15

CO M M O N FI T T ING A DJUST ME NTS

fo r j e an s & pan t s
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

Shorten Crotch page 3

Lengthen Crotch page 4

Round Pubis page 5

Flat Pubis page 6

Full Tummy page 7

Full Seat page 8

Flat Seat page 9

Low Seat page 10

Gaping Back page 11

Full Thigh page 12

Thin Thigh page 13

Full Calf page 14

Knock Kneed page 15

Bowlegged page 16

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 2

Front adjustments
SHORTEN CROTCH

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

Drag lines radiating downwards from front
crotch, resembling a frown.
Shave width off the inseam (or front thigh)
to shorten front crotch curve. Work in 1/4
increments since small adjustments make a big
difference. Smoothly join your new inseam line
into mid thigh with a french curve or ruler.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 3

Front adjustments
LENGTHEN CROTCH

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

Drag lines radiating upwards from front
crotch, resembling a smile.
Add width off to inseam (or front thigh) to
lengthen front crotch curve. Work in 1/4
increments since small adjustments make a big
difference. Smoothly join your new inseam line
into mid thigh with a french curve or ruler.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 4

Front adjustments
ROUND PUBIS ( AKA CAMEL TOE)

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

Vertical drag lines around the front crotch Scoop out front crotch curve a little. This
seam. Seam digs into pubic area. deepens the curve and creates room for the
pubis. A 1/4 or 1/8 adjustment can make a
big difference.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 5

Front adjustments
F L AT P U B I S

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

Horizontal wrinkles at the front crotch may Draw in a shallower front crotch curve; this
indicate that your pubic bone is a little flatter flattens the curve. A 1/4 or 1/8 adjustment
than what is drafted for. Many horizontal lines can make a big difference.
can also indicate that pants are too tight at the
hip, so if it feels too snug try letting out the
hip first before attempting this adjustment.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 6

Front adjustments
FULL TUMMY
SYM PTO M :
A full tummy may create diagonal drag lines
radiating from your stomach. The side seams
may also come forward around the stomach,
along with a little tightness in the crotch.
SOLUTION:
To correct, slash along the center front to the
hip and rotate along a hinge to add length
and width through the abdomen area. You
may also find you need to add a little length to
the crotch curve by letting out the inseam.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 7
Back adjustments
F U L L S E AT
SYM PTO M :
If you have a fuller bottom, you may notice
drag lines all pointing to the back crotch seam.
The back waistline may also be tugged down
(very common with round apple bottoms - the
yoke will sit lower on the back than intended).
SOLUTION:
You need to add length to the back seat curve
to make room. The proper method is to cut
through the center back seam to the hip and
rotate along a hinge to add length and width
through the seat. You can also cheat by adding
a little to the inseam and top seam as indicated
above. You may also find that you need a
deeper seat curve if you scoop out that curve
more, please note you will have to add a little
to the hip since you are removing width across
the hip with this adjustment.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 8
Back adjustments
F L AT S E AT
SYM PTO M :
A flatter seat than the pattern is drafted for
is indicated by bagginess under the bum and
diagonal drag lines pointing to the hip.
SOLUTION:
You need to remove length from the back seat
curve. The proper method is to cut through the
center back seam to the hip and rotate along a
hinge to remove length and width through
the seat. You can also cheat by subtracting
a little from the inseam and top seam as
indicated above. You may also find that you
need a deeper seat curve if you scoop out
that curve more, please note you will have to
add a little to the hip since you are removing
width across the hip with this adjustment.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 9
Back adjustments
L O W S E AT

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

If the curve of your bum sits a little lower
than the pant has been drafted for, youll find
horizontal drag lines under your seat and
excess fabric at the crease of your bum and
legs.
To remove drag lines, scoop out the seat curve
so it makes more of an L shape. This will
make room for the lower curve of your seat.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 10

Back adjustments
GAPING BACK

Waistband adjustment

Yoke adjustment

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

Waistband (and possibly the yoke) gape
against lower back. Pinch out excess with a
pinned dart so you know how much you need
to remove.
You must remove length from the top waistband
edge so it sits closer to the body. Note the width
of the dart you made and cut and hinge your
waistband between side seam and center back
to remove width to top seam only. Your
waistband will now have a more pronounced
curve. Follow the same step to remove width
from the top edge of the yoke as well.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 11
Back adjustments
FULL THIGH

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

If you need more room in the thigh, your Extend your back crotch at the inner thigh to
pants will tell you with diagonal drag lines give yourself more room.
or wrinkles pointing towards your crotch
inseam.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 12

Front and back adjustments
THIN THIGH

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

If your thighs need less room, you should Taking width off the back inseam will help; you
see vertical drag lines along the back of your may also need to remove a little from the front
thigh. inseam as well.

Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 13

Leg adjustments
FULL CALF
SYM PTO M :
If youre spotting horizontal drag lines above
the back of your knees, or your pants fit very
snugly in the calf, you will need to make room.
SOLUTION:
Cut your pattern as indicated above, and hinge
seams along the lower leg to create more width
along the back of the calf. This will widen the
ankle opening. If you prefer a skinnier fit, you
may want to try taking in the side seams below
your calf to taper the ankle opening.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 14
Leg adjustments
KNOCK KNEED
SYM PTO M :
If youre a little knock kneed you may find
that the fabric is tight along your inseam
and looser at your side seam. Youll notice
diagonal drag lines radiating from along the
side seam above and below the knee.
SOLUTION:
You need a little more length at the inseam and
a little less at the side seam. To achieve this,
slash to a center point in the center of the thigh
on either side and rotate the entire upper pant
so that you are reducing the length along the
side seam while slightly adding to the inseam.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 15
Leg adjustments
BOW LEGGED

SYM PTO M : SOLUTION:

Youll notice drag lines radiating out from the
side seam around your knee and calf.
The exact opposite adjustment we made for
the knock kneed; you need more length on the
side seam and less on the inseam. To achieve
this, slash to a center point in the center of the
thigh on either side and rotate the entire upper
pant so that you are adding to the length of
the side seam while reducing the length of the
inseam.
Pants Fitting Guide | C L O S E T C A S E PAT T E R N S 16