Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 21

GANSU Spiritual Stopover

XINJIANG

INNER MONGOLIA
Dunhuang

NINGXIA

QINGHAI

Xiahe Lanzhou
Hezuo
Langmusi

SICHUAN

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 492 5/26/08 4:51:51 PM


Sharing a border with six other western provinces Sharing borders with Sichuan in southernmost
but not Tibet, it is surprising that Gansu is home to Gansu, Langmusi is perhaps the province’s most
China’s second-largest Tibetan population. stunning locale. Nestled between rolling, snow-
dusted mountains, the slat-wood settlement
Hemmed by a vast expanse of sand, the tree- abounds with crimson-robed lamas and natively
trimmed oasis of Dunhuang in Gansu’s northern dressed Amdos chanting mantras while prostrating
Hexi corridor, once an important outpost on the Silk themselves on their pilgrimage to the holy land.
Road, is today famed for its mountain-sized sand
dunes and ancient Buddhist grotto art. In between making the spiritual rounds,
the resplendently ornamented nomads rest
In the southern end of the province, the beneath stupas to chat, knead tsampa dough
mountainous terrain of the Gannan Tibetan and sip yak-butter tea, a perfect portrait of
Autonomous Prefecture provides a cool, quiet Gansu’s Tibetan culture.
respite from the scalding sands of the north.

Gleaming mosques give way to sun-bleached


stupas and white-capped Hui Muslims relinquish the
landscape to prismatic Tibetan Buddhists spinning
prayer wheels beneath the surreal blue sky, giving
Gansu the sobriquet “Little Lhasa”.

Beyond the verdant Ganjia grasslands and


undulating hills of the Qinghai Plateau is the
impressive Labrang monastery at Xiahe. Pressed up
against the mountainside, the centuries-old estate is
the mainland’s largest Tibetan lamasery.

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 493 5/26/08 3:51:02 PM


HEXI
From the mountain-sized sand dunes of
Dunhuang down to the province’s capital
Lanzhou on the Yellow River, the Hexi
Corridor is part of the ancient Silk Road
trading route which threads through
northern Gansu.
492

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 494 5/26/08 3:51:08 PM


493

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 495 5/26/08 3:51:12 PM


494

SANGKE
Farmers at harvest in the Ganjia Tibetans hitching a ride across the Sangke
grasslands. grasslands towards the Qinghai-Tibetan
plateau. Opposite page.

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 496 5/26/08 3:51:17 PM


495

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 497 5/26/08 3:51:21 PM


496

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 498 5/26/08 3:51:26 PM


497

XIAHE
Tibetan pilgrims making their koras
(spiritual walking circuit) around
a Buddhist dagoba. Xiahe is a
slat-wood settlement surrounding
18th-century Labrang, one of China’s
largest Tibetan lamaseries.

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 499 5/26/08 3:51:30 PM


XIAHE
Prostrating beneath 1,200 prayer wheels.

498

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 500 5/26/08 3:51:40 PM


499

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 501 5/26/08 3:51:50 PM


500

HEZUO
Daughters of Buddhist pilgrims
returning from Langmusi.

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 502 5/26/08 3:52:04 PM


501

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 503 5/26/08 3:52:06 PM


LANGMUSI
Located on the Sichuan border at
3,000 meters, the Gansu side of
Langmusi was constructed around
the impressive Geerdeng Monastery.

502

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 504 5/26/08 3:52:08 PM


503

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 505 5/26/08 3:52:10 PM


LANGMUSI
Hip Tibetan youth.

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 506 5/26/08 3:52:12 PM


505

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 507 5/26/08 3:52:14 PM


LANGMUSI
The Gansu side of Langmusi includes
a primary school with both Tibetan
Buddhist and Hui Muslim pupils.

506

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 508 5/26/08 3:52:22 PM


507

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 509 5/26/08 3:52:24 PM


LANGMUSI
Some local children opt to stay home from Tibetan pilgrims making koras around
school and instead help their parents with Geerdeng Monastery. Opposite page.
household chores. This young girl and her
mother are washing laundry in a stream
that runs through town.

508

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 510 5/26/08 3:52:31 PM


509

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 511 5/26/08 3:52:40 PM


510 LANGMUSI
Teenage lamas on the front steps of
Geerdeng Monastery.

Portrait_of_People_Final.indd 512 5/26/08 3:52:45 PM

Оценить