Old Dhaka Tour

History & Sites of Old Dhaka

Contents

1 History of Dhaka 1
1.1 Etymology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.2 Kamarupa kingdom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
1.3 Sena kingdom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.4 Sultanate Period . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.5 Mughal rule and rise as the capital of Bengal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
1.5.1 Portuguese settlements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.6 Nawab era . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.6.1 Naib-Nazim of Dhaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.6.2 Armenian settlements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.7 British East India Company rule (17721857) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.7.1 Rise of Dhaka Nawab Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
1.8 British Raj rule (18581947) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.9 East Bengals (later East Pakistans) capital (19471971) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1.10 Post-independence of Bangladesh (1971present) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.11 See also . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.12 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1.13 External links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

2 Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban 10

2.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2.2 History of use by Parliament . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
2.3 Architecture and design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
2.3.1 Design philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
2.3.2 The Bhaban (Main Building) design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
2.4 Tourism and accessibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.5 Current developments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.6 Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.7 Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
2.8 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
2.9 External links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

3 Dhakeshwari Temple 14

i
ii CONTENTS

3.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
3.2 Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
3.2.1 Exterior view . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
3.2.2 Interior view . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.3 Declaration as National Temple of Bangladesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
3.4 Threats to temple security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
3.5 Religious and socio-cultural activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
3.6 Present condition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
3.7 Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
3.8 See also . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
3.9 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

4 Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque 18

4.1 Origins and inspiration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
4.2 Architecture and architect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
4.3 Prayer Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
4.4 Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
4.5 Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
4.6 Location and ownership . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
4.7 Restoration and controversies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
4.8 Conservation and criticism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
4.9 Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
4.10 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

5 Lalbagh Fort 21
5.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
5.2 Structures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
5.2.1 Diwani-i-Aam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
5.2.2 A water tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
5.2.3 Tomb of Bibi Pari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
5.2.4 Lalbagh Fort Mosque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
5.3 Some views of the fort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
5.4 Stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
5.5 Important facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
5.6 See also . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
5.7 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
5.8 Further reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

6 Star Mosque 24
6.1 Historical background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
6.2 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
6.2.1 Exterior decoration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
CONTENTS iii

6.2.2 Interior decoration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

6.3 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
6.4 External links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

7 Armenian Church (Dhaka) 26

7.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
7.2 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
7.3 Modern use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
7.4 See also . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
7.5 Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
7.6 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
7.7 External links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

8 Ahsan Manzil 28
8.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
8.2 Description and construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
8.3 Glory days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
8.4 Decline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
8.5 Renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
8.6 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
8.7 Further reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

9 Shankhari Bazaar 32
9.1 Location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
9.2 Background and the name . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
9.3 Lifestyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
9.4 Houses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
9.5 Temples and Durga Puja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
9.6 Pannitola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
9.7 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
9.8 Further reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
9.9 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
9.9.1 Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
9.9.2 Images . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
9.9.3 Content license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Chapter 1
History of Dhaka
Dhaka City across Buriganga River - a painting by Frederick
William Alexander de Fabeck in 1861[1]
Dhaka, formerly spelled as Dacca in English, is the capital
and one of the oldest cities of Bangladesh. The history of
Dhaka begins with the existence of urbanised settlements
in the area that is now Dhaka dating from the 7th century
CE. The city area was ruled by the Buddhist kingdom
of Kamarupa before passing to the control of the Sena
dynasty in the 9th century CE.[2] After the Sena dynasty,
Dhaka was successively ruled by the Turkic and Afghan
governors descending from the Delhi Sultanate before the
arrival of the Mughals in 1608. After Mughals, British
ruled the region for over 150 years until the independence
of India. In 1947, Dhaka became the capital of the East
Bengal province under the dominion of Pakistan. After
the independence of Bangladesh in 1971, Dhaka became
the capital of the new state.
1.1 Etymology
There are several myths on the origin of the name Dhaka.
One is that the name came following the establishment of
Dhakeshwari temple by Raja Ballal Sena in the 12th cen-
tury and Dhakeswari is the name of a Goddess. While
others say that Dhakeshwari stands the meaning of God-
dess of Dhaka; so the temple must have been named after
the region. Another myths says that the Dhak (a mem-
branophone instrument) is used as part of the Durga Puja
festival in this temple and hence the name Dhaka. Yet an-
other one says it came from the plant named Dhak (Buttea
Frondosa) which was widely found in that area.[3]
1
Dhakeshwari Temple in 1904
The more credible theory comes from the source
of Rajatarangini written by a Kashmiri Brahman,
Kalhana.[3] It says the region was originally known
as Dhakka. The word Dhakka means watchtower.
Bikrampur and Sonargaonthe earlier strongholds of
Bengal rulers were situated nearby. So Dhaka was
most likely used as the watchtower for the fortication
purpose.[3]
1.2 Kamarupa kingdom
Main article: Kamarupa
Kamarupa kingdom, also known as Pragjyotisa, existed
between 350 and 1140 CE.[4] According to the chronicle
of Yogini Tantra, the southern boundary of the kingdom
stretched up to the junction of Brahmaputra River and
Shitalakshya River which covered the Dhaka region.[5]
Pala Empire was the last dynasty to rule the whole Ka-
marupa region. During their reign between the 8th cen-
tury until the late 11th century, Vikrampur, a region 12
miles from Dhaka, was their capital. The Pala rulers were
Buddhists, but majority of their subjects were Hindus.[6]
2 CHAPTER 1. HISTORY OF DHAKA

1.3 Sena kingdom renoveated in 1459 AD.[8][15]

Around 1550 a Portuguese historian, Joo de Barros, rst
Sena dynastys founder, Hemanta Sen, was part of the inserted Dhaka into the map in his book Dcadas da sia
Pala dynasty until their empire began to weaken.[7] He (Decades of Asia).[8]
usurped power and styled himself king in 1095 AD.
Then largely Hindu community populated the lower
Dhaka region. Still existent localities like Laksmibazar, 1.5 Mughal rule and rise as the
Banglabazar, Sutrapur, Jaluanagar, Banianagar, Goal-
nagar, Tantibazar, Shankhari Bazaar, Sutarnagar, Ka- capital of Bengal
marnagar, Patuatuli and Kumartuli are the examples of
settlements of Hindu craftsmen and professionals in that
era.[8] According to popular legend, Dhakeshwari Temple
was built by Ballal Sena, the second Sena ruler.[9] An-
other tradition says, there were fty two bazaars and fty
three streets and the region acquired the name of Baunno
Bazaar O Teppun Gulli.[10]

1.4 Sultanate Period

Earliest painting of Lalbagh Fort by Johan Zoany in 1787

Binat Bibi Mosque (1454) the earliest known mosque surviving

in Dhaka

Upon arrival of Islam in this region, Turkish and Afghan

rulers reigned the area from the early 14th century un-
til the late 16th century. An Afghan fort (also known
as Old Fort of Dhaka) was built at that time which was
later converted to the present-form of Dhaka Central
Jail in 1820 by the British.[11] A 17th-century historian, 1870 photograph of Bara Katra
Mirza Nathan, described the fort in his book Baharistan-
i-Ghaibi as surrounded by mud walls and the largest and Dhaka came into the domain of Mughal Empire during
strongest in pre-Mughal era.[11] the reign of Akbar after the Battle of Tukaroi which was
fought in 1575 near the village of Tukaroi now in Balasore
In 1412 Shah Ali Baghdadi, a saint arrived in Delhi and District, Odisha between the Mughals and the Karrani
then came to Dhaka where he became a disciple of Shah Sultanate of Bengal and Bihar. [16]
Bahar of the Chistia order.[12] His tomb is still at Mirpur
on the outskirts of Dhaka. However, during this reign of Emperor Akbar (r. 1556
1605), Dhaka was referred as a Thana (a military
Binat Bibi Mosque was built in 1454 at Narinda area outpost).[17] Dhaka was situated in Bhati region which
of Dhaka during the reign of the Sultan of Bengal, hosted several rebel forces led by Bara-Bhuiyans from
Nasiruddin Mahmud Shah (r. 1435 1459).[13] It is the mid to late 16th century. After the leader of Bara-
oldest brick structure that still exists in the city.[14] Bhuiyans, Musa Khan, was subdued by Mughal General
According to the inscription found near the present-day Islam Khan Chisti in 1608, Dhaka again went directly un-
Central Jail area, the gate of Naswallagali Mosque was der control of Mughals.
1.5. MUGHAL RULE AND RISE AS THE CAPITAL OF BENGAL 3

The newly appointed Governor of Bengal, Islam Khan for its greatness, for its magnicent buildings,
transferred the Bengal capital from Rajmahal to Dhaka and the multitude of its inhabitants. A very
in order to crush further rebel uprisings.[8] This initiated great and potent, permanent, and paid army
a new era of the history of Dhaka as the capital city of is based here, in a constant state of readiness.
Mughol province of Bengal. He also renamed Dhaka Also, many large, strong, and stately elephants,
as Jahangirnagar (City of Jahangir) after the Emperor trained for battle, which are kept close to the
Jahangir. Due to its location right beside some main palace.
river routes, Dhaka was an important center for business.
The Muslin fabric was produced and traded in this area.
He successfully crushed the regional revolts in Jessore,
Bakla (present days Barisal) and Bhulua (present days
Noakhali) and brought almost the entire province un-
der the Mughal domain.[18] As the next governor, Prince
Shuja built Bara Katra between 1644 and 1646 in Dhaka
to serve as his ocial residence. He also patronized
building of Hussaini Dalan, a Shia shrine in old Dhaka
though he himself was a Sunni. In the late 1640s, for per-
sonal and political reasons, he made the temporary move
to shift the capital back to Rajmahal. Dhaka became a
subordinate station.
Due to political turmoil, Emperor Aurangzeb sent Mir
Jumla to deal with Prince Shuja.[19] He pursued Shuja up
to Dhaka and reached the city on 9 May 1660. But Shuja
ed to Arakan region. As Jumla was ordered to become
the next Governor of Bengal, Dhaka was again made the
capital of the region. He was engaged in construction ac-
tivities in Dhaka and its suburbs - two roads, two bridges
and a network of forts. A fort at Tangi-Jamalpur guarded
one of the roads connecting Dhaka with the northern dis-
tricts which is now known as Mymensingh Road.[19] He
built Mir Jumla Gate at the northern border to defend
the city from the attacks of Magh pirates. Italian traveler
Niccolao Manucci came to Dhaka in 166263.[20] Ac-
cording to him, Dhaka had large number of inhabitants
compare to the size of the city. Most of the houses were
built of straw. There were only two kuthis - one of the
English and the other of the Dutch. Ships were loaded
with ne white cotton and silk fabrics. A large number Shaista Khan, governor of Bengal (1664-1688)
of Christians and white and black Portuguese resided in
Dhaka.[20] Construction of Lalbagh Fort was commenced in 1678 by
Thomas Bowrey, a British merchant sailor, visited Dhaka Prince Muhammad Azam during his 15-month-long gov-
in the 1670s. In his book, A Geographical Account of ernorship of Bengal, but before the work could complete,
Countries Round the Bay of Bengal, he mentioned:[21] he was recalled by Emperor Aurangzeb.
The largest expansion of the city took place under the
The City of Dhaka is a very large, spa- next Mughal governor Shaista Khan (16641688). The
cious one, but stands on low, marshy, swampy city then stretched for 12 miles in length and 8 miles in
ground, and the water of that ground is very breadth and is believed to have had a population of nearly
brackish, which is the only inconvenience. It a million people.[22] The Chawk Mosque, Babubazar
has, however, some very ne conveniences that Mosque, Sat Gumbad Mosque, Choto Katra were origi-
compensate, having a very ne and large river nally built during this period. He also built tombs of Bibi
that runs close by the city walls, navigable by Pari, Bibi Champa and Dara Begum.[8] A French trav-
ships of 500 or 600 tonnes burden. The wa- eler, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, arrived Dhaka on 13 Jan-
ter of the river, being an arm of the Ganges, uary 1666 and met Shaista Khan.[23] He referred Shaista
is extraordinarily good, but is some distance Khan as the uncle of King Aurangzeb and the cleverest
for fetching and carrying for some residents of man in all his kingdom.[23]
the city, the city being not less than 40 English Prince Azim-ush-Shan became the Governor of Bengal
miles in circumference. It is an admirable city in 1697. Due to conict with Diwan Murshid Quli Khan,
4 CHAPTER 1. HISTORY OF DHAKA

he shifted his oce from Dhaka to Patna in 1703.[24][25] and north. He further mentioned, a small but beautiful
Murshid Khan also shifted his oce to Mauksusabad church with a convent in Dhaka. In his words,
(later renamed it to Murshidabad).
This is the chief city in Bengala and the
seat of the principal Nababo or viceroy, ap-
1.5.1 Portuguese settlements pointed by the emperor, who bestowed this
viceroyalty, on several occasions, on one of his
sons. It stands in a wide and beautiful plain on
the banks of the famous and here fructifying
Ganges river, beside which the City stretches
for over a league and a half.[26]

1.6 Nawab era

In 1716 Murshid Quli Khan was made the Governor of
whole Bengal. He became so powerful that he acted
as the de facto independent ruler of the region. The
era continued through Shujauddin Khan (1729 1739),
Sarfaraz Khan (1739 1740), Alivardi Khan (1740
1756) and Sirajuddaula (1756 1757). They were unof-
cially known as Nawabs.[29] They ruled the whole region
from their oces in Murshidabad.

1.6.1 Naib-Nazim of Dhaka

The position of Naib-Nazim (Deputy Governor) was cre-
ated to administer Dhaka Niabat since 1717.[29] They
were appointed by the Governors until Sirajuddaula, the
last independent Governor of Bengal, lost control to the
British in the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Here is a partial
list of Naib-Nazims of Dhaka:[25][30]

Khan Muhammad Ali Khan (1717)

Holy Rosary Church built by Portuguese missionaries in 1677
Itisam Khan (1723 1726)
In Bengal region, the Portuguese made the principal trad-
ing center in Hooghly.[26] They also made small settle- A son of Itisam Khan (1726 1727)
ments in Dhaka in about 1580.[27] Ralph Fitch, an English
Mirza Lutfullah Tabrizi (a grandson-in-law of Mur-
traveler, recorded in 1586 that Portuguese traders were
shid Quli Khan) (1728 1734)
involved in shipping rice, cotton and silk goods.[27] Tav-
ernier mentioned about churches built in Dhaka by Por- Sarfaraz Khan (1734 1739)
tuguese Augustinian missionaries. J.J. Campos, an editor
of Asiatic Society of Bengal, named several Portuguese Galib Ali Khan (1734 1738)
churches in Dhaka - Church of Our Lady of Rosary, Murad Ali Khan (1738 1739)
Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentino, Church of the Holy
Ghost and Church of our Lady Piety.[28] Abdul Fattah Khan (1739 1740)
During the viceroyalty of Shaista Khan, another section Nowazish Mohammad Khan (1740 1754)
of the Portuguese came from Sandwip and Arakan and
settled in Dhaka at a place called Feringhi Bazar.[27] Hossain Quli Khan (1740 1754)
Sebastien Manrique, a Portuguese missionary and trav- Murad Dowlat (1754 1755)
eler, visited Dhaka in September 1640 and spent about 27
Jasarat Khan (1755 1762 and 1765 1778)
days around the area.[26] According to him, the city ex-
tended along the Buriganga river for over four and a half Mohammed Ali (1762 1762)
miles from Maneswar to Narinda and Fulbaria. Christian
communities lived around these suburbs in the west, east, Mohammed Reza Khan (1763 1765)
1.7. BRITISH EAST INDIA COMPANY RULE (17721857)
Ghaziuddin Haider (1834 1843)
The oce of Naib Nazim of Dhaka was ocially abol-
ished in 1843.[29]
1.6.2 Armenian settlements
Armenian Church built in 1781
Main article: Armenian community of Dhaka
The Armenians settled in Dhaka in the early 18th
century.[31] They established trade ties in jute and leather
with Mughals and Nawabs.[32] The Armenian Church
(Church of Holy Resurrection) built in 1781 in Armanitola
area bears the evidence of their presence. Since the
British started ruling Bengal in 1757, Armenians slowly
moved out of this area. The Pogose School, the rst
private school in Dhaka, was founded in the 1830s by
Nicholas Pogose, an Armenian merchant.[33] By 1868,
ve of the six European zamindars in Dhaka were Arme-
nians - Nicholas Pogose, GC Paneati, J Stephan, JT Lucas
and W Harney.[34] As of 2009, Michael Joseph Martin
was the last Armenian living in Dhaka.[33][35]
1.7 British East India Company
rule (17721857)
The English formally established their factories in Dhaka
in 1668.[23] The English traders were already in the city
as early as in 1666 when Tavernier visited.[23] William
Hedges was appointed the rst head of British East India
Company. He arrived Dhaka on 25 October 1681.[36]
The city passed under partial control of the British East
India Company in 1772 after the Battle of Buxar. Per
the Treaty of Allahabad, East India Company was ap-
pointed imperial tax collector of the province Bengal-
Bihar-Orissa by the Mughal emperor. East India com-
pany was still a subject of the Mughal empire. East India
company took complete control in 1793 when Nizamat
5
A Bengali woman wearing muslin in Dhaka in 1789
(Mughal appointed governorship) was abolished. The
city then became known by its anglicized name, Dacca.
Owing to the war, the citys population shrank dramat-
ically in a short period of time.[37] Although an impor-
tant city in the Bengal province, Dhaka remained smaller
than Kolkata, which served as the capital of British India
fora long period of time. Under British rule, many mod-
ern educational institutions, public works and townships
were developed. A modern water supply system was in-
troduced in 1874 and electricity supply in 1878.[38] The
Dhaka Cantonment was established near the city, serv-
ing as a base for the soldiers of the British Indian Army.
Dhaka served as a strategic link to the frontier of the
northeastern states of Tripura and Assam.
Charles D'Oyly was the Collector of Dhaka from 1808
to 1811. He made a good collection of painting folios of
Dhaka in Antiquities of Dacca.[39] These paintings exhib-
ited much of the ruins of Dhaka from the Mughal era.
A short historical account of the paintings was also ap-
pended to each book. James Atkinson wrote these ac-
counts, accompanied by engravings done by Landseer. In
1835 Dhaka College was established as an English School
by the then Civil Surgeon Dr. James Taylor.[40] It got the
college status in 1841. Local Muslim and Hindu students
as well as Armenians and Portuguese were among the rst
graduates.[40]
1.7.1 Rise of Dhaka Nawab Estate
Under the Permanent Settlement of Bengal enactment by
Charles Cornwallis in 1793, the Company government
and the Bengali zamindars agreed to x revenues to be
raised from land.[41] As a result, Dhaka Nawab Estate
grew to become the largest zamindari in Eastern Bengal.
It was founded by Kashmir origin Khwaja Hazullah and
his nephew Khwaja Alimullah.[42] A French trading cen-
ter is converted as the residence of the Dhaka Nawabs in
1830.[43] It was later constructed into a palace and named
Ahsan Manzil. The estate paid Rs 3,20,964 as per agree-
6 CHAPTER 1. HISTORY OF DHAKA
Ahsan Manzil, was built as a palace for Dhaka Nawabs in 1872
ment to the Company government in 1904.[42] In 1952
the Estate was abolished according to the East Bengal Es-
tate Acquisition and Tenancy Act.[42]
1.8 British Raj rule (18581947) chancellor of the university. Ahsanullah School of Engi-
Dhaka in 1859
Lord and Lady Curzon arrived in Fulbaria Railway Station in
1904
Following the Indian Rebellion of 1857, British East In-
dia Companys ruling ended and the British Crown took
direct control of the region in 1858. Dacca Municipality
(later Dhaka City Corporation) was established on Au-
gust 1, 1864.[44] At that time the area of Dhaka was 20.72
square kilometers with a population of around 52,000.[45]
In 1885 railway line between Dhaka and Narayanganj was
built. Mymensingh was connected to Dhaka in 1889.[15]
Lord Curzon arrived Dhaka in 1904 and established
Curzon Hall. In July 1905 he decided to take eect the
Partition of Bengal. Dhaka became the capital of the
new province, Eastern Bengal and Assam, on October 16,
1905.[46] Joseph Bampfylde Fuller entered on his oce
in Dhaka as the rst lieutenant-governor of the region in
January 1906.[47] But the partition was revoked in 1911
and Dhaka became a district town on April 1, 1912.[46]
Eden College was founded in 1880. Narendra Narayan
Roy Choudhury, landlord of the Baldah Estate, built
Baldha Garden in 1909. University of Dhaka was estab-
lished in 1921.[15] Philip Hartog became the rst vice-
neering (now Bangladesh University of Engineering and
Technology) was established in 1912 under the substan-
tial grants and patronage from Dhaka Nawab Family.[48]
1.9 East Bengals (later East Pak-
istans) capital (19471971)
Following the Partition of India in August 1947, Dhaka
became the capital of East Bengal under the Dominion
of Pakistan. The city witnessed serious communal vio-
lence that left thousands of people dead. A large pro-
portion of the citys Hindu population departed for India,
while the city received hundreds of thousands of Mus-
lim immigrants from the Indian states of West Bengal,
Assam and Bihar. Population increased from 335,925 in
1951 to 556,712 in 1961 registering an increase of 65.7
percent.[49][50] As the centre of regional politics, Dhaka
saw an increasing number of political strikes and inci-
dents of violence. The proposal to adopt Urdu as the
sole ocial language of Pakistan led to protest marches
and strikes involving hundreds of thousands of people in
Bengali Language Movement. The protests soon degen-
erated into widespread violence after police ring killed
students who were demonstrating peacefully. Martial law
was imposed throughout the city for a long period of time.
The arrest of the Bengali politician Sheikh Mujibur Rah-
man in 1968 would also spark intensive political protests
and violence against the military regime of Ayub Khan.
The 1970 Bhola cyclone devastated much of the region,
killing numerous people. More than half the city of
Dhaka was ooded and waterlogged, with millions of
people marooned. The same year, Sheikh Mujibur Rah-
man won a landslide victory in general election. He was
1.11. SEE ALSO 7

the new state struggled to cope with the humanitarian

challenges. The year 1975 saw the killing of Sheikh
Mujib and three military coups. The city would see
the restoration of order under military rule, but po-
litical disorder would heighten in the mid-1980s with
the pro-democracy movement led by the Awami League
and the Bangladesh Nationalist Party. Political and stu-
dent strikes and protests routinely disrupted the lives
of Dhakas people. However, the post-independence
period has also seen a massive growth of the popula-
tion, attracting migrant workers from rural areas across
Bangladesh. A real estate boom has followed the devel-
opment of new settlements such as Gulshan, Banani and
Motijheel. In 1985, Dhaka hosted the inaugural sum-
The Shaheed Minar commemorates the Language Movement of mit of the South Asian Association for Regional Coop-
1952 in Dhaka eration. It has also hosted the summits of the D8 group
and the Organisation of the Islamic Conference. In 1983
City Corporation was created to govern Dhaka and its
elected as the next president of Pakistan. However, the population reached 3,440,147 and it covered an area of
West Pakistans military rulers and even the largest op- 400 square kilometers.[45] The city was divided into 75
position partys (PPP) leader Zulker Ali Bhutto refused wards. Under new act in 1993 the rst election was held
to hand over the presidency to East Pakistan leadership. in 1994 and Mohammad Hanif became the rst elected
The following year saw Sheikh Mujib hold a massive na- Mayor of Dhaka.[52] In 2011, Dhaka City Corporation
tionalist gathering on March 7, 1971 at the Race Course was split into two separate corporations - DCC North
Ground that attracted an estimated one million people. and DCC South[53] and in 2015 election Annisul Huq and
Galvanising public anger against ethnic and regional dis- Sayeed Khokon were elected as the mayors of the respec-
crimination and poor cyclone relief eorts from the cen- tive corporations.[54]
tral government, the gathering preceded near total con-
sensus among East Pakistan population for independent As of 2015, Dhaka has an estimated population of more
movement. In response, on March 25, 1971 in the mid- than 15 million people, making it the largest city in
[55]
dle of the night, the Pakistan Army launched Operation Bangladesh and the 16th largest city in the world.
Searchlight, which led to the arrests, torture and killing of
hundreds of thousands of people - just in that night alone.
As a result, on behalf of East Pakistan leader Sheikh Mu- 1.11 See also
jibur Rahman, a Bengali army Major named Ziaur Rah-
man (later General and President) declared Bangladeshs Timeline of Dhaka
independence on March 26, 1971. This resulted in fur-
ther mass genocide of approximately 3 million people.
Citizens and intellectuals from Dhaka was the largest vic- 1.12 References
tim of this mass genocide. The fall of the city to the
Indian Army on December 16, 1971 marked the creation
[1] The city of Dacca viewed painting by De Fabeck Freder-
of the independent state of Bangladesh. Dhaka became ick
the capital of Bangladesh.
[2] Dhaka City Corporation (September 5, 2006). Pre-
Several prominent architectural development took place
Mughal History of Dhaka. Retrieved October 4, 2012.
in Dhaka during this period. Holy Family Hospital was
built in March 1953.[46] New Market was established [3] Mamoon, Muntassir (2010). Dhaka: Smiriti Bismiritir No-
in Azimpur in 1954.[46] Dhaka College was moved to gori. Anannya. p. 94.
Dhanmondi in July 1956.[46] Kamalapur railway station
[4] Kamarupa. Banglapedia. Retrieved 2015-07-24.
was established in 1969.[51]
[5] Allen, B.C. (1912). Eastern Bengal District Gazetteers -
Dhaka. p. 18. ISBN 978-81-7268-194-4. Retrieved
2013-09-18.
1.10 Post-independence of
[6] Pala Dynasty. Banglapedia. Retrieved 2013-03-23.
Bangladesh (1971present)
[7] Sena Dynasty. Banglapedia. Retrieved 2015-07-24.
Despite independence, political turmoil continued to [8] AM Chowdhury. Dhaka. Banglapedia: The Na-
plague the people of Dhaka. The Pakistan Armys op- tional Encyclopedia of Bangladesh, Asiatic Society of
erations had killed or displaced millions of people, and Bangladesh. Retrieved May 26, 2015.
Chapter 2

Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban

Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban or National Parliament used the Old Shangshad Bhaban, which currently serves
House, (Bengali: Jatiy Sngsd as the Prime Ministers Oce.
Bhbn) is the house of the Parliament of Bangladesh,
Construction was started in 1961 when Bangladesh was
located at Sher-e-Bangla Nagar in the Bangladeshi cap- East Pakistan, led by Ayub Khan from the West Pakistan
ital of Dhaka. Designed by architect Louis Kahn, the
capital of Islamabad. As part of his eorts to decrease
complex, is one of the largest legislative complexes in the
the disparity and secessionist tendencies of East Pakistan,
world, comprising 200 acres (800,000 m)[1]
Khan aimed to make Dhaka a second capital, with appro-
The building was featured prominently in the 2003 lm priate facilities for an assembly.[3]
My Architect, detailing the career and familial legacy Jatiyo Sangshad was designed by Louis Kahn. The gov-
of its architect, Louis Kahn. Robert McCarter, author ernment sought assistance from South Asian activist and
of Louis I. Kahn, described the National Parliament of architect Muzharul Islam who recommended bringing in
Bangladesh as one of the twentieth centurys most signif- the worlds top architects for the project. He initially at-
icant buildings.[2] tempted to bring Alvar Aalto and Le Corbusier, who were
both were unavailable at the time. Islam then enlisted his
former teacher at Yale, Louis Kahn.[3]
2.1 History Construction was halted during the 1971 Bangladesh Lib-
eration War and was completed on 28 January 1982.
Kahn died when the project was approximately three-
quarters completed and it continued under David Wis-
dom, who worked for Kahn.[3]

2.2 History of use by Parliament

Seven Parliaments have used the Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban
as the assembly building:

1. Second Parliament: 2 years 11 months (2 April 1979

24 March 1982)

2. Third Parliament: 1 year 5 months (10 July 1986

6 December 1987)

3. Fourth Parliament: 2 years 7 months (15 April 1988

6 December 1990)

4. Fifth Parliament: 4 years 8 months (5 April 1991

24 November 1995)

5. Sixth Parliament: 12 days (19 March 1996 30

March 1996)
Play of light inside the building
6. Seventh Parliament: 5 years (14 July 1996 13 July
Before its completion, the rst and second Parliaments 2001)

10
2.3. ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN
7. Eighth Parliament: 5 years (28 October 2001 27
October 2006)
8. Ninth Parliament: 5 years ( April 2009 4 May
2014) The assembly building received the Aga Khan Award for
Architecture in 1989.[6]
9. Ten Parliament : Running
2.3 Architecture and design
Louis Kahn designed the entire Jatiyo Sangsad complex,
which includes lawns, lake and residences for the Mem-
bers of the Parliament (MPs). The architects key design
philosophy was to represent Bangladeshi culture and her-
itage, while at the same time optimizing the use of space.
The exterior of the building is striking in its simplicity,
with huge walls deeply recessed by porticoes and large
openings of regular geometric shapes. The main build-
ing, which is at the center of the complex, is divided into
three parts the Main Plaza, South Plaza and Presiden-
tial Plaza. An articial lake surrounds three sides of the
main building of Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban, extending to the
Members of Parliament hostel complex. This skillful use
of water to portray the riverine beauty of Bangladesh adds
to the aesthetic value of the site.[4]
2.3.1 Design philosophy
Kahns key design philosophy optimizes the use of space
while representing Bangladeshi heritage and culture. Ex-
ternal lines are deeply recessed by porticoes with huge
openings of regular geometric shapes on their exterior,
shaping the buildings overall visual impact.
In the architect Louis Kahns own words:
In the assembly I have introduced a
light-giving element to the interior of the plan.
If you see a series of columns you can say
that the choice of columns is a choice in light.
The columns as solids frame the spaces of
light. Now think of it just in reverse and think
that the columns are hollow and much bigger
and that their walls can themselves give light,
then the voids are rooms, and the column is
the maker of light and can take on complex
shapes and be the supporter of spaces and give
light to spaces. I am working to develop the
element to such an extent that it becomes a
poetic entity which has its own beauty outside
of its place in the composition. In this way
it becomes analogous to the solid column I
mentioned above as a giver of light.
It was not belief, not design, not pattern,
but the essence from which an institution could
emerge...[5]
11
The lake on three sides of the Bhaban, extending up to the
Members hostel adds to sites aesthetics and also portrays
the riverine beauty of Bangladesh.
2.3.2 The Bhaban (Main Building) design
The Bhaban consists of nine individual blocks: the eight
peripheral blocks rise to a height of 110' while the cen-
tral octagonal block rises to a height of 155'. All nine
blocks include dierent groups of functional spaces and
have dierent levels, inter-linked horizontally and verti-
cally by corridors, lifts, stairs, light courts, and circular
areas.[7] The entire structure is designed to blend into one
single, non-dierentiable unit, that appears from the ex-
terior to be a single story.
The main committee rooms are located at level two in one
of the peripheral blocks. All parliamentary functionaries,
including Ministers and chairpersons of some Standing
Committees, have oces in the Bhaban. The Parliament
Secretariat also occupies oces in the same building.[7]
The Main Plaza
The most important part of the Main Plaza is the Par-
liament Chamber, which can house up to 354 members
during sessions. There are also two podiums and two gal-
leries for VIP visitors. The Chamber has a maximum
height of 117' with a parabolic shell roof. The roof was
designed with a clearance of a single story to let in day-
light. Daylight, reecting from the surrounding walls and
octagonal drum, lters into the Parliament Chamber.[7]
The ecient and aesthetic use of light was a strong ar-
chitectural capability of Louis Kahn.
The articial lighting system has been carefully devised
to provide zero obstruction to the entry of daylight. A
composite chandelier is suspended from parabolic shell
roof. This chandelier in turn consists of a metallic web,
spanning the entire chamber, that supports the individual
light xtures.
Upper levels of the block (that contains the Chamber)
contain the visitor and press galleries, as well as com-
munication booths, all of which overlook the Parliament
Chamber. The block also contains:
at level one, a library;
at level three, MPs lounges; and
at the upper level, party rooms.
12 CHAPTER 2. JATIYO SANGSAD BHABAN

2.4 Tourism and accessibility

Although entrance to the Bhaban, the Main Building, is
limited to authorized members of Parliament and sta,
the Jatiyo Sangshad complex is open to visitors. North of
the complex, across the Lake Road, is Crescent Lake and
Chandrima Uddan . The two complexes together form a
major attraction for tourists in Dhaka. The complexes are
popular among joggers and skaters of Dhaka. The ocial
Prime Ministers Residence is on the North West corner
of the Mirpur Road and Lake Road crossing and is a ve-
minute walk from the Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban. The area
is one of the higher security zones of Dhaka.
The Complex can be accessed using any of the four roads
surrounding it, however, the Manik Mia Avenue and Lake
Road are the easiest approaches.

2.5 Current developments

view of Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban
During the government term that took oce on 28 Octo-
ber 2001, the Government communicated plans to com-
The South Plaza plete Louis Kahns plans by constructing residences for
the Speaker and Deputy Speaker. According to some
The South Plaza faces the Manik Mia Avenue. It gradu- prominent architects, no such plan existed in the origi-
ally rises to a 20' height and serves as a beautiful exterior nal design. Although the construction was started, it was
as well as the main entrance (used by members during halted and the issue is still unresolved.
sessions) to the Parliament Building. It contains:

controlling gates; 2.6 Gallery

a driveway;

a main mechanical plant room;

a large car parking space;
View at sunrise
a telephone exchange;

oces of maintenance engineers;

equipment stores; and

an open plaza with steps and ramps leading directly
to the main building.[7]

Assembly Hall
Presidential Plaza

The Presidential Plaza lies to the North and faces the Lake
Road. It functions as an intimate plaza for the MPs and
other dignitaries. It contains marble steps, a gallery and 2.7 Notes
an open pavement.
[1] Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban. banglapedia.org.
Other information
[2] McCarter, Robert (2005). Louis I. Kahn. London:
Completion date: 1982 Phaidon Press. p. 258,270. ISBN 0-7148-4045-9.

Function: civic [3] Jatiyo Sangsad Bhaban (National Parliament House),

Bangladesh. londoni.co. 2014. Retrieved 28 December
Construction cost: US$32 million[8] 2015.
Chapter 3

Dhakeshwari Temple

Dhakeshwari National Temple (Bengali: - great importance. The original 800-year-old statue was
hakeshshori Jatio Mondir) is a Hindu tem- taken to Kumartuli, Kolkata, West Bengal, India. There
ple in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It is state-owned, giving it remains the replica of original idol in Dhaka. The temple
the distinction of being Bangladeshs 'National Temple'. was further damaged during the Muslim mob attacks of
The name Dhakeshwari ( hakeshshori) means 198990.
Goddess of Dhaka. Since the destruction of Ramna
It is widely believed that the Queen, wife of King Bijoy
Kali Mandir in 1971 by the Pakistan Army during the Sen went to Langolbond for bathing. While coming back
Bangladesh Liberation War, the Dhakeshwari Temple has
she gave birth to a son, known to historians as Ballal Sen.
assumed status as the most important Hindu place of wor- After ascending to the throne, Ballal Sen built this temple
ship in Bangladesh.[1] to glorify his birthplace. Legends say that Ballal Sen once
dreamt of the deity covered under the jungle. Ballal Sen
uncovered the deity from there and built a temple, named
3.1 History for Dhakeswari. Whatever the legends describe, Hindu
religious consider Dhakeswari to be the presiding deity of
Dhaka, which is an incarnation or form of Goddess Durga
the Adi Shakti. The idol of Durga is called Dhakeswari .

3.2 Structure

3.2.1 Exterior view

1890 CE photograph of the four Shiva temples inside the main

temple complex

The Dhakeshwari temple was built in the 12th century by

Ballal Sen, a king of the Sena dynasty, and many say the
city was named after this temple.[2] The current architec-
tural style of the temple cannot be dated to that period be-
cause of the numerous repairs, renovations and rebuild-
ing which have taken place over time. It is considered
an essential part of Dhakas cultural heritage. Many re- Main temple structure
searchers say that the temple is also one of the Shakti
Peethas, where the jewel from the crown of the God- Within the premises of the Dhakeswari there are temples
dess Sati had fallen. Although there is not enough his- of two types of architecture. The ancient one is of the
torical context to establish this as a fact, researchers were Poncharotna Goddess Durgas which lost its actual look
directed to this site while trying to locate the particular after the renovation work. Bradly Bird wrote this at the
Shakti Peetha. Since ages, the temple has been held in beginning of this century. The present temple is two hun-

14
3.3. DECLARATION AS NATIONAL TEMPLE OF BANGLADESH 15

Entrance to the main temple compound

The Goddess statue at the Dhakeshwari Temple

meditate at the temple. Outside the temple there are 5-

6 pagoda with a shiblinga. The priest of Dhakeshawri
temple used pray every day. The deity is doshvuja. It
Main temple structure from the west side is believed that it is made of gold. At the left and right
side of the deity there are some other murti. Like the an-
cient temples its inside is dark. To see the deity light is
dred years old which was built by an agent of East India to be arranged. The temple is owned by many because
Company. Most probably he had renovated the temple. it is bought by the new caretaker from the old caretak-
Other than this there are four Shib Temples. According ers. Jotindramohan bought it in 1901. Dhakeshawri is
to hearsay, in the 16th century King Mansing built these crowded but it is an abode of peace. The low sound of the
temples by laying four Shib Lingas there. But this in- tongue mixes with the evening light and tune of temple
formation seems to be unreliable. The fusion of Bangla bell and make the peaceful environment a happy event.
chowchala and shikor temple is notice in the architec-
ture of Dhakeshawri. Ratan Lal Chakraborti in an article
mentioned that the structure and architecture of it is 3.3 Declaration as National Temple
like a Buddhist Pagoda. From this he assumed that the
temple was probably built in the 10th century. of Bangladesh
How did Dhakeshari temple look like in the 19th century?
Ridoynath Majumder described about the temple. At that In 1996, Dhakeshwari Temple was renamed Dhakesh-
time the temple was covered by jungle and in its north wari Jatiya Mandir (National Temple) reecting its po-
the Urdu road went westward towards Pilkhana and at its sition as the center of Hindu culture and worship in
south west was Mirpur road. At its south there was a woodBangladesh.[3] This was the culmination of a major cam-
and Urdu bazar was at the east. paign by Bangladeshi Hindu groups who had been de-
manding ocial recognition for the primary Hindu place
of worship following the declaration of Islam as the state
3.2.2 Interior view religion in 1988. As a result, the ag of Bangladesh is
hoisted every morning outside the main temple premises,
The temple was panchoratno, at its front Natamandir and and it follows the National Flag Code rules such as render-
around it there is a row of rooms and a big pond and na- ing half-mast on nationally declared days of mourning.
hobottola gate through which elephant used to go. At its As is the practice in other leading religious places of wor-
east there are tombs of some saints who used to pray or ship in Bangladesh, day-long prayers are common prac-
16
tice during important national holidays such as Indepen-
dence Day, Language Martyrs Day, Victory Day and
birth and death anniversaries of former leaders such as
Sheikh Mujibur Rahman and Ziaur Rahman.
3.4 Threats to temple security
The Dhakeshwari Temple was severely damaged during
the 1971 Bangladesh Liberation War, and over half of
the temples buildings were destroyed. The main worship
hall was taken over by the Pakistan Army and used as an
ammunitions storage area. Several of the temple custo-
dians were tortured and killed by the Army though most,
including the Head Priest, ed to their ancestral villages Dhakeshwari Temple (1904), Photograph taken by Fritz Kapp.
then to India and therefore escaped death.
A signicant portion of the temple land has been lost
due to the Vested Property Act and conscation by the
Bangladesh Government, and the current premises are
considerably lower than the historic reach of the prop-
erty. Muslim mobs have attacked the temple complex
many times,[4] with the last major attack taking place in
December 1992.
3.5 Religious and socio-cultural ac-
tivities
Durga puja celebrations in Dhakeshwari Temple
Dhakeshwari Temple is a hub of socio-cultural as well
as religious activity. Each year, the largest celebration
of Durga Puja (the most important event in the Bengali
Hindu calendar) in Dhaka is held at the National Tem-
ple, and a stream of dignitaries (such as the Bangladeshi
President, Prime Minister, Leader of Opposition, Mem-
bers of Parliament and media celebrities) come to felic-
itate the Bangladeshi Hindu community from the temple
premises. Several thousand worshippers and onlookers
(including Muslims) stream through the premises where
they are oered prasad (food - usually rice and lentils).
CHAPTER 3. DHAKESHWARI TEMPLE
A Bijaya Sammelani (cultural program following Durga
Puja) takes place in the adjoining parade ground a few
days after Durga Puja is complete, and is also a major
cultural event in the Dhaka calendar, regularly attracting
some of the top performers from the Dhaka music and
lm industry.
One of the most important events of the year is the
Janmashthami procession which starts from Dhakesh-
wari temple and then proceeds through the streets of Old
Dhaka;[5] this occurs on the day of Lord Krishna's birth-
day, which is also a public holiday in Bangladesh and
second only to Durga Puja in importance in the Bengali
calendar. The procession dates back to 1902 but was
stopped in 1948 following the establishment of Pakistan
and subsequent attacks by Muslim mobs in Dhaka. The
procession was resumed in 1989.
Concerts and charity drives (such as ood relief) are also
a regular xture within the temple throughout the year.
Each year, Dhakeshwari Temple hosts major blood drives
and inoculation programs which are open to all residents
of Dhaka city.
At the old time, festivals happened on the month of
Chaitra in temple complex of Dhakeswari. This place
was crowded by various colored shops. Virtous people
used to visit the temple to gather religious merit and get
back to their home. Millions of Hindu religious people
would take bath at Langolbondon on the month of Choitra
on Sukla Ostomi time to get rid of their sins. People in
huge numbers used to come to Dhakeswari temple on foot
from dierent roads to be blessed by the deity Durga. It
was the best moment of their whole year. With great hope
they would come out from their home, and it was reected
on their faces, to get rid of their sins by worshiping the
Deity with exclusive devotion and bowing their head to
meditation of Bhagaban. They forget about everything-
hunger, sleep, restlessness - and they just believe that they
will be blessed and they step up for the temple. All those
people were divided into small groups with each group
having ten to twenty people. The groups consisted of
3.8. SEE ALSO 17

mainly women, only one man, who is the oldest of the vil-
lage, was there for taking care of them. They came from
very long distance by forming groups. People of dierent
ages, including the oldest and skinniest, were also gath-
ered with these groups. Young people from the nearest
city to the temple volunteering for the people would come
from long distance to be blessed by the Deity, with a great
concentration, eagerness to the worship of the Deity and
often bowing by shouting Oom Dhaka eswari.
In present days, each year, the largest celebration of National Temple complex, 360 degree view. May. 2015
Durga puja (the most important event in the Bengali
Hindu calendar) in Dhaka is held at the National Tem-
ple, and a stream of dignitaries come to felicitate
the Bangladeshi Hindu community from the temple 3.8 See also
premises. Several thousand worshippers and onlookers
(including Muslims) stream through the premises where Hinduism in Bangladesh
they are oered prasad (food - usually rice and lentils).
A Bijaya Sammilan (a cultural program following Durga Architecture of Bangladesh
Puja) takes place in the adjoining parade ground a few Kantajew Temple
days after Durga Puja is complete, and is also a major cul-
tural event in the Dhaka calendar. Durga Puja comes to Ramna Kali Mandir
an end after ve days, through the celebration of Bijoya
Shahbaz Khan Mosque
Dashami after performing the sacred rituals of Sashthi,
Saptami, Ashtami and Navami. Bijoya Dashami will end Shona Mosque
with the idols of Durga and her four children Lakshmi,
Saraswati, Kartik and Ganesha taken in processions for Bagha Mosque
immersion in river or sea. A processions starts from the Dhamrai Jagannath Roth
temple.[6]
Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque
Sixty Dome Mosque
3.6 Present condition
Saat Masjid
It was severely damaged during the 1971 Bangladesh Lib- Lalbagh Fort
eration War, and over half of the temples buildings were
destroyed. The main worship hall was taken over by the
Pakistan Army and used as an ammunitions storage area. 3.9 References
Several of the temple custodians were tortured and killed
by the Army though most, including the Head Priest, [1] Dhakeshwari Temple. banglapedia.org.
ed to their ancestral villages and to India and therefore
escaped death. After that everything was destroyed of [2] News Agency. Modi visits Dhakeshwari temple, Indian
Dhakeswari temple at the time of riot on rule of Ershad chancery in Dhaka. zeenews.india.com. Zee Media Cor-
president of Bangladesh at 1990 except the outer slough. poration Ltd. Retrieved 12 June 2015.

Prime Minister of India Narendra Modi prayed at the [3] IANS (7 June 2015). Modi visits Dhakeshwari temple,
temple during his ocial visit to Bangladesh on 7 June Ramakrishna Mission in Dhaka. thehindu.com. Chennai,
2015. He was given a model of the goddess Dhakeshwari India: The Hindu. Retrieved 12 June 2015.
by the temple authorities.[7] [4] Hamill, Jim (30 April 2015). 72 Hours in Dhaka. hu-
ingtonpost.com. TheHungtonPost.com, Inc. Retrieved
12 June 2015.
3.7 Gallery [5] Sta Correspondent. Janmashtami today. thedai-
lystar.net. thedailystar.net. Retrieved 12 June 2015.
Dhakeswari Temple [6] Sta Correspondent. Bijoya Dashami today. thedai-
lystar.net. The Daily Star. Retrieved 12 June 2015.
Deity Durga
[7] PTI. PM Narendra Modi visits Dhakeshwari temple in
Shib Temples Bangladesh. economictimes.indiatimes.com. Times In-
ternet Limited. Retrieved 12 June 2015.
Main Entrance
Chapter 4

Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque

Warning: Page using Template:Infobox religious build- the main mosque is open in all directions allowing air to
ing with unknown parameter year (this message is ow and keep the Musullis cool.[1]
shown only in preview).

The Khan Mohammad Mirza Mosque on Lalbagh 4.2 Architecture and architect
road is situated less than half a kilometre west of the
Lalbagh Fort. Two Persian inscriptions, one over the
central archway and the other over the central Mihrab,
speak of its construction during 170405 AD by one
Khan Muhammad Mirza.[lower-alpha 1]
The large platform is 38.10 m from north to south and
28.96 m from east to west. Its height is about 5.18 m from
the ground level. Underneath the platform are vaulted
rooms on all sides except the eastern side. In the east-
ern side, there is a stairway which ends with a gateway
aligning the central doorway of the mosque proper. It is
through this gateway that one can reach the top of the
platform.

4.1 Origins and inspiration The domes on the mosque

The main mosque where the Imam and a few Musullis are
accommodated consists of three domes bears testimony
of the architecture practiced during the sixteenth century.
Two Persian inscriptions, one over the central archway
and the other over the central Mihrab. According to an
inscription found, the mosque was built during the rule
of Deputy Governor of Dhaka, Farrukh Siyar, by a Khan
Muhammad Mirza, who could have been the architect.
The construction was orders by a Qazi Ibadullah during
170405 AD. [2]
The platform is 16'6 above the ground level. The
tahkhana comprises vaulted rooms for living purposes.
The mosque is accessed from the east, up a ight of
twenty-ve steps. Area wise, the mosque occupies only a
Mahomed Mosque at Dhaka (1885). small portion of the platform.
Khan Mohammad Mirza mosque, an archaeological site
located in southern Dhaka, near Lalbagh fort. The
mosque rises above its surroundings because the tahkhana 4.3 Prayer Hall
or underground rooms of the mosque are above grade.
The roof of the tahkhana forms the platform on which The prayer hall is a rectangular structure measuring 48'
the mosque is situated. The spacious prayer place before x 24' and is capped by three domes, the central being

18
4.6. LOCATION AND OWNERSHIP
the larger one. The smaller sizes of the side domes are
achieved by using intermediary pendentives. The cor-
ners minarets are short and slender, rising just above the
parapet and are capped by ribbed copulas. The annex
to the north of the mosque serves as a madrasa or reli-
gious school and has a hujra or arcaded hall that is used
for travelers and visitors. The facade of the mosque is
decorated with paneling and ornamental merlons along
the parapet. The entrances to the prayer hall are framed
by multi-cusped arches and engaged columns on either
side.[3]
4.4 Interior
Tomb in front of the mosque
The interior is divided into three bays by two lateral
arches. Each bay contains a mihrab that is marked by
multi-cusped arch within a rectangular panel.
4.5 Gardens
Various kinds of seasonal owers are cultivated in the gar-
den at the eastern portion making the compound a sight
for sore eyes. A Mali appointed by Department of Ar-
chaeology is in charge of the upkeep of the garden. A
well in the northern portion of the garden once used for
supplying water for Ozu a way of becoming fresh be-
fore prayer is now abandoned. In the southern side of the
garden stands a tall, old palm tree bearing the symbol of
ancient for the place.[4]
19
4.6 Location and ownership
This ancient structure can be beheld at 150 meter west
on the road that goes beside Lalbag fort. The mosque
being an architectural site of Dhaka city is also used as
a mosque. Mutawalli of the mosque says, Though the
mosque is owned by the government as an archeological
site and is being supervised by the Department of Arche-
ology under Ministry of Cultural aairs there is lack of
sincerity and transparency in the government interven-
tion.
4.7 Restoration and controversies
In 1913 the Archaeological Survey of India listed Mirzas
Masjid as a historic monument; by then it had under-
gone alterations and appropriations that had to be de-
molished to restore it to its original form. The earli-
est photograph available on the mosque shows a ruined
structure at the turn of the nineteenth century just be-
fore this early restoration attempt. Thereafter both the
DOA and mosque committee have undertaken periodic
repairs, some of which ignored the architectural and his-
toric importance of the building. To compensate for the
damaged drains and stop further deterioration the author-
ity provided new outlets to drain rainwater out from the
upper terrace (sahn); and improved water and sanitation
services. The site experienced many encroachments that
constricted the boundaries of the compound, which drew
serious attention of the architects and other conservation
enthusiasts when it was included as a case study in an
architectural conservation workshop in 1989 in Dhaka,
sponsored by the AKTC and UNDP. [5]
4.8 Conservation and criticism
Conservation of invaluable heritage sites in the 400-year-
old city of Dhaka has always been ignored, leading to de-
struction of the sites. Destruction of heritage sites and
historical monuments started during Pakistan period on
a moderate scale but it gained momentum after indepen-
dence. Heritage properties suered destruction in an ap-
palling extent during military rule. According to conser-
vationist architects, friezes and other ornamental features
of the old buildings are replaced with dissimilar and odd-
looking features. Details of the ornamental works, their
sizes and proportions are lost in the intervention. Ac-
cording to conservationist architects, friezes and other or-
namental features of the old buildings are replaced with
dissimilar and odd-looking features. Details of the orna-
mental works, their sizes and proportions are lost in the
intervention. Though the Bangladesh National Building
Code (BNBC), the Metropolitan Building Rules of 2006
(revised in 2008) and the Antiquities Act of 1968 require
the government to take measures and institute a standing
Chapter 5

Lalbagh Fort

Lalbagh Fort (also Fort Aurangabad) is an incom-

plete 17th century Mughal fort complex that stands before
the Buriganga River in the southwestern part of Dhaka,
Bangladesh.[1] The construction was started in 1678 AD
by Mughal Subahdar Muhammad Azam Shah who was
son of Emperor Aurangzeb and later emperor himself.
His successor, Shaista Khan, did not continue the work,
though he stayed in Dhaka up to 1688.

5.1 History

1814 painting of the fort by Charles D'Oyly

Photograph of the south gate in 1875

South gate of the fort painted by Johan Zoany in 1787

Mughal prince Muhammad Azam, third son of Au- Murshidabad. After the end of the royal Mughal period,
rangzeb started the work of the fort in 1678 during the fort became abandoned. In 1844, the area acquired
his vice-royalty in Bengal. He stayed in Bengal for 15 its name as Lalbagh replacing Aurangabad, and the fort
months. The fort remained incomplete when he was became Lalbagh Fort.[3]
called away by his father Aurangzeb.
Shaista Khan was the new subahdar of Dhaka in that time,
and he did not complete the fort. In 1684, the daughter of 5.2 Structures
Shaista Khan named Iran Dukht Pari Bibi died there. Af-
ter her death, he started to think the fort as unlucky, and For long the fort was considered to be a combination of
left the structure incomplete.[2] Among the three major three buildings (the mosque, the tomb of Bibi Pari and
parts of Lalbagh Fort, one is the tomb of Pari Bibi. the Diwan-i-Aam), with two gateways and a portion of
After Shaista Khan left Dhaka, it lost its popularity. The the partly damaged fortication wall. Recent excava-
main cause was that the capital was moved from Dhaka to tions carried out by the Department of Archaeology of

21
22 CHAPTER 5. LALBAGH FORT

isting in ruins in the heritage of Bangladesh.[5]

Recent excavations (19942009) show that there was a
special room below the room of Hammamkhana, where
archeologists found the arrangements for heating water,
supplying the hot water as well as cool water to the Ham-
mamkhana through the terracotta pipes which was spe-
cially manufactured for such purpose. The discovery of
black spots in the underground room proof that re had
been used for the purpose of heating the water for the
Hammamkhana. There was also a toilet room by the side
of Hammamkhana.[5]
All the building along with the arrangements of Ham-
mamkhana clearly shows that it was very much in use
by the Subadar of Bengal and that Subadar was Shaista
Photograph of the south gate taken by Fritz Kapp in 1904 Khan. From the report of the Governor of English Fac-
tory it was learned that Shaista Khan used to live in this
room and some Europeans were kept in custody here.[6]
Bangladesh have revealed the existence of other struc-
tures.
The southern fortication wall has a huge bastion in the 5.2.2 A water tank
southwestern corner. On the north of the south forti-
cation wall were the utility buildings, stable, administra- A square shaped water tank (71.63m on each side) is
tion block, and its western part accommodated a beautiful placed to the east of the Diwan-i-Aam. There are four
roof-garden with arrangements for fountains and a water corner stairs to descend into the tank.[1]
reservoir. The residential part was located on the east of
the west fortication wall, mainly to the southwest of the
mosque.
5.2.3 Tomb of Bibi Pari
The fortication wall on the south had ve bastions at reg-The tomb of Bibi Pari, the daughter of Shaista Khan, is
ular intervals two stories in height, and the western wall in the middle of the complex. There is a central square
had two bastions; the biggest one is near the main south- room. It contains the remains of Bibi Pari covered by a
ern gate. The bastions had an underground tunnel. false octagonal dome and wrapped by brass plate.[1] The
The central area of the fort is occupied by three build- entire inner wall is covered with white marble. Eight
ings - the Diwan-i-Aam and the hammam on its east, the rooms surround the central one. There[1]is another small
Mosque on the west and the Tomb of Pari Bibi in be- grave in the southeastern corner room.
tween the two - in one line, but not at an equal distance.
A water channel with fountains at regular intervals con-
nects the three buildings from east to west and north to
5.2.4 Lalbagh Fort Mosque
[1]
south.
5.3 Some views of the fort
5.2.1 Diwani-i-Aam
Diwan-i-Aam is a two storied residence of the Mughal
governor of Bengal located on the east site of the
complex.[4] A single storied hammam is attached on its
west. The hammam portion has an underground room

for boiling water. A long partition wall runs along the
western facade of the hammam.[1]
The building is situated about 39 meters (136) to the west
of the tank, running from north to south. The external
measurements of the building are 32.47m x 8.18m (107 5.4 Stories
x 29).[5]
There are living quarters on each level of two stories and From the time of construction till date, various myths
a main central hallway connecting them. There is a Ham- have revolved around the fort. Among all the historical
mamkhana (Bathhouse) in the southern part of the build- stories and debates, it is widely believed that Lalbagh Fort
ing which is one of the seventh Hammamkhana still ex- stands as a monument of the unfullled dreams of Prince
5.8. FURTHER READING 23

Muhammad Azam, beloved son of Emperor Aurangzeb. [5] The Archaeological Heritage of Bangladesh. Asiatic So-
In the mid 17th century, he was serving as the Viceroy ciety of Bangladesh. Nov 2011. p. 589
of Bengal and began the construction of the impressive
[6] The Archaeological Heritage of Bangladesh. Asiatic So-
Lalbagh Fort complex. ciety of Bangladesh. Nov 2011. p. 597
Therefore, the popular stories about the fort begin. Be-
[7] the Archeological heritage of bangladesh. asiatic society
fore the construction was nished, Prince Azam was
of bangladesh. Nov 2011. p. 592.
called back to his father, to assist in the war against the
Marathas. Legend says after the Mughal prince departed, [8] the Archeological heritage of bangladesh. asiatic society
Shaista Khan continued with building the project, but of bangladesh. Nov 2011. p. 593.
upon the untimely death of his much-loved daughter Iran-
Dukht, warmly known as Pari Bibi, the construction was
stopped. Bibi was engaged to Prince Azam at the time of 5.8 Further reading
her death.
There are also legends and debates about the identity of Lalbagh Fort by Bangladesh Tourism Directory
Pari Bibi. Few researchers claim she was a nine-year-old
Ahom princess. Mir Jumals Ahoms expedition brought Lalbagh Fort by Our Dhaka City
a war adjoining the Garo hills. He took the daughter
of Ahom Raja to compel him for the full execution of
the previous peace treaty. Later, the emperor made her
convert to Islam and married her o to prince Azam.
However, overshadowing all the debates, people now be-
lieve that she was the loving daughter of Nawab Shaista
Khan.[7]

5.5 Important facts

Archeologists after a recent excavation discover conti-
nuity of the main fort walls towards east below Shaishta
Khan Road and opine that the present area of Qilla only
represents half portion as planned by Prince Azam Khan.
The gate at south-east of Fort (adjacent to Lalbagh Shahi
Masjid) as per requirement ts properly as the Central
Gate in the middle of Fort, the other half on east- likely
planned for administrative purpose (Girde Qilla area)-
were incomplete or extinct long ago.[8]

5.6 See also

History of Dhaka

5.7 References
[1] Rahman, Habibur (2012). Lalbagh Fort. In Islam, Sir-
ajul; Jamal, Ahmed A. Banglapedia: National Encyclo-
pedia of Bangladesh (Second ed.). Asiatic Society of
Bangladesh.

[2] Sayid Aulad Hasan (1903). Extracts from the Notes on the
Antiquities of Dacca. Published by the author. p. 5.

[3] The Archaeological Heritage of Bangladesh. Asiatic So-

ciety of Bangladesh. Nov 2011. p. 586.

[4] The Archaeological Heritage of Bangladesh. Asiatic So-

ciety of Bangladesh. Nov 2011. p. 586
Chapter 6
Star Mosque
Warning: Page using Template:Infobox religious build-
ing with unknown parameter renovation (this message
is shown only in preview).
Warning: Page using Template:Infobox religious build-
ing with unknown parameter year (this message is
shown only in preview).
Star Mosque (Bengali: ; also known as
Tara Masjid), is a mosque located in Armanitola area,
Dhaka, Bangladesh. The mosque has ornate designs and
is decorated with motifs of blue stars. It was built in the
rst half of the 19th century by Mirza Golam Pir (Mirza
Ahmed Jan).[1]
6.1 Historical background
Star Mosque was rst built by Mirza Ghulam Pir, as a
three domed oblong edice. But an over enthusiastic 6.2.1
and zealous merchant named Ali Jan Bepari completely
remodeled and reconstructed it with extremely delicate
and richly colored tiles of variegated patterns. Ali Jan
has added the new verandah, that is mentioned in the in-
troduction, on the east and spent lavishly on importing
Japanese and English decorated China clay tiles to im-
prove the inner and outer show of the mosque. It is now
a ve domed structure. In 1987, two domes have been
raised on an extension to the northern side without any
respect to its antiquity, architectural style and decoration.
6.2 Architecture
Built in the Mughal style by Mirza Ghulam in the late
18th century, this mosque was originally a simple rect-
angular mosque, measuring 33' x 11' with three door-
ways on the east faade (main faade) and one on the
north wall and another on the south wall. Three domes
crowned the mosque, the central one being the larger.
Towers accented the corners and the faades displayed
plastered panel decoration. In early 20th century, Ali Jan
Bepari nanced its renovation when a front verandah was
added. The surface was redone in Chini Tikri, a pop-
24
ular broken china decoration. The mosque is one of the
very few examples of exclusive chinitikri mosaic, found
in the striking blue star mosaic, which gave the mosque its
name Star Mosque. In 1987, the prayer hall was extended
by the Department of Architecture to include two more
domes.[2] It was decorated with imported china clay tiles
and used both methods of applying chinitikri and used
solid color, cur clay tiles and formed patterns by placing
the colored tiles in white plaster. The domes and the exte-
rior are covered with dierent colored star shaped china
clay tiles. The upper portion of the eastern faade also in-
corporates a crescent motif. The work assumed another
texture by using assorted glazed tiles on the interior. The
three mibrabs and the doorways are decorated with mo-
saic oral pattern. A plant and vase motif is repeated as a
decorative element on the pendantive and the interior of
the verandah wall.
Exterior decoration
A 1967 image of the mosque
In early 20th century, Ali Jan Bepari, a local business-
man, nanced the renovation of the mosque and added a
new eastern verandah. The surface was redecorated with
Chinitikri work (mosaic work of broken China porce-
lain pieces), a decorative style that was popular during
the 1930s. The mosque, which previously lacked any
historical signicance, is one of the few remaining ar-
chitectural example of the Chinitikri (Chinese pieces)
method of mosaic decoration. This decorative technique
6.4. EXTERNAL LINKS 25

is found in the striking star motif that is in part the rea-
son for the mosques current acclaim and popular name,
Star Mosque or Sitara Masjid. In 1987, the Ministry of
Religious Aairs commissioned Giasul Huque and Za-
hiruddin Zahiruddin to make additions to the prayer hall,
which was extended to include two more domes.
Hasan, Syed Mahmudul. 1981. Dacca: The City of
Mosques. Dhaka: Islamic Foundation, 46.
Imamuddin, Abu H. 1993. Architectural Conser-
vation Bangladesh: Asiatic Society of Bangladesh,
239.

The mosque is decorated with Japanese and English china
clay tiles and utilized both methods of the Chinitikri ap-
plication. One approach uses solid color, cut clay tiles
and form patterns through the placement of these colored
tiles in white plaster. The domes and the exterior surface
are covered with dierent colored star shaped China clay
tiles. The upper portion of the eastern faade also incor-
porates a crescent motif.
6.2.2 Interior decoration
6.4 External links
Rahman, Mahbubur. 2009. Old but new :: new but
old : architectural heritage conservation: UNESCO,
339.
ABM, Hussain. 2007. The Archaeological Her-
itage of Bangladesh. Dhaka: Asiatic Society of
Bangladesh.
Ahmed, Sharif Uddin. 1991. Dhaka Past Present
Future. Dhaka: Asiatic Society of Bangladesh.
A photo blog post on Tara Mosjid /Star Mosque in
Kothay

Interior of the mosque

Chinitikri tile work assumes another texture by using as-

sorted pieces of dierent designs of glazed tiles on the
interior surfaces of the mosque. The three mihrabs and
the doorways are decorated with mosaic oral pattern. A
plant and vase motif is repeated as a decorative element
on the pendentives as well as on the interior of the veran-
dah wall. As a decorative element, the Japanese Fujiyama
motif, is found on the surface between the doors.

6.3 References
[1] Begum, Ayesha (2012). Star Mosque. In Islam, Sirajul;
Jamal, Ahmed A. Banglapedia: National Encyclopedia of
Bangladesh (Second ed.). Asiatic Society of Bangladesh.

[2] http://www.bangladesh.com/religious-sites/star-mosque/

Haque, Enamul. 1983. Islamic Art Heritage of

Bangladesh. Dhaka: Bangladesh National Museum,
98.

Ahmed, Nazimuddin. 1984. Discover the Monu-

ments of Bangladesh. Dhaka: University Press Lim-
ited, 181.
Chapter 7

Armenian Church (Dhaka)

The Armenian Church (also known as Armenian 7.2 Architecture

Apostolic Church of the Holy Resurrection)[1] is a
historically signicant architectural monument situated
in the Armanitola area of old Dhaka, Bangladesh. The
church bears testimony to the existence of a signicant
Armenian community in the region in the 17th and 18th
centuries.

7.1 History

Following the domination of their homeland by Persian

powers of the time, Armenians were sent by their new
rulers to the Bengal region for both political and eco-
nomic reasons. Although the Armenian presence in
South Asia is now insignicant, their presence in Dhaka
dates back to the 17th century.[2] Armenians came to
Dhaka for business. In Dhaka, Armenian merchants
traded in jute and leather, and protability in these
businesses convinced some to move permanently to
Bangladesh.[3] The area where they lived became known
as Armanitola.[4]
In 1781 the now famous Armenian Church was built on
Armenian Street in Armanitola, then a thriving business
district. The site was an Armenian graveyard before
the church was built, and the tombstones that have sur-
vived serve as a chronicle of Armenian life in the area.[3]
Agaminus Catachik, an Armenian, gave away the land
to build the church. Michel Cerkess, Okotavata Setoor Armenian Church, 2008
Sevorg, Aga Amnius, and Merkers Poges helped build the
church. The church is 750 feet (230 m) in length. It has 4 doors,
In the fty years following the churchs construction, a 27 windows. The main oor is divided into three parts:
clock tower was erected on its western side. Allegedly, a pulpit enclosed by railings, a middle section with two
the clock could be heard four miles away, and people folding doors, and an area separated by a wooden fence
synchronised their watches with the sound of the towers for seating. There is a spiral staircase into the second oor
bell. The clock stopped in 1880, and an earthquake de- of the church. Beside of this there was a watch house. It
stroyed the tower in 1897.[2] The Armenian played a was built by johans paru piyete sarkis. The house broke
prominent part in the jute trade in Dhaka and are reputed down by an earth quake in 1897. There was a square
to be the pioneers of that trade in the second half of the tower in between the church. A shonkhonill special type
19th century.Today, the last Armenian that takes cares of of minar used in India to show respect minar was on the
the church is Mikel Housep Martirossian (Micheal Joseph top of that. The corridor of the church is 14 feet wide.
Martin).[5][6] He was also one of the Armenian who was There is beautiful paintings in the church, it was done by
in the jute trade. the artist charles port. There is a room behind the pulpit

26
7.6. REFERENCES 27

used for baptism, with a 3 foot deep marble baptismal 7.6 References
font.
Muntasir Mamun: When Colonel Davidson was in
Dhaka; Dhaka, 1991.
7.3 Modern use Muntasir Mamun: Dhaka Smriti Bsmritir Nogory;
Dhaka, 1993.
Mother Teresa stayed in the church compound during a
1996 visit to Dhaka.[7] Kabir, Ihtisham (16 March 2007). Exploring Old
Dhaka by Bicycle. Star Weekend Magazine. The
In the old graveyard, amongst the 350 people buried
Daily Star.
there, a statue stands at the grave of Catachik Avatik
Thomas, portraying his wife. The statue was bought from
Kolkata and the grave is inscribed with the words Best
of Husband.[1] 7.7 External links
Today, the church is usually closed. It has been the sub-
A photo blog on Armenian Church in Kothay
ject of BBC and AFP documentaries. It has been rec-
ognized as a heritage site under the jurisdiction of the
Department of Archaeology, Bangladesh.[8]

7.4 See also

Armenian architecture

Armenian Apostolic Church

Christianity in Bangladesh

7.5 Notes
[1] Kabir, Tasneem Tayeb (23 December 2011). The Arme-
nian Church: Legacy of a Bygone Era. The Independent.
Dhaka. Retrieved 27 March 2012.

[2] Ali, Ansar; Chaudhury, Sushil; Islam, Sirajul (2012).

Armenians, The. In Islam, Sirajul; Jamal, Ahmed A.
Banglapedia: National Encyclopedia of Bangladesh (Sec-
ond ed.). Asiatic Society of Bangladesh.

[3] Lawson, Alastair (10 January 2003). The mission of

Dhakas last Armenian. BBC. Retrieved 3 May 2012.

[4] http://www.lonelyplanet.com/bangladesh/dhaka/sights/
religious/armenian-church-holy-resurrection

[5] http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/2645617.
stm

[6] http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/2645617.stm

[7] Ahmed, Iftekhar (2012). Case Studies of Informal Her-

itage Mangemnt in Old Dhaka. A Study of Architectural
Heritage Management by the Informal Community Bodies
in Traditional Neighborhoods of Old Dhaka (PDF) (PhD).
National University of Singapore. p. 391. Retrieved 6
June 2015. During her visit to Dhaka in 1996, Mother
Teresa also stayed in the Church compound

[8] Govt to preserve historic religious places: Minister. The

Independent. Dhaka. Retrieved 7 February 2016.
Chapter 8
Ahsan Manzil
Ahsan Manzil (Bengali: , Ahsan Monjil) 1757, the French left the trading house with a eet of 35
was the ocial residential palace and seat of the Dhaka
Nawab Family.[1] This magnicent building is situated
at Kumartoli along the banks of the Buriganga River in
Dhaka, Bangladesh. The construction of this palace was
started in 1859 and was completed in 1872.[1] It was con-
structed in the Indo-Saracenic Revival architecture. It has
been designated as a national museum.
8.1 History
In Mughal era, there was a garden house of Sheikh Enayet
Ullah, the landlord of Jamalpur porgona (district), in this
place. Sheikh Enayet Ullah was a very charming person.
He acquired a very big area in Kumortuli (Kumartuli) and
included it in his garden house. Here he built a beautiful
palace and named it Rongmohol (Rangmahal). He used
to enjoy here keeping beautiful girls collected from the
country and abroad, dressing them with gorgeous dresses
and expensive ornaments. There is a saying that, the fou-
jdar of Dhaka (representative of mughal emperor) in that
time was attracted to one of the beautiful girls among
them. He invited Sheikh Enayet Ullah in a party one
night and killed him in a conspiracy when he was return-
ing home. That girl also committed suicide in anger and
sorrow. There was a grave of Sheikh Enayet Ullah in the
north-east corner of the palace yard which was ruined in
the beginning of the 20th century.
Probably in the period of Nawab Alibardi Khan around
1740 century, Sheikh Moti Ullah, the son of Sheikh
Enayet Ullah, sold the property to the French traders.
There was a French trading house beside this property.
The trading house became wealthier after purchasing this
property. In that time, French traders could do business
here without paying any taxes by a decree from the em-
peror Awrangajeb. In that time, the French became very
wealthy by doing business here in competition with the
English and other European companies. They made a big
palace and dug a pond for sweet water in the newly pur-
chased property. The pond still exists in the compound of
Ahsan Manjil which was called Les Jalla in that time.
In the English-French war, French got defeated and all
their properties were captured by the English. On 22 June
28
boats from the river station of Buriganga in front of Ku-
martuli.
In 1785, the French transferred the property to a French
tradesman named Mr. Champigni, and retaken it at
1801. According to Paris agreement of 1814, the French
claimed all their left properties at Dhaka, and in 1827 the
property was again returned to the French. For the in-
creasing power of the English, the French was forced to
left subcontinent. They decided to sell all their properties
in Dhaka. So in 1830, the trading house of Kumartuli was
purchased by the established landlord of Dhaka Khwaja
Alimullah.
After some renovation work, the trading house became
the residence of Khwaja Alimullah. In his time, a stable
and a family mosque was added in the compound. Af-
ter his death, his son Khwaja Abdul Gani made a great
ourish to the property, and named it Ahsan Manjil on
his son Ahsan Ullah. In the east side of the old build-
ing, he made a new building with a dierent design, and
also done great renovation work to the old building. Since
then, the old building was called Ondor Mohol and the
new building was called Rong mohol.
In the evening of 7 April 1888, a devastating tornado
hit Dhaka city causing great damage. Ahsan Manjil was
severely damaged and abandoned. An English engineer
from Kolkata arrived here to examine the palace. He gave
opinion that except for the Rangmahal, all the other
parts of the palace would have to be reconstructed. So
Khwaja Abdul Gani and his son Ahsanullah turned their
full attention to rebuild the palace. Both of the buildings
were reconstructed during that time with a new design and
supervised by the local engineer Gobinda Chandra Roy.
The old French building was reconstructed to a two sto-
ried building keeping similarity to the Rangmahal. A
gangway was made with wood connecting the rst oors
of the two buildings. The most beautiful thing made in
this time was the dome, which made the palace so beau-
tiful.
After the death of Khwaja Ahsanullah in 1901, the glory
of Ahsan Manjil was ended. His successors couldnt con-
tinue the glory because of the internal family quarrel.
They rented dierent parts of the palace to tenants, who
8.3. GLORY DAYS 29

actually made it a slum. In 1952, govt. acquired the prop-

erty and left in supervision of the Dhaka Nawab court.
In 1985, Dhaka National Museum acquired the property
and made it a museum following a massive restoration
programme which utilised historic photographs of the
property.[2]

8.2 Description and construction

Ahsan Manzil is one of the most signicant architec-

tural monuments of Bangladesh. The building structure
was established on a raised platform of 1 meter, the two-
storied palace measures 125.4m by 28.75m. The height Dome of Ahsan-Monzil
of the ground oor is 5 meters and the height of the
rst oor is 5.8 meters. The thickness of the walls of
which is at the center of the palace, took a lot tedious
the palace is about 0.78 meters. There are porticos of 5
planning. The square room on the ground oor was built
meters height on the northern and southern sides of the
with a round shape and brickworks were done around the
palace. The building has a broad front-facing the Burig-
corners. To give the room an octagonal shape, squinches
anga River. On the river side, an open spacious stairway
were given around the roof corners. The eight corners
leads right up to the second portal and on their stands the
of the octagon was slanted gradually to make the dome
grand triple- arched portals. There was once a fountain in
look like the bud of a lotus ( kumud kali). The peak of
the garden in front of the stairs which does not exist to-
this dome is 27.13 m above the ground. Ahsan Manzil
day. All along the north and the south side of the building
was severely damaged during the tornado that occurred
run spacious verandahs with an open terrace projected in
on 7 April 1888.the western block of Andermahal was
the middle.
completely demolished and later it was entirely rebuilt.
The palace Ahsan Manzil is divided into two parts: the The present day dome, which is situated on the top, was
eastern side and the western side. The eastern building built during the time of reconstruction. This place was
with the dome is called the Rangmahal and the western also damaged during the earthquake of 1897 but Nawab
side with the living rooms is called Andarmahal. The Khwaja Ahsanullah repaired the whole place again.
high octagonal dome is placed on the central round room.
There is a large drawing room, card room, library, state
room and two other guest rooms are located on the east 8.3 Glory days
side of the palace. The ballroom, the Hindustani room
and few residential rooms are situated on the western side.
A beautiful vaulted articial ceiling, made of wood, deco-
rates the drawing room and the Jalsaghar. A splendid din-
ing hall and few smaller rooms are placed on the west part.
The oors of the dining and Darbar Halls are decorated
with white, green and yellow colored ceramic tiles. The
famous store room, where the valuables of the Nawabs
used to be stored, was in the middle of the ve rooms lo-
cated in the western half of the ground oor. Along with
those rooms a Darbar Hall or assembly hall and a chest
room is also place there.
There are attractive wooden stairs in the room that is at-
tached to the north of the domed room. The balusters
were ornamented with vine leaves made of iron along the
railing of the stairs. The wooden ceiling of the room, dec-
orated with geometric designs, is very elegant. The veran-
das and rooms are covered with marble. The doorways
are placed within semicircular arches. The inner doors
Nawab Sir Salimullah with his family in front of Ahsan Manzil
had multi-colored glasses. Wooden beams supported the
roof of these rooms. The architecture and the decoration In 1874, Lord Northbrook, Governor General of India at-
is one of a kind in whole Bangladesh. tended an evening function in the palace when he came
The construction of the famous dome of the Ahsan Mazil, to lay the foundation of a water works installed by Nawab
30 CHAPTER 8. AHSAN MANZIL

Abdul Ghani. In 1888, Lord Duerin also accepted the

hospitality oered at Ahsan Manzil. In 1904 Lord Cur-
zon, on a visit to East Bengal, stayed in this palace on 18
and 19 February to win public support for the proposed
Partition of Bengal.
Ahsan Manzil, an architectural treasure, is a witness to
many historical events of Bangladesh. From the last
part of the 19th century to the initial years of Pakistan,
the Muslim leadership of East Bengal emerged from this
palace. The nawabs of Dhaka used to conduct their court
aairs here as chief of the panchayet (village council) ev-
eryday. Many anti-Congress meetings were held here un-
der the patronization of Nawab Ahsanullah, a staunch be-
liever in Muslim identity. Almost all the Viceroys, Gov-
ernors and Lieutenant Governors of British India who vis- Rare Exhibits inside Ahsan Manzil
ited Dhaka spent some time at the Ahsan Manzil. Almost
all political activities of Nawab Khwaja Salimullah cen- tourist center after its proper conservation.
tred round this palace. Ahsan Manzil was the cradle of
the All India Muslim League. With the decline of the After the implementation of the work on the museum
Nawabs of Dhaka, Ahsan Manzil also started to decline. started, most of the nawabs house area along with the half
of the portion of the Andarmahal remained beyond ac-
quisition. The total area of acquired land was 5.65 acres.
Out of that 0.68 acres from northern side was given to
8.4 Decline Dhaka City Corporation to establish a super market and
4.96 acres of land with the palace buildings remained for
In 1952, the Dhaka Nawab State was acquired under the museum purpose. In 1986, the work began according
East Bengal Estate Acquisition Act; it became impossible to the above order keeping the original structure undis-
for the successors of the Nawabs to maintain the palace turbed and reconstructing the old environment as far as
due to nancial constraints. Nawab Khwaja Habibullah possible. After the completion of the renovation work in
started living at Paribag Green House soon after the ac- 1992, under the supervision of the Directorate of Public
quisition of the zamindari. The palace was soon on the Works and Architecture, it was brought under the control
verge of collapse as successors rented out rooms with- of Bangladesh National Museum (20 September 1992).
out considering its dignity. Over the years illegal occu- A museum has been established there.
pants turned the place into a lthy slum. After the inde-
pendence of Bangladesh, most of the nawab family went
to abroad in search of a better livelihood and work. On 8.6 References
1974, the owners of the palace decided to put it up for
auction. [1] Mohammad Alamgir (2012). Ahsan Manzil. In Sirajul
Islam and Ahmed A. Jamal. Banglapedia: National Ency-
clopedia of Bangladesh (Second ed.). Asiatic Society of
Bangladesh.
8.5 Renovation
[2] Ahsan Manzil - Lonely Planet
Recognizing the historical and architectural importance
of the Ahsan Manzil, the government of Bangladesh took ArchNet on Ahsan Manzil Restoration
the initiative to renovate it. In 1985, Ahsan Manzil and
its surroundings were acquired. After the completion of Muntasir Mamun, Dhaka: Smriti Bismritir Nogori,
the renovation work in 1992 under the supervision of vol1, Anyna Publishers 2008, Ahsan Majil, pg39
the Directorate of Public Works and Architecture, it was Ahsan Manzil History and visiting hours of the
brought under the control of Bangladesh National Mu- Old Dhaka Palace
seum (20 September 1992). A museum has been estab-
lished there.
Considering the historical importance and architectural 8.7 Further reading
signicance of Ahsan Manzil palace, the government was
trying to conserve it since the later part of the Pakistani Taifoor,S.M. Glimpses of Old Dacca, Dhaka, 1956
rule. The father of nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mu-
jibur Rahman canceled its auction proposal option. On Dani, A.H. Muslim Architecture of Bengal, Dhaka
November 2, 1974, he ordered to establish a museum and 1961
Chapter 9

Shankhari Bazaar

Shankhari Bazaar is one of the oldest areas in Old
Dhaka. It stretches along a narrow lane, lined with richly
decorated brick buildings, built during the late Mughal or
Colonial period.[1]
crafted from slices of Shankha or conch shells. Shankha
is the symbol that indicates that a Hindu woman is mar-
ried. In the 17th century, the Shankhari people were
brought by the Mughal emperor, who allotted this place
to them for living which later known as Shankhar Bazaar.

9.1 Location
Shankhari Bazar is located near the intersection of Is- 9.3 Lifestyle
lampur Road and Nawabpur Road, a block north of the
Buriganga River. The place especially belongs to the
The Shankhari people are an artisan caste. Most belong
Hindu peoples.
to the Vaishnava branch of Hinduism, and some to the
Shakta school; many are vegetarian.[2]

9.4 Houses

Statue of Deity Durga

Temple Gate Shankhari Bazar was very famous and expensive during
the 18th century. The Shankhari people were allotted
with places to build houses. Shankhari Bazar is a long
narrow street lined by brick buildings which are very old.
9.2 Background and the name The widths of buildings were about 12 ft, 70100 ft in
length and 2-3 storeys in height. The highest height of
The area belonged to the Shankhari Community, who the buildings was four storeys. Every house used to have
borrowed their name from Shankha, a decorated bangle a temple room in it.

32
9.8. FURTHER READING 33

9.5 Temples and Durga Puja 9.8 Further reading

The Hindu temples are one of the major attractions of Bahauddin, Md (11 March 2011). Conservation
Shankhari Bazar. There are many temples on this narrow and Management of Historic Buildings: Advanced
street. Over the ages, Shankhari Bazaar has been elevated International Training Programme (PDF).
to the level of the most popular center for religious festiv-
Islam, Taimur; Zaman, Homaira (21 April 2006).
ities. As one of the most densely populated areas in the
Conservation of a Historic Mohalla. Star Week-
world Shankhari Bazaar also has the largest concentration
end. The Daily Star.
of the Hindus in Dhaka. The temples are small in size but
well decorated with ornamental motifs on the entrance Glassie, Henry. Traditional Art of Bangladesh.
and on the walls of the temples. The temples contain the Bangla Academy. pp. 307313. ISBN 984-07-
statue of goddess Durga, Ganesha, Shiva etc. Durga Puja 3929-8.
is the major festival of Hindu people. During Durga puja,
people gathers in Shankhari Bazaar to worship and view
Coordinates: 234236N 902435E / 23.709995N
goddess Durga. Besides Hindu, Muslims also attend the
90.409683E
Puja. In Durga puja, Shankhari Bazaar looks quite nice
because of colorful feston, banner etc. Small and tempo-
rary food shops are also built during Durga puja. People
from dierent places come to Shankhari Bazaar to see
the Puja.

9.6 Pannitola

Pannitola

Pannitola is in the Rakhal Chandra Basak Lane of

Shankhari Bazaar. The name Pannitola basically came
from the rst settling area of the Panniwala, people who
used to make the foil of tin. The living style of the Pan-
niwalas was similar to the Shankhari people.

9.7 References
[1] Mamun, Muntasir (2010). Dhaka Smirti Bismiritir Nagari
(in Bengali). Dhaka: Anannya. pp. 159161. ISBN 7-
01-050355-9.

[2] Sharmin Naaz (2012). Shankhari (shell artisan)". In Sir-

ajul Islam and Ahmed A. Jamal. Banglapedia: National
Encyclopedia of Bangladesh (Second ed.). Asiatic Society
of Bangladesh.