Importance of Cutting room

1.1. What is clothing?

Clothing is assemblage of several parts together by means of a seam or stitch. Raw material used for clothing is
a TWO DIMENSIONAL FABRIC, but the finished garment (clothing) is a three dimensional product which wraps
around our body giving proper fit and comfort ability.

The first stage in the manufacture of the garments is the cutting of the fabrics into necessary pattern shapes.
Then the cut components are joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments

Different types of garment production systems

There are different ways to organize the production of garments, according to thetype, the quantity and the
diversity of products to be made.The number of items to be made and the rate of delivery of these
itemsdistinguish individual production, batch production and mass production.Individual ProductionBatch
ProductionMass Production

1.2.1. Individual Production

With individual production (making through) each product is made only once. Thesystem requires highly
skilled, experienced operators and versatile machinery.Example: made-to-measure costume.The Individual
Production best example is CUSTOM TAILORING.

1.2.2. Batch Production

Batch production is used for larger, though fixed quantities of identical articleseither for stock or to
order.Examples: blouses, skirts

1.2.3. Mass Production

Mass production means that large quantities of identical products are madecontinuously. The high utilization
of machinery and labour allows a high level ofautomation and specialization.Examples: T-shirts, work trousers

Industry Sector and Product Types

The clothing industry ranges from small, hand-made (bespoke) operations up tolarge industrial garment
making enterprises.Industrial production is divided according to

Target groups (women's, men's, and children's wear),Applications (underwear, shirtings, foundation garments,
workwear, and sportswear),Materials (wovens, flat knits, circular knits).

Bespoke operations are divided along technical lines into men's tailoring,women's tailoring, shirting, and
underwear.
Marker making

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specificstyle and the sizes to be cut from
a single spread.Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of patternpieces for a
specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes. The process ofarranging pattern pieces in the most efficient
manner requires skill, time and

concentration. Markers may be made by manually tracing master patterns

ontothe fabric or paper or by manipulating and plotting computerized pattern images.The marker making can
be broken down in to following two sections

(1). Marker Planning

It is the placement of pattern pieces to meet technical requirements andneeds of material economy

(2). Marker Production.

This may include drawing of marker plan directly on the fabric, drawing iton to a paper marker by pen or
automatic plotter, or, where the cutting methodallows it, recording pattern piece information on the paper
marker or on the fabricwithout actually drawing pattern lines on it.
1.5.1. The requirements of marker planning

The greater attention is always given for the marker planning. Any reduction in the amount of the cloth used
per garment leads to increased profit. Marker planning is always a very open & creative process. Marker
planning is a highly skilled activity and different people have different attitudes for this kind of work.
Computerized marker making can assist but rarely replace skilled people.

1.5.2. General procedure for marker planning

The large pattern pieces have to be positioned first and then fitting the smaller pieces in to the gaps. Most of
the pattern pieces are irregular and often tapered, skill leis in discovering those edges which fit together most
neatly, and placing side by side across the marker those pieces that fill the width most nearly. The marker
planner has to try a number of pattern placements, selecting the one that gives the shortest marker.

1.5.3. Factors affecting marker planning

The work of the marker planner is subject to a number of constraints relating to

1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment

2. Requirements of quality in cutting3. Requirements of production planning

Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment

Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric Symmetry and Asymmetry of the fabric Design
Characteristics of the finished garment Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric Pattern pieces
normally carry a grain line When pattern pieces are laid down the piece of the cloth, as it is commonest with
large pattern pieces, the grain line should lie parallel to the warp of the woven fabric or Wales in a
knittedfabric.When pattern pieces are laid across the piece of the cloth, the grain line should lie parallel to the
weft or course direction. In bias cutting the grain lines will be normally beat 45 oto warp.

The requirement to follow grain lines restricts the freedom the marker planner how to lay the patterns in the
marker. Symmetry and Asymmetry of the fabric Many fabrics can be turned round (through 1800) and retain
the same appearance

These fabrics may be called as symmetry or two way fabrics When planning the marker on these two way
fabrics no special action isrequired.More restrictions are fabrics with some asymmetry. The ply fabric does not
retain the same appearance, especially when two opposite ways are sewn together. Design Characteristic of
the finished garment while planning a marker the design characters of the garments are also to be considered
and this also affects the freedom of the marker planner in the placement of the patterns

Requirements of Quality in Cutting

The placement of pattern pieces in the marker must give enough knife clearance allowance for the freedom of
the knife movement.
A blade which has the width, cannot turn a perfect right angle in the middle of a pattern piece and space must
be given for knife to turn such corners.

Pattern count must always be made at the completion of the planning of a marker to check that the complete
number of pattern pieces has been included or not.

Correct labeling of the cut garment parts are essential. The marker planner has to code every pattern piece
with its size as the marker is planned.

Requirements of production planning

Order quantity from buyer normally consists of different sizes in differentcolors.The requirements of the
production planning and control will be able to supply the sewing room with an adequate amount of cut
garments at sufficiently frequent intervals, consistent with the availability of the fabrics and the best utilization
of cutting room resources Higher lay than a lower lay gives a lower cutting labour cost per garment.

Fabric and Garment Symmetry

Understanding the modes of marker making and spreading are important concepts. The relationship to fabric
and garment symmetry identifies how correct choices must be made to obtain good quality and to control
cost. There is a direct relationship between quality and cost. Methods that lead to better quality take

More time, thus more cost. (Time is Money!)

a) For the purpose of defining marker making and spreading modes, we use specific definitions of fabric
and garment symmetry
b) A Symmetric Garment is one in which, except for the difference of buttonhole and button-sew, dividing
the garment along the vertical centerline of the body, the right half parts are identical but mirror
image of the left hand parts
c) A Symmetric Fabric is one which has no change in appearance when the fabric is turned 180 o in the
same plane.

Put Ups

Fabrics are prepared at the mill in a variety of ways for production. The way in which it is rolled or folded when
dyeing and finishing is completed is referred to

as put-up.

Some methods of put-up are used to protect the fabric; others are strictly for the convenience of spreading
and handling.

Flat, Open and Rolled

Flat, open and rolled is the most common preparation. It is utilized for most woven fabrics prepared for factory
production. The fabric is rolled on a hard cardboard tube (or plastic tube) where the selvedges are at opposite
ends of the tube. The fabric is usually rolled with the technical face to the inside of the roll. Roll lengths on
each tube can reach 1,200 yards on a single roll, but are more often in the 150 yard range, depending on the
weight of the roll.

1.7.2 Folded and Rolled

Folded and rolled is a put-up that allows the utilization of a single center fold in the length of the goods. In this
preparation, the fabric selvedges are superimposed one over the other. This preparation is utilized with very
wide fabrics that cannot be processed by a manufacturer who does not have wide enough cutting tables.
Folded and rolled fabric orients the technical face of the fabric inside the folded surfaces, so they are not
visible on the surface of the spread.

1.7.3. Tubular Folded goods

Tubular Folded goods are prepared by rolling fabrics manufacturers on weft knitting machines. These machines
knit in a circular motion, creating a tube of fabric. This put-up result in fabric on a roll with two folds, one at
each end of the tube. This preparation results in the technical face of the fabric oriented together. For every
other layer, the face is not visible from the surface of the spread.
 Book Fold: Book Fold is the most relaxed put up. Fabric is laid back and forth in a carton.Book Fold is used
for delicate fabrics to minimize the stress on the fabric.

A Velvet Frame

A Velvet Frame is used for pile fabrics. A tube connects two square frames that contain concentric circles of
sharp hooks. The fabric is hung from the hooks where the selvedges are fastened to pairs of hooks (at each
edge of the fabric)starting closest to the center and rotating around the center to the outer edge of the
frames. This creates an air space between the concentric layers of fabric.

Carded Bolt

Carded Bolt is a put-up most often seen in mens suiting and fabric retail.

The fabric is folded in half lengthwise, and rolled on a flat board (cardboard).

Some important Definitions

a. Goods:

A truncated form of the phrase Piece Goods which are textile fabrics, either woven or knitted.

b.Lay:

Multiple superimposed layers of fabric on a cutting table.

c.Spreading:

The process of rolling out layer after layer of cloth, smoothly without wrinkles, in such a manner that the
selvedge on one side of the cloth is straight, and parallel to that edge of the cutting table.
- 15 -

d.

Selvedge:

The natural edge of milled fabric. Sometimes referred to as

self

edge.

e.

Put up:

The preparation of fabric for the spreading process.f.

Cutting Table:

Work table that is at least six inches wider than the widestfabric to be processed, and two to three feet longer
than the longestspread length.g.

Marker:

The tracing of pattern pieces used to guide the cutting process.The marker is usually created on paper and
placed over the top layer of aspread (lay). Kept on-grain, the patterns are fitted next to each other in themost
efficient manner possible for the marker mode required.h.

Flat open and rolled

: Fabric is rolled on a tube with the fabric layerspread out and selvedges at each end of the tube.i.

Folded and rolled:

Fabric is folded in the length, and rolled on a tube.The selvedges are oriented one on the other. j.

Tubular folded

: Fabric that is created on a circular knitting machine is flattened and rolled on a tube. Both edges of the fabric
are virtually,folded.k.
Book Fold:

Fabric is folded into a carton accordion style, under no tension or compression. The fabric is released flat and
open.

L.Velvet Frame: A Steel or Plastic frame with concentric hooks to hang flat open fabric to prevent compression
of the fabric face.

Production Process in the cutting room

Irrespective of size, all cutting rooms use the same basic system to produce cutwork, with the raw materials
going through the same operations in the same sequence. The factor distinguishing the operations of one
cutting room from another is the level of the technology employed. Cutting production starts with the receipt
of the inspected raw materials, production orders and graded patterns and finishes when bundles of cut work
are issued for sewing. The total process has four stages.

(1). Planning (2). Spreading (3). Cutting (4). Preparation for sewing.

Production Process in cutting room

Planning

The inputs to this function are the cut order plan, which contains detailedinstructions regarding the cutting
markers to be planned and/or copied fromexisting markers, and a graded set of patterns for the style to be cut.
The gradedset of patterns can be cut out in a pattern paper or may exist in the memory of adedicated
computer.The operation itself consists of planning the layout of the pattern components soas to ensure the
most economical use of the materials and can be performed byone of three methods.(1).The marker planner
uses full size patterns and arranges them in the mosteconomical fashion on marker paper. This is specially
printed paper havingsymbols on it which enable the marker planner to visually control the positioningof
components according to their specified grain lines.(2).The full-size patterns are reduced, generally to a 1:5
scale, to facilitate thework of the marker planner. The miniature patterns are then arranged on aplanning
board with the cloth width represented at the same scale. When themarker has been planned it is
photographed, and this image is used as a guidefor preparing the full size marker.(3).Computerized systems are
used and the marker planner works interactivelywith the system to plan the markers, which can then be used
for manual orcomputer controlled cutting.Markers can be produced on a paper which is fixed the spread with
the pins orstaples, or on adhesive paper which is heat-sealed to the top ply of the spread.For computerized
cutting, the marker is held in position by the vacuum used tocompress the spread and keep it stable.

2.2. Spreading

This is the preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of clothone on the top of another in a
pre-determined direction and relationship betweenthe right and the wrong side of the cloth. The composition
of each spread, i.e. thenumber of plies of each color, is obtained from the cut order plan.The spreads can be of
two basic types.

(1). Flat Spreads - All plies are of the same length

(2). Stepped Spreads This, as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step having the
same length. A stepped spread is generally used when for some reason the imbalance between the quantities
to be cut precludes the use of the flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a
stepped spread if it is needed

Spreading itself can be a completely manual operation or can be performed by powered machines of various
levels of technology, of which some of the main features are

(A). Blot Drive This is a mechanism which ensures that the fabric is spread with the minimum amount of
tension by unwinding the fabric at exactly the same speed of the machine is moving.

(B). Loading On a modern machines, this is a mechanical process where by rolls of the cloth stored in a
paternoster (magazine) at the end of the table can be transferred to the machine according to a
predetermined sequence or as selected by the operation.

(C). Alignment A photocell is used to sense when the alignment of the edge of a ply starting to vary and a
control motor automatically moves the roll of the cloth into the correct position.
(D). Ply Width Two photocells, one at each side of the machine, are indexed to the narrowest width of the
cloth which can be cut in the spread. If there is any deviation from the indexed width, the machine is
automatically stopped and an audible signal sounded.

(E). Cloth roll drive This is a cradle for holding the cloth and a group of powered conveyor belts which unroll
the cloth via circumferential feed. This method is generally used for problem fabrics that require very precise
control during spreading.

(F). Pattern matching An optical head is used to scan the pattern of the fabric and the sensory information is
fed into the control unit which synchronizes and co-ordinates the lateral and lineal movement of the cloth
during spreading.

(G).Programming It is possible to programmed spreading machines to perform automatically all of the major
elements in the spreading process. Theprogramme, which is prepared on the cad system, includes cloth roll
selection, loading, threading, spreading to given ply heights and lengths, etc.

(H).Defect Scanner This consists of a display monitor mounted on the side of the machine, linked to the
computerized marker planning system. When a cloth defect is discovered during spreading, its size and
position are digitized by a projector type cursor at the front of the spreading machine. The operator calls up by
the marker and the position of the defects on the marker is shown on the screen. The spreader then decides
on the most appropriate course of action, without the marker having to be laid on the spread.

(I).Operator comfort Most motorized machines are equipped with a platform on which the operator can
stand or sit while the machine is traversing the table. A spreading machine is a important tool in the cutting
room because it affects the efficient use of the both manpower and materials

Cutting

This is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garments. Of all the
operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be
done to rectify seriousmistakes.Cutting requires the use of the different types of tools and equipment and
some of the their main features are

(1). Powered Scissors These are used for cutting one or two plies and are often used in the sampling room.

(2). Round Knife This is a very fast machine, excellent for cutting the straight lines or gradual curves. Blade
sizes range from 4 cm to 20 cm in diameter and the effective cutting height is about 40% of the blade diameter.

(3). Straight Knife The workhorse of most of the cutting rooms, the straight knife, if correctly used, is versatile
and accurate enough for most of the purposes.

(4). Band Knife The narrow blade of this machine allows the finest of the shapes to be cut very accurately.
Some band knife machines have air flotation tables which support the block of work on a fine air cushion,
enabling the cutter to man oeuvre the work during cutting with the minimum disturbance to the plies
Servo assisted cutting This consists of a straight knife cutting machine onan articulated arm at the side of the
cutting table. The system has a servo-drivewhich enables the cutting machine to be moved easily in all
directions whilemaintaining the right angles between the blade and the table.

(6). Press cutting This process involves the use of a hydraulic press whichforces a shaped metal cutting die
through a pile of a material and is mostly usedin large quantities of small components have to be cut very
accurately. Presscutting is also often used for cutting many small components for leather andsuede garments.

(7). Computer Controlled cutting knives The input for this operation comesfrom the markers generated on a
computerized marker generating systems. Themarker data is transformed to the cutting unit by means of
tapes, floppy disks ordirectly from the marker planning system itself. Computerized cutting is six toeight times
faster than any type of manual method and cut components with aconsistent level of accuracy. Although a
computerized cutting system requires asubstantial initial investment, it is considered to be most effective
investment forlarge-scale cutting production. Less expensive systems are available for factorieshaving smaller
quantities to cut and these systems also pay their way
- 21 -

2.4. Preparation for Sewing

The next groups of operations are concerned with preparing the cut componentsfor sewing, and include the
following.

2.4.1. Position Marking

When required, this operation marks components with guides for sewing andother operations. Drill marker
can be used for marking the pocket placementpositions, dart lengths etc. The mark itself can be a very small
hole or a markmade by a chalk based liquid taken through the spread by the drill flutes.

2.4.2. Shade Marking

This operation ensures that the components cut from different shades of thesame colour do not get mixed up
during the assembly process. Every componentfor one garment is marked with a unique number, usually
printed on a small ticketwhich is stuck on the component.

2.4.3. Bundle preparation

Bundles of cut work are prepared according to the size, color and quantities, theiractual composition
determined by the requirements of the sewing room. Forexample, all the cut components for one bundle of
garments can be packed intoone box, or each of the major components packed in its own container ready tobe
issued to different preparation and sub-assembly sections in the factory.Alternatively, if unit production
systems are used, the components for singlegarments can be loaded directly into the system from the cutting
table.

2.4.4. Bundle tickets

These tickets identify each bundle and in themselves play an important role onproduction planning and control
for sewing and finishing sections. The ticketsthemselves can be alphanumeric form or bar-coded, and in both
cases they canbe computer generated.

MARKER MAKING MODES & METHODS

MARKER EFFICIENCY,COMPUTERIZED MARKER MAKING,CARBON DUPLICATING,SPLICING,NAP EITHER

WAY,OPEN AND CLOSED MARKERS

Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process. Traditionalmanufacturers manage the process of
marker making in-house. By retainingstrict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as
low aspossible. Controlling this step also permits them to ensure that the issues thataffect quality will be given
proper attention. These include placing patterns ongrain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details
such as drill holes andnotches. Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, thecompany
may save or waste thousands of dollars a year. Spreading and cuttingprocess fabric as it is received from the
textile mill into cut parts ready for sewing.The methods chosen for these steps have a direct effect on the
quality and costof the finished garment.It is essential that the designer, product developer, and marketing
decision makerunderstand that choices made on the nature of the fabric, and the fashion designwill directly
affect the cost of the spreading, and cutting process needed for thatstyle. Fabric and garment decisions will
affect the quality achieved in thespreading process as well. The axiom

Quality Costs Money is clearly found in

the marking, spreading and cutting processes. There is a direct relationshipbetween the methods chosen and
the time needed to achieve varying degrees ofquality.In spreading and cutting, volume is also a key to reduced
costs. The greater thevolume produced (within the limits of the process), the lower will be the per-unitcost.
Therefore, the focus of technology is to increase the number of plies thatcan be spread and cut in one cycle, or
to increase the speed with which thespreading and/or cutting takes place.

3.1. Marker makingGeneral Description of a marker:

A marker is the layout of patterns on the top layer of fabric (which guides thecutter). In order to make a
marker, the usable width of the fabric to be spread andcut must be known, and a full set of pattern pieces for
all the sizes must be onhand. The marker is usually traced on dotted paper (if made by hand), or printedon
plain white paper that is marginally wider than the width of the fabric. For

mens suiting and certain other applications, the marker is traced on the top layer

of fabric which is turned face down whenever possible. The marker is consumed(destroyed) in the cutting
process.Under typical conditions, the marker is created for a single style, single fabric,and single fabric width.
Separate markers will be created for linings and/orinterfacings if they are required for the style. The legend at
the beginning end ofthe marker contains this information, as well as the size/quantity breakdown, theintended
fabric spreading mode, and the marker efficiency.In the preparation of a marker, the patterns are oriented on-
grain, and areinterlocked as closely together as possible without overlapping. The MarkerMaker will lock the
patterns together where the scoop of one pattern will fit theprojection of another in order to ultimately get
the patterns as close as possible,using up all possible open spaces between the patterns. The closer the
patternscan be placed, the more efficient the marker is.In the cutting process, the paper marker pattern is left
on top of each cut bundleof parts. In the creation of the marker, on every pattern piece, the marker makerwill
write the style number, and size of that particular part to act as a bundleidentifier, telling the bundle
preparation personnel what each part is.

*A marker making is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern piecesfor specific style and the sizes to be
cut from a single spread.

*Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout ofthe pattern pieces for specific style,
fabric, and distribution of sizes.

*The process of arranging the pattern pieces in the most efficient wayrequires time, skill and concentration.
*Markers may be made by manually tracing the master patterns onto fabric or paper or by manipulating and
plotting the computerized pattern images.

3.1.1. Traditional vs. Modern Methods

The process of marker making has not changed since the industrial revolution(the advent of multi-ply cutting).
The basic concept of achieving the most efficient utilization of fabric by orienting the patterns as closely
together as possible is the

foundation of the process whether the marker is created with a full set of hardpaper patterns, or on a
computer screen. The use of computerized markermaking facilitates visualizing the entire marker better,
enables the saving of idealpattern layouts, and saves time in the generation process (printing the marker
vs.tracing every pattern by hand). More recently developed programs for markermaking on the computer are
available to pre-lay patterns into the markerfollowing placement rules. It is still up to a trained and experienced
marker makerto complete the process by making minor corrections to the computerized layout.

3.1.2. Manually produced markers

Manually produced markers may be created by arranging full size pattern pieceson the marker paper or
directly on the top ply of the fabric in a spread.

Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailors chalk.

Manual methods ofmarker making are time consuming and require a great deal of space. Full sizepieces must
be manipulated, adjusted, and readjusted on normal width of thefabric.Manually made markers are also
subject to errors and inconsistencies that mayoccur in grain variations, poor line definition, placement and
alignment of pieces,and omission of pieces.Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the
individual wholaid out marker and traced it.

3.1.3. Computerized marker making

Computerized marker making is the more accurate and provides the greatestopportunity for pattern
manipulation, marker efficiency, reuse of previously mademarkers, and shortest response time.Production
patterns may be developed on the computer and/or digitized orscanned into the computer. In addition,
parameters for markers are entered intothe computer from cutting orders.These might include style numbers,
size and distribution, and fabric width.Technicians manipulate pattern images on computer screens and
experimentwith various configuration to determine the best material utilization for themarker.Protective
devices are built into the programs to ensure grain line alignment andprevent overlapping or omission of the
pieces or other errors

Once markers have been planned and stored, they can be printed or recalledand modified for new cutting
orders.With newer marker making software, markers can be automatically created. Acomputer can
automatically develop up to seven different markers according tothe criteria set by the technician.Automated
marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements andfabric costs for designs prior to line
adoption.Interactive marker planning is morecommon and is the process by which theoperator plans markers
by interactingdirectly with the system through a VDUscreen. All the pattern pieces are displayedin miniature
on the top of the screen. In themiddle of the screen are the two horizontallines defining the marker width and
thevertical line at the left represent thebeginning of the marker. The right end isfor determining length of the
final marker.

The quality of the computerized marker planning is more consistent than that ofthe manual methods, because
instructions regarding grain lines are alwaysfollowed, the butting of pattern pieces are precise with no
overlapping, and thepattern count is automatic

a boon in complex markers.After planning the marker on the computer, the marker planner instructs
thecomputer to plot the marker automatically on the paper.

3.1.4. Plotting

Plotting is the process of drawing or printed pattern pieces or markers on paperso they can be reviewed or cut.
Computer driven plotters may draw patter pieces,graded nest of patterns, and/or markers with complete
annotation, depending onthe needs of the apparel firm. New multi-head jet plotters are much faster andcan
print variable line density and width, text identification information, and barcodes.Plotting may be the
bottleneck in the preproduction processes if a firm runs a lotof copies. Firms using computerized cutters may
need not paper markers toguide cutting process and therefore may only print identification information
forbundles.The plotter operates in dual axis system; the X direction is determined by a beam

travelling along the table, and the Y direction by the pens travel along the beam.

The process requires minimum attention since the plotter uses a continuous rollof paper and a series of
markers can be plotted continuously. In practice plottersare commonly left to run overnight.If required markers
may be allowed to plot in a slight larger scale, such as 1%increase lengthwise, to allow for shrinkage on certain
fabrics. Reference copiesin miniature can also be plotted.

3.2. Non Computerization methods for copying markers

Some the methods for copying markers without the use of the computers
are1) Carbon Duplicating2) Spirit Duplicating3) Diazo photographic method.

3.2.1. Carbon Duplicating:

Carbon duplicating method is used when small numbers of copies are to bemade as the original is drawn.
Double sided carbon paper or special type ofpaper can be used.In this method, six to eight copies can be made
without too great a deteriorationin the fineness of the line.

Spirit Duplicating:

In Spirit Duplicating or hectograph carbon system, the master marker is drawnon the paper with the layer of
special hectograph paper underneath it. This papertransfers a blue line on the back of the master as it is
drawn. The master is thenused to make one copy at a time in a duplicating machine. The machine usesalcohol
to wet a plain white paper which is then passed with the master betweentwo rollers transferring lines onto the
copy.

3.2.3. Diazo photographic method:

The diazo photographic method makes as many copies of the markers areneeded, one at time, following the
drawing of a master marker. The mastermarker and light-sensitive paper are passed under high intensity of
ultravioletlight and the light

sensitive paper is developed using ammonia vapor. The linesand other markings on the master marker prevent
exposure to light sensitivepaper which forms the copy; when developed the lines remain visible.These copying
methods were widely used in the 1970s, but have been steadilyovertaken by the popularity by computerized
plotting. After computerized markerplanning, markers are plotted out as a required. This procedure has proved
farmore versatile and more appropriate for responsive manufacturing than any ofthese predecessors.

3.3. Dimensions of Markers

Markers are made to fit the cuttable widths of fabrics.Cuttable width is the useable portion of the fabric width.
Selvedges are often notuseable, and on printed fabric the design often begins an inch or so beyond theselvage;
thus these are not usable in the garments.If the marker is wider than the specified fabric, garment parts
located on the edgeof the marker will not be complete. Fabric is purchased by the width, but often itruns
wider or narrower than the required width. When the fabric width is grosslyinconsistent, fabrics in a lot may
be grouped by width and different markersproduced for each width.Using the extra width in planning markers
can save significant yardage orprevent recuts when fabric is narrower than ordered.Markers may be produced
in sections or blocks or be in continuous.

Blocked or Sectioned markers

Blocked or Sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style inone or two sizes. Sections may be
used separately or joined together to form anextended multi-size marker. Blocked or sectioned markers are
easier to visualize,plot, and handle, but they may not produce the best utilization of fabric.Sectioned markers
may be used to adjust the volume requirements for varioussizes or as a remnant marker. High volume blocks
can be placed on one end ofthe marker and low-volume blocks placed at the other end so the fabric can
bespread to correspond with the volume needed for each block. Blocking keepsgarment parts for one size in
close proximity, which facilitates bundling andhandling.Section markers are advantageous if there is end

to- end shade variations ofthe fabric. A stepped spread for a sectioned marker may consist of plies of
variedlength, spread at different heights. The most frequently used configuration for astepped spread consists
of group of plies that are spread the full length of themarker and another group of plies beginning at the
section line. Stepped spreadsare used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number of garments to
becut from each section of the marker.

3.3.2. Continuous Markers

Continuous Markers

contain all the pattern pieces for all sizes included in singlecutting. They may be lengthy and often require
more juggling of pattern pieces.Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape rather than by garment
size.Continuous markers often have better utilization because there is more flexibilityin grouping and
maneuvering large pieces and small pieces.

3.3.3. Splice Marks

Splice Marks

are planned into continuous markers to avoid excessive fabricwastage and incomplete pieces. Splice marks are
points in marker where fabricscan be cut and the next piece overlapped to maintain a continuous spread.Splice
marks may be one inch or several inches depending on the overlapneeded to accommodate the pattern pieces
in the area of the splice.

3.4. MARKER EFFICIENCY

Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of the totalfabric that is actually used in
the garment parts. The area not used in thegarment parts is waste. Marker efficiency depends on how tightly
the patternpieces fit together within the marker.The total surface area of the pattern pieces is compared to the
total area of themarker to calculate the percentage of the fabric that is used. This is determinedautomatically
by the marker making software.

- 29 -
If the marker making software is not available then the area of the each patternpiece is determined by a
planimeter

a mechanical device that calculates thesurface area as the outline of the pattern is traced.Factors that affect
marker efficiency are- Fabric characteristics- Shapes of the pattern pieces- Grain requirments

3.4.1. FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS

Fabric characteristics that affect the utilization

include- Difference in face and back- Lengthwise directionality- Crosswise symmetry- Need for matching of the
fabric design- Length of the design repeat- Fabric widthThese characteristics frequently limit the arrangement
of the pattern pieces.Matching fabric designs requires special marker preparation and extra piecegoods. Stripe
or plaid lines must be indicated on pattern pieces and markers foraccurate alignment and matching to
corresponding pieces. The greater thelength between repeats increases the potential for fabric waste.

3.4.2. Characteristics of Pattern Pieces

Characteristics of the pattern pieces may limit fabric utilization. Generally thefabric utilization percentage of
increases when a variety of garment sizes are used in the same marker and when the marker contains both
large and smallpieces.Smaller pieces can often be nested with larger pieces. The shape of the patternpieces
determine how close they can be fit together. Irregular shaped pieces aredifficult to fit together with other
pieces. Placement of large pattern pieces is less flexible and often dictates the placement of other pieces.

Patterns may be sometimes modified to increase the fabric

utilization.- Splitting the pattern pieces and creating a seam- Rounding or slanting corners- Reducing seam allo
wances and/or hem width- Adjusting pattern dimensions without noticeable change to fit and style- Adjusting
grain lines for hidden garment parts- Modifying grain lines specified by the designer

Grain Orientation

Grain line markings determine the placement of the pattern pieces relative to thewarp yarns in woven or wales
in knit fabrics. Pattern pieces with a similar grainorientation, if grouped together on the marker, generally
produce betterutilization.Combining several bias and straight grain pieces may not fit together as well ascreate
more fabric waste. Markers usually have good utilization when all patternpieces are on bias or all pieces are cut
on straight grain.

Firms standards for grain t

olerance may also affect the marker efficiency. Tiltingspecific pattern pieces 1 or 2 % may not be noticeable,
and it may increase fabricutilization noticeably. This practice can impart the fit and drape of the
finishedgarment but it will not be noticeable to the untrained eye. Computer markermaking programs will lock
in the grain orientation of each piece unless anoverride function is used to adjust them.

Fabric utilization standards

Firms often establish fabric utilization standards. Firms producing basics maystrive for 90 % to 97 % utilization,
while fashion firms may able to achieve only 80% to 85 %. It is important for the firms to document the
material utilization andvariances from the standards to monitor improvements or factors that impact
theutilization.

3.5. Marker quality

Accuracy is a major factor in marker quality. Complete data and precise lines areessential for cutters and
sewers to process the garment parts correctly.Information needed for each pattern piece includes size, style
number, and piecename or number. Lines must be accurate, consistent, fine, smooth and a preciseimage of the
production pattern. Computerized marker making is more preciseand eliminates many of the mistakes that
occur with hand-drawn markers. CADsystems are one of the first areas for a firm to invest in technology
because ofthe time savings and accuracy they provide. Lines are always consistent, piecesare not omitted, and
pieces are always on grain and facing the designateddirection unless an override command is used.The
omission of the pieces even the smallest one from the marker can createmajor problems and recutting. A
missing piece may not become apparent untilthe garment parts are prepared for sewing. By this time, it is
difficult to find thespecific pattern piece and identical fabric to recut the pieces. This is a commonproblem with
the manually made markers.

Types of Markers

Markers are defined by two parameters, which are noted in the legend at thebeginning of the marker. The first
parameter relates to how the patterns are usedin relation to the relative garment symmetry.

A. A mixed marker

is the most popular type of marker. When the garment isasymmetric, or for the purpose of obtaining good
efficiency, the mixed marker isused on fabric that is spread open and face up on the table. For most
wovenfabrics, and flat open knits, mixed markers offer the best utilization of fabricbecause the patterns are
placed wherever they fit best in the length of themarker.

B. An open marker

is the second most popular type of marker. When thegarment is asymmetric, or for the purpose of obtaining
the best quality from thespreading process, the open marker keeps pairs of parts (left and right) closetogether
in the length of the marker. The open marker is used on fabric that isspread open and face up on the table. For
most woven fabrics, and flat openknits, open markers offer the second best utilization of fabric.

C.The closed marker

is used under special circumstances. As only one half ofthe pattern set is used, the fabric spread on the table is

folded in its length and is

oriented face to face. After cutting, any one pattern piece would yield the left andright piece of the garment
when choosing a pair of consecutive plies. Styles thathave certain pattern pieces that cover the full width (a
one piece back versus aleft and right back pattern piece) can be oriented on the control fold of the marker(see
Spreading Closed Goods). Cutting through at the fold, yields a one-piecepart.

D. The closed-on-open marker

is similar to the closed marker. However, sincethere is no fold at the selvedge, the pattern pieces must be
either left or right.Styles with one-piece parts like a one piece back panel can not be made using aclosed-on-
open marker without blocking and re-laying. For any one part in themarker, a pair of consecutive plies of fabric
(spread face to face) produces theleft and right pieces of the garment. Fabric dyeing must be consistent to use
thismethod, as garments will be constructed of two consecutive plies of fabric.

E. Blocking and re-laying

in the spreading process may be used in conjunctionwith a closed-on-open marker. To take advantage of a
symmetric garment, andplacing a half set of patterns in the marker, when one pattern in the garment isfull
body width (rather than left and right patterns), for two consecutive sizes inthe marker, only the larger pattern
of the two is placed in the marker. After thepart is cut, the cut block for the pattern is divided in half, and the
smaller sizepattern of that part is placed on the second half. This is then recut to the smallersize.

Single Section Marker.

When the patterns of all the different sizes arescattered throughout the full length of the marker (placed
wherever they fit thebest), the marker is known as non-sectional or single section marker. Thismarker type has
the highest utilization of fabric (highest efficiency) as the highestquantities of patterns (of all marker types) are
fitted together. The marker oftenhas multiple sets of the most commonly ordered sizes depending on the ratio
ofsizes ordered.

G. Section Marker.

Markers with more than one section, known as sectionmarkers are utilized when the order ratios are unknown
in advance. The sectionmarker facilitates producing different order ratios using the same marker throughstep
spreading. Although at the lowest efficiency, single-section markers permittotal flexibility in matching varied
order ratios.

H. Grain.

Patterns are placed in the marker with the grain line on the pattern,oriented parallel to the fabric grain
(defined by the selvedge line). Thisconvention is only deviated from slightly (only on solid fabrics), when
absolutelynecessary, to interlock patterns reducing waste. The grain directly affectsgarment quality so is very
important.The form of the fabric and whether it is symmetrical and /or directional determinethe appropriate
type of the marker for a style. Markers may be open or closeddepending on the form in which the fabric
is presented for cutting.Rolled fabrics are open and flat when spread. Markers for this type of spreadrequire
full- pattern pieces for each part to be cut. Markers made with the fullpattern pieces are called

open markers
Tubular knit fabrics are closed on the both edges and therefore require patternpieces that utilize the folds.
Markers made with the half pattern pieces for layingalong the folds of the tube are called as

closed markers.

Marker makers must also consider the symmetry (side to side) and directionality(end to end) differences in the
fabric. Symmetric fabrics are the same side toside. Asymmetric fabrics, such as border prints are different side
to side. NonDirectional fabrics are the same end to end. Directional fabrics are different endto end

3.7. Marker Making Modes

The second parameter for defining marker type is the mode. Markers areprepared in one of several modes.
The direction of the nap is used to define themode of spreading. Fabric is naturally rolled, under most
circumstances, with the

down direction of the nap toward the open

end of the roll of fabric.

The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W)

The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern

placed with the down direction of the

pattern in the same direction. This mode isnecessary for fabrics that are asymmetric. All patterns are placed
on-grain, and

in the down

direction, which is usually toward the left edge (starting point wherethe legend is written). The Nap/One/ Way
marker is the highest quality but leastefficient of the three nap directions for a marker.

3.7.2. The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W)

The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is norestriction of which way the
pattern are oriented. The patterns may be oriented

either down or up, placed wherever

they fit best, only making sure that thepatterns are on-grain. The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most
efficientmode yielding the highest fabric utilization. This Mode assumes consistent (dye)color in the length and
width of the goods. Nap/ Either/ Way also requires thefabric be symmetric.

3.7.3. The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D)

The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not
as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker. In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes
of patterns are oriented inapposite directions. Should the fabric have slight variations in shade, the patterns
are placed where the left and right pairs of parts are located close together in the length of the marker. This
method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.

3.8. Defining Markers

Markers are defined by identifying the mode and preparation. For example: a marker with all patterns facing in
one direction for asymmetric fabric, for an asymmetric garment with all the parts (left and right pattern
pieces)is Nap/One/Way Mixed (N/O/W Mixed) marker.

A marker with the patterns oriented randomly in both directions made for asymmetric garment with half the
set of patterns for symmetric fabric with a fold onone or both selvedges, is Nap/Either/ Way Closed (N/E/W/
Closed)

3.9. Constructing Markers

A Marker is made by placing pattern after pattern into the marker space. This space defines the fabric that will
be utilized in the lay. The space is defined by the following components which are common to all markers.1.

The two Selvedge Lines

are drawn parallel to the edge of the cutting table. The distance between the selvedges denotes the minimum
usable width of the fabric. If the fabric were 60 inches wide, the width between the selvedge lines would
(usually) be no wider than 59 inches.

2.The Beginning Line is at the left end of the marker as seen by the marker maker/spreader. This line is
perpendicular to the selvedge and denotes the beginning point of the marker. Usually 18 to 24 inches of paper
are leftat the left end before the marker to accommodate the legend.

3. The End Line

is placed at the end of the marker (opposite the Beginning Line). This line is drawn across the width of the
marker and is located after the extent of the last pattern Additional length may be added to the end to
accommodate the fabric allowance for end cutting or the use of catchers.

4. Splice Marks- Splice marks are placed along the control selvedge (closest to the spreader). These facilitate
the overlapping of fabric needed when a roll of fabric runs out, or when damage in the fabric must be
eliminated.

a. Damage Control Splice Marks are placed along the entire length of the marker. Wherever the patterns in the
marker meet in what appears to be a natural break across the width of the marker, the damage control splice
mark is placed along the selvedge. The damage control splice mark is most effective at saving wasted fabric
when it is as small as possible, and given the layout of the patterns is placed at frequent intervals in the marker
length.
B.Controlling Damages using Splice Marks: In use, when the spreader comes across a damage in the fabric,
they would cut off the fabric, just past the damage in the direction of spreading. Then, locating the last splice
mark passed in the direction of spread, the spreader would cut off the last ply of fabric at the splice
mark(perpendicular line) closest to the (just) cut off end. The spreader then pulls back the fabric to the splice
mark closest to the starting point of the ply (the first perpendicular line passed).

The spreader would then continue spreading at that point. The overlap is only counted as one pass (ply). The
fabric removed in this process is called damages. Usually the yardage lost due to damages is recorded, and
ultimately may be considered to increase the cost of fabric. This is fabric that was purchased, but not utilized
for garments, thus increasing the cost of the process.

C.section (Splice) Marks are places in any section marker. Section marks may be used for damage control in
the same manner as splice marks for damage control. The section mark is usually small in size, covering only
one inch before the section line, and one inch after the section line.

Legend.

The legend is used to provide the critical information about themarker. Usually placed at the beginning (and
often the end) of the marker,the legend contains the reference information about the marker. Prior
tospreading, it is critical for the spreader to check the legend against thecutting order to ensure that the
correct style number, fabric type, width,and ratio for the order is about to be spread6.

Placement Rules.

When the patterns are placed, the marker maker willfollow several rules. First, the patterns are oriented so the
grain line on thepattern is parallel to the selvedge line. The patterns will be oriented withthe nap direction as
specified by the marker mode. The patterns will beinterlocked as efficiently as possible in order to waste the
least amount offabric. The patterns will be placed from largest to smallest, as this is themost efficient way to
create a marker, causing the least amount of patternmanipulation as necessary. Small patterns are placed
whenever possiblein the spaces between the larger patterns. The cutting method is

considered when interlocking patterns to prevent impossible cutting

situations.

3.10. Use of the Marker after Cutting.

Once the spread is cut, the marker paper serves as a critical source ofinformation for every cut bundle of parts.
With the style number, and size, thebundle is easily identified and matched up correctly with the other parts to
makecorrect garments. The cut paper of the marker is also used for quality control.Comparing the paper
(which should be saved in the sort term) with the originalpatterns, it is possible to check the accuracy of
cutting.

3.11. Computerized Marker Making

Computerized Marker Making has been around for over thirty years. The method requires an experienced
marker maker to place the patterns correctly in the marker. The marker maker works at a computer monitor
rather than with full sets of hard paper patterns, and all manipulation is done on the computer screen rather
than by tracing the of the pattern patterns onto the full size marker paper on the cutting table. There are many
advantages in computerized marker making

i. The marker maker has a view of the entire marker at one time.

ii. Infinite repositioning of the patterns is possible easily.

iii. Tracing around the patterns is eliminated

Iv.Efficiency is calculated on-the-fly as patterns are placed.

v. The marker is saved in computer memory eliminating the need for a large marker library

vi. Full sets of graded pattern on hard paper are unnecessary. Once thesample size pattern is digitized, grading
is performed automatically according to pre-installed grade rules

viiiMarkers can be created in one location, and electronically transmittedanywhere in the world.

viii. Variances in fabric width can be quickly accommodated with markersmade specific to the fabric width

ix.New systems can automatically do a rough marker which would only require the marker maker to adjust
manually.

3.12. Stripes and Plaids

Stripes and Plaids require special marking, spreading and cutting and bundling. In fashion, vertical stripes are
often expected to match at several points depending on the price point. Across the center front, from the
pocket to the body, at the shoulder, at the yoke, and, sometimes from the collar to the body. Horizontal stripes
will match at the side seam, across the center front, from the sleeve to the body, across a pocket, and across a
center back seam.

i. Plaids require matching in the horizontal as well as the vertical direction.

ii. How the stripe/plaid marker is made. As it is impossible to place a pocket literally on top of a
front panel in the marker, the pattern is placed further down the length of the marker in a ocation
that matches the stripe or plaid repeat. Markers for stripes and plaids start with patterns that are
marked with a stripe registration line which indicated a control point in the stripe, with
information on the width of the repeat. The marker is scored in the length (and width for plaids)
with a line at the beginning of every repeat. When patterns are placed in the marker, they must be
oriented by the marker maker to match up with the repeat on the marker.

3.13. Marker Making Guidelines

There are some General Rules of Thumb that apply to the marker makingprocess.
1. Maximize the fabric width. The wider the fabric is, the more efficient the marker will be, increasing the
fabric utilization.

2. Maximize the overall quantity of parts in the marker. The greater the number of parts in the marker, the
greater the Efficiency as parts will lock better if there are more of them.

3. Maximize the overall quantity and variety of sizes in the marker; widely different sizes of patterns fit
together better. More sizes in the marker, offers more opportunities for the patterns to match and interlock
better.

4. Maximize the overall quantity of pattern sets in the marker, like the overall quantity of parts offers more
chances for the patterns to lock together better.

Some General Terms and Definitions

a)

Dotted paper

: Thin paper with

marks at 1 by 1 intersection points

in agrid parallel to the long edge of the paper, and perpendicular across thewidth of the paper. The paper is

available in widths of 54 to 140 in

increments, and in lengths of 100 to 1,000 yards on a roll.b)

Legend:

The marker key

containing the style number, size /quantitybreakdown, marker mode and spreading mode, written at each end
of themarker.c)

Spreading mode

: The mode of spreading indicates the way in which thenap and face of the fabric is spread from one ply to the
next.d)

Marker efficiency

: The percentage of fabric used in patterns vs. the fabricwasted between the parts.e)
Bundle preparation:

Sorting, separating and marking the cut parts, andtying them into bundles for the sewing processf)

Mixed Marker:

A marker in which all the pattern pieces of a style areutilized. There is no restriction on where they can be
placed, as long asthey are placed on-grain.g)

Open Marker:

A marker in which all the pattern pieces of a style areutilized as pairs (all the left and right pattern pieces). The
Open markerpatterns are placed in pairs (left and right of the same size) to ensure thatif there are shade
differences in the length of the goods, parts of thegarment that are seen side by side will appear with the same
shade.h)

Closed Marker:

A marker in which half the pattern pieces of a style areutilized. Either the left half, or the right half of a pattern
pair is laid into themarker. When created for closed goods (folded in the length), oneselvedge is marked as the
folded edge.i)

Closed-on-open

: A marker with half of a set of patterns for each garment,placed on open fabric. Every part of the garment
must have correspondingleft and right patterns, or blocking and relaying is required. This mode isintended for
fabric spread face to face. j)

Utilization (See Marker efficiency)

: Fabric Utilization is the percentage offabric that is utilized by patterns in the marker. The more closely
thepatterns fit together, the higher the fabric utilization. Typical apparel fabricutilization ranges from 65% to
90% depending on the shape/ sizes of thepatterns, and on the marker mode.

Blocking and re-laying

: The process of spreading a part for two sizeswith the intention of splitting the block, and re-cutting the
smaller size outof half of the block.l)

Single section marker

: A marker with all the patterns of all the sizesneeded, placed wherever they will yield the most economical use
of fabric.m)

Section Marker

: A marker created with one or several sizes mixedtogether, separated from the other sizes by a section line
(across the fullwidth of the marker).n)
Step Spreading

: Is a spreading method for varying the number of unitsspread by size, where each section will have a different
number of fabriclayers under it.o) Each section usually has only one or two sets of each size patterns, andthe
variance in ply count appears as gradual steps when the fabric isspread on the table. Only the plies needed are
spread under each section.p)

Grain:

The natural warp direction of fabric. The grain is always parallel tothe selvedge of the fabric. In a garment, the
grain is most often alignedwith the vertical center line of the body.q)

Down nap direction

: As the garment is worn, the down direction is whenthe nap points toward the floor. When a nap naturally
hangs down, itreflects more light than when it is turned 180

r)

Mode:

The mode refers to the orientation of each layer in relation to theprevious layer.s)

Nap:

The surface of the technical face of the fabric has a nap, if, when thefabric is turned 180 degrees in the same
plane, the fabric looks different.This nap is the result of the fabric construction (such as velveteen, velvet,terry,
etc.), the result of fabric finishing techniques (surface treatment onsome microfiber textiles, or combing on
wools), or a print on the fabric.t)

Splice Mark:

Indicator on the control side selvedge, visible as a pair oflines perpendicular to the selvedge, drawn outside
the selvedge, with an Xbetween them. The splice mark

denotes the left and right ends of a

complete intersection where patterns in the length of the marker begin andend. In one pass of spreading,
overlapping at the splice mark ensures thatall the pattern pieces cut in that layer of fabric will be complete
parts

Spreading

Spreading fabric for cutting may be done in a variety of ways. These spreadingmodes describe the way in which
the face of the fabric will be oriented, and whatthe nap direction is from ply to ply. The choice of spreading
mode will affect thecost of spreading and the quality of the finished product (the result of the cutting).
Spreading quality

is achieved when any flaws in the face of the fabric can beidentified by the spreader (even if the fabric was pre-
inspected), and removed(either during the process of spreading, or marked for removal after spreading).The
highest levels of spreading quality are, therefore, achieved with spreadingmodes that permit

the face of the fabric to be up and visible to th

e spreader atall times.Understanding how fabric is spread facilitates understanding why the choice ofcertain
types of fabrics will increase or decrease the overall cost of the product.When quality problems are
encountered in fabric shade, they often are tracedback to the choice of spreading mode.

4.1. Choosing Spreading Modes.

The choice of spreading mode often dictates certain methods of fabric handlingand the choice of machinery
used for spreading. The availability of the properspreading equipment may restrict the choices of spreading
(and marker types)available for a particular facility (All spreading machines can Not spread allmodes of
spreading).

4.1.1. Face/ One/ Way, Nap/ One/ Way mode of spreading (F/O/W, N/O/W).

The highest quality ofspreading is achievedby the Face/ One/ Way, Nap/ One/ Waymode of spreading(F/O/W,
N/O/W).Each layer of fabric isspread with the faceup (usually) permittingthe spreader to seeall of the face of
thecloth to identify anyflaws in the fabric.The fabric is spread inone direction only,from the end of the table to
the beginning (Right to Left from the machine operators point of view).

This will ensure that there will be no problems with nap direction in the finished product. For this mode of
spreading, the patterns in an open marker are placed N/O/W. This is a slow method of spreading however

because after each layer is spread, the fabric is cut at the end (across the width of the table just past the
beginning of the marker), and the machine and operator transverse back to the opposite end of the table to
begin spreading the next layer of fabric(known as deadheading, a term borrowed from the trucking Industry
to mean traveling without a load). This process is repeated until all the plies needed are spread.

4.1.2. Face/ One/ Way, Nap/ Up/ and Down method spreading (F/O/WN/U/D).

The second highest level of spreading quality is possible with the Face/ One/ Way, Nap/ Up/ and Down method
of spreading (F/O/WN/ U/D). In this mode, the fabric is spread from the end of the table to the beginning.

At the beginning of the table, the spreader cuts the fabric across the width, then must rotate the roll of fabric
1800 (in the same plane). The spreader then continues spreading the fabric from the beginning back to the end
of the table where the fabric will be cut and rotated again. This process is repeated until all the plies needed
are spread. This mode requires that the fabric be symmetric, as alternating plies are placed in opposite
directions. Markers for this method are most often open, Nap/ Up/ Down to take advantage of asymmetric
fabric, and are more efficient (than Nap/One/Way). The marker may be Nap/ One/ Way although there will be
no gain in quality (the only gain would be more efficient spreading time)

4.1.3. Face to Face, Nap/ Up/ Down (F/F- N/U/D)

The most efficient (fastest) method of spreading is the second lowest quality method. Face to Face, Nap/ Up/
Down (F/F- N/U/D). For Symmetric fabrics, and moderate overall quality, this method of spreading is widely
popular. Starting at the end of the table, the spreader spreads the fabric to the beginning of the table.Without
cutting the end, the spreader folds over and weights the fabric end down, and begins spreading back toward
the end again.

For open, Nap/Either/ Way markers,this mode produce the lowest costof spreading and most efficient(least
costly) fabric consumption.The quality is low, as the face ofevery other ply is not visible to thespreader to see
and removedamages. This mode of spreadingalso facilitates the use of closedmarkers on open fabric, Nap/
Either/ Way, Nap/ Up/ Down or Nap/ One/ Way (most, moderate, and leastefficient respectively). This
moderequires the identification ofdamages parts during the sewing process by the sewing operators, or
qualitycontrol inspectors
.1.4. Face to Face, Nap/ One/ Way (F/F- N/O/W)

When fabric is asymmetric, theFace to Face, Nap/ One/ Waymode allows the use of an openor closed marker
on open fabricthat is napped or one-directional.The result of this mode is fabricthat is face to face,
whereconsecutive plies will yield pairsof parts (left and right). Thismethod is relatively slow, andproduces the
lowest quality, asthe face of every other ply is notvisible to the spreader. This modealso requires the
identification of damages parts during the sewing process bythe sewing operators, or quality control
inspectors.

4.1.5. Closed Face to Face, Nap/ One/ Way

Closed fabric is fabric that is folded in its length either due to the textile milling process (as with tubular knits),
or deliberately by the mill to facilitate the manufacturing process. (Very wide fabrics might be purchased
folded to enable the use of narrower tables for spreading that are already in place in the facility).

Closed Face to Face, Nap/ One/ Way

Spreading is the process where the spreader starts at the end of the table spreading the fabric (tubular or
folded and rolled) back to the beginning of the table. The spreader cuts across the fabric width past the marker
end, and then transverses back to the end of the table to start the process again. Two layers of fabric are laid
on the table in one pass, where both layers are Face/ Face

Folded fabrics facilitate the use of closed markers where the fold is utilized for parts that are single, in
conjunction with paired parts. (a single back panel pattern is folded in half, and laid on the edge of the fold.
Other, paired parts are placed in the open areas of the marker, and when cut, yield left and right pairs). Use of
the closed marker (half a set of patterns) speeds the cutting process, as it takes roughly half the time to cut half
asset of patterns. Quality, as other Face/ Face modes is moderate at best, as half the fabric spread is not
viewable by the spreader.

(Figure shows the spreading mode of; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W

.4.1.6. The Closed Face / Face, Nap/ Up/ and Down The Closed Face / Face, Nap/ Up/ and Down mode is
similar to the Closed Face to Face, Nap/ One/ Way mode except that after the first pass, the spreader does
not cut the fabric off at the beginning of the table. Instead, the fabric (two plies Face to Face) is folded over
and the spreader begins spreading back to the end of the table. This results in a Face to Face mode where pairs
of plies alternate up and down the table. As this method reverses the direction of the nap, the quality is lower.
Unless the nature of the nap or construction is such that in the end use of the product, the nap direction is not
noticeable by the consumer, this method would not be used. (See does it matter when fabric is

Upside down?)

(Figure shows the diagram of spreading mode Folded Fabric, Face to Face, NapUp and Down (F/F, N/U/D)).
Order Management

In order to manage cut quantities to match order quantities, there are severalstrategies used. The most
economical approach is to use a single section makerwhich contains patterns in the ratio that the style is
ordered in. Fabric is spread inmultiples of the ratio of the marker. Step spreading for a section marker is
donewhen the order ratio and quantity is controlled by the number of plies under oneset of patterns in each
section

4.2.1. Single Section Marker

A typical example is for the size range of extra small, small, medium, large andextra-large, there would be one
set of size extra small patterns, two sets of smallpatterns, three sets of medium patterns, two sets of large
patterns and one set ofextra-large patterns. Thus, there would be nine complete pattern sets in
themarker.Orders received in multiples of this ration XS/1, S/2, M/3, L/2, XL/1 would besatisfied by spreading
the required number of plies.If the orders are received in multiples of a different ratio, it is necessary to
createa different marker.

Section Spreading (Step Spread)

Section Spreading (Step Spread) is used for section markers where the quantityand ratio of garments cut is
determined by varying the number of plies spreadover each section.In most situations, the marker section
with the need for the greatest number ofplies is situated closest to the left (beginning point) of the
spread.Then each section by decreasing numbers of plies needed is located after thefirst going down the table.
For the first color, the plies needed for every sectionwould be spread down the length of the table.Then, for
the first (and second if needed, etc.,) sections, the additional plies

needed for the sections quantity are spread over just that section. Finally the

additional plies needed just for the first ply are spread on the first section

4.2.3. Spreading Stripes and Plaids

Stripes and Plaids require the management and orientation of each layer of fabricexactly over the next. This is
done by using Nails or Spreading Pins to alignevery ply.The Nails will be driven into the spreading table, and
located in the waste areasof the marker, at a given repeat line, between where the patterns will fall.The
modern approach is to use a programmed pin table that raises sets of pinsup through the table surface to
accomplish the same result as using nails.The spreader will count the number of stripes on the fabric to a given
repeatwhere the nail is located, then the spreader will push the fabric onto the nail atthe very edge of the
stripe, ensuring that the fabric lays flat. This is repeated allthe way down the table. By lining up one stripe, the
fabric will be cut uniformly, sothat the parts will align. Stripes are usually spread face up for the best
quality.Plaids are handled in much the same manner. For plaids, nails will also be usedacross the width of the
fabric, at every other repeat in the fabric pattern

4.2.4. Velvet and Velveteen

Velvet and Velveteen fabric are spread using special frames on which the fabricis put up.These frames are
designed to be mounted on manually operated spreadingmachines. Velvet and Velveteen is spread F/O/W,
N/O/W.The marker is open, N/O/W. Two spreaders are required. The process is slow, asthe spreaders must
unhook the selvedge at each corner (both sides of the roll),at all four corners of the velvet rack during
spreading.

4.2.5. Recordkeeping

During the Spreading process, the spreader records each ply spread on a cuttingticket to report the fabric
usage and actual number of plies and colors (shades)spread.Following the cutting order, the spreader will
record how many plies of fabric arespread per roll of fabric

The yardage not spread in ends and damages will also be recorded. The

spreader will collect the roll tickets and staple them to the cutting ticket as aconfirmation of having spread
each roll.

4.3. Advanced Technology for Spreading

4.3.1. Damage control mark sensors

One of the newest advances in spreading systems is the use of automaticsensors and marks on the piece goods
to identify damages in the fabric.Reflective tape is applied to the fabric selvedge during the pre
inspectionprocess. Automatic spreading machines are mounted with a sensor that detectsthe tape as it passes
through the electric edge control eye. The sensor stops thespreading machine permitting the spreader to
locate the damage and remove itduring the spreading process. This technology is particularly useful for
Face/ Face modes of spreading where the spreader cannot see the face of the fabricon every other ply. This
system can essentially assure the same spreadingquality from F/F as F/O/W spreading. Also, this system
permits higher spreadingspeeds as the spreader is not limited to how fast they can spread and seedamages at
the same time.

4.3.2. Air Flotation Tables

Air flotation Tables are cutting tables that have asystem of air jets mounted down the center of thetable. Air is
forced out under the lay permitting it tofloat on a cushion of air much like a hovercraft. Thisfacilitates moving
either a block, or the entire spreaddown the table. When used in conjunction withautomatic cutting systems,
this technology facilitatesspreading down the length of a long table, theneasily moving the entire spread to the
automaticcutting system.

4.3.3. The Vacuum Table

The Vacuum Table is a revolutionary technologyused in conjunction with servo cutting machines.Replacing the
use of cloth weights to keep thefabric in place during cutting, clear mylar plastic isspread over the entire lay
after the marker is inplace. Through small holes in the cutting tablesurface, air is sucked out of the lay.
Thiscompresses the lay and stabilizes it.

Heavy Roll Loaders

Heavy Roll Loaders are used when roll weights exceed 200 lbs per roll. Able tomanage rolls weighing over
1,200 lbs, these are used to lift the fabric rolls fromthe floor to the spreading machine.
4.3.5. Fully Automated Panel Cutting Systems

Fully Automated Panel Cutting Systems are usedfor home fashions items like table cloths, sheets,mattress
pads, napkins, bedding and curtains. TheSpuhl-Anderson Panel Cutter is one of thesesystems which
automatically pulls the fabric off theroll an exact measured distance, then cuts it offsquarely and accurately.

4.4. TECHNIQUES FOR SPREADING QUALITY

Removing Tension in the lay

Cutting at the Ends.

Reducing fabric waste at the ends

Fabric Control during Spreading:

Damage Removal

Ends and Damaged Goods

4.4.1. REMOVING TENSION IN THE LAY

An essential element of spreading is to relax tension in the fabric during the

Spreading process. Should there be any significant stretch in the fabric after

spreading, when the fabric is cut into parts, each part will shrink. Even 5% shrinkage is enough to change a
whole garment size

4.4.1.1. Relaxing overnight For most knit fabrics, the common practice is to let the entire lay relax on the
cutting table overnight. If the lay is significantly long, it may be cut into long blocks in the length of the goods,
allowing the shrinkage to occur more evenly.

4.4.1.2. Beating the Lay

To further ensure that the fabric is spread without tension, the practice of beating the lay is performed for
most hand-spread modes. The spreader takes a wooden yardstick and hits the top layer of fabric repeatedly
down the length of the table.
This will cause the fabric to jump or purposefully shrink back prior to laying

down the next ply.

Tight Selvedges

Depending on the milling method, some fabrics are finished where the selvedgeis shorter (tighter) than the
body of the goods.To relax the selvedge, the spreader will take a short knife and slit the selvedgeevery six or
twelve inches.The slits are cut into the goods only the depth of the selvedge, thus notdamaging the fabric for
the garments.

4.4.1.4. Positive fabric feed

Positive fabric feed in spreading machines is used on all automatic and semi-automatic spreading
machines.The positive feed roller is tacky enough to grip the cloth and pull the cloth off thefabric roll.The
positive feed roller feeds the fabric down toward the table at the same ratethat the spreading machine moves
down the table. This results in minimal or notension in the fabric on the table.

4.4.2. CUTTING AT THE ENDS

When spreading F/O/W, N/O/W, F/F, N/O/W, and F/O/W, N/U/D, it is necessaryto cut the fabric at the end of
each spread length.This can be accomplished by one of several methods

4.4.2.1. Use of Hand Shears

Hand Shears may be used to cut across the width of the table. For fabrics over

45 wide, the spreader will utilize an assist

ant working on the other side of thetable in, cutting from the opposite edge.

4.4.2.1. Wand mounted round knife

A wand mounted round knife is an electric shears connected to a wandapproximately 36 inches long.This
device permits one spreader to cut across the entire width of the fabric. Thiseliminates the need for another
spreader to work the other side of the cuttingtable (effectively cutting the spreading labor cost in half).If a
semi-automatic or automatic spreading machine is in use, the electric shearsis connected to, and stored on the
spreading machine.

4.4.2.2. Automatic Cutting Knife

Another method of cutting the fabric at the end is the Automatic Cutting Knife.Mounted on the table or
mounted on the spreading machine.The automatic cutting knife when activated will automatically cut across
the widthof the fabric in a straight line.

REDUCING FABRIC WASTE AT THE ENDS

The aforementioned methods of end cutting have a varied effect on fabricconsumption. Hand guided cutting
with shears will regularly cause the loss of

approximately 3 of fabric in every ply. This is because cutting by eye is

inaccurate. The spreader does not take the time to rule a line on the fabricexactly perpendicular to the
selvedge to cut the end. Using the electric shearsonly reduces this loss marginally, as it too, is hand guided.

The automatic cutting knife

reduces the loss of fabric at the ends, by reducing

the variance to less than 1 per ply.

The automatic cutting knife, mounted on the spreading machine will consistentlycut perpendicular to the
selvedge.The only loss my come due to natural skewing of the fabric which is marginal

4.4.4. Controlling Shades

In order to be assured that garments will not be sewn together from fabric ofdiffering shades, it is necessary to
separate shades and colors from roll to roll.When multiple colors of fabric (noticeable difference) are to be
spread, thespreader will alternate colors by roll. This permits easy shade separation aftercutting.This will result
in a

rainbow effect when looking at the cut edge of a bundle

before sorting. In sorting, all the plies of one shade become a single bundlewhich is marked, tied and sent to
the sewing room.When only one color is being spread, it is necessary to separate the fabricshades by roll using
tissue paper or wax paper.

4.4.4.1. Tissue Paper

In order to create a noticeable separation between varying shades of the samecolor in the spread, Tissue
Paper is used. The tissue separating paper on a rollthat is the width of the fabric, is spread out over the last ply
of one roll, before thefirst ply of the next roll of similar color (but different shade) is spread.After cutting, this
tissue paper (often a pale pink in color) is visible in the cutbundle

4.4.4.2. Wax paper

Wax Paper would be utilized as a shade separator in the case where the lay ishigh, and friction from the cutting
blade might burn or fuse the edges of the fabricnear the bottom of the lay.The wax paper would be applied the
same as the tissue paper describedpreviously.As the cutting machine cuts through the lay, small amounts of
the wax from thewax paper acts as a lubricant on the blade edge, reducing friction, thereforecooling the blade.

FABRIC CONTROL DURING SPREADING

Controlling the fabric during spreading is necessary for the cut parts to be of thehighest quality.Ideally, each
ply should be spread with the selvedge (or fold) superimposed oneatop another on the control edge, the fabric
should be square, flat and withouttension.

4.4.5.1. Smoothing fabric

Some fabric when delivered on the roll may have pleats folded in the goods onthe roll. The spreader must
straighten out those pleats before cutting, or the cutparts will be misshapen. During spreading it is also
necessary for the spreader to

open out any unnecessary folds, or creases, and to eliminate bubbles caused

by uneven tension in softer fabrics.

4.4.5.2. Skewing

Skewing

is when the fabric comes off the roll angled across the weft (width).This condition known as skewing is when
the weft at one selvedge is furtherdown the table than the other.This will cause the fabric to be off-grain in the
(across) cross body direction.A spreader can pull the goods slightly to minimize this problem, but most
often,management may decide not to spread skewed goods.

4.4.5.3. Bowing

Bowing

occurs when the cross-grain weft bends further down the table in thecenter of the goods only.This condition is
difficult to minimize, so in extreme cases, the fabric will berejected.

4.4.6. DAMAGE REMOVAL

The Spreader is the last quality control inspector to see the fabric before it is cutup into garments.

The mill would most often, wash their hands of responsibility for damages and

flaws once the fabric on the roll is cut.Therefore the spreader is expected to identify flaws in the fabric and
eithereliminate them during the spreading process, or mark them for removal later.

4.4.6.1. Damage Control Marks

Often, in the process of their own inspection procedure, the mill may markdamages in the fabric. These
markings are usually noted by either a short yarntied at the selvedge, or a plastic tag inserted in the selvedge.
The spreader willuse these selvedge marks in addition to inspecting all areas of the fabric to finddamages in
the cloth.

Larger manufacturers (or those with a history of problem goods) may pre-inspect100% of the fabric they will
use. In addition to marking the damages for thespreader, adjustments on fabric price may be negotiated with
the mill should thefabric be shown to have more damages than the mill quoted (for the price paid).A modern
approach to locating and removing damages in the fabric areAutomatic Selvedge Mark Detection Systems; See
Advanced TechnologyDamage Control Marking Sensors These systems improve the level of spreadingquality
achieved, and in less time

4.4.6.2. Damages in Closed Fabric

Closed fabric preparations pose a particular problem in detecting damages.At any given point in the spreading
process, the spreader cannot see the face ofevery other ply of fabric.For this fabric preparation, the loss to
damages is always greater. For lower costproducts, the decision is made that the spreader will not attempt to
eliminate thedamages unless they are profound. In this case, as in the manufacture of T-Shirts, the garments
are all handles the same, and are completely manufactured.In final inspection, the garments with damages in
them are separated out and

sold off as seconds.

In some product categories, seconds are a big business. Since underwear ismanufactured from tubular jersey
knit fabrics (closed preparation

Folded atboth edged) the spreader is never able to catch all the damages

4.4.6.3. Re-Cutting

Marking damages without removing them is a practice followed when the cost offabric is high.Rather than
removing the damages using splice marks, when the spreaderidentifies damage in the fabric, they may first roll
out the marker to see if thedamage falls in the waste area between parts in the marker.If the damage falls over
a garment part, the spreader will lay tissue over thegarment parts affected by the damage. After cutting,
bundle workers will see thetissue paper showing in the cut edge of the bundle.They will pull the affected ply,
and the cutter will select a piece of Ends fabric inthe same shade, and tracing the damaged part, then re-cut a
good part from the ends fabric. This good part will be replaced in the cut bundle.

4.4.7. ENDS AND DAMAGED GOODS

(1).Ends

are the remnants left at the end of a roll of fabric. Ends are un-usable in the main lay when they are too short
to extend over an entire section. However, since ends are good fabric, they may be utilized in splicing short
distances such as the small parts section of a marker. Ends may be used for re-cuts as well.

Damaged goods

are all the yardage of fabric that must be removed whensplicing to remove damaged fabric. Seldom completely
good fabric, partsof damaged goods may be usable for Splicing.(3).

Ends and Damages

must be recorded on the cutting ticket. The exactyardage of each is recorded as well. The cost of the Ends and
Damagesmust be added into the cost of manufacturing. These fabrics were paid for,but unusable for garments,
thus increasing the cost of each garmentproduced

4.4.8. Evaluating Spreading Cost

There is a direct relationship between spreading methods and time.The two cost calculations for spreading
are(1) The labor cost for the time to spread, and(2) The cost of fabric absorbed in the spreading of good
garments as well as thefabric cost of ends and damages.These costs may be calculated for each lay, or may be
applied to averages forspreading time and # garments per marker

4.4.8.1. Spreading Labor Cost:

Labor cost is calculated as the Cost per hour (loaded with an overhead and profit factor), multiplied by the
Average spreading time. This cost is divided by the number of garments produced in the spread.

Spreading Labor Cost =Labor Cost/hour X Spreading time# Garments /marker

4.4.8.2. Spreading vs. walking

When the spreader is deadheading as in the F/O/W- N/O/W and F/O/W- N/O/W method, the cost of spreading
will be almost double of the cost of F/F methods. Since labor time is directly related to spreading cost and
quality, the use of laborsaving devices is important to spreading.

4.4.8.3. The Cost of Ends and Damages

The Cost of Ends and Damages is calculated by taking the total yardage recorded for a lay due to these two
factors. This yardage is multiplied by the $ cost/ yard for purchasing these goods divided by the number of
garments spread in the lay. Even though ends are actually first quality fabric, they are un-usable in the spread.
The only way to recoup the cost of ends is to attempt to sell them off (salvage value).

Cost of Damages and Ends =# Yards lost to Damages & Ends * Fabric Cost/yard# Garments / marker

PREPARATION FOR CUTTING

Once the last ply of fabric is spread, the spreader will re-count the numbers ofplies reported on the cutting
ticket. Then the following additional steps areperformed to complete the preparation for cutting.(1).

Moving the spreading machine aside

:The spreader will park the Spreading Machine and remove catchers if theywere used. The spreading machine
must be parked back far enough fromthe lay to permit the cutter to work. When space is a premium,
thespreader may simply drive the machine further down the table, later tomove it back as the beginning of the
marker is cut and removed from thetable.

(2).
Facilitate shrinkage of the lay.

If the lay is knit, the lay would then be cut into blocks and left on the tableovernight to relax (shrink back).
These blocks are cut at natural splicesections in the lay. The cutter would cut between the parts across
thewidth of the goods. This releases the tension in the plies closest to thetable.

(3).Recheck the marker.

The marker is then placed on the spread. The control selvedge is alignedwith the selvedge on the control side.
The beginning line is aligned at thebeginning of the spread. The spreader will then recheck to see that
thefabric reaches the end of the marker, and that every ply of fabric is wideenough for the marker.

(4).Fastening the Marker to the Spread

There are several popular methods of fastening the marker to the lay offabric. It is necessary to keep the
marker from shifting during the cuttingprocess.a)

Cloth weights

are two to ten pound metal weights that hold the markerdown on the lay. Cloth weights are used whenever
other methods offastening the marker are not possible due to the nature of the fabric. Clothweights are often
used with low lays (slippery or expensive fabrics).b)

Lay tacks (sharp staples)

are the most common method of fastening themarker to the lay. Using a lay tacker a device similar to an open
paperstapler, the spreader will press lay tacks into the marker and upper layersof the fabric. This will stabilize
the lay and keep the marker in place. Forbest results (to prevent damaging the finished fabric parts) the
spreadershould apply the lay tacks to the waste areas between the parts. Use ofthe lay tacks on the parts is
only permissible if the fabric will not show pinholes as a result.

Straight T-pins

are used on softer woven fabrics such as wools and wool

blends, and terry cloth. These 1 to 3

long pins have a T shaped

head, and are driven down through the marker into the lay. T-pins moresecurely hold the marker and lay
together. Whereas if the lay tacks areplaced in the waste area, and discarded during the cutting process, T-
pinsmust be carefully removed after cutting to ensure that they do not travelwith the bundles to the cutting
room.d)

Light spray adhesive

is some times used in conjunction with clothweights. In this method, the underside of the marker is sprayed
with arubber based adhesive. This adhesive is tacky enough to hold the markerpaper to the top layer of fabric
in the lay, but is easily separated aftercutting. To protect the face of the top layer of fabric, the top layer must
beface down, so it is most often used with closed marker preparations.e)

Needle Plate

: The needle place is a quick set device to stabilize themarker and upper layers of fabric. The cutter positions
the place andpresses the needles into the fabric. Care must be taken to ensure that thepins do not penetrate
the body area of the patterns.f)

Cloth clamps

are manually set spring clips that hold the edge of a cutbundle square and prevents shifting of the plies. Cloth
clamps areparticularly useful when cutting small parts. Holding the clamp, the cuttercan keep their fingers
safely away from the cutting blade. After cutting apart away from the lay, the cloth clamp will permit the cutter
to keep thecut bundle intact to facilitate notching the inside edge of the bundle.g)

Mylar plastic and vacuum

: Servo cutting and computerized cuttingrequires a more secure way of holding fabric to the table. By
usingvacuum technology and mylar plastic to trap the air in the lay, the entirelay can be secured to the table.
Removing the air from between the pliescan also increase cutting productivity permitting taller spreading
heights(more plies) under the cutting machine. Vacuum does, however increasethe density of the lay, so
increased friction and heat buildup must beconsidered.

Fabric/Garment

Marker & Spreading Matrix

This matrix is a quick reference guide to marking and spreading modes. Ingeneral, the lesser quality modes are
faster, and therefore less costly than thehigher quality modes
To choose the optimal marker type and spreading mode, first identify thesymmetry characteristics of the fabric
and garment. Then Select the marker typeand Spreading mode for either High Quality, or for Lesser Quality.

Some common terms and definitions

a)

Spreading

: The process of repetitively unrolling one layer of cloth on topof another. Each layer is oriented so that one of
the selvedges issuperimposed one on top of the next. Care is given to ensure that thefabric is wrinkle free, and
that there is a minimum of tension (stretch) inthe fabric while spreading.b)

Ply

: refers to each layer of fabric in the spreading process. Even if fabric isfolded in half, and placed on the table, it
would be considered as two plies(made from one technical layer). This is clearer to understand if youconsider
that when cutting straight through the entire spread of cloth fromtop to bottom, each ply is counted
separately.c)

Spreading mode

: The orientation of the face of the fabric, and the napdirection as fabric is being spread on the cutting table.d)

Face
: The side of the fabric that is

intended to be the outside (side

visibleto the consumer) of the fabric. Although some fabrics look the same fromthe face to the back,

there is always a technical face.

Under mostcircumstances, when fabric is rolled at the mill, the face is closest to thetube, putting the back of
the cloth to the outside of the roll. This minimizesthe potential for getting dirt or dust on the face of the
outermost part of thefabric.e)

Cutting order

: A document which identifies the garment style, fabric,width, colors and quantities by size which need to be
spread. The markerto be used will be identified as well.f)

Cutting ticket

: A document used as a report of what was cut against theCutting order. In addition to the ACTUAL number of
garments cut by sizeand color, the Cutting ticket identifies yardages of each piece of ends anddamaged
fabric as a result of the spread. Roll identification ticketsconsumed will be attached to the cutting ticket. Often
in the industry, theCutting order and Cutting ticket are combined on one document.g)

Short knife

: Hand held knife with a blade that passes through the handle.A short amount of the blade is kept razor sharp
for cutting fabrics withoutsnagging.h)

Shade Separation

: Each roll of fabric may potentially be a slightlydifferent shade of the same color. Each shade is bundled
separately sogarments will be assembled of the same shade. Shades are separatedafter cutting, to prevent
mixing the shades when the bundles go to thesewing room.i)

Tissue paper:

is a very lightweight paper spread across the width of thefabric and down the length of the spread to separate
shades of fabric.

Wax paper: Like household wax paper, in the spreading process, wax paper the width of the fabric and the
length of the spread is used for shade separation, or just to lubricate the cutting machine blade during cutting.
Depending on how much lubrication is needed will determine how many layers of fabric are separated by a
layer of wax paper.k)

Seconds: Garments which contain a flaw, but are completely manufactured, are known as Seconds. This
denotes that the fabric or construction is not top (first) quality which commands the full wholesale price.
Seconds have a reduced value as completed garments, capable of being sold at flea markets, discounters,
etc.

Cutting

Cutting is the process of separating the garment parts from the body of the fabriclay. Accurate production
cutting is essential to producing garments that fit thesame as the approved sample garment. When cutting
multiple layers of fabric,several issues of accuracy and quality must be addressed. During the cuttingprocess,
the accuracy of the cut parts in relation to the original pattern is subjectto the stability of the fabric, the
movement of the fabric during cutting, the verticalaccuracy of the cutting edge as it cuts through the cloth, the
quality of the cutedge (clean cut without fraying, flagging or singing), and the accurate inclusion ofsewing
marks such as notches in the cut edge, and drill holes.

5.1. Hand Shears

Hand Shears are used when cutting samples and limited quantities of garments.The cutter must control the
shears keeping the cut edge layer adds to thedifficulty of accurate cutting, the patterns are often traced in

tailors chalk on the

top layer of fabric. Hand shears are limited to the cutters physical strength, butusually no more than two layers
of fabric due to the loss of accuracy as theshears lifts the fabric off the cutting table. This method is slow and
unproductive.

5.2. The Short Knife

The Short knife is an alternate method to hand shears. The short knife is still inuse in sloping and cutting
leather apparel. The short knife slices through thefabric, scoring the table in the process much the same way
as slicing vegetableson a cutting board in the kitchen. Fabrics cut this way must be heavily weighted,as the
short knife pushes as it cuts through the fabric, distorting multiple layers offabric. Ten to twelve layers of fabric
may be accurately cut this way. Sinceleather must be cut singly (one layer at a time to facilitate cutting around
thenatural flaws in each skin), the short knife is used. Either the patterns are tracedon each skin before cutting,
or a hard template (metal edged- wooden form) isused for each pattern and the cutter will place the template
down on the leatherbetween the flaws, and slice through the leather with the short knife. The shortknife is
one way that round knife cutters can accurately cut notches in the edgeof a taller lay of fabric.The short knife is
also used for sloping on dress shirts and other

customized

apparel where only a few layers of fabric are being cut at one time.

5.3. Electric Powered Cutting Machines

Electric powered cutting machines are used most often in mass production offashion apparel. Capable of
cutting through many plies of fabric, these machinesare used throughout the world. Cutting machines all have
inherent advantagesand disadvantages, and the correct choice of machine for the application (use)will yield
the best cutting quality. All electric powered cutting machines havesome common components. The electric
motor is located above the cuttingblade. The cutting blade is

mounted in a standard which supports the blade and

the weight of the motor. The base plate holds up the standard, and usually hasball bearing rollers that make it
easier for the cutter to move the machine abouton the cutting table. The large base plate passes below the lay
as the cuttingmachine is operated. To minimize distortion of the lay during cutting, the baseplate is made as
thin as possible.

5.3.1. The

Straight Knife or Up and Down

The Straight Knife or Up and Down

(Vertical Knife) is a machine with a straightvertical blade. Straight knives are

available from 3 to 14 tall, capable of cuttinglays from 2 to

13 in height. Depending on the den

sity of the fabric, thismay represent a wide range of plies. When encountering notches, the straightknife may
be used to cut notches by pushing the blade into the notch mark on thepatterns above each bundle.

5.3.2. The Round Knife

The round knife utilizes a circular blade that cuts cleanly through fabric much thesame way that a circular
wood saw cuts through wood. The blade at the cuttingedge rotates down toward the table continuously
providing a cleaner cut close tothe table surface. The straight knife chops the fabric down close to the
tablesurface. Additional advantages of the round knife are that it can cut withoutpushing the lay as it cuts,
facilitating cutting on slippery fabrics. Continuouslyslicing downward, it also makes cutting very dense fabrics
easier. Thedisadvantage of the round knife is that at the cutting edge, the blade is notvertical. Therefore,
cutting accuracy is sacrificed as the lay get higher.Both round knife and up and down knives are on-table
cutting methods.Ultimately, cutting accuracy is dependent upon the control that the cutter exertson the
machine to cut vertically, and to split the line of the marker while cutting.To achieve greater accuracy, more

advanced technology is required on thecutting table, or the f

abric may be spread with blocks for all or certain partsdesignated to be

cut off the cutting table

5.4. Die Cutting

Die Cutting is an off-table cutting method that provides cutting quality close toperfection. Steel rule dies used
most often in fashion manufacturing, are madewith a wooden form wrapped by a sharpened steel cutting
edge. These are lessexpensive than cast-steel dies. A die is required for every part in every size thatmust be
cut. This represents a large investment at over $100.00 per die. In thisprocess, Fabric blocks are included in the
marker for the parts to be cut by die.The blocks are shifted off the cutting table. At the cutting machine (known
as a

clicker), the dies are placed (by size, etc

. as needed.) down on the cloth, andthe machine head presses the dies down through the fabric lay. Every
partcomes out the same exact shape and size when die cut correctly. A limitation isthe height of the cutting
die. The tallest cutting die can only cut approximately 2

5.5. Band Knife

Band Knife Cutting is another off-table cutting method. The block of fabric ismoved to the band knife cutting
machine. The Band knife is similar to the butcheror wood working band saw. A continuous blade passes down
through a table topcutting surface. The operator guides the block of fabric to the blade. Cuttingaccuracy is
achieved by using thin wooden forms the shape of each pattern to becut. The band knife is particularly useful
for high pile fabrics like terry, or velvet,as well as soft knits.

5.6. Auxiliary Devices

5.6.1. Notchers

Notchers are either manual or electric machines used to make notches in theedge of a cut bundle. Unless
cutting notches while cutting with the up and downknife, notchers are necessary for creating notches.a)

Cold Notcher

. The Cold notcher is a manually operated, spring-loadeddevice with a short blade mounted on a plunger.
Placed at the edge of thebundle, the cutter lines the blade up with the notch. In a single strokedownward, the
notch is cut into the edge of all of the fabric plies.b)

Hot Notcher.

When the fabric is a soft weave or knit, the cut notch will belost in the edge fraying during handling each part.
To create a more lastingnotch, a hot notcher is used. The hot notch utilizes a vertical heated edgewhich burns a
notch into the edge of the bundle. The temperature iscontrolled, so as to leave a brown burn mark without
melting or doingexcessive damage to the fibers.c)

Ink Notcher

. The ink notcher is similar to the hot notcher Instead ofburning a notch into the edge of the fabric; this device
leaves a trace ofUV marking ink on the edge of the fabric. This ink is visible under UVlights at the sewing
station.
5.6.2. Cloth Drills

Cloth Drills are used when a mark is needed inside the body of a part to indicatethe point of a dart, location of
a pocket slash, or position of an interior componentsuch as a patch pocket, or appliqu. Drill holes are a more
productive alternativeto chalk marking parts individually.

a)The Cold drill works in a similar manner to a punch cutting a small circleof material as it bores down through
the layers of fabric. The shaft rotateslike a wood drill, cutting the hole as it moved vertically downward.

b)The Hot drill uses a solid shaft that is electrically heated. The drill leavesa burn mark to leave a lasting mark
on loose weaves and knits.

c)The String marking is a device that uses a needle that penetrates all the plies of the lay. The needle carries a
thin cord which is left in the fabric marking a drill hole location. This is used on very loosely knit or woven
fabrics where a not notch would damage the fabric. The sewing operator pinches each ply at the string,
holding the point as a reference for sewing.

5.6.3. Inside Slasher: The Inside Slasher is a device used to cut the inside

slash for interior slashpockets. The cut is entirely internal on the part, so cutting from the edge is
notpossible. The Inside Slasher has a double edge blade that reciprocates, and isinserted from above the part
bundle, where the part bundle is moved under theknife.

5.7. ADVANCED CUTTING SYSTEMS.

Advanced Cutting systems are labor saving, time saving systems that eitherincrease the cutters efficiency, or
can eliminate the cutter entirely. Most controlthe process mechanically, improving quality by improving the
consistency of theprocess over what (human) hand guided cutting can produce.

a. The Servo Cutting System

utilizes a spreading table with vacuum, and aswing-arm mounted cutting machine. As the cutting machine is
mounted fromabove, the standard and base plate can be significantly smaller. This results inless disturbance of
the lay during cutting. With the swing arm servo motoractivated, the cutter can cut through more dense fabrics
than the same cutter cando in one sitting.

b. Computerized Spreading/ Cutting Systems

Keeping pace with computersystem development, computerized grading, marking, spreading and
cuttingsystems are continuously evolving through technology. Three technologies existfor the cutting process,
automatic knife cutting, laser cutting and waterjet cutting. The two latter technologies, laser and water jet
cutting are limited to one or two layers of fabric, or one layer of leather. Computerized knife cutting is now
Capable of 2 (compressed by vacuum) in cutting height. For lower density fabrics such as knits, this
translates to almost 5 of fabric uncompressed. These systems utilize the computer made marker to directly
drive the cutting head. Therefore, no paper marker is needed. In place of the marker, either an unlined overlay
paper will be placed over the lay to identify the cut parts, or self stick labels would be applied to the top layer
of fabric over each cut part. Computer. Cutters have a cloth drill mounted on the cutting head, to facilitate
inserting drill holes whenever needed. The newest systems are tailored to the average cutting height.

c. Leather cutting- traditionally cut by short knife, Leather is today cut by laser cutting systems. These systems
contain scanners that are so sensitive that they scan each skin, and identify every flaw in the skin. The system
then plots the optimal placement of patterns on the skin, then drive the laser cutter to cut the patterns out
automatically.

5.8. Some common terms and definitions

a)Sloping: To make custom fit shirts from standard sizes, individual plies(up to 6 at a time) are placed on a hard
cutting surface. The parts areremarked with the fit for an individual consumer. The cutter then slopesthe
parts, re-cutting to the new measurements. The newly shaped partsbecome a custom fitted garment.

b)Off-Table cutting: cutting methods requiring that the fabric block bemoved from the cutting table to
the cutting system.

c)Cloth Drill: Electric device that bores a small hole through all the layers offabric. The cloth drill has a bubble
level to indicate that the shaft isperfectly vertical.

d)Computerized knife cutting systems: Utilizing a bare, double-edgedknife that penetrates all the fabric into a
bristle block table surface. hesesystems are directed by the computerized marker. The cutting surfacesupports
the fabric, but permits the blade to penetrate the surface, allowsvacuum to be used to hold the fabric to the
table. Clear thin Mylar holdsthe vacuum in, creating large amounts of holding force. The cutting headis
mounted on an automatic servo arm that spans across the table. Thefabric is either advanced automatically, or
the cutter moves down thetable.

e)Laser Cutting Systems: Computer guided Laser that is used to cut oneply at a time. Usually coupled with a
continuous feed system, this is anaccurate method of cutting. The laser vaporizes the fabric in its path.
Thelaser never requires sharpening as the knife cutting system does.

f)Spreading quality is achieved by spreading fabric with the controlselvedge aligned, the warp and weft on
grain, and every ply flat andsmooth. Spreading quality is further achieved by spreading the fabric witha
minimum of tension, and by removing all damages from the cut partsbefore they reach the sewing process.
Fabric width is maintained to bewider than the spreadable width of the marker.

Cutting parameters/requirements

Block Cutting for Stripes, Checks, Printing, Engineered stripes etc.

Introduction

One of the last manually

intensive practices in the cutting room is the cutting ofthe striped and checked fabric. Placing pattern pieces
accurately on the fabricimposes numerous problems on cutting room personal which, despite manyyears of
endeavor, automation has failed to solve.

6.1. Contribution to alignment difficulties

There are three main difficulties which affect the marker making and
spreadingprocess.1. Fabric dimensions show variations2. Superimposed plies must be matched3. Garment
pieces must be positioned accurately in relation to the fabricpattern.It is necessary to know about BOW and
SKEWNESS to understand the abovementioned difficulties.

6.1.1. BOW

It is resulted when the weft yarns are displaced from a line perpendicular to theselvedge and form one or
more arcs across the width of the fabric.

6.1.2. Skewness (Bias)

It is resulted when weft yarns are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the fabric edge.

Fabric Dimensions show variations

Problems associated with the bowing and skewing will lead to the matchingproblems during the spreading,
cutting and stitching. Width ways striped fabricsand checked fabrics are very good in showing these
distortions.They also show dimensional variations along the length of the fabric, and singleply exhibiting these
effects is shown in the figure. The distances between thepattern repeats can be measured easily to determine
the magnitude of theproblem. The differences arise wherever the fabric can be distorted during itsformation
and finishing.

6.1.4. Superimposed plies must be matched

In order to lay up these patterned fabrics, it is essential that the ply length bedetermined by the pattern and
not by the absolute length. Consequently, tosuperimpose successive plies, areas of fullness and tightness must
beaccommodated within the lay.

6.1.5. Garment Pieces must be positioned accurately in relation to the fabric pattern

Having layed up the fabric, a marker must be placed over the top ply. However,the marker is made to fit fabric
with the specification pattern repeat dimensions,and exact match may not occur. This means adjustments
must be mademanually during cutting.

The Constraints of the Garment Design

Garments are designed with the variety of matching positions. Some garmentsmay need matching only in the
neck and shoulder area; others may havematching side seams; yet others may be required to match wherever
possible.Each additional matching position adds to the complexity of the processing andin some cases the
fabric may be so distorted that the garment has to bedowngraded.It is sensible to scrutinize carefully all
specified matching positions. There shouldbe the minimum number necessary to achieve the desired quality.

6.3. Spreading Techniques for Striped and Checked materials

All procedures for handling striped and checked materials are time consumingand manually-intensive. In some
cases cutting individual plies may be bestmethod. However, spreading is generally practicable and makes
better use oflabour. A short overview is given here, to identify the constraints on the markerplanner.All
techniques are based on locating particular stripes or checks andsuperimposing plies in a controlled manner.
Lays are generally short.

6.3.1. Check Spikes

Spikes have a base about 2.5 cm in diameter, and a number of different lengthsare available. Important
matching points are located on the spikes to ensure thatthey are superimposed during spreading. These
alignment aids are inexpensiveand ensure that critical points are matched, but they can produce
localizeddistortions in the fabric during spreading. In addition, the exposed points canconstitute a safety
hazard, and the technique is time consuming.

6.3.2. Pinning Table

Pinning tables are a development of the check spike principle, and are designedto overcome some of the
drawbacks. The spreading table contains many holesthrough which pins can pass. The operator moves the pins
as necessary,beginning with the points just above the surface of the table. Each successive plyis positioned on
the table with the matching points on the pins. The operatorensures that the pins always protrude just above
the top ply.Spreading is generally by hand but machines may also be used. Pinning tablescan reduce spreading
times.

6.3.4. Folding

A method for processing relatively simple striped knitwear involves cutting andfolding panels of fabric. The
panel lengths are governed by the body and sleevedimensions. The fabric is folded to match the stripes and
compensate for anybow or skew that is present. From the folded lengths a small lay is built up, whichmay be
then cut. Circular knives have been successfully used with the shallow.

lays, and good results have been obtained with low ply die press cutters. Thetechnique is very effective at
minimizing problems of bow, but it is not soconvenient for styles requiring more complex marker plans.

6.3.5. Blocking out and relaying

The marker is planned with a relaying allowance around all pieces that must bematched. The fabric is spread as
through it were plain, and cut up into blocks.The blocks requiring matching are then relayed, often using a
small pinning table,so that all the superimposed plies are correctly positioned. The relayed blockscan be then
cut in the normal way. This method is useful if there are relativelyfew pieces requiring matching, as it can
reduce spreading times considerablyand permit longer markers. However, material costs must be carefully
watched,especially as pattern repeat lengths gets longer.These different spreading and cutting techniques must
be integrated with themarker planning. Technique Check Spikes and pinning table require the plannerto
produce a marker superimposed on the specification striped and checkedpattern, with matching positions
clearly marked; technique Folding does not usea paper marker, but the planner will state how many folds must
be made in orderto cut the various components of the garment; technique Blocking out andrelaying requires
the planner to introduce a pattern repeat allowance to selectedpieces marked.

6.4. Marker planning with striped and checked fabrics:

There is a great potential for patterned fabric to reduce marker utilization and it isimportant that every aspect
of manufacture is scrutinized carefully.The first opportunity for examination is at product development stage.
Theproduct design may be assessed for its manufacturability. Questions can beasked about possible wasteful
incompatibilitiesThe second opportunity to consider marker utilization is at the stage when theproduction
marker is prepared. The planner should minimize constraints imposedby matching by assessing critically all the
requirements for matching, and shouldalso increase the number of options in planning by increasing the
number ofsizes to be marked.The following points to note when planning a checked shirt marker.- Fronts
are best placed side by side so that the horizontal stripes in thegarment are exactly matched.- Pockets and top
cuffs are aligned with both horizontal and verticalstripes, but it is not necessary to match the bottom cuffs at
all.- Some flexibility may be introduced here by limiting matching only tovertical stripe.

It is particularly important to achieve a well- balanced appearance withthe collar, and it may be necessary to
block cut and relay the top collar.The bottom collar is hidden and does not require matching.

6.5. Potential for automation of cutting stripes and checked fabrics.

The variability in fabric dimensions is largely responsible for the limitedpenetration of automation into the area
of patterned fabrics. However, after manyyears of development work by machinery manufacturers, a route can
beidentified which offers the possibility of an automated solution. This is to lay andcut single ply fabric, with
visual sensing of the fabric pattern and adaptive controlof the positioning of the cutting head to ensure
matching.

Cut Order Planning

7.1. Introduction

Planning is an essential function of management. The work in each departmentin a production unit must be
coordinated if work is to flow smoothly, and themaster schedule provides the means to do this. A brief review
of planningconcepts is given here so that the constraints on cutting room activities can beidentified.Load and
capacity planning require the planner to quantify two variables

theload and the capacity

and from them to determine the time requirements formanufacture. The time required and the delivery dates
required by the customermust be satisfied.The load is the quantity of the work the factory is required to do,
measured instandard minutes or standard hours (although in some cases other units havebeen employed). The
load is determined using two sources of data; contractsthat have been placed with the company (or, in some
cases from forecasts ofdemand) and the costed work

content of the garments.Thus:

Load = (Contracts Size X work Content)contract 1+ (contract size X work Content)Contract 2

+ (contract size X work content)contract 3+ (etc. for all contracts).

The capacity is the amount of work the factory is capable of doing, measured in standard minutes or standard
hours per week. The capacity is often determined form factory records of previous performance, but this may
be accompanied by algorithmic approaches. In the latter case:

Weekly capacity = Number of operators X absenteeism factorX clock minutes per weekX average factory
efficiency factor.

The equation computes the actual number of operations available to producework, determine the clock
minutes worked per week, and finally uses an average factory efficiency figure to convert clock minutes to
standard minutes.
Time scales are determined by using the following equation:

Load = Weekly Capacity X number of weeks.

Once the number of weeks is known, the manufacturing resources can then be organized to produce the
contracted garments; i.e. a production schedule is prepared which balances the load and the capacity. Since
the bulk of the labor force in a clothing factory is in the sewing room, the sewing schedule must be the master
schedule and the reference point for all other schedules. Production planning personnel are then able to
determine the targets for sewing, cutting and fabric delivery.

7.1.1. Sewing schedule

The sewing schedule is designed to satisfy the contracts placed by the customer.

7.1.2. Cutting schedule

The cutting schedule gives the input necessary to achieve the sewing schedule.The cutting room exists to
satisfy the needs of the sewing room, so the cuttingschedule must be derived from the sewing schedule. It is
not based on thecutting room capacity but on the sewing room needs.Manufacturers often plan to have a little
spare capacity in the cutting room, but ifthe cutting schedule reveals that the resources are insufficient,
somemanagement decisions on capacity are necessary.

7.1.3. Fabric delivery schedule

The fabric delivery schedule provides the input necessary to achieve the cuttingschedule. It takes into account
the constraints of lead times, the stock levelrequired to buffer against unsatisfactory quality or late delivery
problems, andaims to minimize the costs of acquisition and storageConsequently scheduling in the cutting
room cannot be isolated from thescheduling of work through the whole factory. Further more, disruptions to
thecutting schedule are likely to affect subsequent stages of production. Cut orderplanning takes the targets
established by the cutting schedule and translatesthem to a loading plan of successive batches to the cutting
room, so that cuttingproceeds in the most efficient and cost effective way.

7.2. The issue of the cutting instructions

Prepare a cutting schedule to keep the sewing room in work

giving:- Costed length of fabric per lay;- Number of lays per week.

Solution

The first step is to determine the rating of the fabric usage, which is the markerlength per garment plus an
allowance for essential laying losses.

Rating of fabric usage = 9.00/6 X 102/100 = 1.53 m/garment.

We now consider some options that are open to management:

Plan A

Plan to cut 1 lay /day, to supply the sewing room on a daily basis.Length of the fabric required to produce 200
garments:

200 X 1.53m of fabric = 306m

Number of plies is

200/6 = 33.33

.Length of the fabric per lay

= 306 m

Number of lays per week= 5.

However, after noticing that the lays are shallow and wasteful in cutting labour,we go onto consider ways of
increasing the depths of the lays.

Plan B

Plan to cut all lays 60 plies deep.Number of garments per lay =

60 X 6 = 360 garments

360 garments require

360 X 1.53 m of fabric = 550.8m

Length of fabric per lay = approximately

550 m

Number of lays per week =3.

However, we now notice that this will produce 1080 garments instead of 1000 ina week. Some modification to
this cutting plan will be needed in future weeks andthere may be problems holding cut work in temporary
storage. Consequently, weconsider a third alternative, which is to cut as nearly possible the weekly target.

Plan C

Plan to cut 1000 garments / week approx. from 3 lays.Number of garments per lay =1000 /3 = 333.33

Number of plies per lay =333.33 /6 = 55.56.

It is not possible to cut exactly 1000 garments per week. The number of pliesmust be an integer. If the number
of plies is 56, the number of garments / lay is336. If the number of plies is 55, then the number of
garments/lay is 330. Let us consider cutting lays with 56 plies.
The cutting instructions control the issuing, spreading, cutting and workpreparation of each batch processed in
the cutting room. Decisions about the batch sizes are made after considering a number of factors, as illustrated
in thisworked example.

Worked example

The sewing room is scheduled to produce 200 garments per day. The marker is9m long, with six garments
marked. A figure of 2% is included in the costing to cover laying loses. The maximum lay depth is 60 plies

Length of the fabric required to lay 336 garments =

336 X 1.53= 514.08m

Length of fabric per lay =

514m

Number of lays per week =

We note that this plan gives a total of 1008 garments/week, a small differencefrom a target. A decision may
now be made about which option to select; achoice will be between the Plan B and Plan C depending upon the
local situation.This worked example shows that there are several ways of achieving a target,and that is the
function of the management to weigh the merits of differentoptions and to make decisions which promote
efficiency of action. The optimumbatch size is called the economic cut quantity. The function of cut order
planningis to authorize the issuing and processing of economic cut quantities.A general procedure for issuing
cutting instructions is as follows.(1). what is the target to be cut?- Analyze Data.(2). How can the target be
achieved at maximum cost?- Consider alterations(3). Make a decision- Issue instructions for economic cut
quantities

7.3. Economic cut quantities

The economic cut quantity will(1). Make the best use of the fabric(2). Make the best use of labour(3). Make
the best use of machinery and available spaces(4). Maintain a smooth flow of work to the sewing room.Some
of these goals considered in isolation may conflict, so the economic cutquantity must be seen as an optimum
which satisfies the overall goal. Thefollowing analysis of factors affecting lay dimensions explores these
conflicts andexplains how optimum decisions can be made.

7.3.1. Fabric waste at lay ends

It is inevitable that some fabric is wasted at the ends of every ply that is spread.This essential laying loss is
included in the rating of the fabric usage, because itis acknowledged that spreaders cannot lay up to exactly to
the ends of themarker. A realistic target for ends waste is 2cm per end or 4cm per ply. Thefollowing worked
example demonstrates the importance of controlling this area ofwaste.
- 71 -

Worked example (Part 1): the cost of lay ends waste.

A single garment marker 1.5m long has been prepared. By copying the marker and joining the copies together,
longer markers are made. This exercise considers the end waste when laying and cutting a fabric roll 200m
long. Remnants are laid aside and not used in the waste calculations.

Table shows waste calculations for four different lays, all having 4 cm waste per lay.
The number of plies (column 3) is determined very simply by multiplying the number of plies by the
ends waste per ply. When this figure is multiplied by the fabric cost (column 6), the cost of the ends
waste per lay is found.
The percentage ends waste per ply (column 5) is calculated by dividing the length of the ends per ply
by the length of the ply and multiplying the result by 100.
Columns 5 & 6 in the table should now be studied to determine trends.
The main conclusion is simple and clear; short lays are inherently wasteful in fabric, while longer lays
significantly reduce ends waste.

7.3.2. Labour Costs

It is customary to analyze labour costs in four categories:i. Marker Makingii. Spreadingiii.

Cuttingiv. Work PreparationOne might predict that there are economics of scale as lays get larger, and solabour
productivity might be expected to improve. While this is generally thecase, the situation is really quite complex
and it is often difficult to predict theeffect of changes in batch size in labour productivity. In the worked
examplewhich follows, labour costs for cutting only are considered.Single longer lays reduce ends waste, the
question must be asked; why are alllays not as long as possible? There will be many factors constraining the
length

of a lay, but let it be assumed here that there is a limit on the quantities ofgarments required; in which case,
lays will not necessarily be as long as possiblebecause of the greater cutting costs.

Worked Example
Using the lay details in the table given below, carry out some additionalcalculations to determine cutting costs.
It is known that the cutting time for a 6mmarker is one hour, and the cutter is paid Rs.35 per hour.The 6 m
marker has four garments marked and the cutting time is known to beone hour. Consequently, the cutting time
for the 3m marker (two garments) willbe half an hour, and the other cases are pro rata.The ends wastes per lay
figures are copied across from the table (previous table)and the final column has combined ends waste costs
and cutting costs.In this worked example, only cutting costs are calculated. Marker making costsare unchanged
because the same marker is used each time (copied and joinedtogether). Spreading costs are assumed to be
little changed, although there maybe small savings as the ply length increases. Work preparation costs
areconsidered to be unchanged.The final column in the table has some very interesting figures; there is now
aminimum cost when using the 6m marker. The trends of reducing ends wasteand increasing cutting costs
conflict, so an optimum length must be selected.This brings us again to the theme of this chapter; the objective
of the cuttingroom manager is to minimize the total costs by issuing economic cut quantities.

Note the following qualifying comments and observations;(1) This example is for fabric with a fixed length
of 200m. With different lengththe most economic lay size will change.(2) If longer lay lengths allow a better
marker plan with a better markerutilization, then further savings will be gained.(3) Building costs may need to
be considered. They may be greater withlonger lay lengths, particularly where there is a need for shade
control.(4) Remnant lengths get longer with longer lays and it is important formanagement to control the way
they are processed.

Marker Utilization

It is widely recognized that short markers have low utilizations and that improvedplans are possible by
increasing the number of garments marked. Because of thelarger number of pieces are available, longer
markers with a higher utilization cangenerally be planned? This is especially the case with multi-size lays.
However,there is diminishing rate of improvement in marker efficiency as the lengthincreases.As general
principle, longer lays allow greater scope for marker planning and theachievement of the higher marker
utilization. An extension of the previousworked examples illustrates the principles involved.

Worked Example (Improvements in marker utilization)

In parts 1 & 2 single garment markers were simply joined together to makelonger lays. However, by re-planning
the markers savings in material areexpected. In this particular case, the following information is
known.- 2% for a 2 garment markers;- 4% for a 3-4 garment markers;- 5% for a 5-8 garment markers.The single-
garment marker is 1.5 m long, and from the roll of 200mapproximately 130 garments are cut. (You can check
this by calculating thenumber of garments cut on each four lays, excluding remnants). The figure of130
garments is used in the table below, to allow a comparison of savings.The fabric cost is Rs.125/-meter.Column 3
has the new marker lengths, based on the estimated improvements inmarker utilization. From the savings per
garments are determined, andconsequently the cost savings for 130 garments.

Fabric Properties

Fabrics vary in thickness and hardness. Fifty plies of a worsted suiting may bethicker than 150 plies of cotton
poplin, with direct implications for the number ofplies that can be put down in a lay.Differences in their
resistance to cutting may also be apparent, and highresistances to the movement of a cutting knife can also
limit the depth of the lay.In some cases fabrics with high resistance to cutting produce considerable
heatenergy, which increases the temperature of the cutting blade. In extreme cases,thermoplastic materials
can fuse and join neighboring plies together. Reducingthe lay depth will certainly reduce the problems.Ten plies
of a foam-backed quilt may be thicker than 50 or 100 plies of otherfabrics, but cutting difficulties will not be
because the lay is hard, but because it iscompressible.

7.3.5. Cloth Availability

Cloth supply may be limited for several reasons. Obviously, if there is a limit onthe quantities available there
must be a limit on the batch size that can be issued.Or the contract size may be small, and the materials are
purchased specifically tosatisfy the contract.Some fabric may have been rejected after inspection because it is
faulty. Thisreduces the usable stock. A delivery of materials may be delayed and if bufferstock levels are
low, available materials are limited.

7.3.6. Machinery Dimensions

Laying up machines provide a practical limit on the lay depth because the feedrollers can be raised only a
predetermined height above the table. All the cuttingroom managers should be aware of the limits of their
spreading machinery.Straight knives are used for cutting out larger pieces and for blocking off units ofthe lay
for transportation to the band knife. The length of the blade limits thedepth of the lay that can be cut. This
constraint is not as significant as that of thelaying machine, as longer blade cutting knives can be purchased at
relatively lowcost.

7.3.7. Quality Constraints

With deep lays, blocks can get very heavy and more difficult to control duringband-knife cutting. This can result
in poor quality workmanship. The problem isreduced by spreading shallower lays. A longer term alternative is
to equip bandknives with air floatation, so the cutter does not have to use force to move to theblocks.
Smaller pieces cut from deep lays may be distorted. Consider the case ofshoulder inserts cut from 2 X 2 rib
knitted fabric. The block is compressible andthe inserts are only 2.5 cm wide. Slight tendencies for the block to
lean, result inthe bottom plies being cut a different size from the top ply. This is of criticalimportance in the
garment because the shoulder inserts are a feature whichcatches the eye of the customer. Inserts of variable
width result in substandardproducts.There are ways of overcoming the problem: the cutter should split the lay
andreduce the number of plies being cut, and should use a template to improvecontrol.As a general rule a
close watch should be kept on all fabrics which are easilydistorted: fabrics which are brushed, have a pile, are
laminated, etc.

7.3.8. Table Length

A table should be long enough to carry the largest lays likely to be required.When working out the appropriate
length, it should be remembered that thespace is needed for spreading machinery, for fabric awaiting laying-
up and forblocks of work awaiting band knife cutting.

7.3.9. Sewing Room Needs

We have previously noted that the activities of the cutting room are planned sothat the sewing room can be
adequately supplied with work. The cutting roomexists to satisfy the requirements of the sewing room. The
sewing room needsmust necessarily constrain the way work is processed through cutting, and thismay affect
economic cut quantities.

7.3.9.1. Regular supply of work

The cutting schedule aims to provide a regular supply of work as the sewingroom needs a continuous supply of
cut work, whereas the cutting room producesin large batches at discrete intervals. Consequently a degree of
coordination isneeded to ensure that the sewing room operators do not run out of work.If the sewing room
needs one bundle of cut work every 15 minutes, a cut workbuffer must be provided between the sewing room
and the cutting room. Thecutting room can then cut one lay per day and produce a batch of 32 bundles tofeed
into temporary storage areaSome practical implications for economic cut quantities may result from
thisconstraint, for although the manager may argue that deeper and larger lays maybe more efficient, the time
it takes to complete the lay (the throughput time in thecutting room) may make it impractical and disruptive.
In such a situation, larger lays can be cut only if the quantities of cut work intemporary storage between
cutting and sewing are proportionately large. Thisrequires more space for work in progress and close
supervision to ensure thatsewing room needs are being met.

7.3.9.2. Short term modifications

Cutting should be able to respond to short term modifications to the sewingschedule. The actual needs of the
production unit are governed by the customerrequirements. Consequently short term changes to the sewing
schedule mustlead to short term changes in cutting schedule. There is little point in stickingrigidly to a cutting
schedule if it is out of date with what the sewing room actuallyneeds.The sewing room activities may be
influenced by internal needs. For example, abottleneck has arisen on style A because of a faulty machine, and
six operativesare transferred from Style A and Style B. The cutting room must arrange a higherrate of cutting of
Style B and a reduced rate of Style A, until the bottleneck clears.The point to note is that the short term revised
needs may require a modified cutquantity that is less than economic.There are numerous hidden dangers here:
some production units have manypriority orders, which are effectively short term deviations from the
masterschedule. These do hinder the operation of cut order planning because there arefewer options of
putting orders together for greater efficiency.

Overview of factors affecting economic cut quantities

The figure below provides a concise summary of the factors discussed above.The marker utilization is given
prominence because of its importance in thecontrol of the material costs.
The Cut Order Plan

The cutting room manager issues lays to satisfy two requirements.(1). the targets given in the cutting
schedule(2). the most economic batch size (Economic cut quantity).In this section we will formulate cut order
plans for small-medium volume styled production, where the complex contract can be cut in relatively few
lays. In the following worked examples information is supplied on the contract details and the construction
affecting the lay dimensions. The aim of the exercises is to identify a cutting plan, as this step requires the most
thought and in many cases demands some creative thinking from the planner.

Cutting plan example 1

The contract details are as follows SIZE 10 12 14 16 18Quantity 40 90 80 25 25The constraints on lay
dimensions areMaximum lay height = 50 pliesMaximum lay length = 4 garments markedThe limit of four
garments marked may seem rather contrived, but it allows the concepts to be explained more easily. In
practice, lay lengths limits would be specified in meters. It is useful to determine the theoretical minimum
number of lays required to cut the contract: The maximum number of garments per lay is

4 X 50 = 200 garments
The number of garments required =

40 + 90 + 80 + 25 + 25 = 260 garments

Therefore the

Theoretical minimum number of lays = 260/200 = 1.3 lays.

This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the contract the best that is possible. However, it may be in
some cases that the numbers required do not permit a simple solution, so additional lays may be needed. If
the contract is to be cut at lowest cost the lays need to be as long and deep as possible. This reduces the
number of plies and ends waste, permits more options for obtaining marker plans with high utilizations, and
makes the best use of thelabour. Consequently, a target can be identified as follows.

An exact solution is possible. The reasoning was as follows.Attention was first given on the sizes requiring the
smallest number of garments,as there is only one way to cut them.Lay 1 must be 25 plies deep and the marker
must contain one garment of size 16and one garment of size 18. Attention was then directed to the remainder.
Thenext smallest number is 40 (for size 10), with double that number, required forsize 14. This suggested that
the second lay requires 40 plies, and that themarker has one garment of size 10 and two garments of size
14.The final step was to consider the size 12 garments, and the contracted numberscould be achieved exactly if
marker 1 had two garments marked and marker 2had one garment marked.Obviously these figures have been
selected to give an exact solution. If thenumber of size 18 garments were 30, the cut order plan would not look
as neat.This exercise demonstrates three important principles which can be used todetermine the cutting plan:
(1). Aim to maintain total costs (giving priority to material cost)(2). Start with lowest figures in the contract
(fewer options)(3). Exploit simple multiples between contracted quantities
Solution

1. The contract quantities are given in ratio, which has to be converted toabsolute figures.2. Single garment
marker lengths are given. The thinking behind this is thatdesigns costing have been made on each size, so this
data is available.The production markers have to yet to made, but when they are producedsavings of 5% are
anticipated.3. The maximum lay length is given in meters rather than in numbers ofgarments marked.

Step 1: Determine targets

Computerized Cut order planning

The worked examples in this chapter have been solved relatively easily using themanual methods. The number
of variables considered has been limited. As thesituation goes more complex it becomes progressively more
difficult to obtainsolutions which can be recognized optimum. It becomes more important to costour different
alternatives, and this may lead to the time-consuming processing ofdata.This is the area where the
computerization has been introduced to assist themanufacturer, and where existing databases can be assessed
to promoteintegration within the planning function.Figure shown below in the overview of computerized cut
order planning.
In figure the input file merely takes relevant data from other parts of themanagement information system and
makes it assessable to the cut orderplanning program. The marker selection algorithm identifies appropriate
markersto cut the contracts and explores the options by looking at the cost implications.The situation is
complicated by the fact that a number of markers are already inexistence, and some of these will be relevant
to making a decision.The marker inquiry program ranks markers according to their utilization so thatsome sort
of priority scheme can be operated. Interactive control is permitted,because production pressures may dictate
that existing markers must be usedwhenever possible to release capacity in the marker planning section. If
newmarkers have to be planned, a marker request document is produced whichrecords the details. Step 4
determines the optimum way of proceeding withcutting by considering the available resources in the cutting
room. Finally, cuttinginstructions are issued which give full details of the markers, the number of pliesto be
layed, the mode of the spreading and the table allocated to do the work.The knowledge base on computerized
cut order planning is rather limited and isdominated by general descriptions of commercial systems. None of
thedescriptions of commercial systems reveal how their marker selection algorithmactually works. As indicated
earlier, the selection of a cutting plan does requiresome creative thinking and the algorithmic approach may
not be appropriate. Amore suitable strategy for software development might be based on expertsystems, but
this would require detailed studies by a research team. This areaprovides considerable scope for innovative
thinking by knowledge engineers andsoftware developers.
Documentation Procedures and Control

(Documentation Procedures and Control such as Cutting Instruction issue, fabriccontrol charts etc.)

8.1. Introduction

The techniques for material control are initiated at the product development stageand continue to be applied
through the different processes until all piece goodshave been converted into garment panels. The focus of the
documentation andcontrol in cutting department is employed by the cutting room manager toinstruct,
monitor, and control the processing of fabric by cutting room personnel.Documentation during and after
cutting is designed to authorize the issuing of thematerials from the store, control the spreading, cutting and
bundling activities,facilitate the analysis of losses and quantify losses against costed values.Garment
manufacturers are probably more sophisticated and accurate inanalyzing direct labour costs and production
than in evaluating fabric utilizationperformance. It is therefore important to identify all factors affecting
fabricutilization and to apply techniques and controls consistently and systematically.

8.2. Fabric usage control: issue of materials

The details of these individual batches are entered on a cutting instruction, whichauthorizes the issue of the
fabric and provides essential information for spreadingand cutting. While the cutting instruction accompanies
the material during itspassage through the cutting room, the situation is monitored by entering the dataon the
cutting instruction record.Management must control both the output of the cutting room, to
achieveproduction targets, and also the various processes to ensure that the materialsare efficiently used. The
fabric reconciliation record provides a comparison ofactual usage and costed usage, and reports variances. This
forms the linkbetween the cutting room activities and financial control projections and, asmaterials comprise
approximately 40% of the manufacturing costs, should beregarded as vitally important.

8.2.1. Cutting Instruction

The cutting instruction is the main documentary output of the cut order planningprocess. It is known by a
variety of names in the industry; the cutting order, thecutting sheet, the lay sheet, and so on. The document
appears in a variety offormats depending on local needs. However, as a minimum requirement thecutting
instruction must have the following information:(1). the fabric to be processed.(2). the marker to be used.(3).
the number of plies authorized (or equivalent)
 Example format for the cutting instruction.

Date issued:

The cutting schedule governs the authorization of lays. Theprogress of the batches in the cutting room may be
monitored by reference to theissue date.

Marker length:

Information on the marker length is transferred to the cuttinginstruction. By adding on the ends allowance, the
spreader can determine the laylength.

Measured lay length:

This figure is entered by the spreader on completion of the lay. It provides direct feedback on ends of ply losses
and can be used to assist the analysis of low yield.

Fabric to be cut:

The fabric to be cut details informs the store man and spreader
of the planners intentions. A qualitative description o

f the fabric is given so thatthey can check that the correct fabric is issued.

Garments to be cut:

Details of the garments to be cut are based on the cut orderplan. The marker quantities are entered against
each size, and the number ofgarments is calculated by multiplying the marker quantity by the number of
plies.At each stage of processing in the cutting room, the operator responsible forhandling the materials enters
the relevant quantities in the spaces provided andsigns the document.The lower half of the figure (example
format of the cutting instruction) isconcerned with the specific pieces of the fabric issued foe cutting. The dye
lotnumber is identified, as it is normal to keep pieces from the same dye lot togetherto minimize the variations
in shade. Individual piece numbers are specified, sothe document permits managers to batch widths or shades
when issuing work.To assist the store man, the rack number is transferred from the stock book tothe sheet.
Either the purchased length or the knitted weight is recorded, so thecutting instruction can be used with all the
fabrics, whether is recorded, so thesame cutting instruction can be used with all fabrics, whether purchased
bylength or by weight.The number of plies obtained from each piece is noted by the spreader, and canlater be
used to determine the total number of plies and therefore the number ofgarments of each size. If remnants
(part-plies) are placed aside for subsequentprocessing, the lengths are recorded. Similarly, if faulty fabric is cut
out duringspreading, the lengths are accounted for on the sheet.If the number of garments required is not
achieved because there is aninsufficient number of plies, the reasons must be determined. The lay must notbe
cut until it has been checked by the cutting room supervisor or manager. Aspace is provided on the cutting
instruction for signature of the personauthorizing the cutter to proceed. This procedure is referred to as the
spreadingaudit.The lower part of the figure (example format of the cutting instruction) iscompleted either at
the spreading audit stage or by the manager at the fabricreconciliation stage. Each column is totaled. In the
case of fabric purchased bylength, the total fabric issued is the total of the purchased length issued column.The
returned fabric figure is the total of the remnant length column, where fabrichas not been layed up (part ply
lengths, partly used rolls lengths, and fabricsdeemed unsuitable for spreading and which will be subject of the
claim). Thenumber of faults allowed is the number of supplier-strung faults, from which thelength is credited
for faults, can be calculated. This length can be compared withthe total of the faulty fabric column, to check
whether the allowance is realistic.

Cutting Instruction Record.

In a manual management information system, the issue and the progress of thecutting instructions are
recorded in a cutting instruction record. The generalprocedure for entering details on this document is shown
in figure A. A typicalformat for cutting instruction record is shown in figure B.Figure B presupposes that the
garments are cut in the correct ratio of the sizes.This is justified where ratio markers are employed, and where
there are fewgarments cut from the remnant lays. In other cases to avoid loss of control,information
concerning sizes must be included in the document.The cutting instruction record is designed to assist control.
It enables themanager to know:(1). What work is in progress in the cutting room?(2). What work is overdue
and needs progressing. Comparison between issuedates and completion dates are provide information on
throughput times.(3). Weekly production data for updating other documents (notably the weeklycutting
summary and the work in progress in the sewing room).

Computerized management information system will print out cutting instructionsfollowing cut
order planning. There are some variations as to what happens whenthe work is completed. Some systems will
allow the number of garments cut tobe entered directly to the database, making these systems comparable to
themanual system described above. Other systems work on the basis that if thecutting instruction is issued,
the garments cut will be as specified, so that updatesof information are only necessary if the specific quantities
are not achieved.

8.3. Fabric usage control: spreading audit

If the material usage is to be controlled, it will be through the vigilance of thepersonal not the
comprehensiveness of documents. The cutting instructionprovides information to assist control, but it is no
substitute for skilledcraftsmanship and effective supervision. The spreading audit investigates allaspects of the
material usage and assesses the control being exercised in thevarious processes.

8.3.1. Lay Details

The cutting instruction specified the fabric, the marker and the number of plies inthe lay. The first check is to
ensure that everything is happening as wasintended.

8.3.2. End Losses.

Since ends waste has a tendency to increase with time, this is an obvious area toreview. The cutting instruction
if figure 1 has a space for recording the measuredlay length and marker length, to facilitate the comparison.

Edge allowance

The usable width of the fabric should be established by comparing the lay widthand the marker width.
Discrepancies warrant careful investigation: unless soundreasons can be given to justify them, the marker
width should be changed. Thepotential for width batching can also be explored if this is not
alreadyimplemented.

8.3.4. Splice allowance

Splice allowance resulting from the ends of pieces or from the cutting out of faultsshould be examined. There
should be evidence of control, shown be clearlymarked slice lines and consistent allowances to specification.

8.3.5. Remnant lengths

The practices of cutting room should be considered in the light of all theconstraints, but evidence should be
present that remnant lengths are processedefficiently with the objective of minimizing waste.

8.3.6. Faults processed.

Again different practices in the cutting room can be justified, but the evidenceshould be seen of cost-
effectiveness. Comparison between the number of strungfaults and the number of faults cut out during
spreading (or recut after spreading)provide an in

dication of the suppliers standards of inspection.

8.3.7 Accounting for purchased length issued.

It is possible to assess whether the purchased length are realistic, or whetherthere is a case for further, more
rigorous investigations using a fabric inspectionmachine. The ply length multiplied by the number of plies
provides the startingpoint for the calculation. To this should be added lengths of all remnants and anyunused
fabric. This total length may be then compared with the purchased lengthissued. If the agreement is good, the
situation is satisfactory.If there is a discrepancy further measurements are necessary, as there may be
aproblem in the losses due to fabric faults. Data is required on:(1). the length of faulty fabric cut during
spreading(2). the lengths involved in splicing allowances.(3). the gross length of the fabric pieces.The gross
length must be obtained from the tickets supplied with the pieces, andis the purchased length plus allowances
made for strung faults. The lengths (1)and (2) are added together and compared with the difference between
(3) andthe measured lay length. If there is no discrepancy, an inadequate compensationis being made for the
method the company is using to process faults. Furtherinvestigations are therefore warranted: changes might
be needed in the way.

faults are processed, but if efficient practices are already in use negotiationsshould be opened with the
supplier, either to provide greater allowances or toreduce the fault rate of the purchased materials.If the
calculations show the purchased length is not a realistic measure of thepiece length, the spreading technique
must be checked to ensure that the fabricis layed up without overfeed. Checks should also be made to see if
the fabricshrinkage is occurring during spreading, effectively reducing the length of thefabric. If correct
spreading is confirmed, the inference is that the company isbeing over changed for the fabric supplied, and
that are more systematicmeasurements of the length of pieces are warranted.

8.3.8. Deviations from the costed marker plan.

It is possible that the marker used with specific lays is not the same as theproduction marker used to
determine the rating of fabric usage. This could be forseveral reasons:(1). The fabric received was narrower
than the specification, and a decision wasmade to made to cut rather than return the fabric. To avoid problems
ofmisshapen panels at the selvedge edges, a new marker was made but with thereduced utilization.(2). Pattern
changes had occurred since the production costing was determined.

These changes were done at the customers request but they led to an increased

rating of fabric usage (RFU). (The RFU should be checked as a matter of course,as mistakes are sometimes
made).(3). Production pressures required that a small lay be prepared so that workcould be issued to
the sewing unit within few hours. A short marker was preparedwith reduced utilization.(4). Customer feedback
meant that a marker with a different ratio was prepared,with a higher RFU.

8.4. Fabric Usage Control: fabric reconciliation

The essence of fabric reconciliation is that, for each lay, a comparison is madebetween costed and actual usage
of fabric, and the variance is reported. As withthe cutting instruction, there is variety in the format of fabric
reconciliation recordsand several alternative names are in use: the gains and losses report, the fabricvariance
report, and so on. Whatever name is used, the document plays animportant role within the management as it
ties together what managementplanned to do (the costed usage) with what they have achieved (the
actualusage).
 Fabric faults and claims for poor quality

The conditions of sale of many fabric suppliers may disclaim any responsibilityfor the quality of the goods once
the fabric has been cut. This is because theknife removes the opportunity for the situation to be rectified.
Consequently allsignificant lengths of substandard fabric should be returned to store fromspreading. These
lengths must be deleted with the total issued figure and a claimplaced with the supplier. Similarly, the fabric
fault rate must be monitoredcarefully. The number of faults cut out during spreading or recut after
spreading,should correlate with the number of strung faults. Variances here are serious andthe supplier should
be informed that claim is likely. The outcome may be any ofthe following:

1). The supplier receives the unsatisfactory goods and refunds the purchaseprice.

(2). The supplier replaces the faulty goods at no charge.

(3). Additional allowances are made to compensate for unstrung faults

(4). Compensation is paid to the manufacturer who makes up the substandard materials but cannot obtain
the normal price from the market.

8.6. Documentation and the management function

Managers need to use documents, but documents are no substitute for management. A manager who enters
data on documents is not doing the work of a manager but it is better described as a clerk. As someone has
said:Management is a function of leadership, not statistics. Documents are useful only when they help the
managers make informed the decisions which change the way activities are undertaken. It is believed that
performance of cutting rooms should be measured, not in terms of labor productivity but in terms of material
utilization. It is only when accounting rules are brought into line with production realities that the message
about the importance of material costs will be understood and acted on.