Kimono fabrics and decoration techniques

The type of fabric used for a kimono makes all the difference to its formality and beauty. This page can help you
identify the fabric and type of decoration of your kimono, or to help you when buying one.

Weaves

rinzu chirimen kinsha

glossy damask type fabric with a crepe with wrinkle effect (threads smooth crepe
woven pattern are twisted whilst weaving)
Tango chirimen - chirimen from the
Tango area of Kyoto

ro
a.k.a. leno, sheer weave, summer
weight, horizontally striped effect
tate-ro - ro with the stripes running
vertically (i.e. parallel with the
selvedge)
omeshi meisen
densely flat woven pattern threads pre-dyed into large motifs,
sheeny silk, rather retro, most
popular in 40s/50s
natsu-meisen - sheer, stiff meisen for
summer wear

sha momi sukashi

stiff open weave gauze very lightweight silk, semi sheer, sheer fabric with woven solid pattern
Usomono - catch-all term for sheer usually found as a lining in antique
summery fabrics kimono
shioze tsudzure fukurashi-ori
tightly woven smooth fabric with a tapestry like woven pattern with woven pattern with a raised, knobbly
slight moire effect vertical lines effect

sakiori kinran tsumugi

cut strips of fabric woven into fabric twill weave with gold threads woven woven from rougher/raw silk from
like a rag rug in in one direction cocoons, textured feel

habutae shusu nuitori shishou

smooth lightweight tightly woven silk silk satin imitation embroidery woven
technique

nishijin
brocade

Common kimono fibres

mosurin - wool
silk
cotton
synthetic
asa - generic term for hemp or hemp like fabrics
taima - hemp
choma - ramie
ama - linen
jinken - rayon
Decoration techniques

yuzen kasuri shibori

refined hand dye form where areas specifically japanese ikat technique small dot form of tie-dye - highly
are reserved by paste whilst being mainly on wool or cotton regarded
dyed

kanoko sashiko sashiko

regular allover dappled shibori form of decorative quilting running form of decorative quilting running
stitch, often white on indigo stitch often sandwiching old fabrics
together

bokashi bingata sagara

fading colour dip-dyeing/airbrush intricately stencilled with white French knot embroidery
like technique broken lines around designs
aizome katazome roketsuzome
traditional indigo dyed wax batik with characteristic 'veins'
routataki - sprinkled wax resist

surihaku urushi kinsai

gold or silver leaf design applied in lacquered thread foil applique
stencilled sheets
kinpaku - solid gold leaf

kinkoma rakkan sumi-e

couched gold thread, usually for artist's or designer's mark watercolour painting effect, usually
outlining motifs monochrome

shishou/shishuu/shisyu Pente
general term for embroidery painted (often seen on black obi)

gushi-nui
small decorative white top stitching
usually seen on kurotomesode