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BEYOND LAKE GARDA: 9 REASONS TO EXPLORE BEAUTIFUL BRESCIA

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Corn fields bathed in sunlight and poppies swaying in the breeze. A
Renaissance tower rises in the distance. Citizens go about their daily lives in
the shadows of centuries of history and architecture. LikePage Share

Shimmering lakes invite you to jump straight into their clear waters. Families
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This is Brescia, Italy.

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Every year thousands of people flock to Lake Garda in northern Italy to
experience its picture perfect towns, clear mountain water and natural
wonders. But just beyond the lakes shores lies a region bursting with history, Type some keywords...

gastronomy, art and culture just waiting to be explored. Let me share with
you the many treasures of beautiful Brescia. INSTAGRAM

BRESCIA, ITALY

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The province of Brescia is nestled in the foothills of the alps in between

Milan and Verona and stretches from the western shores of Lake Garda to
the region of Cremona in the east.

Part of the Lombardy region, Brescia has been an important strategic centre
since pre-Roman times and was the target of several Venetian and French
occupations over the centuries. More recently Brescia played an important
role in the Risorgimento the unification of the Italian states.

The area is alive with history as well as its famous natural attractions Lake
Garda and Lake Iseo.

EXPLORING BRESCIA
 1 | FASCINATING CITIES AND TOWNS

Wandering the streets of Brescia is like taking a potted journey through

Italian history. From the impressive Roman ruins of the Piazza del Foro, the
impressive Venetian Renaissance Palazzo della Loggia and 18th century
palazzos, it seems each era of time made its mark on Brescia.

Perhaps the most striking example of this city that collected time is Piazza
Paolo VI where medieval, baroque and romanic buildings overlook the vast
piazza lined with cafes.

Beyond Brescia city, smaller towns and cities of the region are well worth
exploring. From the picture perfect lakeside fortress town of Sirmione to
Montichiari and the towns on the Brescia plain, there are stories and sights
waiting to be uncovered.

2 | GASTRONOMY
Wherever you go in Italy, gastronomy is held sacred and Brescia is no
e x c e p t i o n . B r e s c i a w a s n a m e d a s o n e o f t h e European Regions of
Gastronomy for 2017 in recognition of its rich culinary heritage and
commitment to slow food.

Home to the finest Italian caviar, the birthplace of Grana Padano cheese and
unique pasta dishes like casoncelli p a s t a s t u f f e d w i t h m e a t a n d
breadcrumbs, Brescia has a wealth of culinary delights. It would take almost
a lifetime to discover all the local delicacies.

Luckily there is a solution. Every year since 2000, Brescia Slow Food has
celebrated regional food and wine with its annual event in June Brescia
con Gusto. This is a great way to discover the local specialties and wine, all
the while taking in the incredible architecture of the city.

3 | ART AND ARCHITECTURE

Around every corner in Brescia you discover centuries of art and
architecture.

Roman ruins found in Brescia city are some of the most important in
northern Europe and are part of the Longobards UNESCO World Heritage
site. The main sites the Capitoline temple, forum and theatre show that
Brescia, or Brixia as it was known, was an important city in the Roman
Empire.

There are stone tablets from the Roman era in buildings lining the Piazza
della Loggia. But that squares main attractions include a beautiful portico
crowned with a spectacular 16th century astronomical clock and the palazzo
facing it, evidence that the city was once ruled by the Venetian Republic.

Recently restored, Piazza della Vittoria has some fine examples of fascist
architecture. Despite the controversy I like the historical continuity of the
modern buildings existing side by side with their ancient counterparts.

Away from Brescia city the small towns and cities of the province are home
to spectacular cathedrals donated by the dukes and people of the area. In
Verolanuova the basilica is practically a gallery in its own right with several
works by Tiepolo and other Renaissance artists.
 4 | UNIQUE STORIES AND PEOPLE

Of course it is the people and stories of a region that make it come alive.

In Montichiari you meet Count Gaetano Bonoris, who in the 19th century
built a castle faithful to the Medieval style. Complete with frescoes and
ornate interior, the castle has a room built for a king Umberto I and a
secret vault to hide its treasures.

Theres the story of a girl Biancamaria who in 1480 threw herself from
the parapets of Castello di Padernello (pictured below) trying to chase the
pretty fireflies twinkling in the countryside below. According to local
legend she returns to the castle every 10 years on the anniversary of her
death as La Dama Bianca.

Spend some time visiting the local vineyards and you will uncover the stories
and passion behind the wine. The Formentini family at Selva Capuzza are
dedicated to the production of wine from traditional and indigenous grape
varieties for 100 years. They will happily share their philosophy and thoughts
behind producing their signature Lugana white wine.

5 | BUSTLING MARKETS
We always head to the markets on our travels for the best insight into local
life you will ever find. In Brescia the weekly Saturday market sprawls out
from the Piazza della Loggia into the surrounding streets.

Vendors sell fresh seasonal produce, local cheeses, meat and vegetables
alongside household goods. It seemed everyone was out in Brescia doing
their weekly shop.

Clearly the thing to do after your shopping is snack on fried fish and seafood
as there were a couple of huge vans selling all kinds of fish based street food.
These fried fish vans were new to me but we saw them in several places in
the Brescia region.

6 | VINEYARDS FOR MILES

Brescia is famous for its sparkling variety Franciacorta, also known as Italys
answer to Champagne. Awarded DOCG ( (controlled and guaranteed
designation of origin) status in 1995, the wine is made from a blend of
chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc grapes from vineyards covering only
2,000 hectares of vines.

You can follow The Franciacorta wine route over 80 kilometres to discover
some of over 100 cellars producing wine using this method. The route
extends south from Lake Iseo across to Brescia and takes in rolling green
hills and charming villages.

If following wine routes is your kind of thing (and it really should be) there
are two other routes to follow:

the Strado dei Vini e dei Sapori del Garda which follows traditional local
 the Strado dei Vini e dei Sapori del Garda which follows traditional local
wines Garda Classico, Lugana and San Martino della Battaglia and
the Strada del Vino Colli dei Longobardi where you can discover
the Capriano del Colle and Botticino wine varieties.

7 | GENEROUS HOSPITALITY

This is the best place for casoncelli, the lady smiled as we perused the
menu at a cafe overlooking Piazza Paolo VI. Like so many people we met in
Brescia, this signora really wanted us to have a lovely time in her region.

We were stopped by people who overheard my Australian accent wanting to

chat about our visit and help us along our way. And in shops and restaurants
we were greeted with warm smiles and assistance.

I loved the relaxed vibe we found in Brescia. Its quite different from the cool
sophistication of Milan or the fierce passion you find in Sicily. Locals greatly
outnumber tourists in this part of Italy and the pace of life is a little slower,
more relaxed and all about enjoying life, good food and wine.

8 | BACK TO NATURE
For a region that is so close to bustling Milan and the tourist throngs of
Venice, you can find a little piece of solitude on the Brescia plain and
surrounding hills and valleys.

Take a walk or bike ride along country roads where poppies dance in the
breeze and little streams pass through corn fields. Its a great way to build up
an appetite for your inevitable feasting.

9 | THE FAMOUS LAKES

Garda is Italys largest lake and is a place of outstanding beauty. I first visited
here over 20 years ago and was utterly captivated by the shimmering lake.

The province of Brescia hugs Gardas shores and includes the Sirmione
peninsula where, on the tip, the impressive Roman ruins of the Grotte di
Catullo preside over the lake.

Sirmione itself is one of the prettiest towns I have ever set eyes on. The
town and its pretty cobbled streets are dominated by Scaliger Castle built in
the 13th century. Swans glide around its moat and the turrets are straight
out of a fairytale.
The streets of Sirmione become very crowded so its best to head to the
water and take a circular boat tour of the peninsula.

To the north Lake Iseo is Gardas lesser known sister. Quite a beauty in her
own right, in the middle of lake you will find Monte Isola, an island where
the single-nave church of San Michele in Peschiera Maraglio overlooks
chestnut groves and the lake itself. The lake inspired the recent Floating
Piers project by installation artist Christo.

HOW TO GET TO BRESCIA

Brescia has its own airport however there are many more flights into the
major cities close by Milan, Verona and Venice. I recommend hiring a car
from one of these cities so you can explore the hidden secrets of this region.

The drive from Milan Linate airport is around 1.5 hours and from Venice
Marco Polo approximately 2 hours. The closest well known city is Verona an
hours drive from Brescia.

RECOMMENDED READING

Related Guide to driving in Italy - touring by car made easy

WHERE TO STAY IN BRESCIA

Of course most visitors head to the shores of Lake Garda during their visit to
this region, however, if you crave peace, tranquility and the genuine
Brescian hospitality I mentioned, stay a few kilometres away from the lake.

We stayed at Palazzo Novello in Montichiari, just 24 kilometres from

Sirmione. This beautiful palazzo dating from the 16th century has been
lovingly restored by the Novello family into a charming boutique hotel.

There is no denying the wow factor of the entrance and staircase with
There is no denying the wow factor of the entrance and staircase with
gorgeous fresco on the ceiling above. But I loved retreating to my large airy
room with its comfortable bed. Decorated simply and elegantly, the guest
rooms at Palazzo Novello have shutters that open onto views of the rooftops
of the town or the garden below.

Breakfast at Palazzo Novello is somewhat of a feast with all tastes catered for
especially those who love homemade cake.

When we travel we look for special and unique accommodations and we

certainly found that at Palazzo Novello.

BRESCIA GOOD FOR THE SOUL

My time in Brescia was too short by far.

This is a place where lingering, slowing down and enjoying your spritz in the
shade of ancient monuments will do wonders for the soul.

Visiting Brescia was a reminder that exploring just a few kilometres beyond
the most popular attractions there is a whole world waiting to be discovered.
Rich with the history, culture and food that we all love about Italy.

I was a guest of Visit Brescia and Palazzo Novello on my trip to Brescia. All
opinions are my own.

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2 COMMENTS

TANJA (THE RED PHONE BOX TRAVELS)

19THJULY2017/8:49AM

Ive been to Sirmione but never to Brescia itself

REPLY

KATY
19THJULY2017/10:06AM

Youre so close! Its such a treat. Highly recommend a visit

REPLY

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