The complete guide to the

Three Peaks Editor-in-chief Simon Ingram

Editor Oli Reed
Art editor Louise Parker
Writers Charles Hadfield, Vicky How, Simon Ingram,
Claire Maxted, Oli Reed and Ben Weeks
Photographer Tom Bailey
Illustrators Jeremy Ashcroft and Louise Parker

Managing director Kim Slaney

Group managing director Rob Munro-Hall

Printing PCP
Distribution Frontline (01733) 555161

Front cover main image: Ben Nevis Mountain Track (Viktor Cap/Alamy)
inset (L-R): Ben Nevis (Cliff Green/Alamy) Scafell Pike
(GTaylor_images/Alamy) and Snowdon (Tom Bailey)
This page illustrations by Jeremy Ashcroft
Back cover all images by Tom Bailey except top left (Keith Fergus/Alamy)
and bottom left (James Osmond/Alamy)

Published by Bauer Consumer Media Ltd. No part of The Complete Guide to

the Three Peaks may be reproduced in any form in whole or in part without
prior permission of the publisher. While every reasonable care is taken to
ensure accuracy, the publisher is not responsible for any errors or omissions.
The publisher recognises all copyrights and trademarks. ISSN 20577524

FROM THE MAKERS OF

MAGAZINE
Media House, Lynch Wood, Peterborough PE2 6EA
Welcome
Your guide to climbing the highest peaks in Scotland, England and Wales
his very special issue from the makers of Trail most straightforward, most exciting and challenging

T
magazine is dedicated to everyone who loves
mountains and adventure. Over the next 100 pages
youll find all the information and inspiration you
need to climb Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon
the highest mountains in Scotland, England and
Wales safely and responsibly, however you choose
to do it. Whether youve climbed hundreds of peaks
or have never set foot on a hill, well show you the
routes to each summit. And if you are climbing
the mountains as part of the National Three Peaks
Challenge, well give you advice on the best gear, tell
you how to coax your car through three countries
and more than 450 miles, help you get fit ahead of
the challenge and give you essential information from
where to buy your pre-walk flapjacks to where to
enjoy a celebratory pint. We hope you enjoy it!

Ben Nevis (1345m).

Tom Bailey

INTRODUCTION 6
What is the Three Peaks Challenge?

WHAT KIND OF THREE-

PEAKER ARE YOU? 8
Take our quiz to discover which routes
would best suit your ability and experience

BEN NEVIS 12 SCAFELL PIKE 344 Descending from Snowdons summit.

Tom Bailey
Your ultimate guide to Britains highest peak It may be the smallest of the Three Peaks,
1345 metres of pure Highland muscle but possibly the most complicated to climb

MOUNTAIN TRACK 16 HOLLOW STONES 38

Only the ill-informed regard this popular Possibly not the most satisfying ascent,
path as an easy route up Ben Nevis but this is the shortest way to the top

CMD ARTE 20
A famously dramatic way to the roof of
Scotland on a superb Grade 1 ridgeline
LEDGE ROUTE 24
A rough, rocky scramble thats the toughest
way a hillwalker can conquer Ben Nevis
REMAINING ROUTES 29
Two stunning ascents from the green
folds of Glen Nevis on The Bens quiet side
DANGER SPOTS 30
From Five Finger Gully to the featureless
plateau, this is a guide to the mountains
most troublesome features
COMMON QUESTIONS 32
Will my phone work? Where do I park?
How do I hire a guide? The answers are here
CORRIDOR ROUTE 42
A longer and more challeging ascent that
twists through the heart of the Lake District
COCKLY PIKE RIDGE 48
This hidden gem is the longest continuous
scramble in England, topping out on Ill Crag
REMAINING ROUTES 53
Wonderful approaches from the valleys
of Langdale, Eskdale and Borrowdale
DANGER SPOTS 54
If youve never heard of Mickledore or Piers
Gill, youll ind this annotated aerial photo
of Scafell Pikes danger spots invaluable
COMMON QUESTIONS 56
Can I take my dog? What's the best pub?
How hard is it? Get the info you need here

4
A cloud inversion below the 978m summit of Scafell Pike. Looking across to the Mamores ridge from the top of Ben Nevis.
David Forster, Alamy Tom Bailey

Scafell Pike (978m). Snowdon (1085m).

Tom Bailey Tom Bailey

SNOWDON 58 YOUR THREE PEAKS TOOLKIT 80

This sprawling, spiky masterpiece of a peak
has the capacity to thrill like no other 1926: A CHALLENGE THE DRIVING
IS BORN 82 CHALLENGE 92
PYG TRACK 62 Words of historical wisdom from the three Theres the small matter of 455 tarmac miles
plucky chaps who invented the challenge on this challenge, so start planning now!
A legendary mountain pass, two pristine
glacial lakes... Welsh hillwalking at its best
5 GOLDEN RULES 86 ALTERNATIVE
SOUTH RIDGE 66 Leave no trace; drive responsibly; schedule CHALLENGES 94
A sure-ire way to avoid the crowds sensibly; keep numbers down; put safety Why not catch a train between each peak?
and explore Snowdon via a glorious ridge irst. Three Peaks Challenge sorted! Or cycle? Or sail? Or go to Yorkshire instead?

CRIB GOCH 70 KIT LIST 88 DIY THREE PEAKS

If you like grappling with rock and crave Do you know gloves from gaiters and CHALLENGE 96
dizzying exposure, this is your route compasses from Compeed? If not, read on... Feeling really adventurous? Then choose
an alternative trio of mountains. Here are
REMAINING ROUTES 74 GET MOUNTAIN-FIT 90 8,000 options to get you started...

Walkers are spoilt for choice on Snowdon
heres seven more angles to explore it from
DANGER SPOTS 76
With a train track, vertical clif faces and
a spiders web of ridgelines all leading to
its summit, Snowdon is full of hazards
Time to heave yourself of the sofa and whip
yourself into shape for the three big ascents 10 TIPS FOR
FIRST-TIME WALKERS 98
If your Three Peaks Challenge is the start
of your hillwalking career, heres some
handy advice for irst-time
mountaineers...

COMMON QUESTIONS 78
How long does it take? Whats the weather
like? Are there bins? And more... answered

5
Showboating on the
summit of Snowdon,
the last peak of the
challenge for anyone
going north to south.
TOM BAILEY

What is
the Three Peaks
Challenge?
Your introduction to a grand adventure spanning
three countries... and the highest point of a nation.

6
T
he national Three Peaks Challenge is
the practice of climbing the highest
mountains in Scotland, England and
Wales in a single, continuous push.
The most popular way to tackle it is in
24 hours but increasingly people are
BEN NEVIS
splitting it over the still-challenging but 1345m
less frantic three days, or even a leisurely
week to allow them to enjoy these special places to the full.
West Highlands
We are of course talking about Ben Nevis the highest
mountain in the British Isles (1345m/4,411ft) in the
page 12
West Highlands of Scotland; Scafell Pike (978m/3,209ft)
in the English Lake District; and the mighty Snowdon
(1085m/3,560ft), the celebrated centrepiece of Snowdonia
National Park in north Wales. To climb all three requires
good basic fitness, stamina and fortitude in the face
SCAFELL
of sometimes testing mountain weather:
from burning sun to frigid wind.
PIKE
Complete the challenge and you will 978m
have climbed over 3,000 vertical metres Lake District
or the equivalent of 30 Big Bens,
10 Eiffel Towers or 1,150 domestic page 34
staircases in three countries.
It is estimated up to 30,000 people
undertake the Three Peaks Challenge

every year between June and October.
Many do it for charity, and many for
their own personal satisfaction. This
popularity has also led to the need to
tackle the peaks in a way that is responsible considerate
of the fragile ecosystems on the mountains and the
communities that live around them.
You can reach all three summits without being

a mountaineer, though their terrain can be
inhospitable, their weather can be extreme and
their severity can take even experienced walkers
SNOWDON
by surprise. Choosing the route to the top that best 1085m
suits your skill, whether youre a first-time three
peaker or an experienced hillwalker looking
Snowdonia
for a challenge, is what this guide is all about.
Well also give you the best practical tips to
page 58
make your challenge run smoothly from the best
food stops to the smartest places to park and also
give you a few thousand alternatives (literally)
should you decide to go off-piste with your challenge!

IN THIS GUIDE YOU WILL FIND...

TOM BAILEY

How to choose your routes up Maps and route guides How to ensure your challenge
Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon for all three mountains. has minimal impact
from beginner challenge walks on clear Tips for planning your on each mountain and
paths to satisfying ridge walks and own Three Peaks Challenge. its surrounding
demanding scrambles that show of communities.
Alternatives to the
each mountain at its most rugged.
24-hour challenge, including
Advice on gear youll need and the Nothing beats
tackling the trio over hatching the
big questions you need to to ask before three days, by public perfect plan.
planning your ascent of Ben Nevis, transport and even
Scafell Pike and Snowdon. selecting diferent
peaks to climb!

7
 What kind of
THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN
THREE
The Three Peaks Challenge doesnt have to be done over 24 hours, and there are plenty of
IVE EVER CLIMBED IS
None, but I like challenge.
A Ive done a 5k charity run...
Cadair Idris, Ben Lomond, Coniston
B Old Man and some others...
Ive summited at least one of the
C Three Peaks already and enjoy
discovering routes on the Munros,
Wainwrights and Welsh 3000ers.
8
MY MOUNTAIN GEAR
CUPBOARD CONTAINS
Whatever comfortable kit I can
A lay my hands on at the last minute.
A breathable waterproof jacket plus a
B pair of 3-season boots I clean regularly.
Some scrambling boots I use for
C technical stuf, a group shelter,
crampons and ice axe for winter walking,
plus a swish down jacket.
WHAT KIND OF MAPPING
DO YOU PREFER?
Google Maps. I keep meaning to
A learn how to read a proper map...
The relevant OS or Harvey map,
B usually in a waterproof map case.
Printed and laminated sections of
C map from online software. I carry
a paper map and GPS in my rucksack.
 The key to an enjoyable Three Peaks Challenge
is sensible planning and picking an itinerary that
suits your group. The picture below shows walkers
on the Ben Nevis Mountain Track (see page 16).
PETER CHISHOLM / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEAKER
routes to pick on each mountain. Take this quiz to discover which options suit you best.
HAVE YOU EVER
SCRAMBLED?
Not oicially... and I'm not entirely
A sure what scrambling is.
A little. Ive climbed up Gordale Scar
B in Malham and crossed Striding Edge
on Helvellyn in the Lake District.
C Ive ticked Sharp Edge, Tryfan and
Bristly Ridge, and Im doing the
Aonach Eagach in Scotland this summer.
THE CAF ON THE TOP
are you?
WHY DO YOU CLIMB
OF SNOWDON IS MOUNTAINS?
To push my physical endurance and
A Brilliant! Nothing like a soft drink
A for an exciting new challenge.
to perk you up on a mountaintop.
Because I love being in high places
B
Annoying. After a hard walk up B and absorbing the atmosphere.
Id prefer the summit to myself.
To explore the wilderness and
C
Irrelevant. It doesnt open in winter, C
so Ive never been inside. test my limits of fear and skill!

IF YOU ANSWERED...
...mostly As
Youre not alone. In fact
youre the most common
type of Three Peaks
Challenger. You dont
have much mountain
experience, and this may
even be your irst ever
time in the hills. Wed
recommend sticking to the
less technical routes and
travelling with a local or
experienced guide. If you
must do it in 24 hours
get it, be respectful of
the environment and
local communities,
and enjoy yourself!
Try the...
CHALLENGE
ROUTES
...mostly Bs
Youre clearly a seasoned Youre keen, arent you?
mountain walker and likely
to be a Trail magazine
reader. You know your way
around the hills and should
be aiming for the quieter,
more intricate and
rewarding routes up
Britain's three national
high points. Youd do well
to approach the challenge
over three days so you can
savour each summit for the
mountain wonder that it is
and savour some of the
great pubs and hostelries
around these terriic peaks!
Try the...
CLASSIC
ROUTES
...mostly Cs
You dont need us to tell
you how capable you are
in the hills. But what
might surprise and delight
you about these three
mountains is that they
can seriously challenge
an experienced scrambler,
despite their reputations
for overcrowding and ease.
Let us show you how the
Three Peaks Challenge can
push you to your limits!
Try the...
SCRAMBLING
ROUTES

9
 Choose the best
The following 60 pages are dedicated to Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and
Snowdon and the best routes to climb them by. Use the key below for
a quick guide to the challenges you'll face on each route, then select
the ascent that best suits your level of experience and ability.

Difficulty ratings explained

 STRENUOUSNESS
How tired will this route make me?
The route times are based on estimates of 4km
per hour, plus 30 min for every 300m of ascent,
with another hour for rests every 8 hours.
The triangles give you an at-a-glance guide:
Quickie Short day Full day
Very full day Endurance test

NAVIGATION
How tricky is this route to follow?
Clear, well-marked paths in a valley or
following a linear feature
Valley, moor or mountain paths that are
normally clear but low cloud could afect your
ability to follow
Almost pathless in valleys, less clear
paths on moors and mountains, but generally
following clearly deined hill shapes
Some paths but not clear, not well
used or some confusion possible
Open moorland, mountain plateau or
crag without paths. Route confusion likely and
close attention to navigation needed at all times

TECHNICALITY WALKS
How diicult will I find it?
Easy walking in gentle countryside
Unthreatening slopes with no exposure
Typical Lakes fellwalk rough,
rocky ground, bogs and steeper slopes
Steep, rough ground and scree.
Some exposure
Hands required for at least one move
airy and steep throughout

TECHNICALITY
SCRAMBLES/CLIMBS
Grade 1 scramble Grade 2 scramble
Grade 3 scramble
Grade 3S scramble or Dif climb
V Dif climb

BEFORE YOU GO
If youre likely to encounter snow or ice on your
walk you need to take precautions. You MUST
have ice axe, crampons and the skills to use them
and navigate in winter, and you should check
weather forecasts and avalanche forecasts
(www.sais.gov.uk) before heading into
the mountains. Visit Mountain Weather
Information Service www.mwis.org.uk

10
 Descending from the summit of
Snowdon towards Llyn Llydaw
and the Y Lliwedd ridge.
STUART BLACK/ALAMY

routes for you...

WHAT
TIME OF YEAR
SHOULD I ATTEMPT
EACH MOUNTAIN?
Remember that mountains aren't like
lowlands all three peaks can exhibit
full winter conditions (snow, ice, whiteout)
throughout spring, hold snow well into summer
and may require special skills to negotiate.
For this reason most people tackle the
mountains between late June and
September but always check local
weather information (particularly
for Ben Nevis) no matter
what time of year.

11
BEN NEVIS

Britains
highest
mountain:
1345m/
4,411ft

12

en Nevis has a
B
curious condition.
Every person in the
street knows it by
name. And if that
name is delivered
with a nonplussed
expression you
may have found someone who knows
Ben Nevis not only by name but by its
popular reputation: a motorway, a fiesta
of have-a-go heroes, its summit a kind of
peculiar ceremonial scrapheap for feats
craving a highest clause to validate them
in the record books. Maybe these folks
are walkings answer to a splinter party
taking a stance against populism; or
(more likely) theyve had a bad day on the
The brutish outline of Ben Nevis
rises above Fort William.
CLIFF GREEN / ALAMY
Mountain Track theyd rather forget.
Either way, forgive them. Its expected.
A peak as famous as Ben Nevis, like
many things of wide appeal, is trendy
to dislike. But like we said, its a curious
condition. Curious because to anyone
who has merely a passing grasp of what
really makes a mountain, Ben Nevis is
absolutely bloody stupendous. Dramatic,
labyrinthine, transcendent and soaring,
devious and thoroughly terrifying, and
as with the best of anything utterly of
its own ilk, an Alpine freak ripped from
somewhere else entirely and dropped,
wriggling, onto Scotland. Consider the
way it looks, feels and behaves, and the
stunts, fanfare and unjustifiably eroded
reputation fade to mist and Ben Nevis
13

The southern side is stripped raw to what it inarguably is: Britains
of Ben Nevis that
greatest mountain, bar none. The fact that its also
so few people see,
with Glen Nevis the highest is merely a happy topographical accident.
and the Water Accident or not, consequently a lot of people
of Nevis below. climb this peak. The word busy could be bent
KEITH FERGUS into truth for what everyone knows as the Mountain
/ ALAMY STOCK
PHOTO
Track, a tightrope of terrain ascending the path
of least resistance up Ben Neviss rump. But this
mountain is absolutely enormous: to flavour the
whole with the taste of one sliver just doesnt make
sense. And never has it been more true that getting
to the top is merely a technicality: Ben Nevis is a
mountain you have to absorb.
The more you get to know Ben Nevis (or, more
smartly, The Ben, as youll know it by this point)
respect doesnt diminish, it grows. There isnt a British
mountaineer alive who doesnt consider it shrine-like.
Those who have scaled the worlds highest peaks and
sloughed frost-chewed up its hardest rock walls still
reserve respect for The Ben. And not sentimental
respect either, such as you might apply to Trafalgar
Square, The Rolling Stones or Bruce Forsyths dancing.
Ben Nevis was, is and will always be, a thing of awe.
For starters, look how the damn thing is built. Its a
monstrous contradiction, a geological Incredible Hulk.
From some angles its a lump: a crescent of long, soft
flanks descending from a pitch-flat summit into valleys
of stomach-crumpling depth. To the south, where the
longest slope in Britain makes landfall, following the
Water of Nevis even a few miles upstream will put
you among some of the wildest, darkest terrain in
Scotland. From these southern aspects Ben Nevis is
Ben Nevis looms a thing of huge bulk: impressive and disquieting, yet
out of the distant buffoonish. But dont trust this impression; from here
shadows on the and from the angle most walkers sneak up it youre
long walk-in from
what is known as
contemplating a mountain with its back turned.
the North Face Its probably the valley east of the village of
car park. This is Spean Bridge that offers the most faithful view of
perhaps the most the mountains defining character. Even then, the
dramatic angle
to approach the
meat of Ben Neviss north face is walled by neighbour
mountain from, Carn Mor Dearg, though hints can be had above its
beginning with 4,000ft ramparts of what lies beyond: dark flutes of
a steady ascent
rock, a sheer edge hard against the skyline. To get into
through thick
woodland. its shadow and really feel your neck hairs rise, you
KEITH FERGUS have to enter the bowels of Coire Leis. Here, youre
/ ALAMY STOCK under the pounce of the north face good and proper,
PHOTO and the ribs and trenches of the biggest, hardest
climbing routes in these isles leer above you: Tower
Ridge, Point Five Gully, Orion Face a frozen rogues
gallery that has stood still while mountaineerings
most glorious and horrible histories have spidered
across it. Approached by the sublime Carn Mor
Dearg (CMD) Arte, The Bens contradiction is
revealed no longer a lump, but an angry sharkfin
of rock punching skyward.
And once up, what a surreal place to be. Dubbed
the Plateau of Storms by the hardy Victorians who
lived in the pummelled, now ruinous observatory atop
it or simply Hell by the English Romantic poet
John Keats the summit of Ben Nevis treads a
delicious, dastardly line between the demure and the
deceitfully dangerous: a place constantly mithered
with weird weather, cut-throat navigation and a
temperature with a sub-zero year-round average.
While largely flat, it collapses with no warning
into the biggest drops in the land. In winter, the
cornices that overhang these drops can be completely
imperceptible so stray too close to the edge for a
breather, and you might be eating your Peperami
stood on nothing but inches of snow meringue and
half a vertical mile of dead air.
Its around the summit that all the routes converge
and your company becomes eclectic: climbers, day
walkers, charity challengers, backpackers and those
for whom summiting The Ben is the pinnacle of their
physical achievements and a worthy and often hard-
won one it is. Around you rusts the ruins of centuries
of endeavour: a strange frame-like implement, a
crumbling turret and an aluminium shelter, all giving
the summit the air of a kind of post-apocalyptic
playground. But filling your senses is the cavernous
sky above you, the feeling of collective elation at being
on the roof of our most historic piece of mountain
architecture. Pick a quiet moment on a fine day, then
ascend alone the steps to the trig point. Look east, and
in a straight line theres nobody higher than you until
Russia. West, Quebec. And even then, in a personality
contest, youd still be on the winning peak. Enjoy that
feeling. Smile. Savour this calm moment. Then get
down before Ben Nevis gets angry. Because, like all
monstrous contradictions, you really wouldnt like it
when its angry. Words Simon Ingram

14
 Ben Nevis: a miscellany
Every schoolkid knows its the UKs highest; but heres
some less likely lore about this Scottish whopper In a typical year the summit is
battered by 261gales and is covered
Strange questions posed to Fort William Tourist Information include What time does in cloud for nine out of ten days.
Ben Nevis open?, Where can we buy tickets for the mountain?, Whats the postcode for the
top of Ben Nevis so that I can set my cars satnav system? and our particular favourite: The average temperature at the summit
Where can I buy the midge cream Mel Gibson used when ilming Braveheart? is 1 degree below freezing.

75%
l
are m ters of al

know g
n as
si n
ade u

k).
The Ben Nevis comes from

Trac
summit ar the Gaelic beinn
e qu

(also
Pony
of Ben Nevis After witnessing a nibheis, which either
t h re

receives more Brocken spectre from the summit, means malicious

Ben
rack
th or
ately

than double the Scottish physicist Charles Thomson Rees Wilson mountain or
ain T
f T he

annual rainfall of attempted to recreate the efect in his lab. In the mountain
st Pa
roxim

of Heaven,
ount

nearby Fort William. process he invented the cloud chamber (used

nts o

ouri

to detect ionising radiation), for which he was depending on

App

t he M
asce

who you ask.

t he T

awarded the Nobel Prize for physics.

Either is apt.

On a good day views from the summit can extend to over

190km (120 miles) and include parts of Northern Ireland.
...takes its name from

GARDYLOO GULLY
Water from the Allt a The summit shelter built on the top of the ruins of
SCOTTISH METEOROLOGICAL SOCIETY

To amuse themselves,
Mhuilinn stream the observatory is the highest man-made object in the cry of garde
the staf of the
that lows from Ben the UK. leau! (French for
observatory made an
Neviss northern watch out for the
al fresco ping-pong
corrie is used in the water!), a phrase
table out of snow.
production of whisky formerly used in
at the Ben Nevis Scottish cities as
distillery, one of the a warning when
Unusual objects that have made it to the summit
oldest licensed householders threw
include a Model T Ford, a wheelbarrow, a barrel of
distilleries their slops out of a
beer, a piano, a temporary Travelodge bedroom
in Scotland. window into the
and a pole dancer complete with pole.
street. The gullys
top wall was used as
the refuse pit for the
summit observatory.

1771 1818 1892 1990s 2005

The English In the 1990s Lochaber Mountain Rescue
A descent of In 2005 a retired social worker called
The irst ever Romantic poet Team erected two navigation posts on
Tower Ridge in Robin Kevan (known afectionately
recorded ascent John Keats the summit plateau to reduce the number
1892 is the earliest as Rob the Rubbish in his home town of
was in 17 August ascended of accidents involving walkers making
documented Llanwrtyd Wells for voluntarily clearing
1771 by botanist Ben Nevis. the perilous decent in poor visibility.
climbing expedition litter from the streets each day) drove to
James Robertson, He likened The posts, regarded by many as an
on The Ben. It was Ben Nevis to start removing rubbish from
who was in the it to Hell. unnecessary man-made intrusion into the
not climbed from the mountain. Media coverage of his
region to collect natural landscape, were subsequently
bottom to top for eforts led to a concerted clean-up of the
specimens. removed and replaced by a series of
another two years. litter being left behind by tourists.
solidly constructed cairns (above).

15
 E N GE R
LL O

UT
CH
BEN NEVIS

E
THE
MOUNTAIN
TRACK
There's no more popular route to the top of Britain than the Ben Nevis
Mountain Track. Heres how to walk it, with a first-timer as your guide.
WORDS VICKY HOW

16

I
ts big, Ben Nevis, Ill give it that. But its kinda
shy too, Britains biggest mountain. Like an
overexcited kid I really, really wanted to see
the top as I set out from Achintee, but no it
stubbornly hid. Then hid some more. Typical.
And it can make you hurt. My still-sleepy
newbie legs inwardly cried as I hit the first steep
section. The plan: hit the Mountain Track,
slog up the first rocky section to the Halfway
Lochan, stop for lunch, then breeze up the
Zigzags to the summit. But it was hot. Four
thousand feet of ascent lay ahead and The Ben,
notorious for its bad weather, was torturing
everyone with burning sun. Clearly a case of
so much good luck, its almost bad.
The Mountain Track isnt the most exciting
way up Ben Nevis. Some might say its a slog.
But it does have its benefits: chiefly the views
back to Fort William, the majestic junction of
Looking down on Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe, also know as the
Halfway Lochan, from high on the western slopes of Ben Nevis.
The Mountain Track (in the foreground) is one of Britains
busiest mountain routes, and isnt without its challenges.
KEITH FERGUS/ALAMY
Lochs Lochy, Arkaig, Eil and Linnhe and the
distant crenellations of the Isle of Skye.
As a path its unmissable in anything but thick
snow which I should add, between November
and June, is by no means a rarity and is about
as well built as a path can be short of adding a
glide-smooth tarmac coating. Its no wonder its
a popular way up.
Once, ponies neighed their way up here,
providing supplies to the observatory staff
stationed at the top during Victorian times, hence
its other name the Pony Track. Today the path
bulges with a mishmash of serious hillwalkers,
ill-prepared afternoon strollers and everything
inbetween. You wont find yourself alone, but
you will at least have an entertaining distraction
from burning thighs, and many moments which
will thoroughly beggar your belief. Picking my
way through a particularly rocky section I was
17
CHALLENGE ROUTE
accessible way of getting to the top of Britain. And dont
mistake straightforward for easy: no matter who you
are, youre still climbing from near-as-dammit sea-level
to over 4,000ft this is very much a mountain track,
and many a hardened walker has been forced to turn
back when the conditions became intolerable. Today,
conditions werent looking in the least bit threatening
but I was still prepared for a sudden about-face.
After an hour and a half the unrelenting steepness
was getting to me. The path was clear to follow but very
rocky. My brain began chanting You wont get to the
top if it stays like this. I ignored it. Then finally the
path began to iron out. Instant relief hit my calves as
The Mountain
Track is well
my confidence upped and I spotted the 2,000ft halfway
constructed and wall, and Lochan Meall an tSuidhe. Then a small
simple to follow in walk to the Zigzags. Scarring across The Ben, theyre
clear weather, but
visible from the ground and a much less brutal trek up
the relentlessness
of the terrain to the summit than the Mountain Tracks lower reaches;
and sheer height but they continue on, then continue on, then on,
of the mountain and on. The lush greenness Id got used to on the
place huge
lower slopes gave way to bigger, more lunar-looking
demands on your
body. Be sure to rocks. And the constant chatter of further down gave
pack the correct way to a silent determination, focussed on the gradient
gear (see page ahead. The bigger rocks to navigate soaked up my
88) and carry
plenty of food concentration, intent as I was on reaching the next mini
and water. horizon and seeing the top. Past the next zig. Look up.
TOM BAILEY Another zag. Look up. Zig. Zag. Look. Pant.
overtaken by a guy powering upwards wearing flip-flops. The last section was tough: I was hot and
Flip-flops! Another bloke was descending in jeans and frustratingly just not quite there. I received several
trainers, chest hair blowing and clutching Co-op carrier Youre nearly there, love offerings from smug
bags. This is central Scotland: but squint and it could descenders; however it didnt help, with every step
almost be Peterborough high street. Almost. through the squid-leg myriad of paths as the top
Route snobbery on Ben Nevis does exist, but it began to plateau off a real effort.
neednt. Yes, the choice of route up does matter but Its here you start to get that real high mountain
they all end up in the same place. And so there has to feeling. Massive, thousand-foot gullies start to line
be something said for the most straightforward, most up either side of the path as your way dips and rises

ROUTE GUIDE

Ben Nevis Mountain Track  Strenuousness VVVV Navigation VVVVV

NN126730 The Ben
1 Nevis Mountain Track
was constructed in 1883
to service the summit
meteorological observatory,
and it follows a steady
gradient to
suit
1 deep-cut gully
the trains of ponies that
brought supplies in the
summer months. From Glen
Nevis it climbs easily across
the hillside then does a loop
around to the Lochan Meall
an t-Suidhe (Halfway
Lochan). This stage
is fairly
straightforward and gets at this point, but once issue so long as you give it a
you warmed up perfectly banked out with snow wide berth, but in descent
with ever-improving views forms a steep, exposed the natural line tends to
providing entertainment traverse. Above the Red force you towards it. Guard
as height is gained. Burn the track settles into against this as the slopes are
a series of zigzags, which convex and steepen rapidly
NN147724 Turn sharp in the lower sections are into crags. The gradient
2 right above the lochan, mostly easy to follow. But eases above Five Finger
and the route soon crosses as height is gained, they Gully until you hit a brief rise
the Red Burn. It is a often drift over with snow. known as McLeans Steep.
NN157713 As the NN161712 If it is clear
3 zigzags start to relent
4 when you hit the
they skirt perilously close summit plateau youll
2 to the edge of Five Finger become aware of the
Gully. In ascent cornices (snow overhangs)
this isnt that ring the north face to
much your left (north). It is worth
of an taking a look over the face as
there are impressive views
of Tower Ridge and the Orion
3 Face. However, you need to
4 keep back from the edges
by a good margin as the
5 cornices often extend

18
 like a bucking bull. You get a huge sense of space up Looking across
first moments on top of Britain. Its a funny route,
Glen Nevis to the
here the final, cindery-grey stretch to the top like the Mountain Track: it offers the best way off in neighbouring
the surface of another world. By this point the choice dodgy weather, great views in descent in good weather peaks of the
of route to the top ceases to matter; everyone gets to but true to legend is accordingly rammed. But Mamores from
the Mountain
become acquainted with the weird, confusing-in-mist sometimes crowds arent a bad thing, and by crowds
Track, with
netherworld of the highest summit plateau in Britain. were talking relative: as far as queues go, youre views stretching
The first sight of the ruinous observatory turret, never going to feel like youre in Tesco. Its worth south-west down
raised trig point and the scattered summiteers around doing once, though, just for the stack of You wont Loch Linnhe.
KEITH FERGUS/
it, and my brain began to erase the difficult bits in my believe what I saw on the hill today stories to ALAMY
memory as it started to accumulate new ones of my astound your friends with.

ROUTE STATS
Distance 14km

Technicality VVV (8 miles)

Total ascent 1400m
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16

Time 7-8 hours

30-40ft over the clif edge,
1 From the summit trig
No.4 Gully Coire na Ciste
Start/inish Achintee,
and if they collapse they point follow a bearing
NN126730
lly

take a good portion of snow of 231 (grid) for 150m

Gu

e
mb

idg

Terrain constructed
.3

with them from the plateau. (164 yards).

rR
Co

lly

Puon
No

Mo mountain path mostly with

Gu

we

Gully
The
ntay

n
To

moderate gradients but

.2
i

Tra
NN166712 The
2 Then turn to a bearing of
No

5 ck
yloo

with the odd steep section

summit is marked Mountai n TPro
acnky Trig. point 282 (grid). This will take
Gard

and an exposed summit

with the observatory ruins, you to the Mountain Track
ully

2 Then turn to a grid plateau ringed with crags

a shelter, cairns and a trig 100m (109 yards) north of
rG

bearing of 282 1.
1 First walk on Maps OS Landranger
ge

point but most of these get the top of Five Finger Gully.
Fin

buried after a heavy winter a grid bearing of (Note: you will need to make (1:50,000) 41; OS Explorer
e
Fiv

and often only the tip of the 231 for 150m allowance for magnetic (1:25,000) 392; Harvey
trig point and the shelter variation.) Once you Superwalker (1:25,000)
remain. Leaving the summit able to navigate without the when snow is lying or re-locate the Mountain Ben Nevis; British
plateau in winter or in poor assistance of the cairns. in poor visibility is this Track, follow your outward Mountain Maps
visibility is particularly The recommended route (see diagram above): route back to Achintee. (1:40,000) Ben Nevis
hazardous. A series of
navigation cairns starting GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Halfway Lochan Ben Nevis Finish
close to the summit trig
1400
point have been constructed 1200
METRES 1000
to help avoid the worst
ABOVE 800
hazards. However, even at SEA 600
1.8m high some have been
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5
200
buried so it is imperative
MILES 0 2 4 6 8
that you are prepared and KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14

19
 SSIC ROU
A

CL

TE
BEN NEVIS

THE CARN MOR

Without doubt the most spectacular walkers route to the
summit of Britain, this spicy ridge unforgettably presents
the vision of Ben Nevis as a jagged rocky giant.
WORDS SIMON INGRAM

20
 The unmistakable outline of Ben Nevis from the
neighbouring peak of Carn Mor Dearg, with the
CMD Arte sweeping up towards The Bens summit.
BEN WEEKS

DEARG ARTE

21
CLASSIC ROUTE
Top left: heading Happily, a glance at the map reveals these letters
into Coire Leis,
indicate nothing more malign than the peak its stuck
with Ben Nevis
to the right and to. A cone of brown rubble with lanky ridges to the
Carn Mor Dearg east and west, if Carn Mor Dearg was next to any
to the left. other mountain it would be a significant catch in itself.
PETER
MACFARLANE
But the visage of Ben Nevis from its 4,012ft top is an
obscene distraction. And with the ridge of the CMD
Arte as your staircase, a breathtaking walk-in means
Top right: starting this most impressive side to Britains biggest mountain
the ascent of is yours well before you hit 4,000ft.
Carn Mor Dearg,
with Ben Nevis There are a couple of ways to access this scintillating
watching over. route to the roof of Britain. The logical approach is
TOM BAILEY from the North Face car park, or you could set off from
Glen Nevis and traverse around from the halfway
Lochan Meall an-t Suidhe. Either way you are treated
to the visually fascinating rock show of the north face
itself. Here, this thing that is Ben Nevis becomes a
crag-fanged mountain walled by some of Britains most
impressive chisellings. Its like half the mountain has
fallen down. Most choose to bypass entering the valley
of Coire Leis itself, instead taking the high route up
Carn Beag Dearg (shown right). But if you want an
intrepid diversion that gets personal with the crags of
the face, theres nothing to stop you wandering into
the valley for a nosey. Theres a boulder about half a
kilometre into the shadow of the face that makes a
The CMD Arte is classed as a Grade 1
scramble, and in fine conditions its
the perfect route for experienced
and adventurous walkers.
TOM BAILEY
22
fine spot to stop, have a packet of crisps and gawp at
the show of fine-ribbed, naked rock, which becomes
more edgy the deeper into the valley you venture. Look
right when you get to the famous CIC Hut and its like
being in a museum exhibit. Castle Ridge. Tower Ridge.
Orion Face. And straight ahead sharpening the edge of
the south wall of the corrie, the CMD Arte. For those
in Coire Leis its now a sharp haul up the side of Carn
Mor Dearg, where you can look down on the arte. It
drops from its parent peak and bows upward to meet
The Bens upper reaches like a slack sail to a mast.
From here chief among its difficulties appears a section
about 100m long, where the ridge bottoms out over
Coire Leis. Here the crest sharpens, its walls laddered
with vertical striations that give it the look of a very
large comb. Thatll be the difficult bit, I thought.
There had to be a difficult bit. Its Ben Nevis.
The CMD. Arte. .
So what was it like? For my experience on the arte,
Ive chosen a word: comfortable. Thats not to say that
given a high wind and a bit of ice I would have used the
same word. But it was wider and less exposed than Id
expected, with boulders providing plenty of crampon-
scarred rock surfaces and edges to handrail along if
needs be. In the event, needs didnt, and I enjoyed a
stress-free meander along the arte towards the final
steep shot onto The Ben.
It seems a long way up onto
the summit from the end of
the arte, through a boulder-
field launching unremittingly
upwards. Keeping a wary eye
to the right where the cliffs
of the Orion Face offered a
not-particularly-desirable
2,000ft of free fall after
20 minutes or so, there was
no more up. I was on top of
Britain and, all of a sudden,
had company. The CMD
route for me is the perfect
compromise: fun, tricky yet
achievable, and accompanied
all the way by the finest
view of Ben Nevis there is.
Challenging. Marvellous.
Doable.
 ROUTE GUIDE
Ben Nevis CMD ARTE
 Strenuousness VVVV
NN145763 At the far
1 end of the North Face
car park a track and then
path lead up through the
trees to connect with the
Allt a Mhuilinn path beside
a dam/water intake.
NN148750 The new
2 pitched path beside
the Allt a Mhuilinn makes
light work of the irst leg and
the boggy sections that
used to plague this route.
Navigation VVVVV
NN154740 The ascent
3 to Carn Beag Dearg is
the main climb of the day. It
can be started at numerous
places from the Allt a
Mhuilinn path; however
the higher up you start the
steeper it is. The gentlest
line is up the broad crest
that starts about 1km past
the dam/water intake.
NN171735 The climb
4 doesnt relent until
you hit the summit of Carn
Beag Dearg, so its worth
zigzagging and setting a
Technicality V (scramble)
taking a break here to rest
for the next section. Its also
about the best place going to
take in the north face of Ben
Nevis. If you look carefully
you should be able to spot
all the famous features like
Tower Ridge, the side of
the Orion Face, Carn Dearg
Buttress and at the far
right-hand end Castle Ridge.
Also, if you look carefully
into the glen below the
mouth of Coire na Ciste,
you might just spot the CIC
Hut (a giveaway is the red
stash of gas bottles and the
ROUTE STATS
Distance 17km
(10 miles)
Total ascent 1610m
Time 8 hours
Start/inish North Face
NN172711 All too soon car park (NN145763)
8 the arte is over and Terrain steep slopes; high,
you arrive at a narrow col at narrow crests with some
the head of Coire Leis. This easy scrambling; exposed
used to be the site of a series summit plateau ringed
of posts put in place to aford with crags
a winter abseil route for Maps OS Landranger
climbers wanting to regain (1:50,000) 41; OS Explorer
the bottom of the crags after (1:25,000) 392; Harvey
completing climbs on the Superwalker (1:25,000)
north face. The posts and Ben Nevis; British
aluminium sign have now Mountain Maps
been removed, replaced by (1:40,000) Ben Nevis
a permanent marker cairn.
No.4 Gully Coire na Ciste

lly
Gu

e
mb
whirling wind turbine).

dg
steady pace. Once on top

.3

Ri
Co

lly
Puon

No
a great selection of vistas

er
Mo

Gu

Gully
The
ntay

w
NN177718 Looking n

To
open out and the walking
6

.2
i
Tra

No
ck

yloo
along the crest is fantastic. down onto the Carn
1 Mountai n TPro
acnky Trig. point

Gard
Mor Dearg Arte it is easy to

lly
NN177721 Carn Mor be put of as it looks quite
5 2 Then turn to a grid

u
rG
Dearg is one of the daunting, but once you get bearing of 282 1.
1 First walk on

ge
going and make the descent

eight 4,000ft peaks in
Scotland and its a ine
summit in its own right.
There is a small ring
shelter on top and
its worth
2 sections with steep crags
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
onto it (and you can get your
head around the scale of it),
it soon relents.
NN175713 Scramble
7 There are exposed
below, but you will
in
a grid bearing of
eF
Fiv
231 for 150m
It also marks the start of the trig point have been
inal ascent to the summit
constructed to help
of Ben Nevis. Under snow avoid the worst hazards.
and ice cover this eastern However, even at 1.8m high

shoulder can be quite some have been buried after

ind plenty of big
and comforting
holds and
3 pinnacles.
4 Brenva Face. Snow and ice
diicult and has caught very snowy winters so its
many parties out. The slope imperative that youre
is convex, and a slip would prepared and able to
need to be arrested quickly navigate without them.
as the run-out is over the
steep crags of the Little The recommended descent
route when snow is lying
cover can extend into early or in poor visibility is (see
summer, so check locally as boxed diagram, above):

1
to its state and take ice axe
5 From the summit trig
and crampons if necessary. point follow a bearing
of 231 (grid) for 150m
NN166712 As with (164 yards).
10 9 the eastern shoulder

2
the summit plateau holds Then turn to a bearing
considerable quantities of of 282 (grid). This will
snow into summer, and the take you to the Mountain
6 surrounding crag and gully Track 100m (109 yards)
edges are often hidden by north of the top of Five
unstable cornices. Leaving
9 Finger Gully. (Note: allow
7 the summit plateau in for magnetic variation.)
winter or in poor visibility
is particularly hazardous. NN147724 From the
8 A series of navigation cairns
10
path above Lochan
starting close to the summit Meall an t-Suidhe head north
then drop down to the Allt a
GRADIENT Mhuilinn. The slopes are
PROFILE Start Carn Beag Dearg Carn Mor Dearg Ben Nevis Finish
steep and heathery but
1400
1200 fortunately short-lived.
METRES 1000 Generally the Allt a
ABOVE 800
SEA 600 Mhuilinn is easy to ford
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 but if it is high you may
200
need to head upstream
MILES 0 2 4 6 8 10
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 to ind a safe crossing.

23
 B LIN G R
M

O
SCRA

UTE
BEN NEVIS

THE LEDGE
ROUTE
This is the toughest route a hillwalker can take to the
roof of Britain. If youre looking to spice up your
mountain adventures this year, read on...
WORDS OLI REED

24
 The Ledge Route provides the perfect middle ground
between walking and climbing. Exposed and technical
enough to need good scrambling and route-finding skills,
its never quite daunting enough to require ropes.
TOM BAILEY

hatever way you look at it, or whichever

W
way you approach it, Ben Nevis is a hell
of a challenge. Huge, in fact. Monstrous.
The biggest and baddest weve got.
The rocky steps and sweaty scree slopes
of the Mountain Track may mangle your
knees and leave you gasping for breath, the CMD Arte may
produce heart-thumping views and some pulse-quickening
exposure, but for the more daring among you there is another
way. Its known as the Ledge Route and its the best of the lot.
A slight cautionary note before you get started, though: this
is very much a route for confident scramblers. Youll do plenty
of walking to reach the start point at the legendary climbers
base of the CIC Hut; but from there youll be scrabbling through
loose gullies, zigzagging back and forth across slippery rock
ledges, sneaking between wonky rock towers, then traversing
a narrow stretch of knobbly ridgeline that terminates high on
The Bens summit plateau.
This Grade 2 route is nerve-racking in places partly because
of the precarious positions you find yourself in and the heavy
doses of exposure the terrain serves up, but mostly because of
the sheer scale of your surroundings. The Ledge Route sneaks
25
SCRAMBLING ROUTE
The Charles its way directly up the mountains immense north face,
Inglis Clark (CIC) providing safe passage through cliffs and crags that are
Memorial Hut,
nestled below the
usually the preserve of rock monkeys with ropes.
cliffs of the north With every stride you take up the mountainside youll
face. The start of be walking in the footsteps of legends, and standing on
the Ledge Route the shoulders of giants. The curved amphitheatre of the
is located in the
narrow gully at the north face stretches for almost 2km towards the head
top of the scree of Coire Leis, its savage features twisted and fractured
slope directly during the repeated glaciations of the last ice age. The
above the
rocks that spill from the summit in a tangle of ridges,
huts roof.
KEITH FERGUS/ gullies and cliffs were spewed from the guts of a volcano
ALAMY that erupted then collapsed over 400 million years ago,
but it wasnt until the late 1800s that climbers began
exploring the mountain. Pioneering Victorians such as
Harold Raeburn, Norman Collie and William Naismith
were the first to set the standard, and the Ledge Route
allows you to follow them into the heart of Britains
mightiest mountain. Heres how to do it
THE WALK-IN
The best place to leave your car is the North Face car
park near the village of Torlundy. Sadly, it isnt actually
at the base of the north face; so you have to tackle a
long and often midge-infested route that winds along
signposted tracks towards a stile on the edge of forestry
plantations. This is where youll get your first clear view
of Ben Nevis and if youve never seen the north face
before, the enormity of its cliffs may send a shiver down
your spine. From here a straight 3.5km of walking
along the Allt a Mhuilinn brings you to the Charles
Inglis Clark (CIC) Memorial Hut, nestled beneath the
26
north face. The hut has accommodation for 24 people at
a cost of 15 per night, but demand is high so bookings
must be made well in advance (email: cic@smc.org.uk).
THE SCRAMBLE
FINDING THE START POINT
From the door of the CIC Hut you can pick out many
of The Bens finest climbing routes. The great craggy
spurs of the North East Buttress and Tower Ridge bite
into the skyline to your left, while Castle Ridge rears
upwards on the horizon to your right. The Ledge Route
begins slightly to the right of centre at the base of No. 5
Gully, then breaks off right before winding upwards on
open and rocky ground towards the minor summit of
Carn Dearg (1221m). To get started, shovel down some
food to boost your energy levels, then clamber over the
huge slabs directly in front of the hut and keep to the
right of the two streams running down from Coire na
Ciste. Depending on the time of year and the weather,
youll now head up either steep scree or snow slopes to
the entrance of No. 5 Gully.
NO. 5 GULLY
Climb into the throat of the gully for around 50m until
you reach a wide ramp on your right that starts with a
mixture of loose stone and grass, then crosses a section
of nasty slab that slides unnervingly away from you.
In the wet this slab can be incredibly slippy, so take
extreme care with foot and hand placements as you
cross it. Once across the slab, keep climbing until you
reach an obvious rocky trench that leads up to the left.
 Left: the tricky
downclimb
towards the top
section of the
Ledge Route.
Below: crampon
scratches are
indicators of
previous ascents,
but shouldnt
be relied on for
navigation.
TOM BAILEY

This section can be scrambled easily, either up the base of that mark the roof of Britain.
the trench or on rocks to the left. Take the obligatory selfies,
guard your lunch from the
THE HEART OF THE NORTH FACE cheeky resident snow buntings
Youll now find yourself on a faint section of ridge who will attempt to pinch it,
overlooking No. 5 Gully, where you should stop to drink then rejoin the main track that
in the enormity of your surroundings, with grey walls leads down to Lochan Meall
soaring above you from every angle. Tower Ridge looks an t-Suidhe, also known as
ever more impressive to the south as you climb higher, the Halfway Lochan. Shortly
and its worth scanning the cliffs with binoculars to pick before reaching the lochan, take
out climbers on even more perilous routes than your own. the path that traverses the foot
Follow the ridge upwards, then skirt beneath a section of Carn Dearg and eventually leads you back to the
of crags and either walk beneath or squeeze behind a Allt a Mhuilinn. Find a safe place to cross the higher
teetering rock tower with a huge perched top block. up the better after periods of heavy rainfall then
Another short section of uphill follows the tower, with follow your outward route back to the car park.
great views down the valley and out towards the northern Congratulations, you just completed the toughest
Highlands, until you reach an obvious section of ridge walkers route up Britains highest mountain.
leading up to the left. Now treat yourself to a pint at the Grog & Gruel
in Fort William!
CRESTING THE RIDGE
Now get ready for some epic ridge scrambling. The route Ben Nevis
soon narrows to a thin crest with huge drops ahead, and
the excitement cranks up a notch with a tricky descent
step that needs great care when downclimbing. From
perched boulder
here the rest of the route is laid out clearly, with plenty
of narrow stretches but all on good rock with large holds
to grapple with. The rocks steepen sharply as you reach North Trident
Trident N
Buttress
o.

the summit plateau but arent as intimidating as they

5

first appear, and the trickiest sections can be dodged on

Gu
Moo

lly

easier ground to the left. Youre now on the summit of

Carn Dearg, with Ben Neviss true summit lying over
nlig

a kilometres walk around the head of the north face.

ut
ht

Ro
e
Gull

THE SUMMIT Moonlight edg

L
yy

In clear weather the route ahead is obvious, but in poor Gully Buttress The Curtain Carn Dearg
Dear
visibility make sure you keep your map, compass and (ice fall) Buttress
GPS handy. There are plenty of gullies and cliff edges o.
N

5
JEREMY ASHCROFT

between you and the summit; and the flat, featureless Gu

top of Ben Nevis is an easy place to lose your bearings. lly
After curving around the head of Coire na Ciste youll
eventually plug in to the Mountain Track, which will lead
you to the ruined observatory, trig point and stone shelter
Coire na Ciste

27
SCRAMBLING ROUTE
ROUTE GUIDE
Ben Nevis The Ledge Route
 Strenuousness VVVVV
NN145765 From the
1 North Face car park in
the forest by Torlundy, go
south on the forest road and
cross the burn, and almost
immediately follow a
waymarked new path up
through the woods to the
south of the golf course. This
excellent path zigzags up
through the woods to the
Alcan road at the top edge of
the trees. Continue on the
upgraded Allt aMhuilinn
path. This used to be a
boggy trudge but is now a
super-speed highway up to
the north face routes of The
Ben. The path meanders
gently alongside the burn
with the huge bulk of Carn
Dearg dominating the
approach to the CIC hut.
About a kilometre short
of the hut the path
upgrade ceases and you
continue on a rougher
old track to the hut.
There are ine views
up towards the routes
on Carn Dearg.
NN167723 A few
2 metres to the north
of the hut, cross the burn
and scramble due west up
some gently inclined slabs.
These lead up to a huge
overhanging clif fringed by
an apron of scree. The route
now follows a line around
the base of these clifs and
into the bottom of No. 5
Gully. There is a variation
that traverses further south
and around Moonlight Gully
Buttress but this is the
direct route. Once in the
gully you may come across
snow (present for much
of the year). It is possible
to scramble along rocks
above the snow but this is
awkward and diicult, and it
is normally better to carry
an ice axe and ascend the
snow (unless there is a high
risk of avalanche). Climb up
the gully for a reasonable
distance until you reach
an obvious ramp on the
right leading up to a slanting
shelf below a fringe of
overhanging clifs.
Depending on the quantity
of snow present, this may be
28
ROUTE STATS
Distance 17km
(10 miles)
Total ascent 1420m
Time 8 hours
Navigation VVVVV Technicality VV (scramble) Start/inish North Face
car park (NN145765)
a wintry axe-and-crampons Terrain exposed Grade 2
job or a scramble on some scramble, possible winter
quite slippery slabs. Grade 1 gully, featureless
mountain plateau and some
NN162721 Scramble
3 Follow the slanting
good access paths; within
capabilities of conident
shelf to leave the gully and scramblers route-inding
traverse below the band is the biggest challenge
of crags, then ascend a
Maps OS Landranger
rocky trench to your left,
(1:50,000) 41; OS Explorer
eventually making for the
(1:25,000) 392; Harvey
shattered crest of a rocky
Superwalker (1:25,000)
ridge where some huge,
Ben Nevis
perched boulders can be
seen on the skyline. The
route now changes in Above: near the top of the Coire na Ciste
No.4 Gully
character with scrambling Ledge Route scramble.
Right: a safe descent route
lly
Gu
e
mb
dg
from the Bens summit.
.3
Ri
Co
lly
Puon
No
er
Mo
Gu
Gully
The
ntay
w
along a narrow rocky crest n
To
.2
i
of boulders. Ascend west Tra
No
ck
yloo
1 along the ridgeline, Mountai n TPro
acnky Trig. point
Gard
clambering over various
lly
2 Then turn to a grid
Gu
blocks and along some
er bearing of 282 1.
1 First walk on
ing
sections of arte. Here there
a grid bearing of
eF
are stunning views across
Fiv
231 for 150m
Coire na Ciste to the summit
of Ben Nevis. You reach a
tricky narrowing on the
Theres an alternative to this making the inal ascent to
ridge as you ascend to a
bad step on the north side a the 1345m summit cairn.
point above the clifs you
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
few metres back down the There are good views across
previously traversed
ridge. Less exposed and to the Carn Dearg clifs and
below. This involves
with better holds, this is a Ledge Route from here.
a short, exposed
better option for the less
downclimb with
conident scrambler. NN167712 To return
many crampon 6 to the car park you can
scratches and
NN161722 Scramble take the Mountain Track to
some quite 4 Once above the clif the halfway lochan see
polished
line the ridge broadens and box above for the safe
rock.
easy scrambling leads onto descent from the summit
the plateau of Carn Dearg. then make the rough
Either side of the ridge are traverse across the moors
ine corries, often fringed by towards the Allt aMhuilinn.
huge cornices, so take care This involves a rough
not to stray to the edge. crossing of boggy slopes,
5 4 2 The summit of Carn Dearg
is marked by cairns, with
although there are some
tracks to follow. Make for the
the main summit located forest, but the only safe
3 at the top of No. 5 Gully. crossing point is via a bridge
on the vehicle track coming
NN159719 Having up from the Alcan works,
5 reached the plateau just to the north of the water
you can bag The Ben proper. intake station on the Allt
6 Go along the rim of the corrie aMhuilinn. Once back on the
then head south to join the track, follow the signs back
Mountain Track before to the North Face car park.
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Carn Dearg Ben Nevis Finish
1400
1200
METRES 1000
ABOVE 800
SEA 600
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5 6
200
MILES 0 2 4 6 8 10
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
 The quiet side of Ben Nevis
If you want The Ben all to yourself, Aonach Mor

the green slopes of Glen Nevis offer Aonach Beag

Carn Mr Dearg
two short, steep and spectacular Stob Choire
Bhealaich

routes to the summit. Ben Nevis Seang

Aonach Mr

Carn Dearg Sgir a' Bhuic

te
Ca
rn

Ar
M
r Dear Coire nan

g
North Face
Car
car park Laogh

Meall an t-Suidhe Five Finger

Gully
Carn Dearg Meall Cumhann

Steall
Achintee
JEREMY ASHCROFT

SYHA P
SYHA
G
L
E
GN
L
EN
CARN DEARG
NE
V 4.5km/3 miles
 Strenuousness VVVV
I

NOTE: DISTANCES N
S

ARE ONE-WAY ONLY NOR

TH
Polldubh Navigation VVVVV
Technicality VVVV

Youre unlikely to see many (if any)

STEALL ROUTE
3km/2 miles
 Strenuousness VVVV
Navigation VVVVV
Technicality VVVV
Solitude is the selling point for
this lesser-trod route. Theres no path and
a lot of loose rock, but used in descent
you'll probably get of The Ben without
seeing a single soul. Navigation
as always is important, as some
potentially dangerous clifs to the east
threaten the top sections; but once
theyve been conidently avoided you can
enjoy arresting views across to Sgurr
aMhaim and the rest of the Mamores.
Thats if you can lift your eyes from the
ankle-twisting rocks and swathes of
bracken that lie in your path (its
lesser-trod for a reason). But, even with
much map consultation and the odd
bum-on-rock traverse down the slopes,
you can get from the summit to the Glen
Nevis car park in two hours, most likely in
pure, unsullied silence.
Best in descent, as its quick (but steep)
with spectacular views.
The steep pull up from Glen Nevis
on the Steall route, with the
people on this route, yet the views
across to the Mamores and the Ring of
An Steall waterfall tumbling Steall rank as some of the inest in the
from the lower slopes country. As a south-facing slope its
of An Gearanach.
covered with lush vegetation, a far cry
TOM BAILEY
from the bare-bones rockfall of the
north side. Not that there arent
scattered boulders and splintered stone
to negotiate on this toweringly steep
terrain. Travelling around the crest of
Coire Eoghainn from the summit on the
descent, your route down to sea-level
follows the burn that drains into Glen
Nevis, creating a challenging route that
certainly feels pristine and unexplored
in comparison to the Mountain Track.
However, you must be certain of the
start at NN158711, and later on head
north-east rather than directly east
(youll be tempted) at NN158700.
The route isnt without dangers:
it passes close to both Five Finger
Gully and the edges south and east of
Carn Dearg, so competent navigation
is key to enjoying this consistently
interesting route.
Best in either direction; despite
navigational hazards this is a
stunning way to see The Ben.

29
BEN NEVIS

Ben Nevis danger

The summit plateau of Britains highest mountain is fraught with danger.
Heres how to descend from it safely in any weather.

Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arte NN178721

The CMD Arte provides a challenging alternative route. In summer it gives
a simple Grade 1 scramble with lots of comforting pinnacles to hold onto
and shimmy between. However, in snow the pinnacles disappear, turning
the route into a narrow and very exposed crest. Youll need to be proicient
moving over mixed ground using an ice axe and crampons, and be used to
exposure. High winds make progress either very diicult or impossible.

EXPERT TIP!
In winter as well as adequate warm clothing
you will need ice axe and crampons, and the
skills to use them. Goggles are also essential
as map reading and navigation will become
severely compromised in windblown snow.
Check for avalanche alerts before you set out
at the SportScotland Avalanche Information
Service (www.sais.gov.uk), where daily
reports of avalanche, snow, and mountain
conditions are reported.
The Zigzags NN157713
The Zigzags path is often obliterated by
snow, so it is vital to stay alert and keep
up with the map and compass work.

Red Burn NN147718

At the bottom of the Zigzags youll cross
the Red Burn to reach the Halfway Lochan
(Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe). When banked
out with snow the slope is steep and
exposed, requiring great care to cross safely.

30
 Eastern Shoulder NN169710 The plateau
This gives access to the CMD Arte from the summit The main problem for hillwalkers is getting of

spots
and the route down to Steall in Glen Nevis. This
shoulder forms a steep convex slope and is also prone
to wind scour and low temperatures, which can make
it very icy. Careful footwork is critical here as a fall
would be very hard to arrest. Can be avalanche-prone.
the plateau safely when it has a covering of snow.
Winter snows can lie up to 30ft deep with fragile
cornices (snow overhangs) extending over crag edges
for over 40ft, and often the snow lasts well into the
summer months. Regular white-outs and high winds
make navigation extremely diicult.

You have to walk on two very precise bearings

V to ind the safe route down so you need to be
pretty handy with a map and compass. From the trig
point summit (NN166712) follow a bearing of 231
(grid bearing) for 150m, then 282 (grid bearing)
down McLeans Steep to the start of the zigzags.
A new set of navigation cairns have been built to
aid clearing the plateau, but although they are
tall, some still bank out after heavy snowfall.

No.4 Gully Coire na Ciste

yll
Gu

e
mb

idg
.3

rR
Co

lly
Puon

No
Mo

Gu

we

lly
The
ntay
n

To

o Gu
.2
i
Tra

No
ck

ylo
Mountai n TPro
acnky Trig. point

Gard
lly
2 Then turn to a grid

Gu
er
bearing of 282 1.
1 First walk on

ing
a grid bearing of

eF
Fiv
231 for 150m

Gardyloo Gully NN165711

The irst leg of the bearing (above) gets you away from
the cornices at the head of Gardyloo Gully, but beware:
these cornices can be huge, and they lie only 35m
away from the line of the bearing.

Five Finger Gully

NN157712
The second bearing (above) takes you
down the steepening of McLeans Steep
and onto the easier slopes at the top of
the Zigzags. This isnt a time to relax,
however, as it is easy to drift left of your
bearing, which will take you onto the
steep convex slopes at the head of Five
Finger Gully. Can be avalanche-prone.

An aerial view of Ben Nevis,

as seen from the west.
STUART SMITH

31

Climbing Ben Nevis:
common questions
HOW HARD IS IT?
 No matter which route you take,
Ben Nevis is tough. This is Britains
highest peak by some distance and any
ascent begins from near sea-level, making it
a big physical undertaking. The Mountain
Track is technically the easiest route, but
the ierce weather and serious navigational
obstacles near the summit mean you must
be an experienced walker with good map
and compass skills to attempt it. Other
routes range from low-graded scrambles
to technical rock-climbs and winter
mountaineering epics, so plan your
ascent carefully and choose a route that
suits your level of experience and ability.
HOW LONG
DOES IT TAKE?
That depends on your route and
level of itness. The Mountain Track is the
busiest path on Ben Nevis and an average
return trip to the summit takes 7-8 hours,
with Three Peaks Challenge walkers often
aiming to complete it in 5 hours or less.
Longer and more technical routes such as
the CMD Arte or Ledge Route take longer:
check the individual route descriptions
on the previous pages for full details.
HOW DO I GET THERE?
BY CAR
Ben Nevis towers directly over
the town of Fort William, which
can be reached from the south on the busy
A82 road that passes through Glen Coe from
Glasgow or Stirling. If approaching from the
north, both the A82 and A86 meet at
nearby Spean Bridge, followed by a
short drive to Fort William on the A82.
Nearest 24-hour petrol station
Ben Nevis Service Station, North Road,
Fort William PH33 6TQ
BY TRAIN
Fort William train station is served
by Scotrail and has good links to
Glasgow city centre (www.scotrail.co.uk).
32
BEN NEVIS
BY BUS
Bus operator City Link runs a
regular service from Glasgow
to Fort William. Check its website for a
detailed timetable (www.citylink.co.uk).
BY PLANE
4 Glasgow (100 miles), Edinburgh
(145 miles) and Inverness
(70 miles) are all popular choices for
walkers travelling to Fort William.
WHERE DO I PARK?
P The Glen Nevis Visitor Centre
pay and display car park (grid ref
NN122729, postcode PH33 6PF), is ideal for
anyone attempting the Mountain Track.
There is space for around 80 cars, plus
toilets, a shop and picnic areas. It costs
3 for a car and 10 for a minibus per day.
If attempting the CMD Arte or Ledge Route,
the North Face car park is your best bet
(grid ref NN144764, postcode PH33 6SW).
Spaces are limited and there are no toilets
or shop, but parking is free.
WHERE CAN I BUY
T FOOD & DRINK?
Make sure you take food and
water for the whole day, as there are no
facilities on the hill. Fort William has plenty:
carry at least 2 litres of water per person.
Nearest supermarket Morrisons, Fort
William PH33 6AN (Mon-Fri 8am-9pm,
Sat, 7am-9pm, Sun 8am-6pm)
ARE THERE BINS
ON THE MOUNTAIN?
Glen Nevis Visitor Centre
provides bins for charity events as there are
none on site. The mountain, however, has
none so take all rubbish down with you.
ARE THERE TOILETS?
Yes, at Glen Nevis Visitor Centre,
but thats it. Take a ziplock bag with
a few sheets of toilet paper plus a nappy bag
in case youre caught short. And dont leave
anything unpleasant behind.
WILL MY MOBILE
PHONE WORK?
Phone reception can be patchy and
doesnt work all over the mountain. If youre
using a GPS app that needs 3G, it CANNOT be
relied on for navigation.
CAN I TAKE MY DOG?
You can, but under control. Dont let
your dog bother other walkers
and be aware that sheep graze up to around
700 metres. The terrain is stone steps, scree
and rock, which can be harsh on a dogs pads;
so test your pet on similar routes irst.
SHOULD I HIRE
[ A GUIDE?
Booking a local guide can take the
stress out of organising your trip, and they
will enhance your walk with their excellent
knowledge of the local area. Make sure they
are well-qualiied before booking, though.
Visit www.outdoorcapital.co.uk/
activities for a list of recommended guides.
 The awesome cliffs of Ben Nevis north face,
still full of snow in this late spring photograph.
PETER MACFARLANE

WHATS THE zzz WHERE SHOULD WHATS THE

WEATHER LIKE? S I STAY? BEST PUB?
Unpredictable! Ben Nevis Fort William and the surrounding For atmosphere, real ale and
generates its own weather systems and the area has a huge variety of accommodation proper pub grub its hard to beat the Grog &
average annual temperature on the summit options, ranging from campsites, B&Bs and Gruel on Fort William high street. It isnt the
sits just below freezing. It isnt uncommon hostels to a Travelodge on the high street. biggest pub in town and can get busy, so get
for the sun to be shining in Fort William For a comprehensive list visit www. there early and settle in for the night!
and snow to be falling on the mountains outdoorcapital.co.uk/accommodation www.grogandgruel.co.uk
summit. You must be prepared for wind,
Below: the Ring of Steall
rain, low cloud, freezing temperatures
would make a great
and snow, even in summer or if Am Bodach additional walk if
youre lucky you may even get you plan to stay
Sgurr an Iubhair
sunshine! The Mountain Weather in the area.
Information Service website (www. Stob Coire a Chairn
Chair
Devils
Devil
mwis.org.uk) is updated twice daily Ridge
and the Met Oice mountain forecast Sgurr a Mh
Mhim
An Garbhanach
(www.metoice.gov.uk) provides
an hourly overview of the conditions COIRE A MHIL
An Gearanach

TOP 5
you could face on the summit.

HOW DO
I CONTACT
MOUNTAIN
RESCUE?
First up, are you sure you
need to alert a rescue team?
Being tired or running out
Coire Chadha
Chadh
Chaoruinn INSIDER TIPS
of Snickers bars arent good
enough reasons to mobilise Steall
Hut
an entire team of volunteers. wire bridge
bridg
But if its a genuine Achriabhach
emergency, and you
believe you or one of N
MAKE A WEEKEND OF IT N E V I S
E
your party are in danger,
If you decide to stay in the area for a few
L

dial 999 or 112 and ask G

days (and you really should), the chain START/
for the Police, stating
of four Munros known as the Ring of
FINISH
WEAR
your location, then SUNSCREEN
Steall that stand across Glen Nevis
Mountain Rescue. On the (admittedly rare)
to the south would make a great
additional day of walking. days of blazing sunshine
AVOID DRINKING
on the mountain,
FROM STREAMS especially if its snowy,
You can if you want, of course,
CARRY but it isnt safety tested and
its all too easy to
WALKING POLES on a busy day there can
get sunburn.
Whatever your route of
be over 1,000 people
ascent, youll be faced with a
on the mountain
long, steep descent that will
take its toll on your knees.
and no toilets! BUY MIDGE
SPRAY
The Glen Nevis Visitor
Centre in particular is
crawling with the little
beasts in the height
of summer.
33
SCAFELL PIKE

34
 Scafell Pike viewed from neighbouring Kirk Fell, with
Lingmell in the foreground and Broad Crag to the left.
TOM BAILEY

Englands
highest
mountain:
978m/3,209ft

35
SCAFELL PIKE
Looking from the summit of
Great Gable towards one of
Englands most famous views:
the Scafells to the left and
Wast Water straight ahead.
TOM BAILEY
spiky name can make you famous when youre a hill.
A
Hit the ear like you were forged in the Dark Ages by fire
and hot pokers, and you could become what Scafell Pike
is to most people: whispered, frightening, of myth.
Being slighter and more subtle than Ben Nevis and
Snowdon, somehow these rather darker qualities were
always going to bulk out what the mountain lacks in
very great height, and make Englands highest peak
legendary for far more interesting reasons. Tis the way
for English hills in the main unless youre something
like Great Gable or Ingleborough, being less physically
shrill than many Scottish or Welsh counterparts means
you need to mine your charm from elsewhere. This can
be done in a kind of aristocratic, literary way as with
the green fells of Grasmere, beloved of Romantic poets
and easel-lugging painters or in a menacing, gothic
way. As, verily, here.
Scafell Pike flaunts the latter traits like no other.
Beneath a 978m trig point 3,209ft in old money
this summit mixes every strain of quintessentially
English, mossy charisma to high concentration.
Its a strange mountain. Unlike Snowdon or Ben
Nevis, it doesnt have a silhouette that lends itself to
instant recognition, nor a single, defining angle. There
are triggers the gap of Mickledore, and the fluidic
swirls of its upper reaches, like fresh lava that has
set mid-ooze. Perhaps its due to its membership of a
massif Siamesed as it is to the oft confused though
distinctly separate Scafell but Scafell Pike is most
certainly a mountain that hides its identity.
From Wasdale, its all fanning, elegant slopes
sinewed with grey streams in its lower reaches, moated
by valleys and fields crackle-glazed by drystone walls.
In its higher reaches, the gentility ends and brutality
takes over: whorls of tumorous rock, buttresses like
rotting bone-ends and sudden cliffs comprise the
mountains top third. Its striking, and angry-feeling.
36
Approach from Eskdale through the Great Moss,
though, and the Scafell massif stands above it as a row
of pyramidal summits that peer regally down onto this
broad floodplain. Scafell Pike is one of them, yet from
the mouth of Great Moss, Ill Crag, Broad Crag and the
Pike are unnervingly similar. From here, increasingly so
as you approach and square up, Scafell Pike is a triangle
sharp and chewed, like an unearthed arrowhead.
Seen from Borrowdale, it changes skin again. This
valley is the jumping-off point for many who travel the
slopes of the mountain, but you cant see it at all; its
top is lost among the heads and shoulders of its sentry
peaks, which jostle it like minders flanking a dictator.
Once in its higher places, the mountain becomes a
labyrinth, all rock and rampart. In mist, the top of
Scafell Pike is a place of sinister atmosphere, all
cloud-cloaked shapes and the delicate clink of
boulders amid a huge, absorbent silence.
This is Scafell Pikes wonderful weapon.
It disarms your expectations. Its a mountain that
keeps you guessing, then surprises the hell out of
you. Its more rocky, more vague, more mysterious
than Snowdon or Ben Nevis. In the middle of the
night when firefly chains of Three-Peakers often
taste the mountain for the first time it becomes
thrilling and confusing. Ghosts of old climbing
hang thick hereabouts Samuel Taylor Coleridge
inadvertently invented mountaineering on a descent
of Broad Stand just feet away. Great Gable and its
historic crags lie in bare relief below. The entire Lake
District sprawls below your boots. Whoever you are,
stand at the highest point of a country so storied, so
rich and look down upon whatever lies beneath be it
a low-lit evening landscape of mountains and shadows,
an endless view of land, lake and sea stretching to the
Isle of Man and beyond, murk, or a mix of the three
and you will feel epic. Words Simon Ingram
Scafell Pike:
a miscellany
Were all aware its Englands highest; but here
are some less well-known facts about the peerless pike
Scafell Pike
should be pronounced
Scaw-fell Pike
Indeed, it was originally written as
Scawfell and this version can still
be seen on some old maps.
Calls to Wasdale Mountain
Rescue have increased by
over 100 per cent since 2002.
While the number of injured
walkers hasnt changed
dramatically, the number
of mobile phones has, and
there has been a noticeable
increase in lost walkers or
cragfast (stuck) walkers
calling for help. These
account for more than 50
per cent of callouts, proving
good navigation is key on
Englands highest mountain.
Wasda
ly 2 0 0 6 t he
P
On 22 Ju to help
s c a lled out p aw
wa is
ly cut h
ad bad ce weig
who h a t u re d, Prin
o d -n
very g o
The re
scue in
volv e d
The Scafell range is made up of Borrowdale Volcanics: igneous rocks from the Ordovician geological period
approximately 444-488 million years ago. The summit of Scafell Pike is also home to the highest boulder
ield in England. These shattered rocks are thought to have been caused by weathering and frost action,
although 19th century
Occasionally a small cloud known
as the Borrowdale Sop appears near
Piers Gill and the head of Borrowdale. It is said
that if it loats of down the valley north-east
towards the Vale of St John it will be ine,
but if it goes south-east towards
Langdale it will rain.
In
According to data provided by a Lake District
1921 Lord
Leconield
National Park warden, out of every 100
people who climb the Scafell massif...
a walker from London by
Scafell Pike, only nine climb Scafell.
the name of Cornelius
donated the
summit of 67
For every 100 people who climb
Crump fell into Piers Gill
Scafell Pike to the do so from Wasdale
while descending from
National Trust in
Scafell Pike and broke his leg.
He lay there for nearly three
1919 in memory of
the men of the Lake
19
weeks before being rescued, from Seathwaite
District who fell for
having survived on water
from a nearby pool and
God and King, for
freedom, peace and
8
the remnants of some from the Langdales
right in the Great War.
sandwiches hed
taken with him. 6
from Eskdale.
The name Scafell
comes from the Viking
word skali meaning
shelter, and jell meaning
mountain. From many
angles the mountain of The Scafell
Scafell appears taller massif is rife with
than Scafell Pike, and for a hauntings, including
time the latter was considered a phantom galloping
a subsidiary top of the former. horse at Burnmoor and the
ghost of a headless outlaw
The peaks known today as Ill Crag,
on the old packhorse trail
Broad Crag and Scafell Pike were
at Styhead Pass.
collectively called The Pikes of
ea m
Sca Fell. The name Scafell Pike
s c ue T
u nt ain Re came about due to an error on
le M o d g
o
ear-old
r in ce, a 6-y lt ho ugh an Ordnance Survey map.
rocks.A
s on the r t ly 6 stone.
he d a p
o
he tea
m
e m b ers of t
1 1 m
and to
ok nea
rl y
Broad Crag Tarn An enormous boulder in
5 hour
s.
(which is actually on Scafell Pike, not Broad Crag)
is claimed to be the highest standing water in
Hollow Stones
(simply marked as big boulder on guidebook
England at 820m and can be found about a writer Alfred Wainwrights sketch of the
quarter of a mile south of the summit. route) is often used as a waymarker for the
start of the ascent to Mickledore. It has been
known as the Breakfast Rock, and is now
more regularly referred to as the Woolworth
Boulder. The reasons behind these titles
remain a mystery, although it has been
suggested that the Woolworth
tag relates to its size and how
geologist Clifton Ward believed earthquakes may have played a part. far it collapsed...
37
 Passing through Hollow Stones with the
crags of Scafell Pike dead ahead. The route
to Lingmell Col is on the left of the picture,
with the wide opening to Mickledore
catching the sun to the right.
TOM BAILEY

E NGE R
L

O
L
C HA

UT
SCAFELL PIKE

E
HOLLOW
STONES
Often dimissed as the boring way to the summit of
Scafell Pike, this famous route from Wasdale shows
off many of the mountains most majestic features.
WORDS SIMON INGRAM

38
 heres a lot to be said for direct routes.
T
Theyre swift, often adventurous (Eiger
Direct, anyone?) and by their nature
cut out what philistines might call
unnecessary diversions en route to an
ultimate goal. Certainly in the context
of the 24-hour Three Peaks, something thats quick
has obvious appeal though in the case of the Brown
Tongue Path from Wasdale it must be said this appeal
largely exists on paper. Many will use the Brown
Tongue for Three Peaks attempts as it is the quickest
way up and down the mountain, but driving to and
squeezing through Wasdale in the dead of night let
alone negotiating this lovely route in the dark is
no fun for anyone. Moreover, this is a small rural
settlement not built to deal with crowds or put up with
noise in the wee small hours, so any challenge starting
here must be conducted with the utmost courtesy.
Given time to pause, and a clear afternoon to do
so, this brisk way to the summit of Englands highest
mountain has much to recommend it. Particularly so if
youre of the mind to spend a night in this remarkable
valley where the tiny, historic base camp of Wasdale
Head with its inn and welcoming B&Bs makes
for an atmospheric evenings digs and rounds out the
experience of being in this special place.
Scafell Pike is a difficult mountain to define in
terms of its silhouette. Swirled and knobbly, bulbous
and twinned with the elegant, abrubt-ended wedge of
Scafell, as a mountain it is by far at its most distinctive
39
CHALLENGE ROUTE

Above: from Wasdale, where the character of the mountain
ascending the and its many warrens can be assessed.
Brown Tongue
path from To the route. The start begins at the very tip of Wast
Wasdale, with Water, where a campsite and a car park give way to
Wast Water streams and (alongside one in particular Lingmell
stretching
Gill) the beginnings of the rocky path onto the Pike.
out behind.
TOM BAILEY Scafell and Scafell Pike from here ostensibly the
same mountain throw down a long drawbridge
between the rock-roughened skyline of their twin
summits, which gradually ascends into a large hollow
shadowed by their highest crags. This is the source of
the name Brown Tongue: while unappealing to the ear,
it is literally like you are walking up something broad
and lolling, into a big, nasty mouth.
Anatomical comparisons aside, its not long before
you start getting really great views, so do remember
to stop and look behind you as you go. The principal
draw to the eye is, of course, Wast Water. The lake
and mountain sit splendidly together as a package,
more so in that theyre particularly fitting counterparts
numerically: nestled beneath Englands highest
mountain, here sits Englands deepest lake. Wast
Waters deepest point 79m is a place darkly known
as The Dive. This point is 18m below sea-level: to
climb to the summit of Scafell Pike from here would
require an ascent of 996m, tantilisingly close to the
thousand-metre benchmark which would bring Scafell
Pike more in line with its higher contemporaries.
Indeed, Scafell Pike gets a lot of flak for being
the softie of the Three Peaks Challenge because its
absolute height is the least. But know this: there are
more uphill steps when you climb Scafell Pike from
Wasdale than there are climbing Snowdon from
Pen-y-Pass, due to the latters high starting elevation.
So dont call it the easiest of the Three Peaks. If
youre a pessimist, its actually the second hardest.

CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
ROUTE GUIDE
NY181074 The ascent
1
Scafell Pike via Hollow Stones of Scafell Pike from
Wasdale begins on the
valley loor, from the
 Strenuousness VVV Navigation VVV Technicality VVV National Trust campsite.
Clear paths lead you away
from the campsite, past
Brackenclose and over a
footbridge beside Lingmell
Gill. There are plenty of
route options, and the best
4 views are to be found from
Lingmells summit, but the
most common choice is via
2 3 Lingmell Col, shown left.
1
6 5 NY195074 After
2 following the path
east along the north bank of
Lingmell Gill, cross the ford
at the foot of Brown Tongue,
then climb the steep path
up Brown Tongue to the
boulders at Hollow Stones.

40
 You start feeling like you are on a mountain
rather than walking beneath one in a crag-ringed
amphitheatre called Hollow Stones. Its tempting to
think the name comes from the bivouac-sized holes
beneath some of the cottage-sized boulders hereabouts;
but like so many things this is lost to history.
Besides, anyone who arrives here wont give too much
attention to these rocks. Slanted buttresses ring you like
a jawbone of teeth: from the right, Black Crag; then
the mighty Scafell Crag, split by the fissure of Lords
Rake; the promontory of Symonds Knott, beyond which
lies the summit of 964m Scafell; then the deep cleft of
Mickledore, the invisible top of Scafell Pike and the
razor-shell rocks of Pikes Crag. Its a hell of a place.
From here the route most take splits off to the left,
zigzagging up the flanks of Lingmell to a col, where
you peel right into the wilderness of rocks that makes
up the highest ground in England. The summit is
heralded by marker cairns appearing on the path Above: Lingmell
beside you. These mark the way in mist but the sheer Col, with the
summit of
number and the fact they resemble the stone around Lingmell to
them and arent very high means theyre unreliable as the left and
a navigation aid. Good skills are important here as the Great Gables
summit catching
summit is confusing, and so covered with sharp, dark
cloud behind.
boulders that paths are indistinct. TOM BAILEY
Given clear conditions you will see a boxy, turret-
like cairn ahead: at night perhaps a hubbub of
headtorches, or if you have solitude and clear sky
a mound of darkness straddling the point where the
stars begin from the black of the mountainside. The
view, if you can see it, is immense: pyramidal, red-
scored Great Gable looks as if seen from an aeroplane.
Layers of mountains, the coast, the sea and the dome
upon which you stand tapering away on convex slopes
around you. Its like youre stood on an oversized
globe; and you will feel on top of the world.

ROUTE STATS
NY205074 From ground towards the you can peer over the edge. north-west down to
3 Hollow Stones, 978m summit of Scafell In particular, go south-east Lingmell Col, then turn Distance 7.5km
Pike. Its a fairly clear path from the summit to look south-west and descend (4 miles)
with Lingmell to your
left and the Scafell massif to follow, with cairns to across the green valley of the constructed path to Total ascent 925m
to your right, follow help you navigate in poor Great Moss and Eskdale, one Hollow Stones. Time 5 hours
the constructed path visibility. Layer upon layer of the remotest corners of Start/inish National
north-east to the obvious of mountains disappear the Lake District. NY205074 Make the Trust campsite
gap of Lingmell Col at into the horizon to the
6 steep descent from (NY181074)
around 750m in height. north and east, while NY215072 There are Brown Tongue to the ford, Terrain clear paths
the mighty clifs of
5 numerous routes you cross this and head west follow a steep ascent
NY211077 Youre now neighbouring Scafell could take in descent, some along the north side onto a rocky summit.
4 in the heart of the dominate the scene to the harder than others, but to of Lingmell Gill to the You start alongside a ghyll
highest land in England, south-west. For even better return the way you came footbridge. Cross this and will encounter scree
and a right turn south-east views, take a moment to take the same rocky path and take the path back and boulders high up.
leads you over rocky walk around the summit so you just ascended roughly to your starting point. Rough and rocky but
with little exposure
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Scafell Pike Finish Maps OS Landranger
1400 (1:50,000) 89; OS Explorer
1200
METRES 1000 (1:25,000) OL6; Harvey
ABOVE 800 Superwalker (1:25,000)
SEA 600
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5 6 Western Lakeland; British
200 Mountain Maps (1:40,000)
MILES 0 1 2 3 4 Lake District
KILOMETRES 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

41
42
 Looking down the Corridor Route path,
with the notorious accident black spot of
Piers Gill falling away to the left. Great
Gable is the mountain in the distance.
GROUGH.CO.UK / ALAMY

SIC ROU
AS
CL

TE

SCAFELL PIKE

THE
CORRIDOR
ROUTE
While the popular plod from Wasdale scratches at the surface of Scafell Pike,
this masterclass of a route delves deep into the belly of the beast.
WORDS OLI REED

43
CLASSIC ROUTE

o you want to really get to know Englands alongside Taylorgill Force waterfall the

D
Looking north
highest mountain? Good, then follow towards Styhead Tarn, sense of anticipation begins to build. And
with Green Gable and
us. Were about to trample its foothills, Base Brown rising build. And build Because the problem
scratch at its steep walls, journey into its above the footpath with climbing Scafell Pike from this angle
volcanic core, then claw our way to its from Seathwaite. is that your main objective remains hidden
boulder-strewn summit along a series of for most of the ascent in fact it isnt
paths that link together in thrilling fashion to until youre almost standing on its summit that the
create one of Britains finest mountain walks. true identity of the peak becomes obvious. The Scafell
Scafell Pike certainly isnt the prettiest of the massif is a complicated mess of mountainous terrain a
Three Peaks. In fact, if not for its status as Englands gigantic jumble of dark rock that has cracked, twisted
loftiest lump of rock youd be forgiven for not giving and swelled over millennia into a tangle of bulbous
it a second glance. It lacks the elevation and ferocity summit cones and ragged cliff faces. The fact the Pike
of Ben Nevis, the sharpness and singularity of Snowdon; stands only 14 metres higher than its nearest neighbour,
but make no mistake, this is a great mountain. and is surrounded by a clutch of satellite peaks that
And this is possibly the greatest way to walk it. nudge above the 900m barrier, means it never forcibly
You begin in the bowels of Borrowdale the luscious demands your attention until youre perched on top of
and tentacled green valley that provides a launch it and thats particularly true of this approach.
pad to so many of Lakelands most cherished peaks. From Taylorgill Force you ascend steadily alongside
The common starting point for the Corridor Route Styhead Gill, crossing it once and passing Styhead Tarn
is Seathwaite Farm, which has a deliciously remote before arriving at the historic crossroads of Sty Head.
and end-of-the-road feel. Statisticians will tell you At an elevation of almost 500m, this ancient mountain
this is officially the wettest place in England with pass lies on the route of an old packhorse trail from
over 3 metres of rain every year, so dont forget your Wasdale to Borrowdale, and also provides easy access to
waterproofs. And if by some miracle you start your Eskdale and Langdale. For you, however, Sty Head is an
walk in the dry, give yourself a smug pat on the back. important navigational feature because its an all-too-
If attempting Scafell Pike as the central peak in a easy place to wander off-course. In clear conditions the
24-hour challenge, which most people do, theres a Corridor Route can be seen snaking its way across the
good chance youll be starting this walk before sunrise. steep mountain wall to your left, cutting through the
The path leading south from Seathwaite to Stockley dark line of crags that spill from the summit of Great
Bridge is well-defined and easy to follow, but youll still End. With the naked eye you can make out the majority
be grateful for the reassurance of a headtorch. As you of the route ahead, twisting and turning upwards to the
cross Stockley Bridge and begin to climb through trees obvious little groove of Lingmell Col thats just a few

44
 JULIAN CARTWRIGHT / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
RONALD EVANS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Seathwaite Farm is the traditional starting point for the Corridor Route. Stockley Bridge over Grains Gill, with Aaron Crags rising behind.
MICHAEL ARTHUR THOMPSON / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Scafell At Esk Hause with the

Esk Pike
Scafell Pike Langdale Pikes rising
Ill Crag
above the cloud a view
JEREMY ASHCROFT

Broad Crag youll hopefully see

ke
Ra on your descent.
s
Esk Hause rd STEWART SMITH /
Lo
Allen Crags Great End ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
Lingmell
Col Hollow Green How
Stones
ute Rakehead
Ro Lingmell
Crag
r
Sprinkling do
rri
Gill

Tarn Co
Skew

rs

Br
ow
ie

P nB
rTo
nwg
Gill

nue

Seathwaite Fell Wasdale Head

Stretcher Hall
Sty Head Box
Brackenclose Wast
Great Gable Water
l
Gil
ains
Gr

Green Gable

Stockley Bridge
Lingmell Beck

Base Brown
Wasdale Head
Burnthwaite

NOR
TH
N
START/
FINISH If attempting Scafell Pike as the central
Seathwaite peak in a 24-hour challenge, theres
a good chance youll be starting
this walk before sunrise.
45
CLASSIC ROUTE

Seathwaite hundred metres from the Pikes summit; but when the
Fell and the clag is down and the rain is pouring youll need sharp
blue waters of
Sprinkling Tarn, navigational skills to stay on course.
which youll pass This is one of those routes that feels daring, rough
close to on your and adventurous without ever spilling into scrambling.
descent.
You locate the start of the Corridor Route by heading
RON EVANS /
ALAMY STOCK east from Sty Head as though ascending towards
PHOTO Sprinkling Tarn, but then turn south over the remains
of an old wall after just a few hundred metres to begin
your traverse of Great Ends western flank. You descend
slightly to begin with, then follow a well-blazoned and
rocky footpath across the mountainside. The slippery
gully of Skew Gill can be awkward to cross in the wet,
but from here there are few obstacles and if youre
treated to good visibility you can enjoy magnificent
views back across Sty Head to Great Gable as you
climb towards Lingmell Col always taking care not
to set foot into one of the deep ravines (particularly the
accident black spot of Piers Gill) that drop to your right.
As you exit the top of the Corridor Route at Lingmell
Col, the path angles away to your left to join the busy
tourist path coming up from Hollow Stones and this
is when the views really open up. The Wasdale valley
(home to Englands deepest lake, smallest church,
highest mountain and allegedly biggest liar) unfolds
its arms below, stretching seductively towards the
distant Cumbrian coastline. Every upward footstep
delivers further panoramas, and in just a few short
strides youll find yourself weaving between the throngs
of people making their own pilgrimage to Englands

Descending
from the summit
of Scafell Pike
towards Lingmell
Col, with Great
Gable (right) and
Kirk Fell (centre)
as a backdrop.
TOM BAILEY

46
 highest point. In low cloud youll often hear the summit The path down
Grains Gill on
before you see it, with the whoops, screams and happy
the return to
chatter sounding more like a school playground than Seathwaite.
a remote mountaintop. But rather than grumbling STEVE HARLING
about overcrowding, remember theyre all here for the / ALAMY STOCK
PHOTO
same reason you are. Youve travelled to Cumbria from
different parts of the world, carrying different kit and
arriving by a multitude of different routes, but youll
all go home with the same story. Later that night,
probably perched on a Keswick bar stool with a pint in
your hand, youll be telling anyone wholl listen that
you spent your day climbing to the top of a country
and that you loved every second of it.

ROUTE GUIDE
Scafell Pike Corridor Route
 Strenuousness VVV
NY235123 Free
1 parking is available
on the road to Seathwaite
but it gets busy so arrive
early to grab a spot.
NY235115 From
2 Seathwaite a gentle
section of bridleway leads
towards the ancient
Stockley Bridge.
NY234109 Once past
3 Stockley Bridge the
gradient increases and
climbs a pitched path on
rock steps.
NY229109 The 40m
4 cascades of Taylorgill
Force give you the perfect
excuse to catch your breath.
ROUTE STATS
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
1
Navigation VVV Technicality VVVV 2
NY226106 In spate, NY220075 The route
5 this bridge is the
12
bypasses Ill Crag and 3
only safe way to cross Broad Crag, but both are
Styhead Gill. worth short deviations.
4 18
5
NY218094 Sty Head NY225084 Great
6 is an important pass,
13
Ends summit is part
with old packhorse routes of the main ridge, but it is
from all the major valleys a bit out on a limb. If you 17
converging. have time, its well worth
taking a peek of the
NY222094 The start top into its gullies. 6
7 of the Corridor Route 7
is 300m to the east of NY225080 In
14
Sty Heads stretcher box. poor visibility 8
The narrow path is return to the col and
easily missed. take the Calf Cove 16
path, but in clear
9
NY221091 Carefully visibility the
8 cross Skew Gill and south-easterly
13
then make the easy curve to Esk
14 15
scramble up the wall on Hause is simple
the opposite side. enough. 10
12
NY220088 The route
9 15

now makes a slowly

Distance 13km (8 miles)
Total ascent 1150m
Time 6-7 hours
Start/inish Seathwaite in
Borrowdale, NY235123
Terrain long walk-in with
steep ghylls and a rocky
summit to contend with.
This is a rough mountain
walk with steep sections
and the upper reaches of
the Corridor Route, plus
the descent from the
summit, require careful
route-inding
Maps OS Landranger
(1:50,000) 89 or 90;
rising traverse to the broad NY232081
11
saddle of Lingmell Col. Avoid A few
dropping into the ghylls to hundred NY234099 The
17
your right at all costs. metres path gradient
north-east from eases as it crosses a
NY212077 From the top of Esk Hause, footbridge then heads down
10
Lingmell Col turn south a cross shelter ofers the west bank of Grains Gill.
(left), then south-east and sanctuary from rough
climb the zigzag path to the conditions. Your descent NY234109 From
18
stony summit of Scafell Pike. is down Grains Gill; its Stockley Bridge,
reached by heading NY229086 Take retrace your steps along
16
NY215072 Paths north-west on the the path to the head the outward bridleway to
11
arent obvious from the bridleway from the shelter of Ruddy Gill, then follow Seathwaite, where there
summit, so take a bearing for 600m to the head of its narrow course down are some public toilets
to locate the right one. Ruddy Gill. the east bank. and a tea room.
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Sty Head Corridor Route Scafell Pike Great End Finish

OS Explorer (1:25,000) 1400

1200
OL4 & OL6; Harvey METRES 1000
Superwalker (1:25,000) ABOVE 800
SEA 600
Western Lakeland; British LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5 67 8 9 1011 12 1314 15 16 17 18
Mountain Maps (1:40,000) 200

Lake District MILES 0 2 4 6 8

KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12

47
 B LIN G R
M

O
SCRA

UTE
SCAFELL PIKE

THE COCKLY
PIKE RIDGE
Fancy spicing up your journey to the summit of Scafell Pike?
Then head for Cockly Pike Ridge the greatest scramble
youve never heard of.
WORDS OLI REED

48
 Approaching Scafell Pikes summit from
Broad Crag Col, a spectacular finish to
one of Lakelands finest scrambles.
TOM BAILEY

o thats the walkers covered on Scafell Pike, but what about

S
the scramblers? Dont worry, you havent been forgotten
about, because tucked away on the mountains secretive
eastern flank hidden from the hordes who flock to the
mountain via Wasdale and Borrowdale is a gem of a
scramble crying out for some long-overdue attention.
The little-known Cockly Pike Ridge, which leads over
the summit of Ill Crag en route to the top of England, is a
scrambling line so perfect that once youve nailed it youll
be furious you didnt discover it sooner. Starting from the
pristine valley of Great Moss, this do-it-yourself route the
longest of its kind in the country rises almost 500m in less
than a kilometre, carrying you over a steep obstacle course of
rock pyramids, boulders, slabs and scree. Apart from the odd
grassy terrace, youll be on solid stone the whole way, using
hands, feet and elbows to propel yourself skywards.
Route-finding is simple, exposure is minimal, the terrain
isnt too challenging and perhaps most importantly it
feels like a proper adventure. Arguably the best thing about
the Scafell massif is that its located slap-bang in the core of
the Lake District, with the vast majority of Englands most
coveted peaks providing an epic backdrop to any ascent.
Bowfell, Esk Pike and Crinkle Crags zigzag along the skyline

49
SCRAMBLING ROUTE
Route-finding is
simple, exposure is
minimal, the terrain
isnt too challenging
and it feels like a
proper adventure.

Above Great as you kick off this particular scramble, with Great
Moss, ready End, Great Gable, Kirk Fell, Pillar and Steeple sneaking
to scramble.
into view as you clamber onto Ill Crags spectacular
TOM BAILEY
summit turret. The ascent terminates with a short
stomp across the boulder fields that lead to Englands
loftiest and most-visited mountaintop, adding the
finishing touch to a route that will warm the heart
of even the iciest-veined Scafell Pike cynics.
As with most good things, though, theres a slight
drawback, because the start of the scramble is a bit
of a pain to get to. Its well worth enduring the minor
irritation of a long walk-in, however, because as far as
single English day adventures go, this is up there with
the best of them. Heres how we did it

THE APPROACH
One of the finest parts of any walk is the planning
stage. Before tiredness kicks in, rain starts falling and
blisters start forming, you get to enjoy that beautifully
optimistic preparation phase that brims with eternal
hope and expectation. Wed scraped together a few
details about Cockly Pike Ridge from the small posse
of people we knew had attempted it, but never from
anyone whod approached the scramble in anything
resembling decent conditions. The Scafell range is the
first chunk of truly high ground reached by weather
systems charging in from the Cumbrian coastline, and
as a result it has a richly deserved reputation for being
more than a little bit wet. Its so wet, actually, that the
surrounding valleys get drowned by around 11ft of rain
per year. As a result, the small shreds of photographic
evidence wed gathered had shown this mysterious
ridgeline shrouded in dirty grey clouds, with slick
black rocks scowling back at sodden scramblers.
But although history suggested the elements would
conspire against us, luck was on our side. Having
spent the previous evening camping in the Langdale
valley, we woke to spotless blue skies and a forecast
promising more of the same for the next 24 hours.
The Cumbrian climate was unexpectedly playing ball,
so it was up to us to make the most of it. The first big
decision was how to reach the start of our frustratingly
faraway scramble, so we narrowed it down to two
options. Plan A was to launch an assault directly from
where we were standing, heading down the steep-
flanked valley of Mickleden, climbing past Angle Tarn
then dropping down to Great Moss from the busy Esk

50
TOM BAILEY
Hause crossroads. Plan B was to gun the car through
Little Langdale, then over Wrynose Pass before
cutting towards the Scafell range through the quiet
valleys of Upper Eskdale (this is the route described
in detail on the following page). Both approaches
involved over 7km of walking, but only one involved
faffing around with a car, so we laced up our boots
and begin our adventure on foot from Langdales
Old Dungeon Ghyll pub.
There arent many Lakes walks that kick off with
a 7km mission just to reach the base of the mountain
youre aiming for, but this is one of them and its a
bumpy ride. The steep climb up Rossett Gill dragged
us over the 600m contour on a thigh-scorching
mixture of rock steps and loose stones, before we
finally got a some respite alongside the still waters of
Angle Tarn. The climbing continued as we ambled
below the gnarled north face of Esk Pike, showcasing
a dramatic selection of gullies and crags that scream
out for exploration.
Having reached over 700m at Esk Hause its
heartbreaking to start descending again, which
is why most people will prefer the approach from
Brotherilkeld; but if you do pick the Langdale route
its a sacrifice worth making. The green plain of Great
Moss stretched out ahead as we dropped through
the mythical-sounding Knotts of the Tongue, with
the River Esk snaking serenely across the lonely
landscape. Ill Crag loomed ever larger to our right as
we descended into the valley, and it isnt long before
the walking stopped and the scrambling started.
THE SCRAMBLE
Theres no obvious kick-off point for Cockly Pike
Ridge, so once youre standing at its base its a case
of picking what looks like the best line and going
for it. The first few moves lead you over the top of
Cockly Pike, which is frustratingly indistinct, so the
best thing to do is look for the cleanest areas of sound
rock and make it up as you go along.
Despite the odd wobbly flake and a few patches
of loose scree, the rock is just about as good as it
gets for scrambling. The route is Grade 1 (not to
Basking in the limelight as the highest
person in England (for a few seconds).
TOM BAILEY
be confused with Ill Crags south-east face, which
floats between Grades 2 and 3) and is more of an
open mountainside than a bona fide ridge, so the
consequences of veering off course are small. If
you find yourself faced with something you dont
like the look of, simply back up a few steps and
pick a new line. The rock retains most of its grip
in the wet, providing great holds for hands and
feet; and although small patches of grass and scree
occasionally puncture the scrambling, there are
enough clean, rocky ribs and stable boulders to
prolong the excitement.
The higher you climb, the more obvious your
intended target becomes, because the route builds
towards a stunning climax on the conical tower atop
Ill Crag. Its as strong a finish to a scrambling route
as youll find anywhere in the Lakes, and the summit
is a great place for a celebratory lunch stop. Youll
need all that extra fuel as well, because although
youve just tackled the longest continuous scrambling
gradient in England, the journey isnt over yet...
THE ROOF OF ENGLAND
The bad news is that after hauling yourself to the top
of Ill Crag, youre about to head downhill again. The
path now leads along the top of Green Crag before
dipping into Broad Crag Col; then all that stands
between you and Scafell Pikes triumphant trig point
is one final pull up another boulder-strewn hillside.
Care is needed in this area, because cloud is often low
and the summit is surrounded by crags and precipices,
but once you get within 100m of your goal you can
harness the excited chatter of noisy summiteers to
guide you through the final few weary footsteps.
Like Snowdon and Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike is
often carelessly dismissed as a tourist attraction
by those who sneer at its enduring popularity as a
badge of dishonour. But like its Welsh and Scottish
counterparts, its popular for good reason. Look at
the people gathered around you at the summit, and
every one of them will be grinning. Rough, rocky,
rugged and rippling with excitement, this mountain
will always be Englands hillwalking Holy Grail.
51
 ROUTE GUIDE
Scafell Pike via Cockly Pike Ridge
 Strenuousness VVVV
NY211011 The
1 approach from
Brotherilkeld to Lingcove
Bridge is fairly sedate and
acts as a perfect warm-up.
NY222027 Heron
2 Crag is an important
nesting site for peregrine
falcons; early in the year you
will hear their raucous calls.
NY227036 Lingcove
3 Bridge is an ancient
bridge historically used by
trains of up to 30 horses at a
time en route to Borrowdale
or Langdale.
NY226037 The irst
4 real work of the day
starts after crossing
Lingcove Bridge, with
the steep climb up past
Throstle Garth.
NY225047 The path
5 sweeps around beside
the river and below the
crags of Scar Lathing to
emerge onto Great Moss.
Look for the paths,
particularly if its misty, as
they are vague in places.
NY220056 Cross the
6 River Esk above the
conluence with How Beck.
The final few moves on Cockly
Pike ridge, with Esk Pike and
Bowfell in the distance.
TOM BAILEY
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start
1400
1200
METRES 1000
ABOVE 800
SEA 600
LEVEL 400 1 2
200
MILES 0 2
KILOMETRES 0 2
52
Navigation VVVVV
If its been raining and the
water is high you may need
to head upstream to ind a
safe crossing point. From
here pass the opening that
leads up Cam Spout on your
left, then the side valley of
Little Narrowcove, until
youre below Cockly Pike.
NY229069 Scramble
7 Theres no obvious
start to this scramble,
which takes the right-hand
skyline of Ill Crag as seen
from Great Moss, so you can
pick your own line. After
crossing a boulder slope on
your left a series of rock
pyramids mark the start of
the scrambling, and after
a few short moves youll
be on top of Cockly Pike.
NY228071 Scramble
8 Above you now is
the longest scramble in
England, littered with
boulders, grass rakes, slabs
and scree chutes. There is
minimal exposure and
although you must be
careful not to over-commit
at any point, you can make
up your own route to the top.
Be careful not to climb up
anything you cant climb
down, and keep going until
Scar Lathing
34 5 6 78 9
4 6
4 6
Technicality V (scramble)
9
ROUTE STATS 8
Distance 17km 10
(10 miles)
Total ascent 1150m
Time 6 hours
11 7
Start/inish Brotherilkeld,
Eskdale, NY211011
Terrain long walk-in to 12
Great Moss, which can be
very wet and boggy. The
scramble on Cockly Pike
ridge is exciting without 6
being exposed, but the
upper sections of the walk
are rough and rocky, with
descent from the summit
needing careful navigation
5
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
Maps OS Landranger
(1:50,000) 89; OS Explorer
(1:25,000) OL6; Harvey
Superwalker (1:25,000)
Western Lakeland; British
4
Mountain Maps (1:40,000) 3
Lake District
you reach the obvious tower
that marks the end of the
scramble. Ill Crags true 2
summit is close by.
NY223074 From
9 Ill Crag summit head
north-west to join the main
path that leads past Broad
Crag then down into the
rocky col that eventually
1
leads up and over a boulder col at the head of Little
ield to Scafell Pikes Narrowcove, is short
summit. In poor visibility, and steep.
pay irm attention to detail
and dont stray too close to NY225068 The path
11
the edges. at the bottom of Little
Narrowcove becomes
NY215072 The vague; dont be tempted to
10
descent from the drift south out of the ghyll
summit back down the as this leads onto crags.
main ridge path, leading
east then north-east to the NY225064 In normal
12
conditions the route
Ill Crag Scafell Pike Finish skirts Great Moss below the
base of Esk Buttress to the
conluence of How Beck,
but if the becks are full try
to cross the River Esk at a
10 11 12
higher point. From Great
Moss retrace your steps
8 10
8 10 12 14 16 back to Brotherilkeld.
 GRAINS GILL
3 more routes
Base Brown
Seathwaite
to the top
Glaramara
Glaramara

NOTE: DISTANCES ARE

Green Gable ONE WAY ONLY
Taylor Gill
Windy Gap Force Stockley Gap
Great Gable
Seathwaite Fell
cck
BBee
H
T
Sty Head tartahth T R A
Kern Tarn sgtsr S
n
Lag
G
Great Knotts n N
Napes La
Allen Crags L
A
Sty Head Great End
oouu
ttee Esk Hause
Skew Gill
d or R

Broad CragCalf Angle

Angle
Calf Cove
Cove
Corri

Lingmell Tarn
Tarn Rossett Pike
Ill Crag Esk Pike Ros
Ore set
t Gi
ROSSETT GILL
Lingmell Col Scafell Pike Gap ll
Bowfell Old Dungeon E
Little M I L
Wasdale Hollow Stones Narrowcove C K
L E
Ghyll Hotel D
A
Head D E G
Mickledore N N
Symonds Knott L
A
Broad
Wasdale
E

Stand
O X E
L

Head Lord's Scafell Crinkle Crags N D

Esk Buttress A L E Pike of Blisco
A

Rake
D
S

Rakehead G R E A T
A

Cam Spout M O S S
W

Slight Side
Slight Side Cam Spout Cold Pike
Crag Scar Lathing
igg

Little Stand
dR

River EskThrostle Garth

Har

Wast Water

M
Bulatt Lingcove Bridge

O
S
Burnmoor Bridge

E
Tarn m

D
tto

A
Bo

L
Cat Cove

E
e
n os
Cat Crag ry
W
Hard Knott
ck

ss
Whillan Be

Scale Bridge t Pa
knot
Stony Tarn Hard

Brotherilkeld
Eel Tarn
sk
rE

CAM SPOUT
ve
Ri

YHA
N
N O R T H
E
Old Dungeon
A L
E S
K D Ghyll Hotel.
TOM BAILEY

CAM SPOUT ROSSETT GILL GRAINS GILL

8km/5 miles
 Strenuousness
Navigation
Technicality
Approaching from the relative wilderness
of Upper Eskdale, this remote route takes
in the lesser-trod soils of Great Moss before
tackling an easy scramble at the side of the
spectacular Cam Spout Force. Reaching
the equally impressive col of Mickledore,
it continues on to Scafell Pike's summit.
If climbing beside a waterfall proves
intimidating you can always divert
to the Little Narrowcove route.
Best in ascent, for the hand-on-rock
thrills of a riverside scramble.
9km/5 miles 6.4km/4 miles
VVVV  Strenuousness VVVV  Strenuousness VVV
VVVVV Navigation VVVV Navigation VVVV
VVVVV Technicality VVV Technicality VVV
As lengthy as any way up the mountain, Starting in Seathwaite, this direct route
but with the added benefit of some from Borrowdale provides a less busy way
exceptionally beautiful scenery. Starting to the top. Passing Stockley Bridge it climbs
at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, this route to Great End, curves around Esk Hause and
involves more ascent (1050m) than any makes for the summit. It's a popular descent
other route too. It takes in a long valley route because of its relative simplicity. An
walk until it reaches the side of Esk Hause, alternative (see page 42) is to follow this
from where it winds up via Calf Cove route as far as Stockley Gap, then take the
to the summit. bridge over the river to Sty Head where you
Best in either direction, as the views of join the Corridor Route to the summit.
Langdale are equally rewarding on both Best in descent, as it's direct and less
the ascent and the descent. challenging than most alternatives.

53
 Scafell Pike danger
Scafell Pike and its sister peak Scafell are the two highest points
in England, and their dangers shouldnt be underestimated.
Their multi-faceted massif is littered with scrambles, drops
and pathless scree, making knowledge of the safest routes
essential whatever the weather.

The bad step

NY218085 Lying on the popular Corridor
Route, Scafell Pikes bad step can represent a
navigational hazard on descent, particularly in
misty conditions. Many walkers are hesistant
to follow the sudden 7m scramble that presents
itself, assuming that it couldnt be part of the
main route. But stay with it:
its less intimidating than it
appears, and will keep you on
the correct north-north-east
bearing, eventually leading
to Spout Head.
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16

EXPERT TIP!
Good navigation skills are key to staying safe
on Scafell Pike. Many inexperienced walkers
are caught out by the indistinct paths, and
risk approaching dangerous drops or sufering
exposure while lost on the hillside. Carrying a
compass and making regular bearing checks
is essential even more so in misty or snowy
conditions and if you can take a GPS device
with you so much the better. If you encounter
problems near Mickledore, Wasdale Mountain
Rescue has a gear store (containing irst aid
equipment, a casualty bag and a map)
at grid reference NY210069. You are free to
use it, as long as all items are returned.

54
 MICKLEDORES MOST

spots DANGEROUS FEATURE

Broad Stand
NY209068 This is a notorious accident
black spot, and it results in some of the most
serious injuries seen on the Scafell massif.
Rarely dry, the giant steps appear far easier
to climb than they actually are. If you fall, the
sloped ledges ofer little purchase and threaten
40m drops onto jagged rocks below. Severe
injuries are common, and fatalities occur
with tragic regularity. Broad Stand presents a
diicult Grade 3 obstacle even for experienced
scramblers and should not be taken lightly.

Scafell Pike summit

NY215072 Though less severe in nature,
a large number of accidents occur on the
Pikes summit. Covered in shattered rock, its
an uneven place that becomes particularly
dangerous when masked by ice and snow,
or even when wet. Slipping and sustaining
head injuries on rocks, or twisting ankles
in small crevices are the main risks and
represent a serious hindrance to a safe The Scafell massif,
descent. As always, conident navigation seen from Yewbarrow.
is essential as the lack of clear landmarks KATHARINE EASTHAM / ALAMY
makes descending the wrong face of the
mountain an ever-present threat.
Piers Gill
NY213080
A tightly-
Mickledore knit ravine
NY210069 The narrow Mickledore gap links Scafell Pike to neighbouring that should
Scafell at an altitude of 840m. Many accidents occur here as walkers only be
attempt to cross from one peak to the other, wrongfully assuming that they attempted by
will ind a safe, easy route. There are three main routes to reach the gap experienced
from Scafell: Lords Rake, Broad Stand and Foxes Tarn. The irst two present scramblers.
considerable dangers: Lords Rake is blighted by loose rock ields, while Piers Gill is responsible for a vast
Broad Stand is notoriously sheer. Foxes Tarn is technically the safest of the number of Mountain Rescue call-
three, but be aware of the 150m+ descent and reascent it requires, and plan outs on the slopes of Scafell Pike,
accordingly. Mountain Rescue advises that experience on steep ground and particularly when time-rushed
good navigation skills are essential when attempting these routes. walkers are attempting the
Three Peaks Challenge.

Brown Tongue
NY206071 Though Brown Tongue en route to
Hollow Stones may appear as an innocuous zigzag
path, a surprising number of injuries are sustained
here through fatigue and complacency. Knees and
ankles are always vulnerable on a descent, and the
typically wet grass underfoot presents a signiicant
risk of slipping and jarring or twisting a leg. There
are few signiicant landmarks, and its an open area
that presents few navigational problems.
For more information,
visit the official Wasdale
Mountain Rescue site at:
www.wmrt.org.uk

55

Climbing Scafell Pike:
common questions
HOW HARD IS IT?
 Anyone who dismisses Scafell
Pike as the easiest of the Three
Peaks is underestimating Englands highest
mountain. Unlike Snowdon and Ben Nevis it
sits below the 1000m contour and in terms
of physicality is well within the reach of
most walkers, but its a complex mountain
with a featureless rocky summit ringed by
crags and gullies. Care must be taken around
the summit whatever route you approach
from, and you must be handy with a map
and compass to navigate safely in poor
visibility. It doesnt have the exposure of
Ben Nevis or Snowdon, but can be dangerous
if not given the respect it deserves.
HOW LONG DOES
IT TAKE?
That very much depends on your
route and level of itness. The Hollow Stones
track is probably the busiest path on Scafell
Pike and an average time to the summit
and back is around 6-7 hours, with Three
Peaks Challenge walkers often aiming
to complete it in 5 hours or less. Longer
approaches such as the Corridor Route are
likely to take longer but in some cases are
easier to reach by car, especially if starting
from the Borrowdale side of the mountain.
Check the individual route descriptions
on the previous pages for full details.
HOW DO I GET THERE?
BY CAR
Scafell Pike is located on the
western side of the Lake District,
so isnt the easiest peak to get to, and the
route you choose to climb the mountain by
will determine your car journey. If walking
from Borrowdale, leave the M6 at junction
40 then follow the A66 to Keswick before
taking the B5289 into Borrowdale. If
walking from Wasdale or Eskdale and
travelling south from Scotland, leave the
M6 at junction 44 and take the A595 around
the north and western Lakes towards
Gosforth, then take local roads through
Nether Wasdale and into Wasdale. If
approaching from the south, leave the M6 at
junction 36, then follow the A590, A5092
and A595 towards Wasdale and Eskdale.
56
SCAFELL PIKE
Make sure you have a road map, because
satnav is unreliable on these roads.
Nearest 24-hour petrol station
If approaching from Scotland, Todhills M6
service station (postcode CA6 4HA) is your
best option as from that point there are
multiple routes into the Lake District.
From the south, use Burton-in-Kendal
service station (postcode LA6 1JF).
BY BUS
Lake District Rambler buses are
aimed at walkers and provide
good access. The Borrowdale Rambler (78
or 892) runs from Keswick to Seatoller and is
ideally suited to walkers ascending Scafell
Pike from Borrowdale. Eskdale and Wasdale,
however, are much more diicult to reach by
bus. Download the guide to the Cumbrian
bus network at: cumbria.gov.uk/buses
BY TRAIN
If walking from Borrowdale the
nearest train station to Keswick
is Penrith, 17 miles away. If walking from
Wasdale or Eskdale, its possible to travel on
the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway
(www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk),
and the nearest main railway station
is Seascale near Gosforth.
WHERE DO I PARK?
P The Lakehead pay and display car
park (grid ref NY182074, postcode
CA20 1EX) is ideal for anyone using the
Hollow Stones path or other routes from
Wasdale. This is open 24 hours and your fees
go to conservation projects and maintaining
routes up Scafell Pike. Avoid parking in
passing places, Mountain Rescue access
points, private tracks, gateways, verges
or Wasdale village green. If attempting
the Corridor Route or other paths from
Borrowdale, there is roadside parking
available near Seathwaite Farm (grid ref
NY235121, postcode CA12 5XJ). Spaces
are limited, but parking is free.
WHERE CAN I BUY
T FOOD & DRINK?
Make sure you take lots of food
and water supplies as there are no facilities
to provide them on the mountain. Its best
to carry too much and not need it. Keswick
has plenty of shops, as do Cockermouth
and Kendal, and you should carry at least
2 litres of water per person per day.
Nearest supermarket
Sainsburys, Cockermouth, CA13 9RS
(Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 10am-4pm)
ARE THERE BINS ON
THE MOUNTAIN?
Scafell Pike and the surrounding
area is a fragile environment with no litter
facilities, so make sure you take all of your
rubbish and food waste away with you.
WHAT ABOUT LOOS?
The nearest loos are in Wasdale and
Seathwaite. See page 32 for advice
on managing without them...
WILL MY MOBILE
PHONE WORK?
Phone reception can be extremely
patchy in the Lake Districts valleys and
certainly doesnt work on all parts of the
mountain. Often the higher you get, the
better the signal but its never guaranteed.
If youre using a GPS app that requires 3G,
then it CANNOT be relied on for navigation.
 On the summit of Great Gable, where youre
treated to stunning views of the Scafell range.
MATTHEW ROBERTS

CAN I TAKE MY DOG? zz WHERE SHOULD WHATS THE

You can, but preferably on a lead
and always under close control.
Dont let your dog impede other walkers and
be aware this is an important sheep grazing
area surrounded by farmland. The terrain is
a mix of constructed paths, scree, bare rock
and boulders, which can be harsh on a dogs
pads; so test them on similar routes irst.
SHOULD I HIRE
[ A GUIDE?
Booking a local guide can take the
stress out of organising your trip, and they
will enhance your walk with their excellent
knowledge of the local area. Make sure they
are well qualiied before booking, though.
Visit www.mountain-training.org/
z
S I STAY? BEST PUB?
Keswick, Wasdale, Borrowdale The Wasdale Head Inn is
and the surrounding areas have a huge legendary. Allegedly the birthplace
variety of accommodation options, ranging of British climbing and surrounded by
from campsites, inns, B&Bs and hostels Englands highest mountains at the head
to luxury hotels. The oicial tourist board of unspoiled Wasdale, this is a ine base for
website www.golakes.co.uk is a great walking. The food is good, the beer is even
place to start looking. better and there are lots accommodation
options. www.wasdale.com
Fleetwith Pike
Hay Stack
Hay Stacks
Dubs
Grey
Grey Knotts

walking/other/ind-a-leader for
EN Brandr
Brandreth
andreth
a list of recommended guides. NE
RD
A LBlack Sail Hut Seatoller
E YHA

TOP 5
WHATS THE Kirk Fell
Fell Green Gable
Green
Base Brow
Brow
own

WEATHER LIKE? Great

eat Gable
Heavy! The western Lakes sees Beck
Windy Gap
its fair share of rain and sleet, and Head Westmorland
estmorland Seathw
Seat hwaite
hwaite
Crag
Crag
snow, and wind. Low cloud and poor

INSIDER TIPS
Aa

Taylor
Taylor Gill
ro

Fo
Forc
rc
rce
nS

visibility are common enemies on Sphinx

lac

Rock
ock Seathw
Seathw
hwaite
aite F
Fell
ell
Scafell Pike, making its upper slopes
k

Napes
Needle
disorientating and tough to Styhead
Kern Tarn
navigate, so be sure to brush up Knotts

on your map and compass skills

Sty Head
before visiting. The Mountain Sprinkling
Weather Information Service Wasdale
asdale
Tarn
Head Burnthwaite
Burnthw
Burnth aite
website (www.mwis.org.uk) is
updated twice daily and the Met MAKE A
Oice Mountain Forecast (www.
WEEKEND OF IT
metoice.gov.uk) provides an
Youve got everything you need AVOID
hourly overview of the conditions
in the Wasdale valley if you want PIERS GILL
you could face on the summit. This narrow, deep ravine
to add some extra mountains to
CONSIDER A GPS below Lingmell is an accident
your visit. Great Gable,
HOW DO I If you start your walk in the dark, hotspot on the Corridor Route
Yewbarrow, Kirk Fell
CONTACT or in the low cloud that often thats been the scene of many
the biggest problem is
MOUNTAIN clings to these peaks, its easy to Mountain Rescue call-outs.
picking which one.
get separated from your group or
RESCUE? Should only be attempted by
lose the path. A quick GPS ix experienced scramblers.
First up, are you sure you need rescuing?
STOCK will pinpoint your exact
Being tired or running out of Snickers bars
location.
arent good enough reasons to mobilise a UP ON FOOD PACK A
busy team of volunteers. But if its a genuine You wont ind open shops in
emergency, and you believe you or one of Wasdale in the middle of the
HEADTORCH
If youre on the 24-hour
your party are in danger, dial 999 or 112 night, and even during the day
challenge theres a good
and ask for Police, then Mountain Rescue. your options are limited, so make
chance youll be tackling
sure you buy everything
a large chunk of this
you need before you
walk in the dark.
arrive.
57
SNOWDON

58
The sprawling mass of Snowdon viewed from
the air. The mountains main summit is in
the centre of the picture, with Y Lliwedd in
shadow to the east and Llyn Llydaw below.
TONY TRASMUNDI / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Wales highest
mountain:
1085m/3,560ft

59
SNOWDON
Final preparations for Everest were made in the deep
gullies of Y Lliwedd, with the Pen-y-Gwyrd Hotel at
the foot of the mountain serving as a rallying point
for that most illustrious of teams right up until, one
by one, they left the mountain and the rest of us
forever. The view from the summit has been evoked
memorably by Wordsworth (As I looked up, the Moon
hung naked in a firmament Of azure without cloud,
and at my feet Rested a silent sea of hoary mist) and
by a few million others since who have earned it by
all means, from axe and sweat, to railway and a 29
return ticket.
As with history, myth hangs thick on the mountain
and the two often intertwine. Rhitta the giant was
slain by Arthur, and buried on the summit hence its
Welsh name. The king himself is said to have died on
the mountain, disappearing into Llyn Llydaw, killed
obody knows Snowdon. Misconceptions cling to it by an enemy firing from Bwlch y Saethau (Pass of the

N
like its own malignant weather systems. Its cursed Arrows). Perhaps the myths are a casualty of ridiculous
with being The Highest Peak in Wales, therefore ambience. But within the curl of its many valleys and
everyones opinion is primed and armed before the gullies in the magical moments of transition between
beasts even left the cage. Highest? Pah. Highest is for showers, there are times when you dont watch the
tourists. Snowdon is nothing more than a once-grand mountain so much as the mountain watches you.
pompadour of a mountain now defiled by a caf on Snowdons physical complexity and concentrated
the top and a train up the side and a queue everywhere atmosphere are echoed in its schizophrenic personality
Top left: above else. Right? A ghetto for people who climb one hill and fickle temper: one day the seal, another day the
the clouds on
Snowdons in their life, and want it, need it, to be the highest. shark. In summer the top can be a throng of every
summit, looking Climbing a mountain is about quality, not mere demographic of outdoor aspirant from bemused
down on the altitude, surely. Let Snowdon sponge up the crowds, day-trippers to over-awed first-time walkers and the
world below.
and well go off and find summits of proper quality occasional knackered mountaineer. In the winter,
JAMES OSMOND
/ ALAMY STOCK Do you believe that? Its Snowdons greatest trick, the mountain turns its skin inside out and becomes a
PHOTO and more fool you if it catches you out. wasteland of desperate cold and desolation that is both
Truth: this magnificent chunk of geological muscle shocking and awesome.
is perhaps Britains most complete peak. Within its So strip back the perceptions. Leave them in the car.
sway are some of the most intimidating places in Take a deep breath of fragrantly chilly spring air, and
Britain. Just for example is the cloud-coursed ridge wander up to the point where the Pyg Track kinks to
of Crib Goch, a buzz-saw of exposed, angled rock the right above Llyn Llydaw, and Snowdons north-
that cuts the crowds into three ragged demographics: east face drops its veil, revealing the sharp, tall peak of
those who climb it and love it; those who wont go Yr Wyddfa, the grave. Now tell us that this mountain
anywhere near it and leave it well alone; and those doesnt take your breath away and for all the reasons
who fall uneasily in the middle. that matter. Climb it a hundred times and you still
The amount of naked rock the mountain flaunts is wont really know it. But know this: Snowdon is a
indecent, with its summit not an indistinct plateau mountain of thrills, and a mountain for climbing.
nippled by a trig point, but a spectacular pyramid that So climb it. And be thrilled.. Words Simon Ingram
climbs to a true apex. Hanging from it like so much
bling are some of the
most illustrious mountain
artefacts, places where
great and daring deeds
have dazzled into history.
Trinity Face, Clogwyn
y Person Arte, and the
legendary Clogwyn Dur
Arddu the black cliff,
and finest climbing crag
in Wales, some say the
world are criss-crossed
by routes steepled by
some of the mountain
legends who revered
Right: looking Snowdon: Geoffrey
down on Glaslyn, Winthrop Young, George
with Snowdons
Mallory, Edmund
summit pyramid
towering above. Hillary, Joe Brown, Don
TOM BAILEY Whillans, Johnny Dawes.

60
Snowdon: The mountains Welsh name

Yr Wyddfa
means tomb or burial ground, whereas

a miscellany the Anglo-Saxon word snowdon is

thought to mean snow hill.

Giants, kings, monsters and over half a million walkers

every year have all fallen under Snowdons spell.
Snowdon might be the tallest mountain in England

The irst recorded ascent of Snowdon was

and Wales, but its only the 57th highest peak in

in 1639 by the botanist Thomas Johnson.

Britain. Theres no disputing its popularity, The unique plantlife
though: about Snowdons of the mountain in
summit was particular the rare

500,000
people summit it each year.
once inhabited
by Rhitta, a giant
dressed in a cape he
Snowdon lily that
grows on its most
steep and remote
fashioned from the slopes has led to its
beards of enemies. designation as a
He was eventually National Nature
killed by King Arthur. Reserve.

6.4km
The distance to the summit via the
popular Miners Track for walkers
ascending from Pen-y-Pass.

3 20
Number of Snowdon
The number of metres left to walk to
caf sausage rolls you
Snowdons summit for people who catch
burn of while
the train up from Llanberis.
ascending the
Pyg Track.

The wettest place in

Britain is oicially The clifs of Snowdon, in
Crib Goch. Snowdons particular Clogwyn Dur Arddu,

Glaslyn most fearsome ridge has

attracted an average of
are renowned rock-climbing
venues. They were famously
the lake below Snowdons summit has more
used as training grounds by
legend grafted to it than is fair for its modest
dimensions. Apparently its bottomless, the
176 mountaineering legends George

home of a monster, the resting place for Excalibur

and the site of King Arthurs inal voyage to
inches Mallory and Edmund Hillary
before their respective

Avalon among many others. But perhaps what (4473mm) attempts climbs to
climb Everest.
Glaslyn demonstrates most dramatically of rain a year for the
is what a stunning mountain Snowdon is. past 30 years.

Construction of the Snowdon Mountain

Railway began in 1894, and well over a century
later it is still a hugely popular tourist attraction,
travelling for 7.6km from the town of Llanberis
to the mountains 1085m summit.

22
Cost of a single train ticket from
Snowdons summit to Llanberis
if you dont have the energy to
make the return journey. Its
closed in winter, though!

61
62
 Walking on the early stages of the Pyg Track near Pen-y-Pass,
with the awesome sight of Crib Goch rising in the distance.
TREKKINGIMAGES / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

E N GE R O
LL
A

UT
CH

SNOWDON
E

PYG TRACK
This little path with massive views unlocks
Snowdons summit for a wide range of walkers.
WORDS SIMON INGRAM

ould there be a

C
mountain path that
strikes such an exquisite
balance between
accessibility and
fully-loaded reward
than Snowdons Pyg Track? If there
is, we dont know of it. At once this
enigmatically christened route asserts
itself as a happily clear yet rugged
feeling route up the mountain
which also shows Wales highest
peak off at its most ballistic angle.
63
CHALLENGE ROUTE

Theres an old story that a visitor from Switzerland
(a mountain guide, no less) once rounded what is locally
known as the turn on the Pyg Track early one spring
afternoon. Upon being greeted with the blunt pyramid
of Snowdons north-east face he balked, and strongly
intimated to his party that there was nowhere near
enough light to achieve a summit that day, and that
theyd best turn back.
Yr Wyddfa The view of Snowdons summit from this point on
the summit of the Pyg Track which, incidentally, is around three
Snowdon at hours away does have that trip-on-your-breath effect.
sunrise and
the stone pillar It looks like a proper mountain. Catch it in perfect
at the head of winter conditions and it could give Everest a run for
the Pyg Track. its money in terms of mastery of the magisterial
JULIAN
natural triangle stakes, as ludicrous as that seems.
CARTWRIGHT /
ALAMY STOCK The Pyg Track sometimes called the Pig Track and
PHOTO often promoted to the acronym PYG has a multitude
of possible derivations, all of them quite plausible.
One theory is that the acronym relates to the nearby
Pen-y-Gwyrd Hotel, roost of former Everest heroes and
much-mythologised mountain pub. Another is that it
takes its name from Bwlch y Moch, the pass it crosses,
which literally translates as the Pass of the Pigs.
Perhaps the most persuasive is that the track was used
to transport pyg allegedly an old Welsh word for tar
to the copper mines in Cwm Glaslyn.
Names aside, the track takes a remarkable line
across the Snowdon massif first climbing the outer
edge of the horseshoe, crossing the toe of Crib Goch,
then entering the great amphitheatre of the mountain
and hugging its northern wall. The views are intimate
and occupy every angle above, around and below.
At your feet the mountain drops deeply to Llyn Lydaw
and, later, Glaslyn dark lakes with a deep mythology.
Across the crater are the crags of Y Lliwedd, some of
the biggest cliffs outside of Scotland; and to your right
you trace the base of Crib Goch, where 1,000ft above
scramblers will be having a far more nerve-racking
experience on their way to the same destination.
One or two cracking photo stops later with the
vision of Snowdons awesome north-east face your
companion all the way you climb into the mountains
rafters. In these higher reaches it becomes steep, but the
inhospitable angle remains assailable. Look behind here
to see the plunge of Snowdons angle assert itself in the
view as you rise towards its high point: from certain
aspects, this is a ferociously steep mountain.
Now you meet the linear railway line, which glides
up to meet the path on its final few feet to the top,
dropping away just in time for you to enjoy the last few
spectacular feet to the summit. A fitting end to a path
that, if not a path that has it all exactly, blends the best
of all worlds into one incredibly rewarding package.

ROUTE GUIDE

Snowdon Pyg Track

 Strenuousness VVV Navigation VVV Technicality VVV
SH647555 After above the concealed Llanberis Path (bridleway) marker turn east and
1 leaving your car or mountain lake of Glaslyn. that is taken south then descend the zigzags towards ROUTE STATS
taking the bus to Pen-y- south-south-east to Glaslyn. Midway down the
Distance 10.6km
Pass, take the Pyg Track SH614548 From the Snowdons summit, which is corrie head wall the path
west-south-west to
3junction climb the marked by an elevated trig splits. Take the left-hand
(6 miles)
Total ascent 750m
Bwlch y Moch. steep zigzags west up the point, a large grey caf fork (the right is the Miners
head wall to Bwlch Glas, building and often Track) and follow it east Time 6 hours
SH634553 Cross which is marked by a large hundreds of people! then east-north-east across Start/inish car park at
2 Bwlch y Moch and stone inger post a handy the southern slopes of Crib Pen-y-Pass (SH647555)
continue west-south-west navigational waypoint in SH609543 To descend Goch to Bwlch y Moch. Terrain rocky slopes,
then west as the path skirts poor weather conditions.
5 from the summit Continue east-north-east craggy corries, steep head
across the southern slopes station take the bridleway across Bwlch y Moch then wall, exposed col and broad
of Crib Goch to a junction SH608548 At Bwlch north-north-west back to make the inal descent summit ridge; easy-to-
with the Miners Track high
4 Glas the path joins the Bwlch Glas. At the stone to Pen-y-Pass. follow paths and tracks
with some steep sections.
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Pyg Track Snowdon Finish The zigzags are prone to
1400 hard snow and ice in winter
1200
METRES 1000 Maps OS Landranger
ABOVE 800 (1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer
SEA 600
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5 (1:25,000) 17; Harvey
200 British Mountain Maps
MILES 0 2 4 6 (1:40,000) Snowdonia
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10

64
 Lake Glaslyn nestles beneath Snowdon's

At your feet the mountain drops summit, with the Pyg Track snaking up the
lower slopes of Crib Goch to the right.
JOHN RAWSTERNE / ALAMY

deeply to Llyn Lydaw and Glaslyn STOCK PHOTO

CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16

dark lakes with a deep mythology.

1
2

3
4

65
 SSIC ROU
CL A

TE
SNOWDON

THE SOUTH
RIDGE
Quiet and remote, angular and adventurous;
this is the side of Snowdon youre
not supposed to know about.
WORDS SIMON INGRAM

C
onsidering it is such a gigantic visual feature on the
mountain, Snowdons south ridge is a big surprise
when you find it. This is emphasised when you
approach it from Rhyd-Ddu, the small community
nestled on the south-west flank of the mountain.
Here, there are no pinched mountain passes or
bustling car parks; this is the quiet side of Snowdon, and it feels it.
Thats not to say nobody walks up the mountain from here:
there are several major paths that ascend from this direction,
including the Snowdon Ranger Path and the eponymous Rhyd-
Ddu Path, both of which are... fine. No, theyre more than fine,
theyre lovely. The Ranger is Snowdons oldest path and the
Rhyd-Ddu has staggering views of the mess of historic crags
in the colossal north-western cwm.
But theres an elephant in the room on both of these approaches.
Its what could be the finest of Snowdons natural features: a burly
ridge ascending north, arrow-straight for over a kilometre before
suddenly jagging north-east for the very summit of Wales. This is
the south ridge.

66
Looking down Snowdons south ridge, with
the 747m summit of Yr Aran to the left and
Moel Hebog (783m) in the background.
THE PHOTOLIBRARY WALES / ALAMY
STOCK PHOTO

67
CLASSIC ROUTE

Sizing up the The south ridge is the best way up Snowdon. This
challenge ahead: is only said by people who know what theyre talking
Snowdons south
ridge in all its
about, regardless whether you end up agreeing with
glory from the them. This is because relatively few people know about
lower slopes of the south ridge. Snowdon is incredibly complex as a
Yr Aran.
mountain. Just when you think youve got your bearings
TOM BAILEY
on its form, you suddenly realise that hang on, theres
another spur, another set of valleys, another hidden lake
further round the slender-limbed starfish of ridgelines.
The south ridge hides in plain sight. Its huge
visible from many parts on the mountain but rarely
considered as a route. This is despite it being the most
aesthetically pure line up the mountain imaginable,
ascending from 500m to the 1085m summit in a
single steady, sharpened ramp with sheer sides and a
satisfyingly lofty crest. Perhaps its the slightly out-
of-the-way start point, or the prevalence of more
established routes either side that means it sees a
fraction of the traffic it deserves. Still, no bad thing.
When approached from Rhyd-Ddu, the base of the
ridge sits to the left of a tight gap known as the Bwlch
Cwm Llan. To the right, the worthwhile satellite peak
of Yr Aran (747m) is a short scramble away above you,
and worth the effort if you want an overview of what
youre about to ascend.
The ridge itself begins: from a wall, a path slinks
between stepped crags and starts to ascend, briskly.
Soon air is gained, and you start to lift above the deep
valleys of Snowdons southern reaches. A drop begins to
form to your right: the Clogwyn Du, the Black Cliff,
where there are long rock climbs with evocative names,
such as Shadow Gully and Crystal Rib, that are only
attempted by the most intrepid of Snowdonian rock
climbers. Beneath, the high-tucked Cwm Tregalan,

ROUTE GUIDE

Snowdon South Ridge

 Strenuousness VVV Navigation VVV Technicality VVVVV
SH571525 Head up to right, then continue SH605521 This is a need your hands on Snowdons summit, with
1 the top of the car park, easily between rocky 2 good place to take a occasion, but the crest the caf clearly visible
and turn right to cross the knolls and outcrops. After quick breather, because the can be avoided if you above you.
railway and gain a broad, 1.5km, almost immediately next section is a steep pull feel uncomfortable.
stony track that was once after crossing a wall, ignore up to your left on a path that SH609543 If you can
a quarry road. Follow this the track through a gate leads straight to the 704m SH605537 At Bwlch
4 get the summit to
around to the right and on your left waymarked rocky outpost of Allt
3 Main youll meet the yourself (unlikely in high
keep right, almost to Snowdon summit. Maenderyn. From here Rhyd-Ddu Path coming up summer), its a great place
immediately at the junction Your route continues east Snowdons south ridge from your left. Remember to be with amazing views
with the drive of Fridd-Isaf along a broad track that stretches out before you, this point, because thats especially over Glaslyn and
farm. Continue past a eventually leads through providing over a kilometre the route youll be taking in the eastern cwm to the
modern-looking barn on the old quarry buildings into of wonderful high-level descent. At Bwlch Main the jagged crest of Crib Goch,
left and the old quarry and the deep notch of Bwlch walking. Some sections can path swings north-east up which looks notably lower
its ruined buildings on the Cwm Llan. feel exposed and you may a narrowing ridge towards from here. To descend, head
back down the ridge youve
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Allt Maenderyn Snowdon Rhyd-Ddu Path Finish just ascended to Bwlch Main.
1400 This time take the right fork
1200
that descends a series of
METRES 1000
ABOVE 800 steep zigzags then swings
SEA 600
around the top of Llechog,
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5
200 with amazing views over
MILES 0 2 4 6 the gaping chasm of Cwm
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 Clogwyn to the imposing

68
 A quiet route that feels like a
proper mountaineers route.

with its peculiar graveyard-like scattering of planted The rewards are immense: a quiet route that feels like The south ridge
and Snowdons
slate fragments. a proper mountaineers route, which only joins one summit in the full
As it climbs you get predictably stellar views of the main paths to the summit of Snowdon along grip of winter. In
seemingly, the whole of Snowdonia opens at your feet, the level rocky narrowing named on the map as the these conditions
but so do some intimate views of Snowdon itself. The linguistically ambiguous Bwlch Main, which translates the mountain
becomes a
top of the peak appears as an apex towards which youre from Welsh to the more arresting Thin Pass. very different
climbing, as the ridge you are moving along sharpens. Here the angle rakes further and you make the final challenge
Regardless of the views and the solitude, it is what is steps onto Snowdons summit but while this is a brief, with an ice axe,
crampons and
happening under your feet which is the real thrill on the swiftly thrilling end to the ascent for most who come
the skills to use
south ridge. It straddles a very pleasing middle-ground this way via the Ranger or Rhyd-Ddu paths, for you them essential.
between walking and scrambling. Its never frightening, its simply the highest point of a scintillating ridge-alk, TOM BAILEY
or possessive of the technicality of something like Crib which keeps you engaged every step of the way.
Goch (see next page). And yet its far more involved
than something like the Miners Track, demanding of
at least a consolidated head for heights, and a desire
to touch your hands to the rock every now and again.
Near the start (or the end) of the
walk on the Rhyd-Du Path.
TOM BAILEY

ROUTE STATS
Distance 10.5km (6 miles)
Total ascent 1180m
Time 5-6 hours
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
is exciting rocky terrain,
especially on the south ridge,
but you can keep away from
4

the most exposed sections

Start/inish car park in
Rhyd-Ddu (SH571525) Maps OS Landranger
(1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer
Terrain mainly good paths
(1:25,000) 17; Harvey
over steep hillsides but there
British Mountain Maps
are a couple of places where
(1:40,000) Snowdonia
hands may be needed; this

3
and often forgotten west
face of Snowdon. The
path eventually
breaks left then
threads its way
down fairly steep
and rocky ground
back to the 1
path you left 5
Rhyd-Ddu on
at the start
of the walk.
2
SH583525 From
5 here turn right and
follow your outward route
back to the car park.

69
A seldom seen view, looking back down
Crib Goch from high on Snowdon.
The ridge looks slightly less daunting
from this angle, but dont be fooled!
ROB FORD/ALAMY

P
utting one foot in front of the other doesnt
usually take much concentration. Left, right,
left, right you know the drill. Walkings a
skill you master in toddlerhood after that you
rarely think too much about it. Its as natural
as breathing and burping, and it requires
something momentous for you to forget how to do it.
Crib Goch is that something. Its a 1000m high walkway as
narrow as a drystone wall in parts, with a stomach-lurching
drop on either side. This rock staircase rivals all other
scrambles in England and Wales. Its the Grade 1 that would
win The X Factor, the one every self-respecting hillwalker
wants under their belt because although the drop looks
beautifully terrifying from this sharp-edged spine, you can
nail it with some carefully placed footsteps. It knocks the
socks off the other paths to Snowdons summit.
Crib Goch looks like a long, steep-sided house roof. Thats
a house roof 2km long, scraping the Snowdonia skyline
with tiles of grey rock, smoothed by countless bootsoles and
loosened by centuries of foul weather.

70
 LING R
MB

O
A
S CR

UT
SNOWDON

E
CRIB GOCH
The blade-like ridge of Crib Goch is Snowdons
ultimate test of nerve and the first leg of the mountains
legendary horsehoe. But how hard is it? Read on to find out...
WORDS CLAIRE MAXTED

71
SCRAMBLING ROUTE
It slithers up Snowdon from the east, and one look at
this twisting beast of a ridge-walk could turn your
legs to stone. But only if you let it.
The great thing about Crib Goch is that despite
having a drop either side likely to strike panic into the
heart of the hardiest mountain goat regular walkers
can do it in calm, clear weather conditions so long as
their head for heights is well and truly screwed on.
Stop looking over your shoulder, because that regular
walker is you. And, er, me. So Im about to prove it by
tackling Crib Goch and the full Snowdon horseshoe.
The lakes of Glaslyn Luckily, today is beautiful. The sun lights up the
and Llyn Llydaw, with swooping crags of the Snowdon massif as we arrive at
the stunning peak Pen-y-Pass. As we gain height, the grass gives way to
of Y Lliwedd rising
above them. shards of shattered rock that plink under our boots like
TOM BAILEY upturned pencils. Soon I can see the whole spiky outline
of the ridge as it curves up and around to Snowdon. Its
chiselled turrets jab at a fairytale blue sky and my heart
starts to beat faster.
But hang on. I can make out some stick people on the
ridge, silhouetted against the sun. The fact that there
are people already balancing there puts the knife-edge
into perspective, and I slot it into the box of things
marked doable in my head. We press on to the junction
where Crib Gochs north and east ridges meet, and find
a family guarding their sandwiches from seagulls on
the rock table that marks the start of the ridge.
Crib Goch means Red Comb, and from here the thin
walkway sure looks hair-raising. The first 250m is the
width of a drystone wall, but at skyscraper height. I
stop to let the sandwich-scoffing family go first. Their
dog runs past and Im suddenly insanely jealous of its
four legs. Until this reminds me that I have
hands to grab the rock with if necessary.
I take a deep breath. I can do this.
Drystone wall? No problem.
The merciless 500m drop past the Pyg Track
to the Miners Track below quietens to a back-
of-the-mind niggle as I remember at last how to
put one foot in front of the other. A silent gap
in the breeze celebrates my first step onto Crib
Goch. There are no easy escape routes off this
ridge, but theres no way Im turning back now.
Left foot, right foot and dont look at
the drop, I mutter to myself. Left foot,
right footupffbit of a left hand here,
a right hand grab there, dont look at the
oh, heck! I wobble on a jagged piece of
rock, and my heart fills my chest like a giant
undigested kebab. Uh-oh.
This first section isnt a place to admire
the view while you walk: every ounce of

ROUTE GUIDE

Snowdon Horseshoe via Crib Goch

 Strenuousness VVV Navigation VVV Technicality V(scramble)
SH647555 Pen-y-Pass crest of the saddle towards only option. Scramble Garnedd Ugain, which reach a tall standing stone,
1 is a popular place to the obvious blunt nose of carefully along it, using ofers more scrambling for where you turn left to
park, so arrive early if you Crib Goch ahead. Make as the crest itself for holds those who want it, or a good follow an awkward, loose
want to be sure of a space direct an assault here as when the going gets steep. path for those who have path down into Bwlch y
or catch the bus up from you feel comfortable with, Continue like this to the irst had enough. Either way, Saethau. Now follow the
Llanberis. Head out from the and after the opening steep of the pinnacles, which can continue along the ridge to good path towards Y
top of the car park onto an section the grade eases be scrambled easily enough the 1065m trig point and Lliwedd and then, as it
obvious path, marked as the and you are left with a or bypassed on clear paths, keep ahead to drop to Bwlch bears right, keep ahead to
Pyg Track. Follow this easily delightful staircase of before a second similar Glas, where you meet the follow the crest of the
across the hillside, climbing small, blocky holds that pinnacle soon blocks your main path from Llanberis ridge. This soon jacks up
steadily as you go until you enable easy progress up progress. This too can be and the railway line. Head into a steep, scrambly path,
arrive at the deeply cut the eastern summit. scrambled easily enough or left to Snowdons summit. leading onto Y Lliwedds
saddle of Bwlch y Moch. bypassed on a narrow path. 898m West Peak.
SH625552 Scramble Continue into Bwlch Coch. SH609543 To
SH633552 Scramble
3 Theres little chance
5 descend, continue in SH622533 Continue
2 Turn right and follow of going wrong now, as the SH621551 Ahead the same direction to follow
6 over the East Peak and
the clear path along the narrow ridge ahead is the
4 now lies the peak of the south ridge until you follow the escarpment
along over Lliwedd Bach
GRADIENT
PROFILE Start Crib Goch Garnedd Ugain Snowdon Y Lliwedd Finish before the path bears left to
1400 descend steeply to join the
1200
Miners Track by the shores
METRES 1000
ABOVE 800 of Llyn Llydaw. Turn right
SEA 600 onto this and follow it
LEVEL 400 1 2 3 4 5 6
200 easily back down to the
MILES 0 2 4 6 car park at Pen-y-Pass.
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10

72
concentration is now directed at my boots, as if
will power alone can leak out of my laces and
stick me to the rock. Stray bits of Crib Goch
lurch up in an effort to spin me into 500m of
free fall. I spread my arms wide for balance, as
if Im about to greet a long-lost friend with a
hug, and Im so absorbed in my balancing act
that I forget to look ahead.
All of a sudden theres a wall of rock in my
way. Crib Gochs three pillars stand sentinel
between me and the next part of the ridge.
They make a linear, mini-Stonehenge at an
altitude of roughly 900m. My fear-the-drop
niggle does a runner and I feel like a hardcore
scrambler pulling myself up the middle pillar
to take a well-earned rest. And gloat. I lean
over the exposed ledge and look back at what
I was teetering across just moments ago. The
sheer drop either side slices down in a dizzying rest. I test it for wobbliness. Good. Its stuck, reluctant Despite its fearsome
tumble of sharp boulders reflected in Glaslyn and Llyn to end its thousand-year relationship with the rest of the appearance, the
technicality of
Llydaw rippling 500m below. The two glacial lakes mountain. My bum starts to freeze on the cold rock as I Crib Goch never
nestle in the long arms of the magnificent Snowdon sit there, gawping at the natural rooftop weve walked. rises above Grade 1
horseshoe, which curves all the way round to the We havent reached the halfway point of our route scrambling.
knotted cliffs of Y Lliwedd. yet, or Snowdons summit for that matter, but its hard TOM BAILEY

After the pinnacles we reach the wind-harried notch
of Bwlch Coch, the official end point of Crib Goch.
But the ordeal isnt over yet the ridge is just officially
known as Crib-y-Ddysgl from now on. The path is
wider, the hard part is over and my hearts back to its
normal beat. Yet the ridge holds one last surprise.
Blocky, granite slabs jut out of the mountainside
ahead. Shaped like giant pitta breads, theyre stacked up
and jumbled, pointing in all different directions. There
are many different routes and the climbs almost over,
but I want the day to last a little longer. I scramble up
grippy slabs to a flake that jabs out further than the
to believe well encounter anything on the horseshoe to
match this. The views back across to Crib Goch from
Y Lliwedd later in the day are incredible, but nothing
comes close to the experience of the scramble itself.
Fond memories are already jostling for room in my
head: my moment of hesitation is elbowed out of the
way by a surge of pride. Flashes of jealousy at that
fearless dog are blasted away Ive climbed Crib Gochs
pillars and gazed at Snowdon from a ledge the size of a
Monopoly board. The most famous Grade 1 scramble
in Britain is under my belt. And to think I forgot how to
walk at the start. Now I just want to do it again.

CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16
3
4 2

ROUTE STATS
Distance 11km (7 miles)
5 Total ascent 1200m
Time 6 hours
Start/inish car park at
Pen-y-Pass (SH647555)
Terrain a high-level
mountain walk with some
sections of very exposed
but technically simple
Grade 1 scrambling on
6 the ascent of Crib Goch,
the subsequent traverse
and the continuation to
Garnedd Ugain
Maps OS Landranger
(1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer
(1:25,000) 17; Harvey
British Mountain Maps
(1:40,000) Snowdonia
73
 SNOWDON
VIA MOEL
EILIO
10.5km/6 miles

7 more
 Strenuousness VVVV
Navigation VVVV
Technicality VVV
A stunning, rolling ridge that takes
in several satellite tops including

routes to
Foel Goch, Foel Gron and Moel Eilio.
The highlight is the summit of Moel
Cynghorion, where a look back towards
Snowdon rewards you with
a view to stun: the entire western
aspect, with the legendary clifs of

the top
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in front of you.
Best in descent, for the superb
views and pleasing line. Plus, it's
a slog to walk up from Llanberis.

RHYD-DDU PATH

Rhyd-Ddu
Llyn y
Gader

N
NORTH

5
The Snowdon 08
A4
Summit
Visitor Centre, RHYD-DDU SNOWDON
which serves
PATH RANGER
n
l wy
everything from
Welsh oggies to Co
cream cakes. 6km/3 miles 6.4km/4 miles
nt
Na

THE
PHOTOLIBRARY
 Strenuousness VVV
WALES / ALAMY Navigation VVV
STOCK PHOTO
Technicality VVV
Snowdon's oft forgotten route has one
big plus: it takes you on a high traverse
around the edge of Cwm Clogwyn, the
monstrous western corrie beneath
Snowdon's summit pyramid. The craggy
rim of Llechlog is a particular highlight,
and the path's steady ascent has made
it popular with mountain bikers.
Best in ascent, as a slow-building
attack which takes in the climax
of the south ridge.
 Strenuousness VVV
Navigation VV
Technicality VV
The oldest route on the mountain, and
it shows. A slow crawl up or a leisurely
meander down, it's very similar in
diiculty to the Llanberis Path, but has a
more pleasant feel to it. It's popular with
mountain bikers, though, so be warned... 98
Best in either direction however
A4
the views are better in ascent.
Beddgelert

The ferociously
WATKIN PATH steep upper
sections of the
Pleasingly green and staggeringly 6.4km/4 miles Watkin Path.
TOM BAILEY
steep up top, the Watkin Path is a
well-built route full of interest  Strenuousness VVV
that twists and turns up Snowdon Navigation VVV
from pleasant Nantgwynant.
Gorgeous views abound whichever
Technicality VVVV
way you tackle it, making this a Best in ascent, as it's easier to
splendid middle-of-the-road option. maintain your heading from below.

74
 LLANBERIS PATH
Perhaps Snowdon's most
pedestrian route (and certainly
the busiest) the long Llanberis
LL PATH
path takes broadly the same line
as the Snowdon mountain railway.
A nice lip-side to a strenuous
ascent, but something of a 8km/5 miles
motorway and home to a nasty
blackspot in winter, so take care.  Strenuousness VVV
Best in descent, as it's gentle on Navigation VV
the knees and the warm pubs
of Llanberis are at the end.
Technicality VVV

LLANBERIS PATH
Llanberis MINERS
VIA MOEL EILIO
Foel Goch
TRACK
6km/3 miles
Moel Cynghorion
 Strenuousness VVV
YHA Navigation VVV
Snowdon Technicality VVV
Ranger
Llyn For reasons linked to its name, the
Cwellyn YHA irst 4km to Glaslyn are the easiest
SNOWDON RANGER Crib y Ddysgl on Snowdon and replete with much in
Bwlch Glas the way of industrial ruin. From there,
Cwm Clogwyn a rocky ascent meets the Pyg Track
Snowdon and the two join hands to the top.
Crib Goch Best in ascent, but also handy for
a fast descent to Pen-y-Pass.
Bwlch

L
Main Glaslyn

LA
Bwlch

NB
y Saethau
R

E
IS
Cwm Caregog P
A
S
Allt Maenderyn S
MINERS' TRACK
Cwm Tregalan
YHA
YHA
Y Lliwedd Llyn Llydaw Pen-y-Pass
A40
Yr Aran 86
VIA Y LLIWEDD Pen-y-Gwryd
Craig Wen

Bwlch y Gwyddel
Gwrddel
Cwm Dyli
Cwm Llan Gladstone
Rock
Gallt y Wenallt 98
A4

Gwastadannas
Gwastadnnas

Bethania
Bethinia
Llyn Gwynant

Nantgwynant YHA
NOTE: DISTANCES ARE ONE-WAY ONLY
Llyn Dinas WATKIN PATH

Descending towards Y Lliwedd

from Snowdons summit
TOM BAILEY
VIA Y LLIWEDD
The mirror to Crib Goch across Llyn 6.4km/4 miles
Llydaw, Y Lliwedd is a staggering
mountain in its own right. A descent  Strenuousness VVV
across its crest completes the Snowdon Navigation VVV
horseshoe in grand (if knackering) style
with a near-vertical clif to your left Technicality VVVV
and an absolutely extraordinary Best in descent, as it's long,
view everywhere else. steep and diicult to climb up.

75
SNOWDON

Snowdon Crib Goch 2

SH617551 This is where
Crib Goch rears up again

danger spots
with an imposing rock tower
that deflects people to the
left (south). Several small
footpaths also develop in this
area, which cross some steep
and unpleasant ground.

Come bad or cold weather, Wales highest mountain

turns hazardous and some of the most dangerous spots
lie in the most unexpected places. Here we highlight
BRIAN GRANGER / WWW.VRAP.CO.UK

the principal areas where extra concentration is required

Crib Goch 1
SH627552
The irst major
rock step on
Crib Goch.
CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. CROWN COPYRIGHT 2016 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 042/16

A surprising
number of
people who
arrive at
this point think theyre heading
for Snowdon which they are
eventually, if theyre fortunate
and prepared; but if theyre
unprepared for the exposure of
Crib Goch, they could be climbing
themselves into a trap they may
ind it very diicult to retreat from.
Crib Goch 3
SH615552 In poor weather
some people pick up the top
of the Clogwyn y Person
arte. They mistakenly
think this is the main ridge
and continue descending
until they either realise
what theyre doing, or
it becomes too late.

Beautiful but
potentially deadly:
Wales highest peak
under snow.

76
 South-east ridge
SH610543 near the summit, to
SH614541 near Bwlchy Saethau.
People often try to descend this
as they cant ind the start of the
Watkin Path. It is possible either
in descent or ascent but the
ground is loose and dangerous
with a big drop to the north.
Crib Goch 4
SH614552
Heres another area
that tends to deflect
people away from the
ridge and to the south
very loose, rocky
and unpleasant.
Watkin Path
SH609542 At the top of the
Watkin Path there are several
paths. Due to the nature of the
terrain they are often confusing
as they appear and disappear.
This area is very loose, and the
ground is slippy, slaty and quite
steep so a mistake can be costly.
Llanberis Path
SH609557 This is the
railway cutting of the
Llanberis descent, which
can ill with snow and then
freeze. This route is often
seen as an easy-to-follow
descent in poor conditions in
winter but where it passes
above a convex slope, it is
very dangerous. There have
been fatalities here. A safer option if you ind yourself here
may be to detour and descend via the Snowdon Ranger Path
(seen heading west of the bottom left of this square),
rather than trying to re-ind the Llanberis Path.
77

Climbing Snowdon:
common questions
HOW HARD IS IT?
 Ranging from straightforward
to scary, Snowdon is probably
one of the UKs most dangerous mountains
due to the sheer variety of routes and their
wildly diferent levels of exposure and
technicality. On a clear day the Llanberis
Path can feel like a long uphill stroll, but ind
yourself on the razor-sharp ridge of Crib
Goch and youll face a severe test of nerve
and scrambling ability. Snowdon is an
awesome, fearsome mountain with highly
changeable weather, plus clifs and artes
that will make your knees tremble.
Select your route wisely.
HOW LONG DOES
IT TAKE?
That very much depends on your
route (there are 10 recognised ways to the
summit of Snowdon) and level of itness.
The Pen-y-Pass car park at an altitude
of 359m means an ascent via the Pyg
or Miners Tracks can see you reach the
summit in less than 3 hours, whereas
longer routes such as the Llanberis Path
or south ridge are likely to take much longer.
Do your research before setting of.
HOW DO I GET THERE?
BY CAR
Snowdon is a huge, sprawling
mountain with many access
points, but the two main ways to reach it
are via the A55 from the north or A5 from
the south. The A55 dual carriageway runs
along the north coast of Wales before
breaking of near Bangor on the A4244
to Llanberis. The A5 travels into Wales
via Shropshire, through Betws-y-Coed
and into Capel Curig, where you turn left
on the A4086 towards Snowdon and the
Pass of Llanberis. Where youre planning
to start your walk from will determine
how much driving you still need to do
once you reach the mountain.
Nearest 24-hour petrol station
Bangor Service Station, just of the
A55 (postcode LL57 4BO).
78
SNOWDON
BY BUS
The Snowdon Sherpa bus network
shuttles around the base of the
mountain, connecting various footpaths
and surrounding villages. Its a great service
that if the timings match up allows
you to walk up one path and descend a
diferent one, then still make it back to
your starting point. Find a full timetable at
www.gwynedd.gov.uk/timetables
BY TRAIN
If you hadnt heard, theres a rather
impressive train that will take you
all the way to Snowdons 1085m summit
from Llanberis (www.snowdonrailway.
co.uk); but assuming you want to walk
or scramble up the mountain the most
convenient train stations to access it
from are Bangor and Betws-y-Coed.
P
WHERE DO I PARK?
The pay and display Pen-y-Pass car
park (grid ref SH647556, postcode
LL55 4NY) is the most popular place as it
gives direct access to the Pyg and Miners
Tracks, plus Crib Goch and the full Snowdon
Horseshoe. However, it costs 10 per day
and ills up quickly so it may be worth
parking lower down and catching the
Sherpa bus up. There are plenty of parking
options in Llanberis and on the opposite side
of the mountain if youre planning to walk
from Rhyd-Ddu or Nantgwynant.
WHERE CAN I BUY
T FOOD & DRINK?
Make sure you take supplies to
last the whole day. There is a caf on top of
Snowdon, which serves great food, but you
should never rely on it. Its best to carry too
much and not need it, and there are plenty
of places to stock up on the way to the peak.
Nearest supermarket Londis, Llanberis,
LL55 4SU (Mon-Fri 6am-10pm, Sat 6.30am-
10pm, Sun 7am-10pm)
ARE THERE BINS
ON THE MOUNTAIN?
Litter is a huge problem on
Snowdon due to this being one of the worlds
busiest mountains, and disposing of waste
has become costly for the National Park.
Note there are no bins at Pen-y-Pass, and
youre asked to take all litter home with you.
WHAT ABOUT LOOS?
The nearest are at Pen-y-Pass.
See page 32 for advice on what
to do if youre caught short on the hill...
WILL MY MOBILE
WORK?
Mobile reception in Snowdonia is
notoriously poor and there is no signal at
Pen-y-Pass. The higher you get, the better
the signal may become but its unreliable.
If youre using a GPS app that needs 3G,
it CANNOT be relied on for navigation.
CAN I TAKE MY DOG?
You can, but always under close
control. Snowdon is a busy
mountain so dont let your dog impede
other walkers and be aware that this is an
important sheep grazing area. The terrain
is a mixture of paths, scree, bare rock and
ridges, which can be harsh on a dogs pads,
so test them on similar routes irst.
 A classic view of the sprawling
Snowdon range in perfect weather.
TOM BAILEY

SHOULD I HIRE WHERE SHOULD WHATS THE

[ A GUIDE?
Booking a local guide can take the
stress out of organising your trip, and they
will enhance your walk with their excellent
knowledge of the local area. Make sure they
are well qualiied before booking, though.
Visit www.mountain-training.org/
walking/other/ind-a-leader for
a list of recommended guides.
S
zzz
I STAY?
Llanberis, Beddgelert, Capel Curig,
Rhyd-Ddu and Betws-y-Coed have a huge
variety of accommodation options, ranging
from campsites, inns, B&Bs and hostels to
luxury hotels. The oicial tourism website
www.visitsnowdonia.info is a useful
place to start looking.
BEST PUB?
In terms of history, you cant beat
the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel. Located at the
base of the Pass of Llanberis, its full of
memorabilia from the 1953 Everest team
who used it as their training headquarters.
Similarly, Mallorys Bar at YHA Snowdon
Pen-y-Pass was once a popular watering
hole with many UK mountaineering greats.

WHATS THE Below: the popular peaks

of the Ogwen valley.
WEATHER LIKE?
Soggy! The summit of Crib Goch
Glyder Fach Castell y Glyder Fawr
is oicially the wettest place in Britain.
yfan
Low cloud, wind and rain are common on
e

Bwlch y
dg

Snowdon, with summit temperatures Peak Ddwy Glyder

Ri

Cwm
ly

ranging from -20 deg C to 30 deg C, so

in
ist

rib Cneifion Llyn y

Br

take good gear and brush up on map

YG
Cwn

TOP 5
Bwlch Cwm Bochlwyd
and compass skills. The Mountain Tr
Tryfan
yfan

Weather Information Service website Devil's

Llyn Bochlwyd Kitchen
(www.mwis.org.uk) is updated Idwal
twice daily and the Met Oice Slabs

Mountain Forecast (www.

metoice.gov.uk) provides
an hourly overview of the
conditions you could face
Milestone
Buttr
Buttress
ess
Bochlwyd
Buttress
Buttress INSIDER TIPS Gribin Facet
Cwm Idwal

on the summit. START/

FINISH

HOW DO I
CONTACT
MOUNTAIN
RESCUE?
First up, are you sure you
need rescuing? The Llanberis
Mountain Rescue team is the
busiest in Britain, often with
multiple call-outs on busy
days, so being tired or running
out of Snickers bars arent good
enough reasons to mobilise an
entire team of volunteers. But
if its a genuine emergency,
and you believe you or one
of your party are in danger,
dial 999 or 112 and ask for
Police, then Mountain Rescue.
MAKE A WEEKEND
OF IT If you want to extend your
stay in Snowdonia and tackle some
more peaks, look no further than
the nearby Ogwen Valley. Tryfan,
Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr are all
magniicent mountains crawling
with great scrambling routes.
BOOK
YOUR BED
If youve just completed
the Three Peaks Challenge, the
last thing youll want to do is
start the long drive youll be
shattered. Book an overnight
stay somewhere in the National
Park so you can relax for the
night, and have a few
well-earned drinks!
GUARD
Idwal Cottage
AGAINST
YHA TIREDNESS
If this is the inal leg of your
attempt at the Three Peaks
Challenge, youre likely to be very
tired from walking and driving.
Keep eating and resting between
peaks to maintain energy levels.
CONSIDER
THE BUS
Pen-y-Pass car park ills up
quickly, so if youre planning
to start your walk from there
consider parking in Llanberis
or Nant Peris and catching the
TAKE
Sherpa Bus to your start point. SOME CASH
Theres a caf at the top of
Snowdon serving excellent
snacks and refreshments.
Its closed during the winter
months, but if you visit during
peak season its a great bonus
upon reaching the summit.
79
 Your
Three Peaks
Challenge toolkit
Youve hopefully picked the routes youll climb each
mountain by: now the next 17 pages are dedicated
to the inishing touches of your challenge.
Gear, driving, itness and tips for beginners
youll ind everything you need in this section.

80
 As you can see from this picture Snowdon is a huge,
complex mountain; which makes perfect planning
an essential part of your Three Peaks Challenge.
John Warburton-Lee Photography / Alamy Stock Photo

CONTENTS
Back to 1926, for a historical account of
the first ever Three Peaks Challenge 82
Five golden rules for Three-Peakers 86
Kit list: the gear you need to stay safe 88
Expert tips to help boost
your mountain fitness 90
All you need to know about
driving between each mountain 92
Alternative Three Peaks Challenges:
by boat, by bike, by train 94
DIY Three Peaks mountain generator:
8,000 options to pick from! 96
10 tips for first-time hillwalkers 98

81
 A challenge is born
Three friends, one day and some fell slogging: an atmospheric tale from a
time long past unearthed after 90 years from the Fell and Rock Climbing
Club archive and the irst ever Three Peaks Challenge. Hold tight, chaps!
T
hose who were fortunate enough to be at the
Club Meet in Borrowdale at Whitsuntide,
1926, will remember that we were favoured
with unusually good weather. The Sunday
was particularly fine, and as party after
party left Thorneythwaite or passed through
it on their way to the Fells, they scarcely concealed their
contempt for three of us who kept explaining that we felt
slack, and intended to devote the day to a little motoring.
Our destination, however, was further afield in fact,
Fort William, as a preliminary to a motor-mountaineering
stunt which we had planned some months before.
When discussing with him, in London, a similar effort
with regard to Snowdon, H. P. Cain had suggested the
possibility of a party standing on the summits of Ben
Nevis, Scafell Pike, and Snowdon on the same day.
I replied that I had thought of it, but without going into
details had dismissed it as impossible. With his superior
knowledge of roads, distances, and I might add, speeds,
we rapidly re-examined the project, and soon came to
the conclusion that with reasonable luck and a fast car
it would go, though without leaving much margin for
loitering. The rival merits of attacking the problem from
south to north or vice versa were discussed, and the latter
course decided on as the better. In favour of starting from
Snowdon was the fact that the northern position of the
Ben would give us more daylight for climbing him. On
the other hand, by commencing in the north we could
walk up the Ben at leisure the previous evening, and so
complete the greatest lift before making an official start.
[Note: some early Three Peaks Challenges started the
clock on the summit of the first peak. Some still do.]
One also left till the last the climb from Pen-y-Pass to
Snowdon, the least lift of the three, but probably one
sufficient to still satisfy tired men.
A few weeks later I went into the matter in some
detail, and was able to send to Cain a draft time sheet
which seemed to be well within the power of drivers
and walkers, and yet to give every promise of success.
The distances involved were approximately:
Achintee to Seathwaite - 264 miles.
Dungeon Ghyll Old Hotel to Pen-y-Pass - 176 miles.
Adding to these the 34 miles from Seathwaite to
Dungeon Ghyll, one reaches the total of 474 car miles.
The condition of the Highland roads to the north
of Callendar had to be taken into consideration, and
my schedule was drawn up, without allowing time
for any stops, at the rate (approximately) of 24 m.p.h.
from Achintee to N. Ballachulish, 20 m.p.h. from N.
Ballachulish to Crianlarich, 24 m.p.h. from Crianlarich
to Callendar, and 30 m.p.h. for the remainder, with
a somewhat lesser speed up to Seathwaite.
For the descent from the Ben and getting away in the
car, the ample margin of two hours was allowed. For the
walk Seathwaite, Scafell Pike, Dungeon Ghyll, the time
given was 3 hours, which, as I anticipated, proved too
little. At this rate we were due at Pen-y-Pass at 9.35 pm,
so leaving ample time to reach the summit of Snowdon
before midnight.
J. B. Wilton was asked to join, and consented with
enthusiasm. Unfortunately at the last moment he was
unable to get away, and in a most sporting manner
W. G. Pape consented to take his place.
To return to our Sunday journey. One oclock found
us enjoying our lunch by the banks of the Annan on
the slope up to Beattock Summit. Then on to Stirling
and Callendar without incident. The drive along the
Pass of Leny demanded the closest attention from our
Jehu [driver], as nearly every motor car in Scotland
appeared to be on the narrow road or parked along the
banks of Loch Lubnaig. Crianlarich provided very
welcome tea, after which the pace was reduced and
time spent identifying peaks and taking photographs.
So by Inveroran to Kingshouse and down the rough
descent of Glencoe, and round to the right along the
splendid new road to Kinloch Leven. From here the
road along the northern side of Loch Leven is very
narrow and rough, and in addition to a puncture
we had the greatest difficulty in scraping by several
cars travelling in the opposite direction. On such
a wonderful evening, among such scenery, it was
almost with regret that we
drew up at the Alexandra
Hotel, Fort William at
9.30am, so ending our
260 mile journey.
The following morning
our hopes of success were
seriously damped by the
discovery that one of the
front springs of the car was
almost completely broken in
half. However, the Scotch
mechanics were not to be
bested, and in spite of a
As the last
lack of spring steel of either
the necessary breadth or
of the light
length, they managed to
improvise a thoroughly
died, Ben Nevis
sound substitute. We spent
the day as we had intended,
became curiously
strolling about and resting.
Unfortunately the weather
eerie. I wouldnt
steadily deteriorated until
at seven oclock, when the
enjoy being
car was returned to us, rain
had commenced to fall,
there alone.
the mist was low on the
mountains, and the wind increasing in force.
We drove out to Achintee the farm at the foot of the
Ben Nevis track some two miles out, and at 7.52pm,
with Cain waving his good wishes, Pape and I started
up the path. This was entirely new to my companion,
while I had only been on the mountain once before,
as long ago as the summer of 1900. We had decided
to try and keep dry, and so wore capes, which made
the going rather oppressive. The Halfway House or
its ruin was reached at 9.05, and we made a short
halt there for food. We purposely travelled slowly,
as there was no object in arriving on the summit too
early, and we wished to conserve our energies. Larger
and larger patches of snow now appeared, and in some
cases obscured the path. The mist thickened around
us and the rain fell. Once or twice only the mist lifted
temporarily, and I remember a wonderful glimpse we
got of the length of Loch Eil, framed in cloud. Higher
up the amount of snow increased, and it soon became
fairly continuous. At turns of the path I made marks in
the snow to ensure that we should waste no time on the
way down. At about 10.15pm we arrived on the summit
plateau, and began our hunt for the actual top and the
remains of the old Observatory building (still in active
life on my previous visit) in which we hoped to shelter
from the wind and rain until midnight. This was no
easy task as although there was still some light, the mist
was very thick. From time to time an inky darkness on
our left showed where the crag face of the plateau drops
away to the north. To this edge we gave a wide berth, as
we were obviously walking on snow sufficiently deep to
form an extensive cornice on this side of the mountain,
and the time did not appear suitable for experiments
on the tenacity of the snow.
At length, after about ten minutes wandering up
and down the plateau, we were
fortunate enough to hit upon
the old observatory. Far from
affording us much shelter,
however, the woodwork only
projected some eighteen inches
above the snow. Still we had
to make the best of things. We
pulled up one of the boards,
and sat on the lee side of the
very indifferent shelter given by
a foot or so of gaping wooden
wall. Putting on every spare
rag of clothing we had with us,
we settled down to wait the 65
minutes until midnight. The
cold soon became unpleasant,
and the rain, although not heavy,
was persistent and the wind
blew some of the snow in our
face. As the last of the light
died away, the situation became
curiously eerie. I remarked
that I should not really enjoy
being there alone, and Pape was
enthusiastic in his agreement.
I had thought we might be able
to descend without artificial light, but as we waited
the darkness increased, and at 11.45pm we busied our
numbed fingers in lighting an acetylene bicycle lamp.
It was a relief to find that this burned steadily, and
gave an excellent illumination.
At midnight we were on our feet, and at 12.01am we
started to retrace our tracks through the many windings
of the plateau before the genuine descent began. We
went at a sort of jog trot, but soon had to stop to divest
ourselves of our extra wraps only too thankful to
be warm once more. The lamp lit our way excellently,
and before long we were again at Halfway House.
Here only did we dare to leave the track as the result
of careful observations on the way up. By this one short
cut, however, we saved a very long detour. At 1.28 we
reached the car and Cain, who had not been waiting
for us very long. Curiously enough he had heard our
foot-steps long before he had seen the light whether
because of the mist or the windings of the path I do not
know. After some hot coffee we got away at 1.42am,
eighteen minutes ahead of time. Through dark Fort
William to N. Ballachulish the going was good, though
the rain continued. The deep puddles showed that it
had been heavier in the valleys than on the mountain.
In Kinloch Leven we passed two workmen the only
persons we saw until near Crianlarich. The passage up
Glencoe was weird. The heavy rain had filled the deep
hollows of the road with water, which splashed in waves
over the radiator on to the glass screen as we raced
through it. The roar of the engine was almost drowned
by the swish of the water and the snores of Pape from
the back of the car. Has anyone else ever driven up
Glencoe in so deep a slumber?
At Kingshouse it was appreciably lighter, and daylight
was with us before we
reached Tyndrum. Near
Crianlarich we had a five We felt 64 minutes
minutes halt for coffee,
and then on through was insufficient to
Balquhidder to Callendar.
Unfortunately the rain had include Ireland.
made the surface of the
ordinarily excellent road
from Callendar to Stirling,
Even with the
and for many miles beyond,
most extraordinarily
Fastest aeroplane
slippery, and so prevented
the burst of speed we had
the intervening
hoped for on this stretch.
Still Stirling was reached
250 miles were
at 6.09am, fifty-two
minutes in front of our
too much for us.
schedule. Some distance
further on we became troubled by a mysterious noise
which only manifested itself when we turned to the
left. Various investigations were fruitless, and only
took up valuable time, until we fortunately discovered
that all the bolts fastening the near back tyre and rim
to the wheel were loose, and just ready to come adrift!
Near Carluke a puncture rendered a change of wheel
necessary. Near Beattock Summit there was a short
pause; to take in petrol at 9.00am. The weather had
now improved, and we were cheered by occasional
glimpses of sun. We crossed the Sark Bridge into
England at 9.40am. In less than an hour we were
waving greetings to friends at Rosthwaite, loading
up their cars to return to London and Manchester.
At 10.50am we tumbled out of the car at Seathwaite,
eighty-two minutes ahead of time, and without delay
made for Stockley Bridge and Grain Gill. The main
Esk Hause track was reached at 11.57am, in time to
give some young ladies who loomed up out of the mist,
careful (but apparently inadequate) directions how to
reach Langdale. At the last spring on the Pikes track
we stopped for some food and drink. Just as we were
leaving our young lady friends reappeared. Where they
would have finally landed had we not put them right a
second time is difficult to say.
The top of the third Pike was reached at 1.12pm,
and left again at 1.20pm. Although the mist was fairly
thick, there was no rain, and the going was good.
Still it is difficult to make much pace to Esk Hause,
and the descent thence to and down Rossett Ghyll,
and then along Mickleden, is a long one. Thus it was
just after three oclock when we rejoined Cain and
the car, which he had contrived to coax nearly a mile
above Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. Although we had,
as we anticipated, lost some of our advantage, we
were still 35 minutes ahead of schedule time when we
passed Dungeon Ghyll at 3.10pm. We were confident
of gaining still more on the way south, but in this we
were somewhat disappointed. The road from Kendal
to Chester is seldom wide, and often not very straight.
That afternoon it was loaded with traffic, and it was
only Cains magnificent driving that enabled us to
make the good time we did.
We must have overtaken
hundreds of cars, but
never was a risk taken, and
never did he force his way
through to the inconvenience
of another driver. At
Milnthorpe there was a short
halt to enable me to pick up
a waiting telegram and send
a reply. Chester was reached
at 6.55am, or 42 minutes
to the good, so we had only
been able to gain seven
minutes from Langdale.
However, we had plenty in
hand, and were able to make
slightly better time across
Wales, although the route
via Mold and Ruthin to Cerrig-y-Druidon involves the
passage of the Bwlch-y-Parc over the Clwydian Range
in close proximity to the Moel Fammau. For some miles
beyond Cerrig the road is straight, and has been recently
relaid. It would be a mistake to say at what speed we
traversed it, but in many years of motoring experience
I have never travelled so fast before.
The weather had still further improved, and the
familiar mountains and valleys of Wales gave us a
sunny welcome as we passed through Bettws, up to
Capel Curig, and so along in full view of the splendid
Snowdon Horseshoe. With plenty of time in hand, we
drew up at 8-45, almost in the arms of Mr. and Mrs.
Owen, at Gorphwysfa, on the summit of the Llanberis
Pass. We were just fifty minutes earlier than we had
planned. In spite of this, Pape and I decided to finish
our job before partaking of the dinner which the Owens
were anxious to serve for us at once. Cain, however,
after his 480 miles of wonderful driving, was quite
ready to partake of the fleshpots, while we started off
at once (8.53) up the Pyg Track to Bwlch Moch. This
we passed without hurrying at 9.53. On reaching the
zig-zags I explained to Pape to whom the mountain
was fresh that once on the col above them the distance
to the summit was much less than it appeared. Some
minutes later he remarked that although this might
be so, walking did not appear to bring the col any
nearer. However, it was reached at last, and a few
minutes later in the gathering darkness, lightened by
the moon, we flopped down on the summit cairn. We
had left the summit of Ben Nevis at 12.10am, we had
stood on the top of Scafell Pike at 1.12pm, and now
at 10.56pm, with more than an hour to spare, we
were the first people to stand on the tops of the three
highest mountains in Scotland, England and Wales
respectively, on the same day. We looked regretfully
to the South West, where, among the MacGillicuddys
Reeks of Kerry, Carntual [Carrauntoohil], some 150
feet below us, towers over the neighbouring island. But
we felt that sufficient had been done for honour, and
that 64 minutes were insufficient to allow us to include
Ireland in our itinerary. Even with the fastest aeroplane
the intervening 250 miles in a straight line would, I
suppose, have been too much for us. It is curious that
almost exactly the same distance separates Ben Nevis
from Snowdon as the crow flies.
We soon turned to descend. Before long our cycle
lamp refused to function further, but it mattered little as
the brilliant moon gave us ample light. The Pyg Track
being now in shadow, we made down to the Cart Track,
having noticed on the way up that the Causeway was
not under water. Once on the stony track with two
miles or more to trudge to the Hotel, we both admitted
that we were thoroughly tired. But it mattered not, and
at 12.30am we entered the hall to find the tables laden
with food and drink of all kinds. We stumbled up to
report progress to the sleeping Cain, and very soon
found ourselves in bed at the end of what had proved
a thoroughly perfect and enjoyable day.
It will be understood that from the outset our object
was to stand on these three summits on the same day,
and we did not attempt any speed greater than that
necessary to accomplish this. For that reason our
walking times were only fast enough for our purpose,
and might have been shortened by Pape if not by me.
No preparations for the attempt were made other than
the time sheet. We fed on the country and in the car
i.e., we took a supply of sandwiches etc from Fort
William, with several Thermos flasks, and Cain had
these replenished at Thorneythwaite while we were on
the Pikes. The car was the 1925 21 HP Chrysler, and
certainly deserves most of the credit after the driver.
Cain drove every inch of the way himself. It was his
driving, combined with the particular qualities of this
car, that enabled us to bring it off. The walking is
well within the boundaries of most fell sloggers who
can do without a nights sleep. Cain and I had none,
but, as hinted above, Pape seemed to doze very actively
in the back of the car. The suitability of the Chrysler for
this purpose lies in its ample power to maintain a fast
speed on all roads, and its extraordinary acceleration.
The question naturally arises whether it would be
feasible to repeat the excursion with the inclusion
within the twenty-four hours of the ascent of the Ben
and the descent from Snowdon. Given better weather
conditions, an equally good driver, and first rate
walkers in good condition, it is probably possible.
It would certainly be easier to do it (as Cain suggests)
between midday and midday. In daylight a much more
rapid descent of the Ben could be made direct to Glen
Nevis, and the car joined on the road some 2-2 miles
above the level of Achintee.
There are possible variations on Scafell Pike. It is not
even certain that much or anything is gained by taking
the car to Dungeon Ghyll, as the descent to Langdale
is so much longer and more laborious than that to
Seathwaite. In clear weather the route via the Stye and
the Corridor might be quicker for the ascent, and
possibly the descent also, though Grain Gill gives a
very easy and rapid way down. The great advantage
of starting at noon would be that the road south from
Kendal would be traversed in the early hours of the
morning, when it would be practically empty of traffic.
It is rumoured that the very poor road along the north
side of Loch Leven from N. Ballachulish to Kinloch
Leven is to be widened, relaid, and generally improved
to the level of the excellent road along the south side.
When this is done it might save almost fifteen minutes
of valuable time, and considerable wear and tear of both
driver and car. Another alternative is the much shorter
mountain road that leads direct from Kinloch Leven to
near Fort William. We are none of us acquainted with
this road, but enquiries made on the spot confirmed that
time would be lost rather than gained by adopting it.
On the whole I am convinced that the complete
trip could be accomplished in the 24 hours. A better
knowledge of the Ben than ours is required to adopt
the quickest line for the descent and the best spot to
meet the car. The driver must be Cain or someone
who knows every bend in the 480 miles in the way he
does if such a person exists. The walkers must be fit
and fast. Although I have no doubt that my companion
should be one, as regards myself, I consider it a little
outside the limits of my capacity. Fine weather also is
a necessity. Time did not allow us to wait for this, as I
was compelled to be back in London on the Wednesday.
In conclusion I would wish anyone who makes such a
further attempt not only success, but also what is far
more important, as thoroughly interesting and enjoyable
a day as we had on Whit Tuesday, 1926.
Words Charles Hadfield
From the Fell and Rock Climbing Club (FRCC)
journal of 1926. Archived Journals of the Fell & Rock
Climbing Club are available to download for free
via the clubs website: www.frcc.co.uk
 Three Peaks Challenge:
FIVE GOLDEN RULES

1 LEAVE
NO TRACE
Take whatever you bring to the mountain
home with you, whether organic or not. That
means litter, banners, water bottles, clothing
and anything that has left your body and not
landed in a purpose-built toilet (dont flinch:
a nappy bag, some Kleenex and a rustic outlook
are all you need to pack, and all weigh very
2
DRIVE
RESPONSIBLY
If youre doing the challenge over 24 hours,
you need a designated driver who isnt in your
walking group, and who can sleep while youre
on the hill. The typical challenge involves
around 10 hours of driving and 14 hours of
walking. Park courteously at your destination,
little). If you need to wee, do it away
especially if arriving at night in small
from water sources; and when
rural communities. If theres no room
walking keep strictly to paths,
to park, get your driver to drop
not path edges.

3
you of and pick you up later.
SCHEDULE
SENSIBLY

Dont put pressure on areas already
pressurised by busy times. Avoid bank
holidays, school breaks and the summer
solstice; and seriously consider breaking
the challenge over three days, which
is easier, more sensible and more fun.
Avoid arriving at, or leaving, a
settlement between the hours
of 11pm and 5am if possible.
4
CONSIDER
THE SIZE OF YOUR GROUP
A limit of 200 people per event is considered the
maximum by landowners and authorities. But as
youll need to register your challenge (and pay passage
fees) a year in advance if your group comprises more
than 10 people, why not keep under that igure and stay
small and nimble? If you have a big group and need to
register, you can ind details of how to do so here:
www.threepeakspartnership.co.uk/register

5
STAY SAFE And if you want to score top Brownie points, consider
No challenge is worth rushing on donating 1 per person per peak to help look after
the mountain. Most responsible organisers these special places. You can donate here:
adopt the practice of using a minimum driving time of www.threepeakspartnership.co.uk/
10 hours, which is added to your mountain walking get-involved
time regardless of how long the drive actually took. This
removes the time pressure of the driving element and
therefore makes speeding between the peaks pointless.
On the hill, you should also take your time. Choose routes
sensibly, ensure you have at least one very experienced
member, make sure you know how and when to contact
mountain rescue (p33) and be equipped for all weathers.
Dont be afraid to turn round, either the mountain will
always be there. Climbing some mountains in non-
challenge conditions irst to build experience should
be considered essential. And if you want extra
help, there are many companies that
will organise your entire
challenge for you.

86

For more info on best practice visit
www.threepeakspartnership.
co.uk and for local hints and tips
see p78 (Snowdon), p56 (Scafell
Pike) and p32 (Ben Nevis).
Climbing the stone steps that
make up a large chunk of the
Ben Nevis Mountain Track.
MARK R WILLIAMSON /
ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
JOSEPH CLEMSON 2 / ALAMY
... AND THREE
SNEAKY TIPS
1 NORTH TO SOUTH,
OR SOUTH TO NORTH?
Opinions vary on whether its better to start the challenge
on Ben Nevis or Snowdon. Typically, as it covers the
most challenging terrain and involves the most ascent,
Ben Nevis is climbed irst. It also ofers some appealing
scheduling beneits, namely the chance to climb all of the
mountains in daylight, beginning the climb on Ben Nevis
at 5pm, driving overnight to Scafell Pike, then inishing
late afternoon on Snowdon. It will also depend on where
youre based; usually its preferable to get the biggest
journey out of the way before you begin, rather than after.
2 THE BEST NUTRITION
Avoid excess caffeine it can make you addled, and its
a diuretic, so youll want to pee (or poo) more, neither of
which are conducive to long road journeys. Stick to water
or mild isotonic drinks: try mixing 200ml of fruit juice
with 800ml of water and a pinch of salt.
3 PREPARE YOUR MAPS
Youll need the appropriate maps in your bag as back-up
in case you go of-route; but its also worth printing of,
annotating and laminating enlargements of the three
routes youre tackling so you have them to hand and dont
have to flap about with huge maps on the hill. Memory-Map
(www.memory-map.co.uk) and Ordnance Survey
(www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk) both ofer the ability
to print of maps, though youll need a subscription.
Its highly recommended, though, as hopefully this will
be the start of many mountain adventures to come!
87
88
Three Peaks Challenge In your
rucksack
Waterproof trousers
Warm layer (fleece or similar)
Insulated jacket (down or synthetic)
Spare gloves and hat
Kit list
To tackle Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon Roll-top drybags or rucksack liner to
keep the above dry/organised.
in comfort and safety there are some things Headtorch and spare batteries
Fully charged mobile phone
you simply cant be without. This is the kit Sunscreen
At least 2 litres of
that will enable you to enjoy, not endure! water per mountain
High energy snack bars
Sugary sweets
Carbohydrate-rich snack (crisps, sandwich)
Sunglasses
WARM HAT Map and compass
Basic irst aid kit (thermal blanket, plasters,
Its wise to pack a spare, along with
bandage, blister treatment, etc)
an extra pair of gloves, in a waterproof
bag inside your rucksack.
Skin So Soft spray helps
WATERPROOF JACKET fend off Scottish midges.

A fully waterproof and breathable

jacket with a good hood that its properly
is essential. Many brands do their own such fabrics if you want
to keep the cost down, but if you want quality that will last
choose Gore-Tex, eVent, Polartec NeoShell or Nikwax Analogy.
You may need to wash your jacket with a specialist cleaner
such as those made by Grangers or Nikwax to ensure maximum
performance if youve owned it for a while.

WALKING TROUSERS
Your legs are doing most of the moving, so what you wear on
them is critical for comfort. Dont wear jeans, or anything that
takes a long time to dry, as if you get caught in bad weather they
may put you at risk. Dedicated walking trousers are usually fast-
drying, light and water-resistant (but not usually waterproof).
 COMPASS AND MAP
The basic skills to read a map and use Add a flask of hot
a compass will help keep you safe. soup and extra food
There are many cut-down map sheets to keep in the car.
available, conveniently framing the
peaks they cover, and they are useful
to have to hand. Many walkers print
their own using mapping software; but
if you do this, make sure you have a full map
in your rucksack in case you wander of course.

RUCKSACK
If youre tackling the Three Peaks in summer you shouldnt need
anything larger than a 30 litre rucksack. You must ensure it can
hold everything easily, though theres nothing worse than
cramming. Pick one with a raincover if you can, or else buy an
inexpensive rucksack liner to ensure your gear is kept dry.

GLOVES
Go for a wind- and
water-resistant pair
and ensure you
have spares.

WALKING POLES
Great for taking the strain on descents when repeated
downward impact on your knees can seriously take its toll and
handy if you need a bit more upward pull on ascents. Pick cork- or
In the car
Dry clothes and comfy shoes. Theyll feel wonderful
foam-handled models, and ensure theyre comfortable to hold.
as you travel between mountains, and afterwards.

GAITERS iPod/music player and headphones

Not pictured here, they provide optional extra
weatherprooing for ankles and lower legs.
Good for repelling mud on boggy ground.
WALKING SOCKS
Spend 10 on wool or quality synthetic socks
and you wont regret it the diference
versus cotton sports socks is huge.
3-SEASON BOOTS
Fit is paramount here. You might buy
the most expensive models around, but
if they dont suit your foot shape theyre useless.
Most respectable retailers will do a full boot itting free.
Car phone charger
Travel towel
Blow-up pillow
Water bottle with isotonic drink
(see page 87 for a handy recipe)
Spare socks you could leave these in
the car, but a fresh pair of socks per
peak is a luxury you wont regret.
Alternatively, a dousing of talc will
keep things fresh and help avoid blisters.
Plenty of food! This is your chance to
refuel properly before the next peak.

89
 Getting fit for
The Three Peaks Challenge can be an arduous
undertaking for anyone unused to the exertion
of climbing hills. If you have a reasonable level of
itness you should be capable of completing it, but
hillwalking presents a unique set of challenges.
Here are two diferent exercise routines to get
your body ready for tackling the biggest
mountains in Scotland, England and Wales.

The long-term plan

(for newbie walkers)

3 MONTHS TO
CHALLENGE
START WITH YOURSELF
kg
The weight you carry up the
mountains can have a considerable efect on
your progress and your tiredness, so being
mindful of the kilos on your back is important.
But the biggest thing youll
be carrying up those mountains
is yourself. If like many of us
you happen to be carrying
a little extra around the
midrif, easing of on the
calories and keeping trim
in the months leading up
to your challenge will
keep you light on your
feet and can make a big
diference. Even a modest
loss of 2kg equals two bags
of sugar youd otherwise be
lugging up the equivalent of
around 1,150 staircases.
2 MONTHS TO
CHALLENGE
TAKE SMALL STEPS
 The best training for walking is walking.
Start simply by taking a wander at lunchtime,
starting with 15 brisk minutes, then
extending to 30 minutes, then 45 minutes,
then 30 minutes with a 5kg rucksack, then
45 minutes with a 5kg rucksack. Walk fast
enough so that youre just out of breath,
and keep extending the distance.
Make sure you pick something that
is achievable regularly which is
why a lunch hour (or a dog walk, or a
commute) is a good idea. A few ways
to ensure youre tucking in exercise
whenever you can: always take the
stairs, not the lift; try to up your
normal walking pace so youre a little
out of breath; keep track of your steps
using a pedometer youll ind the daily
challenge of setting yourself a step target
strangely compulsive and highly beneicial.

90
the Three Peaks
The quick fix (for fitness fanatics)
WEEK 1 WEEK 2 WEEK 3 WEEK 4
MON Rest Rest Rest Rest
TUES Run 2 miles Run 3 miles Run 5 miles Rest
WED Rest Rest Rest Rest
Rest load up on carbs,
THURS Run 3 miles Run 4 miles Run 6 miles particularly
wholemeal pasta
FRI Rest Rest Rest Rest

Training walk Simulated challenge

Training walk event (such as the
SAT 12 miles 18 miles, including Rest carb load
night navigation Yorkshire Three Peaks)
25 miles
SUN Warm-down run 1 mile Warm-down run 2 miles Warm-down run 1 mile Three Peaks Challenge!

MONTH TO
1 CHALLENGE
TAKE BIGGER STEPS
[ If the best training for walking is
walking, the best training for hillwalking is...
hillwalking. Try to get yourself outside and
up at least one hill before you tackle your
challenge this will also help you familiarise
your mind and body with the sort of terrain
youre likely to be walking up on your challenge.
USE YOUR KIT
Most modern boots dont
need breaking in, but youll
beneit from familiarising
yourself with them before
your challenge. Wearing them
with walking socks for at least
a few miles will help you get
used to them, so they
dont feel clumsy
on the hill.
DAY TO
1 CHALLENGE!
F STAY HYDRATED
Pre-hydration is important, but dont go
over the top. Aim to drink 2-3 litres of water the
day before your challenge, and keep an eye on
your wee if youre going too often or its very
pale or clear, youre all topped up. Oh, and dont
go mad in the pub beforehand alcohol can
have a ruinous efect on your system the
day before a strenuous undertaking.
EAT CARB-RICH FOODS
Pasta, rice and other
carbohydrates the night before
your challenge will give you
lots of slow-release reserves.
Avoid too much salt and sugar,
but dont be too quick to refuse
a fry-up on the morning of your
challenge studies have shown that it
contains just about the right balance of nutrition
to get you up a steep slope quite efectively. If
youre unconvinced by this, you cant go wrong
with the slow-release goodness of porridge.
91
 The famous view of Buachaille
Etive Mor guarding the
entrance to Glen Coe,
northbound on the A82.
TOM BAILEY

Driving
the Three Peaks
ENSURE YOUR
CAR IS UP TO IT
Any kind of long journey takes
its toll on your motor but add a few
passengers and their gear, not to mention
the pressure of a challenge that might
have charity money at stake, and you
dont want your shoddy vehicle being the
undoing of it. Ensure your tyres are in
good order and have at least 3mm of tread,
decent wipers, topped-up fluid reservoirs
and air conditioning that works, if youve
got it. Ensuring you have breakdown
recovery cover is also wise Three Peaks
Challenges aside, its no fun breaking
down in mountain country.
Togdfgdfg
PACK FOR YOUR
PASSENGERS
Your cargo will appreciate
blankets, pillows, eye masks and plenty
of revitalising refreshments. Avoid
anything too salty or full of cafeine.
BE COURTEOUS
Take advantage of the
downtime ofered by your
mountain-walking companions being
out on the hill to grab some shut-eye, or at
least some rest. Dont (as some people still
occasionally insist on doing en masse)
turn on the stereo and headlights, ire up
the barbecue and have a roadside party in
the wee small hours of the morning beneath
the windows of slumbering residents.

REST UP
BEFOREHAND
The whole point of having
a designated driver is to ensure
the person behind the wheel
is fresh so if thats you ,take
it easy on the day before you
set of. Youll also be the one
who has to man the phone
and raise any alarms, so
youll have to be ready to
spring alive even when
youre not on the road.
KEEP
YOURSELF
ENGAGED
Music can wear thin on long journeys, so
consider some reading material for the
road piped through your stereo, of course.
Some audiobooks (www.audible.co.uk)
are over 20 hours long and are ine aural
accompaniments to a long
journey when your eyes and
hands are otherwise occupied.

92
 3 BEST
REFRESHMENT
STOPS
THE GREEN
WELLY STOP
A82, TYNDRUM
A splendid antidote to the
general thinning-out of
services stations once TEBAY SERVICES
youre north of the border, J38, M6
the Green Welly Stop is Tebay is a real treat if you like
a complex of shops and gourmet, craft-minded food
food outlets crowded and pleasant surroundings.
onto the side of the A82 This luxury service station
BEN NEVIS
in the village of Tyndrum.
Whats best is, across the
is a welcome antidote to
the usual tat-infested
road is what must be the monstrosity youre likely to

R inest chippy in all Scotland

in the shape of the Real
pull into. Both northbound
and southbound services
Food Caf. have excellent farm shops.

Tebay: not your average service station.

JOSEPH CLEMSON 2 / ALAMY

R
SCAFELL PIKE

CHESTER
SERVICES
J14, M56
The only oicial service

R station at this end of the

motorway, and conceivably
the irst (or last) comfort
break youll have near the
north Wales border.
SNOWDON

Youll spend a lot of time

in your car, so make sure
your gear is organised and
packed away properly
while you travel.
TOM BAILEY

Driving challenge by numbers

Miles/km: 470/756 (Glen Nevis Wasdale Head Pen-y-Pass)
Time: 9 hours, though most add 10 hours of driving automatically
to their hill times to negate the beneits of speeding.

93
 If you spread your challenge over multiple days,
youll have time to approach each peak however
you want. Canoeing down Wast Water towards
Scafell Pike is a sure-fire way to avoid traffic!
TOM BAILEY

Alternative
Three Peaks Challenges
Because of disruption to local communities and the growing environmental
impact of the Three Peaks Challenge, many alternative schedules, modes
of transport and even locations are being encouraged. If you fancy creating
your own unique adventure, try one of these...
ALTERNATIVE...
YORKSHIRE THREE PEAKS
ALTERNATIVE... SCHEDULES The second most famous Three Peaks
Challenge is to climb the sentinels of
THREE DAYS ONE WEEK Yorkshire: Ingleborough, Whernside and
Doing the Three Peaks Challenge over three Take a week and your challenge becomes Pen-y-ghent. The toughest bit isnt so much
days makes a lot more sense than trying a grand tour of the UKs greatest mountain the hills, but the 23 miles walked between
to cram it all into 24 hours, yet its no ranges. Over seven days you can explore them. Most aim for 12 hours.
pushover. Youll still be covering a hefty the surrounding areas, such as Glen Coe
mileage in a short space of time and driving and the west coast in Scotland, the TEN TORS CHALLENGE
long distances during unsociable hours western Lake District and Snowdonia. Set among the rock tors of Dartmoor, this
but the diference is youll have a hot meal If the weather is looking ickle you can give DIY challenge (traditionally an army-
and a bed to curl up in between the three yourself more chance of getting good marshalled event for teenagers) involves
mountains. This allows you to sleep beneath views by picking the best days; or if its choosing ten tors from a list of a possible
and immerse yourself in the unique looking promising all week you could even 18 to link in a walk of 35-55 miles. Often
atmospheres of Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and climb each mountain twice by diferent conducted as an organised event, its
Snowdon for a bit longer than you otherwise routes. Which, if anything, gives you more typically broken by a wild camp and the
would have, and enjoy the ascents of each potential for fundraising as well as target time is 34 hours. tentors.org.uk
at a rather more appreciative pace. doubling your ascent igures.

94

Sailing between
the Three Peaks.
THREEPEAKSYACHTRACE.CO.UK
Scrambling between
tors on Dartmoor.
TOM BAILEY
CHALLENGES
THE WELSH 3000ERS
This mix of ridge-walking and high-mountain
wandering over Wales' 15 highest peaks, from
Snowdon to the Carneddau, is usually tackled
over one day. With 3600m of ascent and two
deep valleys to sort the wheat from the chaf
endurance-wise, this is a superb mountain
challenge for experienced walkers. Due to its
diiculty many split it over a weekend.
CALEDONIAN CHALLENGE
20 years old in 2016, this is an organised walk
across the Highlands split into two events: a
24 mile walk in 12 hours, or a 54 mile walk in
24 hours. Teams sign up, and money raised
goes to Foundation Scotland.
caledonianchallenge.com
Cycling through the Scottish
Highlands en route to Ben Nevis.
BEN WINSTON
Bivvying on
Snowdon during a
Welsh 3000ers attempt.
TOM BAILEY
Getting started
on the Yorkshire
Three Peaks.
TOM BAILEY
ALTERNATIVE...
MOUNTAINS
Providing theyre within relative
striking distance of each other,
theres nothing to stop you choosing
three completely different
mountains as the focus of your
Three Peaks Challenge. Whether
youre planning a 24-hour, three-day
or week-long assault, considering
different hills will ease the pressure
on the small communities that ind
themselves the focus of the
traditional challenge. Turn the
page for a ready-made selection
of mountains you could mix and
match your way to the top of!
ALTERNATIVE...
MODES OF
TRANSPORT
BOAT
No, its not a joke. In fact its rather
popular to sail between the Three Peaks,
and there are several organised challenges
conducted each year. The most popular is
the Three Peaks Yacht Race, which has
been going since 1977. Being relatively
coastal, the mountains lend themselves
well to triathalon-style attempts and the
typical yacht challenge docking at
Caernarfon in Wales, Whitehaven in
Cumbria and Fort William in the Highlands
involves 389 miles of coastal sailing,
18 miles of cycling and 72 miles of running.
Visit threepeaksyachtrace.co.uk
BIKE
 Even more environmentally sound
than boating, biking between the Three
Peaks has become more popular in recent
years. The time it takes to cover the
distance will depend on your level of
itness, but the record stands at 46
hours (without sleep) which was set in
2008 by John McAvoy, Graeme Widdup
and Nicholas Hudson.
RAIL
It is possible to climb the Three
Peaks linking most of the journey by rail,
though its by no means straightforward
and it makes sense to tackle it south to
north. The nearest mainline station to
Snowdon is Bangor, and to Scafell Pike its
Ravenglass so connections must be made
and planned from these stations to the
foot of each mountain. The overnight train
to Fort Williamcan be utilised for heading
north, but to cover the distance from the
station to the base of Ben Nevis youll need
some sort of transportation. A bus or a bike
are obvious options, but youll have to
spread the challenge over three days
or a week to make it work. The Railway
Children charity organise a rail-based
Three Peaks Challenge if youd rather
someone else took care of the planning
(railwaychildren.org.uk) and Ronald
Turnbull describes a public transport
Three Peaks Challenge in his book
Three Peaks, Ten Tors (cicerone.co.uk).
NEIL S PRICE
95
 DIY
Three Peaks Challenges
If you like the idea of treading your own path and exploring beyond
Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon for your challenge,
why not let fate decide(with a little help from us)?

I
f youre the sort who likes to make the less obvious choice when it comes
to Three Peaks Challenges and youve got a decent amount of mountain
experience under your belt then why not create your own event using our
special randomiser (right)? The mountains chosen all lie within the rough orbit
of the 24-hour Three Peaks Challenge, so they should be suitable. However,
as there are 8,000 potential combinations here, we cant actually vouch for
all of them of course. But look on the bright side: cut them out, toss them in
a hat and select one of each colour and you may well be the first person in
history to complete that particular Three Peaks Challenge! Good luck.

Grisedale Pike, Lake District.

3 READY-MADE
SELECTIONS..
Snow-topped Ben Lomond.

TOM BAILEY

Carnedd Llewelyn, Carneddau.

...FOR THOSE
WHO LIKE
POINTY THINGS
...FOR CONVENIENCE Tryfan, Grisedale Pike
Foel-fras, Blencathra & Ben Lomond & Meall nan Tarmachan
These are the most conveniently located of Shapely, sharp and beloved
their respective countries, in that they sit of scramblers, these are
just of the main thoroughfares that serve sure to test more than just
them. Ben Lomond is a bit of a iddle, but it your legs so dont rush.
is also Scotlands most southerly Munro.

...FOR LOVERS OF BIG NUMBERS

Carnedd Llewelyn, Helvellyn & Ben Lawers
The highest peaks on their respective lists (and the
second, third and, er, tenth highest in their respective
countries) and splendid mountains all.
96
 WALES ENGLAND SCOTLAND

Carnedd Llewelyn Skiddaw Meall Ghaordaidh

SH683644 NY261291 NN514397

Carnedd Dafydd Blencathra Ben Lomond

SH663631 NY323277 NN367028

Carnedd Gwenllian Helvellyn Beinn Narnain

SH687669 NY342152 NN271066

Foel Grach Fairield Beinn Dorain

SH689659 NY358117 NN325378

Yr Elen Coniston Old Man Beinn an Dothaidh

SH673651 SD272978 NN331408

Elidir Fawr High Raise Ben Challuim

SH612613 NY281095 NN386322

Carnedd y Filiast Nethermost Pike Ben Chonzie

SH620627 NY344142 NN773308

Foel-fras Raise Stob a Choire Odhar

SH697682 NY343174 NN257460

Glyder Fawr Grasmoor Stob Ghabhar

SH642580 NY175203 NN230455

Glyder Fach High Street Meall Corranaich

SH656583 NY441111 NN615410

Moel Siabod Grisedale Pike Sgorr Dhearg

SH706547 NY198225 NN057558

Arenig Fawr Swirl How Ben More (Crianlarich)

SH827369 NY272005 NN432244

Tryfan Stybarrow Dodd Sgorr Dhonuill

SH664594 NY343189 NN040555

Foel Goch Bowfell Ben Vorlich

SH629612 NY245064 NN295124

Mynydd Perfedd Great Gable Cruach Ardrain

SH623619 NY211103 NN409212

Aran Fawddwy White Side Stuc an Lochain

SH863224 NY338167 NN483448

Pen y Gadair (Cadair Idris) Wetherlam Beinn Chabhair

SH711130 NY288011 NN367179

Mynydd Moel High Stile Ben Cruachan

SH728137 NY168147 NN069304

Y Garn St Sunday Crag Ben Lawers

SH631596 NY369134 NN635414

Aran Benllyn Great Dodd Meall nan Tarmachan

SH867243 NY342205 NN585390

NOTE: EACH MOUNTAIN IS SHOWN WITH THE ORDNANCE SURVEY GRID REFERENCE FOR ITS SUMMIT.
97
 10 tips
for first-time walkers
Its quite possible the Three Peaks will be the irst mountains
youve ever climbed; so heres some advice on how to make it
an experience thats safe, comfortable and enjoyable!

1 2
START
SLIGHTLY COLD
A little shiver when you set of is
ine youll soon be warming up
when the ascent starts. Ensure
you have lots of warm kit in your
pack so you can easily throw on a
layer or two later, but starting your
walk just a little bit cold will
CHECK THE
BEST FORECASTS
The normal TV weather forecast isnt good
enough for the hills. The best place to ind
weather reports is online, with the Mountain
Weather Information Service (mwis.org.uk)
or the Met Oice mountain weather reports
(metoice.gov.uk/public/weather/
mountain-forecast) ofering specialised
3
DONT FORGET
THE LAPSE RATE
The lapse rate is the cooling of air with
ascent, which it does on average about
10 deg C per 1000m. When its 20 deg C in
the valley and 10 deg C on the summit,
no big deal; but when its 10 deg C in the
valley and zero on top, thats when your
sweaty body starts getting seriously
avoid any early sweating. regional forecasts for the uplands. cold. Always pack warm gear, no matter
what the weather at the
bottom of the mountain.

6 WARM UP,
WARM DOWN
Its easy to just jump out of the car and
climb,but you may regret it later in your
challenge. Work in an extra few hundred
metres on the flat before you start
5 4
BE A TORTOISE
Being on the clock doesnt mean you
should rush sometimes its a false
economy. A slow and steady pace,
at a speed you can talk at just a little
breathlessly, will be plenty fast enough.
You will build a rhythm more easily
KNOW YOUR
PHONES LIMITS
Phone reception in the mountains
can be patchy, so dont be surprised if
you have no signal, or are unable to
download anything or access apps.
Ensure its fully charged and you
know the process for calling Mountain
Rescue 999 or 112, then asking for
the police, then Mountain Rescue,
climbing, and again at the end before you and fatigue slower. clearly stating your location.
stop to ease the strain on your muscles.

7 8 9 10
GET SOME
EXPERIENCE
BEFOREHAND
Climbing the three biggest peaks in
their respective countries in one
push or even over three days
is quite an undertaking. You can
gain conidence by learning basic
hillwalking skills, such as navigation
and testing your gear, in the weeks
leading up to your challenge.
The top of a mountain is
Consider climbing some Lakeland
only the halfway point.
fells, some smaller mountains in
Snowdonia or a Munro such
as Ben Lomond irst.
DONT
FORGET
TO LOOK
BEHIND YOU!
When climbing a mountain
REMEMBER... its sometimes easy to
focus just on the few feet
in front of you. But dont
forget to stop and turn
Conserve energy for
around sometimes thats
the way down,
where the best views are!
and go carefully.
ENJOY YOURSELF
Whether youre raising money for
charity or not, the hills are free to be
used by everybody all the time so keep
coming back. There are hundreds, even
thousands, more peaks to choose from.
Hillwalking adds priceless memories
to your life experience CV, helps the
communities around each mountain
thrive, and keeps you healthy.
What are you waiting for?

98
Every month Trail is packed with...

Inspirational outdoor writing and award-winnning photography

Expert reviews on all the The skills you need to stay safe The most exciting routes on
latest gear and gadgets and enjoy Britains high places our greatest mountains

Sign up for a year of adventure!

X Each copy will X Youll get 13 issues
be delivered directly packed with over 200
to your door, so youll walking routes written
never miss an issue. by outdoor experts.
X Youll receive X Subscribers receive
exclusive discounts on free digital Ordnance
shop prices, plus special Survey mapping for
gifted offers. an entire year.

Visit greatmagazines.co.uk/trail or call

01858 438884 to subscribe to Trail magazine
 E V E RY R O U T E TO T H E R O O F O F S COT L A N D, E N G L A N D & WA L E S
C H A L L E N G E WA L KS A L L-T I M E C L ASS I C S
THRILLING SCRAMBLES
YO U R U LT I M AT E G U I D E TO B E N N E V I S , S CA F E L L P I K E A N D S N OW D O N
HISTORICAL FACTS SAFETY TIPS WEATHER FOREC ASTS BEST PUBS

P L A N YO U R P E R F EC T T H R E E P E A KS C H A L L E N G E
CO D E O F P R AC T I C E
K I T L I ST F I T N E SS R E G I M E T R AV E L A DV I C E

6.99
FROM THE MAKERS OF

TRAIL MAGAZINE 2016

MAGAZINE WWW.LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM