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Introduction
Over lock machine is a special purpose machine used for
finishing edges and sometimes for seaming.
It falls under the class 500.
Stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups
of threads
General characteristics that loops from at least one group of
threads pass around the edge of the material.
Over-edge stitching is generally done on side-bed.
It has a small working area.
It is specialized for overlock machines.
Features
Used to form over lock stitch / covering stitch.
Sew both knitted and woven fabric.
Makes an edge finish by trimming as well as to sew seams.
In one operation, it cuts off the fabric to smooth edge and
warps thread around the edge.
Speed of machine 8000 RPM
The sewing speed must be between 6000-8500 SPM.
Stitch Length 0.8 to 5mm.
Stitch is very elastic and can stretch up to 300%.
Stitch can be made using 2,3,4, and 5 threads, depending on
the no. of needles and looper.
Needles DC x 1, DC x 27, DO x 5.
Precaution
A Needle with blunt or bent point should not be used in an
edge cutter machine as it causes imperfection and may cause
the needle to break .
The size of the needle must conform to the size of the thread
and should be suitable for the material being sewn.
Stitch Type
2-thread overlock
1-needle and 1-looper thread.
Stitch type: 503
Best for: Light weight fabric.
Application: serging edges, finishing seam edge and allowance.
Should be avoided in area that will receive stress.
Cont.
3-thread overlock
1-needle and 2-looper thread.
Stitch type: 504 & 505.
Best for: Light weight & medium weight fabric.
Application: used for sewing woven and knits fabrics but should
be avoided in area of stress.
Mostly used in skirts, lingerie, swimwear, etc.
Cont.
4-Thread Overlock
2- needle and 2- looper.
Stitch type: 512,514 & 515 (401+503)
Best for: Medium and heavy weight.
Applications: Suitable for sewing woven and knitted fabrics even
in areas of stress.
Poor stretch hence not used in knitted garments.
Suitable for sewing blouses, shirts, skirts, dresses, pants, lingerie,
action wear, swimwear, and even sleepwear.
Can be converted to both two and three thread overlock
Four Thread Overedge
Cont.
5- Thread Overlock
2- needle and 3- looper.
The left needle and lower looper form a 2-thread chain stitch
Stitch Type: 516(401+504).
Best for: Heavy weight materials.
Applications: Seaming woven and knits.
Safety Stitch.
Side seam of trouser.
Four Thread Overedge
Balancing of Stitches
Balanced Stitch
Unbalanced stitch
Parts and function
1. Balance wheel
2. Needle thread tension
guide
3. Upper looper tension guide
4. Lower looper tension guide
5. Thread guide bar
6. Front or looper cover
7. Side cover and cloth plate
8. Needle cover
9. Side cover opening release
10. Cutting blade
11. Oil window
12. Head
Cont.
1. Balance wheel
Provides the drive mechanism for the machine motor and
controls the position of the needle and loopers.
2. Needle thread tension guide
Regulates the needle tension.
3. Upper looper tension guide
Regulates the upper looper tension.
4. Lower looper tension guide
Regulates the lower looper tension.
5. Thread guide bar
Guides the needle and looper threads.
6. Front or looper cover
Covers and provides access to the threading chart, the two
loopers and their thread guides.
Cont.
7. Side cover and cloth plate
Covers lower mechanisms and provides a surface for the fabric to
slide over.
8. Needle cover
A safety device that covers the needle in case of breakage.
9. Side cover opening release
Releases the side cover / cloth plate.
10. Cutting blade
There are two cutting blades: one is stationary and one moves as
the machine sews, creating a scissor action to trim the edge of the
fabric before the overlocking stitch neatens the edge of the fabric.
11. Oil window
Lubrication warning system that indicates the oil is being distributed
to the moving parts of the machine.
12. Head
Houses all the mechanisms of the overlocker.
Cont.
Location of a
Throat plate cloth cutting
slot knife