Win!

A five-star week
for two in Madeira

MARCH 2017 // 3.95 // UK EDITION // NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK

SWITZERLAND

at the speed of a glacier

homestays
C I T Y BEHIND
CLOSED
DOORS IN
JAPAN
L I F E
IBIZA
46 OF THE WORLD'S
B O L D E S T, B R I G H T E S T
& BRASHEST CITIES
the angelic side of
a devilish island
CHILE'S WILD
ROLLING-
EYED BEAST OF A ROAD
ALSO: JERUSALEM // LISBON // NEW ZEALAND // PORTLAND // SINGAPORE // ZAGREB // SOUTH AUSTRALIA
 vk.com/stopthepress
FRESH MAGAZINES EVERYDAY

VK.COM/STOPTHEPRESS
 At the end of a
3000 mile adventure, youd think
you had seen everything
there was to see in Africa.

For more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate, visit www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate. Sagas holidays and cruises are exclusively for the over 50s (but a travelling companion
can be 40+). Saga Holidays is a trading name of ST&H Ltd (registration no. 2174052). ST&H Ltd and Saga Cruises Ltd (registration no. 3267858) are subsidiaries of ST&H Group Ltd (registration
no. 0720588). All three companies are registered in England and Wales. Registered Office: Enbrook Park, Sandgate, Folkestone, Kent CT20 3SE. With respect to general insurance products
sold in the UK, ST&H Ltd is an appointed representative of Saga Services Limited, registered in England and Wales (company no. 732602), which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. NHA-AP5114.
 Deep canyons, hot springs, towering sand dunes
and sunset cruises are just the beginning of
all youll experience on this incredible holiday.
Adventure across Southern Africa, experiencing
sights youd previously only seen in films or
your imagination. All roads lead to a magnificent
finale, one of the greatest natural wonders
of the world, Victoria Falls. Be hypnotised by
the entire Zambezi River tumbling majestically
into the Batoka Gorge below. The locals call it
The Smoke That Thunders. Once you arrive
youll understand why. As they say, if youre going
to do it, do it properly.
Visit saga.co.uk/goforit
or call 0800 302 9798.
When your Silversea Expeditions ship takes you to the wonder of whales breaching before you, our expert team will share
of Antarctica, it carries you close to some of the planets most their knowledge to make you feel even more intimately
extraordinary creatures. Our intrepid Zodiac craft allow you to acquainted with this natural wonder; our personal service is
venture closer still. And as you witness the awe-inspiring sight not confined to the comfortable environment on board.

Voyage Beyond Expectation

BEYOND SIGHTSEEING

For more information please call 0207 340 0700,

visit silversea.com/expeditions
or contact your travel agent.
 A holiday experience at Matterhorn FOCUS in Zermatt
means an exciting fusion of art and architecture
from a unique point of view.

www.
matterhorn-
focus.ch

FEATURES
In pictures:
132
South Australia
The peaks of the Flinders Ranges
rise above Outback plains, salt
lakes and red sand dunes
76 Cover story: Cities
The latest urban innovations,
revolutions and trends
transforming our metropolises
92 Switzerland
Embrace slow travel on the
Glacier Express, gliding between
gorges, vineyards and spa towns
March
2017
Contents
108 Chile
On the bumpy Carretera Austral,
vast glaciers and Patagonian
wildlife clamour for attention
122 Ibiza
Head inland to glimpse the
soul of Ibiza, where unnoticed
hamlets nestle among orchards
142 City life: Jerusalem
When history, legend and
scripture intertwine, facts can be
elusive but stories soar Issue 53
Nyhavn Canal at sunset,
152 City life: Portland Copenhagen, Denmark
In this quirky spot, the DIY vibe IMAGE: 4Corners
spreads from beer and coffee to
food trucks and craft shops
March 2017 7
 March
2017

Contents

20 64 170

SMART TRAVELLER 41 The word TRAVEL GEEKS

17 Snapshot
Madrids love affair with cochinillo asado
19 Editors picks
These are a few of our favourite things
20 Big picture
Pre-dawn trading in Nha Trang
22 Whats new
Baz Luhrmann, new ravers and smart tech
28 Do it now
Where to go for some serious shut-eye
31 Food
Ray Mears in the polar north
33 On the trail
Eye-catching architecture in Baku
The Art of the Airport by Alexander Gutzmer
43 Competition
Win a five-star trip for two to Madeira
44 Events
Travel Geeks tackles cycling, Japan and food
49 Author series
Samantha Wilson in Honduras Bay Islands
50 View from the USA
Aaron Millar vouches for Las Vegas
52 Online
Weekly highlights from natgeotraveller.co.uk
INSIDER
54 Weekender: Zagreb
Forgo the coast for this confident capital
158 Travel Geeks
The experts travel manuel
170 Feature: Homestays in Japan
Bunk with locals for a fresh perspective
176 Report: Allergies
Navigating foreign travel with food allergies
GET IN TOUCH
184 Subscriptions
Great offers and discounts
185 Inbox
Your letters, emails and tweets
186 Your pictures
This months best travel photos

34 Rooms 59 Neighbourhood: Lisbon DON'T MISS

Scandi style in Swedens second city
36 Family
Make a difference abroad
39 Stay at home
Mermaid Street and more in Rye
Cute, bombastic and buckets of fun
47 Big Sleep Awards
64 Eat: Queenstown Tell us which hotels deserve recognition
Farm fresh Kiwi cuisine
164 Travel Writing Competition
68 Sleep: Singapore Have you got what it takes it takes to write
The eclectic offerings of the Lion City for National Geographic Traveller (UK)?

Reader offers see p.141 for our latest partnership with Barrhead Travel

8 natgeotraveller.co.uk
2017 Visit San Antonio
 Contributors
Lee Cobaj
With tropical greenery creeping
around every corner, energy-efficient
skyscrapers, electric taxis and its aim
to become the first zero-waste nation,
Singapore truly lives up to its Garden City
moniker. SINGAPORE P.68
Ben Lerwill
Switzerlands Glacier Express railway
may only cover a modest 181 miles from St
Moritz to Zermatt, but the scenery en route
is monumentally beautiful. The service also
glories in calling itself the slowest express
train in the world. SWITZERLAND P.92
Adrian Phillips
Southern Chiles bumpy, gravel-covered
Carretera Austral snakes over 800 miles
through Patagonian wilderness. By turns
beautiful and downright terrifying, its one
of the most invigorating and life-affirming
road trips in the world. CHILE P.108
Tara Isabella Burton
There are cities that get into your blood.
Jerusalem was one of them for me. Walking
alone at night on the Via Dolorosa, sitting on
the terrace of the Austrian Hospice, lighting
candles at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
I felt like Id come home. JERUSALEM P.142
David Whitley
I was wary of Portland the hipster
stereotype made me think it would reek of
pretentiousness. But when you get there,
you find that genuine love and enthusiasm
rather than an aspiration to be cool are the
driving forces. PORTLAND P.152
10 natgeotraveller.co.uk
National Geographic Traveller (UK) APL Media
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Contributing Editors:
Editor: Pat Riddell Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry,
Deputy Editor: Glen Mutel Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova
Senior Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro Editorial Assistant:
Associate Editor: Sarah Barrell
Assistant Editor: Amelia Duggan
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Sub Editor: Lorraine Grifths
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Photography Magazine, Editor: Gamp, Danielle Humphrey, Philip Lay
Tamsin Wressell Production Controllers:
Digital Editor: Seamus McDermott Maia Abrahams, Joaquim Pereira,
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Chris Horton Sales and Marketing Manager:
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Production Manager: Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens
Daniel Gregory Managing Director:
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Special Projects Consultant: Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Matthew Midworth Sales Administrator:
National Geographic Traveller Melissa Jurado
Business Development Team: Executive Assistant:
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Glyn Morgan, Adam Phillips, Financial Controller: Ryan McShaw
Mark Salmon, John Stergides, Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
Jon Stone Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Head of National Geographic Accounts Assistant: Jana Abraham
Traveller The Collection: Head of Billings and Revenue:
Danny Pegg Sarah Robinson
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,
Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL.
natgeotraveller.co.uk
Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk
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National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from
National Geographic Partners, LLC. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2017
and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is
taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility
in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting
on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National
Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or
claims made by advertisers.
National Geographic Traveler (US) Mary Beth Oelkers-Keegan,
Ann Marie Pelish, Brett Weisband
Editor-in-Chief, Travel Media: Communications Vice President:
George W. Stone Heather Wyatt
Publisher & Vice President, Global Communications Director:
Media: Kimberly Connaghan Meg Calnan
Digital Director: Andrea Leitch Senior Vice President,
Design Director: Marianne Seregi International Media: Yulia P. Boyle
Director of Photography: Director, International Magazine
Anne Farrar Publishing: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
Editorial Projects Director:
Andrew Nelson National Geographic Society
Senior Editor: Jayne Wise
Features Editor: Amy Alipio President & CEO: Gary E. Knell
Associate Editor: Hannah Sheinberg Board of Trustees Chairman:
Editor/Producer: Christine Blau Jean N. Case
Producers: Mary McGrory, Vice Chairman: Tracy R. Wolstencroft
Lindsay Smith
Associate Producer: Caity Garvey National Geographic Partners
Editor, Adventure: Mary Anne Potts
Deputy Art Director: CEO: Declan Moore
Leigh V. Borghesani Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg
Senior Photo Producer: Sarah Polger Chief Financial Ofcer:
Associate Photo Producers: Marcela Martin
Jeff Heimsath, Jess Mandia Global Networks CEO:
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Laura Emmons Chief Communications Ofcer:
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Board of Directors Chairman:
Gary E. Knell
Copyright 2017 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
National Geographic Traveler: Registered Trademark. Printed in the UK.
 HIGHLIGHTS

Editors
letter National Geographic
Traveller Festival

T
here was a time, not so long ago, when people Step into the pages of our magazine at this live
reader event, packed with headline speakers,
didnt want to live in city centres. But then, as the
acts, workshops and cuisine. See p.14
1980s moved into the 90s, docklands began to be
spruced up, warehouses were renovated and architects
and town planners started to reimagine areas of
post-industrial decline as 21st-century habitats.
This culture of renewal and entrepreneurship has driven
a wealth of urban developments across the world,
transforming the lives of the people who live there. Travel Writing Competition
Swathes of smaller cities are now being overhauled, Enter our annual competition and you could
while neighbourhoods and boroughs in the larger win a place on a 10-day polar expedition to
Greenland. See p.164
metropolises are getting a whole new look. Witness
Berlins creative revolution or Portlands hotbed of
hipsterism. Across the globe, where you find Gap and
Apple stores, youll now also find local craft beer
breweries, food trucks, designer art galleries and gin
distilleries, as well as bike-share schemes and shipping
container parks.
Big Sleep Awards
Our cover story this issue highlights some of the notable Nominate your favourite hotel in our three
urban changes happening around the world neglected Readers categories and youll be in with the
chance to win an iPad Mini. See p.47
mansions transformed into boutique hotels, railway lines
converted into urban walkways and entire areas revamped.
What was once just a trend in capitals and major
conurbations is seemingly now something for cities of
any size benefiting all of us.

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

Travel Geeks
@patriddell Dont miss our next three reader events
@patriddell Cycling, Japan and Food & Drink. See p.44

AWARD-WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer British Society of Magazine Editors Awards 2016: Editor of the Year, Lifestyle (Shortlisted)
Ecoventura LATA Media Awards 2016: Online Blog Feature of the Year British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine British Annual Canada
Travel Awards 2015: Best Canada Media Coverage Germany Travel Writers Awards 2015: First Prize British Travel Awards 2014: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine
British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2013: Best Overseas Feature British Travel Press Awards 2012: Young Travel Writer of the Year

SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELLER ON FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+ FLICKR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM

12 natgeotraveller.co.uk
BOOK NOW

2017
Planning your next trip? Want to see the world through new eyes? Love travel?
Then the National Geographic Traveller Festival is for you. Step into the pages of our
award-winning publication at this all-day live reader event, packed with inspirational
speakers, writers, photographers, travel experts and must-try workshops. Pick from
a menu featuring our popular Travel Geeks panels, Photography and Travel Writing
masterclasses, Babbel language lessons, dance and martial arts classes, cooking
demonstrations, and much, much more. Book now!

Save
SU
t hNeDdAaYte17
17
SEPTEMBER 20
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14 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 BOOK NOW

Seven reasons to
ook now
1
TRAVEL WRITING MASTERCLASSES
Our incredibly popular sessions will cover
finding a story, how to pitch, beginnings
and endings, structure and a Q&A with the
editor of National Geographic Traveller

2
TRAVEL
GEEKS
PANELS
Meet the National
Geographic Traveller
team, as we gather a
panel of experts to
discuss everything

3
from cycling to
COOKING DEMOS
foodie tours
Tantalise your taste
buds, pick up tips and
enhance your culinary skills
at these expert-led food and
wine sessions
4
SNAPSHOT TO
MA STERPIECE

5
Learn how to d
o more
BRUSH UP ON LINGO than just point
and shoot
Perfect phrases and pronunciation at our compreh
ensive
before your next big trip with the Photography
language experts at Babbel Masterclasses

6 7
SURVIVAL SKILLS DANCE & KICK
From lighting a fire Break a sweat during
to finding food, one of our active
learn a practical skill classes, with everything
to practice in the from martial arts to
wild outdoors dance routines

TICKETS: 150
EARLYBIRD TICKETS ON SALE NOW FOR 135
IMAGE: GETTY

AT NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/FESTIVAL
Headline acts to be announced in the spring.

March 2017 15
 Awaken your sense of wonder

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Onboard our intimate small ships experience our discreet service, friendly bilingual staff,
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Begin the experience at www.ponant.com

All rights reserved - PONANT. Documents and photos for illustrative

purposes only. Photo credit : PONANT / Nathalie Michel / Franois
Lefebvre.
 SMART TRAVELLER
Whats new // Do it now // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Roel Basalam
Alim, Madrid
The man in charge of suckling pigs at Madrids
Sobrino de Botn, the worlds oldest
continuously running restaurant, is Roel
Basalam Alim. The three-week-old pigs, or
cochinillo asado, are roasted in a traditional
oven for two-and-a-half hours, and Roel can
cook 50 in a day, using a long wooden paddle
to move the pigs around inside the oven.
This dish has been served and prepared the
same way for some 300 years and was
eulogised in the closing pages of Ernest
Hemingways 1926 novel, The Sun Also Rises.
NICK WARNER // PHOTOGRAPHER

nickwarner.co.uk

March 2017 17
 DIVINE GACT&IVITIES
MARIN

St Helena Island, one of the most remote places on earth, is also one of the best destinations in the world to
encounter whale sharks. Swimming with the worlds largest fish is an unforgettable experience and a must-do
activity between January and March, when these gentle giants visit our shores. For further information,
please visit our website or send an email toenquiries@tourism.co.sh.

www.sthelenatourism.com
 EDITORS' PICKS // SMART TRAVELLER

75TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE FAMOUS FIVE

1. A garden of adventure: Family activities
will be held the Royal Horticultural Societys
four major gardens this May. rhs.org.uk
2. Dorset capers: Corfe Castle is believed
to have been the inspiration for Enid
Blytons Kirrin Castle. visitengland.com
3. Gift books: Parody tales include Five
Give Up the Booze, Five Go Parenting and
Five Go Gluten Free.
MARIA PIERI // EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

n the os
SURPRISE LOVED ONES WITH A HANDWRITTEN POSTCARD FROM TIMBUKTU,
IN AID OF TOURISM GUIDES WHOVE BEEN PUT OUT OF WORK BY REGIONAL
UNREST. POSTCARDSFROMTIMBUKTU.COM AMELIA DUGGAN // ASSISTANT EDITOR

Editos' icks
Weve been here and weve been there, and our team
have found a few things we thought wed share
BOWIES BERLIN
2017 marks 40 years
since the release of
Heroes and Sagas long
weekend pays homage with
guest speakers, sightseeing
PHILANTHROPIC PHILLY ON LOCATION and dining at Paris Bar. So go

Philadelphia restaurant Rooster Soup What we're on, be a hero but just for
four days. bowie-berlin.com
Co. makes stock from leftover chicken
parts and gives all net profits to a local
charity. Soup never tasted so good.
watching... TAMSIN WRESSELL
// CONTRIBUTING
EDITOR
roostersoupcompany.com STEPHANIE VICEROYS HOUSE
CAVAGNARO // SENIOR EDITOR (3 March)
Where: India

PATRIOTS DAY
(23 February)
Where: USA
IMAGES: GETTY; COCO VAN OPPENS PHOTOGRAPHY; MICHAEL PERSICO

In numbers
THE ODYSSEY
(14 April) HULLS NEW 'BLADE' SCULPTURE
Where: Croatia
& South Africa 50 items 342,000
such as lamps and visitors came to Hull
benches were pushed in its rst week as
aside for the sculpture, UK City of Culture
which weighs celebrations. 'Blade'

2 8 tonnes. will on display until

70 people
18 March.
were involved in its CONNOR
transportation and it's MCGOVERN

75m long. // EDITORIAL

ASSISTANT

March 2017 19
SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Hon Ro, Vietnam

We sent the Portfolio winner of our National
Geographic Traveller (UK) Photography
Competition 2016 on a commission to
Vietnam. During his trip, he snapped this
image of Hon Ro: A busy fishing port in the
city of Nha Trang in South Central Vietnam,
Hon Ro is a bustling hub of trading activity
during the predawn hours. I return later in
the morning, keen to capture moments of
relative calm after the hectic period, and come
across a small group of women, quietly and
methodically mending what seems like acres
of fishing net. Climbing some nearby steps,
I manage to fill the frame and surround my
subject in a sea of colour and texture for both
visual and symbolic effect.
ALAN ORIORDAN // PHOTOGRAPHER

alanoriordan.com
@alanoriordan6870

20 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SMART TRAVELLER

March 2017 21
SMART TRAVELLER // WHATS NEW

director's
HOTELS

THE CUT
Baz Luhrmann is the latest cinematic auteur to dabble in design,
joining the likes of Hollywood greats David Lynch and Wes Anderson

HITCHCOCKS
HANGOVER CURE
The director was partial
to a drink. A favourite tipple
was the gin-based White Lady,
invented by barman Harry
MacElhone of Harrys New York
Bar in Paris. For a creamy taste,
add beaten egg white to
gin, lemon juice and

Faena Hotel iami Beach Cointreau.

Moderation isnt a concept in Baz Lurhmanns

aesthetic wheelhouse. So its no surprise
SET THE SCENE
that Faena Hotel, the jewel in the crown
of Miamis $1.2 billion (995m) Mid-Beach
regeneration, is an orgiastic display of
CLUB SILENCIO
In David Lynchs Mulholland Drive (2011),
stylistic flamboyance and eye-popping Club Silencio is a nightmarish theatre
luxury. Lurhmann and his Academy Award- of phony performers. Its namesake
winning production designer wife, Catherine in Paris second arrondissement is
Martin, were invited to spearhead the hotels something quite different. Opened
design by Alan Faena, the self-styled urban in 2011, its Lynchs answer to Andy
alchemist who breathed new life into the Warhols The Factory: a members club
for artists during the day and a wild
derelict docklands of Buenos Aires Puerto
public bar by night. Every detail, down
Madero district a decade ago.
to the bespoke 1950s-inspired furniture,
The art deco influences of Luhrmanns was picked by Lynch. silencio-club.com
The Great Gatsby (2013) are written across the
complexs 169 rooms and suites, cocktail bar BAR LUCE
and Moulin Rouge-inflected cabaret theatre. The kitschest kitchen in Milan opened in
IMAGE: TODD EBERLE/HOTEL FAENA

Built in the shell of the Saxony hotel, which May 2015. Designed by Wes Anderson,
hosted Liz Taylor and Dean Martin, Hotel Bar Luce echoes the modish sets of
Faena opened in December 2016. Poolside, The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) with
its seafoam green Formica tables,
beyond the gilded columns and chandeliers,
whimsical wallpaper and pinball
sits a golden mammoth skeleton Damien
machines. Set in the Fondazione Prada,
Hirsts Gone But Not Forgotten showcases it pays stylistic homage to the palatial
the hotels artistic vision: an opulent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping
revivification of Miamis glamorous heyday. arcade and Milanese cafes of the mid-
faena.com/miami-beach AMELIA DUGGAN 20th century. fondazioneprada.org

22 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Why just look out over
the landscape...

when you can walk

straight through it

Come with us to Colorado and you wont just see the

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C A N

With incredible, diverse landscapes, Colorado opens up a world of

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WASHINGTON

Watch wildlife in its natural habitat. Meet local people. M O N T A N A N O RT H D A K O TA M I N

Experience the great outdoors. Discover the Americas likeO R E G O N

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Hike through Colorados breathtaking scenery, sandboard in the Gunnison NP Aspen Denver
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For our full range of small group tours in the USA, Canada, South and Central
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M E X I C O
www.heritancehotels.com
 WHATS NEW // SMART TRAVELLER

of society FABRIC

Despite recent venue closures, a

turn of events means Londons
clubs have a new lease of life

After Londons landmark club Fabric closed late last year due to municipal mishandling and
misunderstanding, the Farringdon venue made a Lazarus-like return in January. According to the
the club, this is thanks to the petition signers, letter writers, donors, T-shirt bearers, artists, party
promoters and more than we can ever recount. All hail international club community spirit.
The opening weekend saw trusted hands Craig Richards and Terry Francis both resident since
1999 performing alongside Seth Troxler and Daniel Avery. A new addition is the Pioneer Pro
Audio Room showcasing the clubs focus on high quality sound. Party on. fabriclondon.com

RAVING RAMBLERS
The
To ramble or to rave? The two So pop on your beanie, ne print
may appear to inhabit different pack your roll-top and camo
With the Night Tube in
spheres of interest but at their print backpack, and make the
action and Night Czar
heart share the same outdoors- pilgrimage from abandoned
Amy Lam directing
loving, law-flouting approach. Or at mill to rolling hills. In celebration party trafc, things are
least this is the backstory behind the of these new escapist threads, looking up in London.
launch of new outdoors clothing brand
RMBLR, which aims to create clothing n numbes countercultural publisher Huck has
come up with three hiking routes
Printworks is a new
5,000-capacity licensed

0.40
that looks as good on the dance floor as through the UKs most iconic rave venue set in what was
it does deep in the dales. According to cultural hotspots. And yes, theres more once Western Europes
largest print facility.
RMBLR, back in the days of CND and to them than meeting up at the local
THE PER PERSON FEE printworkslondon.
psychedelia, hiking became a way to Esso station and wandering along a
IMAGES: SARAH GINN; PRINTWORKS

IMPOSED ON CLUB co.uk

escape the aggressive political machine
and reconnect with nature. Further
out, rave culture saw weekend convoys
descend upon Englands green and
pleasant land looking for a party, from
Blackburn to the M25. As those 80s
ravers have grown up, rambling may well
be a safer pursuit not exactly easier on
the knees but definitely on the liver.
bypass. Our favourite is the route that
OWNERS IN BRUSSELS
FOR ANYONE explores the river and farmland setting
ASSSISTING OR for the game-changing 1989 Biology
PARTICIPATING AT rave in Watford that saw some 10,000
HABITUAL DANCING people show up to hear Paul Oakenfold,
VENUES. THE LAW Trevor Fung, Grooverider, Paul Trouble
DATES BACK TO THE Anderson and Nicky Holloway do
1950S BUT HAS BEEN their stuff in the open air. rmblr.co.uk
REINTRODUCED huckmagazine.com SARAH BARRELL

March 2017 25
 A dress watch with sporting pedigree,
the C3 Malvern Chronograph Mk III has
received its most impressive update yet.
With a dynamic case design inspired
by our premium dress line, and a choice
of three light-catching dial finishes,
itll redefine what you should expect from
a watch at this price.

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Discover the new breed of watchmaker...

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 WHATS NEW // SMART TRAVELLER

CLOCKWISE: Henn-na Hotel, Japan; Paris Navigating

Gym; automaton from the Robots exhibition at the
Science Museum, London

PILL POPPERS
British Airways has
applied for a patent to create
a digital pill, which can monitor

MAN
body temperature and stomach
acidity to facilitate an optimal
travel environment.
1 // HOTEL ba.com
Japans robot-staffed
Henn-na Hotel brand
is expanding with a further
three this year in Tokyo, Aichi

MACHINE
Not all smart tech will plunge
us into a Black Mirror-esque
dystopia. From robocases
and jetlag-fighting digital
pills to automata-staffed
hotels, the future of travel is
filled with android affinity
IMAGE: THE SCIENCE MUSEUM/ALDEBARAN ROBOTICS
and Osaka. From March, Tokyo
Disney Resort will open with a
front desk manned by a fembot
and dinosaur in a bellhop hat
and bowtie. Store luggage with a
robotic arm or ask the porter-bot
to bring it to your room where
facial recognition tech replaces
archaic keycards. h-n-h.jp/en
2 // SUITCASE
Travelmate Robotics has
created the first autonomous
suitcase, which follows owners
by tracking their smartphone
locations, rolling around at a
speed of up to almost 7mph.
Available from June, its as loyal
as a pet puppy just dont lose
Go with the flow

your phone. RRP: $399 (321).

travelmaterobotics.com
3 // EXHIBITION
Londons Science Museums
latest exhibition, which opened
in February, explores our 500-
year obsession with automatons.
Robots features over a hundred
pieces, including a 16th-century
mechanical monk and one of
the first bipedal bots. Dont miss
a Robots-themed Lates on 28
June. sciencemuseum.org.uk
A pedalo seems primitive compared to this
sightseeing vessel. Harnessing the power
of human energy, the Paris Navigating Gym
will ply the Seine, taking in scenes like Notre
Dame and the Eiffel Tower. Its a project led by
international designers, Carlo Ratti Associati,
and Technogym, and will feature augmented
reality screens that display the quantity of
energy sourced from workouts and data about
the rivers environmental conditions. Encased
in glass, the 65ft-long boat will host up to 45
fitness fiends. carloratti.com
STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO

March 2017 27
SMART TRAVELLER // DO IT NOW

insomni
BEATING
Plagued by restless nights?
Find out where to go and
who to see for some serious
shut-eye.

THE POWER NAP POD

The Metronap rest pods at Phukets
Kata Rocks are designed to
lull guests to sleep by playing
soothing sounds and putting you
in the perfect position for a nap,
taking pressure off the cardiac
system. katarocks.com

THE DREAM MATTRESS

Malagas Healthouse Las Dunas
GL Health & Beach Spa is the worlds
first hotel to feature NGmatt intelligent
mattresses that monitor the movements,
position and phases of your sleep. Results
are sent to the pioneering Austrian sleep FROM TOP: Ocean Loft Sky Villas,
laboratory Institute Proschlaf, whose feedback Kata Rocks; Energypod at Kata Rocks;
is used to create a tailor-made Insomnia Relaxation area at Champneys Tring
Programme. healthouse-naturhouse.com
THE SLEEP RETREAT
Champneys Trings new two-night Sleep
Retreat with sleep expert Jason Ellis could be
a dream come true. A professor of psychology
at Northumbria University and director of the
Northumbria Centre for Sleep Research, Ellis
is on a mission to show how getting an average
of just six-and-a-half hours shut-eye a night
can affect your mood and ability to carry out
everyday tasks. champneys.com
THE SLEEP CONCIERGE
For those who fret, toss and turn, a Six Senses
resort may be the solution. New initiatives
include special pyjamas, mattresses and
THREE TO TRY
1 // Sleep retreat focused on
nutrition and Ayurveda at the Shanti
Maurice, Mauritius. shantimaurice.com
2 // Laughter therapy at the SHA Wellness
Clinic in Spain, a favourite among
celebrities. spa-in-spain.com
3 // Chiva Soms Cranial Relief
programme in Thailand.
chivasom.com
linens, plus
a personal
sleep ambassador.
Monitor your sleep with a
sleep tracker, then get tips from a wellness
practitioner, trained by internationally
renowned sleep doctor Michael J. Breus (Ph.D).
sixsenses.com
THE SLEEP BAR
Has a Paris city break worn you out? If youre
after a good nights sleep, but dont have the
time, you can pay for a 25-minute nap at this
sleep bar. From 12 (10.55).
barasieste.com SAM LEWIS
IMAGES: GETTY; WWW.KATAROCKS.COM; CHAMPNEYS

TOP SLEEP TIPS

Choose tryptophan- // Try to exercise during the day or meditate to unwind //

and magnesium-rich
foods try a banana
and almond milk
smoothie // Dont use
electronic devices in the
hour before bedtime
rather than in the evening // Avoid Go to bed at a similar time
bright lights before you go every day, and aim
to sleep, and install black- for 7-9 hours
out blinds // Sleep in a cool sleep // Avoid
room 20C is the optimum caffeine and
temperature // Read a book alcohol

28 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 FOOD // SMART TRAVELLER

ta st e of
BUSH
TUCKER
Survival and bushcraft expert Ray Mears
reveals how to find food in the wild
forests that fringe the polar north

Ray Mears
A household name, thanks
to his TV series, which include
Tracks, and World of Survival.
His latest book, Out on the Land,
is a celebration of the history MAKE IT AT HOME

Northern exposure
and culture of the Northern
wilderness. RRP:
25. (Bloomsbury
Winter bannock
The boreal forest is the planets largest Publishing) Ingredients
and a truly awe-inspiring and majestic 2 cups plain flour
environment. Its a land of extremes, of 2 tbsp lard or oil
sultry heat and paralysing cold, where food 1/2 tsp salt
is difficult to find. In the forest, catering Find & forage 2 tsp baking powder
becomes simpler: a kettle filled with tea, Nettles can be used for Water to make the dough
a smoky bannock bread and some fresh cooking. Collect them 1 cup dried fruit
pike are enough. With time, you appreciate from a shady location
fresh berries or edible mushrooms as the ones growing in the Method
culinary marvels they are. Travelling here open are too bitter. Many Mix the dry ingredients,
demands efficient cookery skills, a repertoire plants can be dried for use as minus the fruit.
of recipes in your memory and the ability to wild teas, including mint, birch, Add water slowly, mixing to a
supplement your supplies from the land. wild raspberry, wild strawberry, soft dough with fingertips.
blueberry and fireweed, to Fold in the dried fruit.
Catch of the day name but a few. Many berries Put frying pan on heat and
Fishing in the boreal forest neednt be can be encountered in the add oil/lard. Once hot, spread
complicated Arctic char and northern forest. Take a good field the dough out in the pan to a
pike are abundant. Try to fish in the guide with you and learn thickness of 2cm.
early morning and towards last light to distinguish between When the dough is firm
in places with steep drop-offs, where the edible and poisonous enough, set the pan at a tilt
theres weed. Being able to catch varieties; being able to one side of your fire. Grill
and eat fish on a journey provides to recognise a few of the bannock, rotating it and
a deep spiritual connection to the the tastiest and most turning it over until a sliver
land. The traditional way to cook common of these can of freshly shaved wood
fish is on a sapling skewer angled really enliven the trail skewered into the centre
beside the hot embers. menu. raymears.com comes out dry.

March 2017 31
LOCATION :
Nanda De v i C a m p 0 3
1979

PACK:
Expediti o n S e r i e s
1967

In 1967 we made a backpack that changed the world forever.

The Expedition was the rst pack to feature an internal frame.
It became a blueprint for every pack made today. Fifty years on
we are still doing what we love, designing the best backpacks
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 ON THE TRAIL // SMART TRAVELLER

Baku
ARCHITECTURAL TOUR IN

The Azerbaijani capital boasts eye-catching architecture old

and new. Farida Zeynalova explores the best of her hometown

1 // FLAME TOWERS 3 // MAIDEN TOWER 4 // SHIRVANSHAHS PALACE

Start at the soaring Flame Towers,
which, at almost 800ft high, is
visible from across the city. Come
night, its 10,000 LED luminaires
flicker like burning flames this is
the Land of Fire, after all.
Walk north along Neftchilar
Avenue to Azerbaijans most
emblematic building. Climb the
eight floors of this myth-ridden,
cylindrical tower for panoramic
views of the city and Caspian Sea.
Saunter north-west along the
Old Citys cobbled lanes to this
historical site once home to the
Shirvan rulers of the 15th century.
UNESCO describes it as one of the
pearls of Azerbaijans architecture.

2 // AZERBAIJAN CARPET MUSEUM

Take the funicular to Bahram
Gur and walk to the striking
Azerbaijan Carpet Museum.
Its built to resemble a huge
rolled rug, and houses over
10,000 carpets and items of
6
traditional clothing.

5 6 // AZERBAIJAN STATE ACADEMIC

OPERA AND BALLET THEATER
Head north-east to catch a
traditional performance at this
20th-century gothic opera house.
The building mysteriously burned
4 down in 1985, but was restored and
re-opened two years later.

5 // NIZAMI MUSEUM OF 7 // GOVERNMENT HOUSE

AZERBAIJANI LITERATURE
Stroll along Boyuk Qala until
you reach this palatial museum,
named after acclaimed poet
Nizami Ganjavi. Its facade
ILLUSTRATION: TILLY RUNNINGFORCRAYONS.CO.UK
Its back to Neftchilar Avenue for
the citys most extravagant Soviet-
era edifice. This stern beauty is
the work of architects Lev Rudnev,
V.O. Munts and K. Tkachenko, and

features patterned arches and overlooks the stomping ground of

carved statues of literary greats. locals: Baku Boulevard.

HEYDAR ALIYEV
CENTRE
Marvel at the elaborate
undulations of this Zaha
Hadid masterpiece on Heydar
Aliyev Avenue. The multi-functional complex earned the British-Iraqi
architect London Design Museums Design of the Year in 2014.
azerbaijan.travel

March 2017 33
SMART TRAVELLER // ROOMS

WHERE TO STAY

GOTHENBURG
Venture out from Swedens second-largest city
to discover the wilds of the west coast and bed
down in true Scandi style. Words: Julia Buckley

1 KAJKANTEN
Escape the hustle and bustle on car-free Vrng
island, just an hours drive from the city centre.
Harbourside boathouses come with a floating sauna
and sea-view hot tub, and the journey into town via
boat and tram is a truly idyllic commute. From 58
per night. kajkantenvrango.se

2 LDFABRIKEN
Once a factory producing wooden crates,
Ldfabriken 90 minutes from Gothenburg is
now a boutique hotel with an eclectic, modern design.
Enjoy views over the Skagerrak Sea from this colourful
clifftop B&B. From 134 per night. ladfabriken.eu

3 KOSTERGRDEN
Its a five-hour trip to South Koster Island, but this
collection of beachside cabins is well worth the
journey. Tuck into fresh seafood, while away evenings
at the rooftop bar and discover Swedens only marine
national park. From 139 per night. kostergarden.com

4 BALDERSNS HERRGRD
Set beside the Dalsland Canal in the heart of Swedish
lake country, this 200-year-old country estate lies
two hours north of Gothenburg. Spend the night in
the mansion or cosy up in lakeside cabins. From 104
4 per night or 510 per week. baldersnas.eu

34 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SMART TRAVELLER // FAMILY
WORKING HOLIDAYS
MAKING A
difference
Go somewhere spectacular, do something unusual,
make new friends, preserve the environment and
gain new skills in the process?
AT LOGGERHEADS IN GREECE
Join a team of international
volunteers conserving
endangered loggerhead turtles in
Giannitsochori, one of Greeces
most important nesting areas.
For teens aged 15-17 years old.
Two weeks from 1,800.
gvi.co.uk/programs/volunteering-
under-18s-greece/
FANCY MILKING A COW IN NEPAL?
Try a farm-working holiday with
a difference with Volunteering
Journeys. Youll have a chance to
plant crops, and generally help
out with spare time spent hiking,
zip-lining, visiting waterfalls and
lakes plus touring cities. This new
collection of family volunteer
trips features destinations
such as India,
Sri Lanka, Nepal,
Thailand and
South Africa.
Journeys cost
from 499
per person.
volunteering
journeys.com
36 natgeotraveller.co.uk
UK SCRUBS UP
Book an Easter eco-
adventure at the
Stackpole Estate,
in Pembrokeshire,
where you can take
part in conservation
tasks such as scrub
clearance, beach
cleaning and campfire
building. From 125 per
person for three nights.
nationaltrust.org.uk/features/
types-of-working-holiday
A WORLD OF ANIMALS
Responsible Travels volunteer
family trips include monitoring
sea turtle nests and protecting
hatchlings in Costa Rica;
marine conservation in
Thailand; volunteering
with monkeys or
horses in South
Africa; or a bear
sanctuary in Romania.
responsibletravel.
com/holidays/family-
volunteering
MARIA PIERI
DO SOMETHING BOOKY
World Book Day,
2 March
Here are our favourite bookish ideas
shared by teachers and librarians, to
celebrate the 20th year of World Book
Day UK. Children can get the official
World Book Day book for free in
exchange for the 1 token available to
all schoolchildren in the UK and Ireland.
1. BOOK BLITZ: Share a favourite book
with a friend. Read it to them and tell
them why you love it in one minute,
then swap.
2. WEIRD WRITE-ALL: Children write one
paragraph or page of a story and pass it
on to create a combined story.
3. CHARACTER STUDY: Children present
their favourite literary character to
classmates, talking about the values
they represent.
4. RUN A BOOK SWAP DAY OR FESTIVAL
OF THE IMAGINATION: Create lots
of fairground stalls such as Swap
a Book, Hook a Duck, Madame
Bibliotheque or The Magic of Books
(with a real magician).
5. GUESS MY BOOK: A Who Am I?
quiz where teachers provide a title for
their own autobiography and children
have to match the teacher to the title.
6. SPELLING BEE: Have fun with words
like splendiferous and Gruffalo. Prizes
could be book vouchers or stationery.
7. READATHON RUN: A sponsored read
for a week or a month.
worldbookday.com
IMAGES: POD VOLUNTEER; OYSTER WORLDWIDE
TAKE A PAGE FROM
World Book WORLD BOOK DAY AND
Day UK has to WRITE YOUR OWN
date delivered Take inspiration from World Book
13 million 1 Day and write a travel blog or
books into the post an Instagram picture on
your next trip. Weve begun our
hands of young fortnightly family blog online.
people across natgeotraveller.co.uk/family
the country
 Do you want your holiday to
make a positive difference
to local people and
the environment?
Then relax, Travelife has it covered.
We check if a hotel protects the environment,
supports local businesses and treats their
employees fairly. Travelife Gold hotels and
their responsible management practices
make sure your holiday will be authentic,
rewarding and unforgettable. Choose a
Travelife hotel for a better stay.

Better Stays, Better Holidays

#Look4Gold

Travelifecollection.com
Twitter: @TravelifeHotels
Facebook: TravelifeCollection
Find Travelife Gold hotels at Travelifecollection.com
or book through all major Travel Agents

Travelife is a registered trademark and is owned by

ABTA Ltd, 30 Park Street, London SE1 9EQ, United Kingdom,
Registered in England No. 551311
Explore Nova Scotia
by bicycle
Canadas ocean playground

www.pedalandseaadventures.com

STAY AT
HOME Rye
From hillside homes and cobbled lanes
to vintage warehouses and Scandi
cafes, Rye is both overwhelmingly
quaint and refreshingly on trend
WE LIKE
Mermaid Street is regularly touted
as one of the prettiest roads in
Britain. Start at the bottom of the
hill and work your way up, past
the affectionately named House
with Two Doors and The House
Opposite. The Mermaid Inn,
dating back to the 15th century,
was once the drinking den of
choice for smugglers but today
entertains more refined groups
around its open fire. At The
Parish Church of St Mary, climb
the tower to gaze out over mossy
roofs, the quaint harbour and
Romney Marshes.
Where to eat
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
95% of ingredients used in The Gallivants
kitchen are sourced from fishermen and
farmers who live and work within 10
miles of the hotel. thegallivant.co.uk/eat
UK // SMART TRAVELLER
Where to stay
Roaring fires, roll top
baths and sheepskin
throws await you at
The Gallivant, which
offers spacious, well-
appointed rooms. Plus,
its only a stones throw
from the impressive
dunes of Camber
Sands. thegallivant.co.uk
What to do
Vintage shopping from
Wishbarn Antiques to McCully
and Crane, Rye is heaven for
homeware hunters. The town is
full of independent stores. In fact,
youll be hard-pushed to find a
chain. Drop by The Fig for a coffee
break amid Scandi-style designs.
DON'T MISS
The ancient town of Winchelsea
and its architectural quirks sit on
an outcrop above marshes. Stock
up on local produce at the farm
shop, visit the Black Cat Gallery
and swing by the Church of St
Thomas the Martyr to see Spike
Milligans grave. Check out his
Gaelic epitaph, translated as: I
told you I was ill.
JOSEPHINE PRICE
visit1066country.com
March 2017 39
 Whether you are looking for accommodation only,
bed and breakfast or special packages,
we will nd you the best holiday!

RENTING OUT CHALETS AND APARTMENTS SINCE 1988. VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFORMATION

info@zermattholidays.com www.zermattholidays.com
Word The
BOOKSHELF // SMART TRAVELLER

FLIGHTS OF
FANTASY
Abstract art, ingenious architecture and quirky facts
collide in this glossy photography book about the
worlds most beautiful airports

This lavish guide to the worlds tell a tale, some more fantastical
most architecturally weird and
wonderful airports covers hubs
like Madrid and Los Angeles
than others. Take strange, craggy,
copper-clad creation The Rock,
an extension to New Zealands
Ge the guides
but also celebrates the obscure Wellington International Airport. SCOTTISH BOTHY BIBLE
delights of, say, Queen Tamar Based on the ancient Mori legend A look at Scotlands
Airport in the Georgian ski town The Art of the
of two sea creatures, Ngake and unique network of bothy
of Mestia. The modernist, Airport: The Worlds Whataitai, it was designed to cabins and mountain huts:
L-shaped tower sits like a Most Beautiful Terminals resemble the Cook Straight oft-overlooked tourist
lost Lego block amid the by Alexander Gutzmer, cliffs, through which one of the accommodation frequently
stark beauty of the Caucasus Laura Frommberg and monsters threw itself on route found in stunning beach
Mountains. Sadly, Mestia never Stefan Eiselin. RRP: 25 to exploring the oceans. highland or moor locations.
drew sufficient tourist numbers (Frances Lincoln). There are enough facts here RRP: 16.99 (Wild Things
to merit this quirky terminal being to make airport geeks giddy, Publishing).
awarded an international airport code. including a boarding pass panel for
Then theres the flying saucer-shaped each entry, citing passenger and runway PLANE CLEVER
Daocheng Yading Airport in Tibet, the numbers, plus practical details like distance Christopher Bartletts The
worlds highest civilian airport only just from the nearest city and tips on local Flying Dictionary is full of air
within the realms of our planets habitable duty-free novelties. Be still our quivering travel facts and stats, plus
atmosphere, at 14,472ft. Airports always departure boards. SARAH BARRELL tips and tricks for saving
money, staying safe and
being savvier from booking
WISE WORDS to touchdown. RRP: 10.33
(OpenHatch Books).
The podcast
From BBC Radio 4 doc series Seriously..., The Green
Book looks at the titular segregation-era guidebook STAR RATED
that listed hotels, restaurants and bars that served Star-Rated: The Official
African Americans. bbc.co.uk/programmes/p04kcl5y Tourist Boards Guide has
reviews of over 500 places
The storybook to stay in the UK, from hotel
Stories For Ways and Means is a collection of dark and hostels to farmstays,
tales by Nick Cave, Frank Black, Laura Marlin, Tom
campus accommodation,
Waits and 25 other musicians. sfwam.org
boats, glamping pods and
The soundtrack holiday parks. RRP: 7.99
Live feeds from police scanners and emergency (Hudsons Media).
channels in cities across the world set to ambient
music. youarelistening.to

March 2017 41
 Q30
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 in
A FIVE-STAR TRIP FOR
TWO TO MADEIRA
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With luxury tour operator, Inspired Luxury
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A superb spa harnesses the natural healing
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equipped fitness centre and a range of sports Leading Island Destination 2016 at World
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March 2017 43
SMART TRAVELLER

Eents 2 0 1 7 2 MAY 2017

TRAVEL GEEKS: RUSH HOUR
Japan
Sponsored by Intrepid
A land of ancient traditions,
tranquil beauty and mystique, but
also a place of modern megacities
and relentless innovation few
countries captivate as much as
Japan. Join our panel as they share
their stories and tips: from when and
where to visit, to how to navigate this
unique and fascinating culture.
WHERE: Intrepid UK, 4th Floor, Piano
House, 9 Brighton Terrace, Brixton,

28 TRAVEL GEEKS: CYCLING

London SW9 8DJ
TIME: Tuesday, 2 May 2017 from 18.30
MARCH
Sponsored by Intrepid Travel to 19.30
PRICE: 10 (includes a drink
TIME: plus nibbles)
18.30 to 19.30
Whether youre a seasoned cyclist or biking beginner, WHERE: Intrepid UK, 4th
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join our expert panel as they discuss great places to
Terrace, Brixton,
explore by bike, the best options for a cycling holiday
London SW9 8DJ
and guided or self-guided tours TICKETS: 10
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Jumping onto a bike is one of the best ways to discover a region: nibbles)
from secluded castles in rural France to the leafy lushness of Kerala,
the world can easily be explored at your leisure. Whether youre an
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or simply wanting to get a handle on cycling, our panel will answer all your
questions about where to go, what to do and how to do it. No need to bring
your bike for now all you have to do is come armed with a curious mind,
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TRAVEL GEEKS: RUSH HOUR
Food & drink
THE PANEL Sponsored by Intrepid
Food and drink are always high on
the travel agenda, and whether its
through the barbecues of Nashville
or on a tapas trail of Seville, you can
dig into the destinations history
and culture through its kitchens.
Our expert panel will be on hand
STEPHANIE EMILY CHAPPELL MATT HAMPTON FRANK CHESHIRE MATT CARROLL to answer all of your culinary
CAVAGNARO Emily has crossed Matt is a freelance Frank heads up Matt is a freelance quandaries, including the best food
Senior Editor Asia by bike, cycled writer, and former Intrepid Travels writer for National
tours and the cuisines to look out for
of National through the Alaskan Deputy Travel new cycling range. Geographic
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Geographic and Canadian Editor at The He started as a tour Traveller, The
WHERE: Intrepid UK, 4th Floor, Piano
Traveller, Stephanie winters, and won Sun. He has a leader 15 years ago, Sunday Times and
IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO

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44 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Could you end up here?

Where will your clues take you?

While youre flipping through pages,
were flipping travel on its head.
Discover the new treasure hunt based
travel experience at cluventuretravel.com

Photos: Monica Stefanac

or here?
 www.rockiesheli.com
Experiences above and beyond Ordinary

By far, our most memorable experience in the Rockies

Colin Smythe Family- Leeds
 BIG SLEEP AWARDS 2017

HAVE YOUR SAY

"Comfiest "Rural
b ed " "Lochaelro" "Kids retreat "
"Free wi-fi" i m
"Swar" -u p cl ub " "Ocean view"
b "Urba
refo o t n "C oncierge
B a
" luxury" hideaway" tips"

Nominate your favourite hotel or place to stay in our three Readers categories
and you could win an iPad Mini as part of our annual Big Sleep Awards. The
winners, picked by our panel of experts, will be revealed in the Jul/Aug issue

Home from home

UNITED KINGDOM
The staycation. The great British break. Be
it a cosy cabin outside Cardiff, a boutique
boudoir in Belfast or an Edinburgh hotel
oozing with lan, we want to celebrate the UK
properties that rolled out the red carpet for
you. Who deserves a medal?
IMAGE: LES BAINS
Euro stars
EUROPE
Youve not felt this rested in years. Perhaps
youre back from a lazy day at the beach and
youve just uncorked a gutsy Rioja. Maybe room
service is on its way. This is your European
break and your accommodation has surpassed
all expectations. Go on, tell us more.
Far-flung fancy
BEYOND
Excellence comes in many guises, but stellar,
standout hotel stays linger in the mind. This
is the stuff of office daydreams. The style, the
ethos, the food, the service: this hotel was
the Cullinan Diamond in the crown of your
long-haul trip. Give us the details.

NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL AT NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/BIGSLEEPAWARDS BEFORE 30 MARCH

March 2017 47

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // SAMANTHA WILSON
TILA, HONDURAS BAY ISLANDS
A magical first dive with a whale shark in the waters off this idyllic Central
American cay inspired a fascination with this leviathan of the deep
T
he captain of our little boat pointed
nonchalantly towards the horizon,
to what appeared to be an innocuous
gathering of seagulls. Its a boil, he said
in his heavy Caribbean drawl, although his
explanation left me none the wiser. But as
the boat inched closer I could make out a
furious melee swirling just under the surface
of the gently sloshing sea. Fish jumping in
silvery panic, as though the water was indeed
boiling, the seagulls swooping in noisily for
easy pickings. And, in the midst of it all, a
vast shadow, its cavernous mouth opening
like an image from Moby Dick to filter gallons
of water through its gills in one giant gulp. A
whale shark.
As the captain killed the engine and
gave the signal, I slipped into the bath-
warm water, snorkel and heart in mouth.
As I peered beneath me, there it was: the
largest fish in the oceans. An eight-metre-
long whale shark, the size of a minibus,
sashaying effortlessly just inches from my
fin tips. I held my breath as it glided past; its
magnificent pointed tail propelling its navy
and white-spotted body with ease. I kept
pace for a few minutes, eking out every last
second of this magical encounter. But with
a flick of its tail it dived into the inky blue
depths, just off tilas north shore.
Ive always travelled to find wildlife from
the depths of the Brazilian Pantanal to the
wilds of Alaska. Yet it was swimming with
whale sharks in Honduras Bay Islands that
was the true impetus for writing my book.
The island of tila is a mere blip of cay rising
from the Belizean Reef. Id gone there to take
advanced scuba diving courses, and planned
to stay three months. I stayed three years. In
that time I had many special encounters with
the descendants of Old Tom, a legendary and
gargantuan, barnacle-encrusted whale shark
that, locals say, once plied these waters.
Its hard to say exactly why I stayed in tila
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
so long. Its a question I ask myself years later.
Its the quintessential tropical paradise, where
translucent waters wash over coral reefs
buzzing with psychedelically coloured fish,
and pelicans swoop over slithers of beach. But
the allure of life on tila went deeper than
that. Here, the rules of life and society as I
knew it were different to those of the outside
edges, raw, simple and always unpredictable
descendants of British and Dutch pirates,
only understanding half of what they said. Id
Fish were jumping in silvery
panic, as though the water was
boiling. Seagulls swooped in
noisily for easy pickings. And,
in the midst of it all, a vast
shadow, its cavernous mouth
opening like an image from
Moby Dick to filter gallons of
water through its gills
SMART TRAVELLER
world. Materialism was pointless, for there
were few shops. Vegetables were scarce, yet
the rum never ran out. It was rough around the
like living in a Caribbean soap opera.
Thats because tila revels in its
eccentricity, its loud, charismatic inhabitants
shoe-horned into one end of the isle by a
gnarled and impenetrable mangrove forest.
Stilted, pastel-coloured wooden houses line
the waterfront; elderly fishermen standing
in their doorways, loudly regaling passersby
with the same stories theyve told for decades.
The rickety jetties of the dive centres jut into
the horseshoe bay, and a handful of bohemian
bars play the ubiquitous reggaeton music.
tila is too small for cars; in their place,
scooters, golf carts and rusty old bicycles
tootle up and down the main street, weaving
between ambling pedestrians, scuttling red
land crabs and prehistoric-looking iguanas.
I spent my days diving reefs that became
as familiar as my hometown, chugging out
on the dive boat into the pond-calm waters
of the bay in the crisp early morning as pods
of dolphins hundreds-strong leapt together
in a choreographed dance. Evenings were
spent under the starriest of night skies
in the company of locals who are proud
slip silently through the mangroves by kayak,
get caught up in the fervour of carnival, and
quickly tire of the rainy season, despite it
bringing respite from the sticky heat.
That first encounter with a whale shark was
my most special. But there were many more
during my years in tila, and my fascination
with a gentle animal we know so little
about deepened each time. Old Tom and his
comrades hold a special place in the heart of
tilians; their pride in and protectiveness of
the placid animal that frequents the waters
off their tiny island as infectious as their own
exuberance and big personalities. I know I for
one fell under the spell of the pirates of the
Caribbean and their very big fish.
Ultimate Wildlife Destinations, by Samantha Wilson, is
published by New Holland Publishers. RRP: 14.99.
samanthakwilson.com
@samanthakwilson
March 2017 49
SMART TRAVELLER
AMERICAN HUSTLE
Las Vegas doesnt hide from what it is a gaudy, neon church for all our
decadent, debauched and superficial cravings... and its all the more fun for it
as Vegas is the epicentre of American
decadence. The entire countrys
concept of indulgence radiates from
this spot. Its like a spiritual retreat for the
devil on your shoulder, a church for all the
shameful, superficial things that we desire
the most: money, sex and naked flesh. Here,
all that is debauched and shallow in US
culture has been poured into a neon mould,
covered in sparkle and somehow made right.
Its spectacular and wrong all at the same
time. Las Vegas is more than just a city in the
desert; its part of the American psyche itself.
Enormous replicas of the worlds great
landmarks line either side of the strip, a
four-mile road crammed with lights and
casinos. Its simultaneously larger than
life and shrunken down, like cartoon
caricatures of the real thing. As I walk down
it, Im surrounded by pastiches of stolen
cultures, pumped up, hollowed out and
wrapped in glittering lights: the gleaming
white castle of the Excalibur Hotel & Casino,
like somewhere Super Mario would live;
The Venetian Las Vegas, as if dreamed up
by Tony Soprano; an actual full-size roller
coaster circling a miniaturised New York
skyline. Its the real world transformed
into a theme park. Its Willy Wonka meets
Mob money and glitz. I half expect to
see Godzilla turn up and trample the entire
thing like a cardboard movie set. Its that
kind of place.
But damn is it fun. In a single night,
I throw shapes in a space ship, get lost
in a pyramid, have dinner serenaded by
gondoliers and end up in a mosh pit of
exactly three middle-aged men going crazy
to Blurs Song 2. And, yes, I was one of them.
I see volcanoes light up the street; fountains
perform water ballet and dancers dangling
from ribbon dressed in nothing but paint.
Everything is glitz, glamour, lit up and loud.
Feminism is on a break. Las Vegas, it seems,
is single-handedly keeping the worlds push-
up bra industry alive. Its nearly impossible
to look anyone in the eye. But thats also
whats wonderful about this city. There are
no taboos; you cannot go too far; the madder
you are, the better you fit in. Its skin and
lipstick and cash; pure unabashed American
hedonism. Strut or get swept away.
50 natgeotraveller.co.uk
VIEW FROM THE USA // AARON MILLAR
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
And then theres the gambling. I play
blackjack for an hour, win 50 bucks and
feel like James Bond. I play roulette for five
minutes, lose 100 and feel like George Lazenby.
Entire rooms are filled with slot machines
manned by smoking, undead automatons. But
gamblings not really what Vegas is about any
more. More people come for the experience
now than to get rich. They come for a pure
undiluted dose of decadence itself. The food is
like a Greco-Roman orgy for your taste buds:
I eat wagyu beef at Rivea, on the 64th floor of
the Delano Las Vegas, and sip flaming sugar
cubes dipped in absinthe amid the golden
opulence of Sage, at Aria Resort & Casino. And
the shows are, quite simply, mind-blowing.
Im not a Cirque du Soleil guy (once youve
seen one fire-juggling contortionist, youve
seen them all), but even I end up screaming
like a Belieber by the end. And the most
decadent experience of all isnt even on the
strip. On my last day, I take a helicopter ride
over Lake Mead, across the parched heat of
the desert and into the enormity of the Grand
Canyon itself, 5,000ft of crimson cliffs rising
up around me; the silver sliver of the Colorado
River far below.
But being out here makes you think. Miles
away from the skyscrapers and slot machines,
you see Las Vegas for what it is: a pimple
of neon and debauchery in a wilderness of
silence and red stone. It may not be the end
of the world, the late, great Robin Williams
said. But you can certainly see it from there.
And hes right: theres something apocalyptic
about a city built on our most base desires, as
if were witnessing civilisation devolving to its
lowest form. But theres something liberating
about it too. And thats the point. American
decadence isnt about exclusivity; its about
embracing your demons. Thats what the
church of Las Vegas is all about. Let the beast
out. Party with your bad self. After all, what
happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. And damn is
it fun. lasvegas.com delanolasvegas.com
aria.com 5starhelicoptertours.com
British travel writer Aaron Millar ran away from London
in 2013 and has been hiding out in Colorado ever
since. His latest book, 50 Greatest Wonders of the
World, is published by Icon Books. RRP: 8.99.
@AaronMWriter
ONLINE
The
Blog
SOUTH KOREA
RETURN OF
THE MERMAIDS
A new generation of female divers is reviving
a dying fishing tradition on Jeju Island
T
heir whistles are eerie, otherworldly.
From my perch on the black, wave-
splattered rocks of the volcanic beach,
they seem to be coming from every direction.
Shrill echoes reminiscent of marine
mammals. But these strange high-pitched
wails are human. And theyre getting closer.
This is remote Jeju Island, 105 miles off the
southern coast of South Korea. The sharp
whistles announce the arrival of a team of
haenyeo the islands legendary sea
women. Variously described as everything
Wetsuits that have from the last mermaids to the Amazons of
Asia, haenyeo have been farming these
been darned countless waters for over 400 years.
times hang like rubber Plunging to depths of up to 65ft on just one
breath, they expertly harvest everything
curtains around the from shellfish and seaweed to abalone and
most valuable of all conch shells. Then,
mermaids, as one of the returning to the surface, they emit the
women proudly lists her sumbisori, a whistling sound created by the
rapid expulsion of carbon dioxide and intake
great-grandchildren of oxygen, before diving back down again.
52 natgeotraveller.co.uk
As this particular pod emerges from the
waves, each of the 10 dripping sea sirens
hoists a net bulging with her aquatic spoils.
Moving easily under the heavy loads (and
disguised beneath hooded wetsuits and
snorkelling masks), its easy to assume these
are women in the prime of their lives. As they
pull up their masks to greet me, however, it
becomes apparent theyre somewhat older.
A short time later, Im sitting cross-legged
with the haenyeo inside their bulteok.
Roughly translated as warm place, its a
simple stone changing room-cum-dining
room-cum-common room, a few feet from
the beach. Wetsuits that have been darned
countless times hang like rubber curtains
around us as one of the women proudly lists
her great-grandchildren, while another
describes diving during the war and the
friendliness of the US sailors.
Despite their abundant energy and
obvious fitness, many of these eel-like
fisherwomen are well into their 70s and 80s.
 ONLINE

ost ead
VISIT US ONLINE AT Tune in to an unusual French dialect and discover the coolest
NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK places on the planet here are our most popular online posts
With daily updates, including
a blog every Tuesday and our
Travel Video of the Week each
Friday, get your fix of National
TRAVEL VIDEO
Geographic Traveller online OF THE WEEK
Michigan
This week, we whirl
through northern
Michigan, home to
As they talk, they use their hands to mime a sizeable chunk of
what theyre saying perhaps to help our the Great Lakes
translator, but more likely out of habit. shoreline, where
As soon as were in the water, were young everything comes
and strong again, says 87-year-old Hyun with a little pinch
Sun-jik. Beneath the waves, were real of quaint
mermaids. The others nod in happy
approval, most of them with THE COOL LIST
thick, black heads of hair to go 17 for 2017
LIKE THIS? READ MORE with their sparkling eyes and In our latest on-the-pulse Cool List, we reveal
ABOUT SOUTH KOREA childlike energy. There isnt a the not-to-be-missed culture capitals, hipster
ONLINE single walking stick in sight. hotspots, wild escapes and freewheeling
Until recently, the future destinations that are keeping it fresh in 2017
HITTING THE SLOPES
With South Korea hosting
wasnt looking bright for the
the 2018 Winter Olympic haenyeo. With their numbers
Games, the ski resorts of dropping at an alarming rate, SO TOM AND
Dragon Valley and as the younger women left for PRNCIPE
Phoenix Park are set to the mainland in their droves, The chocolate
gain fame on the world the South Korean government islands
stage, with proof that
stepped in to help establish Once the worlds
you really can ski at 2am
two state-of-the-art haenyeo largest producer of
EAT: SEOUL
training schools on the island. cocoa, the tiny
The Korean capital is a Then, last month, the haenyeo African islands are
pulsating vision of the became officially UNESCO- finally living up to
future, but when it listed as an Intangible Cultural their nickname again
comes to food, tradition Heritage of Humanity.
is everything. Think Their resurgence is a cause
dishes such as crunchy for celebration. As I arrive at FRANCE
kimchi and
the impressive Hansupul The accidental rebirth of Occitania
BYO barbecues
Haenyeo School, one of the two An ancient region in the South of France has
CITY LIFE: SEOUL
new facilities, a class has just risen from the ashes. Occitania is an area
Seouls transformation to finished and a cluster of doused in heritage and the intriguing
a high-tech city is almost trainees in their 20s are language marking out many of its inhabitants
complete, yet life here breaking open a pile of
remains communal, sea urchins. One of them
revolving around blow-out 26-year-old Lee Hyun-kyeng PRAGUE
meals and a centuries-old
insists I join them, pushing a Party for one
market culture
finger of urchin innards into Whats it like to be
my unsuspecting mouth. the only guest in a
The training is tough, but its about more one-room five-star
than just a job, she says. I believe its hotel 230ft above
important for young people to get involved, ground? We check
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ISTOCK PHOTO

to keep our old traditions alive. Our parents in to Pragues

generation didnt. Now its up to us to take exclusive Zizkov
over from our grandmothers. Television Tower
A new generation of eager recruits,
government funding and official UNESCO
recognition it appears the tide has now
turned for the real mermaids of Jeju Island.
Search for natgeotraveller on...
JONATHAN THOMPSON
FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+
visitkorea.or.kr FLICKR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM

March 2017 53
 Weekender
ZAGREB
Forgo the crowded Croatian coast and head inland for a
quirky, coffee-loving city with bags of condence, and a
wilderness of wild, blue lakes and tumbling waterfalls
WORDS: Stephanie Cavagnaro

Day 1
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY; STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO

GOING GREEN
Strossmayer Square is sizzling. Patties
cant hit hot grills fast enough for punters
at the Zagreb Burger Festival, where the
crowd are enjoying Balkanburgers and cold
brews. Since I lived here in 2009, Zagreb has
changed so much. It seems like theres loads
going on, says my partner, Dan. Damjan, our
guide, agrees: It used to be a very dull and
quiet city, but now we have a lot of festivals
every weekend something is happening.
The free event is only a brief stop were
walking the Green Horseshoe, a mile-long
series of parks, leafy squares and gardens.
The bucolic route also takes in several
stunning buildings from the Habsburg era,
such as the golden Art Pavilion and neo-
baroque Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb.
Beyond King Tomislav Square an oasis of
spouting fountains and flowers is the 11.6-
acre Zagreb Botanical Garden, a sanctuary of
secluded benches, ponds and over 10,000 plant
species. But its in the Upper Town where I find
some of Zagrebs quirkier attractions.
A climb to Stone Gate, the last remaining
medieval entrance to Upper Town, reveals
a Marian shrine with pews and flickering
candles, marking the spot where a fire in 1731
engulfed all but a painting of the Virgin. I
emerge in the historic hilltop district, where
manually lit gas lanterns line cobbled streets.
Its up here I visit St Marks Church, an
ode to the Croatian flag, with coats of arms
emblazoned against a red, white and blue
tiled roof. It faces the Lotrak Tower, a
13th-century fortified tower where a cannons
been blasted at noon each day since 1877. At
its base, I hop on the Zagreb Funicular the
shortest cable-car in the world and slide
back down to Lower Town before I can blink.

54 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOCKWISE: Zagreb Cathedral;
WWII Gri Tunnel; Museum of
Broken Relationships; Zagreb Burger
Day 2
LIKE A LOCAL
Festival; Cogito Coffee THREE
Croatias capital may not get the same level of TO TRY
attention as the coast, but its more than just
a gateway to the Adriatic. Its a self-confident
city experiencing a creative awakening with
Quirky museums
a series of regeneration projects, openings
and a newfound focus on local products
like coffee. Busy baristas steam and slosh
batches of java at Cogito Coffee, one of the
citys pioneering bean-roasters. I order their
speciality blend, Tesla. We dont drink
espresso its always coffee with milk, for
a longer sip, Damjan explains. Coffee
culture is closely linked to Zagreb.
Post-latte, we emerge onto Flower
Square. Its Saturday a day for the
Croatian pica, a social phenomenon
where locals and celebrities alike stroll,
shop and sip with the aim of being
seen. Its a must for us it shows a
provincial mindset, says Damjan.
We pass a crowd forming around the
mayor and a footballer as we head to the MUSEUM OF BROKEN
Gri Tunnel, a WWII relic that opened to the RELATIONSHIPS
public last summer. The walls are bare, but Founded by a former
there are plans for exhibitions or a museum couple, this museum
here, Damjan says. I emerge to find Art Park, a contains mementos of
former junky hangout thats been transformed failed relationships. Bizarre
into a graffiti-splashed open-air museum. exhibits, including stilettos
A few hours later, I scoff vegan fare and stun guns, have been
sourced from a local organic farm at Zrno donated from around
Bio Bistro, and head to Tkalieva Street, the world by members of
a pedestrianised lane lined with outdoor the broken hearts club.
boozers. At Rakhia Bar, I order a citrusy pale brokenships.com
ale from Zmajska Pivovara, a craft brewery
that opened in the city in 2014. Watching the
street swell with people, I remember Damjan
telling me it was once known for seedier
evening encounters; the ladies of the night
may be gone, but hedonism has remained. MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS
Nothing appears as it
should at this museum that
opened in late 2015. Set
across two floors, this is a
world where water flows
upwards, perspective is
warped in tilted rooms and
optical illusions line walls.
muzejiluzija.com

MUSHROOM MUSEUM
A fungi-filled space that
exhibits around 1,000
specimens, from rare
truffles to death caps.
Due to freeze-drying, the
mushrooms look as though
theyve just been picked.
For the fearless forager,
theres also lectures and
mushroom gathering
exercises.

March 2017 55
SMART TRAVELLER // WEEKENDER

Day 3
INTO THE WILD
Planks of wood are all that separate me from a
waterfall hissing below. In fact, cascades spurt
and stream into turquoise water everywhere I
look. Ive reached Plitvice Lakes National Park,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site two hours from
Zagreb. These 16 terraced lakes are connected
by hundreds of tumbling cataracts.
Fifteen miles from the Bosnian border, I
plunge into a forest of beech, spruce and fir,
where roots bulge like varicose veins and
stretch across worn tracks. From the upper
lakes, we descend through the trees, emerging
onto wooden boardwalks that zigzag above the
marble-green shallows. These take us through
reedy backwaters plied by carp and pike,
where moss and epiphytes spill from the rock.
Where water laps at a walkway, I stop to fill
my bottle. My guide, Jasmina, explains: The
average person who drinks this water daily
digests 180 kilos of rocks in their lifetime.
The high prevalence of limestone here has
splashed leaves white with calcium carbonate.
A boat takes us to the lower lakes, where
we find the pretty Milka Trnina Waterfalls,
named after a Croatian opera singer. This was
her favourite part, says Jasmina, pointing to
the short, sinewy, luminous blue cascades.
We walk in the shade of soaring cliffs,
staying out of the way of backpacks and
selfie sticks. A distant roar grows louder as
we approach Veliki Slap (Big Waterfall), an
imposing, 255ft-high torrent that throws up
curtains of mist. Its busy, and as I turn to
leave the packed area, Jasmina smiles. I also
prefer the upper part, she says. Its more
interesting. Its more wild.

DESIGN DISTRICT

Bathed in red, the Croatian

Design Superstore is a pop-up
shop and design exhibition space
with everything from ceramic
bowls to minimalist coffee tables.
Everything here is designed in
Croatia and many of the products
tell a story about Croatian heritage,
cultural habits and history, says
Marija Kata Vlai, the companys
PR manager. We also started a
project that aims to turn this whole
area into a creative zone. Design
District Zagreb was launched
last year, and will be held from
13-18 June 2017, with food stalls,
workshops, exhibitions and
urban gardens. designdistrict.hr
croatiandesignsuperstore.com

Bear mountain
// Cloaked in
flora, Medvednica
(Bear Mountain)
Rooms at Palace
is a playground for Hotel, in central Zagreb,
IMAGES: GETTY; STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO

from 87 a night, B&B.

Croats. Climb up to Rooms at Hotel Jezero, at
Plitvika Jezera, from 51,
Medvedgrad a B&B. Return flights from

medieval fortified Heathrow to Zagreb with

Croatia Airlines or British

town for views Airways, from 138.

palace.hr ba.com
over the red-roofed croatiaairlines.com
np-plitvicka-jezera.hr
city from 1,600ft. FROM LEFT: Croatian Design Superstore; betherezagreb.com
Plitvice Lakes National Park infozagreb.hr croatia.hr
pp-medvednica.hr

56 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Neighbourhood
LISBON
A shop selling nothing but colourful tins of fish; streets where revellers rest
their drinks on car roofs; a bar whose wine list is a pair of binoculars... Lisbon is
eccentric, unpredictable and, most of all, fun. Words: David Whitley

Few cities straddle a line between cuteness and bombast the way Lisbon does. On
one hand, a city of mazy mosaic-tiled pavements, centuries-old bookshops, thigh-
ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN

sapping hills and orange-tiled rooftops. On the other, the former trading hub of
the world, prone to celebratory monuments and chunky relics of a golden age.
There are also grandstanding modern additions that have leant cultural heft.
Crucially, though, somewhere in the middle of this it manages to be an awful lot of
fun. Low-cost, freewheeling, sun-splashed and youthfully inclined fun that adds
more than a touch of hedonism in a country with a relatively sober reputation.

March 2017 59
NEIGHBOURHOOD
Baixa
The Praa do Comrcio rather captures
the feel of the Baixa district. The giant
square connecting the Tagus River and
the city oozes grandeur, with a combo
of triumphal arch, symmetrical arcades,
equestrian statue focal point and
harmonious multi-balconied architecture.
But theres also a feeling of desolation,
with the vast majority of the square empty
where there could be cafe terrace chairs or
market stalls.
The square along with the rest of
Baixa was built after the 1755 earthquake
that devastated the city. Under the guiding
hand of the Marqus do Pombal, the
reconstruction saw Baixa become Europes
first modern city centre. A grid pattern
was imposed, and architectural continuity
replaced the uncoordinated jumble that
had existed for centuries. Churches were
incorporated in the grid rather than given
pride of place on their own squares a
strong power grab by the state at the
expense of religion.
60 natgeotraveller.co.uk
But many of the handsome, red-roofed
buildings lie empty, particularly above the
ground floor testament to the suburban
flight of the mid-20th century that gutted
Baixa, as it did so many other city centres.
However, Praa do Comrcio is taking
baby steps back to vitality. Its now lined
by genuinely interesting propositions. The
Lisboa Story Centre traces the citys history;
Wines of Portugal tells the story of the
countrys wine regions and offers tastings;
the Museu da Cerveja dips into beer history
and boasts some mighty fine tile art, but is
essentially a giant bar.
Similar life is returning to Baixas streets,
spurred largely by cheap rents. Several of
what are now among the worlds top-rated
hostels led the way, but a series of design-
leaning hotels have recently followed in
their wake.
A short stroll uncovers several
newcomers, too. Giftware shops that
go for the interesting and individual
rather than mass-produced and tacky,
wine stores that revel in the wide variety
of options they offer, cafes that mix
traditional pork sandwiches with a fine
array of fresh juices.
But in among this burgeoning of new
life, a few stalwart survivors remain. The
cheap rents that are attracting newcomers
have also helped those who braved out the
exodus to achieve some sort of renaissance.
Conserveira de Lisboa is just shelf after
shelf of tinned fish all wrapped in
colourful packaging that borders on art.
Chapelaria dAquino goes in for braces and
hats, whether hipster-friendly flat caps or
something a lady might wear if she had to
go to the races then dance a Charleston in
quick succession.
And, on Rua da Conceio, haberdasher
after haberdasher line up, seemingly
oblivious to how Baixa is morphing
around them.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Birds-eye view of Baixa;
Lisbon Cathedral; an evening in Bairro Alto; an Open
Day event at LX Factory; pasteis de nata

Bairro Alto
The striking bookends at either end are no
preparation for whats to come in the middle.
Pavilho Chins, at the top end of Bairro Alto,
is a mesmerising absurdity. Walls are lined
by cabinets stuffed full of everything from
dolls and teapots to model trains and ceramic
dogs. Paintings of Lenin are accompanied
by helmets and army hats hanging from
hooks, while a scale model boat dangles from
the ceiling. Waiters, in waistcoats and bow
IMAGES: HUGO GUERRA; GETTY; TURISMO DE LISBOA
ties, exercise scarcely concealed contempt
for patrons, very reluctantly bringing over
humongous cocktail menus. Its a bewildering
one-off sealed in its own fantasy world.
At the bottom end, the Bairro Alto Hotel
tops off its sumptuous yellow marble
bathrooms, high ceilings and tastefully classic
furniture with the most seductive of roof
terraces. Wicker chairs and sofas look out high
over the river under a white fabric awning, as
port and Champagne are gently slurped.
Between the two, however, all hell breaks
loose. Pity the long-suffering residents of
Bairro Altos main streets, who have to put up
with whats essentially a giant party going
on beneath them each night. Dozens of tiny
bars fight for attention on top of the hill. Their
names are largely irrelevant as hardly anyone
stays inside after theyve bought their drink.
Five-euro mojitos are advertised on every
sign, then sipped as groups amble along in
the open air. Cars get used as tables, with
Heineken bottles perched on their roofs in
between sips.
The remarkable thing about this glorious
shambles, though, is the atmosphere. Theres
no hint of aggression and no peacocking
image-consciousness. Its just natural, go with
the flow, joyful exuberance in no real need of
policing. Anywhere else, this would be a free-
for-all that quickly descends into brawling.
But theres something about Lisbons spirit
that makes it work.
Amid the cavalcade of identikit bars
tipping cheap cocktails into plastic glasses
are a few more interesting novelties. A Capela
is a prime example a converted chapel that
still has the old religious paintings all over the
walls, but now puts DJ decks in front of them.
NEIGHBOURHOOD
When in Lisbon
MOOCH THE MARKETS
Half of the Mercado da Ribeira,
in Cais Do Sodr, is a food court,
showcasing Lisbons top chefs.
The Feira da Ladra flea market,
in Graa, and more craftsy LX
Factory market, in Alcntara, are
also worth popping into.
RIDE THE ELEVADORES
A series of funiculars and lifts
makes short work of Lisbons hills.
Just 1.25 (1) per journey with a
prepaid Viva Viagem card.
ADMIRE AZULEJOS
Azulejo tile art can be found
all over Lisbon. The Museu do
Azulejo showcases impressive
examples from around the
country. museudoazulejo.pt
FIND THE FADO
Portugals soulful fado singing
is best experienced in the small
clubs and restaurants of the
Alfama and Graa districts.
ON THE WATERFRONT
Bairro Altos street-drinking scene
winds down from 2-3am, after
which ravers head to the riverside
Cais do Sodr district for big clubs
such as the raucous MusicBox and
African-tinged former warehouse
favourite B.Leza.
CAN IT
Canned fish have long been a key
Portuguese export, but rarely seen
as a delicacy. This is changing, with
restaurants popping up seeking
to make canned fish gourmet. Can
the Can Lisboa, in Baixa, is a strong
example. canthecanlisboa.com
March 2017 61
NEIGHBOURHOOD
CLOCKWISE: Bar 38 41; Feito ria Restaurant &
Wine Bar; Sunday brunch at Cafetaria Mensagem,
all the Altis Belm Hotel & Spa
Belm
When we opened, I thought people really
didnt know much about Portuguese wine,
Nelson Guerreiro, the sommelier at Enoteca
de Belm, tells me. So we ask what styles
people like, then try to match the best
wine for the dish. He hands me the wine
list. Its a pair of binoculars for reading the
labels on the shelves. This would once have
felt odd in Belm, which is where Lisbon
stores its museums. They cover everything
from Portugals Age of Discovery to model
ships, archaeology and royal carriages,
and the neighbourhood teems with people
dropping in for a few hours on a tour bus,
then disappearing. Once a separate town
to the west of Lisbon, Belm was barely
touched by the 1755 earthquake. This left
the now UNESCO World Heritage Site-listed
Manueline twins, the Tower of Blem and the
Jernimos Monastery, standing in all their
sumptuous late-Gothic-with-flourishes glory.
But it started to morph from being an
attractive, but dead, relic in 1992. The
humongous Centro Cultural de Belm was
62 natgeotraveller.co.uk
built to host Portugals presidency of the EU, MORE INFO
before being used to house art galleries and
Lisboa Story Centre. lisboastorycentre.pt
theatre spaces. Things stepped up a gear
Wines of Portugal. winesofportugal.com
in 2007, when the Museu Coleco Berardo
Museu da Cerveja. museudacerveja.pt
opened inside. Suddenly, Belm had a world- Conserveira de Lisboa. conserveiradelisboa.pt
class art collection, with Hockneys, Dals, Bairro Alto Hotel. bairroaltohotel.com
Mondrians and Warhols rubbing shoulders. Tower of Blem. torrebelem.pt
Theyre made accessible too, broken down Jernimos Monastery. mosteirojeronimos.pt
into artistic movements, and slotted around Museu Coleo Berardo. en.museuberardo.pt
courtyards full of sculptures. Altis Belm Hotel & Spa. altishotels.com
Hotel Jeronims 8. jeronimos8.com
And since the Berardo opened, hotels
Espao Espelho dgua. espacoespelhodeagua.com
like the waterside Altis Belm Hotel & Spa
Lonely Planet Pocket Lisbon. RRP: 7.99.
and Hotel Jeronims 8 have opened. So has golisbon.com
minimalist gallery-cum-cafe Espao Espelho visitlisboa.com
dgua, with deckchairs outside, overlooking
small pools and the Tagus. The area once
defined by tour bus throngs in shorts and
T-shirts is evolving, with the cultural blitz,
creating room for a discerning social scene.
And Nelsons wine list embodies that.
IMAGES: ALTIS BELEM
BRITISH AIRWAYS has four nights in Lisbon, staying
at the four-star Hotel Jeronims 8, from 354 per
person, room only, including return flights from
Heathrow. ba.com
 Eat
QUEENSTOWN
New Zealands adrenalin sports capital is no longer just for
bungee-jumping budget backpackers. From gourmet burgers
to farm fresh fine dining, this orchard and vineyard-backed
city is firmly on the foodie map. Words: Sarah Barrell

I
ts the smell, not the scale, of Queenstown
that most takes the senses by surprise.
Sure, the Southern Alps, which form a
towering green wall around the city, are
astonishingly massive. But the aroma of
grass and woodland, fern and farmland
has an almost divine purity about it. If
God did gardening, it would smell like this.
For all its fame as New Zealands outdoors
capital, Queenstown is also a place of frenetic
arable activity. While its peaks and lakes
crawl, buzz, seethe and hum with hikers,
bikers, paragliders and kayakers, in the
alluvial plains fanning out between the
mountains of the surrounding Central Otago
province, farmers are equally busy producing
some of the countrys best dairy, meats and
abundant fruits including award-winning
delicate strips of seaweed. I havent tasted
anything so earthy and yet so artfully
restrained since visiting Tokyo in fact,
owner Nao Higuchi hails from the Japanese
capital. Im only distracted from oooohing
out loud at its immaculate freshness by a
conversation on a neighbouring table.
An American woman and Australian man,
both dressed in fi nely tailored fitnesswear,
are discussing places they recently worked.
These include a yoga studio in Jasper,
Canada, a spa in the Maldives and a boutique
surf business in Australias Byron Bay. Its
hard not to be somewhat dazzled by their
cosmopolitan chatter, but it also underlines
how this little city has fi rmly inserted itself
on the well-to-do wellness circuit.
As the demographic of thrillseekers has
the gourmet variety. On offer at Fergburger:
prime New Zealand beef and lamb burgers,
loaded with all manner of homemade
relishes and mayos, and rejoicing in names
such as Sweet Bambi and Bun Laden. Here,
you can add queuing to your list of local
extreme sports this joint is open 21 hours
daily and there are people lining up around
the block every minute of each of them,
come hail, sleet or shine.
But if quinoa is more your kind of protein,
then there are new organic cafes aplenty. At
the Vudu Larder and Caf, start the day with
house-baked sourdough and local Otago
honey alongside a house-roasted flat white,
while the silverbeet (chard) and chicken
broth with pearl barley is very much a yoga
class for your tonsils.
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY; VUDU LARDER; BAILEY PEYROUX; AWL IMAGES

grapes. Yet, my fi rst food stop in town widened from beanie-wearing, Where Queenstown used to be a resort
involves none of these Kiwi farmland staples. backpacking 20-year-olds, so too town with a food problem, its now a
Down in the fluro-lit basement of a central has its food scene matured. Pizza foodie town with a resort
shopping centre, I fi nd Yama Express, a little and burgers still dominate, problem. In peak season at least,
sushi bar recommended by British chef Ben but theyre now likely to be theres little room to manoeuvre,
Batterbury, who heads the feted kitchens at
Queenstowns Rees Hotel. Unprepossessing
it may be, but its a winner for bargain, FIVE FOOD FINDS
moreish maki rolls jewelled with roe and
stuffed with king salmon, and crispy hoki BLUFF OYSTERS CENTRAL GREEN-LIPPED MOUNT COOK KAIKOURA
(hake) just-plucked from South Islands New Zealands best OTAGO LAMB MUSSELS Pair with ALPINE SALMON CRAYFISH Marketed
seafood-rich waters. bivalves thrive in The province was a Marlborough Fed by the cold as lobster in some
Raw fish propels me to my next stop too, the cold, clean voted the nations Country Sauvingnon fast-owing waters parts of the world,
Kappa, a rustic little wood cabin-style cafe waters of the best producer at and these large, of the Tekapo river, thanks to its sweet,
just above the mall. Among its 10 tables, on Foveaux Strait. the 2016 Glammies, avoursome some 2,297ft above eshy meat. From
the terrace overlooking the citys mountain- Visit the annual aka The Golden mussels from the sea level, at the the waters anking
backed rooftops, I eat a simple bowl of grilled Bluff Oyster Lamb Awards. same area, are worlds highest the South Island
eel on a plump bed of rice crisscrossed with Festival on 20 May. beeambnz.co.nz a real marvel. salmon farm. coastal highway.

64 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 CLOCKWISE: Vudu Larder; Queenstown
harbour view; bungee-jumping from Kawarau
suspension bridge; venison tataki at Kappa;
green-lipped mussels

March 2017 65
EAT
FROM LEFT: Autumn at Felton Road
vineyard, Bannockburn; freshwater
crayfish at Amisfield Bistro
its narrow streets densely packed with bars
and bistros rammed to the rafters with
hungry patrons.
Fleeing the fray, the older crowd has lately
been decamping to adjacent Arrowtown,
with its greenways and quiet cobbled
backstreets. At Chop Shop, with its vintage-
bike-parts-turned-lampshades and standout
dishes like Japanese pork belly pancakes and
tempura bluff oyster sliders, I begin to
understand whats drawing them 20 minutes
down the road. En route to this lovely, old
mountain-side mining town, you pass New
Zealands highest bungee jump, whiplashing
people 440ft above the Nevis River. But, if
you prefer to steady your nerves, youre in a
fine spot, as surrounding Central Otago is
prime Pinot Noir (not to mention Pinot Gris,
Chardonnay and Riesling) country.
Viticulturalists are as happy as adrenalin
junkies in the backcountry. Around the lake
town of Wanaka, an hour north of the city,
there are epic routes, from ranch-style
landscapes that wouldnt look out of place in
Wyoming, right up to glacier-topped
mountains, beguiling heli-bikers, iron man
competitors and hardy hikers, not to
mention hobbits film director Peter
Jackson has based numerous of his Tolkien
adaptations here. And in the deep valleys
that lay between earth and sky: a patchwork
of near-endless fruit orchards and vineyards
with enticing cellars. The best of these, not
least for sheer entertainment, has to be
66 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Felton Road, a small artisan winery in the
wilds of old Bannockburn mining country.
Looking like a cross between a medieval
wizard and an eccentric 1970s science teacher,
owner Nigel Greening walks pre-booked
visitors though the wine-making process of
his biodynamic vineyard literally.
Footsteps are the best, he says. Know
your vines, land, weather. That, for me, is
what biodynamics is about, not Harry Potter
stuff. Hes found Stone Age flints amid the
glacial dust that makes this terroir so
uniquely successful for Pinot Noir grapes.
Ancient Maori hunted here, chasing giant
moa [an emu-like bird] up dead-end valleys.
His tasting notes are even more colourful.
This has the persistence of a Jehovahs
Witness, he says, about one 2014 Pinot. But
the wine that stays in my mind and palate is
the Chardonnay: not oaky, not flinty and not
overtly fruity. It does cause upsets for those
expecting that Central Otago fruit bomb,
says Nigel. But we cant make enough of it.
Theres a real renaissance of interest.
Give me this wine, in this setting, and Ill
certainly drink to that.
Stay at the Queenstown Park Boutique Hotel,
from NZ$600 (341), including a breakfast menu
focused on local produce. queenstownparkhotel.co.nz
For packages, including international/domestic flights,
car hire, tours and stays at outlying food-focused
lodges, visit theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk
A TASTE OF
Queenstown
BLANKET BAY
This grand, hunting lodge-style
retreat in the frontier town of
Glenorchy offers resident guests
nightly five-course menus in the
lakefront dining room or terrace.
Showcasing seasonal New
Zealand produce, including
Canterbury quail, Hawkes Bay
lamb short loin and crayfish from
Milford Sound, with paired wines.
blanketbay.com
HOW MUCH: Rooms at Blanket Bay
cost from NZ$775 (440) per
person per night, including
pre-dinner drinks, five-course
menu and breakfast.
AMISFIELD
Much has been made of the Duke
and Duchess of Cambridge dining
at this winerys sleek modern
bistro. And you can see why
think mountain views, great
wines and mains such as crispy
Southern blue cod and sides such
as salt-crusted kumara (sweet
potato) with black garlic butter,
spring herbs and grains.
amisfield.co.nz
HOW MUCH: A four-course Trust
The Chef lunch with wine-pairing
costs $125 (71) per person.
MATAKURI LODGE
Dine over the water on mountain
backed Lake Wakatipu. The
contemporary, art-laden
conservatory restaurant is at the
centre of this plush resort,
10 minutes from downtown. The
daily changing seasonal menu
uses produce mostly drawn from
IMAGES: ALAMY; BENN JAE
local farms, markets and the
waterfront vegetable garden.
matakaurilodge.com
HOW MUCH: Rooms cost from
NZ$830 (471) per person per
night, including pre-dinner drinks,
five-course menu and breakfast.
 Sleep
SINGAPORE
From a beachside hotel with a chic Gallic-granny vibe to an
island retreat with a croquet lawn, accommodation in the
Lion City is an eclectic affair. Words: Lee Cobaj

From its multi-award-winning airport to its sci-fi architecture

and artsy enclaves, its clear Singapore loves intelligent design.
Its an appreciation that filters through to its hotel scene, where
youll find everything from grande dames to conceptualised
boutiques. Raffles Hotel is, of course, the most famous of them all
but a refurbishment means it will be off the radar for most of 2017.
However, theres no shortage of memorable alternative options.
Location isnt an issue in this tiny city state you can zip from
one end to the other in under an hour unless you want to zero
in on a particular interest. For food and drink galore, stay near
Chinatown, Club Street or the Jgermeister-fuelled Robertson
Quay and Clarke Quay. Shoppers should head for Orchard Road,
while Marina Bay and the historic centre are best for the citys
big-hitting (often free) attractions. The only downside? Singapore
has the priciest hotel rooms in Asia. That said, business hotels
often drop their prices at weekends.
IMAGE: GETTY

F
68 natgeotraveller.co.uk
For stain connected
HOTEL JEN
A family-friendly bolthole, weekend getaway, post-shop
flop... Hotel Jen will satisfy all-comers. The location is
solid; smack-bang in the middle of shopping central,
Orchard Road, attached to the ION Orchard mall, with an
MRT station down below and the world-class Singapore
Botanic Gardens a short stroll away. Rooms are on the
small side (as is usual for Singapore) but Jen has nailed
the necessities good coffee, powerful showers, decent
hair dryers, black-out blinds, loads of plug sockets and
free fast wi-fi (which comes without a laborious login
process). Elsewhere, there are cool sky gardens to hang
out in, a flash rooftop pool to cool off in and a great little
Malay-fusion restaurant for refuelling.
ROOMS: Doubles from 135, B&B. hoteljen.com

March 2017 69
SLEEP
ang or our buck
M SOCIAL SINGAPORE
Think of Philippe Starck and youll probably
think of ghost chairs, tripod lamps and
eye-watering price tags. But, at the golden
ones latest Singapore project you can bag an
overnight stay for less than 100, including
breakfast no mean feat in the Lion City.
Admittedly, the 205sq ft entry-level rooms
are tiny, but theyre smart and stylish, with
white-buttoned headboards and lighted
70 natgeotraveller.co.uk
mirrors pushed up against polished concrete
walls, as well as 3G-enabled smartphones
to help you navigate the city. Pay a little
more (about 35) and you can move up to
a cunningly designed duplex. Other perks
include a 24-hour gym, rooftop swimming
pool and free shuttle buses around town.
ROOMS: Doubles from 98, B&B.
milleniumhotels.com

For artsy types
HOTEL VAGABOND
Found on gritty-glam Jalan Besar,
between aromatic Little India and the
colourful shops of the Arab Quarter,
Hotel Vagabond is an art-filled bohemian
wonderland. Behind its art deco exterior,
Cubist paintings sit alongside scarlet
sofas and polished parquet, antique
telephones, golden elephants and banyan
tree chandeliers. The 41 rooms are equally
fabulous, with a chic Gallic-granny
vibe: crushed velvet ottomans, painted
floral panels and goose-y feather beds.
Facilities are scant, but the service is
super and the salon-like bar and Hot Buns
& Thunder Balls restaurant are popular
local hangouts.
ROOMS: Doubles from 115, room only.
hotelvagabondsingapore.com
SLEEP
For nihtlie
THE WAREHOUSE HOTEL
This handsome new 37-room hotel on
Robertson Quay set in a 19th-century
former godown (warehouse) is a heritage
hotel with a difference. No string quartets
and afternoon teas here; instead, guests are
greeted with warm pineapple tarts and spicy
cocktails. Rooms feel distinctly metrosexual,
with lashings of leather, dark rattans and
polished stone walls, not to mention organic
amenities from Ashley & Co. Theres also a
rooftop pool and a great restaurant serving
sexed-up Singaporean.
ROOMS: Doubles from 257, room only.
thewarehousehotel.com
For foodies
THE CLUB HOTEL
The Club resembles the kind of trendy British
inn you might find in Yorkshire or Bath, rather
than the back streets of Singapore. Housed
in a 1900s building, the 20 rooms have aged
wooden floors, herringbone armchairs and
fuzzy throws. Theres also a moody whisky
bar, homey coffee shop, brasserie and Peru-
inspired rooftop bar. Head for the Maxwell
Street Food Centre, a two-minute walk away,
for bucket-sized bowls of Singapore noodles,
baskets of dumplings and chilli chicken rice
for under 5.
ROOMS: Doubles from 129, B&B.
theclub.com.sg
For iews
THE FULLERTON BAY
Its eye candy all the way at The Fullerton
Bay, from the crystal chandeliers in the
dazzling white lobby and the glam clientele,
who clip-clop across its marble floors, to
the waterfronts triple-towered Marina
Bay Sands, the durian-shaped Esplanade
Theatres on the Bay, and the pretty historic
quarter. Its all best soaked up from a
poolside cabana at the chic rooftop Lantern
Bar or lounging on the deck at Clifford Pier.
Rooms are ogle-worthy: think burr-wood,
bronze, top-tech and Frette-wrapped beds.
ROOMS: Doubles from 265, B&B.
fullertonbayhotel.com
March 2017 71
 SLEEP

For desin buffs

NEW MAJESTIC HOTEL
One of the citys first true boutique hotels
and still one of the best. Inhabiting a
charming former shophouse in Chinatowns
conservation district, the 30 rooms were
designed by Singapores creative elite. While
some bedrooms drenched in ruby-reds,
others boast stepladders and tiny flower
gardens. Whichever you go for, inside youll
find baby-soft Ploh bedding, coconut-y
Kiehls amenities and free juices and soft
drinks. The Cantonese restaurant is less
memorable, but the surrounding streets
have their fair share of organic cafes and
dim sum parlours.
ROOMS: Doubles from 144, room only.
newmajestichotel.com

For swimmin ools

CAPELLA SINGAPORE
Wrapped around the jungle-clad hillside on
Sentosa Island, this remarkable hideaway is a
mash-up of two former colonial-era military
barracks with towering curved walls, airy
interiors and three lagoon-shaped swimming
pools. The spacious rooms (starting at a
chandelier-swinging 770sq ft) are sleek,
sensual affairs all dark woods, warm,
amber tones and touchy-feely fabrics. They
also come with balconies (from which you can
watch cockatoos canoodling in the treetops)
and spa-worthy bathrooms. Dining is pricey
but worth a splurge. The terrace at Bobs Bar is
the place to be at sundown.
ROOMS: Doubles from 320, room only.
capellahotels.com

March 2017 73
SLEEP

The wildcard
THE SANCHAYA BINTAN
The antidote to Singapores big-city kicks,
this island retreat a mere 45-minute ferry ride
from the citys shores. Ringed by ice-white
beaches and the gin-clear South sea, days can
be spent snorkelling with hawksbill turtles,
playing croquet or floating in the 50-metre
infinity pool where loungers come with
baskets of sun cream, cold towels and tiny
flags to wave at the staff when you require
another pia colada. Villas and suites are
decorated in stylish colonial chic: cool whites,
navy blues, dark bamboo and breezy porches.
ROOMS: Doubles from 560, B&B.
thesanchaya.com

For amering
MANDARIN ORIENTAL,
SINGAPORE
Situated in the Marina Square shopping
and entertainment district, the Mandarin
Orientals half-pyramid exterior looks dated.
Inside, though, its a different matter: the
lobby is a shimmering gold-and-black oasis
with glass elevators in the atrium. Rooms are
classy, never showy, in mauves, powder blues
and teal greens, with wood panels, tasteful
artworks and floor-to-ceiling windows for
sensational views. Head to the fabulous spa
to soak in the heat and water therapy rooms,
or to the glam outdoor pool or serene yoga
studio. Come evening, theres a new bar and
restaurant to discover every day of the week.
ROOMS: Doubles from 229, B&B.
mandarinoriental.com

74 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Beyond Expectation
Reside in luxury with exceptional service by your St. Regis Butler
at the address of prestige and elegance in the city.

The St. Regis Singapore

29 Tanglin Road t. +65 6506 6888 stregis.com/singapore
2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide.
@stregishotels
 CITY

IMAGE: ALAMY

76 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SMART
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

From the pop-up store

revolution and the gin-
bar renaissance to the
High Line bandwagon,
the dust never settles
on the worlds greatest
cities. Heres whats
in store for your
favourite metropolis

Words J U L I A B U C K L E Y
& DAV I D W H I T L E Y

March 2017 77
CITIES
The
comeback
hoods
FROM HOT TO NOT
AND BACK AGAIN
Once an area loses its cool status, it rarely
gets it back. But some neighbourhoods
are bucking that trend. Santa Teresa, in
Rio de Janeiro, was once an aristocratic
hilltop hood, where the rich built their
opulent mansions. But the area fell into
neglect when newly-accessible beaches
drove residents downhill. In recent years,
its taken a boho turn, and some of those
mansions are being turned into boutique
hotels. Casa Marques (casamarquesrio.com)
and Vila Santa Teresa (vilasantateresa.com)
capture the vibe nicely.
In Hong Kong, Causeway Bay flipped
from colonial cool to crass commercialism
its generally seen as mall heaven and
not much more. But now, some genuinely
talked-about joints are slipping into the
gaps. Alto has the islands go-to rooftop
terrace (diningconcepts.com/alto), while
the Seafood Room, with its fine fish and
harbour-view terrace, is the one everyone
wants to get a reservation for.
78 natgeotraveller.co.uk
But perhaps the biggest comeback kid
is Charlottenburg, in central Berlin. A
hive of decadence in the 1920s, then a
Cold War shopping hub, its fortunes
plummeted after the Wall came down,
and there was all that space and opportunity
to try things in the newly reunited former
GDR districts.
As rents rise and mass tourism softens
the edges in the nearby district of Mitte,
however, Charlottenburg is on the rebound.
Most of the action is centred around Zoo
Station, where the hip brand- and indie
store-filled Bikini Berlin (bikiniberlin.de)
concept shopping mall has a roof terrace
overlooking Berlin Zoos baboons. Theres
also the C/O Berlin (co-berlin.org), which
pulls in first-rate photography exhibitions
and has chosen to shift from Mitte to
Charlottenburg. The hotels the Hotel Zoo
Berlin (hotelzoo.de) is filled with design flair
and transforms into a popular nightspot
with DJs after dark and restaurants are
now pouring in too, while bars are cropping
up under the railway arches. Its not the new
Mitte but its a significantly more fun
revamp of the old Charlottenburg. DW
CLOCKWISE : Chef at Alto, Hong Kong; the Big River
Crossing, Memphis; Galerie dApollon, the Louvre,
Paris; Junkyard Golf Club, Manchester
IMAGES: ALTO /2016 WHAT THE FOX?; 2014 MUSE DU LOUVRE;
CARL SUKONIK | THE VAIN PHOTOGRAPHY
 CITIES

MEMPHIS LINK- UP

Conquering the mighty Mississippi usually

means pootling along it in a paddle steamer.
But, as of October 2016, theres another option:
traversing it on the Big River Crossing in
Memphis, the longest public pedestrian/bike
bridge across the river. bigrivercrossing.com

ART Y PARIS

Frances capital is going heavy on its city

of art reputation this year with major
exhibitions including Vermeer at the Louvre,
Pissarro at the Monet Museum, Cy Twombly
at the Centre Pompidou and a centennial
Rodin exhibition at the Grand Palais all
running in spring. louvre.fr grandpalais.fr
centrepompidou.fr

J U N K YA R D G O LF

A mini-golf revival is long overdue, and

Junkyard Golf Club has managed to
make the activity cool in London and
Manchester. Courses are put together
using junk salvaged from antiques shops
and warehouses, burgers and cocktails are
served up on the side and DJs do their best
to put off the putters with their furious
beats. junkyardgolfclub.co.uk

HAVANA HOTE LIE R S

Havanas hotel boom shows no sign of

abating. Starwood, which last year became
the first US hotel brand to enter Cuba, plans
to reopen the historic Hotel Inglaterra as
a Luxury Collection property in March.
Kempinski is poised to take over the Manzana
de Gomez another grande dame having
new life breathed into her. Elsewhere, a Sofitel
So and an MGallery are being built, while
Iberostar has just taken the reins of the Hotel
Riviera. starwoodhotels.com kempinski.com
accorhotels.com iberostar.com

March 2017 79
CITIES

FROM TOP: Food trucks at MadrEat Market;

Serge Attukwei Clottey, My Mothers
Wardrobe installation at Gallery 1957, Accra

BOOMING ACCRA
IMAGES: XXXXXXXXX; XXXXXXXXXX

Its emerged as a creative hub in recent years,

and the Ghanaian capital is adding to its
modern art galleries and swish restaurants
this year with Carbon, a new club from
London impresario Nick House; one of the
biggest spas in West Africa at the Kempinski
Hotel Gold Coast City Accra; and Gallery 1957,
opened by Marwan Zakhem. thisiscarbon.com
gallery1957.com kempinski.com

80 natgeotraveller.co.uk

IMAGES: MADREAT/CARLOS MONTENEGRO;
FOOD TRUCK MADRID
GALLERY 1957/NFONINGRAPHY
The Foodie Week Madrid, a covered market
for six days every month, attracts scores
of food trucks, like La Pulponeta serving
octopus burgers and La Trastienda Tapas.
MadrEat Market, meanwhile, held in a
park in the AZCA business district, brings
together trucks from standalone ventures
and restaurants every third weekend of the
month. foodieweekmadrid.com madreat.org
MARKET TIME IN PORTO
Time Out Market Lisbon stalls showcasing
hot chefs, restaurants and food producers
from around the city has been a hit. So
now the concept is getting a baby brother in
Porto. The space for 500 seats, 15 restaurants,
four bars, four shops, one cafe and one art
gallery in the So Bento train station is
scheduled to open in the second half of this
year. timeoutmarket.com
CITIES
FOOD FUN IN BOLOGNA
Some of Italys theme parks are rather
less ride-heavy than others. Eataly World,
which will open later in the year on the
outskirts of Bologna, is all about the nations
favourite pastime food. That means
interactive displays and workshops delving
into the entire food chain, 25 restaurants to
choose from and tasting-centric markets.
eatalyworld.it
March 2017 81
CITIES

new
The

High Lines
THE RISE OF THE
PE D E S TR I A N H I G H WAY

New York City realised it had a hit on its

hands well before the final phase of the
High Line opened in 2014. New Yorkers
and visitors alike took to the linear park
concept like flies to the proverbial, and
the former railway line became the citys
new favourite open space. The plants
have grown, the art installations have
mushroomed, and the 1.8-mile shortcut
through Midtown has become anything
but utilitarian.
Other cities saw the results and have
been eagerly leaping on board. Chicago
went bigger and longer. The 606, a former
freight rail line stretching through up-
and-coming neighbourhoods to the north
west of downtown, opened in 2015. Its only
now that its coming into its own, though.
The slightly bouncy blue rubber surfacing
was seized upon by cyclists and walkers
straight away, but the whole thing looked a
little samey and lacking personality. Now,
however, the art projects are arriving and
the plants are flourishing. The connections
to neighbouring public parks are being
harnessed, making the whole thing a
system rather than a straight line.
Torontos take on the idea involves
using the space under the hideous
Gardiner Expressway. As well as serving CLOCKWISE: Cyclists and walkers share The 606
as a scenic gateway to the Lake Ontario
PUBLIC LAND; AUBERGINE BISTRO/MEGAN SWANN, SMALLMAN

trail, Chicago; cold risotto dish at Aubergine

waterfront, The Bentway (thebentway. Bistro, Smallman Galley, Pittsburgh; rooftop
IMAGES: ADAM ALEXANDER/COURTESY OF THE TRUST FOR

ca) will slot 55 outdoor rooms under pool, EAST, Miami

the highway, each hosting something
different a farmers market, say, or
GALLERY; EAST/MICHAEL WEBER PHOTOGRAPHY

an exhibition, a performance space or

childrens garden. Itll cover over a mile of
road across six neighbourhoods.
Miami is home to the most ambitious
project of the lot. The Underline
(theunderline.org) will eventually be
a nine-mile linear park beneath the
Metrorail line from Brickell Station to
Dadeland South Station. Itll happen in
stages, starting with an outdoor gym,
before bike repair stations, cycle paths
and vegetation start to materialise. DW
NEW ANCIENT ROME
2017 is Romes renaissance year: the
Colosseum is free of scaffolding (and cleaner
than its been in the past two millennia),
the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps have
reopened after restoration work, and the
Circus Maximus is now partially open for the
first time in seven years (you can peruse pubs
and betting shops dating back 2,800 years).
DOWNTOWN MIAMI
The latest addition to Miamis ever-changing
Downtown is Brickell City Centre, in the
Financial District. Its essentially a new
neighbourhood, with shops, a cinema and
a hotel from cult brand Swire Hotels. EAST,
Miami boasts a rooftop bar overlooking
Biscayne Bay; and a Uruguayan restaurant.
brickellcitycentre.com east-miami.com

82 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 CITIES

CULINARY PITTSBURGH

Borrowing from the tech worlds start-

up incubators, the Smallman Galley
is a restaurant incubator. Would-be
restaurateurs apply for one of four spots,
which the winners get rent-free to test out
their concept. Then, 18 months later, another
four take over. smallmangalley.org

PORTLAND SPIRIT

The self-styled brewing capital of America

has moved on to the hard stuff, with a
number of distilleries putting together
small-batch vodkas, gins and whiskeys.
United under the Distillery Row label, they
now issue passports granting visitors
tastings at each. distilleryrowpdx.com

March 2017 83
 CITIES

Boozy
breaks
MAKE MINE A GIN

Gins the thing for the artisanal drinking scene

in 2017, and Cape Town is at the vanguard, with
specialist bars like The Gin Bar and Mothers
Ruin Gin Bar serving drinks concocted with
locally made gins such as Inverroche
(inverroche.co.za) and the Woodstock Gin
Company (woodstockginco.co.za), which use FROM TOP: Nightlife at The Source artisan
endemic fynbos, rooibos and buchu plants as market, Rino, Denver; Acorn restaurant, at The
botanicals. Hope on Hopkins (hopeonhopkins. Source; Man O War Vineyards, Waiheke Island,
co.za), Cape Towns first distillery, offers tours New Zealand
and tastings in its warehouse conversion.
Belfasts big on gin, too bars like The
John Hewitt (thejohnhewitt.com) are serving up
local brands, like Jawbox, Northern Irelands
first single estate gin. Small distilleries
are opening up for visits, too: Echlinville
(echlinville.co) flavours its gin with gorse and
seaweed, while Shortcross (shortcrossgin.com)
uses local apples, elderflowers, and spring
water from the Rademon estate on which
its located. Theres a resurgence in Buenos
Aires, too, where Renato Giovannoni, the man
behind Floreria Atlantico (floreriaatlantico.
com.ar) often named Latin Americas best
cocktail bar has produced his own brand,
Principe de los Apostoles, flavoured with yerba
mate and eucalyptus. It also serves gins from
Bolivia and Peru, in fishbowl-size glasses.
Not that the craft beer boom has let up: the
Copenhagen Beerwalk (copenhagenbeerwalk.
com) coincides with Carlsbergs centenary
this year and takes in 12 pubs in Vesterbro and
Nrrebro (23 for six drinks); Amsterdams
new Hoppa! bar (hoppa.amsterdam/nl) brings
together 60-odd city-brew beers; and Denvers
ever-gentrifying RiNo neighbourhood is
home to several breweries, including Beryls
Beer Co (berylsbeerco.com) and Our Mutual
Friend (omfbeer.com), while the Source Hotel,
due to open this year, will host a New Belgium
brewery, and a barrel-ageing area by the
rooftop pool. JB
IMAGES: ADAM LARKEY PHOTOGRAPHY; 4CORNERS

DUBAIS NEW WORLDS K AYA K I N G AU C K L A N D

Dubai has a tendency towards excess the
city opened four theme parks under one
roof in late 2016. IMG Worlds of Adventures
rides, cinemas, live shows and 5D simulators
are themed on Cartoon Network characters,
Marvel comic heroes and dinosaurs. While
its hardly highbrow, its an indisputable kid
magnet. imgworlds.com
Until recently, visiting Waiheke Island
tended to involve a short ferry hop from
Auckland city centre, then wine tasting. But
sea kayaking tours around the harbour island
are turning it into an adventure destination
as well as a food and wine escape. Auckland
Sea Kayaks leads novice paddlers around the
craggy cliffs. aucklandseakayaks.co.nz

March 2017 85
CITIES
culture
Arabian
hub
BEYOND THE BLING
The blingier the better has traditionally been
the Arabian Peninsula states approach to
tourism, but all thats changing this year
with a slew of new top-notch museums and
galleries. Muscat is home to the sprawling
new National Museum of Oman (facebook.
com/nationalmuseumoman), which traces the
history of the sultanate back to prehistoric
times, with exhibits including gold from
a wrecked 15th-century ship that form
part of Vasco da Gamas fleet. There are
temporary exhibition spaces with links to the
Smithsonian, Victoria and Albert Museum
and Tate that should be running blockbuster
exhibitions soon, and even a gallery where
visitors can watch staff working on artifacts.
Doha, meanwhile, is soon to open the
futuristic-looking National Museum of
Qatar (qm.org.qa), designed by Jean Nouvel
CLOCKWISE: Entrance to Manarat Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat
Cultural District, Abu Dhabi; Boardwalk storefronts,
Venice Beach; biking on The Strand, Venice Beach;
clothing boutique in Maboneng, Johannesburg
86 natgeotraveller.co.uk
around the former emirs palace, and filled
with Dohas past and present, with films
projected onto walls, and themed galleries,
including Life at Sea and Trade & Souk.
Over in the UAE, Abu Dhabis long-
awaited Saadiyat Cultural District
(saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae) should come
to fruition this year, with a Louvre, a
Guggenheim and the Zayed National
Museum, designed by Norman Foster.
Dubai, meanwhile, has opened its
Saruq al-Hadid Archaeology Museum
(saruqalhadid.ae), displaying fi nds from
a new archaeological dig in the desert,
dating back 3,000 years. Its location,
the Shindagha heritage area, is rapidly
expanding, with 50 museums slated to be
open by next year.
For something different, look no further
than Ras al-Khaimah, swift ly establishing
itself as a world-class destination for
adventure tourism, with biking, climbing,
a via ferrata, the worlds longest zip-
line, plus horse-riding at the local royal
familys stables, booked
via the Waldorf
Astoria Ras Al
Khaimah. JB
IMAGE: ALAMY
 CITIES

CAR-FREE LOS ANGELES

The opening of the Metro Expo Line last year

swept away the received wisdom that you
need a car to visit LA. Running from trendy
Downtown to Santa Monica, it connects the
beach, city and Valley. Ride-sharing apps
like Lyft and Uber have slashed transport
prices. Even better, the most popular areas
(NoHo, Silverlake, Downtown, the beach
towns) are easily walkable the LA tourist
board has even produced car-free itineraries.
discoverlosangeles.com/carfreela

HIPSTER JOHANNESBURG

Theres a growing buzz about Joburgs hipster

scene, centred round Maboneng, a once
gritty part of downtown thats now packed
with local designers, galleries, Africas fi rst
design museum and even a hotel. Meanwhile,
Braamfontein, 10 minutes away, is the place
to go for nightlife. mabonengprecinct.com

RIVERSIDE CHICAGO

The Chicago River has long suffered from

a lack of public access, but the Chicago
Riverwalk has changed that completed
last year, the riverside path stretches through
the heart of the city, flanked by a fresh crop
of wine bars, kayak rental outlets and tiki
huts. chicagoriverwalk.us

MARRAKECH BY BIKE

Marrakechs Medina Bike became Africas

fi rst bike-share scheme when it debuted in
November. The 300 bikes, stationed at 10
solar-powered points outside key sites like
the Majorelle Garden and Koutoubia Mosque,
cost 4 a day to hire. medinabike.ma

March 2017 87
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African
American
history
FROM CIVIL RIGHTS
TO MOTOWN
First proposed in 1915, the National
Museum of African American History and
Culture (nmaahc.si.edu) in Washington
DC opened in September, and is the first
US museum of its kind. It traces African
American history from the slave trade to
Barack Obamas presidency, and the over
Motown Museum, Detroit
CONTEMPORARY LISBON
The Lisbon waterfront revival continues
apace with the big, bold Museum of Art,
Architecture and Technology. A cultural
powerhouse in a very literal sense its
housed in a former power station its
modern art exhibits are displayed alongside
the historic machinery that once provided
energy for the whole of Lisbon. maat.pt
36,000 exhibits range from a cowry shell
necklace used as currency during the slave
era to the lunch counter from a North
Carolina Woolworths that was the scene of
a famous Civil Rights sit-in in 1960, and the
coffin of Emmett Till, lynched, aged 14,
in Mississippi in 1955 for whistling at a
white woman. Its not all so sobering
three of the five floors celebrate high-
flying black Americans, with items
including Louis Armstrongs trumpet and
one of Muhammad Alis boxing robes.
This is just the start of Americas long-
overdue focus on its black history: until
26 February, the Oakland Museum of
California (museumca.org) is hosting an
exhibition to mark the 50th anniversary of
GROOVY SAN FRANCISCO
To mark the 50th anniversary of the Summer
of Love when up to 100,000 people
descended on Haight-Ashbury San
Francisco is hosting a year of events. They
include an exhibition of Jim Marshalls photos
of the likes of Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin
at City Hall, and a display of hippy art at the de
Young Museum. summeroflove2017.com
CITIES
the Black Panthers, while Detroits Motown
Museum (motownmuseum.org) currently
squeezed inside what was once the house
from which Berry Gordy launched the
careers of Stevie Wonder and Diana Ross
will start a major expansion this year.
Elsewhere, the Studio Museum in Harlem
(studiomuseum.org), which focuses on 19th-
and 20th-century African American art, is
set to get a new home, designed by David
Adjaye (who also did the DC museum).
Further south, the McLeod Plantation
Historic Site (ccprc.com), which opened
last year on the outskirts of Charleston,
is the first former plantation to focus on
the experience of the enslaved, rather
than the owners. JB
FR E S H TA S TE O F V E N I C E
Venices bacari taverns and cicchetti snacks
have been getting a shake-up. Naranzaria, at
the foot of the Rialto, serves up Asian tapas;
theres slow-food cicchetti at bar El Refolo,
while La Cusina, at The Westin Europa &
Regina, Venice reinterprets cicchetti in
its gourmet tasting menu. naranzaria.it
teamowinebar.com elrefolo.it lacusina.com
March 2017 89
CITIES

Shipping FROM TOP: Boxpark Croydon; floating

container malls
restaurants around Hong Kong Island

TICKING ALL THE

RIGHT BOXES

The trend for turning shipping containers

into shops and bars was borne of necessity.
When Christchurch, in New Zealand, was
ravaged by an earthquake in 2011, shifting
businesses into shipping containers was
meant to be a temporary means to an end.
But for the RE:Start Mall (restart.org.nz), its
been a formula for success. Its now home
to over 50 businesses, clustered together,
selling everything from exercise gear to
woodfired pizzas.
The shipping container idea has spread
globally, neatly coinciding with the trend
for pop-up shops and restaurants. Boxpark
(boxpark.co.uk) in Londons Shoreditch now
has a sibling south of the river, in Croydon,
while more recent additions to the scene
include Common Ground (common-ground.
co.kr) in Seoul and the garishly-painted Quo
Container Center in Buenos Aires.
The Downtown Container Park
(downtowncontainerpark.com) in Las Vegas is
a spectacular example of the genre part of
a plan to revitalise the once-grim downtown
area. Not all the enterprises have worked, but
the overall effect in a city best known for
doing things on a lavish scale is charming.
One vendor sells handmade beef jerky,
another gourmet hotdogs, others clothes and
jewellery. They all surround a big park and
playground, where parents can let their kids
loose as they sit outside with a glass of wine.
The only clue that this might be Vegas is the
ludicrous, superscale model of a praying
mantis made of scrap metal that periodically
shoots flames six storeys high.
Bristol has also got in on the act. Cargo, at
Wapping Wharf (wappingwharf.co.uk/cargo),
is a precinct of indie retailers that includes a
posh pie shop, a hipster barbershop and cider
shop. Its all worked rather well a second
phase is set to open early in 2017. DW

SOUTHSIDE HONG KONG TA P WIN E IN M E LBO U R N E

Say hello to the southern side of Hong Kong Bottles and corks, begone Melbourne
Island the brand new South Island Mass is going in for some serious middleman-
IMAGE: BOXPARK/NICK CAVILLE

Transit Railway (MTR) has at last opened it
up to visitors (the final district of Hong Kong
reached by the MTR), making it easy and
affordable to visit areas such as Aberdeen,
famous for its floating seafood restaurants.
Elsewhere, the recent Kwun Tong Line
extension has opened up the southeast side
of Kowloon. mtr.com.hk
cutting. The barrels come in from the
wineries, taps are stuck in, and the good stuff
is poured out, straight from source. Several
bars are leaping on the bandwagon, including
Harry & Frankie, in hip Fitzroy, and Arbory
Bar & Eatery, at Flinders Street Station.
harryandfrankie.com.au
arbory.com.au

90 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Come and enjoy with us the ultimate all-round
JEEP TOUR EXPERIENCE
Photograph by Mehdi Berrada

icelandtoptours.is
yourfriends@icelandtoptours.is
+354 8 240 240
Moving
at
the

speed
With an average speed of just 24mph, the
Glacier Express bills itself as the worlds
slowest express train. And when your route is
dotted with gorges, mountains, vineyards and
spa towns, theres really no need to rush
Words B E N L E R W I L L Photographs S L A W E K K O Z D R A S

92 natgeotraveller.co.uk
of
a

glacier

March 2017 93
SWITZERLAND

We're

dancing
on

air.
94 natgeotraveller.co.uk

I
ts early morning in the Swiss Alps,
and were curving noiselessly through
the sky as the sun spills down onto the
mountains. Ive just leapt off the side
of a ridge harnessed to a man I met
half an hour earlier. We experience a
few bewildering seconds of kerfuffle,
a rush and furl of fabric, the bizarre sense of
being hurled upwards then silence, and
the euphoric stillness of the valley. Now, with
each current that reaches our paragliding
wing, we spiral off and away, gravity-defiant
and eagle-high.
Far below, rags of white cloud still
linger above the birch woods. The ageless
Matterhorn looks on, its craggy geometry
incandescent in the morning light. Im
grinning like a loon, trying to take in
everything at once: a gust of wind curling
wisps of snow from the tallest peaks; a tiny
red car glinting along a forest road. Looking
high then low, its possible to trace precisely
the passage of glaciers over time, their ice-
scoured valleys and side-gorges spread out
in file. Not a bad way to start the day, is it?
comes the voice behind me, as we float into
the blue again. Makes you feel alive.
Theres a lot that makes you feel alive in
Switzerland. Im at the end of a week-long rail
SWITZERLAND
journey through the crystalline amphitheatre With each current that
that is the south of the country. The right
scenic superlatives have been hard to come reaches our paragliding
by. This tandem paragliding flight is a final-
morning frill to a trip that has brought me wing, we spiral off and
from St Moritz to the resort town currently
sitting a few hundred metres beneath my away, gravity-defiant and
dangling legs: Zermatt.
The backdrop is head-swimmingly eagle-high. Far below, rags
beautiful, as it has been all week. Ive spent
the trip riding the Glacier Express, a narrow-
of white cloud still linger
gauge train that bills itself as the slowest
express train in the world. Its an unflustered
above the birch woods
way to travel. Indeed, you learn quite quickly
in the Swiss Alps that its best to do as the
glaciers do: dont rush.
My week begins in St Moritz, that bastion
of million-dollar tourism. Its summer, so
many of the trappings of the ski season
are under wraps, but theres still a rarefied
air to the lakeside town. These days its a
playground that lures the likes of Ivana
Trump and John Travolta, although the PREVIOUS PAGES: The epic natural surroundings
dwarfing the Glacier Express as it makes its way along
resort first found popularity way back in
the Oberalp Pass
the 1860s. A Swiss resident invited four
aristocratic Brits to spend a few months LEFT: Breathtaking views of the Matterhorn during the
here, on the promise of their being fully early-morning paragliding session in Zermatt
reimbursed if they werent wowed by the
setting. They were. ABOVE: Taking a walk in the hills outside of Zermatt
March 2017 95
SWITZERLAND

96 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SWITZERLAND

The connection to the UK still holds

strong. Today, theres a British classic car
rally taking place, so the resorts designer
boutiques are being treated to the fine sight
of pipe-smoking greybeards cruising past in
mustard Jaguar E-Types. Luxury is relative,
of course and budget-dependent. I source
a different kind of extravagance 20 minutes
out of town on the terrace of a hillside cafe,
where a morning coffee comes with an
unhindered view of fir-flanked mountains.
Its a princely way to spend a few francs.
Back in St Moritz, my train is on the
platform. First impressions are good. Every
carriage is broad, gleaming and coated in
the bright red of the national flag, with
panoramic windows as standard. This
is no regional commuter-trundler. Since
its inaugural journey in 1930, the Glacier
Express has functioned unabashedly as a
tourist train. Its now in its ninth decade of
feeding and watering international travellers
across over 180 miles of Alpine loveliness.
End to end, its daily mountain journey
from St Moritz to Zermatt lasts around seven
and a half hours, with an average tempo
of just 24mph. On each journey it passes
through 91 tunnels and noses its way across
291 bridges. Im splitting the route into four
sections over the course of the week. The
train is prim, punctual and, quite frankly,
couldnt be more Swiss if Roger Federer were
eating a bowl of muesli in the drivers cab.
Once we pull away from the platform,
it becomes clear just what an engineering
feat the line represents. The first leg of my
journey is taking me to Chur, the oldest city
in the country. This initial stretch of track,
looping through yawning valleys of milky
rivers, was constructed in 1903, the same
time as Albert Einstein was developing
his theory of relativity in nearby Bern. The
endeavours of the railways 5,000-strong
workforce must have been only marginally Franks, its somewhere that has always been The train is prim,
less taxing. positioned at a crossroads for traders and
When the sun comes out, the whole alpine wayfarers. Even my accommodation punctual and, quite
wraparound scene ravines, Heidi huts, for the night, the modest, pine-panelled
lush meadows is carpeted in a giddying Romantik Hotel Stern, has been welcoming frankly, couldnt be more
green. To just sit and stare is a delight. travellers for more than three centuries.
Were in the canton of German-speaking Hans, the jolly guide showing me around Swiss if Roger Federer
Graubnden, the countrys largest region. the citys elegant old squares the next
Cars were prohibited here until 1925, on day, claps his hands. I want to show you were eating a bowl of
the basis that they sullied the overall
environment. Yes, you could say we have
some marmot fat, he says. Im ushered
into a pharmacy, where he produces a jar
muesli in the drivers cab
a little rivalry with French Switzerland, of thick, pale ointment. It smells pungent.
one of the train staff tells me, a mischievous This substance is taken from marmots,
twinkle in her eye. Why wouldnt we? We he explains, referencing the hefty, squirrel-
have more to boast about. like animals that live on the surrounding
mountains. Its very valuable. Its good for
The high life aches and pains, and its all-natural.
On the outskirts of Chur I find a vending As elsewhere on the trip, the relationship
machine selling nothing but freeze-dried between Chur and the countryside is a
LEFT: British Classic Car Meeting, alongside the
fondue. Its a modern touch in a city that has symbiotic one. Fifteen minutes out of town, designer boutiques of St Moritz
been part of Switzerlands story from the the slopes are draped in vineyards. At nearby
very beginning. Founded by the Celts and Bad Ragaz I hire an e-bike the inclines here ABOVE: Passengers waving from aboard the Glacier
subsequently ruled by the Romans and the are tough and meander up into the hills. Express as it travels up the Oberalp Pass

March 2017 97
SWITZERLAND

98 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SWITZERLAND

On either side of the train, the Rhine Gorge

stretches up towards rock spires and granite
buttresses. Copses of larch trees perch
at impossible angles, staring down at our
little scarlet locomotive

March 2017 99
skiing in the Engadine - home of the 2017 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships

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 SWITZERLAND

G ER M A N Y

F RA N CE

LIECHTENSTEIN
AUSTRIA
S WI TZ E R L A N D Bad Ragaz
Chur
Disentis Davos
Andermatt Filisur
St Moritz
Leukerbad Brig
Visp
S
Zermatt P
MATTERHORN L
A
I T A L Y
20 miles

ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
Base your Glacier Express itinerary
around Zrich Airport. SWISS operates
up to 119 weekly flights to the city from
London City, Heathrow, Gatwick
(seasonal), Manchester, Birmingham,
Edinburgh (seasonal) and Dublin. Other
airlines that serve the city include
British Airways and EasyJet. swiss.com
ba.com easyjet.com
The country has a comprehensive
and efficient rail and road network. The
Swiss Travel System provides a
dedicated range of travel passes and
tickets exclusively for visitors from A quiet evening in Arcas Square with St Martins
abroad. swisstravelsystem.co.uk Church in the background, Chur.

When to go? PREVIOUS PAGES: Passengers taking in the

The Glacier Express runs year-round, view through the Glacier Express trains iconic
with one daily service in winter and up panoramic windows
to three over summer. glacierexpress.ch

Places mentioned?
Romantik Hotel Stern. stern-chur.ch
Chedi Andermatt.
thechedi-andermatt.com
Within the hour, serendipity leads me to a Rhine. The river is broad and cloudy
small-batch winery, where a dozen people with glacial run-off. Groups of bathers
More info? are sitting on sun-dappled wooden tables are relaxing on the banks, some of them
myswitzerland.com under a broadleaf tree. I order a glass of swimming in the shallows offshore. It takes
Switzerland (Lonely Planet Travel Riesling and some local cheese, then little deliberation for me to join them,
Guides). RRP: 15.99 sit back. improvising with clothing and dunking
Only around 2% of Swiss wine gets into the cold, fast waters.
How to do it? exported. Judging from the drinkers in front To a large degree, water and ice have
All-inclusive air fares with SWISS from of me, the remaining 98% has no trouble moulded and contorted the Swiss Alps
the UK start from 71, one-way.
finding a willing market. I get talking to the into the features we know today, scooping
One-way tickets from St Moritz to
couple next to me, who, it transpires, are out valleys, sharpening ridges and forging
Zermatt on the Glacier Express cost
from CHF 149 (119) second class or from Liechtenstein, the tiny principality river courses. The region showcases natures
CHF 262 (210) first class, plus seat just a few kilometres away. We come to work on a titanic scale. Theres a reminder
reservation fee. Tandem paragliding Switzerland a lot, says the man, taking a of this when I rejoin the Glacier Express
flights with Fly Zermatt from CHF 170 slug of ros and wiping his moustache. The for the journey from 1,949ft-high Chur to the
(136). flyzermatt.com wines nicer here. 6,706ft-high Oberalp Pass. On either
Back on the bike, I make the most of the
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

side of the train, the Rhine Gorge stretches

electric assistance as I continue to follow the
hills. Unable to resist the urge to pedal into
another country, I make the short diversion
into the southern tip of Liechtenstein, where
a bluff-top castle stands over empty Sunday
roads. Returning into Switzerland, I wheel
back to Bad Ragaz along the banks of the
up towards rock spires and granite
buttresses. Copses of larch trees perch
at impossible angles, staring down at our
little scarlet locomotive. For our part, we
have to pause at the old monastery town
of Disentis to change to a cog-wheel
engine: nature might do its own thing

March 2017 101

 Bernina Express - From glaciers to palms Information / Reservation / Sales
Experience one of the most spectacular ways to cross the Alps: Rhaetian Railway, Railservice, Tel +41 (0)81 288 65 65
The Albula and Bernina lines of the Rhaetian Railway. railservice@rhb.ch, www.rhb.ch

Glacier Express The slowest express train in the world!

Ride the rails up into the clouds, through untouched Alpine countryside,
over roaring mountain streams, past towering walls of rock.
www.glacierexpress.ch
 SWITZERLAND

in the mountains, but mankind needs a hairpin bends to the hill town of Leukerbad.
helping hand. Its another Alpine settlement with a long
Human intervention isnt always positive, history the Romans are known to have
of course. My next stop is the high-altitude lingered here, for example. The main
town of Andermatt, which for centuries reason? For as long as anyone can remember,
prospered from its position on regional Leukerbad has received 900 litres of hot
trading routes. Then a 10-mile tunnel was thermal water a minute, every hour of
built under the surrounding peaks in the every day.
1880s, greatly easing cross-mountain travel We use it to heat our homes and power
but effectively cutting Andermatt adrift from our lights. And to relax in, of course, says
the source of its livelihood. The town, ringed guide and local resident David, with an
by snow-capped behemoths, struggled badly. understandable hint of smugness. Were
We were screwed, if youll pardon the watching a few dozen people wallowing in
expression, explains Berni a middle-aged outdoor thermal swimming pools, the steam
man with unruly hair tucked under a flat cap rising against a backdrop of cathedral-like For as long as anyone
who grew up in the valley. He introduces mountains. It doesnt even smell. No rotten
himself as a snowboarder, historian, eggs. No sulphur. Its basically melted snow
can remember, Leukerbad
chemical analyst and crystal digger. Today,
hes my guide. Andermatt had always been
that has bubbled up again through the earth.
The water thats coming out today was snow
has received 900 litres
a world between worlds, but now we were 40 years ago. of hot thermal water a
properly isolated, he continues. Most There are 65 mountains higher than
people who live here are descended from the 13,100ft in the European Alps. Leukerbad minute, every hour of
Walsers, the Germanic people who settled sits in the canton of Valais, which claims
here in the Middle Ages. Me too. We adapted. no fewer than 48 of them. Almost every every day
Nowadays we focus on tourism.
This is no idle statement. Things dont
get done by halves in Switzerland, and
the town is currently in the middle of a
The Chedi Andermatt
fairly staggering 1.3bn development
programme, which already includes five-
star The Chedi Andermatt (iPad-controlled
fireplaces, Swarovski crystal lamps, cheese
cellar). Just as pertinently, it also gives
access to superb hiking and skiing territory.
At Bernis recommendation, I trek up into
the hills to reach the source of the Rhine, a
five-hour round-trip on which I meet just
two other hikers.
Its nevertheless a busy walk. Tiny
dragonflies zip across pink wildflowers;
mountain jackdaws arrow past in tightly
choreographed flocks; marmots bundle
nervously away from the trail. All the while,
serried ranks of mountains file off into
the distance, their sides splattered with
enormous snow grooves. I climb higher.
Silhouetted peaks haze away to the horizon,
and when I take a diversion to the almost
perfectly pointed summit of Pazolastock, I
can see for what feels like forever.
The river source, when it arrives, is
enjoyably understated. A sign on a rock reads
Rheinquelle, marking the small, lonely lake
from which one of Europes mightiest rivers
takes shape. I dip my hand in. From this high
cradle in the hills, these waters will flow
down through six countries, getting broader
all the while, passing through the cities
of Basel, Strasbourg, Cologne and beyond,
before discharging into the North Sea.

Lucky Leukerbad
Some places get all the luck. Having taken
the Glacier Express as far as the little city of
Visp, Ive travelled away from the main St
Moritz-Zermatt route by catching a bus up

March 2017 103

SWITZERLAND

Devils Bridge, Andermatt

My paraglider instructor veers us towards a remote Alps, its easy to let your mind tread back
through the decades. Then the tip of the
mountain cafe where two families are having breakfast Matterhorn appears, and all eyes on board
look south.
on the terrace. Two cappuccinos, please! he shouts Certain landforms demand to be ogled.
There are far higher and far broader
mountains than the Matterhorn, but its
direction you choose to face reveals a here for longer. The calcium levels in Toblerone-inspiring pyramid of gneiss is
postcard panorama. And all those peaks the local water make it particularly good a thrill to behold. When I disembark in
mean lots of south-facing slopes, which in for the bones, Im told. So its a pleasant Zermatt, 15 minutes later, teasing afternoon
turn means plenty of places to grow grapes. irony that the experience has left me feeling clouds linger around the summit, before
We have 20,000 vineyard owners in Valais, sleepily invertebrate. parting to reveal the mountains full form
says David. So life is good. Mountains, hot In the vast valley below Leukerbad, against a blue sky. The streets, busy with
baths, wine. Yes, life is good. another of the continents major rivers forces outdoor stores and tour groups, are suddenly
As evening falls, we find a restaurant. Over its way westwards. I stare down at the Rhne, awhir with cameras.
a carafe of local white and multiple plates of its waters flowing slowly on their journey to My final morning is deliciously
raclette (the dangerously moreish Swiss dish the Mediterranean. Of the various tributaries exhilarating. Its hard to do justice in
of melted cheese served with pickles and feeding the river, one of the most notable is words to a day that starts with a paragliding
potatoes) I hear more about Leukerbads past. the Matter Vispa, which drains the Matter flight in clear sunshine. Halfway through
It emerges that tourism of a sort has been in Valley. Its down this lateral branch that Im our descent, Stuart, the instructor on my
evidence here for over 1,500 years, thanks to heading next, to round off my trip. back, veers us towards a remote mountain
a bath-loving bishop who invited his friends The Glacier Express isnt the only train cafe where two families are having
to sample the thermal waters in AD 501. making the journey between St Moritz and breakfast on the terrace. Two cappuccinos,
It seems churlish not to see what the fuss Zermatt. There are good Swiss rail services please! he shouts, before angling our wing
is about, so the following morning I visit plying the same route for a lower price. But back out across the valley. The families
one of the numerous public pools around theres something laudable about a long- wave back. It might be a while before we
the town. Two hours later, having soaked distance train that still exists for pleasure return there to drink our coffee, but in the
and saunad in varying degrees of heat and alone, and as we trundle past waterfalls and Swiss Alps, theres nothing more unnatural
humidity, Im rather wishing I was staying up onion-domed churches in the shadow of the than hurrying.

104 natgeotraveller.co.uk
MATTErHOrn gLACIEr pArADISE.
Four seasons on Europes highest mountain excursion
High-Alpine mountain spectacle and recreation pure
The genuine Zermatt experience only happens up on
the mountain, at Matterhorn glacier paradise. You find
yourself amidst a spectacular mountain world of ice,
rock and snow after a comfortable cable car ride.
On the panorama deck, you are greeted by a fresh
breeze of mountain air and you enjoy the breath-
taking panorama of 38 four-thousand-metre peaks, 14
glaciers, and three countries. The Matterhorn seems
so close you could almost touch it. And at Europes
highest cable car station at an altitude of 3,883 metres
you immerge on a tour through the glacier palace
nestled within this ice world or you enjoy pure movie
pleasure in the Cinema Lounge. Or pick up your snow
tube for no extra charge and its launch time! On
Trockener Steg, one station below the Matterhorn
glacier paradise, the 3S InfoCube awaits you with inter-
active information about the project to build the worlds
highest 3S cableway and the challenges facing con-
struction engineers in the high-Alpine region.
International skiing enjoyment
Did you know that you can ski 365 days a year at
Matterhorn ski paradise? When all the other ski
areas are still closed, your wish to curve through
the snow becomes reality in Zermatt. At Europes
biggest summer skiing area, genuine snow delight is
Ticke
inclu
fun a de
cti
ts
on th vities
e top
!
yours also in the summer on 21 kilometres of slopes
and in the Snowpark Zermatt. This is the time when
deep green meets the white splendour. The winter ski
area with state-of-the-art infrastructure encompas-
ses over 360 kilometres of slopes, extending into Italy.
You feel the international flair everywhere, not only
with the Italian culinary treats and the Mediterranean
cordiality. Unforgettably beautiful freeride descents,
ski safaris, the Snowpark for lifting off, sunning
terraces, and plenty of time for relaxation await you
at Matterhorn ski paradise. And all that without the
hype but with full assurance of snow.
Multiple highlights
Zermatt is the starting point for mountain tours in the
world of 4,000-metre peaks, a hiking paradise with
pastures of flowers, fresh spring water and romantic
forest trails, and a place to have fun, like riding dirt
scooters.
regardless of the season in which you come, Zermatt
offers time to recuperate amidst the peacefulness of
nature. Breathe easily in the fresh mountain air. Treat
yourself to a vacation full of sun, which shines some
300 days a year in Zermatt. Simply enjoy life to the
fullest at Matterhorn glacier paradise.
Blessed
BY NATURE
Decamp to the Swiss
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 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

HOTEL FAFLERALP (SWISS LODGE)

Situated at an elevation of 6,000ft, this
century-year-old chalet hotel is the ideal spot
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HOTEL PILATUS-KULM 3* SUP

Nearly 7,000ft up in the Pilatus massif, this
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 Arolling-eyed
wild,
beast
of a

route
Words A D R I A N P H I L L I P S

The Carretera Austral highway

bumps and shudders you
through the remote Aysn region
of Southern Chile, while the
Andes and ice fields clamour for
your attention

108 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 IMAGES: ALAMY; ADRIAN PHILLIPS

March 2017
109
CHILE

Morning
COmes,
loaded with the
sounds
and silences
of the
wilderness.

A
breeze rises and dies among the trees that fringe
the clearing, the horses nicker intermittently,
IMAGE: CHRISTOPHER TOOTHMAN/COURTESY OF SENDEROS PATAGONIA

and out on the lake some ducks thrash and

squabble before all is calm again. Patagonia is
about moments like this, says Mary, and I nod
my appreciation of the moment through the hum of my
electric toothbrush.
Yesterday evening, the camp had unfolded around me
in minutes. The horses were tethered, my tent pitched,
a windbreak improvised from tarpaulin and whittled
branches. Rodrigo magicked a whole salmon from his
saddlebag and we ate it fresh from the fi re with pieces
of lemon and tomato while a billion stars convened
above us. Now everything is dismantled with the same
swift efficiency, until only the cheeky meadowlark thatd
insisted on sharing our breakfast would ever have known
wed stayed.
And were off again, along the narrow cattle trails.
Welcome to Aysn, in Southern Chile, a region the size
of England but containing just one person for every two
sq km. A region so remote that until recently it didnt

110 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 CHILE

Gaucho Cristian shows

off his lassoing skills

PREVIOUS PAGES, FROM

LEFT: San Rafael Glacier;
Rolando, horse trekking
near Villa Cerro Castillo

March 2017 111

112
CHILE

natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGES: CHRISTOPHER TOOTHMAN/COURTESY OF SENDEROS PATAGONIA; GETTY

even feature in Chilean weather forecasts. For several
years, real-life gaucho Cristian and his wife, Mary,
have led riding trips through the foothills around Villa
Cerro Castillo. Their multi-activity company, Senderos
Patagonia, has recently joined forces with Rodrigo,
whose family own much of the land hereabouts. Ive
joined them on a two-day trek.
My priority, though, is not to break my neck on the
land. Negras lovely, but youll need to show her whos
boss, Mary had warned yesterday, and then Id spent
the afternoon muttering prayers and clinging on for
dear life. Whenever we dropped too far behind the
others, Negra would break into an unbidden trot that
left me bouncing and flapping like a Jack-in-the-box;
when she loped over a log, I nearly lost my teeth in the
back of her head.
But by the second day, Im anticipating my horses
sudden dashes, interpreting her huffy grunts, and
coaxing her around low-hanging branches rather than
letting her drag me through them. I start to appreciate
the mint-green frosting of lichen on the lenga trees, the
scent of tobacco on the leaves. We cross streams and
toil up sandy tracks, the horses snorting and struggling
for purchase, before reaching a plateau with views over
Cerro Castillo, its peak crenelated like a Crusader castle.
This is horse country, and my companions are horse
people, through and through. Mary arrived from the US
a decade ago, but the others are direct descendants of
the tough pioneers who first settled Aysn in the early
1900s, drawn by the promise of cheap land from a
government desperate to prevent Argentinian claims
on empty territory.
Guiding the packhorse at the front is Rolando, a
gaucho with a greying moustache and no front teeth,
his great-grandfather one of the original five families to
inhabit this pocket beneath the mountains. Behind me is
Rodrigo, whose grandfather helped establish the town
of Cochrane to the south in the 1950s. He made his
money driving horses 100 at a time to sell in
Coyhaique, over 300km away. Right at the back is
Cristian, the horse whisperer.
These guys know the terrain like the backs of their
hands, Mary tells me. Its Rolando who finds a big
hairy armadillos shell, and points out the Magellanic
woodpecker jutting sideways from a tree trunk, its
tufted head a blaze of crimson. Rodrigo spots a pair
of grey-brown fox cubs, legs splaying as they scamper
back up to a fissure in the rock. Foxes and pumas are
the only predatory mammals here, he explains. In the
past, farmers ran pumas down with their dogs, but
recent education efforts have resulted in puma numbers
climbing. Cristian has seen a couple of pumas, Mary
reveals proudly.
Cristian says nothing. Hes quite quiet, Mary burnished tree stumps where pioneers fires once burnt
concedes, as her husband canters ahead to scout the
path, toothpick between teeth, the very epitome of
the strong, silent cowboy. I unspool his story from the
others. He used to be a bucking bronco rider, they tell me,
breaking horses the old-fashioned way, but grew tired of
forcing animals to bow to his will. Instead, he learned a
FROM TOP: Cristian and
more natural method, one that focuses on fostering trust
Mary lead a riding trip in
between man and beast. Today, hes the horse whisperer
the foothills around Villa
Cerro Castillo; Carretera of choice for miles around, famed for bringing the
Austral crossing the Rio wildest of steeds to heel.
Ibanez Valley near Cerro That evening, while the lamb is roasting at Rodrigos
Castillo National Reserve cypress-wood lodge, Cristian takes centre stage at last.
CHILE
The Carretera Austral advances
with the sweeping undulations of
an angry snake, before shedding
its tarmac entirely
I understand the way a horse communicates, he says,
its movements, the position of its ears and lips. And as
he approaches a feisty white stallion called Napoleon in
the paddock, he clicks and shushes and utters hushed
reassurances; this quiet man talking and talking in the
language he loves best.
Trust established, Cristian takes Napoleon through
a series of exercises, each designed to prepare him for a
real-life scenario. He wraps a rope around his forelegs (to
mimic a stray lead rein) and the stallion stands steady. He
shakes some pebbles in a bottle (like the sharp rattle of a
rock slide), and Napoleon remains unspooked. Cristian
doesnt break horses he trains them, observes Mary,
admiringly. I just enter the horses world, says Cristian,
simply, and is silent for the rest of the night.
On the road
Next day, Im in my hire car heading south on the only
road connecting Aysn with civilisation a fragile
lifeline threading its way over 800 miles between the
Andes to the east and rainforest, ice fields and coastal
fjords to the west. The Carretera Austral (Ruta 7) was
once called Pinochets Highway because it was mainly
constructed in the 1970s and 1980s under the rule of
the infamous dictator. Journeys that took days by boat
could now be made in hours; despite his brutal record,
Pinochet is revered by many in these parts.
But the road can be a wild, rolling-eyed beast. Paved
smooth from Coyhaique, it advances on Villa Cerro
Castillo with the sweeping undulations of an angry snake
before emerging from the village and shedding its tarmac
entirely. From there onwards for hundreds of miles it
thrums and thunders beneath your tyres, spitting stones
that make tinny music on the chassis. My car jounces over
the bumps and shudders through the potholes, and when
I overtake a cyclist, I watch guiltily in the mirror as hes
engulfed by the dust that gushes in my wake.
Alongside me, the vastness of the Patagonian
landscape clamours for attention. Grassed hills are
topped with tonsures of green forest, before the scenery
takes on a haunted quality; mountainsides littered with
out of control. A movement catches the corner of my eye,
and I reverse to watch two deer stepping along a stream
pretty deer like Ive never seen before, with dark
muzzles and oversized elasticky ears. Then, a few miles
on, I pass the orange carcass of an upturned car, a rusting
reminder that if I lose respect for the Carretera Austral it
will buck me in a flash.
At Puerto Ro Tranquilo, I take a gravel road 50 miles
west along the Exploradores Valley. Here, the rainforest
is close and dense and prehistoric, looming above and
around as though nature has dislocated its jaw and is
slowly swallowing the road. There are no other cars, just
March 2017 113
CHILE

IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

114 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 CHILE

FROM LEFT: Austral pygmy

owl; Lago General Carrera,
near Puerto Rio Tranquilo

The vastness of the landscape clamours for

attention. Grassed hills are topped with
tonsures of green forest, before the scenery
takes on a haunted quality; mountainsides
littered with burnished tree stumps where
pioneers fires once burnt out of control

March 2017 115

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 CHILE

the ghostly shape of a cow deep in the foliage, a caracara

falcon perched motionless on a dead tree, and a flattened
hare that must have put some effort into getting run over
on such a lonely track.
Guanacos roam the plains like
Waiting at the end of the road is Jorge, the man who
will take me to the San Rafael Glacier. Im joined in his dinosaurs. This strange-looking
motorboat by four tourists from Florida, and as we set off
from Bahia Exploradores down the Elefantes Canal, one animal, with bulging eyes and a
of them launches into an exhaustive commentary on the
birds at the shoreline. Richard is very into wildlife, his
wife says apologetically. He has a species of ant named
stretched neck, looks as though it just
after him, she adds, by way of emphasis.
Patagonia contains a greater swathe of ice than
pulled its head free from some railings
anywhere but Greenland and Antarctica, and were
thwacking over the lumpy water towards a sheet that
covers over 1,620sq miles. Two hours later, the canal
flattens as we approach the neck of Laguna San Rafael,
and a dog-sized chunk of ice floats gently by. Another
follows, the length of a car (and the shape of a swan,
Richard points out), and when we finally swing into the
lagoon were met by blocks as big as yachts, a sleek flotilla
escorting us to the mother ship.
There, in the distance, is the glacier, its snout poking
between the valley sides. All around are the murky
browns and greens of the mountains, and the ice seems
too brilliantly white by comparison, a piece of artistic
licence. From here its texture seems unreal too, foamy
or furry, but as we draw closer the glaciers face sharpens
into focus: granite-hard, pocked and scarred, scored
with deep vertical lines where meltwater has dragged
its fingernails.
When Darwin visited aboard HMS Beagle in 1834, the
ice extended eight miles further into the lagoon, but
youd never guess this was nature in retreat. The glacier
is 1.5 miles across, climbs over 260ft above the water
and drops 820ft beneath, while it hauls behind a body
stretching 31 miles up Monte San Valentin. Our boat is a
twig below a hoary tanker; the sheer bulk of the glacier
sucks sound from the air.
And then it lets out a pistol crack that splinters the
quiet and echoes about the lagoon. Two puffs of powder
rise like gun smoke to the right, and the world holds its
breath, before a huge section of the ice drops smoothly
like a guillotine, collapsing in a rubble of ice and spray
as it hits the water. The boom of the impact reaches us
a second later, and a second after that we watch as a
colossal slab surges back to the surface with a violent,
fizzing hiss.
Gigante, laughs Jorge, as he manoeuvres the boat to
ensure were ready for the swell thats rippling towards
us. Small craft can be capsized by the waves from calving
glaciers. As we bob and drink a tot of whisky, Richard
gives an impromptu lecture on the lifecycle of the gulls
that are now circling the spot, hunting for fish stunned
by the ice fall. Weve certainly carped the diem today,
he eventually concludes. And the diem has carped us a
little bit too, dear, replies his weary wife.

A sense of proportion
Nature is in festive mood as I continue south on the
Carretera Austral next morning. The clouds have been
IMAGE: ALAMY

back-combed to full fluffiness, and lupins breathe gusts Guanacos graze the
of honeyed perfume through my open window. On the grasslands of the
left, Lago General Carrera is so blue it looks pink. I pass a Chacabuco Valley
caracara bird in deep conversation with a goat, and wait

March 2017 117

 Journey Latin America provided us
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JS, London

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EXPERIENCE SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY


A huge section of the glacier
drops smoothly like a guillotine,
collapsing in a rubble of ice and
spray as it hits the water
while a cascade of cows clatters down the hill ahead, a
gaucho full pelt at the rear. But shortly afterwards, I lose
the car for a moment, the back end slewing as though
batted by an invisible paw, and I realise that whatever
natures mood Im a beetle on the floor at its party.
I spend the day exploring Parque Patagonia, in
the Chacabuco Valley, an area purchased in 2004 by
controversial US conservationists Doug and Kristine
Tompkins with the aim of rescuing it from overgrazing
and restoring its original biodiversity. Not everyone took
kindly to gringo millionaires buying up Chilean land,
but one persons imperialists are anothers pioneers,
eco-friendly successors to those who were themselves
outsiders less than a century ago.
And theres no disputing the beauty of the valley, now
free of fences and livestock. Bronze bluffs tower either
side, sunlight pooling in their hollows, while distant
herds of guanacos roam the grassy plains like dinosaurs.
This strange-looking animal, with bulging eyes and a
stretched neck, looks as though it recently pulled its
head free from some railings. I watch as the males fight
for dominance, barking and biting, and charging about
the slopes with necks lowered like jousting poles.
In truth, the valley is a Noahs ark of the oddly
proportioned. Fat viscachas with rabbit ears and squirrel
tails survey me comfortably from the rock faces, paws
folded over their Buddha bellies. A dozen flamingos glide
IMAGE: SUPERSTOCK
above Flamingo Lake, pink and stringy at both ends.
Pygmy owls the Tom Thumb of owls live among the
grasslands, as do skittish lesser rheas, ostrich-like birds
best described as a panicky backside on legs.
Which I rather fear is how the residents of Cochrane
CHILE
might describe me as I stalk through town the following
morning, clad in figure-hugging neoprene. You must
go river snorkelling, Jorge had said, and Id suspected a
practical joke, a suspicion that lingered as I shoehorned
myself into a wetsuit in a shed behind a cafe just off the
main square. However, the well-proportioned Jorge is
deadly serious, and with flippers under our arms, we walk
out of the centre until the River Cochrane opens before us.
Will it be warm? I ask. No, he replies, and then
hes wading in and Im tiptoeing after, the cold river
inching its way up my legs. Face masks on, we fin above
waterweed that sways like poplars in a wind, before the
channel narrows into a tunnel of woodland, sunlight
strafing through the twigs that tweak the tops of our
snorkels. Jorge briefly removes his mouthpiece to warn
me of small rabbits ahead, and Im thoroughly confused
until the river hurries us through some gentle rapids.
When the water deepens, Jorge makes a graceful
dive, tracing the contours of the bed and showering
silver bubbles behind him. Trout as long as my arm
drift unperturbed in the current; introduced by
European pioneers, theyre now the only fish left in
the waters. But theres plenty of life above. As we rest
by a meadow, Chilean swallows dog-fight for insects,
and Jorge pulls his phone from a waterproof pouch
to play a recording of trills and whistles. A moment
later, a flycatcher appears on a bullrush, cocks its head
at us, and then flits away in a rainbow blur of yellow,
green and red. The many-coloured bird, Jorge smiles.
Thats my favourite. ABOVE: San Rafael
I have to wait until dawn on my final day, though, for Glacier and Laguna
the bird I really want to see. Leaning precariously over a San Rafael
March 2017 119
CHILE

PACIFIC OCEAN
CHILE
7

AYSN
Coyhaique

AY S N
CERRO
CASTILLO
Villa Cerro
Castillo

MONTE
SAN VALENTIN
SAN RAFAEL Lago
GLACIER General Carrera
PARQUE NACIONAL
LAGUNA
SAN RAFAEL
PACIFIC Cochran Lago
Pueyrredn
OCEAN
7

50 Miles

dizzying canyon near Coyhaique, I look onto a coven of
hunched bodies, wings folded into low-hanging capes
and beaks curving menacingly from wizened faces of
grey-pink skin. The Andean condors squat on a ledge just
65ft below, waiting for a sallow sun to warm the earth;
from time to time, the adult tests the thermals, plucking
a downy under-feather and watching to see if it rises.
And when it does, he pitches himself into the abyss,
the air catching and tugging him upwards. The juveniles
follow one, two, three and together they form a
graceful holding pattern, soaring out over the canyon
and then arcing back to swoop along the edge of the cliff,
so that for a split second each is eye to eye with me like a
bomber pilot on a flypast.
Up to 50 of these enormous vultures roost here.
Incoming high left! cries my guide, Tim, as another joins
the parade, and soon there are nine of them their wings
as long as beds making circles around us. After a few
minutes, the circles stretch as the birds begin to move away
across the tundra, travelling 250 miles to search for carrion.
Some people believe condors kill deer and even
babies absolute rubbish, of course, says Tim, and the
mention of deer reminds me of the two Id spotted on my
third day. Huemul! exclaims Tim, as I show him a photo
ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
British Airways operates the only direct ights from the UK to
Chile, ying from Heathrow to Santiago four times a week, from
680 return. Several other airlines y to Santiago indirectly, with
one stop. ba.com
The only commercial airport on the Carretera Austral is
Balmaceda, near Coyhaique. Domestic carriers are LATAM
Airlines and Sky Airline. latam.com skyairline.cl
Buses run between Coyhaique and Cochrane, but the easiest
way to explore is by car. Car hire is available at Balmaceda airport
through companies including Europcar. One-way rentals tend to
be signicantly more expensive, so arrange to start and nish at
the same point. The vehicle should have decent ground clearance.
europcar.co.uk
When to go
The Carretera Austral can be visited from November to March.
Prices are highest in the peak season of January and February.
Where to stay
Pampa del Corral, Coyhaique. eng.pampadelcorral.com
El Puesto Hostel, Puerto Ro Tranquilo. elpuesto.cl
The Lodge at Valle Chacabuco. patagoniapark.org
Hotel Ultimo Paraiso, Cochrane. hotelultimoparaiso.cl
Estancia Punta del Monte (homestay), Coyhaique.
puntadelmonte.cl
IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

on my phone. Youre so lucky theyre endangered.

Most Chileans have never seen a huemul.
Its true. Im lucky. Not just to have got close to the
huemul and the condors and the glacier, but to have
experienced the feral spirit of the Carretera Austral.
Someday perhaps someday soon the road will run
smooth with tarmac. Itll become safer and more practical,
the humps and bumps ironed out. But itll also seem just
that little bit divorced from the landscape, just that little
bit deadened, an animal forced to submit. A horse broken
rather than trained. Nows the time to visit Aysn, while its
wildness still judders through the seat of your pants.
More info
Chile: The Carretera Austral (Bradt). RRP: 17.99
recorreaysen.cl
chile.travel
How to do it
SWOOP PATAGONIA offers the nine-day Carretera Austral
Adventure Self-Drive Tour, from 2,750 per person, including
camping and hotel accommodation, 4WD car hire, boat trips to
the Marble Caves and Laguna San Rafael, snorkelling in the
Cochrane River, two days horse-riding and a dawn excursion to a
ABOVE: Andean condors condor nursery. swoop-patagonia.com/chile/aysen

120 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Live unforgettable moments while observing the Puma,
the Lion of the Andes, in its natural habitat in
Torres del Paine National Park.

@juanjaeger

Torres Del Paine National Park

An Authentic And Natural Experience

Puma Encounter All Inclusive Program (from 3 to 5 nights)

Lodging | Full Board | Open Bar | Hiking | Horse Riding | Sailing
Visit to Local Estancia | Transfers from Punta Arenas or Calafate (Arg)

Ask for details at info@lastorres.com and get a 5% discount with the promo code:
PUMA TORRES DEL PAINE

www.lastorres.com Patagonia-Chile
122 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Words C H R I S L E A D B E A T E R

SOMEWHERE
BEYOND
THE SEA
To glimpse the soul of Ibiza leave the throbbing
coastal strips and head inland, where hamlets
nestle unnoticed between fig trees and citrus
groves, and fine wines are savoured in
preference to cocktails
IMAGE: GETTY

March 2017 123

IBIZA
JUAN RIERA PLONKS THE GLASSES ONTO
THE TABLE IN A MILDLY UNGAINLY FASHION.
Somehow, he has six stems wedged between
the fingers and thumb of one hand; the other
is clutching a bottle of Sa Cova 9, his most
popular mid-priced red, and theres a clang
and thud of glass bases on wood as he sets
everything down. He spreads them out,
reaches for the corkscrew, then stops and
tuts. One of the vessels is wearing a thin layer
of dust from its winter hibernation at the
back of a cupboard. He mutters a frustrated
volley of under-the-breath Spanish, grabs the
offending item, clomps back into the lodge,
and sources a replacement.
Fifteen miles to the south of the island, the
same scene is, perhaps, playing out in one or
two of the stylish bars flanking the sands of
Platya den Bossa. Except that there I
imagine the moment is being accessorised
by a flurry of expensive cocktails and
over-effusive apologies, skittering rhythms
and pounding beats.
When Riera re-emerges through the unlit
door of the near-windowless building, he
does so brushing his hands on the back of his
jeans. The new glass is deposited without a
word or any great need for performance, and
the unhurried process of tasting his wine
starts again.
Huddled up a rutted track in the north of
Ibiza, roughly between the village of Sant
Mateu dAlbarca and the fabled party town of
Sant Antoni (San Antonio), Sa Cova winery is
an an echo of the toil and soil that dominated
life on this Mediterranean outcrop until the
hippy dream of the 1960s and the tourism
boom of the 1970s dragged focus onto the
130 miles of coastline where six million
holidaymakers chase the sun every year.
Riera is a happy relic of this yesterday. His
business began in 1993 as a hobby, a simple
way of concocting unfussy table wine for
family weddings and friends parties. His
was the first commercial winery on the
island, and even now, there are only five.
Twenty-four years on, he produces around
25,000 bottles per annum to be distributed
around Ibiza and exported to Germany. But
Sa Cova remains an unpretentious affair,
open to visitors to its out-of-the-way address,
yet unlikely to fall into a panic if, for weeks
on end, nobody wanders in for a tour.
The first year was quite difficult, Riera
muses, filling the glasses with a crisp white
124 natgeotraveller.co.uk
that splices historic malvasia and macabeo
grapes. On Ibiza, you couldnt buy a cork,
you couldnt buy a bottle. He shrugs.
The personality of the land is the
personality of the wine, he says, waving his
arm airily to the left, towards Plat Albarca,
the valley sheltering his 12 hectares of
vineyards. The vine is a strong plant. It
survives with little water. And we have good
climate, good soil.
I leave with two bottles of Sa Cova 9 and
one of Rieras signature Clot DAlbarca, which
works miracles with the monastrell grape, as
he retreats into the diminutive lodge with its
small clusters of barrels an emperor with
no real urge to widen his empire.
WHAT LIES WITHIN
Sa Cova is out of step with the image of Ibiza
as a hedonistic haven, but its very much part
of a version of island life thats oddly easy to
encounter. Its there again at Can Lluc, an
agroturismo hotel within the vicinity of the
capital Eivissa (Ibiza Town), an oasis where
olive trees murmur around a tranche of villas
and whisper to the day-beds by the pool,
before further rows of grape vines take up
the chorus to the rear. Squint at the latter
and you might make out the Ibiza that
existed in the ancient world, the one settled
by Phoenician navigators in 654BC, ruled
from Africa by Carthage (modern-day Tunis)
in 5BC, and gradually absorbed into the
Roman realm during 2BC it was this last
set of incomers who knew a thing or two
about wine cultivation on gentle hillsides.
The foundations remain. At Sa Caleta, in
the south-west of the island, a peninsula
protects the Asentamiento Fenicio,
remnants of stone structures crafted by
those first Phoenicians. These low lines of
brick, right angles in orange dirt, were
uncovered by archaeological excavation in
the early 1990s and given UNESCO World
Heritage status by the end of that decade
a Balearic Pompeii hidden by time rather
than anything as gaudily dramatic as
volcanic fury.
The Mediterranean gleams on each side,
and those original residents ingenuity
becomes clear, their choice of site providing
access to both the sea and Ibizas salt
marshes Ses Salines whose minerals
were such a desirable commodity for traders.
Its a beautiful setting, and therefore,
I decide, just a little obvious. Ibiza is
renowned for its wave whoosh and shoreline
sparkle. But to devote oneself to the coast is
to ignore the meat of an island which, at
221 sq miles in area, is the third biggest of the
Balearics; its small enough to explore, yet
big enough to be dissected over the course
of a week.
Indeed, you could meander through
Ibiza at length, without so much as glancing
at the seafront. This is not to dismiss the joys
of its beaches the decadent curve of Platja
den Bossa, the tranquil crescent of Platja de
Ses Salines, the perfect horseshoe of Cala
den Serra. More to say that, to glimpse
Ibizas soul, you need to look inwards, to the
hamlets that nestle, half unnoticed, between
the fig trees and citrus groves.
So it is that, on a cautiously warm March
morning, I find myself in Santa Gertrudis de
IMAGES: GETTY
Fruitera, the village at the geographical heart
of the island. Carrer de la Vnda des Poble,
the aorta of this heart, would blush at
attempts to describe it as a main square
 IBIZA

Procession during the Sant

Agusti des Vedra Festival

PREVIOUS SPREAD:
Tourists exploring the
streets of Ibiza Town

OPPOSITE: Grapes growing

in San Mateo valley

March 2017 125

IBIZA

Ibiza Old Town in

the summertime

126 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 IBIZA

IBIZA IS RENOWNED FOR

ITS WAVE WHOOSH AND
SHORELINE SPARKLE, BUT
TO GLIMPSE ITS SOUL, YOU
NEED TO LOOK INWARDS, TO
THE HAMLETS THAT NESTLE
IMAGE: GETTY

BETWEEN THE FIG TREES

AND CITRUS GROVES
March 2017 127
IBIZA

Cacti in the rugged

Ibiza landscape

OPPOSITE: Local woman

in Ibiza Town

128 natgeotraveller.co.uk

indeed, as per its name, its strictly a
street. But it fulfils the role of central plaza
nonetheless: woozy cafe drinkeries Bar
Es Canto, Bar Costa pinned to its hem;
the church on its east edge, spotlessly
whitewashed, harking back to 1797, its squat
belltower as much an alarm system in an era
of European warfare as a siren call to the
penitent and faithful. Metres away, a bronze
sculpture salutes Manuel Abad y Lasierra,
the bishop of Ibiza between 1783 and 1787,
his unsmiling face recalling a century when
stern clerics rather than David Guetta, let
alone Calvin Harris and Avicii, were the
isles headline acts.
This sepia tone continues six miles to the
east, where Santa Eularia des Riu has
garnered a reputation as a resort town ideal
for parents on holiday with young children,
but betrays its medieval fear of invaders in
the shape of Puig de Missa, a 170ft bluff, half
a mile inland, which formed the towns
14th-century kernel. The church on its top,
built in 1568, is as much a fortress as a place
of prayer, scanning the horizon for ships
with aggressive intent. And yet it leavens this
nervousness with its attached cemetery; neat
stone cabinets for urns of ashes, rising in
columns, decorated with blooms.
Any of these villages can be a seductive
environment for lunch. Bar Anita in Sant
Carles de Peralta is so much a cog of its
community that PO boxes for local residents
are lined against one courtyard wall. And if
you come to pick up your letters, you may as
well stay for mouthfuls of tapas hearty
slabs of pan y alioli (bread with garlic
mayonnaise) and oil-drenched plates of
boquerones (seasoned anchovies). Elsewhere,
a short hop westward, I stumble into
Restaurante La Paloma, in the tiny acorn of
Sant Llorenc de Balafia, and dedicate an
afternoon to gloopy gazpacho and a seafood
risotto that jostles with shellfish.
It would be entirely possible to drift into
indolence here. But the interior also lends
itself to energy. The wider municipality of
Santa Eularia des Riu, one of the five
administrative units into which Ibiza is
divided, has just published a series of cycling
routes: 12 trails which trundle the backways
of this south-easterly segment of the island.
Some of these are gentle jaunts for heat-haze
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY
afternoons the nine-mile Itinerario 4 is an
undemanding circumnavigation of Sant
Carles which halts at the Font de Peralta, a
17th-century spring which is still the context
for midsummer festivities every 29 June.
Others are exercises in sweat and stamina.
Itinerario 11, which drops in on Santa
Gertrudis, asks 13 hard miles of its riders,
including a climb of Puig den Valls, a crag
stirring 75ft of altitude into the mix, but
which rewards those who reach its peak
with a picturesque six-sail windmill, which
first produced grain in 1797.
Then there are the mountain-bike routes
which criss-cross the entire island: 21
ribbons of endeavour split ski-run-style
into green, blue, red and black categories.
Ruta 19 cuts an 18-mile circular arc through
the northerly municipality of Sant Joan de
Labritja, wending in and out of Sant Llorenc.
Pitched affably in the blue bracket, it pulls
me into its grip one overcast lunchtime, and
keeps me bewitched by its spell: rich aromas
and ingrained furrows of Ibizan agriculture
on the road to Sant Miquel de Balansat;
bursts of pine fragrance as the gradient
stiffens after a turn onto a choppy track; fir
trees crowding the camber, my calf muscles
beginning to ache; a hairpin bend, various
bangs and bounces, and a sudden from-above
snapshot of the Mediterranean at Na Xamena,
a bay where cliffs drop to rocky, sharp-
toothed shallows. Then its on and eastward,
descending on welcome tarmac to the resort
of Port de Sant Miquel, where the beach
strikes seductive poses though I resist,
snaking back inland, with the isle throwing
off its cloud cover as I return to Sant Llorenc
under a sky of psychedelic orange.
IBIZA
ETERNAL EIVISSA
If its too much of a shock to see the sea after
half a week inland, then Ibiza offers other
places in which to avoid it not least its
capital. Eivissa (Ibiza Town) may be south-
coast in location, but its effectively north-
facing in aspect, all but turning a cold
shoulder to the Mediterranean and
cocooning itself within high walls.
Its fortifications are not quite a match for
Dubrovniks world wonders, but they had the
same defensive purpose and were
strengthened between 1555 and 1585 at a
juncture when the Ottoman threat was
growing. With this, they sing of the 13th
century, when the isle was a coveted entity for
which swords were wielded and blood shed,
and ruled by the North African chieftains
who had swept it into their Moorish realm in
the 10th century, before James I of Aragon
ripped it from their educated grasp in 1235.
Come at Ibiza Town via the Porta de Ses
Taules, one of its grand historic gateways, and
you enter a self-contained citadel thats as
much a nugget of cosmopolitan Spain as it is
a portal within quick reach of the beach. You
may have already ambled through Placa de la
Constitucio, where the Mercat Vell (Old
Market) is a Saturday feast of olive oils, herbs
and cheeses. You may have strolled across
Passeig de Vara de Rey, a leafy square where
Galeria Blanca sells intriguing artworks and
Pollock-esque swirls of paint, and the
next-door restaurant Sa Brisa promises tangy
seabass ceviche, delicious Segovia suckling
pig and intimate conversation at dimly lit
tables. You may have tripped into Teatro
Pereyra, an 1898 theatre now restored as a
music venue and the atmospheric option for
a soft island red.
Even so, the Dalt Vila (Old Town) surprises
with its cultural menu. A stride along the
broad walkway Carretera Nargiso Puget
brings me to the Museu dArt Contemporani,
the islands leading art institution, which
stretches itself, schizophrenically, between a
stone house that harks to 1727 and a heroic
modern structure hewn from glass and
concrete by Ibizan architect Victor Beltran
Roca in 2011. Inside, temporary exhibitions
reinforce a permanent collection of the
obtuse and the mysterious, such as Catalan
visionary Albert Porta y Munozs Confuzeya
staring discomfitingly at the observer as a
cascade of disembodied eyes, and Hans
Laabs Weise Mitte confronting the viewer
with its blocks of yellow and green.
The cultural landmarks continue to appear
as Eivissa flows up its slope. Sala Es Polvori, a
March 2017 129
IBIZA

nds
S PA I N ric
Isla MEDITERRANEAN
alea
B Ibiza
A SEA
SE
N
EA
R AN
DI TER
ME

Eivissa Sant Llorenc Sant Carles

(Ibiza) de Balafia de Peralta
Santa Gertrudis
San Antonio de Fruitera
de Portmany Santa Eulria
des Riu

Eivissa

PLATJA D'EN BOSSA

SA CALETA
5 Miles

ESSENTIALS
former gunpowder storehouse resculpted as
Getting there & around
a hub for rotating art shows and surreal
British Airways provides regular direct flights to Ibiza from Heathrow,
soundscapes; the Centro de Interpretacion Gatwick, Stansted and City. EasyJet, Norwegian, Ryanair, Flybe,
Madina Yabisa, a considered museum which Jet2.com, Monarch, Thomas Cook Airlines and Thomson Airways
charts Ibizas Moorish centuries; the Museu offer summer services from most major British cities, including
Arqueologic, which takes a trowel to Arabic, Bristol, Glasgow and Belfast.
Phoenician and Roman Ibiza with equal ba.com easyjet.com norwegian.com ryanair.com flybe.com jet2.com
dexterity. The latter sits in the shadow of the monarch.co.uk thomascookairlines.com thomson.co.uk
Public transport in Ibiza is limited, and its easiest to hire a car at the
Catedral de Santa Maria, another swarthy
airport if you plan to move around. Bike rental companies include
temple which looks like it knows how to fight
Bicicletas Kandani and Velo Club Ibiza. kandani.es veloclubibiza.com
as well as worship.
From here, I drift downhill and beyond the When to go
walls, then clamber up again, tracing Ibiza has a classic southern European four-season climate, and tends
increasingly narrow passageways and tight to hit temperatures of up to 30C in July and August, but it can also
staircases, until Carrer Sa Penya reveals an be as warm as 15C during the winter months.
offbeat jewel. Wedged into the north-east
corner of town, above the port from which Places mentioned
ferries begin the chug to Formentera, the Can Lluc. canlluc.com
Cas Gasi. casgasi.com
Museu Casa Broner is a fine curiosity, the
Catedral de Santa Maria. obispadodeibiza.es
former home of Erwin Broner, a German
Galeria Blanca. twitter.com/galeriablanca
architect who spent his closing years on Museu Arqueologic. maef.es
Ibiza, designing to a style that was an Museu dArt Contemporani. mace.eivissa.es
idiosyncratic alliance of Mediterranean and Museu Casa Broner. mace.eivissa.es
Bauhaus. His ethos lingers in the futuristic Restaurante La Paloma. palomaibiza.com
house he built for his wife, Gisela, though for Sa Brisa. sabrisagastrobar.com
all its light and space, the key note is his Sa Cova. sacovaibiza.com
sulky studio, squirrelled below stairs and Teatro Pereyra. teatropereyra.com

clad in red tiles.

More info
I follow Broners lead, abandoning the
ibiza.travel
seascape once more, and flee back to the
spain.info
centre of the isle, where Cas Gasi is another Guides to Ibizas mountain bike routes can be downloaded at
IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

countryside oasis, its luxury boutique
aesthetic, spa and swimming pool slotted
discreetly into woodland west of Santa
Gertrudis. As the evening descends, a fire
crackles in the hearth in the lounge-lobby,
and the bacalao gratinado, a thick cod fillet
with Iberian ham, is essential fuel against
the March chill. In the morning, theres dew
on the grass and a ghostly mist around the
tree trunks, and the idea of Ibiza as a hotspot
of sun, sand and sangria seems more distant
than ever. Im not disappointed.
ABOVE: Market in DAlt Vila (Old Town)
ibiza.travel/en/cicloturismo.php. Printed packs detailing cycle routes
in Santa Eulalia des Riu can be obtained from tourist information
centres (see ibiza.travel/en/oficinas.php).
How to do it
LOVE VELO is offering a guided Luxury Ibiza Cycling Getaway, which
explores the interior of the island over five days. From 789 per
person, including five-star accommodation, airport transfers, meals
and bicycle rental. Excludes flights. lovevelo.co.uk
INNTRAVEL offers a six-day self-guided walking tour, covering the
north and north-east of the island. From 845 per person, with
breakfast and some other meals. Excludes flights. inntravel.co.uk

130 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

4 tricks to help you learn a

FOREIGN LANGUAGE
A foreign language is one of the most useful skills in a travellers repertoire.
This year, unlock your inner linguist and enrich your travel experiences
with language-learning app Babbel and these top tips

1 Connect it to your life

Dont isolate your language study; build in anything
youre passionate about itll help you stay focused and
pick up vocabulary. Babbel can help with this: you can
choose which topics you want to learn, so your experience
is tailored to your needs and interests.
3 Learn daily
When it comes to languages, little and often is the
best learning strategy. If you find yourself with a spare
15 minutes, fill them with Babbel the apps lessons are
specifically structured to last a quarter of an hour on
average, making them perfect for a life on the go.

2 Immerse yourself
Travelling abroad isnt a prerequisite for learning
a foreign language; theres nothing in the air that will
magically make you fluent. Even if you dont have time to
get away, you can still tune your ear to the cadences and
pronunciation with TV, film, radio, podcasts and music.
4 Jump right in
With Babbel, lessons are focused on teaching practical
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Ready to start
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For a free trial lesson, head to
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132 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Flinders Ranges
AUSTRALIA
On the edge of the South Australian Outback, the
mountains of the Flinders Ranges rise above plains,
salt lakes and red sand dunes that are home to cattle
stations, sheep farms and the elusive yellow-footed
rock-wallaby

Words & photographs E W E N B E L L

March 2017 133

AUSTRALIA

134 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 AUSTRALIA

Ross and Jane Fargher and family run the Nilpena Station, as well as the Prairie
Hotel, in the town of Parachilna. Their cattle compete with kangaroos and emus
for feed, so the Farghers make a point of putting plenty of these indigenous
animals on the menu. One boundary of Nilpena runs into the foothills of the
Flinders Ranges, the other into the slat flats of Lake Torrens.

March 2017 135

AUSTRALIA

136 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 AUSTRALIA

Sheep were once allowed to graze throughout the Flinders Ranges; beyond
the national park, Ian Fargher still keeps 1,000 sheep for wool. The woolshed
at Angorichina Station was built in the 1850s from local pine, and has been
preserved by the protective properties of lanolin, a wax found in unwashed wool.

March 2017 137

AUSTRALIA

138 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 AUSTRALIA

Yellow-footed rock-wallabies
differ from other large
marsupials in their reluctance
to leave their troup. Groups of
several dozen will remain in
valleys where the high cliffs and
supply of food keep them safe.
A troup on the edge of Brachina
Gorge is signposted and if you
arrive early in the morning, a
group of them are likely to be
hiding in plain sight, just a few
hundred metres away. Only when
they hop between boulders do
they reveal themselves, or when
they cross the road in search of
something green.

March 2017 139

AUSTRALIA

The muted colours of the

Flinders Ranges are reflected
in the wildlife. The mallee
ringneck parrot native to
Australia mimics the cool
blues and greens of a distant
range, with flecks of colour
that invoke the yellow and
reds of late spring flowers.

140 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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 City life
JERUSALEM
If you ask a question in Jerusalem, you may well get five
different answers. In an ancient city where history, legend
and scripture intertwine, facts can be elusive, but the
stories still soar. WORDS: Tara Isabella Burton

142 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 T
here are two graves just inside the
Jaffa Gate. Nobody knows whose
they are. One story, says my guide,
Arnon, is that theyre the architects behind
the Ottoman-era city walls, slain by Sultan
Suleiman the Magnificent lest they ever
create something as beautiful again. Another
has it that the hapless architects were killed
to prevent them ever revealing the walls
tactical weaknesses, or because the walls
didnt encompass Mount Zion associated
with the ancient city of King David.
Or maybe theyre just nobodies, he adds.
But thats not as good a story.
Theres an old saying among Jewish
families like mine ask two Jews a
question, get three answers. Here in
Jerusalem, you get at least five.
There are so many stories here, lines are
blurred. The tomb of King David, where Jews
IMAGE: GETTY
venerate one of the most important rulers
in Jewish history, is almost certainly not at
the shrine where young women in snoods
now sit in silence with their Torahs and
sometimes weep; even Davids historical
city lies today outside the old city walls. The
Via Dolorosa sacred to Christian pilgrims
because of its association with Jesuss
final walk to Cavalry for his crucifixion
first defined by Franciscan monks in the
Medieval era almost certainly doesnt reflect
the original route. The Al-Aqsa Mosque,
on the Temple Mount closed to non-
Muslims venerates the site of the Prophet
Muhammads Night Journey, as recounted
in the Quran; but the text doesnt mention
Jerusalem, at least not by that name.
But in Jerusalems tangled, stone-stepped,
historically fraught Old City one sq km
thats home to about 4,000 Jews, 31,000
March 2017 143
JERUSALEM
Arabs (mostly Muslims), 500 Armenians and
countless pilgrims topography, it seems,
transcends truth.
Facts have no place in Jerusalem, says
Arnon. Were in the heart of the Old City,
sitting on a bougainvillea-strewn terrace
of the Lutheran Guest House, overlooking
Jewish worshippers at the Western Wall,
and the gold-glinting Dome of the Rock;
the sloping green Mount of Olives in the
distance. Here, theyre a hindrance.
For travellers whether Jewish,
Christian, Muslim, or secular Jerusalems
power lies in its promise of the cosmic; a city
that, for so many of its visitors, lies at the
centre of stories about Creation (according
to one legend, Adams skull is buried here;
according to another, divine creation started
at Mount Zion) as well as about the end of
days. Its the only city in the world, Arnon
says, where history isnt just past and
present, but future.
Arnon tells me about the time he
explained to a family of Orthodox Jews how
unlikely it was that Davids tomb was really
Davids tomb. They listened very carefully,
he says, then they said when are we going to
the tomb? I want to read some psalms!
Its that sense of faith that, even as an
outsider, gives Jerusalem its propulsive,
chaotic energy. Every other street in the Old
City throngs with sellers of menorahs and
rosaries, icons and incense; every corner
has a church with a minaret built on top of
it, a synagogue whose dome fades, on the
sand-coloured horizon, into the dome of a
church nearby. Crowds come in waves; by
day, near the major sights, the city is packed
with pilgrim groups and backpackers (You
can push! somebody tells me, through the
throng. Its Israel!). At dusk, the Old City is
empty: moonlight falls over cobblestones.
At the Church of the Holy Sepulchre one
of Christianitys holiest sites standing
on what many believe to be the execution
and burial site of Christ, Russian Orthodox
pilgrims wave sweet-smelling sprigs of
basil as a bearded priest waves a candle;
Catholics, Greek Orthodox and Armenians
kneel to kiss the stone where Jesus was said
to have been embalmed. Hanging over it are
so many lamps each one key to a different
Christian tradition. Women kneel and weep;
the younger ones help the older ones up the
stairs to Calvary.
During my time in Jerusalem, I find myself
welcomed wherever I go partly because
I dont obviously belong to one faith or
tradition. Jewish or Christian? a seller calls
out at me as I make my way across the low
stone steps of the bazaar. He holds up a Star
of David necklace in one hand, a cross in the
other. I tell him my family is mixed Both.
He harumphs.
Well, which do you like better?
I dont buy either.
144 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Faisal, the gardener, gives
me an olive branch (they
say the leaves, boiled in tea,
have special properties) and
whispers at me not to tell, lest
the other pilgrims want one too
OLIVE BRANCH
A Palestinian taxi driver takes me to the
Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus is said
to have wept before his arrest, and where
the Basilica of the Agony (also known as the
Church of All Nations) now stands. There I
stop to talk to Faisal, an Arab Christian whos
been a gardener there for 20 years; just like
his father, and his fathers father. He gives
me an olive branch hes pruned (they say the
leaves, boiled in tea, have special properties)
and whispers at me not to tell, lest the other
pilgrims want one too.
Beyond the Lions Gate, I stop for a
lavender-infused, white wine spritzer at
the Austrian Hospice of the Holy Family
(one of many historic guesthouses for
pilgrims scattered around the Old City) on
Via Dolorosa. Its a Habsburg-built palazzo
surrounded by bougainvillea and oleander,
where nuns (flanked by the stalwart Hospice
dog, Benny presumably short for Benedict)
eat Austrian Sachertorte alongside blue-
haired backpackers under an enormous,
nostalgic portrait of the Habsburg emperor
Franz-Joseph. I can hear the call to prayer;
later, the church bells.
On my way out, the streets are closed;
policemen stand guard with machine guns
alongside a march thats passing by.
Men are in yarmulkes, some with beards
and peyot (sidelocks sported by most Haredi
Jews), some in the hats traditional to ultra-
Orthodox Lithuanian Jews and Hasidim.
Some women wear a snood married
Orthodox women cover their hair some
wear secular clothes. Everyone is dancing.
Traditional Jewish music blares out from
a sound system on wheels; an old bearded
man, Joseph, from Jaffa, sees me standing on
the sidelines and pulls me in.
Its two days before Rosh Hashanah
the celebration of the New Year and the
thousand-odd gatherers are participating
in Selichot, the ritual making of amends
through prayer, here celebrated by a march
to the Western Wall (the outer wall of the
complex of the Second Temple, built as an
expression of faith after the return of the
Jews from exile in Babylon). A 10-year-old
girl patiently explains the theology to me in
English; Joseph hands me a chocolate bar
before vanishing behind a curtain men
and women are separated for a series of
starlit group dances.
I watch for a while; I wander on. Its just
after sundown; the streets are barricaded
now, to prevent any inter-religious violence.
As I make my way into the Muslim Quarter,
a group of Arab men, on their way home
from the Islamic holy sites known to
Muslims as Haram al-Sharif and to Jews
as the Temple Mount, have gathered and
are growing increasingly irritated at the
closure of the street.
I, however, am allowed to pass.
Walking through the Muslim Quarter, I
pass men playing cards at plastic tables in
undecorated tea houses. A group of young
men call out to me, laughing, mocking my
slight edginess.
Come on, one says. Lets take a selfie.
We do.
COSMIC FORCES
Yesterdays tensions at the barricade are
a reminder that despite the proximity of
Jerusalems religious traditions, the city
is anything but unified. Its not just three
cities, Arnon remarks. Its three cosmoses.
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY; NOAM CHEN/ISRAELI MINISTRY OF TOURISM
Avoiding each other. Negating each other. In
the walled, claustrophobic Old City, he says,
the communities intersect without meaning
to When a Muslim family puts a picture
of their child up on the wall in the Arab
Quarter, theyre often putting it up against
a section of the Western Wall against
which so many Muslim houses lean.
Outside the Old City, Jerusalem has
its ferociously separate spheres. Theres
the secular-Jewish Jerusalem of the New
City: underground pop-up bars in former
pickle-shops and gluten-free patisseries
along Jaffa Street, and the newly renovated
Mamilla Boulevard where the windows all
face inward, so that Orthodox Jews passing
by outside dont have to see mannequins
in lingerie. Theres the East Jerusalem of
 JERUSALEM

OPPOSITE: Street sign

Jaffa Gate in Old City

CLOCKWISE: The Church

of the Holy Sepulchre is
a church in the Christian
Quarter of the Old City
of Jerusalem, a few steps
away from the Muristan;
delivering bread, Mahane
Yehuda Market; fresh
made bagels at the
market; ornate frames,
also at the market

March 2017 145

JERUSALEM

Crowds come in waves; by day, near the major

sights, the city is packed with pilgrim groups and
backpackers (You can push! somebody tells me,
through the throng. Its Israel!). At dusk, the Old City
is empty: moonlight falls over cobblestones

The Western Wall

146 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 IMAGE: NOAM CHEN/ISRAELI MINISTRY OF TOURISM

March 2017
147
JERUSALEM
 JERUSALEM

the Muslim and Christian Palestinians

beyond the Damascus Gate. Then theres
the Jerusalem of the deeply Orthodox, the
Haredi from both Hasidic and Lithuanian
traditions, as well as some Sephardim
who live in the neighbourhoods around
Mea Shearim. Conservative, fiercely insular
English-language signs exhort the few
tourists who visit to be modesty dressed,
lest they seriously offend residents Mea
Shearim is a prime example of a self-
sustaining neighbourhood: a culture of
inward-looking self-sufficiency born out of
a world where centuries of discrimination
and violence made putting up barriers
seem that much more sensible than opening
its doors.
My guide, Lea Schreiber, a woman from a
largely Haredi family in Belgium, and one of
an increasing number of women who provide
neighbourhood tours, mostly to curious
Israelis, takes me through the quarter. She
shows me a free loan society the Haredi
dont charge one another interest for loans,
but instead require an esteemed guarantor
from within the community where locals
take care of their own; and points out the
donation boxes (located outside ATMs and
money-changers) for charitable causes. Lea
also shows me Haredi Facebook (many
Haredi chose not to use the internet, or any
other media that might be deemed to distract
from their focus on God) advertisements,
death notices and pashkevil posters plastered
outside the synagogue. She then takes me
to shops selling modest clothing, religiously
appropriate storybooks and media (National
Geographic nature videos are among the
rare nonreligious items on display) and
glimmering silver Torah covers the sort a
wealthy family might buy to donate to their
local synagogue.
We look out for each other here, Lea says.
Even outside Mea Shearim, this fierce
collectivism is integral to the identity
of Jewish Jerusalemites. In Tel Aviv,
Itzik Kadosh, the owner of the Central
European-style Cafe Kadosh on Jaffa Street
tells me, its more like the West. People
are cutthroat, competitive, he says. But in
IMAGES: NOAM CHEN/ISRAELI MINISTRY OF TOURISM; ALAMY

Jerusalem, people work together.

Nowhere is that more evident than in
Mahane Yehuda Market (Jerusalemites just
call it the shuk). A decade ago, the market

At the Austrian Hospice of the

Holy Family, I eat Austrian
Sachertorte alongside blue-
haired backpackers under an FROM TOP: Nuns and
visitors eating at the cafe
enormous, nostalgic portrait in the Austrian Hospice
of the Holy Family; locals
of the Habsburg emperor in Mea Shearim

March 2017 149

JERUSALEM

Austrian Hospice of the Holy Family

was a teeming slum the sort of place
youd avoided unless you were desperate
for prickly pears or persimmons. Then, in
2002, a wealthy local merchant, Eli Mizrachi,
transformed three of his stalls into a high-end
cafe, Caf Mizrachi, in the hopes of improving
the markets reputation among the young.
The plan was a success.
By day, the shuk is now equal parts
traditional bazaar and artisanal gallery.
Small pickle-and-cheese shops have been
transformed into fromageries; chain
bakeries, and tahini shops boasting
hundreds of flavours of the sesame paste
stand alongside fruit stalls.
But its night when the shuk truly comes
alive. As part of a collective deal, the shops
hand over their keys each night to pop-up
bars, transforming the space into a labyrinth
of hookah pipes and beers.
I take a tour with Daniel Nahmias, a
bright-eyed, manic 20-something with
I fill out a form and head into
the basement, to be grilled
about my insecurities, my
regrets and my relationship
with religion by strangers
greased hair and infectious energy. He shows
me the shuk bars; they include Casino de
Paris, set in a former Mandate-era brothel
catering largely to 18-to-20-year-olds
looking for a hedonistic break from military
service and the slightly Berlin-style, low-
lit bars on the fringes, where those in their
30s go. We wander through archways and
courtyards, and across alleys, to the Alliance
House, an NGO-funded arts and performance
space in a converted schoolhouse between
the shuk and Zion Square.
Tonight, theres an immersive theatre
performance going on in the basement.
They do experiments on people, Daniel
tells me. But, like, cool ones. I fill out a form
and head into the basement, to be grilled
about my insecurities, my regrets and my
relationship with religion by strangers who
look deeply into my eyes while filming me.
One gives me a makeshift passport, a new
identity. Welcome to the future, he says,
and ushers me into a parking lot.
We move on.
Daniel takes us to HaMazkeka, a live music
venue tucked away off Jaffa Street. Tonight,
theres an Arab DJ playing. The crowd is
mixed: boys in jeans, men in floor-length
robes, women with curly hair and heels.
The music pulses, the space cramped,
cavernous echoes. The words of the music
in Arabic, in Hebrew melt into the
soundscape; all thats left is the beat.
We dance until dawn.

Medit erraean
S ea
ESSENTIALS
Jerusalem
Getting there & around More info
El Al flies from Heathrow to Tel Aviv daily, while uk.thinkisrael.com
ISRAEL
EasyJet flies from Luton. The most straightforward DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Jerusalem, Israel,
a l l s
IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

t y W way to get from Tel Avivs Ben Gurion Airport to Petra & Sinai (2016). RRP: 20
i
C Damascus Jerusalem is by taxi (325 shekels/70), taking about 45
Gate
Church of the
Via Dolorosa minutes; regular buses (90 minutes, 30 shekels/6.50) How to do it
Holy Sepulchre Dome of leave from the Egged companys bus station in Airport The best guesthouses for budget travellers
the Rock City, a short shuttle from the airport itself, to can be found in the Old City and you dont
OLD CITY
Mamilla Jaffa Western
Boulevard Gate Wall MOUNT Jerusalems Central Bus Station. need to be religious to stay in a historic pilgrims
OF OLIVES
l s hostel, such as the Austrian Guesthouse, which
al
W Places mentioned offers dormitory beds from 22 per night, and
C i t y Cafe Kadosh. 6 Queen Shlomziyon St. private rooms from around 70. For a more
T: 00 972 2 625 4210. luxurious experience of trendier Jerusalem, try
200 yards Alliance House. 5 Kiach St. the Herbert Samuel Hotel (herbertsamuel.com),
HaMazkeka. mazkeka.com where doubles start from 230.

150 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Welcome to the land of legendary and sacred icons. Cities that are cultural, living jewels.
Nowhere else in the world can you nd such a concentration of historic, cultural and faith-based sites
including several UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
You've heard the stories all your life, now it is time to experience them.
The Palestinian people would be honored to welcome you, and share their culture and traditions,
whose roots run through the centuries.
They will see that your trip will be one you will never forget.

To Plan Your Trip check out these useful links or contact one of our licensed tour operators
www.holylandoperators.com, www.visitpalestine.ps
www.travelpalestine.ps, www.enjoyjerusalem.com
www.thisweekinpalestine.com

Holy Land Incoming Tour Operators Association (HLITOA)

www.holylandoperators.com, admin@holylandoperators.com
152
natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGE: TORSTEN KJELLSTRAND/TRAVELPORTLAND
 City life
PORTLAND
Z
ZZ

What the leafy city lacks in wow-factor landmarks it

makes up for in quirky individuality, with the DIY vibe
spanning everything from beer and coffee to food trucks and
craft shops. WORDS: David Whitley

A
t number nine on the TripAdvisor list of things to do in Portland is the MAX
Light Rail. Thats right the public has decided that the ninth-best attraction
in Oregons largest city is a train. For most cities (and for the people who rate
things on TripAdvisor) this would be damning. But for Portland, it feels oddly apt.
This is partly because everything above it is outdoor space valleys, parks, gardens,
lakes and grottos. This is indicative of Portlands tree-huggy embrace of its position in
the green, forested heart of the Pacific Northwest. But its also an indication that the
city has a different mindset from most others.
Blundering into Portland uninitiated is likely to lead to confusion. Wheres the must-
do museum? What about the classic photo op spot? Or the big historic building?
The truth is Portland doesnt have any of these things. It is unequivocally a place to
be, rather than a place to see. That doesnt mean you cant go with a large set of boxes to
tick its just those tickboxes are likely to be breweries, or restaurants, or distilleries,
rather than conventional attractions.
Its Portlands status as a relative backwater something even Portlanders will
happily admit to that has given it space for fermentation. Without the glare of the
spotlight or relentless pressure to cover extortionate rents, people have been free to try
things. Theyve roasted their own coffee beans; theyve experimented with different
hop combinations; theyve ferreted out the best local farms and put the resulting fi nds
in the oven.
In turn, this has attracted people from other cities who want to do the same. It has
led to a remarkably symbiotic, buzzing hive of small businesses and self-employment.
Imagine that one newly cool neighbourhood every city has, mushroom it across
virtually the whole urban landscape, and its Portland.
There are several pockets of brewpubs and food trucks, crafts stores and coffee shops,
but on the whole, the experimental, quality-focused joints are spread throughout the
city. This makes it a slowburner of a place, tough to put a fi nger on immediately, but
gradually unveiling.
Therell be a few happy accident discoveries just wandering around, but talking to
locals and a little advance research goes a long way. The resulting small fi nds all set off
a little tingle, with no one in particular giving the full fi rework display. But they mount
up, fi ring like synapses until suddenly the city makes consummate sense.

March 2017 153

PORTLAND
SEE & DO
CYCLE PORTLAND: The bike lane
network makes cycling the ideal way to get
around. Cycle Portland offers rentals and
tours like the Foodie Field Trip a great way
to stumble on coffee shops, food trucks and
ice creameries. portlandbicycletours.com
OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM: Offers
an insight into what makes Portland and
Oregon tick, from the fur trade and farming
to key 1970s environmental policies and
relationships with Native Americans. ohs.org
BREWVANA BREWERY TOURS: At last count,
there were 71 breweries in Portland (the craft
beer capital of the US) and Brewvanas tours
take in a few of the best. Heroically, its had its
bus designated as a tasting room so you can
keep drinking between stops. brewvana.com
INTERNATIONAL ROSE TEST GARDEN: Part
of the humongous Washington Park, this
garden is where new breeds of roses are bred
and tested out, with over 500 varieties on
display. rosegardenstore.org
PREVIOUS PAGE: Portland
Mercury Wall, Powells
City of Books
CLOCKWISE: Exterior
of Andina Restaurant;
cyclist on Hawthorne
Bridge; Jason French,
the chef and owner
of Ned Ludd; guests
socialising at Jupiter
Hotel; Multnomah
Whiskey Library
154 natgeotraveller.co.uk
WORLD FORESTRY CENTER: Also in
Washington Park, the World Forestry Center
offers an interesting take on forests, from
the flora and fauna living at different levels
of hulking great Douglas firs to the fearless
smokejumping firefighters. worldforestry.org
PORTLAND WALKING TOURS: Offers several
tours, with the Underground Portland option
NED LUDD; TRAVELPORTLAND; DINA AVILA/MULTNOMAH
providing a fascinating look at the citys
darker history: shameless Prohibition-era bar
Hi-diddily-ho! // Simpsons
IMAGES: LINCOLN BARBOUR/ANDINA; THE JUPITER;
owners, people being tricked into working creator Matt Groening is from
on ships for years and corrupt cops raking in
backhanders. portlandwalkingtours.com. Portland, and many of the
ALDER STREET FOOD CART POD: Other cities
have food trucks, but Portland goes all-
characters are named after
out. The Alder Street pod, downtown, is Portland streets. Groening
extraordinary for both size (surrounding
an entire city block car park) and variety. himself grew up on NE
Options include jambalaya from Mumbo
Gumbo, Hawaiian loco moco from 808
Flanders Street. It doesnt take
Grinds, Iraqi shawarmas from Al Mawj too much guesswork to figure
and Ethiopian doro watt and injera from
Emames. foodcartsportland.com out who that turned into
BUY Will Leather Goods offers everything from
POWELLS CITY OF BOOKS: The name leather travel bags that feel like theyve been
is apt. The self-styled largest independent passed down through the generations to old-
new and used bookstore in the world is, in school footballs. 1022 W Burnside Street.
equal measures, intimidating and bewitching. NORTH MISSISSIPPI AVENUE: This street in
Amid the canyons of tomes, colour coding and North Portland is emerging as the new bar
section-numbering are essential navigational and restaurant strip of choice, but theres
aids; the Pacific Northwest section is also a lot of shopping options. PDXchange
hearteningly huge. powells.com offers Fairtrade and locally made bags,
UNION WAY: Opposite Powells, Union Way ceramics, metal carvings et al, while Black
is a stylish mini-mall with a local indie Wagon does a superb line in toys that grown-
focus. Danner specialises in outdoor gear ups might secretly want for themselves.
particularly shoes and boots while pdxchange.net blackwagon.com

ZZ
Z SLEEP
JUPITER HOTEL: A converted,
hipped-up motel, the Jupiter comes with
chalkboards on doors and encouragements
for guests to express themselves. Reception
doubles up as an art gallery artists have
been brought in to do individual feature
walls and the neighbouring bar hosts plenty
of bands. jupiterhotel.com
MARK SPENCER HOTEL: Free cookies,
old newspaper cuttings on the walls and
lots of plant-filled public space give the
Mark Spencer a bit of character. Most rooms
PORTLAND
AFTER HOURS
LOYAL LEGION: The hundred-strong
draft list is broken down into types such as
amber, farmhouse, IPA and nitro. Tasting
flights are the way to explore a range of local
brews, with knowledgeable bar staff on hand
to help you choose. loyallegionpdx.com
COOPERS HALL: A hangar-like space, with
one wall stacked with wine barrels and
another lined with on-tap wines Coopers
Hall does wine in a very Portland way. There
are flight options to sample, but this feels
nothing like a snooty, scene-y wine bar.
coopershall.com
MULTNOMAH WHISKEY LIBRARY: There are
so many whiskeys here that they have to be
stored on shelves, like books in a library,
with staff climbing ladders to get at them.
And the drinks list isnt a piece of card its
a book. As spectacular as the choice is the
rich mans private club decor, with chopped
wood by the fireplace, chandeliers and
glorious leather seating. mwlpdx.com
come with kitchenettes, theres a policy of
always upgrading if theres space and there
are beer growlers (jugs) in the room that can
be filled at the nearby Fat Heads Brewery.
markspencer.com
HOTEL LUCIA: One wall is filled with
old cameras, receptionists have a line in
sassy chat, while the minibars have locally
made chocs and love kits. And, if you
choose to forgo your room being made
up, theyll give you $5 minibar credit. Its
high on quirks, but done with panache.
hotellucia.com
March 2017 155
PORTLAND

EAT
CARTOPIA: On the corner of SE 12th
Avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard, this
was where the food truck pod movement
started. Potato Champion does a mean
satay poutine, Tahrir Square goes Egyptian
and PBJs does a hefty, spicy Thai-style
crispy coconut shrimp sandwich with
peanut butter and orange marmalade.
NED LUDD: With a cool cabin look,
wood-fired oven and a tent outside, the
Ned Ludd riffs on rustic kitsch. Theres
an inventive simplicity to the food, with
fare like rabbit or roasted trout served
up with reverentially treated vegetables.
nedluddpdx.com
ANDINA: A sprawling, multi-levelled
jigsaw of a layout is combined with novo-
Peruvian food. Each dish is practically an
essay, with the sources and treatments
of all ingredients described with a love
that borders on the weirdly meticulous.
andinarestaurant.com

LIKE A LOCAL
CREDIT CARD SPLASH: Oregon is one

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER. IMAGES: NED LUDD; DINA AVILA/MULTNOMAH

of the few states in the US that doesnt have a
sales tax which means there are no nasty
surprise additions to bills. It also makes it
a relatively bargainous place for shopping,
with sporting goods and outdoors gear being
particularly good value due to the likes of
Nike and Columbia being Oregon-based.
THE BALL GAME: Portland is one of the
only US cities where football (as in proper
football, played with the feet) is the most
beloved sport. The Portland Timbers games
at Providence Park attract big crowds, and
sports bars tend to have a good atmosphere
when theyre playing. timbers.com
The Green Room, Multnomah
THE HARD STUFF: Micro-distilleries have been
Whiskey Library
popping up across the city in recent years
TOP: Roasted trout, charred leeks, mainly in the south east. Eleven have
spring salad and house charcuterie banded together to offer a $30 (24) tasting
board, Ned Ludd Passport that grants free samples at their
establishments. distilleryrow.pdx

ESSENTIALS Mississippi
Avenue
Portland
PAC IF IC O C EAN

Getting there & around When to go OREGON

BOISE
W

Delta launches direct flights to Portland from Winters are drizzly, with temperatures around 9C.
i

UNITED STATES
Heathrow in May. Until then, there are several Parks are best experienced May-September.
l

OF AMERICA
l

options for one-stop connections within the US.

a
m

Alternatively, a KLM/Delta codeshare via More info

e

PEARL
Amsterdam offers flights from multiple UK travelportland.com oregonlive.com
t

DISTRICT
t

airports, and Icelandair goes via Reykjavik from visittheusa.com

e

six airports, including Glasgow and Manchester. Portland, by Hollyanna McCollom (Moon Union
Providence
R i v e

delta.com icelandair.co.uk Handbooks). RRP: $17.99 (14.19). Way

Park
Alder St
A combination of the MAX Light Rail (which goes food cart pod
How to do it GOOSE
from the airport into town), buses and streetcars Oregon
Washington HOLLOW Historical
makes the public transport better than most US EXPEDIA offers a seven-night break in Portland,
r

Park Society
cities. Its also bike-friendly, and Uber is a good bet if staying at the Hotel Lucia and flying via Chicago DOWNTOWN
on a decent mobile roaming plan. Try Broadway Cab from Heathrow with American Airlines, from 1,091 500 yards
(T: 00 1 503 227 1234) if you need a taxi. per person. expedia.co.uk

156 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 ASK THE
EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP?
ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS,
TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL
GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS
Q // In the wake of Ever since I first visited Cuba in
the 1980s, Ive been fretting about
Fidel Castros death, when this beautiful, wayward
what can I expect island might change. But since
if I travel to Cuba then, aside from a few rough
patches notably in the mid-
this year? 1990s during the economic crisis
of the so-called Special Period
the island has only improved for
the international traveller. Cities,
coasts and countryside seem
largely unscathed by the 20th
century, and the warmth of the
people is as intense as ever.
Following the thawing in US-
Cuban relations during Obamas
tenure, 2017 could be an ideal
time to visit, while the island
is blossoming with increased
tourist numbers; and before the
uncertainty surrounding Trumps
foreign policies truly sets in.
158 natgeotraveller.co.uk
At the moment, Havana has a
shortage of hotel beds, with most
booked up by groups of American
visitors. Fortunately, locals are
opening up their homes as casas
particulares private houses
open to fee-paying guests. These
homestays pre-date services such
as Airbnb and provide great value
for tourists as well as offering an
insight into Cuban life. Booking
a homestay online isnt easy; for
independent travellers, asking
around is a foolproof way to find a
bed someone always has room.
Self-driving is an option, but
given that Cuba is a long, skinny
island (its over 540 miles from
Havana to the second city,
Santiago de Cuba), I recommend
hopping from one end to the other
on Viazul buses (and taking trains
where possible, although these are
harder to come by) and then flying
back to the capital.
In a country not much smaller
than England but with one-
fifth of the population, there
are plenty of spots to escape
to. South of Varadero, the port
town of Cardenas is the epitome
of graceful decline. Take the
highway east from here, carving
through sleepy villages and sugar
plantations to the exquisite
colonial town of Remedios. And
for a taste of history, head to the
countrys oldest town of Baracoa,
where Columbus first landed in
1492. The port was battered by
Hurricane Matthew in 2016 but
like so much in Cuba has
picked itself up, made do and
mended. SIMON CALDER
 Q // What is In the 25 years that British Airways
has run its Flying With Confidence
turbulence and how
dangerous is it for
plane passengers?
courses aimed at helping nervous
flyers, weve found that turbulence
is the most common fear among
anxious customers. However, ask
any pilot how much they worry
about turbulence and the answer
will be the same: not at all. No
more than a driver worries about
a bump in the road.
Apart from wake turbulence,
which is similar to the wake left
behind by a boat, all turbulence is
caused by nature. The mixing of
fast- and slow-moving air causes
small variations in the lift being
produced by an aircraft wing.
This variation may at times feel
uncomfortable, but its never
dangerous. Modern aircraft are
incredibly strong and wont suffer
Q // I'm hiking in How about concentrating on
Graubnden, the sensational Beverin Nature
Park, home to dramatic canyons,
Switzerland this village scenery and crystal-clear
year. Wheres the mountain lakes? There are some
best pre-pitched modest camping options around
the perimeter (due to the snowy
campsite for a winters, the Swiss favour more
first-time camper? robust B&Bs and chalets).
But in the heart of Beverin,
near the village of ThalerLotsch,
youll find a one-of-a-kind
glamping experience. Null Stern
Hotel has no walls; what it does
structural damage in turbulence.
So as long as you keep your seat
belt on, youre safe.
Pilots know their aircraft is able
to withstand even the most severe
turbulence, so theyre totally at
ease with this perfectly normal
flying experience.
On our courses, we explain all
this in detail and while we dont
ask people to like turbulence, we
do ask people to understand it, to
accept that its part and
parcel of flying
and, crucially,
we teach
some simple
techniques
to manage any
anxiety caused
by it.
CAPTAIN STEVE ALLRIGHT
have, however, is one isolated,
snug double bed where during
the warm summer months
guests can sleep under the
stars and wake to see the sunrise
over the Alpine foothills. No tent
poles, no air mattress; its a gift
to weary hikers (and reluctant
campers). Guests even get coffee
and breakfast brought out to
them by a butler. To reserve,
contact info@nullsternhotel.ch
null-stern-hotel.ch
AMELIA DUGGAN
health corner
Q // How do I stay safe
while diving?
No activity is risk-free, but proper
training, refresher courses and the
following precautions will help
keep you safe:
Check equipment
beforehand,
especially if rented
Never dive alone
Ensure you and
your partner keep
hydrated and avoid
alcohol before diving
Be aware of weather,
wind and currents
Familiarise yourself
with the medical back-
up before you dive, e.g.
nearest hyperbaric chamber
Be aware of the dangers posed
by inexperienced divers and
surface vessels
Reduce the risks of
decompression sickness and
nitrogen narcosis by avoiding
long and deep dives, ascending
slowly and paying heed to
decompression tables
Avoid flying for 12-18 hours or
more after diving
Have a healthy respect for sea-
life and dont touch anything
DR PAT GARROD

Q // Im travelling to Canada turns 150 this year, Cartier Bridge, plus Montreals

Canada this summer.

meaning its a fine time for a usual roster of summer festivals THE EXPERTS
celebratory visit. The country is (including the massive Festival
Where do you marking the occasion with year- International de Jazz de Montral SIMON CALDER //
recommend that round festivals, exhibitions and Just for Laughs). TRAVEL JOURNALIST
and events, which will From Montreal, Ottawa and the SIMONCALDER.CO.UK
best combines a reach a crescendo National Capital Region where
city and big around Canada many of the 150th celebrations CAPTAIN STEVE ALLRIGHT //

outdoors Day (1 July). The are taking place are close at FLYINGWITHCONFIDENCE.
COM
Francophone city hand. Parks Canada is offering
experience? of Montreal also free admission to its natural and
AMELIA DUGGAN //
celebrates a big historical heritage sites in 2017, ASSISTANT EDITOR,
birthday in 2017 and from Ottawa/Montreal, youre NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
(375 years since its not too far from wilderness spots TRAVELLER (UK)
founding) so theres such as Algonquin Provincial Park,
probably no better Bruce Peninsula National Park and SARAH BARRELL //
ASSOCIATE EDITOR,
place to join the the beautiful Thousand Islands.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
party. You can expect tourisme-montreal.org
TRAVELLER (UK)
IMAGES: GETTY

some ambitious public travelontario.co.uk

art and culture projects, pc.gc.ca DR PAT GARROD //
including an illumination uk-keepexploring.canada.travel TRAVEL AUTHOR
of the vast Jacques SARAH BARRELL THEWORLDOVERLAND.COM

March 2017 159

 TRAVEL GEEKS

THE GRAPHIC

LONDONS SKYLINE WITH YET ANOTHER SKYSCRAPER THE 1,000FT-HIGH

TRELLIS EARMARKED FOR THE CAPTIAL, ITS TIME
TO GET TO KNOW LONDONS EVER-CHANGING SKYLINE

BT TOWER // 627FT TOWER 42 // 600FT ONE CANADA SQUARE // 770FT

A child of the Cold War era, it was designed to Seen from above, the shape of the tower Upon its completion in 1991, it
withstand a nuclear blast and houses a bunker resembles the logo of its original owner, enjoyed a very short run as the
complete with chemical toilets. NatWest Bank PLC. tallest building in Europe.

LONDON EYE // 443FT 122 LEADENHALL // 737FT

On average, it receives more The roof of the Cheesegrater is home
visitors per year than the Taj Mahal to a falcons nest.
and Pyramids of Giza. Theres no
number 13 capsule, for good luck.

THE SHARD // 1,016FT

Europes tallest building.
During construction,
a fox was found
by workers on the
72nd storey.

20 FENCHURCH STREET // 525FT 30 ST MARY AXE // 591FT

The Walkie Talkie contains a three- 7,429 panes of glass were used in
storey public garden at the top. the Gherkins construction.

STRATA SE1 // 486FT

The turbines on The TALL WORLD
Razor are audible to
those on the upper A skyscraper is any 1 2 3 4 39
floors, so theyre building over 150m HONG KONG NEW YORK DUBAI SHANGHAI LONDON
switched off at night, (492ft) high. Compared
reducing the amount
of power generated.
to other cities, London
really only has a few: 316 243 153 148 19
1 UNDERSHAFT
(THE TRELLIS)
LEADENHALL
FENCHURCH
CATHEDRAL

MARY AXE
TOWER 42
ST PAULS

CANADA

LONDON
BIG BEN

SQUARE

STRATA

STREET
TOWER

SHARD
30 ST
ONE

THE
EYE

SE1
BT

122
20

1711 1859 1965 1980 1991 1999 2003 2010 2013 2014 2014 2020?

160 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 TRAVEL GEEKS

HOT TOPIC

DESTINATIONS THAT DON'T WANT YOU

SOME OF THE WORLDS MOST MAGNIFICENT, QUINTESSENTIALLY QUAINT
AND WONDERFULLY WILD PLACES WOULD RATHER YOU DIDNT VISIT
WORDS: JAMES DRAVEN

A swathe of white sand backed by
verdurous rainforest gently slopes
into azure seas; manta rays and
whale sharks glide through the
clear waters around Thailands
Koh Tachai, one of the finest diving
destinations on the planet. This
island is a snorkellers nirvana and
a beach-lovers wonderland. Its
perfect because youre not here.
And you cant come either. Due
to pressure on the ecosystem and
coral reef damage caused by mass
tourism, the local environment has
been deemed unable to restore
itself by authorities and since
15 May 2016, Koh Tachai has been
indefinitely closed to visitors.
Anyone whos ever gone for
a paddle and ended up wading
through a quagmire of plastic
bags or found themselves
swimming in an oily sea of
motorboat fuel can probably
see the authorities point. The
only way to protect some of the
planets most pristine places is to
limit access to them.
years) due to tourist footfall, and
Perus Inca Trail has a cap of 500
visitors per day with 300 of
those spaces allocated to guides,
porters and cooks.
Starting this year, Greece's
Santorini is imposing a limit of
8,000 daily arrivals by sea. Cinque
Terre, a string of five fishing
villages on the Italian Riviera, is
using a visitor permit system to
cap tourist numbers at 1.5 million
per year. In Venice, as daily visitor
numbers exceed the size of the
population, residents have taken
to the streets and the water luxury hotels), meals, domestic
demanding a tourism cap.
Brandishing billboards and staging
swimming blockades to keep
cruise ships from docking, it looks
likely that the Floating City will be
next to limit visitor numbers.
In Barcelona, mayor Ada Colau
has expressed her fears of mass
tourism degrading the Spanish
destinations appeal. We want
visitors to get to know the real
Barcelona, not a Barcelona
them and some economies are
reliant on tourism for survival.
One solution lies in another
industry trope: high value, low
impact tourism. This means fewer
people can afford to visit but
those who do, spend more. This
is great for everyone except
those who arent super-rich.
Bhutans system imposes a
daily fee on each tourist of either
US$200 (162) or $250 (202),
dependent on season. This covers
three-star accommodation
(you can pay more to stay in
transport and a guide. Plus,
$65 (52) of the fee goes to
free education, free healthcare,
infrastructure development
and poverty alleviation. Its a
system that makes tourism part
of the solution rather than part
of the problem.
Q&A
Q: WHAT OTHER PLACES HAVE
CAPPED TOURIST NUMBERS?
1 // Australias Lord Howe Island,
in the Tasman Sea, restricts
numbers to 400 people at a time
2 // Antarctica has banned
ships carrying more than 500
passengers, with a maximum
of 100 visitors allowed on
shore at once
3 // Bwindi Impenetrable National
Park in Uganda only allows
eight guests per day to visit
a gorilla family
4 // Just 100 people can hike New
Zealands famous Milford Track
in Fiordland National Park at
one time
5 // Iceland is limiting tourism by
controlling the number of hotel
beds available
6 // The Galapagos Islands and
Perus Machu Picchu are famous
for limiting their tourist numbers
7 // The Seychelles is also among
the countries planning to cap
tourism in the future

Take only photographs; leave theme park full of McDonalds

only footprints, may well be
the mantra of every eco-tourist
the world over, but millions of
delicate footsteps over time
can have a significant impact on
pre-Colombian walking trails or
centuries-old stairs.
Romes famous Spanish Steps
had to be closed for renovation
in 2015 (for the second time in 20
IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: DANIEL BRIGHT
Q: WHAT ABOUT ALLOCATED
and souvenirs, without any real
ENTRY OR A LOTTERY TO LIMIT
identity, Ms Colau told The TOURIST NUMBERS?
Guardian in 2016. It's a good idea in theory, but
Many industry experts agree governments would have to
that tourism caps are better put systems in place to prevent
for the environment, better for the creation of a lucrative black
architecture, better for residents, market, which would also drive
and better for visitors, too. But Tropical beach of up the costs without passing on
Koh Tachai island benefit to local communities.
turning away tourist dollars isn't
better for those dependent on

AND ANOTHER THING NEW ICELAND ADVENTURES

COOL CRUISING
Explore Icelands whale-
and dolphin-rich waters
aboard Callisto. Join a
seven-day summer cruise
along the northwest coast,
with tours to black sand
beaches, glaciers and hot
springs. seafarercruises.com
FINE DINING
Forget rotten shark;
stay at Hotel Rang and
relish modern Nordic
dishes such as lightly
smoked puffin, reindeer
carpaccio and Arctic chard
with cauliflower foam.
hotelranga.is
ICELAND AT HOME GO WEST BUDDY UP
Londons Southbank Visit Icelands still-forming Icelandairs Stopover
Centre is hosting a year- Westman Islands. Volcanic Buddy ends 31 March;
long celebration of Nordic Surtsey appeared above the free service sees
art and culture. Don't miss the surface in 1963, while transatlantic travellers
Neil Gaiman retelling Norse Heimaey grew by a square paired with a local, letting
mythology and Mirth mile after erupting in 1973. you see the country
Control with Sandi Toksvig. Tours on land and sea with through the eyes of an
southbankcentre.co.uk originaltravel.co.uk Icelander. icelandair.co.uk

March 2017 161

TRAVEL GEEKS

CHECKLIST:
E-READERS

BEST FOR LONG BATTERY LIFE

Amazon Kindle Oasis
RRP: 269.99
amazon.co.uk
7BOOK
waysA CHEAP
to RAIL TICKET
THE RAIL GEEKS AT EUROPEAN TRAIN BOOKING WEBSITE LOCO2.COM HAVE
CRUNCHED DATA FROM OVER 400,000 SEARCHES AND COME UP WITH THE SECRET OF
BAGGING A CHEAP TICKET. WE OUTLINE SEVEN WAYS THEYVE FOUND TO SAVE

1. IT PAYS TO PLAN in December for winter ski train type services and in
Britain has some of the most competitive fares in July for summer services. Keep your eyes peeled for
Europe but only if you book in advance. Our walk- changes and associated deals.
up fares are some of the most expensive around,
BEST FOR LARGER SCREEN especially if you try to travel during peak hours, 5. LAST MINUTES MATTER
Bookeen Cybook Ocean Monday-Friday. Booking in advance saves a whacking Left it until the very last minute to book that train
RRP: 160 potential average of 43% on walk-up fares. Savings ticket? Panic not. In the UK, cheaper advance tickets
bookeen.com are less in Europe, around 23-32% on average. are often available for purchase until 18.59 the day
before travel sometimes as late as 23.59. So its
2. WHATS IN A NAME? always worth hopping online and
Everything, when it comes to buying, rather than waiting to queue
snagging that big saving. European at the counter for a wallet-wounding
operators name their advance 32% experience on the day of travel.
tickets very differently, although Potential average savings Savings can be found in numerous
thankfully theyre often grounded on tickets in France and places online but nobody can make
in the international language of Italy made by booking discounts like the train operators
commerce. Look out for words in advance rather than themselves. Just be wary of eye-
paying the walk-up fare.
such as advance, super, prems watering booking fees.
In Spain it's 23%.
and promo.
54% 6. TRAVEL MIDWEEK
BEST FOR BUDGET 3. KNOW WHEN TO BOOK The possible savings that Most people travel at the weekend or
Amazon Kindle Rail operators in Europe release can be made by booking at the sharp ends of the week. If you
RRP: 59.99 their tickets at different times. For UK rail tickets 10 weeks go midweek, ideally on a Wednesday,
amazon.co.uk example, you get the best deals in advance. it could be up to 16% cheaper than
on Eurostar and German operator travelling on a Friday.
Deutsche Bahn if you book six 18%
The savings that can be
months ahead, whereas Spains Renfe
made by booking UK rail
7. EURO STARS
and Italys Trenitalia usually open As all international train journeys
tickets just one day
booking only around three months in advance. from the UK start with Eurostar, youd
before the date of travel. In the UK, better know when to look for those
you can book a maximum of 84 days 22 cheap tickets. Eurostar has London-
in advance. Set yourself an alert for The cheapest one-way Paris tickets for under 50 available
IMAGES: ISTOCKPHOTO; GETTY

key booking periods for the countries
you intend to travel to/through.
4. LOOK OUT FOR SEASONAL
BEST FOR BUILT-IN LIGHT TIMETABLE CHANGES
Kobo Aura Edition 2 The booking period varies widely
RRP: 99.99 between French train operators, with
kobo.com seasonal timetables often modified
fare between London each day of the week but Loco2.com
and Avignon, in the reckons your chances of finding one
south of France, if
is best on Wednesday afternoon.
booked the maximum
number of days in
advance. The same Data is based on analysis of searches
ticket, purchased on carried out by Loco2.com between
the day of travel, would June-September 2016. For more info:
cost 108. loco2.com/blog/train-travel-infographic

162 natgeotraveller.co.uk

Tech traveer
A FOODIE FEAST
Food and travel are a great combination. To get the full flavour of a
destination, check out these globetrotting websites for foodies
A growing number of us travel
for culinary experiences, as
evidenced by Instagram, which
is rife with photos of peoples
dinner plates. To make sure you
get the best titillation for your
taste buds wherever you are
with Vizeat (vizeat.com), where
youll find recommendations
from locals for immersive food
experiences, including cooking
classes, eating events and the
chance to book dinner with a
local host, Airbnb-style.
Another good tool for hosted
meals is Traveling Spoon
(travelingspoon.com),
which connects
you with vetted
local hosts for a
home-cooked meal
and the chance
to learn about
local cultural
and culinary
traditions.
As well as
tasting new
and exciting
food, youre
bound to meet
interesting
people youd
never have
GET THE GADGET
Handpresso Portable Espresso Machine
The thing I miss most when Im
travelling is a decent cup of coffee
in the morning. Handpresso lets
you take your favourite grounds
with you to enjoy wherever you
are. The company has a range of
compact, portable machines,
starting at 70 (60). The pump-
powered one is perfect for
TRAVEL GEEKS
TECHNOLOGY REPORTER FOR @BBCCLICK
AND AUTHOR OF WORKING THE CLOUD,
KATE RUSSELL PICKS THE LATEST INNOVATIONS
TOP APPS FOR...
Saving memories
encountered otherwise. A lot
of social tools for foodies have
launched over the past few years
but an old favourite of mine,
Food Spotting (foodspotting.com),
is still the site to beat. Use it to
find like-minded foodies around
the globe and share photos and
recommendations a great way
PIC SCANNER GOLD
IOS, 3.99. If you have a stack of old photos you
to find out what looks tasty where
want to add to your digital collection, Pic Scanner
youre heading. Another trend Gold has been designed for just that job. Use
thats exploded recently is food- your phone to snap a copy and the app will
related TV shows. If youve seen convert it into a high-quality digital image.
places on telly youd like to visit, picscannergold.com
use TV Food Maps (tvfoodmaps.
com) to find the restaurants ESPLORIO
IOS, FREE. Use Esplorio to record and share your
and locations featured, then
travels, including noting down routes, places and
plan your trip around those
photos as you go. esplor.io
destinations. If you
have special dietary GOOGLE PHOTOS
requirements such IOS/ANDROID/WEB. FREE. If you have an Android
as allergies and phone connected to your Google account youre
are confused by probably already using Google Photos without
foreign food realising. With apps for iOS and Android, it offers
labels, you can unlimited online storage for your photos.
photos.google.com
use the open-
source database
at Open Food
PASTBOOK
IOS/WEB. FREE. Create wonderful books of your
Facts (world. holiday snaps, drawing content from Facebook and
openfoodfacts. Instagram. Making a digital book is free, but youll
org) to check the have to pay printing costs if you want a physical
contents of a book delivered. moments.pastbook.com
packet by scanning
the barcode.
camping trips. Just boil up some
clean water over a fire, pump up
the required pressure by hand, and
youll have bistro-quality espresso
out in the wilds in no time. For 179
(153), you can get a travel kit with
a pump and espresso cups in a
neat little carry case. @katerussell
handpresso.com katerussell.co.uk
March 2017 163
TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION 2017

Tael Witing Compeition 2017

DO YOU WANT
TO WRITE FOR
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER?
Have a way with words and an eye for a story?
Find yourself scribbling notes when travelling?
Or are you perhaps a budding blogger?
If you think you have what it takes to write for us, enter our annual
Travel Writing Competition. Your work could appear in National
IMAGE: QUARKEXPEDITIONS.COM/STEVENG-DENVER

Geographic Traveller (UK) and you could win a place on a 10-day polar
expedition to Greenland with Quark Expeditions

If youre ready to transform your love
of writing into a career and see your
work published in one of the UKs most
prestigious travel magazines, our
Travel Writing Competition 2017 could
be your fortuitous foot in the door.
For your chance to be noticed, simply
write 500 words on an inspirational
travel experience.
Keep your piece focused, capture the
essence of the destination and ensure your
writing has National Geographic Traveller
(UK)s defining features: immersive travel and
authentic storytelling.
DEADLINE: 15 May 2017. Terms and conditions apply.
See more and enter online at natgeotraveller.co.uk/
competitions

164 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION 2017

The
ie The winner will see their
piece published in the
magazine and online at
natgeotraveller.co.uk, ensuring
major exposure. This is the
perfect opportunity for a writer
with a sense of adventure whos hoping to
expand their career through one of the UKs
most successful travel magazines.
Plus, youll join the 10-day Arctic
Express: Greenlands Northern Lights polar
expedition with Quark Expeditions, worth
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of viewing some of the worlds most vivid
displays of the Northern Lights.
Youll also have the chance to trek
along the tundra, climb mountains and
watch grazing musk ox and other arctic
wildlife on the horizon. The prize is for
one person, and includes flights from
Dublin or London. Expedition dates are
24 September to 3 October 2017 aboard the
Ocean Nova. quarkexpeditions.com

March 2017 165

TRAVEL GEEKS
HOW I GOT THE SHOT
WILDFLOWERS AT SUNSET
EWEN BELL, PHOTOGRAPHER OF OUR AUSTRALIA PHOTO
STORY ON P.132, EXPLAINS HOW HE BALANCED LIGHTING
TO SHOOT THIS IMAGE OF THE FLINDERS RANGES
Two things make this shot
possible: shooting at the very
last light of day and working with
a fast prime lens. At this time of
day, the direct sunlight has lost
its intensity and the colour of the
sunshine drenches everything in a
golden yellow hue.
The wild grasses and shrubs are
already bone dry and the light
removes almost every last hint of
green from the landscape. Instead
of fighting the monochromatic
nature of the scene, I delved
deeper into it by turning my lens
into the sun.
In the preceding days I had seen
these flowers all over the Flinders
Ranges, so I wanted an image that
celebrated their charm. These
flowers do well in the dry sections
166 natgeotraveller.co.uk
of the landscape anywhere the
terrain is open and full of rocks.
Technically, this shot is very
simple: it demands a little
imagination more than a depth
By shooting at f/2, of experience. Shooting into the
sun lets you adjust how contrast
I soften the flaring plays out in a scene. It typically
that would otherwise gives you less colour, depending
leave an obvious trail on how much you angle away
from the sun itself. I love this idea
across the frame, and
for compositions as it lets you
just a hint of colour hide things in plain sight, such
distortion remains as a road or a farmhouse. Things
where the flowers have can get lost in the bokeh or the
shadows or both.
caught focus. Shooting at f/2 lets me highlight
the hero of the shot the flowers
because all else drops away
out of focus. By kneeling down
into the grass myself, I can work
LIKE THIS? READ MORE
Similar features can be found in our
new free, digital-only Photography
Magazine. Issue 6 sponsored by Ponant
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Shinjuku crossing

170 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 JAPAN: NO PLACE
LIKE HOMESTAYS
THE BEST WAY TO DISCOVER THE SIMILARITIES AND DIFFERENCES IN A NEW
DESTINATION IS ON A HOMESTAY. AND IN TOKYO, NEGOTIATING JAPANESE CULTURE
CAN BE MADE EASY WITH THE HELP OF A LOCAL. WORDS: JOHN MALATHRONAS
T
his powers everything
up, explains Tanya
leaning over the
forbidding Japanese toilet. This
switch here is for warming up the
seat in winter. You control the
temperature with these buttons.
That switch lets off a jet of water.
You control the flow from here
and the pressure from there. This
switch with the womans face is
not for you. It makes the toilet
function like a bidet. She stops
to check whether Ive cottoned
on. When shes happy I have,
she continues: And this is the
timer in case you want to save
electricity and start the warm-up
at 8am, say. Simple really!
Im in Tokyo with Tanya and
her husband Toshiro, whom I
met through Homestay.com, a
website connecting travellers
across the globe with families
that have a spare room to rent. In
my case, it was more like a spare
wing, for T and T, as I ended up
calling them, are a well-off couple
who like to welcome tourists now
the kids have fled the nest. I was
expecting a rabbit hutch and
got a large room instead, with
a double bed, sofa, shell chair,
coffee table, built-in wardrobe,
fridge, microwave and air con.
IMAGE: GETTY
Our living room had designer
Italian furniture, the dining room
a crystal chandelier of cathedral
proportions, while the bathroom
was furnished with Murano
glass. It also included one of
those high-tech toilets full
of lights and buttons. One of
the delights of living with a
Japanese family is that theyre
there to explain how to use that
perplexing piece of porcelain.
Toshiro is a successful Tokyoite
entrepreneur and, although
Tanya comes from Khabarovsk in
Siberia, shes totally acclimatised
after many years in Japan. She
shows me where to leave my
shoes upon entering, gives me a
rundown of the neighbourhood
and explains the ritual of the
Japanese bath, where you
shower before you climb into
the bathtub. But what I find most
remarkable is that she leaves
the house door open. Not on the
latch wide open. When I ask
her about it, she shrugs. Theres
no crime in Japan, she says, and
thats that.
Id often heard it said that
Japan is like another planet
and that you have to live
there to grasp it. Id also been
warned about the sensory
overload it unleashes upon a
new arrival. Even so, nothing
can really prepare you for the
onslaught. Tokyo streets are full
of automatic announcements,
voiced in a girlish inflection so
uniform I wonder whether a
single actress has her work cut
out for a lifetime. ATMs thank you
profusely and express the hope
youll return to the same obliging
hole-in-the-wall for your future
withdrawals. Even ambulances
alternate their piercing sirens
with loudhailers roaring out of
the way in a male, Japanese, full-
throated baritone.
If the noise doesnt overwhelm
you, the colours will. While were
all used to neon signs at night,
the Japanese seem to want to
replicate the effect during the
day. Garish adverts in blue, green,
red and orange compete for your
attention, the design philosophy
seemingly being be brighter than
your neighbour.
Thankfully, Im not alone in the
big city. My jet lag works to my
advantage and Im usually
up early every morning to plan
the days sightseeing, with T
and T offering both advice TV looming at the edge of the
and a lift to the nearest subway
station. On Sunday, having
ascertained my interests, they
drive me to Toyota City on the
artificial island of Odaiba in
Tokyo Bay, where I find myself
in petrolhead heaven among
classic cars, safety simulators,
virtual test drives, monster SUVs
and the latest aerodynamic
models with hydrogen fuel
cells. Afterwards, they cook me
a sumptuous supper on their
terrace, where the only noise
is the odd barking dog and the
lighting is moody and subdued,
courtesy of a pair of floor lamps.
Admittedly, the food and
the outing are paid extras,
not included in the homestay
rate, but both gestures are
nevertheless welcome.
At the end of my stay, I thank
T and T for my sanity. In a city
like Tokyo, its great to have a
steady frame of reference amid
the flash and the flicker, the hiss
and the hum.
Brushing up
Miyakos Kyoto apartment is more
in tune with my expectations
of a Japanese home: compact,
with sliding fusuma screens
and futons on tatami mats,
yet bouncing with gadgets.
Apart from the monstrous
kitchen-diner, theres a small
oven-grill, a microwave, a fryer, a
massive washing machine and a
leviathan of a fridge-freezer. And
somehow the toilet here is even
smarter: upon flushing, water
automatically flows onto
an attached basin so we can
wash our hands.
Here, my height is to my
disadvantage: just like Bill Murray
March 2017 171
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

ANDAZ TOKYO
TORANOMON HILLS:

Arrive a visitor
DEPART
A LOCAL
With a brand deeply
rooted in culture, Andaz
Tokyo Toranomon
Hills is committed to
providing an unscripted
Japanese-inspired
experience

Located
between the
Designed by renowned interior designers Tony Tokyo Tower and
Chi, of New York, and Shinichiro Ogata, of Tokyo, Imperial Palace, the
the hotel reflects Japans cultural emphasis hotel offers easy access
on beauty and purity of form, with natural to various locations,
materials like washi paper and walnut wood sites and cultural
used throughout. A total of 164 spacious guest attractions
rooms, including eight suites, all offer stunning
views of Tokyos skyline, with deep soaking tubs,
inspired by Japanese bath culture, featuring in
the bathrooms.
The hotel has an array of restaurants and bars
that showcase Japans culinary scene, all using fresh,
seasonal and local ingredients. In a dramatic setting
on the 51st floor, the main dining venue, Andaz Tavern,
features floor-to-ceiling windows and suspended
wooden sculptures. On the rooftop, the bar showcases
a modern take on a Japanese Katsura Rikyu villa. Craft
cocktails are infused with premium teas and seasonal
fruits and, further in, a sushi counter run by master
sushi chefs serves up an omakase-style menu.
Theres a spa equipped with a pool, carbonated bath,
floating jet bath and range of fitness training machines,
plus five treatment rooms. At the heart of the spa is
the Blend Bar, where therapists use an apothecary
approach to blend seasonal fruits, herbs, minerals and
essential oils for individual spa treatments.
When guests are ready to explore the capital, Andaz
Hosts are on hand to offer insider knowledge and tips. T: + 81 3 6830 1234. W: andaztokyo.com

in Lost in Translation, I cant
extend the shower to above my
head and every time I stand up
from my futon I bang my head on
the paper-lantern lampshade.
Miyako likes to introduce
her guests to Japanese
culture, so she takes out her
calligraphy pack. Were about
to practice shod, the Way of
Writing. As she stabilises her
diaphanous washi papers with
a bunchin lead weight, it occurs to
me this is an act unchanged in a
over a thousand years.
Faced with the blank sheet,
youre allowed one stroke and
you must be bold, quick and
unthinking, if youre going to
get the complex curves correct.
Miyako wets the suzuri inkstone
calligraphy board and spends
several minutes rubbing
the sumi ink stick (a solid mixture
of soot and glue) on the surface.
She brings four fud bamboo
brushes for different strokes; we
use the big, fluffy one made out
of badgers hair. Well first write
down my name in easy katakana,
although this syllabary is frowned
upon in shod. Its going to be
six letters, ma-ra-su-ro-na-su,
so she folds the paper to form
six equal squares. She draws the
letters with downward strokes,
moving from left to right and
then puts another washi paper
IMAGE: JOHN MALATHRONAS
on top so that I can duplicate the
characters below. She explains
that the strokes have a natural
sequence: you cant start with a
vertical instead of a horizontal
or change the direction. I try my
Zen best and treat the writing
like a dance. Miyako is pleased
Good, very good, she says.
Youre very good at calligraphy
and stamps the result with her
personal red seal.
We move on to squiggly
hiragana and Im all at sea.
Miyako tries to suppress her
merriment, but she persists and
patiently explains the stroke
sequences. Then on to my
first name, John, much easier
with three letters: dzi-yo-n. I
compose with my eyes open and
yet closed and Miyako becomes
effusive about my hiragana n,
in particular its lower curve. She
shows my effort to her husband,
whos been watching baseball on
TV all this time. He looks at my n,
bows appreciatively and smiles.
Were all happy, although Im not
sure why. You are a good pupil,
Miyako says. I look at my n. I
cant see what the fuss is about,
but shes over the moon. You are
a good teacher, I reply.
Next day, Miyako takes me
to Imamiya Shrine in the north
of Kyoto. A far cry from the
centre of the city, with its dozen
Automaton // Tokyo
streets are full of
automatic
announcements,
voiced in a girlish
inflection so uniform I 2. RIO DE JANEIRO
wonder if a single
actress has her work
Olympics, as well as the major
cut out for a lifetime. infrastructure accompanying
ATMs thank you
profusely and express
the hope youll return
for future withdrawals
Tanya and Toshiro
HOMESTAYS
Havana
FIVE GREAT HOMESTAY
DESTINATIONS
1. CUBA
Homestays, or casas particulares,
have long been a popular
accommodation choice in Cuba
but theyre more popular than ever
now with the surge of international
arrivals. After decades of
embargoed isolation, Cubas
people are craving contact, and
very keen to show off their culture.
The pacification of the favelas
for the World Cup and the
them, has opened up the rental
sector for good.
3. RUSSIA
Moscow and St Petersburg
both have a lot to offer the
independent traveller but their
limited hotel infrastructure is
geared to groups and business
travellers, so families trying to
earn an extra rouble are stepping
in to fill the gap.
4. VENICE
Homestays lend themselves
better to sightseeing than
drinking or clubbing at night,
so a combination of expensive
accommodation and lack of
nightlife make cities like Venice
ideal for what amounts to a
flatshare on a city break.
5. TORONTO
The cultural and linguistic bonds
that tie Canadians with Europe
make homestays in popular cities
like Toronto feel like visiting
distant relatives: you vaguely
know they exist, youre glad to
make their acquaintance and you
end up realising how much you
have in common.
March 2017 173
HOMESTAYS
or so UNESCO World Heritage
Sites and swarms of sightseers,
Imamiya is largely deserted.
Miyako escorts me in, goes
through the ceremonial Shinto
ablutions and leads me to a
covered chapel, in the middle of
which theres a stone.
This is the Omokaru-Ishi, she
tells me. The heavy-light stone.
You make a wish, rub the stone
three times clockwise and lift
it. Then you do it again: make a
wish, rub it three times, lift it. If it
appears lighter the second time,
your wish will come true.
She goes through the ritual
herself, and then lets me
repeat it.
Hey, thats funny.
Miyako picks up on my vibe.
Did the stone appear lighter the
second time? she asks.
I think it did.
Then your wish will come
true, she says and beams.
Strangers on a train
Would I recommend a homestay?
On the downside: well, most
families live in suburbia and you
could face long commutes on
174 natgeotraveller.co.uk
buses as well as on the subway, so
the transport-phobic should take
heed. To my surprise, though,
I found Japanese buses very
easy to use. They arrive on time,
theyre frequent, stops are hard
to miss with their glowing digital
displays, plus, of course, those
constant announcements. On
the upside theres the low price,
the congeniality of the hosts
and the reassurance of staying
with a friendly, helpful family.
But the biggest plus point of all
is they can provide an intimate,
revelatory look at a different
culture and a means of touching
the soul of another country.
Its said that when we first
experience a society we tend was a workaholic and now Im an
to concentrate on differences,
while a second glance reveals the
similarities. Ill go further.
A more in-depth look also
finds differences, but on an
individual level, for of course,
whatever our culture, were all
unique. Homestays allow you to
meet individuals and do away
with stereotypes.
I lost my way several times
in Tokyo. Its easy to follow a
CLOCKWISE: Imamiya Shrine; Shibuya crossing;
Johns calligraphy attempts drying on the floor
single way out sign, but harder
when there are 15 separate ones
competing for your attention
in massive corridors heaving
with people. It was on one such
occasion an elderly man in a suit
asked me in perfect English if I
was lost.
Im afraid so, I replied.
Which way to the Ginza Line
towards Shibuya? My companion
took me to the right platform,
boarded the train with me and
started recounting his life.
Youre from London? I bought
an apartment in France. Toulouse.
My wife and I go live there every
two months. I enjoy the food
but mostly I enjoy the wine. I
alcoholic, he says and giggles at
his own joke. Im retired and now
for me its Sunday every day. I
love doing nothing and finding out
about Europe. This summer we
drove all over Scotland. Next year
itll be Spain. Europe is beautiful.
Beautiful but strange.
I could say the same about
Japan, I reply. And we both nod
in agreement; two strangers on
a train.
HOW DO TO IT
HOMESTAY.COM has stays at
Miyakos home in Kyoto from
38 per room per night on a
B&B basis. Stays at Toshiro and
Tanyas home in Tokyo from
36 per room per night, B&B.
homestay.com
JAPAN AIRLINES flies daily
from London to Tokyo Haneda
Airport from 649; check the
website for special offers. Its
Japan Explorer Pass, which
can be bought online if you live
outside Japan, lets you book
up to six internal flights for
around 80 per leg.
world.jal.com/world/en/japan_
explorer_pass/uk uk.jal.com
MORE INFO
IMAGES: JOHN MALATHRONAS; GETTY
The Japan National Tourism
Organization has maps,
brochures and suggestions for
your trip itll even pay the
postage. seejapan.co.uk
 Changgyeong Palace, Seoul, Korea
Mount Fuji, Japan

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FIFA World Cup, followed by the Winter
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T: 020 7321 2535

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FOOD ALLERGIES:
A TRAVELLERS GUIDE
FOR PEOPLE WITH SERIOUS FOOD ALLERGIES, THE USUAL TRAVELLING PEEVES AND
NIGGLES CAN BE HYPER-MAGNIFIED INTO MATTERS OF LIFE OR DEATH. BUT, IF YOU
APPROACH IT WITH THE RIGHT ATTITUDE AND ARE PREPARED TO PREPARE, THE
WORLD CAN STILL BE YOUR OYSTER. WORDS: ADRIAN QUINE
A
s a journalist and
seasoned traveller, few
things faze me. Ive
reported from war-torn
Afghanistan, made night-time
forays across deserts in the back
of a pick-up truck, and locked
horns with hardened commercial
CEOs. My profession has made
me resourceful. So why does the
prospect of a family getaway
cause me so much apprehension?
The answer is: food allergies.
Both of my children have them
and, put simply, the
consequences can be fatal.
Many kids grow out of allergies
when theyre young, but for those
that dont, full-blown anaphylaxis
is a real and constant threat. As a
result of being wrongly given a
glass of milk to drink at nursery
school, my daughter Issy, now 13,
has a serious life-threatening
allergy and has to carry EpiPens
containing neat adrenalin with
her at all times.
Anaphylaxis, brought about by
exposure to even tiny particles of
certain foods, is a growing global
problem the number of
sufferers has risen seven-fold
over the past decade. In Britain
alone there has been a 615%
increase in hospital admissions.
So, for the travel industry,
catering for food allergy sufferers
is an increasing challenge.
When at home, its possible to
be vigilant, as food is mostly
prepared and cooked in the safety
of our own kitchen. In foreign
restaurants, however, where
176 natgeotraveller.co.uk
language and culture can appear
to be impenetrable barriers,
extreme caution is essential for
both restaurateur and guest. And
for the airline industry, the
problem is even more acute.
Anaphylaxis at 39,000ft and
halfway across a large ocean is
potentially deadly. No wonder
then that for many would-be
travellers, the risks are seen as
simply too great. However, with
careful planning and sensible
precautions, its possible to travel
to even the most far-flung corners
of the globe in relative safety.
My wife and I are determined to
expose our children to as many
cultures and experiences as
possible. After Issys initial
diagnosis, we became far too
cautious to travel anywhere
outside the UK, but that has
gradually changed. Having turned
down an invitation from two
zoologist friends to stay with
them at their private lodge in the
Serengeti and regretting it ever
since we decided wed no
longer allow this hidden disability
to prevent our children from
experiencing the world.
We dipped our toe into the
water with car and ferry trips to
France, Austria and Italy, and it
didnt take long before our
horizons broadened. The Austrian
Alps were soon superseded by
rural Transylvania, which was
followed last July by an overland
trip across Sri Lanka.
Planning is key, though,
especially as the travel industrys
attitude to food allergies varies
widely. In the UK, hotels and
restaurants are legally obliged to
clearly label allergens on all
menus. But not all countries
adopt this policy.
Airlines appear to adopt
widely differing policies, with
some, such as Singapore Airlines,
offering to provide specific
menus, while others refuse to
guarantee their ingredients.
We recently flew with an
airline which promised to
individually cook allergen-free
meals, but found that its good
intentions didnt translate into
meaningful actions. Despite a
letter from our GP and filling out
a comprehensive medical
questionnaire, Issys breakfast
consisted of just a small,
unappetising bowl of
overly chilled melon cubes.
And the crew were unable to
vouch for the ingredients of
the accompanying bread roll.
Arriving at an unfamiliar
airport in the wee small hours,
with a hungry child in tow and
having to find her something
suitable to eat, was one test we
hadnt bargained on. Eventually,
after walking through the
cavernous transit terminal,
we stumbled upon an empty
Italian restaurant.
The only thing they could
assure us was dairy-free was
a bowl of plain French fries.
But after a few bites, my daughter
announced that they tasted
strange. What appeared at
first to be rock salt granules
hidden underneath the top layer
of fries, turned out to be tiny
shavings of parmesan cheese.
As her body started to shut
down, I shouted for urgent
medical help and the EpiPen
was administered.
When things go wrong, they
can do so spectacularly. While
the airport paramedic was on site
within minutes, bureaucracy
proved far harder to deal
with. As we all rushed to the
ambulance, my son and myself
were taken aside and told that
without business class tickets,
we couldnt fast track through
immigration and would need to
join the long queue. The inability
of air staff to make a decision
regarding our connecting flight
without higher authority proved
utterly exhausting.
But, weve also been pleasantly
surprised, too. On our recent trip
to Sri Lanka, we were met by our
driver, Manjula, in Columbo, who
greeted us with the words, In Sri
Lanka, it will be no problem.
How right he was. The next
10 days were delightful, easy
and relaxing. Sri Lankans
understand the issue and have
adopted a flexible, commonsense
approach. They dished up some
of the best food weve eaten in
a long time.
Travelling with food allergies
IMAGE: GETTY
can be daunting, but taking extra
precautions and with the right
choice of country and airline
it certainly neednt be taboo.
Traditional Arabian dish

March 2017 177

FOOD ALLERGIES
TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS
Be bold
Food allergies dont have to be a
barrier to travel. Weve roamed
extensively as a family, with
relatively few problems, but its
important to be prepared. On first
discovering our children had
allergies, we restricted our trips to
the UK and continental Europe.
However, theres really no logic to
this as the nearest destination
isnt necessarily the safest.
Choose your
destination carefully
Recently, weve found Romanians
and Sri Lankans both friendly
and flexible. In Transylvania,
the cooking was simple but
wholesome. Sri Lanka has a very
mixed cultural and religious
heritage, with different dietary
requirements the norm. In short,
both countries get it. For dairy
sufferers, Asia is a good option as
milk-based products are rarely
used, compared to say, France or
the Netherlands. For those with
nut allergies, however, the reverse
is the case, so doing plenty of
research in advance is key.
Carry your medication
Make sure you prepare all your
medication early. Insist your GP
issues a double supply and carry
at least two extra EpiPens this
can be the difference between life
and death. Split your medical
supplies between your hand and
checked baggage, or between
family members just in case a
suitcase goes missing. Always
carry a doctors letter or medical
certificate with you.
Back-up food
Pack a small suitcase with safe
tinned food in case of emergencies.
Consider carrying a small supply
for the flight, too. Snacking
supplies are particularly
important when going off the
beaten track and remember
to take a portable can opener or
a good penknife.
At the airport
Although medicines are exempt
from the 100ml liquids in cabin
baggage rule, always carry a
doctors letter with you to avoid
178 natgeotraveller.co.uk
delay. EpiPens can also be Sri Lankan curry
challenging when going through
airport security, so allow extra
time in case of problems. Try and
swap liquid medication for
tablets, if at all possible.
Flying well
Airlines are generally far more
switched on to food allergies than
they were a decade ago and many
have detailed information on their
websites. Some will even offer to
cook a special meal, but most
simply let you choose from a
pre-prepared, allergen-free
menu. Where no specific safe
choice is available, check out the
vegetarian or vegan options.
Always check the ingredients in
advance airline websites
usually provide this information
and if they dont, just ask. Note
that some require a medical
certificate before allowing allergy
sufferers to fly with them.
Ensure hotel safety
If youre staying in a hotel, be sure youre visiting, so keep food areas where staff can be rushed.
to email in advance, letting them requests simple. If the menu On odd occasions, you will
know about your situation at the appears unsuitable, most chefs encounter unhelpful, perfunctory
time of booking, especially if will happily grill a piece of chicken or badly trained staff. This is
youre using a third-party booking or fish in a clean pan. Check the normally apparent from the
agent. Also, email again 24 hours type of oil that the food is cooked outset, so dont be afraid to
before you arrive so theyre well in, ensuring that it hasnt been change your mind.
prepared. At check in, ask to used to cook other food too, as
speak to the manager or chef. cross-contamination is a big risk. Break the language barrier
Clear communication is key. Avoid sauces however good Communicating in a foreign
they may appear to reduce any language is always going to have its
Eating out risk of contamination. If youre difficulties. Take some well-
Research where the local hospital allergic to dairy, check that translated allergy cards clearly
is and if you have a sat nav, vegetables arent glazed in butter. showing what youre allergic to
pre-set the hospitals coordinates with you. When youre heading
in advance. Always take both Avoid the tick box mentality off the beaten track, find a good
EpiPens with you, just in case, and Some chefs will go the extra mile English-speaking local guide.
consider giving a spare one to and either show you the
anyone travelling with you and ingredients or explain how food is Going solo
show them how to use it. stored and prepared. This will If travelling alone, wear a medical
When eating out, take back-up help you make an informed alert bracelet explaining your
food with you and dont be judgement based on real facts. allergies. Make any new people you
embarrassed to tell the restaurant However, some places will trot may meet aware of them too, in
that you might need to mix and out the we cant guarantee case something goes wrong. Show
match. Most responsible line, which is a particular problem them how to use the EpiPen.
restaurant owners will in Britain. If they wont elaborate
understand and will go out of or expand on why they cant or
their way to accommodate wont provide such essential
your request, if you explain information, dont risk it. MORE INFO
the situation clearly.
Know when to cut losses dietarycard.com
Order wisely Dont be frightened to walk out. allergyaction.org
Remember that English is not On the whole, theres more of a anaphylaxis.org.uk
a first language in the country risk of this in large cities or tourist selectwisely.com
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Discover
MARTIN COUNTY

You may think you know Florida, but how much do you
know about Martin County? Discover a hidden gem that
celebrates small-town life and an Old Florida feel

Whether you arrive in flip-flops or cowboy
boots, Martin County caters to all. Nestled
in between its more popular neighbours,
Orlando and Fort Lauderdale, on Floridas
fabled peninsula, this is the place to get
to know the states great outdoors, fishing
villages and fascinating heritage.
Coastal charms
Get an insight into Floridas natural
history at Blowing Rocks, a magnificently
preserved sanctuary named for its rocky
Anastasia limestone shoreline, the largest
on the US Atlantic coast. The restored
preserve reflects what South Floridas
barrier islands looked like a century ago.
Elsewhere, get a taste of Key West style
on Jensen Beach, formerly known as the
pineapple capital of the world.
Animal kingdom
Conservation is king here. From Stuarts
large oyster preserve to the St Lucie Inlet
a unique ecosystem home to over 4,300
species of flora fauna theres plenty to
marvel at. An ethereal, 100,000-year-old
limestone shelf and crystalline waters
underscore the natural grandeur of this
Nature Conservancyprotected beach on
Jupiter Island.

Catch of the day

Cast a line in Port Salerno, a fishing village
where award-winning seafood tempts
even the pickiest of palates. And be sure
to stop in for a meal at Martin County
restaurants, which use locally-sourced
produce and freshly caught fish, alongside
ingredients from organic farms.

Like a local
Discover your inner cowboy in Indiantown
one of the last Native American trading
posts, with cattle ranches and rodeos or
head to the main town of Stuart for eclectic
boutiques and the bustling Green Market.
MARTIN COUNTY is about two hours by car from
four international airports: PALM BEACH, FORT
LAUDERDALE , MIAMI and ORLANDO.
T: 00 1 772 288 5451. discovermartin.com
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 3 isues or 3
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space. Let us know
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STAR LETTER
Living in harmony
Recently I found myself at Heathrow and
popped in to WHSmith to pick up the
December issue of National Geographic
Traveller (UK). Flicking through the weighty
issue highlighted the element of chance in
travel as, lurking inside, I found a supplement
on Malaysia exactly where I was headed.
Although we werent able to take in all
27 ways to see Malaysia, we did manage
about eight not bad for a two-week trip!
We began with the sparkling shopping
malls and giddy Petronas towers of Kuala
Lumpur, moving on to the tea estates and
mossy rainforests of the Cameron Highlands.
Next was Georgetown, Penang, where an
incredible diversity of street food, street art
and traditional warung shops awaited us.
Finally, we arrived at the Jewel of Kedah
the Langkawi archipelago and the
waters of the Andaman Sea, where we shared
our beachside paradise with dusky leaf
monkeys, macaques, lemurs and hornbills.
Looking down on rainforest and
mangroves from the Machinchang Hills,
we reflected on this
remarkable country.
A second honeymoon
Your article inspiringly titled Occitania
about the southwest of France was both
informative and beautifully photographed.
It reminded me of my honeymoon, travelling
around amazing cities like Montpellier
and Nmes. Montpellier, I remember, is
full of lively bars because of its big student
population and is actually quite near the sea.
One of the new, modern trams gets to the
beach in just half an hour. In fact, when you
pointed out the ease of getting there on the
new TGV in just six hours, it made me want
to go there again for a second honeymoon!
NIGEL COX
Emotional & educational
If youre heading to Gdansk at any time in
2017, I must recommend a visit to Stutthof
concentration camp about an hour away
on public transport. I feel its important to
visit such sites to educate oneself on the
suffering endured by the groups who were
persecuted and interned there. It was an
interesting and emotional experience.
Dont be tempted by the private tours that

in Here, Malay, Chinese and

Next issues star
letter wins a
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Indian peoples live side by
side in harmony, with their
individual cultures distinct.
can cost about 100; you can get there for
a couple of quid on a local bus that returns
three hours later (which is the perfect amount
of time for looking around). A bonus tip
A shining example, I think, would be to pack some drinks and snacks,
for our divisive political as there are no shops or cafes nearby.
climate. NICK ADDY LAUREN P
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Whats the best thing about your city?
SUHAS SHETTY The sheer number of parks in Bangalore. From huge ones to those just a few metres wide //
@TMVMEDIA The quality of the light and air in Troms, especially in winter // ELARA BROOKS The unsung
heroes of Istanbul who look out for others, even the homeless animals // ISHAN HASSAN The busy fish
market in Mal, where culture, fishing and tourism intersect SEE OUR CITIES COVER STORY, P.76

Instagram Hashtag your Instagram pics with #NGTUK for your chance to be our Photo of the Week
@NATGEOTRAVELLER
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@contrastsstudio @keithruffles @cooksister @craighart23

March 2017 185

GET IN TOUCH

our Pictures
We give you a theme, you send us your photos, with
the best published in the next issue. This month, its
NOW OPEN
The theme: Greece.
Upload your high-res
image plus a sentence
describing your photograph,
to ngtr.uk/yourpictures
by 10 March 2017.
THE PRIZE
The ideal companion
for the serious
photographer, the
versatile Manfrotto Pro
Light 3N1-26 camera
bag can be worn three
ways (backpack, sling
bag and cross-shoulder)
Peru a feature in our Jan/Feb 2017 issue and will carry a multitude
of photo and video gear
Our winner is Emma Muir for her photo of salt production in Maras. While the and personal belongings.
story behind the shot is fascinating, we loved the way the walls of the pool frame RRP: 149.95.
the worker to create an unconventional, centrally composed photograph. manfrotto.co.uk

W I N N E R

1 EMMA MUIR // ESSEX: A worker at Maras salt mines,

24 miles north of Cusco. Theres been mining here
since Inca times. Its fascinating to see so much salt so
high in the mountains.

2 JULIO RANEA // HOUNSLOW: This was taken in

Arequipa, at the Santa Catalina Monastery, for nuns
of the Dominican Second Order. I was inspired by the
colours of the building and how they contrasted with
the blue sky.

3 KRISTIAN LEVEN // LONDON: Two elderly ladies

in traditional Peruvian dress share a moment in the
Arequipa region, near the Colca Canyon.

For more about the next theme, including entry

details and T&Cs, visit NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK

186 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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