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 BON APP TIT VOLUME 62 NUMBER 5

june
T H E G R I L L I N G I SS U E

S TA RT E R S BA KITCHEN C O LU M N S

17 35 10
STARTERS HEALTHYISH R.S.V.P.
The soft-serve Veg-packed Reader requests
renaissanceRed cold noodle salads and an all-purpose
wine in hot weather are this seasons spice rub.
(really!)Fresh feel-good solution.
air, shining sun, tacos BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ 52
alfrescoGet some CITY GUIDES:
char on that pineapple 38 BAJA
Dispatches from KID APPROVED Come for the fried
the Oscar Mayer Adam Rapoport fish tacos, stay
Wienermobile and his son love the for the fresh clams
Fancy smores for chicken katsu at their and crisp wine
when youre not local Japanese and cool hotels.
campingand more. spot so much, theyve BY KURT SOLLER
hacked it for home.
105
40 PREP SCHOOL
DINNER The great grilled
TONIGHT stone fruit debate,
Squash pasta, baked a breakdown of
chicken with tomatoes tamarind concentrate,
and olives, and and more.
other weeknight dishes
senior food editor 114
Chris Morocco cranks LAST BITE
out for his family While his partner
after a long day at BA. makes fish kebabs,
David Sedaris
50 will be taking a bath.
TOOL KIT BY DAVID WALTERS
Turn your grill
into a stovetop. IN EVERY ISSUE
BY BRAD LEONE
8 editors letter
112 recipe index
112 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK

LIVE FIRE IS
LIT AT REYNARD.

P. 9 8

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial ofces: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
 BONAPPETIT.COM

june
T H E G R I L L I N G I SS U E

F E AT U R E S

64 86
FIRE UP SHOT IN A BEER
YOUR WEEK How about a new
Because grilling kind of cocktail?
shouldnt just be BY TRISTAN WILLEY
a weekend thing.
Weve got last-minute 88
sauces, tricks with FLAVOR
aluminum foil, and EXPLOSION
all the recipes you Harneet Baweja
need to hang outside and Nirmal Save,
on a Wednesday. chefs at Londons
Summer doesnt last Gunpowder, are
forever, people. grilling up smoky
BY CHRIS MOROCCO lamb chops with
PULLING PITS chutney, punchy
TO MAKE 74 shrimp skewers,
CHERRY SALSA. IN BLOOM and other Indian
At a grill-out in dishes thatll wow
P. 74
upstate New York, your guests.
cookbook author BY KURT SOLLER
Samin Nosrat builds
a makeshift cinder- 98
block rig for bone-in FOREST TO
rib eye and charred TABLE
red peppers cooked Where do the logs
over an open flame, fueling all those
while guests pick wood-fired ovens
fresh flowers and come from? Julia
herbs for a glorious Kramer gets
sundown celebration. hot on the trail.
BY CHRISTINE MUHLKE
ON THE COVER
Nagaland House Ribs

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK

with Tamarind Glaze
(for recipe, see page
97). Photograph by
Peden + Munk. Food
styling by Rebecca
Jurkevich. Prop styling
by Amy Wilson.

4 J U N E 2 0 17
 W H AT S
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6 J U N E 2 0 17
editors letter
Follow Adam
on Twitter and
Instagram at
@rapo4
GOOD TO THE BONE
A few Saturdays ago I dropped off my nine-year-old for a
playdate on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. With a couple
hours to kill, I wandered down to White Gold Butchers, one of
those artisanal, eat-local, nose-to-tail shops where, Im happy
to report, there was nothing at all healthyish going on.
Big slabs of nicely marbled porterhouses rested in a glass
display case, two-pound hunks of beef short rib sat on a butcher
block waiting to be broken down, and impossibly golden-
brown rotisserie chickens preened on a marble countertop, still
impaled on a long Game of Thronesquality skewer.
What makes White Gold, and other shops like it, so good is the
meat. You know exactly where it comes from and who raised it.
Not that I always cared. For years Id been a steadfast resister
to the locally sourced, grass-fed beef movement. If I was going
to pay $28 a pound, I wanted my rib eye more marbled than
a block of Carrara. Carbon footprint be damned; give me big-
ranch, grain-fed beef. Give me lush, rich steaks that I can bring
to a crisp, crunchy finish on my fiery-hot Weber grill.
But at some point, that movement became a lot harder to
resist. Id stop by Dicksons Farmstand Meats in Chelsea Market
for a couple of rosy bone-in pork chops jacketed in milky-white
fat, and Id find myself staring longingly at the beautifully
gnarled, 32-day-dry-aged strip loin from upstate New York.
And when the woman at the register would ask, Is that all? Id
eyeball the freezer case, hem and haw, and then ask for a
8 J U N E 2 0 17
The meat case at White Gold Butchers in
NYC is what your grill dreams about.
why-the-heck-not quart of chicken stock made with trimmings
from all those beautiful cage-free birds. And, yes, why not
throw in some Berkshire pork rillettes, too?
Eat better, do the right thing.
More and more, thats becoming easier to do. Thanks to new-
school butcher shops like Maine Street Meats in Rockport,
Maine, Roses Meat Market in Durham, North Carolina, and Salt
& Time in Austin, quality has pulled even with cause.
Its no longer about making a statement; its about eating
really, really well. Im pretty sure I am going to fire up my grill
every single weekend this summer. Ill pull up to 8 Hands Farm
on the North Fork of Long Island, where I can choose from a
gorgeous selection of farm-raised lamb and pork.
And a few hours later, Ill be standing at my grill, looking out
over the Long Island Sound. Im sure Ill have gotten my char-
coal chimney going a tad too late I mean, whats the point of
cocktail hour if youre busy prepping and grilling the entire
time? And so, when those heritage-breed pork chops hit the
grill, itll be all but pitch-black out. Ill reach for my iPhone
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU
and flick on that nuclear-powered flashlight so I can glean some
sense of whats going on. Sure, I might not be able to see what
Im cooking, but at least Ill know that its quality is top-notch.
A DA M R A P O P O R T
Editor in Chief
r.s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
Email us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

STAFF
PICK

WHILE THE EDIBLE GARDEN

AT OLMSTED IN BROOKLYN IS
A BIT BEYOND MY ABILITIES,
THE GRILLED SCALLOPS WITH
CREAMED CORN IS DEFINITELY
SOMETHING I WOULD LOVE
TO TRY AT HOME.
J U L I A K R A M E R , se nio r p r oje c t s e di t o r

GRILLED SCALLOPS
WITH CREAMED CORN
If youre going to go the
4 S E RV I N G S
distance gathering all the spices for this
multipurpose dry rub (and you should),
go ahead and triple the batch. See the
sidebar, page 12, for more ways to use it.

3 dried pasilla chiles (about 1 oz.

total), coarsely chopped Kosher salt to medium and add grated corn; cook,
2 Tbsp. dried thyme Vegetable oil (for drizzling) stirring often, until liquid evaporates,
1 Tbsp. dried oregano Lime wedges (for serving) about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 Tbsp. water and
1 Tbsp. ground coriander cook, stirring, until absorbed. Continue
1 Tbsp. ground fennel S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill; to cook, stirring and adding water
2 tsp. chipotle chile powder four 8" metal skewers 2 Tbsp. at a time and letting it absorb
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper completely before adding more, until
2 tsp. paprika Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. corn is creamy with a risotto-like
1 tsp. garlic powder Coarsely grind pasilla chiles in spice mill. consistency, 1218 minutes. Stir in butter;
1 tsp. onion powder Mix ground chiles with thyme, oregano, season creamed corn with salt.
Zest of 1 lime coriander, fennel, chipotle chile powder, Thread scallops onto skewers, dividing
1 lb. large sea scallops, side muscle black pepper, paprika, garlic powder, evenly, season with salt, and drizzle with
removed, rinsed, patted dry and onion powder in a small bowl to a little vegetable oil. Grill until deeply
2 Tbsp. olive oil combine. Scatter lime zest over scallops, browned and just cooked through, about
4 green garlic or 2 medium then cover them all over with 2 Tbsp. 3 minutes per side, depending on size.
leeks, white and pale green dry rub (reserve extra rub for another Transfer skewers to a platter and
parts only, thinly sliced use). Chill scallops while you make squeeze some lime juice over scallops.
1 medium shallot, finely chopped the creamed corn. To serve, divide creamed corn among
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan plates and top with skewers. Serve with
4 ears of corn, husked, kernels over medium-low. Cook green garlic, more lime wedges for squeezing over.
grated on the large shallot, and garlic, stirring occasionally, D O A H E A D : Dry rub can be made
holes of a box grater until very tender but without taking on 1 month ahead. Store airtight at room
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter any color, 68 minutes. Increase heat temperature.

1 0 J U N E 2 0 17 * S U B M I SS I O N S B E C O M E T H E P R O P E R T Y O F B O N A P P T I T.
r.s.v.p.
THE CHEF SAYS
Pepper skins have a crunchy
texture that interferes with
the softness of the dip. Slowly
roast the peppers until theyre
wrinkled but not yet browned
to slip off the peels easily.
MICHAEL COSTA ,
head chef, Zaytinya

DEAR BON APPTIT, ZAYTINYA IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE Roast peppers, turning every 15 minutes
RESTAURANTS IN WASHINGTON, D.C., AND I ALWAYS ORDER or so, until collapsed and very tender,
THE ROASTED RED PEPPER HTIPITI DIP. IF I KNEW THE RECIPE, 6075 minutes. Let cool.
ITD BE MY GOTO DISH TO COMPLETE EVERY BARBECUE. Meanwhile, whisk shallot, garlic,
vinegar, a pinch of black pepper, and
L AU R E N F O L K M A N N , C hic a go
remaining cup oil in a small bowl
to combine. Season with salt.
Remove stems, skins, and seeds from
HTIPITI SPREAD 3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar bell peppers; discard. Finely chop flesh
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS This Greek feta Freshly ground black pepper and transfer to a medium bowl. Whisk
spread (pronounced ch-tee-pee-tee) Kosher salt dressing to reincorporate and pour over
means beaten, traditionally with a mortar 8 oz. Greek feta, coarsely peppers; toss to coat. Gently toss in feta
and pestle. It can be flavored with sweet chopped (about 2 cups) and 4 tsp. thyme. Cover and chill dip at
or hot peppers, or both. This version 4 tsp. thyme leaves, least 15 minutes to allow flavors to meld.
features finely chopped roasted peppers. plus more for serving Taste and season with more salt and
Pita chips (for serving) pepper if needed.
4 red bell peppers Top htipiti with more thyme and serve
1 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil Preheat oven to 300. Place bell with pita chips.
medium shallot, finely chopped peppers on a rimmed baking sheet and D O A H E A D : Dip can be made 1 day
1 garlic clove, finely chopped drizzle with 1 Tbsp. oil; turn to coat. ahead. Keep chilled.

Think Outside the Rub

While you could use the
leftover seasoning from Olmsteds
dry-rubbed scallops (page 10)
to coat chicken thighs, veggies,
or anything really, chef Greg
Baxtrom treats it like ground
pepper with a bit more going on.
Heres how he cooks with it.
FISH
Transform it into a
marinade by whisking
the spice into citrus
juice and olive oil.
REFRIED BEANS S A L A D D R E SS I N G PAS TA T O P P I N G
The chiles in the rub Whisk a pinch of the Mix it into coarse
and lime zest liven smoky blend into breadcrumbs and
up a pot of beans buttermilk dressing for grated Parmesan to top
a staff meal favorite. a ranch-inspired effect. mac and cheese.

12 J U N E 2 0 17
r.s.v.p.
DEAR BON APPTIT, I HAD THE BEST MEAL AT THYME
CAFE AND MARKET IN SANTA MONICA. THE
NECTARINE AND PEACH SALAD WITH LAVENDER HONEY
WOULD MAKE MY SUMMER SO MUCH SWEETER. Burnin Up
Live fire is
J E N N I F E R C A S E , L os A ng e les
having a moment in
restaurants (see p. 98
for more proof), but
that doesnt mean
NECTARINES AND PEACHES Meanwhile, bring honey, 2 Tbsp. you cant try it at
WITH LAVENDER SYRUP sugar, and 3 Tbsp. water to a simmer in home. Chefs share
The combination of ripe
4 S E RV I N G S a small saucepan over medium-high their tips for one
curious BA reader.
stone fruit, candied pecans, Gorgonzola, heat, swirling occasionally until sugar is
and a sweet herb syrup hugs the line dissolved. Add rosemary and lavender
between savory and sweet, meaning and remove from heat. Let sit 5 minutes. Q:

you can serve this dish as a summer Remove rosemary and let syrup cool. The way the chef
at The Dabney in
salad or a light dessert. Bring a pinch of salt, remaining cup Washington, D.C.,
sugar, and 1 Tbsp. water to a boil in uses a woodburning
cup pecans another small saucepan, stirring to hearth to cook his
3 Tbsp. honey dissolve sugar. Cook (without stirring) dishes is so inspiring.
2 Tbsp. plus cup sugar until sugar turns a light amber color, Short of building
one of my own, any
1 sprig rosemary about 2 minutes. Add pecans and cook, ideas on how I can
1 Tbsp. dried lavender buds stirring constantly, until nuts are coated create these flavors
Kosher salt and caramel is a dark amber color, with my grill?
3 ripe white or yellow nectarines, about 2 minutes. Immediately scrape MARK TELLES,
Houston
cut into wedges out onto a parchment-lined baking
3 ripe white or yellow peaches, sheet and spread out into a single layer;
cut into wedges let cool. Break into smaller pieces. A:

CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PEPPER, FISH, BEANS, SALAD, NOODLE, ROSEMARY, LOGS). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest Toss nectarines, peaches, lemon zest, Try charring
whole marinated
cup crumbled Gorgonzola, divided and cup syrup in a large bowl to coat. vegetables. It
Let sit 5 minutes. Gently toss in half of balances out the
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Dried lavender can be Gorgonzola and half of candied pecans; acidity but still
found at farmers markets, many natural taste and season with salt if needed. keeps the veg crisp.
MICHAEL GALLINA,
foods stores, and some supermarkets. Transfer to a platter. Top with remaining executive chef
Gorgonzola and candied pecans. and co-owner,
Preheat oven to 350. Toast pecans D O A H E A D : Syrup can be made Vicia, St. Louis
on a rimmed baking sheet, stirring once, 1 month ahead; cover and chill.
Slowly cook
until slightly darkened in color and Pecans can be candied 1 day ahead; mushrooms on the
fragrant, 1012 minutes. Let cool. store airtight at room temperature. grill to give soups

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (SCALLOPS, HTIPITI, NECTARINE AND PEACH SALAD);

THE CHEF SAYS
I flavor this versatile
syrup with rosemary and
lavender, but if it tastes too
intense, try other fresh herbs
like thyme, basil, or mint.
MAIRE BYRNE ,
chef-owner, Thyme Cafe
and Market
and rice dishes
a little earthiness.
A handful imparts
so much depth
and a straight-from-
the-fire essence
to the entire bowl.
CHRIS COLEMAN,
chef, Stoke,
Charlotte, NC
Spoon ricotta into a
cast-iron pan, cover
it with a lid, and
bake it on the grill
over medium heat.
The gooey cheese
takes on a smoky
flavor, and its good
over toasted bread.
DAN KLUGER,
chef, Loring Place,
NYC

14 J U N E 2 0 17
starters
GRILL LIKE A PITMASTER
HOW TO PARK THE WIENERMOBILE
SO MUCH SOFT SERVE RETHINKING A CAMPFIRE CLASSIC
WHAT TO DRINK RIGHT NOW

1
il l
e e ts + D
P o rk + B

Theres
Veg in My
Sausage
This summer were grilling some
more creativeand oh yes, colorful
sausages. Brooklyns Foster Sundry
bolsters meaty sausages with
Pantone-friendly ingredients like kale
and beets. Outside of work, I mostly
eat vegetables, so I try to make
the sausages produce-heavy, says
Cara Nicoletti, the shops butcher.
Pork It wont be long before a place near
+
Orange you does the same. ASHLEY MASON
peel
+
Chive

Lamb
+
Smoked
eggplant
+
Mint Chicken
+
Kale
+
Garlic

Pork
+
Lemongrass
+
Turmeric

P H OTO G R A P H BY J O S H D I C K I N S O N CONTINUES ON PAGE 20 >

STARTERS

COOK LIKE A PRO

2
Pineapple
Express
Of course chefs are
grilling the last thing
youd think to grill

Well, why not? Thats
what chef Carrie Blease says
when I ask her how whole
grilled pineapple ended up on
the menu at Lord Stanley, the
veggie-centric San Francisco
restaurant she runs with her
husband and co-chef Rupert
Blease. Once they got their
hands on a Big Green Egg
the ceramic smoker-grill
combo with a cult following
among chefs and weekend
warriors alikethe pair went
crazy experimenting. We
would light it in the morning,
when the fruit and veg order
came in, and we couldnt not
try putting things on there,
Rupert recalls. Not everything
(e.g., oranges) was a hit, but
the pineapple stuck. It turned
out to be really versatile. Its
so warm tastingyou can use
it for savory or sweet, hot
or cold, he says. After more
than two hours on the grill
over indirect heat, the sugars
in the pineapple concentrate,
yielding sweet, meaty fruit
kissed with smokean ideal,
if unexpected, foil to the
intense richness of the confit
foie gras on their tasting menu.
You know what they say:
Smoke em if you got em.
AMIEL STANEK
3
Stay
Here,
Grill This
We cant say a grill
was on our hotel-amenity
wish listuntil we found
Camp Comfort, a B&B
just outside San Antonio
with a summer camp vibe.
The place offers two on-
site fire pits and a special-
order barbecue kit that
includes charcoals, filet
mignons from local Alamo
Meat Market, foil-wrapped
potatoes, and the fixings
for a Caesar salad.
NIKITA RICHARDSON
se
s t o U ple
ay ap
5 W d Pine
lle
Gri
Slice and serve with
grilled pork or fish

Cut into chunks

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (PINEAPPLE); WYNN MYERS (CAMP COMFORT)

and toss with salt and

lime juice for a
smoky fruit salad

Muddle and use as

the base for a sweet-
savory cocktail

Dice and mix with

chopped cilantro and
chiles for salsa

Pure and spoon

over vanilla
ice cream or good
Greek yogurt
S
T
A
R
k
T
e t Tal
E Swe
R
S Once upon a disco,
Italian sparkling reds
were as cloying as an

4
Abba single. And while
there are still plenty
of sweet offerings out
there, more and more
dry options are being
imported. Occasionally
you can be tipped off
by words on the bottle:
Secco (dry) or Semi-
Secco (extra-dry). But
if not, a decent rule
of thumb is to look at
Alcohol by Volume
(ABV). Find wines that
UNFILTERED
hang around 1113
percent ABV to stay

Pop on the dry side (lower

means less sugar
has been converted
(the to alcohol), and
dont shy away from

Other) double-checking with

your wine merchants
(psstthey dowant to

Bubbly help you, I promise!).

M.A .R.

Nothing goes better

with a backyard
cookout than a big
glass ofred?
Marissa A. Ross
explains

Red wines are not all

winter sweatersyou
dont have to pack them up
just because its summer.
Sparkling reds are worth TRY
flirting with this time of year, Della Staffa
and not just Lambrusco, Brioso Rosato
which is already known Umbria,
$32
to hold court around the
grill. Well-chilled sparklers
of Sangiovese, Barbera,
and Colorino (my favorite
sparkling reds come from
Italy) go down easy with
bright, poppy notes of cherry AND
Cellario
and cranberry but are dry Barbera
enough to complement any Piemonte,
meat youre throwing on $18
the grill. Less sweet than the
sparkling reds of the 70s
that gave the genre a bad
PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSH DICKINSON

name (see sidebar, right), OR

these wines are the Furlani Sur
beverage equivalent of Lie Rosso
running barefoot across the Trentino,
beach on a blazing hot day, $30
the sand pricking at your
heels, before hopping into
the ocean with both feet.

2 2 J U N E 2 0 17
 T
T

S
S

R
R
A
PINK GUAVA FLOAT CORNALMOND WITH CHOCOLATE SHELL STRAWBERRY KOOLAID
RACHELS GINGER BEER SEAT TLE MAGPIES SOFTSERVE L.A. BASILISK PORTLAND, OR

5
VANILLA WITH SPRINKLES, NUTS AND CHIPS MATCHA AND VANILLA SWIRL SOUTHERN CHARM SUNDAE
TURKEY AND THE WOLF NEW ORLEANS VAN LEEUWEN ARTISAN ICE CREAM NYC COW TIPPING CREAMERY AUSTIN
You Got Served

GRAY CHOCOLATE WITH SESAME SEEDS BEET AND ALMONDCHARCOAL SWIRL BUFFALO MILK WITH RASPBERRIES AND TEA CAKE
WIZ BANG BAR PORTLAND, OR LIT TLE DAMAGE L.A. TARTINE COOKIES AND CREAM SAN FRANCISCO
and sesame sprinkles are suddenly in the mix. And thats something to scream about. EMMA WARTZMAN
chocolate and vanilla behind that little window. But those are plain Jane offerings now that matcha cones
Soft-serve spots have been swirling up cones for decades, with college kids on summer break pulling

PHOTOGRAPHS: JULES DAVIES (BASILISK, WIZ BANG); WES FRAZER (COW TIPPING CREAMERY); AUBRIE PICK (TARTINE COOKIES AND CREAM); JULIA DUQUETTE (LITTLE DAMAGE, MAGPIES);
RUSH JAGOE (TURKEY AND THE WOLF); HILARY MCMULLEN (RACHELS GINGER BEER); ALEX LAU (VAN LEEUWEN ARTISAN ICE CREAM)
S
T
A
R to
T l a ces
P o
E
N ew lfresc
R e s A
S Thre t Taco
E a
Salazar
Los A n g e l e s
A year-round patio for
eating classics like
carne asada in house-
made flour tortillas.
Fresas
A us tin
The formerly take-out-
only restaurant opened
a sunny new South
First location last
summer, with a spacious
New Yorks backyard lined with
Rockaway giant live oaks. Youll
Beach Surf be glad not to take
Club offers
tacos and your wood-grilled
sunny vibes. achiote chicken to go.
Juan Luis
C har l e s ton , SC
Barbecue maven and
El Paso native John
Lewis (see page 28)
recently turned his
flagship BBQ joints
Tex-Mex Tuesday into
a restaurant where he
slings puffy tacos every
day of the week. N .R.

6
Fact: It seems like several new restaurants have seized
an eternal truth: Tacos are meant to be eaten under blue
skies with the sun shining on your face. From the palm

Tacos treelined patio at Salazar in L.A. to the sunny setup

at Valentinas Tex-Mex BBQ taco truck in Austin, this
year saw a surge in scenic spots for devouring your
Taste tacos al pastor. Just like that feeling you get when juicy
PHOTOGRAPH BY WINNIE AU

carnitas spills onto your hands, eating tacos outdoors

Better connects us to a primal desire to be in nature. Or at

least a shaded patio with cold beers. MANDO RAYO

Outside Mando Rayo is the author of Tacos of Texas.

He ate approximately 104 tacos outside last year.

2 6 J U N E 2 0 17
S
T
A
R LOVE LET TER
T
E

7
R
S Master
Grill
BBQ pro John
Lewis on the grill
he lovesand
that you will too

I first came across the

PK Grill maybe five years
ago. I started seeing it at
hardware stores, and I just
bought one. Now its the
one I tell everyone to get:
My general manager
has one at his house, and
so does my chef de cuisine.
Its compact and can be
moved around easily. And
itll last forever because its
cast aluminumit doesnt
rust. Its a grill you can
give to your grandkids
when you die because it
wont ever die. AS TOLD
Its got a nifty TO NIKITA RICHARDSON
thing where the
grate is on a
hinge, so you John Lewis is the pitmaster-
can keep adding owner of Lewis Barbecue
more charcoal if
in Charleston, SC.
youre making
something thats
going to take a
while, like a pork
shoulder.

There are vents

on top and on the
bottom. Ill open
one top vent and
It has a [longer] put the coals on
flat bottom,
PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK

the other side for

so unlike round- an indirect smoker.
bottom grills, Ive cooked beef
where charcoals ribs and tenderloin
tend to pile on one and oysters that
another, your way and they ve
evenly distributed The PK Grill turned out great.
charcoal can burn and Smoker,
really efficiently $370;
pkgrills.com
and hot.

2 8 J U N E 2 0 17
STARTERS
8
9
Smores
the
Merrier
Why go camping
when you can order
perfectly good
smores at restaurants?
At Emmer & Rye
in Austin, mixed bran
crackers sandwich
orange marshmallows
and chocolate
ganache. At Detroits
Green Dot Stables,
they come as sliders,
with marshmallow
fluff and Nutella.
In Brooklyn, former Boy
Scout Greg Baxtrom put
his merit badge to use
in the backyard at
Olmsted, where diners
toast house-made tabs on the
Wienermobiles
vanilla marshmallows whereabouts
over a coffee can of this summer
on Twitter at
charcoal. (Dont worry, @wienermobile
they still come with
Hersheys.) ALEX BEGGS
3 0 J U N E 2 0 17
Ask a
Hotdogger
Each year Oscar Mayer
hires a dozen recent college
graduates to drivearound the
U.S. insix 27-foot-long, hot-
dog-looking vehicles. They
can average 500 miles a week
as they make stops at parades,
charity events, and county fairs,
preaching the hot dog gospel
along the way. Heres Maddie
Murphy from St. Louis, a
recent University of Missouri
grad, who spoke to me from
a parked Wienermobile
in Boston. MAGGIE LANGE
Whats the most difficult
thing about driving the
mobile? Theres no rearview
window or mirror. It takes
up about four normal parking
spaces. We have to learn how
Keep
Smores in progress
at Olmsted in Brooklyn.
to parallel park it in Hot Dog
High training. You have to be
patient. But we normally get
prime parking spots because
people are excited to see us.
How excited? There
was one couple who were
Wienermobilefanatics. This
woman started a Facebook
campaign to bring it to her
wedding, and a team drove
her and her groom around in
their wedding dress and tux.
This year I drove to her on
their three-year anniversary.
What music do you
listen to on trips? My
teammate, Sisco, and I like
the same type of music, really
upbeat. Our favorite was the
Pandora Family Road Trip
station. Once in a while we put
on the Oscar Mayer jingle
we have it in every genre.
The rap version is awesome.
Best method for hot dog
prep? I love a hot dog thats
grilled. Something we learned
about in our journey is that
theres a big debate: Team
Mustard versus Team Ketchup.
I personally just love mustard.
We all have nicknames
my formal Hot Dogger name
is Mustard Maddie.
Where are hot dog
innovations happening?
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID WILLIAMS (OLMSTED); COURTESY OSCAR MAYER
A lot of little kids eat hot dogs
in the most interesting way.
With mac and cheese. This
one kid loved ranch on his
hot doghis mom said thats
the only way he would eat it.
S
T
A
R
T
E
R
S

10
Aloe Vera
Isnt
Just for
Sunburns
On a frigid weekend
escape to Chicago,
I found my new summer
drink when a bartender at
Scofflaw told me he was
adding a bit of something
called Chareau to my
gin cocktail. Technically
Chareau is a light, clear
liqueur that can be sipped
straight. But, I learned,
it really excels as a bonus
ingredient in cocktails. Pour
an ounce or two into your
vodka soda or margarita,
The aloe and watch it transform it into
plant: source something magically more
of summers refreshing. Its like your
sunburn coolant
and your new cocktail took a spa trip, with
cocktail hints of watermelon and
ingredient. cucumber. That clean flavor
is backed up by the
California liqueurs main
ingredient: aloe vera,
something I knew I needed
in my summer arsenal

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSH DICKINSON. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

(Im pale!), just not in my
liquor cabinet. KURT SOLLER
($30 for 375 ml;
astorwines.com)

11 State of The whole steamed artichoke is the pearl necklace of vegetables: simple yet elegant, in a Martha Stewarts
the Entertaining kind of way. And restaurants are reviving the sleeper classic, offering artichoke in all its spiny glory
with a rich saucelike shrimp mayo at Mr. Donahues in NYC or mustardy vinaigrette at Junes All Day in Austin
Artichoke for dipping alongside. Were getting choked up just thinking about it. (Sorry.) BELLE CUSHING

3 2 J U N E 2 0 17
 kitchen RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS

Healthyish

SPIC
R IMP Y STE
AK
E SH Leave the ribs and burgers to
TLIM
COCONU
the grillmaster. A colorful, infinitely SOBA
ERS
riffable cold noodle salad is G LOV
VE
GA R L I C K Y what everyones going to be
CHIC
KEN
talking about at your next cookout
b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

J U N E 2 0 17 3 5
 k
HEALTHYISH C O C O N U T L I M E S H R I M P Rice stick noodles + Shrimp + Watercress + Cucumber + Chives + Cilantro
+ Peanuts + Chile + Coconut-Lime Dressing* S P I C Y S T E A K Ramen noodles + Steak + Napa cabbage
T RY T H E S E + Kohlrabi + Scallions + Cilantro + Cashews + Sichuan peppercorns + Sesame-Ginger Dressing
COMBOS V E G LOV E R S S O B A Soba noodles + Tofu + Radishes + Sugar snap peas + Pea shoots + Scallions +
Nori + Horseradish + Miso-Mustard Dressing* GA R L I C K Y C H I C K E N Udon noodles + Chicken + Celery
+ Mung bean sprouts + Daikon + Scallions + Sesame seeds + Chili oil + Garlicky Peanut Dressing*

BUILD A COLD
N O O D L E SA L A D
Choose one (or more!)
from each category
and combine together
in a large bowl

1Noodles 2 P ro t e i n 3 R a w Ve g 4 To p p e r s 5Spicy Garnish

Cook in a large lb. cooked 4 cups total 2 tsp. black 1 Fresno or Thai
saucepan of boiling deveined medium of any combination and/or white chile, very thinly sliced
salted water according shrimp, peeled, halved of the following: sesame seeds
to package instructions through centerline Chili oil
until al dente. Drain, cup crushed
8 oz. store-bought Mung bean sprouts salted, roasted peanuts Finely grated
rinse in cold water, then fresh horseradish
thoroughly drain again. braised tofu, sliced
Watercress leaves cup crushed
Let sit in colander, 2 cups shredded with tender stems salted, roasted cashews Shichimi togarashi
tossing occasionally rotisserie chicken
to prevent sticking, Snow or sugar 2 toasted nori Crushed Sichuan
until ready to serve. 12 oz. sliced cooked snap peas, thinly sheets, crumbled peppercorns
boneless steak (such as sliced on a diagonal Sriracha
New York strip steak)
8 oz. dried Very thinly sliced
soba noodles Napa cabbage 6Dressing

8 oz. dried Thinly sliced scallions Sesame-Ginger

udon noodles
Daikon or kohlrabi, Dressing
8 oz. dried ramen peeled, cut into Whisk 3 Tbsp. fresh
noodles (flavor packet matchsticks lemon juice, 2 Tbsp.
discarded) soy sauce, 2 Tbsp.
Watermelon radishes
8 oz. dried rice or red radishes, tahini, 1 tsp. sugar,
stick noodles trimmed, peeled, 1 tsp. finely grated
thinly sliced peeled ginger, and
1 finely grated garlic
Celery, leaves clove in a small bowl
picked, stalks thinly until smooth. Whisking
sliced on a diagonal constantly, gradually
Thinly sliced add cup vegetable
Persian cucumbers oil followed by 1 tsp.
toasted sesame oil.
Pea shoots (tendrils) Do ahead: Dressing
Tender herbs can be made 1 day
(such as cilantro, chives, ahead. Cover and chill.
Makes about 1 cup
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY MONICA PIERINI.

basil, and/or mint)

See Prep
School,
page 110,
for more
dressing
recipes.

3 6 J U N E 2 0 17
k KID
APPROVED
Katsu Son
What do Bon Apptit editors
feed their kids? Adam Rapoport
relies on a Japanese staple
that his nine-year-old loves
E V E RY S U N DAY N I G H T, my
wife and I take our son, Marlon,
to the sushi spot down the block
from our apartment. But he never
gets sushi. Instead, he always
asks the waitress for his usual:
Cranberry juice on the rocks
and chicken katsu, please.
I cant knock himI tend to order
the same thing: a tender,
juicy chicken cutlet enrobed in a
crisp golden jacket of panko
breadcrumbs. A mound of nicely
cooked sushi rice, bright green
pickles, and a bowl of addictive
Japanese-style barbecue sauce
round out the meal.
3 8 J U N E 2 0 17
I have no idea how to
replicate those pickles at home,
but Ive managed to nail
the katsu. Heres how I do it.
I start with 1 pounds
chicken cutlets, each pounded
to about inch thick. I season
them on both sides with salt.
I then set up my breading
assembly line: three plates side
by side. On the first, cup all-
purpose flour; 3 large eggs,
beaten to blend, on the next;
and 2 cups panko on the last.
Then, working one at a time,
I dredge a cutlet in flour, shaking
off excess. I dip it in egg, turning
to coat and allowing the excess to
drip back into the bowl, then coat
with panko, really packing it on.
Now for the fry. You want
enough vegetable oil so that its
to inch deep in your skillet.
Turn the heat to medium, and
wait until its fully heated through.
Drop in a pinch of panko; if the
oil sizzles, its ready.
Lay in some cutletsyou dont
want to crowd them. Fry until
golden brown, about 2 minutes
per side. Transfer to a rack set over
a baking sheet. Add a bit more
oil, then cook the rest of the
cutlets. Season with salt if needed.
Slice chicken crosswise
into 1-inch-wide slices and serve
over rice with sauce. Oh yeah,
the sauce! Its cup ketchup +
2 tablespoons Worcestershire
sauce + 2 teaspoons
strawberry jam, mixed all
FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI
together. Now serve. And yes,
you can have some too.
For more kid-friendly recipes,
go to bonappetit.com
/kidapproved
P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
k DINNER
TONIGHT

Race to the
Finish Line Surplus
squash in that
After a long day cooking, senior CSA? This savor y
pasta sauce
food editor Chris Morocco is the ultimate
makes dinner for his wife and two remedy.
sons. Every. Single. Night. Heres
how he beats the bedtime clock

tsp. crushed red

pepper flakes and
toss to incorporate.
Meanwhile, cook
Summer 12 oz. paccheri,
Squash and ziti, or other large
Basil Pasta tube pasta in a
Heat cup olive large pot of boiling
oil in a large skillet salted water, stirring
over medium. Cook occasionally, until
8 thinly sliced garlic very al dente.
cloves, stirring Transfer pasta to
occasionally, until skillet with a slotted
very lightly browned spoon; add cup
around edges, about pasta cooking liquid.
4 minutes. Add 2 lb. Cook pasta, adding
assorted summer cup grated
squashes and Parmesan in stages
zucchini, quartered along with more
lengthwise, sliced; pasta cooking liquid
season with salt. as needed until
Cook, tossing sauce coats pasta
occasionally, until and pasta is al
squashes begin to dente. Toss in 1 Tbsp.
break down and get fresh lemon juice
jammy (they may and most of cup
start to stick to the basil leaves.
skillet a bit, which Serve pasta
means you are topped with more
there!),1215 minutes. Parmesan and
Add 1 tsp. Aleppo- remaining basil.
style pepper or 4 servings

4 0 J U N E 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 k
1
DINNER Daikon: overlooked and underrated. Keep it
C O O K S N O T E S
TONIGHT tightly wrapped in the fridge and just slice off some as you need it.
2
Salmon (unlike most fish) tastes great cold the next day, so I often
cook extra. 3Store any extra rice uncovered in the fridge, which
keeps the grains separate and makes for super-crispy fried rice.

Happy Heat
A kicky chile-lime dressing
wakes a workaday salmon-
and-rice bowl right up

Salmon with Hot Sauce

Vinaigrette and Pickled Veg
4 S E RV I N G S

4 56-oz. skin-on, boneless

salmon fillets
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more
for salmon
8 oz. daikon1, red radishes,
carrots, and/or cucumbers,
very thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar
3 Tbsp. mild hot sauce
(such as Cholula)
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Cooked rice (for serving)
1 cup cilantro leaves with
tender stems
cup sliced chives

Preheat oven to 250. Place salmon 2,

skin side down, on a rimmed baking sheet;
season with salt and coat flesh lightly
with oil. Bake until just cooked through
(flesh will flake easily but still be slightly
firm in the very center), 2025 minutes.
Meanwhile, place daikon or whatever
vegetables youre using in a small bowl
and season with salt. Massage gently
with your hands to soften. Drain off any
liquid that forms. Add vinegar and toss
to coat. Cover and chill until ready to
use (this will help vegetables stay firm).
Whisk hot sauce, lime juice, and
2 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl. Season
vinaigrette with salt.
Divide rice3 among bowls. Break up
salmon into pieces and arrange on top.
Drizzle vinaigrette over. Add cilantro and
chives to vegetables; spoon over salmon.

4 2 J U N E 2 0 17
k
1
DINNER Looking for a more intense flavor? Try this
C O O K S N O T E S
TONIGHT with funky red miso. 2Get your smash on with other vegetables
like sugar snaps, radishes, or small summer squash. 3 This
dressing will keep for weeks in the fridge; try it as a marinade
for roasted fish or as a finisher for grilled vegetables.
Just Smashing!
The secret to getting crisp
summer veg to drink up as much
tangy, umami-rich miso sauce
as possible? Crushing them
to create nooks and crannies
Green Beans and Cucumbers
with Miso Dressing
4 S E RV I N G S
3 Persian cucumbers or
English hothouse cucumber
Kosher salt
1 lb. green beans, trimmed
1 1" piece ginger, peeled,
finely grated
1 serrano or Fresno chile,
finely grated
1 garlic clove, finely grated
cup unseasoned rice vinegar
cup white miso1
cup olive oil
tsp. toasted sesame oil
Toasted sesame seeds and sliced
scallions (for serving)
Lightly smash cucumbers 2 with a rolling
pin, then tear into bite-size pieces. Toss
with a pinch of salt in a medium bowl.
Let sit to allow salt to penetrate.
Meanwhile, place green beans in
a large resealable plastic bag, seal,
and smash with rolling pin until most of
the beans are split open and bruised.
Whisk ginger, chile, garlic, vinegar, miso,
olive oil, and sesame oil in a medium
bowl until smooth.3 Add dressing to
beans and toss around in bag to coat;
season with salt.
Drain cucumbers and add to bag with
beans. Shake gently to combine. Transfer
salad to a platter and top with sesame
seeds and scallions.
Beating veggies
with a rolling
pin is killer for
relieving stress
FWIW.
 k
DINNER 1
Mix it up! Smaller pieces will
C O O K S N O T E S
TONIGHT fall apart, while larger chunks keep their shape and
provide texture. 2A few dashes of soy help that skin
take on more color and add savoriness. 3All those
stewy leftovers make for an excellent pasta sauce.

A Bird in the Pan

This toss-it-all-in-a-baking-dish
chicken dinner is hands-off
summer cooking par excellence

Baked Chicken with

Tomatoes and Olives
4 S E RV I N G S

9 garlic cloves, divided

1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper or tsp.
crushed red pepper flakes
1 tsp. soy sauce
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more
for drizzling
1 34-lb. chicken, quartered
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 lb. tomatoes of all sizes, halved,1
quartered if large
3 sprigs thyme
cup Castelvetrano or
Picholine olives, pitted
1 baguette, halved lengthwise

Place a rack in top third of oven; preheat

to 450. Finely grate 1 garlic clove into
a small bowl and toss with Aleppo-style
pepper, soy sauce,2 and 1 Tbsp. oil.
Rub all over chicken, then season with
salt and black pepper.
Toss tomatoes, thyme, olives, 3 Tbsp.
oil, and remaining 8 garlic cloves in
a 3-qt. baking dish; season with salt
and black pepper. Arrange chicken on
top of tomato mixture and roast until
deeply browned and cooked through,
4050 minutes. Transfer chicken to a
cutting board and let rest 1015 minutes.
When chicken is about 5 minutes
from being done, drizzle baguette with
oil and season with salt. Place in oven
directly on rack next to chicken and toast
until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes.
Slice each piece in half.
Carve chicken as desired and serve
piled atop toast with tomato mixture3
and pan juices spooned over.

4 6 J U N E 2 0 17
 k
1
DINNER C O O K S N O T E SAny stone fruit will work, but larger ones should
TONIGHT be sliced. Canned pears or sour cherries are dynamite in this.
2
Pricking the rolled-out pastry with a fork to control its shape during
baking is called docking. 3Even if the outside of the crust looks
done, dropping the ovens temp ensures the middle will cook through.

Sunny Side Up
A luxurious almond cream
makes this one-hour summer Store -bought
stone fruit dessert taste like puff pastr y
an all-day labor of love saves the day
once again.

Apricot and Almond Galette

4 S E RV I N G S

cup almonds, preferably blanched
cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1 large egg
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
room temperature
tsp. almond extract (optional)
tsp. vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour,
plus more for surface
in a food processor until very finely
ground. Add egg and pulse to combine.
Add butter, almond extract (if using),
vanilla extract, salt, and 1 Tbsp. flour;
pulse until almond cream is smooth.
Roll out pastry on a lightly floured
surface just to smooth out any creases.
If youre using a package of pastry
that has 2 sheets, stack and roll out
to a ""-thick rectangle.
sides. Prick surface all over with a fork
(this keeps the pastry from rising too
much when baked and helps it cook
through).2 Spread almond cream over
pastry, staying inside borders. (Chill
dough in the freezer for a few minutes
if it becomes too soft to work with.)
Set apricots, cut sides up, on top of
almond cream. Sprinkle lightly with sugar.
Bake galette until pastry is golden
FOOD STYLING BY MONICA PIERINI

1 package frozen puff pastry,
preferably all-butter, thawed
12 apricots (about 1 lb.),
halved, pitted, or other stone
fruit, quartered if large1
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
to 425. Pulse almonds and cup sugar
If your package contains a single
16x10" sheet of puff pastry, halve
it crosswise and roll out one half on
a lightly floured surface until rectangle
is "" thick; save remaining half for
another use. Transfer to a parchment-
lined baking sheet. Fold over edges of
pastry to make a " border around all
brown and puffed, 1520 minutes.
Reduce oven temperature to 325 and
continue to bake until pastry is deep
golden brown and cooked through
and apricots are softened and browned
in spots, 1520 minutes longer.3
D O A H E A D : Almond cream can be
made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

4 8 J U N E 2 0 17
k TOOL KIT
HOT TIPS

Use Solid Cookware

Grab some sturdy cast-iron
skillets and black steel pans
Just Throw to wilt spinach or make
a quick teriyaki glaze for fish
It on the Grill with soy, ginger, and a little
brown sugar. I collect Staub
cocottes in various sizes.
This outdoor cooking surface
Get Precooking
is more versatile than you think.
I parboil potatoes, beets, and
Boil pasta, caramelize other hardy veggies about
onions, melt butter, and more 80 percent of the way on
my (indoor) stovetop before
by B R A D L E O N E throwing them on the grill
for a nice char. Then I move
them to a pot with oil
or butter to finish cooking.
Divide and Conquer
Saut
mushrooms Bank your charcoal on one
in a cast-iron side of the kettle to create
pan with two heat zones. Sear ahi tuna
butter and fresh steaks or corn over direct
oregano. heat, and use the cooler side
to boil water for orzo or
cook a thick bone-in rib chop.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.

Sauce
fingerlings
in olive oil
and thyme.

I L I V E I N A S E C O N D F LO O R A PA RT M E N T. So when Im grilling in the backyard, I want everything in one place. Instead of going
into the kitchen all the timeI hate running up and down the stairsI started using my Weber as a stovetop. A grill can do a lot
more than just, well, grill: It boils water (for steaming mussels or blanching green beans) or simmers a sauce (think blistered tomatoes
with basil or brown butter). And why stop there? Roast some mushrooms in a pan with butter for a steak. With the grill-as-stovetop,
you can play around, and its all right in front of you.

5 0 J U N E 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY P E D E N + M U N K
 city guides
BA JA

Fish Tacos Were Just the Beginning Clockwise from top

lef t: Encuentros
yellowtail tiradito;
The plan was to take a road trip through Baja, Mexico, to find the best Baja views; Doa
fried fish and tortillas. That was before giant clam tostadas, crisp sparkling Esthela s tor tillas;
local oysters at
wine, and private beaches demanded a detour b y KU RT S O L L E R Conchas de Piedra

5 2 J U N E 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S B Y B E N J A M I N H E AT H
 k
CITY GUIDES
baja
CALIFORNIA HIPPIES
have been chugging their RVs
down the Mexican coast to
Cabo since at least the 1970s.
But most people heading to
the Baja peninsula these days
are like me: that is, more
hipster than hippie, the kind
who see some nice photos
on Instagramthose rocky
Pacific cliffs, that stunning
hotel with the Mexican-tiled
dining roomand rope in
some friends for a vacation
adventure, declaring that Baja
is Tulum before it became
Tulum (I stand by this). Before
this trip, I knew that I loved
the regions famous Baja tacos:
tender white fish fried in a
tempura-like batter, beneath
a squiggle of cream and some
crunchy slaw in a warm corn
or flour tortilla. But there was
much more to learnand
eatalong the way. Now Im
passing that wisdom on so
you can get yourself down to
Baja before its, well, Tulum.
5 4 J U N E 2 0 17
Clockwise from top: A lookout point on Highway 1
south of Tijuana; grilled composed oysters and bread
at Conchas de Piedra; chef Javier Plascencia
1CHOOSE SIDES
The entire Baja California
Peninsulajust south of San Diego
and, at 760 miles, nearly as long
as the state it shares a name
withis really two different places:
Baja Norte (North) and Baja Sur
(South). The former comprises
Tijuana, the wine country known
as Valle de Guadalupe (yes,
Mexican wine, but more on that
later), and Ensenada, a marine
town thats the ancestral home
of Baja tacos, all of which are
a two-hour drive from each other.
At the southern tip, theres mega-
touristy Cabo San Lucas; its
de Guadalupe. 3. Ensenada. 4. Todos Santos. 5. Cabo San Lucas.
cooler sister city, San Jos del
Cabo; and the even better
Todos Santos, a sleepy beach
town a couple of hours away
thats becoming a chic spot to kick
back. If you want to hit these half
dozen towns (like I did), plan on
a week, and dont bother driving
between the South and the North;
theres not much in the middle.
Besides, you can fly cheaply and
easily on Volaris airlines between
Cabo and Tijuana. No matter
what, youll want to rent an SUV.
The roads, especially in the
rocky wine country, are no joke
in a sedan. Plus, a higher
seat is better for taking in those
amazing coastal views.
2CLAMMER TIME
Theres a reason that many of the
best restaurants in mainland
Mexico and Southern California
rely on seafood from Bajas
From north to south: 1. Tijuana (just across the U.S. border). 2. Valle
6. San Jos del Cabo. Highway 1 is nicely paved from one end
to the other, though you might as well fly between the two clusters.
Norticos smoky whiskey
and mezcal cocktail.
Below: fr ying up fish at Los
Originales Tacos de Pescado
Pacific Ocean and Sea of Cortez:
This region triumphs when it comes
to freshness and variety. Were
talking scallops still pulsing in their
shells, creamy uni, meaty angel
shark and marlin, and those
chocolate clamsso named for
their smooth brown shells, which
contain tender, briny magic
inside. At Blue Fish Seafood,
a strip mall spot in San Jos del
Cabo, the rooms not much to
look at, but youre rewarded with
octopus tostadas and scallop-
yellowtail-and-mango ceviche
delivering a trio of acid, heat, and
sweet that will ruin you for raw
fish back home. And at Conchas
de Piedra, expat chef Drew
Deckmans latest in the wine
country, you sit outside while
throwing back oysters and clams
that are as big as your hand.
Just try to resist another dozen
while you down Hugo DAcostas
Espuma de Piedra, a tart
sparkling white thats considered
Mexicos best wine (though you
wouldnt know it from the price).
 k
CITY GUIDES CHOOSE YOUR OWN SALSA ADVENTURE
baja You wont visit a taco spot in Baja without seeing verde and
roja salsa on the baroften served from the stone molcajetes
theyre mixed up in. Want mild? Go green. Spicy? Red it is.
But for the best experience, try out a generous spoonful of both.
See Sourcebook
(page 112) to
find addresses and
contact information
for all locations.
T H E S L AW
A handful of lightly pickled cabbage and/
3WHAT WE TALK or onionswith a touch of oreganois key
ABOUT WHEN to getting crunch and acid into every bite.
WE TALK ABOUT THE CREMA
FISH TACOS Best if its served from
a squirt bottle and when
You can find superior ones its sour cream (not
nearly anywhere in Bajaon mayo). A creamy dollop
the roadside in Todos Santos at balances flavors and
Tacos Georges, or downtown helps cool your palate.
at Tacos Rossy in San Jos
del Cabo, where two women
across the street press tortillas
all day longbut if you want
to go all in, the pilgrimage
to Ensenada is worth it. In this
sleepy fishing village, there
are ramshackle stands on most
street corners. Locals crowd
in among vats of bubbling oil
to stand and eat tacos, and
you should wander around
town and do the same. All
of the spots are clearly labeled
(thanks to signs sponsored by
Coca-Cola); if you happen
upon Tacos Corona or Tacos
Floresta, I suggest stopping.
But the best fish taco in town
is actually the originalwell,
its called Los Originales
Tacos de Pescadowhich
serves up long strips of fish
alongside a massive buffet of
fixings. Heres how to build
your taco like the regulars do:

THE FISH
T H E TO RT I L L A None-too-delicate
Not a whole lot of angel shark or dogfish
corn is grown in Baja, doesnt break down
which is fine: freshly while cooking in oil.
made, lightly charred, THE BANDERAS The soda water in
pliant flour tortillas A piquant sort of pico that shares its colors the batter keeps the
hold up better to this with the Mexican flag (hence the name), its fry crunchy, light,
array of fillings. got diced white onion, tomato, and jalapeo. and not at all bready.

5 6 J U N E 2 0 17
 k
CITY GUIDES
baja
4WINE, BEER,
COCKTAILS?
A glut of wineries, hotels, and
winery-hotels are transforming
Valle de Guadalupe into a
scrappier Sonoma. Aside from
the Casa de Piedra for top
sparkling, hit up Monte Xanic
for impressive architecture and
whites to match or Vena Cava for
smooth, warm-weather-friendly
red blends. Not into wine? The
beer of choice throughout Baja
is AguaMala lager; its brewery,
built out of shipping containers,
is in Ensenada. And dont
leave Mexico without trying
a few mezcal cocktailslet
the bartenders guide you at
La Lupita Taco & Mezcal in
San Jos del Cabo or at Tijuanas
Nortico, a leather-walled
speakeasy that draws the citys
increasingly cosmopolitan
crew for local craft spirits.
5 8 J U N E 2 0 17
5FOLLOW
THOSE CHEFS!
As various towns in Baja have
risen up, two Tijuana-born chefs
have opened spots up and down
the peninsula. First, theres Javier
Plascencia, who relies on local
ingredients, whether hes grilling
carnitas quesadillas over live fire
at Jazamango (Todos Santos)
and Finca Altozano (Valle de
Guadalupe) or stocking his raw
bar at Erizo (Tijuana). Then
theres Jair Tllez, who ushered
in Baja Med cuisine when he
opened Laja in the wine country
18 years ago, making a virtue of
the olive oil, tomatoes, and herbs
that thrive in this Mediterranean
climate. His clubbier spot, Verde
y Crema (Tijuana), follows the
same philosophyas do his
white-hot MeroToro and Amaya,
over in Mexico City.
6WAKING UP
ON THE FARM
Bars close early in Baja, which
means youll be up for breakfast.
So make the trek to La Cocina
de Doa Esthela near Valle de
Guadalupe. There, Doa herself
serves braised meats with eggs
and blistered flour tortillas from
the back of her own farmhouse.
Sure, its strange to be eating
lamb in its own consomm in the
Living That
Hotel Life
Throughout all of
Baja, its the smaller,
more boutique-y
places that offer a
better experience
than those all-
inclusive resorts. No
matter where you
are in your journey,
From lef t: Prepping produce theres a great spot
at Finca Altozano; a scallop
and uni tiradito at Erizo to hang all day:
Valle de
presence of the animals roaming Guadalupe
nearby, but the meal will comfort Youve probably seen
you: rich, soothing, and layered Encuentro online,
with garlic and pasilla chiles. with its eco-conscious
cabins perched high
Its worth a visit just to witness this
up in the hills of wine
woman cooking in her giant clay
country. Its basically
oven. (If youre in South Baja, try
luxury camping,
Flora Farms for a solid, though
lighter, field-to-table meal.) though the chic
mountaintop pool,
wild coyotes, and
7A ROADSIDE TACO insane views make
FOR THE ROAD up for the low frills.
Crispy-edged carne asada, spicy Todos Santos
chorizo, succulent porkits silly Austin hotel hero Liz
to come to Mexico and not try Lambert just opened
meaty things stuffed into tortillas. her first international
In Todos Santos, we devoured project, Hotel San
incredible beef tacos at the hotel Cristbal. Its like a
restaurants of the San Cristbal high-design, Mexican
version of Melrose
and Rancho Pescadero. But if you
make your way back to America Place, with posh
suites that surround
through Tijuana (or, pro tip:
Cross the border and fly from a scene-y pool,
a private beach, and
San Diego), you shouldnt miss
a swank bar and
Taqueria Franc. Its an open-air
restaurant that give
spot where locals line up for you little reason to
spicy al pastor, sliced off a huge leave the premises.
trompo into corn tortillas. Its (If you cant get in,
not a Baja fish taco, but it sure is Rancho Pescadero,
satisfying. And, hey, didnt I say right down the road,
fish tacos were just the beginning? has similar amenities,
private beach
access, and more
From lef t: The Ensenada of a mom vibe.)
scene; Encuentros
epic pool; Doa Esthela s San Jos del Cabo
lamb and consomm Most of the
hundreds of hotels
in Cabo dont
have swimmable
beachesbut
El Ganzo does!
The stretch of sand
is hidden in a secret
cove that staff will
gladly boat you
over to. This bright,
whitewashed hotel
rents bikes, serves
up spicy palomas
on its rooftop
pool deck, and hosts
indie musicians
for impromptu
free concerts.
 Y O U K N O W T H A T W E E K E N D F E E L I N G W H E N Y O U R E I N Y O U R B A C K YA R D I N
FLIPFLOPS, BEER IN HAND, MEAT ON THE GRILL, WONDERING, WHY CANT I DO
THIS EVERY NIGHT OF THE WEEK? WELL, YOU CAN . WITH THESE EASY RECIPES
A N D A F E W S M A R T S T R AT E G I E S , Y O U C A N M A S T E R T H E A R T O F W E E K N I G H T G R I L L I N G ,
A N D G E T D I N N E R O N T H E TA B L E B E F O R E T H E S U N G O E S D OW N

by Chris Morocco photographs by Peden + Munk

64
 RULE 1

T IN
IS IN In the time it takes for a
rib eye to cook, rest, and slice,
you can fire up thin-cut pork
chops, eat, and binge season
5 of The Americans. So, on
weeknights, look for thin cuts of
meat that are ready to cook
right out of the fridge and need
just a few minutes on the grill.
Some of our favorites:
Thin-cut pork blade
chops
Skinless, boneless
chicken thighs
Skirt steak
Pounded lamb chops
Sausage

S OY B A S T E D
PORK
CHOPS WITH
CORN AND
POBLANO
SA L A D
P. 72
 RULE 2
RULE 3

T IS IS Coo
THE TI E wIT
CAST
O GAS
A (Ver y
Brief)
Gas Grill
Buying
Guide I ON
G ILLS
Look, we love charcoal, but using it means watching daylight
P R I C E P L AY
Expect to pay
$300 or more
for a workhorse
grill. Cheaper
models are
USING A SKILLET
ON THE GRILL
S P E C I F I C A L LY C A S T
IRON BECAUSE IT
minutes tick away while waiting for the coals to be ready. Thats a appealing but
luxury for a more relaxed day of the week. Gas grills heat quickly C A N TA K E A S E R I O U S
may last only
and easier and offer nearly instant temperature adjustments. Its like one season. BEATINGMEANS
cooking indoorsbut outdoorswhich is kind of the whole point. T H A T V I R T U A L LY A N Y
SHAKE TEST
A few tips for making the most of yours: Opening the lid R E C I P E C A N B E FA I R
shouldnt cause
an earthquake. GAME OUTSIDE:
ZONE SMOKY STIRFRIES,
OFFENSE VEG SIDES THAT
Three or
more burners WOULD OTHERWISE
equal plenty of FA L L T H R O U G H T H E
cooking space,
with flexibility GRATES, OR THESE
to create hot CL AMS, SAUTED WITH
and cool zones.
CHOPPED SHALLOTS
AND BEER (NOT
E X A C T LY T R A D I T I O N A L
G R I L L F R I E N D LY
INGREDIENTS). THE
GRILL IS NOT
N E C E S S A R I LY T H E
PL ACE TO USE YOUR
FA M I LY H E I R L O O M
SKILLET, THOUGH.
Al ways
Keep WE VOTE FOR
1 P R E H E AT 2 P L A N YO U R ZO N E S Ex t r a D E D I C A T I N G A 12 "
These grills need a chance to Keep one or two burners on high, Pr opane CASTIRON SKILLE T FOR
preheat so that food will start and one or two off or on low. on Hand O U T D O O R U S E O N LY .
sizzling (and not sticking) as soon 3 U S E T H AT W E I R D S M A L L
as it hits the grates. So youll want TOP RACK CLEAN AND OIL IT
to walk in the door, kiss your kids, Because its the farthest cooking Because you AFTER EACH USE; STORE
pull the meat out of the fridge, surface from the gas burners, it can dont want to
then turn those knobs to high. Set function as a cool zonea good leave the office INDOORS. OH, AND
all the burners to their max heat option for grilling longer-cooking dreaming of DONT FORGE T TO GE T
for 10 minutes with the lid closed, cuts like bone-in chicken pieces, burgers, only to
then drop the heat as needed
A GOOD GLOVE FOR
or keeping sausages warm while find that your
when its time to start cooking. you char some vegetables. tank is on empty. THAT HOT HANDLE!

66
 CHILELIME
CLAMS WITH
TO M ATO E S
AND GRILLED
BREAD
P. 72
 CHICKEN
SPIEDIE
SKEWERS
W I T H I TA L I A N
DRESSING
P. 73
 G R I L L E D FAT TO U S H
RULE 4 W I T H H A L LO U M I
AND EGGPLANT
P. 72

MA
INAT
in T E Take Your
Ki t chen

A.M.
Out doors
Set yourself up
for success.
Load up a baking
sheet with all
the seasonings
N O B O DY L I K E S and tools
you anticipate
DOING HOMEWORK, needing.
YE T EVERYONE
LOVES ACING A TEST. CUT TING
MORNING BOARD AND
KNIFE
MARINATING IS LIKE For letting
THAT: WHEN YOU meat rest, or
tasks like slicing
WALK IN THE DOOR
the kernels
L A T E R T H A T D AY A N D off a corncob. RULE 5
A L L YO U H AV E TO D O Paper towels
or a kitchen
I S T H R O W F L AV O R F U L towel, too.
MEAT ON THE GRILL, SEASONING
YOULL FEEL LIKE KIT
Black pepper,
GIVING YOURSELF A flaky sea salt,
GOLD STAR. FREEZER maybe some
chile flakes.
RATED RESEAL ABLE
OLIVE OIL
BAGS SHOULD KEEP For drizzling
LIQUIDS WHERE THEY veg before or
after throwing
BELONG, BUT PLACE them on the grill.
BAG IN A BO WL IN THE TONGS AND
FRIDGE TO BE SAFE. S PA T U L A
Long tongs are Heres an idea: Instead of bouncing between kitchen and
great for grilling, patio, just make the whole meal outside. Giving veggies like
since they romaine, zucchini, and scallions a char adds earthiness to salads
Five T hings to keep your hands and sidesand means 15 fewer minutes cooped up indoors.
Marina t e in away from the Stick with large, well-oiled pieces that wont fall through grates,
fire. Dont forget
Classic It alian or use a cast-iron skillet (see our suggestions below).
your fish spatula
Dr essing if youre cooking
seafood.
FLANK STEAK
TRASH
CHICKEN BREASTS
Take the whole
BUT TERFLIED LEG can, or at least a ROMAINE EGGPLANT SPINACH
OF LAMB garbage bag or RADICCHIO ZUCCHINI ARUGULA
BONELESS BEEF a big bowl. Do
ENDIVE ROMANESCO CUCUMBERS
SHORT RIBS you really want
to carry that CABBAGE GREEN BEANS D E L I C AT E H E R B S
PRET TY MUCH
nest of burned BROCCOLINI TO M ATO E S
ANYTHING ON
corn husks SCALLIONS
A SKEWER
back inside?
Didnt think so.
69
 RULE 6
RULE 7

S ND DONT
T Y
IN T E Aluminum
Foil Makes
Your Life T IS
SA SAG IN
Easier

SID
CLEAN THE
GRILL WITH IT
Scrunched-up
The great thing about fresh links: The work has already been foil makes a
done. It's the quick-cooking, preseasoned protein your weeknight good backup
dinner has been waiting for, and this giant, showstopping pinwheel grill brush. (See
is just one way to get started. Prep School, Y O U S AY C R I S P Y
page 110.) SKINNED SEARED
SNAPPER, WE THINK
Six Mor e Ways Wrap grilled fresh W R A P YO U R
t o Use Sausage chorizo in a tor tilla VEG IN IT F I S H Y SM E L L I N G
with avocado and Foil packets K I T C H E N . YO U S AY
Add lightly charred pico de gallotacos! are a hands-off
andouille to potato salad BLISTERED GREEN
Grill brat wurst with method for
Fo r m l o o s e s p i c y t u r k e y onions and peppers and cooking veg BEANS, WE THINK
s a u s a g e i n t o p a t t i e s , t he n throw it inside a roll (tossed in olive
SMOKE ALARM. SOME
cook . Instant burgers! oil and salt)
Ser ve grilled merguez OF THE STRESSES AND
like potatoes,
Skewer sliced smoked with cucumbers and mint
carrots, small MESSES OF COOKING
k i e l b a s a f o r e a s y ke b a b s and a dollop of yogur t
eggplants, and
beets, which JUST DISAPPEAR WHEN
will partially YO U HEAD OUTDOORS
steam as they
cook, keeping LE T THE OIL SPL AT TER,
I TA L I A N
them soft and L E T T H AT PA N G E T
SAU SAG E
unburned.
SCREAMING HOT,
WITH GRILLED
BROCCOLINI, MAKE AN LE T THAT FISH SMELL
KALE, AND I N S TA N T P R E P
LEMON
LIKEFISH. THEN
S U R FA C E
P. 73 Park food on WALK BACK INSIDE
it before or TO A KITCHEN THAT
after cooking.
LOOKS PRISTINE
BECAUSE, WELL, IT IS.
Don t Go
t o Bed
Wi t hout
Cl eaning
Up

No weeknight
griller wants
to come home
to a dirty grill.
After cooking,
turn up the heat
for 510 minutes
to carbonize
everything, then
clean the grates
with a wire brush
or balled-up foil.

70
SNAPPER WITH
BLISTERED BEAN
SA L A D A N D
C H I L E V I N E GA R
P. 73
 Grilled Fattoush with
Halloumi and Eggplant
4 S E RV I N G S We love Halloumis
squeaky texture, but some torn
salted mozzarella would be just as
good (just dont try grilling it).
D R E SS I N G
5 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for grill
2 scallions
1 jalapeo
cup halved pitted Castelvetrano
or other green olives
3 Tbsp. salted, roasted pistachios
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
ASS E M B LY
1 Tbsp. dried thyme
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds
tsp. garlic powder
2 6" pitas
2 medium eggplants, halved
lengthwise (or crosswise if
using 1 large eggplant)
2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for grill
Kosher salt
1 8-oz. package Halloumi cheese
2 large Persian cucumbers or 1 small
English hothouse cucumber
1 lb. tomatoes, halved, cut into
wedges if large
cup torn mint leaves
cup dill sprigs
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Halloumi cheese
can be found in Greek markets, natural
foods and specialty foods stores, and
some supermarkets.
D R E SS I N G Prepare a grill for medium
heat; oil grate. Grill scallions and
jalapeo, turning once, until lightly
blistered and crisp-tender, about
2 minutes for scallions and 4 minutes
for jalapeo. Transfer to a cutting
board and let cool slightly.
Slice open jalapeo and scrape out
seeds (unless you like things very spicy);
discard. Coarsely chop chile and
scallions. Mix in a medium bowl with
olives, pistachios, lemon juice, vinegar,
and 5 Tbsp. oil; season dressing with
salt and pepper.
D O A H E A D : Dressing can be made
1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring
to room temperature before serving.
ASS E M B LY Mix thyme, sesame seeds,
and garlic powder in a small bowl. Lightly
coat pitas and eggplants with 2 Tbsp.
oil; season with salt and rub with thyme
7 2 J U N E 2 0 17
72
mixture. Grill, turning occasionally and
moving to a cooler part of grill if needed
to avoid scorching, until pitas are golden
and crisp and eggplants are browned
and tender, 5 minutes for pitas, and
810 minutes for eggplants. Transfer
to a platter and let cool slightly.
Meanwhile, grill Halloumi until
charred and soft, about 2 minutes per
side. Transfer to platter with pitas
and eggplants.
Tear pitas and Halloumi into chunky
pieces, then cut eggplants into bite-size
pieces. Transfer to a large bowl and
add cucumbers, tomatoes, and dressing.
Give everything a good toss to bring
it all together; season with salt. Top with
mint leaves and dill sprigs.
Soy-Basted Pork Chops
with Corn and Poblano Salad
4 S E RV I N G S Psstyou dont need to
presoak or preshuck corn before grilling
it. Just put the whole ears on the grate
and the husks and silk will slip right off
afterward. Youre welcome.
cup soy sauce
cup unseasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. dark or light brown sugar
4 "-thick bone-in pork blade or
rib chops
Vegetable oil (for grill)
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
tsp. hot sauce (such as Franks)
Kosher salt
4 ears of corn, in husk
2 small poblano chiles
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 scallions, chopped
Tender herbs (such as mint and
cilantro) and sliced jalapeos
(for serving)
Stir soy sauce, vinegar, and brown sugar
in a small bowl until sugar is dissolved.
Prick pork chops all over with a fork and
place in a large resealable plastic bag.
Pour in half of marinade, seal bag, and
turn to evenly coat pork chops. Set
remaining marinade aside. Let pork chops
sit at least 10 minutes, or chill up to 1 day
(cover and chill remaining marinade too).
Prepare a grill for medium heat;
oil grate. Whisk lime juice and hot sauce
in a medium bowl; season with salt.
Set dressing aside.
Grill corn (still in husks) and poblano
chiles, turning occasionally, until corn
is charred all over (husks will be nicely
blackened and some of the kernels will
become deeply browned in spots) and
chiles are blackened in spots and crisp-
tender, 1012 minutes for corn and 810
minutes for chiles. Transfer to a platter
and let cool slightly before shucking corn.
Slather corn with butter, then cut kernels
from cobs into bowl with reserved dressing.
Remove seeds from chiles and chop.
Add to corn along with scallions. Toss to
combine; season corn salad with salt.
Remove pork chops from marinade;
discard marinade. Season chops lightly
with salt and grill, drizzling with reserved
marinade and turning occasionally,
until cooked through, 68 minutes.
Top pork chops with herbs and
jalapeos and serve with corn salad.
Chile-Lime Clams with
Tomatoes and Grilled Bread
4 S E RV I N G SSure you can cook clams
right on the grill grate, but getting
a skillet involved means capturing all
of their delicious briny juices.
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into
pieces, divided
2 large shallots, chopped
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 cup beer
1 cup cherry tomatoes
1 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed
2 Tbsp. (or more) sambal oelek
24 littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
4 thick slices country-style bread
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt
cup cilantro leaves with
tender stems
Lime wedges (for serving)
Prepare a grill for medium, indirect heat
(for a gas grill, leave one or two burners
off; for a charcoal grill, bank coals on
one side of grill). Place a large cast-iron
skillet on grill over direct heat (move it
around to cooler part of grill as you cook
if needed) and melt 4 Tbsp. butter in
skillet. Add shallots and garlic and cook,
stirring often, until soft, about 4 minutes.
Add tomato paste and cook, stirring
often, until paste darkens to a rich brick-
red color, about 1 minute. Add beer and
tomatoes. Bring to a boil and cook until
beer is reduced nearly by half and no
longer smells boozy, about 4 minutes. Stir
in chickpeas and sambal oelek, then add
clams. Cover (if you dont have a lid that
fits, use a sheet of foil) and cook, stirring
GUTTER
occasionally, until clams have opened;
this could take from 510 minutes
 depending on size of clams and the heat
level. Remove from heat; discard any
clams that dont open. Stir in lime juice
and remaining 2 Tbsp. butter.
While the clams are cooking on the
grill, drizzle bread with oil and season
lightly with salt. Grill until golden brown
and crisp, about 2 minutes per side.
Transfer toast to plates and spoon clam
mixture over; top with cilantro. Serve with
lime wedges for squeezing over.
Chicken Spiedie Skewers
with Italian Dressing
4 S E RV I N G S Central New York State is
known for sandwiches stuffed with juicy
skewered meat marinated in Italian
dressing; these are tasty enough to serve
straight up, but we wouldnt stop you from
putting them on soft Italian bread, either.
1 garlic clove, finely grated
5 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. chopped Peppadew peppers
in brine
1 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. dried oregano
cup olive oil, plus more
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs
(about 6)
1 large sweet onion, sliced " thick
2 beefsteak tomatoes (about 1 lb.),
sliced " thick
Oregano leaves and lemon
wedges (for serving)
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN.
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Six to nine 8" metal
skewers, or wooden skewers soaked
30 minutes in water
Whisk garlic, vinegar, peppers,
mayonnaise, sugar, dried oregano, and
cup oil in a medium bowl; season with
salt and pepper. Transfer half of dressing
to a small bowl; cover and chill until
ready to serve.
Cut chicken thighs lengthwise into long
strips, about 1"1" wide (you should
get 23 pieces per thigh). Combine
chicken and remaining dressing in a
large resealable plastic bag. Seal bag,
pressing out any air. Turn to coat and
chill at least 20 minutes and up to 1 day.
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat;
oil grate. Remove chicken from dressing;
discard dressing. Thread 2 pieces
of chicken onto each skewer. Season
chicken lightly with salt and grill, turning
GUTTER
occasionally, until golden brown
and cooked through, 810 minutes.
Meanwhile, drizzle onion with oil;
season with salt. Grill until browned on
both sides but still firm in center, about
3 minutes per side. Transfer to a large
bowl and add tomatoes and a couple
splashes of reserved dressing. Toss to coat;
season salad with salt and pepper. Top
salad and chicken with oregano leaves.
Serve chicken with salad, reserved
dressing, and lemon wedges for
squeezing over.
Italian Sausage with Grilled
Broccolini, Kale, and Lemon
4 S E RV I N G S Even sausage can dry out
when overcooked; we like browning
them over direct heat, then moving them
to a cooler spot to finish cooking.
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more
for grill
3 Tbsp. crushed unsalted, roasted
almonds
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. drained capers
1 tsp. honey
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 bunches broccolini (about 1 lb.)
1 small bunch Tuscan kale, tough
stems removed
1 lb. coiled Italian sausage,
preferably skewered, or links
1 lemon, thinly sliced into rounds,
seeds removed
2 oz. mild Pecorino, shaved
Prepare a grill for medium-high, indirect
heat (for a gas grill, leave one or two
burners off; for a charcoal grill, bank
coals on one side of grill); oil grate. Mix
almonds, lemon juice, capers, honey,
and 4 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl; season
dressing with salt and pepper.
Combine broccolini and kale in a
large bowl and drizzle with remaining
1 Tbsp. oil. Toss well to evenly coat
vegetables; season with salt.
Grill sausage over direct heat until
browned all over, about 3 minutes per
side. Move to indirect heat and continue
to cook, turning and rotating occasionally,
until cooked through, 810 minutes.
Transfer to a platter.
Meanwhile, cook broccolini and
kale over direct heat until kale is lightly
browned and crisp around the edges
and broccolini stem is crisp-tender,
about 1 minute for kale and 3 minutes
for broccolini. Transfer back to bowl.
Grill lemon slices over direct heat until
lightly browned, about 1 minute per side.
Transfer to bowl with broccolini
and kale and add half of dressing and
half of Pecorino. Toss to combine; season
salad with salt and pepper.
Mound some of the salad on top of
the sausage and leave some in the bowl.
Drizzle remaining dressing over all of the
salad and top with remaining Pecorino.
Snapper with Blistered Bean
Salad and Chile Vinegar
4 S E RV I N G S If there is one time wed
want to cheat and cook something
indoors, it would be to make a pot of rice
to soak up the extra dressing here.
1 habanero chile, seeds removed,
finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
cup unseasoned rice vinegar
4 tsp. light brown sugar
Kosher salt
2 small red onions, cut through root
ends into 8 wedges
2 cups sugar snap peas, strings
removed
2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more
for drizzling
1 lb. green beans, trimmed
4 6-oz. snapper fillets
1 cup torn basil leaves
cup crushed salted, dry-roasted
peanuts
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat.
Put a large cast-iron skillet on grill to heat.
Meanwhile, stir chile, garlic, vinegar,
and brown sugar in a small bowl until
sugar is dissolved; season chile vinegar
with salt. Set aside. Toss onions, sugar
snap peas, and 1 tsp. oil in a large
bowl; season with salt.
As soon as skillet is hot, add vegetables
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
blistered and crisp-tender, 68 minutes
for onions and about 4 minutes for
sugar snap peas. Transfer to a platter.
Toss green beans and 1 tsp. oil
in another large bowl and cook directly
on grill grate on one side until blistered,
lightly charred, and crisp-tender, about
3 minutes. Transfer to platter with onions
and sugar snap peas and toss to coat;
drizzle reserved chile vinegar over.
Wipe out skillet with paper towels.
Add 1 Tbsp. oil and set back on grill.
Season snapper all over with salt and
cook, skin side down, in skillet until
skin is golden brown and crisp, about
4 minutes. Turn and cook just until
cooked through, about 2 minutes.
Set snapper on top of bean salad
and top with basil and peanuts.
J U N E 2 0 17 7 3
I BL
 WHEN
COOKBOOK
AUTHOR SAMIN
NOSRAT COOKS
A SUMMER
FEAST AT HER
FRIEND SARAH
R Y H A N E N S
F L O W E R FA R M ,
THE ETHOS
BEHIND THE
MENU
IS SIMPLE:
GRILL. IT. ALL.
photographs by Peden + Munk

OO
 A B OV E : N O S R AT S T R I K E S A P O S E I N T H E B A R N ; T O R N Z U CC H I N I W I T H M I N T A N D C A L A B R I A N C H I L E S , P. 84.
O C O O K W I T H S A M I N N O S R AT is to pick
herbs, pound garlic, squeeze lemons, and get
a sneakily profound education. No matter that
on this particular afternoon, shes making dinner
without an actual kitchen or even running water
Worlds End, the remote New York farm owned
by her friends and hosts Sarah Ryhanen and
Eric Famisan of Brooklyn floral favorite Saipua,
has neither. Spending all day around a prep
table in the barn and the makeshift cinder block
grilling kitchen that she MacGyvered nearby
with her friend Lori Podraza is to understand
the true joy of cooking.
Thats because the beyond-ebullient Bay Area
chef, teacher, and writer emphasizes the essentials: Shop well, taste constantly,
and understand that salt, fat, acid, and heat are really all you need to make
something irresistible, modern amenities or no. It took Nosrat almost a year
of panicking in the kitchen at Chez Panisse to figure out that philosophy and
another 16 of cheffing, writing, and teaching (thats her schooling Michael
Pollan in Cooked) to turn what she learned into a book about cooking ele-
mentally, the game-changing Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat.
Nosrats summer cooking philosophy is simple: So many vegetables, so
many condiments: Thats what makes a meal, she says, adding, You can
make anything delicious with the right condiment. Today, an herb-green
charred tomatillo chermoula and a rustic, ruddy-colored harissa are the
put-them-on-everything sauces to accompany a feast of minty torn zucchini
76
salad, smoky fire-cooked red peppers flecked with
marjoram, caveman-esque bone-in rib eyes, and
almost too many other dishes to count.
Her food is so bright and flavorful and comforting.
Everything about her, I felt it in her food, Ryhanen
says. (The two met six years ago after Nosrat blog-
stalked her.) As for her tutelage under Nosrat during
their many farm weekends together, Ryhanen says with
a laugh, Ive learned about the importance of salt.
Nosrat and Podraza, who worked together at
Chez Panisse, confidently command the wood-fired
kitchena waist-height double-sided grill, a bread
oven, and a coal-straddling garden trellis from which
they strung 12 chickensthat they free-styled from
100 cinder blocks, no men in sight.
Nosrat says that when it comes to women gaining
confidence grilling, they should just kick the dudes
out. A big part of me is fake it til you make itand
knowing that thats what guys are doing too.
That evening, as everyone finishes their second and
third plates, while apricots concentrate their sweetness
over the flames, Nosrats crush on condiments becomes
an all-out group lovefest as the guests ask her for reci-
pes. The colors, textures, and flavors mix happily, salt,
fat, and acid bringing simple summer ingredients
to life thanks to that DIY heat. C H R I S T I N E M U H L K E
An elaborate wood-
fired kitchen
fashioned from
cinder blocks and
iron gratesbrings
the heat, blessing
everything from
steaks to stone fruit
with smoky flavor.
 CHARRED
TO M AT I L LO
CHERMOULA
P. 84

CHOPPED
SA L A D W I T H
S H A L LOT
VINAIGRET TE,
FETA , AND DILL
P. 8 4

GRILLED
BONEIN
RIB EYE
P. 85

78
 TOP TO
BOTTOM, LEFT
TO RIGHT:
Ryhanen shows
Nea some love;
a pond-worthy
vessel; seeding
chiles for
harissa; Peppers
with Garlic and
Marjoram, p. 85;
Saipua intern
Jaime McCuaig
digs in; peppers
softening in the
embers; DeVonn
Francis on corn
duty; the makings
of an eggplant
and black tahini
dip; an epic
dinner alfresco.
 Ryhanen
harvesting
foliage from the
wilds of Worlds
Ends 107 acres.
She bought the
farm as a means
of diversifying
Saipuas floral
offerings.

8 0
B L AC K B E R RY
COLLINS
P. 8 4

CHARRED
BREAD WITH
R I C OT TA
A N D C H E R RY
SA L SA
P. 84
 SALT FAT ACID HEAT
WISDO When food Constant When you can, The first side of a
ROM tastes flat, the most
common culprit
temperature
fluctuations from
use the same kind
of acid for cooking
food to be browned
will always be the
SAMIN is underseasoning.
If youre not sure
a nearby stove or
daily brushes with
and garnishing
spoon tomato salsa
most beautiful, so
lay that food in a
NOS ATS salt will fix the the suns rays will atop pork braised pan or on the grill
SALT, FAT, problem, take a
spoonful or small
encourage olive
oil to go rancid, so
with tomatoes;
finish a risotto with
with its presentation
side down. For
ACID, HEAT bite and sprinkle
it with a little salt,
store it somewhere
reliably cool and
a fresh splash of
wine from the same
poultry, that means
skin side down;
then taste again. dark. If you cant bottle used earlier for fish, that means
If something shifts keep it in a dark to deglaze the pan. skin side up.
and you sense the place, store olive This kind of layering For meat, use your
zing! then go ahead oil in a dark glass offers multiple judgment and
and add salt to bottle or metal can tastes of the same put the prettiest
the entire batch. to keep light out. ingredient. side down.

GUTTER
 GRILLED
A P R I C OTS W I T H
ALMOND
CREAM AND
F R E G O LOT TA
P. 8 5

83
Blackberry Collins
8 S E RV I N G S
Not a fan of blackberries?
This cocktail will be just as good with
blueberriesor any other berry you like,
for that matter.
9 oz. fresh blackberries
(about 1 cups)
1 cup sugar
2 cups chilled dry gin
cup fresh lemon juice
2 cups chilled club soda
Lemon wheels (for serving)
Bring blackberries, sugar, and cup
water to a boil in a medium saucepan,
stirring until sugar is dissolved. Reduce
heat so that liquid is at a simmer and
cook, stirring occasionally, until fruit is
very soft, 2025 minutes. Let blackberry
syrup cool, then strain through a fine-
mesh sieve into a large pitcher, pressing
on fruit to extract as much liquid as you
possibly can; discard solids.
Add gin and lemon juice to syrup in
pitcher. Add ice to fill and stir until chilled,
about 3 minutes.
Fill Collins glasses with ice cubes
and divide cocktail among glasses. Top
each with cup club soda and garnish
with lemon wheels.
Charred Bread with Ricotta
and Cherry Salsa
8 S E RV I N G S
This cherry salsa is
also delicious as a condiment for grilled
or roast pork or pulsed in a food
processor to make a vinaigrette for
a salad of tender greens.
3 spring onions, preferably red,
white/red and green parts
separated, thinly sliced on
a steep diagonal
5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
12 oz. fresh cherries (about 2 cups),
pitted, cut into "-thick slivers
cup olive oil, plus more for
brushing
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 baguette, sliced in half lengthwise
12 oz. whole-milk fresh ricotta
Flaky sea salt
Toss white/red parts of spring onions
and lemon juice in a medium bowl to
coat and let sit 10 minutes.
Add spring onion greens, cherries, and
cup oil to bowl and toss gently again
to incorporate; season cherry salsa with
kosher salt and pepper.
84
Prepare a grill for medium-low heat.
Brush cut sides of baguette with oil.
Grill, cut sides down, until bread is toasted
and golden brown, about 3 minutes.
Let toasts cool for a minute, then spread
generous amounts of ricotta over both
pieces. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Cut
each half on a diagonal into 6 pieces.
Arrange on a platter and, using a slotted
spoon, top with cherry salsa.
D O A H E A D : Cherry salsa can be made
6 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
Chopped Salad with Shallot
Vinaigrette, Feta, and Dill
8 S E RV I N G S Make this salad with
whatever produce youd like (such as
blanched fava beans and asparagus in
the spring); just make sure everything is cut
to roughly the same size.
1 medium shallot, finely chopped
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
cup fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
cup olive oil
Kosher salt
8 oz. sugar snap peas (about
2 cups), trimmed, thinly sliced
on a diagonal into " pieces
1 bunch radishes (about 12),
trimmed, thinly sliced
4 medium Persian cucumbers,
quartered lengthwise,
cut crosswise into " pieces
1 romaine heart, quartered
lengthwise, cut crosswise into
" pieces
medium head of radicchio,
cut crosswise into " pieces
6 oz. feta, crumbled (about
1 cups)
1 cups torn dill fronds
Freshly ground black pepper
Mix shallot, lemon zest, lemon juice, and
vinegar in a large bowl. Let sit 10 minutes,
then mix in oil. Set vinaigrette aside.
Meanwhile, mix a palmful of salt into
a medium bowl of ice water; add peas.
Let sit 10 minutes, then drain and pat dry
(this makes them super crisp).
Add peas, radishes, cucumbers,
romaine, and radicchio to bowl with
reserved vinaigrette; toss well to coat.
Add feta and dill, season with salt
and pepper, and toss again to combine.
Transfer to a platter to serve.
D O A H E A D : Vinaigrette can be made
6 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Bring
to room temperature before using.
Torn Zucchini with Mint
and Calabrian Chiles
8 S E RV I N G S No, you dont have to tear
the zucchini with your hands, but it makes
for a cool presentationand we all
know its way more fun than using a knife.
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
cup red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. sugar
Kosher salt
cup coarsely chopped oil-packed
Calabrian chiles from a jar
4 large zucchini (about 2 lb. total),
halved lengthwise, leaving
stems on
3 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil
cup torn mint, plus more for serving
Prepare a grill for medium heat. Combine
onion and vinegar in a large bowl
and let sit 10 minutes. Mix in sugar and
a generous pinch of salt, then add chiles;
set chile mixture aside.
Toss zucchini on a rimmed baking sheet
with 3 Tbsp. oil; season with salt. Grill,
turning halfway through, until steamy
and tender within and charred all over,
1216 minutes. Transfer back to baking
sheet and let cool slightly.
Tear zucchini into 1"2" pieces
and add to reserved chile mixture. Add
remaining cup oil and toss to coat;
season with salt. Add mint and toss gently
just to distribute. Let sit 5 minutes to allow
flavors to come together.
Transfer zucchini mixture to a platter
with a slotted spoon; top with more mint.
Charred Tomatillo Chermoula
M A K E S A B O U T 2 C U P S Giving the
tomatillo some time to drain and cool
after its been grilled makes for a
creamier and more avorful sauce.
2 lb. small tomatillos, husks removed,
rinsed
2 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil
Kosher salt
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, coarsely
chopped
1 jalapeo, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves
2 cups coarsely chopped cilantro
1 tsp. ground cumin
Prepare a grill for medium heat. Toss
tomatillos on a rimmed baking sheet with
2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt. Grill, turning
occasionally, until flesh is jammy and
skins are blackened and blistered, 1520
 minutes. Transfer to a sieve set over
a bowl and let cool; discard liquid that
has drained off into bowl.
Process tomatillos, ginger, jalapeo,
garlic, cilantro, cumin, and remaining
cup oil until smooth; season with salt.
D O A H E A D : Chermoula can be made
1 day ahead. Cover and chill.
Marinated Red Peppers
with Garlic and Marjoram
8 S E RV I N G S Its key that you let
the peppers steam in a covered bowl
until cool. This will make them more
tender and easier to peel.
8 red bell peppers
2 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. (or more) sherry vinegar
or red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. chopped marjoram, divided
Kosher salt
Heat broiler. Place bell peppers on
a rimmed baking sheet. Broil, turning
occasionally, until skins are blackened
SALT, FAT, ACID, HEAT: MASTERING THE ELEMENTS OF GOOD COOKING. COPYRIGHT 2017 BY SAMIN NOSRAT. PUBLISHED BY SIMON & SCHUSTER.
and blistered all over, 1417 minutes.
Transfer peppers to a large bowl, cover
with plastic wrap, and sweat 15 minutes.
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. WISDOM FROM SAMIN NOSRAT, P. 82, REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM
Remove skins and seeds from peppers;
discard. Tear peppers into about 2"-wide
strips. Toss in a clean large bowl with
garlic, oil, vinegar, and 1 Tbsp. marjoram;
season with salt. Let sit at least 20 minutes
and up to 4 hours.
Just before serving, taste peppers
and season with more vinegar and/or
salt if needed. Scatter remaining 1 Tbsp.
marjoram over top.
Garlicky Harissa
M A K E S A B O U T 1 C U P S This isnt the
thick harissa that resembles a paste. Treat
it like your favorite barbecue sauce and
smother grilled steak and chicken with it.
8 dried guajillo chiles (about 2 oz.),
seeds removed
2 chiles de rbol, seeds removed, or
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 tsp. cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine
vinegar
Kosher salt
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A spice mill or a
mortar and pestle
Place guajillo chiles and chiles de rbol
in a large heatproof bowl and pour
in boiling water to cover. Let soak until
softened, 4045 minutes; drain.
Meanwhile, toast cumin seeds in a
dry small skillet over medium heat, swirling
pan often, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Let cool, then finely grind in spice mill
or with mortar and pestle.
Drain chiles; transfer to a blender
and pure, adding hot water by the
tablespoonful as needed until smooth.
Strain chile mixture through a fine-mesh
sieve; discard solids. Mix in ground cumin,
garlic, oil, and vinegar. Season with
salt and let sit 15 minutes before serving.
D O A H E A D : Harissa can be made
1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
Grilled Bone-In Rib Eye
8 S E RV I N G S Let it rain with the kosher
saltfor the best avor, you want to
season these simple steaks really well
before they get grilled.
3 2" bone-in rib-eye steaks
(about 2 lb. each)
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Flaky sea salt (for serving)
The night before you plan to cook the
steaks, pat dry with paper towels and put
on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking
sheet. Season generously with salt and
pepper and chill, uncovered, until about an
hour before you want to cook your steaks.
Pull steaks from the refrigerator and let sit
on your counter at room temperature.
Prepare a grill for medium-high, indirect
heat (for a charcoal grill, bank coals
on one side of grill; for a gas grill, leave
one or two burners off). Grill steaks over
direct heat, turning, until nicely charred,
about 4 minutes per side. Move steaks
over indirect heat and continue grilling,
turning halfway through, until browned
all over, about 4 minutes per side. Using
tongs, hold a steak perpendicular to grill
and sear bone side and fat-cap side of
steak to render out some of the fat, about
2 minutes per side. Repeat with remaining
steaks. Insert an instant-read thermometer
into the thickest part of steaks; if it registers
120 for rare (steaks will carry over to
125, or medium-rare, as they rest), theyre
done. Continue to cook over indirect heat
if neededanother 24 minutes should
do it. Transfer to a cutting board; let rest
20 minutes before slicing against the grain.
Arrange sliced steaks on a platter and
sprinkle with sea salt.
Grilled Apricots with Almond
Cream and Fregolotta
8 S E RV I N G S Here, the dough for
fregolotta, an Italian cookie, is broken
up into small pieces, then baked. For
step-by-step instructions on how to get
the perfect crumble, turn to Prep School,
p. 108. And you may end up with some
extra. Save it in an airtight container
at room temperature for up to three days.
Its great over ice cream and Nutella.
F R E G O LO T TA C R U M B L E
cup blanched almonds
1 cup all-purpose flour
cup sugar
cup fine-grind cornmeal
2 tsp. flaky sea salt
cup (1 stick), unsalted butter,
melted
1 tsp. vanilla extract
tsp. almond extract
APRICOTS
16 ripe apricots, halved, pitted
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 cups heavy cream
1 tsp. almond extract (optional)
Honey (for serving)
F R E G O LO T TA C R U M B L E Preheat oven to
350. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking
sheet, tossing once, until golden brown
and fragrant, 68 minutes. Let cool; pulse
in a food processor until mostly finely
ground but there are still bits of almond.
Mix almonds, flour, sugar, cornmeal,
and salt in a large bowl, then add butter
and vanilla and almond extracts and
work in with your fingers or the handle of
a sturdy wooden spoon. Scatter crumble,
trying not to break it up too much, on
a rimmed baking sheet and bake, tossing
halfway through, until golden brown,
2025 minutes. Let cool.
A P R I C O T S A N D ASS E M B LY Prepare a
grill for medium heat. Brush the cut
side of each apricot half with oil and
grill apricots, cut side down, until lightly
charred and juices start to seep out of
fruit, 68 minutes. Using a metal spatula,
carefully turn apricots and grill a minute
or so until the other side is lightly charred.
Transfer to a plate.
Using an electric mixer, beat cream in
a medium bowl until medium peaks form.
Fold in almond extract, if using.
Divide warm apricots among plates.
Spoon some whipped cream on top.
Drizzle with honey and scatter fregolotta
crumble over.
85
 S OT IN A BEE
Afternoon
Siesta
C R A C K I N G O P E N A C O L D O N E O N A H O T D AY I S
Combine oz.
Campari , oz. E A SY E N O U G H , B U T W H Y N OT TA K E YO U R B R E W T H AT E X T R A
tequila blanco,
B O OZ Y M I L E A N D T U R N I T I N TO A S U M M E RY C O C KTA I L ?
oz. fresh lime
juice, and oz. by Tristan W illey photograph by Peden + Munk
agave nectar in an
ice-filled cocktail
shaker. Cover and
shake vigorously
until the outside of
shaker is very cold,
about 20 seconds.
Strain into a pint
glass and top with
8 oz. chilled
American IPA.
Garnish with a lime
wheel. Makes 1

Top Banana
Fill a pint glass
partway with ice.
Add oz. fresh
lime juice ,
oz. crme de
banana (preferably
Giffard), and
8 oz. chilled lager.
Stir gently to
combine. Garnish
with a lime wedge.
Makes 1
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

Cowboy
Shandy
Combine 1 oz.
High West Campfire
whiskey or blended
Scotch , oz. fresh
lemon juice, and
oz. simple syrup
in an ice-filled
cocktail shaker. Cover
and shake vigorously
until the outside
of shaker is very cold,
about 20 seconds.
Strain into a pint glass
partly filled with ice.
Top with 8 oz. chilled
lager and stir gently
to combine. Garnish
Chile-Salt with a lemon twist.
Michelada Makes 1
Mix 1 Tbsp. kosher
salt and a pinch of
cayenne pepper on
a small plate. Moisten
the rim of a pint glass
and press into chile
salt to lightly coat.
Combine oz. fresh
lime juice, 2 dashes
hot sauce (preferably
Cholula), and 1 dash
Worcestershire
sauce in glass. Partly
fill glass with ice and
top with 8 oz. chilled
Mexican beer. Stir
gently to combine.
Garnish with a lime
wedge. Makes 1

Makes 1
Makes 1
Radler

Garnish with
then top with

Vigorously stir
or white beer.
Fill a pint glass

Combine 4 oz.

and a pinch of
Grapefruit

oz. gin, oz.

Fill glass partway

1 oz. gin, oz.
grapefruit soda,

Beers Knees

in a pint glass until

partway with ice.

fresh lemon juice,

Top with a dash of

chilled Pilsner and
fresh lemon juice,

with a lemon slice.

honey is dissolved.
6 oz. chilled wheat

desired, and garnish

kosher salt in glass,

a grapefruit wheel.

and 1 tsp. honey

Angostura bitters if
Stir gently to combine.

stir gently to combine.

with ice. Top with 8 oz.
 AT G U N P OW D E R I N LO N D O N , T W O C H E F S A R E S E RV I N G U P G R I L L E D
L A M B C H O P S W I T H H E R B Y C H U T N E Y, C H I L E Y O G U R T C H I C K E N T H I G H S , A N D C R I S P Y
K A L E SA L A D T H AT C O M B I N E T H E S P I C E S O F I N D I A W I T H C H A R C O O K E D LOV E

EXPLOSION
by Kurt Soller recipes by Harneet Baweja and Nirmal Save
photographs by Peden + Munk
 R OA S T E D
EGGPLANT
AND
CRISPY KALE
W I T H YO G U RT
P. 97

89

O U T S I D E O F I N D I A , the best
place to feast on Indian food is
London. In that city, its said that
there are more Indian spots than in
Delhi and Mumbai combined, some
10,000 restaurants in all. (In India,
dining out is not quite as common.)
But whenever chefs Harneet
Baweja and Nirmal Save craved
the meals they grew up eating in
Calcutta and Mumbai, they felt
stuck choosing between Londons
fine-dining temples (where both
worked) and Brick Lane curry-in-
a-hurry joints. What the two pals
desired was a place where they
could share crispy lamb chops, spill
some hot sauce on the table, and
throw back beers to cool their taste
buds. A restaurant thats, well, just
like Gunpowder, the casual Indian
caf that Baweja, his wife, Devina,
and Save opened two years ago.
As with most good business
decisions, we were drunk when
we made it, Baweja says, having
drawn queues out the door for the
30 plates that cycle through their
menu. Many are riffs on things that
Bawejas grandmother, now 91,
served her massive family. And the
name for the restaurant comes from
the spice mix that mothers in South
India blend up themselves.
When it came time to cook in the
narrow Spitalfields spacea for-
mer Indian take-out joint and long
ago, fittingly, an artillery ground
the guys couldnt get fancy ovens
to fit through the door. We spoke
to Nirmals mom, who lives in a vil-
lage, and she asked us, Why do
you do this? Baweja recalls. In
her house, she said, we just cook
out in the openwood, charcoal,
whatevers available. So they
installed a grill in the restaurant;
the char it imparts has since become
Gunpowders silver bullet. We
were like, f*#% it, lets do that,
Baweja shrugs. With these mix-
and-match recipes, you can too.
Grilled Mustard Broccoli
4 S E RV I N G S
This is not your average
side dish: The broccoli is slathered
in a spiced yogurt sauce, then grilled
for even more flavor.
2 small heads of broccoli
(about 1 lb.)
Kosher salt
cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. mustard oil or olive oil
1 Tbsp. whole grain mustard
1 tsp. Kashmiri chili powder
or paprika
1 tsp. chaat masala
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground turmeric
Vegetable oil (for grill)
Trim broccoli stems, then cut away from
heads. Peel stems and slice lengthwise
into "-thick planks. Break up heads into
large orets. Cook orets and stems in
a large pot of boiling salted water until
bright green and crisp-tender, about
2 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a bowl
of ice water to cool. Drain and pat dry
with paper towels.
Whisk yogurt, mustard oil, mustard,
chili powder, chaat masala, cumin, and
turmeric in a large bowl. Add broccoli
and toss to coat; season with salt.
Prepare a grill for medium-high
heat; oil grate. Grill broccoli, turning
occasionally, until charred in spots,
57 minutes. Transfer to a platter.
Spice-Marinated and
Grilled Lamb Chops
4 S E RV I N G S You dont need a roaring-
hot grill for these chops. Grilling them
over moderate heat will allow some of
the fat to soften and render.
tsp. fennel seeds
1 serrano chile, finely grated
1 2" piece ginger, peeled,
finely grated
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
cup crme frache or sour cream
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. mustard oil (optional)
1 tsp. dried mango powder
(amchoor; optional)
1 tsp. dried fenugreek leaves
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
tsp. finely grated nutmeg
1 tsp. Kashmiri chili powder or
paprika, plus more for serving
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus
more for grill
12 lamb rib chops (about
2 lb. total), frenched
Kosher salt
Mint leaves, cilantro leaves
with tender stems, and lemon
wedges (for serving)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or
mortar and pestle
Toast fennel seeds in a dry small skillet
over medium heat, shaking pan often,
until fragrant, about 45 seconds; let cool.
Finely grind in spice mill or with mortar
and pestle. Transfer to a large bowl; add
in chile, ginger, garlic, crme frache, lime
juice, mustard oil (if using), mango powder
(if using), fenugreek leaves, pepper,
nutmeg, 1 tsp. chili powder, and 2 Tbsp.
vegetable oil and mix well. Season lamb
chops with salt and add to marinade; turn
to coat. Cover and chill at least 2 hours.
Let lamb chops sit at room temperature
1 hour before grilling.
Prepare a grill for medium heat; oil
grate. Grill lamb to desired doneness,
about 3 minutes per side for medium-rare.
Transfer to a platter; let rest 510 minutes.
Top lamb with mint and cilantro and
dust with more chili powder. Serve with
lemon wedges.
D O A H E A D : Lamb can be marinated
12 hours ahead. Keep chilled.
Beet and Radish Pickles
M A K E S A B O U T 3 C U P S These pickles
are extra salty and crunchy. Theyre
best paired with fatty cuts of meat but
also good to munch on by themselves.
3 small red beets, peeled,
halved lengthwise, cut into
"-thick wedges
6 red radishes, trimmed,
cut into "-thick wedges
1 Tbsp. fennel seeds
cup distilled white vinegar
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. sugar
Place beets and radishes in a small bowl.
Toast fennel seeds in a dry small saucepan
over medium heat, shaking pan often, until
fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add vinegar,
salt, sugar, and cup water and bring
to a boil, stirring until salt and sugar are
dissolved, about 1 minute. Pour brine over
beets and radishes and let cool. Cover
and chill at least 8 hours before serving.
D O A H E A D : Vegetables can be pickled
1 week ahead. Keep chilled.
 GRILLED
M U S TA R D
B R O CC O L I
 You know
whats perfect
with these
lamb chops?
A creamy, minty,
green chutney.
Mix up
a batch using
the recipe
on page 94.

SPICE
M A R I N AT E D
AND GRILLED
LAMB CHOPS
P. 9 0

92
 BEET
AND RADISH
PICKLES
P. 9 0

CUCUMBER
R A I TA W I T H
B L AC K
M U S TA R D
AND
CILANTRO
P. 94

CHILEAND
YO G U RT
M A R I N AT E D
GRILLED
CHICKEN
P. 94
Green Chutney
with Chaat Masala
M A K E S A B O U T C U P Serve this tart
and earthy chutney with grilled meats,
samosas, or your favorite Indian curry.
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, chopped
1 jalapeo, seeds removed, chopped
1 cups cilantro leaves
with tender stems
1 cups mint leaves
cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
4 tsp. fresh lemon juice
4 tsp. vegetable oil
1 tsp. chaat masala
Kosher salt
Pulse ginger, jalapeo, cilantro, mint,
yogurt, lemon juice, oil, and chaat
masala in a food processor until smooth;
season with salt.
Chile-and-Yogurt-Marinated
Grilled Chicken
4 S E RV I N G S Yes, youll need a lot of
spices, but its not much work from there.
Let the chicken marinate for 12 hours
to get the most impact.
7 dried Kashmiri or guajillo
chiles, broken into pieces,
seeds removed
1 1" piece ginger, peeled,
coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves
cup plain whole-milk yogurt
(not Greek)
3 Tbsp. chopped cilantro stems
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. mustard oil (optional)
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. dried mango powder
(amchoor; optional)
1 tsp. crushed dried fenugreek leaves
1 tsp. garam masala
1 tsp. ground cumin
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil,
plus more for grill
1 lb. skinless, boneless
chicken thighs, patted dry
Kosher salt
Place chiles in a medium bowl and
pour in hot water to cover. Let sit until chiles
are very soft, about 30 minutes; drain.
Blend chiles, ginger, garlic, yogurt, cilantro
stems, lime juice, mustard oil (if using),
coriander, paprika, mango powder (if
using), fenugreek leaves, garam masala,
cumin, and 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in
a blender until smooth. Transfer marinade
to a large resealable plastic bag. Season
chicken generously with salt and add
to marinade. Seal bag and turn to coat
chicken. Chill at least 2 hours.
Let chicken sit at room temperature
1 hour before grilling.
Prepare a grill for medium heat; oil
grate. Remove chicken from marinade,
letting excess drip back into bag, and
grill, turning every minute or so, until
beginning to char in spots, 810 minutes
total. Transfer to a platter and let rest
510 minutes before serving.
D O A H E A D : Chicken can be marinated
12 hours ahead. Keep chilled.
Cucumber Raita with Black
Mustard and Cilantro
M A K E S A B O U T 3 C U P S While this cooling
yogurt sauce is welcome alongside spicy
foods, it is also amazing slathered on
flatbreads or spooned over basmati rice.
tsp. cumin seeds
1 Tbsp. sunflower or other neutral oil
1 tsp. black or brown mustard seeds
3 Persian cucumbers
3 cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, finely grated
cup finely chopped cilantro,
plus sprigs for serving
Kosher salt
Kashmiri chili powder or
paprika (for serving)
Toast cumin seeds in a dry small
saucepan over medium heat, shaking pan
often, until fragrant, about 45 seconds.
Transfer to a plate and let cool. Coarsely
grind in a spice mill or coarsely chop
with a chefs knife; set aside for serving.
Heat oil and mustard seeds in a
small skillet over medium until seeds begin
to pop, about 1 minute. Let cool.
Grate cucumbers on the medium holes
of a box grater; squeeze out excess liquid
with your hands and transfer to a medium
bowl. Mix in yogurt, lemon juice, garlic,
and cup cilantro; season with salt.
To serve, drizzle raita with mustard
oil, sprinkle with chili powder and reserved
cumin, and top with cilantro sprigs.
Kashmiri Hot Sauce
M A K E S A B O U T 1 C U P Use this hot sauce
as a condiment or mix in additional
aromatics like grated garlic and ginger
to make a marinade for meat.
tsp. fennel seeds
tsp. black or brown mustard seeds
1 medium tomato, halved
crosswise, seeds removed
5 fresh red chiles (such as Fresno)
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 tsp. Kashmiri chili
powder or paprika
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. sugar
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or
mortar and pestle
Toast fennel seeds and mustard seeds in
a dry small saucepan over medium heat,
shaking pan often, until fragrant, about
45 seconds. Transfer to a plate and let
cool. Finely grind in spice mill or with
mortar and pestle. Transfer back to pan.
Pulse tomato and chiles in a food
processor until nely ground. Transfer to
saucepan with ground spices and mix in
vinegar, chili powder, salt, and sugar. Bring
to a simmer over medium heat, stirring
often; cook until chiles are soft and sauce is
slightly thickened, 57 minutes. Let cool.
D O A H E A D : Hot sauce can be made
1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
Grilled Garlic-and-Black-
Pepper Shrimp
4 S E RV I N G S Salt, pepper, garlic, acid,
and a bit of heat are all you need to
punch up these easy shrimp skewers.
1 fresh red chile (such as Fresno),
seeds removed, finely grated
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 Tbsp. coarsely ground pepper
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil,
plus more for grill
1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined
Kosher salt
Lime wedges and Kashmiri chili
powder or paprika (for serving)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Four 8"-long metal
skewers or bamboo skewers soaked 30
minutes in water
Whisk chile, garlic, pepper, lime juice,
and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl. Add
shrimp and toss to coat; season with salt.
Thread shrimp onto sets of 2 skewers.
Prepare a grill for medium-high
heat; clean grates well, then oil. Grill shrimp,
turning once, until cooked through and
lightly charred, about 5 minutes total. Serve
with lime wedges dipped in chili powder.
KASHMIRI
H OT SAU C E

GRILLED
GA R L I C
A N D B L AC K
PEPPER
SHRIMP

95
 SPI CE
IS NICE
If youre cooking
Indian, stock
your pantr y
accordingly.

MUSTARD
(SEEDS, OIL)
You want the
pungent brown
seeds, spicier
black ones, and
the intensely
peppery oil
derived from
them.

KASHMIRI
CHILI
POWDER
Revered as much
for its mild spice
as the vermilion
shade it lends.

GARAM
MASALA
A warming
spice mix that
combines
clove, nutmeg,
mace, cinnamon,
cardamom,
pepper, green
coriander, and/
or cumin.

CHAAT
MASALA
Another blend,
with cumin,
coriander, dried
ginger, black
salt, pepper,
amchoor (dried
mango powder),
asafetida, and
more. Also tasty
on fresh fruit!

CHICKPEA
ASAFE TIDA S U N DA L
A boldly
flavored powder
from a plant
root, it delivers
savoriness and
backs up other
spices. Helps
digestion, too.
 Chickpea Sundal
4 S E RV I N G S
Serve this light snack warm,
room temp, or cold; just make sure you
give it a generous dose of acid and salt.
1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil or
vegetable oil
2 tsp. black or brown mustard seeds
6 fresh curry leaves
3 dried Kashmiri or guajillo chiles,
broken into pieces, seeds removed
tsp. asafetida (optional)
2 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed
Kosher salt
cup freshly grated coconut or
unsweetened shredded coconut
Lime wedges (for serving)
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-
high. Cook mustard seeds, swirling pan
occasionally, until oil begins to sputter.
Add curry leaves, chiles, and asafetida
(if using) and cook, stirring occasionally,
until curry leaves are slightly darkened,
about 45 seconds. Add chickpeas; cook,
tossing often, just until warmed through,
about 3 minutes. Let cool; season with salt.
Scoop sundal into a bowl; top with
coconut. Serve with lime wedges.
Roasted Eggplant and
Crispy Kale with Yogurt
4 S E RV I N G S Roasting the eggplants at
a high heat will make the flesh very
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
tender while making the skin a little crispy.
2 medium Italian eggplants
(about 1 lb. total),
quartered lengthwise, cut
crosswise into 1" pieces
cup vegetable oil
Kosher salt
1 tsp. dried mango powder
(amchoor; optional)
tsp. ground cumin
6 Tuscan kale leaves, ribs and stems
removed, leaves coarsely torn
1 medium Persian cucumber
1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, finely grated
2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
Olive oil (for drizzling)
Preheat oven to 450. Toss eggplants with
vegetable oil on a rimmed baking sheet;
season with salt. Roast, tossing halfway
through, until eggplants are charred in
spots and tender, 2025 minutes. Remove
from oven, sprinkle with mango powder
(if using) and cumin, and toss to coat.
Meanwhile, heat a dry large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-high.
Add kale, arranging to t in a single even
layer (work in batches if needed), and
cook, turning occasionally, until charred
in spots and crisp, about 4 minutes.
Grate cucumber on the medium holes
of a box grater; squeeze out excess liquid
with your hands and transfer to a medium
bowl. Mix in yogurt, lemon juice, and
garlic; season with salt.
Toss tomatoes with a good pinch of salt
and a drizzle of olive oil in a medium
bowl. Spoon yogurt mixture onto a platter
and layer eggplants, kale, and tomatoes
on top. Drizzle with more olive oil.
COOK THE COVER
Nagaland House Ribs
with Tamarind Glaze
4 S E RV I N G S Tamarind is sweet, sour,
and quite tart and provides the ideal
base for this finger-licking glaze.
See Prep School on page 108 for our
preferred brand.
RIBS
2 racks baby back pork ribs
(34 lb. total), halved crosswise
5 oz. ginger, peeled, chopped
1 orange wedge (about of orange)
5 star anise pods
2 cups unfiltered apple juice
1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 2 tsp.
Morton kosher salt
6 habanero chiles, halved
lengthwise, seeds removed
if desired, divided
cup plus cup (lightly packed)
light brown sugar
cup ketchup
cup apple cider vinegar
cup tamarind concentrate
3 Tbsp. honey
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
Vegetable oil (for grill)
Kosher salt
1 Persian cucumber, thinly sliced
small red onion, thinly sliced
serrano chile, very thinly sliced
2 tsp. fresh lime juice
Micro cilantro and/or cilantro
sprigs and lime wedges
(for serving)
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Often labeled
concentrate cooking tamarindor
paste, tamarind concentrate can be
found at Asian markets and online.
R I B S Place ribs in a large Dutch oven
or other heavy pot. Add ginger, orange
wedge, star anise, apple juice, salt, half
of chiles, and cup brown sugar. Pour
in water just to cover pork and bring to a
simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat so
liquid is at a very gentle simmer, partially
cover pot, and braise, turning racks a few
times, until meat is fork-tender and nearly
(but not quite) falling off the bones, 12
hours. Chop remaining chiles while ribs
are cooking and set aside.
Carefully transfer ribs to a rimmed
baking sheet and let cool. Cut between
ribs to create 2-rib pieces.
Meanwhile, crank up the heat under
the Dutch oven to high and add
ketchup, vinegar, tamarind concentrate,
honey, remaining cup brown sugar,
and reserved chopped chiles to braising
liquid. Cook, stirring often, until glaze is
thick enough to coat a spoon (it should be
reduced to 11 cups), 3045 minutes.
Strain into a large measuring cup; discard
solids. Let settle so oil rises to surface.
Pour off oil into a small bowl; set aside.
D O A H E A D : Ribs can be braised 1 day
ahead. Let cool in liquid; cover and chill.
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY Prepare a grill for
medium heat; oil grate. Working one at
a time, dip ribs into glaze to coat. Grill ribs,
turning several times, until glaze is lightly
charred, about 5 minutes total. Transfer
ribs to a platter; season with salt. Drizzle
with remaining glaze and reserved oil.
Toss cucumber, onion, chile, and lime
juice in a medium bowl to combine;
season with salt. Scatter salad over ribs
and top with micro cilantro. Serve with
lime wedges.
 I F T H E R E S O N E I N G R E D I E N T T H AT D E F I N E S
T H A T F U E L A L L T H O S E B U R N I S H E D , S M O K Y, L I V E F I R E

OR ST
R E S TA U R A N T C O O K I N G R I G H T N OW, I T S T H E L O G S
F L AV O R S . J U L I A K R A M E R G E T S T O T H E R O O T O F T H E M
photographs by Peden + Munk

ABL
TO

Forbes March,
who provides
kindling to 75
restaurants in or
near NYC, walks
on fire(wood).

MY WINTER SMELLED OF SMOKE . Night
after night, I caught a whiff of burning logs, of fat
dripping onto coals, of sourdough toasting and rib
eyes charring and knobby carrots blackening over
jumpy flames. This scent welcomed me to North
Yarmouth, Maine, where chef Krista Kern Desjarlais
bakes crackly Montreal-style bagels in a woodburn-
ing oven built into the side of her 544-square-foot
cottage, the Purple House. The aroma hit me when
I walked onto the patio of Vicia in St. Louis and
(unsurprisingly) into a hipster hangout named
Campfire in Carlsbad, California. It recurred as a
motif among four of the most talked about recent
openings in Chicago, whether the cuisine was
Argentine (El Che Bar), American (Elske), Mexican
(Lea Brava), or Mediterranean (Publican Anker).
And itsmokewas visible through the kitchen
window at the start of a $293-per-person tasting
menu at Single Thread in Healdsburg, California,
emanating from a pile of local almond wood.
Its funny to call this return to cooking with fire a
trend. If it is, its certainly the oldest trend in the
book. And yet there is no arguing that the burning
hearth has of late gripped the restaurant world,
seeming to bestow the imprimatur of serious chef
on anyone who embraces it. Over the past few years,
live-fire cooking has gone from the province of back-
yard barbecuers and homesteader-type chefs (such
as Russell Moore of Oaklands Camino) to a national
phenomenon. Its become de rigueur among casino
kitchens in Las Vegas and scene-y restaurants in
Miami and Michelin-star hopefuls in Brooklyn. But
no ones saying its easy.
WHERE DO YOUR LOGS COME FROM?
is a question you dont hear in restaurants very often.
People are curious about how their shrimp have been
harvested or which farm grew that precious pink
endive or where in Sicily this weird natural wine is
madebut, given the newfound ubiquity of logs in
restaurant kitchens, isnt it time we started to won-
der about the trees? You know, the ones that were
felled and burned to ash, all for the sake of that
blackened onion or burnished half chicken? Wood is,
like gas, a natural resource. But it cant be flipped on
with a switch; it must be delivered by someone.
This someone is typically a guy. (As in, I got a
guy.) Just as chefs know which farmer grows the
sweetest corn or which ceramist makes the most
distinctive bowls, they tend to spend a long time
testing out various firewood suppliers before choos-
ing one. And as with any ingredient, the varietal
(ash, oak, maple, hickory, etc.) matters, the quality
of the processing matters, and the reliability of the
delivery matters. Jeremiah Langhorne, of D.C.s The
Dabney, gets his logs from one Michael Fincham,
who barn-dries and ages white oak for months in
West Virginia. At Vicia, Michael and Tara Gallina
call a wood supplier named Scott Lowry, who deliv-
ers Missouri oak, persimmon, and cherrywood. And
when Lee Desrosiers, the chef at Achilles Heela
bar in Brooklyn that hangs whole birds over a fire
for a special called Hell Chickenneeds more
wood, he calls a guy named Forbes March.
Last fall I drove two and a half hours up to Jeffer-
sonville, New York, population 359 as of the 2010
census, to see March. I could tell you that I chose to
visit him because he was the closest of the firewood
suppliers to New York City or because Desrosiers
swears by his product, but the truth is that I just
wanted to meet him. He is, as far as my research
shows, the only firewood guy on earth who was also a
soap opera star (some might remember him as win-
ery owner Nash Brennan on One Life to Live in the
mid-aughts), model (for Tommy
Hilfiger and Armani while living
The flames in Milan in the 90s), and hedge-
roar all fund manager (in Manhattan
night
beneath the
leading up to the 08 recession).
Grillworks
at Reynard
in Brooklyn.
HO T
SP O T S
Where to watch
your meal
go up in flames
1
THE DABNEY
Washington,
D.C.
Mid-Atlantic
cooking gets its
due thanks to
chef Jeremiah
Langhorne,
who even grills
a salad (of root
vegetables)
in a hand-built
hearth.
10 0
After that, March moved to a nine-acre property
upstate and launched the New York Firewood Com-
pany, which now supplies kindling to 75 restaurants
throughout the tristate area.
When I arrived at the dot marked on the GPS,
there was no visible address, just a two-story-high
pile of felled trees along the side of the road. As
I pulled in to Marchs driveway, he emerged from
behind that log pile, grinning. Thats the stuff we
send to the restaurants, he said, walking me toward
a barn, half of which was filled with logs, split to
precise widths, stacked neatly into four-foot-wide,
four-foot-long, four-foot-deep cubes called pallets,
plastic-wrapped like turkey sandwiches in a deli
case. He gestured to a pallet of ash: Thats what the
pizza places like. Hickory: For steakhouses. White
birch: If you burn it, it smells like root beer. March
stood beside a wall of tools. Id never even used a
chain saw when I started, he said. Now I produce
the best wood in the county.
March grew up in Nova Scotia, went to McGill
University, dropped out after a year, then stumbled
into an acting agency on his door-to-door sales
route hawking fake Rolexes. They called me a
week later and said, Weve got an audition for
you, March said. So he went to Barnes & Noble
and asked for the acting section: I got a book on
how to act, did my audition, and got the job. The
show was called Northwood, which he described as
a sort of Canadian 90210. He got into modeling
and moved to Milan, where he met his wife, with
whom he has two children, ages 17 and ten. The
family eventually ended up on New Yorks Upper
West Side, where March worked at a hedge fund
until the economy collapsed.
It would seem plausible that the financial crisis
would have caused March to have some sort of mid-
life crisis or epiphany. But when I asked him how he
ended up going from finance guy to Catskills fire-
wood entrepreneur, all he could talk about was trout.
We came up to a campground, March said. I threw
a fly in and caught a fish right away: an 18-inch brown
trout. He became obsessed with fishing and planned Sean Rembolds
to buy land next to the river as a family camping
spot. But his wife wanted a farmhouse with electric-
ity, which is how they ended up with the Jefferson-
ville property, in what used to be called the Borscht
Belt (and is still home to a large Orthodox Jewish
population in the summer). March dabbled in farm-
ing (Eh. Its kind of boring.) and raising chickens Nashville
(You never get a day off, but you never work really At the backyard
hard.) before settling on firewood. Ive always been bar of Urban
attached to fires, he said. During the energy crisis Cowboy B&B,
in the 80s, my dadwhos totally manic-obsessive, a dries herbs,
little like mewent down to the basement with a
hacksaw, cut out our furnace, dragged it upstairs,
and literally threw it into the street in fury over the
price of oil. He decided we were going to heat our
house with firewood.
This transition from finance to firewood was not
smooth. I took what money I had, said March, and
put it into what is really a luxury businessduring a
Reynards
but ternut
squash,
roasted in the
recession. And then he got sued coals and
by a neighbor over a zoning dis- finished on
pute. That Christmas, we were the wood-
burning grill.
drinking orange Tang and all the
kids gifts came from the dollar
store, March said. Two years before, there I was in
a tuxedo presenting at the Daytime Emmy Awards.
But I had a sense that I needed a different experience.
2 I wanted to do something boots to the mud. And you
REYNARD
dont get much more boots to the mud than this.
Brooklyn
The raging
The first thing March needed was good logs. How
heat from a did he get them? Loggers, March said, letting the
Grillworks word hang there. Sometimes they have phones.
setup fuels
Theyre still very Norman Rockwell. He had to con-
ingredient- vince the loggers to trust himto believe that hed
focused plates pay them for the wood. That took me six years! he
at the
Wythe Hotel. said, laughing. Now Ive got amazing loggers; they
bring me beautiful wood. It needs to be straight, it
3 needs to be long, and it needs to be a certain diame-
PUBLIC ter. Too small, and the claw of the wood splitter
HOUSE
cant grab it. (Very dangerous.) Too big, and it cant
fit into the splitter. Too twisty, and itll try to go
through the splitter sideways. (That breaks stuff.)
Marchs expertise lies not just in selecting the
Tom Bayless
wood but also in drying it. Its a legal requirement
warms olives, that wood be heated to 160 degrees before its trans-
and perfectly ported to prevent the spread of invasive bug species.
browns chicken
over coals But consumers (especially chefs) demand wood
with no gas thats much drier than the law requires. Treesthink
or electric
appliances in about themare moist, waterlogged, and heavy.
sight. Properly dried wood burns cleaner and more evenly.
So after the loggers drop off the goods on Marchs
lawn, the logs are cut into 16-inch-long blocks and
101

This giant pile
of logs at
March s farm
will soon
be split and then put through a splitter. (This
dried to machine is dangerous as hell,
chefs specific something March can attest to
needs.
with his left thumb, which has
been sewn back on.) Those strips
dry out for a day or two, then are put into kilns,
essentially dehydrators the size of shipping contain-
ers. The wood cooks at 260 degrees for two days,
powered by a woodburning furnace filled with
scraps: the short bits, the long bits, all the crumbs
thats our fuel, March said. The kiln removes about
400 pounds of water from each pallet. In the win-
tertime, well actually have our own weather pat-
terns, March said. Itll snow here because were
producing so much steam.
After two days, the split logs come out of the kiln
dry enough to just about light with a match, March
said. Eight years ago, it was amazing to have this
incredibly dry wood. Now, if its not so ridiculously
dry, the [customers are] furious. The wood rests for
another day, then gets wrapped in plastic before
being delivered to restaurants, from the West Village
pizzeria Kest to Achilles Heel in Greenpoint.
Because firewood is considered a fire hazard in
New York City, restaurants are officially allowed to
store only one days worth of it outside a secured
area, necessitating frequent delivery. But most places
get biweeklynot dailydrop-offs, which partly
explains why wood has become such a popular
design element in restaurants, stacked at entryways
and along walls the way old-school Italian-American
restaurants used to store wine bottles; if the wood is
part of the decor, its legal. The delivery to the city is
Marchs biggest headacheHow do you deliver fire-
wood in a 26-foot box truck in Manhattan without
double-parking? he asked rhetoricallyas well as
the foundation of his business. Without a shipment of
sunflower sprouts, a chef can sub in another green.
Without firewood? The most committed live-fire res-
taurants wouldnt be able to cook.
When I asked March if hes ever worked with any
difficult chefs, he laughed hysterically. Every restau-
rant he delivers to expects a particular product, and
hell spend months working with a chef developing
wood to a precise size and dryness. If we dont bring
them that, March said, gesturing over to a cube of
ash destined for Kest, theyve got an oven thats
going hot, cold, hot, cold, and then their pizza is
either raw or burnt.
THE TEMPERATURE OF THE HEARTH at The
Dabney is not warm. The giant, extraordinarily
well-ventilated fire piton which much of the res-
taurants food is cookeddoesnt emit that snug,
cozy feeling you get from your oven when, say,
braising a brisket on a freezing day. The heat here is
fiercerscorching, actually, a violent permutation
of hot that gets trapped in your cheeks. Standing
two feet away from the flames, I feel it in my eye-
brows, my forearms, the inside of my eyelids. The
chef, Jeremiah Langhorne, seems to be in a more
or less permanent condition of rosy-cheeked.
Cai, Langhorne says, addressing one of the
cooks who mans the fire. How many water bottles
do you go through a night? Twenty? Cai Lindeman
half-smiles, grabs a fresh log from a stash under-
neath the hearth and shoves it into the fire, scrunch-
ing his face into a look of mild irritation as he nears
the flames. He draws forward a pile of coals that
burn so hot theyre not red; theyre white, glowing
4
DEATH &
with an energy that makes them appear, from a cer-
TAXES tain angle, nearly translucent. Every so often a hot
Raleigh, NC spark plops onto the kitchen floor, unnoticed, and
Ashley burns itself out.
Christensens Nearly every seat at The Dabney fills the minute
ode to wood
fire: Oysters, the restaurants doors open, and Langhorne relays
sweet potatoes, order after order to his cooks. Soft butter pools on
eggs, greens,
and more all top of cornbread thats been baked in the hearth in
get tinged with cast-iron pans preheated to a solid 600 degrees.
oak smoke from Sausage-stuffed quail glistens in its fat, the birds skin
the custom-
built grill. caramelized a deep golden brown from careful man-
agement over the coals. Short ribs are glossy to the
5 point of lacquered, their crispness visible. The food
CAMINO at The Dabney is not really rustic, but the primitive
Oakland, CA
hearth lends a guttural, visceral character to all of it.
A member of
the Original We had people who told us we were idiots for
Guard of live - doing this, the chef says, gesturing toward the
fire fanatics, hearth, which he opted for in lieu of gas lines. Youd
Russell Moore
has been be hard-pressed to invent a better poster chef for
cooking in such an old-fashioned, low-tech cooking technique
his enormous
open hearth than Langhorne, with his Colonial Williamsburg
since 2008. sounding name, love of century-old cookbooks, and
penchant for chatting up his line cooks before service
about which Virginia farmer sells the best Gold Rush
10 2
 apples and how to make proper watermelon
molasses. Hes a soul from another era. This is basi-
cally the closest I could get to just cooking food in a
pit in the ground, he explains. Except were not in an
open field. Were in the middle of a very busy restau-
rant in Washington, D.C.
When I ask Langhorne where he got the idea for a
woodburning hearth, he reaches underneath his
expediting table and wordlessly hands me a copy of grillmaster Dan
Mallmann on Fire, the 2014 cookbook by the Argen-
tine chef Francis Mallmann. In my experience talking Midwest with this
to grilling-obsessed chefs, its typically only a matter recent opening.
of time before the conversation turns to Mallmann
or to Etxebarri. (Chefs consider the latter, Victor
Arguinzonizs temple to wood-fired grilling, an hour
outside San Sebastin, Spain, an essential pilgrim-
age.) But Etxebarri has been around since 1990, and Lewis plants five
Mallmanns been on TV since the 80s. So why is all trees for every
this happening now?
You can point to Grillworks, the Michigan-based
Texan barbecue
manufacturer whose grillsoutfitted with steel restaurant burns
crank wheels that look like the love children of a
Weber and a medieval torture devicehave become
chef favorites. The companys Infierno line, which
youll spot in kitchens like Coqueta in San Francisco,
starts at $29,000. But price aside, the ease of procur-
ing and installing one of Grillworks gorgeous top-of-
the-line setups has made wood-fired grilling almost
as easy as cooking with gas. Not to mention the fact
that as chefs spotted the shiny rigs in the kitchens of
Dan Barber and Sean Brock, well, who wouldnt want
one of their own?
You can point to Mallmanns Chefs Table episode
that aired in 2015.
You can point to the fact that the flames just, well,
look cool.
Or you can sit down for a tasting menu, alone, as
I did recently at an extremely beautiful restaurant
in New York City. I was at a chefs counterthe
kind of setting thats intended to create a sense of
intimacy with the kitchen. But instead of feeling as
though I had a first-row seat for No Reservations, I
spent the meal thinking about how antiseptic the
whole thing felt. Sure, oysters were shucked and
steak tartares were gently tossed and perfectly rect-
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
angular slices of crudo were fanned onto plates, but
where was the actual cooking? There was a coldness
to the experience, a sense that all the sous videing
and mise en placeing and tweezering had somehow
frozen the joy, the gustatory pleasure, the hot,
messy act of cooking.
When I tell Langhorne about this experience, he
nods in agreement. He explains that hed come up
with the concept for The Dabney while executing
modernist Southern cooking at Sean Brocks
McCradys in Charleston, South Carolina. You have
one cook whose whole night is cooking 20 duck
breasts, says Langhorne of the repetition typical in
a high-volume restaurant kitchen. Thats no way to
live. And a lot of cooks are starting to realize that.
With the layout at The Dabney, the cooks are phys-
ically cooking.
Tom Bayless, the chef of Urban Cowboys Public
House in Nashville, expresses something similar. For
6 years he turned out tasting menus at Nashvilles
VICIA fine-dining chefs counters: first the Catbird Seat,
St. Louis
then Bastion. I wanted to bring it way back down.
Two alums of
Blue Hill at I wanted to have more fun, Bayless explains over the
Stone Barns phone. But I still wanted to cook around the people
run by the
woodburning eating. His solution was a restaurant thats as close
as you can get to sitting around a campfire. Showing
Barberbring up to work and lighting a fire every day is, for lack of
the heat to the
a better word, therapeutic, he says. You use way
more instinct than trained skill.
Unlike a sous vide machine or a Pacojet ice cream
7 maker or a deck oven, a wood-fired grill is a sensory
KYU
Miami
experience, not only for the cooks but for everyone
Chef Michael in the room. You see the flames. You smell the smoke.
It feels like real cooking. And maybe once in a while,
it even makes you feel something.
trees worth
of old oak that Imagine youre at a party with a bunch of strang-
his Korean- ers, and theres a fire, March said, as we stood out on
his front lawn between one of his kilns and a flock of
through. mallard ducks hed raised. Complete strangers will
walk up to the fire, stand close enough to each other
that it would be outlandishly uncomfortable in
any other environment, and stay there in complete
silence for a long time, in total comfort with each
other. And then, without any segue or transition,
theyll just start talking to each other, as if theyve
been friends since childhood.
March leaned against the rusty
kiln, gesturing with his arms, a Scallions
consummate actor. Theres just charred
over
something about fire. the red-hot
oak wood
coals at
Reynard.
10 3
prep school

Pour some
tamarind on
meeeee, in the FROM P. 97
name of love.
STICKY
SITUATION
While we were testing
TEST KITCHEN TALK
the recipe for Nagaland
House Ribs on the cover, we
found that different brands Chris Morocco,
senior food editor
of tamarind concentrate
(sometimes labeled paste)
vary widelyfrom hard, Most tubular pasta
fibrous blocks of dried d fruit to
dark, molasseysey syrups. We shapes come in both
tried them all and ultimately ridged (rigati) and
settled on Tamicon, a brand
from India, for its smooth,
smooth (lisci) forms.
jammy quality and rich The former, which
sheen. Once youve made are grooved all over,
the ribs, stir whats left of this
pucker-worthy condiment are perfect for when
into stews or yogurt, we want noodles to hold
or brush it on as a sweet-
and-sour glaze for on to as much saucy
vegetables or broiled fish. deliciousness as possible.
AS H L E Y M AS O N
The latter, which are slick,
are ideal for when wed
rather watch the sauce
FROM P. 36
weve lovingly crafted
Buckwheat Wild slide off our pasta and
So often the packaged soba noodles I prepare at home turn out back onto our plates. And
mealy and mushy. After we tested several brands, Hakubaku since we basically never
organic soba proved the best at resisting breakdown. Many soba
are made with a blend of wheat and buckwheat flours, and the want that, well almost
higher proportion of wheat in these makes them extra-sturdy. All soba always opt for penne
is prone to overcooking, though, so boil only for the time listed
on the package, drain, and rinse immediately with cold water. C . S .
rigate or rigatoni when
given the option.

FROM P. 85

COOKIE
CRUMBLES
Traditionally, Italian fregolotta
cookies are brought to the table
presmashed for guests, who then
nibble on the resulting crumbs.
But for the fregolotta crumble that
Samin Nosrat uses as a crunchy
topping on grilled apricots, the
dough for the cookies is formed
1. 2. 3.
into irregular bits before baking, Once the melted butter has Gently scatter the crumbles on Put the crumbles in the oven. About
a process that takes a bit of been fully incorporated into the baking sheet to prevent them from halfway through the 2025-minute
finesse. At right, our technique dry ingredients, use your breaking into smaller pieces. If bake, remove the pan from the oven
for getting just the right texture finger to break up the dough so they do, squeeze the mixture back and give it a firm shake so the bits
every time. N . R . that large crumbles form. together and break it up again. get golden brown on all sides.

1 0 8 J U N E 2 0 17
prep school

FROM P. 70

FOILED AGAIN!
A good grill brush is worth its weight in gold, but for all those times when
one isnt on handbeach house rental, public park, etc.theres heavy-
duty aluminum foil. A wad of the stuff (gripped with long-handled tongs,
ideally) is just the thing for getting in between greasy grill grates,
and you can pitch it when youre finished. (Bonus points if you repurpose
a piece you used earlier to cover potato salad.) A M I E L S TA N E K

FROM P. 36

Dressing to Impress
Lets be real: A salad, be it noodle- or veggie-based, is only as good as
the sauce its tossed with. These fresh, brightly seasoned dressings are the
keys to waking up your barbecue cold-side-dish game this summer. A . S .

Miso-Mustard Coconut-Lime Garlicky Peanut

Dressing Dressing Dressing
Whisk 3 Tbsp. fresh Whisk 6 Tbsp. Whisk cup natural
lemon juice, 3 Tbsp. unsweetened creamy peanut
white miso, 1 Tbsp. coconut milk, 3 Tbsp. butter, cup soy
spicy Chinese or fresh lime juice, sauce, cup
Dijon mustard, 1 tsp. 5 tsp. fish sauce, unseasoned rice
pure maple syrup, 1 Tbsp. light brown vinegar, 1 Tbsp.
1 finely grated garlic sugar, and 1 Tbsp. honey, and 1 finely
clove, and 1 Tbsp. finely grated shallot grated garlic clove

FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. ILLUSTRATIONS: BRUCE HUTCHISON (SKEWERS, MOROCCO, CRUMBLE);
water in a bowl until in a small bowl until in a small bowl until
smooth. Gradually smooth. Gradually smooth. Gradually
add cup olive oil, add cup vegetable add cup vegetable
whisking constantly oil, whisking constantly oil, whisking constantly
until emulsified. until emulsified. until emulsified.
Do ahead: Do ahead: Do ahead:
Dressing can be Dressing can be Dressing can be
made 1 day ahead. made 1 day ahead. made 1 day ahead. CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (SAFFITZ, BARAGHANI, SOBA, DRESSINGS, SMOKER).

Cover and chill. Cover and chill. Cover and chill.

Makes about 1 cup Makes about 1 cup Makes about 1 cup

STAFF PICK: A MAZEN SMOKER

We used to think we needed a bulky smoker if we wanted to bless our meal
with the irresistible flavor of real hardwood smoke. That is, until we tried the
A-Maze-N Smoker. The $35 tool turns pretty much any container (gas grill,
trash can, filing cabinet) into a smoker. Fill up the wire metal box with wood
pellets, light it, and prepare for sweet cherry, maple, or hickory notes to mingle
with your food as it smolders for up to 11 hours. Our test kitchen manager,
Brad Leone, uses it for making lox, smoking mozzarella, and lending meat
cooked over propane barbecue-pit flavor. $35; amazenproducts.com A.M.

11
1 0 J U N E 2 0 17
recipe index sourcebook
COOK THE COVER Spice-Marinated Roasted Eggplant TRAVEL PLANNER JAZAMANGO Calle Naranjos Las Huertas
Fracc., Todos Santos; +52-612-688-1501;
Nagaland House Ribs and Grilled Lamb and Crispy Kale
with Yogurt p. 97 R.S.V.P. pp. 1014 jazamango.com
with Tamarind Glaze Chops p. 90 LA COCINA DE DOA ESTHELA Rancho
OLMSTED 659 Vanderbilt Ave., Brooklyn;
p. 97 Italian Sausage with Torn Zucchini with 718-552-2610; olmstednyc.com San Marcos, El Porvenir, Ejido San Marcos;
Grilled Broccolini, Mint and Calabrian THYME CAFE AND MARKET 1630 Ocean +52-646-156-8453
APPETIZERS
Kale, and Lemon Chiles p. 84 Park Blvd., Santa Monica, CA; 310-399- LAJA Carr. Ensenada-Tecate Km. 83, Valle
Charred Bread with 8800; thymecafeandmarket.com de Guadalupe; +52-646-155-2556;
Ricotta and Cherry p. 73 MISCELLANEOUS, ZAYTINYA 701 Ninth St. NW, Washington, lajamexico.com
Salsa p. 84 Nagaland House Ribs CONDIMENTS D.C.; 202-638-0800; zaytinya.com LA LUPITA TACO & MEZCAL Calle Jos
with Tamarind Glaze Beet and Radish STARTERS pp. 1732 Mara Morelos, Centro, San Jos del Cabo;
Chickpea Sundal p. 97 +52-624-688-3926
p. 97 Pickles p. 90 BASILISK 820 NE 27th Ave., Portland, OR;
Htipiti Spread p.12 503-234-7151; basiliskpdx.com LOS ORIGINALES TACOS DE PESCADO
Soy-Basted Pork Charred Tomatillo CAMP COMFORT 601 Water St., Comfort, Av. Benito Jurez y Av. Gastlum, Ensenada
BEVERAGES Chops with Corn Chermoula p. 84 TX; 830-995-2356; camp-comfort.com MONTE XANIC Francisco Zarco, Valle
Afternoon Siesta p. 86 Coconut-Lime COW TIPPING CREAMERY 4715 S. Lamar de Guadalupe; +52-555-545-1111;
and Poblano Salad montexanic.com.mx
Beers Knees p. 87 Dressing p.110 Blvd. Sunset Valley, TX; 512-904-0033;
p. 72 cowtippingcreamery.com NORTICO 3107 Av. Emilio Carranza,
Blackberry Collins PASTA Cucumber Raita with EMMER & RYE 51 Rainey St., Suite 110; Tijuana; +52-664-611-0589
p. 84 Black Mustard and Austin; 512-366-5530; emmerandrye.com RANCHO PESCADERO Camino a la Playa,
Summer Squash and Cilantro p. 94 Todos los Santos; +52-910-300-8891;
Chile-Salt Michelada FOSTER SUNDRY 215 Knickerbocker Ave.,
Basil Pasta p. 40 Brooklyn; 718-569-8426; fostersundry.com ranchopescadero.com
p. 87 Garlicky Harissa p. 85 TACOS CORONA Av. Espinoza y Benito
POULTRY FRESAS 915 N. Lamar Blvd., Austin;
Cowboy Shandy p. 87 Garlicky Peanut 512-428-5077; fresaschicken.com Jurez, Ensenada; +52-646-188-0316
Baked Chicken Dressing p.110 GREEN DOT STABLES 2200 W. TACOS FLORESTA 485 Av. Floresta,
Grapefruit Radler p. 87 with Tomatoes and Green Chutney with Lafayette Blvd., Detroit; 313-962-5588; Ensenada
Top Banana p. 86 Olives p. 46 greendotstables.com TACOS GEORGES 85 Heroico Colegio
Chaat Masala p. 94 Militar, Centro, Todos Santos;
SALADS JUAN LUIS 1503 King St., Charleston, SC;
Chicken Spiedie Grill-Roasted 843-323-9131; workshopcharleston.com +52-612-102-8768
Chopped Salad with Skewers with Italian Pineapple p. 20 JUNES ALL DAY 1722 S. Congress Ave., TACOS ROSSY Carr. Transpeninsular
Shallot Vinaigrette, Dressing p. 73 Kashmiri Hot Sauce Austin; 512-416-1722; junesallday.com Km. 33, San Jos del Cabo;
Feta, and Dill p. 84 LEWIS BARBECUE 464 N. Nassau St., +52-624-142-6755
Chile-and-Yogurt- p. 94 TAQUERIA FRANC Calle 8 y Blvd. Snchez
Charleston, SC; 843-805-9500;
Nectarines and Marinated Grilled Miso-Mustard lewisbarbecue.com Taboada, Tijuana; +52-667-142-2955
Peaches with Chicken p. 94 Dressing p.110 LITTLE DAMAGE 700 S. Spring St., Los VENA CAVA Rancho San Marcos, Valle
Lavender Syrup p.14 Kids Chicken Katsu Angeles; 213-628-3443; littledamage.com de Guadalupe; +52-646-156-8053;
Sesame-Ginger venacavawine.com
LORD STANLEY 2065 Polk St., San
MAIN COURSES p. 38 Dressing p. 36 Francisco; 415-872-5512; lordstanleysf.com VERDE Y CREMA 3034 Calle Orizaba,
SEAFOOD VEGE TARIAN DESSERTS MAGPIES SOFTSERVE 2660 Griffith Tijuana; +52-664-681-2366;
Chile-Lime Clams with Park Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-486-7094; verdeycrema.com
Grilled Fattoush Apricot and Almond
Tomatoes and Grilled
magpiessoftserve.com FLAVOR EXPLOSION pp. 8897
with Halloumi and Galette p. 48 MR. DONAHUES 203 Mott St., NYC; GUNPOWDER 11 Whites Row, London;
Bread p. 72 Eggplant p. 72 Grilled Apricots with 646-850-9480; mrdonahues.com +44-20-7426-0542; gunpowderlondon.com
Grilled Garlic-and- Almond Cream and OLMSTED 659 Vanderbilt Ave., Brooklyn; FOREST TO TABLE pp. 98103
Black-Pepper Shrimp VEGETABLES, 718-552-2610; olmstednyc.com ACHILLES HEEL 180 West St., Brooklyn;
SIDE DISHES Fregolotta p. 85
p. 94 RACHELS GINGER BEER For locations, 347-987-3666; achillesheelnyc.com
Nectarines and go to rachelsgingerbeer.com CAMINO 3917 Grand Ave., Oakland, CA;
Grilled Scallops with Chopped Salad with
Peaches with Lavender ROCKAWAY BEACH SURF CLUB 510-547-5035; caminorestaurant.com
Creamed Corn p.10 Shallot Vinaigrette, Syrup p.14 302 Beach 87 St., Rockaway Beach, NY; CAMPFIRE 2725 State St., Carlsbad, CA;
Salmon with Hot Feta, and Dill p. 84 rockawaybeachsurfclub.com 760-637-5121; thisiscampfire.com
Green Beans and SALAZAR 2490 Fletcher Dr., Los Angeles; COQUETA Pier 5, the Embarcadero, San
Sauce Vinaigrette and salazarla.com
Pickled Veg p. 42 Cucumbers with Francisco; 415-704-8866; coquetasf.com
TARTINE COOKIES AND CREAM THE DABNEY 122 Blagden Alley NW,
Snapper with Blistered Miso Dressing p. 44 FOR NUTRITIONAL Tartine Manufactory, 595 Alabama St., Washington, D.C.; 202-450-1015;
Bean Salad and Chile Grilled Mustard INFO FOR THE San Francisco; tartinemanufactory.com thedabney.com
Vinegar p. 73 Broccoli p. 90 RECIPES IN THIS TURKEY AND THE WOLF 739 Jackson DEATH & TAXES 105 W. Hargett St.,
ISSUE, GO TO Ave., New Orleans; 504-218-7428; Raleigh, NC; 984-242-0218;
MEAT Marinated Red turkeyandthewolf.com
BONAPPETIT.COM ac-restaurants.com/death-taxes
Grilled Bone-In Peppers with Garlic /RECIPES VAN LEEUWEN ARTISAN ICE CREAM For EL CHE BAR 845 W. Washington Blvd.,
Rib Eye p. 85 and Marjoram p. 85 locations, go to vanleeuwenicecream.com Chicago; 312-265-1130; elchebarchicago.com
WIZ BANG BAR 126 SW Second Ave., ELSKE 1350 W. Randolph St., Chicago;
Portland, OR; 503-384-2150; 312-733-1314; elskerestaurant.com
saltandstraw.com/wizbangbar
KEST 271 Bleecker St., NYC;
CITY GUIDES: BAJA pp. 5258 212-243-1500; kestepizzeria.com
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112 J U N E 2 0 17
 T H E L AS T B I T E

David Sedaris
Whats your cooking
philosophy?
D O N T
W O R RY, H E S
N O T H AV I N G
RUBBER
DUCKIES FOR
DINNER.

THE VITALS

Hometown
Raleigh, NC
Number of
books authored
10
Sample prefame
meal
Omelet with
rice in it
Hasnt eaten
chocolate since
The fifth grade
Because
It gives him
a headache

ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON

When it comes to shortcomings in the kitchen, its not that David Sedaris
is incapable, its just that he doesnt care. When I cook something, I want
to put it in the oven, and I want to take a bath, explains the best-selling
author and humorist. Then I want to get out of the bathtub 25 minutes
later, and I want it to be ready. I dont want to stir anything. Fortunately,
Sedariswhose new book, Theft by Finding, is a collection of his hilar-
iously scattershot diary entries from 1977 to 2002knows an expert:
his longtime partner, Hugh Hamrick. Hamrick likes to grill in the kitchen
fireplace of their home in West Sussex, England, where his specialties
range from cte de boeuf to fish kebabs. And what fish makes for the best
hearth kebab? Answering on the phone, Sedaris pauses to use a lifeline:
Hugh, what kind of fish do you put in the kebabs? Im talking to this
fellow about my technique, he says, laughing. Its all in the knees and
the wrists. Thats how I feel about it. D A V I D W A L T E R S

114 J U N E 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY TO M S C H I E R L I T Z