Rear

Wheel
Rear Wheel
Tyre Inspection
Rear Wheel Removal
Tyre Replacement
o Wheel Balancing
Bearing Inspection/Replacement- to be written
Rear Wheel Installation

General Comments
When changing the tyre the cheapest and
easiest choice is to buy the tyre online and take it and
your wheel to a garage that has a tyre removal
machine and get them to do it, as it isnt that costly 2. Using an inspection lamp, turn the wheel
(10-15). But if you want to save a little more cash around checking to make sure there are no
and wrestle with it then follow the instructions below. foreign objects imbedded in the tyre and no
If replacing the tyre yourself, dont forget to take it to tears in the tread. Some are acceptable but
a local recycling place or garage willing to dispose of when you start pulling out lots of glass and cuts
it for you. Your tyres always need to be in mint reach far below the minimum tread then you
condition, youve only got two holding you to the road might want to consider changing it.
and you cant afford for either of them to fail.
Instead of using wheel weights to balance the
wheel, Dyna-beads are an option. They are little beads
that go inside the tyre and balance it on the move. The
instructions are not covered here but are on their
website associated with their product. I am fine with
traditional wheel weights. Also when reinstalling the
rear wheel you need to align the belt. The basic
procedure is provided below but see the belt guide for
more detail and use of the laser tool.

Tyre Inspection

What you need before hand

Inspection lamp
Tyre pressure gauge
Tyre inflation device
Tread depth gauge

Steps 3. Look for any uneven wear- flattening in the

1. Raise the bike of the ground so that the wheels middle (probably due to under inflation) or
can move freely. If you cant do this you will scalloping of the sides.
have to move the bike backwards or forwards
to be able to inspect the whole tyre.

2 Thunderbird Storm
4. Check the age of the tyre. About 5 years is the
length of life of a tyre, longer than this and the
oils in it can dry out. The age of the tyre is
typically printed into the side, this one was
made on the 23rd week of 2015.
5. Tyre pressure: Undo the dust cap on the tyre
valve and place the pressure gauge on the
valve. If the pressure is correct return the dust
cap, if not inflate or deflate to the required
pressure. The rear tyre should be 2.68bar
(38PSI) irrespective of if you have a pillion.
6. If you need to inflate, screw on the tyre
inflation device and start pumping. If you need
to deflate unscrew the inflation device a little
and the air should come out.
7. Tyre depth: the depth of the tread at the lowest
point on the tyre should be no less than 2mm
deep. The lowest point will typically be in the
centre of tyre. On the side of the tyre will be an
embossed mark; a line, an arrow or a tyre
company emblem. Follow this around the
width of the tyre and you will see other
embossed marks indicating the minimum tyre
tread depth. Just next to these marks is where
you measure the tread depth. Stick the gauge in
the tread and it will tell you the depth. Do this
at several points across the tyre.
Job Done!
Rear Wheel Removal
What you need before hand
Screwdriver: T5 Hex
Sockets: 8mm 12mm, 27mm
Spanner: 12mm
Rubber mallet
Elastic bands or alternative to support caliper
Steps
1. Raise the bike so that it is just off the ground and no
weight on the wheel. Remove any panniers if fitted.
2. Removing the silencers is necessary if you have
long pipes but with short pipes you dont have to
but does make it easier. If removing the exhausts,
undo the two clasps holding the exhaust shield to
the exhaust using T5 Hex screwdriver. Then slip it
off

3. Undo the clamp holding the exhaust to the catalytic
(CAT) converter (or pipe if you have CAT
removed) using 12mm socket.
4. Undo the bolt attaching the exhaust to the frame
using 12mm socket and 12mm spanner.
5. Wiggle the silencer away from the CAT and place
aside. Put the bolt and rubber grommets back in so
you dont loose them.
6. Repeat steps 2-4 for the opposite exhaust if needed
and clean all parts.
7. Remove the spindle nut and washer located on the
right side of the wheel using 27mm socket.
Rear Wheel 3
8. Loosen the lock nut and adjuster nuts using 14mm
spanner on both the drive belt and disc brake sides
until there is substantial slack in the belt.
9. Support the weight of the wheel and slide the
spindle out from the left side of the bike. It might
need a gentle tap with a rubber mallet.
10. Lower the bike down so the wheel is resting on the
ground and not on the brake caliper. Remove the
upper belt guard for convenience using 8mm socket
on the back screw and a T5 Hex on the front.
4 Thunderbird Storm

spacer lives on the side of the final drive, the longer
spacer lives in the side of the brake disc. Clean all
parts removed.
14.

11. The rear brake caliper isnt screwed into the bike. It
just sits on a slot on the swing arm. So with the
wheel disconnected, move it around until you can
slide the rear brake caliper from the slot. Dont let it
dangle by the brake hose. Several elastic bands
should support its weight. It is also practical to
consider at this point disconnecting the brake line,
cleaning the caliper and replacing the brake fluid
(see separate guide), but you dont have to. Wheel Removed! Onto The Next Task

Rear Tyre Replacement/Balancing

What you need before hand

Remove wheel as per instructions above
Tyre: Metzeler ME800 Marathon
200/50ZRR17, Dunlop D208 200/50ZR17 or
suitable equivalent
Something to rest the tyre on- another tyre or
wood are good options.
12. With the rear brake caliper out of the way and the Valve core remover
spindle removed, role the wheel forward until the Tyre irons with integrated bead breakers e.g.
belt is loose enough to slide off the final drive motion pro- or separate bead breaker tool.
pulley. Tie the belt aside. 2-3x Rim protectors
Tyre/rubber grease
Plastic wheel weight removal tool
Methylated spirits
Wheel balancer
Air compressor/foot pump
Tape
Wheel weights or Dynabeads

Replacement Steps
1. Warm up the tyre in the sunshine, with a hair dryer
or by a radiator to make it more flexible. Do the
same with the new tyre as well. Once warm place
onto some wood to protect the rim and brake disc.

2. Using the vale removal tool, remove the valve core

13. With the wheel detached raise the bike enough so
in the tyre valve. The tyre will deflate.
that you can roll the wheel out from the swing arm.
Make sure you collect the two wheel spacers and no
dirt enters the wheel bearings. The shorter wheel
 Rear Wheel 5

6. Repeat around the edge of the tyre until one side

can be pulled off by hand.
3. The next step is to break the beading around the
edge of the tyre. Spray some window cleaning
solution or smear tyre grease around the rim to
lubricate the edge. You dont have to buy a
separate bead braking tool and tyre irons, buy an
integrated one like the ones offered by Motion
Pro. Place the tyre iron in place as a set to break
the bead. Do it in several locations on the side
closest to you. Then push the rest of it off by
hand.

7. Now the tyre will be half way off. Put the rim
protector in place again and from the inside lever
the tyre off. It may help to kneel on the top of the
tyre while using the lever to pop it off. Dispose of
the tyre ethically.

4. Turn the wheel over and break the bead on the

other side.

5. Turn the wheel back over, spray some more
cleaning fluid/tyre grease on the rim and kneel on
one side of the tyre. Put some rim protectors in
place on the opposite side. 2 should be enough but
you may need three. Against the rim protectors,
lever the tyre off the rim.
8. Clean and inspect the rim for damage. Pay
particular attention to where the rim sits in the
bead. The new tyre should be warming up
somewhere, if not use a hair dryer.
6 Thunderbird Storm

12. Spray a rag with some lubrication/tyre grease

and rub around the edge of your tyre wall. With
the tyre in the right spot push it on. It may need
9. With the tyre off it is a good time to remove the levering.
wheel weights using a plastic scraper. Then use
some methylated sprits to rub off the remaining
sticking pad. Dont use a screwdriver or knife
because you will probably scrape the paint off
your rims.

10. The lightest part of the new tyre needs to be

lined up with the heaviest part of the rim. Now
typically this is in the same place as the valve
stem, but not always. First make sure that your
tyre balancer is level. Then place the rim on the
wheel balancer. Let the rim spin back and forth
slowly until it stops moving. Once it is stopped,
place a piece of tape at the bottom to mark the
heaviest spot of the rim.
13. Smear some more tyre grease around the
opposite rim. Put your rim protectors in place
kneel on one side of the tyre and using the tyre
iron lever the tyre over the rim. In all honesty I
couldnt get it on, I didnt have the knack L so I
took it to the dealer to get them to pop it on with
a machine. It is cheap and saves a lot of hassle.

14. Once the tyre is on it needs to be beaded. Using

the valve core removal tool, return the valve
core. Inflate the tyre and you should hear two
loud bangs that indicate that the bead has seated
into the rim. If it doesnt go in, deflate, lube and
repeat.

Balancing Steps
15. Place the wheel onto your balancing stand.

11. Now look for the dot (or 2) on the tyre. This
denotes the lightest part of the tyre and is to be
placed over the heaviest spot on the rim.
Furthermore, there is an arrow on your tyre and
that has to match the direction of the rim. Tyres
go forward (clockwise) so the arrow needs to be
facing the same way.

16. Gently spin the wheel. It will eventually stop
with the heaviest part at the bottom (6 Oclock).
Mark the top (12 Oclock) with some tape.
17. Peel back a little bit of the wheel weight and
place it at the lightest spot of the tyre (the top). rd/ForumPosts.csp?InId=11273&InCategoryId=0&
18. With the wheel weight in place, turn the wheel
so that the wheel weight it is at the 9 Oclock
position. If the right weight is on the rim it
should stay stationary. If there isnt enough
weight the wheel will spin clockwise, if there is
too much weight then the wheel will spin anti-
clockwise.
19. Once the correct wheel weight is identified,
remove the rest of the tape and stick them to the
wheel rim as close to the centre of the rim as
possible.
Wheel ready, onto bearings or reinstallation.
Rear Wheel 7
Rear Wheel Bearing Inspection/Replacement
At the time of writing this guide, my bearings were
in good condition. When I need to change them I
will write out this section. But until then follow
these guides.
Delboy Garage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQbKXbhyFQ
s
Motorcycle Magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaKcgFy6e64
Thunderbird specific
http://www.thunderbird1600.com/csp/thunderbi
InLocation=(Technical%20Talk-
How%20to%20...%20step%20by%20step.-
Change%20Rear%20Wheel%20Bearings)&InSkin=
Ancient&InPage=1&ItemsPerPage=30
Rear Wheel Installation
What you need before hand
Multi-purpose grease
New nut (possibly): T3350118: M18
Modified belt tensioner tool
Vernier caliper
Service/Alignment Tool T3880148
Torque wrench: 110, 28Nm
Spanner 14mm
Rubber mallet
Steps
1. Smear some multi-purpose grease on the lip of the
bearing seals and edges.
2. Put the spacers back into place: on the hub and
drive flange. The shorter wheel spacer lives on the
side of the final drive, the longer spacer lives in
the side of the brake disc.
8 Thunderbird Storm
3. Roll the wheel into place and slide the belt on.
6. Put the washer and a new nut (T3350118) on the
7. Time to set belt tension. Line up the wheel using
4. Move the rear brake caliper back into place. It sits
on a slot on the wing arm. Make sure the brake
calipers are on either side of the brake disc.
5. Smear a little multi-purpose grease onto the
spindle and slide it in from the left side of the
bike.
spindle and loosely tighten. I dont believe it is
necessary to have a new nut every single time you
take the wheel off or adjust the belt tension like
the Triumph Service Manual directs, thats just
overkill. However, it cant hurt to change this nut
in accordance with when you change the wheel
bearings to be safe. At this point with the wheel
on it is a good idea to check that the rear brake is
working as it should.
the adjusters until they are in line with the same
spot on either side of the swing arm. There are
several dots on the outside of the swing arm that
help you do this. They are not accurate enough to
align the wheel but are sufficient at this point (Yes
this picture doesnt have the wheel in).
8. You can get a rough
indication of the belt tension by
depressing it by hand and looking
at how many notches it moves in
the lower belt guard inspection
window. However, this is not
accurate. The service tool
(T3880126) is not available to
buy anymore and wasnt that
great to begin with. You can buy
other bet tensioner gauges and

get a piece of metal, plastic or wood modified to
resemble the original tool, see guide on Final Drive
for further details. Furthermore, when trying to take
measurements with the little rubber ring there is
greater room for error. So use the difference between
the gap with out without belt deflection. Using
calipers take a measure from the bottom of the
tensioner cradle to the top of the tensioner guide and
take note of the number. Undo the tensioner guide
screw and put the tool in place. Press from the
bottom of the tensioner tool to 10lbf of pressure and
then secure the tensioner guide. Take a new
measurement from the top of the cradle to the top of
the tensioner guide and the difference between this
measure and the previous will give you then amount
of tension in the belt. When not under tension (off
the ground) the belt tensions should be between 7.5-
9mm. I have found that adjusting belt tension when
off the ground is more accurate than adjusting it
when on its side stand because it is easier to move
the wheel when off the ground. Check the belt
tension at several spots along the belt to make sure it
is in specification.
9. If the belt is too slack then the adjuster nut has to
be turned clockwise using a 14mm spanner. If the
belt is too tight then turn the adjuster anti-
clockwise. When undoing the adjuster it helps to
give it a couple of gentle taps with a rubber mallet
so that it is flush against the swing arm.
Rear Wheel 9
10. Both the belt tension and the wheel alignment
have to be in place before tightening the spindle
nut. So onto wheel alignment. Slide the service
tool T3880148 through the spindle from the left
side of the motorcycle. Screw the elongated nut of
the service tool on the right hand side of the
spindle. If on correctly the top of the service tool
nut and the other tapered end should be in line
with the measurement mark on the swing arm.
11. Using vernier calipers, measure the distance from
the mark on the swing arm and the service tool.
On the right side its between the rectangular top
of the tool and the swing arm marker. On the left
side it is between the round part of
the tool and the marker on the
swing arm. There is a tolerance of
0.3mm! That means the distance on
either side needs to be practically
the same and within 0.3mm of each
other. Use a 14mm spanner to shift the adjuster on
the rear brake side of the swing arm. You may end
up going back and forth a number of times but it is
crucial this is correct to stop belt chirp/squeak.
10 Thunderbird Storm
12. With the alignment done for the first time, return
to step 8 and repeat the belt tension
inspection/adjustment. Keep adjusting the belt
tension and wheel alignment until they are both in
specification. When both are in specification use
the 14mm spanner to move the locknut against
each adjuster nut being careful not to move the
adjuster nuts in the process. If you have two very
thin 14mm spanners then you can do the locknut
up tightly.
13. Now tighten the rear spindle nut using 27mm
socket to 110Nm. When tightening, do so from 6
Oclock to 9 Oclock to minimize the chance of
the wheel being moved out of alignment when
being placed up to tension.
14. Turn the wheel and operate the rear brake to check
it is working. Rectify any issues if needed.
15. Double check both the belt tension and wheel
alignment using steps 8-12 above just to make
sure nothing has shifted. I have found that
following tightening of the spindle the belt tension
and alignment can sometimes move a little. So go
back and check the tension and the alignment and
adjust again if necessary.
16. Return the silencer to position, it may need
encouragement from a rubber mallet. Return the
bolt using 12mm socket and 12mm spanner and
tighten sensibly (28Nm). Tighten the clamp using
12mm socket sensibly (15Nm).
17. Return the heat shields and screw the fasteners in
sensibly using T5 Hex screwdriver. No need to
torque because they easily bend out of shape.
Make sure you get the clamp and heat shield clasp
in a position that they can both co-exist.
 Rear Wheel 11

18. Return the upper belt guard using an 8mm socket

and a T5 Hex screwdriver.

Job Done!