Cosmeticsandtoiletries201702 DL

February 2017
Natural Betting
Clues on Biology:
to Safer A New Cosmetic
Sun Protection Culture
Garbage to
Glamour
Converting Food By-products to Beauty
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Untitled-1 1 2/12/16 2:21 PM
Cover Story Contents
February 2017 | Volume 132, number 2
6 Editors Note: Circling Back
8 Advisor Insight: Green

Chemistry Evolves Around
Life Cycle and Necessity
68 Endpoint. Secrets of the Trees

for Super Cosmetics?
by R.L. Grabenhofer
72 Ad Index
28
Market Intelligence
10 Sustainability: The Driving
Force Behind Beauty
Consumer Purchases
by I. Matthews
13 Technology Launches
Regulatory
14 Putting Product Safety
to the Test
9 EU Requirements for Risk Assessment
by P. Yvon
20 Research
16 Plant Oil Insight
42
From the Skins Perspective
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
20 Moving Toward Microbes

Bio-engineering a New Cosmetic Reality
by C. Agapakis, K. McDonnell and J.
Kakoyiannis
28 Garbage to Glamour
Recycling Food By-products for Skin Care
by G. DellAcqua, Ph.D.
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017
CT1702_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 2 1/27/17 2:09 PM

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EDITORIAL
Editors note | C&T
Contents Director Jo-El M. Grossman
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editors Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com
56
Savannah Saunders | ssaunders@allured.com
Brooke Schleehauf | 630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com
Lisa Schryver | 630-344-6068/lschryver@allured.com
Digital/Social Media Editor Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com
Research Analyst Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager/
C&T Summit Exhibits
& Sponsorships Tom Harris | 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com
Business Development Manager
Fragrance Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Director Linda Schmitt
Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan
Marketing Assistant Alyssa Howard
Customer Service 1-888-355-5962/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
DESIGN
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
38 Integrative Medicine and EVENTS
Research Group Show Director Sandy Chapin
Cosmetics Can Lead the Way Show Manager Mary Richter | 1-630-344-6023/mrichter@allured.com
by R.K. Sivamani, M.D., et al. CORPORATE

Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Partner & CEO George Fox
Formulating Controller
Digital Products Director
Linda Getner
Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
42 Safer Solar Protection Part II
Going Beyond UV Defense OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Alluredbooks
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56 Naturally Inhibit Fragrance 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A
Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA GCI (Global Cosmetic Industry) magazine
Degradation www.Allured.com Skin Inc. magazine
Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo
Rice Bran Sterols in Emulsions Face & Body Northern California Spa Conference and Expo
Face & Body Southeast Spa Conference and Expo
by S. Gupte and S. Sahasrabuddhe, Ph.D.
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
World Perfumery Congress
64 Fermentation Cosmetics Flavorcon
Bubbling Over with Innovation, Literally

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Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017
CT1702_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 4 1/25/17 1:48 PM

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Editors Note | C&T
Circling Back
Many choice clichs poetically describe the philosophical purpose and feel-good benefits of sustainable
practices. But in any industry, the bottom line is: there is a bottom line. The good news is, the two can coexist in
what has been deemed the circular economy. In fact, as is often referenced, one projection from the Aldersgate
Group states that by the year 2030, the UK economy alone could grow by 80 billion (approx. US$100 billion) by
better managing its resources.1
Green chemistry expert James Clark, Ph.D. (see Page 8), observes that the concept of a circular economy
sprouted quickly. This began as industries saw both the potential in by-products from other industries, and an ROI
for designing specialized processes to minimize and re-use by-products. In fact, an awards program for supporting
circular economy has grown around it.2 So it's becoming a win-win: increasing productivity and the bottom
line while decreasing waste. (Hear more on this from Clark on April 5, 2017, at the Sustainability Corner during
in-cosmetics Global in London. I'll be moderatingcome by to say hello.)
While companies build business plans toward this win-win initiative, regulators, governments, civil groups
and some multinationals are building rules and goals around it. According to the World Economic Forum,3
work toward the circular economy will manifest in China (Guangzhou),4 East Africa (Rwanda), Europe (the
Netherlands),5 Latin America, Japan and the United States. However, the forum emphasizes
that accelerating this transformation will require "a simultaneously 'glocal' approach."
This circles back to cosmetics, where our industry can focus its own glocal efforts. For
example, in this issue, Dell'Acqua explores food by-products for skin care. And in the same
vein, Singh and Agapakis put microbes to work for cosmetic ingredients. Also, part II of
the controversial Gupta sunscreens article, continued from January, looks to nature for new
ideas in sunscreen development.
This issue was designed to present new ideas for sustainable product development that's
a win-win for your bottom line. Did we succeed? Please circle back with your feedback.
1. http://bit.ly/2jVEXk9
2. https://thecirculars.org/finalists
3. weforum.org/projects/circular-economy
4. http://chinawaterrisk.org/notices/chinas-circular-economy-plans-for-2015 Rachel L. Grabenhofer
5. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:52015DC0614 C&T Managing Editor
CT1702_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 1/30/17 10:29 AM

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NEW DESIGN?
Dont miss all the changes Cosmetics & Toiletries is making!
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CT16_subs_new_design.indd 1 1/23/17 11:06 AM

Scientific Advisory Advisor Insight | C&T
Board
Green Chemistry Evolves

Around Lifecycle and Necessity
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

Dermatology This guest advisor commentary is an excerpt taken from
Consulting Services
an interview with Prof. James Clark, Ph.D., of the York,
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D. UK-based Green Chemistry Centre for Excellence. The full-
Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
length Podcast is available at CosmeticsandToiletries.com/
Trefor Evans, Ph.D. multimedia.
TA Evans LLC
S. Peter Foltis
C&T: Within the past ten or so years, how has sustainability and
LOral green chemistry evolved?
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.

Atlantic Coast Media Group
Clark: Many are recognizing that green chemistry is a good
place to be. It may not be called green chemistry but references
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D. are made to biorefineries, bioresources and the circular economy.
Shiseido Research Center Theres all sorts of new terminology now, in this same space. In
terms of the way the subject has developed, its become much more
Karl Laden, Ph.D.
holistic. In the early days of green chemistry, people talked about
Alpa Cosmetics
the ways chemicals were made and how they could be greener,
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. safer, more efficientall good things, and all still true today. But
Johnson & Johnson nowadays, people are more keen to embrace the lifecycle. Theyre
interested in the feedstocks and raw materials more than they used
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble to be.
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D. C&T: How are regulations impacting this market?
Coty-Lancaster
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

Advisor: REACh is beginning to show what its all about.
Industrial Consulting Research People are realizing theres a growing list of chemicals that really
are not sustainable, in a legislative sense apart from everything
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D. else, and thats very good. So people need new green chemicals.
LVMH Recherche
Ron Sharpe C&T: Where do you see potential for new green chemistry?
Advisor: Paper and pulp, for one. Newsprint is not in
Amway
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.

demand as it used to be, so paper and pulp mills are losing money.
Consultant
But theyre sitting on this huge resource that
David C. Steinberg is renewable, bio-based and chemically rich
Steinberg & Associates and theyve already got the infrastructure
to produce chemicals. A few years ago, we Prof. James Clark, Ph.D.
Peter Tsolis
The Este Lauder Companies
invented a new solvent and in collaboration Guest Advisor
with an Australian company, opened a produc- University of York
Russel Walters, Ph.D. tion plant for it in a paper and pulp mill. The Green Chemistry Centre
Johnson & Johnson mill accesses twenty million tons a year of for Excellence
renewable wood, so the volumes are huge. It
Claudie Willemin
LOral just went full production in January 2017.
Another big area is earth-abundant metals; C&T Webcasts
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D. in things like catalysis and other energy
Unilever Llisten to our podcast with James Clark, Ph.D.
applications such as batteries. Theres a www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
drive toward resources that are more earth-
abundant; metals like iron or nickel. We
need to move away from processes that use
metals like palladium, which is scarce and
becoming more expensive. Lithium is another one. So I see a lot of
chemistries going on around earth-abundant metals.
CT1702_Advisor_Insight_fcx.indd 8 1/25/17 1:54 PM

Market Intelligence | C&T
KEY POINTS
Fifty-one percent of consumers globally say
their beauty and grooming product choices
are influenced by the brands level of social
responsibility.
What has changed in recent years is that large

multinationals and conventional brands are now
investing in sustainability.
Sustainability
The Driving Force Behind Beauty
Consumer Purchases*
A
*Republished with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry: www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/natural/
Sustainability-Is-Driving-Beauty-Consumer-Purchases-409565475.html
Imogen Matthews
Consultant to in-cosmetics t the heart of the argument for the cre-
ation of new sustainability protocols and
standards are the changing demands of the
beauty and personal care consumer. New
research from Canadean1 confirms that
51% of consumers globally say their beauty
and grooming product choices are often or always influenced by
how environmentally friendly/socially responsible the brand is.
Living ethically is of growing importance to todays consumers,
particularly as awareness of social and environmental issues grows,
Reproduction in English or any other language of

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017
2017 Allured Business Media.
CT1702_Mrkt_Rprt_fcx.indd 10 1/25/17 2:05 PM

Sustainability is a nebulous term but has
been moving up the publics political and
economic agenda.
said Jamie Mills, analyst at Canadean. This can Grupo Boticrio, the second largest cosmetics
be attributed to the accessibility to information, as company in Brazil, has switched to green poly-
well as those issues being at the forefront of global ethylene packaging for its Cuide-se Bem brand.
and national agendas. In turn, this concern is The polyethylene is made from sugar, rather than
trickling down to influence the choices of todays petroleum, saving more than 90 tons of plastics
consumers. per year.
Mills argued that accreditation for issues There are also cost benefits since moving to
such as fair trade and recyclable packaging are eco-design, as there is 10% less plastic material
an imperative, as is greater action by brands to used in the packaging, said Sahota. Similarly,
include sustainability initiatives at the product P&G has made a commitment to have zero waste
level and across the wider brand ethos. to landfill; it currently has 68 zero-waste manufac-
turing sites across the globe.
Beautys
Sustainability Leaders Less is More
So which brands are doing it best? Sustainabil- Sometimes, brands come unstuck when
ity pioneer Weleda, for example, has undertaken taking a particular stance. Taking parabens out of
ethical sourcing of raw materials for decades, formulations, for example, was once a ploy used to
while Neals Yard Remedies was the first UK high sell products. Only two of the parabens in use in
street retailer to go carbon neutral. Neals Yard the industry actually showed mild toxicity upon
Remedies purchases carbon offsets from wind scientific review, but now microbiome science is
power projects in India and China, supplied by again bringing the issue of preservation back into
The CarbonNeutral Company, and has devised focus.2
a Carbon Action Plan to deliver its carbon However, Marie Alice Dibon, founder of Alice
emission reductions. The brand uses its Carbon- Communications Inc., explained that companies
Neutral certification in advertising, catalogs, shop that jump on the latest sustainability issue often
windows and its website. do so without correct knowledge of the science
What has changed in recent years is that behind it.
large multinationals and conventional brands are Understand it, she advised. Hire the people
also now investing in sustainability, said Amarjit that can help you communicate internally about
Sahota, CEO of Organic Monitor. It is common it, informing all levels. Not everyone needs a
for many such companies to develop natural lines Ph.D. in science but everyone who works in our
(reflecting green formulations), reducing packag- industry needs to understand at least the basics
ing footprints, etc. and follow thenews.
Another approach is for companies to buy
green expertise, such as Unilevers purchase of
Authentically Sustainable
the green brand Seventh Generation, with the According to Dibon, authenticity and ethics
plan to re-engineer its product formulations. are values that run throughout an organization
but are tricky to communicate.
Waste Not Theyre not [just] injected into a product one
Beauty companies including Unilever and morning because we choose to convey them now,
P&G are recognizing the commercial benefits she explained.
of reducing energy use and water footprints and Dibon believes the beauty industry needs to be
optimizing waste management. proactive in setting industry guidelines as well as
Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11

labels to reassure the consumer. If the big players Key environmental and social issues the
apply best practices, they will pull the industry up planet faces today are not the same as those it
as a whole. faced 20 or 10 years ago, said Sahota. The same
We cant make the same mistake we did with will be true in five to 10 years time.
organic products, she warned, with too many
certifications in the European Union and not References
enough in the United States. She added, A good 1. Candean, Organic Monitor and Marie Alice Dibon will deliver
social media policy is essential as it helps with marketing trends presentations at the 2017 in-cosmetics
Global event in London, taking place April 46. Further
transparency. But there is no magic bullet and it information can be found at www.in-cosmetics.com.
will take time.
2. Read more at skininc.com/skinscience/ingredients/
Sustainabilitys Evolution Ingredient-Hysteria-and-Misconceptions-238484541.html
Sustainability is a nebulous term but has been

moving up the publics political and economic
agenda as businesses adopt responsible practices
toward the sourcing and manufacturing of their
products. In beauty, it began with a move toward
natural and/or organic formulations, and has
since moved on to sourcing ingredients ethically
and producing eco-friendly packaging.
For example, Unilever has undertaken
advertising campaigns that emphasize good social Sustainability:
causes as part of its Sustainable Living Plan, which
aims to expand the companys business while
Not If But How
reducing its environmental footprint. The pro- Some actions arent voluntary but mandatory.
gram, which achieved an overall score of 92 out Breathing, eating, sleeping. . .sustaining. And
of a possible 100 on the Dow Jones Sustainability companies have accepted this fact, if for no other
Index, recently partnered with ingredient supplier reason than maintaining profitability. Some have even
Symrise, Deutsche Gesellschaft fr Internationale fully embraced it, not only in theory but in practice.
Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH, and Save the However, according to a report by the SustainAbility
Children to improve the livelihoods of vanilla think tank, a companys future success lies not in
farming communities in Madagascar. whether they have adopted sustainable practices, but
in how they are implementing them.
Similarly, LOral has made a commitment
with its Sharing Beauty With All pledge. Recently, A key measure of corporate leadership will be
the company was granted an A rating by the to demonstrate how to move from ambitious goals
to ambitious implementation, said Earth Security
nonprofit group CDP for fighting deforestation,
Groups Alejandro Litovsky, in an interview.
especially for its sustainable sourcing actions of
Partnering with in-cosmetics Global, during the April
raw materials [such as palm oil and timber], used
4-6, 2017 event, Cosmetics & Toiletries and Global
in its product packaging and formulas. Cosmetic Industry are proud to support the events
new Sustainability Corner, to help product developers
The Future of Sustainability figure out the how.
The growing refugee crisis, economic migrants Beginning each day, our editors will kick off the
in Europe and the United States, the rise of discussion by presenting thought leaders and pioneers
far-right political parties and Brexitall of these in this crucial market segment. For example, Prof.
issues will impact on the way brands do business James Clark, Ph.D., of the Green Chemistry Centre of
in the future. As a result, Organic Monitor has Excellence, University of York, will present on green
chemistry, the circular economy and more. We hope to
forecasted that social issues will feature more
see you in London!
prominently in sustainability in the future, as
social inequality, developing world poverty and C&T Webcasts
political unrest continue to have a profound effect Llisten to our podcast with James Clark, Ph.D.
on consumers lives. www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Technology Launches
Natural Plant Actives A Matte, Vegan Pigment
Photo Credit: Alban Muller Photo Credit: Merck KGaA
Alban Muller announced the launch of 12 new Cosme-Phytamis Merck KGaAs Ronastar Red Allure (INCI: Not Available) is a
(INCI: Varies) ingredients to fill consumers needs for multifunctional, matte, burgundy-red pigment, which can be used in various color
efficient and natural cosmetics. Zeodration is used to obtain a powder cosmetics. It can be incorporated into various formulations, is a
concentrated in active molecules, which is then solubilized in a carrier vegan product, and does not contain gluten or genetically modified
and incorporated in plant-origin glycerin. Cosme-Phytamis liquid ingredients. Ronastar Red Allure is made up of titanium dioxide
extracts are REACH-compliant and free from palm oil and GMOs. and iron oxide-coated silica. A pure, mineral pigment, it gives off a
www.albanmuller.com subtle effect.
www.merck.de
Whitening Marine Active Vegan Thickening Agents
Photo Credit: Lessonia
Lessonia featured the first whitening marine active ingredient certified Formulators working with surfactants, binding agents, emulsifiers
as organic and free of preservatives. Fucowhite (INCI: Glycerin (and) and more can now look to Cosphatec GmbH for vegan-certified
Water (aqua) (and) Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract) is derived through thickening agents. Following the roll-out of the new, natural-
the science of marine glycobiology. Extracted from the brown algae derived and vegan thickening agent, Cosphaderm KG (INCI:
Ascophyllum nodosum, the resulting ingredient is a purified fucoidan- Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract), Cosphaderm X 34 and
polyphenol complex. Tested on 24 volunteers, the active decreased skin Cosphaderm X soft (both INCIs: Xanthan Gum) are now offered
pigmentation and increased skin clarity. in a vegan-certified version. They provide benefits including skin
www.lessonia.com conditioning, emulsion stabilizing, gel forming and viscosity control.
www.cosphatec.com
CT1702_Tech_Launches_fcx.indd 13 1/27/17 1:59 PM

Regulatory | C&T
KEY POINTS
European Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009
requires that, for each cosmetic product placed
on the market, a safety evaluation must be
performed. The risk assessment procedure and
toxicological endpoints are discussed here.
The safety-in-use of cosmetic products has

been established in Europe by controlling the
substances, their chemical structure, toxicity
profiles and exposure patterns.
Putting Product
Regulatory Review
Safety to the Test

9 EU Requirements for Risk Assessment
A
Editors note: This article is the sixth installment in a series covering EU requirements to market cosmetic products. To view them all, visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com.
Pascal Yvon
Consultant, IDEA Test Group
Martillac, France
s previously described, Cosmetics Regulation (EC)
No.1223/2009 is the main regulatory framework
for cosmetic products placed on the EU market.1
Cosmetic products must be safe for human health,
thus the regulation requires they undergo a safety
assessment; also described previously.2
Per the EU regulation, the safety of cosmetic products overall is based
on the safety of their ingredients.3, 4 The rationale behind this is that many
thousands of different cosmetic products on the EU market are all derived

CT1702_Regulatory_Yvon_fcx.indd 14 1/25/17 5:10 PM

Per the EU regulation, the safety of
cosmetic products is based on the safety of
theiringredients.
from a limited number of substances. Therefore, Endpoints that may be relevant for the toxico-
these substances must be evaluated by toxicologi- logical profile are listed below. For each, the test
cal testing, comprising the following. methods that may be used are listed according to
their Organization for Economic Cooperation and
Risk Assessment Procedure Development (OECD) number.
The procedure is divided into four parts: 5. Skin irritation: Assay on reconstructed
1. Hazard identification: This is carried out epidermis (OECD 439)
to identify the intrinsic toxicological properties of 6. Eye irritation: BCOP (OECD 437), ICE
the substance. (OECD 438), FL test (OECD 460), EpiOcular
2. Dose-response assessment: This evaluates (OECD 492), STE (OECD 491), Het-Cam
the relationship between the exposure and toxic 7. Skin sensitization: KeratinoSens
response. In the case of an effect with a threshold, (OECD 442D), DPRA (OECD 442C), h-CLAT
usually the highest dose at which no observed (OECD442E)
adverse effect levels (NOAEL) are present is 8. Genotoxicity: Ames test (OECD 471), MLA
determined. (OECD 476), Chromosomal aberration (OECD
3. Exposure assessment: This refers to the 473), Micronucleus (OECD 487)
amount of the substance and frequency with 9. Photo-induced toxicity: 3T3 NRU
which humans are exposed to it. These deter- (OECD432)
minations are used to calculate the systemic All data sources can be used, including
exposure dose (SED). databanks, published literature, in silico (QSAR)
4. Risk characterization: In the case of a assessments, relevant data on analogous com-
threshold effect, the Margin of Safety (MoS) is pounds, post-market surveillance, etc.
calculated using the following equation: MoS = An appropriate weight-of-evidence (WoE)
NOAEL/SED. An ingredient must have an MoS of approach is used in the safety assessment for
at least 100 to be safe in a specific formulation. reviewing data from all existing sources.
Once completed, the toxicological data for all
Toxicological Endpoints substances will be taken into consideration by the
To assess the toxic potential of a cosmetic sub- safety assessor during the safety evaluation of a
stance, a series of toxicity studies is performed to finished cosmetic product.
determine the hazard in general. The EU regula-
tion prohibits the marketing of finished products References
containing ingredients subjected to animal testing All websites accessed Jan. 19, 2017.
after 2013. The safety data must therefore be 1. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/
derived from alternative non-animal means. HTML/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20150416&from=EN
2. CosmeticsandToiletries.com/regulatory/region/
europe/10-Aspects-of-Cosmetics-Data-Mandated-by-the-
EU-401367306.html
In the United States, the FDA announced it
3. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/
will begin to make public some information its TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32013D0674
Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition 4. SCCSs Note of guidance for the testing of cosmetic ingredi-
receives regarding adverse events from ents and their safety evaluation, 9th revision (SCCS/1564/15)
(Sep 29, 2015)
cosmetics.
Additional resource: European Commission website, http://
ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry docs/sccs_o_190.pdf
(www.GCImagazine.com)
CT1702_Regulatory_Yvon_fcx.indd 15 1/25/17 5:10 PM

Research | C&T
KEY POINTS
There is significant variability in plant oil
compositions, and some oils can cause
problems for impaired skin barriers.
However, the right oils have been shown to

benefit the right skin types, some of which
are reviewed here.
Plant Oil Insight From the Skin's Perspective

*
P
Editor's Note: *Reproduced with permission from Skin Inc., SkinInc.com/skinscience/ingredients/Ingredient-Insight-Plant-Oils-411140585.html.
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

FaceWorkshops LLC
lant oils have risen in the skin care ranks, not
only as ingredients in treatment products, but
as their own product category for massage or
skin treatments. These oils can provide tremen-
dous benefits for the right skin type, some of
which are described here.
Oil Composition and Skin Barrier

As one might expect, there is significant variability in plant oil
compositions, and some oils can cause problems for impaired skin

CT1702_Research_Steventon_fcx.indd 16 1/30/17 10:34 AM

The affinity between plant oil components and
skin lipids determines the extent of
their penetration and clinical effects on
skin barrier function.
barriers. Plant oils consist of triglycerides and This is followed by perturbation of the palmitic
small amounts of free fatty acids, which are known acid-enriched domains. At higher levels of oleic
to disrupt skin barrier function. For example, oleic acid, a disruption in skin lipid domain separation
acid, an unsaturated fatty acid and a transdermal isobserved.2
penetration enhancer, can disturb epidermal bar- Oleic acid increases water loss and substance
rier function in children with eczema. Eczema is a penetration 24 hr after a single application in
chronic skin condition characterized by defects in a dose-dependent manner, as shown clinical
the skin barrier function and the impaired ability research by Johnson & Johnson. Oleic acid can
of skin to hold water, which causes dryness. Such a permeate deep into the skin, reaching the dermal/
detriment from this ingredient could be extended epidermal junction.
to all skin types with weak barrier functioning, The affinity between plant oil components
in those who are genetically predisposed or those and skin lipids determines the extent of their
afflicted by external stressors. penetration and clinically measurable effects on
Oleic and palmitoleic acids, present in plant skin barrier function.3 However, following is a
oils such as olive and grape seed, have been brief review of several plant oils and some of their
shown to induce epidermal hyperplasia, clinically reported effects in skin.
manifesting as scaly skin and abnormal follicular
keratinization, which is implicated in acne.1 Hydration: Seabuckthorn
In the lab, molecular interactions have been The effectiveness of any plant oil depends on
shown between oleic acid and model stratum its composition, the skin type on which it is used,
corneum lipids consisting of ceramide, choles- the targeted tissue and finally, the concentration.
terol and palmitic acid. Lower concentrations Thus, despite the presence of palmitoleic acid in
of oleic acid preferentially mix with and disrupt seabuckthorn extract, this oil has been shown to
the order of the ceramide-enriched domains. have a positive effect on skin conditions in healthy
Asian men. When applied as an emulsion over 84
days, seabuckthorn extract (5%) improved skin
hydration and skin barrier function.4
Anti-aging: Camellia
Camellia japonica oil has been reported to have
anti-wrinkle potential inducing type I pro-collagen
The world essential oil market is expected synthesis and inhibiting the activity of matrix
to reach $11.5 billion by 2022, driven by the metalloproteinase in cell culture. Camellia oil also
rising preference for natural products and was shown to improve skin barrier function in
growing popularity of relaxation therapies. Asian skin.5
Barrier Strength: Argan

Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
A recent review deemed plant oils containing
supplements as beneficial to the skin barrier.6 Daily
consumption plus topical application of argan oil
CT1702_Research_Steventon_fcx.indd 17 1/25/17 2:47 PM

Plant oils have risen in the skin care
ranks, not only as ingredients in treatment
products, but as their own product category.
was tested in the challenged skin of postmeno- translated into biological effects simply through
pausal women in Morocco. After a 60-day period, its mechanism of hydrating and occluding the
oral consumption and topical application of argan stratum corneum, from which many benefits
oil led to an improvement in skin barrier function arederived.9
and increased hydration.7
Developing Skin: Exercise
Skin Softness: Coconut and Caution
Mineral Oils It is important to note mainstream academic
The benefits of topical virgin coconut were research from the UK has shown that topical oils
shown in Asian children having mild to moderate on immature baby skin may contribute to the
eczema. Clinical improvements in skin condition, development of childhood atopic eczema.
TEWL and hydration were observed; notably Full-term newborn babies were randomly
superior to that of mineral oil.8 assigned to receive applications of olive oil,
Data also supports the use of mineral oil sunflower oil or no oil twice daily for four weeks,
to improve skin softness and barrier function. stratified by family history of atopic eczema.
Compared with other vegetable oils, mineral oil Babies treated with oils had significantly improved
was most favorable; its physical effects on the skin hydration but significantly less improvement in

lipid lamellae structure. Therefore, until further References
research is conducted, caution should be exercised 1. CosmeticsandToiletries.com/research/biology/199897981.
html (Accessed Jan 19, 2017)
when recommending oils for neonatal skin.10
2. GL Mao et al, Oleic acid disorders stratum corneum lipids
In relation, in Germany, the effect of sun- in Langmuir monolayers, Langmuir 29(15) 4857-65 (Apr 16,
flower seed oil on skin barrier development in 2013)
premature infants was related to a delay in skin 3. M Correa et al, Molecular interactions of plant oil compo-
nents with stratum corneum lipids correlate with clinical
barriermaturation.11
measures of skin barrier function, Exp Dermatol (1) 39-44
(Jan 23, 2014)
Acne Treatment-induced 4. BA Khan and N Akhtar, Hippophae rhamnoides oil-in-water
Dryness: Evening Primrose (O/W) emulsion improves barrier function in healthy human
subjects, Pak J Pharm Sci (6)1919-22 (Nov 27, 2014)
In acne, abnormal keratinization of the follicles 5. E Jung et al, Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human
is one of the first steps in comedone formation, type I procollagen production and skin barrier function, J
Ethnopharmacol 112(1) 127-31 (May 30, 2007)
which suggests an impaired skin barrier.12 Teen-
6. CosmeticsandToiletries.com/formulating/category/
age boys, with or without acne afflictions, were nutricosmetics/A-Great-Barrier-Enhanced-A-Review-
monitored over the course of one year, month of-Oral-PUFA-Supplements-for-Skin-390751311.html
by month. Their sebum production in terms of (Accessed Jan 19, 2017)
7. researchgate.net/publication/270675314_Skin_hydra-
skin oiliness was found to be lowest in the winter
tion_in_postmenopausal_women_Argan_oil_benefit_with_
and highest in the autumn. However, skin barrier oral_andor_topical_use (Accessed Jan 19, 2017)
disruption was high across all seasons. Evidence 8. MT Evangelista, F Abad-Casintahan and L Lopez-Villafuerte,
for seasonality, with lower lipid production and The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index,
transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to
reduced barrier function during the winter, thus moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-
calls for a considerate approach when using plant blind, clinical trial, Int J Dermatol 53(1) 100-8 (Jan 2014)
oils topically in skin prone to acne.13 9. AV Rawlings and KJ Lombard, A review on the extensive
skin benefits of mineral oil, Int J Cosmet Sci (6)511-8 (Dec
Plant oils can, however, help the dryness caused 2012)
by acne treatments. Dermatologists have observed 10. AL Cooke, Olive oil, sunflower oil or no oil for baby dry
adverse effects from the oral acne drug isotreti- skin or massage: A pilot, assessor-blinded, randomized
noin, including both inflammation and dryness controlled trial (the Oil in Baby SkincaRE [OBSeRvE] Study),
Acta Derm Venereol 96(3) 323-30 (Mar 2016)
of the upper lip skin. Evening primrose oil has
11. V Kanti et al, Influence of sunflower seed oil on the skin
therefore been suggested to benefit acne patients barrier function of preterm infants: A randomized controlled
based on its ability to improve skin hydration and trial, Dermatology 229(3) 230-9 (2014)
barrier function in healthy skin and eczema. 12. A Yamamoto, K Takenouchi and M Ito, Impaired water
barrier function in Acne vulgaris, Arch Dermatol Res 287(2)
In a study of Asian volunteers having moderate 214-8 (1995)
acne, all were treated with isotretinoin and some 13. K Meyer et al, Evaluation of seasonal changes in facial skin
received oral capsules of evening primrose oil for with and without acne, J Drugs Dermatol (6) 593-601 (Jun
2015)
eight weeks in addition to topical evening prim-
14. KY Park et al, The effect of evening primrose oil for the
rose oil treatments. Barrier function of the lip was prevention of xerotic cheilitis in acne patients being treated
disrupted during isotretinoin treatment but oral oil with isotretinoin: A pilot study, Ann Dermatol 26(6) 706-12
application diminished this dryness. As the drug (Dec 2014)
reduced acne lesions in both groups, the addition

of oral evening primrose oil improved the skin of
C&T Online
acneic patients.14
Find related content at
Follow the Research www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Advances in research regarding the effects,

both good and bad, of plant oils in different skin
types are ongoing. This emphasizes the need to
follow new research, in order to understand the C&T Webcasts
day-to-day as well as seasonal implications for Find current and upcoming webcasts at
consumers. www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Research | C&T
KEY POINTS
The cosmetics industry is turning to
microorganisms to find stable, sustainable
ways to manufacture biologically
derivedmolecules.
This article reviews recent microbiological
advances and ingredients for cosmetics and
personal care products.
Moving Toward
Microbes
Reproduction
New tools for DNA sequencing and microbiology are enabling researchers in English
to identify or anystrains
microbial other language of properties.
with valuable
CT1702_Research_Agapakis_fcx.indd 20 1/25/17 2:42 PM

Bio-engineering a
New Cosmetic Reality
Christina Agapakis, Kit McDonnell and Jason Kakoyiannis

Ginkgo Bioworks, Boston
Microbiological Sourcing
The cosmetics industry is turning to micro-
organisms to find stabler, more sustainable ways
T
of manufacturing biologically derived molecules.
New tools for DNA sequencing and microbiology
are enabling researchers to identify microbial
strains with valuable properties. Advances in
DNA synthesis and genetic engineering also are
he cosmetics industry has enabling the design of custom microbes for appli-
always looked to biology cation across cosmetics and personal care. The
for innovative new ingredi- cosmetics industry was one of the first to explore
entsfunctional bioactives, the potential of biotechnology for the identifica-
and vibrant fragrances and tion and production of active ingredients. Today,
botanicals. More recently, the industry continues to bet on biology as tech-
cosmetic chemists and product developers have nology evolves, opening up previously impossible
sought unconventional actives from unexpected avenues of research and development.
organisms. As a result, donkey milk, pig collagen, These new avenues are driven by advances
bee venom, snail slime, enzymes and extracts in tools to read and write DNA. Genes that can
from animal tissues, plants, seaweed, fungi and encode enzymes and other proteins with valu-
even human cells all have found their way into able cosmetic activities are being sequenced
cosmetic products. This article reviews recent at an unprecedented high speed and low cost.
microbiological advances and ingredients for These sequences can then be readily synthesized,
cosmetics and personal care products. re-writing DNA so it can be inserted into the
Vol. 132, No.

Reproduction 2 | February
in English 2017 of all or part of this article is strictly
or any other language prohibited. 2017 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries | 21

Today, the industry continues to bet on
biology as technology evolves and opens up
previously impossible avenues of research
and development.
genomes of yeasts and other microbes. Once Hyaluronic acid: A crucial molecule for the
engineered, these microbes use the new genes health of our skin and cartilage, hyaluronic acid
to produce valuable compounds as they grow in (see Figure 1) has become a valuable product in
a microbrewery, similar to beer or winemaking. industrial, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applica-
These compounds, known as cultured ingredients,1 tions. The commercial production of hyaluronic
can then be extracted from the yeast and used acid once involved extraction from a biological
informulations. sourcetraditionally animal tissues such as
rooster combs, the vitreous humor or synovial
Culturing fluid from cattle, or even human umbilical cords.
Cosmetic Ingredients Extraction from these tissues was difficult, expen-
Due to their tightly controlled production, sive, low-yield and prone to contamination.2
cultured ingredients can provide a more transpar- Bacteria from the genus Streptococcus also
ent, reliable, economical and renewable source produce hyaluronic acid using genes that are
for cosmetic formulas than extracts from animal remarkably similar to those found in animal cells.
or plant sources. They also can be produced with This similarity indicates the gene was likely trans-
fewer contaminants and any other by-products ferred naturally from an animal to the bacteria
originating from animal or agricultural sources. sometime in the past. Because of this similarity,
Additionally, for many ingredients where chemical hyaluronic acid produced by bacteria is compatible
synthesis of optically pure products is difficult or for human applications.
impossible, biologically sourced ingredients from However, Streptococci are difficult and
engineered microorganisms allow for the efficient expensive to grow in culture and can be human
sourcing of biocompatible products. pathogens. Transferring the hyaluronic acid
synthase genes from Streptococci to other bacteria
that are GRAS and better-suited for commercial
production, such as Bacillus subtilis, has allowed
for the bacterial production of safe, high purity
As the number of natural and organic brands hyaluronic acid.3, 4 Today, the costs of high purity
increases, competition is increasing as well. hyaluronic acid are rapidly decreasing as a result of
Although being natural is a great door-opener, new, fermentation-derived production processes.
there should be more to a brands story. Ceramides and sphingosines: The story is
similar for ceramides (see Figure 2) and the
related class of sphingosines. These waxy, lipid
molecules play an important role in cell mem-
(www.GCImagazine.com) branes and have long been used in cosmetics for
their emollient properties and ability to strengthen
the skin barrier. Like hyaluronic acid, ceramides

Figure 1. Hyaluronic acid
were traditionally extracted from animal tissue chemistry as those produced by the skin. Sourcing
by-products of slaughterhouses. Fears about from a biological process, ideally one that pro-
infectious contaminants have led to their sourc- duces a human skin-compatible molecule, is key
ing from plant tissues, where low yields make the to accessing the potential of this valuable class of
processinefficient. molecules.
Chemical synthesis also is not a suitable To address these production issues, yeasts like
alternative, since producing ceramides this way Saccharomyces cerevisiae5 and Wickerhamomyces
results in a racemic mixture. For use in cosmetic ciferrii6 have been deployed to produce ceramides
products, ceramides must have the same stereo- for commercial cosmetic use. Wild yeasts already
produce skin-biocompat-
ible ceramides with genes
that are highly similar to
those found in humans,
and in higher yields than
what plants can produce.
Modifications to
optimize these processes
also have been identified.
For example, yeast culture
conditions can be changed
to boost yields during
fermentation.5 Metabolic
engineering can delete
yeast enzymes such as
sphingolipid hydroxylases
that degrade ceramide
pathway intermediates and
limit the ultimate yield.7
Figure 2. Ceramide Further recombinant
expression of human genes

Figure 3. Biosurfactant
in yeast can also modify the ceramide molecule in bacteria Pseudomonas aurignosa and a number
biologically relevant ways.7 of yeasts impart benefits in titer, fermentation
Surfactants: Bacteria, yeasts and fungi also efficiency, and extraction and ease of downstream
naturally produce lipid-based surfactant molecules processing,respectively.9
(see Figure 3) that, when excreted by the cell,
reduce surface tension and act as antimicrobials. Squalane and Beyond
These biosurfactants have garnered significant For all the ingredients discussed thus far,
attention in recent years for their environmental wild microbial sources already exist. In these
compatibility as well as low toxicity and skin cases, genetic engineering is useful for boosting
irritation potential. Like traditional surfactants, production in the natural host, or transferring
biosurfactants are amphiphilic detergents that can the pathways to a safer or more tractable host
provide emulsifying, solubilizing and foaming organism. But microbes can also be engineered to
effects in cosmetic formulations. They therefore produce compounds they never evolved to make.
offer an alternative to petrochemically sourced Entirely new enzyme pathways can be built in
surfactants, which are ubiquitous in personal microorganisms by stitching together the genes
careproducts.8 encoding each enzymatic step. The explosion
Biosurfactants are anticipated to offer more in DNA sequencing has allowed researchers to
sustainable options than traditional surfac- identify sometimes thousands of enzyme variants
tants, including in their production methods, responsible for producing the enormous diversity
improved properties and less harsh formula- of plant metabolites. These genetic variants can be
tions.8 Rhamnolipids and sophorolipids are good resynthesized and transformed into the genomes
examples and especially important because their of microorganisms where they can function
biosynthesis is well-understood. Their recombi- to produce new molecules. With decreasing
nant production and natural production by the costs of DNA synthesis and automated tools for

A quiet revolution is
brewing, changing
our understanding
of ourselves and
our relationship
to hygiene and
personal care.
engineering and analyzing cells, more complex pathway of plants, and produce high concentra-
biochemistry can be explored and engineered into tions of -farnesene when grown in fermentation.
microorganisms for the production of cultured -farnesene is a precursor to squalene in vivo
ingredients. and can be readily transformed to squalene, and
One such example for cosmetic ingredients subsequently squalane, after its extraction from the
is cultured squalane. Traditionally derived from yeast cells.
shark liver, squalane (see Figure 4) is a valuable Notably, the isoprenoid pathway also is a
cosmetic ingredient celebrated for its emollient precursor to a large number of other commercially
properties, and one company has developed a relevant molecules, from fragrance ingredients such
renewable source of squalane from sugarcane as sandalwood or patchouli oil, to pharmaceuticals
in bioengineered yeasts.10 The yeast strains are like the anti-malarial drug artemisinin and cosmetic
engineered with enzymes from the isoprenoid actives that are difficult to biologically produce at
Figure 4. Squalane

Microbe-centric products are leading the charge in helping us to consider microbes as friends to be nurtured.
economically significant and sustainable quantities However, researchers face a number of hurdles
today, such as cedrol, totarol or forskolin. to make this technique a scalable source for target
For botanical actives found in plants, the compounds. The process of re-growing functional
options for commercial scale production are plant tissues from cells is challenging because each
varied. The plants can be domesticated and plant initially requires unique nutrient conditions
carefully cultivated, harvested after months or for inducing growth, and again for target com-
even years, and the active molecule purified. On pound synthesis. Identifying the relevant genes
the other hand, plant tissue culture, pioneered and culturing these target compounds through
for pharmaceutical development and cautiously engineered microbial fermentation eclipses the
adopted for cosmetics, has also emerged as a research and development necessary for initial
convenient method for extracting functional plant cell growth to focus on production
compounds by eliminating dependencies upon scalability.11, 12
geography, seasonality and cultivation practices
while promoting sustainable practices. This Rethinking Skin
process fosters the production of ingredients in a As microbes are revolutionizing how cosmetic
sterile, controlled and sustainable environment, ingredients are produced, a quiet revolution
free of residualagrochemicals. is brewing, changing how we understand our-

selves and our relationship with hygiene and References
personal care products. This revolution is a new 1. RP Shetty, Cultured ingredients arrive, Perfumer & Flavorist
38 3437 (2013)
understanding of the microbiome, including the
2. CG Boeriu, J Springer, FK Kooy, LAM van den Broek and G
thousands of microbial species thriving in and Eggink, Production methods for hyaluronan, Intl J Carbohy-
on our bodies, which has reorganized our under- drate Chem, article ID 624967, 14 pages (2013)
standing of skin.13 No longer a highly guarded 3. B Widner et al, Hyaluronic acid production in Bacillus
subtilis, App and Envt Microbio 71.7 37473752 (2005)
border, separating the human from assault of
4. J Davies De Oliveira et al, Genetic basis for hyper
the outside world, the skin is being recast as an production of hyaluronic acid in natural and engineered
ecosystem in its own right. microorganisms, Microbial Cell Factories 15 119 (2016)
Like macroscopic ecosystems, the microbiome 5. KH Kwun et al, Production of ceramide with Saccharomy-
finds strength in biodiversity. Consistently, mea- ces cerevisiae, Appl Biochem Biotechnol 133(3) 203-10
(Jun 2006)
sures of healthy skin are correlated with a more
6. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/repair/
diverse microbial population.14 Nurturing diverse Evonik-Ferments-Yeast-for-Alternative-Ceramide-Produc-
populations means rethinking cosmetic formulation-187128741.html (accessed Jan 18, 2017)
tions from the ground up to consider safety not 7. S Murakami et al, Producing human ceramide-NS by meta-
bolic engineering using yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae,
only to human cells, but also to microbial cells. Scientific Reports 5 16319 (2015)
The recent U.S. Food and Drug Administration 8. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-
ruling against antimicrobial compounds such as 2494.2009.00493.x/epdf (accessed Jan 18, 2017)
triclosan in hand soaps is an important first step.15 9. T Tiso, A Germer, B Kpper, R Wichmann and LM Blank,
Methods for recombinant rhamnolipid production, Hydro-
But compounds with antimicrobial properties carbon and Lipid Microbiology Protocols 65-94 (2015)
are used throughout formulations, and little is 10. D McPhee, A Pin, L Kizer and L Perelman, Deriving renew-
known about how common ingredients affect our able squalane from sugarcane, Cosm & Toil 129(6) (2014)
microbial companions. 11. A Barbulova, F Apone and G Colucci, Plant cell cultures
as source of cosmetic active ingredients, Cosmetics 1(2)
New microbe-centric products are leading 94-104 (2014)
the charge in helping cosmetics formulators and 12. C Schrch, Potential of plant cells in culture for cosmetic
consumers consider microbes as friends to be application, Phytochemistry Reviews 7(3) 599-605 (2008)
nurtured, rather than germs to be eliminated. 13. The Human Microbiome Project Consortium, Structure,
These and other probiotic cosmetics, coupled function and diversity of the healthy human microbiome,
Nature 486 207-214 (2012)
with a powerful growth in the market for cultured 14. A Salava and A Lauerma, Role of the skin microbiome in
ingredients, point to a very microbial future for atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Translational Allergy 4:33
cosmetics; where bioactives are produced by (2014)
microbes or are living bacteria themselves, benefit- 15. fda.gov/NewsEvents/Newsroom/PressAnnouncements/

ucm517478.htm (Accessed Jan 18, 2017)
ing both the human and microbial part of our skin.
Conclusion
Microbes are playing an increased role in our
foods, with fermented products like yogurt and
kombucha growing in popularity. New research
C&T Webcasts
about the microbiome is impacting how we think
Find current and upcoming webcasts at
of our health and hygiene, and is beginning to www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
change the way we treat infections and formulate
personal care products. Microbes also are chang-
ing our manufacturing technologies, with a
growing number of products made via microbial
fermentation rather than extraction or chemical
synthesis. As we look to the future, there is great C&T Daily Newsletter
potential for microbes to impact how we produce
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
and formulate cosmeticsfrom ingredients pro- delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
duced in culture, to probiotics and living actives.
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter

Research | C&T
KEY POINTS
Coffee, tomato, olive and citrus waste have
a negative impact on the environment and
economy. Recycling this waste could lower
its impact and increase the sustainability of
theseingredients.
Waste from food processing is rich in

healthy compounds that can be recycled
into cosmetic formulations for various
skinbenefits.
Garbage to
Glamour Recycling Food by-products for Skin Care
Giorgio DellAcqua, Ph.D.

Dell'Acqua Consulting
Jersey City, NJ
T here is rediscovered interest in understanding the

potential for recycling industrially processed food
waste to create new safe and effective products for
other applications; e.g., energy, pharma, nutra-
ceuticals and cosmetics, to name the top few.1 An
increase in food processing in the last 50 years
has slowly and consistently generated a large amount of non-edible
by-products, including fruit and vegetable peels, seeds and leaves.
Additionally, disposing of waste water from food processing in a man-
ner that avoids environmental pollution is a management issue.2

CT1702_Research_DellAcqua_fcx.indd 28 1/27/17 11:05 AM

Get the latest
color trend updates,

along with a directory of
ingredients and
formulas
for free when

you download the
Color Formulary and
Directory e-book!
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/ColorEbook2016
CT1606_ColorFormularyAd.indd 1 8/10/16 1:57 PM

Increasing consumption is associated with
limited raw material options, which pushes
the sustainability print of a
raw material to the edge.
The idea of being able to use every part of As an example, the cosmetic industry could
a raw material without discarding any of its extract polyphenol-rich materials from parts of
elements is not new. In 1993, Paul Hawken cited the fruit not used by the food industry. These
in his controversial and revolutionary book, plant ingredients provide antioxidant benefits.
Ecology of Commerce, examples of produc- Companies producing apple juice that remove
tion integration in manufacturing. He described the apple skin and seeds could sell these materials
industrial hubs created around specific raw to companies producing polyphenol-rich apple
materials and their by-products to use every part extracts for cosmetic, cosmeceutical, nutraceuti-
of materials without waste.3 cal or pharma applications. In the early 2000s,
Hawken called this process industrial ecology, research exploded in this area at different univer-
where pollution is eliminated by tailoring manu- sities funded by local governments all over the
facturing by-products so that they become the world. The point is to understand and develop
raw materials of subsequent processes. Different processing protocols to value these wasted by-
industries developing products for diverse mar- product ingredients.
kets created local consortiums, where by-products A recent example is the BioWaste program
were recycled in different finished goods. funded by the European Commission Department
In developed countries, recycling ingredients of Agriculture. This program includes projects
is not an option anymore; its an obligation. such as Apopros and Transbio. Apopros aims to
Increasing consumption is associated with limited develop eco-efficient, bio-mechanical process-
raw material options, which pushes the sustaining solutions to enrich intermediate fractions
ability print of a raw material to the edge. Indeed, from industrial high protein and oil-containing
if different industries were to leverage the use of process residues originating from agriculture sub-
a raw material, it would limit the need to source products. Transbio is focused on developing new
the same raw material multiple times and it would products from the fruit and vegetable processing
increase the sustainability of it. industry using environmentally friendly biotech-
nology solutions.4
By-products including seeds, stems, leaves
and skinsnot used pulpare usually discarded.
"Ethical, sustainable brands can generate The total amount of these by-products can be as
consumer goodwill and consumer loyalty, little as 3% to as high as 60% of the total plant
according to a recent analysis from Mintel. food, e.g., in the case of artichoke.5 The challenge
In fact, 43% of generation Z consumers are in recovering these by-products is finding the
willing to pay a premium for products from best and most environmentally friendly extrac-
ethical, sustainable brands and to promote tion technique possible to achieve the maximum
them on social media." yield without compromising the stability of the
Jeb Gleason-Allured extract and its components. Analytical chemistry
of the waste and procedures to valorize it would
thenfollow.
The chemical composition of a by-product
is similar to its edible parts,6 so it did not take

long to discover that most of the discarded natural
by-products have a similar, if not higher, health value
than their edible processed counterparts.7,8 Research
on the properties of by-products and their applications
has been published; some is presented here. Examples
of food processing waste for cosmetics is given for
coffee, tomato, olive and citrus. These ingredients have
significant consumption worldwide, therefore their
waste has a negative impact on the environment and
economy. The possibility to recycle this waste could
lower this impact and increase the sustainability of
these ingredients.
Coffee Waste
Coffee is one of the world's most popular drinks
and it has a strong commercial value. It is only second
to petroleum as the most traded commodity world-
wide.9 The coffee industry generates a hefty amount
of waste, including unused coffee beans, spent coffee
grounds and silver skin/husks.5
Like other food waste,10 spent coffee grounds were
investigated to produce energy.11, 12 In some cases,
wet coffee processing waste is not properly disposed,
causing serious environmental and health issues.
Therefore, its conversion into bio-fuel would not only
help the economy, but also prevent damage to the
environment and reduce health problems.13
To investigate the use of coffee waste for medicinal
and cosmetic purposes, several labs have performed
analytical studies to identify the major components
in unused coffee beans, spent coffee grounds and
silver skin/husks. A series of healthy molecules was
found, particularly phenols and polyphenols such as
caffeoylquinic acids, caffeic acid and ferulic acid.14-17
Additionally, the waste contained 15% of oil and is
rich in linoleic acid17, 18 and phytosterols.17
Further studies have demonstrated the strong
biological activity of these molecules, particularly
as antioxidants.17, 19 Subsequently, the antioxidant
properties of coffee waste extract have been assessed:
in vitro, to protect against accelerated aging;20 in vivo,
in animal models, to protect against UVB, limit photo-
aging and/or stimulate skin repair;21, 22 and clinically,
in a finished product, to increase skin hydration.23
Tomato Waste
About one-fourth of the worlds industrial tomato
processing is for tomato paste, and peeled and
unpeeled tomatoes either chopped or in purees, juices,
ketchup, soups, etc.5, 24 From this, tomato by-products
including unused pulp, skin and seeds are produced.

Tomato pomace is a popular by-product rich in The relatively low cost of phenols from olive
tomato skin and water. It represents 4% of the by-products makes it worth considering recover-
fruit weight.24 ing them from environment, which will further
Although apart from water the main com- decrease toxic concentrations of waste. This could
ponents of tomato pomace are fibers (60% of also sustainably stimulate economy by recovering
its dry weight), pomace also contains proteins, healthy phenols and concentrating them to sell for
pectins, fat, minerals and healthy antioxidants, other applications.
including the carotenoid lycopene.25, 26 Com- A complete analysis of the polyphenols
mercially interesting ingredients such as proteins, recovered from olive fruit waste identified:
pectins, antioxidant moleculese.g., caffeic acid, hydroxytyrosol, tyrosol, caffeic acid, vanillic acid,
ferulic acid, chlorogenic acids, quercetin-3--O- verbascoside, oleuropein, ferulic acid and p-cou-
glycoside, quercetin and the aforementioned maric acid.39 These polyphenols were studied for
lycopenehave been recovered from the pomace their biological properties, especially oleuropein
through different means;26-29 albeit with a series and hydroxytyrosol. They are strong antioxi-
of challenges, especially for an unstable material dants39, 40 and their activity is often associated with
such as lycopene.26 the healthy benefits of the Mediterranean diet.41
Ingredients extracted from tomato waste Further research has proven these polyphenols
demonstrate biological activity as antioxidants; in to inhibit cancer cell proliferation and protect
vitro, they also modulate cell growth and impart DNA from oxidative damage.42 A fraction isolated
anti-mutagenic properties.29, 30 Another interest- from olive mill waste water, containing mainly
ing application of protein-rich tomato waste is its hydroxytyrosol, verbascoside and tyrosol, also
fermentation into amino acids and peptides with completely inhibited the growth of Gram-positive
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities.31 and Gram-negative bacteria.43 Additional studies
Investigations have identified the anti-inflamma- have shown the antimicrobial potency of phenol-
tory properties come from naringenin-chalcone rich olive pomace powder,44 suggesting the use
in the tomato skin. This molecule also was shown of olive oil production by-products for natural
to effectively reduce edema in animal models.32 preservation.
Finally, polyphenols from olive waste were
Olive Waste tested on skin and showed a series of beneficial
The production of olive oil also generates anti-aging effects, including the stimulation of
massive amounts of waste, including olive oil mill collagen production, antioxidant activity and the
waste water (OMWW), olive pomace and filter inhibition of melanogenesis.45, 46 In conclusion, it
cake. The Mediterranean region produces 95% of is possible to recycle olive waste and its phenolic
the worlds olive oil. Here, OMWW alone repre- content to reduce environmental impact, while
sents more than 30 million cubic meters of waste using it for applications in human health and
worldwide for just two to three months of olive skincare.
oilproduction.33
Olive oil waste is heavily rich in polyphe- Citrus Waste
nols.34,35 In fact, during olive oil production, only Citrus production worldwide totaled 135
2% of the total phenols of olive fruit partition million tons in 2013. This included mandarin,
in the oil, while most phenols partition in the lemon/lime and grapefruit, representing 28.6, 15.1
waste53% in the OMWW and 45% in the solid and 8.4 million tons, respectively.47 The edible part
pomace. This is due to the olive fruit phenols represents around 44% of this total; the remain-
being more water-soluble.36 Traditionally, the ing, non-edible 66% consists mainly of peel.5 The
waste is discarded in soil or marine water, build- waste therefore represents a considerable volume,
ing up toxic concentrations of polyphenols from and being mostly solid, it is difficult to eliminate
0.118 g/L. Furthermore, the presence of ammo- or recycle so it is used mostly as cattle food.
nium and phosphorus in the waste also affect the Recent investigations have attempted to use
bio-system, inhibiting plant and microorganism citrus waste peel as a possible biofuel, after its
growth.37, 38 decomposition at high temperatures.48 Researchers

A common approach to neutralizing toxic
compounds that also transforms food waste
into useful compounds, e.g., polysaccharides
and phenolic compounds, is to incubate them
with microorganisms.
in Florida also have developed systems to recover against Gram-negative bacteria.56 This suggests
several by-products from the same citrus peel; using citrus peel extract as a preservative.
this waste can be fermented to produce ethanol Additionally, several studies have shown
with essential oil D-limonene obtained as the the capacity of citrus waste to protect or inhibit
co-product.49 a series of mechanisms in skin models. In
Citrus waste including peel, molasses, seeds particular, an orange peel extract rich in fla-
and leaves have been found to contain flavonoids, vonoids protected skin cells from UV-induced
carotenoids, phenolic compounds, vitamin E, inflammation.57 Also, citrus waste-derived
phytosterols and essential oils.50-54 Many of these nobiletin inhibited MMP-9 activity in human
components have strong antioxidant activi- dermalfibroblasts.58
ties,53-55 along with other biological properties. Researchers in Korea assessed mandarin peel
Peel extract, for example, has shown immune- waste from juice processing and found it exhibited
stimulating activity in T lymphocytes.55 And antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis and anti-inflam-
compared with other peel extracts, citrus also matory activities.59 The same researchers evaluated
has the strongest antimicrobial activity, especially extract from a waste-derived citrus pressed cake

Recycling food waste would be a more sustainable approach to using raw materials while bringing added value to the cosmetics industry.
and found that it blocked specific melanogenesis Pros and Cons of

pathways.60 Citrus peel extracts have also shown Recycled Skin Care
anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity in vitro, A lack of resources and the need for sustain-
suggesting applications for anti-aging skin care.61 able processes is becoming todays reality more
Further, animal models have shown sig- and more. And the technology is available to
nificant anti-inflammatory effects in murine eliminate waste derived from industrially pro-
dermal inflammation and wound-healing by the cessed food to reduce its environmental impact
orange-peel derived terpene d-Limonene and its and recycle valuable materials. But the reality is,
metabolite perillyl alcohol.62 In conclusion, citrus this comes at a cost.
waste derivatives are promising ingredients for The waste must be collected and processed
skin care, protection and repair products. from its final use, then treated, transformed and/

or extracted. And in the cases of coffee and olive, 5. Barbulova A, Colucci G, Apone F. New trends in cosmet-
ics: by-products of plant origin and their potential use as
the waste obtained after processing can contain cosmetic active ingredients. Cosmetics 2:82-92, 2015
toxic compounds derived from oxidation; such as 6. Mullen W, Nemzer B, Stalmach A, Ali S, Combet E. Poly-
phytosterol-oxidized products (POP) from coffee phenolic and hydroxycinnamate contents of whole coffee
fruits from China, India, and Mexico. Agric Food Chem
silverskins17 or olive pruning residues (OPR) 61(22):5298-309, 2013
from olive processing.63 These waste derivatives 7. Ribeiro da Silva LM, Teixeira de Figueiredo EA, Silva Ricardo
would need to be neutralized or eliminated before NM, Pinto Vieira IG, Wilane de Figueiredo R, Brasil IM,
recycling the waste for human applications. One Gomes CL. Quantification of bioactive compounds in pulps
and by-products of tropical fruits from Brazil. Food Chem
common approach to neutralizing toxic com- 143:398-404, 2014
poundswhich also transforms food waste into 8. Ilahy R, Piro G, Tlili I, Riahi A, Sihem R, Ouerghi I, Hdider
useful compounds such as polysaccharides and C, Lenucci MS. Fractionate analysis of the phytochemical
composition and antioxidant activities in advanced breeding
phenolic compoundsis to incubate them with lines of high-lycopene tomatoes. Food Funct 7(1):574-83,
microorganisms.63, 64 2016
The bioactive compounds also must be 9. https://www.fas.usda.gov/commodities/coffee
extracted and concentrated, and to do so, some 10. Akbas MY, Stark BC. Recent trends in bioethanol produc-
tion from food processing byproducts. J Ind Microbiol
techniques require specific equipment, which can Biotechnol 43(11):1593-1609, 2016
be costly.65 Although recent investigations have 11. Kondamudi N, Mohapatra SK, Misra M. Spent coffee
highlighted a cost advantage of extracting bioac- grounds as a versatile source of green energy. J Agric Food
tive compounds from processed food waste,66 it is Chem 56(24):11757-60, 2008
12. Battista F, Fino D, Mancini G. Optimization of biogas
important to assess the same cost for the cosmetic
production from coffee production waste. Bioresour Technol
industry, especially considering the need for pure 200:884-90, 2016
molecules or concentrated bio-active fractions. 13. Woldesenbet AG, Woldeyes B, Chandravanshi BS. Bio-
It is worth noting that in this review, the ethanol production from wet coffee processing waste in
Ethiopia. Springerplus 5(1):1903, 2016
ingredients identified for skin applications have
14. Murthy S, Naidu M. Sustainable management of coffee
mostly included phenolic compounds. However, industry by-products and value additionA review. Resour
other compounds from food processing waste Conserv Recycl 66: 4558, 2012
include polysaccharides such as cellulose, pectins, 15. Monente C, Ludwig IA, Irigoyen A, De Pea MP, Cid C.
Assessment of total (free and bound) phenolic compounds
oligosaccharides, etc.67, 68 These entities also in spent coffee extracts. J Agric Food Chem 63(17):4327-
exhibit antioxidant activity68, 69 and can function 34, 2015
as prebiotics for skin care applications.69, 70 16. Bravo J, Juniz I, Monente C, Caemmerer B, Kroh LW, De
Pea MP, Cid C. Evaluation of spent coffee obtained from
In conclusion, waste from food processing is
the most common coffeemakers as a source of hydrophilic
rich in healthy compounds that can be recovered bioactive compounds. J Agric Food Chem 60(51):12565-
and used into cosmetic formulations for a series 73, 2012
of skin benefits. Recycling this waste would be a 17. Toschi TG, Cardenia V, Bonaga G, Mandrioli M, Rodri-
guez-Estrada MT. Coffee silverskin: characterization,
more sustainable approach to using raw materials, possible uses, and safety aspects. J Agric Food Chem
reducing the costs of disposal and reducing envi- 62(44):10836-44, 2014
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Marova I. Utilization of oil extracted from spent coffee
the cosmetics industry. grounds for sustainable production of polyhydroxyalkano-
ates. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 98(13):5883-90, 2014
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Research | C&T
KEY POINTS
Health care is seeing a development of more
integrative approaches to employ CIM practices.
People have adopted the idea of using natural

products and therapies as these are perceived
as safer treatments.
Integrative Medicine
A Dermatological View
and Research
Cosmetics Can Lead the Way
T
Raja K. Sivamani, M.D., University of California, Davis
he demand for natural products and complementary
Hadar Lev-Tov, M.D.,
and integrative medicine (CIM), also referred to as
University of Miami and Dermveda, Inc.
alternative medicine, is significant. An estimated
Joseph Alban and Jason Derico, Dermveda, Inc.
$37 billion was spent on CIM in 2007, with one-
Howard I. Maibach, M.D., University of California, San
third of adults in the United States routinely using
Francisco
it.1 Within dermatology and skin care, the use of
CIM may even be higher.2
People have gravitated toward the use of natural products and
therapies as these are perceived as safer, especially those coming from
traditions that have delivered skin care treatments for millennia. For

CT1702_Research_Dermview_fcx.indd 38 1/25/17 3:49 PM

Bridging
Health and Wellness
Although obesity and diabetes rates have
grown steadily, there is an increase in demand
for health and wellness solutions. This is readily
apparent to anyone who walks through a grocery
store today. Produce sections are larger and have
more variety than they did one to two decades
ago. Even entire aisles are dedicated to natural and
healthy alternatives and selections.
This trend toward natural living also is apparent
to physicians, as patients increasingly ask about
safer, more natural treatment alternatives. Thus, the
current state of health care is shifting from a cau-
tious and hesitant attitude toward CIM, to one that
engages in evidence-based research and develops
clinical standards around integrative methods.
The shift in health care is so significant that
physicians are developing integrative approaches;
clinics and hospitals are employing CIM practi-
tioners; and even emergency rooms are utilizing
CIM practices.4 Countless research projects are
also being developed to evaluate the efficacy of dif-
ferent techniques used in CIM, including wellness
coaching,5 herbs, diet and nutrition, massage and
acupuncture, among others.
Academic centers now recognize the impor-
tance of integrative approaches to health. Many
medical schools offer integrative medical care.6
Some have taken the next step to develop integra-
tive medical facilities serving both as dedicated
sites for integrative medicine, and as administra-
tive bodies to promote interdisciplinary research.
Examples where CIM formally bridges con-
ventional medicine include the Osher Integrative
y Medicine programs at the University of California,

San Francisco and Harvard Medical School. In
some cases, the interaction transcends medical
example, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) school, such as at the University of Arizona Center
has been practiced for centuries. Industry for Integrative Medicine, which offers specific
knowledge about TCM has been refined through training to students in health-related fields.
empirical observations and clinical testing, and At the University of California, Davis, the
published in the Chinese medical literature. In Foods for Health Institute is composed of mem-
fact, numerous ingredients, such as salicylic acid bers spread across multiple departments with
and cancer therapeutics, come from traditional the goal of bridging research across fields such as
medicinesand there is major potential for nutrition, food science and medicine. The emer-
further developing others for new products and gence of such centers and partnerships signifies
applications.3 This column briefly reviews how integrative medicine is not just a change in the
CIM is, itself, being integrated into the health and publics perception of health care, but also a change
dermatology sectors. in the academic fiber itself.

Countless research projects are being
developed to evaluate the efficacy of different
techniques used in CIM, including
wellness coaching, herbs, diet and nutrition,
massage and acupuncture, among others.
Researching of resources (e.g., NIH funding) have resulted in

more quality research in the field. With a growing
Integrative Medicine focus on patient-centered outcomes, this trend is
With the growing public interest, use and need increasing. As a result, more data is available on
of CIM, the National Institutes of Health (NIH) the utility and safety of alternative approaches,
has dedicated a research center to it. The mission and more randomized control trials (RCTs) of
of this National Center for Complementary and alternative methods are being funded, conducted
Integrative Health (NCCIH, formerly NCCAM) and published.
is to explore the effects, mechanisms and safety For example, Medline shows the number of
of CIM through rigorous scientific inquiry; and randomized controlled trials sponsored by the
with more than $125 million dedicated to CIM NCCIH has steadily increased over the last 15
research, funding agencies clearly are taking years. Systematic reviews are considered the high-
CIMs role in health and well-being seriously.7 est level of evidence to support clinical decisions
Further exploration of integrative medicine because they represent the synergetic synthesis of
and use of traditional medicine may also be a results from several RCTs. As more RCTs become
fruitful and efficient path to discover new ways to available for the use of alternative approaches,
deliver these traditional therapies. For example, systematic reviews of alternative treatments will
there is a long-standing belief in the synergistic be possible, as in the case of Cao et al.10
effects of TCM with multiple herbal prescriptions. Although recent trends are encouraging, epic
Some studies have confirmed this approach,8 gaps still remain between true integration and
although others have not.9 Additional research current practice and research. The current RCTs
may help to uncover the most powerful combina- conducted are, by and large, efficacy studies. That
tions and methods of administration for these is, these studies focus on a single intervention
long-standing medical traditions. at a time and test its effects in an unnaturally
Conducting quality research is challenging controlled environment. Although this is good
given the historical distrust of conventional research, this approach may be obsolete when it
medicine toward alternative approaches. Yet the comes to testing the effects of truly integrative
rising consumer demand and growing availability practices on health outcomes.
Fundamental to the integrative approach is
the deployment of multiple interventions with
Sustainability is a nebulous term, but has the goal of simultaneously affecting multiple
been moving up the publics political and biological systems in the body and the hope
economic agenda as businesses adopt of synergizing towards the overall health of
responsible practices toward the sourcing the individual. One way to address this gap is
and manufacturing of their products. by conducting effectiveness trials that test an
intervention, which may be multi-component,
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry in real-life situations and allowing for all the
(www.GCImagazine.com) inherent biases in this design. The results of such
studies tend to be more applicable in practice; as
in the example of Srikanthan et al.11

Before such studies can be designed, a space 3. N Tandon and SS Yadav, Contributions of Indian Council
of Medical Research (ICMR) in the area of medicinal
for communication between various health related plants/traditional medicine, J Ethnopharmacol 10.1016/j.
disciplines must be created. Such space will allow jep.2016.07.064 (2016) PMID: 27452657
for the development of truly cohesive integrative 4. AS Reinstein et al, Acceptability, adaptation and clinical
outcomes of acupuncture provided in the emergency
medicine interventions, and hopefully will lead to department: A retrospective pilot study, Pain Med 10.1093/
the generation of quality data and outcomes. pm/pnv114 (2016) PMID: 26917627
5. RQ Wolever et al, Advancing a new evidence-based
Progression in Medicine professional in health care: Job task analysis for health and
wellness coaches, BMC Health Serv Res 16 205 (2016)
The future of integrative medicine is promising PMID: 27349746
for both medical and cosmetic dermatology. The 6. DM Eisenberg et al, Establishing an integrative medicine
program within an academic health center: Essential
regulations for cosmetic research are less cumber- considerations, Acad Med 91(9) 1223-1230 (2016) PMID:
some, and the cosmetic and personal care product 27028029
industries are primed to lead the way to integrate 7. https://nccih.nih.gov/about/ataglance (Accessed Jan 10,
2017)
the knowledge from alternative medical fields in 8. C Han and J Guo, Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory
a thoughtful and practical way for practitioners, activity of traditional Chinese herb pairs, Angelica sinensis
industry and consumers alike. and Sophora flavescens, Inflammation 35(3) 913-919 (2012)
PMID: 21976127
References 9. X Zhou et al, Synergistic effects of Chinese herbal medicine:
A comprehensive review of methodology and current
1. J Allen et al, A prospective comparison of bilateral research, Front Pharmacol 7 201 (2016) PMID: 27462269
photoplethysmography versus the ankle-brachial pressure
index for detecting and quantifying lower limb peripheral 10. H Cao et al, Complementary therapies for acne vulgaris,
arterial disease, J Vasc Surg 47(4) 794-802 (2008) PMID: Cochrane Database Syst Rev 1:CD009436 (2015) PMID:
18381141 25597924
2. ET Landis et al, Complementary and alternative medicine 11. A Srikanthan and E Amir, Efficacy-effectiveness gap as an
use in dermatology in the United States, J Altern Comple- obstacle to translating clinical trials to clinical practice, Eur J
ment Med 20(5) 392-398 (2014) PMID: 24517329 Cancer 51(8) 905-906 (2015) PMID: 25857548
CT1702_Research_Dermview_fcx.indd 41 1/30/17 10:40 AM

Formulating | C&T
KEY POINTS
Recent research has focused on natures ways
of protecting living organisms, from plankton
and cyanobacteria to humans, from the sun.
With the proper topical delivery systems,

some of these biomechanisms may prove
beneficial to consumers and marketers.
Safer Solar
Protection Part II
Editors note: This two-part article is controversial. In part I, it reviewed a number of concerns about the safety of traditional sunscreens. Here in part II, the authors
propose new approaches to move past these issues. Whether or not you feel the expressed
Reproduction in English concerns
or any otherarelanguage
valid, this
of article is presented in the spirit of advancing cosmetic science
to provoke thought, and in no way suggests consumers should stop using all or sun
part protection.
of this articleWe inviteprohibited.
is strictly you to engage in this discussion by 132,
Vol. emailing
No.rgrabenhofer@allured.com
2 | February 2017
or commenting on our Cosmetics & Toiletries LinkedIn page. 2017 Allured Business Media.
CT1702_Formulating_GuptaII_fcx.indd 42 1/25/17 4:11 PM

Going Beyond
UV Defense
John Stanek
CoValence Laboratories, Inc., Chandler, AZ USA
Shyam Gupta, Ph.D.
Bioderm Research, Scottsdale, AZ USA
for photoprotective benefits. Sinapoyl malate and

related molecules act through a multistep process
C
involving internal conversion of the initially
photoexcited 1(1)* state along a trans-cis
photoisomerization coordinate. This leads to the
regeneration of the original trans ground-state
isomer or the formation of a stable cis isomer.
onsidering all the A cofactor agent that can convert cis-isomer in
issues and concerns the presence of UV back to its trans-form could
described in part I, potentially provide an effective sunscreen agent
it is worth explor- based on sinapic acid.66
ing how to take Mycosporines: Inspired by the strategies of
sunscreens in a new fish, algae and microorganisms in confined eco-
direction. Recent research has focused on natures systems exposed to UV radiation, mycosporines,
ways of protecting living organisms, from minis- chitosan-bound mycosporines and mycosporine-
cule plankton and cyanobacteria to humans. And like amino acids hold potential for new, safer and
with the proper topical delivery systems, some nature-inspired sunscreen compounds. Myco-
of these biomechanisms may prove beneficial to sporines and mycosporine-like amino acids are
human consumers and marketers. This section secondary metabolites of marine and terrestrial
reviews several. origin (see Figure 3). These water-soluble, UV-
Sinapic acid: Plant-derived sinapic acid (see absorbing compounds are synthesized by a large
Figure 2) and its derivatives have been studied variety of prokaryotic and eukaryotic organisms,
Vol. 132, in
Reproduction No. 2 | or
English February 2017 of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Allured Business Media.
any other language Cosmetics & Toiletries | 43

The combination of nanofibers with
other substances possessing UV-protective
effects may provide enhanced protection
against UVB radiation.
including zooplankton and phytoplankton, in Urocanates: Urocanates and their derivatives

fresh-, salt-water and terrestrial environments.67 also are receiving attention as novel UV-protection
These materials are biocompatible, photo- agents; although they require further safety and
resistant and thermo-resistant, and exhibit efficient efficacy evaluations in formulated products.71 The
absorption of both UVA and UVB radiations.68 human body has its own defense mechanisms
Since they are of a natural and renewable origin, against excessive UV exposure. Besides melanins,
they may prove to be of interest for any future UV urocanic acid (UCA), formed from the action of
protective product development; of course, once histidine ammonia lyase on L-histidine, acts as a
they pass the usual safety and efficacy studies. natural sunscreen agent on skin.
Another example is porphyra-334 from Por- The natural trans form of UCA is converted
phyra yezoensis. This mycosporine-like amino acid into its cis isomer upon exposure to UV, which can
has been studied for the prevention of photoaging. lead to the formation of various peroxide species
Porphyra-334 has been found to suppress reactive via a cascade of biochemical steps (see Figure5).
oxygen species production and the expression of It is therefore of paramount importance to convert
matrix metalloproteinase following UVA irradia- the cis form back to its trans stereochemistry
tion. These results suggest porphyra-334 and the to reap UV protection benefits. This hurdle has
analogous palythine and asterina-330 may also turned interest away from photo-protective
serve as a novel anti-aging agents.69
Scytonemins: Scytonemins are biological
pigments (see Figure 4) synthesized by various
strains of cyanobacteria, including Calothrix and
Lyngbya aestuarii. Scytonemins absorb strongly
and broadly in the UVA and UVB regions. They
recently have been shown to protect cyanobacteria
against damage by UV radiation, although their
exact mechanism is not yet known.70
Thirty-five percent of women surveyed plan to

purchase more all natural beauty products
in the next two years.

(www.GCImagazine.com) Figure 2. Sinapic acid

Figure 3. Mycosporines
urocanates, although metal-doped urocanates photoreceptors have been recognized: DNA and
have been proposed to solve this dilemma, based trans-urocanic acid. Trans-UCA is normally found
on a recently identified metal-binding prowess in the outermost layer of skin and isomerizes to
ofUCA.72 the cis isomer upon exposure to UV. Immunosup-
It is also worthy to note cis-urocanic acid has pressive effects of cis-UCA and UV radiation are
shown anti-inflammatory and anticancer activ- mediated by activation of the 5-HT2A receptor.76
ity.73 This form can inhibit both local and systemic Among topical applications, the immunosup-
resistance to infectious agents.74 UVB impairs the pressive effect of cis-UCA has been translated into
induction of contact hypersensitivity by convert- a practical cream formulation to treat eczema.
ing trans-UCA to cis-UCA within the epidermis. In a clinical trial, cis-UCA cream reduced tran-
In turn, cis-UCA causes the local release of TNF sepidermal water loss both in healthy subjects
alpha, which, by its ability to alter the functional and patients. Eczema area severity index and
program of epidermal Langerhans cells, prevents physicians global assessment also improved. Thus,
the induction of contact hypersensitivity.75 cis-UCA cream both improved the skin barrier
UV is known to induce skin cancer and sup- function and suppressed inflammation in the
press the immune response. To cause this immune human skin.77
suppression, the electromagnetic energy of UV Furthermore, topical cis-UCA, unlike hydro-
must be absorbed by an epidermal photorecep- cortisone and tacrolimus, has been reported
tor and converted into a biological signal. Two an efficient treatment for acute and subacute

Figure 4. Scytonemins
Figure 5. Urocanate formation

skin inflammation, attenuating skin edema and duction of TGF- compared with a control group.
erythema. The mechanism of this property has NF and NC may also impart protective effects to
been linked to cis-UCA, which suppresses the skin; their potential in skin-protective formulations,
Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) signaling pathway especially sunscreens, merits consideration.79
and holds the potential to treat UV-B induced UCA plus chitin: Urocanic acid and chitin
inflammatory defects. Topical drug therapy with nanofibers (NFs) have been used to prepare
cis-UCA may thus provide a safe treatment option urocanic acid chitin NFs (UNFs). Their protective
in inflammatory skin disorders.78 effect against UVB radiation was studied in mice,
Chitin: Chitin is a UV-protective crystalline which were coated with UNFs and irradiated with
structure found in crustacean shells. Alpha-chitin UVB. The treated mice showed markedly lower
is composed of micro fibers, which are made up UVB radiation-induced cutaneous erythema than
of nanofibrils 2-5 nm in diameter and 30 nm in the control. Additionally, sunburn cells were rarely
length and embedded in a protein matrix. Crystal- detected under the test conditions in the epidermis
line nanofibrils can be prepared by acid treatment. of UNFs-treated mice after UVB irradiation. This
The effect of chitin nanofibrils (NF) and combination of NFs with other substances pos-
nanocrystals (NC) on skin using a three- sessing UV-protective effects, such as UCA, may
dimensional skin culture model and Franz cells provide an enhanced protective effect against
has been studied. The application of NF and NC UVBradiation.80
to skin improved the epithelial granular layer and Melanin: There is much to learn from human
increased granular density. Furthermore, NF and bodys own sun protection factors eumelanin and
NC application to the skin resulted in a lower pro- pheomelanin, especially the manner in which
Inspired by strategies of fish, algae and

microorganisms in confined ecosystems
that are exposed to UV, mycosporins
hold potential for new, safer and nature-
inspired sunscreen compounds.

The potential for natural oils and fruit and vegetable juices as topical UV-absorbing agents has been explored.
controlled enzymes can also reverse their course. commune, which showed high free radical-
As such, an active may provide efficacy in one area scavenging activity.88
of application, and be not so friendly in another. Yet another, from the marine actinobacteria
For example, melanin may be carcinogenic as well Actinoalloteichus sp., showed strong superoxide
as protect against cancer. This paradox exists since radical-scavenging activity, nitric oxide-scavenging
exposure to UVA produces DNA photoproducts, activity, reducing power and metal chelating
cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), which are activity. Thus, melanin could potentially be used
created picoseconds after a UV photon is absorbed as a natural antioxidant in the food, cosmetic and
by thymine or cytosine. CPDs are the major causes pharmaceutical industries.89
of apoptosis and photocarcinogenesis; they induce Photosomes: The organelles of polynod anne-
mutagenicity and immunosuppressive effects.85 lids contain photosomes, which are pseudocrystals
Melanin-based approaches to UV protection of endoplasmic reticulum and emit biolumines-
have been reported. For example, one UV-resistant cence in response to stimulation. Polynoidin, the
melanin was produced by Bacillus thuringiensis.86 membrane photoprotein, is triggered by superox-
Another melanin was derived from Auricularia ide radicals to emit this bioluminescence.90 This
auricula for commercial application in food and photoreaction has been proposed to repair DNA
cosmetics.87 Yet another extracellular melanin was damage caused by UV resulting in the formation
developed from the mushroom Schizophyllum of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers.

In one study, photolyase enzyme in Anacystis
nidulans was activated to affect electron transfer
between the flavin adenine dinucleotide (FAD or
flavin) and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer. This
resulted in DNA repair by excision repair of the UV
photoproducts.91 Plankton extract from Anacystis
nidulans, which may contain deoxyribodipy-
rimidine photo-lyase, have been formulated in
DNA-damage preventive sunscreenformulations.92
Among other microbe-based DNA repair
agents, 8-oxoguanine DNA glycosylase has received
attention.93 An extract from brown alga, Laminaria
ochroleuca, has been found to reduce skin inflam-
mation.94 The use of this extract in sunscreens to
reduce UV-caused inflammation has been sug-
gested.95 Also, the extract from thermal bacteria,
Thermus thermophilus, has been reported to repair
damage caused by UVA and to protect against
oxygenated free radicals.96 Most of these materials
are also antioxidants.
Antioxidants in Sunscreen:
Yea or Nay?
Considering the damaging effects of solar
radiation, it would seem logical to formulate an
antioxidant and/or an anti-inflammatory agent,
or even an analgesic, into an after-sun skin care
product. However, the reduction of inflammation,
pain and/or redness, which are signals from the
body, could cause excessive damage due to inad-
vertent over-exposure to sun. And most organic
sunscreens possess antioxidantand therefore
anti-inflammatoryproperties.
Is it a good practice to use additional anti-
oxidants and anti-inflammatory agents in an SPF
formula? In agreement with U.S. Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) concerns, this topic has
ignited opposing opinions,97 especially in light that
antioxidants and antioxidant-sunscreen hybrids
are reported to stabilize the photodegradation of
organic sunscreens.98
Natural Oils and Extracts

The potential for natural oils and fruit and
vegetable juices as topical UV-absorbing agents has
also been explored. In particular, UV absorption
was measured in vitro for: canola, citronella, coco-
nut, olive and soybean oils; vitamin E; aloe vera;
and fruit and vegetable juices and powders such as
acerola, beet, grape, orange carrot, purple carrot
and raspberry.

O O
O O
Bingel-Hirsch
reaction O
NC O
NC O
O
O O
O o
3 O O 3
Figure 7. Nano-diamond concept
Their mean absorptivity was compared with algae and lichens have shown potential photopro-
FDA-approved UV absorbers. Oils were at least tection properties against UV exposure-induced
two orders of magnitude lower compared with skin damage.102
organic sunscreens. The fruit juice powders
showed one order of magnitude lower absorptivity, Diamonds in the Rough
although formulations containing purple carrot Nano-sized TiO2 and ZnO are well-known
juice showed good UV-screening capabilities.99 to provide photo-protection; although as stated,
The fruit juice powders were more effective at concerns have been raised regarding their photo-
UV flitering; however, they still exhibited UV catalytic activity. In some world markets, coated
absorption one magnitude lower than commercial versions of these pigments are used to help prevent
UVfilters.100 such activities, but this is not always the case. As
This low UV absorption of natural oils sug- an alternative, nano-diamonds (NDs) do not pres-
gests with the proper safety and efficacy testing, ent such concerns.
they could be used in combination with organic In a mouse model, the application of 2 mg/
sunscreens. As an example, the incorporation of cm2 of NDs was found to efficiently reduce more
oxybenzone into nano-structured lipid carriers than 95% of UVB radiation, whereas in untreated
using oleic acid greatly increased the in vitro mice, UVB exposure caused the death of cultured
sun protection factor and erythemal protection keratinocytes and damage to fibroblasts and
factor more than six- and eight-fold, respec- the skin. NDs have thus been proposed as safe
tively, while also providing a very low irritation materials for preventing UVB-induced skin
potentialprofile.101 damage.103 Could diamond-bound sunscreens be
In addition to oils and juices, a number of too far-fetched? They may be a future possibility
natural products derived from propolis, plants, via Bingel-Hirsh-type reactions (see Figure 7),
CT1702_Formulating_GuptaII_fcx.indd 51 1/31/17 8:24 AM

utilizing diamond-like adamantanes and fuller- Provide maximum protection against all
enes.104 Note, certain fullerene derivatives may be skin-damaging wavelengths of light
especially attractive for skin protection, albeit not Require a minimal application rate
in their nano-sized forms.105 Cause no physical (skin irritation, inflamma-
tion), chemical (formula decomposition or
Chemical Bonding: harmful degradation by-product formation),
A Glimmer of Hope or biological (DNA damage, gene-alteration)
There is hope for organic sunscreens: through side effects
encapsulation in hollow particles or incorpora- Not absorb into the skin and be transported
tion into covalently bonded solid particles. This into the bloodstream
approach shows promise to overcome their photo- Be renewably sourced and cost effective
toxicity and degradation concerns. As an example, Have no adverse impact on the environment
when particles were prepared with 2-ethylhexyl or ecosystems
salicylate attached to a silica matrix through single We are a long way from developing this ideal
silsesquioxane groups, this covalent attachment sunscreen.107 It will require an orchestrated,
reduced leaching and photodegradation over multidisciplinary and internationally financed
physical encapsulation methods.106 effort by all: the private and public sectors, regula-
tory agencies and academia, to provide the best
Conclusion possible UV protection for consumers. Among the
In view of the scientific information presented, key roadblocks to such an achievement has been
a consumer-preferred, ideal sunscreen would, a lack of recognition of the above consumer needs
among other factors, be expected to: by both researchers andmarketers.
Fruits juice powders showed one order of magnitude lower absorptivity than organic sunscreens, although purple carrot juice
showed good UV-screening capabilities.

Furthermore, marketers need new and Dermatol 129(11) 2567-73 (Nov 2009) doi: 10.1038/
jid.2009.129
innovative ways to promote nature-inspired sun
77. Peltonen et al, Three randomized phase I/IIa trials of 5%
protection in a manner out-skirting any interna- cis-urocanic acid emulsion cream in healthy adult subjects
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94(4) 415-20 (Jul 2014) doi: 10.2340/00015555-1735
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78. Laihia et al, Topical cis-urocanic acid attenuates oedema
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The photoprotein polynoidin is specific for the detection of Thakur, eds, CRC Press (2016); Li et al, BingelHirsch reac-
superoxide radicals, Histochem Cell Biol 104(3) 199-210 tion on Sc2@C66: A highly regioselective bond neighboring
(Sep 1995) to unsaturated linear triquinanes, J Phys Chem C 119 (46)
91. Dushanov et al, A novel approach to simulate a charge 2619626201 (2015) doi: 10.1021/acs.jpcc.5b08698
transfer in DNA repair by an Anacystis nidulans pho- 105. Silpa et al, Nanotechnology in cosmetics: Opportunities
tolyase, Open Biochem J 8 35-43 (Mar 7, 2014) doi: and challenges, J Pharm Bioallied Sci 4(3) 186193 (Jul-
10.2174/1874091X01408010035, eCollection 2014; Wijaya Sep 2012); ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3425166;
et al, Flavin adenine dinucleotide chromophore charge Hsu et al, Molecular dynamics simulations predict the
controls the conformation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer pathways via which pristine fullerenes penetrate bacterial
photolyase a-helices, Biochemistry 53(37) 5864-75 (Sep membranes, J Phys Chem B 120(43) 11170-11179 (Nov 3,
23, 2014) doi: 10.1021/bi500638b 2016); ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27712070; Lens, Recent
92. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0150/6346/files/Aspire- progresses in application of fullerenes in cosmetics, Recent
LIFE_Efficacy_Report_aug_2012_red_size.pdf (Accessed Pat Biotechnol 5(2) 67-73 (Aug 2011); ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
Feb 21, 2016) pubmed/21619548
93. Kershaw et al, Repair of oxidative DNA damage is delayed 106. Tolbert et al, New hybrid organic/inorganic polysilsesqui-
in the Ser326Cys polymorphic variant of the base excision oxane-silica particles as sunscreens, ACS Appl Mater
repair protein OGG1, Mutagenesis 27(4) 501-10 (Jul 2012) Interfaces 8(5) 3160-74 (FEb 10, 2016) doi: 10.1021/
doi: 10.1093/mutage/ges012; Janssen et al, DNA repair acsami.5b10472
activity of 8-oxoguanine DNA glycosylase 1 (OGG1) in 107. Osterwalder et al, The long way toward the ideal
human lymphocytes is not dependent on genetic polymor- sunscreenWhere we stand and what still needs to
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2001) 2010) doi: 10.1039/b9pp00178f; personal-care.basf.
94. Bonneville et al, Laminaria ochroleuca extract reduces skin com/docs/press_center-pressemeldungen-2012/
inflammation, J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 21(8) 1124-5 cossma_sonnenschutzmittel_excl_062012_en?sfvrsn=0
(Sep 2007) 108. http://gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/janu-
95. tradeindia.com/fp1848904/Antileukine-6.html (Accessed ary_february_2016?pg=40#pg40; Rogers et al, A new
Feb 21, 2016) day for sun care, Global Cosm Indust 32-35 (Jan/Feb
2016); http://gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/janu-
96. ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/1240/44349/ ary_february_2016?pg=36#pg36 (Accessed Feb 24, 2016)
Venuceane (Accessed Feb 21, 2016)
97. Hayder et al, Sunscreen regulations and use of anti-
inflammatory agents in sunscreens, Dermatol Online J 19(7)
18969 Jul 14, 2013; ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24010515;
Lim et al, What is the significance of anti-inflammatory activ-
ity of UV filters in sunscreens? JAAD 69 3,483 (2013); Sayre
et al, Sun-protection factor confounded by antiinflammatory
activity of sunscreen agents? J Am Acad Dermatol 69 481
(2013)
98. Afonso et al, Photodegradation of avobenzone: Stabilization
effect of antioxidants, J Photochem Photobiol B 140 36-40 C&T Daily Newsletter
(Nov 2014) doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2014.07.004; Reis
et al, Synthesis, antioxidant and photoprotection activities Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
of hybrid derivatives useful to prevent skin cancer, Bioorg delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
Med Chem 22(9) 2733-8 (May 1, 2014) doi: 10.1016/j.
bmc.2014.03.017 http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
99. Gause et al, UV blocking potential of oils and juices, Int J
Cosmet Sci (Nov 27, 2015) doi: 10.1111/ics.12296; ncbi.
nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26610885
100. Gause et al, UV-blocking potential of oils and juices, Int
J Cosmet Sci 38(4) 354-63 (Aug 2016) doi: 10.1111/
ics.12296; ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26610885 C&T Webcasts
101. Sanad et al, Formulation of a novel oxybenzone-loaded Find current and upcoming webcasts at
nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), AAPS PharmSciTech www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
11(4) 1684-94 (Dec 2010) doi: 10.1208/s12249-010-9553-
2; Fang et al, Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) for drug
delivery and targeting, Recent Pat Nanotechnol 7(1) 41-55
(Jan 2013)

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Formulating | C&T
KEY POINTS
Phytosterols are proposed here to retard the
deterioration of cosmetic emulsions caused by
perfume degradation.
A simple technique is described to test the

performance of phytosterols from crude rice
bran oil, which provided the desired results.
Naturally Inhibit
Fragrance
Degradation
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article
allisorstrictly
part of this article is strictly
prohibited. prohibited.
2017 Allured Business Media. Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017
CT1702_Formulating_Shivali_fcx.indd 56 1/25/17 4:17 PM

Rice Bran Sterols in
Emulsions
Shivali Gupte, India
Sangeeta Sahasrabuddhe, Ph.D.
LAD College Seminary Hills, Nagpur, India
using an emulsion base representative of 80-90%

of the products in the cosmetic market.
A
Phytosterols in Context:
Rice Bran Oil Composition
To understand the stabilizing capacity
of rice bran oil phytosterols, it is helpful to
cosmetic product usu- see them in the overall context of the oil.
ally consists of at least Sterols are high molecular weight, crystalline,
10 to 15 ingredients, alcoholic, i.e., hydroxyl-group-containing,
and all must be compat- steroids found in animals (zoosterols), fungi
ible with each other to (mycosterols), plants (phytosterols), etc. They
form a stable product. are monovalent alcohols, with the OH group
Fragrance is an important component of in the C-3 position (beta configuration) on the
cosmetic products especially since it influences cyclopentenophenanthrenenucleus.
the consumer at the peak point of purchase. As noted, phytosterols occur in plants in
At times, however, the fragrance itself can be ester or glycoside form, and are a characteristic
incompatible with the formulation. component of the non-saponifiable portion of
Sterols have been proposed as fragrance vegetable oils and fats. Phytosterols are known
degradation inhibitors in dentifrices such as to have cholesterol-lowering effects. Moreover,
toothpastes and mouthwashes.1 Thus, to deter- they possess anti-inflammatory and anti-athero-
mine their efficiency in other product categories, genicity activity and may possess anti-cancer and
a series of tests was conducted, described here, antioxidative activities.
CT1702_Formulating_Shivali_fcx.indd 57 1/30/17 10:56 AM

Sterols are high molecular weight,
crystalline, alcoholic, i.e., hydroxyl-group-
containing, steroids found in animals,
fungi, plants, etc.
Phytosterols occur in the unsaponifiable matter Unsaponifiable matter: RBO contains 4.2%
of various vegetable oils such as cottonseed, tall oil, unsaponifiable matter, which includes antioxidants
soya bean, red palm, rapeseed (canola), sunflower, and micronutrients, whereas all other oils have an
corn and rice bran. As rice bran oil is the richest unsaponifiable matter content of less than 12%.
source of phytosterols from unsaponifiable matter, The RBO unsaponifiable fraction is rich in tocoph-
it was selected for the isolation of sterols and the erols and tocotrienols, -oryzanol, phytosterols
following described experiments.2 and squalene. Crude rice bran oil is rich source of
Rice bran oil (RBO): Rice (Oryza sativa Linn) -oryzanol, tocopherols, tocotrienols, wax esters,
bran is a byproduct, obtained from the outer layers fatty acid steryl esters and phytosterols.4
of the brown (husked) rice kernel during milling Phytosterols and fatty acid steryl esters:
to produce polished rice. The rice bran contains RBO is rich in phytosterols and fatty acid steryl
15-23% oil, which is one of the most nutritious oils esters (FASE). Crude RBO contains phytosterols
due to its favorable fatty acid composition vis--vis (4-4dimethylsterols, 4-monomethylsterols and
those suggested by expert groups and a unique 4-desmethylsterols), which are present either in
combination of naturally occurring biologically free form or as FASE. Both phytosterols and FASE
active and antioxidant compounds such as oryza- have water-holding properties and are thus used as
nol, tocopherols and tocotrienols. ingredients of cosmetics.5 Phytosterols are partially
Saponifiable matter: While the majority of removed in the winterization process during oil
lipids in RBO are non-starch lipids, the starchy refining, thus the crude oil was used in the present
lipids consist primarily of lysophospholipids, triac- experiments.6
ylglycerols and free fatty acids. Major phospholipid -Oryzanol (1.1-2.6%): -Oryzanol is a
species are lysophophatidylethanolamine and mixture of a whole group of ferulic acid esters of
lysophosphatidylcholine. The major fatty acids are triterpene alcohols and phytosterols. It is mainly
palmitic and linoleic acids, along with oleic acid.3 composed of four esters: cycloartanyl ferulate,
24-methylene cycloartanyl ferulate, -sitosteryl
ferulate and campesteryl ferulate. The structure of
-oryzanol may decompose during saponification
because the ester bond between ferulic acid and
the triterpene component of -oryzanol can be
hydrolyzed under alkali conditions. This could
result in a decreased extraction yield.5, 7
The CAGR for fragrance and flavor ingredients Tocopherols and tocotrienols (1%): Tocoph-
is projected at 5.68% from 2016-2021. This is erols and tocotrienols are generally not major
driven by the demand for natural products and components of vegetable oil, but their presence is
emerging uses in beauty and personal care. vital for stabilizing the unsaturated fatty acids of
these oils against oxidative deterioration.8
Squalene and other hydrocarbons: Squalene is
Source: Research and Markets
found in smaller quantities in the oil. Squalene is
(www.researchandmarkets.com)
used as a moisturizing agent in cosmetics due to its
high susceptibility to oxidation.2

chloroform solution of sterols was shaken with
Method: Sterol Isolation and an equal volume of concentrated sulfuric acid.
Confirmation When the liquids have separated, the chloroform
First, sterols were isolated from unsaponifiable layer appears brownish yellow, and the sulfuric
matter via saponification followed by liquid extrac- acid layer appears yellow-brown with a green
tion. RBO was saponified with KOH solution. fluorescence. As the test tube is allowed to stand
Once saponification was complete, water was for several hours, in the presence of sterols, the
added to the mixture, which was shaken vigorously sulfuric acid layer becomes deeper and redder in
so as to dissolve the water-soluble components. color, and more strongly fluorescent; the chloro-
For solvent extraction of phytosterols, hexane was form layer assumes a cherry-red or purple color.10
used since it is recommended for extracting the Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC): For this
lipophilic components of plants.9 test, a glass plate was prepared using silica gel as
The solution was shaken intensively and left to the adsorbent. A solution of 1% phytosterols in
separate in a separating funnel. The phytosterol n-hexane was prepared, and 0.2 mL of this solution
extraction was repeated in triplicate, hexane was applied to the glass plate. For the development
fractions were combined and the solvent was tank, methanolhexane was used as the solvent
evaporated at 50C. The solvent evaporated com- system. The developed TLC plate was sprayed with
pletely leaving behind only the phytosterols. a solution of freshly prepared 50mg ferric chloride
To confirm the presence of phytosterols, two (FeCl3) in a mixture of 90mL water, 5 mL acetic
identification tests were performed: the Salkowski acid and 5 mL sulfuric acid. After heating at 100C
Reaction and Thin Layer Chromatography. for 3-5 min, the presence of sterols is indicated by
Salkowski reaction: For this reaction, a the formation of a red-violetcolor.1, 11

Formula 1. Emulsion Base Method: Emulsion
Incorporation of
Sterols
Stearic Acid 12.0% w/w
Three variants of an emulsion
Cetyl Alcohol 1.5
(see Formula 1) were prepared,
Propylparaben 0.5
300 g of each, using three different
Triethanolamine 1.0
perfumes: rose (floral), lemon
Glycerin 8.0
Water (Aqua) 76.0 (citrus) and brute musk (anima-
Methylparaben 0.5 lic), to evaluate the potential of
Fragrance (Parfum) 0.5 phytosterols to inhibit perfume
degradation in three different
categories of fragrances.
Method: Stability
Determination
For stability studies and com-
parisons, variants of emulsions
for each perfume category were
prepared, including blank samples
of the base formulations without
sterols and containing perfume,
and test samples with sterols (1 g,
isolated from the crude rice bran
oil) and containing the perfume.
The perfume and sterols were
mixed properly, then added to the
test product.
All samples were tested at
three different temperatures: a
45C oven, room temperature
(25-30C) and a +4C refrigera-
Figure 1. Salkowski reaction tor. The studies were carried from
day 0 to day 48. The emulsions
Table 1. Stability of Samples (in days)
Rose Lemon Brute musk

Temperature
Blank Sterols Blank Sterols Blank Sterols
Oven 12-15 27-30 10-12 20-22 15-18 27-30
Room temp. 20-24 40-42 19-20 38-40 28-30 40-45
Refrigerator 18-19 38-40 15-16 28-30 21-25 38-41

Perfume and sterols were mixed, then added
to test emulsions. These were evaluated for
changes in color, pH, viscosity and odor.
were evaluated for changes in color (visually), pH

Results and Discussion:
(pH meter) and viscosity (viscometer), and by ten Stability Testing
expert panelists for changes in odor. As shown in Table 1, after examining all
parameters and test conditions, the samples
Results: Sterol Confirmation containing phytosterols were found to be more
For the Salkowski reaction, the solution con- stable. All blank samples of all the variants,
taining phytosterol extract turned cherry-red in without sterols, stored in the oven and at room
color, thus confirming the presence of phytosterols temperature lost their original, creamy white color
(see Figure 1). and turned off-white to pale yellow in as early as
In the case of TLC, the presence of reddish 1215 days. The samples kept in the refrigerator
spots from spraying the visualizing agent on the deteriorated at a slower rate.
plate confirmed the presence of phytosterols in As far as fragrance, initially, the panelists found
theextract. it appealing but the scent degraded rapidly and

finally turned into malodor. The lemon variant were stabler for a comparatively longer period of
showed signs of instability the earliest, whereas the time; i.e., up to day 39. Similarly, the pH of the
brute musk variant was the most stable. sterol samples decreased but at a slower rate, com-
The pH of all the blank samples without sterols pared with the blank samples. Viscosity changes
decreased, indicating instability. Their viscosities were observed but at a slower and constant rate.
also changed at a much faster rate. The viscosity of Again, the lemon variant was found to be most
the lemon variant showed the most variation. As unstable, compared with the rose and brute musk
might be expected, in the refrigerator, the emul- variants. This may be due the presence of citral.
sion samples showed slower rate of change. The brute musk variant, on the other hand, was
The emulsion samples containing sterols were thestablest.
much stabler. They showed no signs of breaking or
separation. Further, creaming was not observed, Conclusions
even at 45C. The color of emulsions faded but Phytosterols, typically obtained from vegetable
with a slower rate; i.e., not until around days 42-45, oils, nuts and seeds, were derived from rice bran
compared with the blank samples at days 15-21. oil and tested here for their potential to stabilize
Regarding odor, the sterol-containing samples emulsions against fragrance-induced degradation.

Since rice bran is a byproduct of dehusking 3. F Orthoefer; Baileys Industrial Oil and Fat Products, 6th
edn, John Wiley & Sons Inc, DeKalb, IL USA 6 466 (2005)
rice, it is cheap and is easily available. Also,
4. V Pali, Rice bran oilunique gift of nature: A review; Agricul-
the phytosterols were extracted from the oil by tural research communication centre journals, Agri. Reviews
saponification followed by an easily manageable 34(4) 288-294 (2013)
solvent extraction method, which can be used to 5. Yi-Hsu Ju and SR Vali, Rice bran oil as a potential resource
for biodiesel: A review, J Scientific & Industrial Res 64 870-
cut down the costs of inventory. 871 (Nov 2005)
The three categories of perfume used for sta- 6. R Kusum, H Bommayya, P Fayaz Pasha and HD Ramach-
bility testing were selected on the basis of general andran, Palm oil and rice bran oil: Current status and future
prospects, Intl J Plant Phys and Biochem 3(8) 129 (Aug
consumer acceptance and their frequency of
2011)
use in cosmetic products. For experimentation, 7. Z Xu and JS Godber, Comparison of supercritical fluid and
two sets of samples were prepared, with and solvent extraction methods in extracting -oryzanol from rice
withoutsterols. bran, JAOCS77(5) 547 (2000)
The emulsions containing sterols were tested 8. Ibid Ref 2, pp 321, 326-327
at room temperature and raised (oven) and 9. WJ Liu, Traditional Herbal Medicine Research Methods,
John Wiley and Sons Inc, Hoboken, NJ USA (2011) pp
lowered (refrigerator) temperatures and found 105-109
to be stabler than the blank samples, in terms of 10. SV Bhat, BA Nagasampagi and M Sivakumar, Chemistry of
odor, appearance, pH and viscosity. Interestingly, Natural Products, Springer Narosa, New Delhi, India (2006)
p 29
the sterols appeared to be less effective against
11. GR Chatwal and SK Anand, Instrumental Methods of
the degradation of citrus notes, as compared Chemical Analysis, 5th edn, Himalaya Publishing House,
with rose and brute musk variants. Mumbai (2002) pp 2.642-2.644
Overall, the authors conclude the sterols
proved to be good fragrance stabilizers for the
emulsion bases used in this research work and
with the three fragrance variants used.
References
C&T Daily Newsletter
1. US 2004/0265444, Deterioration preventive agent,
assigned to T Hiramoto, H Arai, T Saima and M Otsuka Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
(Dec 30, 2004) delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
2. A Kamal-Eldin, Baileys Industrial Oil and Fat Products,
6th edn, John Wiley and Sons Inc, Hoboken, NJ USA http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
(2005) p 330

posed food can cause poisoning. Putrefactive noticed elderly workers had wrinkled faces but
(decomposing) bacteria and ferment bacteria are extraordinarily soft and youthful-looking hands.
different types. Also, the activities of putrefactive Their hands were in constant contact with the
bacteria can produce malodors due to the produc- sake fermentation process. After five years of
tion of amines and hydrogen sulfide. research, and the careful examination of more
Putrefactive bacteria come to exist without than 300 types of yeast, the company developed
exception when organic compounds are in the Pitera (INCI: Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate), an
natural environment. However, fermentation is ingredient that would become the cornerstone of
generally triggered under specific conditions. the SK-II line.
For example, Chinese cabbage would spoil with Indeed, the companys signature Facial Treat-
no special treatment but it does not decay with ment Essence is 90% Pitera.6 This by-product of
salt treatment. Salt prevents putrefactive bacteria yeast fermentation contains a blend of vitamins,
from activating and helps to stimulate ferment amino acids, minerals and organic acids to protect,
bacteria. When salt-treated cabbage is stored in an rejuvenate and renew the skin. Anecdotally, the
appropriate container at the right temperature, the Facial Treatment Essence product has been called
ferment bacteria turn it into kimchi. the Holy Water or Miracle Water.7, 8
As such, specific conditions and environment
are the main cause of fermentation. Another Skin Whitening: Melanoston
example is in the case of milk. Milk spoils with a Cosmetics company Charmzone reported on
strong, foul smell under normal temperatures due the reduction of melanogenesis by yeast-extracted
to the activity of putrefactive bacteria. However, melanoston. According to their work, published
milk can be fermented to become cheese when in the Korean Agricultural Science Digital Library,
it is treated with specific enzymes under certain while melanoston was not a tyrosinase inhibitor,
conditions. The cheese-making process creates its application to B16 melanoma cell culture media
a different odor from the smell of amine and decreased intracellular tyrosinase activity by more
hydrogen sulfide. than 30%.9
As noted, fermented foods are edible; in fact,
many are known for positive health benefits. Skin Metabolism: Zyen,
Kimchi, for example, contains the healthy bacteria Zyen-g and 86 Plants
Lactobacillus, which is reported to aid in digestion Another notable South-Korean fermentation
and even prevent yeast infections. Some studies brand is Su:m37 by LG Household and Health
have show the fermented cabbage has compounds Care (LG).10 Meaning respiration in Korean,
that may prevent the growth of cancer, among su:m refers to the skins respiration and 37 repre-
other benefits.2-5 sents the optimal temperature forfermentation.
As is well-known, during fermentation, micro-
Anti-aging: Sake organisms break down the molecular structure of
Perhaps the most prominent product that substanceswhich according to LG, are reduced
launched the fermented skin care trend, and to a size that can penetrate the skin and rapidly
made a household name for itself, was Procter & boost its natural defenses. Therefore, the brand
Gambles Japanese SK-II line. The story of SK-II name Su:m 37 captures the science behind
began at a sake brewery in Japan, where scientists naturally fermented cosmetics, while the company
aims to capture this natural fermentation niche
market in skin care.11
Premium cosmetics will grow at a rate of 4% LG explains that 86 types of plants are gathered
in the next five years. Key trends shaping every season, and their roots, stems, leaves, flow-
cosmetic offerings include vegan and gluten- ers, seeds and fruit are allowed to ferment at 37C
free claims, and fermented ingredients. under controlled conditions. The natural fermen-
tation laboratory is located within a 10-km radius
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry in Gangwon-do, without large-scale commercial
(www.GCImagazine.com) facilities and where there is clean water and air.
Various fermentation tanks made from oak, cedar
CT1702_Formulating_Singh_fcx.indd 66 1/25/17 4:19 PM

Demand from cosmetics and pharma is
a major driver for growth in the global
fermentation chemicals market.
and pottery are placed on black charcoal, which absorbed. It can also produce skin-loving amino
covers the floor of the fermentation room. Humid- acids and antioxidants.14
ity and temperature are controlled but other than Furthermore, fermentation mimics the skins cell
that, it just takes time1,102 days, to be precise.12 functions and supports the skin without disrupting
The extracted solutions are then moved to its natural processes, so it is less likely to cause sen-
a storage area and maintained at the constant sitivity. Sugar and fruit acids, which are abundant
temperature of 37C, where they reportedly are in fermented ingredients, can help to moisturize,
left to breathe to the melody of a music box and too. Thus, fermented actives provide protection for
ferment dozens of times over. This process also the skin and strengthen its metabolism to make it
produces Zyen and Zyen-, fermented substances stronger and healthier.14
that contain amino acids, natural organic acids and
antioxidants. These materials stimulate the skins Fermented Cosmetics:
metabolism without causing irritation, giving skin The Trend of Tomorrow
a healthy and smooth appearance. The cosmetics industry is always looking for
innovation, and fermentation productswhich
Antioxidant and De-tox: are well-established in Koreawill likely become
Soybean the world trend of tomorrow. While mankind
In 2010, AmorePacific also developed a fer- has revived the ancient yet scientifically advanced
mentation-based skin care brand, Hyosia, derived concept of fermentation, it, in turn, can reinvigorate
from fermented soybeans.13 The basis for this the glow and texture of skin, among other benefits.
brand was the discovery of a unique isoflavone,
which the company trademarked CureBEAN. The References
ingredient demonstrated antioxidant functionality 1. http://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/3719659/
while effectively removing toxins from the skin, global-fermentation-chemicals-market-size-market#pos-0
normalizing the skins regeneration mechanism. 2. http://www.health.com/health/article/0,,20410300,00.html
3. http://online.liebertpub.com/doi/abs/10.1089/jmf.2013.3083
Further Fermented Brands 4. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/
S095816691630266X
Several other fermentation brands have been
5. http://www.fasebj.org/content/28/1_Supplement/LB405.
developed and are worth noting. short
Japanese brands: Dr. Ohhiras Probiotic 6. http://www.sk-ii.com/facial-treatment-essence/texture-refine-
Magoroku Skin Care, Ozeki Sake Rice Skin Care, ment/sk-ii-facial-treatment-essence/PG_00737052606279.
html
KURAHITO Skin White, Rice Beauty and Hakut-
7. http://www.sephora.com/facial-treatment-essence-P375849
suru Rice Beauty
8. http://www.beautyparler.ca/2010/02/holy-water-of-skincare-
Korean brands: Miev, Skinfoods Daal Story, sk-ii-facial.html
Sooryehans Hyo line, Saimdang and Sulwhasoo 9. http://agris.fao.org/agris-search/search.
American brand: Immunocologie do?recordID=KR2005009496
10. http://www.sum37.jp/eng/brand/sum37_2.jsp
Symbiotic with Skin 11. https://hopeinablog.wordpress.com/2010/12/02/
introducing-sum-37/
Fermented cosmetics have been found to act
12. http://www.lgcare.com/english/news/news01.
symbiotically with skin. While intestines produce jsp?bid=91.0&recno=80
enzymes, the skin does not. So the fermentation 13. http://www.trademarkia.com/hyosiah-white-cure-
process can be used to break down the molecular bean-85435654.html
structure of ingredients and make the nutrients 14. http://www.refinery29.com/fermented-beauty-products#slide
more concentrated, and more easily and rapidly
CT1702_Formulating_Singh_fcx.indd 67 1/25/17 4:19 PM

Endpoint | C&T
Secrets of the Trees

for Super Cosmetics?
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
Cosmetics & Toiletries
T rees are not the mute, woody giants we think them to be.
They are actually quite chatty. Obviously not in the way we
vocalize, but through their enormous underground net-
works. And according to Suzanne Simard, professor of forest
ecology at the University of British Columbia, theyre not
just making polite conversationtheyrecollaborating.1
What do talking trees have to do with cosmetics? As I listened to Simards
TED talk on NPR Radio,1 I started to draw parallels between her research and
our industrys work on the microbiome, epigenetics and wellness cosmetics;
even sustainability. It made me wonder if we were connecting as many dots as
we could be.

CT1702_Endpoint_fcx.indd 68 1/25/17 4:21 PM

Share and Share Alike ness. Or taking localized hyperpigmented spots
Consider this: Simard explained that trees and spreading them out, to provide innate sun
use underground fungi networks that connect protection across the body.
via myceliumbranching, thread-like structures
through which nutrients are absorbed. Initially,
Finding the Common
it was believed these structures competed against Denominator
one another for water and nutrients, to ensure The key to unlocking such a phenomenon
their parent plant thrived. But a few decades ago, would be to identify the common denominator
scientists discovered in vitro that plant seedlings and means to redirect resources from one body
could transmit carbon to one another through site to anotherthe epitome of sustainability. But
their roots, effectively building community and where to start? Maybe like Simard, by focusing on
sharing with one another. just a few cell types and isolating 80 (or fewer) of
Simard took these lab observations to the field, them to examine their mechanisms and identify
where she discovered they translated to life in the where some sort of transfer (for desired effects)
forest. She covered a few plant species, including is taking place. Then, looking to see what those
fir, cedar and birch80 plants in totalin plastic, transfer mechanisms have in common.
some within the same fungi network and others This moves into the realm of molecular
completely isolated. Additionally, some plants biology, which Howard Epstein, Ph.D.,6 described
were shaded from the sun. She then introduced as a field that investigates how cells develop,
either C14 or C13 isotope gases into their atmo- operate, communicate and control their activities.
spheres in the plastic. After one hour, the plants Cells communicate with body tissue, which is
in the same network were found to exchange composed of cells, he wrote. Tissue communi-
these isotopes in a two-way conversation. Those cates with other tissues and organs throughout
in the shade who needed more carbon received the body. Generally the transfer of information
it from those in the sun. Plants removed from the between cells, tissues and organs is through the
network did not. interaction of proteins.
Additional studies showed this exchange So, could proteins hold the key?
?
varied based on seasonality and growth stage, This thought experiment could continue in
collaborating each time to give assistance to the limitless directions; it certainly extends beyond
plants in need. Furthermore, conversations were the limits of my expertise, and potentially yours.
happening not only in carbon, but also nitrogen, But you see where its headed. If we were to take
phosphorus and water; and defense signals, allele and recycle a page from the trees, we could col-
signals, hormonesessentially, information. lectively approach this super cosmetic concept
Much like the brains network. as a network to get to the root of an interesting,
novel outcome.
Holistic Cosmetic Network
It occurred to me that in cosmetics, different References
paths wind through the forest toward a given 1. npr.org/2017/01/13/509350471/how-do-trees-collaborate
skin care benefit. Anti-aging, for example, can be 2. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/antiaging/
Epigenetic-Fibroblast-Revival-396943661.html
approached in a multitude of ways: epigenetics,2,3 3. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/antiaging/
the microbiome,4 cellular communication,5 etc. Bee-lieve-It-Epigenetic-Anti-aging-392084341.html
4. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/patents/
Other disciplines including nutrition, wellness,
Patent-Pick-Bad-Cell-Signal-Bacteria-Can-Reconnect-Anti-
dermatology, psychology and others also cross aging-Messages-378851501.html
paths into the cosmetic forest. 5. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/antiaging/
Marine-Ingredient-Wins-Gold-Has-Us-AllmdashEspecially-
So what if, like the trees, all these paths had a SkinmdashTalking-397143281.html#sthash.TC5uXHSV.dpuf
similar underlying network of roots? Could this 6. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/Molecular-
network be orchestrated so excesses in some areas Biology-in-Future-Skin-and-Hair-Care-premium-256060291.
html#sthash.bPL49Rr8.dpuf
are transmitted to shortages in others? This would
result in the ultimate holistic approach, sending
signals, for example, from excess thigh cellulite
to the sagging face, to increase thickness and firm-
CT1702_Endpoint_fcx.indd 69 1/25/17 4:21 PM

Formulating | C&T
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The ingredients used are held to some of the highest purity and
The Exfoliating body scrub with biodegradable Ecobeads
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long-lasting moisturizing effects of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and
glycerin, in an anhydrous platform. This refreshing body scrub
leaves the skin soft and smooth after only one use.
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Visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com to view the
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Advertiser Index | C&T
February 2017 | Volume 132, number 2
ActivON Co. Ltd. Grant Industries schlke, Inc.

63 1 C2
activon@activon.kr info@grantinc.com info@schuelke.com
www.activon.kr www.grantinc.com www.schuelke.com
Centerchem, Inc. Ikeda Corp. Sytheon Ltd.

C4 50 C3
cosmetics@centerchem.com info@ikeda-america.com info@sytheonltd.com
www.centerchem.com www.ikeda-corp.co.jp www.sytheonltd.com
Colonial Chemical, Inc. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Vantage Specialty

9 3 59
www.colonialchem.com info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com Ingredients, Inc.
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com marketing.pc.us@vantagegrp.com
www.vantagegrp.com
Covestro/Baycusan
5
cosmetics@covestro.com Reed Exhibitions/
55
www.baycusan.com in-cosmetics Europe
incos.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk
www.in-cosmetics.com
Dr Straetmans Chem.
37
Prod. GmbH
info@dr-straetmans.de Sabinsa Corp.
31
www.dr-straetmans.de info@sabinsa.com
www.sabinsacosmetics.com
CT1702_Advertiser_Index_fcx.indd 72 1/25/17 4:23 PM

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SYTHEON SARL 112 rue de Paris, 92100 Boulogne Billancourt www.sytheonltd.com sytheon@sytheonltd.com Tel.: +33 (0)1.4110.8182


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schlke inc. | Fairfield, NJ | USA |

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6 Editors Note: Circling Back

8 Advisor Insight: Green

68 Endpoint. Secrets of the Trees

20 Moving Toward Microbes

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017

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Reduces the appearance of pores and

DEcrEasEs conspicuous porE sizE

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by R.K. Sivamani, M.D., et al. CORPORATE

Bubbling Over with Innovation, Literally

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Beauty Made Possible.

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6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017

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Dont miss all the changes Cosmetics & Toiletries is making!

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Green Chemistry Evolves

Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.

Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.

Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017

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What has changed in recent years is that large

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Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11

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Sustainability is a nebulous term but has been

12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017

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Photo Credit: Alban Muller Photo Credit: Merck KGaA

Whitening Marine Active Vegan Thickening Agents

Photo Credit: Lessonia

Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 13

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The safety-in-use of cosmetic products has

Safety to the Test

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However, the right oils have been shown to

Plant Oil Insight From the Skin's Perspective

Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

Oil Composition and Skin Barrier

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Barrier Strength: Argan

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18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017

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reduced acne lesions in both groups, the addition

Follow the Research www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

Advances in research regarding the effects,

Vol. 132, No. 2 | February 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 19