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STITCH

Loop or loops of one or more threads


when bounds with each other, either by
interlacing, interloping, intra-looping or
combination of those when sewing fabric,
each unit of such configuration is called
stitch.
LOOPS FORMATION METHODS

Interlacing: During stitching


when one loop of one thread
passes over another loop of
another thread is called
interlacing.

Inter-looping: When loop of


one thread passes through the
loop of another thread is called
inter-looping.

Intra-looping: When a loop of


one thread passes through the
loop of same thread during
sewing is called intra-looping.
Stitch Type
Stitches are grouped in 6 classes according to British
standard 3870:1991 as follows-
Stitch class 100 (Single thread chain stitch )
Stitch class 200 (Hand stitch )
Stitch class 300 (Lock stitch )
Stitch class 400 (Multi thread chain stitch )
Stitch class 500 (Over edge stitch)
Stitch class 600 (Covering chain stitch)
1. Stitch class 100 (Single
thread chain stitch )
Stitches are formed by intra-
looping.
One or more needle thread
is used for stitch formation.
Security of stitch is very
poor.
Temporary joining,
positioning, hemming, button
holing, button attaching
purposes.
2. Stitch class 200 (Hand
stitch )
Looks like domestic hand stitch.
It is produced from single
thread.
Needle thread is passed from
one side to another side in the
fabric and makes a sewn line.
This stitch is made by special
type of needle and sewing m/c.
Very rare used in the garments
manufacturing unit due to
higher cost and limited length of
sewing.
Time consuming operation.
3.Stitch class 300(Lock stitch)
At least two groups of threads are required.
One group of thread is called needle thread and another group of
thread is called bobbin thread.
Appearance of lock stitch is similar in both sides of the fabric.
Security of stitches is very good.
Abrasion resistance of lock stitch better.
The main problem of lock stitch is the lower capacity of bobbin thread
requires frequent bobbin thread changing.
Not suitable for knit fabric sewing.
Extensively used in sewing and fabric attachment as pocket, collar, cuff,
facing etc.
Used in button holing, button attaching, blind stitching etc.
4. Stitch class 400 (Multi
thread chain stitch )
Stitches are formed by two or more groups of threads.
One group is called needle thread and another is called looper thread.
Threads are bound together by interlacing and inter-looping.
Multi thread chain stitch is also called double locked stitch.
Possibility of seam pucker formation is less.
Used for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing, attaching lace, elastic etc.
5. Stitch class 500 (Over edge
stitch)
Stitches are formed by two or more groups of threads.
At least one group of thread passes around cut end of the fabric.
Fraying is stopped by the stitches of 500 class.
It is also called as over lock stitch.
Extensively used for knit fabric sewing.
Also used for fabric sewing of denim, jeans etc.
6. Stitch class 600 (Covering
chain stitch)
Stitches under 600 class are formed by three groups of threads.
One group is called needle thread and other is called top cover thread
and the other group is called bottom cover thread.
Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to 9
threads.
Used to attach tape, lace, elastic.
Also used for decorative purpose.