Baby cot blanket crochet pattern free

YOU WILL NEED

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m),
6 balls of Yarn A Ecru (101)
1 ball of each: Yarn B Candy Pink (06), Lilac (10), Amber (66), Apple (02), Pool (71),
Peach Melba (68)
1 ball of Yarn C Chocolate (11)
A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook

MEASUREMENTS
Finished blanket: approx 73x91cm (28 3/4x36in)
Each square measures approx 9.5cm (3 3/4in)

SQUARE COLOURS
Make 63 squares in total, weaving in the ends after completing each one. Yarn B is the central colour of each square.
Make the following numbers of squares with each of the Yam B shades: 11 Pool 10 Candy Pink 11 Peach Melba 11
Apple 10 Amber 10 Lilac

SQUARE MOTIF
Ch4, join with a ss in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Using Yarn B, ch3 (counts as first tr), 2tr in ring, ch2, *3tr in ring, ch2; rep from * twice more, ss in top
of beg ch-3. [4 3-tr groups]
Round 2 Ss in each of next 2 sts, ss in next ch-sp, ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch2, 3tr) in same ch-sp, *(3tr, ch2, 3tr) in
next ch-sp; rep from * twice more, ss in top of beg ch-3. [8 3-tr groups]
Round 3 Ss in each of next 2 sts, ss in next ch-sp, ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch2, 3tr) in same ch-sp (comer), 3tr in
next sp between groups of trebles, *(3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch-sp (comer), 3tr in next sp between groups of trebles; rep
from * twice more, ss in top of beg ch-3. [12 3-tr groups] Fasten off.
Round 4 With RS facing, join Yarn A in any corner ch-sp, ch2 (counts as first htr), (1htr, ch2, 2htr) in same ch-sp, *1htr
in each of next 9 sts to next corner ch-sp, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in corner ch-sp; rep from * twice more, 1 htr in each of next 9
sts to next corner, ss in top of beg ch-2. [52 htr]
Round 5 Ss in next st, ss in next corner ch-sp, ch2 (counts as first htr), (1 htr, ch2, 2htr) in same ch-sp, *1 htr in each of
next 13 sts to next corner ch-sp, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in corner ch-sp; rep from * twice more, 1 htr in each of next 13 sts, ss in
top of beg ch-2. Fasten off.

TO FINISH
Lightly press each square on wrong side. With RS facing up, place squares on a flat surface and arrange with 7 rows
wide by 9 rows long, with coloured squares evenly spaced. With RS together, join squares in rows using a backstitch or
whipping stitch. Block and lightly press seams on wrong side of blanket.

EDGING
Round 1 (RS) Join Yarn A with RS facing in any corner ch-sp, ch2 (counts as
first htr), 2htr in same sp, htr evenly along each side with 3htr in each corner
space, join with a ss in top of first htr. Fasten off.
Round 2 Join Yarn C, ch1 (does not count as st), 3dc in same st, *1dc in each
st along edge to next corner st, 3dc in corner st; rep from * to end omitting 3dc
on final repeat, ss in top of first dc. Fasten off.

POM POMS
Make four small pom poms in Peach Melba and sew 1 pom pom in each
corner.

Lace Throw Crochet Pattern Free

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
36 inches wide x 52 inches long
MATERIALS
Berroco Weekend DK light (DK) weight acrylic/cotton yarn (3 1/2 oz/268 yds/100g per hank):
9 hanks #2966 turquoise
Size G/6/4mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Yarn needle

GAUGE
4 dc -1 inch; 2 dc rows = 1 inch

PATTERN NOTES
Weave in loose ends as work progresses.
Chain-3 at beginning of row counts as first double crochet unless otherwise stated.
Chain-4 at beginning of row counts as first double crochet and chain-1 unless otherwise stated.
Join with slip stitch as indicated unless otherwise stated.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Bobble: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps] 4 times, yo, draw through 5 lps on
hook.
2-dc bobble: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] twice, yo, draw though 3
lps on hook.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in first ch of ch-3.
3-dc bobble: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo, draw
through 4 lps on hook.

THROW
Row 1: Ch 149, dc in 4th ch from hook (sk 3 chs count as first dc), dc in next ch, *ch 3, sk 3 chs, [bobble (see Special
Stitches) in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch] 4 times, bobble in next ch, ch 3, sk 3 chs, dc in next ch, rep from * across, ending
with dc in last ch, turn. (9 groups of 5 bobbles)
Row 2: Ch 3 (see Pattern Notes), dc in next dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, [sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3
times, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc**, dc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * across, ending last
rep at **, dc in beg ch-3, turn. (9 groups of 4 bobbles)
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each of next 2 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, [sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice,
bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp**, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * across, ending
last rep at **, dc in each next 2 dc, dc in beg ch-3, turn. (9 groups of 3 bobbles)
Row 4: Ch 3, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next
bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp**, dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * across,
ending last rep at **, dc in each of next 3 dc, dc in beg ch-3, turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, dc in each of next 4 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in next
ch-3 sp**, dc in each of next 7 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in each of next 4 dc, dc
in beg ch-3, turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, [bobble in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc] twice, bobble in next dc, *ch 3, dc in next bobble, ch 3**, [bobble in
next dc, ch 1, sk next dc] 4 times, bobble in next dc, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, [bobble in next dc, ch 1, sk
next dc] twice, bobble in next dc, dc in beg ch-3, turn.
Row 7: Ch 4 (see Pattern Notes), sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp,
*ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3**, [sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times,
bobble in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, [sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sk
next bobble, dc in beg ch-3, turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, *ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in each of
next 3 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3**, [sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, bobble in next ch-1 sp, rep
from * across, ending last rep at ** sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, bobble in next ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of
beg ch-4, turn.
Row 9: Ch 4, sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, *ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in next ch-3
sp, ch 3, sk next bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next bobble**, bobble in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across, ending
last rep at **, dc in beg ch-3, turn.
Row 10: Ch 3, bobble in next ch-1 sp, *ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in each of next 7 dc, dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next
bobble, bobble in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across, dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-4, turn.
Row 11: *Ch 3, dc in next bobble**, ch 3, [bobble in next dc, sk next dc, ch 1] 4 times, bobble in next dc, rep from *
across, ending last rep at **, dc in beg ch-3, turn.
Rows 12-101: [Rep rows 2-11 consecutively] 9 times.
Rows 102-110: Rep rows 2-10. At the end of row 110, fasten off.

BORDER
With RS facing, join (see Pattern Notes) in side edge of row 108.
Rnd 1 (RS): Now working in mds, ch 1, 2 sc in side edge of row 108, 2 sc in side edge of next row, *work 4 sc in next
row corner (row 110), working across top edge of Throw, work 2 sc in each ch-3 sp, sc in each bobble, ch-1 sp and dc
across top;
A. working across side edge, work 2 sc in end of each row to end of last row, 4 sc in end of last row for corner;
B. working across opposite side of foundation ch, work 2 sc in each ch-3 sp, sc in base ch of each bobble, ch-1 and dc
across;
C. working across side edge of rows, work 4 sc in end of first row for corner, 2 sc in each row end across, join in first sc,
do not turn.
Rnd 2: Ch 3,2-dc bobble (see Special Stitches) in first sc, *sk next 2 sc**, (bobble, ch 2, picotsee Special Stitches, ch
1, 3-dc bobblesee Special Stitches) in next sc, rep from * around, ending last rep at **, 3-dc bobble in same sc as beg
ch-3, join in beg ch-3. Fasten off.

something pretty the pattern

about this pattern:
i found this pretty picture on pinterest and was totally smitten. after a
lot of googling and searching i wasnt able to find the pattern, so
decided to figure the pattern out myself. dottie angels pictures of her
thrifty find was very helpful, and i was happy to find out that this is
actually a pretty simple pattern

about yarn/hook:
any yarn with corresponding hook will do, i find that moving up a
hook size from what the yarn says makes a softer material that would
work better with a blanket. ive made pillows with these squares so
that wouldnt matter so much. i used sandnes duo (dk weight) and
hook 4 mm and the square measures 88 cm, with garnstudio drops
paris (aran) and hook 5 mm one square is a bit over 1010.

first a couple of basics:

1. one flower petal: 5 dc, take hook off loop, put hook (from front to back) through 3rd chain (the last ch of space before
the 5 dc) and the loose loop, yo, pull through both loops on hook.
2. the first dc on row is made by chain 3
begin with colour of flower. chain 4, make circle with one slip stitch
1st round:
chain one, 7 sc in circle. end round with slip st in chain.
2nd round:
make 1 flower petal in each sc with chain 3 between each one, end round with slip st in 3rd chain at beginning of round
= 8 petals
3rd round:
sl st into the first chain 3. make 2 flower petals in each chain 3, and chain 3 between each flower petal = 16 petals in
round. end round with slip st in 3rd chain at beginning of round.
change to background colour
4th round:
sl st into the first chain 3. *3 dc in the first 3 chain 3s, (3 treble crochet, chain 2, 3 treble crochet) in the next chain 3.
repeat from * 3 more times. end round with slip st in 3rd chain at beginning of round.

joining:
i crochet the squares together with slip stitch. lay out two rows of squares,
begin with the first two, make a loop on hook, put hook from front to back
through back part of dc on last row, first on one, then the corresponding
one on the other, yarn over and pull through three loops on hook. continue
like this, when you reach the end of the first side of these two squares just
go on and start with two new ones all across the length/width of your
blanket/pillow, like so:

Crochet Hexagon Afghan Pattern

Heres what you will need:
9 colors of worsted weight yarn (approx. 3 skeins of each depending on the size
afghan you would like)
H hook
tapestry needle and scissors
Size: The final dimensions of my afghan were 70 in. 70 in.

Granny Hexagon Crochet Pattern

Make 217 hexagons with the granny hexagon crochet pattern here, alternating
colors as you work.

Joining Your Hexagons

I have a bunch of rectangular afghans so thought it would be cool to make this one in the shape of a large hexagon
(fun!). You can do this too or join them in any shape youd like. Click here for my step by step tutorial on joining these
hexagons with the Join As You Go (JAYGO) Method. If you would like to join these into a hexagon shape and have
made the 217 hexagons, you will have 9 hexagons along each side.

Edging Your Granny Afghan

Now that you are all joined youre ready for your
edging. Click here for my Granny Edging pattern that
includes filling in the little valleys between your
hexagons.
Crochet Bunny Lovey
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Materials:
Size H 5.00mm Crochet Hook*
Category 3 DK yarn in 3 colors:
o 160 yds of Color A; I used Bernat Softee Baby* in Prettiest Pink
o 200 yds of Color B; I used Bernat Softee Baby* in White
o 160 yds of Color C; I used Bernat Softee Baby* in Mint
Stitch Markers*
Yarn Needle* for weaving ends
Embroidery Floss in Pink and Black*
Fiber fill* for bunny head
*affiliate link
Abbreviations:
ch chain
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
sl st slip stitch
sk skip
Tutorials:
Magic Ring/Magic Circle by Oombawka Design
Traditional Granny Square Photo Tutorial
Finished Size for Blanket:
Approximately 15 x 15
Instructions:
Blanket:
For the blanket, I used a basic granny square pattern.
With Color A,
Magic Circle, ch 3 (This counts as your first dc)
Round 1: 2 dc into the circle. *ch 1, 3 dc into the circle** Repeat from * to ** two more times. Ch 1, join in the top of
the ch 3. Sl st in the next 2 sts until you reach the next ch-1 space.
Round 2: Ch 3. (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into the ch-1 sp. *Ch 1, sk the 3 dc. (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into the next ch-1 sp.** Repeat
from * to ** two more times. Ch 1, join in the top of the ch 3. Sl st in the next 2 sts until you reach the next ch-1 space.
Round 3: Ch 3. (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into the ch-1 sp. *Ch 1, sk the next 3 dc, 3 dc into the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3dc, ch 1, 3
dc) into the next ch-1 sp (corner)** Repeat from * to ** two more times. Ch 1, join in the top of the ch 3.
Change to Color B by fastening off Color A and joining Color B in one of the corner ch-1 spaces.
Round 4: Ch 3. (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into the ch-1 sp. *Ch 1, sk the next 3 dc, 3 dc into the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip over
next 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into the next ch-1 sp (corner)** Repeat from * to ** two more
times. Ch 1, join in the top of the ch 3.
Continue the granny square pattern by increasing the amount of 3 dc sts between the corners for every round. I did 19
rounds in total broken down like this:
3 rounds of pink
2 rounds of white
2 rounds of mint
2 rounds of white
2 rounds of pink
2 rounds of white
2 rounds of mint
2 rounds of white
2 rounds of pink
Finish:
After the last round of granny stitches, join and ch 1. Hdc in each st around, placing 3 hdc sts in each corner.
Picot Edging:
Change to Color A
*Ch 3, sc into 3rd ch. Sk 2 sts, sc into next st.** Repeat from * to ** all the way around. Fasten off, weave all ends.

Bunny Head (Working in the round):

With Color B,
Magic Circle, ch 1. **Alternately, you can ch 5 and sl st into a circle.
Round 1: 5 sc in magic circle
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (10)
Round 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st** Repeat from * to ** around (15)
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st** Repeat from * to ** around (20)
Round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st** Repeat from * to ** around (25)
Round 6: *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st** Repeat from * to ** around (30)
Rounds 7-10: 1 sc in each st around (30)
Round 11: *1 sc in next 4 sts, sc dec** Repeat from * to ** around (25)
Round 12: *1 sc in next 3 sts, sc dec** Repeat from * to ** around (20)
Round 13: *1 sc in next 2 sts, sc dec** Repeat from * to ** around (15)
***Start stuffing the head. I like to embroider the eyes and nose before I fasten off the yarn but you can do it after if you
wish.
Round 14: *1 sc in next st, sc dec in next st** Repeat from * to ** around (10)
Round 15: 1 sc dec in each st around (5)
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Bunny Arms (Make 2):
With Color B, Working in the round,
Magic Circle, ch 1.
Round 1: 4 sc in circle
Round 2: [1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st], twice (6)
Round 3: 1 sc in each st around (6)
Round 4: [1 sc in next st 1 sc dec in next st], twice (4)
Rounds 5-7: 1 sc in each st around (4)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Set arms aside.
Bunny Ears (Make 2):
Outer ear (With Color B):
Ch 9
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each of the next 7 chs. 5 sc in last ch.
Working down the opposite side of the ch 9, sc in the next 7 chs (19 sts all together)
Working around, [sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st], twice. Sc in last 3 sts (21)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Inner ear (With Color A):
Ch 8
Sc crochet in 2nd ch from hook and each of the next 6 chs. 5 sc in last ch.
Working down the opposite side of the ch 8, sc in each of the next 6 chs (17sts in total)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Using a yarn needle, sew the inner part of the ear to the outer part and set aside.
Attach the ears to the top of your bunny head and attach the arms to the underside of the bunny head. Attach the finished
bunny to the center of your granny square blanket and now you have an adorable lovey!

Crochet Hearts Hair Bow

Hook Size- I used 4MM or 5 MM. (Or whatever size you want.)

Yarn- Any worsted weight yarn. I used ILTY.

Notes- Youll be working two loops. Any stitches not worked in or around the
original loops will be worked into what I call the middle space. That is the
part between the hearts. Dont worry if that part isnt quite perfect. Youll be
covering it with yarn later to make the middle of your bow. *If you do run into
any trouble count backwards from your middle stitch in your heart. It should
help you figure out where your slip stitches should be as well.
R1- Chain 9. Slip stitch into the 8th chain from the hook, slip stitch into the 1 remaining chain. Chain 8. Slip stitch into
8th chain from hook. Slip stitch into the middle of the two loops (the remaning chain that you slip stitched into after your
first loop.)

R2-Slip Stitch into the first loop that you made. Crochet these into the loop- **4 SC, 2 HDC, DC, HDC, SL ST, HDC,
DC, 2 HDC, 4 SC, SL ST.** Slip stitch into the middle of the two loops again. Slip stitch into your second loop. Repeat
from ** to **. Slip stitch into the slip stitch from the previous round in the middle space.

R3-**Slip stitch into the first slip stitch you made in the previous row. 1 SC into the next 4 stitches (Into the 4 SC from
previous row.), 2 HDC into the next 2stitches (Your 2 HDC from the previous row.), 2 DC into next stitch (DC from
previous row.), 1 HDC in next, slip stitch into the loop space (the hole in the middle).

HDC, 2 DC in next stitch, 2 HDC in next 2 stitches, 1 SC in next 4 stitches, SL ST into slip stitch from previous round.**
Slip stitch into middle space. Repeat from ** to ** on the other heart. Slip stitch into the middle space.

4- **1 slip stitch next 2 stitches, 1 SC into next 6 stitches, 2 HDC into next 3 stitches, 1 SC in next stitch, 1 slip stitch on
each side of slip stitch from previous row (See picture for where to place these.)

1SC, 2 HDC in next 3 stitches, 1 SC in next 6 stitches** Slip stitch in next 2 stitches. Repeat from ** to **. Finish off, but
leave a long tail to wrap around the center.

Weave in the starting piece of yarn on the back of the bow like this.

Fold your bow in half length wise and wrap your long tail around the center.
And there you have it! Im sewing some of my bows onto hair ties and the others I will attach to clippies. You can even
sew them onto headbands, hats, gloves, dressesyou name it!

Elephant Pacifier Bib

By Jocelyn Sass

Materials: Red Heart Classic worsted weight, 1-1/2 oz. #261 Maize, 1/2 oz. #412 Silver;
small amount of #312 Black;
G hook (4mm); 5/8" Velcro Sticky Back Hook and Loop Fasteners, 1 set;
pacifier or toy; sewing and tapestry needles; matching sewing thread
GAUGE 9 sc = 2 inches.

Body of Bib

Row 1: With Maize, ch 35, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn. (34).
Rows 2-34: Sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (34).

Divide for Neck

First Side
Row 35: Sc in first 12 sc, leaving rem sts unworked, ch 1, turn. (12).
Row 36: Dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 10 sc, ch 1, turn. (11).
Row 37: Sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (11).
Rows 38 & 39: Repeat Rows 36 & 37. (10).
Rows 40-45: Repeat Row 37. (10).
Fasten off.

Second Side
Row 35: Skip 10 sts from Row 34, join Maize with a sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, ch 1, turn. (12).
Row 36: Sc in ea sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc, ch 1, turn. (11).
Row 37: Sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (11).
Rows 38 & 39: Repeat Row 36 & 37. (10).
Rows 40-45: Repeat Row 37. Do not fasten off.

Rnd 46: Ch 1, working in ends of rows and in ea sc, sc around outer edge of bib, working 3 sc in corners. Join with a sl st to first sc.
Fasten off.

Ties
Join Maize at top neck edge; ch 60. Fasten off. Repeat for other top neck edge. Tie ends of ch into a knot.

Head and Trunk

Row 1: With Silver, ch 9; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn. (8).
Rows 2 & 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in ea sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (10, 12).
Rows 4-8: Sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (12).
Rows 9-11: Dec over first 2 sts, sc in ea sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc,
ch 1, turn. (10, 8, 6).
Rows 12-16: Repeat Row 4. (6).
Row 17: Repeat Row 9. (4).
Rows 18 & 19: Repeat Row 4. (4).
Row 20: (Dec over next 2 sc) twice. (2).
Rows 21-23: Repeat Row 4. (2).
Row 24: Dec over next 2 sc, ch 1, turn. (1).
Rows 25-30: Sc in sc, ch 1, turn. (1).
Rnd 31: Ch 1, working in ends of rows and in ea sc, sc around outer edge of Head and Trunk, making 3 sc in lower point of trunk;
join to first sc.
Fasten off, leaving length for sewing. Sew head only to front of bib, placing top of head at neck edge, and leaving trunk free.

Eyes
With Black and Satin Stitch, embroider eyes over Rows 4 & 5.

Ears (Make 2)
Row 1: With Silver, ch 6; sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across, ch 1, turn. (5).
Rows 2 & 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in ea sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (7, 9).
Row 4: 2 sc in first sc, sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (10).
Row 5: Sc in ea sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, ch 1, turn. (11).
Rows 6 & 7: Sc in ea sc across, ch 1, turn. (11).
Rows 8 & 9: Dec over first 2 sts, sc in ea sc across to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc,
ch 1, turn. (9, 7).
At end of first ear, ch 1, turn; at end of second ear, do not turn.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, working in ends of rows and in ea sc, sc around outer edge of Ear; join to first sc. Fasten off.
Sew Row 1 of ears to sides of head, with 'point' of ear at top.

Finishing
Sew Velcro on wrong sides of trunk, placing one side of Velcro on Row 30, and one side of Velcro on Row 24. Slip pacifer or toy
through trunk, fold up and fasten.

Free Baby Crochet Pattern

Baby Mitts
USA Format
Abbreviations
WS. Wrong Side
RS. Right Side
sl st. Slip Stitch
sc. Single Crochet
hdc. Half Double Crochet
dc. Double Crochet
rpt. Repeat
Approx Finished size:
Length 3.5 from tip to wrist
Width 2.5 Inches

Materials
Small amount of King Cole big value baby DK in white (001) Main Colour
Small amount of King Cole big value baby DK in contrast (either sky (005) or pink (006)

OR
Small amount of Worsted Weight Yarn in main color (approx 0.25ozs)
Small amount of Worsted Weight Yarn in contrast color (approx 0.25ozs)
4.00mm crochet hook
Small amount of 6mm wide Ribbon

GAUGE - 4hdc and 4rows of hdc measures approx 1 Inch square

**************************************************
Mitts - With 4.00mm hook and main color, ch4, join with a slip stitch to first ch, to make
a ring, ch3, work 9dc into ring, sl st to top of ch3 on beginning or round. Turn. (9dc + ch3)

Round 2 - ch2, 1hdc in base of ch2, 2hdc in each dc to end, sl st to top of ch2 on
beginning of round. Turn. (19hdc + ch2)

Round 3 - ch2, 1hdc in each hdc to end, sl st to top of ch2 on beginning of round. Turn. (19hdc + ch2) Rpt last round
once more. Fasten off, Join in contrast color yarn and rpt
last round six more times. Turn. Fasten off.

Round 11 - Join in main color ch1, 1sc in base of ch1, ch2, skip 1hdc, * 1sc in each of
next 2hdc, ch2, skip 1hdc, * rpt from * to * to end, sl st to first sc on beginning of round.
Turn.

Round 12 - ch1, 1sc in base of ch1, 1sc in each ch2 space and sc to end, sl st to first
sc on beginning of round. Turn. (20sc)

Round 13 - ch1, 1sc in base of ch1, * skip 1sc, 5dc in next sc, skip 1sc, 1sc in next sc,
* rpt from * to * to last 3sc, skip 1sc, 5dc in next sc, skip 1sc, sl st to first sc on beginning
of round. Fasten off. (5 5dc groups)

Finishing - With WS facing, sew in and tie off any loose ends of yarn. Turn through to RS,
thread ribbon through eyelet holes on wrist and tie in a bow.

Baby Head Bands (Tutorial)

Materials:

Cotton yarn (fine or fingerling #2), just a small amount

Crochet needle No. 3 mm

1 elastic band for pony tails

Sewing needle to attach the flower on the band

Instructions (Instrucciones):

* Start with 7 chains (for a wider band, use 9 chains). These chains will serve as the foundation, in preparation to cast on the
elastic band on the next row.

Row 1> Make one more chain, and then insert the needle in the 2nd chain from hook. Pass the needle below the elastic band, pick
the yarn and finish the stitch on top of the elastic band. Repeat 6 more times. (Total: 7 st)

Row 2> 3 chains (counts as first dc). Make dc over the scs below (Total: 7 st)
Row 3> Chain 3 (counts as first dc). Make 1 dc in the space in between the dcs below. Repeat in every space. (Total: 7 dcs)

Row 4 and up> Repeat row 3 until you reach the desired length [Check the chart below for the approximate measures according
to age].

Here is list of suggested sizes:

(Note: When measuring, take into account the elastic band as well, not stretched)

Last row> Finish with a row of scs, casting them on to the other side of the elastic band. Be careful not to twist.

FLOWER (FLOR)

Finally, decorate with a crochet flower, and sew it on the band, close to the top.
There are many crochet flower options. You can find free flower patterns in the following links:

* CrochetPattern Central (links to other sites, mostly written instructions)

* My Picot (diagrams)

* JessicaTromp (diagrams)

* Protenska: 3D crochet flower (written and photo tutorial)

Videos:

* YouTube: How to Crochet a Flower Tutorial.

Faux Ribbon Baby Hat Crochet Pattern

What you need:

-Medium Weight in 2 colors (Knit Picks Mighty Stitch in Conch and Silver)
-Size G hook

Gauge: Check Step 4

Get the bow pattern HERE.

0-3 Months
Start with a magic ring or 3-ch loop.

1. Ch 1. Hdc 8 in ring. Join with sl st. (8 sts)

2. Ch 1. 2 hdc in same st. 2 hdc in next 7 sts. (16 sts)Join with sl st.

3. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc. 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (24 sts) Join with a sl st.

4. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in next st. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 2. 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat.(32 sts) (3
diameter) Join with sl st

5. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 2. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 3, 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (40 sts) Join with sl st.

6. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 3. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 4, 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (48 sts) Join with sl st.

7.-11. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in each st around. (48 sts)Join with sl st

12. Ch 3. Tc in each stitch around. (48 sts)Join with a sl st.

13. Ch 1. Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Join with a sl st.

Ribbon: Ch 54.
Dc into 3rd ch from hook. Dc 51. (52 sts) Tie off. Attach a bow or flower to finish.

3-6 Months

Start with Magic Ring or 3-ch loop.

1. Ch 1. Hdc 8 in ring. Join with sl st.

2. Ch 1. 2 hdc in same st. 2 hdc in next 7 sts. (16 sts)Join with sl st.

3. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc. 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (24 sts) Join with a sl st.

4. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in next st. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 2. 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat.(32 sts) (3
diameter) Join with sl st

5. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 2. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 3, 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (40 sts) Join with sl st.

6. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 3. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 4, 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (48 sts) Join with sl st.

7. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 10. 2 hdc in next st. (hdc 11, 2 hdc in next st) 3 times. (52 sts) Join with sl st.

8. -12. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in each st around. (52 sts)Join with sl st.

13. Ch 3. Tc in each stitch around. (52 sts) Join with a sl st.

14. Ch 1. Sc in each st around. (52 sts) Join with a sl st.Tie off.

Ribbon: Ch 58.
Dc into 3rd ch from hook. Dc 55. (56 sts) Attach a bow or flower to finish.

6-12 months:

Start with Magic Ring or 3-ch loop.

1. Ch 1. Hdc 8 in ring (8 sts) Join with a sl st.

2. Ch 1. 2 hdc in same st. 2 hdc in next 7 sts. (16 sts)Join with sl st.

3. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc. 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (24 sts) Join with a sl st.

4. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in next st. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 2. 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat.(32 sts) (3
diameter) Join with sl st

5. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 2. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 3, 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (40 sts) Join with sl st.

6. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 3. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 4, 2 hdc in next st) all around the hat. (48 sts) Join with sl st.

7. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 4. 2 hdc in next st. (Hdc 5, 2 hdc in next st) repeat all around the hat. (56 sts) Join with sl
st.

8.-14. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in each st all around the hat. (56 sts) Join with sl st.

15. Ch 3. Tc in same st. Tc in each st around. (56 sts)Join with a sl st.

16. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc in each st around. (56 sts) Tie off.

Ribbon :
Ch 62. Dc in 3rd ch from hook. Dc 59. (60 sts) Tie off. Attach a bow or flower to finish.

Cute Crochet Bows

What you need:

Size G Hook (4.25 mm) (my favorite hooks)

Medium Weight Yarn (Knit Picks Brava and Might Stitch
Yarn Needle (to weave in ends)

Colors shown:
Brava Seashell and Dove Heather
Might Stitch Navy, Conch, Oyster and Mint

Ch 15.
1.
Dc in 3rd ch from hook. Dc 3. Hdc. Sc. Sl
st. Sc. Hdc. Dc 4. Turn. (13 sts)
2.- 4.
Ch 2. Dc in same st. Dc 3. Hdc. Sc. Sl st.
Sc. Hdc. Dc 4. Turn.
Tie off. Weave in ends.

Double Strapped Baby Mary Janes Crochet Pattern

Supplies:

Clover 1045/G Purple Amour Crochet Hook, Size G, 4.0mm*

small amount of worsted weight yarn, in two colors (I used worsted weight yarn and a G hook to make a shoe sized for
6-12 months. The other hook I found was an F hook, so I used that with fingerling baby weight yarn and made shoes
suitable for 0-3 months. I imagine some combination of hook size and yarn and gauge will give you a pair of shoes sized
for 3-6 months, all using the same pattern.)
two buttons
embroidery needle
scissors
 crochet thread for the buttons (I used a scrap of Lion Brand Yarn
601-630 Bonbons Yarn, Beach* in red)
sewing needle to attach the buttons

* affliate links.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain stitch

sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
yo: yarn over
hdc2tog: half double crochet two together a decreasing stitch ->
yo, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into next
stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook.
dc2tog: double crochet two together a decreasing stitch -> yo,
insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull yarn through 1st two
loops on hook. yo, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yo,
pull yarn through 1st two loops on hook, yo, pull yarn through all 3
loops on hook.
sl st: slip stitch
standing start: with a slip knot on hook, insert hook into stitch, yo,
pull up a loop. yo, pull yarn through loops on hook. 1 sc created.

Pattern:

Note: The first stitch following a chain in each round is worked into the same stitch as the chain (chain does not count as
a stitch), except for Round 7, where the hdc is worked into the next stitch (ch2 is considered a stitch).

Round 1: Ch 14. Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc in each of next 8 stitches. Hdc 1 in each of next 3 stitches. Hdc 6
in last stitch. Hdc 1 in each of next 3 stitches, working down the opposite side of chain. Work 1 sc in each of next 8
stitches. Sc 3 in last stitch. Join with sl st to first sc. (32)

Round 2: Ch 2. Work 1 hdc in each of next 12 stitches. *hdc 2 in next stitch, hdc 1 in next stitch, hdc 2 in next
stitch*. Repeat from * once more. Working down the other side, hdc 1 in each of next 12 stitches. 3 hdc in each of
next 2 stitches. Join with sl st to first stitch. (40)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (40)

Round 4: Ch 1. Turn your work clockwise so that you are facing the wrong side (inside) of the sole. Insert hook into
the space below the last sc you made in the previous round and work 1 sc. Work 1 sc in each stitch around by inserting
hook into the space between rounds 2 and 3 and working the sc AROUND the stitches from round 3. Since you are
facing the wrong side of the sole, this round will be worked in the opposite direction as previous round. You will also
end up with 1 extra stitch (41). At the end of the round, join to the first sc with a sl st and fasten off.

Round 5: {NEW COLOR} Turn your work again so that the right side (bottom) of the sole is facing you. With the
body color yarn, work a standing start into the last stitch of the previous round. Work 1 sc in each of next 14
stitches. Sc 2 in each of next 7 stitches. Work 1 sc in each of next 19 stitches. Join to first sc with sl st. (48)

Round 6: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 14 stitches. *hdc 1 in next stitch, then hdc2tog the next 2 stitches*. Repeat
from * once more. Hdc2tog twice. *hdc2tog the next 2 stitches, then hdc 1 in next stitch*. Repeat from * once
more. Work 1 sc in each of next 18 stitches. Join to first sc. (42)

Round 7: Ch 2. Hdc 1 in next stitch (see Note above). Work 1 sc in each of next 10 stitches. Hdc 1 in next stitch, then
dc2tog the next 2 stitches. *Skip 1 stitch and dc into next stitch*. Repeat from * 3 more times. Skip 1 stitch then
dc2tog next 2 stitches. Hdc 1 in next stitch. Work 1 sc in each of next 10 stitches. Hdc 1 in each of next 5
stitches. Join to the 2nd chain of starting chain using a sl st. (35)
Round 8 (Left shoe) : Work 1 sl st in each of next 12 stitches. Ch 20, sl st in 5th chain from hook, ch 15, then sl st in
same stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of next 9 stitches. Ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then sl st in next stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of
next 12 stitches. Join and fasten off with the invisible join.

Round 8 (Right shoe) : Work 1 sl st in each of next 8 stitches. Ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then sl st in next stitch. Work 1 sl
st in each of next 9 stitches. Ch 20, sl st in 5th chain from hook, ch 15, then sl st in same stitch. Work 1 sl st in each of
next 15 stitches. Join and fasten off with the invisible join.

Finishing: For both shoes, insert the strap through the hole made in the last round. Sew on a button on the same side as
the beginning of the strap, and place it wherever you need to towards the back of the shoe. I placed mine about 6
stitches in from the center of the heel. The loop you made when sl st in the 5th chain from hook is the button
loop. Make sure you choose a button that will fit that loop.

Crochet Pattern - Coasters

Quick Coaster Pattern:

Written in UK terms

Hook: 4.mm

Yarn: any DK cotton

Rnd 1: Into Magic Ring 3ch (counts as 1tr) 19tr into ring, join with a sl st to top of beginning
ch-3.(20tr)

Rnd 2: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr in next st, 2ch, *1tr in each of next two sts, 2ch; repeat from *
around, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch-3 (20tr)

Rnd 3: Sl st across into next ch-2 sp, 3ch (counts as 1tr), (1tr, 2ch, 2tr) in same sp, *(2tr, 2ch, 2tr) into next ch-2 sp;
repeat from * around, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (40tr)

Rnd 4: Sl st across into next ch-2 sp, 3ch (counts as 1tr), 6tr in same sp, skip next 2tr, 1dc in sp before next 2tr, *7tr in
next ch-2 sp, skip 2tr, 1dc in space; repeat from *around, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (you should have 10
petals made from 7tr clusters, each separated with 1dc)

Crochet Cuffed Baby Booties Pattern

In rounds 2-5 you will end your rounds in the same stitch as your chain. So technically you will be adding an extra stitch
to each round. I have found that this helps keep the heal flatter.

Crochet Cuffed Baby Booties

Size: 6-12 months

Supplies:
Vannas Choice medium worsted weight yarn in two colors

Crochet hook size G-6 (4.0 mm)

tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Buttons for embellishments

Abbreviations:
ch chain

SC Single Crochet
HDC Half Double Crochet

SC Decrease Single Crochet decrease (I used the invisible decrease)

Starting with color 1

Chain 10, SC in 2nd chain from hook, SC in next 7, make 5 SC in the last chain
Now working on opposite side, SC 8, join, ch 2.
Round 2: HDC, 2 HDC, HDC in next 6, 2 HDC in next 2, HDC in next 2, 2 HDC in next 2, HDC in next 6, 2 HDC, HDC in last,
join, ch 1.
Round 3: SC 10, 2 SC in next 2, 2 HDC in next 5, 2 SC in next 2, SC in next 10, join, ch 1.
Round 4: In back loops only, SC around, join, ch 1. (39 SC)
Round 5: In back loops only, SC around, join, ch 1. (40 SC)
Change to color 2
Round 6: SC around making deep single crochets (40 SC)
Round 7: Now working in both loops, SC around, join ch 1. (40 SC)
Round 8: SC 12, [SC decrease, SC in next 2] 4 times, SC 12, join, ch 1.
Round 9: SC 14, SC decrease, SC, SC decrease, SC, SC decrease, SC 14, join, ch 1.
Round 10: SC 10, 6 SC decreases, SC 11, join, ch 1.
Round 11: SC 10, 3 SC decreases, SC 11, join, ch 1.
Round 12: SC 10, 2 SC decreases, SC 10, join, ch 1.
Round 13-16: SC around, join, chain 1. (22 SC) (at the end of round 16, change color)
Change back to color 1
Round 17: SC around in new color, join, ch 1. (22 SC)
Round 18: HDC around (22 HDC)
Round 19: SC around (22 SC)
Round 20: HDC around (22 HDC)
Round 21: SC around (22 SC)
Round 22: HDC around (22 HDC)
fasten off and weave in loose ends.
Fold over cuff (rounds 17-22)

Optional: Slip stitch around the bottom of the boot to create a thicker rim. I did this along the first rim that was created
from crocheting in the back loops.
Tiny 5 petal Flower Pattern:
Magic Ring, SC 10 in magic ring, join, chain 1
In next stitch: (HDC, DC, HDC) all in one stitch, chain 1 and slip stitch to next stitch, chain 1 repeat around.
fasten off and leave tail to sew on

FLOWER POWER VALANCE

Crochet hook US size H

Join as you go = If you are not sure how to do this Google Join as you go
Crochet Method
Full flower

Row 1: Make a magic loop. CH 3 (counts as first DC) 11 DC in magic loop. Join
with SL ST to 3rd CH of beginning CH 3. 12 stitches.
Fasten off if you are changing colors.

Row 2: Join the next color in any DC. Ch4 (counts as your first DC & CH
1). DC CH 1 around in each ST. Join with SL ST in the 3rd ch of the beginning
CH 4 to close round. Do not fasten off. 12 DC with a ch 1 space in between.

Row 3: SL ST into the first CH 1 space. CH 3, 2 DC in the same CH 1 space. 3

DC in each CH 1 space around. SL ST to the 3rd CH of the beginning CH 3 to close
round. Fasten off if you are changing colors. 36 DC (3 in each space).

Row 4: Join next color in any DC. CH 3 DC in same stitch CH 4, *skip over one
DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2DC in next ST chain 4*. Repeat from * to * around until
last 2 ST, SK 1 ST, 2DC in last ST. Join with SL ST to 3rd CH of beginning CH 3.
Your ending join will be between the 2 sets of DC. 12 CH 4 spaces. Do not
fasten off.

Row 5: Make 8 DC in chain 4 SP. Skip 2 DC, SL ST in between the 2 sets of DC.
SK 2DC, 8 DC in next CH 4 SP. Repeat around. To end round SL ST in beginning
ST and fasten off.

I used the join as you go method when making this curtain. The join was in made
in between stitch 4 and 5 of the 8 DC on the last row. See the picture on
where to join each flower.

Assemble as follows

Row 1: 8 full flowers

Row 2: Half flower, 7 full flowers, half flower.

Note: I added the full 7 flowers first, then went back and added the half flower
on each end with the join as you go method into the space. See the picture for
where to start your first full flower on the 2nd row. It will not be directly
under the 1st flower. You will be joining the flowers on the bottom of the 1st row
and on the sides of the 2nd row as you go.

Row 3: 2 full flowers on each side

Row 4: 1 half flower and 1 full flower on each side. See row 2 for the order
in which they were added.

Row 5: 1 Full flower on each side.

Crochet Owl Pattern...

I used Sugar and Cream cotton yarn with a H/8 - 5 mm crochet hook. I also crochet
very tightly.
Start with a magic ring and hook 6 single crochet into it. Then, pull it tight and slip
stitch into the first single crochet to join. This is your first round.
Second Round - Chain one and then hook 2 single crochets in each stitch. Slip stitch
into the chain one to join.
Third Round - Change colors and then chain two. Hook a single crochet in the first
stitch and then chain one. Single crochet in the next stitch and then chain one.
Repeat until you get to the end of the round and slip stitch into the second chain of the chain two.
Fourth Round - Change colors and chain one. Double crochet in the chain one space and single crochet in the
single crochet stitch, repeating this until you get to the end of the round and slip stitch into the chain one.

Fifth Round - Chain two and double crochet into the same space. Then hook two double crochets into the next stitch,
one single crochet into the next three stitches and then two double crochets in the next two stitches. At the top of your
circle you will have -
(from right to left) ch 2 + dc, 2 dc, 1 sc, 1 sc, 1 sc, 2 dc, 2 dc.

Now, slip stitch in the next stitch, single crochet in the next three stitches and then hook two single crochets in the
fourth, repeating -
*1 sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in 4th st*
around the rest of the body ending with a slip stitch into the last single crochet stitch, a slip stitch in the chain two space
and a slip stitch in the first double crochet.
To finish the top of the owl, you will hook a half double crochet in the next stitch, double crochet, chain one, double
crochet in the next stitch, half double crochet in the next stitch, slip stitch in the next two stitches, half double crochet in
the next stitch, double crochet, chain one, double crochet in the next stitch, half double crochet in the next stitch and
finishing with a slip stitch in the next stitch.

hdc, dc + ch + dc, hdc, sl st, sl st, hdc, dc + ch + dc, hdc, sl st

Leave a nice long tail of yarn when you cut, for finishing. Pull the yarn all the way through the loop on your hook and
pull tight. Using a yarn needle,
weave your tail through the back of your owl making your way up to an ear.

To make the ears into more of a point, run your needle through the 2 double crochets and pull tight, loop through and
pull tight again. Then, weave your yarn over to the other ear and repeat.

For the eyes, make a magic ring with eight single crochets. Slip stitch into the first single crochet to join and leave a long
tail when you cut your yarn. Use the tail to stitch the eye in place. Choosing a dark color, make a french knot for the
eye.
The beak is embroidered on with yarn.
When you are finished, weave in all of your loose yarn ends and cut them off.

Free Easy Rose Crochet Pattern

Using crochet hook size I and worsted weight yarn, chain 51.

Row 1

In second chain from hook sc. Chain 2, skip next chain, sc in next chain. Repeat sc, chain 2, skip sc, sc in next chain
across.

Row 2

Turn, chain 1. In chain 2 space 3 HD crochet, chain 1, slip stitch (all in chain 2 space). Slip stitch in next chain 2 space,
chain 1, 3HD, chain 1, slip stitch. In next chain 2 space, slip stitch, chain 1, 3 HD crochet, chain 1, slip stitch. In remain
chain two spaces alternate 4 HD crochet and 5 HD crochet across until end of row. Fasten of and weave in ends.

To form rose start with the 3 half double crochets end and roll up into flower shape. Use a yarn needle to stitch flower
together on the back side.

It is simple to make different sized layered rose flowers by adjusting the beginning chain, just keep it an odd number.
The purple flower was 41 chains. The red flower was 31 chains. The small hot pink flower was 21 chains with a size H
crochet hook.

hello kitty crochet bag - free pattern

Materials:
Worsted Weight Yarn (one skein white and pink)i
Size 4.00 mm Hook
Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends

For the bag :

Make two
With white :
chain 20
Round 1 : turn, ch 1, one sc in each chain (total 20 sc)
Round 2 : turn, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 2 sc in second st, one sc each in next 16 st, 2 sc each in last two st
(total 24 sc)
Round 3-10 : turn , ch 1, 2 sc in first st,* sc in next st * till you reach last one, 2 sc in last st
Round 11-20 : turn, ch 1, sc in each sc
Round 21 : turn, ch 1, sc decrease in first st , * sc in next st * till you reach last one, sc decrease in last sc
Round 22-30 : turn , ch 1 , sc decrease in first sc, * sc in next st * till end

For the ears

Ch 1, sc 11 on the decreased side
Round 1 : sc decrease in first, sc in rest
Round 2-6 : turn, ch 1 ,sc decrease in first st , * sc in next st * till you reach last one, sc decrease in last sc
Sew them together
With Pink, sc along the side

For Bow
With Pink
Ch16, hdc in third ch from hook, and in each ch across, turn.
Round 1: ch2, hdc in next st and in each across, turn.
Round 2-7: repeat row 1.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

For Strap
Since I wanted it across Shoulder one, so I made it long

With White
Ch 60
dc across

With Pink
*3sc in st, sk next st* till end (both sides)

Sew it to the ears

For eyes and nose

you can use buttons, but I had black and yellow yarn

Ch 4, sl st in a ring
4 sc in the ring
Sew on bag
My LO just loves it. hope you have fun making it

Free Crochet Owl Purse Pattern

What you will need:

Hook Size- H for the body and an F for the eyes and beak.
Yarn- I used Lily Sugar and Cream 100%. I think any worsted weight yarn would work.
As you can see I used lots of different colors. I think a solid color purse would be
adorable as well.
Other notes: For this pattern I chose to bring my stitches up through both "loops" of
the previous chain (you can see this in the second picture below this sentence). I find
doing it this way gives the owl a tighter appearance.
Stitches Used: SC-single chain, HDC- half double chain, YO-yarn over

Row 1:You have two options here: you can either ch 3, and then 11 hdc in the first chain of the chain 3
(which is what I did to end up with the picture about), or you can do a magic ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in the
middle of the ring, pull tight. For either way, join at top of original ch 3 with the new color (Check out 2
pictures down for a better idea. I forgot to take a pic for this round).

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in same space, 2 hdc in each space around (see how I use both "loops"
of the previous row instead of using the front or the back? Not sure if this makes sense,
just email me if you have questions).

Join at the top of the ch 2 with a slip stitch in the new color.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in same space, *2 hdc in next space, hdc in next space *. Repeat from * to * around. Join at the top of the chain
2 with a slip stitch in the next color.

Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in same space, *1 hdc in next space, 1 hdc in next space, 2 hdc in next space*. Repeat from * to * around. Join in
the top of ch 2 with a slip stitch in the next color.

Row 5: ch 2, 1 hdc in next 14 spaces (Check out pic above, this is going to be the top of the purse where the eyes will go). Ch 2,
turn your work, 1 hdc in next 14 spaces). That is side 1 of two for your owl.

Make another side just like the one you just made. I chose to do the second one in a solid color.
For the eyes, switch to your f hook. Start with a magic ring, ch 2, 9 hdc in ring. Pull tight and join with a slip
stitch with your white at the top of the chain 2. Ch 2, 1 hdc in same space, 2 hdc in each space around. Join with
a slip stitch in the top of the chain 2. Make one more eye (obviously! ;) )

For the beak, use your F hook. Do another magic ring, ch 2, 1 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc into the ring.
Pull tight and join with a slip stitch in the top of the chain 2. This should give you a little triangle.

Now attach your eyes and beak however you want. Do this before you attach the two sides of the purse
together, it is much easier! Use a darning needle and some yarn to sew the pieces on.

Now join your two "owl sides" wrong sides together. Try to line up them up so they match. You
are going to sc around the outside of them to attach them and you want to them to be
perfectly lined up. Now stick your hook through both sides, like I have pictured above. YO and
pull the yarn through. Ch 1, insert your hook into both sides again (like pictured above) and sc.
Sc in each space of both sides around.

This is what your purse should look like when you are done! Now all you have to do is the
strap: Chain 40.

This is where it gets crazy (not really, it is just hard to explain). Insert your hook into
the opposite top corner of the owl (don't twist the strap). YO and pull though. Turn your work so that you can sc back up and over
the strap. Join with a slip stitch next to the 1st of you original 40 chains. Make sense? If not, let me know!
Cute Little Purse

It is simple to make, follow the pattern and crochet a rectangle, then fold it and sew sides, make a string long enough, sew the
flower or button on and make a loop to hold top part from opening. Done!

Pattern:

Chain 45 (or number that divide by 15).

Follow the chart from the picture one time.

And then repeat row 2-5 over and over.

Flower:

Use magic ring method or ch 4

Follow the chart from the picture.

I made a handle with i-cord, sew it to the sides.

Make a loop for the flower (just simple chain) to go over it.

Enjoy!

Abbreviation

- slip stitch (sl st)

- chain (ch)

- single crochet (sc)

- double crochet (dc)

- triple crochet (tr)

Floppy Bunny Hat

Hook Size: H
Yarn: Worsted weight cream color and optional pink for the inside of the ears.
Size: 6-12 mos. This is really up to the size of your baby's head.
Start with a magic ring.
R1- Ch 2, 7 Hdc into ring
R2- Ch 2, hdc in same space, *1 hdc in next ch sp, 2 hdc in next ch space* repeat around, join to top of ch 2.
R3- Ch 2, hdc in same space, (1 hdc in next 2 ch sp, 2 hdc in next space) repeat from ( to ) around, join to top of ch 2.
R4- Ch 2, hdc in same space, (1 hdc in next 3 ch sp, 2 hdc in next space) repeat from ( to ) around, join to top of ch 2.
R5- Ch 2, hdc in same space, (1 hdc in next 4 ch sp, 2 hdc in next space) repeat from ( to ) around, join to top of ch 2.
R6- Ch 2, hdc in same space, (1 hdc in next 5 ch sp, 2 hdc in next space) repeat from ( to ) around, join to top of ch 2.
R7- Ch 2, hdc in same space, (1 hdc in next 6 ch sp, 2 hdc in next space) repeat from ( to ) around, join to top of ch 2.
R8-17 Ch 2, hdc around, join to top of ch 2.

FO and weave in ends.

Back of ear:
R1- Ch 25
R2- Sc in 2nd ch from hook, (sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr ch in next 12 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc
in next 2 ch)
R3- (I am not sure how clear this will be so the picture below is showing you how to do this) Ch 1 and connect to other side of ch
25 with a sc. Repeat from ( to ) from R2.

This is the ch 1....

These are the sc in next 2 ch completed on the opposite side...

R4- Ch 1 and sc around the ear. FO (you may leave the tail as it can be tucked in when you are finishing the ear)
Inside of ear: Repeat rows 1-3. FO and leave a tail as it will also be tuck in in the next step. This will be the inside of the ear. Lay
it inside the back of the ear so they are concave towards the back...as an ear would be. Match up the stitches, put your needle
through both sides, YO and ch 1. Sc around the ear until you come all the way back around. FO. You will have two tails right by
each other. Position the ears on the hat and use these tails to secure very well. These steps are pictured below.

Two pieces laid on top of each other with the smaller inside the bigger. Tuck inthe tails in between the two sides.
This is where you put the needle through both sides. Then you YO, ch 1 and sc around . As you can see it is important to have the
sides lined up correctly so you can make the ear properly.

Granny Square Purse Crochet Pattern

Remember the granny square pattern I showed you at the beginning of Granny Month?

Click here to reference the Crochet Abbreviations Chart.

Make 2 granny squares from this pattern.
Side Piece
Ch 39.
Row 1: Work 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn 37.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as st), work 1 hdc in each st across 37.
Fasten off.
Line up the corner of one of your granny squares with an edge of the side piece. Join by single crocheting pieces together,
working through the back loops of the granny square only; the side piece should only fit along 3 sides of the granny square.
Fasten off. Repeat with 2nd square, but do not fasten off. Edge around top of squares and sides by chaining 1 and single
crocheting around.
Strap
Ch to desired length.
Row 1: Work 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as st), work 1 hdc in each st across.
Fasten off.
Using a tapestry needle, sew strap to the inside of your bag