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Introduction
The
ThomasHoving 1 Costume
Inspiration and Information
DeedeeMoore
Professionals in the fashion industry
'y
Institute
discuss the significance of the Museum's
Costume Institute
The Costume Institute 11
A pictorial presentation of the scope cof Atticsandtrunkshavelongbeentherepositoriesof theadmiredclothingof
the collection ourancestorsandof lastseason'sdiscardedfashions.Butunlikeother
Sleuthing at the Seams 2 2 decorativeartssuchasfurnitureorceramicsthatpeoplealsocollect,
ElizabethN. Lawrenceand costumeshaveseldombeenthoughtof asworksof artin theirownright.
AdolphS. Cavallo Thebeliefthattheyareartled theMetropolitan to taketheMuseum
Detective work recaptures the stylisl
ness of 18th-century gowns that had bee
of Costume Artunder its roof in 1946 as the Costume Institute,andto
remodeled to suit later fashion make it a Museum department in 1959.
2 The splendid collection of theCostumeInstitutebeganwithtwo large
Homage to a Poet 3
one fromIrene
StellaMaryNewton gifts, Lewisohn andhersisterAliceLewisohnCrowleyand
An analysis of clothing in "a curiotis one from LeeSimonson. Since then theInstitute'sholdingshavemore
little painting" sheds light on an art hi.s- thandoubled,becausehundredsof donorshavecontributedapparelranging
torical puzzle froma Spanishmatador's"suitof lights"to thelatestfashionsby leading
Clothes and the Historian 38 couturiers.The Institute'slibraryhasalsogrownsteadily:in additionto
John Nevinson booksandperiodicalsit housesfashionplatesandsketches,patternbooks,
The truest portraits: how costumes ree- andfabricswatches.
veal the actual appearance of historiceal To makethesevaluableresourcesaccessibleto morepeople,anexpanded
characters
CostumeInstitutewill openthisfall,followingoverthirteenyearsof
Fashion Plate 44
The visual language of fashion in cl planningandconstruction. Forfouryearsthecollectionshavebeenin
thing will be presented in the new Co. storageand activitieswere curtailed.These four years,however, arelike
tume Institute's opening exhibition thetipof theiceberg.Behindthemlies a decadeof planning,supervisedby
PolaireWeissman,thentheCostumeInstitute'sExecutiveDirector,
On the covers withtheencouragement of thelateJamesJ. Rorimerandthearchitectural
Dalmatian costume, and evening cape b contributionof EdwardD. Stone;andtheenormoustaskof raising
Doucet. Plates by Borelli-Vranska and moneyforthebuilding,whichwouldhavebeeninfinitelymoredifficult
Dammy from La Gazette du Bon Toti, withoutthegrantof fivemilliondollarsfromthecityof New York
Paris, July and May 1914. The Costumre andimpossiblewithoutthesupportof dozensof people,bothof Seventh
Institute Library AvenueandFifthAvenue- amongthemIreneLewisohn,Dorothy
Shaver,MelvinDawley,andAlineBernstein.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin Chairman AdolphS. Cavalloandhis staffhavemadeambitiousplans
Volume XXX, Number 1 August/September 19'71
Published bimonthly. Copyright ? 1971 by The Metropolli-
forthefuture:to showMuseumvisitorstheaestheticaspectsof costume,
tan Museumof Art, Fifth Avenue and 82 Street, New Yor
N.Y. 10028. Second class postage paid at New York, N.'y.
k, exhibitionswill be changedeverythreemonths,andforseriousstudentsof
to
Subscriptions$7.50 a year. Single copies $1.50. Sent free
Museum members. Four weeks' notice required for chanl
costume,theeducational program- includingworkshops,publications,
of address. Back issues available on microfilm from Univege lectureseries,andtheTextileStudyRoom- will be enlarged.Thesepro-
sity Microfilms, 313 N. First Street, Ann Arbor, Michigai
Volumes I-XXXVII (1905-1942) available as a clothbourrd gramsand the well-designednew spacewill surelyenable the Costume
reprint set or as individual yearly volumes from Arno Pres
330 Madison Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10017, or from tlhe Instituteto achieveits goal:to makeits richresourcesmoreavailableto
Museum, Box 255, Gracie Station, New York, N.Y. 1002
Editor of the Bulletin: KatharineH. B. Stoddert; Assistar laymenandto studentsthaneverbefore- to literallyopenupthe
Editor: Susan Goldsmith. Art Director: Stuart Silver; Dce- department - andto reinforcetheideaof costumeas art.
signer: Joseph del Gaudio. (Photographs, unless otherwis
noted, by the Metropolitan Museum's PhotographStudio *? .~~~~~~~) ~Thomas Hoving,Director
TC^^\
ASHIONRETAILERS
maynot haveasgreata reasonas designersdo
-~ for using the CostumeInstitute, but KatherineMurphy,fashion
co-ordinatorof Bloomingdale's,admits that "I don't use it as muchas I
would like to, simplybecauseit's a mad,mad world and I don't have
the time. But it is a marvelousplace to take young buyersand tune them in to
3
whenfashionstartedturningcorners,whenmassproductionstarted,what
periodsactuallywere.Everyoneis sayingtodaythatcurrentfashionis forties-ish.
It's not.If yougo to theInstitute,youcansee thethirtiesinfluence,anda lot of
whatwe arecallingthirtiesis actuallythetwenties.Nevertheless,peopleliterally
won'tbelieveyouunlessyoutakethemupthereandpointout whatwasbeing
designedin thethirties.Nordidtherealclothesof thoseperiodsfit the waythey
arebeingadaptedtoday- theyweremuchlooser.
"Fortheaterdesignerswhohaveto be authentic,andforSeventhAvenue
designerswhohaveto do collectionsyearafteryearandbe inspiredall thetime,
the Instituteis indispensable.Fromonegarmentat the Institutefiveor six
lookscanbe produced- clothesweremuchfussierin thepast.Todayforone
garmentyoucantakea collarhereor a sleevethere,becausethereisn'ta lookof
theseventiesas therewaswithCourreges in thesixties- fashionnowis
confused.It simplyreflectsthetimesin whichwe live, andthereis much
polarization in theworldandin fashion.In its attemptsto sortout someof the
confusion,fashionis delvingintothepast,andso the Institutewith its costumes
importantat themoment.
of old is particularly
"Actuallyapplyingcostumesto retailingis difficult,thoughwe do get promo-
tionalideasfromresearchat theMuseum- fordisplays,windows.RecentlyI
tooka groupof buyersup thereto studyClaireMcCardell clothes- theywere
and
amazedat thesizeof thecollection howcontemporary theclotheslooked.
Whatwouldbe idealformewouldbe to bringtogethera groupof sportswear
buyersto givethema "retro"on sportswearso theycouldsuggestwhatwe can
do to giveblazers,whichareallovertown,theindividualmarkof Blooming-
dale's.Buyersmightreplythattheyarenot designers,but I amnot askingthem
to be designers- only,withresearch,to getgoodideasto workwith."
A4NNE
KEAGYof theParsonsSchoolof Designis chairmanof the
fashiondepartment,whichshehasbuiltoverthepasttwenty-fouryears
andof whichsheis understandably proud:heralumniincludeDonald
Leo
Brooks, Narducci, Chester -
Weinberg peoplemostlyof Seventh
Avenue.Parsons'sfashioncourseis a three-year programwitha first-year com-
pulsorycoursein fashionresearch,conductedmainlyat theCostumeInstitute.
Mrs.Keagyis thusmorethaneagerlyawaitingthe Institute'sreopening.She
considersParsonsa favoritechildof the Institute,and,in turn,Parsonsdonates
to the Institutethecostumesit collects."Wenormallyuse the Instituteasa
classroomoncea week,"Mrs.Keagystates."Therearelectures;we base
workaroundspecialexhibits,sketch,do detailedrenderings. Untila studenthas
-
gotteninvolvedwithintricatedetail,hasseenit, drawnit pleatsforexample,
howtheyfold,how thosefoldsworkin peaude soie,how thefabricis used,
how thedartsaretreated(for taffetamoredartsareneeded),howconstruction
achievesproportion- he cannotactuallyunderstandthemovementof a
garment,howit fitson a person,andhe cannotget thatfromfashionplatesor
books.
studentsto havethecourseat the Institute
"It is so importantforfirst-year
as a basisfortheirstudies.Andtheymustlearnto use theMuseum- everyone
looks,butnot everyonesees.Manyschoolsdo line-for-line copies,butthatis
notourapproach.Studentshaveto feel thecostumes,be awareof what's
4
Inspired by the richness of the eastern
European clothes in the Costume Institute,
Rizkallah created a "CaspianSea collection"
that includes this dramaticsilk and worsted
dress
5
there,filethoseideasin theirminds,andthenusejustthecolor,or thefullness
of a sleeve,or thewayto adapta sailorcollar.At Parsonswe haveSeventh
Avenuedesignersreviewstudents'sketches,givea critique.Thedesigners
returna secondtimeto seethethree-dimensional modelin muslin.Thethird
time,theyseethefinishedgarment- thedraping,the fabric,thecolor,the
proportion- whenit hasbecomepartof living,of culture."
* .*. .*
'-a
a * .- *
I,
*4,
-fi. *5
A '.,
Opposite: Gown and accessories designed by couldn'tgo throughthisprocessforFiddlerat theInstitute.
Donald Brooks for a New York production "I knowthatsomepeoplefeel thecostumesshouldnotbe handled,butto me
of the sixteenth-century play Dr. Faustus by thevalueof theCostumeInstituteis seeinghow thegarmentfeelson, howit
Christopher Marlowe
moveson a body.If possibleI takethe starsto theInstitute.ForSheLovesMe,
I tookBarbara BaxleyandBarbara Cookandworkedwith themon thethirties
look.We learnedthatyouhaveto standin a wholedifferentway:youleanback
a littlein thatsortof languidswaybackwithonearmlimplythrustforward.I
wentbackto thechoreographer andwe workedtheentireshowon thisstance.
It madetheshowelegant,gavetheactorscourage,anddispelledtheirbeliefthat
themid-calfthirtieslengthwaswithoutgrace.
"Workingwithcostumesgivesyouprofoundrespectforthelife of pasttimes.
Youlookatourthingsandseehowmuchworkmanship haschanged,howmany
dressmaking techniqueshavebeenlost, theabsenceof thehumanhandthatgave
earlierperiodsso muchbeauty.In theater,however,we stillneedthesetech-
niquesbecausewe arecustom,not mass-produced. I workwithone shopwhere
everyseamis overcastbyhand,andno theaterembroidery is everdoneby
machine.
"For1776 it wasveryimportantformeto see thecutof aneighteenth-century
man'scoat,especiallyimportantbecausewe weredealingwith a pantheonof
Americangods.I shudderwhenI seethecostumeson peopleatWilliamsburg
andGettysburg.Theclothesaremachinemade,withoutvitalityorfit.The
tailoringof eighteenth-century coatsmadethemverysoft; theyweren'tstiffand
hardaspeopleimagine.In drawingsyoucouldneversee that,for there'sno
dimension;youcan'tstudywhereseamsgo on thebody.Andwhatyou're
aimingforin designis mobilesculptureon thestage."
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a fascinatingengineeringfeat:whenthefigureis standing,thefabricof the
protuberance is hookedupgracefullyonbuttons.
"I alsotakemystudentsto the Institute.A staffmemberarrangesa talkand
I amconstantlyamazedatherknowledge.It introducesthestudentsto the
Institute,to theuseof costumes,givesthemexposureto how costumesactually
lookedandweremade.
"Withtheexpandedspace,thefacilitiesforstudyroomsareexcellentand
adaptable.Theprivacythatis possibleis terriblyimportant;if I amusinga
Polaroid,theflashbulbwill no longerbotherothers.Now whatis desperately
neededis awell-organized programof photographing thecostumesclosely,from
-
allangles insideandout.Evenwith scientificcare,theseclothesareeventually
goingto turnto dust,andthereis nothingmoreheartbreaking thanpickingup a
costumeto feel it crumble."
? DC ONALDBROOKS's TheLastof theRed
latestshowsonBroadway,
Hot LoversandPromises,Promises,bringto fourteenhisdecadeof
theatercredits.Eachof hisfilmshasbroughthimanAcademyAward
nomination.AndonSeventhAvenue,amonghisowngroupof professionals,
he is considereda stardesigner.In turn,he applaudstheCostumeInstitute,
whereso muchof his researchhasbeendoneandfromwhichso muchof his
inspirationhasbeenderived.
"I hadstudiedfinearts,industrialdesign,andarchitecture at Syracuse,"he
says,"andit wasonlythroughadditionalstudiesat Parsonsthatmy in
interest
fashionbecameclear.ThroughParsons,thegatesof theCostumeInstitutewere
flungopen.Thecollectionof clothesat thedisposalof studentsandprofessionals
- goingbackto thesixteenthcentury- is fantastic:clothesandaccessoriesthat
makeit possiblefortheatricalandfashiondesignersto actuallyreachout and
touchhistory.Now I'm at the Institutequiteoften,and,in general,I study
embroidery, - theheightof a heel,thetoolingof cut-steelbuckles,
accessories
passementerie.
"Costumesat the Institutearenotnecessarilydividedintoethnicor economic
groups,noris everygrouprepresented. Forinstance,it is notpossibleto finger
clothingwornby peasantsof a period.Butaningeniousdesigner,on studying
oneof the Institute'sexamplesof folkclothing,cantakewhatis typicaland
downgradeit fora peasant'sapparel,or, conversely,upgradeit forwhatthe
mayorandhiswife mightwearforofficialfunctions.No designerwho considers
himselfcreativewouldtryto re-createparticular examplesfromthecollection.
But,throughresearch, he can temper ideaswith his own tasteandjudgmentand
createhis ownmood. If one is doingcontemporary clothes he mightbe interested
in thetechniques,theuseof trim thentheinspirationis abstracted.If the
-
underlyingthemein a collectionis a specifichistoricalperiodorlocale,the
inspirationcanbe moredirectlyrelatedto thesource.In anycase,though,the
designerhasto seehow thoseclothesactuallywere.Andthetremendous library
at theCostumeInstitute- periodicalsgoingbackalmost200 years- provides
extrahelp.
"Everybody is interestedin historyandbeauty,so I thinkthepublicwill use
theInstitutemorewith theexpandedfacilities.Becausethereis so muchugliness
in theworld,it is especiallyrestfulandsoothingandcalmto see thebeautyof
thepastasit existsin theCostumeInstitute."
10
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Left page and bottom: Detail and
overall view of man's red wool
jacket embroidered with silver and
black yarns. Albanian, 19th
century. Bequest of Mrs. Hamilton
Condon, 1970.84.1. Top left:
Man's suit of blue patterned velvet.
French, 1725-1750. Purchase,
Irene Lewisohn Bequest, CI 62.27.
Center left: Man's suit of brown
velvet. English (?), about 1770. Pur-
chase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest,
CI 61.35. Center right: Man's coat
of black velvet on a purplish blue
ground with polychrome silk
embroidery. French, 1775-1785. Gift
of Lilly Dache', CI 68.45
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Right: Woman'scoatof purple
velvet decoratedwith gilt and
silveryarns.ProbablySerbian,19th
century.Gift of Alan Wolfe,
CI 56.6.3. Center:Woman'scoat
(back) of red velvet heavilydeco-
ratedwith gilt yarns.Greek
(Epirus), 19th century.Gift of Mrs.
HarrisonTweed,CI 48.67.1.Far
right: Woman'scoat of scarletvelvet
decoratedwith gilt yarns.Albanian
or Turkish,19th century.Gift
of ChesterDale, CI 53.74.4.Bottom:
Man'swool jacketheavilydeco-
ratedwith silverandgilt yarns.
Greek (Epirus), late 19th century.
Gift of Mrs.AugustG. Paine,
CI 53.11.1
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Elizabeth N. Lawrence
Assistant for Conservation, The Costume Institute
Adolph S. Cavallo
Chairman,The Costume Institute
22
26
9. Portrait of Mme Favart, by Francois-
Hubert Drouais (1727-1775), French. Dated
28
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11. Gown with matching petticoat, Ameri-
can, about 1780-1785, in the early stages
of restoration. The petticoat has been partly
restored and shows the deep flounce that had
been on the skirt. Gift of the heirs of Emily
Kearny Rodgers Cowenhoven, 1970.87ab.
Photograph: George Mittag
12. The gown in Figure 11, as restored in
1970. Photograph: KatrinaThomas
'Homage
toa
'Poet
Stella Mary Newton
Lecturer and Head of the Department for the Study of the History of Dress,
London University, Courtauld Institute of Art
33
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exception of the "poet" himself. Mantegna,
Giovanni Bellini, and Carpaccio,on the
other hand, frequently did, accompanied
usually by a curled fringe of hair across the
forehead (Figure 3). This arrangementof
the hair belonged, in fact, to a fashion that
was current before Giorgione's earliest
pictures were painted, and that had dis-
appearedsoon after the beginning of the
1490s. The hair arrangementin Homage to a
Poet, where the corkscrew curls break from
smooth bands of hair that descend from a
center parting, is very difficult, though not
absolutely impossible, to discover elsewhere.
In the one example that comes to mind,
Carpaccio'sDeath of the Virgin of 1508, it
is worn by one of the saints, but by that time
it was no longer a part of the Venetian
fashion.
The young man who kneels in the center
of the painting and offers the enthroned
figure a bowl full of what Mary Delany in
the eighteenth century would have called
"nothing at alls," wears a long belted coat
with a slit at the side that is not a part of
Italian Renaissance fashion (Figure 4).
Mantegna, however, used a vaguely similar
garment to clothe two of the Magi (pre-
sented as Orientals) in his Adoration of the
Magi in the Uffizi, of about 1465 (Figure 2).
The general style of the dress worn by the
young man playing a lute fits less uneasily
into the normal fashion of the first decade of
the sixteenth century, but its carefully
painted shirt front, revealed to a consider-
able depth by the opening of his coat, is
difficult to account for (Figure 7). Its lower
part at least should be concealed by a tight-
fitting lined jacket that was a sartorial neces-
sity at the time, for without it the long hose
could not be kept up. Early paintings by
Titian and Palma Vecchio make it clear that
toward 1510 a good deal of the shirt front
could be exposed above the top of this jacket
(a doublet or farsettino ), but not nearly as
much as we see here; ten years previously,
at the end of the fifteenth century, a deep
References
The following publications are cited in this
article: Sir Charles Holmes," 'Giorgione'
Problems at TrafalgarSquare - 1" in The
Burlington Magazine 42 (1923), pp. 169-181
(the painting is referred to as The Golden
Age); Cecil Gould, The Sixteenth-Century
Venetian School (National Gallery Cata-
logues) (London, 1959),no. 1173, p. 42;
Terisio Pignatti, Giorgione (Italian edition,
Venice, 1969; English edition, London,
1971 ), plate 141, p. 122 (Italian edition),
p. 124 (English edition). Pignatti speaks of
the picture as belonging, in his opinion,
to a member of Giorgione's closest circle and
painted during the period of Giorgione's
own activity.
40
4. Detail of Charles II Dining at the Hague.
Engraving by P. Philippe, 1660, after G.
Toornvliet. Victoria and Albert Museum,
London
42
Bibliography and Note
For additional information on the clothes
mentioned here, see my articles "New Ma-
terial for the History of XVJJth Century
Costume in England" in Apollo 20 (1934),
pp. 315-319 (on Verney costumes); "A Late
Elizabethan Suit and an Early Charles I
Doublet" in Apollo 30 (1939), pp. 66-70;
"VandykeDress" in Connoisseur 157
(1964), pp. 166-17 1; and "Vogue of the
Vandyke Dress" in Country Life Annual
(1959), pp. 25-27.
The quotations in this article can be found
in the following sources:
Anthony Weldon, Court and Characterof
King James I (London, 1650).
Dr. James Welwood, Memoirs of the Most
Material Transactions in England for the
Last Hundred Years Preceding the Revolu-
tion in 1688 (7th ed., London, 1736), p. 68.
Capt. C. W. Firebrace, Honest Harry,
Being the Biography of Sir Henry Firehrace
(161.9-91) (London, 1932), p. 88.
Samuel Pepys, Diary, 2 (London, 1970),
entry for April 6, 1661, p. 66.
Letter of Dr. Creighton to Sir Ralph
Verney, January 29, 1653. Memoirs of the
VerneyvFamily, 1 (London, 1925), p. 505.
6. The Blue Boy (Jonathan Buttall), hy I Shouldlike to express my thanks to the
Thomas Gainsborough (1 727-1788), English. Earl of Ancaster and to Major Ralph Verney
The Henry E. Huntington Lihraryand Art of C7laydonfor permission to reproduce
Gallery, San Marino, California photographs of their costumes.
7. Vandyke jacket of green satin trimmed
with green and white silk rihhon. English,
ahout 1770-1780. Ipswich Museum, Suffolk.
Photograph: Brighton Art Gallery and
Museum, Brighton
Fashion
p]a1 e
An Opening
Exhibition Robe a l'anglaise, 1784 or 1785. Fashion
plate drawn by Watteau fils, engraved by
forthe New Le Beau. Plate 198 from Galerie des Modes
et Costumes Francais (1911-1912 reprint-
Costume Institute ing). Metropolitan Museum Library
Coat of satin and velvet. Detail of plate 487
from Townsend's Monthly Selection of
Costumes, London, 1833. Metropolitan
Museum Library
So much has been written and said about for the new facility call for the contents of the
fashion that most of us have forgotten it is ten galleries to be changed every three
something. It is also not something. It is not months. Fashion Plate will be the first of
clothing, although it has something to do these gallery installations - the inaugural
with clothing. It also has to do with motor- exhibition.
cars, holiday resorts, and pet dogs. It is, in Drawn entirely from the Costume Insti-
fact, a social phenomenon that defines the tute's own collection, the garments and
ways people do things at certain times, accessories in Fashion Plate will represent
making them identifiable as characteristic a succession of fashions in clothing during
of a particulartime, place, and social level. the past 200 years. The clothes will be shown
In relation to clothes as well as other in conjunction with enlarged reproductions
things, fashion sets up criteria, and people of fashion plates of their time. Both the plates
who care about being fashionable will respect and the clothes exhibit that taste for idealized
those standards.This involves an enormous line, for exaggerated form, for dramatized
industry based on the activities of designers, detail that conditions the visual language of
manufacturers,buyers, retailers, the fashion fashion in clothing. To demonstrate fashion's
press, and people in related fields. The consistency of action through the ages, the
word itself, fashion, has been made synony- staff will arrangethe groups of costumes and
mous with that industry. But although plates without regard to chronological
fashion is this industry's chief motivating sequence. In this way, without the distraction
force (as it is of other industries ), it cannot of tracing developments from one period to
invent the visual forms that express the another, the visitor will be free to concentrate
moment's taste. It is the designers, as artists, on the purely formal aspects of the images
who create the look of long skirts, short and to identify those elements of line, form,
skirts, full sleeves, no sleeves, mane hair, and color that the designer manipulated
chopped hair - endlessly. What the fashion to achieve a fashionable look, whether he
of the moment says may in fact be less was working last year or a century ago.
important than how it's said; and how it's Possibly this will lead to some private and
said is a matter of terms that are visual, not personal definitions of fashion in clothing. In
economic, not social. any case, the visitor will see that our ances-
To salute the fashion industry of New tors 200 years ago were just as close to (or far
York, whose tireless efforts and financial from) the fashion-plate ideal as we are.
contributions were instrumental in making
the new Costume Institute a reality, the
Museum will present Fashion Plate in the Adolph S. Cavallo, Chairman
Costume Institute in the fall of 1971. Plans The Costume Institute
a,
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Two concert gowns. Fashion plate painted
by Toudouze, engraved by Bracquet, and
printed by Leroy. From La Mode Illustree,
Paris, February5, 1865. Gift of Lee
Simonson, Ly 61.16.12
Housecoat of brocaded silk and linen.
Fashion plate by Barbier from Journal des
Dames et des Modes, Paris, June 20, 1913.
The Costume Institute Library
Beginning with this issue, the Bulletin will appearevery other month through-
out the year.On alternatemonths, Museummemberswill receive the Calendar/
News.
Both have been redesignedand enlarged;the Bulletin will containmore articles
andillustrationsthan before, and eachissue of the Calendar/News will provide
a day-by-daylisting of events for the coming two months, as well as information
on the Museum'sactivities andprograms.
We hope that you enjoy these changes,andwelcome your comments.
KatharineStoddert,Editor of the Bulletin
Evening coat by Worth. Fashion plate by
Boutet de Monvel from La Gazette du Bon
Ton, Paris, April 1914. The Costume
Institute Library
Robe de style by Jeanne Lanvin. Fashion
plate by Benito from Vogue, New York,
June 15, 1924. Purchase, Irene Lewisohn
Bequest, Ly 61.31.118
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