
is like stepping back in time, where
sand-coloured buildings blend harmoniously
with the citys many heritage sites and
historical landmarks. Rising from the shoreline,
like an opulent Arabian sandcastle, Sheraton
Sharjah Beach Resort & Spa takes inspiration
from traditional Middle Eastern architecture
with fortress-style towers, domed roofs and
barajeels (wind towers, originally used as cooling
systems) but offers a contemporary spin with
experimental cuisine and modern facilities.
Just a 30-minute drive from Downtown
Dubai (complimentary shuttles run twice a
day to and from The Dubai Mall) and ve
minutes from neighbouring emirate Ajman
(where you can pop for a nightcap if youve
had your ll of mocktails), the 349-room
hotel the rst Starwood property in Sharjah
50 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
offers a great-value minibreak with the high
standards and personalised service youve
come to expect from the brand.
Gastronomy is a highlight with six venues
offering a range of international cuisine
thats set to shake up Sharjahs dining scene.
Executive chef Serkan Yelkenbasan combines
Far Eastern and Indian avours at seafood
restaurant Marasea, which draws on the
emirates shing heritage with nautical dcor
like rope displays, a net-like carved ceiling
and large sh tanks, and a menu of specialities
including salmon carpaccio with trufe ponzu
and seaweed salad, red snapper fusion and
crispy rice with spicy tuna. Enjoy panoramic
Arabian Gulf views from the terrace at Al
Qubtan (meaning The Captain in Arabic),
a relaxed beach grill with a Caribbean twist,
with dishes like crab cakes, calamari and jerk-
marinated chicken wings alongside tropical
mocktails served in a coconut or pineapple.
Emirati restaurant Arjwan opens this month,
showcasing authentic dishes made using
family recipes of local women, who will also
do live dessert making demonstrations. Gusti
is an intimate Italian eatery and Al Mahattah
Lounge is the place to wind down after dinner.
The signature Link@Sheraton Caf beside
the lobby is a boon for business travellers, who
can enjoy the high-tech business facilities and
stay connected while fueling up on light bites
and freshly brewed Turkish coffee. Club Suite
guests have access to the comfortable top-oor
Club Lounge, with continental breakfast and
snacks throughout the day, and a facility for
booking meeting rooms. The hotel has nine
meeting rooms in total and two large ballrooms
with private entrances, making it well suited
for conferences or events.
For a more relaxed time, spend the day by
the two innity pools one with a swim-up
bar and water-immersed sunbeds or on the
 CNT EXCLUSIVE

Executive chef Serkan

Yelkenbasan in the open
kitchen at Marasea

Emirati restaurant
Arjwan showcases
authentic dishes made
using family recipes
of local women, who
will also do live dessert
making demonstrations
private, palm-fringed beach. Launching later Enjoy authentic Emirati
cuisine at Arjwan. Left:
this month, the two-storey 1,100sqm Shine Tuna tataki at Marasea
Spa will house 15 treatment rooms, a Jacuzzi,
steam room, sauna and the pice de rsistance,
a Turkish hammam. Active types can take part
in various water sports right from the beach
or get a workout at Sheraton Fitness by Exos,
which has a separate male and female gym and
the latest Technogym equipment. Meanwhile,
little ones are entertained at the kids club
with a supervised outdoor play area and a
calendar of activities.
With the Al Hisn Sharjah Fort, the Heritage
Area, Sharjah Art Museum and Souq Al Arsah
just 10 minutes away, the hotel acts as a base
for venturing out and a tranquil retreat to return
to. After a day of exploring, unwind on the
comest Sheraton Sweet Sleeper bed in one of
the sumptuous suites, some with Arabian Gulf
PHOTOS: AASIYA JAGADEESH

views. With the soon-to-be-opened Emirati

Suite, with an outdoor whirlpool, or the Royal
Suite and Presidential Suite, both offering a
private pool on a sea-facing terrace from where
you can watch the sun set, this is the latest
address for a spoil-yourself staycation.
Arabesque detailing
around the comfy Sheraton
Doubles from AED 550; 00971-6-563 0000, Sweet Sleeper bed
sheratonsharjah.com
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 51
TRAVELLER PROMOTION

LUXURY
journey
Arrive in style to
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain
with the hotels exclusive
The chauffeured Rolls-
Rolls-Royce chauffeur service Royce Ghost Series II

D
esigned for the most discerning travellers
ahead of the Saudi holidays this month,
The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain introduces
new packages for visitors residing in
the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia (Dammam,
Al Khobar and Dhahran). Guests can opt for a
chauffeured Rolls-Royce Ghost Series II to transport
them from the comfort of their home to the luxury
resort located on the Bahraini beachfront. Those
staying in the Diplomatic Suites or Villas at the hotel
can look forward to an inimitable journey across the
border in comfort and style in the ultra-luxury vehicle
equipped with complimentary Wi-Fi access. The
hotel features 23 private villas, each with its own
swimming pool, beach access and a 24-hour lifestyle
butler. Each villa has a beautifully designed living
room, three spacious bedrooms and features state-
From above: of-the-art technology. The Diplomatic Suite comes
The hotels pool with an expansive living room and dining area, a
overlooks the sumptuous bathroom with Jacuzzi bath and
Arabian Gulf;
the private villas upgraded bath amenities and a master bedroom
come with their with a king bed for the ultimate comfort.
own pool Packages start at AED 3,990 per night for
Diplomatic Suite guests and AED 10,210 per night
for Villa guests and include complimentary internet
and access to the elite Club Lounge for the duration
of the stay. If guests require transport during their visit,
the Rolls-Royce is available for daily rental that can be
organised through the concierge.

For more information, call 00973-1758 0000 or

visit ritzcarlton.com/bahrain

52 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH...
Molly Ringwald
The novelist, jazz musician and star of Pretty In Pink and The Breakfast Club on heavenly hotels

CAPRI

I had a butler
with my room,
so I invited my
friends over and

we had a big
dinner party

Punta Tragara S
The views from the bedrooms here are incredibly
beautiful. I got married on the Amal Coast and went to
Capri on my honeymoon. Its one of my favourite parts of
the world, although I dont know any Italian, apart from
grazie. I learnt French as an adult and I think I maxed out
on languages there.
Doubles from AED 1,840; 0039-081-837 0844,
hoteltragara.com W Drake Hotel
This place is fun, with a brilliant restaurant
LONDON
W The Dorchester and amazing cocktails. Its on Queen Street
Ive done Graham Nortons TV West, which is a very cool spot with good
show twice and this is where shops. Its also near Ossington Avenue,
they put you up, which is really where all the best restaurants are.
nice. Its just so luxurious I Doubles from AED 620; 001-416-531 5042,
nd it very easy to relax here. I thedrakehotel.ca
judge a hotel on how great the TORONTO
bathtub is and The Dorchester
wins outright on that score.
Doubles from AED 2,015; Htel Louis 2 X
0044-20-7317 6530, I rst stayed here with a girlfriend
dorchestercollection.com when I was 16, and it still looks
exactly the same. We would go

The St. Regis and get strawberries, Nutella and

baguettes, take everything back to
New York X
INTERVIEW: FRANCESCA BABB;

the hotel and have a picnic in the

This hotel is so fancy. Its not room. When I lived in Paris years
at all the way I live, but its later, I made my family who came to
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

fun to dip into that world. I
had a butler with my room,
so I invited my friends over
and we had a big dinner party.
Doubles from AED 2,550; 001-
212-753 4500, stregisnewyork.com
visit stay here, too. My daughter is six
and a complete Francophile, so Ive
promised her well go if she learns
some French rst.
NEW YORK Doubles from AED 560; 0033-14-633
PARIS
1380, hotel-louis2.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 53

BERLIN Stand-out hotels in Germanys coolest city, from bold Bauhaus

NEW IN
TOWN

Check in CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC

to the new SOHO HOUSE BERLIN ELLINGTON

Hotel Amano Location At the end of Torstrasse, an Near the KaDeWe
Grand Central, avenue lined with restaurants department store and the
famous park, Tiergarten
and boutiques
located in Dcor An eight-storey property This Bauhaus building with a touch of Berlin
Mitte, Berlins with Thirties-inspired from the Twenties has white surfaces, high
ceilings and a gold-painted lobby desk
interiors and grafti
historic city by Damien Hirst in
the lobby
centre, close
Clientele A glamorous mix of stars Wealthy German families, more mature
to cultural such as Madonna and guests and savvy business travellers
global creatives
landmarks
such as The Rooms 65 rooms, 20 apartments 285 bright, contemporary rooms with big
and four lofts, some with vintage elements windows and conveniences such as high-
Hamburger like gramophones and claw-footed baths speed internet

Bahnhof.
The 250-room Food & The all-day menu offers satisfying Duke Restaurant is popular with the
property Drink dishes such as pappardelle local crowd. The llet of beef with
with wild boar rag Madeira foam is a great choice
features a
French bistro,
Strengths The Cowshed, a spa where you can gossip The Sunday jazz brunch with live music,
a glossy, over pedicures and cappuccinos but you have to book weeks ahead
backlit bar
and a rooftop Weaknesses The food can be inconsistent. Stick with The hotel charges for internet connection
the brunch and cocktails and can feel a bit clinical
terrace offering Wi-Fi Free Free for one hour per day; then AED 12
scenic views of every further hour, up to AED 50 per day

Price Doubles from AED 440 Doubles from AED 600

the Reichstag.
Contact Torstrasse 1; 0049-30-405 0440, Nrnberger Strasse 50-55; 0049-30-68 3150,
amanogroup.de sohohouseberlin.com ellington-hotel.com

54 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 ROOM SERVICE

classics to fun, retro-style crash pads

GOOD VALUE SPLURGE CHARACTER

MICHELBERGER HOTEL REGENT BERLIN THE MY PLUS ONE STUDIO

Near the Mercedes-Benz Off the charming square of On a street corner of Neuklln, Berlins
Arena and the Spree River, Gendarmenmarkt, near the hippest neighbourhood
in hip Kreuzberg shops on Friedrichstrasse

An old factory turned into a Polished sienna-toned marble, deep-pile An industrial-chic one-room hotel with
glampacker hotel. The lobby has oral carpets and crystal chandeliers a poured-concrete oor and salvaged-
concrete and wood oors and wood ttings in an apartment block
lamps made of old books from the Seventies

A trendy young clientele that includes Celebrities who want to keep a low prole, Young, globetrotting hipsters
indie rock stars, trust-fund backpackers such as Meryl Streep, Tom Cruise and
and Japanese tourists Helen Mirren

110 rooms, from a Dynasty-inspired suite 156 rooms and 39 suites with pastel carpets, With just one room, you get the best of
with golden sheets to an Alpine chalet room antiques and marble bathrooms both worlds: the privacy of an apartment
and the convenience of service, plush
towels and bathroom products

Home-cooked daily lunches and weekend Fischers Fritz is a Theres no restaurant, so its DIY in the
dinners using organic, local ingredients Michelin-starred small kitchenette; but theres a surprise
WORDS: GISELA WILLIAMS; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS

restaurant try the snack on arrival, and a caffeine-fuelled

smoked eel tartare meeting with a local can be arranged
before you get there

The people-watching: the creative start-up The awless service: the staff know The customised map highlighting all
clientele is very arty and interesting guests by name, and how they like their tea the best cafs and shops in the area,
such as Bullysbakery

Sometimes the too-cool-for-school staff The rather-too-formal atmosphere The suite itself is fantastic, but the
arent very friendly or professional building is unattractive

Free Free Free

Doubles from AED 335 Doubles from AED 1,040 Doubles from AED 400
Warschauer Strasse 39-40; 0049-30-2977 Charlottenstrasse 49; 0049-30-2 0338, Niederbarnim Strasse 6; 0049-17-3264
8590, michelbergerhotel.com regenthotels.com 1372, myplusone.net

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 55

 The treatment rooms
come with a private
outdoor rain shower

URBAN
sanctuary
Escape the stresses of city life at the
tranquil Amara Spa at Park Hyatt Dubai

56 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Enjoy a couples treatment in

one of the suites then relax
on the private terrace

S
et in idyllic surroundings on the banks of
Dubai Creek and the world-famous Creek
Golf Course, Amara is a true sanctuary of
luxury and tranquility at Park Hyatt Dubai.
The spa is a tribute to ancient Moorish palaces,
where exotic rituals have been created to stimulate
the senses and soothe and rejuvenate both body and
soul. Amara was designed with local sensibilities in
mind, and privacy and tranquility are top priorities
the spa has its own entrance, which can be accessed
without going through the hotel. The experience
begins in one of the eight treatment rooms,
including three couples suites, each with a private
outdoor terrace, lounge area and indoor and outdoor
rain showers. The spa focuses on rituals using
Europes nest treatments and therapies combined
with indigenous Arabian touches. This month,
book the 120-minute Delicate Detox package for
the special rate of AED 850 (normal price is AED
1,390) and indulge with a 60-minute seaweed
body treatment and a 60-minute detox massage,
complete with a tantalising meal to compliment the
sensory journey and a complimentary spa product
gift worth AED 150. Then relax by the stunning
25m swimming pool, featuring a series of built-in
palm islands, which can be enjoyed complimentary
when receiving a spa treatment, in addition to
the steam room, sauna and tness centre. With its
adjoining private courtyards and cascading water
features, Amara is the perfect sophisticated retreat.
The peaceful,
spacious pool bar For more information, call 00971-4-602 1660
or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 57

TRAVEL
IN STYLE
STYLE
STYL
ST
ST
TYL
YL
Y DE 
LE GUIDE
GUID
GU IDE  HOW
HOW TO
HO ACK  ALESSANDRA
TO PACK
PAC AL
LEES
SS
SAN
SAN
ANDDR
RA AMBROSIO
AMBR
AM
A M
MBR
BR
B ROS
O IO
O

4
3

1 Integra Backpack, Richmond Polycarbonate Suitcase, Integra Laptop Bag; all price on request, Samsonite 2 Toiletry Pouch 26, AED 2,290,
Pgase 55 suitcase, AED 17,500, leather case, AED 18,900; all Louis Vuitton 3 Sinclair Q-Tote, AED 1,585, Tegra-Lite Medium Trip Packing Case,
AED 4,265, Tegra-Lite International Carry-On, AED 3,195; all Tumi 4 Revival Duffel Bag, AED 900, Logoduck Medium Trolley, AED 800, Logoduck
Small Trolley, AED 700; all Mandarina Duck 5 Double bag, AED 12,000, Safano Trunks, AED 28,800 each; all Prada

58 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 THREES
COMPANY
STYLE: DINA KENZHEBAYEVA; PHOTO: VLAD ANTONOV

Meet all your packing needs with

three-piece matching luggage sets

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 59

 Sea-Dweller 4000,
AED 38,610, Rolex at
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
Calibre de Cartier
Diver, AED 27,800,
Cartier

Pontos S Diver,
AED 15,690,
Maurice Lacroix
at Paris Gallery

Prospex Kinetic
Divers, AED 2,630,
Seiko at Al-Futtaim
Watches & Jewellery

DIVE
EDITED: BILL PRINCE; PHOTO: MATTHEW BEEDLE

MASTERS
C60 Trident Pro
600, AED 3,328,
Christopher Ward

Upgrade your beach watch take the plunge

with these serious submersibles
60 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
 WATCHES
PAM 614 Luminor
Submersible 1950,
AED 56,600,
Panerai

Aquatimer Deep
Three, AED 67,700,
IWC Schaffhausen

Dive XL,
AED 4,900,
Gucci at Rivoli

Bathyscaphe
Flyback Heritage Diver 1967,
Chronograph, price on request,
AED 61,600, Longines
Blancpain at Rivoli

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 61

TRAVELLER PROMOTION

HONEYMOON
isle Create lasting memories as a
couple at Coco Bodu Hithi

L
ocated on the island of Bodu Hithi in the North Mal Atoll, and only a
40-minute speedboat ride from Mal International Airport, Coco Bodu The resort is perfect for a
romantic getaway. Above: Enjoy
Hithi is an idyllic island paradise. The resorts 100 island and overwater villas Indian Ocean views and snorkel
are united by a spacious yet intimate feel and dcor that mixes Maldivian straight from the Water Villas
architectural elements, like high-pitched roofs, with modern touches like deep
designer bathtubs. All villas come with outdoor spaces in which to lounge and watch
romantic sunsets, making each one suited to couples.
There are seven restaurants and bars including all-day dining Air, romantic
overwater restaurant Aqua serving fresh seafood, Asian fusion eatery Stars and cocktail
bar Latitude near the innity pool with panoramic views. At Coco Spa, enter a
soothing space where you can select traditional treatments that trace their roots back
to Indonesia, Thailand and India.
Tailored experiences are the highlight of a stay at Coco Bodu Hithi, with many
suited to honeymooning couples. Enjoy the Ultimate Sunset Cruise on a dhoni
with canaps and bubbly or sparkling juice. Or indulge in the signature couples spa
treatment Journey to Maldives which includes a foot bath, seashell massage,
coconut and vanilla body scrub for her, island spice Boreh body wrap for him, a face and
scalp treatment and a spice bath, leading you to a place of synchronised harmony.

For more information, call 00960-664 1122 or visit cocoboduhithi.com

READER OFFER
Honeymooners receive a 25 per cent discount on villa bookings which can be
combined with an early bird offer that includes a welcome cocktail on arrival, a
tropical fruit platter and special bed decoration. Guests in Island and Water Villas
also receive a bottle of sparkling grape and are entitled to a romantic three-course
candlelit dinner and 10 per cent discount on spa treatments, while guests in
Escape Water Villas receive all the above plus a bottle of bubbly. Additionally,
Coco Residence couples are entitled to an in-villa bubbly breakfast or a romantic
candlelit dinner plus 15 per cent discounts at the spa.

62 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 HOW TO PACK

LATIN SPIRIT
Creative director and founder of womenswear label Bedouin,
ANDRAYA FARRAG on whats in her suitcase for a trip to Peru
1 Solarsoft slides, AED 129, Nike at namshi.com 2 Beach bag,
AED 985, Sensi Studio at Boutique 1 3 Cancun dress, AED 1,350,
Bedouin 4 Hat, AED 1,248, Yosuzi at Boutique 1 5 T-shirt, AED
995, T by Alexander Wang at bysymphony.com 6 Sunglasses,
AED 915, Ray-Ban 7 Swimsuit, AED 1,200, Marysia at net-a-porter.
2 com 8 Lancaster Sun Beauty Silky Milk Fast Tan Optimizer
SPF 15, AED 175 9 Denim shorts, AED 755, Frame Denim at
net-a-porter.com 10 Canon Powershot SX410 IS camera, AED 825
11 Espadrilles, AED 1,835, Proenza Schouler at Boutique 1

1
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON; STYLE: SABINA PARKINSON; PHOTO: RAJESH RAGHAV

10

HOT TIP
Minimise weight
11 by transferring
your beauty
products into travel-
sized containers

O n holiday, taking in a countrys architecture

and culture is what its all about for Farrag.
A oaty maxi dress with slip-on sandals
is a no-fuss look thats suited to exploring Limas
boutique galleries and MATE, Mario Testinos
contemporary cultural centre, and it works just
as well for a leisurely lunch or dinner at one of
the citys many lauded restaurants like Hijo de
Olaya, famous for its ceviche, or Central, sister
restaurant to Londons Lima. Farrag switches
up her look in a scalloped-edge swimsuit with
denim shorts, a white tee and mirrored sunglasses
for a relaxed day on Playa Barranquito, watching
surfers ride the waves, adding a pop of colour
and local avour with a woven beach bag and
straw sun hat. No trip to Peru is complete without
a visit to the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu and
comfy at espadrilles do the job.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 63

TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Spa
SANCTUARY Find your bliss at
Dusit Devarana New Delhi

Enjoy a couples treatment at

the Devarana Spa. Below: The
tranquil spa is nestled in nature

S
et on eight acres of greenery and tranquil water bodies, Dusit
Devarana New Delhi is the perfect escape from the bustle of
city life, yet is only a few minutes drive from the airport, and
is near the capital citys ofces, embassies, shopping malls and
markets. The 50 contemporary style rooms have Thai touches, the
latest in technology and views across the lush landscape.
In Thai, Devarana translates as garden in heaven and thats
what you get at Devarana Spa. Inspired by Thai heritage and age-old
treatments, the internationally trained expert therapists treat not just
your body and mind but also the soul. Nestled amidst soothing water
bodies, the spa has extensive outdoor treatment areas including a yoga
pavilion, a glass house tness centre, a Thai pavilion and sand beds.
Treatments, such as the the Devarana Signature Massage combining
Thai, Ayurveda and shiatsu techniques with Swedish and aromatherapy
inuences and the moisturising and detoxifying Darjeeling Tea Body
Scrub, are performed in the four indoor treatments suites with private
verandas. Treatments make use of natural products such as herbal oils,
pastes and scrubs, which were perfected by the experts at Devarana
through extensive research over the past decade. The magic, of course,
lies in the expert hands of the therapists, and their positive energy and
focus on understanding individual needs will leave you feeling lighter,
refreshed and rejuvenated.

For more information, call 0091-11-3355 2211 or visit devarana.in

64 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 TRAVEL ESSENTIAL

TIED TO PLACE
Journey to India with this exotic, embroidered accessory

CNT
Classic

Piloutin Maharadja
bag (limited edition),
AED 5,990, Christian
Louboutin
WORDS: JAYNA MALERI; PHOTO: STEPHEN LEWIS

hristian Louboutin was sitting in trafc in Mumbais

C tony Malabar Hill neighbourhood when a burst of jewel

tones inside a tiny storefront caught his eye. The sun
was hitting it just so, and you could see how beautiful
and colourful the ribbons were, says Louboutin of his chance
sighting of Vivah Borders, an embroidery shop on Nepean Sea
Road. He returned the next day and walked out with 40 plastic
bags overowing with trimmings. I had to buy extra suitcases
to carry it all home, he adds. The result? The Piloutin Maharadja
handbag inspired and dictated by a nite supply of ribbon.
Although each bag is unique, all have hints of shimmering gold,
bold cobalt and, of course, Louboutins signature crimson.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 65

TRAVELLER PROMOTION

The Sesel Spa is a haven for

relaxation. Below: Enjoy a
relaxing couples massage

RELAXATION T
he H Resort Beau Vallon Beach, Seychelles is a warm,
intimate destination that offers opportunities to discover the
treasures of the islands and is conveniently located at the
centre of Mah, Seychelles largest island, on a 3km stretch

vacation Rejuvenate with a spa break

at The H Resort Beau Vallon
Beach, Seychelles
of glistening white sand and crystal clear waters. The resort embraces
the islands natural landscape with the 100 well-appointed suites, villas
and grand villas almost camouaged by the scenery. The H Resort
offers a wide-ranging collection of culinary options blending Seychellois-
inspired cuisine and international offerings, including contemporary
Vascos for Mediterranean with a Seychellois twist, Japanese teppanyaki
spot Seyshima, romantic beachside seafood restaurant Eden and Trader
Vics, which specialises in Polynesian-fusion food and tiki cocktails.
Travellers looking for the true meaning of relaxation can indulge
themselves at Sesel Spa, which offers signature treatments that combine
the nest in Western and Eastern techniques. Implemented by expert
therapists who take a holistic approach to wellness, theres a careful
nourishment of body, mind and soul in treatments like the Sans Souci
(No Worries) De-stress Massage and the Sesel Spa Holistic Facial.
The spa consists of ve single treatment rooms, two couples treatment
rooms, a Vichy Shower room, as well as a salon for nails, hair and other
aesthetic treatments. The spa team has over 25 years of international
experience in homeopathy, aromatherapy, Ayurveda, medical skin care,
energy healing, holistic healing and even life and relationship coaching.
Through their prolic careers, they have worked with celebrities such
as Jennifer Lopez, Bruce Willis, Demi Moore, Roger Federer and
Serena Williams. The Sesel Spa team has also worked together to create
products with signature blends just for The H Resort. Taking a holistic
and individual approach to each guest, one session is all it takes to feel
the effects of the rejuvenating and reenergising treatments.

For more information, call 00248-438 7000 or visit seychelles.h-hotel.com

66 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 TASTEMAKER

Brazilian
beauty
Victorias Secret model Alessandra Ambrosio
on her travel tness routine and family holidays
How do you stay t and healthy
on the road?
I try to exercise in the morning before
work. When Im in Los Angeles I go to
SoulCycle, Pilates Platinum and The
Bar Method, and when travelling I use
the hotel gym. I dont deny myself
anything when it comes to food, but I
make sure the portions are not huge
and that every meal is well balanced.

What are your travel

beauty essentials?
I always carry a good hand lotion,
water mist spray from Mimi Luzon and
Charlotte Tilbury Lip Magic Rejuvenating
Balm to keep my skin hydrated and glowing.
Swimsuit,
What do you pack rst? AED 448;
cover-up, The white-sand
I am fortunate I get to travel to many exotic, AED 460; beaches of Trancoso
warm locations, so the rst thing I pack is both le by
one of my le by Alessandra swimsuits. Alessandra
at s*uce
I always try to nd some time to relax
by the pool or beach.

Do you have any packing tips?

Invest in a great suitcase; spending a little
extra makes a big difference. I nd my
Rimowa luggage stylish and practical
they come in different sizes, never bend
out of shape and have dividers that
keep everything in place.
How do you relax when travelling?
I love listening to music. Youll often see me
INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS
Trancoso, a small shing
village located in Bahia, on
the east coast of Brazil, is
very hippie and simple yet
chic and charming
skiing, paddle boarding, relaxed by
the beach and enjoyed great food at
Scorpios and Nammos. We usually rent

with my headphones on while travelling. I also
like to catch up on movies while in the air.
Whats your favourite city?
Los Angeles, as its my home town now.
I love that its always sunny and that
the beach is never far away. I enjoy
spending time with my children in Santa
Monica. We often rent bikes to ride by
the beach and we visit Santa Monica
Pier, where my kids love to go on the
rides and play at the arcade.
Where do you travel to with your family?
Our last family vacation was in Mykonos
we had the most amazing time. We all
love the water and outdoor activities and
there is so much to do there. We went jet-
a house, but last year we stayed at Santa
Marina and it was wonderful, with all the holidays I go to Trancoso
holidays, Trancoso, a small shing
amenities you need while on vacation village located in Bahia, on the east coast
and the most amazing view. of Brazil. Its very hippie and simple yet
chic and charming.
What are the must-dos for
visitors to Brazil? Where would you like
It depends on where you go to visit next?
as each city has its charms. I have never been to India and
The beaches in Rio are theres so much culture and history
beautiful and the city has great there that Id like to explore. I
shopping. You cant beat Rio wouldnt know where to start but
sunsets and the energy. I love I denitely want to visit Delhi, the
to listen to samba bands and Salsa Deluxe Taj Mahal in Agra and Amritsar
do some stand-up paddling Multiwheel suitcase, to see the Golden Temple.
on Ipanema Beach. I also like AED 3,049, Rimowa
to hike the amazing Pedra da Alessandra Ambrosio is brand
Gvea. During the winter ambassador for Rimowa luggage

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 67

 As some of its most storied landmarks emerge from a
facelift, its a good time to return to the Eternal City

A
Photographed by STEFANIA PAPARELLI s tributes to iconic cities go, few
lms have done it better than Roman
Styled by SARA FRANCIA Holiday. The image of Audrey Hepburn,
fresh from a daring haircut, sitting on
the Spanish Steps eating gelato is one
that endures, and has prompted more
than one copycat photo op at the 18th-
century landmark. Last October, these steps linking
Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinit dei Monti were
closed for renovation thanks to a AED 7.35 million
endowment from Italian luxury jewellers Bulgari, whose
agship store is just a few metres away on Via dei Condotti.
The site is scheduled to reopen fully this spring.
Bulgari is one of a growing number of Italian fashion and
luxury houses whove taken an interest in the restoration of
Romes most important historical sights. In November, the
Trevi Fountain reopened in all its glory to the public after
a 17-month revamp that was sponsored by Fendi. And the
Colosseum has seen sections under scaffolding for a clean-
up and rejuvenation project underwritten by Tods.
As the city gets a new lease on life, Bulgari muse
and actress Svetlana Khodchenkova of Tinker, Tailor,
Soldier, Spy and The Wolverine fame checks out some of
Romes must-see spots.

68 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

MAKE-UP: EMANUELA DI GIAMMARCO; HAIR: MASSIMO SERINI; ASSISTANT STYLIST: ALICE MANFRONI

The Spanish Steps are being

renovated by Italian jewellery and
luxury goods brand Bulgari

Dress, boots; both by Dior. Serpenti

watch, earrings in gold with
diamonds; both by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 69

WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Eden
Over its 126-year history, this hotel has seen
Sigmund Freud, Orson Welles and Maria Callas
check in. There are 121 classically decorated
rooms and suites, and on the roof are a bar
and two restaurants. Order smoked lobster
with black wild rice or the veal Milanese with
cherry tomatoes and rocket salad at Michelin-
starred La Terrazza dellEden, which also offers
panoramic views of the city. The hotel is a
10-minute walk from the Spanish Steps.
Doubles from AED 1,470; 0039-06-47 8121,
dorchestercollection.com
D.O.M Hotel Roma
This boutique hotel in a former monastery
in Piazza Navona has 24 guest rooms, a
restaurant and a bar.
Doubles from AED 1,140; 0039-06-683 2144,
domhotelroma.com
J.K. Place Roma
Not far from Piazza del Popolo, the Pantheon
and the Spanish Steps, there are 30 rooms with
rosewood poster beds. J.K.Cafe specialises in
artisanal burgers try the TBurger with grilled
tuna, hummus and tomatoes or the ITBurger
Assorted cheeses and cold
cuts at Roscioli. Right:
A street in the historic
Trastvere district
70 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
comprising a beef cutlet, broccoli, burrata
and spicy nduja sausage.
Doubles from AED 2,800; 0039-06-98 2634,
jkroma.com
Rome Cavalieri
Part of the Waldorf Astoria network, this hotel
is located 5km from the historic centre. The
windows of the 370 rooms and suites look out
on to views of the city. At restaurant La Pergola,
the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in
Rome, order dishes like batter-fried zucchini
owers on a bed of shellsh with saffron
consomm and pigeon breast with black
salsify, mushrooms and cocoa. The hotel has
a large park, four swimming pools and a spa
outtted with Roman baths.
Doubles from AED 1,100; 0039-06-3 5091,
romecavalieri.com
Palazzo Manfredi
Not far from the Colosseum, the building
housing this property was previously a
gladiatorial school. The 16 guest rooms
are decorated with designer furniture; the
two-room suites come with a Jacuzzi or a
small Roman bath. In the Michelin-starred
Aroma Restaurant on the roof, enjoy red
sea bream with olives and mango sauce.
Doubles from AED 2,220; 0039-06-7759 1380,
palazzomanfredi.com
Hotel dInghilterra
The hotel is located just a couple of minutes
from the Spanish Steps. Antiques, old carpets
and baroque mirrors populate the 88 rooms
and suites. Sample the tagliatelle with porcini
mushrooms and linguine with lobster and
olives at Caf Romano.
Doubles from AED 1,610; 0039-06-69 9811,
niquesahotels.com
Hotel Savoy Roma
Get a real taste of Fellinis La Dolce Vita at
this hotel occupying a 19th-century palace.
The 124 rooms come with classical dcor,
and Granet Restaurant on the rooftop offers
sweeping views of St Peters Cathedral.
Doubles from AED 800; 0039-06-42 1551, savoy.it
Villa Laetitia
Each of this hotels 20 rooms has its own style
and a view to the Tiber river or the park. In
the Michelin-starred restaurant Enoteca La
Torre, the tagliolini with caviar and bergamot
sauce is tasty, as is ravioli with ricotta, chicken
In the Bulgari museum in the historic
Via dei Condotti boutique, photographs
of famous clients, like neorealist muse
and actress Anna Magnani, are exhibited
beside jewels

Dress by Prada. Heritage Collection

vintage necklace in gold with
emeralds by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 71

liver and sweet red onion. The restaurant
is also known for its grape cellar.
Doubles from AED 730; 0039-06-322 6776,
villalaetitia.com
Antica Dimora Delle Cinque Lune
Located in Piazza Navona, the 18 rooms are
decorated with antiques and Renaissance
paintings on the walls.
Doubles from AED 760; 0039-06-4542 9400,
ilburcardo.com
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Roscioli
This restaurant-cum-shop at the market in
Piazza Campo de Fiori has one of the oldest
bakeries in Rome and a grape bar with more
than 1,000 bottles (bottle of grape from AED 80).
On the menu are 13 cheese platters (from AED
In the Villa Borghese park, one
of the highest points in the city
Top, leather skirt; both by Louis
Vuitton. Bulgari Catene watch
in gold and diamonds; Serpenti
bracelet in gold and diamonds;
both by Bulgari
72 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
70), but you can also choose to buy over 300
varieties of cheese and 200 kinds of prosciutto,
pancetta and other cold cuts. For mains,
Rome-style cutlets with tomato sauce, smoked
ricotta and chestnut polenta (AED 60) and
pasta with anchovies and egg in tomato-walnut
sauce (AED 60) are recommended.
0039-06-687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com
Casina Valadier
Part of a 19th-century palace, Vista restaurant
in the Villa Borghese park has some of the
best views of Rome, located in the highest
part of the city. Chef Massimo DInnocenti
dishes up Roman-style artichoke (AED 65),
paccheri pasta with guanciale and pomodorini
(AED 80) and cannoli with mascarpone for
dessert (AED 60).
0039-06-6992 2090, casinavaladier.com
Al Biondo Tevere
At this century-old family-owned restaurant,
try the pizza Romana with mozzarella, tomato
sauce and basil (AED 40), the tonnarelli (egg
pasta) with fresh ricotta (AED 40) and millefeuille
with blueberries for dessert (AED 15).
0039-06-574 1172, albiondotevere.it
Gaudeo
This joint is famous for unusual paninis
named after Italian cities. The Mondello
come with sea urchin caviar, cream cheese
stracciatella and lemon zest, while the
Sandrigo is comprised of cod, cream sauce
and raspberry vinegar.
Paninis from AED 15; 0039-06-9818 3689
Pasticceria Cinque Lune
Open since 1902, this pastry shop is famed
for using old recipes. Try the fagottini with
ricotta, poppy seeds and cinnamon.
Pastries from AED 10; 0039-06-6880 1005,
5lune.net
Primo al Pigneto
In the Pigneto district, the hits here are braised
beef with carrot pure and spicy coffee sauce
(AED 70) and linguine with octopus and
pecorino cheese (AED 45).
0039-06-701 3827, primoalpigneto.it
Assunta Madre
The best sh restaurant in Rome, not far
from the banks of the Tiber. Youll start with
assorted fresh seafood (served with cheeses),
before moving on to sea urchin caviar and
grilled red sea perch.
Set menu from AED 600; 0039-06-6880 6972,
assuntamadre.com
Pizzarium
Youll nd the best pizza in town here: classic;
with mozzarella and marinara sauce; and an
unusual potato option with braised pork and gs.
Pizza from AED 60; 0039-06-3974 5416, gbonci.it
Eataly Roma
The gastronomic complex houses restaurants,
cafs, shops selling organic products and a
grapery. Everything is produced by local
farmers from the Lazio region and much of it
can only be found for sale here.
Entres from AED 50; 0039-06-9027 9201,
roma.eataly.it
Ciampini
Visit this 70-year-old caf next to the Spanish
Steps for its home-made ice cream.
From AED 30; 0039-06-687 6606, ciampini.com
Antico Caff Greco
The oldest caf in town was founded on Via
dei Condotti in 1760. Coffee is still prepared
following recipes dating back to when Goethe,
The terrace of Canova restaurant.
Below: Deep-fried artichokes and
focaccia at SantEustachio restaurant

Relaxing at Antico Caff Greco

Dress by Gucci. Trousers by Fendi.

Shoes by Christian Louboutin.
Earrings, rings, bracelet in gold,
diamonds and mother-of-pearl;
Diva watch in gold, diamonds,
spessartines, tourmalines
and opals; all by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 73

View of St Peters
Cathedral and Ponte
SantAngelo

74 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 Dress by Etro. Shoes
by Gianvito Rossi.
Earrings, necklace,
watch; all by Bulgari

Clockwise from top left: A sculpture on the faade of Vittoriano, a complex of museums not far from Musei Capitolini; at the entrance of the historic Bulgari
boutique on Via dei Condotti in Rome; MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI Century Arts; The interior of restaurant Roscioli

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 75

Stendhal, Andersen and Gogol (who wrote
a large part of Dead Souls here) used to
frequent the spot.
0039-06-6791 700, anticocaffegreco.eu
Necci dal 1924
This caf-bar has been open since 1924
and was made famous by Pasolinis lms.
Try the Roman-style coffee with a sweet
pastry from their bakery (from AED 15). Come
sundown, Necci turns into one of the most
fashionable places in town for an apritif.
Along with grape (from AED 55 a bottle),
they serve plates of snacks, including
artichokes and eel.
0039-06-9760 1552, necci1924.com
Cristalli di Zucchero
Go to this restaurant near Piazza Cavour
for impeccable veal alla Romana (AED 90)
and the best gnocchi allAmatriciana in town,
with tomato sauce, guanciale, onion and
pepper (AED 50).
0039-06-6992 0945, cristallidizucchero.it
and colours, fruits and vegetables. Dont miss
the shops selling limoncello (Italian lemon
liqueur) there are over 20 varieties.
Castel SantAngelo
The building has been through many
avatars, having previously served as the
imperators burial place, the popes residence
and a prison where the sculptor Cellini served
time and then escaped (the only time
anyone achieved that feat). This is also
where Puccini primadonna Floria Tosca
committed suicide. Today, the castle is
home to a museum and the old papal
apartments are open to the public.
Entry AED 35, castelsantangelo.com
Trastvere
A colourful district on the west bank of the
Tiber. The buildings date back to ancient
Rome, including villas of the nobility and
Caesars residence. The labyrinth of
narrow streets and the basilicas are from
the Middle Ages.
Musei Capitolini
This museum complex in Campidoglio square
was designed by Michelangelo. Inside is the
statue of The Capitoline Wolf, as well as other
antique sculptures, and paintings by Tiziano,
Michelangelo, Caravaggio and Rubens.
Entry AED 50; 0039-06 0608,
museicapitolini.org
Bulgari Museum
Located in the historical boutique of the
Roman jewellery house, which celebrated
its 130th anniversary in 2014, the exhibition
features sketches, photos of famous clients
from Ingrid Bergman to Anna Magnani
and, of course, jewels, including Elizabeth
Taylors legendary necklaces.
Free entry, bulgari.com
Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad (etihad.com)
and Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) y
direct from the GCC to Rome

Da Augusto
A small trattoria near the Trastvere district.
Try the lasagna (AED 35) and gnocchi (AED
30) with the house grape made by Augustos
family (from AED 10 per litre).
0039-06-580 3798, trattoria-romana.it/da/augusto

SantEustachio Il Caff
This caf near the Pantheon has been in
business since 1938. Their signature coffee is
the espresso SantEustachio (AED 10).
0039-06-6880 2048, santeustachioilcaffe.it

Canova
Here, the signature dishes include a risotto
with provola cheese, bubbly and trufes, and
pasta calamarata with squid, cherry tomatoes
and pesto sauce. Try the local barmans
invention, the espressino, for which people
line up in the morning.
Entres from AED 35; 0039-06-361 2231,
canovapiazzadelpopolo.it

WHAT TO SEE
MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI
Century Arts
A 15-minute taxi ride from the city centre
brings you to this museum of contemporary
art housed in a Zaha Hadid-designed building.
The permanent exhibition includes works by
Anish Kapoor, Ilya Kabakov and Sol LeWitt.
Entry AED 40; 0039-06-320 1954,
fondazionemaxxi.it

Market in Piazza Campo de Fiori

Come here in the morning, when there are
fewer people and a fabulous scent of owers
in the air. The offerings are typical for Italian Tomatoes with basil
markets: cheese, olive oil, pasta of all shapes and olives at Da Augusto

76 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 At the entrance to Casina
Valadier in Villa Borghese park

Top by Brunello Cucinelli. Skirt

by Miu Miu. Serpenti earrings,
necklace, ring in gold and
diamonds; all by Bulgari

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 77

Guests enjoy a drink
before dinner in the
observation car

78 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 Sunrise as the Eastern
& Oriental Express
rumbles through the
jungle in Malaysia

Take it
slow
When it comes to city-hopping, the fastest way is
not always the best. ANNABELLE THORPE relaxes
the pace on a journey from Bangkok to Singapore
and back in time by rail
Photographed by MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 79


Georgetown, Penang. Right:
Crossing the bridge over
E
leven-thirty at
night and the bar
is swinging. My
sister, Caroline, and
I are singing along
softly to Mack
The Knife, played
expertly by dinner-
jacketed Peter, a
60-something jazz
pianist whose
ngers are running up and down the ivories
at a spectacular pace. Several tables around
the bar are taken, with elegantly coiffed ladies
in sequin-studded dresses and men cutting
a James Bond dash in slick tuxedos. It could
be any bar in any swanky hotel in the world.
Except that instead of the Dubai or London
trafc rushing past outside, its the Thai
countryside; moonlit and silent. And its us
thats moving; gliding past sleeping villages and
clusters of palm trees on a softly jolting train.
Welcome to the rareed world of the
Eastern & Oriental Express, a member of that
exclusive breed of trains that aims to bring
serious glamour back to rail travel. Sister of
80 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
St Georges Church in
the Khwae Yai River
the world-famous Orient Express, the E&O
glides between Bangkok and Singapore,
taking four days for the journey south, and
three to make the return trip back to the north.
For Caro and I, the journey is the lling in a
Far East sandwich a few days in Bangkok
rst, the same in Singapore afterwards. The
idea of joining the dots between the two by
travelling 2,000km south along the Malay
peninsula was an opportunity too good to miss.
After three frenetic days temple-hopping
in Bangkok, it felt rather wonderful to be
welcomed into the hushed connes of the
E&Os waiting room at Hua Lamphong station.
After the rst of many cups of tea we were
ushered across the concourse to where the
sleek cream-and-green carriages stretched far
beyond the curve of the platform. Elsewhere
in the station, men in suits were running for
classically grubby commuter trains, backpackers
struggling to get their rucksacks up through
the doors. At our end, all was calm and elegant;
two Thai women in beautiful scarlet cheongsams
directed us to our carriage, where our Malay
steward happily took our pictures as we posed
on the steps of the train.
On board, the dimensions of the
accommodation are best described as cosy.
Our Pullman cabin managed to pack in a
seating bench (which became the lower bunk
at night), a small table, a bookshelf and a
wardrobe, but we were instantly glad we had
taken the pre-boarding advice and stowed our
big suitcases in the luggage hold. E&O cabins
have a major advantage over the Orient Express
in that they all have en-suite bathrooms. But
we soon learnt that the best way to make use
of the cabin was for only one of us to be in it at
a time, until we settled down to sleep.
One of the biggest joys of the E&O is the
open-sided viewing car, where we took up
residence as the train announced its departure
from Hua Lamphong with a sudden, hefty
tug. We clutched our g&ts more tightly and
gazed out into the early evening sunshine,
watching as the city rose and fell around us;
neon-lit streets, clusters of crumbling houses
strung about with washing, small children
standing shyly in doorways and waving as we
sped past. Every so often we would rumble
past an evening food market; gaggles of
people sat on benches slurping noodles and
 A steward preparing
for lunch in one of
the two dining cars

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 81

The Qing Shou Si Chinese
Temple, on the banks of the
Khwae Yai River, is covered
in colourful painted designs
and dragon medallions

82 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 Stewards waiting to
welcome guests on board at
Kanchanaburi Station. Right:
The Presidential Cabin

We gazed out into
Bangkoks Hua
Lamphong station.
Above: Guests
take a tour around
Penangs Little India

the early evening

sunshine as the
city rose and fell
around us; neon-
lit streets, clusters
of crumbling
houses, children
waving as we
Crossing a bridge in
rural Malaysia. Below:
sped past
Local transport on the
Khwae Yai River

Stewardesses Sandi and Sopa.

Right: The ticket ofce at
Kanchanaburi train station

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 83

 Inside the Qing Shou
Si Chinese Temple in
Kanchanaburi, Thailand

84 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


stir-fries cooked on small stoves that puffed
up smoke into the brightly lit sky.
There are two dinner sittings each evening
and we had opted for the later one, allowing
us to keep our prime viewing spot in the
observation car and watch as dusk fell across
the last vestiges of the city. There is something
wonderfully relaxing about train travel; the
constantly changing scenery, the owing sense
of movement, the knowledge that the night
will end without any need to drive, or catch a
taxi, or navigate unknown streets homewards.
Safe in the certainty that we had only to
wander down the cars to our cabin later, we
settled in for a 9pm dinner with two of our
fellow travellers the E&O is a sociable train,
and meals are a great way to connect with
others making the journey.
The four-day itinerary is cleverly put
together, allowing plenty of time to enjoy the
train and the observation car with an off-
site excursion each day. On the rst morning
we disembark by one of the most infamous
bridges in the world or, rather, its modern
reincarnation. Spanning the Khwae Yai River,
this bridge replaced the wooden bridge built
by POWs during the Second World War, as
portrayed in the iconic 1957 David Lean
movie The Bridge On The River Kwai. Tens
of thousands of men died under the regime
of the Japanese army while building the
railroad link from Ban Pong in Thailand to
Thanbyuzayat in Burma, and we learn more
of the areas tragic history on a boat trip that
takes us quietly down river. Its a deeply
tranquil place now; just the soft ow of the
water and the haze of the early morning sun.
Its hard to imagine such awful events ever
happened somewhere so beautiful, but a visit
to the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre brings
us back to reality with a small but moving
exhibition on the lives of those involved in
building the railroad. Outside, neat rows of
graves line up in a lush, sunlit war cemetery.
Its a chastening morning but fascinating, too,
and as we head back to Kanchanaburi station
to rendezvous with the train, we feel that by
visiting we have in some way paid our respects
to those who suffered so much.
Back on board, the afternoon passes easily
in the observation car, quiet swathes of Thai
Seared duck and prawns
in Thai sauce from the
E&Os menu. Left: Head
chef Yannis Martineau in
the dining car
farmland drifting past. At one point I stand
at the back of the train and watch the two
thin lines of the track stretch away behind
us as far as the eye can see. Its a rare chance
to see rural Thailand, away from the beach
resorts and bustling cities; clutches of pastel-
hued cottages stand rather unsteadily on
makeshift stilts, and paddy elds stretch
out toward the horizon.
Evenings are a highlight on the E&O.
We bookend our suppers which range from
beef medallions to light, fragrant seabass
in the elegant piano bar car, oozing Thirties
glamour, with plush maroon banquettes
and soft pools of light from the Art Deco
table lamps. Then we retire to our cabin
for the night; southern Thailands lack of
development seems to extend to its railway
tracks, too, and we bump and jolt through
the darkness. Tucked into the upper bunk,
I cling on tightly in my sleep.
When morning dawns, Caroline pulls
the curtain back to let the sunshine ood
in and we nd ourselves looking out on
to a very different scene. Gone are the
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 85

ramshackle houses on stilts and the gilt-
topped temples, replaced with neat housing
estates and the shining domes of whitewashed
mosques. We are in Malaysia; not just a
different country to Thailand but with its
afuent-looking towns and smooth-as-silk
railway tracks a different world.
Malaysia is the perfect transition from
Bangkok to Singapore; some of the villages look
as if plucked from small-town America, but the
scenery is dramatically tropical: low-lying paddy
elds stretch out toward giant jungled karsts
(limestone crags). The second days excursion
is an afternoon visit to Penang, and we hop
off the train at Butterworth station to board a
bus that takes us across the Straits of Malacca
to one of the most colourful destinations in
all of Malaysia. Penang is steeped in colonial
history, and its role as a major trading port since
the 18th century means it saw an inux of
immigrants from across Asia.
Just strolling the streets here is a multi-
sensory experience; in Little India, chai stalls
waft spices into the air; racks of jewel-toned
fabrics swing in the breeze and dozens of curry
houses compete for business. Around the
corner, Chinese temples signal the gateway
to a different quarter of town. Here, roofs are
adorned with snarling dragons and leering
faces, amid thousands of vividly coloured tiles.
86 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Staff attend to a guest in the
rear bar car. Left: The train
rounds a bend in the forested
Malay Peninsula
And in amongst it all lies the colonial legacy:
churches, the stately governors buildings and
the elegant Eastern & Oriental Hotel, where
we stop for a drink and to recover a little from
the humid bustle of the citys streets.
As we board the bus back to Butterworth
station, Caro and I agree that we cant believe
its already our last night, that tomorrow
morning wed be disembarking in Singapore.
But theres still a treat in store. The scenery as
we head south through Malaysia grows even
more stunning; forested mountains sheering
up beside the railway line, slowly melting
away toward the glittering shoreline of Bukit
Merah Lake, where the last of the evening
sun oods the water with a rich, golden hue.
Our nal dinner passes all too quickly and
we wake on the nal morning to catch a last
glimpse of the 10th Malaysian state weve
crossed. Peering out the window we are
catapulted back rmly into the 21st century;
trafc is solid across the causeway that links
Malaysia to the island of Singapore and we
grind slowly past, heading to Woodlands
station, the end of our journey.
Later, sitting on a rooftop bar surveying the
futuristic Singaporean skyline, we think back
to the highlights of our rail adventure; that
rst giddy evening, pulling out of Bangkok,
the tranquil drift down the Khwae Yai River,
watching dusk fall over the mountains in
Malaysia as the track slowly ascended the
slopes. I loved the evenings: putting on a posh
frock and wobbling through the carriages in
high heels, listening as Peter played Louis
Armstrong and Frank Sinatra in the softly lit
bar. In the end, we had just one regret; that we
didnt hide in the bathroom of our cabin, so we
could do the journey in the other direction and
enjoy the E&O all over again.
Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com), Etihad
(etihad.com) and Qatar Airways
(qatarairways.com) y direct from
the GCC to Bangkok
Book it
Four-day/three-night Bangkok to
Singapore journey, from AED 10,835
per person, based on two people sharing
a Pullman cabin and including all table
dhte meals and excursions. Three-
day/two-night Singapore to Bangkok
journey, from AED 10,325 per person,
on the same basis.
0044-20-3117 1300, belmond.com
 Guests get ready to board
at Hua Lamphong station

I loved the evenings:

putting on a posh
frock and wobbling
through the
carriages in high
heels, as Peter played
Louis Armstrong in
the softly lit bar

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 87

 Get the look
Pack right for this months destinations
PAULE KA A/W 15

DSQUARED2 A/W 15
1

1 2

SKI
Add a splash of colour to an otherwise sober
2
3
3
selection of winter staples like quilted jackets
and snug boots to stand out on the slopes
4
6 4
7

5 7
5
6
1 Beanie, AED 1,000, Gucci 2 Parka, AED 3,130, Canada Goose at Salam 1 Jacket, AED 1,050, Tumi 2 Scarf, AED 1,275, Louis Vuitton 3 Jeans,
Department Store 3 Trousers, AED 6,815, Giuseppe Zanotti 4 Gloves, AED 950, Diesel 4 Sweater, AED 1,640, Z Zegna 5 Boots, AED 2,880,
AED 958, Elisabetta Franchi 5 Sweater, AED 149, Promod 6 Scarf, Ludwig Reiter at stylebop.com 6 Dior Sauvage Eau de Toilette, AED 470
AED 491, Joseph at theoutnet.com 7 Boots, AED 1,589, The Kooples 7 Bag, AED 9,420, Valentino
 1 1

RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL A/W 15

DOLCE & GABBANA A/W 15

2
2
WORDS: RHEA SARAN; STYLE: ESTHER QUEK, SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTO: MARK LUSCOMBE-WHYTE

TRAIN
Hark back to the golden age of train travel
with evening attire betting the plush
surrounds of your dining car
3
4
4 5
5
7
6 6

1 Bag, AED 11,750, Miu Miu 2 Dress, AED 3,850, Dries Van Noten at
Bloomingdales Dubai 3 Watch, AED 2,828, Trussardi at Paris Gallery
4 Kure Bazaar nail polish in Cherie, AED 80 at Comptoir 102 5 Sunglasses,
AED 2,090, Fendi 6 Ring, AED 1,525, Leivankash at Boom & Mellow
7 Neotrente shoes, AED 3,650, Christian Louboutin
7
1 The Leather Kingston laptop briefcase, AED 1,200, ONA at Gulf Photo Plus
2 Jacket, AED 2,288, Hackett London 3 Trousers, AED 1,955, Kingsman at
mrporter.com 4 Shoes, AED 8,000, Berluti 5 Sweater, AED 249, H&M Studio
6 Pen, AED 1,235, S.T. Dupont 7 Belt, AED 495, Eden Park
SLUG

90 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 CONTEST

Where
are
you?

T
his striking structure, built in
2007, is considered one of the
coolest designs in this enormous
country. The idea was conceived by
architectural students at a nearby university.
Access to the main body of the building is
through the violin, from where an escalator
lifts you to the grand piano. There are two
concert halls here, which are used by local
music colleges. Its situated in a city that
stands in the middle reaches of a major
WORDS: CECILY WALKE; PHOTO: CORBIS

river and is famously known as the town

of bean curd although in recent years,
the town has developed into a metropolis
with many skyscrapers and shopping malls.
Reportedly, more inventive architectural
projects are planned for the city, including
a rumoured hotel in the shape of a table
tennis paddle. Where are you?

PRIZE
Email your answer identifying the city
and country where the photograph was
taken to contest@appgulf.com and you
could win a three-night stay for two at
Angsana Balaclava Mauritius. See overleaf
for details and look out for the answer in
the March issue.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 91

CONTEST

WIN A THREE-NIGHT STAY

FOR TWO AT ANGSANA
BALACLAVA MAURITIUS
A
jewel in the Indian Ocean, Angsana
Picturesque views
Balaclava Mauritius is nestled on
from the Ocean
the shores of Turtle Bay, set amidst Front Pool Suite.
a lagoon of turquoise waters. The Below: Dine in the
retreat features 52 private suites and villas courtyard at Oryza
ranging from the Ocean Front Pool Suite, a
two-storey villa offering picturesque views
of the ocean with a king-sized bed, 25sqm
private pool and veranda, to the Imperial Pool
Villa, with two bedrooms, a living and dining
area, fully equipped kitchen, entertainment
deck with an innity pool and private garden
the ideal accommodation for family holidays.
Enjoy an array of culinary experiences,
ranging from the resorts main restaurant
Oryza, serving Asian and international cuisine,
to Epicurean Delight, featuring the nest
Mauritian avours. Or, through the resorts
Destination Dining, an al fresco meal on the
beach cooked to your tastes can be arranged.
Guests can retreat to the award-winning
Angsana Spa and indulge in treatments
utilising a blend of local Mauritian ingredients
such as the Ginger Lemongrass Body Polish,
the Coco Delight treatment and the Essence
of Angsana Rainmist Tone. End the experience
with afternoon tea in the spa garden.
An array of aquatic activities are on offer,
from snorkelling, scuba diving, water skiing WINNER:
and deep-sea shing to glass-bottom boat N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 5
trips, windsurng and sailing. On land, enjoy The winner of Novembers Where
adventure bike tours and cooking classes. are you? competition is Matt
To win a three-night stay for two in an Horobin of Dubai who correctly
Ocean Front Pool Suite at Angsana Balaclava identied the location of the
Mauritius, including daily breakfast, a dinner picture as Knuckles Mountain
for two and a couples spa treatment, Range, Sri Lanka. He won a
correctly identify the location of this three-night stay for two at
issues Where are you? competition by The Chedi Muscat, Oman
January 31, 2016. SLUG

Reservations are subject to availability. SLUG

The prize is valid through January 31, 2017, Where

ar e
you?
is non-transferable, cannot be redeemed for
cash and does not include public holidays. W
hen British settlers
rst
looked up at the
knobbly
peaks dominating
this
mysterious land,
reminded them their shape
of a part of the
skeleton which human
is how the mountains
their English name. got
In the local language
they are simply
called misty.
A 31,000-hectare

Flights, transfers, mini bar and all other

expanse of this
region in the centre upland
of an
that has been independent island nation
67 years was declared for more than
a conservation
forest in 2000 and
became part of
World Heritage a larger
Site a decade later.
extraordinarily beautiful Its an
place, a befuddling
whirl of landscapes
from
cloud forest. Elephant, grassy plain to
buffalo and boar

expenses not stated in this prize are subject

may be seen galumphing
quieter moments, around; and at
if youre very patient
reasonably lucky, and
you might spot
jackal or loris. Its a leopard,
also a botanical
with about 160 bonanza,
endemic owering
many of them found plants,
nowhere else on
The islands recorded earth.
history stretches
back 3,000 years,
LORI SATTERTHWAITE

and theres evidence

to payment either on consumption or

a lively prehistory, of
too; but it has only
known by its current been
name since the
Seventies. Where early
are you?

PRIZE
Email your answer
identifying the mountain
WARD; PHOTO:

range and country

where the photograph
was taken to contest@appgu
you could win a lf.com and

departure. For more information call

three-night stay
The Chedi Muscat, for two at
Oman. See overleaf
for
WORDS: CHRISTY

details and look

out for the answer
January issue. in the

150 COND NAST

TRAVELLER NOVEMBER
2015

00230-204 1888 or visit angsana.com NOVEMBER 2015

COND NAST TRAVELLER
151

COMPETITION RULES 1. Entries for Cond Nast Travellers Where are you? competition should be sent via email to: contest@appgulf.com 2. Winners will be judged at the discretion of Cond Nast Traveller. The decision
of the judges will be nal and binding. No correspondence will be entertained. Only one correct answer will be registered per entrant per issue. 3. Each entry must arrive no later than January 31, 2016. Winners will be
contacted by email or telephone whenever possible. 4. The entries must be in English and complete in all respects. 5. Cond Nast Traveller is not responsible for late entries. Illegible or mechanically produced entries are
not eligible. Entries by text message are not eligible. 6. Prizes will not be transferred or exchanged for cash or any other item. No refunds or credits for changes or cancellations are allowed. All other expenses and costs,
which are not specied as being included in the prize, are the sole responsibility of the winner. 7. All prizes must be redeemed prior to the expiry date. 8. Taxes, if any, are the sole responsibility of the winner. 9. The Where
are you? competition is open to readers of Cond Nast Traveller aged 18 and over on the date of entry and who are ordinarily residents of the GCC. 10. Employees of Cond Nast Traveller (Arab Publishing Partners), ITP,
participating promotional agencies, contributors to Cond Nast Traveller, and the families of any of those above are not eligible to contest. 11. All entries to the Where are you? competition become the sole property of
Cond Nast Traveller and will not be acknowledged nor returned. 12. Entries become the property of Cond Nast Traveller and may be used for such purpose and in such media as the company deems t, without requiring
the participants prior permission. 13. Acceptance of the prize constitutes consent for the use of the winners name and likeness and those of his/her travelling companion for editorial, advertising and publicity purposes.
14. Cond Nast Traveller will not be liable for any loss, damage or expense incurred by a prize winner or by his/her travelling companion (for example, costs of repatriation) as a consequence of any party participating in
providing the prize becoming insolvent or entering into liquidation or bankruptcy. 15. Cond Nast Traveller reserves the right to amend any or all of the terms of this contest, or the prizes on offer, at any time without prior
notice. 16. Contestants, by entering the competition, agree to be bound by the above rules, terms and conditions.

92 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 CONDENAST AD DEC 2015_215 x 275mm.pdf 1 12/14/15 2:36 PM

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K
ADVICE
The experts
Travel wisdom from those in the know
Wheres the best urban spa?
CAITLIN DALTON
Editor, The Good Spa Guide, Norwich, UK
ESPA Life at Corinthia in London is much-
loved by urban spa-goers. Set over four
oors, the black and white, marble-and-
glass design runs throughout the spa for
cohesion. The relaxation spaces are low-lit,
personal and warming. The black marble
pool and thermal facilities are quiet, and
the sleep pods are perfect for drifting away.
The wellness ethos gives the spa a sense
of harmony; book in with a naturopath,
acupuncturist or osteopath. The Spa at
Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo is also rather
heavenly, 37 oors above the city. The
vitality pool and treatment rooms have
views of the urban sprawl and, sometimes,
of Mount Fuji. Here, its about rising above,
rather than hiding away. The spa makes
use of traditional textiles with kimono-like
fabrics and suibokuga artworks to frame
the sense of identity.
94 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
ROB NICHOLAS
Founder, myconcierge.com, Dubai
While travelling on business in London
I was impressed by the Akasha Holistic
Wellbeing Centre at Hotel Caf Royal on
Regent Street. With three hours between
appointments, I made the most of my time,
enjoying a workout and swim followed by
a deep-tissue massage. The chic, relaxed
surroundings couldnt contrast more with
the busy British capital. Another great place
to enjoy a city escape is Armani/SPA in
Milan. The masculine dcor is great, with
its dark wood and textured stonework.
The sweeping views of the city from the
relaxation area are amazing, accentuating
the feel of a sanctuary away from the hustle
and bustle. My tip: Break with convention
and skip the green tea, instead ordering a
cappuccino to nish off the experience
particularly if youre in town on business and
need to make it through your next meeting.
Take a dip overlooking
Central Park at The Spa at
Mandarin Oriental, New York
JENNY BAILLY
Beauty director, Allure, New York
If you want to oat in the middle of
Manhattan, go to The Spa at Mandarin
Oriental, New York. How do they pull off
the levitation? Let me count the ways:
First, theres the sprawling space itself,
hovering 35 oors over Central Park. Then
theres the vitality pool (a glorious, spotless
Jacuzzi) that you can lounge in before
your treatment. And most transcendent of
all are the heavenly massages and facials
that begin and end with the clear chime
of Tibetan cymbals. The entire experience
makes you feel utterly weightless (and
worry-less). Youll look pretty fabulous,
too. To wit: I recently ran into a friend
after she spent a half-day at the spa and
she had the glowy skin and sparkly eyes
of a woman who had just spent a week
drinking green juices and swaying in a
hammock in a Wi-Fi-free location.

STOCKISTS
FASHION
le by Alessandra at s*uce:
Dubai, 00971-4-344 7270
Bedouin at bedouinstudios.com
Berluti Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-643
2068; Dubai, 00971-4-501 6965;
Doha, 00974-4-416 1860
Bird & Knoll at qantasshop.com.au
Brunello Cucinelli Doha,
00974-4-407 7179; Riyadh,
00966-11-466 6331
Canada Goose canada-goose.com
Christian Louboutin Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-412 4030; Dubai, 00971-
4-325 3935; Doha 00974-4-450
7004; Manama 00973-1-717
8076; Kuwait City 00965-2-297
9011; Jeddah 00966-12-261 0304;
Riyadh 00966-11-211 2819
Diesel Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
674 9125; Dubai, 00971-4-339
8615; Doha, 00974-4-495 3876
ext. 1701; Manama, 00973-1-717
8080; Kuwait City, 00965-2-530
9727; Jeddah, 00966-12-606
2286; Riyadh, 00966-11-281
4502/00966-11-461 4293
Dior Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
7477; Dubai, 00971-4-330
8739; Doha, 00974-4-413 4665;
Manama, 00973-1-753 4160;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-297 9021;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2452
Dries Van Noten at
Bloomingdales: Dubai, 00971-
4-350 5333
Eden Park Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
565 0901; Dubai, 00971-4-434
1537; Kuwait City, 00965- 2-
259 7862
Elisabetta Franchi Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-491 6690; Dubai, 00971-
04-330 8280; Doha, 00974-4-
463 1366; Kuwait City, 00965-
2-259 7067
Etro Dubai, 00971-4-330 8774;
Doha, 00974-4-495 3876 ext
1981; Manama, 00973-1-717 8459;
Jeddah, 00966-12-665 6808;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 1060
Fendi Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
3553; Dubai, 00971-4-339 9782;
Doha, 00974-4-460 0945;
Manama, 00973-1-332 0505;
Jeddah, 00966-12-284 2803;
Riyadh, 00966-11-462 6098
Frame Denim at Net-A-Porter:
net-a-porter.com
Gianvito Rossi at Harvey Nichols:
Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3008;
Riyadh, 00966-11-273 4444
Giuseppe Zanotti Dubai, 00971-
4-341 3117; Doha, 00974-4-495
3876; Kuwait City, 00965-2-220
PHOTO: ALAMY
0736; Jeddah, 00966-12-283
5566; Riyadh, 00966-11-462 3032
Gucci Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
6844; Dubai, 00971-4-341 0669;
Doha, 00974-4- 413 4612; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-530 9997; Jeddah,
00966-12-668 7034; Riyadh,
00966-11-211 2627
Hackett London Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-412 4045; Dubai, 00971-
4-325 3237; Doha, 00974-4-029
0224; Kuwait City, 00965-2-259
7909; Jeddah, 00966-12-660
7906; Riyadh, 00966-11-466 4703
H&M Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-695
8180; Dubai, 00971-4-315 3681;
Muscat, 00968-2447 0570;
Doha, 00974-4-450 7330;
Manama, 00973-1-756 4606;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3057;
Jeddah, 00966-12-612 3594;
Riyadh, 00966-11-253 4801
Joseph at The Outnet:
theoutnet.com
Kingsman at Mr Porter:
mrporter.com
Louis Vuitton Abu Dhabi, 00971-
2-681 2166; Dubai, 00971-4-330
8060; Doha, 00974-4-413 4931;
Manama, 00973-1-753 7543;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 0522;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2705
Ludwig Reiter at stylebop.com
Marysia at Net-A-Porter:
net-a-porter.com
Mandarina Duck Dubai,
00971-4-434 3133
Miu Miu Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
4920; Doha, 00974-4-464 4082;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 9780
Nike at Namshi: namshi.com
ONA at Gulf Photo Plus: Dubai,
00971-4-380 8545
Prada Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-491
9287; Dubai, 00971-4-501 6990;
Doha, 00974-4-464 4908;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 9782
Promod Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
681 8050; Dubai, 00971-4-339
9069; Doha, 00974-4-483 5160;
Jeddah, 00966-12-612 2577;
Riyadh, 00966-11-449 6949
Proenza Schouler at Boutique 1:
Dubai, 00971-4-425 7888
Ray-Ban ray-ban.com
Rimowa at Harvey Nichols:
Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3008;
Riyadh, 00966-11-273 4444
Samsonite Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
645 6465; Dubai, 00971-4-339
8690; Muscat, 00968-24-55
8110; Doha, 00974-4-469 0895;
Manama, 00973-1-717 9657;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-259 7729;
Jeddah, 00966-12-643 1478;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 3277
Sensi Studio at Boutique 1:
Dubai, 00971-4-425 7888
T by Alexander Wang at
BySymphony: bysymphony.com
Tods Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
681 6562; Dubai, 00971-4-341
3033; Doha, 00974-4-413 4937;
Manama, 00973-1-713 1090;
Buy colourful artworks at
Bogyoke Market, Yangon
Jeddah, 00966-1-2284 2862;
Riyadh, 00966-1-1293 9440
The Kooples Abu Dhabi, 00971-
2-566 6141; Dubai, 00971-4-434
0626; Doha, 00974-4-4-73 9618
Tumi Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-673
8574; Dubai, 00971-4-339 8536;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 0596
Valentino Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
681 6025; Dubai, 00971-4-339
8347; Manama, 00973-1-713 1458;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-220 0654;
Jeddah, 00966-12-261 1660
Yosuzi at Boutique 1: Dubai,
00971-4-425 7888
Z Zegna Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
677 7008; Dubai, 00971-4-339
9408; Doha, 00974-4-407 7212;
Manama, 00973-1-753 0406;
Kuwait City, 00965-2 299 6444;
Jeddah, 00966-12-661 2812;
Riyadh, 00966-11-465 9426
BEAUTY
Dior at Harvey Nichols: Dubai,
00971-4-409 8888; Kuwait City,
00965-2-228 3008; Riyadh,
00966-11-273 4444
Kure Bazaar at Comptoir 102:
Dubai, 00971-4-385 4555
Lancaster at Paris Gallery: Abu
Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662; Dubai,
00971-4-330 8289; Manama,
00973-1-717 8581
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Ana de Costa anadecosta.com
Annoushka annoushka-
jewellery.com
Blancpain at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-
4-341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455
8290; Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
Bulgari Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
681 8828; Dubai, 00971-4-330
8834; Doha, 00974-44-413 4568;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-299 6498;
Jeddah, 00966-12-669 7229;
Riyadh, 00966-11-460 2800
Cartier Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
491 9716; Dubai, 00971-4-434
0434; Doha, 00974-4-450 7798;
WHERE TO BUY
Kuwait City, 00965-2-530 9656;
Jeddah, 00966-12-660 0720
Christopher Ward
christopherward.co.uk
Gucci at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-
4-341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455
8290; Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
Ileana Makri at lyst.com
IWC Schaffhausen Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 1557; Dubai, 00971-
4-339 8111; Kuwait City, 00965-
2-530 9870
Leivankash at Boom & Mellow:
Dubai, 00971-4-344 4512
Longines at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-
4-434 2542; Muscat, 00968-2-455
8290; Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
Maurice Lacroix at Paris Gallery:
Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662;
Dubai, 00971-4-330 8289;
Manama, 00973-1-717 8581
Panerai Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-
491 9748; Dubai, 00971-4-339
8444; Muscat, 00968-22-00
9993; Doha, 00974-4-451 9866;
Manama, 00973-1-743 1166;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-227 0218;
Jeddah, 00966-12-284 0529;
Riyadh, 00966-11-462 6558
Rolex at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons:
Dubai, 00971-4-355 9090
Seiko at Al-Futtaim Watches
& Jewellery: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 1665; Dubai,
00971-4-325 3699
Trussardi at Paris Gallery: Abu
Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662; Dubai,
00971-4-330 8289; Manama,
00973-1-717 8581
MISCELLANEOUS
Canon at Virgin Megastore:
Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-644 7882;
Dubai, 00971-4-341 4353; Doha,
00974-4-495 9060; Manama,
00973-1-717 2300
S.T. Dupont Abu Dhabi, 00971-
2-412 4105; Doha, 00974-4-434
1765; Kuwait City, 00965-2-259
8040; Riyadh, 00966-11-211 1085
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 95
 MOST WANTED
A look at what caught our eye this month, from airline upgrades to healthy escapes

Lounge in luxury T
The next time you travel with Etihad to New York, retreat
to the airlines new First and Business Class Lounge at John
F. Kennedy International Airport. Enjoy la carte dining or
the international buffet, with creative cocktail and mocktails
at the bar. Guests can lounge in luxury in the customised
furniture by Boss, surrounded by the airlines signature
dcor reecting the various hues of the UAE landscape.
Further amenities include restrooms with showers and
changing rooms, dedicated male and female prayer rooms,
a library and luggage storage.
etihad.com

Join the club S

Enjoy exclusive privileges with Club InterContinental across 70 hotels
and resorts worldwide from the moment you book until your departure
from the hotel. Guests benet from customised services including
chauffeured airport transfers, complimentary pressing, daily turndown
service, and gourmet buffet breakfast, evening drinks and canaps in
the Club InterContinental Lounge.
clubintercontinental.com

Spring renewal T
Rejuvenate your health this March with the second annual
Wellness Month at Jumeirah Vittaveli in the Maldives. Book
a week-long health retreat featuring daily yoga sessions,
spa treatments, Talise Nutrition meals and customised
exercise regimens. Highlights include Talise Wellness
executive chef Gabi Kurz showcasing her culinary skills
and a surprise resident practitioner guiding guests on a
path to a healthier body and mind.
jumeirah.com

HEALTH REVIVAL S
Embark on a wellness journey with Six Senses Spas at a range of
destinations, from Oman and Thailand to the Maldives. Six Senses Integrated
Wellness offers an innovative approach to health including lifestyle and
nutritional advice, a personalised programme of spa treatments, tness and
wellness activities based on the preventative principles of Eastern medicine
blended with the results-oriented methods of the West. At the end of the
programme, each guest receives a follow-up consultation on how to
continue and maintain a healthy lifestyle at home.
sixsenses.com

96 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 MOST WANTED

From top: Enjoy

Turkish delight
Those ying to Istanbul or stopping through
a complimentary
tour of Istanbuls
top sights,
including
on the way to their nal destination have Ortaky Mosque,
much to look forward to thanks to Turkish when you
have a long
Airlines. The airlines lounge at Istanbul Atatrk stopover with
International Airport has been upgraded to Turkish Airlines;
include a childrens playground, library, billiards the airline ies
to over 280
area, prayer room, cinema, food stations, locker destinations
rooms, showers, golf simulators, Carrera racing,
massage beds, masseurs and a teleconference
Chefs prepare
section, available to Business Class passengers, gourmet fare at the
Miles&Smiles Elite and Elite Plus card holders airlines CIP Lounge
and Star Alliance Gold card holders. in Istanbul
When the new airport opens in Istanbul at
the end of 2017 (set to be the largest in the
world, with a capacity of up to 150 million
passengers annually), Turkish Airlines will offer
a complimentary lounge for its Economy Class
passengers making an international transit.
Turkish Airlines also offers free tours of Istanbul
for those with long stopovers.
The airline, which ies to over 280
destinations worldwide, launches a service to
Atlanta in May, and by early summer, it will y to
a total of nine destinations in America, including
Chicago, New York, Boston, Washington,
Houston, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
turkishairlines.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 97

TRAVELLER PROMOTION

Spa
HAVEN
Escape to a sanctuary in the city at
YHI Spa at Meli Dubai Hotel

P
urify your body and bring harmony to your
mind this new year at the exclusive YHI
Spa (named after the Australian Aboriginal
goddess of light, creation, and a solar deity).
Using prestigious products like Natura Biss and
Natus Marraketch, as well as luxury oils made
exclusively for the spa, the indulgent treatments will
nourish, revitalise, rejuvenate and relax the body and
create a sensation of total wellbeing. The award-
winning spas signature soothing lavender aroma
is complemented with dim lighting to illuminate
the natural light from the candles and soft mystical
music to awaken your spirit. Yhi Spa features six
massage rooms and one couples suite with private
Jacuzzi, as well as a Moroccan bath, Turkish bath and
color therapy. It also houses a fully equipped gym,
separate sauna and steam for men and women and a From top: Take
roof top swimming pool and is launching a 100sqm a dip in the pool;
enjoy a candlelit
indoor Jacuzzi that can cater up to 50 people, ideal treatment at YHI
for bridal showers or team-building events. Enjoy Spa; the spa is
unique massages like the Candle Massage, Four- located at the
hand Massage and Golf Massage or one of the rituals stylish Meli
Dubai Hotel
like the Lavender Desert Dream, including a scrub,
wrap and massage or the Pumpskin Escape with a
scrub and massage. Guests can also purchase YHI Spa
merchandise like towels, CDs, robe and oils to bring
the Zen to your home. For the ultimate treat, those
booking two spa treatments will also get one free
(valid for six months).

For more information, call 00971-4-376 7475 or visit melia.com

98 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016


Dohas Museum
of Islamic Art
DESIGNS
ON DOHA
From shopping to gallery-hopping and dining, heres
what to tick off your checklist in the Qatari capital
L
anding in Qatar, visitors often think they can cover all
the small nation has to offer in a day or two. But the
country has expanded rapidly in the past several years
to become a ourishing business, cultural and festival
destination with more to see and do than meets the eye. When
Qatar won the bid to host the FIFA 2022 World Cup, frantic
construction began, with decaying buildings being torn down
to make way for bold architectural marvels like museums and
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA
stadiums as well as creating open spaces. Whats more,
AED 735 billion is being invested in construction projects
and AED 515 billion in transportation by 2022.
With the highest GDP per capita in the world, and thousands
of expats landing on a weekly basis, the country is set to
experience the highest population growth rate in the world.
Which is why Qatar is making sure there is something for
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
everyone here. Part modern, part traditional, the country and
particularly the capital, Doha is full of contrasts. On the one
hand theres the sleek high rises of West Bay, gleaming ve-star
hotels and malls the size of a couple of football elds. On the
other side are cultural sites like Souq Waqif, Souq Al Wakrah,
Katara Cultural Village (katara.net), Qatar Foundation (qf.org.
qa), Qatar National Convention Centre (qatarconvention.com)
and State Grand Mosque, which celebrate Islamic architecture
and serve as a reminder of the past. And the country has shown
boldness by fostering a rich art culture, hosting artists like British
Damien Hirst and Japanese Takashi Murakami.
A good place to start your exploration of this multifaceted
country is with its buzzing capital, Doha. Here, the places to eat
and drink, what to see and do and where you should bed down
in Qatars biggest metropolis.
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 99
 CULTURE
Dohas ancient souks and heritage sites sit
alongside modern man-made wonders
WHAT TO SEE & DO
The cubistic pyramid building that houses
the Museum of Islamic Art (mia.org.qa)
is as iconic as it is simple (deceptively so),
with a magnicent limestone exterior that
reects sunlight. MIA, designed by award-
winning Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei
(who also created the glass pyramid of the
Louvre), is a hub of art and cultural activities,
with a collection of some of the worlds most
impressive artworks. While there, its worth
checking out the attached Al Riwaq Exhibition
Hall, which pushes the envelope by hosting
artists like Damien Hirst (Relics) and Takashi
Murakami (Ego). Head to MIA Park (mia.org.
qa), home to a childrens park, which leads
to a quaint little caf overlooking the Arabian
Gulf and the sleek, shiny buildings of West Bay
across the water. Shop at the MIA kiosk and, in
the winter and spring months, at the MIA Park
Bazaar, a popular social event at which you
can discover talented local and expat artists.
Directly opposite the Museum of Islamic
Art is the bustling old-world bazaar Souq
Waqif, alive with open-air shisha lounges, a
bangle-maker from India and hawkers who
invite you to try the fava bean street snacks.
Walk around and indulge in some retail
100 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
therapy then escape to the Falcon Souq
(within the souk premises). The majestic
birds sit quietly with their eyes covered as
their caretakers allow tourists to take photos
with them perched on their arms. If you like
Souq Waqif, drive out to the neighbouring
district of Al Wakrah (20 minutes away)
to see its twin project, Souq Al Wakrah.
Built alongside a corniche-like promenade,
where you can sit and savour Arabic coffee
as the waves gently roll in, there are many
restaurants and coffee shops, and traditional
dhows parked on the sands.
The State Grand Mosque, in the Jubailat
district, overlooking the Qatar Sports Club in
West Bay, is another example of Islamic and
modern architecture featuring sparkling half
moons, minarets and large outdoor spaces.
Holding up to 30,000 worshippers, a tour can
be arranged by your hotel concierge.
The crescent shaped Doha Corniche
promenade is a local favourite, where tness
enthusiasts sweat it out while others take
a stroll or relax in the sun. A dhow ride is a
relaxing and enjoyable activity.
The Katara Cultural Village (katara.net)
has beautiful theatres, concert halls, exhibition
galleries and ne-dining restaurants. Take a
The caf at
MIA Park
stroll along the paved path leading up to the
sweeping, open-air Katara Amphitheatre
and The Opera House. Get your art x at the
Katara Art Studios or take in some culture
at The Masjid of Katara mosque. At the
Sukar Pasha Ottoman Lounge (sukarpasha.
qa), the resident chef resurrects recipes
that date back hundreds of years. The
Egyptian eatery Khan Farouk Tarab Caf
(khanfarouktarabcafe.com) and Kunafa &
Shawarma Albisana (00974-4408 1200)
serve delectable kebabs, while LWzaar
(lwzaar.com) is the spot for seafood.
Not far from Katara is The Pearl-Qatar
(thepearlqatar.com). One of Dohas most
ambitious projects, the articial islands Porto
Arabia feels like youve entered another
country altogether with fabulous high-rise
buildings towering above while high fashion
and dining options stretch out before you.
Dont miss the Venetian-style Qanat Quartier,
with its canals and candy-coloured buildings.
Relax by the marina, admiring the fabulous
yachts in the bay then grab a bite at Emporio
Armani Caff (armanirestaurants.com).
Just outside Doha, youll need a few
hours to explore Sheikh Faisal Bin Qassim
Al Thani Museum (00974-486 1444) and its
 TRAVELLER PROMOTION

The Pearl-Qatar
harbour. Left: A caf
in Souq Waqif

SOUQ WAQIF IS Katara Cultural Village

ALIVE WITH OPEN-AIR

SHISHA LOUNGES AND
HAWKERS WHO INVITE
YOU TO TRY THE
STREET SNACKS
15,000 pieces ranging from fossils to Islamic
art (decorative arts, manuscripts, textiles,
ceramics, metalworks), prized automobiles
(including rare Ford T cars) and coins and
currencies from the Islamic world.
In ancient times, Doha was a centre for the
pearl trade and home to most of the countrys
inhabitants. Explore this bit of history at Al
Zubarah (qm.org.qa). Once a thriving pearl,
shing and trading port, Al Zubarah is a
superbly preserved example of an 18th- and
19th-century Gulf merchant town. In 2013 it
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA; PHOTOS: CORBIS

received UNESCO World Heritage Site status,

though travellers ocked to it long before.
The Film City and Zekreet beach, close
to Dukhan will appeal to those who seek
off-roading adventures. The Zekreet beach is
awash with historic sites and remnants of old
settlements. However, if youre short on time,
Al Koot Fort near the Doha Corniche, built in
1927 by Sheikh Abdullah bin Qassim
Al Thani to protect the nearby Souq Waqif
from would-be thieves, can offer a taste of
history and architecture.

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 101

 REVEAL
THE
UNEXPECTED
STAY IN STYLE
Each room is lled with iconic
design, tech savvy amenities
& a stylish decor. Savor award-
winning cuisine or play the
night away while listening to
the latest world beats in any
of our restaurants & lounges.
Welcome to where amplied
entertainment & innovative
cuisine are within reach of
W Doha.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

+974 4453 5000
whoteldoha.com
info.wdoha@whotels.com
 Hakkasan Doha
at The St. Regis
DINING
Doha is home to traditional eateries, Michelin-
starred restaurants and stylish lounges and clubs
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
SAFFRON LOUNGE
Indian cuisine gets a creative twist from
Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia
at Saffron Lounge in Katara Cultural
Village. The menu is based on the adage
less is more, with dishes from different
parts of the country. The restaurants take
on Indian street food, chaat, is worth the
trip alone. Express lunches and set
menus are also available.
saffronlounge.net
HAKKASAN DOHA
Exquisite yet private, this is one of the
best lounges in Doha, set in The St. Regis
gardens with private dining available.
Head for the Ling Ling lounge and order
104 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
The Hakka cocktail along with crispy
scallops with pine nuts or the fried
Hakkasan dumplings.
hakkasan.com
CIAO
Serving authentic Italian cuisine, this
restaurant is disarmingly simple and is
owned and operated by an Italian family
who are passionate when it comes to
debates on what constitutes a good pizza.
00974-4468 9100
GRAND JOUD CAF & RESTAURANT
Behind the Radisson Blu Hotel, this is one
of Dohas best-kept secrets with a shisha
lounge and a restaurant serving authentic
Arabic mezze like hummus, batata harra
W Dohas
Spice Market
(Lebanese spiced potatoes) and mains like
kebabs and shawarma alongside freshly
baked bread. The service is quick and they
dont mind if you linger on for hours.
00974-5551 3950
ARYAAS
In the mood for vegetarian fare? Aryaas
serves piping-hot South Indian street-food
like dosa and rasam. Things may get a bit
spicy you have been warned.
aryaasqatar.com
HALUL CAF
A humble caf that crops up out of nowhere
if youre walking from the Museum of Islamic
Art toward the corniche promenade. A
local institution, its known for its shisha,
outdoor and indoor seating options, rustic
furniture and waiters who greet you like
an old friend. Youll see locals playing a
variety of card games here.
CHAPATI & KARAK
At Chapati & Karak in the Katara Cultural
Village you get exactly that. A hot cup of
strong karak chai and a warm Kerala-style
parotta (bread). Dip the bread in the tea,
take a bite and let the avours take over.
katara.net
BREAD AND BAGELS
Bread and Bagels at Beach Tower, West
Bay, near the Diplomatic district is a bright
and cheery place to go for a breakfast
bagel with a variety of cheese selections.
On most evenings, youll nd expat writer
groups and poetry clubs (check with
individual groups about the timings).
breadandbagels.com
RICS KOUNTRY KITCHEN
Rics Kountry Kitchen on Ras Abu Abboud
Street, Umm Ghuwailina, is a popular spot
for a hearty Friday morning breakfast. Some
say this is one of the oldest expat-run hubs
in the area and it has stood the test of time.
00974-4443 7846
 TRAVELLER PROMOTION

The Ritz-Carlton
Belgian Caf at Dohas Admirals Club
InterContinental Doha

Sky View at
La Cigale Hotel
THE CELLAR
At this bar at Oryx Rotana, the grape
collection matches the tapas with a wide
selection. On Tuesday nights you can get
unlimited grape for AED 300 per person
and unlimited tapas for AED 160 per person.
rotana.com

SPICE MARKET
Spice Market at W Doha offers a modern
take on Southeast Asian street food like
the spiced chicken samosa served with
cilantro yoghurt or the steamed lobster in
butter-fried garlic, ginger and dried chilli
that will please the most discerning palates.
The lounge has one of the best happy hour
menus and it lls up quickly.
spicemarketdoha.com

CHAMPIONS
Champions at Marriott Marquis City Center
A LOCAL INSTITUTION, centre stage, with award-winning musicians
putting on top-notch performances. The
Doha offers an authentic sports bar
experience with 47 LCD TV screens, private
ITS KNOWN FOR comfort food offered here is inspired by
New York and New Orleans.
rooms, ice-cold drinks and sliders that are ITS SHISHA, RUSTIC jalcdoha.com
piping hot and bursting with avour. The
dress code is smart casual although you see FURNITURE AND WAITERS ADMIRALS CLUB

WHO GREET YOU LIKE

many corporate honchos unwinding here
after a hard day of deal-making.
marriottmarquisdohadining.com
BELGIAN CAF
Belgian Caf at InterContinental Doha is
a universal favourite, with a range of hops
imported from Europe, juicy, steaming
mussels and wafes (of course). Its one of
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA
AN OLD FRIEND
on the 55th and 56th oor of the
glamorous InterContinental Doha - The
City, and the two-hour happy hour is a
winner. The interiors are soft and dark,
The Ritz-Carlton Doha Admirals Club faces
the marina and takes full advantage with an
inviting outdoor patio and seating area, ideal
for balmy evenings. Burgers and calamari
come highly recommended and theres an
extensive drinks menu.
ritzcarlton.com
SKY VIEW

the most relaxed addresses in town and is
packed to the rafters most weekends.
ihg.com
STRATA LOUNGE
The beautiful 360-degree views of Doha
are reason enough to visit Strata Lounge,
though the uorescent lights come on
when its party time.
ihg.com
JAZZ AT LINCOLN CENTER DOHA
Jazz lovers head to this soulful club at
The St. Regis Doha, where the music takes
An award-winning lounge at La Cigale Hotel,
this is one of the most frequented hotspots.
Located on Suhaim Bin Hamad Street, the
open-air seated lounge has a sophisticated
feel. Sip cool drinks while watching the lights
of Doha twinkle far below.
lacigalehotel.com

JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 105

TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Sharq Village & Spa is a treat for your mind, body and soul
L
ocated in an area known
as Sharq or the Orient,
Sharq Village & Spa is a
luxury beachfront property
overlooking Doha Bay, 15 minutes
from the city centre. Inspired by
the culture and architecture of a
traditional Qatari village, the 174-room
resort, operated by The Ritz-Carlton
Hotel Company, blends authentic
Arabian architecture with the very
latest in modern comforts. Offering
some of the most imaginative dining
experiences in Doha, the options
range from beachfront seafood
restaurant Al Dana to Persian eatery
Parisa and all-day-dining Al Liwan;
a rooftop shisha terrace and a cigar
lounge are prime evening spots.
Sharq Village & Spa also houses
over 1,130sqm of conference space
including two impressive ballrooms, a
boardroom and a grand reception foyer,
making it the ideal venue for events
and business meetings.
The 6,500sqm Six Senses Spa is the
largest in the region, with four separate
spa villages incorporating traditional
106 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
ORIENTAL
escape
Qatari design elements such as weaving
A treatment room at the
pathways, cascading fountains and lush hotels Six Senses Spa. Above:
greenery, all aimed at creating a sense The Qatari village-inspired
of inner peace and holistic wellbeing. resort overlooks Doha Bay
Traditional Arabian, Thai and Swedish
therapies are performed by trained
international therapists in the 23
treatment rooms, with treatments
ranging from an Arabian facial to a de-
stress massage. Also on offer are holistic
therapies such as naturopathy, and
specialist visiting practitioners bring an
even wider range of services to the spa.
State-of-the-art facilities also include
exercise areas, changing, relaxation and
prayer rooms, and spaces to practice
everything from Tai Chi to meditation.
Qualied instructors are on hand for
personal or group training. The Six
Senses Spa also offers an exclusive
ladies entrance and reception area, a
private gym and exercise area, as well
as a full-service beauty salon with hair,
nail and henna treatments.
For more information, please call
00974-4425 6666 or visit ritzcarlton.com/
en/Properties/SharqVillage
 Let us offer you Arabian hospitality at its finest.

Let us teach you about our rich Qatari heritage.

Let us wrap you in luxury and comfort.

Let us keep a place in your heart.

2016 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company

TRAVELLER PROMOTION
Villaggio shopping
mall. Below:
Mall of Qatar

The stalls of
Souq Waqif

SHOPPING
Pick from expansive
malls, vibrant souks
and unique boutiques
WHERE TO SHOP
The Italian-themed Villaggio (villaggioqatar.
com) features dreamy Venetian interiors and
a 150m-long indoor canal with gondolas.
Kids will love the Gondolania Theme Park,
which includes an Olympic-sized ice rink, a
bowling centre and a rollercoaster. At the
heart of the mall is a luxury section lined
with heavyweights like Louis Vuitton, Dior,
Gucci, Valentino and Tom Ford.
The Mall of Qatar (mallofqatar.com.qa),
adjacent to the Al Rayyan FIFA World Cup
stadium, is a massive venue for shopping,
dining and entertainment with the worlds
rst 360-degree professional theatre and
the largest IMAX laser 3D projection system
electronics, accessories and jewellery;
Amouage (amouage.com) with perfumes
developed by some of the worlds top noses
from Paris, Geneva and New York; and
Kare Qatar (kare-design.com), which offers
creative solutions for designer living.
If you love labels like Missoni and
Moschino, stop by The Gate Mall
(thegatemall.com) where youll also
nd Salam Department Store (salams.
com) offering 300 of the worlds top
ITS LIKE DISNEYLAND
designer labels.
Well worth the trek, City Center Doha
(citycenterdoha.com) in the West Bay
BUT WITH 5 00 STORES,
area has a great mix of high-street brands
as well as a massive skating rink and
100 RESTAURANTS AND
childrens entertainment options. 1 9 CINEMA SCREENS
The Pearl-Qatar (thepearlqatar.com)
is an exclusive island connected to the the gold thread-embedded bisht (traditional
mainland with a host of designer boutiques robes for formal events), honey from Yemen,
including Alexander McQueen, Herms and dates from Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Oman,
Giuseppe Zanotti Design. Take a stroll along Iranian spices (sumac, saffron) and freshly
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA; PHOTOS: CORBIS

in the world. Its like Disneyland but with 500
retail stores, 100 restaurants and a complex
of 19 cinema screens. The ve-star Fashion
Hotel, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton,
is attached to the mall and a good option for
shopaholics who need to take a break.
If crowds arent your thing, head out
to Lagoona Mall (lagoonamall.com),
located near The Pearl-Qatar. The shopping
destination is home to lifestyle department
store Fifty One East (51east.com.qa),
offering globally renowned lines of clothing,
the waterfront to check out the beautiful
yachts or enjoy some post-shopping dining.
The site where Souq Waqif stands has
been a marketplace for over 250 years
where, historically, locals and Bedouins
would travel to buy and sell sh, goats and
wool. Located on Grand Hamad Street
behind the corniche, the souk is vibrant and
includes traditional Qatari design elements
like mud-rendered walls, exposed timber
beams and cobbled lanes. Explore the maze
of alleyways where youll nd tailors creating
made bread. You can also buy traditional
Arabic musical instruments like oud or
darbuka (Arabic drums). Souq Waqif also
has prayer beads made of genuine amber. To
test their authenticity, rub the beads against
your knuckles and a delicate scent will
emerge. Not far from here is the Gold Souq,
near Al Fardan Centre, which is home to
over 40 shops selling jewellery brands from
all over the world. For ultra-luxe jewellery,
dont miss standalone stores like Damas,
Malabar Gold and Prakkat Jewellery.

108 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016

 WEEKEND ESCAPE
AT THE FINEST
ADDRESS IN QATAR

Escape to an exclusive destination,

where every moment becomes
a treasure and every experience
a family tradition.

Experience the nest 336 Rooms

& Suites in Doha. Savor avors from
eleven extraordinary restaurants &
lounges including Gordon Ramsay,
and Jazz at Lincoln Center. The joy
of leisure redened by The St. Regis
Doha. Come, explore.

al gassar resort at west bay

stregisdoha.com
974.4446.0000

A LEGACY OF LUXURY .
NOW AT OVER 30 OF THE WORLD S
FINEST HOTELS & RESORTS .
AFRICA THE AMERICAS ASIA
EUROPE THE MIDDLE EAST
20102015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG,
St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. stregis.com

St Regis_Conde Nast Traveller_Weekend_21.5x27.5.indd 1 12/16/15 1:17 PM

 HOTELS
From beachfront retreats to city
escapes, youll be spoilt for choice
WHERE TO STAY
THE TORCH DOHA
Within walking distance of the Aspire Zone,
Khalifa Stadium and Villaggio, the Torch is
easily the most recognisable landmark in
Al Sadd. Shaped like a aming torch, the
elegant hotel is a 40-minute drive from
the airport and 20 minutes from West Bay.
The 163 rooms and suites feature a unique
iPad in-room solution, mood lighting and
interactive LED TVs. The Torch Tea Garden
on the 21st oor overlooks the swimming
pool and the Aspire Zone. For a relaxed
afternoon, try the Deep Renewal Massage
at the Quan spa.
Doubles from AED 1,500, thetorchdoha.com
Dining
Panorama (seafood); Three Sixty (revolving
restaurant); Flying Carpet (all-day dining);
Sky, La Vida, Kuc, Almas (lounges); Torch
Tea Garden
THE RITZ-CARLTON DOHA
The opulent Ritz-Carlton Doha is tucked
away on an island, a few minutes from
Lagoona Mall. The entrance pathway is
lined with palm trees and opens up to this
palatial hotel, the lone giant in the skyline.
The rooms afford beautiful panoramas of
the coast and Doha city. There are 374 guest
rooms, 61 luxury suites and 42 club rooms.
If youre a swimmer, youll love the indoor
and outdoor options with a swim-up bar,
whirlpool, plunge pool and childrens pool.
Doubles from AED 1,050; ritzcarlton.com
110 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
Dining
The Lagoon (Arabic, Middle Eastern); Porcini
Restaurant (Italian/Mediterranean); La Mer
(French); The Lobby Lounge (continental);
Flamingos (caf); Habanos (lounge)
BANANA ISLAND RESORT DOHA
BY ANANTARA
Voted as one of Dohas top luxury hotel
and spas, this Arabian resort has an 800m
private beach and a 100m-long lagoon pool.
The Anantara Spa offers unbeatable services
for wellness and rejuvenation. The property
is located on Banana Island, 20 minutes
from the international airport, and accessible
by luxury yacht, ferry or private helicopter.
There are 141 rooms, suites, pool villas and
over-water villas.
Doubles from AED 1,535; doha.anantara.com
Dining
Azraq (international); Q Lounge & Restaurant
(Mediterranean); Teds (American); Riva
(Italian); Al Nahham (Middle Eastern)
SHARQ VILLAGE & SPA
This tranquil oasis is ideal if you prefer rustic,
traditional architecture and design. Just
12 minutes from the international airport,
Sharq Village & Spa is known for its award-
winning Six Senses Spa offering a peaceful
retreat. The bustling city, the corniche,
Museum of Islamic Art and Souq Waqif
lie a few minutes away, yet barely a sound
is heard above the gentle crash of the
waves. The property has 174 rooms, sub-
A seaview pool villa at
Banana Island Resort
Doha by Anantara
divided into the Royal Villa, King Suites, Two
Bedroom Suites and Deluxe Rooms.
Doubles from AED 1,250; ritzcarlton.com
Dining
Cigar Lounge; Al Jalsa (desserts); Parisa
(Persian); Al Liwan (continental); Al
Dana (seafood); Al Wanis Shisha Terrace
(Lebanese); Al Seef Snack Bar (Arabic); Sea
Lounge; Gazebo (private beach dining)
INTERCONTINENTAL DOHA
With 500m of sandy beach and
landscaped gardens, InterContinental
Doha is located on West Bay Lagoon.
The popular hotel is home to Belgian Caf,
a hit with Doha residents. The property
boasts 258 rooms, divided into Classic
Rooms, Executive Rooms and Suites, which
come with multimedia panels and iHome
docking stations. The hotel also has
fantastic city and marina views.
Doubles from AED 1,050; ihg.com
Dining
Belgian Caf (Belgian); Paloma (Texmex);
Coral All Day Dining (buffet); Mykonos
(Greek/Mediterranean); Fish Market
(seafood); Lava Lounge; Pool Bar
THE ST. REGIS DOHA
This stellar property has been in the news
since its debut a few years ago, setting new
standards with its signature St. Regis Butler
Service. Home to Jazz at Lincoln Center
Doha, which hosts top jazz musicians, as well
as the Remde Spa, the 336-room property,

part of the Al Gassar Resort, is ideal for
both business and leisure travellers. The
Katara Cultural Village is within walking
distance of the property.
Doubles from AED 1,200; stregisdoha.com
Dining
The Rooftop (lounge); Vintage Lounge;
Al-Sultan Brahim (Lebanese); Hakkasan
(Chinese, Cantonese); Vine Restaurant
(international); Sarab Lounge (caf);
Astor Grill (steakhouse); Oyster Bay & Bar
(Caribbean); Opal By Gordon Ramsay
(European); Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha
(New Orleans comfort food); Gordon
Ramsay (Mediterranean)
LA CIGALE HOTEL
This trendy, upscale property is home to
the super-exclusive Club 7 nightclub and
the open-air lounge Madison Piano Bar.
Business travellers will love its location,
easy access and the superb Wi-Fi
connectivity. The hotel has 225 rooms and
suites including the Business Suite, Junior
Suite and Executive Suite, and also features
an indoor pool and full-service spa.
Doubles from AED 1,080; lacigalehotel.com
Dining
Sky View Lounge; Madison Piano Bar
(lounge); Shisha Garden (Lebanese);
Orangery Caf Trottoir (Middle Eastern);
Le Cigalon (international); Di Capri (Italian);
Le Central (Mediterranean, seafood); Yen
Sushi Bar (Japanese)
W DOHA HOTEL & RESIDENCES
This swanky 442-room hotel is the place
to be seen and is high on design with
artistic interiors and world-class service. A
20-minute ride from the airport, this is one
WORDS: NITYA SHUKLA
of Dohas few pet-friendly hotels. W Doha
houses meeting rooms equipped with state-
of-the-art technology and multiple venues
for business events and conferences. Leisure
travellers enjoy its hip vibe and spectacular
city and water views. Bliss Spa is an award-
winning centre to relax and rejuvenate with
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
A sea-view room at
Four Seasons Hotel
Doha. Left: The pool
at Sharq Village & Spa
The St. Regis Doha
an impressive outdoor pool. Located in
West Bay, the hotel is a short walk from
City Center Mall.
Doubles from AED 1,330; whoteldoha.com
Dining
Spice Market (Asian); La Spiga By
Paper Moon (Italian); Market by Jean-
Georges (international), Wahm Lounge;
Crystal Lounge
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DOHA
With a fabulous location facing the Arabian
Gulf and home to the Robert De Niro-owned
Japanese restaurant Nobu Doha, this
stylish 232-room property features massive
French windows, a private beach, a marina
and ve swimming pools including the
grotto pools. The three-storey spa offers
an impressive array of services.
Doubles from AED 1,800; fourseasons.
com/doha
Market by Jean-
Dining Georges at W Doha
Nobu Doha (Japanese); Pool Grill
(continental); Il Teatro (Italian); Shisha
Terrace (Lebanese); Library Bar; Cigar
Lounge; Arabica Caf; Seasons Tea Lounge;
Aprs Spa Caf (healthy fare)
SHANGRI-LA DOHA
The ve-star property is the new kid on the
block, a 50-oor tower in West Bay that
boasts a lagoon-shaped pool. Style and
design are high points here, as youll see in
the 272 guest rooms and suites. Close to
Souq Waqif, the corniche and West Bay, the
hotel also offers views of the Arabian Gulf.
Doubles from AED 1,095;
shangri-la.com/doha
Dining
Shanghai Club (Cantonese, Chinese); Fuego
(steakhouse); The Den; Yabby (seafood);
Sridan (Middle Eastern)
JANUARY 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 111
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
The innity pool and
private beach. Right:
A Deluxe Room
MARSA MALAZ KEMPINSKI,
THE PEARL DOHA
European air meets Arabian design
and hospitality at this lavish property
set on a pristine stretch of private
beach on The Pearl-Qatar. The 281
luxurious rooms include 69 suites,
two Presidential Suites and two Royal
Suites. The hotel features outdoor
pools, private butlers, state-of-the-art
gym technology and tennis courts.
The Palazzo Ballroom stretches
over 1,100sqm, ideal for events and
conferences, while The Spa by Clarins
offers heavenly treatments including
the Marsa Malaz Signature Hammam.
112 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
The hotel is situated
on a private island
on The Pearl-Qatar
THE SPA BY CLARINS
OFFERS HEAVENLY
TREATMENTS INCLUDING
THE MARSA MALAZ
SIGNATURE HAMMAM
The hotel is located 30 minutes
from Hamad International Airport, a
10-minute drive from West Bay and
ve minutes from Katara Cultural
Village, though you may never want to
leave this scenic man-made island.
Doubles from AED 1,200;
kempinski.com
Dining
PHOTOS: ANGEL MALLARI
Sawa (international); Al Sufra (Levant);
El Faro (Spanish); Toro Toro (pan-
Latin); Antica Pesa (Italian); Nozomi
(Japanese); Amwage Beach (al-fresco
grill); Illusion (rooftop lounge); Bohemia
(lounge); Caf Murano (gourmet caf);
Vitamine Caf (healthy food)
 Room with a view SPAIN SHA WELLNESS CLINIC, ALICANTE
GRAND SUITE
Stepping through glass doors on to a balcony overlooking the clear blue
of the Mediterranean Sea, it becomes quite clear that holistic wellness is
a priority at this destination clinic a soothing environment is, after all,
key for recuperation. The mild microclimate in this corner of Alicante,
next door to the Sierra Helada Natural Park, has been certied by the
World Health Organization as one of the worlds most favourable, so you
can spend time guilt-free out on the suites spacious terrace breathing in
that ne mountain air. Inside, modern interiors, 700-thread-count sheets
and a neutral colour palette keep things elegant yet comfortable; the
amenities are all organic. This is a theme throughout: the macrobiotic
molecular cuisine at SHAMADI, the clinics main restaurant, is prepared
114 COND NAST TRAVELLER JANUARY 2016
The picturesque Bay of
Altea can be explored
by catamaran or on a
diving expedition
WORDS: RHEA SARAN
with organic produce, most of which is cultivated on site. The SHA
method melds macrobiotic nutrition and natural healing therapies for
longevity and optimised health, and programmes are tailored to each
guest, ranging from detox to anti-stress, sleep recovery and weight
loss as well as non-invasive aesthetic improvements. Getting away to
a beautiful place can reset your mind; here, youve made the most of
your time away if youve reset your lifestyle.
Suites from AED 1,300 for double occupancy; Grand Suite
from AED 3,200 (sea views and Jacuzzi at additional cost);
0034-966-81 1199, shawellnessclinic.com
 Discover a magical world
where time stands still

Rates starting from

RO 300*

*Taxes extra

INCLUSIONS
One night accommodation on full board basis Private dinner or picnic setup at select venues
Including and not limited to meals, snacks, beverages Royal Turn down- Milk bath setup if requested in the tent
Complimentary Minibar $OOLQKRXVHDFWLYLWLHVOLNH6DQGFDVWOHELF\FOHNLWH\LQJNLGVSOD\DUHD
Laundry on complimentary basis 24 hours check in and check out facility
Unlimited beverages through out the stay Complimentary in-room Wi-Fi access incl. reception, restaurant and Ballroom
Half-day car at disposal (one time) Complimentary use of the Fitness Centre and mini gym
Complimentary Spa treatment of choice

stay@dunesbyalnahda.com www.dunesbyalnahda.com facebook.com/DunesByAlNahda +968 9723 5700

 MISSION PARTNER OF

Pristine Seas Expeditions Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe

Photograph: Aaron Wong

www.blancpain.com