HOW TO

REFURBISH
SEWING
MACHINES

A step -by-step
gu ide

for

Sin ger Models

66, 99, 15 K,
an d 201

Netley Marsh, Southampton

Hampshire SO40 7GY
Telephone: 023 8086 9697
Fax: 023 8086 8544
email: info@tfsr.org
Web: www.tfsr.org

Registered Charity : 280437

Tools for Self Reliance 2006


1 GETTING STARTED - INTRODUCTION
INDEX TO SECTIONS
1 GETTING STARTED
A - Introduction...
Using the m anual and
the helpful paperwork
B - The m achines we send
and the ones we dont
C - Tools and m aterials
you will need
D - Recognising the parts
of a sewing m achine
E - Understanding how a
sewing m achine works
2 REFURBISHING
A - The Case
B - The Handle Mechanism
C - The Balance Wheel
D - The Bobbin Winder
E - The Top of the Machine
F - The Tension Mechanism
G - The Head
H - The Lower Bobbin Area
I - The Underside
J - Testing
K - Fault Diagnosis
3 ANCILLARIES
A - Bobbins & Needles
B - Handbooks
C - Sewing Attachm ents
4 TREADLES
A - Treadle Bases
B - Treadle Cabinets
5 ELECTRICS
A - Electric Conversions
B - Electric Machines
6 APPENDIX
A - Glossary
Th an k you for h elp in g Tools for
Self Relian ce. Each year we sen d
h u n dreds of sewin g m ach in es to
p eop le in Africa, m ain ly wom ens
grou p s, wh o are tryin g to m ake
life a little easier for th em selves
an d for th eir com m u n ity.
guThideisonis you r step-by-step
h ow to refu rbish
sew in g m ach in es to an
acceptable stan dard
For th ese reason s we dont ju st
Th ese p eop le are able to m ake
sch ool a n d work u n iform s,
cloth es for ch u rch an d sp ecial
occasion s, an d to alter an d m en d
everyday item s at p rices afford-
able by oth ers in th eir com m u n i-
ty.
Th is m an u al is design ed to be a
step -by-step gu id e on h ow to
refu rbish sewin g m ach in es to an
a ccep ta b le sta n d a rd . It is n ot
in ten d ed th at you read every
word, bu t rath er dip in to it at
ap p rop riate p laces.
p le
We w a n t p e o
to b e d e li gh te
d
e
w h e n th e y se
th e ir sew in g
m a ch in e s.
[1] A - 1
13.1.2006
1
Th e very first th in g to th in k abou t
is th at th e sewin g m ach in e you
are p rep arin g or fixin g is goin g to
be u sed m u ch m ore frequ en tly
th an it h as p reviou sly been .
It is likely to be u sed in du sty con -
dition s an d th e p erson u sin g it
ca n n ot ju st p op d own to th e
sh op to get a rep lacem en t p art or
to h ave a fau lt fixed.
sen d an y sewin g m ach in e. We
wan t to sen d m ach in es th at are
sa fe, will d o th e job n eed ed ,
wh ich will last, an d for wh ich
sp ares are available.
Bear in m in d th at th e
n ew ow n er of th e m ach in e
can n ot ju st pop dow n to
th e sh opfor a spare part.
We wan t p eop le to be deligh ted
wh en th ey see th eir sewin g
m ach in es, n ot dism ayed th at th e
m ach in e is scru ffy an d n ot work-
in g.
We on ly sen d certain m akes an d
m odels an d we h ave a rigorou s
refu rb ish in g p roced u re - alon g
th e lin es of a qu ality fu ll service,
valetin g an d MOT.

1 GETTING STARTED - USING THE MANUAL
Th e b est way to file th e loose
leaves of you r m an u al is in p lastic
sleeves in a bin der - both readily
available at W.H.Sm ith an d m ost
station ers.
Th is en su res th e p ages will be
p reserved an d you can flip
th rou gh th em with dirty or oily
h an ds with ou t a p roblem .
Th e m ain section s of th e m an u al
give com prehen sive description s
of each p art of th e m ach in e with
illu stration s sh owin g th e work to
be don e.
Th e m an u al is com p reh en sive
bu t dont try to absorb all th e
in form ation - ju st dip in to it as
you n eed it.
An d rem em ber, it is m ore acces-
sible wh en you u se it alon gside
th e m ach in e you are workin g on .
If you are ju st begin in g to refu r-
b ish m a ch in es p lea se rea d
Section 1 - Gettin g Started. Th is
ou tlin es th e p rocedu res an d th e
p ap erwork, exp lain s sim p ly h ow
a Sewin g Ma ch in e works a n d
describes th e Sin ger m odels we
are con cern ed with .
From tim e-to-tim e we exp ect to
issu e u p dates of p ages if p olicy
ch an ges or if we learn of a better
way to tackle a task. For th is rea-
son we h ave in clu ded an issu e
date at th e top righ t h an d corn er
of every p age.
[1] A - 2
13.1.2006
1
STEP BY STEP
Th e m an u al is written in section s
wh ich corresp on d to th e section s
of th e Sewin g Mach in e Ch ecklist.
We su ggest you work th rou gh a
m ach in e - section by section - in
th e sam e order as th e list.
Usin g th e m an u al in th is way you
will fin d you h ave all th e in form a-
tion you n eed to fu lly refu rbish
m ach in es an d correct com m on
fau lts.
We w elcom e tips an d feed-back
from you , if you th in k th ere is
som eth in g else w e sh ou ld in clu de
th at w ill be of ben efit to oth er
refu rbish ers.
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - HELPFUL PAPERWORK 1

At Netley Marsh we are sen din g

hun dreds of refurbished m achin es
to Africa wh ilst dealin g with h u n -
d red s of oth er u n refu rb ish ed
m ach in es, so it is im p ortan t th at
we a re a b le to d istin gu ish
m ach in es easily.

For th is reason we h ave variou s

stages of p ap erwork wh ich n eed
to be com p leted p rop erly.

Sewing m achine check list.

Th is is in ten ded as a p rom p t list

for th e tasks to be don e as you are
refu rbish in g a m ach in e - n ot as a
list to b e ticked off a fter th e
m ach in e is fin ish ed.

If you h a ve p rob lem s, th ey

sh ou ld be n oted h ere. (Use th e
back of th e sh eet if it is n eeded as
a con tin u ation ).

Th e list sh ou ld be p u t in side th e
case with th e m ach in e. Please
n ote an y p roblem s or deficien cies
on th e refu rbish m en t record on
th e ou tside of th e case.

The sewing m achine refurbish-

ing record.

Th is is a su m m ary of th e ch eck
list an d sh ou ld be stu ck on an
en d fa ce ou tsid e th e sewin g
m ach in e case.

In th is way, with ou t h avin g to

op en th e m ach in e, th e ch ecker
can see:
a) if th ere are an y p roblem s with
th e m ach in e th at n eed
atten din g to or...
b) if an y sp ares n eed addin g.

[1] A - 3
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - THE MACHINES WE DO SEND 1

RECOGNISING
THE MODELS
Th e m an u al m ach in es we sen d,
both h an dle an d treadle, m u st be
Sin ger rou n d bobbin m odels 66,
99, 15K or 201.

Start by m easu rin g th e len gth of

th e m a ch in e b a se a n d th en
u n coverin g th e bobbin area.

If the base is 300 m m long your

m achine is a 99.

Cau tion : Som e m odern 99s h ave

a solid balan ce wh eel. Th ere is
also a 185 m odel, very sim ilar to
mm
300
th e 99, seen in frequ en tly. Mostly
th ese are electric with a solid bal-
an ce wh eel. We can n ot con vert
eith er of th ese to h an d m ach in es
u n less th e solid wh eel h a s a
n otch to take a h an dle.

Ap art from th e size th e 99 an d 66

m odels are virtu ally th e sam e an d
are kn own as oscillatin g h ook
m ach in es.
99
With Oscillatin g h ook m ach in es
th e stitch form in g m ech an ism is
u n d ern ea th th e m a ch in e b ed
an d oscillates (tu rn s backwards
a n d forwa rd s th rou gh 180
degrees for each stitch ).

By slowly tu rn in g th e b alan ce
wh eel over wh ilst lookin g at th e
lower bobbin assem bly you will
see h ow th e h ook (wh ich fits
arou n d th e bobbin case) rotates
in on e direction an d th en back . It
d oes n ot com p lete a fu ll 360
degree rotation .

mm
370
If the base m easures 370 m m
long and the bobbin is vertical -
as a wheel - then it is a 15K.

It is distin ctive becau se of th e

p rom in en t ten sion m ou n tin g to

15K
th e left of th e face p late.

Th e 15K is also an oscillatin g

h ook m ach in e.

[1] B -1
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - THE MACHINES WE DO SEND 1

If the base is 370 m m long, the

bobbin is lying horizontally flat
an d the ho o k rin g o scillates
back and forward, this is a 66.

Th is is virtu ally a larger an d h eav-

ier version of th e 99.

Sin ger m ade variou s ch an ges an d

m odification s to th ese m ach in es
over th e years.

We later look in detail at th e m ain

ch an ges wh ich affect refu rbish -
m en t. Th ey in clu de (am on g oth -
370 mm
ers) a m ajor ch an ge to th e lower
b ob b in la tch a ssem b ly a n d
ch a n ges to th e u p p er ten sion
m ech an ism .

66

If the base is 370 m m long, the

bobbin is lying horizontally flat
and the hook ring rotates rather
than oscillates then this is a 201.

Th e 201 h as a distin ctive stitch

len gth regu lator con trol (on th e
fron t n ear th e b alan ce wh eel)
with n u m bers for requ ired set-
tin gs.

m
370 m

201
[1] B - 2

1 GETTING STARTED - THE MACHINES WE DO NOT SEND
(1) Long Bobbin
We do not send m ach in es wh ich
u se th is typ e of lon g bobbin (or
sh u ttle) becau se we are n ot con -
fiden t th at sp ares for th em are
readily available in African coun -
ties.
Sh u ttle bobbin m ach in es are eas-
ily recogn ised becau se th ey h ave
two lon g cover p lates over th e
b ob b in a rea (rou n d bobbin
m ach in es h ave a sin gle cover
plate over th e bobbin area.)
Th e rou n d bobbin tech n ology is
u sed on p resen t day m ach in es,
wh ich gu aran tees its con tin u ed
wide distribu tion .
ur
o t w as te yo
Ple as e d o n fo rt o n
e an d ef
va lu ab le ti m f th es e
an y o
re fu rb is h in g
in es .
typ e o f m ac h
In general, if you get a m achine
which is not one of our 15K, 66,
99 o r 201 specified m o dels,
please check with Netley before
working on it.
(2) Sm all Tension
We do n o t sen d 66 or 99
m ach in es if th ey h ave a sm all
ten sion m ech an ism becau se we
ca n n ot get th e rep la cem en t
sp rin gs for th em .
(3) Rim Bobbin Winders
We do not send an y early m odels
with th e bobbin win ders workin g
on th e rim of th e balan ce wh eel
as sh own h ere. We can n ot get th e
ru bber rin gs in th is large size.
Neith er do we sen t early Model
15s (with ou t th e K su ffix) as th e
n eedle th reads in th e op p osite
direction , an d wou ld be con fu s-
in g for th e recip ien t.
( Th e 201 also th read s in th e
op p osite direction bu t we receive
en ou gh of th ese to su p p ly all 201s
in a grou p kit).
[1] B - 3
13.1.2006
1
(4) Electric Conversions
Over th e years a n u m ber of 15K,
66, 99 an d 201 m an u al m ach in es
were con verted for u se to elec-
tricity.
We do not send electrically con -
verted m ach in es in th is form as
we h ave a good su p p ly of m odern
electrics wh ich h ave greater ver-
satility. We con vert them back for
m an ual u se by rem ovin g th e bolt-
on m otor an d ligh t an d th en we
fit a h an dle.
Later m ach in es, design ed solely
for u se with electric m otors, h ad
n o u se of a sp oked balan ce wh eel
an d th e solid wh eel was in tro-
du ced.
Som e solid wh eels
h ave an in den ted
slot cu t in to th em
an d can be con vert-
ed to h an d op eration .
An y 'lon g base' m ach in es (m ain -
ly 201s) can be con verted to trea-
d le op eration . Th ere is a fu ll
exp lan ation of wh en m ach in es
can be m odified to h an d op era-
tion on p age [2] C-2.
Alth ou gh th ey are rare, be aware
th at th ere are two m odels, th e
201K2 an d th e 15K91 wh ich h ave
th e electric m otor bu ilt in to th e
m ain p illar. Th is m ean s th at even
if you a tta ch a h a n d le m ech -
an ism , th e drag of th e m otor is
su b sta n tia l so u se th em for
sp ares on ly.
Dont waste tim e on con version s.
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - TOOLS YOU WILL NEED 1

Screwdrivers:

Th e m ain tool you will be u sin g is

a screwdriver an d a well ch osen
selection of sizes is essen tial.
Sin ger screws h ave n arrow slots
so m ake su re th e screwd rivers
h ave th in blades to fit th em .

Som e of th e sm aller screws are

set in to recesses, so ch oose
screwdrivers with p arallel sides
to th e blade if p ossible:

Ideal sizes an d blade w idth s are:

9-10 m m with good h an dle

(for stu bborn screw s).
5 m m with sh aft len gth of
3-5 cm (n eeds to be sh ort for
aw k w ard places).
4 m m with sh aft len gth of
20 cm (opposite reason to th at
above).
4 m m - n ot lon ger th an
16 cm overall.
3 m m - n ot lon ger th an
13 cm overall.
2 m m Sin gers Ten sion
screwdriver.

We h ave m ade th is selection of An effective an swer to extra leverage for stu bborn larger screws is to u se a sp an n er as
screwdrivers available to h an d at a h an dle on a squ are-sh an ked screwdriver. (You can u se Mole Grip s on rou n d sh an ks).
each of th e work p laces in th e
Netley Marsh sewin g m ach in e
worksh op.

In addition , we h ave fou n d th e

followin g ran ge of tools are u sed
all th e tim e - th ey in clu de:.

Frequently used tools:

Tweezers
En gin eers Pliers
(m ediu m size)
Sn ip e n osed p liers
Scissors
Sm all Nail Pu n ch
Needle Th reader

Piece of sh eet m etal 1 (2.5

cm ) square x .048 - .050 thick
for gau gin g Feed Dog h eigh t.

A p lastic box, tin lid or oth er

recep tacle in wh ich to p u t all
rem oved screws etc.

[1] C - 1
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - TOOLS & MATERIALS YOU WILL NEED 1

Occasionally used tools:

Th e followin g tools are n eeded

less frequ en tly. We keep exam p les
of th ese available for com m u n al
u se in th e Netley worksh op :

Mediu m an d sm all h am m er
Mallet
Large screwdriver 13 m m ,
p articu larly for dism an tlin g
h an dles.
Cran ked (righ t-an gled)
screwdriver, or lon g 4 m m
screwdriver with blade cu t at
an an gle of ap p roxim ately 150.
AF Rin g Sp an n ers: 5/ 16, 3/ 8,
7/ 16, 1/ 2, 9/ 16, 5/ 8, 11/ 16,
an d 3/ 4. We bu y rin gs, th read take u p sp rin gs, n eedles an d belts n ew an d can
Adju stable Sp an n er su p p ly th ese to you p robably ch eap er th an you can get th em locally
Mole Grip s
1ft steel ru le, m etal tap e Consum ables
m easu re.
Ph ilip s screwdrivers Th ick felt strip s to cu t Y Clean m aterial.
G Clam p s sh ap es. (for oilin g h ook rin g). (to test m ach in e w ith ,
Saws, h acksaw, ju n ior Th in felt for cu ttin g rin gs. e.g. old cotton bed sh eets).
h acksaw, cop in g saw. (for cotton reel rests). Reels of cotton to test th e
Ru bber rin gs (tyres). m ach in e with . (tw o con trast-
Han d drill an d selection of in g colou rs su ch as red an d
(for bobbin w in der).
sm all drills. yellow are best).
Ten sion sp rin gs.
Pin cers an d wire cu tters. Needles Leath er drive belts.
Files (n ew, for testin g stitch in g). (for treadles).
Cen tre an d n ail p u n ch es.
Sm all En gin eers vice.
Sm all block of wood.
(n ot essen tial bu t very u sefu l).

Tools and m aterials

for cleaning and oiling

Tooth bru sh .
1 dry p ain tbru sh .
Oth er sm all bru sh es.
Brass wire bru sh .
Fin e em ery p ap er.
Scou rin g p ads.
Fin e wire wool
Plen ty of clean , n on -flu ffy rag
A can of sewin g m ach in e oil.
(please do n ot u se an y oth er
type of oil). Spare Parts
Freein g p en etratin g oil.
(AC90 is u sed at Netley Marsh If you are in n eed of a sp are p art, it is well worth wh ile keep in g an y
an d is excellen t bu t W D40 is we h old stocks of som e secon d scrap m ach in es for sp are p arts.
m ore available). h an d p arts from old m ach in es at
Netley Marsh - ch eck with you r Dont be tem p ted to strip a
If you n eed h elp gettin g h old of Grou p Su p p ort Worker. m ach in e to a p ile of n u ts an d
a n y of th ese tools ca ll Netley bolts. It is better to keep a scrap
Marsh to see if we m igh t be able If you are regu larly refu rbish in g m ach in e in on e p iece an d rob it
to h elp. m ach in es (an d h ave th e space)... for sp ares as n eeded.

[1] C - 2
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - RECOGNISING THE MACHINE PARTS 1

Bobbin
Presser Sp ool win der
regu latin g th u m b- p in
screw

Arm Stitch len gth

regu lator

Bed p late

Han dle

201 MODEL

Balan ce wh eel

Th read
take u p
lever Clam p stop
m otion screw
Presser
foot
lifter

Ten sion
m ech an ism
Face
p late Needle
bar
Presser
bar

Needle
clam p in g
screw Feed
Presser dog
foot (u n der
p resser
foot)
Th roat
p late

[1] D - 1
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - RECOGNISING THE MACHINE PARTS 1

In th e p ictu res on th e p reviou s

p ages are th e n am es of th e m ain
p a rts of th e sewin g m a ch in e
66
wh ich we h ave u sed in th is m an -
u al.

Becau se m odels vary, som e of th e

p a rts a n d con trols m a y look
sligh tly differen t bu t th ey do p ro-
vide th e sam e fu n ction .
15k

Stitch length regulator

controls.
99 201
Th e p ictu res op p osite sh ow th e
m ain styles of th e stitch len gth
regu lator con trols.

Th e ea rlier m od els req u ired

exp erien ce an d gu esswork b u t
later 99 m odels (as sh own ) h ad a
n u m bered gu ide to stitch es p er
in ch . New
Style
Th e in trodu ction of th e 201 (bot-
tom righ t) p rovid ed 8 forward
stitch len gth s an d th e sam e in
reverse.. Old
Style

Tension Mechanism .
Top of the m achine: 15k
Exp lain ed fu lly in th e followin g
section on How a Sewin g
Mach in e Works, th e p osition an d
look of th e m ain (top ) ten sion
66 & 99
m ech an ism also varies with dif-
feren t m odels.

Th e 15K is th e m ost distin ctive,

m ou n ted ou tside th e m ach in e at
th e face p late en d.

Early 99s are th e sam e as 66s bu t

th e later on es look like th e 201
an d h ave a disc-dial with n u m ber
settin gs.

Bottom of the m achine:

Th e b ob b in ca se m u st b e 201
revea led for th e d ifferen ces
between m odels to be ap p reciat-
ed. Th is too is dealt with in th e
n ext section .

[1] D - 2
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - HOW A SEWING MACHINE WORKS 1

Th e m ech an ism of a sewin g

m ach in e can be divided in to th e
fou r areas: Rotatin g
drivesh aft
1. MOTIVE SOURCE
2. STITCH FORMATION
3. FABRIC MOVEMENT Hook
Hook Rin g
Rin g Cran k
4. THREAD CONTROL Needle
bar
Bobbin win din g is in th e n atu re
of an add-on activity, covered by
its own section .

All th e illu stration s in th is section

are of a Model 66 or 99. Variation s
for oth er m odels are described in
th e section s d ealin g w ith th e
in dividu al featu res.

1. MOTIVE SOURCE
Wh eth er h an d driven or p owered
by an electric m otor or treadle Rotatin g
b elt, th e con n ection to th e drivesh aft
m ach in e is th e b alan ce wh eel.
Th is serves to even ou t an y
lu m p in ess in th e m ach in e to
give a sm ooth action . Th ese levers con vert th e revolu -
tion of th e drive sh aft
2. STITCH FORMATION ...in to th e u p an d down m ove-
m en t of th e n eedle bar.
Need le m ovem ent :

Th e rotatin g d rivesh aft in th e

arm of th e m ach in e con n ects to
th e n eedle bar th rou gh levers in
th e h ead to p rodu ce th e u p an d
down m ovem en t of th e n eedle.

Th e sewin g m ach in e n eedle is a

h igh ly sop h istica ted p iece of
design wh ich we look at in detail
on th e followin g p age.

Stitch m aking :
Th e h ook rin g cran k
Th e d rive sh aft h as a vertical sh aft lin ks with levers
cran k attach ed to it, goin g down to tu rn th e h ook rin g
u n der th e base p late. Again , by a below th e base p late
in a p art circle...
series of levers, th is con n ects to a
h ook rin g.

Th e h ook rin g p icks u p th e u p p er ...an d th e h ook p icks

th read an d gu ides it rou n d th e u p th e loop m ade by
bobbin h oldin g th e lower th read. th e n eedle.

Usin g th e u p an d down m ove-

m en t of th e n eedle an d th e rota-
tion of th e h ook rin g th e two
th read s are loop ed togeth er to
form th e stitch .

[1] E - 1
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - HOW A SEWING MACHINE WORKS 1

2. STITCH FORMATION
(Con tin u ed)

The Need le : Flat side at th e top en d to secu re it

to th e n eedle bar.
Th e n eedle u sed in m ost of th e
d om estic m ach in es we h an d le
h as th e followin g featu res:
On th e op p osite side a lon g grove
ru n s from n ear th e top, down to
A flat side at th e top en d to th e eye. With ou t th is groove to act
secu re it to th e n eedle bar. as a ch an n el th e n eedle cou ld n ot
(in terlockers an d som e fu n ction p rop erly
in du strials u se rou n d
n eedles).
Sh ort groove.
On th e sam e side of th e
n eedle, a th in n in g of th e
n eedle ju st above th e eye.

On th e op p osite side of th e
n eedle, a groove ru n s from Downward Upward
n ear th e top, down to th e stroke Sp ool stroke
eye. th read

As th e n eedle
Wh en th e n eedle p ierces th e fab- p asses th rou gh Bobbin
ric on th e down stroke, th e th read th e cloth ... th read.
on on e side will lie in th e groove.

Wh en th e n eedle starts to rise

again , th e th read in th e groove ...th e groove is
rises with it, bu t on th e oth er lon g en ou gh an d Stitch for-
sid e, th e th rea d is p in ch ed deep en ou gh to Sh ort m ation .
allow th e th read groove.
between th e cloth an d th e side of to ru n th rou gh it
th e n eedle freely. On th e u pward
stroke th e friction
Th is friction again st th e fab ric between th e th read
cau ses th e th read to be retarded an d th e cloth p ro-
an d a loop is form ed ju st above du ces a loop.
th e eye of th e n eedle.

Th e u pward stroke of th e n eedle Bobbin th read Up p er th read

creates th e cru cial m om en t in th e
sewin g cycle an d, as you can see
from th e illu stration , th e action
takes p lace ben eath th e cloth .
Needle

The Hook Ring :

As th e h ook rin g tu rn s in its p art

circle, th e h ook p icks u p th e loop
m ade by th e n eedle an d drags it
rou n d th e lower bobbin .

Th e th read th en slip s off th e Th is action in th e stitch cycle is Accu rate syn ch ron isation (or
h ook an d, as th e n eedle bar rises, th e m ost im p ortan t com bin ation tim in g) between the sim ultaneous
is p u lled rou n d th e lower bobbin of m ovem en ts p erform ed by th e tasks of stitch form ation is essen-
to m ake th e stitch . m ach in e. tial for th e m ach in e to work.

On th e far righ t, you can see th at
th e b ob b in th rea d h a s b een
en circled by th e stitch loop
form ed by th e top th read.
An d yet, at n orm al sewin g sp eed,
it on ly takes abou t a fifth of a sec-
on d to com p lete, wh ich is
ap p roxim ately th e tim e requ ired
to win k you r eye.
If you th read u p a m ach in e, an d
sew a few stitch es slowly on th e
edge of a p iece of cloth with th e
cover p late op en , you can see th is
stitch form ation for you rself.

[1] E - 2

1 GETTING STARTED - HOW A SEWING MACHINE WORKS
3. FABRIC MOVEMENT
At each revolu tion of th e m ach in e
th e teeth of th e feed d og rise
sligh tly above th e base p late.
Presser
foot
(raised) Fe e d
dog
teeth
Th e teeth grip th e u n derside of
th e cloth an d feed it forward a
tin y m ea su red a m ou n t d eter-
m in ed by th e settin g of th e stitch
len gth regu lator.
Th e m ovem en t of th e feed dog is
gen era ted th rou gh yet m ore
levers, from an oth er vertical sh aft
workin g from th e drive sh aft.
Fabric control:
Th e fabric is h eld tigh t du rin g
stitch in g by th e p resser foot
squ eezin g th e fabric again st th e
teeth of th e feed dog or th e th roat
p late wh ile th e feed dog is below
th e p late.
Th e am ou n t of p ressu re can be
regu lated by th e p resser regu lat-
in g screw on top of th e h ead an d
released com p letely by raisin g
th e p resser bar lifter.
Wh ile th e n eed le a n d
th read p en etrate th e fab-
ric, th e feed dog is still
a n d th e fa b ric is h eld
between th e p resser foot
a n d th e th roa t p la te,
keep in g it tau t.
As th e n eedle descen ds,
so does th e feed dog.
13.1.2006
1
Presser
regu latin g
screw
Presser
bar lifter
Stitch len gth
Presser Feed adju ster
foot dog
Feed dog
cran k
Feed dog rock sh aft
Th e feed dog cran k is
p ivoted h alfway down .
Th e op eration of th e stitch
len gth kn ob ch an ges th e
p osition of th is p ivot...
...wh ich varies th e
am ou n t of m ovem en t
of th e feed dog...
...an d con trols
th e stitch len gth .
As th e n eedle is com in g As th e n eedle con tin u es As th e stitch is bein g set,
u p ou t of th e fabric, th e to m ove u p, an d to brin g th e feed dog rises above
feed dog is m ovin g back. th e stitch with it, th e th e th roat p late, an d its
feed dog is also m ovin g teeth m oves th e fabric
Th e fabric is still h eld u p towards th e fabric. forwa rd by on e stitch
b etween th e p resser len gth .
foot a n d th e th roa t Th e fabric is still h eld
p late. b etween th e p resser
foot a n d th e th roa t
p late.
[1] E - 3
 13.1.2006

1 GETTING STARTED - HOW A SEWING MACHINE WORKS 1

4. THREAD CONTROL (3) Th e u p p er ten sion is released

Stitch tension:
Th e tigh tn ess of th e stitch is con -
trolled by two differen t ten sion
m ech an ism s:
com p letely wh en th e p resser bar
lifter is raised. Th e lifter p resses
on a p in wh ich in tu rn p u sh es th e
discs ap art.
Wh en th e ten sion is released th e
fabric can be rem oved easily.

Slack thread lever:

Wh ile th e u p p er th read is bein g

taken rou n d th e lower bobbin it
is m akin g a large loop.

4 Slack
th read
Bobbin take u p
th read lever
ten sion
screw 1

(1) Th e bobbin h as a sm all sp rin g

on its case, wh ich delivers th e
th read u n der a sligh t ten sion .

Slack 2
th read
lever
(4) To p rovide su fficien t th read
for th is loop (n ot u n der ten sion )
th e th read take u p lever on th e
h ead travels d own ward s, risin g
again to p u ll th e stitch tigh t.

Thread take up sp ring:

Th u m b As th e slack th read lever reach es

Discs nut th e top of its travel, th e feed dog
is also m ovin g forward to m ake
(2) Th e m ain ten sion m ech an ism th e stitch .
is on th e u p p er th read, on th e
h ead of th e m ach in e. Th read
take u p
sp rin g
Th e th read p asses between two
sau cer sh ap ed discs. Th e p res-
su re between th e discs can be
varied by th e ten sion regu lat-in g
th u m b n u t

(ii) p u sh es (iii) wh ich 3

again st p resses
secon d on en d of
lever... ten sion
release p in

At th is p oin t th e th read is u n der

extra ten sion an d - to avoid sn ap -
(i) p in g th e th read at lon g stitch
Presser len gth s - it is p assed th rou gh th e
release th read take u p sp rin g in th e ten -
arm sion m ech an ism wh ich cu sh ion s
lifted... th e strain .

[1] E - 4
 13.1.2006

2 REFURBISHING - SEWING MACHINE CASES 2

(7) Clean out all debris from

under the m achine and
from the accessories
com partm ent.

Rem em b er th a t th e m a ch in es
will n ot rem ain u p righ t du rin g
tran sit, so an y p in s, n eedles an d
flu ff in th e bottom m ay well be
d ep osited in th e works d u rin g
th at tim e u n less you rem ove it.

4
(1) Rou n d b ob b in m a ch in es (4) Release the retaining catch.
com e in a variety of cases, bu t
m ostly in th e su itcase, (sh own
above) or dom ed types (as below).

(8) Exam ine the state of any

accessories and needles
5 present for rust and
dam age. Discard any that
(5) Rem ove the m achine from are not in good condition.
2 its case by tilting it back and
undoing the two grub screws.

(2) Exam ine cases for signs of

woodworm !

Cu stom s do exam in e sh ip m en ts.

Sign s of worm - treated or n ot -
h ave p reviou sly d elayed en tire
sh ip m en ts. Th is is n ot on ly a dis-
a p p oin tm en t, b u t a lso in cu rs
exp en sive p ort levies for delayin g
clearan ce. So discard th e box, do
n ot treat it.
9
6
(9) Turn the base over and
m ake sure the bolts holding
(6) Then lift it clear of the two in the m achine hinges are
finger hinges. present and tight.

Sligh t dam age to th e case is n ot

im p ortan t, bu t th e case sh ou ld
be secu re an d safe to u se. Ch eck
all join ts an d re-glu e wh ere n eed-
ed. Make su re th e corn er blocks
are p resen t an d secu re. Eith er re-
3
glu e or rem ove an y ven eer th at
h as sp lit. Holes in th e bottom
(3) Th e m ach in e itself is h eld in a m ay be rep aired eith er by rep lac-
wooden base by two h in ges at th e in g th e p ly com p letely or wh ere
back of th e m ach in e an d a catch 7 th e d am age is sm all glu in g a
at th e righ t h an d side. p atch to th e in side of th e base.

[2] A - 1

2 REFURBISHING - SEWING MACHINE CASES
10
(10) If one or m ore of the rubber
feet are worn or m issing,
rem ove all four com pletely.
11
(11) Make sure the sm all half
m oon leather or rubber
pieces are intact on top of
the corner blocks at the
front of the m achine.
Th ese deaden an y vibration an d
also lift th e m ach in e a little so
th at th e cover p late does n ot fou l
th e sid e of th e b a se wh en
op en ed.
Dom ed case:
Th e lid an d th e b ase are h eld
togeth er by a lock at on e en d, an d
a case fittin g at th e oth er.
12
13.1.2006
2
(12) Th ree d ifferen t keys h ave
been u sed over th e years. Th e Typ e B
sq u a re en d ed on e ca m e first,
th en th e on e with th e flat ton gu e,
followed by th e n otch ed on e. Th is
last typ e can n ot be rem oved from
th e lock wh ile th e lock is u n don e.
15
If a key is m issin g, th e lid can be
u n locked with a sm all screw-dri-
ver, or th e tan g of a file for th e
first typ e. Typ e C
16
(15) Typ e B an d (16) Typ e C are
less p rob lem a tica l, b u t ca n
som etim es becom e ben t. Make
su re th e bottom fittin g lies level
with th e case, an d th e top on e
13 th en secu res th e case.
(13) If the key is m issing m ake a
replacem ent from a flat cut nail,
with the end filed as required
and the other end bent for grip.
Th e case fittin gs vary bu t in each
case, th ey rely on th e lock to h old
th e lid in correct align m en t.
Each p air of fittin gs works in th e
sam e way with th e top fittin g
en terin g th e bottom on e, an d th e
lid th en slid to th e left to en gage. 17
Typ e A (17) Clean out any fluff etc from
the case fittings to ensure
they can latch properly.
14 18
(14) Typ e A in th e p ictu re is an (18) Oil the lock and work it a
early m odel an d attach es to th e few tim es to m ake sure it is
ou tside of th e case. working easily.
Qu ite often th e fixin g screws Th e lock is on ly attach ed to its
work loose. If th e h oles are too cover p late by two sm all flan ges.
worn to tigh ten th e screws, p u sh If th ese h ave becom e loose, th ey
a sliver of wood in to th e h oles can be tap p ed with a h am m er
an d try again . an d p u n ch to tigh ten th em .
[2] A - 2

2 REFURBISHING - SEWING MACHINE CASES
19
(19) Check that the handle is
secure. Tighten up the nuts
inside the lid.
If th e h an dle h as been loose for a
wh ile, th e wood m ay be broken
rou n d it. If so, sp read th e load by
san dwich in g th e h an dle between
m etal p lates ou tside an d in side
th e lid.
Suitcase type case
20
(20) Th e m a ch in e in its b a se
slides in to th e box, wh ich op en s
from th e side. Th ere are two bat-
ten s at each side th at p reven t th e
m ach in e from m ovin g.
Two typ es of fasten in gs are u sed
on th ese cases. On e is a su itcase
typ e lock with latch an d lock.
Sin ce th e latch is secu re en ou gh ,
we do n ot both er with p rovidin g
keys.
(21) Th e oth er typ e u ses sp rin g
catch es, an d th ese can be dam -
aged. Rep lace th em with a sim -
p le latch , or fasten u p with strin g
or rop e an d leave it to u s at
Netley Marsh , as we h ave sp ares.
21
22
(22) Th e bottom of th e lid h as
p in s, wh ich fit in to h oles in sm all
m etal p lates at th e bottom of th e
box. Make su re th ese are in tact.
Th e leath erette cover of th e case
is frequ en tly scu ffed an d torn .
Wh ere p ossible glu e down an y
torn p ieces.
Finally, for all types
23
(23) Wipe over the outside of the
box with a dam p cloth to
rem ove flyspecks and dirt.
If you wish , a fin al p olish can be
given . It can m ake it difficu lt to
attach th e Refu rbish m en t Record
form th ou gh !
[2] A - 3
13.1.2006
2
24
(24) You m ay fin d a base exten -
sion p iece in side th e box like th e
on e sh own above. Th is is a rou gh -
ly squ are wooden p iece with a
m etal bracket at on e en d.
25
(25) It fits in to th e left h an d bot-
tom case fittin g to exten d th e
workin g area. Th ere is a differen t
bracket for case fittin gs B or C.
If p resen t, ch eck th at: a. It is th e
righ t fittin g for th e case. (Cases
do get swap p ed abou t), an d b.
Th at it is in good con dition with
n o loose p ly or ben t brackets.
For storage, th e exten sion p iece is
kep t in th e lid of both typ es of
ca ses. Th e b ra cket fits in to a
n otch or slot at on e en d, wh ile a
wooden bracket h olds an op p o-
site corn er. It is th en h eld in
p lace by a catch sim ilar to th at
h oldin g th e m ach in e in th e case.
Ma ke su re th is ca tch is tigh t
en ou gh to do its fu n ction .
26
(26) You will som etim es fin d
oth er m etal fittin gs in sid e th e
cases, in ten ded to locate oil can s
etc. You m ay rem ove th ese as
th ey are n ot n eeded.

2 HANDLE MECHANISM
Th e h an dle attach m en t m ay h ave
su ffered wear an d tear bu t we
h ave to en su re it is in good con di-
tion both com fortable an d qu iet
to u se for h ou rs at a tim e.
(1) Rem ove the m achine from
its case. The handle arm will
will be folded down.
2
(2) Place the handle in its
working position by lifting
the arm and clicking into
place. To release pull the
sm all spring stud.
On older m ach in es, th e h an dle is
h eld in th e latch ed p osition by a
p in in sid e th e b ra cket, ra th er
th an th e sp rin g stu d.
If th e sp rin g in side th e bracket is
broken an d th e p in does n ot h old
th e h an dle arm in p osition , eith er
ch a n ge th e h a n d le from a n y
sp ares you m ay h ave, or n ote it
on th e refu rbish m en t record on
th e ou tside of th e case an d Netley
Marsh will ch an ge it.
Make su re th e wooden h an dle is
free from worm or sp lits an d
tu rn s freely on th e sp in dle. If it is
stiff ap p ly som e p en etratin g oil
an d leave for a wh ile.
Ch eck th at th e wooden h an dle is
tu rn in g on its sp in dle, n ot th at
th e sp in dle is tu rn in g with it. Th e
sp in dle sh ou ld be secu rely h eld
in th e cran k h an dle lever, n eith er
tu rn in g with th e wooden h an dle,
n or bein g loose.
3
(3) A possible solution to
correct this problem is to
rest the end of the handle
on a m etal object and
tighten the joint using a
punch and ham m er.
If th e h an dle is in p oor con dition
or refu ses to bu dge, it cou ld be
m ore p rodu ctive to exch an ge it
for a better qu ality sp are u n it. If
you dont h ave a sp are, h igh ligh t
th e p rob lem on th e refu rb ish -
m en t record on th e ou tside of th e
case an d we will rep lace th e u n it
from ou r stock at Netley.
It is worth n otin g th at som e h an -
dle u n its vary in size an d are n ot
in terch an geable between differ-
en t m od els. In p a rticu la r, th e
b ra cket len gth va ries. If you
ch an ge h an dles between m odels,
m ake su re th at th e driver arm
en gages with th e balan ce wh eel
with ou t fou lin g th e b ob b in
win der wh en it is latch ed down .
4
[2] B - 1
13.1.2006
2
(4) Detach the handle
m echanism from the
m achine body by undoing
the single screw bolt.
Th e m ach in e you are workin g on
h a s p rob a b ly stood id le for a
n u m ber of years an d th e oil in th e
h an dle gear h ou sin g m ay h ave
becom e gu m m ed.
5
(5) Rem ove the cover plate to
reveal the internal gear
m echanism and m ake sure
the workings are clean and
free from grim e and any odd
bits of lint or thread.
After clean in g, tu rn th e h an dle
slowly th rou gh a com p lete tu rn .
If th ere is resistan ce at an y p oin t,
exam in e th e teeth an d clean ou t
an y debris.
Ap p ly a drop of oil before rep lac-
in g th e cover p late. Th ere are oil-
in g h oles in both th e drive arm
an d th e m ain gear. Ap p ly a drop
of oil to each an d ru n for a few
tu rn s.
6
(6) Hold the reassem bled unit in
your left hand and ensure
the whole m echanism runs
sm oothly and easily.

2 HANDLE MECHANISM
(7) See that the sm all hinged
flap on the rear drive arm
turns back easily and is
properly cushioned.
Th is fla p loca tes b etween th e
sp okes of th e balan ce wh eel an d
en gages th e m ach in e ready for
u se.
(8) Older m ach in es h ave a th in
leath er sleeve on th e en d of th e
h in ged fla p to cu sh ion a n d
silen ce th e action . If th e leath er is
worn ou t or m issin g th e m ach in e
will be n oisy.
(9) To re-cushion the hinged
flap, trim off any excess
leather and press a tight
fittingsm all piece of plastic
tubing over the arm .
13.1.2006
2
10
(10) More m od ern m ach in es
h ave a fib re p ad with a sm all
m etal p late an d screw to h old it
in p lace.
If th e p ad is m issin g or b ad ly
worn , rep lace it if you h ave an y
sp ares. Oth erwise, n ote it on th e
refu rbish m en t record on th e ou t-
side of th e case an d Netley Marsh
will ch an ge it.
Pu t th e refu rb ish ed h a n d le
m ech a n ism with its fa sten in g
screw to on e side u n til th e rest of
th e refu rb ish m en t h a s b een
don e.
[2] B- 2

2 REFURBISHING - BALANCE WHEEL: DISMANTLE & CLEAN
Standard Spoked Wheels:
Wh en en ga ged , th e b a la n ce
wh eel tran sm its th e p ower from
th e h an dle (or treadle) to ru n th e
m ach in e. Th e com bin ed weigh t
a n d sp in n in g m otion h elp s
sm ooth ou t th e action .
Wh en disen gaged from th e m ain
tran sm ission , th e balan ce wh eel
is used to drive the bobbin win der.
1 wh eel is badly p itted or ru sted, a
(1) Slacken the sm all pin screw
in the face of the shiny
knurled hub disc - known as
the stop m otion screw.
2
(2) Unscrew the stop m otion
screw hub disc.
3 (6) If the wheel is still seized
(3) Rem ove and clean the odd
shaped clutch washer.
4 7
(4) Draw the balance wheel off
its spindle then clean and oil
spindle and wheel bearing.
If th e wh eel is tigh t on th e sh aft,
try easin g it by liberally ap p lyin g
p en etratin g oil.
If th e ou ter rim of th e balan ce
rep lacem en t wh eel m ay be th e
best solu tion .
(5) If the balance wheel is really
stuck, place a block of wood
beneath the needle bar.
Th is p reven ts th e m ach in e from
tu rn in g wh ile you work th e bal-
a n ce wh eel free. Do n ot u se
excessive force becau se th ere is a
dan ger of disru p tin g th e tim in g.
on the shaft, turning it
slowly whilst tapping
gently with a fibre m allet
should dislodge it...
[2] C - 1
13.1.2006
2
(7) ...or, if you have one, use a
Gear Puller like the one
illustrated above.
You m ay n eed to reverse th e arm s
so th e h ooks are p oin tin g ou t-
wards an d can lock on th e rim of
th e balan ce wh eel th rou gh th e
sp okes.
Solid & Larger Size Wheels:
Mach in es with sp oked b alan ce
wh eels are design ed for u se with
h an dles an d/ or treadles.
8
(8) Som e very early m ach in es
h ave balan ce wh eels with a th ick
rim like th e on e sh own . Th is can
som etim es p reclu de th e op p or-
tu n ity of in ter-ch an gin g h an dles
from som e oth er later m odels.
9

2 REFURBISHING - BALANCE WHEEL: STOP MOTION - RE-ASSEMBLY 2
Som e m ach in es are design ed to
be driven solely by a belt an d
h ave a solid balan ce wh eel like
th e on e sh own .
(9) Dism antle and draw a solid
wheel off its spindle in the
sam e way as a spoked one.
Th ese solid balan ce wh eels h ave
a larger diam eter flan ge for th e
bobbin win der to work on th an
th e sp oked wh eels.
We can n ot th erefore ju st su bsti-
tu te a sp oked wh eel, as th e bob-
bin win der can n ot be adju sted to
en gage with th e sp oked balan ce
wh eel.
10
(10) Check if the bobbin winder
attaches at the top of the
m achine.
If so, th e balan ce wh eel an d th e
bobbin win der can be ch an ged as
a p air. If you do n ot h ave sp ares,
n ote it on th e refu rb ish m en t
record on th e ou tside of th e case
an d Netley Marsh will ch an ge it.
11
(11) In m ost cases you will fin d
th at th e bobbin win der attach es
by screws a t th e sid e of th e
m a ch in e b eh in d th e b a la n ce
wh eel.
All is n ot lost in th is case, as we
can u se an y lon g base m ach in e -
15K, 66 or 201- for a treadle base,
releasin g a sp oked balan ce wh eel
m ach in e for con version to h an d.
Again , a few solid balan ce wh eels
h ave an in den ted n otch cu t in
th em to allow a h an dle to be fit-
ted.
We do n ot recom m en d th at th is
con version is attem p ted on oth er
m ach in es su ch as 99 an d 185.
12
(12) Th e p ictu re above sh ows th e
Ba la n ce Wh eel (stop m otion )
bu sh in g on th e en d of th e en d of
th e drivesh aft.
Wh at con cern s u s is th e op era-
tion an d adju stm en t of th e clu tch
m ech an ism wh ich is com m on to
all th e m ach in es we sen d.
13
(13) Here we see th e en d of th e
bu sh in g, p rojectin g th rou gh th e
h u b of th e balan ce wh eel. Notice
p articu larly th e n otch es at th e
en d of th e bu sh in g.
[2] C - 2
13.1.2006
14
(14) Now th e clam p stop m otion
(or clu tch ) wa sh er h a s b een
added an d you can see h ow th e
two in side lu gs fit in to th e two
n otch es at th e en d of th e sh aft.
Notice h ow th ese lu gs ben d ou t-
ward from th e bu sh in g. Th is is
im p ortan t becau se it p rovides a
creep in g action for tigh ten in g th e
clu tch .
In oth er words, th e clam p stop
m otion wash er acts like an ordi-
n ary sp rin g wash er excep t th at it
is n ot design ed to lock in to p osi-
tion .
If th e lu gs are p oin ted in ward
th ere is n o give to th e wash er at
all. It locks alm ost in stan tly an d is
likely to work loose wh en th e
m ach in e is workin g.
Exa ct a d ju stm en t of th e stop
m otion wash er is an easy m atter
if th e clu tch is u n derstood.
15
(15) Th is p ictu re sh ows th e
reverse side of th e h u b disc an d
th e stop p in screw th at th reads
th rou gh th e h ole.

2 REFURBISHING - BALANCE WHEEL: STOP MOTION - RE-ASSEMBLY 2
16
(16) Wh en th readed in to p osition
th e en d of th e screw p rojects far
en ou gh th rou gh th e h ole so it
can strike again st th e ou tside ear
lu gs.
Wh en win d in g a b ob b in it is
d esirab le to h ave th e b alan ce
wh eel ru n free, an d n ot tu rn th e
d rivesh aft wh ich op erates th e
m ach in e.
Im agin e you cou ld see wh at was
h ap p en in g beh in d th e disc...
To h elp you u n d ersta n d , th e
action th e followin g p h otos are
m irror im ages.
17
(17) Th e h u b disc is u n screwed
(an ti-clockwise) releasin g th e
p ressu re u n til th e p in clicks
again st an ou ter ear lu g, stop p in g
the hub from un doin g com pletely.
Wh en th e bobbin is wou n d, th e
op erator tu rn s th e clam p stop
h u b screw clockwise an d, in so
doin g, tigh ten s th e clu tch .
Th e wh ite lin es added to p h oto
(16), sh ow wh ere th e tip s of th e
p rojectin g sp ru n g lu gs ru b
again st th e in side su rface of th e
h u b screw.
13.1.2006
18
(18) If, wh en th e h u b is screwed
in to its m axim u m , it is still n ot
tigh t en ou gh - you will h ave to
rem ove th e clu tch wash er an d
tu rn it th rou gh 180 degrees.
Th e dotted lin es sh ow h ow by
doin g th is you get six tim es m ore
m ovem en t between th e p in an d
th e ea r lu g wh ich a llows th e
th read of th e h u b screw to bite
deeper an d in creases the pressure.
Wh en you rep la ce th e stop
m otion screw, you can h ave n o
idea wh eth er you h ave located
th e wash er correctly.
However, it will soon b ecom e
obviou s. If it isn 't righ t, take off
th e screw, tu rn th e wash er rou n d
180O an d try again .
19
(19) It is m u ch easier to fit th e
wash er an d screw if you tip th e
m ach in e u p on to its en d.
[2] C - 3
 13.1.2006

2 BOBBIN WINDER - TYPES & FUNCTION 2

Th e bobbin win der is a sep arate Thread Guide

u n it screwed on to th e m ach in e, Pressure Sp rin g loaded, th e
Control th read gu ide m oves
adjacen t to th e balan ce wh eel. Screw from side to side in a
sweep in g m ovem en t.
Its fu n ction is to win d a reserve of
cotton even ly on to an em p ty Rubber Wheel
bobbin an d (in m ost cases) sp rin g Presses on th e in side
release wh en th e bobbin is fu ll. flan ge of th e balan ce
wh eel.

Th e m ost frequ en tly seen typ e Spindle Worm

actu ally p erform s th ree tasks: (1) Stop Latch Revolves with th e
win d in g (2) even ly d istrib u tin g Sp rin g loaded to sp in dle, en gages with
sn ap in to workin g th e gear teeth an d
(or gu idin g) th e th read an d (3) tu rn s th e gear wh eel.
p osition an d qu ick
stop p in g wh en fu ll. release back to rest.
Cam Gear Wheel
Bobbin Control Lever
In order to ach ieve th is m u lti- Cam
Th is p art of th e Stop Latch
taskin g, th e bobbin win der h as p u sh es backwards as th e Attach ed u n dern eath
th ree sets of com p on en ts, sp rin gs bobbin fills u p. (an d revolvin g with )
th e gear wh eel, th e
an d levers doin g differen t jobs Spindle Shaft cam p u sh es again st
bu t all workin g in u n ison . Holds th e bobbin an d m oves th e th read
layin g gu ide.

Th ere are th ree m ain typ es of

bobbin win der. Before you start
to dism an tle on e an d work on it,
you firstly n eed to iden tify wh ich
typ e it is.

An d th en fa m ilia rise you rself

with h ow it works.

TYPE A

2 4

(2) An em p ty bobbin is in serted (a) Th e ru bber wh eel is p ressed

on to th e bobbin sp in dle u n til th e
sm all p in in th e sp in dle sh ou lder
locates in th e h ole in th e bobbin
side p late.
again st th e balan ce wh eel an d...
(b) Th e stop latch com es to rest
between th e side p lates of th e
bobbin an d h olds it in p lace.

(1) With sm all variation s, TYPE A

was in stalled on 66, 99 an d 15K
m odels over a lon g p eriod.

It h as a win der, th read gu ide an d

a release m ech an ism . It is th e on e
m ost frequ en tly seen an d is th e
m ost com p licated.
For th is reason , it is really u sefu l
to h ave an assem b led sp are
exam p le to h an d, so you can refer
to it as you work.
3
(3) Wh en th e sp in dle h ou sin g is
p ressed d own , th e stop la tch
sn ap s forward.
(4) With th is action , two th in gs
h ap p en :
5
(5) As th e h an dle is tu rn ed th e
bobbin fills with cotton , th e stop
latch is forced u pwards u n til it
even tu ally sp rin g releases back
in to its origin al

[2] D - 1

2 BOBBIN WINDER - TYPES & FUNCTION
Wh en th e h an dle is tu rn ed th e
worm on th e sp in dle tu rn s th e
th read gu ide gear wh eel. Th is is
fixed to a cam wh ich p u sh es th e
th read layin g gu ide to on e side.
6 It is a com m on m istake to rem ove
(6) Wh en th e cam is at its m axi-
m u m diam eter th e th read gu ide
lever is p u sh ed to th e righ t
7 h eavily on th e left side - an d vice
(7) Th e gu ide is h eld again st th e
ellip tical cam by a sp rin g, so
wh en th e cam rotates th e gu ide
retu rn s with a sweep in g action ,
d istrib u tin g th e cotton even ly
alon g th e dru m of th e bobbin .
8
(8) On som e bobbin win ders th e
ca m is fixed b eh in d th e gea r
wh eel (as sh own h ere) bu t th e
p rin cip al is th e sam e.
(9) Th e gear wh eel is retain ed by a
cen tral (eccen tric) screw with a
sm all squ are lock n u t at th e back.
th e eccen tric screw a n d gea r
wh eel for clean in g n ot realisin g
th e ad ju stm en t b etween th e
worm an d gear teeth m u st be set
correctly on reassem bly.
TYPE B
10
(10) Typ e B h as a win d er an d
release m ech an ism bu t n o th read
gu ide. It was fitted to 201s an d
later m odels of th e 66, 99 & 15K.
11
(11) Th is m odification disp en sed
with th e com p licated th read lay-
in g device an d in trodu ced a base
p late bracket.
[2] D - 2
13.1.2006
2
In its sim p lest form th e bracket
h as two slots th at th e th read is
taken th rou gh .
12
(12) An oth er variation of th e base
p late th read gu ide h as two sm all -
sp ru n g loaded - ten sion wh eels.
13
(13) Th ese b a se p la te th rea d
gu ides can be m oved to th e righ t
- if th e th e b ob b in win d s too
versa, th en locked in p osition .
Th ere is also often a secon d cot-
ton reel h older on th e base p late
for bobbin win din g.
It is im p ortan t to clean th is area
bu t be carefu l abou t oilin g. Over
oilin g cou ld n egate th e ten sion
by allowin g th e cotton to slip.
TYPE C
14
 13.1.2006

2 BOBBIN WINDER - TYPES & FUNCTION 2

TYPE C
(14) Th is sim p le win der - with ou t
th read gu ide or release - relies on
th e op erator to stop wh en th e
bobbin is fu ll.

It u ses th e sam e brackets on th e

base p late to deliver th e th read to
th e b ob b in . Wh en in u se, th e
op erator p u sh es th e arm down
on to th e balan ce wh eel.

15

(15) Make su re th e screw h oldin g

th e arm is tigh t en ou gh to keep
th e arm on th e balan ce wh eel.

Ap art from oilin g, clean in g an d

ch eckin g th e ru bber rin g, th ere
sh ou ld be n o oth er p roblem s.

Typ e C h as a sp rin g fitted in th e

b ob b in sh a ft wh ich p rovid es
en ou gh resistan ce to keep th e
bobbin in p lace wh ile win din g.

It was fitted to electric m ach in es

an d recen t m odels of th e m an u al
on es.

[2] D - 3
 13.1.2006

2 BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT 2

Th e ru bber wh eel h as to be in Wh at follows is a breakdown of

p erfect con d ition an d m u st b e th e m ost com m on ly fou n d fau lts,
rep laced if it is h ard an d cracked, of Type A an d Type B, togeth er
or sp on gy an d loose on its rim . with su ggestion s of h ow to rem e-
dy th em :

Pin Badly Worn

(1) Undo the single attachm ent

screw and rem ove the Ch an ge th e bobbin win der if
bobbin winder assem bly you h ave an available sp are, oth -
from the m achine. 4 erwise m ake a n ote on th e Netley
refu rbish m en t form .

(4) Clean all the com ponents

and lightly oil all the m oving Worm Gear does not engage
parts. with cam gear, or wont turn.

Th is m ay be all th at is n ecessary.
Rem ove all traces of oil from th e
drive wh eel before rep lacin g (or
ren ewin g) th e ru bber wh eel. Oil
rots ru bber - th erefore d o n ot
over-oil th e m ech an ism .

2 Also, to avoid th e wh eels slip p in g,

(2) Som etim es the bobbin
winder is held on by two
screws which are only visible
when the balance wheel is
rem oved.
If th e bobbin win der ap p ears to
be in good workin g order, it is
better to avoid tak in g it apart.
take a clean dry cloth an d wip e
th e in side flan ge of th e balan ce
wh eel wh ere it com es in to con -
tact with th e ru bber wh eel.
If th ere are n o p roblem s you can
re-attach th e u n it to th e m ach in e
an d m ove on to th e n ext section .
If th e bobbin win der u n it is really
dirty in p laces you cant get to, or
if th e com p on en ts do n ot m ove
sm ooth ly or do n ot p erform th e
fu n ction s p rop erly th en you will
h ave to dism an tle it.

FAULTS & SOLUTIONS

5

3 en t u n til you h ave reassem bled
(3) Rem ove the rubber wheel.
Th is sm all ru bber wh eel on th e
en d of th e bobbin win der sp in dle
is p ressed again st th e b alan ce
wh eel to p ick u p th e m om en tu m
wh en th e h an dle is tu rn ed.
Som e p roblem s with th e bobbin
win der m ay n ot becom e ap p ar-
th e h an d le an d b alan ce wh eel
an d begu n th e sewin g test p roce-
du re.
Lu ckily, th e m ost freq u en tly
fou n d an d com p licated bobbin
win d er u n it Type A, ca n b e
rem oved in dep en den tly.
(5) Loosen the nut at the back of
the eccentric screw.
Tu rn th e screw u n til th e
worm gear en gages with th e cam
gear with ou t bin din g.
Re-tigh ten th e n u t, m ak in g su re
th e screw doesnt m ove, an d re-
ch eck.

[2] D - 4
 13.1.2006

2 BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT 2

Thread guide does not follow

Pu t th e th read gu ide back on top
an d locate th e oth er en d of th e
The rubber wheel is still
the cam . not pressing firm ly enough
sp rin g in th e h ole in th e th read
against the balance wheel.
gu ide.

Th e th read gu ide m u st be tu rn ed
an ticlockwise, p oin tin g well over
to th e left - as it was (see 6) wh en
you dism an tled it.

Wh en you h ave rep laced an d

tigh ten ed th e screw, m ake su re
th e th read gu id e lever m oves
freely with th e ten sion from th e
sp rin g.

Rep lace an d adju st th e cam as 10

already exp lain ed (see 5).
Th e an swer m ay be a m issin g (10) Try loosening the pressure
or d a m a ged sp rin g u n d er th e screw and the pivot screw
screw in th e base of th e gu ide.
The rubber wheel does not
very slightly and levering
turn when pressing on the
the pressure arm upwards
balance wheel.
using a screwdriver

6
8
(6) First undo the cam screw
and rem ove the screw, nut,
(8) Loosen the pressure control
wheel and washer. 11
screw.

The rubber wheel stops

turning before the bobbin
is full.

Th is sh ou ld also be cu red by
gettin g th e correct p ressu re
between th e ru bber wh eel an d
th e balan ce wh eel

(11) With the pressure screw and

7 the pivot screw very slightly
loosened tap gently down-
9
wards on the pressure arm
(7) Now undo the thread guide with a punch or screwdriver.
(9) Re-tighten the screw whilst
screw and rem ove the guide
pressing the rubber wheel
lever and the spring.
firm ly against the balance The bobbin does not turn
Wh en rep lacin g th e sp rin g
wheel.
with the shaft.
you will see th at on e sm all ben t
en d locates in a p in h ole in th e
You m ay n eed to rep eat th is If th e p in on th e sp in d le
u n til you get th e ten sion between sh ou ld er is okay (see p reviou s
lever h ou sin g th e oth er en d of th e
th e two wh eels ju st righ t for easy p age) th e b ob b in m ay n ot b e
sp rin g h as a sh ort tail.
tu rn in g action . en gagin g with it.

[2] D - 5
 13.1.2006

2 BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT 2

Th is p rob ab ly m ean s th e stop

latch is n ot h oldin g th e bobbin
The winder still does not lift
off when the bobbin is full.
close en ou gh to th e righ t en d of
th e sh aft.
It m ay be th at liftin g sp rin g is
m issin g or n ot correctly fitted
an d you will n eed to dism an tle
th e Bracket Assem bly.

16

16 Detach the latch from the

pressure arm .
12
Now rep la ce a n y m issin g,
(12) Using a pair of pliers, bend worn or broken sp rin gs or p arts
the stop latch slightly to the 14 an d reassem ble.
right.
14 Rem ove the pressure screw,
then release the pivot screw
The winder does not lift off
and detach the assem bly
when the bobbin is full.
from the bracket.
Th is cou ld be for on e of two rea-
Th e wh ole assem bly is actu ally
son s:
p ivoted an d sp ru n g at two p oin ts.
Th e m ain on e is th e liftin g sp rin g,
located in a h ou sin g at th e en d of
th e liftin g arm .

17

17 Re-connect the latch and

the pressure arm with no
tension in the spring.

The next p art is tricky - but this

tip w ill m ake it a little easier:
13 As with th e th read gu ide assem -
bly, th is sp rin g also h as th e two
en ds ben t at righ t an gles to locate
in retain in g h oles.
Hop efu lly, it m ay sim p ly be -
th at with years of u se - th e stop
latch h as been ben t backwards
sligh tly an d, if th is is so, it is easi-
ly corrected.

(13) Bend the stop latch slightly

forward.

Wh en an em p ty b ob b in is
slid on th e sh aft an d th e win der
p u sh ed d own in th e en ga ged 18
p osition , th ere sh ou ld on ly be a
very sm all gap between th e stop
latch an d th e bobbin core. 15 18 Place this sub assem bly on
the bracket and - just for
Th is is to m ake su re th e bobbin now - put the pivotal screw
15 Detach latch and pressure
win der will sn ap off before th e through the arm and
arm from the lifting arm .
bobbin is over-wou n d. tighten.

[2] D - 6
 13.1.2006

2 BOBBIN WINDER REFURBISHMENT 2

As th e com p lete u n it is reassem - Th e sp rin g can (If youre lu cky)

bled th e lon g tail of th e sp rin g is b e p ersu ad ed to fit in sid e th e
p u sh ed rou n d to create th e p res- recess com p letely, m akin g th e
su re to release th e win der wh en rest of th e assem bly easier.
th e bobbin is fu lly wou n d.

19

(19) Put the pressure screw

through the slot in the arm
and screw tightly hom e into
the bracket.

22

Heres a rem in der of th e assem -

bled u n it (back view) to see th e
u ltim ate p osition of th e sp rin g
tail restin g again st th e ben d in
th e p ressu re arm .

At th is stage th e sp rin g tail

20
(20) Now, with the assem bly held
firm ly in place, rem ove the
pivotal screw.
com es to rest again st th e sh ou l-
der of th e cu taway in th e side of
th e deep recess.
Som etim es th e sp rin g does n ot
stay in th e recess an d p reven ts
th e screw tigh ten in g p rop erly,
bu t with p atien ce an d p ractice
th e wh ole assem bly will rotate
rou n d th e p ivotal screw again .
(22) Hold the two halves of the
fram e assem bly together
(against the pressure) and
push the pivotal screw back
through the fram e and screw
into the bracket again.

The thread does not lay

evenly on the bobbin.

21

(21) Pick up fram e assem bly and

place spring into the deep
recess - again locating the
end of the spring in the hole.
First ch eck th at th e bobbin sh aft
is tu rn in g th e cam an d th at th e 23
th read gu ide is followin g th e cam
sm ooth ly.
(23) Using a pair of pliers,
If th ese are workin g p rop erly, carefully bend the thread
it cou ld be th at th e th read gu ide guide so that it is centred
h as been ben t so th at it does n ot between the cheeks of the
traverse th e fu ll width . bobbin.

[2] D - 7
 16.3.2006

2 REFURBI SHMENT - TOP OF MACHI NE 2

Spool Pin

The hole (A) to the left of the cotton reel

spindle should be oiled when the thread
take up arm is at its lowest point.
99

(1) Make sure the cotton reel

A
holder (or spool pin) is in
the cor rect hole and tight .

With the earlier machines one The hole (A) to the left of the cotton reel
end of the spool pin is slightly spindle should be oiled when the thread
tapered and push-fits into the take up arm is at its lowest point. 66
retaining hole.

They sometimes become loose

but a few taps with a light
ham m er generally solves the A
problem. If the pin is still loose,
roughen up the tapered end with
a file to make it stay tight.

The hole (A) nearest the bobbin winder should be oiled

when the needle is at its lowest. (You can see the felt 15k
pad at the top of the connecting rod below the hole).

2
A

(2) On the later 201s, like the one
above, the pin is threaded at one
end and has a screwdriver slot at
the other.
The hole (A) immediately to the right of
the cotton reel spindle should be oiled
when the needle is at its highest point.
201

Oiling (Top of Machine)

An elderly sewing machine that
has not been properly refur-
bished and lubricated will run
hard.
A
In a hot dry climate, considerable
energy will be wasted using a The hole (A) immediately to the right of
machine that doesnt turn easily -
besides shortening its future life
the cotton reel spindle should be oiled 201
when the needle is at its highest point.
and usefulness.

[2] E - 1

2 REFURBI SHMENT - TOP OF MACHI NE
Like all other machinery a sewing
machine will not give satisfaction
if its working parts have become
gummed or dry.
Oiling holes are provided above
otherwise inaccessible m oving
parts where there are bearings
and friction. All moving parts in
contact must be covered with a
film of oil and not allowed to
become dry.
You should always use good
quality sewing m achine oil.
Thicker, inferior oil will clog the
bearings, prevent efficient
working and cause rapid wear of
the mechanism.
3 allowed the more accurate and
(3) Fir st m ake sure all the oiling
holes in the top of the
m achine are clean and not
gum m ed up.
A drop of oil injected properly
into each oiling hole is sufficient -
do not over oil.
It is m ost im por tant that each
m achine should be turned
according to the instructions on
the previous page - when oil is
applied at point A. This allows
the oil to drop directly on the
m ainshaft crank below which
might otherwise be missed.
4 show overleaf...
(4) When oiling, inser t the oil
can spout well into the oil
holes.
After oiling run the m achine
rapidly for a few moments and
then wipe the top arm over with a
clean cloth.
Stitch length setting
The length of the stitch, and its
easy regulation, is a crucial part
of successful sewing.
Fine m aterial requires a fine
needle & thread and a short
stitch. Heavy material requires
the opposite. About 18 stitches to
the inch makes a suitable seam
for ordinary sewing.
The visible part of stitch setting is
the stitch control knob or lever
on the front of the machine.
There is also the m echanism
inside. These two elements are
dealt with here - first the control,
then the mechanism model by
model.
15k
5
(5) Check that the knob is free
to tur n and can easily be
m oved up and down.
To alter the stitch length on the
15K m achine, first loosen the
screw then m ove upwards to
increase or downwards to
decrease; except on the 15K26
model when it operates in the
opposite way.
When the required stitch length
has been obtained, it can be set
by tightening the knob.
[2] E - 2
16.3.2006
2
66
6
(6) Unscrew the knob as far as it
will go, clean the knob and
the thread. Put a couple of
dr ops of oil on the thread
and screw it up again.
The 66 and early 99 models use a
screw to control the stitch. Fully
screwed in for the longest stitch,
unscrewing the knob produces
shorter stitches until the fabric
remains stationary.
The ability to reverse stitch was
introduced on later 99s and gave
rise to the following two types of
control levers (7 & 8). This
faster setting of stitch length.
7 99
(7) At first this consisted of a
sim ple lever and a scale in
stitches per inch.
If the lever is moved above the
horizontal line, the machine will
Back Tack or stitch backwards.
This is used to seal the end of
seams so that they cannot loosen
(not for long runs).
This in turn was modified as we

2 REFURBI SHMENT - TOP OF MACHI NE
99
Red dot
8 12
(8) The scale is now on the left,
and the red dot in the slot
indicates the setting from 6 to 30
stitches per inch. Check that the
lever moves freely from top to
bottom of the slot.
To regulate the length of the
stitch, first turn the thumb nut on
the lever anticlockwise away
from the stitch indicator plate as
far as necessary.
Then move the lever up or down
until the red dot is at the desired
stitch setting.
Now turn the thumbnut inward
until it touches the indicator
plate (do not over-tighten as this
can cause the setting to change).
The machine is now set to stitch
the desired number of stitches
per inch in a forward direction.
For Back Tacking, raise the lever
to the upper end of the indicator
plate. The m achine will now
stitch in a reverse direction,
making it easy to fasten the ends
of the seams.
99
9 Check that the lever moves freely
(9) If the indicator plates or levers
need cleaning, they can be
rem oved by undoing the two
retaining screws.
16.3.2006
2
In the case of the simple lever (7),
the indicator plate can be
rem oved by turning it by 900
when it will slide past the lever.
In the second case (8), there is a Thumb
screw
screw inside the knob. Un- hole
screwing this will rem ove the .
knob.
201
(12) This picture shows the
com ponents of the 201 stitch
length setting control.
10
(10) The 201 introduced a further
variation. A lever with the stitch
length being set by loosening the
thum bscrew at the left and
sliding it in the curved slot.
11
(11) The plate under the indicator
scale revolves with it, blocking off
the lower part and the upper part
of the lever slot as it is lifted.
Tightening the thumbscrew then
locks the stitch at that maximum
length, while again allowing back
stitching to be done at a flick of
the lever.
from top to bottom of the slot. If
the indicator plates or levers
need cleaning, they can be
rem oved by undoing the two
retaining screws.
[2] E - 3

2 REFURBI SHMENT - TOP OF MACHI NE
Stitch Length Mechanism
13
(13) In all m odels, the stitch
length control levers or screws
connect with a mechanism in the
base of the machine.
There is very little difference
between models in this area, so
the 66 is used as an example.
All the internal components of
the stitch length control are
shown in the above mockup.
Stitch Contr ol Par ts:
A: Locating screw and thrust
washer - located under balance
wheel.
B: Slide. Rotates on A, under the
control of C, the Stitch length
knob. Note the pin on the slide
engaging with the groove on C.
C: Stitch Length Screw or lever
on other models.
D: Roller which fits into the slide.
E: Connecting rod. The yoke at
the top fits into a crank which
waggles the rod. The roller
provides a fulcrum. The bottom
end is fixed to the feed dog arm as
shown in the inset.
As the stitch control screw or
lever is moved, the slide turns,
changing the fulcrum point and
varying the m ovem ent at the
base of the rod.
As the whole of this mechanism
is enclosed in the machine, it
normally needs little cleaning.
14
(14) This shows the locating
screw and washer under the
balance wheel. Check that
the washer is intact .
The washer has three projecting
lugs. These, with its shape,
provide som e friction which
prevents the stitch length
wandering from its setting,
particularly with the lever types.
15
(15) The best view of the m echa-
nism is obtained fr om the
back of the m achine.
Loosen the screw on the
cover plate to m ake it
visible.
(16) Put a dr op of oil on the slide
and the locating screw.
[2] E - 4
16.3.2006
2
66
16
Model differences
15k
17
(17) On the 15K there is an arm
projecting into the machine at
the bottom of the back opening.
The stitch length mechanism is
attached to this, instead of the
side of the machine.
201
18
(18) On some 201s only (the later
ones with the brown colouring)
there is an oiling hole inside the
back inspection cover just below
the gear wheel.
Give it a drop of oil and turn the
balance wheel a few tim es to
lubricate.
Note: 99 Models do not have a
back opening. Oiling must be
done from the opening under the
balance wheel.

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels)
The principals of thread tension
have already been covered in the
section on How a Sewing
Machine Works page [1] E - 4.
1 tension discs (D & E). These
(1) The m ajority of tension
adjustm ents for changes in
thread and fabric thickness or
stitch length are made through
the upper tension mechanism.
Bobbin
thread
tension
screw 2 page [1] E - 4.
(2) Once set, the lower bobbin
tension should not need to be
altered for normal operations.
How you set the tension correctly
is som ething we discuss in
section [2] J when we look at
performing a sewing test. Here
we deal with refurbishment only.
There are basically only two types
of tension mechanisms. However,
because they have constantly
improved over the 100 years or
so, there are now variations for
each model.
We start this section by explain-
ing these two types, and then
cover the work involved - model
by model starting with the 66/ 99.
For the 15K turn to page [2] F - 8
and for the 201 see page [2] F - 10
2.3.2006
2
Early Type (66 & 99)
(A)
To avoid snapping the thread
as it is pulled tight at the end of
the stitch formation ( see page
[1] E - 2) it is passed through
the thread take up spring (A) (B)
which takes-up' or cushions
the strain.
The tension stud (B) has a hole
drilled through it endwise, so (C)
the tension release pin (C), can
slide within it.
The thread passes between the
(D)
discs are pressed together by
the tension release disc (F) as
pressure is exerted on it by the
beehive shaped spring (G).
(E)
The am ount of pressure is
regulated by turning the
knurled thumbnut (H).
When the presser bar lever is (F)
lifted, the release pin is made
to slide through the stud until
the end of the pin presses
against the cross-piece bar in (G)
the centre of the washer (F).
This relieves the pressure on
the spring. See the diagram on (H)
Later Dial Type (66 & 99)
(C) (B) (A) (D) (E) (F) (G) [I ] [ J] (H)
The tension release disc (F) has
changed in shape. It now houses the
spring (G) and has a guide on top as
a visual aid to tension setting.
Two new components have been added;
a stop washer [I] and a dial [ J].
The stop washer has a protruding tail which makes
contact with a ridge inside the dial preventing it from
making more than one revolution - so the thumbnut (H)
cannot be screwed off the stud or tightened excessively.
The thumbnut (H) now has a pin on the back face which
fits into one of the holes in a circular pattern on the
tension dial (J). This means that the dial revolves with
the thumbnut as it is screwed in or out.
[2] F - 1
 2.3.2006

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels) 2

(9) Fir st screw the thum bnut

Early Type (66 & 99) back on the stud a few tur ns
and then use a screwdr iver
to undo the stud and rem ove
the stud and spr ing.

(6) Use plier s on the end of the

ar m s (j ust before the thread
star ts) to gently bend them
3 back to a par allel position.

(3) This picture shows the take up 10

spring and tension stud which is
used with the 66/ 99 sim ple (10) At this stage, check that the
tension mechanism. recessed shoulder s of the
tension m echanism housing
are in the clock hands
position equivalent to
ar ound 25 m inutes to 11.

7 Adjust if required - by first

releasing the grub screw under
(7) ...or, lever gentl y with a the arm and then rotating the
screwdr iver if the ar m s have tension mechanism housing to
been pinched together. the required position.

(4) Rem ove thum bnut and take

off the com ponents down to
the tension discs.
11

8 (11) On the early 66 and 99

models the end of the take-up
spring is held tight between the
(8) Check the condition of the shoulder of the tension stud and
take up spr ing. the m echanism housing when
the stud is screwed fully home.
This delicate part is easily damaged
- if it has little resistance, or is
broken or bent, then it must be
replaced.
5

(5) Clean or replace the discs if

they are r usty or gr ooved.

Next check the condition of the

stud. Sometimes the two pronged
arms have been splayed by careless
use of a screwdriver which makes
the thumbnut difficult to turn.
(12) Fit the new spr ing on the
tension stud. Hold the spr ing
9 at about 2 oclock while you
screw the tension stud tight .

[2] F - 2

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels)
13
(13) When the stud is tight, m ake
sure the tension spr ing is
still at 2 0clock, then gently
push it anticlockwise until
it drops into the slot .
14
(14) Here the housing and the
spring are seen in the correct rest
position prior to sewing.
15
(15)Deflect the spr ing and check
that it retur ns to the cor rect
position.
When the machine is being used
the spring will be deflected to
about 9 oclock.
When you come to reassembly,
rem em ber to locate the pin
inside the stud.
Next refit the two discs facing
each other thus: )( , the domed
pressure plate dome towards you
- and lastly the conical spring and
thumbnut.
Screw in the thumbnut for a few
turns and leave further adjust-
ment until test time.
16
(16) The 66/ 99 tension pins have
nothing to hold them in place
and often get lost. A suitable
replacement can be cut from a
long panel pin, or the tail of a pop
rivet. It should be exactly 1 long.
17
(17)When the reassem bly is
complete check that when you
lift the presser foot release arm
the tension is released allowing
the thread to pull through easily
between the dished plates.
End of tension
release pin
18
[2] F - 3
2.3.2006
2
(18) If the tension does not
release, rem ove the face
plate and check inside.
End of tension
release pin
Return
19 spring
(19) M ake sure that when the
presser foot lever is raised, the
tension release lever at the back
of the face cavity moves across to
push the tension release pin.
Picture (18) shows the early type
of release lever m echanism
which is partly obscured by the
presser bar and the needle bar.
Type A: Early model with pin location
20
(20) In these early models, the
release lever fits into a slot in the
bottom of the face cavity, held in
with a pin. This slot clogs with old
oil that has drained into it.
Type B: Later model with shouldered
screw fixing.
21
(21) The later type of release lever
is held in place with a shouldered
screw - so that the screw can be
tightened while allowing free
movement to the lever.

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels)
In both cases the lever m ust
move freely and easily. If it does
not, then work through the
following sequence:
Rem edial Action:
Type A
If you are working on an early
model and the tension release
lever is stiff or unm oveable,
squirt in some penetrating oil,
leave and try again later .
If still in trouble, you might like to
note it for Netley Marsh to deal
with. The lever can be removed
but it is difficult for the following
reasons:
The pin is difficult to remove.
You will probably have to
rem ove the presser bar and
needle bar to clean out the slot.
Then you will need to re-adjust
the needle bar height.
Rem edial Action:
Type B
On the later model, if the lever
doesn't move freely and easily,
make sure the shoulder part of
the screw is sitting correctly in
the recessed rim of the hole in
the lever.
Rem edial Action:
Both types
If the lever moves freely and easily
with a screwdriver, but does not
move the pin, check the following:
The screw fastening the
presser foot release lever is tight.
For Type B, the shouldered
pivotal screw holding the
tension release lever is tight.
The tension release lever
moves when pushed with a
screwdriver.
If the lever is moving OK, but it is
not contacting the pin:
Check that the barrel holding
the tension assembly is fitting
correctly in the machine.
2.3.2006
2
(24) A sim ple adjustm ent tool
Grubscrew
locates in groove can be made to tackle this task in
situ by cutting a 3/ 32nd of an
inch wide slot, 1/ 8th of an inch
deep in a piece of 5/ 16th steel
rod.
If this is not an option for you,
then it m eans clearing the
This much
presser bar and needle bar out of
protudes from the way to remove the lever - or
the side of the leaving it for Netley to correct.
22 machine
If it the tension lever needs to be
bent towards or away from the
(22) The grub screw should locate pin, do not be tempted to use a
in the circular groove in the screwdriver pressing against the
barrel. The end of the barrel needle bar for leverage.
protrudes about 3/ 32" or 2.5 mm
from the side of the machine. In all cases you must make sure
that when the presser bar lifter is
If this is OK, it is probable that down, the tension release lever
the release lever has becom e does not continue to press on the
bent. pin, as this will stop tension.
Type A
Type B
23
(23) Carefully bend the lever a
little so that it can m ake
contact with the pin at the
point indicated.
This is relatively easy with type
(B) as it has a horizontal bar
which makes contact with the
pin, and the lever can be
unscrewed and wriggled out of
the machine for attention.
With type (A) check that the lever
contacts squarely with the pin. It
may be that bending it slightly
away from you or towards you
will do the trick.
24
[2] F - 4

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels)
Dial Type (66 & 99)
The tension stud and spring are
changed from the early type.
1 (D) Check that , with the presser
The springs internal
tail slides over one of
the splines on the stud
(1) The end of the take up spring
fits into the splines on the
tension stud. The stud is a push
fit into the barrel, held by a screw.
To refurbish the Dial Type
tension m echanism work your
way through steps A to D in the
following Flow Chart. If you
encounter a problem follow the
relevant num bered sym bol to
find the solution.
No problem Problem
work down through move on to:
A 1
Check tension release
B 2
Check take up spring
C 2
Check cleanliness
D - or pif the tension mechanism is
Check thumbnut 3
movement
(A) Raise the presser foot release
lever and check that the tension
is released.
(B) Check that the take up spr ing
i s i n good con di t i on . Pul l i t
gen t l y for war d. The spr i n g
should com e r ound to appr ox-
im ately 1 0clock. Retur n it to its
position.
2.3.2006
2
(C) Because the tension spr ing is (3) Tur n the thumbnut anti-
enclosed, the unit can usually be clockwise until it stops then
cleaned with a soft br ush, and press in the dial to disengage
passi n g a cl ot h bet ween t he the pin in the back of the
tension discs. I f ver y dir ty, take thum bnut fr om the dial.
apar t as descr ibed in [2].
foot lever down, when the thumb-
nut is tur ned the tension can be
tur ned up to 10 and down to 0.
4
(4)Undo the thum bnut and
rem ove all the com ponents
down to the tension discs
2
(2) The thumbnut should stop
turning at position 0, as shown
above.
Rem edial Measures
5
1
(5) Now slide out the take up
spr ing, tur n it to 1 oclock,
If you have a problem with the and replace it .
tension releasing make the same
checks as described for the
simple type on pages [2] F - 3 & 4
Disassem ble
2
If you have a problem with the 6
positioning of the tension spring
(6)Latch the take up spr ing at
very dirty - you will need to 11 oclock again.
disassemble the unit as follows:
7
(7) Test that there is now som e
resistance to m oving it to 9
3 oclock.
[2] F - 5

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels)
If there is a problem, the splines
on the tension stud have
probably come loose from the
stud. If this is the case, there is no
alternative except to change the
tension stud.
Rebuild and Reset
If the spring is okay - or you have
had to disassemble in order to
reset the dial - you can begin to
replace the com ponents as
follows:
The presser foot rel ease l ever
should be down before you start
these rebuilding steps:
8
(8) The tension stud should be
positioned in the barrel so that
the slot between the prongs is
horizontal. (This allows the dial
setting to be at the top)
(9) If the stud is not positioned
hor izontally, undo the retain-
ing screw located inside the
head.
10
(10) Replace the thum bnut a few
tur ns; use a screwdr iver
to reposition the tension
stud and retighten the
retaining screw
11
(11) Slide the take up spr ing over
the tension stud at about 1
oclock, latch into the correct
position at 11 oclock - as
shown on previous page.
12
(12) Replace the tension discs
with the dom ed sides
together )(. Replace the
tension release washer, with
the flat side towards the
m achine, and the dial
setting m ark at the top.
[2] F - 6
2.3.2006
2
13
(13) Now fit the tension spr ing
and stop washer as shown..
14
(14) Place the num bered dial on
the stud, with the num ber 2
upper m ost .
15
(15) Push the dial towards the
m achine to com press the
spr ing. Screw on the thum b
-nut and carefully guide the
pin on the back of the
thum bnut into one of the
holes on the dial.
Turn the thumbnut anticlockwise.
The dial should stop at 0. If not,
turn it back to 2, press the dial
again and screw the thumbnut in
further, guiding the pin in to a
hole further round the dial.
Repeat until the dial stops on 0.
 2.3.2006

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (66 & 99 m odels) 2

At this point there should just be

zero tension on the thread. Adjust
this by pressing in the dial
(without turning it) and turn the
thumbnut (clockwise to increase
the pressure or anticlockwise to
decrease) locating the pin in the
hole adjacent to the one it was
previously in. Repeat this until
you have it right.

Check that the dial will now

revolve through a com plete
clockwise turn, stopping on 9.
Turn the dial to 5, ready to test
the stitching later.

Finally, test that the tension

releases when the presser release
lever is raised. If not, the
corrective procedure is the same
as for the simpler type covered
earlier.

[2] F - 7
 2.3.2006

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (15K m odel) 2

(7) Slide the take up spr ing over

15K the tension stud, m aking
sure the tail of the spr ing is
located in the gr oove in the
stud.

(4) The tension release pin is

flattened at the end that presses
1 against the pressure release disc.

(1) The components of the 15K 8

m odel tension m echanism are
assem bled partly within their
own housing located on the front (8) Push the tension stud into
of the face plate. the sleeve m aking sure it is fully
hom e. Tur n the stud until the
take up spr ing is at 5 0clock.

5
(5) The remaining components
are the same as the basic 66/ 99.

(2) The sleeve (seen here 9

rem oved from the housing) is
adjustable so that the sweep of (9) I n ser t an d t i ght en t he
the take up spring can be locating screw which holds it in
regulated. 6 place.

(6) To re-assem ble, place the

sleeve back in the housing,
with the cutout end facing
towards you, and r otated
towards the m iddle of the
face plate.

3 10
(3) The end of the take-up spring
fits into a groove on the spline of (10) Push the take up spr ing
the tension stud. r ound anti clockwise until it
dr ops into the cutout in the
The locating end of the shaft is sleeve
smooth and not threaded like the
66. It push fits into the hole in 7
the base of the housing.

[2] F - 8

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (15K m odel)
11
(11) Now r otate the sleeve anti
clockwise until the take up
spr ing ar m is hor izontal.
Inser t and tighten the
housing screw.
12
(12) re-assem ble the other
com ponents as covered
earlier in the sim ple 66/99
section.
13
(13) Make sure, when the
m echanism is reassem bled,
the r ounded end of the
pressure release pin
pr otr udes slightly thr ough
the back of the casing.
2.3.2006
2
16
14
(14) When the faceplate is re-
attached the end of the tension (16) Undo the gr ub screw holding
pin is pushed backwards (by the the secur ing pin in place and
pressure of the tension spring) make sure the presser release
into the indent in the presser lever is held fir m ly in place.
lever arm.
17
15
(17) Using a punch, gently tap the
(15) When the arm is raised the end of the release pin until
pin is pushed forwards out of the the lever is held fir m ly. I f too
indent and pushes back on the tight , tap the other end of
tension release plate which the pin. Finally retighten
releases the pressure between the the gr ub screw.
two tension discs.
Rem edial Measures
If the tension does not release,
check that the face plate is fitting
close up to the face, with no
debris inside it and that it has
been fastened securely.
2
If the release lever wobbles about
- read on...
[2] F - 9

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (201)
A Tension pin with flat end
B Tension stud
C Take up spring 201 type
(1) The parts shown above
comprise yet another variation
on the dial-up tension mecha-
nism which was introduced with
the early 201s.
The tension spring is enclosed in
a housing, so that as the
thumbnut is tightened, the two
halves of the housing telescope.
This allows for a simple bar and
scale m easure of the tension
applied to be incorporated -
which can be seen in the picture.
1
(1) Clean the unit with a soft
br ush and between the
tension discs with a cloth.
201 (early ver sion)
D Tension washers
E Positioning plate joined to
rear tension housing
F Tension release washer
2 4
(2) Check the take up spr ing is
in good condition and
spr ings back to its position
when deflected.
3
(3) I f the spr ing needs m ore - or
less - tension, undo the
fastening screw inside the
head and tur n the tension
stud with a screwdr iver.
[2] F - 10
2.3..2006
2
G Tension spring
H Front tension spring housing
I Thumbnut
(4) I f the spr ing needs changing
or the unit is ver y dir ty, undo
the tension stud fastening
screw, rem ove the unit and
take it apar t .
5
(5) To re-assem ble this type of
early ver sion fir st place the
rear tension housing (E)
face down on the bench,
with the locating ar m in the
air.

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (201)
This is actually two parts, the rear
tension housing and the posi-
tioning plate.
6
(6) Put the tension release
washer (F) into the rear
tension housing, dom ed
side down.
7 13
(7) Now place the two tension
washer s (D) on top and slide
the end of the tension
release spr ing between the
par ts of the rear tension
housing in the area of the
ar r ow in picture (6).
8 guide tail in the sm all hole
2.3..2006
2
(8) Holding the tension release
pin in the tension stud with a
sm all screwdr iver, place the
tension stud into the
assem bly.
You may need to rotate it to pass
the tension release washer but
the worst is over.
12
(12) Make sure the take up
spr ing is within the cutout
and check that it spr ings
back to this position when
deflected.
9
(9) Pick the unit up holding it by
the tension housing. Reverse
it while you add the tension
spr ing and the fr ont tension
housing
(13) If it needs m ore - or less -
tension, tur n the tension
stud with a screwdr iver, then
tighten the holding screw
inside the face.
10
(10) Tilt this so you can get the
tension m arker bar into the
slot in the rear tension
housing. Screw on the
thum bnut and the unit is
com plete.
11
(11) Inser t the unit into the
m achine ar m , locating the
above the housing recess.
[2] F - 11

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (201)
201 Moder n Types
1 (3) Now rem ove the thum b nut
(1) If the unit looks in good
condition, clean the components
with a soft brush to remove fluff
and surface dirt. Then, with the
tension released, clean between
the tension disks with a soft
cloth.
Check that the take up spring is
in good condition. The spring on
a type 201 di ffers from all the
other machines because it pulls in
the opposite direction.
With tension off, lift the spring
off its rest. It should slip round
anticlockwise to roughly 6
oclock. If not the mechanism
will have to be disassembled.
2
(2) To disassem ble, tur n the
thum b nut anti-clockwise
until the num er al 0 on the
num bered dial stops
opposite the centre lines
between plus and m inus.
Next, press in the dial to
disengage the pin in the back the
thumb nut from the dial.
3
and dial, stop washer,
tension spr ing and
indicator disc.
A B
4
(4) It is not necessary to remove
the stud from the machine arm
(as seen here) to disassemble the
thread tension - but it does help
to show it for the purpose of
illustration.
However, check that the stud is
set with the slot horizontal so
that the pointer for the stitch
setting can be at the top of the
machine.
You can see that the 201 has two
differentiating features compared
with the other models:
A: The addition of a thread guard
plate with a tail at the top which
locates into a hole in the machine
arm.
B: The opposing end of the spring
has a circular loop which hooks
over the front end of the stud.
In order to have the necessary
pretension, the take up spring
has to be guided on to the stud
with its loop in a vertical position .
[2] F - 12
2.3..2006
2
To start reassembly, first make
sure the tension release pin is in
place in the stud.
Spring
tail
Tension
plates
Circular
loop
Thread
5 guard tail
(5) Place the two tension plates
with their flat thread-
bear ing sides together then
pass the circular loop of the
spr ing under the thread
guard with the coils of the
spr ing above.
6
(6) Guide the tension disc
assem bly on to the stud so
that the extension of the
thread guard enter s the
hole in the m achine ar m .
7
(7) Replace the indicator with
the lar ge open side facing
the end of the stud so that
the plus and m inus m arks
will be at the top (with the
m inus sign at the left).

2 UPPER TENSI ON MECHANI SM - (201)
8 5, ready to test the stitching later.
(8) Inser t the rem aining par ts.
Hold the parts thus assembled
against the shoulder of the stud
then inset the tension spring in
the indicator with the first (half )
coil of the spring straddling the
lower half of the stud.
Then guide the stop washer on to
the stud so that the little hooked
beak is at the top.
9 12
(9) If the spring and stop washer
are in the correct position, the
little hook will clear the first
(half ) coil of the tension spring.
10
(10) I f you look inside the
num bered indicator dial
you will see a sm all r idge
directly below num er al 0.
This ridge is for the stop washer
hook to engage against which
prevents the whole mechanism
from com ing unscrewed when
the thumb nut is undone to its
full extent.
11
(11) Next place the num bered
dial on the stud so that
num er al 2 is opposite the
stop washer hook.
(12) Now push the dial to
com press the spr ing so that
the thum b nut can be
tur ned on to the stud.
Carefully guide the pin on the
thumb nut into one of the holes
of the numbered dial.
Turn the thumbnut anticlockwise.
The dial should stop at 0. If not,
turn it back to 2, press the dial
again and screw the thumbnut in
further, guiding the pin in to a
hole further round the dial.
Repeat until the dial stops on 0.
At this point there should just be
zero tension on the thread. Adjust
this by pressing in the dial
(without turning it) and turn the
thumbnut clockwise (to increase
the pressure and anticlockwise to
decreas it) locating the pin in the
[2] F - 13
2.3..2006
2
hole adjacent to the one it was
previously in. Repeat this until
you have it right.
Check that the dial turns together
with the thumb nut through a
com plete revolution clockwise
stopping on 9, providing a full
range of tensions from light to
heavy. Then turn the dial back to
Finally, test that the tension
releases when the presser release
lever is raised. If not, the
corrective procedure is the same
as for the simpler type covered
earlier.
The take up spring should be
resting horizontally, to fine tune
it an adjustment plate is provided
which regulates the distance the
end of the spring travels as it
makes its arc.
Spring rest
projection
arm
Adjustment
screw
13
(13) Loosen adjustm ent screw
and reposition the take-up
spr ing adjustm ent plate if
required to r aise or lower
the pr ojection ar m on
which the spr ing rests.

2 THE HEAD
Particularly bad areas for an
accumulation of gummed oil and
fluff are inside the Lower Bobbin
housing and inside the Head. The
Head is often worse because it is
less frequently opened and seen.
(1) Fir st loosen the head screw
(if there is one), then
unscrew the thum b screw
and lift off the face plate.
2 (7) To adjust the needle, fir st
(2) Thor oughly clean inside the
head cavity.
Presser Bar
Regulating
Thum b Screw
(3) Make sure the thread of the
Pressure Bar Regulating
Thum b Screw is oiled and
the screw is easy to tur n.
On the 15K, 66 & 201 you will see
that the the regulating thum b
screw is hollow or sealed with a
fibre plug. You should apply a
couple of drops of oil either into
the hole or onto the plug.
Presser Needle
Bar Bar
4
(4) Oil all the m oving par ts as
indicated by the black
ar r ows.
As you can see from the
illustration, most of the moving
parts are associated with the
levers that convert the rotating
movement of the drive shaft into
the up and down movement of
the needle bar.
On top of some of these small
hinge bearings you will see an
oiling hole. Put a drop of oil in
[2] G - 1
2.3.2006
2
each of these and also on all
other m oving joints. Do not
overoil, as the surplus oil can run
down the needle bar, spoiling the
workpiece.
Presser
Bar
Spr ing
Br acket
Screw
Cover
plate
hole
5
(5) When lowered, m ake sure
the slot in the foot does not
foul the cover plate hole.
A swivel adjustm ent of the
presser bar and presser foot can
be achieved by loosening the
spring bracket screw.
(6) Make sure the needle is
centred over the cover
plate hole.
If there is a problem it could be
due to a bent needle, or the
needle not locating properly in
the needle clamp. Always fit a
new needle.
7
r aise the needle bar to its
highest point by tur ning the
balance wheel towards you.

2 THE HEAD
Now release the clamp screw very
slightly and check that the needle
is squarely secure and pushed
fully up in the clamp before re-
tightening.
If the needle still fouls the hole
try a new needle and if the
problem persists you will have to
examine the clamp itself which
we explain shortly.
At this stage, if everything
connected with the Head is clean
and working properly - and you
have successfully ticked all five
items on your check list you are
ready to move on to the next
section dealing with the Lower
Bobbin Area.
If you have any rem aining
problems read on:
When the face plate is removed
four areas of the sewing machine
are revealed inside the Head:
1. TENSION RELEASE.
2. NEEDLE HEI GHT
& TI MI NG ADJUSTMENT.
3. PRESSER BAR ACTI ON.
4. NEEDLE BAR ACTI ON.
1. TENSION RELEASE:
We have already discussed the
Upper Thread Tension Release in
the previous section.
2. NEEDLE HEI GHT
& TI MI NG ADJUSTMENT:
The needle height can be
adjusted although seldom
required. M ost m achines also
include timing marks to adjust
the overall timing of the machine.
However, as these features will
seldom be needed, they are left
until the Fault Finding section.
3. PRESSER BAR ACTI ON.
(8) The presser bar is an adjustable
spring loaded component central
to the fabric control function of
the machine.
2.3.2006
2
Too l i ttl e pressure on the presser
foot (especially when sewing
Presser Bar thick or compact material) can
Regulating
Thum b Screw result in shorter stitches than set
as the feed dog fails to grip the
fabric firmly.
Presser Bar
Also, with too little pressure, the
Spr ing the presser foot may not hold the
fabric properly and it will pucker.
Too much pressure will impose a
drag when operating the machine
Presser Bar and induce wear on the teeth of
Spr ing
Br acket the feed dog.
To insert, rem ove or adjust
material from under the presser
Presser Bar foot the bar has to be raised using
Br acket the presser bar lifter lever.
Screw
Thread
Cutter
Presser Foot
attaches here
Thum b
nut
8
Presser
9 Bar
Presser
Lifter
Bar
10
Presser
Foot (10) Feel the difference in the
Thr oat pressure on the lifter ar m
Plate (fabr ic) with the thum b nut screwed
fully in and then fully out .
If there is little noticeable
difference in pressure, it may be
Feed Dog that the spring needs replacing.
(9) The presser foot, attached to
the end of the presser bar, presses
down on the fabric holding it in
contact with the feed dog. This
enables the feed dog to grip and
pull the material forward for the
next stitch.
The pressure applied by the
presser foot is adjusted by the
presser regulating thumb screw
at the top of the presser bar.
11
This knurled control is turned
clockwise to increase the amount
of compression on the presser (11) With the 15K, 66 and 201
bar spring and anticlockwise to models the spring can be seen on
reduce it. the outside of the Presser Bar.
[2] G - 2

2 THE HEAD
12
(12) To replace the spr ing, undo
the thum b nut com pletely
and slide out the old spr ing.
13
(13) With the 99 model, the top of
the spring is attached to a rod
and then encased inside a tube.
It is removed in the same way by
undoing the thum b nut com -
pletely. If you do not have a spare
spring please highlight the
compression problem on your
check list and we will remedy it at
Netley.
Setting the Presser Bar Lifter :
It is important that there should
be a small amount of free play in
the action of the presser bar Lifter
when the presser foot is down.
This free play makes it certain
that the downward spring pres-
sure is on the material beneath
the presser foot instead of on the
top of the presser bar lifter.
If the bar and foot start to lift
straight away when the lever is
raised you need to work through
the following adjustment proce-
dure: - first making sure the teeth
of the Feed Dog are below the
surface of the Needle Plate:
14
(14) Loosen the Presser Bar
Br acket Screw.
15
(15) With the presser bar release
lever down, lift the presser
foot slightly by hand and
inser t the blade of a sm all
screwdr iver between the
presser foot release lever
and the presser bar br acket .
Let the presser foot down again,
check the presser foot is clear of
the needle hole and tighten the
presser bar bracket screw.
Check that there is the required
small movement of the presser
bar release lever before contact-
ing the presser bar bracket.
[2] G - 3
2.3.2006
2
Before tightening the presser bar
bracket screw, make sure that the
presser foot is not fouling the
needle hole. If necessary, rotate
the foot until it is clear.
16
(16) The metal clip attached to
the end of the presser bar above
the foot is a simple Thread Cutter.
It is occasionally necessary to
rem ove the presser foot to
thoroughly clean the end of the
presser bar and the foot itself.
17
(17) Raise the Presser Bar and
the Needle Bar, loosen the
knurled thum b screw and
rem ove the Presser Foot
18
(18) The standard foot has been
designed for easy detachm ent
from the end of the presser bar
because it is interchangeable
with other styles like the Hemmer
Foot shown above.
There is also a range of acces-
sories designed for specific tasks.
These are attached to the end of
the presser bar in place of the
standard foot and are discussed
in detail in a later section.

2 THE HEAD
4. NEEDLE BAR ACTI ON:
Thread take
up lever
19
(19) On occasion you m ay
encounter a m achine with a
broken or badly bent Thread Take
Up lever which needs replacing.
Because this is infrequent - and a
tricky operation on certain
models - we describe the action
required in the fault finding
section.
Needle Clam ping:
The last area we need to look at is
the needle clam p. This can
usually be successfully cleaned in
situ using a tooth brush. If you do
have cause to dismantle it, you
should be aware of the slight
variation between models.
End of
Needle Bar
showing
locating
gr oove for
top of
needle
20
(20) The illustration above shows
the sim plest form of needle
clamp as fitted to early 99 and 66
models.
(21) A later m odification
included a thread guide attached
to the back of the Needle Bar with
a small screw.
2.3.2006
2
21
22
(22) The latest and m ost
complicated system has a small
thread guide component located
inside the needle clamp - and the
clamp itself is secured to the bar
with a small grub screw.
When re-assembling it is easiest
to seat the thread guide in the
clamp then slide both upwards
onto the needle bar - then insert
and tighten the grub screw.
The thumb screw is then required
to secure the needle. It presses on
the anvil end of the thread guide
which in turn presses on the side
of the top end of the needle.
It is worth a reminder here that
the flat side of the needle on the
201 machines should face to the
left (away from the machine). On
all the other models the flat side
faces right (inwards towards the
machine).
If you get this wrong the machine
sim ply wont sew, for reasons
explained in the first section on
How a sewing machine works..
[2] G - 4

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (66 & 99)
I NTRODUCTI ON
This section covers the mecha-
nisms revealed when the cover
plates are removed. This includes
removing, cleaning and resetting
the feed dog, hook ring and lower
bobbin.
1 out.
(1) You will find it easier and
possibly less painful if you
remove the presser foot and the
needle before starting work in
this area.
COVER PLATES
(2) The semi-circular feed plates,
while different in size, all attach
in the same way with two screws.
These are easier to remove by
using a long screw-driver, (a)
particularly one with the blade
cut at an angle of 150 or (b) with a
cranked (or angled) screwdriver.
Clean and set aside.
3 machine for cleaning. (This one
(3) Rem ove the rectangular
cover by lifting the inside
edge up a little, pushing it
over the feed dog and sliding
it off.
Before you stow it away, clean out
the grooves underneath with a
discarded needle or a knife blade
and give a single drop of oil to
each.
4 The components are shown in
(4) The cover is held in place with
a plate spring. Brush out any
debris from this area and check
that the spring is intact.
The screw holding this spring in
place has a very narrow diameter.
If you decide to remove it for
cleaning, be very careful how
much force you use.
FEED DOG
This is held in by a screw under
the machine shown here.
5
(5) Tur n the m achine up on end,
resting on the face plate, if
the screw is difficult to tur n.
(6) The feed dog can then be
lifted out upwards from the
needed it!)
[2] H - 1
2.3.2006
2
Make sure you remove all fluff
from between the teeth of the
feed dog as well as giving it a
general clean. Put to one side for
the m om ent as it is easier to
clean the hook ring area with it
HOOK RI NG AREA
these illustrations. The early type
had a fixed bobbin holder
position bracket.
The later type was changed to
allow the removal of the bobbin
holder without rem oving the
position bracket as well. In both
cases remove the bobbin holder
and the position bracket to clean
the hook ring.
Early type
7
(7) Undo the screw holding the
position br acket in place.
Take it out and the bobbin
holder should also com e out
easily.
Later type
The position bracket now con-
sists of two parts, the main body
and a latch plate, joined by a
screw.

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (66 & 99)
Latch
Plate
Latch Plate
Screw
(8) By hooking a fingernail under
the latch plate, it can be lifted
and m oved side-ways, m aking
enough space for the bobbin
holder to be re-moved.
(9) To rem ove the m ain body
fir st undo the screw and
rem ove the latch plate.
The screw holding the position
bracket in the early type is
replaced by a pin (see arrow
above).
(10) The pin is held in by a grub
screw under the base plate.
Loosen this screw.
8 11
(11) Now locate the underside of
the pin. Its position is shown here
and can usually be seen as a
small shiny circle.
Push on this with a nail punch
and it will lift up and can be
9 removed from the top. Hold the
position bracket aside for
cleaning.
12
(12) Now clean the hook r ing.
If the machine is of any age it will
have collected a lot of fluff, which
mixed with oil can take a while to
remove.
Scrape round the inside of the
hook ring as well as the outside,
and clean the cuts in its surface.
Do not try to remove the hook ring
for cl eani ng - it destroys the
machines timing.
Clean out any debris from the
hook ring area and check the
condition of the actual hook
10 (arrowed). It should have a clean
sharp point, free of fluff.
[2] H - 2
2.3.2006
2
Bobbin Holder Position Br acket
Thread
Felt Guidance Spr ing
Bobbin
Lifting
Ar m
Bobbin Holder
13 Locating Spur
(13) Apart from keeping the
bobbin holder in position, this
unit has:
a felt wick to keep the hook
ring free of fluff
a lever, which when depressed,
lifts the bobbin out of the holder
for easy removal.
at one side there is a flat
spring that provides a smooth
path for the upper thread as it
goes round the bobbin holder.
14
(14) If the felt has been wor n,
rem ove it in its spr ing
holder.
The felt can be difficult to remove
from its holder. Some-times it
yields to snipe-nosed pliers, or
driving an old needle through
from the side and unscrewing it.
As a last resort, a small drill can
be used to bore most of it out and
then pick the rest out with a
needle.
Clean the rest of the bracket. A
stiff toothbrush is ideal for this.

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (66 & 99)
If needed, a new felt can be cut.
At present, Netley Marsh has a
small stock of this felt, 5 mm
thick, which can be supplied in a
strip 17 mm wide. From this a
trapezium needs to be cut, with a
wide end 9 mm and the other end
3 mm.
15
(15) If these are cut from
alternate directions there is
virtually no waste. Make a cut 5
mm deep in the wide end to fit
over the rim of the hook ring.
16
(16) Screw the nar r ow end of the
felt into the spr ing as far as
it will go
Then screw the spring into the
side of the bracket, finishing with
the slot horizontal. It is now
ready for refitting.
BOBBI N HOLDER
Remove the bobbin and clean the
holder. You will see there are two
small screws in the side of the
holder: the fixing screw and the
tension adjustment screw.
17
Thread
Exit Notch
Thread
Entr ance Fixing
Tension Screw
Adjustm ent
Screw
(17) There is a small spring in the
side of the holder which controls
the lower bobbin thread tension.
The fixing screw fastens the
spring to the body of the bobbin
holder, and the other varies the
tension on the spring.
18
(18) After cleaning, retur n the
bobbin to the holder. Hold
the bobbin with the thread
leaving it in an anti-
clockwise direction.
19
(19) Dr aw the thread into the top
of the slot in the side of the
bobbin holder...
20
(20) ...then backwards so the
thread is dr awn into the
exit slot .
The thread then feeds from the
notch in the bobbin case towards
the needle.
Check that there is som e
resistance when you pull the end
of the thread. To be precise, this
should be equivalent to 1 oz (28
grams).
[2] H - 3
2.3.2006
2
You can test this by hanging a 1
oz weight or equivalent (3 one
pound coins) from the thread
and turning the bobbin holder
nearly vertical. The thread
should just about leave the
bobbin.
Adjust the tension as required. If
you cant get enough tension, it is
probably one of two reasons:
The spring has been dam -
aged. Fit a different one if you
have a spare, or note for attention
on the checklist.
Fluff has collected under the
spring. Remove the spring, clean
and refit.
REASSEMBLY
21
(21) Place the bobbin position
br acket in the hook r ing in
its appr oxim ate position.
22
(22) Now replace the bobbin
holder, so that the groove in
its side saddles the edge of
the hook r ing and the notch
in its end is located in the spur
on the position br acket .
Now wriggle the position bracket
into place, with the felt half above
and half below the hook ring top
edge.
 2.3.2006

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (66 & 99) 2

If you have the early model with

the screw, make sure the tail of
the position bracket is in its
notch, then fasten the screw.

25

(25) Lever the position br acket

acr oss to m ake this sm all
23 gap...

(23) If you have the pin type,

inser t the pin until the
shoulder s of the pin are
com pletely in the position
br acket , then tighten the
gr ub screw holding it in
place.

26

(26) ...then press down fir m ly

on the plate with a finger
while tightening the screw.

Give the balance wheel a couple

of turns to make sure everything
24 is in the right place.

(24) Finally, put the latch plate

back on the position
br acket , and replace its
screw - but not tight at this
stage.

The screw hole in the plate is larger

than the screw, so that although
the plate is held firmly in the
notch, the bracket underneath
can be moved from side to side.

It is essential that, when the

screw is finally tightened, there is
a small gap between the back of
the bobbin holder and the
position bracket to allow the top
thread to slip through unhin-
dered when the stitch is made.
See picture (9) on page H - 2.

If a large gap is left, the machine

will work, but can be noisy.

[2] H - 4

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (201 & 15K)
201
1 not persist. You are in danger of
(1) Rem ove square cover in the
sam e way as the 15K (see
picture and par agr aph 11 on
page H-6). Rem ove, presser
foot , needle and bobbin.
2
(2) The 201 lower bobbin area is
shown here. The hook ring and
bobbin holder has been con-
densed into one neat package.
The only other component is (B)
the bobbin holder latch. The
operation is as follows:
The hook (A) turns clockwise
and picks up the thread from
the needle. It continues to
rotate, carrying the thread
with it over the top of the
lower bobbin.
As the take up arm ascends,
the thread is pulled down
through the gap (E) between
the bobbin holder arm and
the bobbin holder latch.
The thread slips off the hook
and the stitch is made while
the hook ring makes another
complete revolution, i.e. two
revolutions per stitch.
The picture also highlights the
two clips, (C) and (D) that hold
the hook ring and bobbin holder
together as a unit.
2.3.2006
2
When the needle holder descends,
it will stop the machine action. If
the screw is really stubborn, do
spoiling the tim ing of the
machine.
3
Instead, lever back the two clips,
(C) & (D) and remove the bobbin
(3) Rem ove the bobbin holder holder and its retaining ring,
latch for cleaning. leaving the hook ring in place.
The illustration is of the under-
side of the part. The spring thread
guides tend to collect fluff.
Clean round and under the hook
unit with a brush or cleaning rag.
Frequently, you will find that you
can avoid removing the unit for
cleaning. M ost of the debris
collects inside the bobbin holder
and can be rem oved with a
cleaning rag.
6
(6) Other wise, take out the unit
for cleaning. Unscrew the two
clips (preferably over a container
to prevent losing the screws).
4 Retainer Ring
(4) I f ver y dir ty however, rem ove
this unit fr om the m achine
by undoing the lar ge screw
which can be seen in the
centre.
Bobbin Holder
Hold onto the balance wheel
while you undo this, as the hook
ring will be turned by the
screwdriver.
Hook Ring 7
(7) The unit will then come apart
into the three pieces shown.
5 The bobbin holder is a sliding fit
within the hook ring. There is a
(5) I f this pr oves difficult , place a circular groove in the top of the
block of wood on the base bobbin holder, and the retainer ring
plate under neath the needle has a circular tongue which corre-
holder. sponds with this to hold it in place.
[2] H - 5

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (201 & 15K)
Clean all the components and
reassemble. Put a single spot of
oil in the groove on the bobbin
holder before replacing the
retainer ring.
The pointed end of the
retainer ring has to be
slid round slightly under
the hook to line up the
clip positions.
The location positions for
the clips can clearly be
seen on the hook ring and
the retainer ring.
8
(8) Replacing the retainer ring.
The clip opposite the hook
is the easiest to align.
clip. 9
(9) Hook the end of the clip on
to the top, press it in to the
side of the hook r ing so that
the holes for the screw line
up under neath and fasten.
Repeat for the other clip.
If you did not remove the unit to
clean it, lever the clips out from
the side of the hook ring slightly
with small screwdrivers or slivers
of wood. Reassemble the parts,
lining up for the clips as above.
Then rem ove the wedges and
press the clips into place.
Replace the bobbin holder latch,
with the bobbin arm secured as
shown in picture 2.
The hole in the centre of the
screw holding the bobbin holder
in place is an oiling hole. Give it
one or two drops of oil before you
return the bobbin.
Test that there is some tension on
the thread as covered for the
66/ 99 on page [2] H - 3.
Finally replace the feed dog after
cleaning.
15K
This is the earliest of the round
bobbin machines we send.
10
(10) It uses a larger bobbin, not
interchangeable with that for the
other machines.
11
(11) Rem ove the cover plate by
lifting the outside edge ver y
slightly and twisting the
plate with a little presure
towards you and upwards.
12
[2] H - 6
19.2.2006
2
(12) Rem ove the rear cover plate,
presser foot and needle.
The lower bobbin, hook ring etc
is enclosed in a removeable unit -
the shuttle race.
Although unfamiliar in appear-
ance, this unit works in exactly
the same way as the others.
(The hook ring is turned by
the driving yoke and oscillates
forwards and backwards)
The thread ...is picked
loop from up by the
the needle... hook...
...and brought clockwise over
the face of the bobbin holder.
As the hook reaches the end of its
downward travel, the thread slips
off the hook. The take up arm is
rising and pulls the thread up
over the bobbin face, past the
bobbin holder arm and the stitch
is made.

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (201 & 15K)
It is easier to work on the shuttle
race if you rest the machine on its
balance wheel end.
13
(13) Rem ove the bobbin holder
by lifting the latch on its
face.
As the latch is raised, a bar under-
neath it slides across and grips
the edge of the bobbin cheek,
holding it inside the bobbin
holder.
Check that it does so, because
otherwise with the vertical
operation, it is difficult to return
the bobbin holder with its
bobbin after changing the thread.
14
(14) Raise the needle bar to its
highest position, undo the
two screws on the fr ont of
the shuttle r ace and the unit
will lift off.
If it is stuck with old oil, lever
gently with a screwdriver to re-
lease it.
Now is the best time to clean the
feed dog and the area sur-
rounding the shuttle race.
15
(15) Tur n the shuttle r ace over to
take it apar t and undo the
lar ge screw which releases
the spr ing plate.
The unit can now be broken
down into its three parts; the
front and rear parts of the shuttle
race and the hook. Clean all
three.
16
(16) The two halves of the shuttle
race are located together by pins.
When in place they provide a
square-edged channel for the
hook to slide in, while holding it
in place.
17
(17) The hook is turned by the
driving yoke at the end of the
main driving rod.
[2] H - 7
19.2.2006
2
18
(18) Note that the hook has a
spindle to locate the bobbin
holder. At the top of this spindle
there is a circular groove.
Check that when the bobbin
holder latch is closed, the bar
underneath it slides across into
this groove, preventing the
bobbin holder from falling out.
The tension spring on the bobbin
holder has only one screw. The
tail of the spring is held in a slot,
so the screw can combine the
functions of holding the bobbin
in and vary the tension. It is
easier to check the tension before
returning the bobbin holder to
the machine.
Re-assem bly
19
(19) After cleaning thoroughly,
m arry the two halves of the
shuttle race together. Put the
spring plate on, with the two
arms just inside the two pin ends
and tighten the retaining screw
completely.
 19.2.2006

2 LOWER BOBBI N AREA (201 & 15K) 2

20

(20) Next , put the hook into the

channel in the shuttle r ace.

Put the hook vertically into the

race from the rear. First locate the
point of the hook in the channel
just to the left of centre at the
bottom with the hook leaning
backward. Now bring the hook
up vertical.

Push the hook to the right and it

will fit into the channel. Hold it
there while you fit the whole unit
back into the machine.

21

(21) Tighten the two holding

bolts. Refit the bobbin
holder, with the ar m located
in the notch at the top of the
shuttle r ace.

Turn the balance wheel a few

turns to make sure everything
has gone back into its right place.

[2] H - 8

2 UNDERSI DE 66/99
I NTRODUCTI ON
Apart from the usual cleaning
and oiling, there are four tasks to
be done under the base:
1
Checking the Roller s
Most i mpor tant: Every time the
feed dog is raised, the roller slides
in a channel. If the roller does not
rotate, i t wears i tsel f and the
channel.
2 and the link can be lifted off.
Replacing the Feed Dog
and checking the height
It i s i mpor tant to set the Feed
Dog height as accurately as
possible.
Too little and the Feed Dog
disappears back under the cover
plate before any long stitch
lengths can be obtained, too
much and the pressure foot tends
to bounce and loses control of
the fabric.
3
Checking the Stitch Length
4 Checking the Feed Dog Height
Checking for excessive play in
the connecting ar m s.
Each machine is dealt with in
turn, apart from this last item.
This task is so similar for each
model that it is dealt with as a
common task at the end of the
Underside section.
25.3.2006
2
66/99 Wipe off any penetrating oil and
apply a drop of oil at each end of
The underside of the machine the roller. Check the other roller
collects a lot of dirt, fluff and on the feed dog control arm.
surplus oil during its lifetim e.
Out of sight, out of m ind If the roller is stuck, you may
perhaps. have to remove the hook ring link
to use pliers on the roller.
Brush out all fluff and wipe all the
connecting rods with cloth or
paper towel to remove grease and
dirt. Use a scouring pad on very
dirty parts.
Checking the Roller s
4
(4) Rem ove the screw in picture
Turn the balance wheel until the
feed dog control arm can be lifted
up through the gap in the linkage.
1
(1) Tur n the m achine up so it is
resting on the head end.
Undo the screw holding the
feed dog lifting ar m in place.
5
(5) The r oller can then be freed
as the other.
2 Replace the link if you have had
to remove it. (Refer to picture (4)
(2) Pull the ar m out to the left . to get it the right way round).
Tighten its screw.
If the arm is difficult to remove,
turn the balance wheel while Return the feed dog lifting arm by
pulling on the arm. reversing the actions to remove it.
3
(3) Check that the r oller on the
ar m tur ns easily. I f not ,
apply penetr ating oil and 6
leave. Then gr ip with plier s
and loosen. Continue until (6)Replace the feed dog, with its
the r oller m oves easily. holding screw just tight .
[2] I - 1

2 UNDERSI DE 66/99
7 down before you test.
(7) Before you replace the half
r ound cover plate clean out
any debr is fr om the edge of
the depression into which it
fits with a sm all screwdr iver.
An accumulation of debris can
move the plate over slightly when
it is replaced. Replace the cover
plate and check that the feed dog
com es up through it without
touching either side. If this is a
probl em see the Advanced
Techniques section later in this
manual or note for Netley Marsh.
The points on the teeth of the
Feed Dog (at the m axim um
projection above the cover plate)
should be set at an optim um
height of around 3/ 64ths of an
inch. This equates to 50 thou-
sands of an inch.
You could use feeler gauges to
make up close to this. Alternatively,
set the height to a whisper under
the thickness of a 5p coin.
Set the stitch length to maximum
and turn the balance wheel until
you judge that the feed dog has
reached its maximum height.
8 Turn the balance wheel until the
(8) Lay any guide you have
alongside the feed dog. The
tip of the teeth should be just
level with the top of the
guide.
25.3.2006
2
Adjust by loosening the feed dog Turn the balance wheel for a full
screw, raising or lowering the stitch cycle to make sure that you
feed dog and retesting. have not overdone your adjust-
ment which can cause the feed
Not e: Al ways test wi th the dog to catch on the bedplate.
machine in its normal horizontal
position and push down on the
feed dog to make sure it is fully
Tighten the feed dog screw firmly.
Checking the Stitch Length
Now is a good time to check this. 10
With the stitch length control set
to maximum, turn the balance (10) I f all is well, re-tighten the
wheel and check that the feed nut while holding the bolt
dog traverses the slot in the cover still with the screwdr iver .
plate for almost all of its length.
If it is set shorter than this, do the
following:
9
(9) Lay the m achine on its side,
hinge side down, and locate
the link fr om the top of the
m achine to the long
connecting r od.
Loosen the nut on this linkage. A
3/ 8 AF ring spanner is best. You
may need to hold the bolt firmly
with a screwdriver to stop it
turning while you do this.
There is no need to remove the
nut completely - just loosen it
enough to allow the bolt to be
turned.
The bolt is an eccentric. You will
see that it changes the position of
the feed dog as it is turned.
feed dog is at the end of its travel.
Turn the stitch control bolt with
the screwdriver until the feed dog
approaches the end of the slot in
the cover plate.
Continued Overleaf
[2] I - 2

2 UNDERSI DE 66/99
OI LI NG
This picture shows the under-
neath oiling points.
With the machine resting in this
position, put a drop of oil in each
place m arked with an arrow.
Some of these points are pivots,
others are oiling holes. M ake
sure all the oiling holes are clear
of debris.
25.3.2006
2
Specifically these are: (This oiling hole can only be seen
when the mechanism is in the
The bearings at the end of the inset position).
top connecting rod, and the feed
dog arm. Run the m achine for a few
revolutions to work the oil into
The joints at each end of the the bearings before turning the
bottom arm. machine upright.
In the inset picture, the oiling
holes in the linkage arm, the post
holding the hook ring arm, and
the bottom cam into which the
roller fits.
[2] I - 3

2 UNDERSI DE 15K
Roller
Fitting
Adjustm ent
Lay the machine on its back i.e.
with the hinge points on the
table. Brush out all fluff and wipe
all the connecting rods with cloth
or paper towel or - in bad cases -
a scouring pad. to remove grease
and dirt.
Checking the Roller
The 15K has only one roller. It is
on a fitting connected to the long
connecting rod at the front of the
machine.
The roller is difficult to see and
difficult to detect whether it is
turning. If in any doubt, you must
m ake sure, as otherwise the
machine will wear unnecessarily.
screw
1 Replace the feed dog - if you
(1) Loosen the screw on the
r oller ar m .
2 Now is a good time to check this.
(2) Use a nail punch and a
ham m er to gently tap the
fitting to the r ight .
Stitch
Length
You can now test the roller for
movement.
3 you judge that the feed dog has
(3) I f st i l l st uck , r ot at e t he
fi t t i n g t owar ds you, oi l bot h
ends of the r oller, and gr ip it
with plier s to loosen it .
Replace the fitting by rotating it
back, and sliding the fitting back
along the shaft until the yoke on
the feed dog arm is in the middle
of the roller.
This operation will have upset
the height of the feed dog, so do
not re-tighten the screw at this
stage.
Checking the Feed Dog Height
removed it for cleaning.
4
(4) Before you replace the half
r ound cover plate clean out
any debr is fr om the edge of
the depression into which it
fits with a sm all screwdr iver.
[2] I - 4
25.3.2006
2
An accumulation can move the
plate over slightly when it is
replaced. Replace the cover plate
and check that the feed dog
com es up through it without
touching either side.
If this is a problem see Advanced
Techniques later in this manual
or note for Netley Marsh.
The points on the teeth of the
Feed Dog (at the m axim um
projection above the cover plate)
should be set at an optim um
height of around 3/ 64ths of an
inch. This equates to 50 thou-
sands of an inch.
You could use feeler gauges to
make up close to this. Alternatively,
set the height to a whisper under
the thickness of a 5p coin.
Set the stitch length to maximum
and turn the balance wheel until
reached its maximum height.
5
(5) Lay your gauge alongside the
teeth of the feed dog and
check the height .
If you need to adjust the height,
loosen the feed dog screw. (You
may have already done so check-
ing the roller.) See picture (1).
Rotate the fitting until the feed
dog is at the right height. Re-
tighten the screw.
Checking the Stitch Length
With the stitch length control set
to maximum, turn the balance
wheel and check that the feed
dog traverses the slot in the cover
plate for almost all of its length.

2 UNDERSI DE 15K
If it is set shorter than this, do the
following:
Lay the m achine on its side,
hinge side down, and locate the
link from the top of the machine
to the long connecting rod. At the
bottom of the machine.
6
(6) Loosen the nut on this linkage
A 3/ 8 AF ring spanner is best.
You may need to hold the bolt
firmly with a screwdriver to stop
it turning while you do this.
There is no need to remove the
nut completely - just enough to
allow the bolt to be turned.
25.3.2006
2
The bolt is an eccentric. You will OI LI NG
see that it changes the position of
the feed dog as it is turned. Turn This picture below shows the
the balance wheel until the feed underneath oiling points.
dog is at the end of its travel.
With the machine resting in this
Turn the stitch control bolt with position, put a drop of oil in each
the screwdriver until the feed dog place marked with an arrow.
approaches the end of the slot in
the cover plate. Some of these points are pivots,
others are oiling holes. Make sure
Turn the balance wheel for a full all the oiling holes are clear of
stitch cycle to make sure that you debris.
have not overdone your adjust-
ment which can cause the feed
dog to catch on the bedplate.
If all is well, re-tighten the nut
while holding the bolt still with
the screwdriver.
Turn the balance wheel over a
few tim es to m ake sure the
machine is moving freely.
[2] I - 5

2 UNDERSI DE 201
(1) Lay the m achine on its back
i.e. with the hinge points on
the table.
The covers have been removed
from the gears in this illustration.
The shallow cover under the
hook ring area collects dust and
fluff. Remove it to clean.
Norm ally the other gear cover
need not be removed. Brush out
all fluff elsewhere and wipe all
the connecting rods with cloth or
paper towel or - in bad cases - a
scouring pad to remove grease
and dirt.
Checking the Roller
The 201 has only one roller. It is
on a fitting connected to the long
connecting rod at the front of the
machine. (See picture (1))
2
(2) This fitting allows the user to
keep the feed dog below the
cover plate when doing free
form work - em broidery or
darning for instance.
By unscrewing the knob, the
roller part of the fitting will swivel.
1
Refix the screw and the feed dog
arm will be held down.
Because this feature is seldom
used, the knob can be difficult to
turn. If you fail with a
screwdriver, use pliers and add a
couple of drops of oil as soon as
you have a crack between the
knob and its fitting. Only
unscrew the knob sufficiently to
release the bracket holding the
roller.
3 of the roller.
(3) This picture shows the setting
for normal sewing...
4
(4) In this one the machine is set
for free form work.
[2] I - 6
25.3.2006
2
The roller is easier to see - and to
detect whether it is turning - in
this setting. If in any doubt, you
must make sure, as otherwise the
machine will wear unnecessarily.
5
(5) Loosen the screw on the
r oller ar m and push it to the
r ight . If necessar y, use a nail
punch and a ham m er to
gently tap the fitting over.
It is now easier to test the roller
and to grip it with snipe nosed
pliers to free it.
If still stuck, the roller bracket can
be rem oved. Rotate the fitting
towards you so that the screw
holding the bracket in place can
be undone. (It is norm ally
obstructed by the feed dog arm).
With a little wriggling, the bracket
can be rem oved. Replace the
bracket when the roller has been
freed and oiled.
Replace the fitting by rotating it
back, and sliding the fitting back
along the shaft until the yoke on
the feed dog arm is in the middle
This operation will have upset
the height of the feed dog, so do
not re-tighten the screw at this
stage.
Checking the Feed Dog height
Replace the feed dog - if you
removed it for cleaning.
6

2 UNDERSI DE 201
(6) Before you replace the half
r ound cover plate it is wor th
cleaning out any debr is fr om
the edge of the depression
into which it fits with a sm all
screwdr iver.
An accumulation can move the
plate over slightly when it is
replaced.
Replace the cover plate and
check that the feed dog comes up
through it without touching
either side. If this is a problem see
Advanced Techniques later in
this manual or note for Netley
Marsh.
The points on the teeth of the
Feed Dog (at the m axim um
projection above the cover plate)
should be set at an optim um
height of around 3/ 64ths of an
inch. This equates to 50 thou-
sands of an inch.
You could use feeler gauges to
make up close to this. Alternatively,
set the height to a whisper under
the thickness of a 5p coin.
Set the stitch length to maximum
and turn the balance wheel until
you judge that the feed dog has
reached its maximum height.
7 the feed dog as it is turned.
(7) Lay your gauge alongside the
teeth of the feed dog and
check the height .
If you need to adjust the height,
loosen the feed dog screw. (You
may have already done so check-
ing the roller - see picture (5)).
Rotate the fitting until the feed
dog is at the right height.
Re-tighten the screw.
25.3.2006
2
Checking the Stitch Length Turn the balance wheel over a
few tim es to m ake sure the
Now is a good time to check this. machine is moving freely.
With the stitch length control set
to maximum, turn the balance
wheel and check that the feed
dog traverses the slot in the cover
plate for almost all of its length.
If it is set shorter than this, do the
following:
Lay the m achine on its side,
hinge side down, and locate the
link from the top of the machine
to the long connecting rod at the
bottom of the machine.
8
(8) Loosen the nut on this
linkage. A 3/8 AF r ing
spanner is best . You m ay
need to hold the bolt fir m ly
with a screwdr iver to stop it
tur ning while you do this.
There is no need to remove the
nut - just loosen enough to allow
the bolt to be turned.
The bolt is an eccentric. You will
see that it changes the position of
Turn the balance wheel until the
feed dog is at the end of its travel.
Now turn the stitch control bolt
with the screwdriver until the
feed dog approaches the end of
the slot in the cover plate.
Turn the balance wheel for a full
stitch cycle to make sure that you
have not overdone your
adjustment which can cause the
feed dog to catch on the
bedplate.
If all is well, re-tighten the nut
while holding the bolt still with Continued Overleaf
the screwdriver.
[2] I - 7
 25.3.2006

2 UNDERSI DE 201 2

OI LI NG With the machine resting in this

position, put a drop of oil in each
place m arked with an arrow,
except A.

Some of these points are pivots,

others are oiling holes. M ake
sure all the oiling holes are clear
of debris.

Turn the balance wheel a few 9

times to circulate the oil.

To oil point A, bring the machine

The m ain picture shows the
underneath oiling points.
back upright and put a couple of
drops of oil in the hole which is
visible about halfway up the
hook ring casing. This oils the
gear wheels below.
(9) To oil the gear wheels at the
other end of the m achine, put a
couple of dr ops of oil into the
hole on the m ain pillar, shown
in the adjacent picture.

[2] I - 8

2 UNDERSI DE PI VOTS (All Machines)
CONNECTI NG RODS & PI VOTS
1 5
(1) Pivots are used for connecting
rod bearings on all m achines,
similar to that shown abve.
It consists of a screw with a
conical pointed end, which
locates into an opposite shaped
fitting on the end of the
connecting bar.
2 (6) You will see this type of fitting
(2) The screw is held in brackets
on the bedplate of the machine,
the end of the screw and the
locknut being visible at the side
of the bracket.
(3) Older m achines use pivots
without threads and locknuts.
These are held in place with
screws located on the end of the
brackets.
3
(3) Check that , when holding
the connecting r od, it has
the m inim um m ovem ent
fr om left to r ight . I f there is
discer nible m ovem ent , it
needs adjusting.
PLAI N TYPE
4
(4) Undo the fixing screw.
Gently tap the end of the
pivot with a nail punch to
m ove it towards the
connecting r od.
Check the amount of movement.
There should be the barest trace
of freedom. Too tight and the
machine will run hard. Tighten
the screw when adjusted to your
satisfaction.
[2] I - 9
25.3.2006
2
SCREW TYPE
(5) Use a 9/16th AF r ing spanner
to undo the locking nut . The
screw can now be tur ned
inwards with a screwdr iver.
Test the amount of movement as
for the plain type.
(6) Hold the screw fir m ly in
place while you tighten the
locknut with a spanner.
ADJUSTABLE CONNECTI ONS
6
on some connections under the
bed and in the head.
The purpose is to take up any
wear which m ay occur in the
bearing by tightening the screw,
which decreases the gap visible
in the picture.
If you feel this is necessary, be
very careful not to overdo it, as it
can m ake the m achine very
heavy to turn.

2 REFURBISHING - Sewing Test/Preparation
INTRODUCTION
The sewing test should
establish that:
The needle is set correctly
to pick up the lower thread.
The timing of the machine is
correct.
The tensions are correct.
The machine sews at short
to long stitch lengths - and
reverse if fitted.
The feed dog height and
foot pressures are set
correctly.
The test is little different from
model to model. Any variations
are covered as the test is
explained.
Each stitch is formed by the top
thread being picked up by the
hook and guided round the
lower bobbin. This locks the
two threads securely together.
Lockstitch
The aim is to achieve stitching
where the tension is equal on
both top (needle) and bottom
(bobbin) threads, so that the
loops lie between the two
pieces of material.
We do not know the variety of
fabrics, stitch lengths and
thread sizes that will be used
with the machine. So the best
we can do is to adjust the
tensions at a normal stitch
length with an average weight
of fabric.
We can then test at other stitch
lengths to show that the
machine can be adjusted to
cope with the changes.
19.12.2007
2
PREPARATION PICKING UP THE LOWER THREAD
Choose a piece of fabric for the
test. It should be of sufficient
size that you have room on it to
sew lines of 3 to 4 inches (70 to
100 mm) length.
This will allow you to work up a
reasonable speed and also
check the machines line
control. So a piece of 6 x 6 (
150 x 150 mm) folded over is
needed.
The material should not be
flimsy or stretchable. Curtain
liner is our preference for
weight and lack of pattern. 1
Always fit a new needle. It is
essential that needles be (1) With the presser foot lever
perfectly straight and have a raised, and the thread
sharp point. take up lever at its
highest position, hold the
Machines arrive with bent and
end of the needle thread,
blunted needles. Replace them
leaving it slack from the
and use them to clean difficult
hand to the needle.
to get at places.
The test is best done with a
medium size needle (14/90)
and thread to suit.
This section does not contain
detailed instructions on fitting
needles, threading up etc, as
these are covered in the user
manuals for each machine.
Keep one of each manual by
you for guidance. If this means
you send us a machine without
a manual, note it on the
2
Refurbishment Record on the
outside of the case.
Choose a different thread (2)Turn the balance wheel
colour for top and bottom. It towards you until the
makes it much easier to see the needle moves down and
stitch formation. back up again to the
Thread up the top and bottom highest position. Pull up
according to the user manual. the needle thread and the
bobbin thread should
come as well.
Tip: If you leave the cover slide
open, you can watch the top
thread encircle the lower bobbin.
[2] J - 1

2 REFURBISHING - Sewing Test
Note: If the hook fails to pick
up the top thread and
capture the lower thread, it
can be due to the following
reasons:
You are holding the top
thread too tight.
The needle has not been
pushed up into the needle
holder as far as it will go.
The needle is the wrong
way round. (Flat side to the
left for 201, to the right for
other models.)
The needle has been
threaded the wrong way.
(From right to left for the
201, left to right for other
models).
The needle is bent. Always
start with a new needle.
The machine timing needs
adjustment. This is rare, so
it is covered in the section
Advanced Techniques.
Guide the top thread through
the slot in the presser foot and
lay both threads towards the
back of the machine.
The following paragraphs
assume that you have set the
lower tension correctly.
See page [2] H-3 for further help.
SEWING TEST
3 speed.) See page [2] H-2
(3) Insert the folded test
piece and lower the
presser foot. Choose a
medium stitch length to
start the test.
4 persevered - the tension will
(4) Sew a seam down most of
the length of the cloth,
stop and turn the fabric
through 90 so you can
examine the results.
Note: Do not try to help the
feeding of the work by pulling
the material, as this may deflect
the needle and cause it to
break. The cloth should feed
without assistance if the foot
pressure and feed dog height
are set correctly.
Tension
Tip: With contrasting coloured
thread on top and bottom, it is
easier to see which thread is
looser.
5
(5) The diagram shows the
loops of the bottom
thread visible on top of
the fabric.
In this case, loosen the
top tension a little and try
again. (Turn the thumb-
nut anti-clockwise.)
6 The feed dog is set too high.
[2] J - 2
19.12.2007
2
(6) If the top thread loops are
visible below the work
piece as in this diagram,
tighten the tension a little
and try again. (Turn the
thumbnut clockwise.)
If you are lucky - or have
be just right.
Note: It is not always easy to
obtain as perfect a result as in
the diagram. With thinner
materials, particularly, you will
have to settle for near
perfection.
As you test at various stitch
lengths, you will probably have
to lessen the top tension at the
longest stitch. This is normal.
If you can adjust the tension
between too loose and too tight,
then the subsequent user will
have the same control when
changing fabrics, weight of
thread etc.
Stubborn top loops under
the fabric
If you still have an apparently
loose top thread even at the
point that the thread snaps or
the material buckles, there are
three possible causes.
The cotton is not threaded
through the tension check
spring - or the spring is
ineffective.
66/99 only, the top thread is
not passing between the
lower bobbin and the
retainer arm easily. (If you
leave the cover plate open
you can watch this at slow
(9).
In this condition, the feed
 19.12.2007

2 REFURBISHING - Sewing Test/Completion 2

dog rises up too far on its 99 machines. This function (9) Add the spare needles,
return journey, and feeds should be tested. It is normally bobbins and handbook if
the material backwards, used only for finishing seams, you have them, give the
shortening the stitch after so do not alter the tension - just machine a wipe with a
the top thread has been check that it works. clean cloth and complete
pulled through the tension the paper work.
Completion of Test
plates, so that too much
thread remains. When you are satisfied that the
machine is sewing properly at a
Missing Stitches
range of stitch lengths the sew-
The stitches should all be of the ing test is complete.
same length. If some pickups
And finally. . .
of the lower thread have been
missed, the cause will be one
of the reasons given on the
previous page for not picking
up the lower thread. The solu-
tions are the same.
Puckering
7
The material has to be pulled
through the machine by the
feed dog. The presser foot (7) Leave the piece of test fab-
holds the material firmly ric under the presser foot. This
against the feed dog. Make demonstrates that the machine
sure the presser foot screw is has been tested and is working 10
screwed down enough to pro- perfectly.
vide this pressure. (Enough
pressure is also needed to (10)Tie up the handle to the
keep the seam straight.) balance wheel and the
handle bracket to avoid it
If this fails to solve the problem, being damaged in transit.
it is because both tensions are
set too high, the feed dog can-
not pull the fabric through
against the resistance of the 8
tensions - so the fabric slips.
(8) Remove the cotton reel
Check the lower bobbin
from the spool pin, un-
thread tension and start
wind a few inches of cot-
again.
ton then cut it off and
Stitch length control wind the end a few times
When you have achieved a sat- round the pin.
isfactory stitch formation at a Leaving the machine threaded
medium setting, try stitching at in this way will hopefully help
various settings of the stitch the recipient to follow the
length control. threading sequence. (Cotton
At the maximum setting you will reels inevitably fall off in transit.)
probably have to reduce the
top tension to achieve a bal-
anced stitch.
Reverse Stitching
Reverse stitching is available
on 201s and some late model
9

[2] J - 3

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - Stitch Formation
CONTENTS
You should not need to use this
section unless you have been
referred to it from earlier
sections for the following tasks:
Setting Timing and Needle
Height
66/99 Pages K-1 to K-3
201 Pages K-3 to K-5
15K Pages K-6 to K-7
Replacing a broken take-up
arm
Page K-8
TIMING AND NEEDLE HEIGHT
Before dismantling anything,
check the following:
You have used a new needle.
The needle is the right way
round. (Flat to the right for
15K, 66 & 99, flat to the left
for 201.)
The needle housing is clean
with no dirt stopping the
needle lying flat in its groove.
The needle is pushed up in
the needle bar as far as it
will go.
If you now need to go further,
read on.
STITCH FORMATION
To successfully make a stitch,
the hook has to pass the needle
at exactly the right time to pick
up the loop of cotton at the eye
of the needle, and the needle
must also be at the right point in
its travel. A fuller description of
stitch formation is given in Part
1 of this manual, Section E.
To enable this timing to be set,
apart from early 15 & 66 models,
all machines have timing marks.
Two marks are provided.
The top mark establishes a
datum point when the
needle is at its lowest point.
The lower mark then gives
the point at which the point
of the hook should be
passing the needle.
Except for the 15K, the timing
gauge has to be set before
the check can be made.
Details are given for each
model.
66/99
1 cleaning, its position must be
(1) To ensure you have a clear
view of the needle/hook
interaction, remove the
cover plates, feed dog,
presser foot and bobbin
case, also the head plate.
SETTING TIMING GAUGE -
EARLY 66/99 MODELS
The timing gauge for these
models is the arrow-headed
pointer attached to the slack
thread regulator arm shown in
picture (2). This can be easily
misaligned during cleaning
work and its position needs to
be checked before checking the
timing.
Turn the balance wheel until
the needle is at its lowest
position.
There are two marks on the
needle bar connecting stud.
The pointer on the slack thread
regulator should be exactly
[2] K - 1
12.1.2007
2
opposite the upper of these
two marks when the needle is
at its lowest position.
2
(2) To adjust, loosen screw
(1) and set the pointer
opposite the top mark. If
there is insufficient
movement, it may be
necessary to move the
slack thread regulator
up or down by loosening
screw (2).
SETTING TIMING GAUGE -
LATER 66/99 MODELS
The timing gauge for these
models is the top of the bush
which is a sliding fit on the
needle bar housing. As this
can be easily disturbed during
checked and adjusted before
checking the timing of the
machine.
Turn the balance wheel until
the needle is at its lowest
position.
The top of the bush should be
level with the top mark on the
needle bar connecting stud
when the needle is at its lowest
point.
3
(3) To adjust, slide the bush
up or down on its mount-
ing until the top of the
bush is level with the top
mark.

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - 66/99
CHECKING TIMING
When you have set the
gauge:
Turn the balance wheel
further towards you until the
gauge is opposite the lower
timing mark.
TIMING The needle should
now be immediately in front of
the point of the hook.
NEEDLE HEIGHT The top of
the eye of the needle should be
about 1/16th of an inch (1.6
mm) below the hook.
If the machine meets both of
these criteria, then you need to
look elsewhere for your
problem. See the list of other
points to check at the beginning
of this section.
CORRECTING THE TIMING
If the timing is wrong, lay the
machine on its back.
The hook ring shaft is clamped
to the driving arm by a screw
shown by an arrow in the next
picture.
4
(4) Turn the balance wheel
until this screw is clearly
visible and loosen it.
You should now be able to twist
the hook ring without moving
the rest of the mechanism.
5 needle bar connector by a
(5) If the hook ring is stiff to
turn, insert a small
screwdriver into one of
the slots as a lever.
Hold the balance wheel still
while rotating the hook ring
until the hook point is
immediately behind the
needle.
[2] K - 2
12.1.2007
2
6
(6) Make sure you still have
the needle bar set with
the lower needle mark
opposite the gauge.
(Remember the needle
bar passes this point
twice in a cycle. You need
to make sure the needle
is rising when setting the
timing.)
Fortunately, the clamping
screw is easily accessible at
this point in the cycle. Before
you tighten the clamping screw,
make sure the hook ring is fully
down and the driving arm is
close to the base of the
machine so there can be no
vertical movement of the hook
ring.
When you have tightened the
screw, make sure the timing is
correct by taking the machine
through a complete cycle.timing.
Finally, make sure the clamping
screw is really tight.
CORRECTING THE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT
The needle bar is held in the
screw. Loosening this screw
allows the needle bar to be
raised or lowered slightly.
Access to this connecting screw
is at the back of the head.

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - 66/99 and 201
66/99 CONTINUED
Turn the balance wheel until the
needle height gauge is
opposite the lower of the timing
marks. The screw will then be
immediately behind the hole in
the back of the head.
You may find it easier to loosen
the screw with the machine
standing on its head.
Do not remove the screw entire-
ly - it is difficult to replace, and
if unscrewed too far it fouls the
inside of the head and the
mechanism jams.
With the screw loose, hold the
balance wheel still while the
lower of the timing marks is
opposite the gauge.
(7) Now wriggle the needle
bar until the top of the
hole in the needle is
1/16th of an inch (1.6 mm)
below the hook.
12.1.2007
2
If the needle bar is difficult to Its position must be checked
move, try twisting it to break and adjusted before checking
any adhesion caused by age. the timing of the machine.
When satisfied that the needle
is now at the right height, tight-
en the connecting screw, being
careful not to disturb the adjust-
ments you have made.
There is a flat at the back of
the needle bar which ensures
that when tight, the needle will
face in the correct direction.
Finally
Before re-assembling, take the
machine through a complete
cycle, checking that at the low-
er timing mark, with a rising
needle, both the timing and
needle height are correct.
201 MACHINE
To ensure you have a clear
view of the needle/hook interac-
tion, remove the cover plates,
feed dog, and bobbin holder
latch, also the head plate and Turn the balance wheel until
presser foot. the needle is at its lowest po-
SETTING TIMING GAUGE sition.
The timing gauge for these mod- The top of the bush should be
els is the top of the bush which level with the top mark on the
is a sliding fit on the needle bar needle bar connecting stud
housing. This can be easily when the needle is at its lowest
disturbed during cleaning. point.
Volunteer Carol Swift and Rahama Mohammed from
TFSR Partner GIGDEV, Ghana at Netley Marsh
[2] K - 3

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - 201 Continued
201 CONTINUED
Turn the balance wheel until the
needle is at its lowest point.
(8) To adjust, slide the bush
up or down on its
mounting until the top of
the bush is level with the
top mark.
CHECKING TIMING
9
(9) When you have set the
gauge, turn the balance
wheel further towards
you until the gauge is
opposite the lower timing
mark.
TIMING The needle should now
be immediately behind the
point of the hook.
NEEDLE HEIGHT At the same
point, the top of the hole in the
needle should be 1/16th of an
inch (1.6 mm) below the hook
as shown in the picture below.
CORRECTING THE TIMING
It is unusual for the timing to be
wrong on a 201. The hook ring
connection to the bevel gears
used on the 201 has a flat on
the shaft which makes it very
unlikely that it has moved out of
place.
All the other grub screws in the
transmission are fastened very
tight at the factory and one of
them on each gear is pointed
so that it bites into the shaft.
Any timing problem is therefore
more likely to be caused by
someone having removed the
hook ring for cleaning and not
replaced it correctly.
To correct the timing, lay the
machine on its back.
The bottom of the hook ring
shaft is hidden by the black cap.
10
(10) Undo the two screws
holding it in place,
revealing the bevel gears.
[2] K - 4
12.1.2007
2
The two screws clamping the
hook ring can now be seen. In
the picture shown, the top
screw is gripping the flat on the
hook ring shaft.
11
(11) Loosen the two fixing
screws.
You will need to turn the
balance wheel a little to get at
both screws. (Note that the
screws will foul the housing if
unscrewed too far.)
12
(12)Holding the balance
wheel still, with the
needle bar at the lower
mark on the gauge, turn
the hook ring so that the
hook is directly in front of
the needle.
If the hook ring is stiff to turn on
its own, a tap with a punch and
hammer on the base should
loosen it. Make sure you push
the hook ring back down after
freeing it.
If one of the screws is now
opposite the flat on the hook
ring shaft:
tighten any screw which is
accessible. Turn the
balance wheel until the
other screw is available and
tighten this also.
 12.1.2007

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - 201 Continued 2

201 CONTINUED Access to the connecting screw

is through a hole in the back of
Turn the balance wheel for the head.
a full cycle, checking that
the timing is accurate.
Replace the cap.

If a screw is not opposite it is

likely that the hook ring has
been removed and not
replaced correctly, so that
when the hook is at the correct
place, a screw is not opposite
the flat on the shaft.
13
(13)In this case, remove the
gear wheel completely.
Make sure the needle bar is at
the correct height (i.e. with the
lower timing mark opposite the
pointer) and turn the hook ring
until the hook is behind the
needle. Now replace the gear
wheel with one of the fixing
screws opposite the flat on
the hook ring shaft.
If you cannot do this exactly, it
is better to use a setting slightly
before the optimum position
rather than after it. Tighten the
screws in turn.
Turn the balance wheel for a full
cycle, checking that the timing
is accurate. Replace the cap.
CORRECTING THE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT
The needle bar is held in the
needle bar connector by a
screw. Loosening this screw
allows the needle bar to be
raised or lowered slightly.
Turn the balance wheel until the
needle height gauge is
opposite the lower of the timing
marks. The screw will then be
immediately behind the hole in
the back of the head.
You may find it easier to loosen
the screw with the machine
standing on its head.
Do not remove the screw
entirely - it is difficult to replace,
and unscrewed too far it fouls
the inside of the head and the
mechanism jams.
With the screw loose, hold the
balance wheel still while the
lower of the timing marks is
opposite the gauge.
14
(14) Now wriggle the needle
bar until the top of the
hole in the needle is
1/16th of an inch (1.6 mm)
below the hook.
If the needle bar is difficult to
move, try twisting it to break
any adhesion caused by age.
When satisfied that the needle
is now at the right height,
tighten the connecting screw.
There is a flat at the back of
the needle bar which ensures
that when tight, the needle will
face in the correct direction.
Once again, turn the balance
wheel for a full cycle, checking
that the timing is accurate.
Finally
Re-assemble the machine
ready for retesting.

[2] K - 5

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - 15K
15K MACHINE
TIMING
All the joints on the 15K have
locking pins, presetting the tim-
ing at the factory. It would only
be after severe damage to the
machine that a replacement
part - using grub screws - would
be fitted. So far, we have never
experienced this at Netley
Marsh. Therefore we deal with
needle height adjustment only
in this manual.
NEEDLE HEIGHT
Very early machines did not
have timing marks on the nee-
dle bar. This section deals first
with machines with timing
marks, then machines without.
Machines with Timing Marks
There are two timing marks at
the top of the needle bar.
The needle bar has been delib-
erately lowered in this picture to
show both marks clearly.
The top mark (1) will normally
be just visible at the bottom of
the bush above it when the nee-
dle is fully down. (i.e. the bottom
of the bush acts as the datum
point.)
When the lower mark (2) is level
with the bottom of the bush on
the upward direction, the needle
should be directly behind the
hook.
12.1.2007
2
To check the needle height, turn As there is no flat at the back
the balance wheel until the nee- of the needle bar to align it,
dle is at its lowest position. The make sure that the needle
top mark should be level with holder is aligned correctly, at
the base of the bush. If it is not, right angles to the sewing di-
adjust the needle height as ex- rection.
plained in the following para-
Tighten the needle bar connec-
graphs.
tion screw. (You may find it
NEEDLE HEIGHT ADJUST- easier to locate a screwdriver
MENT in the head of the screw before
you adjust the needle bar
height.)
Now take the machine through
a complete cycle to satisfy
yourself that the needle height
is now OK. Re-assemble the
machine.
If you still have a problem, it is
just possible that the position
of the bush has been moved.
As with the other models, the
Use the method outlined below
needle bar is held in place by a
to check and set the needle
screw which is accessible
bar height.
through a hole in the back of the
head.
Machines without Timing
Marks
As said earlier, you should
have no problems with the ma-
chine timing as all the joints
are factory pinned. This
leaves the needle bar height
as the likely cause of any prob-
lems. This is covered on the
following page.
You may find it easier to loosen
the screw with the machine
standing on its head.
Do not remove the screw entire-
ly - it is difficult to replace, and
unscrewed too far it fouls the
inside of the head and the mech-
anism jams.
If the needle bar is stuck to the
needle bar connector, twist it to
release any adhesion from
aged oil.
Hold the balance wheel still
with the needle bar connector
at its lowest point. Slide the
needle bar up or down until
the top mark is level with the
bottom of the bush.
[2] K - 6

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - 15K continued
15K CONTINUED
15
(15)To check the needle
height on these ma-
chines, remove the cover
plates, the feed dog and
the small plate covering
the top of the shuttle race,
(the shuttle race cap)
which is held on by two
small screws.
16
(16)You may find it easier to
do this by removing the
whole shuttle race from
12.1.2007
2
the machine, remove the If you have been correcting a
shuttle race cap and then machine with timing marks and
replace the shuttle race an incorrect bush position:
in the machine.
19
17
(19)Reset the bush position
to accord with the needle
(17)Turn the balance wheel
bar timing marks i.e. the
until the needle is imme-
top mark should be level
diately behind the hook.
with the bottom of the
bush when the needle bar
is fully down.
18
(18)The best view of the
hook/needle relationship
is seen by looking from a
position slightly behind
the head.
At this point, the top of the eye
of the needle should be about
1/16th of an inch (1.6 mm.) be-
low the hook (not less).
If not, loosen the connection
stud screw as covered earlier.
With the hook immediately be-
hind the needle, slide the nee-
dle up or down until the top of
the eye of the needle is about
1/16th of an inch (1.6 mm) be-
low the hook (not less).
Now re-tighten the connecting
screw and check the position-
ing again.
Replace all the components re-
moved and retest.
[2] K - 7
 12.1.2007

2 ADVANCED TECHNIQUES - Take-up Arm Replacement 2

REPLACE TAKE UP ARM (22)The take up arm can now

be lifted off and a re-
Very rarely, the take up arm on placement fitted.
the 66/99 and 201 machines
With the 99, there should be no
can be damaged. If these ma-
further adjustment necessary
chines fall on their fronts, the
once the presser bar spring
take up arm can be snapped off.
and pressure screw have been
This can easily happen during
replaced.
refurbishment as well.
20 The 66 and 201 require the
The 15K tends to be immune
height of the presser bar brack-
from this due to the position of
(20)Remove the connecting et to be reset, and a check
the arm. In any case this can be
link cap screw. made that the presser foot
replaced easily.
does not foul the needle hole
Note: Because of the direc-
Netley Marsh does keep a small in the cover plate. See page
tion of rotation of the link, this
stock of these arms for all mod- [2] G - 3.
screw has a left hand thread.
els, should you need to replace
Use the screwdriver as if you
one.
are tightening the screw.
66, 99 & 201 TAKE-UP ARMS

21

(21)Now remove the take up

A Take-up Arm hinge pin arm hinge pin screw.
screw. (Normal thread)
B Connecting link cap
screw

The picture above is of the 99

machine. The head plate, the
presser bar control screw and
the presser bar spring have
been removed.
For 66 and 201 models, with an
exterior presser bar spring, the
presser bar must be removed
entirely to gain access to the
take up arm hinge pin screw.
Otherwise, these models have
the same mechanism.
22

[2] K - 8