T R A V E L

HICKEN
FRIED C EN
H E AV
RET
A S S E C
C A N A D PA R A D I S E
D
SEAFOO

I,
NT THA
BRILLIA & MORE
INDIAN

S
M E X I C O A P I TA L
I L L A C
Q UESAD

L
G COO
STAY I N NG IN
IN OAX
ACA
COOKI
COLOR
WITH A
BERRY TECHNI
ST R AW
PA L E TA

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TOP FO TELS
H O
LOV E R S
 BON APP TIT VOLUME 62 NUMBER 4

may
T H E T R AV E L I SS U E

F E AT U R E S

112 134
OAXACA TIME WHERE THE
Where fresh-made FOREST
corn tortillas, MEETS THE SEA
bubbling pots of For Nick Nutting,
beans, and creamy, chef at Wolf in the
salty cheese taste like Fog in Tofino, a day
nothing youve ever off means foraging for
had yet inspire dishes mushrooms. Oh, and
you can cook in then crisping them up
your own kitchen. in some brown butter
BY ALISON ROMAN over a beach campfire
to eat with his buds.
120 Not bad, huh?
ROOOOOOAD BY AMIEL STANEK
TRIP!
Start with a Japanese 146
spa in Santa Fe, end KFC

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

with a chic hotel in By which we mean
Austin, and try all the Korean Fried Chicken!
incredible tamales, A boozy beer-
tequila, and Texas and-soju adventure
BBQ you cant goes deep into the
miss along the way. night in search of
BY JAY CARROLL Seouls crunchiest,
tastiest chimaek.
124 BY WESLEY YANG
TECHNICOLOR
TAIWAN
ON THE COVER
The pair behind the
Yola Jimnez enjoying
Brooklyn-based
a strawberry paleta
Taiwanese restaurant
in Oaxaca (for story,
Win Son help you
see page 112).
take home their spicy,
Photograph by
flavorful fare with
Peden + Munk.
lamb noodles,
scallion pancakes,
and more.
BY JOSH KU AND
TRIGG BROWN

GETTING
TO THE SOUL
OF SEOUL

P . 14 6

8 M A Y 2 0 17
 BONAPPETIT.COM

may
T H E T R AV E L I SS U E

S TA RT E R S

38 27
FOOD LOVERS AND
HOTELS EVERYTHING
If you think hotels are ELSE Spot-on,
just for sleeping, The best biscuits are
youve clearly never baked in a Georgia London
had a nightcap with gas stationThe Along with
a view at Denvers shortest reviews of our city guide to
Crawford Hotel or springs greatest the best of the
woken up to gravlax cookbooksTepache, capitals street
tartines at Hewing switchel, and other food in this issue,
Hotel in Minneapolis. healthyish kombucha were blowing
These 14 spots are altsWhat our wine out our online
among the countrys columnist learned international
best places to eat in the vineyards of travel coverage
and drink, whether France and more of that town (and
youre lucky enough more) starting
to book a room or this month
merely swinging by at bonappetit
for an afternoon. .com/cityguides.
One place on
your must-eat
list? Street Feast
Dinerama, a
market where our
writer suggests
the following:

1
The XL King
Prawn from
Prawnography

2
THE UNITED
Tomahawk
lamb chops from
KINGDOM
Lagom
OF STREET EATS

P. 9 5 3
Doughnut
Bites from
You Doughnut!
4
Mushroom
PHOTOGRAPH BY INNA KOSTUKOVSKY

dumplings from
Yum Bun

1 0 M A Y 2 0 17
 BONAPPETIT.COM

may
T H E T R AV E L I SS U E

BA KITCHEN C O LU M N S

61
DINNER
TONIGHT
Heres how chef Alon
Shaya translates his
Israeli cooking on
his nights off. Monday
is for lamb chops
with three-chile harissa,
marinated goat
cheese, and a zingy
zaatar salsa verde.
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ
74
HEALTHYISH
78
THE PARTY
Take your cookout
to the Caribbean with
jerk chicken, rum
punch, and garlicky
fried plantains straight
from Sarah Kirnon
of Miss Ollies in
Oakland, CA.
BY NIKITA RICHARDSON
88
COOK THIS
NOW
Whats long and
18
R.S.V.P.
Reader requests
and airport rules.
95
CITY GUIDES:
LONDON
From laid-back Indian
snacks to authentic
tacos (really!), the
once stuffy British city
is now brimming
with internationally
influenced casual
spots that have risen

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAMIL BIALOUS

Make your own lean and pink all over? up from the streets.
cocoa energy bites (Rhubarb, obvs.) BY KARSHING TONG
so you can be as RECIPES BY LILY
with-it as your MIRABELLE FREEDMAN 102
neighborhood caf. BACK OF HOUSE
90 Brooks Headley is
RECIPE BY
CLAIRE SAFFITZ BAS BEST writing his Superiority
Rise and shine with Burger cookbook in
76 the perfect gooey, iPhone Notes.
KITCHEN sticky, sweet, swirly
SKETCHES morning bun. 157
An herby, eminently BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ PREP SCHOOL
riffable green Fifty shades of
sauce that plays well plantains, hydrating
with others. dried mushrooms,
BY ALAINA SULLIVAN and more.
162
LAST BITE
For Channing Tatum,
its either airplane
whiskey or his own
brand of vodka.
BY MAGGIE LANGE

IN EVERY ISSUE
16 editors letter
160 recipe index
160 sourcebook

F I N A L LY
TIME TO MOVE
TO CANADA?

P. 13 4

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial ofces: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or email subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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Contributors BROOKS HEADLEY, REBECCA JURKEVICH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI, BRANCH OFFICES

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14 M A Y 2 0 17
editors letter
T H E YOU VAC A T I ON
As the warming winter sun dipped below the horizon, I fully
realized how good I had it. A few hours earlier my family and I
had been crammed on a flight from JFK, and now I was standing
barefoot on the beach in Jamaica.
And yet I couldnt help but think that I might like to go on a
different kind of vacation. Dont get me wrong. We had a blast in
Port Antonio, zipping around the island to spots like Boston Bay,
the sweet, smoky birthplace of jerk barbecue.
But do you ever wish you were on a you vacation instead of
a Clark Griswold pack-up-the-family getaway? I mean, heck,
my wife, Simone, wont stop talking about the yoga retreat
she took last year on Majorca, Spain: a gang of women holed
up in a centuries-old hillside villa for a week of exercise, beach
excursions, healthyish eating, and yes, some drinking, too.
When I wasnt hearing about that trip, I was talking to my col-
league Pam Drucker Mann, Cond Nasts chief marketing officer,
about her annual girls trip, which as far as I can tell is basically
The Hangoverexcept her crew is on, like, sequel number eight.
Me, Im not that cool or gung ho. Like a lot of 40-something
dads, I just want to go play golf. But have you ever tried to do so
on a family escape? Yeah, noit doesnt work. Youre gone for
six hours, too rushed to enjoy the 19th hole, guilty that youre
not in the ocean riding waves with your nine-year-old son.
So I emailed my man Joe House, co-host of the golf podcast
ShackHouse and, even better, a world-class eater and organizer:
1 6 M A Y 2 0 17
Golf trips,
unlike short-shorts,
are timeless.
Follow Adam
on Twitter and
Instagram at
@rapo4
House, you ever take a proverbial golf trip? I need one, bad.
A day later House fired back:
Raaaaap! I know exactly what you mean. I currently have
three trips in the works
And with that, I booked a flight to Jacksonville, Florida, for
a tight two and a half days of golf, instruction, andthats it.
No hikes, no museums, no kidsjust five dads, 18 holes a day,
lessons I wish Id taken a decade ago, and plenty of club sand-
wiches at the club. (I highly recommend the one at TPC Sawgrass,
complete with warm, zesty homemade potato chips.)
And that was it. Honest. No shenanigans. We had a helluva
meal the first night at Palm Valley Fish Camp in Ponte Vedra
Beach (best shrimp and grits Ive ever had), and the next day,
PHOTOGRAPH: ALADDIN COLOR INC./GETTY IMAGES
our instructor, Travis Fulton, asked what we got up to after
dinner. After dinner? I asked. Um, we went to sleep, dude!
We went to Jacksonville to play golf, and thats exactly what
we did. I arrived home late Friday night, having gotten from the
trip absolutely everything I hoped I would. And if my wife and
son missed me, they didnt let on. It was as if, for them, it was
no big deal that I was gone. But I knew much better than that.
It was a very big deal. I fully realized how good I had it.
A DA M R A P O P O R T
Editor in Chief
r.s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
Email us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

DEAR BON APPTIT,

THE SOY SAUCEMARINATED
SHORT RIBS AT CAF OLEI
ARE THE BEST ON MAUI. IVE
MADE THEM AT HOME, BUT
THEYRE JUST NOT THE SAME.
T E R E N C E M A N E G D E G, K I H E I, H I

SOY SAUCEMARINATED
SHORT RIBS WITH GINGER
A drizzle of Sriracha at
4 S E RV I N G S
the end balances out the glazes
sweetness and adds earthy complexity.

2 cups soy sauce
1 cup sugar
2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 2" piece ginger, peeled, chopped
8 star anise pods
4 2"-thick English-style bone-in beef
short ribs (about 1 lb. each)
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 cups cooked white rice
(from 1 cup uncooked)
1 scallion, thinly sliced
1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
Lime wedges and Sriracha
(for serving)
Whisk soy sauce, sugar, oil, red pepper
flakes, garlic, ginger, star anise, and
1 cup water in a large bowl until sugar
is dissolved. Add short ribs and place
a small plate on top of short ribs to keep
submerged. Cover bowl and chill at
least 8 hours and up to 1 day.
Preheat oven to 325. Transfer
marinade and ribs to a large Dutch oven
and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Cover and braise in oven, turning meat
once, until ribs are very tender but not
quite falling off the bone, 12 hours.
Transfer ribs to a medium bowl and
cover with foil to keep warm. Strain
braising liquid into a medium saucepan;
discard solids. Let sit a minute or so to
settle, then ladle off fat from surface;
discard. Bring braising liquid to a boil
and cook, whisking occasionally,
until reduced by half, 1015 minutes.
Whisk cornstarch and 3 Tbsp. water in
a small bowl to make a slurry, then whisk
into reduced braising liquid. Cook over
medium, whisking constantly, until glaze
is thick and bubbling, about 1 minute.
Remove from heat and stir in lime juice.
Mound rice in center of shallow bowls
and place ribs on top. Drizzle about
2 Tbsp. glaze over each (youll have
plenty left over; save it and serve with
grilled steak or chicken). Top with
scallion and sesame seeds. Serve with
lime wedges and Sriracha.

Snack Attack Gummi worms are
When chefs hit essentially radioactive, but
the road, all bets they help me stay awake
are off. We asked while Im driving. The only
a few to share downside is that my mouth
the guilty pleasure hurts after Ive had too
that keeps them many, which is always.
fueled from one pit MICHAEL SOLOMONOV,
stop to the next. chef and co-owner,
Zahav in Philadelphia
While researching my new
book, I discovered a love for
Slim Jims and Cool Ranch
Doritos dipped in Texas Pete
Hot Sauce. Pouring it into
a deli cup prevents it from
spilling all over the car.
EDWARD LEE,
chef-owner, 610 Magnolia
in Louisville, KY
When Im road-tripping
abroad, I always go for
potato chip flavors that you
rarely see in the States.
Canadian gas stations have
the most amazing options.
Poutine? Yes, please!
GABRIELLE QUINEZ
DENTON, chef and co-owner,
Ox in Portland, OR

1 8 M A Y 2 0 17 * S U B M I SS I O N S B E C O M E T H E P R O P E R T Y O F B O N A P P T I T.
r.s.v.p.
THE CHEF SAYS
Cucumbers, melons,
and pumpkins are all in
the gourd family, so they
complement each other even
if it seems strange. Pepitas
bring that full-on crunch to
the soft, sweet cantaloupe.
SAM SMITH,
chef, Tusk
BEN SCHOTTS
ETIQUETTE
GUIDE
Airport Survival
iORDERING
P Do I have to use the
iPad thingy to order?
I get why airport
restaurants want to
serve 100 diners with
just two waiters
but we cannot let our
robot overlords win.
If human interaction
is what youre after,
belly up to the bar.

S C E N T I M E N TA L

P How do I know if
the smell of my plane
food is offensive?
Dude, you know.
If theres doubt
theres no doubt.

REFUELING

P How many drinks

at the airport
bar is too many?
DEAR BON APPTIT, MY FAMILY PUTS TOGETHER THE Theres a formula!
SAME SPREAD EVERY MEMORIAL DAY, BUT IM CONVINCED Hours Before Flight
THE MELON AND CUCUMBER SALAD FROM TUSK IN
2 (if HBF <3) or
PORTLAND, OR, WOULD INSPIRE US TO MIX IT UP THIS YEAR. 1.5 (if HBF >3)
E I L E E N F LO R I N , E U G E N E , O R
=
Maximum Number
of Airport Drinks
(Between 4 a.m.
CANTALOUPE AND cup unsalted, roasted 11:30 a.m., MNAD 2)
CUCUMBER SALAD pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
SHARING SIZE
Savory fruit salads are
4 S E RV I N G S cup chopped cilantro
officially a thing. See the sidebar cup chopped mint P Should you offer
on page 24 for more proof. (And, for Sumac (for serving) your neighbor
the record, cucumber is a fruit.) some of your snack?
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Sumac, a tart, citrusy Assuming your
cup olive oil spice generally sold in ground form, neighbor is not a
cup Champagne vinegar can be found at Middle Eastern markets, child, a nun, someone
with severe allergies,
or white wine vinegar specialty foods stores, and online.
an air marshal,
1 tsp. ground coriander a personal injury
1 tsp. kosher salt Whisk oil, vinegar, coriander, salt, lawyer, or anyone
tsp. freshly ground black pepper pepper, and cardamom in a large bowl. else who might
tsp. ground cardamom Add cantaloupe, cucumber, and chiles be freaked outgo
large cantaloupe, rind and seeds and toss to coat in dressing. Let sit, ahead! What could
possibly go wrong?
removed, flesh cut into 1" pieces uncovered, 15 minutes.
1 large English hothouse cucumber, To serve, add pumpkin seeds, Have a dilemma? Email
sliced on a diagonal " thick cilantro, and mint to salad and toss askba@bonappetit.com
2 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced gently to combine. Top with sumac.

2 0 M A Y 2 0 17 C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 2 4
r.s.v.p.
THE CHEF SAYS
Our gluten-free loaves
bake longer than traditional
bread because they have more
sugar to keep them moist. Theyre
ready when the top browns and
the coconut flakes get crusty.
BEVIN M C NULTY, owner,
Bam Bam Bakery

DEAR BON APPTIT, I BOUGHT A SLICE OF Whisk rice flour, sorghum flour,
BAM BAM BAKERYS COCONUT BREAD AND DEVOURED tapioca starch, baking powder, baking
IT SO SHAMELESSLY THAT I GOT A SECOND soda, salt, and xanthan gum in a medium
ONE FOR THE DRIVE BACK FROM PORTLAND, ME. bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium
speed, beat sugar, coconut milk, oil,
S A R A H C RO S S M A N , A R L I N G T O N , VA
and coconut extract, if using, in a large
bowl until sugar is dissolved and mixture

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (RIBS, SALAD, BREAD); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (CHIPS, MELON, FRUIT, LOAF); BRUCE HUTCHISON (SCHOTT).
is smooth, about 4 minutes. Add eggs
GLUTENFREE 1 cups unsweetened coconut milk one at a time, beating well after each
COCONUT BREAD cup vegetable oil addition. Beat mixture until very smooth,
Weve found that the best GF
8 S E RV I N G S 1 tsp. coconut extract (optional) about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low;
recipes rely on a custom blend of flours 4 large eggs beat in dry ingredients. Increase speed
and starches. To make your own sorghum cup unsweetened coconut flakes to medium; beat batter 5 minutes. Beat
flour, blitz whole sorghum to a powder in toasted coconut. Scrape batter into
with a Vitamix blender or a NutriBullet. I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Xanthan gum prepared pan; top with coconut flakes.
can be found at natural foods stores, Bake bread until top springs back
Nonstick vegetable oil spray some supermarkets, and online. when gently pressed and a tester
1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut inserted all the way to the bottom comes
1 cups white rice flour Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat out with just a few moist crumbs
cup sorghum flour to 350. Line a 9x5" loaf pan with attached, 8095 minutes. Transfer pan
cup tapioca starch parchment, leaving overhang on long to a wire rack and let bread cool in
1 tsp. baking powder sides; coat with nonstick spray (to use an pan 10 minutes. Turn out bread onto rack
1 tsp. baking soda 8x4" pan, hold back 1 cup batter). and let cool completely.
tsp. kosher salt Toast shredded coconut on a rimmed D O A H E A D : Bread can be baked
tsp. xanthan gum baking sheet, tossing occasionally, until 4 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at
1 cups sugar lightly browned, 57 minutes. Let cool. room temperature.
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

WAT E R M E LO N PEAR S T R A W B E R RY APPLE

The New Fruit Salad
Forget about those days of
cubed, mushy melon. Take some
inspiration from these innovative
fruit salads that straddle the
line between sweet and savory.
Public Greens in
Indianapolis serves a
lighter take on classic
bruschetta, combining
watermelon with
tomatoes, fresh mint,
feta, and lime juice,
then spooning it on a
grilled baguette.
An herby verbena At Southbound in Chef Michael Simmons
vinaigrette pulls Richmond, VA, chefs of Caf Marie-Jeanne
together chopped Joe Sparatta and in Chicago pairs
jicama, pear, and Lee Gregory pickle raw apple with fennel
avocado at P.Y.T. in strawberries to enhance to balance its licorice-y
Los Angeles. Parsley their juiciness. They flavor. He slices both
and pomegranate serve the tangy fruit paper-thin, then piles
seeds bring a burst of tossed with beets and them on top of yogurt
color to the plate. pistachios over burrata. with crushed hazelnuts.

2 4 M A Y 2 0 17
 starters THE BEST FOOD LOVERS HOTELS IN AMERICA
EATING SHAKE SHACK IN BED
WILL DRIVE FOR BISCUITS
OUR FAVORITE NEW COOKBOOKS PIZZA PARTY!

SEEN AT:
Tai Chi Jianbing,
San Francisco
(pictured); Bing Mi,
Portland, OR;
The Flying Pig,
NYC

Crunch
Wrap
Supreme
Keep an eye out
for jianbing, the savory
Chinese crepe popping
up more and more
stateside. The soft mung
bean wrapper, typically
layered with eggs,
scallions, bean paste,
and a crispy wonton
cracker, is a popular
breakfast in Beijing, but
here its catching on as a
portable anytime snack.
ASHLEY MASON

P H OTO G R A P H BY AU B R I E P I C K M A Y 2 0 17 2 7
 STARTERS

This BURMA
SUPERSTAR
Seasons b y D e s m o n d Ta n
and Kate Leah y
Best The rare restaurant

Cookbooks
edition (from the
Oakland, CA, spot

in a Single
of the same name)
youll actually want to

Sentence cook from, starting

with the tea-leaf salad.
($30; March)
No one asked
Julia Kramer to
F I V E WAYS
back-cover-blurb TO COOK
any spring releases, A S PA R AG U S
but if they had by Peter Miller
Not, as the title
suggests, an
asparagus-exclusive
HELLO, cookbook but rather
MY NAME IS a collection of real-

3
ICE CREAM life recipes from a
by Dana Cree real-life home cook.
A delightful ($30; April)
introduction to making
pastry-chef-quality SIX SEASONS
ice cream at home. by Joshua
($25; March) McFadden
From the vegetable Find STAFF PICK
ON VEGETABLES savant behind Ava retailers at
Genes, a book in which sabor
by Jeremy Fox mexicano
From the chef of L.A.s
Rustic Canyon, a must
every salad recipe
should be dog-eared.
($35; May)
.com.
Hot
for aspirational
leaf-lovers looking to
dabble in onion ash. BANGKOK
Chip
($50; April) by Leela To all my snack friends:
P u n ya ra t a ba n dhu You have never tried a better
tortilla chip than Home Made
SALAD FOR Deep-cut Thai recipes
from a true expert.
by Sabor Mexicano out of
PRESIDENT Berkeley, CA. Theyre thick
by Julia ($35; May)
enough to handle guac but
Sherman light enough youll want to
A salad cookbook polish off the bag in one sitting.
that includes They smell and taste like freshly
portraits and belongs roasted corn. They are not
in an art gallery. meant for nachos (thatd be like
($35; May)
using Dom Prignon for your
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSH DICKINSON (BOOKS); LAURA MURRAY (CHIPS)

office punch), and salsa, your

services are not neededthese
chips need no embellishments.
ANDREW KNOWLTON

2 8 M A Y 2 0 17
S
T
A
R
T
E
R
S
4
Felicia Doster arrives
at 4:30 a.m. to start making
the days biscuits. The first
batch, mixed from scratch
and rolled out by hand,
will number about 50. By
the days end, a little after
The Gas lunch, shell have sold 300
crackling, butter-brushed
Station biscuits stuffed full of split-
pork sausages or tenderloin
Biscuits of or, of course, bacon, egg,
and cheese.
Georgia For years, her regulars,
everyone from construction
Discovering the workers to bank executives
best baked goods to farmers, knew where to
where youd find her: at the back
counter of the Chevron at
least expect them the corner of U.S. 78 and
B Y W YAT T W I L L I A M S Troy Smith Road, just east
of Between, GA. When she
moves her operation a
few miles down the road to
the Marathon station in
Monroe in June, many will
follow. Another Chevron
in Between makes biscuits
from scratch too, but they
arent as good as Felicias.
If there is any food that
lures me again and again
to the back roads of
Georgia, its the gas station
biscuit. Perhaps that sounds
odd to your ears, getting
fresh food with your
gasoline. Well, in Georgia,
if the town is small and the
road is well traveled, youll
likely find a warm scratch
biscuit most anywhere that
sells tanks of unleaded.
Theres no local rule on how
to make them. Some are
giant, crumbly catheads;
others are little misshapen
drops. Some, like the
ones at Larrys Four-Way in
Monticello, lie flat like
the waxed paper theyre
wrapped in but pack
enough butter to keep you
full on a drive halfway
Biscuit
queen Felicia
Doster behind
the counter at
the Chevron
gas station.
across the state. A gas
station biscuit belongs to the
between places: the long
drives down country roads,
local radio and cheap coffee
keeping you company.
Dont expect to find Yelp
reviews, nor much in the
way of a sign. The locals
know where the best biscuits
are. If you want to find them,
youll have to pull over,
pop your head in, and ask,
like I do, Now, do yall
make your biscuits here?
If they dont, head on down
to the next place.
As Brandon Chonko,
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREW THOMAS LEE
a pastured chicken and
hog farmer, once told me,
South Georgia would
starve without gas stations.
In Reidsville, near his farm,
every single gas station has
a biscuit. After all, whats
the point of stopping for gas
if you cant fuel up, too?
 STARTERS
5
The New Kombucha
In just a few years kombucha went from slightly strange health food store potion
to the corner storeubiquitous beverage it is today. Well, its already got plenty of competition.
Below, a few of the drinks vying for the liquid limelight right now. AMIEL STANEK

Switc hel Te pache

Much beloved as a hot-weather thirst quencher in its
native Mexico, tepache is made from pineapple peels that
have been steeped in water along with brown sugar and
F L AVO R spices and allowed to ferment for days.
PROFILE
Spicy,
refreshing
A sweet-
tangy
combination H E A LT H
of water, CLAIMS
fier y ginger, Electrolyte -
cider rich; anti-
vinegar, and inflammatory;
a natural packed with
sweetener antioxidants
like maple
syrup or
molasses.
IN THE
WILD
Vermont
Switchel,
available
at
Think of this vtswitchel
stuff as hippie .com
Gatorade its
what you want
to chug after a F L AV O R H E A LT H IN THE WILD FERMENTED?
long run on a FERMENTED? PROFILE CLAIM Tepache Fizz Y /N
hot day. Y/ N Funky, sour Probiotic cocktail at
L.A.s Broken
Spanish

Water Kef ir S hrub

This bubbly concoction is brewed from flavored,
sweetened water or juice that has been fermented with

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSH DICKINSON (SWITCHEL, SHRUB); JULIA DUQUETTE (TEPACHE); MATT HAAS (WATER KEFIR)
the help of squishy grains full of friendly bacteria and
yeasts, similar to the mother used to make kombucha. F L AV O R
PROFILE
Tart, sweet,
A colonial- fruit y
era tonic
made from
vinegar thats H E A LT H
been infused CLAIM
with fruit, pH-
then mixed balancing
with sugar
to make a
sour syrup. IN THE
Big with the WILD
bespoke
cocktail set. We dig
Kansas City
Canning
Co.s flavors
(kansascity
canning
co.com)

Shrubs are
a great addition FERMENTED?
to boozy drinks, Y/ N
F L AV O R H E A LT H N THE WILD FERMENTED? but theyre also
PROFILE CLAIM Strawberry Y /N nice simply
Bright, tangy Probiotic Kefir at diluted with
Chicagos seltzer.
Cellar Door
Provisions

3 2 M A Y 2 0 17
S
T
A
R
T
E
R
S
Return the only one feeling
nostalgic. At least thats
what I thought as I slid

of the into a fake-wood-veneer

booth at Scarrs Pizza in

80s New York City, one of

several spots invoking the
pizza taverns of my youth
Pizza (see also Pizza Jerk in
Portland, OR; Dinos

Joint Tomato Pie in Seattle; Pizza

Brain in Philadelphia). I

6
thought about teaching my
I played sports for daughters to dip their crust
the pizza and Coke. After in ranch dressing, but I was
a Little League baseball too busy challenging the
game, the team would pile high score on Galaga. A .K.
into the back of the coachs
Scarrs Pizza red Chevy pickup and
in NYC head to the local pizza
place. You know the type:
cheesy pies made by
teenagers in Pink Floyd
tees, booths, pitchers of
soda, Tiffany-style lamps,
and, best of all, arcade
games. Turns out Im not

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU


STARTERS
I Went to France and
All I Got Was This Totally New
Outlook on Wine
Could a trip to one of the worlds greatest wine regions teach Marissa A. Ross
something that chugging bottles on her couch couldnt?
I
HAD NEVER BEEN TO FRANCE.
I know, who cares? Plenty of
people never go to France, and
theyre just fine. But Im a wine
writer, and French wines are my
everything. Any given glass can
send me spiraling into the kind
of wide-eyed crush usually
reserved for seventh-graders. Every bottle I
open might spark an obsession that has me
back at the wine shop the next day, grab-
bing every neck left on the shelf.
But why? Was it the romantic notion of
terroir or something technical like carbonic
maceration, or, as some truly terrible peo-
ple say, a certain je ne sais quoi ? Yeah, I
drink French wines from the corner of my
couch in Los Angeles daily, but I knew that
Id never really understand themor my
love of themuntil I actually visited France.
This trip was just a far-fetched fantasy of
mine until two of my favorite natural wine
importers, Amy Atwood (of Amy Atwood
Selections) and Jenny
Lefcourt (of Jenny & Fran-
ois Selections), invited
me to join their jaunt
through the Languedoc-
Roussillon region in the
South of France. I was
going to spend the week
tagging along with them
as they visited a handful
of winemakersand also
undoubtedly drink too
much and mispronounce
everything.
The week played out
like a Franoise Hardy
album on loop: melodic,
seductive, seemingly infi-
nite. It felt as though I was
skipping for six straight
days. Sure, my life in the
States writing in sweat-
3 6 M A Y 2 0 17
7
pants was great, but not as great as falling
in love over and over with each new bottle.
I watched dusk fall upon the Mediterranean
Sea while licking glasses of butterscotched
Grenache Gris in Peyriac-de-Mer and
practically swam in Mauzac Vert that tasted
like spiked Lemon-Lime Gatorade (in a
good way) in Gaillac. I sank my teeth into
Malbec from the early aughts in Cahors
and gritty cuves across the region teeming
with clay. Each wine was somehow one of
those that causes my head to involuntarily
swing back with a sigh after just a single
sip. It was that damn je ne sais quoi.
I wanted to come back from France
knowing exactly what that was, but I
learned that French wines were unexplain-
able for a reason. (Is that why the famous
phrase is in French?) None of the winemak-
ers we visited had a recipe, only a philoso-
phy and a pair of crossed fingers. Domaine
des 2 nes winery has three roaming
donkeys doing its fieldwork; cruising around
snacking on Syrah vines instead of pruning,
the animals fertilizing at the same time. Rmi
of Les Chemins de Bassac thinks its unin-
teresting to water his vines and relies solely
on whatever storms come his way. Simon
Busser doesnt schedule his harvesthe just
tastes the grapes until he decides that today
is the day to pick them. Everything is depen-
dent on nature.
This isnt to say there arent processes,
and there sure as hell is vision, but these
winemakers have embraced the chaos. Yes,
it can be messy, unknown, and disappoint-
ing. There are the years you dont get
enough rain, the vintages when your pt-
nat doesnt bubble, that experiment with
oxidation that it turns out no one really likes.
THAT CHAOS ALSO LEADS to everything
real and beautiful and memorable. Thats
what I learned I loved about French wines.
Its not one specific thing but rather the
space created for so many possibilities. Its
what brought me to my knees, scribbling
about Domaine Plageoles Gamay on the
wet cellar floor. Its why I stayed out too late
drinking Domaine Rimberts Cinsault and
got lost in misty ivy-covered alleyways
along the river in Saint-Chinian.
While an equation lends itself to
dependability, to being able to find the
same Pinot Noir in every corner wine store,
it often deprives us of the excitement and the
experimentation that inspires daydreams,
obsessions, and, frankly, good times. And
Id rather stop trying to determine exactly
why I love something and instead just love
ILLUSTRATION BY SAMRA AVDAGIC
it. It took a weeklong trip to France, on a
mission to learn about French wine, to real-
ize that Id never really get it.
BA wine columnist Marissa A. Ross is the
author of the upcoming Wine. All the Time.
 8
STARTERS

D
O
F O
S
S
T EL
R
VE HO
LO
2 017

Book
It!
Our highly specific
guide to the most
delicious places to
stay in America

Find us on
a cabin porch
PHOTOGRAPH BY NATALIE PULS

at Oregons
Suttle Lodge,
beer in hand,
fish sandwich in
our bellies (see
page 46).

3 8 M A Y 2 0 17 CONTINUES ON PAGE 45 >


Scandi-est
Way to
Wake Up
HEWING HOTEL
Minneapolis
Hygge, the buzzword
for Danish-style
coziness, isnt just a
winter thing in
Minneapolisits a
PHOTOGRAPHS: BENJAMIN RASMUSSEN (COOPER LOUNGE); ASHLEY SULLIVAN (WAFFLE)
lifestyle. Case in point:
breakfast at the citys
newest Nordic gem,
Tullibee. Chef Grae
Nonas, a Norwegian by
way of New England,
starts the day in the
Hewing lobby with
heart-shaped waffles
with local butter, herring
porridge, and gravlax
tartines. Even the coffee
mugs look snug in their
woolen Faribault
sleeves. ASHLEY MASON
The New Hotel Commandments 1. Thou shalt not charge guests for Wi-Fi. 2. Thy late -night room service menu is
2
STARTERS 8
FOOD
Norwegians LOVERS HOTELS
give the
Belgians some
stiff waf fle
competition.
For me, a nightcap is a
business-travel rite. Its my way
of establishing equilibrium in a
faraway place. Most of the
time its an unglamorous affair:
bottles of minibar booze in a
plastic tumbler, drunk in bed
while trying to figure out how
the cable works. (Dont judge.)
But on a stay at the Crawford
Hotel in Denvers Union
Station, I found myself just
steps from the Cooper
Lounge on the mezzanine of
Most the citys lovingly restored
(and still operational) beaux-
Posh arts train station. It felt almost
comically civilized, all marble
Bar in and cut crystal, Manhattans
deftly crafted and delivered
on silver trays. And after
a Train lingering in my plush armchair
just long enough and paying
Station
CR AWFORD HOTEL,
my bill by way of room
number instead of plastic, I
drifted to bed, re-centered,
knowing exactly where, and
Denver who, I was. AMIEL STANEK
When Im
Abroad
by L A R R Y
MCGUIRE
r e s t a u r a t e u r, Put
down your
Austin
luggage, then
I go to Paris shake off the
quarterly, and I day at the
always try to stay at Crawfords
Htel Relais Saint swanky bar.
Germain so that I can
eat at Le Comptoir.
Its impossible to get
in unless youre
a guest of the hotel,
which chef
Yves Camdeborde
owns. They also have
an amazing simple
breakfast every day
(stewed prunes,
cheese, croissants)
that Ive basically
stolen for Junes,
our new restaurant
in Austin.
M A Y 2 0 17 4 5
 3
STARTERS 8
FOOD
LOVERS HOTELS

Most Epic
Fried Fish
Sandwich
SUT TLE LODGE
Sisters, OR

Some go for the

postcard-worthy lakeside
setting in Deschutes National
Forest, about a three-hour
drive south of Portland.
Others go to unplug and
drink wine in front of a fire in
one of the cozy cabins. Us?
We go to the 15-acre Suttle
Lodge for the Fish and Chips
Sandwich. Chef Joshua
McFadden of Portlands Ava
If you ask
nicely, theyll Genes takes a fillet of trout,
add heirloom crusts it in crushed Kettle-
tomatoes brand potato chips, then
(summer deep-fries it to golden,
only!) and crunchy perfection. It comes
cheddar. tucked into a soft potato
roll with tartar sauce, pickles,
and crisp iceberg lettuce.
And yes, it tastes as good as
it looks. ANDREW KNOWLTON
PHOTOGRAPH BY LIZ BARCLAY

thy most holy of menus. 3. Thy furnishings shalt not be so modern as to be inoperable. 4. Thy bottled water shalt be

4 6 M A Y 2 0 17
 4
STARTERS 8
FOOD
LOVERS HOTELS
I assume you travel a lot
for work right now. I do. Last
year I ate a lot of airport food.
Whats your strategy?
Theres a couple ways to
go. You can do some research
before you fly. Or you can
pack, like, a turkey sandwich
on multigrain bread. Or you
can do what I do, which is eat a
Whopper out of a garbage can.
Yikes. What about on
airplanes? If I know Ill be
able to tune out and watch a
movie, Ill take food on the
flight. But Ill also take what they
offer me. Like Im a child of the
Depression. Are these free?!
Room service philosophy?
For jokes, Its shocking how quickly I go
food photos, from entering the hotel to late-
and more, stage Howard Hughes. I dont
follow him on
Twitter and get the room made up a lot, so
Instagram at Ill have like three different trays
@ikebarinholtz. in there. Is it The Greenwich
whose room service is from
Q&A
Eight
Questions
for Ike
Barinholtz
The Snatched actor on
room service, wine country,
and his truly terrible airport
eating habits
complimentar y. (At least the first bottle!) 5. Thy guests still appreciate small candies or cookies at turndown, you know?
4 8 M A Y 2 0 17
Locanda Verde? [Editors note:
Yes.] Theyre literally bringing
me some of the finest Italian
food in the country, handcrafted
by artisans, and Im eating
it while wearing a bathrobe.
Whats a city you look
forward to visiting? Ive
spent a lot of time shooting in
Atlanta, and the food scene
there is great. Kevin Gillespie
has this awesome spot called
Gunshow. When I was doing
Neighbors 2, the director
[Nicholas Stoller] and I would
eat fried chicken and grits at
this little place called South City
Kitchen every night. The one
night I didnt go, he sat next to
Charles Barkley. If youre at a
hard-core Southern restaurant,
the person you want to be next
to is Barkley! I was bummed.
Your new film, Snatched,
took you to Hawaii. Any
restaurant recs? The Pig and
the Lady. Its run by a local guy,
but theres some Vietnamese
influence. They do a sandwich
thats a combination of
a banh mi and a French dip:
thinly sliced beef, with pt
and pickled vegetables
served with this giant bowl of
broth with razor clams.
Sounds dangerous. Well,
my character sits around and
plays video games a lot, so
I wanted to develop a look for
that. I decided to let myself
go for three weeks. If I could
only have one drink, it would
be a goddamn pia colada,
and if you want to put some
strawberry daiquiri in there
and call it a Lava Flowgreat,
whatever, I will drink eight
or nine of those. By the end
I started to look like the late,
great Bruddah Iz, who sang
[the ukulele version of]
Somewhere Over the Rainbow.
Whats next? Im going
PHOTOGRAPH: MAARTEN DE BOER/GETTY IMAGES
to Napa with a bunch of my
high school friends this summer.
Wine tastings are fun because
its just adults whove said,
F*#% it, Im getting drunk
at 11 a.m. I dont want to drink
a beer out of a paper bag
on the corner, so Im going
to a place where its okay.
INTERVIEW BY DAVID WALTERS
 5
STARTERS 8
FOOD
LOVERS HOTELS
B&B We
Can Get
Behind
U R B A N C OW B OY B & B ,
Nashville
Im all for charm, but why,
at B&Bs, does charming mean
rooms that feel like theyre
haunted by the ghost of Mary
Todd Lincoln? No such
creepiness is in sight at Urban
Cowboy. The stately Victorian
seems more like your musician
friends crash pad. Make that
your very wealthy musician
friend, who left no leather couch
untufted and no bathtub
un-clawfooted. Its form over
function, sure (that tub distracted
me from the fact that my room
did not have an actual shower),
but damn, its fine form. And
those dubious-looking muffins
that always seem to accompany
the awkward B&B breakfast are
not in the repertoire of the man-
bunned cook who rolled into the
dining area and cooked made-
to-order eggs and sweet potato
hash. And then theres the gem
of a restaurant out back: Public
House, where everything from
olives to extra-crispy chicken
gets a hit of char from the wood-
burning grill. JULIA KRAMER
6. Thou shalt stock more than three hangers in thy closet. 7. Thy bathrobes better be plush. 8. Thy rooms must have
5 0 M A Y 2 0 17
Best Way to
Balance all
Those Wine
Tastings
L AS ALCOBAS,
N a p a Va l l e y
Cyclists at this new
Napa hotel can check out
the stunning surroundings
with a map of suggested
routes and, better yet, snacks
like house-made energy bars
(almonds, dates, espresso salt)
and a prosciutto and butter
sandwich from chef (and
cycling nut) Chris Cosentino.
NIKITA RICHARDSON
Think of Urban Cowboy as the younger, cooler
sibling of ever y B&B youve ever stayed at.
When Im
Abroad
by AARON
S I LV E R M A N ,
R o s e s L u x u r y ,
Washington, D.C.
Honestly,
PHOTOGRAPHS: BEN FITCHETT (URBAN COWBOY); JOSH DICKINSON (SHAKE SHACK)
Flatts in Noto,
we didnt know
Japan, perched on the you could do
mountains by the better than a
ocean, has over -the - room service
top hospitalit y. The BLT.
hotels chef and his
wife hooked me up:
They introduced me to Room Service Savior
their ceramics maker, CHICAGO ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION,
let me explore the Chicago
yuzu trees on the
property, and sneaked Imagine lying in a sprawling hotel bed, watching a
me into a tiny local rom-com, trying to deal with a punishing hangover. Then
fish market. When I imagine your doorbell ringing, and its room service, and
left, they gave me jars there is a Shake Shack burger and fries at the door. This
of their homemade fish really happens at the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel,
sauce made solely a 19th-century restoration with a Shack off its lobby (just
from squid, which the one good reason to stay there). MERYL ROTHSTEIN
area is famous for.
 6
STARTERS 8
FOOD
LOVERS HOTELS

Broccoli
(and a little
moss for good
measure) at
Single
Thread.

Farm to
Table in
20 Minutes
SINGLE THREAD
Healdsburg, CA

Attention all big-birthday-

celebrating, anniversary-trip-
booking readers: Single Thread
is the newest member of the
Very Special Hotel canon. Run
by husband-and-wife duo Kyle
and Katina Connaughton, its a
restaurant/inn/farm in Sonoma
County, where everything from
the peas to the olive oil comes
from the property. Kyle (late of
the Fat Duck, Michel Bras)
prepares seasonal meals, while
Katina raises produce on the
five-acre farm nearby. Room
service breakfast can mean
fresh-squeezed satsuma juice
and Dungeness crab. Dinner is
PHOTOGRAPH BY CARLOS CHAVARRA

an 11-course Japanese-leaning
meal, where the charred leeks
on your cod will have started
the day on the farm. N .R.

coffee. Or thy lobby better have a solid coffee spot. 9. Thy premises shalt include a gym, even if thine guests dont

5 2 M A Y 2 0 17
 7
STARTERS 8
FOOD
LOVERS HOTELS

When Im
All-Star Abroad
Lineup by ANDREA
THE LINE, REUSING
Washington, D.C. The Durham,
Durham, NC
If we find a hotel
that happens to have, I love Da Caino in
Montemerano, Italy.
say, a restaurant Incredible hyper -
specializing in hearth- seasonal food and the No,
most beautiful cellar this isnt a
cooked local game super -cute
Ive ever seen. But shop in town,
or a diner-and-Asian- the thing I cant stop its the Honor
inspired-tasting-menu thinking about is Pantr y at
spot from a top chef, breakfast. We sat in Rivertown
front of a roaring fire Lodge.
we book a room in eating testa and ham,
a heartbeat. Throw in a aged sheeps-milk
Third Wave coffee shop cheese, homemade
butter, and fig
and a bar helmed preserves so delicious
by a rockstar bartender, we carried it home
and youve got the and made it
last for months.
just-opened Line D.C.
Woodberry Kitchens
Favorite Minibar
Spike Gjerde and That Isnt Technically
Makettos Erik Bruner-
Yang have teamed up
a Minibar
RIVERTOWN LODGE Hudson, NY
to bless the neoclassical

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY RIVERTOWN LODGE; DAVID WILLIAMS (SOFTSERVE); PETER FRANK EDWARDS (BRUNERYANG)
church turned hotel with
five distinct food and Think of the Honor Pantry at Rivertown Lodge like a
drink concepts. And we hallway vending machine, if vending machines were filled
havent even gotten to with things like small-batch Talbott & Arding pimiento cheese
the room service and Piggery cured ham, all made in (or very close to)
Hudson, NY. Then theres the fact that theres no eye-gouging
congee yet. A .S. markup: Everything from La Esquina salsa to Newburgh IPA
six-packs are priced comparably with a corner store. A .M.

Top New Yorkers are

suckers for rooftops,
Soft- and the space atop
Serve Williamsburgs William
Vale is no exception.
with a Home to Andrew
View Carmellinis burger-
and-ice -cream-slinging
Chef Erik Bruner -Yang

THE Airstream, Mister Dips,

WILLIAM its a good place to
grab a cone of the Malter
VA L E ,
Cronkite (vanilla-and-
NYC malted-chocolate swirl
with chocolate dip) while
enjoying a view of the
Manhattan skyline. N .R.

quite get around to using it. 10. Thy outlets shalt not be hidden behind thine furniture. (And if thou art so generous as to

5 4 M A Y 2 0 17
 8
STARTERS 8
FOOD
LOVERS HOTELS

Best Place to
Hang All Day
HOTEL EMMA
San Antonio
You
The sprawling Hotel cant beat
Emma isnt just a place to the location (or
crash in style; its also home the vibes) of
base for exploring San the Roman and
Williams
Antonios Pearl District, a designed Hotel
vibrant 16-block area once Emma.
home to the legendary Pearl
Brewery. You can spend
a full day without leaving
the Pearls boundaries
andstill consume everything
from croissants to tacos to
snapper collars. Heres my
favorite way to do it. A .K.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICOLE FRANZEN. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

9 A . M . Grab a 10 : 3 0 A . M . tacos) along with courtesy of the room, go to Steve

cup at Local Coffee, If its the weekend, lesser-known snacks BCycle bike share. McHughs Cured
where youll hang its farmers market (like panuchos for dinner. Make
5 P. M . Its happy
with, yes, the locals. time in the Pearl. and tlayudas). sure you go big on
Remember: Dried hour! Grab a Gold the charcuterie.
9 : 3 0 A . M . Two 2 P. M . Pop into the Export Lager (brewed
chiles make good
former Thomas Keller Texas outpost of the on the premises) 10 : 3 0 P. M .
souvenirs.
acolytes run Bakery Culinary Institute at Southerleigh Head back to the
Lorraine, which 12 P. M . Chef of America to book brewery. Pair it with Emmas dramatic
means the croissants Johnny Hernandezs a cooking class. fried snapper throats vaulted-ceiling bar,
and morning buns La Gloria specializes (i.e., fish collar). Sternewirth, for
are legit. Grab some in the street food of 4 P. M . Stoke the a nightcapor two.
macarons for an Mexico. Order some appetite with a spin 8 P. M . After a quick Then its off to bed
afternoon sugar fix. old standards (like around the Pearl, recharge in your (luckily, its not far).

have a cellphone dock, it shall accommodate the current iPhone connector. It hath been five years. Giveth us a break.)

5 6 M A Y 2 0 17
 kitchen RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS

THREECHILE
H A R I SS A , P. 6 2 ,
H E R E S L AT H E R E D
ON LAMB CHOPS

C H E F A LO N S H AYA has Monday nights off from Shaya, his New Orleans restaurant, but youll find him
in the kitchen all the same. He and his wife, Emily, kick off the week by hosting a feast for family and friends,
Dinner taking the opportunity to cook, well, whatever he wants for a change. Last week I made soup dumplings,
Tonight says Shaya, who made his name cooking bright veg-forward Israeli food. I like to break out of my comfort
zone. Whatevers on the menu, his approach to home cooking is the same as it is at his restaurant, which
means sauces spiked with fragrant spices and big hits of aciditythink an aromatic harissa that has the power
to kick up any weeknight protein. (Chef, were free next Monday, so you know.) CL AIRE SAFFITZ

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU M A Y 2 0 17 61
 k
DINNER HOW TOSHOP FOR SPICES
TONIGHT Shaya goes through a ton of spices. I reach for whole coriander
and cumin all the time, he says. Even so, he advises against buying
in bulk. A few months is all they last, then you should get rid of
them. I buy small jars because I know itll make me get more later.

Fire Power
This irresistibly smoky-spicy
condiment lasts for a month and
perks up everything from
scrambled eggs to lamb chops

Three-Chile Harissa
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUPS

15 dried chiles de rbol

2 dried guajillo chiles
1 dried ancho chile
1 Tbsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. coriander seeds
3 garlic cloves, smashed
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika
1 tsp. kosher salt
cup olive oil, divided

Place rbol, guajillo, and ancho chiles

in a large heatproof measuring glass.
Pour boiling water over to submerge,
cover with plastic wrap, and let sit until
chiles are very pliable and cool enough
to handle, 1520 minutes. Drain; remove
stems and seeds and discard (wear
gloves for this part if you have them).
Toast cumin and coriander in a
dry small skillet over medium-low heat,
tossing constantly, until very fragrant,
about 3 minutes. Transfer to a food
processor, add garlic, and pulse until
spices are broken up and garlic forms
a paste. Add chiles and pulse until chiles
form a coarse paste. Add lemon juice,
vinegar, tomato paste, paprika, and
salt and process until mostly smooth
but mixture still has a little texture. With
the motor running, stream in cup
oil. Process until oil is incorporated.
Transfer harissa to a bowl. Pour
remaining cup oil over top.
D O A H E A D : Harissa can be made
1 month ahead. Cover and chill.

6 2 M A Y 2 0 17 C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 67 >
 k
DINNER
TONIGHT
I use the broiler a lot. Im used to a wood-
burning oven at work. With the broiler,
youre mimicking that intense heat at home.
CHEF ALON SHAYA

Zest and Brightest

The one-two punch of citrus
zest and juice balances all that
anchovy richness in our new
favorite dressing for spring veg

Charred Asparagus
with Citrus Bagna Cauda
4 S E RV I N G S .

2Tbsp. skin-on almonds

2oil-packed anchovy fillets
4garlic cloves, smashed
1sprig oregano
1tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1tsp. finely grated orange zest
2Tbsp. unsalted butter
3Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2Tbsp. fresh orange juice
1Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 lb. asparagus, trimmed

Place a rack in upper third of oven

and preheat to 350. Scatter almonds
across a rimmed baking sheet and
toast, tossing once, until darkened a little
and fragrant, 810 minutes. Let cool
slightly, then coarsely chop.
Cook anchovies, garlic, oregano,
lemon zest, orange zest, butter,
and 2 Tbsp. oil in a small saucepan over
low heat, swirling occasionally, until
garlic is golden, 1520 minutes. Remove
from heat; stir in orange and lemon
juices and season with salt and pepper.
Let bagna cauda sit while you prepare
the asparagus.
Heat broiler. Toss asparagus with
remaining 1 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed
baking sheet to coat; season with salt
and pepper. Broil until deeply browned
in spots and crisp-tender, 58 minutes.
Toss asparagus and bagna cauda
together on a platter; top with almonds.

M A Y 2 0 17 6 7
 k
DINNER WA R N I N G :
TONIGHT This fragrant
spiced chvre
may ruin you for
cheese plates
once and for all.

Dearest Schmear
Looking for a throw-together
app that seems way fancier than
it is? Look no further than this
gussied-up goat cheese situation
Marinated Goat Cheese
with Herbs and Spices
6 S E RV I N G S
8 oz. fresh goat cheese
1 tsp. allspice berries
tsp. coriander seeds
3
2
garlic cloves, smashed
3" strips orange zest
2 fresh bay leaves
1 star anise pod
cup olive oil
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 baguette, sliced " thick
on a diagonal
Flaky sea salt
Gently break goat cheese into large
pieces; arrange in a serving bowl. Let sit
at room temperature while you infuse oil.
Crush allspice and coriander with the
flat side of a chefs knife. Place in a small
saucepan along with garlic, orange
zest, bay leaves, star anise, oil, and red
pepper flakes. Cook over low, swirling
pan occasionally, until garlic is golden,
1520 minutes. Pour over goat cheese.
Let sit until cool, about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 425. Arrange bread
in a single layer on a rimmed baking
sheet and toast until golden brown
around the edges, 58 minutes.
Sprinkle marinated goat cheese with
flaky salt and serve with toast.
D O A H E A D : Goat cheese can be
marinated 3 hours ahead. Store lightly
covered at room temperature.

6 8 M A Y 2 0 17 C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 72 >
 k
DINNER STOCK YOUR PANTRY WITHBANANA PEPPERS
TONIGHT Were always using pickled or preserved ingredients at work, Shaya says. In the
restaurant, its typically something saved from a previous season, like put-up peaches or
figs. At home, it could be jarred banana peppers or pepperoncini. I love the vinegary
bite they give, he says. Opt for whole peppers over sliced, and avoid artificial coloring.

Shades of Green
Zaatars depth backs up the
freshness of parsley and cilantro
in this Middle Eastern riff on
a classic salsa verde
Broiled Red Snapper
with Zaatar Salsa Verde
4 S E RV I N G S
2 Tbsp. pine nuts
4 6-oz. skin-on, boneless red
snapper fillets, patted dry
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
tsp. ground coriander
4 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil
cup finely chopped cilantro
1
cup finely chopped parsley
small garlic clove, finely grated
1 tsp. zaatar
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. finely chopped pickled
banana peppers
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Zaatar, a Middle
Eastern spice blend that includes
sumac, herbs, and sesame seeds, can
be found at Middle Eastern markets,
specialty foods stores, and online.
Toast pine nuts in a dry small skillet
over medium-low heat, tossing often,
until golden and fragrant, about
3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board.
Let cool, then coarsely chop.
Heat broiler. Season flesh side of
snapper fillets with salt and pepper, then
sprinkle with coriander. Drizzle 2 Tbsp.
oil onto a small rimmed baking sheet
and place fish, flesh side down, on top.
Drizzle skin side with 2 Tbsp. oil; season
with salt and pepper. Broil until skin is
crisp and browned and flesh is cooked
through, 810 minutes. Remove fish
from broiler and let rest 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together cilantro,
parsley, garlic, zaatar, red pepper
flakes, and remaining cup oil in
a small bowl; season salsa verde with
salt and pepper.
Transfer fish to a platter, placing
skin side up. Stir lemon juice, banana
peppers, and pine nuts into salsa
verde and spoon over fish.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

k HEALTHYISH
Renewable
Energy
You cant hit a trendy coffee
shop or caf without encountering
a display of nutrient-packed
energy bars in all shapes and
sizes. Making your own is
easyand way more delicious
re c i p e b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z
Cocoa-Nut Energy Bites
1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil,
melted, cooled,
plus more for pan
3 Tbsp. cacao nibs
5 oz. pitted Medjool dates
(about 8)
cup nut butter
3 Tbsp. ground chia seeds,
ground flaxseed, and/or
ground hemp seeds
1 tsp. kosher salt
tsp. ground cinnamon
3 Tbsp. almond flour or meal
3 Tbsp. unsweetened
shredded coconut
Flaky sea salt
74 M A Y 2 0 17
The chia,
flax, and hemp
seeds in these
little bites
pack a serious
nutritional
punch.
Brush an 8x4" loaf pan with oil;
line with parchment paper, leaving
an overhang on long sides. Pulse
cacao nibs in a food processor to
a fine powder; transfer to a bowl.
Place dates in a small heatproof
bowl; pour boiling water over to
submerge. Cover with plastic wrap;
let sit until softened, 810 minutes.
Drain dates and transfer to food
processor. Add nut butter and
remaining 1 Tbsp. oil; process in
long pulses until dates disintegrate
and ingredients come together
(mixture will be crumbly). Add
seeds, kosher salt, and cinnamon;
pulse to incorporate. Add almond
flour, ground cacao nibs, and
shredded coconut and pulse just
to combine. Press into prepared
pan in an even layer, compacting
as firmly as possible (it will look
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.
slightly greasy, but oils will solidify
once mixture is cold). Cover
and chill until firm, about 1 hour.
Uncover and use sides of
parchment paper to lift bar out of
pan. Cut into a 6x3 grid to form
squares; sprinkle with sea salt.
D O A H E A D : Energy bites can
be made 5 days ahead. Cover
and chill, or freeze up to 2 weeks.
Makes 18
k KITCHEN
SKETCHES
I F T H E R E S as to say its addictive.
ONE THING I DO The flavor is complex, but

One Sauce
Fits All
This isnt the only green sauce
youll ever make. But it might
be the best one
b y A L A I N A S U L L I VA N
to make my
life easier during the week,
its make a sauce. I fix a
small jars worth, stick it in
the fridge, and rest easy
knowing that Ive got a
dependable, phone-a-friend
lifeline for after-work meals.
A sauce breathes life into
humble rice and perks up
roasted vegetables. It
complements rich meats,
makes salads sing,
and completes a grain
bowl in one swoosh.
There are a million ways
to make an herb sauce;
this is the version Ive got
on speed dial right now.
Its basically a combination
of the ingredients I reach
for most often (miso, tahini,
honey) blended together
with herbs into a single
condiment. The result is tangy,
vibrantI may go as far
the process isnt. If you
have 15 minutes and a food
processor, youre there.
And its very forgiving. I only
roughly measure, and
Id urge you to play around
and make it your own.
Begin by washing some
herbs: a small bunch of
cilantro or parsley and
a small bundle of chives.
Dont sweat exact amounts.
Trim away the tough part
of the stems and then toss
the herbs right into your
food processor. Next, grate
a knob of ginger (about a
1" piece) and add that.
Squeeze in the juice of
1 lemon and 1 lime, and
add 1 Tbsp. apple cider
vinegar. Add 3 Tbsp. miso
(I like either sweet white
or chickpea miso), 2 Tbsp.
olive oil, 4 tsp. tahini,
and 1 Tbsp. raw honey.
I grind up some coriander
seeds and throw that into
the mix. Pulse it together (to
help control the consistency),
and pour in a little water
to thin it if needed; it should
be pourable but not too
runny. Season with salt
and pepper, taste, add a
little more of whatever it
needs, and then put it on
everything. (Except maybe
chocolate cake, although
Ive never tried that.)

Find more of
Alainas columns
at bonappetit
.com/sketches

7 6 M A Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY A L A I N A S U L L I VA N
 THE MENU

k THE PART Y
jerk chicken
MISS OLLIES JERK CHICKEN
COCONUT RICE AND PEAS
CUCUMBER CHOW
MANGO AND
GARLICKY PLANTAINS
SAUT ED COLLARD GREENS RUM PUNCH

Island
Time
At Miss Ollies, Sarah Kirnon
brings the boldly spiced
jerk chicken of the Caribbean to
Oakland, CA. Heres how to
borrow it for your next grill-out

stuck with her,

even as she tried
her hand at Italian,
French, and Creole
cuisine. Now, at
Oaklands beloved
Miss Ollies, Kirnon
Sarah Kirnon puts a novel spin
has been making on the food of her
fiery jerk chicken youthlike spicy
and sweet plantains cucumber and
since before mango chow, soul-
she could drive. warming rice and
Growing up in peas, and tangy
Barbados with collard greens that
her grandmother, bite back. The best
Miss Ollie, and part? With a little
nine other family specialty shopping,
members, she you can make
learned to think all these dishes for
seasonally and your next backyard
cook on a large get-together.
scale. (We had Just dont go out and
a plot of land and buy jerk-in-a-jar.
farm animals, Making this food
Kirnon says. And from scratch,
it wasnt trendy or Kirnon says, youre
hip.) But the island really going to taste
cuisine she made things differently.
back then always NIKITA RICHARDSON

7 8 M A Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 k
THE PART Y A FEW DAYS PRIOR THE DAY BEFORE THE MORNING OF THAT AFTERNOON
jerk chicken Buy the plantains and Soak kidney beans. Cook beans, let Cook side dishes,
THE PL AN
let them ripen. Prepare Marinate chicken chicken come to mix rum punch, and
HERES HOW
the simple syrup in a large bowl. room temp, and prep finish chow. One
TO PULL OFF
THIS PART Y for the rum punch up Cover and place chow ingredients, hour before the party,
to three days early. in refrigerator. minus the cucumbers. grill the chicken.

ALL ABOUT ALLSPICE

Its simply not jerk
HOT STUFF chicken without allspice,
Scotch bonnets (and which lends warm
habaneros) are very, notes to the marinade.
very hot. If this is your
first time cooking with
them, stay on the low
end of the range.

SWEET THING
MILK IT! When fried, ripe
This creamy take on plantains develop a
rice and peas calls for crunchy, caramelized
coconut milk, which exterior, no sugar
adds a distinct richness added. Head to Prep
and sweet aroma School, p. 157, for
to the dish. See p. 84 tips on knowing when
for the recipe. theyre peaking.

8 0 M A Y 2 0 17
 Rum Punch
k Heat 1 cups
sugar and 1 cups
THE PART Y Its not a party David Rudder Beloved (1998) water in a small
jerk chicken without some tunes. Spice and Company saucepan over low,
THE Kirnon shares a Born in Barbados (2010) stirring, until sugar
SOUNDTR ACK
few of her favorite Peter Tosh Legalize It (1976) is dissolved. Chill
sun-tinged albums: Calypso Rose Soul on Fire (1990) syrup until cold,
about 30 minutes.
Mix syrup, one
750 ml bottle rum
(preferably Mount
Gay Extra Old),
1 cups fresh lime
juice, cup
Angostura bitters,
and 4 cups water in
a large pitcher; add
just enough ice to
chill and grate some
nutmeg over top.
Ladle into ice-filled
glasses and garnish

. 84
with lime wheels.
10 servings
S P
IN

Sauted
TA

Collard Greens
AN
PL

Heat cup olive

KY

oil in a large skillet

IC
RL

over medium. Cook

A
G

1 thinly sliced
medium sweet
onion, stirring often,
until translucent and
starting to brown
RUM PUNCH
around the edges,
58 minutes. Stir in
1 tsp. paprika;
season with salt.
Add 12 cups thinly
sliced collard green
R C H O W P. 8 4
ND CUCUMBE leaves a handful at
GO A
MAN a time, stirring to wilt
after each addition
before adding more;
cook until all greens
are wilted but still
somewhat firm, about
4 minutes. Stir in
3 Tbsp. coconut
vinegar or 2 Tbsp.
apple cider vinegar.
Season with more
salt. 8 servings
SAU
TE
D C
OLL
AR
D
G
RE
EN
S

8 2 M A Y 2 0 17
 k
THE PART Y
RECIPES
jerk chicken
Miss Ollies Jerk Chicken
8 S E RV I N G S Lets get a technicality out
of the way: Classic jerk chicken is grilled
over pimento wood (which comes from
the tree that also produces allspice berries).
If you want to order some online, we
salute you. Everybody else: Hardwood
or briquettes will have to do.
1 bunch chives, cut into 1" pieces
48 Scotch bonnet chiles or
habanero chiles
5 garlic cloves, crushed
cup malt vinegar
cup soy sauce
2 Tbsp. Jamaican rum
2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or
1 Tbsp. Morton kosher salt
2 tsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
tsp. ground cloves
8 pieces skin-on, bone-in chicken
legs (about 6 lb. total), drumsticks
and thighs separated, patted dry
Vegetable oil (for grill)
Blend chives, chiles, garlic, vinegar,
soy sauce, rum, salt, allspice, nutmeg,
and cloves in a blender until smooth.
Place chicken in large bowl and pour
jerk marinade over. Turn thighs and
drumsticks several times to coat. Cover
and chill, turning chicken pieces
once, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
Remove chicken from marinade,
wiping off any excess, and let come to
room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Discard marinade.
Prepare grill for 2-zone heat (for a
charcoal grill, bank two-thirds of coals
on one half of grill and scatter remaining
coals over other side; for a gas grill,
set one burner to high heat and the
remaining burners to medium-low heat).
Lightly brush grate with oil. Arrange
chicken drumsticks and thighs, skin side
down, on grate over hottest part of
grill and grill, turning halfway through,
until lightly charred, 510 minutes.
Move chicken to cooler part of grill
and continue to grill, turning several
times, until an instant-read thermometer
inserted into the thickest part registers
165, 2025 minutes longer.
Transfer chicken to a platter and
let rest 10 minutes before serving.
8 4 M A Y 2 0 17
Mango and Cucumber Chow
8 S E RV I N G S Slightly unripe mangoes
are an imperfect but successful
substitute for the green mangoes used
to make this dish at Miss Ollies.
1 large shallot, thinly sliced into rings
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 Scotch bonnet chile or habanero
chile, thinly sliced crosswise, seeds
removed if less heat is desired
cup fresh lime juice
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 ripe but firm mangoes, peeled,
cut into "-thick spears
1 English hothouse cucumber, halved
lengthwise, seeds removed,
thinly sliced crosswise
cup chopped cilantro
Freshly ground black pepper
Toss shallot, garlic, chile, lime juice, and
salt in a medium bowl. Add mangoes
and cucumber and toss again. Cover; let
sit at room temperature until shallot and
cucumber are softened and juicy and
flavors come together, 4560 minutes.
To serve, add cilantro to chow and
toss well; season generously with pepper.
D O A H E A D : Chow (without cilantro)
can be made 3 hours ahead. Cover
and chill.
Garlicky Plantains
8 S E RV I N G S
You can do the first fry
ahead of time, then soak the plantains
in garlic water, dry, and hold at room
temperature until closer to mealtime.
6 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 cup vegetable oil, divided
3 large ripe plantains (about
2 lb. total), peeled, halved
lengthwise, sliced crosswise
on a diagonal into 3" pieces
Kosher salt
Combine garlic and 2 cups water in
a medium bowl; set aside.
Heat cup oil in a large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-high.
Working in 3 batches, fry plantains in
a single layer, turning once, until tender
and golden all over, about 5 minutes.
Transfer to paper towels to drain. Pour
out oil; discard. Reserve skillet.
Gently press down on plantains one
at a time with the flat side of a chefs
knife or wooden spoon to flatten slightly.
Transfer to bowl with reserved garlic
water and let soak 5 minutes.
Remove plantains from garlic water
and pat dry with paper towels. Heat
remaining cup oil in reserved skillet
over medium-high. Fry plantains again,
turning once, until deep golden brown,
68 minutes. Transfer to fresh paper
towels to drain; sprinkle with salt.
Coconut Rice and Peas
8 S E RV I N G S If you opt for canned
instead of dried beans in this dish,
they wont be quite as creamy,
but youll save yourself some time.
1 cup dried red kidney beans,
soaked overnight, drained
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. chopped oregano
1 tsp. chopped thyme
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 13.5-oz. can unsweetened
coconut milk
2 cups basmati rice
Place beans in a large saucepan and
cover with 6 cups cold water. Bring
to a simmer over medium heat, skimming
foam from surface as needed, then
reduce heat to maintain a bare simmer.
Cook, adding water as needed to keep
beans covered by at least 1", until beans
are completely tender, 11 hours.
Heat butter in a medium skillet
over medium. Add shallot, oregano,
and thyme and cook, stirring often, until
shallot is translucent, about 4 minutes.
Add garlic and cook, stirring, until
fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove
skillet from heat. Use a slotted spoon
to transfer beans to skillet and stir to
combine. Season with salt and pepper.
Set aside.
Pour out all but 2 cups bean cooking
liquid from saucepan; add coconut milk
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY REBECCA BARTOSHESKY.
and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
While liquid is heating up, place rice
in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse under cold
water until water runs clear. Add rice to
saucepan, reduce heat to a bare simmer,
and cover. Cook rice 10 minutes, then
uncover and stir in reserved bean
mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning with
more salt if needed. Cover pot and
cook until rice is tender, 810 minutes.
Remove from heat and uncover. Fluff
rice with a fork.
D O A H E A D : Rice and beans can
be made 1 hour ahead. Keep covered.
Reheat gently before serving.
k COOK
THIS NOW
Springs
Finest Stalk
It goes sweet, swings savory,
and packs a tart punch. No
wonder were so excited by the
first sighting of rhubarb
recipes by LILY MIRABELLE FREEDMAN
Quick-Pickled
Rhubarb Salad
Pack 2 rhubarb stalks,
sliced on a diagonal,
into a heatproof 1-pint jar.
Bring 1 cup red wine
vinegar, cup sugar,
The redder, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and
thinner stalks are cup water to a boil in
the sweetest a small saucepan, stirring
and most tender.
to dissolve sugar and salt.
Pour into jar. Cover and
chill until cold, at least
1 hour and up to 1 week.
Toss together 1 fennel
bulb, halved, cored, very
thinly sliced, 3 celery
stalks, thinly sliced on a
diagonal, 1 cup drained
pickled rhubarb, and
2 Tbsp. pickling liquid;
season with salt. Arrange
salad on a platter; drizzle
with olive oil and grind
some pepper over. Top
with celery leaves and
remaining drained pickled
rhubarb. 4 servings
8 8 M A Y 2 0 17
Rhubarb Compote
Cook cup sugar in
a medium saucepan over
medium-low, undisturbed,
until mostly melted, 68
minutes. Stir edges into the
center with a heatproof
spatula; cook, swirling pan
occasionally, until caramel
turns dark amber, about
2 minutes. Stir in 3 Tbsp.
white wine vinegar and
2 cups chopped rhubarb.
Partially cover and cook,
stirring occasionally,
until rhubarb is very soft,
810 minutes. Transfer
to a small bowl; let cool.
Stir in another 1 tsp.
vinegar; season with salt
and pepper. 4 servings
Slow-Roasted
Rhubarb
Preheat oven to 350.
Place 12 oz. rhubarb,
sliced on a diagonal
into 2" lengths, and one
3" piece ginger, peeled,
thinly sliced, in an 8x8"
baking dish; scatter cup
sugar over and scrape in
seeds from vanilla
bean, split lengthwise;
discard pod. Toss; let sit
until rhubarb releases some
juices, 2025 minutes.
Roast rhubarb, tossing
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI
once, until tender and
juices are syrupy, 2025
minutes. Let cool slightly.
Serve over ice cream
or shortbread. 4 servings
P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
k BA S B E S T

Top of the
Morning
Master the morning bun, our
sticky, sugary, tender, crackly-
bottomed breakfast classic
b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z

THE DOUGH
Letting some of the flour
ferment with the yeast
and most of the liquid
(a mixture called a
sponge or pre-ferment)
before adding the rest
of the ingredients creates
deeper flavor youll
taste in the baked buns.
T H E F LO U R T H E F L AVO R
Incorporating whole Magic happens when you
wheat flour into the THE SHAPE combine vanilla, citrus
bread flour means the Cutting the dough at T H E TO P P I N G S zest, and warm spices like
dough will be nutty and a slight angle gives the A coating of honey butter cinnamon and cardamom.
complex, and have treats a topsy-turvy and a sprinkling of fine The result is a floral, fruity
a stretchy pull when look, which is more fun sanding sugar at the end combination thats greater
you tear off a piece. than your average bun. add crunch and sheen. than the sum of its parts.

9 0 M A Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 k
BA S B E S T
morning
buns
Morning Buns
MAKES 24 Too many morning buns for
your crowd? This recipe halves easily.
DOUGH
1 -oz. envelope active dry yeast
(about 2 tsp.)
1 cup whole milk, warmed,
plus cup chilled milk
1 tsp. plus cup honey
4 large eggs, separated,
plus 1 large egg yolk
3 cups (or more) bread flour, divided
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp.
Morton kosher salt
2 tsp. finely grated orange
zest (optional)
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut
into pieces, room temperature
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon
tsp. ground cardamom
cup honey, divided
12 Tbsp. (1 sticks) unsalted
butter, divided
Bread flour (for surface)
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
Fine sanding sugar or granulated
sugar (for sprinkling)
9 2 M A Y 2 0 17
KEY INGREDIENTBUT TER
What makes these buns so delicious? In a word: fat. This quantity of butter
leads to a softer dough, which needs to be chilled thoroughly before its
rolled out. Preparing the dough a day ahead and refrigerating it overnight
divides up the work and makes the buns a cinch to form the next morning.
D O U G H Whisk yeast, 1 cup warm
milk, and 1 tsp. honey in the bowl of
an electric mixer fitted with paddle
attachment to combine, then let sit until
foamy, about 5 minutes. Add egg whites,
2 cups bread flour, and remaining
cup honey and beat with paddle on
medium-high speed until mixture is very
light and thick, about 3 minutes. Remove
paddle, scrape mixture back into bottom
of bowl, and sprinkle whole wheat flour
and 1 cups bread flour over top (do
not stir). Place bowl in a warm spot and
let sit uncovered until mixture is bubbling
up around flour, 3040 minutes.
Add salt, orange zest (if using), vanilla
extract, 5 egg yolks, and remaining
cup cold milk to mixture and mix with
dough hook on low speed until a shaggy
dough forms. Increase speed to medium
and work dough until it is smooth, soft,
and elastic and climbing up the hook,
810 minutes (it will clear the sides
of the bowl but still stick slightly to the
bottom; if after 5 minutes the dough
is still very sticky, add bread flour a
tablespoonful at a time until dough is just
tacky). Reduce mixer speed to medium-
low and add butter pieces one at a time,
letting dough absorb butter completely
before adding the next piece. This part
takes a while, so be patient. Dough should
be very smooth and slightly tacky and
have a soft, buoyant texture. Cover and
chill at least 8 hours and up to 16 hours.
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Cook brown
sugar, cinnamon, cardamom, cup
honey, and 8 Tbsp. butter in a small
saucepan over low heat, stirring
constantly, just until butter is melted
and mixture is smooth. Let cool.
Punch down dough and turn out onto
a lightly floured surface. Divide in half,
place 1 piece back into bowl, cover, and
chill while you work. Roll out remaining
piece of dough on a sheet of lightly
floured parchment paper to roughly a
16x12" rectangle. Spread half of brown
sugar mixture over dough. Starting at side
closest to you (make sure its a long side)
and using the parchment paper to help
you, roll dough into a tight log. If dough
gets too warm or sticky to work with,
slide (with parchment) onto a baking sheet
and chill until firm, then proceed. Place
log, seam side down, on a rimmed baking
sheet. Chill until firm, 2030 minutes.
Repeat process with second half of
dough and remaining brown sugar
mixture. Spray cups of two 12-cup muffin
pans with nonstick spray. Place a rack
in center of oven and preheat to 350.
Trim chilled dough logs about " from
ends and cut each on a slight diagonal
into 12 equal pieces. Place, cut side up,
in prepared muffin pan and cover
loosely with plastic wrap. Let sit at room
temperature until puffed and expanded
to edges of muffin cups (dough will
spring back when poked but hold a slight
indentation), 2535 minutes.
Bake buns, rotating pans once left
to right and front to back, until golden
brown all over, 2025 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 4 Tbsp.
butter and remaining cup honey
in a small saucepan over low, stirring
a bit, until smooth. Remove from heat.
Pull buns out of oven and brush tops
with butter mixture; sprinkle with sanding
sugar. Transfer buns to a wire rack
(if sugar cools in pan, it will harden and
buns will stick); let cool.
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI
 city guides
LONDON

London, Street Style Clockwise from top lef t:

Padella s marble pasta bar;
No reservations, no Michelin stars, no fuss. The citys buzzing Chick n Sours crispy chicken
with spots serving smoky ribs, smooth congee, and other global bun; Sri Lankan on the go
at Hoppers; pickles and pork
dishes that liven up the posh capitals food scene by K A R S H I N G TO N G ribs from Smokestak

P H OTO G R A P H S BY I N N A KO ST U KOVS K Y CONTINUES ON PAGE 99

 k From left: The Hoppers scene See Sourcebook (page 160)
by day; Hoppers bone to find addresses and contact
CITY GUIDES marrow varuval; Smokestaks information for all locations.
Burnt Peach Old Fashioneds
london

turning up the dial. And while it

may be named for noodles, youre
here for the pho broth, which is
tended over for 24 hours to build
bold, beefy flavors.

3/HAMBURGER
R OYA LT Y
The maker of my favorite burger in
London, Bleecker, operates two
spots: a grab-and-go hatch in Old
Spitalfields Market and a diner
thats a pounds throw away from
Buckingham Palacenot bad for
a crew that started with a truck.
The team doesnt settle when it
comes to its beef, working with
local butchers to ensure the meat
is rare-breed and pasture-fed
from farms around the UK. Its all
dry-aged, with each patty formed
from a four-ounce ball thats
hand-pressed. If you order
anything less than a double,
youre not really doing it right.

When it comes to working 1RADICAL

my London office job, Ive got NORTH AFRICAN
one rule: balance every one of Not only does the The Barbary
those spreadsheets with a juicy not have tableclothsit has no
burger, spicy taco, or freshly tables, period. You slide onto one
fried doughnut. Had I grown of 24 counter stools for a menu
up in this city ten years ago, inspired by what was once the
Barbary Coast of Spain and
I might have spent my workdays
North Africa, brimming with spicy
dreaming of opulent prime rib options like pata negra neck,
or a 20-quid cocktail. But these chargrilled Ibrico pork with date
days, my pals and I (and those syrup, lemon, and a sprinkle of
folks who follow along on the ras-el-hanout. The open kitchen
gram at @ks_ate_here) would full of loudmouth chefs in the
center of the restaurantmakes
rather share cheaper, smaller,
any night here feel like a party.
messier dishes, whether its
Sri Lankan crepes one night Som Saa s 4RICE WORTH
2SLICK VIETNAMESE
or Italian cacio e pepe the next. much beloved
nahm dtok WAITING FOR
And thanks to the chefs who Salvation in Noodles has amped
up this citys love affair with pla thort, With a line out the door and
came up through the street- a whole fried
Vietnamese by taking everything sea bass influences ranging from across
food/pop-up scene, theres that got Londoners addicted Asia and Europe, chefs Zijun
beneath Thai
always a new spot to try. These (grilled lamb chops, garlic-and- chiles and Meng and Ana Gonalves of
are ten Ill gladly return to. fish-sauce-lacquered wings) and fresh herbs Tt Eatery elevate rice bowls to
an art form, whether the grains
are steamed perfectly al dente
and finished with leek oil and
a touch of soy, or cooked down
Borough Market Brick Lane Street Feast Dinerama into an absurdly smooth congee.
Sh if t in g The most famous of all, An OG staple that has Londons honorary
5 H I G H LY
M arke ts it built its reputation anything you could want. snacking HQ, where the
as a wholesaler before Secondhand bike? Got it. flavors are loudand so GRAMMABLE THAI
Before these casual pivoting to vendors. Totally delicious lunch? is the indie rock. Dont
joints became hot Dont Miss: Londons Sure! Dont Miss: Tea- Miss: Odd-but-tasty crab The pros at Som Saa opened its
restaurants, many were best doughnuts at Bread brined chicken tenders at fries from Prawnography. permanent restaurant last year;
stalls. Go here to Ahead. The Crowd: Mother Clucker. The The Crowd: Kids who the spacious exposed-brick East
find the next wave: Tourists, historians. Crowd: Hip, hungover. communicate in emoji. London room retains the charm
of its warehouse digs. On any

M A Y 2 0 17 9 9
 k
CITY GUIDES
london

The
B r i t i sh
Tac os
Are
C omi n g

What started out

given night, international crowds
fill this spot to taste dishes loaded
with classic Thai flavors; kaffir lime
leaves, chiles, and fish sauce for
all! And the nahm dtok pla thort
deep-fried sea bass with rice
powder and Isaan herbsmight
as well be a social media star.
6BRITISH, UHBBQ
Before Smokestak found its
permanent Shoreditch home, it
was hilarious to see these guys
serving melt-like-butter beef
brisket and succulent pork ribs
from a four-and-a-half-ton,
22-foot-long Texas-made smoker
they carted all around town. The
old-fashioneds are American too,
though I opt for British craft beer
like the nutty Kernel Pale Ale.
7LAIDBACK INDIAN
Indian food needs no introduction
in Britainits ingrained in
this countrys history and culture.
as a ripple in 2007
with Wahaca has
now blown into a
full-on movement in
London (you know,
some thousands of
miles from Mexico)
A counter for sandwiches at Chick n Sours; with the arrivals of
a spread of pan- Asian snacks from Tt Eater y Temper, El Pastr,
Bad Sports,
Kricket turns it up by incorporating I head here when Ive gotta and Corzon in
2016 alone. But the
local ingredients. The bhel puri have noodles; specifically, pici
reigning king is
served with raw mango, tamarind, cacio e pepe, a dense pasta with
Breddos, which first
and British yogurt is a smooth, Tuscan roots in a rich sauce of came to life as a
sweet complement to my go-to Parmesan cheese, showered with shack in a Hackney
dish, the butter-garlic crab. tons of freshly cracked pepper. car park. Now
a legitimate
8MODERN 10 F R I E D C H I C K E N restaurant, it relies
SRI LANKAN FTW! on English produce
to build flavorful
Diners inside Hoppers jewel Theres a fried chicken renaissance bites influenced by
box of a dining roomits walls underway here in London, but the roadside
covered with Tamil maskshave Chick n Sours has beaten out the taquerias that the
been shoulder to shoulder since competition with its super-crispy cooks encountered
it opened in 2015. The namesake poultry. A former DJ turned chef during trips they
traditional dish, a Hopper, co-owns the establishment, made throughout
is a fermented-rice-and-coconut so count on it being a fun place Americas West
savory pancake bowl filled to hang. Youre here for The Bun, Coast and Mexico.
with curry that its meant to scoop a Korean fried chicken sando Theres cochinita
up. Its as over-the-top tasty with gochujang mayo, pibil made from
as it sounds. chili vinegar, and crunchy slaw. pigs head, and a
signature fried Baja
fish tacowhich,
9 S I M P L E PA S T A when you think
The daily swell to about it, isnt much
Padella spans two floors inside
get a seat for some different from
Borough Market, though the Padella noodles;
marbled counter upstairs is chiller pata negra pork neck Englands own fish
than the wood-hewn basement. at The Barbar y and chips.

BA IS GOING
A B R OA D !
Were pulling out
the passport for our
digital City Guides.
Starting in April,
visit bonappetit.com
/cityguides for editors
definitive listings on
where to eat, drink,
and more in London,
Paris, and Mexico
Cit y. Then stay tuned
all year for new
guides, videos, and
cit y travel tips.

1 0 0 M A Y 2 0 17
B
A
C
K

O
F

H
O
U
S
E

For our
beleaguered
columnist, the
painstaking
process of writing
a cookbook
involves staring
at his Notes
app, furiously
drinking,
and just hoping
for the best.

how not to write a cookbook

A desperate dispatch from Superiority Burgers
Brooks Headley, a chef attempting to
file his (way overdue) second manuscript

I A M I N T H E D E A T H T H R O E S o f f i n ish i ng t he
Superiority Burger cookbook, which is six agonizing
months past its deadline. Ive been writing the thing
in spasms on my phone every other night at a bar
on First Avenue in NYC during the time it takes to
decompress after service and rapidly nurse two
drinks, continuing the burst as I walk to the train
and then through the ride home, but passing out
right before any really good ideas get polished. How
do you work 14 hours a day in a kitchen and also
find the creative energy to write about those hours?
You dont. Except for those dribbles. And when,
exactly, am I supposed to cobble those dribbles
into a functioning manuscript?

1 0 2 M A Y 2 0 17 C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 10 6
B AC K O F H O U S E
I have 18 recipe headnotes left to finish
(the intros are the fun part!) and 14 reci-
pes left to fine-tune (what a draguntil
each is done, and then, what a colossal
sense of relief). Im usually so good with
deadlines. Running a restaurant is about
bopping 300 of them on the nose all day
long. So, six months past due, thats not
that bad, is it? Ugh. At the rate Im slog-
ging through it, its looking like this doc-
ument of everything we have cooked
here at Superiority Burger (so far) should
come out in the spring of 2018. Why does
that date feel very far away and yet hur-
tling toward me at the orbital speed of an
asteroid that wipes out all civilization?
Why am I even writing this cookbook?
Will it be any good? Will it serve a pur-
pose? Will my procrastination mean that
Ill get upstaged by another ambitious
vegetarian title before this even makes it
to the marketplace? Is it too early in the
existence of my goofy little restaurant to
even write a cookbook? I have so many
questions and doubts.
Cookbooks are weird. Sure, theyre
books. But writing one doesnt necessar-
ily make you a writeror even a cook, for
that matter. Ive been feigning aptitude
at both for a while now; I just havent
been found out yet.
When I read cookbooks, I want to be
inspired by the recipes. I want that covet-
ous Well, why didnt I think of that? feel-
ing. I want to learn cool new techniques
and look at glossy, drippy pictures of
food. But mostly I want to steal from
them, unchecked and unregulated. A
good gauge is this: If Im flipping through
one on a new-release table at a book-
shop, how badly do I want to whip out my
phone and take clandestine photos of
recipes that will be too blurry to read
once Im back in the kitchen? Now, hold
on, calm down. This is how it works: The
more photos I snap, the more excited
about the book I get, and the more likely
I am to go ahead and buy it. Usually by
two pics, Ive got the cookbook tucked
under my arm and have already relin-
quished my debit card to the cashier.
That reminds me: I want to talk about
money. Say Im chatting with some folks
about books. You know, what are you
reading right now, what are you reread-
ing (The Bell Jar, The Fountainhead,
Carsick), that kind of thing. Inevitably
someone will say, Oh, you put out that
cookbook Fancy Desserts a few years
ago. Did you make any money on it?
1 0 6 M A Y 2 0 17
When it comes to cashing in on cook-
books, oh boy, brace yourself for a doozy.
I assume some cookbook writers pay
their rent penning books about food;
I just dont know any of them. But in the
beginning of the process, it seems plau-
sible: Imagine someone saying, in the
most dramatic voice possible, WE ARE
GOING TO GIVE YOU $50,000 TO WRITE
A COOKBOOK. Whoa.
The cookbook advance is a MacGuffin
of Scrooge McDuck aquatics. Fifty thou-
sand sounds like a lot of money, right?
Like, more money than your average line
cook has ever seen. But then you take into
consideration that $20K goes to the (very
deserving and totally professional) pho-
tographer, $12K to the designer (also no
beef here), and as the checks trickle in,
your agent gets 15 percent off the top of
each driblet. And yeah, you didnt take
into consideration the taxes? Oh no. I
dont want to do the math here.
But its just money. And getting to hold
in your hands a two-pound, 287-page
manual of recipes with a foxy dust jacket
is a rush the likes of which drugs got
nothin on. Plus theres always the whole
potentially-getting-your-name-in-the-
Library-of-Congress part, which, given
the current state of governmental things,
well, lets just hope that libraries arent
illegal by 2018. Cross your fingers.
And yet sometimes cookbooks come
out and their unnecessariness is so baf-
fling and tree-wasting. That high-end-
restaurant book with the impossible-to-
source ingredients and the soft-focus
photography on those porous pottery
plates? I cant help but question whether
that is a vital addition to the canon or just
a marketing ploy taken to a shrink-
wrapped extreme. Is yet another joyless
regional American cookbook from yet
another famous puffy chef really needed?
A breezy flip through one of these at my
local shop, and I dont even have a glim-
mer of desire to reach into my pocket and
thieve digitally.
Heres what I want to know: When is
that legendary pizza maker in Phoenix
putting out a cookbook? [Editors note:
Chris Biancos first book comes out in
July.] I am dying to rip pages out of that
one. Also, can we get a book deal for the
very sharp chocolatier at Confectionery,
a few storefronts east of Superiority
Burger, who crafts the most lusciously
textured vegan ganache? Now, thatll be
a cookbook worthy of a solid yentzing.
MY FIVE FAVORITE
COOKBOOKS
TO STEAL FROM
EAT ME
by Kenny Shopsin
Kenny Shopsin is a philosopher,
a poet, and a national
culinary treasure who could only
be of and for New York City.
His daughter and son-in-law,
Tamara Shopsin and Jason
Fulford, designed this masterpiece.
A true work of art.
CHOCOLATE DESSERTS
BY P I E R R E H E R M
by Dorie Greenspan
While living in Los Angeles
in the mid-aughts, I had a kitchen
job at a nightclub that didnt
need any food to be prepared.
So I taught myself Herms
classic macaron technique with
Greenspans easy-to-understand
prose leading the charge.
And I ate all the cookies.
THE LAST COURSE
by Claudia Fleming
The greatest dessert book in the
history of the world. I bought
this the day it came out and stole
from it relentlessly for many years.
Sadly, insanely, outrageously,
inexplicably, its now out of print.
S A LT I E
by Caroline Fidanza
The highest concentration
of subtle headnote zingers and
doable recipes of any cookbook
released in the past ten years.
BEST OF BLOODROOT
by Selma Miriam
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU
and Noel Furie
A feminist vegetarian restaurant
in Bridgeport, CT? And the place
has been open 40 years? And the
book is self-published? And you
think I havent mined this one for
ideas? Really? Come on now.
 BON APPTIT

THE

ISSUE
2017
OAXACA THE SOUTHWEST TAINAN TOFINO SEOUL

111
OAXACA

THE ART WORLD

H A S M E X I C O C I T Y.
T H E FA S H I O N C R O W D
TA K E S T U L U M .
AND FOR TRUE FOOD
LOVERS? OAXACA
IS THE ESSENTIAL
MEXICO PILGRIMAGE:
A LEGENDARY
D E S T I N AT I O N F O R
D E E P F L AV O R E D
MOLES, BROTHY
POSOLES, AND MORE

by Alison Roman
photographs by Peden + Munk
 113
TIME

8
11
P.
,
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O
18
, P. 1 N
LSA A
SA IT
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RI

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O
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CH

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R

I
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JA

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IT

AS
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TO
ME
ME
 HE SECOND I STEPPED OFF hold the two sides together, plus a few perky squash blossoms,
the small commuter plane in which are used in Oaxaca as commonly as parsley is in the U.S.
Oaxaca City and onto the pre- Another day I paid a visit to three exquisitely dressed women
cariously perched stairs, I posted up on a corner outside Santo Domingo Church in one of
smelled smoke. Not exhaust: It the citys main squares. I ordered two memelas, crouched down
was more of a hearty, woodsy on a milk crate (my favorite way to eat), and watched as one of
smoke. I thought to myself, the women pressed thick tortillas, slapped them onto the comal,
S o m e o n e n e a r by m u s t b e and started to lightly pinch the edges, as if crimping the crust
roasting hearts of agave over of a pie. After the tortilla was lightly toasted on both sides, she
an open flamethe traditional dipped a spoon into a small vat of barely melted asiento, an
process for making mezcal, the unrefined, highly seasoned (i.e., salty) pork fat, and spread the
high-octane (and highly drinkable) spirit popular in this region. tortilla with just the thinnest layer possible. From there it got a
I was later told it was more likely that the smell was coming from slightly thicker layer of almost soupy black beans, which had a
burning trash. This would be the first of many instances where I faint anisey flavor from having been simmered with fresh avo-
realized I had a lot to learn in Oaxaca. cado leaves. For extra heat, I drizzled mine with a smooth neon-
I am a professional cook and had been to Mexico before. But green salsa made from tomatillos, cilantro, and fresh jalapeos
as I made my way through Oaxaca, it became clear that when and ate it in just a few hungry bites. I was full, and I was in love.
it came to the food down here, Diana Kennedy I was not. I was To get to the source of all this perfection, I took a trip to one
sure that my oozy quesadilla had been made with cheese and of the weekend markets, Tlacolula, about 40 minutes outside
crema. It hadnt; the cheese was just that creamy. I assumed the city center. This place ruined me for all other markets forever.
that the smoky salsas were the product There was garlic bundled with its own stalk.
of charred vegetables. In fact, the flavor Papayas wrapped in newspaper to pre-
came from smoked and dried pasilla vent bruising, stacked lovingly according
chiles. At every restaurant I went to and to size. Citrus sliced open, each piece on
street-food stand I hovered around, I the verge of exploding with its own juices.
asked questions in my broken Spanish, Being at the market overwhelmed me
an d t h e ans we rs we re n eve r w h a t I with the urge not just to eat but to cook.
initially expected. S TAY H E R E Never before had I been so inspired to
At Itanon, a restaurant known for its get back into the kitchen, to play with
What the hotels in
use of heritage corn, the owner, Gabriela Oaxaca lack in cool-kid these ingredients. I knew right then that I
Fernndez Orantes, fed me tortillas that pedigree and resort-y needed to come back to Oaxacato cook.
came in shades of yolky yellow, pure vibes, they make up for in That second trip I returned to Cabuche, a
white, and ashy blackish-blue. I had to honest-to-god tranquility. small spot that looks more like somebodys
know: How did they make them taste so This is a walking town, living room than a restaurant, and asked
sweet and nutty? How much fat did they so stay in Centro to avoid the chef how he got his red posole broth so
needless driving.
use to get that flaky, almost feathery tex- full of chile flavoryet with close to zero
ture? My companions and translators, heat. I paid a visit to Enrique Olveras new-
Jessica Chrastil and Andrea Hagen, were est outpost, Criollo, to find out how it was
extremely helpful in clearing up any con- C A SA OA X AC A possible to make such a distinctive mole,
fusion, but more often than not I ended up A sister property of the all from relatively common ingredients. And
feeling like Bill Murray in that scene from super-popular Casa then I took my smuggled chiles and scrib-
Lost in Translation. Oaxaca Restaurante down bled notes back to my small Brooklyn apart-
Thats all she said? Id ask. the block, this hotel serves ment and tried my hand at re-creating the
Yes. such good meals youll things I had eaten.
want to hole up inside
No lard? Nothing? The food in Oaxaca was deceptively
the bougainvillea-covered
No. Just corn. premises. From $145 simple, leading me to believe that I could
Even familiar foods felt novel. Take, achieve similar results with ingredients
for example, the quesadilla. Theres one procured stateside. Sure, some things
on every restaurant menu in town, but my EL DIABLO Y L A SANDA translated beautifully: the tart, faintly
favorite was at La Biznaga, a colorful Modest, colorful, and smoky hibiscus cocktail and that brothy
open-air restaurant that still cooks most quirky, this affordable posole were dead ringers for the origi-
things on an outdoor comal: a large, flat, hotel has more charm than nals. But without access to truly great corn
circular griddle made from clay. I mean, amenities. The breakfast with complex, sweet flavor or well-salted
is as close to genuine
Ive had tortillas and cheese together Oaxacan cheese that was made yester-
home cooking as youll get
before (its called college), but this one without receiving an invite day, of course everything tasted a little
was so completely different from any Id to someones house. And different. Still great, just different. Funny
eaten that I had to ask how it was made. It the honor bar, stocked enough, thats something Im grateful for.
was griddled low and slow so the outside with small-batch mezcal, If everything could be easily replicated
got perfectly toasted, then filled with just is a nice perk. From $90 at home, why would anyone ever leave
enough stringy, milky Oaxacan cheese to the house?
114
 119
, P.
C HE
BU
CA
AT
K
R
PO
H
IT
W
LE
SO
PO
D
RE
 MARKET
SW E E P

Oaxacan culture is
centered around the
markets, most of which Tortillas,
are 30 to 45 minutes memelas, and
outside of town (but tetelas on
definitely worth the trip the comal at
Criollo
and the cheap cab fare).
Youll find fruits and
vegetables, salted
and smoked fish from the
coast, mezcal sold out
of gasoline jugs, and, of
course, snacks like
chapulines (grasshoppers),
which, yes, are delicious.
If its Sunday, take a trip
to Tlacolula Market.
There, youll see women
selling deep-purple
heirloom beans, street food
(tlayudas, memelas),
and Oaxacan-style
chocolate. The Mercado
de 20 Noviembre is
a must-visit for its smoky
meat hall, a narrow
corridor lined with stalls
selling thin sheets of beef
and pork waiting to be
grilled on the hottest coals
youve ever seen. The place
is touristy, but the crowds
are there for good reason.

11 6
 C R I O L LO S M EZC A L C O C KTA I L
W I T H H I B I S C U S P. 118

Q U E SA D I L L A S W I T H S Q U A S H
B LO S S O M S AT L A B I Z N AGA P. 119

M O L E C O LO R A D I TO
AT C R I O L LO P. 119
The Tostada That
Wants to Be a Memela
I N S P I R E D BY I TA N O N
6 8 S E RV I N G S
Memelas are ubiquitous
in Oaxaca, where theyre made with fresh
masa dough. Since finding similar masa
in the U.S. is hit or miss, we call for fresh
corn tortillas, which technically makes this
a tostada, hence the cheeky recipe name.
B L AC K B E A N S A N D ASS E M B LY
1 lb. dried black beans
1 white onion, peeled, halved
1 head of garlic, cloves
separated, smashed
4 sprigs epazote or oregano
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt
2 dried avocado leaves (optional)
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
8 white corn tortillas
3 Tbsp. rendered pork fat,
bacon grease, or lard
3 oz. queso fresco, crumbled,
plus more for serving if desired
Toasted Chile de rbol and
Tomatillo Salsa (see recipe),
or store-bought salsa
R A JAS VA R I AT I O N
4 poblano chiles
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
white onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
tsp. dried oregano
C H O R I ZO VA R I AT I O N
4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
2 links fresh chorizo (about 8 oz.),
casings removed
Kosher salt
4 large eggs
B L AC K B E A N S A N D ASS E M B LY Place
beans, onion, garlic, epazote, and bay
leaf in a large pot. Pour in water to
cover by 3" and bring to a simmer; cook,
uncovered, until beans are very tender,
22 hours.
Drain beans, reserving cooking
liquid. Pluck out epazote and bay leaf
and transfer beans to a large bowl.
Using a potato masher, crush beans,
adding cup of the cooking liquid a
few tablespoons at a time, until a coarse
texture forms. There should still be some
bits of beans visible. Season with salt.
If using avocado leaves, grind in a mortar
and pestle or spice mill; mix into beans.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-
high. Add beans (be careful as oil
11 8
may bubble and spit at you) and fry,
undisturbed, 2 minutes. Stir and fry for
another 2 minutes. Repeat process two
more times, scraping up any browned
bits. Taste and season with more salt if
needed. Remove beans from heat.
Toast a tortilla in a nonstick skillet over
medium heat until golden brown in spots
but not crunchy, about 2 minutes. Turn;
toast on other side, another minute or so.
Spread a thin layer of fat over one side
of tortilla (about 1 tsp.). Spread 2 Tbsp.
bean mixture over; sprinkle with one-
quarter of 3 oz. queso fresco. Cook until
edges of tortilla curl up a bit and beans
are warmed through, about 2 minutes.
Repeat process with 7 more tortillas.
Top tortillas with rajas or chorizo
and eggs and more queso fresco if
desired. Serve with salsa.
R A JAS VA R I AT I O N Roast poblanos over
an open flame, rotating occasionally,
until charred and blistered all over, 1012
minutes. (Or broil on a rimmed baking
sheet 810 minutes). Remove stems, skins,
and seeds. Slice flesh into " strips.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium.
Add onion and garlic and season with
salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
onion is translucent and softened, 1012
minutes. Mix in chiles and oregano; taste
and season with more salt. Continue to
cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors
meld and vegetables are very soft, 58
minutes. Keep warm until ready to serve.
C H O R I ZO VA R I AT I O N Heat 2 Tbsp. oil
in a medium skillet, preferably cast iron,
over medium-high. Cook chorizo, using
a spoon or heatproof spatula to break
up any large pieces, until cooked through
and starting to brown, 58 minutes.
Transfer to a small bowl.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium
nonstick skillet over medium-high. Sprinkle
some salt onto the skillet. Crack eggs onto
salt and immediately break yolks. Cook
until underside is starting to brown, about
1 minute. Turn eggs and cook another
30 seconds (yolk wont be entirely runny
but shouldnt be cooked through, either).
Toasted Chile de rbol
and Tomatillo Salsa
I N S P I R E D BY I TA N O N
M A K E S A B O U T 2 C U P S For a salsa
that wont send smoke shooting from your
ears, be thorough about removing the
seeds from the chiles, and even scraping
out the ribs, the hottest part.
10 dried chiles de rbol, seeds
and ribs removed
3 medium tomatillos, husks
removed, rinsed
3 garlic cloves, smashed
Kosher salt
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
Toast chiles in a medium skillet over
medium heat, turning often, until starting
to brown lightly in spots (dont char),
about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
Place chiles, tomatillos, garlic, and 2
cups water in a medium saucepan and
season with salt. Cover, bring to a simmer,
and cook until tomatillos turn olive green
and burst, 58 minutes. Remove from heat
and let sit (still covered) 5 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer chiles,
tomatillos, and garlic to a blender or
food processor; add cup cooking liquid
from saucepan and pure until smooth.
Add lime juice and season with salt.
Let cool before serving.
D O A H E A D : Salsa can be made 3 days
ahead. Cover and chill.
Mezcal Cocktail with
Hibiscus and Cilantro
I N S P I R E D BY C R I O L LO
6 S E RV I N G SYou can find loose hibiscus
flowers at Mexican and Indian grocers,
but if not, use 6 hibiscus tea bags instead.
cup dried hibiscus flowers
cup sugar
3 cups cilantro leaves with
tender stems, divided
cup mezcal
cup fresh lime juice
Cilantro flowers or sprigs
(for serving)
Bring 3 cups water to a simmer in a
medium saucepan. Remove from heat and
add hibiscus; let steep 10 minutes. Strain
hibiscus tea into a medium bowl; let cool.
Bring 1 cup water to a simmer in
a small saucepan. Add sugar and cook,
stirring, until dissolved. Remove from heat;
add 2 cups cilantro. Let steep 20 minutes.
Strain syrup into a small bowl; let cool.
To make cocktail, muddle remaining
1 cup cilantro in a large pitcher.
Add mezcal, lime juice, hibiscus tea,
and 1 cups cilantro syrup and stir
to combine. Taste and add more syrup
if desired, keeping in mind that the
flavor will be diluted once you add ice.
Divide cocktail among ice-filled
glasses. Garnish with cilantro flowers.
 Red Posole with Pork
I N S P I R E D BY C A B U C H E
6 SERVINGS If youve never made posole,
this is a good starter recipe. There are
no hard-to-get cuts (like the pigs head
called for in many traditional versions),
and most of the process is hands-off.
3 lb. pork shoulder (Boston butt)
1 large white onion, halved through
root end, plus chopped for serving
2 heads of garlic, halved crosswise
1 bay leaf
3 whole cloves
10 guajillo chiles, ribs and
seeds removed
6 dried chiles de rbol, ribs
and seeds removed
Kosher salt
3 15-oz. cans white hominy, rinsed
Thinly sliced cabbage, thinly sliced
radishes, dried oregano, and
lime wedges (for serving)
Place pork shoulder, onion halves,
garlic, bay leaf, and cloves in a large pot.
Pour in 14 cups water (pork should be
submerged). Bring to a simmer and cook,
skimming as needed and turning pork
occasionally, until meat is cooked through
and tender but not yet falling apart,
23 hours. Transfer pork to a plate;
let cool slightly. Strain broth into a
large bowl, then transfer back to pot.
Slice pork into " slices and add to broth.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350.
Toast all the chiles on a rimmed baking
sheet until brown (do not char) and starting
to lightly puff in places, about 5 minutes.
Bring 3 cups water to a boil in a medium
saucepan; add chiles. Remove from heat
and let chiles soak until softened, 1012
minutes. Blend chiles and cooking liquid
in a blender until smooth; season with salt.
Add chile pure to pork and broth.
Bring to a simmer, add hominy, and cook,
skimming off fat from surface, until pork
is so tender its nearly falling apart,
4560 minutes; season with more salt.
Divide posole among bowls, top
with onion, cabbage, radishes, and
oregano. Serve with lime wedges.
D O A H E A D : Posole can be made
3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROMAN
Mole Coloradito
I N S P I R E D BY C R I O L LO
M A K E S A B O U T 6 C U P S Oaxaca is known
for its moles, and there are countless
types. This one features dried red chiles
and is often served with poultry.
4 plum tomatoes, hulled
3 tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed
large white onion, halved
1 head of garlic
8 ancho chiles, ribs and
seeds removed
6 guajillo chiles, ribs and
seeds removed
cup raisins
cup sesame seeds
Ceylon cinnamon stick or
tsp. ground cinnamon
2 allspice berries
2 whole cloves
1 tsp. cumin seeds
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
Kosher salt
2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 Tbsp. breadcrumbs
1 Tbsp. grated piloncillo
(unrefined whole cane sugar)
or dark brown sugar
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill
Place racks in upper and lower thirds of
oven; preheat to 450. Roast tomatoes,
tomatillos, onion, and garlic on a rimmed
baking sheet on upper rack until softened
and browned in spots (vegetables should
still hold their shape), 2535 minutes.
Let cool slightly. Cut the top off the garlic,
exposing the cloves inside. Squeeze
out roasted garlic cloves into a blender.
Transfer remaining vegetables to blender
and pure until smooth. Scrape into
a medium bowl.
While the vegetables are roasting,
toast ancho and guajillo chiles on a clean
rimmed baking sheet on lower rack until
guajillo chiles are slightly darker in spots,
about 4 minutes. Let cool slightly, then
transfer to a large bowl. Add raisins and
4 cups boiling water, cover with plastic
wrap, and let sit 30 minutes.
Transfer chile mixture to blender
(you dont need to clean it); blend until
thick and smooth.
As soon as chiles are out of the oven,
toast sesame seeds on another rimmed
baking sheet on lower rack until golden
brown, about 3 minutes. Let cool. Grind
in spice mill, shaking occasionally, to
a powder. Be careful not to overgrind
or you will make sesame paste. Transfer
to a small bowl.
Very finely grind cinnamon, allspice,
cloves, and cumin seeds in spice mill.
Heat oil in a large pot over medium-
high and cook spice mixture, stirring,
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add
vegetable pure and cook, stirring
occasionally, until mixture thickens slightly,
57 minutes. Add chile pure and broth,
season with salt, and simmer, uncovered,
stirring occasionally, until mole is
thickened to the consistency of heavy
cream, 6075 minutes.
Add sesame powder, chocolate,
breadcrumbs, and piloncillo to mole
and whisk until chocolate is melted and
sesame seeds are incorporated. Continue
cooking, whisking often to prevent mole
from sticking to the bottom of the pot,
until very thick and the consistency
of marinara sauce, 3035 minutes. Taste
mole and season with salt as needed.
Quesadillas with Oaxacan
Cheese and Squash Blossoms
I N S P I R E D BY L A B I Z N AGA
M A K E S 4 Some of the things that
make this quesadilla special are hard to
re-create, most notably the fresh corn
tortillas themselves. Seek out a tortilleria
if possible; it makes a difference.
2 Tbsp. olive oil
white onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
4 corn tortillas
2 oz. Oaxacan cheese or
fresh mozzarella, grated
(about cup)
8 squash blossoms, stems
and stamens removed
Heat oil in a large skillet, preferably
cast iron, over medium. Cook onion and
garlic, stirring occasionally, until very
soft and golden, 1012 minutes; season
with salt. Transfer to a small bowl and
wipe skillet clean.
Toast a tortilla in the same skillet over
medium-high until golden brown but not
crunchy on one side, about 1 minute.
Turn tortilla over and scatter one-quarter
of cheese over one half of toasted side.
Arrange 2 squash blossoms and one-
quarter of onion mixture on top of cheese
and fold tortilla in half to create a half-
moon. Press down on it lightly to help
tortilla adhere. Continue cooking, turning
once or twice and pressing occasionally,
until cheese is melted and tortilla begins
to brown and crisp in spots (turn down
the heat if needed), about 3 minutes.
Transfer quesadilla to a plate. Repeat
with remaining tortillas, cheese, squash
blossoms, and onion mixture to make
3 more quesadillas.
11 9
ALONG FOR THE RIDE
W I T H S OM E G R E AT M E A LS
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT):
P I Z Z A F O U N DAT I O N S P I E ;
LAUNDERETTES LABNEH;
JUNES APPETIZING BOARD
AND SNAPPER CARPACCIO

O O
O O
R O
 I P !
T R
A D
O

A S P I C Y, G R E A S Y, C H E E S Y, B O O Z Y
SOUTHWEST DESERT TOUR
by Jay Carroll photographs by Wes Frazer

121

THE AMERICAN
S O U T H W E S T may look like
a massive desert, but its hardly
desolate. Nowhere else in the
country can you find such an
inspiring constellation of cool
cities so perfectly spaced from
one another. Thats what makes
it ideal for the ultimate food-
driven road trip. Do like I do
and fly into Santa Fe, rent a car
(convertible optional!), and
prepare yourself for a nomadic
compound of yurts and all that
chile pepper and BBQ sauce on
the horizon. As you amble your
way through Texas, enjoy the
endless stretch of sun-bleached
highways dotted with actual
tumbling tumbleweeds. Youll
pass through cities like
Albuquerque and Marfa that
have tons to seeJapanese
spas, Airstream hotels, ceramics
stores, and so onbefore
settling in Austin a week or so
later. Along the way youll try
the nations top burritos,
tamales, barbecue, and tequila
drinks. Then, who knows, you
may decide that youre never
going home.
1 5
FUEL UP
I N SA N TA F E
At Modern General, prepare for
the road ahead with pho-sole,
a fortifying breakfast soup blending
Vietnamese-spiced broth with
a poached egg and hominy. (And
dont miss the design goods for
sale, either.) Though if you want to
know what new New Mexican
food is truly all about, Id suggest
Bang Bite Filling Station, a few
blocks from the train depot. This
food truck serves green chile mac
and cheese, pulled pork Cubanito
sandwiches, and the all-important
Bite Burger, a five-ouncer topped
with a roasted five-chile spread
that transforms this humble sandwich
into the states supreme burger.
LAUNDERETTES COOPERS
RABBIT TERRINE MEAT
M A N ,
BIG DADDY
4
T H E B E E R D E TO U R
TAMALES FOR ALL! Most people stop in El Paso
on the seven-hour journey
between Albuquerque and
Marfa, but true pros go
through nearby Las Cruces
instead. That way you
can grab a growler of crisp
Bohemian Pilsner from
High Desert Brewing Co.
and veer northeast to the
White Sands National
Monument. Pop open that
Pils and commence your
vision quest (with your
2 designated driver and/
or shaman, of course).
N E W M E X I C O S N E W WA R E S
Who wouldnt want a fresh vacation look? Santa Fes Shiprock
pairs turquoise jewelry with Japanese threads and 100-year-
old Navajo blankets that would be rad on your back seat. If
youre feeling those vibes, head to Ten Thousand Waves and
Izanami, where I go for an afternoon soak and stay for sake. F R I D AY N I G H T
Book a private hour in an outdoor cedar tub, then drip-dry L I G H TS
at the on-site izakaya as you sear Wagyu beef over hot stones.
Is it a campfire on the horizon?
Extraterrestrial activity? Headlights?
3
The Marfa mystery lights
have baffled locals, travelers,
and scientists since the late 1800s,
and theyve yet to be properly
W E R E G O I N G TO A L B U Q U E R Q U E ! explained. The strange pulsating
orbs, best seen at dusk, now have
I usually take Route 14 down to New Mexicos biggest their very own viewing pavilion
city, almost two hours south of Santa Fe. First stop: a few miles east of town. Grab
El Modelo, an 88-year-old tamale factory where the a couple of friends and a sixer of
only rule is, basically, overdo it. I get the husk- Big Bend Brewing Co.s Tejas
wrapped pork and some spicy chorizo tostados. Hey, Lager, then sit down and enjoy the
it aint a road trip without a little heartburn! You can show. Just like the good ol boys I
sleep it off at Los Poblanos, a historic inn on 25 acres ran into last time I was there, one of
thats as pretty as a postcard. Its an actual working whom quipped in a McConaughey-
farmthe restaurant makes daily sopes from its gardens style Texas drawl: Those lights
vegetables, and the apothecary stocks signature soaps are just like my ex-wifenow you
and lotions scented with lavender from the fields. see em, now you dont.
 EL COSMICOS TEPEES
LAUNDERETTES
DAILY CRUDO
6
DINNER AND A
(SALOON) SHOW
Stellina is the newish
no-reservations wine bar in
town from Krista Steinhauer,
who started Food Shark, a
famous Marfa lunch truck. Eat at
the horseshoe bar so you can
chat with locals while tucking
into Mediterranean small plates
like grilled branzino with
summer squash and salsa verde.
Perhaps theyll join you at
Lost Horse Saloon, where folks
play pool to country bands
crooning from the six-inch
stage. Try my favorite cocktail,
Ranch Water, a blend of
tequila, Topo Chico mineral
water, and lime. After last call,
rest your nomadic head in a
nomadic bed: Yurts, tepees,
and travel trailers line
El Cosmicos 21-acre compound.
7
A L A I D B AC K 8
10
M A R FA L U N C H O N E S TO P
One thing youll learn about SOUVENIR
visiting Marfa is that you should SHOP
plan ahead. Its not unusual that the
restaurants book up on weekends Dont leave town IT AINT TEXAS
as people bounce between the without hitting WITHOUT A BBQ
Mano Mercantile,
Prada Marfa and the Donald Judd
a beautifully P I LG R I M AG E
Foundation. Other cafs close
without notice during slower minimal concept The drive to Austin is about six
periodsmodern art aside, this shop selling hours, so youre going to need
town runs on desert time. If youre artwork,incense a pit stop somewhere. When it
in need of a quick fix, Pizza burners, and other comes to Hill Country barbecue,
Foundation serves superlative thin- gifts your pals Coopers Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que
crust; my favorite has ricotta, fresh back home will in Llano is the blue ribbon
jalapeos, and farm tomatoes. want to steal favorite. Choose from a smoker
Around the corner, Marfa Burrito from one another. full of beef ribs, brisket, sirloin,
puts out authentic Mexican fare. pork chops, and more, then
The owner, Ramona Tejada, cooks settle in with your tray and
everything from scratch in her own a bottle of Shiner Bock. Dont
home kitchen, including the pass up the free beans, pickles,
expertly charred flour tortillas. This and sauces lining the walls.
gringo goes for the Carne, which
is bursting with picadillo-style beef.
11
BROKEN SPOKES
HOUSE BAND A + AT X
Welcome to Austin! You cant go
wrong here, especially if you
spend a few days at Liz Lamberts
Hotel Saint Cecilia (doubles from
$475), perhaps the countrys most
far-out inn. (If you cant get in,
Bunkhouses Hotel San Jos and
Austin Motel are great too.)
For lunch, head to Launderette for
Rene Ortiz and Laura Sawickis
Middle EasternMed fare on the
outdoor patio. Or turn it up at
Junes with an agave cocktail and
moules frites, then blast some
Waylon Jennings on the Wurlitzer,
the greatest jukebox in town.
12
T W O S T E P YO U R
WAY O N O U T
9
Broken Spoke, four miles from
LIVING THAT COWBOY LIFE the state capitol, is surrounded
by high-rise condos. But as
When visiting the vast swath of far-west Texas just outside soon as you walk through
Marfa, its easy to imagine that those who live and work in this those swingin doors, youll
tough desert environment need equally tough goods. Luckily be transported back to the
for us soft-traveling tourists, Big Bend Saddlery in Alpine days of outlaw countrys finest,
creates leather items that are as handsome as they are durable. line dancing with regulars of
Much of the merchandise this rancher-retailer sellsbe it all ages. Then its back to the
a kangaroo-leather wallet, a dapper portfolio case, or an Cecilia for a smoky paloma at
authentic saddleis made on-site. Farther down the interstate the lobby bar. Take a moment
into Big Bend Country, check out the White Buffalo Bar in to get this journey down in
Marathon, a classic watering hole where the signature your journal before heading
margarita can be made with 45 different artisanal tequilas. back to real life.
12 3
 L O R
N I C O
T E C H

T H A N K S T O J O S H K U A N D T R I G G B R O W N , Y O U C A N T R AV E L H A L F W AY
A R O U N D T H E W O R L D W I T H O U T L E AV I N G Y O U R K I T C H E N . T H E D U O S H A R E
T H E C H I L E S P I K E D , C I L A N T R O L A D E N R E C I P E S T H AT F U E L T H E I R
A D D I C T I V E B R O O K LY N B A S E D TA I WA N E S E R E S TA U R A N T , W I N S O N
photographs by Alex Lau

12 4
 6
12
P.
D
H EA
S
Y
FL
This is a
must-order at
Taiwanese places; our
take gets the balance of
fiery chiles, chives, and
rich pork just right.
Josh Ku

I WA S R A I S E D O N C E R E A L
and Pop-Tarts. This was the mid-
90s on Long Island, New York.
My mother, Leah, brought us up all
by herself, so she didnt always
have time to prepare the traditional
Taiwanese dishes she grew up with,
much less persuade my sisters and
me to eat these unfamiliar foods.
It wasnt until college that I became
obsessed with Taiwanese food.
One afternoon I went to Bei
Gang, an old-school Taiwanese
place in Flushing, and ordered Flys
Head, a funky chive and ground
pork dish. The bites of pungent,
garlicky chives transported me
back to the dishes my dads mom
used to make when I visited her
in Taiwan. I got lost in that memory.
If you eat the food your ancestors
ate, your body just recognizes it
automatically. It was in my genes
to love this food. And I was
instantly hooked.
A few years later, in 2014, my
friend Trigg Brown, a chef from
Virginia, and I started talking
about opening a Taiwanese-
American restaurant in Brooklyn.
I decided to take him to Tainan
one of the oldest towns in Taiwan
to show him the birthplace of this
cuisine. While Taipei is the business
capital of the country, the south
is known for unique dishes that
borrow ingredients from the
nations indigenous people, the
Japanese, Dutch colonizers, and
mainland Chinese, who have all
occupied the island. Id gone there
as a kid to visit family, but this
time eating was the main activity.
Trigg and I explored the food stalls
and restaurants across the city,
deciding which vendor had the
best lu rou fan (rice and pork
belly). That no-frills street food
had more flavor than some of the
best meals Id eaten in the States.
Our trip reinforced the style of
food we wanted for our restaurant,
Win Son. It may not be the same
snacks youd find in Tainan, but
weve stayed true to the essence.
Its an intro that gets Taiwanese
food into peoples minds. Go to
Taiwan. But until you do, visit us
at Win Son or make these recipes.
Even if its not in your blood, I think
youll find something you like.
Josh Ku, as told to Ashley Mason
12 6
Flys Head
4 S E RV I N G S
If you cant find budding
chives, look for long, flat garlic chives at
an Asian market and use those instead.
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 lb. ground pork
1 cup mirin
cup white soy sauce
1 lb. budding chives (about
5 bunches), trimmed, cut
into " pieces
4 garlic cloves, nely grated
4 red Thai chiles, thinly sliced
cup toasted sesame oil
2 Tbsp. dried fermented black beans
Steamed rice (for serving)
Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet
over high. Cook pork, pressing down
to encourage browning and stirring
occasionally, until almost cooked through
but with some remaining pink spots, about
3 minutes. Add mirin and soy sauce and
simmer, frequently pressing down rmly on
pork to break into small pieces, until liquid
is reduced by half and meat looks slightly
glazed, 68 minutes. Add budding chives,
garlic, chiles, sesame oil, and fermented
black beans. Cook, tossing, until chives
are just tender and very fragrant, about
2 minutes. Serve over rice.
Marinated Cucumbers
with Fried Shallots
4 S E RV I N G SLets not have a big fight
about this: The MSG might not be
essential, but just a tiny bit does magical
things to these cukes.
1 lb. medium cucumbers (about 3)
2 garlic cloves, nely grated
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
tsp. Aji-No-Moto umami seasoning
(MSG; optional)
Cilantro leaves with tender stems
and store-bought fried shallots
(for serving)
Peel cucumbers and slice crosswise into
2"-thick pieces. Cut pieces lengthwise
into quarters. Remove seeds; discard.
Place cucumbers in a sieve and toss
with garlic, salt, oil, and seasoning (if
using). Set sieve over a bowl and chill,
tossing occasionally, at least 30 minutes
and up to 4 hours. Taste cucumbers before
serving. They might need a bit more salt
or sesame oil to bring them back to life.
Transfer cucumbers to a plate and
top with cilantro and fried shallots.
Fried Eggplants with
Labneh and Spiced Cashews
4 S E RV I N G S Some of the dishes
served at Win Son hew faithfully to the
Taiwanese classics. Others go off on a
tangent. This is an example of the latter.
2
lb. Japanese eggplants (about 3)
tsp. kosher salt, plus more
cup cashews
tsp. cayenne pepper
tsp. Chinese ve-spice powder
cup sugar
cup black (Chinkiang) vinegar
Vegetable oil (for frying; about
6 cups)
1 cups rice our
1 cup labneh (Lebanese strained
yogurt) or full-fat Greek yogurt
Chopped cilantro (for serving)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A deep-fry
thermometer
Slice eggplants crosswise into 2"-thick
pieces. Cut pieces lengthwise into
quarters. Toss eggplants in a large bowl
with a ve-nger pinch of salt. Let sit
at room temperature 2 hours, or chill
(uncovered) up to 12 hours.
Pulse cashews in a food processor
until you have some bigger bits and some
nely ground sandy bits. Toss in a small
bowl with cayenne, ve-spice powder,
and tsp. salt.
Evenly scatter sugar into a small
saucepan; cook over medium heat, stirring
occasionally with a heatproof rubber
spatula to help it melt evenly, until melted
and light amber. While stirring, gradually
add vinegar; the caramel will sputter and
seize up, but keep stirring until it smooths
back out. Let cool (it will thicken as it cools).
Fit a medium saucepan with
thermometer and pour in oil to come
2" up sides. Heat over medium-high until
thermometer registers 350.
While oil is heating, drain eggplants
and pat dry. Dredge in rice our in a
large bowl, shaking off excess.
Working in 2 batches, fry eggplants,
turning occasionally and adjusting heat
as needed to maintain temperature, until
cooked through, about 3 minutes per
batch. Transfer to paper towels to let drain;
season lightly with salt while still hot.
Spread some labneh on each plate
and divide eggplants over top. Drizzle
with black vinegar caramel, spiced
cashews, and cilantro.
D O A H E A D : Caramel can be made
3 days ahead. Store airtight at room
temperature.
 Think of
these garlic cukes
as the new potato
chip: Theyre salty,
super easy to snack
on, and go with
everything.

MA TS
RIN LLO
AT E
D CU SHA
CUMBERS WITH FRIED
 ED CASHEWS
AND SPIC P . 12
NEH 6
LAB
W ITH
TS
L AN
GP
EG
E D
F RI

We
ate a lot of
simple steamed
eggplant in Tainan.
Trigg wanted to fry it
so itd be crispy with
a soft, custardy
inside.

TA I WA N S S I X T H O U SA N D SHENG LI D U H S I AO Y U E H
BEEF SOUP B R E A K FA S T This is the ultimate
C U L I N A RY C A P I TA L
Line up for Locals start the day spot to slurp danzai
Travelers flock to Taipei, but breakfast to grab a with layered egg noodles: brothy
Tainan, a short flight from Hong Kong, fragrant bowl of crepes and steamy vermicelli with
is home to the best street food. Brown beef soup poached vats of soy milk at minced pork and
and Ku share their top spots. to order. this tiny caf. a single shrimp.
 P . 13 2
FA N
ROU
LU

Usually
this dish is rice
with a little braised
pork, but we like a
larger portion, with
chile vinaigrette to
cut through the
fattiness.

JIN DE 3Q CHICKEN
SPRING ROLLS The chains iconic
Fill up the soft, lacy fried chicken cutlet is
rice wrapper with bigger than your
cabbage, shrimp, face (really, its
mushrooms, and huge) and its
scrambled eggs. incredibly crispy.
 Food stalls
in Taiwan serve
these for breakfast.
We treat them as a
bar snack with a tall
boy of Taiwanese
beer.
SC
AL
LIO
N
PA
NC
AK
ES
W
IT
H
BL
AC
K
VI
N
EG
A
R
D

PP
I

IN
G
SA
U
CE
P.
13
3

Our menu is
full of pork, so
Trigg changed things
up by adding lambits
grassy flavor goes
well with the
fresh herbs.
2
13
P.

O
TR
N
LA
CI
LA N D
MB SA
NO BLE
ODL
ES WITH EG E TA
CRUNCHY V
 33
P. 1
A M
RE
EC
IC
H
IT
W
LE
TT
RI
TB
D SPICY PEANU
LTE
SA

This brittle
is a take on a
candy that youll
find in many shops.
The black vinegar in
ours counters the
sweetness.
Lu Rou Fan
4 6 S E RV I N G S
If you have time, chill the
pork belly uncovered for a few hours,
which will dry out the meat a bit and
make it easier to slice.
1 lb. pork belly, skin removed,
patted dry
3 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 Tbsp. raw sugar
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
(about 2 cups), plus more for
serving
3 garlic cloves, nely chopped
cup Shoaxing wine (Chinese rice
wine) or dry sherry
1 oz. ground bean sauce
cup light soy sauce
4 star anise pods
2 3" cinnamon sticks
Steamed rice (for serving)
4 jammy soft-boiled eggs, halved
Chili oil (for serving)
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Slice
pork belly lengthwise into "-thick strips,
then slice strips crosswise into "-thick
pieces (or as thin as you can manage).
Add pork belly to boiling water and
lower heat to maintain a simmer. Cook,
skimming any foam that rises to surface,
until water is cloudy, about 5 minutes;
drain. Set pork belly aside.
Soak mushrooms in 3 cups hot water
in a small bowl until mushrooms are
soft and water is cool, 2025 minutes.
Remove mushrooms and nely chop.
Reserve soaking liquid.
Bring sugar and 2 Tbsp. water to a
boil in a medium saucepan over medium-
high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Once
sugar is dissolved, cook, without stirring,
until syrup is light copper in color, then
mix in oil, scallions, garlic, and rehydrated
mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until
scallions are wilted and mixture is
fragrant, about 2 minutes. Mix in pork
belly, then add wine. Simmer until most
of liquid is evaporated, about 1 minute.
A TA I WA N PA N T RY
A few staples youll need
for these dishes
13 2
Add ground bean sauce and mix to coat
pork belly, then add soy sauce, reserved
mushroom soaking liquid, star anise,
and cinnamon sticks. Bring to a simmer.
Reduce heat so liquid is at a bare
simmer and cook, stirring and pushing
down on meat occasionally to break up
further, until pork is tender and mixture
is thickened, 12 hours. (If the liquid
evaporates too quickly, just thin sauce
with a little more water). Skim excess fat
from surface of sauce, then pluck out and
discard star anise and cinnamon sticks.
Divide rice among bowls; ladle stewed
pork over rice. Top each with an egg and
some scallions and drizzle with chili oil.
Lamb Noodles with Crunchy
Vegetables and Cilantro
4 S E RV I N G S Use any leftover herb syrup
from this recipe in dressings or marinades.
H E R B SY R U P
2 cups cilantro leaves with tender
stems
1 cup mint leaves
cup simple syrup
LAMB SAUCE
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
1 lb. ground lamb
3 dried shiitake mushrooms
5 scallions, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, nely chopped
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, nely
chopped
cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice
wine)
2 Tbsp. sweet bean sauce
1 Tbsp. ground bean sauce
1 Tbsp. light soy sauce
N O O D L E S A N D ASS E M B LY
2 medium Persian cucumbers,
peeled, cut into very thin
matchsticks
1 large carrot, peeled, cut into
very thin matchsticks
T
SW EEN
BE A
CE
SA U
SW E E T B E A N SAU C E
Dark and opaque, its sweeter than
most bean pastes and reminiscent
of the better-known hoisin.
1 Tbsp. chili oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt
1 lb. fresh wide eggless wheat
noodles
2 Tbsp. white soy sauce
2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil
Coarsely chopped cilantro
(for serving)
I N G R E D I E N T I N F O : Wheat noodles can
be found at most Asian markets. Look for
ones that are about " wide (they should
resemble tagliatelle).
H E R B SY R U P Blanch cilantro and mint
in a medium pot of boiling water until
wilted, about 20 seconds. Drain herbs
and transfer to a bowl of ice water. Swish
around to stop cooking; drain. Squeeze
excess water from herbs.
Pure cilantro, mint, and simple syrup in
a blender until smooth. Transfer to a small
bowl; set aside.
L A M B S A U C E Whisk cornstarch, 1 Tbsp.
oil, and 1 Tbsp. water in a large bowl.
Add lamb, breaking apart with your
hands, and toss to coat. Let sit at room
temperature 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, soak mushrooms in 3 cups
hot water in a small bowl until mushrooms
are soft and water is cool, 2025
minutes. Remove mushrooms and nely
chop. Reserve soaking liquid.
Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium
saucepan over medium-high. Cook lamb,
stirring occasionally, until browned, about
5 minutes. Meat will release a lot of
moisture and fat while its cooking; pour
out all but about 2 Tbsp. fat. Then add
scallions, garlic, ginger, and rehydrated
mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until
slightly softened and fragrant, about
2 minutes.
Add wine and simmer until almost
completely evaporated, about 1 minute.
Mix in sweet bean sauce, ground bean
sauce, and soy sauce; lamb mixture
should be coated. Add reserved
C H I N E S E F I V E S P I C E P OW D E R
This popular ground spice blend most often
includes star anise, fennel seeds, cinnamon,
Sichuan peppercorns, and cloves.
 mushroom soaking liquid and bring to a
simmer. Reduce heat to a bare simmer
and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid
is thickened and velvety in consistency,
7590 minutes.
N O O D L E S A N D ASS E M B LY Toss
cucumbers, carrot, chili oil, lime juice, and
a pinch of salt in a small bowl to combine;
set aside.
Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling
water, stirring occasionally, until tender
but still chewy, about 3 minutes. Drain
and transfer to a large bowl. Immediately
add soy sauce, sesame oil, and
2 Tbsp. reserved herb syrup and stir with
chopsticks or tongs to loosen noodles and
coat. Add lamb sauce and toss to coat.
Divide noodles among bowls; top with
reserved cucumber mixture and cilantro.
Scallion Pancakes with Black
Vinegar Dipping Sauce
4 S E RV I N G S The secret to flaky scallion
pancakes isnt a long ingredient list. Its
in the rolling and coiling, which takes
practice. See Prep School on page 158
for some images to get you on your way.
DIPPING SAUCE
2 Tbsp. black (Chinkiang) vinegar
2 Tbsp. oyster sauce
2 Tbsp. sweet soy sauce
1 Tbsp. chili oil
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY REBECCA BARTOSHESKY.
1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
S C A L L I O N PA N C A K E S
2 cups all-purpose our, plus more
for dusting
cup (or more) vegetable oil,
plus more for brushing
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
6 scallions, very thinly sliced
(about 1 cup), divided
D I P P I N G S A U C E Whisk vinegar, oyster
sauce, soy sauce, chili oil, and sesame
seeds in a small bowl to combine; set
sauce aside.
S H AOX I N G W I N E
Comparable to dry sherry but brinier,
the amber-colored wine has a nutty flavor
with a slightly sweet finish.
S C A L L I O N PA N C A K E S Place 2 cups our
in a large bowl; add cup warm water
(105110) and stir until a very shaggy
dough forms. If dough looks dry, add
more water a tablespoonful at a time and
mix until dough comes together.
Turn out dough onto a lightly oured
surface and knead until smooth. (It will
tend to stick to your hands and the work
surface at points along the way, but dont
freak out, just re-our your hands and rub
them together to get the dough off, and
use a bench scraper to get the dough
off the surface). Cover dough with a
damp kitchen towel and let rest at room
temperature 30 minutes.
Flour your hands and divide dough into
4 pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time
and keeping remaining pieces covered
with damp kitchen towel, gently atten or
roll out dough on a lightly oured surface
to a 9" round. No need for brute force
herebe light! Brush dough lightly with oil
and sprinkle with tsp. salt. Sprinkle one-
quarter of scallions (about cup) evenly
over round and roll up, starting at the
edge closest to you, to make a spiraled
rope. Wind rope around itself to make a
coil (think cinnamon bun) and press the
outside end under to seal. Using the palm
of your hand, push down lightly on coil
to atten. Roll coil out gently into a
7" round and cover with another damp
kitchen towel. (Be careful not to roll out
pancakes too thin, as the scallions will
break through the dough.) Repeat
process with remaining pieces of dough,
scallions, salt, and more oil to make
3 more pancakes.
Heat cup oil in a medium nonstick
skillet over medium-high. Slip a pancake
into oil and cook, shaking pan gently
and pressing down on pancake to atten
more in the beginning, until golden brown,
about 2 minutes. Turn; cook until second
side is golden brown, about 2 minutes.
Transfer to paper towels to drain. Cut into
6 wedges. Repeat with remaining
pancakes, adding more oil to skillet if
needed. Serve with reserved sauce.
D R I E D F E R M E N T E D B L AC K B E A N S
The intensely flavored wrinkly wonders
known as douchi are soybeans that have
been cooked, fermented, and heavily salted.
Salted Spicy Peanut Brittle
with Ice Cream
4 S E RV I N G S This brittle has a bit of a kick
to it. If youre not into the heat, reduce the
amount of cayenne or omit it altogether.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
cup salted, roasted peanuts
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. black (Chinkiang) vinegar
tsp. baking soda
tsp. Chinese ve-spice powder
tsp. cayenne pepper
Flaky sea salt
1 pint vanilla ice cream
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A candy
thermometer
Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment
paper; coat with nonstick spray. Pulse
peanuts in a food processor until the size of
peas. Heat butter in a medium skillet over
medium. Cook peanuts, stirring often, until
golden, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer nuts to paper towels to
drain. Let cool.
Sprinkle sugar evenly across the bottom
of a medium saucepan; t saucepan
with thermometer. Set over medium
heat and cook, stirring with a heatproof
rubber spatula, until sugar is melted and
thermometer registers 290, about
3 minutes. Continue to cook, without
stirring, until deep amber in color and
thermometer registers 300, about
30 seconds longer. Mix in vinegar,
baking soda, ve-spice powder, cayenne,
and nuts. (The mixture will begin to bubble
and foamremain calm.) Immediately
pour onto prepared baking sheet and
spread as thin as possible with spatula.
Sprinkle peanut brittle with salt; let cool.
Crush brittle into small pieces. Scoop
ice cream into bowls and top with brittle.
D O A H E A D : Brittle can be made
1 week ahead. Break into large pieces
and store airtight, separated by sheets of
parchment to prevent sticking.
GROUND
BEAN
SAUCE
G R O U N D B E A N SAU C E
A thick pure made with yellow soybeans,
salt, flour, and spice. A teaspoon or
two adds umami richness to any dish.
13 3
 WHERE

THE

13 4
 T O F I N O M AY B E H E AV E N O N E A R T H . I F H E AV E N W E R E A T I N Y S U R F T O W N I N
B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A S U R R O U N D E D BY A N C I E N T R A I N F O R E S TS , P R I S T I N E C OA S T L I N E ,
A N D P I N E C O V E R E D P E A K S . C H E F N I C K N U T T I N G O F L O C A L FAV O R I T E W O L F I N
THE FOG INVITES US ALONG FOR AN AFTERNOON OF FORAGING, DRIFTWOODFIRE
C O O K I N G , A N D P L E N T Y O F F R I E D OYS T E R S D OW N BY T H E WAT E R

by Amiel Stanek photographs by Kamil Bialous

MEETS

THE
 S K A N A M E R I C A N if she
knows where Tofino is and
youll likely get a blank
stare. But ask practically any
Western Canadian about
this speck of a surf town
on the remote west coast
of Vancouver Island, Brit-
ish Columbia, and youll
see her face transform. Eyes
wide with longing, shell remember some trip to this uni-
corn of a place, where majestic temperate rainforests
meet the kind of rocky shores you see only on screen sav-
ers. New Englanders have Maine; Californians, Big Sur.
People in this corner of the world have Tofino, and it may
be more beautiful than both of those places combined.
Wed been wandering the mossy forest just out-
side of town for less than an hour, but Nick Nutting,
the chef of Wolf in the Fog, had already harvested
so many ocher-hued wild chanterelles that the greasy
pastry bag he carried them in was full to bursting. The
year I got here, one of my chefs took me out for the
first time, he recalled, pausing to bury his bearded
face in the bags aromatic contents. We drank beers,
foraged for mushrooms, and He clamped his hands
into fists, raised them to the sides of his head, and opened
them emphaticallythe universal sign for Mind. Blown.
13 6
Nutting doesnt get to forage as much these days ABOVE:
thats his staffs responsibility. But today he, along with A BOWL OF
general manager and co-owner Jorge Barandiaran GINSPIKED
and his wiry-haired two-year-old labradoodle, Oscar, P U N C H B E AT S
A COOLER OF
were enjoying a rare peak-tourist-season day off from
B E E R A N Y D AY;
their restaurant, reminiscing about the days before they
WOLF IN THE
were at the helm of the tiny towns hippest dining des- FOGS JORGE
tination. Back then the guys occupied their time fishing BARANDIARAN
and foraging and throwing dinner parties on the beach. STRIKES A POSE.
The restaurant retains that D.I.Y., beach-hang-in- PREVIOUS
paradise ethos, albeit more grown-up. The tables are set SPREAD: NICK
with vintage china and mismatched crystal; the punch NUTTING AND
still flows, complemented by a mostly natural wine list; HIS DOG OSCAR
and Nuttings ever-changing menu highlights the best FORAGE FOR
CHANTERELLES.
that the areas foragers and fishermen have to offer, with
an emphasis on hands-in, family-style feasts.
Today is a throwback to those scrappier days. That fat
sack of chanterelles is beach-bound, slated to be sau-
ted with brown butter and poured over grilled local
salmon. There will be giant fried oysters, too, crisped
alongside thick lardons of bacon in vintage cast iron over
the campfire; a salad of Canadian wild rice and toasty
crushed hazelnuts; and, of course, plenty of boozy gin
punch to keep all their friends partying long after the
golden light of the afternoon has faded.
When a day off looks like most peoples idea of
a dream vacation, youre doing something right.
F R I E D OYS T E R S
WITH BACON,
GARLIC,
AND SAGE
P . 14 4
ABOVE:
GOLDEN HOUR
ON THE BEACH
AT Q U I ST I S P O I N T.
OPPOSITE:
WHOLE GRILLED
SALMON WITH
CHANTERELLES
P. 14 4
GUTTER
 W H E N TO G O
June through September is peak season
for sun and surf, so book well in advance
for the most sought-after hotels. The town
is reliably less mobbed with families
N O RT H BY (and no less beautiful) during the late
N O RT H W E S T spring and early fall, but count on rain.
That said, if rough weather is your thing,
Ready to plan your
join the intrepid slicker-clad travelers who
Tofino getaway? Heres
show up every year for the November-to-
what you need to know
February storm watching season.
14 0
W H E R E TO S TAY
The gorgeous Twin Peakschic
Wickaninnish Inn is by far the toniest
(and priciest; high-season doubles from
$540 a night) stay in Tofino, boasting
ocean views for every room, sand-beach
access, and deluxe spa amenities. For a more
intimate experience, the six-room Cable
Cove Inn (queen rooms from $275 a night),
hidden away in a rocky inlet but a short
walk from downtown, is the move.
 W H AT TO E AT
Other than breakfast, lunch, and dinner
at the Wolf? Locally roasted espresso,
fancy doughnuts, and surfer-fuel breakfast
burritos at Rhino Coffee House; fiery dan
dan noodles and poke bowls topped with
unreasonably fresh local fish at Sea
Monster Noodle; and a great big platter
of Dungeness crab and raw shellfish while
watching the sun set from the deck at Ice
House Oyster Bar. You will not go hungry.

AINT NO
PART Y LIKE A
CAMPFIRE AND
PUNCHONTHE
B E AC H PA R T Y.
 OPPOSITE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP: WILD RICE
W I T H WAT E R C R E SS
AND HAZELNUTS,
P. 14 5 ; C R U S H E D
P O TATO E S W I T H
OYSTER BAR BUT TER,
P. 14 5 ; H A L I B U T W I T H
SPICY SAUSAGE,
TOM ATO E S , A N D
R O S E M A R Y , P. 14 4 ;
STOUTSTEAMED
SHELLFISH WITH
KELP AND CHARRED
O N I O N S , P. 14 4

LEMON
CURD WITH
BERRIES
P. 14 5
Fried Oysters with
Bacon, Garlic, and Sage
8 S E RV I N G S Holding the raw oysters
in the rice-flour dredge is a genius do-
ahead trick, allowing you to shuck and
coat the oysters hours ahead of fry time.
2 cups rice our
1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or
2 tsp. Morton kosher salt
tsp. cayenne pepper
24 large oysters, shucked
4 oz. slab bacon, cut into 1x"
pieces
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter,
divided
6 garlic cloves, smashed,
divided
8 sage leaves
Spicy mustard or hot sauce
(for serving)
Whisk rice flour, salt, and cayenne in
a medium bowl. Toss oysters in flour
mixture to coat well, then top with a thin
layer of dredge (make sure that none
of the oysters are peeking out). Cover
with plastic wrap and chill in dredge
until ready to fry.
Cook bacon in a large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-
low, stirring occasionally, until bacon
is browned and crisp, 1215 minutes.
Transfer bacon to a small bowl with
a slotted spoon.
Pour half of bacon fat into a small
heatproof bowl or measuring cup and
set aside. Add cup butter to drippings
in skillet and heat over medium-high.
As soon as butter is foaming, remove half
of oysters from dredge and shake off any
excess. Add to skillet along with 3 garlic
cloves and cook, gently shaking skillet to
baste oysters with fat and turning oysters
occasionally, until golden brown and
crisp all over, about 5 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, transfer oysters and garlic
to paper towels and let drain.
Pour off fat in skillet; discard. Wipe out
skillet and return to medium-high. Heat
remaining cup butter and reserved
bacon fat in skillet. As soon as butter is
foaming, repeat process with remaining
oysters and garlic. Transfer to paper
towels and let drain.
Cook sage in same skillet just until
crisp, about 30 seconds. Transfer to
paper towels.
Arrange oysters and garlic on a platter
and top with fried sage and bacon.
Serve with mustard.
D O A H E A D : Oysters can be dredged
4 hours ahead. Keep chilled.
14 4
Stout-Steamed Shellsh with
Kelp and Charred Onions
8 S M A L L O R 4 L A R G E S E RV I N G S To
serve this dish as a main course for eight,
double the recipe over two pots and
throw some warm baguettes on the table.
2 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced into
rings
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 head of garlic, halved crosswise
5 sprigs thyme
1 4" piece kombu or 1 toasted
nori sheet
1 bay leaf
1 12-oz. bottle stout
5 lb. littleneck clams and/or
mussels, scrubbed, mussels
debearded
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Heat oil in a large wide pot over high.
Cook onion, stirring occasionally,
until edges are blackened, 68 minutes.
Let pot cool slightly, then add butter,
garlic, arranging cut side down, and
thyme and cook over low heat until
garlic is golden and fragrant, about
3 minutes. Add kombu, bay leaf, and
stout and increase heat to medium-high.
Add shellfish; cover pot. Cook, shaking
pot often and transferring shellfish to a
large bowl as they open, until all the
shellfish are open, 58 minutes. Discard
any that dont open. Season cooking
broth with salt and pepper. Divide
shellfish among bowls; ladle broth over.
Halibut with Spicy Sausage,
Tomatoes, and Rosemary
8 S E RV I N G S Nduja is a spicy,
spreadable, fully cooked sausage; youll
find it at some Italian specialty stores.
16 cherry and/or Sun Gold tomatoes,
divided
6 garlic cloves, smashed, divided
2 sprigs rosemary, divided
8 oz. nduja, casing removed,
crumbled, or Spanish-style
chorizo, casings removed, thinly
sliced, divided
3 lb. skinless halibut llet, cut into
8 pieces, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 Tbsp. dry white wine, divided
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Prepare a grill for medium heat. (Or
preheat an oven to 375.) Tear 4 sheets
of heavy-duty foil to measure about
16x12". Set 2 sheets on a work surface;
top each with a remaining sheet of foil
(you are making 2 double-layer packets).
Divide tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, and
nduja between sheets, placing in the
center. Season halibut generously with
salt and pepper and set on top. Drizzle
with wine and oil. Bring opposite sides
of foil together in the center; crimp
tightly, pressing out air, to close.
Place foil packets directly on grill grates
(or a rimmed baking sheet if using oven)
and cook until tomatoes are beginning
to burst and halibut is opaque all the way
through, 1416 minutes. Let rest at room
temperature a few minutes, then carefully
open and transfer fish to a platter. Top with
tomatoes and cooking juices from packets.
D O A H E A D : Packets can be assembled
1 day ahead. Chill.
Whole Grilled Salmon
with Chanterelles
8 S E RV I N G SThis recipe is going to
instruct you to remove the backbone of
the fish from inside the cavityno small
task but well worth it. You can also just
tie two whole fillets of salmon together
(skin side facing out) if youd like.
CHANTERELLES
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 lb. chanterelle mushrooms or other
wild mushrooms, halved if large
2 sprigs thyme
2 garlic cloves, smashed
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
S A L M O N A N D ASS E M B LY
1 45 lb. whole salmon, preferably
sockeye or coho, cleaned, scales
removed
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 lemon, thinly sliced
4 sprigs dill
4 sprigs thyme
2 sprigs tarragon
3 Tbsp. olive oil
C H A N T E R E L L E S Heat a large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-high.
Add butter and oil and swirl pan until
butter is melted. Add mushrooms, thyme,
and garlic and season with salt and
pepper. Cook, tossing often, until
mushrooms are golden brown and
tender, 58 minutes; set aside.
S A L M O N A N D ASS E M B LY Prepare a grill
for medium-low heat. Using a sharp
knife, make a slit along belly of salmon,
 running from rib cage to tail. Turn salmon
on its back and cut along both sides
of backbone without piercing through
skin on other side. Carefully remove
backbone without tearing skin, then
remove pin bones with small needle-
nose pliers or tweezers. Season inside
of fish with salt and pepper and stuff
lemon slices, dill, thyme, and tarragon
inside cavity. Tie wet kitchen twine
around fish in several places to secure.
Place on a rimmed baking sheet;
rub skin all over with oil.
Carefully place fish on grill grates
and grill, uncovered, until flesh on bottom
side is mostly opaque but still slightly
translucent in the center, 1218 minutes.
Carefully turn fish and cook on the other
side to the same doneness, 810 minutes.
Transfer fish to a clean rimmed baking
sheet and let rest at least 10 minutes.
Place skillet with chanterelles directly
on edge of grill to reheat while you
portion the fish. Remove strings and peel
back skin from salmon; discard. Break
flesh of top fillet into large pieces and
transfer to a platter. Discard aromatics
and remove skin from bottom fillet, break
up, and transfer to platter. Season with
more salt and pepper and spoon warm
chanterelles over.
Wild Rice with
Watercress and Hazelnuts
8 S E RV I N G S The sturdier your cress,
the longer this salad will hold up at
room temperature.
2 cups wild rice
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt
cup skin-on hazelnuts
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 large onion, thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
cup sherry vinegar or
FOOD STYLING BY CHRIS LANIER. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.
red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup
1 Tbsp. whole grain Dijon mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups trimmed watercress, upland
cress, or micro cress
Cook rice and bay leaf in a large pot
of boiling salted water until some grains
have burst and rice is tender, 4555
minutes. Drain thoroughly and spread
out rice on a rimmed baking sheet to
cool; discard bay leaf.
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350.
Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet,
tossing halfway through, until slightly
darkened and fragrant, 810 minutes.
Let cool, then rub hazelnuts in a clean
kitchen towel to remove some of the skins.
Gently crush nuts by pressing under
the flat side of a chefs knife; set aside.
Heat butter in a large skillet over
medium-low. Cook onion and garlic,
stirring often, until onion is golden,
1520 minutes. Remove from heat.
Whisk vinegar, maple syrup, and
mustard in a large bowl until smooth.
Scrape in onion mixture and cooled rice
and toss to coat; season with salt and
pepper. Fold in nearly all of the hazelnuts
and cress, then transfer to a platter.
Top with remaining hazelnuts and cress.
D O A H E A D : Rice can be cooked
2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
Rice mixture (without hazelnuts and
cress) can be made 3 hours ahead; store
airtight at room temperature.
Crushed Potatoes
with Oyster Bar Butter
8 S E RV I N G S Make extra seasoned
butter to eat with pasta, on crusty bread,
or, as the name implies, with shellfish.
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
room temperature
4 garlic cloves, nely grated
2 tsp. nely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. hot sauce
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
cup chopped parsley
cup chopped chives
1 Tbsp. chopped dill
2 tsp. chopped tarragon
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
3 lb. baby Yukon Gold or new
potatoes, scrubbed
1 bay leaf
Mix butter, garlic, lemon zest, lemon
juice, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce,
and 1 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl with a
rubber spatula until smooth. Gently mix
in parsley, chives, dill, and tarragon;
season with salt and pepper.
Place potatoes and bay leaf in a large
pot and pour in cold water to cover
by 2"; season generously with salt. Bring
to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer
until potatoes are tender, 1520 minutes.
Drain, discard bay leaf, and let potatoes
cool slightly. Using the flat side of a
chefs knife or the heel of your hand,
smash potatoes lightly to flatten.
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over
medium-high. Add half of potatoes and
cook in a single layer, turning once,
until brown and crisp, about 5 minutes.
Transfer potatoes to bowl with herb
butter. Wipe out skillet, repeat process
with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil and remaining
potatoes. Toss potatoes in butter
until they are all well coated (the warm
potatoes should melt the butter).
D O A H E A D : Herb butter can be made
2 days ahead; cover and chill. Potatoes
can be boiled and smashed 1 day ahead;
let cool, then cover and chill. Pat dry
before frying.
Lemon Curd with Berries
8 S E RV I N G S
This very lemony curd is
made with whole eggs instead of just the
yolks, which gives it an extra-light texture.
2 Tbsp. nely grated lemon zest
1 cup fresh lemon juice
cup plus 12 Tbsp. sugar
6 large eggs
Pinch of kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted
butter, cut into pieces
2 cups mixed berries
Bring lemon zest, lemon juice, and
cup sugar to a bare simmer in a large
heavy saucepan over medium heat,
whisking to dissolve sugar, then remove
from heat.
Whisk eggs, salt, and cup sugar in
a large bowl until light and thick, about
1 minute. Whisking constantly, gradually
pour about one-quarter of hot lemon
mixture into egg mixture, then, whisking
constantly, incorporate egg mixture into
remaining lemon mixture in saucepan.
Cook over medium heat, whisking
constantly, until lemon curd is opaque
and thick enough to hold the marks of
the whisk, about 2 minutes.
Scrape lemon curd into a blender.
With motor on medium speed, add butter
a piece at a time, waiting until each piece
is fully incorporated before adding the
next, until the butter is emulsified and curd
is light and thick.
Transfer lemon curd to a large
nonreactive bowl and cover with plastic
wrap, pressing directly against surface
so a skin doesnt form. Chill until cold, at
least 2 hours.
Toss berries and remaining 12 Tbsp.
sugar in another large bowl. Let sit until
some juices have accumulated, 2530
minutes. Spoon curd into bowls and top
with berries and their juices.
D O A H E A D : Lemon curd can be made
2 days ahead. Keep chilled.
14 5
K O R E A N F R I E D C H I C K E N M AY B E A S T A T E S I D E P H E N O M E N O N ,
BUT NOWHERE IS IT MORE OBSESSED OVER THAN ON THE
S T R E E T S O F S E O U L . W E S L E Y YA N G S T AY S U P L A T E I N P U R S U I T
OF THE CRUNCHIEST, SPICIEST BIRDS IN TOWN

photographs by Alex Lau

 A spread of
spicy chicken and
more delivered
to teens along the
Han River

14 7
Hanchus
fried chicken
(spicy and not)
with pickled
radishes, rice
cakes, and
corn snack
 I T S M O N D A Y N I G H T , and the Korean
salar y me n swa rm the s ea ts o f G eo s u n g ,
with i t s t a bl e s l it b en ea th a n a m b er g low.
The rest a ura nt is a f ew b lo c ks a wa y f ro m
Gwan g hwa mun Sq u a re, the p la z a w here
a Saturday protest against the president had
drawn millions. But as the work week begins
again, so do the comfor ts and routines of daily
life . Its time for chimaek , a tradition that
combines the Korean term for beer, maekju,
with the English loanword for chicken.

A
KOREANAMERICAN Unlike their American competition, Koreans fry
translator, Douglas, was their chicken twice. They dredge it in flour and
guiding me through some potato starch for its first bath in hot vegetable oil,
of the best chimaek restau- then remove it before its fully cooked, allowing it to
rants, or hofs, in town. We briefly cool. Minutes later the meat returns for a sec-
ordered tall glasses of Cass, ond dip in hot oil, which draws out excess moisture
the Korean beer that is and renders the skins fat. This double frying cre-
(along with Hite and OB) one ates a wonderfully light, thin coating that can with-
of three largely indistinguishable domestic brews you stand a range of popular saucesfrom a sweet
find everywhere. We requested two fried chickens, soy-garlic blend to a fiery gochujang-based one
both whole, one with a curried batter, the other while still remaining crisp.
encrusted with garlic. We broke off the crunchy mor- Though the meat is typically drier than the juicy
sels as the bawdy din of after-work drinks mounted chicken beloved by Americans, its the crispness of
around us. Our neighbors Korean fried chicken that has
crisp white shirts had started many hailing it as the best
the progressive decline that In t e r ms of ove r whe l m in g fried chicken in the world.
would leave them ever more t he l i mb i c s ys t e m wit h f a t a n d Indeed, its gone international:
rumpled and grease-flecked as Major chains like Bonchon
the evening wore on. ca r bs a n d s ug a r a n d s a l t and Kyochon draw crowds in
Fried chicken first appeared a nd l i q u o r, c h im a e k is a m on g New York City and Los Ange-
in Korea in the 60s but didnt les. And KFC is perhaps even
become a major phenomenon t he mo s t p ot e n t de l ive r y more popular in China thanks
until the early 90s. It was s ys t e m s e ve r de v is e d. in part to the import of a
then that Korean fried chicken Seoul-based soap opera, My
chains emerged to compete Love from the Star, in which
with Kentucky Fried Chicken, which had entered one of Koreas most famous television actresses, Jun
the Korean market in the 80s in anticipation of Ji-hyun, regularly goes on chimaek sprees.
Seoul hosting the 88 Summer Olympics. Later that The fried chicken is often served alongside some
decade, opening chimaek joints became a favored pickled daikon radish and shredded cabbage slaw
second career for workers laid off during the Asian with a creamy dressing, the richness of the meat
financial crisis. The popularity of KFC, as locals call tempered by the acid of the pickle and the sweet-
Korean fried chicken, hasnt dissipated since. ness of the sauce cut by the bitterness of Korean

14 9
 The street scene
in Seoul: bibimbap,
rice cakes, Korean
sausage, and lots and
lots of chimaek

151
 Rice wine by the bottle at Mukjeon; Yook Hae Romances whole fried chicken and beef tartare
beer. For those who enjoyand who does not?that
pleasant stupefaction that comes from overwhelm-
ing the limbic system with fat and carbs and sugar
and salt and liquor, chimaek is among the most
potent delivery systems ever devised.
Geosungs was the first of many baskets of fried
chicken in Seoul that provided what I had flown
across the Pacific Ocean seeking: an instant jolt to
the nerves that made my surroundings momentarily
fade and my senses turn inward. The balance was
perfect between the crisp skin, thicker than usual
for Korean fried chicken; the firm flesh that seemed
to grip the palate with its fullness; and the garlic
wafting up into my nostrils. And then I was back
from my brief trance, gulping down the beer, with
its cold, astringent snap that awakened me like the
playful flick of a wet towel.
This is good, I said to my translator, and it was
the first time in days that I felt like saying it out
loud. We had begun the morning at Sai Chicken,
where the main attraction was a refreshing bowl
of bean sprouts in a sugary sauce. Across the
street, two sweet old aunties (sisters, as it turns
out) at Buamdong Chicken Center served a spicy
boneless chicken that was overshadowed by thick-
cut french fries. Two nights before, at Yook Hae
Romance Chicken , a crowded dive bar, I had two
fried chickens and an order of raw beef topped with
an oozing egg. The tartare was superb, the chicken
in all cases palatable, but it frankly didnt strike me
as anything special.
15 2
T
H E R E A R E M O R E than 30,000
places serving chimaek in South
Korea, divided between large
franchises like BBQ and a dizzy-
ing profusion of eccentric inde-
pendent shops like Hanchu and
Oksang Dalbit, two popular
postwork haunts. I had arrived
in the winter, though Id heard that the best time to
enjoy fried chicken is in the summer, when Koreans
eat it at baseball games or have it sent to them in
parks. For many locals, its primarily a take-out food,
ordered by smartphone app from the big chains and
delivered by intrepid deliverymen who can find you
wherever you are, including on the banks of the
snaking Han River. This transit is rapid enough as to
not steam the crust soft in its container or detract
from the taste; at one point, I tried Kyochon with
some Koreans at their office building, sampling the
full array of styles that the major chain sellsspicy,
crunchy drumsticks, soy-garlic wings, sal sal
chicken strips in a rice batter, and honey wings with
a deep-fried candied coating. This was some of the
best KFC I had tasted.
For college students, chimaek is a late-night snack,
scarfed down in dive bars by those testing the outer
limits of their alcohol tolerance. (Koreans drink more
liquor than any other people on the planetmore
than twice as many shots per capita as the runners-
up, the Russians.) Once these young people graduate,
chimaek becomes the favored accompaniment to the
 Cheers to the af ter-work crowd at Hanchu; a whole Nonsense chicken cut into pieces with spicy chili dipping sauce

compulsory end-of-day eating-and-drinking mara- there that I had my first taste of Korean fried chicken
thons known as haesik that pervade Korean work life. and there that I grew nostalgic for an old country
And later on in the night, chimaek is often ordered to that I had never actually experienced as an adult.
room salons, the quasi-brothel hostess karaoke bars Though chimaek places specialize in beer (its in
where many of the corporate business deals in Seoul the name, after all), many also serve the sweet rice
get finalized. I intended to experience as much of liquor known as soju; some Koreans blend the two
chimaek as anyone could in a week. into one glass for a potent combination. Those are
I also had my own personal agenda. I wanted to hardly the only drinking options, though. After our
get to know Korea, an interest that was spurred on Geosung dinner, I headed over to Mukjeon, a restau-
by two developments in my life. The first was the rant specializing in makgeolli, a rustic sweet milky
birth of my daughter three years ago. Her poignantly rice wine and its traditional pairings: a platter
Korean features were a of pan-fried minced meat,
reminder of ancestral roots cod, spinach, green beans, and
long ago severed. Like many zucchini, all of it tasty. I was
coarsely Americanized sons of meeting up with a friend of
Korean immigrants, I never
It s d e l i ve re d by in t re p id a friend, a Korean-American
really cared much for Korean d e l i ve r ym e n who c a n f in d working in Seoul named Jona-
food, yet I found that serving than, and his friend, Ho-Sang,
bibimbap or kalbi to my half-
yo u w he re ve r you a re , who worked at a major chaebol,
Korean toddler made me feel i ncl u d i n g on t he ba n ks of one of the megacorporations
marginally less rootless than t he s n a k in g H a n Rive r. that dominate almost every
I was, having some residue of aspect of Korean life.
a collective past to pass on to Ho-Sang gave me the intro-
my progeny. The second was ductory lesson in drinking eti-
the accident of my familys recent move to a neigh- quette that is the first thing any company man in
borhood in Montreal known as Notre-Dame-de- Seoul must learn. When a superior pours a drink into
Grce. NDG, it turned out, had a sizable population your glass, you hold it with both hands in a gesture of
of Korean immigrants who had opened nearly a prayerful supplication, your head slightly bowed and
dozen restaurants within a three-mile radius of eyes averted. When toasting, junior employees strike
where I lived, including two sellers of Korean fried the top of the glass against the bottom of their bosss
chicken that are a few blocks from my house. It was glass. If he toasts with several of his employees,

15 3
Chicken, drinks,
and wall art by
the young crew
at Oksang Dalbit

this can create difficulties, as all involved jostle to
ensure that they find a spot low enough on the glass.
There are hundreds of these rules that you have to
be taught, Ho-Sang said. I dont know all of them.
Mastering the rules was obligatory for anyone who
wished to progress up the corporate ladder, though
they also proved practical for visitors to Seoul.
Despite the rigid formal etiquette, the purpose
of these chicken-and-booze excursions was to
release Koreans from their place in the hierarchy
and free them to be spontaneous. There was no
logical way to resolve this paradoxlearning to
accept it was a large part of getting along in Seoul
society. After a few drinks, we spoke about the ten-
sions faced by young people in Seoul today. South
Korea has one of the lowest birthrates of any coun-
try in the world and one of the highest suicide
rates. Intense competition in every aspect of life is
the rule. Its employees work longer hours than any
other country in the world except Mexico. And
Jonathan noted that while the average salary in
Seoul is around $50,000 a year, apartments can
sell for $1.5 million. This means that few men can
afford to meet the cultural obligation to own prop-
erty before getting married, which helped explain
why marriage rates had hit a record low in 2015.
Soon enough it was time for some escapism.
Ho-Sang took Jonathan and me to a high-end room
salon, where he spent $200 each on several bottles
of whiskey and $2,000 for a
fruit platter, a live electric
guitar player to bulk up a
karaoke machine, and the
H e f r i e d it f or a g ood
company of a rotating cast of 20 mi nut e s , brin g in g out
seven long-limbed hostesses.
They wore tight dresses and
a w ho l e c h ic ke n c ut in t o
poured our drinks, demon- s ma l l p i e c e s a n d e n c a s e d
strating enormous skill in i n a ha rd a m be r s he l l .
making an awkward commer-
cial transaction resemble a
warmly human one.
We arrived in a group of four men and one woman,
a female co-worker named Claudia who would, in a
different cultural setting, probably have grounds to
bring harassment charges against her firm. But she
was game. It turned out she was a fantastic singer
FOR DETAILS ON THE SPOTS IN TRAVEL 2017, SEE SOURCEBOOK
perhaps good enough to be a professional.
We also came equipped with a basket of boneless
Nene Chicken in anticipation of the wee hours of the
morning when the makgeolli and the whiskey started
making the room tilt on its axis. I had always regarded
the manufacture by K-Pop moguls of boy and girl
groups as something of a dark joke. But there in that
karaoke room, drunk out of our minds, listening to
Claudia belt out anthems about lost love, I felt the
power and urgency of K-Pop. It was nakedly manipu-
lative and cheesy as hell, but no one with a heart
could resist it. I started tearing into the chickenthe
fifth serving I had eaten that day. Amid intense hun-
ger and fatigue, it was a complete requital of desire.
B
Y M O R N I N G I was a study in
the ill effects of overindulgence
in beer, soju, and fried chicken:
sallow, bloodshot, hungover,
and clearly exhausted, visibly
puffier than when I arrived.
I didnt leave my hotel until
2 p.m., when I went to a famous
chimaek place called Dool Dool. An order of bone-
less chicken in sweet chili sauce arrived, and I began
scarfing it down. It was fine. A little dry. And besides,
as one Korean I met had told me: My mother always
said even old shoes taste good when they are deep-
fried. (To be fair, I probably would have liked it a
lot under different circumstances.)
On the day before my flight home from Seoul, eat-
ing more chicken felt impossible. Yet there was one
final spot to try. Nonsense Chicken, on the main strip
of the humming Itaewon neighborhood, was a bare
and empty white room occupied by a short, sun-
baked Korean man with a boxy torso, liver spots on
his forehead, and a brusque manner. He told me that
it was mandatory to start with a can of Hite beer.
There was only one style of chicken on offer. He fried
it for a good 20 minutes, bringing out a whole chicken
cut into small pieces and encased in a hard amber
shell, alongside a roughly cut slaw drizzled with soy
sauce and wasabi. It was a more old-fashioned style
of chicken, he explained, one that predated the
chimaek craze in appearance,
texture, and taste. After one
bite, I knew it was the best
chicken I had tried all week.
Every now and again Ill
eat at a humble hole-in-the-
wall that leaves me feeling
obscurely ashamed of being
able to offer nothing besides
money in exchange for the
hospitality to which Ive just
been treated. Whenever I have
such experiences, I start to feel a sequence of emo-
tions. First, enormous gratitude for what Ive just
eaten. Second, the anxious sense that ineffably
great spots like that are always on the verge of dis-
appearing from the world. And finally, retroactive
resentment at all the other imperfect places Ive vis-
ited throughout my life. Such moments resist any
explanation and cannot be anticipated in advance.
The gnarled old man who had made the chicken
didnt seem in possession of any particular art or
skill. He simply did what everybody else did with
the chicken, but with some accidental or deliberate
purity of heart that made itself known in every bite.
I dont want to wax too eloquent, as the whole point
is that Korean fried chicken is a humble working-
mans snack without any pretensions of being any-
thing more. Yet in just this way, some ordinary things
wind up redeeming everything else you endured
along the way to finding them.
15 5
prep school
FROM P. 84
Flame On
Scotch bonnets,
the fiery Caribbean
chiles that lend
traditional jerk
chicken its signature
heat, can be tough
to track down, which
is why we offer
habaneros as a
substitute. But using
them interchangeably
can be diceyso
many factors, from
where theyre grown
to ripeness and size,
can affect the spice
level of either pepper.
Regardless of what
you work with, be
conservative with
how many you use at
first. Remember: You
can always add, but
you cant take away.
A .S.
P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
T E C H N I Q U E S , T I P S , A N D M O R E F R OM T H E B O N A P P T I T T E S T K I T C H E N
FROM P. 80
INTO THE DARKNESS
When bananas go from lightly mottled to brown all over, its time to either throw them away
or make a loaf of banana bread. Not so with plantains, their starchy counterpart: When they
go all dark, its a sign that theyve achieved peak ripeness, exactly what youre looking for
when you want to make a batch of chef Sarah Kirnons irresistibly garlicky twice-fried plantains.
While they do have plenty of uses in their unripe green statethink so-crunchy-theyre-loud
plantain chipsonly the deeply colored fruit will yield the ideal crispy on the outside, creamy on
the inside result were after for this particular dish. It can sometimes be hard to find plantains that
are fully brown at your average grocery store, so buy a bunch a few days before you want
to cook and store them in a paper bag, which will help them to ripen faster. N I K I TA R I C H A R D S O N
FROM P. 14 4
REAL CHAR POWER
Aggressively charred rings of onion are the key to chef Nick Nuttings
deceptively simple beer-steamed shellfishthey lend the broth an
appealingly bitter, savory quality that contrasts with the bright, briny
clams and mussels. The secret to getting plenty of color on those
alliums? Not adding salt until theyre good and dark. Salt
draws the moisture out of onions (or any vegetable, for that matter),
which causes them to soften and steam rather than caramelize
(and eventually char). Now you can burn your food, say I meant
to do that, and actually, you know, mean it. A M I E L S TA N E K
M A Y 2 0 17 15 7
prep school

FROM P. 132

THE BIG
STEEP
Hydrating TEST KITCHEN TALK
dried shiitake
mushrooms Claire Saffitz,
can feel like an senior food editor
exercise in futility.
The corklike When the muffins
fungi float in a
bowl of hot water, I was baking at home
so weve always were coming out wonky,
weighed them
down awkwardly I thought my oven
with a plate to get was the problem. Turns
them to sink into the
liquid. That is, until
out, the real issue
we learned about was my bargain-store
Win Son chef Trigg muffin pans. When
Browns brilliant
hack: He turns to an I switched to the heavy-
extra-large French duty Oxo Good Grips
press to get the job
done. Not only does 12-cup muffin pan
the tools plunger ($25; oxo.com),
keep the shrooms
fully submerged
everything came out
in the hot water, but beautifully. The nonstick
it also allows you finish prevented burned
to press even more
flavor out of them edges and bottoms,
after they soak. Plus, and baked goods slipped
that mesh filters out
any grit, leaving you right out. The generous
with clear, umami- lip also makes it easy to
rich broth and juicy
mushrooms. grasp with oven mitts
AS H L E Y M AS O N meaning no thumbprints
in your muffins.

FROM P. 133

JUST ROLL
WITH IT
If only making crispy,
flaky scallion pancakes were
as easy as, well, making
regular pancakes. The stretchy
dough gets brushed with
oil and rolled in on itself many
times to create delicate layers
and little pockets where tangy
dipping sauce can hide. 1. 2. 3.
Its a labor of love but well On a lightly floured surface, Lift the side closest to you with Form the dough into a snug coil
worth it. Heres our no-fail flatten the dough into a 9" disk your fingers and roll the dough into and tuck the end piece underneath
method for shaping them. with a rolling pin. Brush with a tight spiraled rope, tucking in the swirl to seal. Gently press
A .M.
vegetable oil and sprinkle liberally the scallions as you roll up. Apply down with the palm of your hand,
with sliced scallions and salt. pressure so it all sticks together. then roll out to 7" in diameter.

15 8 M A Y 2 0 17
 Tart Town
There used to be two choices
when it came to buying
vinegar: red and white.
Then balsamic crashed the
party, followed by sherry
and apple cider. These days
we couldnt imagine our
pantries without a range
of vinegars to suit any
occasion. Here are three that
were crushing on right now.
CHRIS MOROCCO

COCONUT
Pleasantly funky, it brightens
adobo and works anywhere
a full-flavored but light
vinegar like cider vin would.
Look for versions fermented
from the sap of the tree, which
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRUCE HUTCHISON (ONIONS, PANCAKES, PORTRAIT); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (VINEGARS).

is high in amino acids.

BLACK
Dark, thick, and slightly
sweet, this Chinese vinegar
is great straight up as
a dipping sauce for
dumplings or drizzled over
stir-fried vegetables for
a finishing punch of acidity.

MALT
Not new to us, but weve been
revisiting this throwback
option in a big way. Its
fermented from a beerlike
malt mixture, which lends
it earthy sweetness.
Fish and chips, anyone?
recipe index sourcebook
APPETIZERS NOODLES R.S.V.P. pp. 1824 ROOOOOOAD TRIP! pp. 120123
Fried Oysters with BAM BAM BAKERY 267 Commercial St., Portland, ME; AUSTIN MOTEL 1220 S. Congress Ave., Austin;
Lamb Noodles with 207-899-4100; bambambakery.com
Bacon, Garlic, 512-441-1157; austinmotel.com
Crunchy Vegetables CAFE OLEI 2439 S. Kihei Rd. No. 201A, Kihei, HI; BANG BITE FILLING STATION 411 W. Water St.,
and Sage p. 144 and Cilantro p. 132 808-891-1368; cafeoleirestaurants.com
Marinated Goat TUSK 2448 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR;
Santa Fe; 505-469-2345
Cheese with Herbs POULTRY 503-894-8082; www.tuskpdx.com BIG BEND SADDLERY 2701 E. Hwy. 90, Alpine, TX; 800-
and Spices p. 68 Miss Ollies Jerk STARTERS pp. 2756 634-4502; bigbendsaddlery.com
Chicken p. 84 BING MI SW Ninth and Alder St., Portland, OR; BROKEN SPOKE 3201 S. Lamar Blvd., Austin;
Scallion Pancakes 503-539-3617; bingmiportland.com 512-442-6189; brokenspokeaustintx.net
with Black Vinegar VEGE TARIAN CHICAGO ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION HOTEL COOPERS OLD TIME 604 W. Young St., Llano, TX;
Dipping Sauce p. 133 12 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago; 312-940-3552; 325-247-5713; coopersbbq.com
Quesadillas with chicagoathletichotel.com
BEVERAGES Oaxacan Cheese THE CRAWFORD HOTEL 1701 Wynkoop St., Denver;
EL COSMICO 802 S. Highland Ave., Marfa, TX;
Mezcal Cocktail and Squash Blossoms 720-460-3700; thecrawfordhotel.com 432-729-1950; elcosmico.com
with Hibiscus and p. 119 DA CAINO Via della Chiesa, 4, Montemerano, Italy; EL MODELO 1715 Second St. SW, Albuquerque;
Coriander p. 118 +39-0564-602817; dacaino.com 505-242-1843; elmodelomexicanfoods.com
Rum Punch p. 82 VEGETABLES, FLATTS 27-26-3 Yanami, Noto-cho, Hosu-gun, FOOD SHARK 909 W. San Antonio St./Hwy. 90, Marfa,
Ishikawa, Japan; flatt.jp/en TX; 432-207-2090
SIDE DISHES
BREAD THE FLYING PIG 61 Lexington Ave., NYC; HIGH DESERT BREWING CO. 1201 W. Hadley Ave.,
Charred Asparagus theflyingpignyc.com Las Cruces, NM; 575-525-6752
BAs Best Morning
Buns p. 92 with Citrus Bagna HEWING HOTEL 300 Washington Ave. N, Minneapolis;
HOTEL SAINT CECILIA 112 Academy Dr., Austin;
Cauda p. 67 866-831-7121; hewinghotel.com
Gluten-Free Coconut HOTEL EMMA 136 E. Grayson St., San Antonio; 512-852-2400; hotelsaintcecilia.com
Bread p. 24 Coconut Rice and 210-448-8300; thehotelemma.com HOTEL SAN JOS 1316 S. Congress Ave., Austin;
Peas p. 84 HTEL LE RELAIS SAINT GERMAIN 9 Carrefour de 800-574-8897; sanjosehotel.com
Scallion Pancakes with lOdon, Paris; +33-1-44-27-07-97; JUNES ALL DAY 1722 S. Congress Ave., Austin;
Black Vinegar Dipping Crushed Potatoes hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com 512-416-1722; junesallday.com
Sauce p. 133 with Oyster Bar Butter LAS ALCOBAS 1915 Main St., St. Helena, CA; LAUNDERETTE 2115 Holly St., Austin; 512-382-1599;
BREAKFAST p. 145 707-963-7000; lasalcobasnapavalley.com lauderetteaustin.com
THE LINE HOTEL 202 Euclid St. NW, Washington, D.C.;
BAs Best Morning Fried Eggplants with 203-588-0525; thelinehotel.com LOS POBLANOS 4803 Rio Grande Blvd. NW,
Buns p. 92 Labneh and Spiced RIVERTOWN LODGE 731 Warren St., Hudson, NY; Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM; 505-344-9297;
Gluten-Free Coconut Cashews p. 126 518-512-0954; rivertownlodge.com lospoblanos.com
Bread p. 24 SINGLE THREAD FARMS 131 North St., Healdsburg, CA; LOST HORSE SALOON 306 E. San Antonio St., Marfa, TX;
Garlicky Plantains 707-723-4646; singlethreadfarms.com 432-729-4499; losthorsesaloon.com
SALADS p. 84 THE SUTTLE LODGE 13300 U.S. Hwy. 20, Sisters, OR; MANO MERCANTILE 120 E. El Paso St., Marfa, TX;
Mango and Cucumber 541-638-7001; thesuttlelodge.com 432-729-2024; manomercantile.com
Cantaloupe and TAI CHI JIANBING 1325 Ninth Ave., San Francisco;
Cucumber Salad p. 20 Chow p. 84 415-215-9385; taichijianbing.com MARFA BURRITO 104 E. Waco St., Marfa, TX; 325-514-8675
Mango and Cucumber Marinated Cucumbers URBAN COWBOY B&B 1603 Woodland St., Nashville; MODERN GENERAL 637 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe;
Chow p. 84 with Fried Shallots 347-840-0525; urbancowboybnb.com 505-930-5462; moderngeneralnm.com
p. 126 THE WILLIAM VALE 111 N. 12th St., Brooklyn; PIZZA FOUNDATION 305 S. Spring St., Marfa, TX;
Quick-Pickled 718-631-8400; thewilliamvale.com 432-729-3377; pizzafoundation.com
Rhubarb Salad p. 88 Sauted Collard CITY GUIDES: LONDON pp. 95100 SHIPROCK SANTA FE 53 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe;
MAIN COURSES Greens p. 82 BAD SPORTS 184 Hackney Rd.; badsports.co.uk 505-982-8478; shiprocksantafe.com
THE BARBARY 16 Neals Yard; thebarbary.co.uk STELLINA 103 Highland St., Marfa, TX;
SEAFOOD Wild Rice with BLEECKER For locations, go to bleeckerburger.co.uk
Watercress and 432-729-2030; stellinamarfa.com
Broiled Red Snapper BOROUGH MARKET 8 Southwark St.;
Hazelnuts p. 145 +44-20-7407-1002; boroughmarket.org.uk TEN THOUSAND WAVES SPA/IZANAMI 21 Ten
with Zaatar Salsa Thousand Waves Way, Santa Fe; 505-982-9304;
Verde p. 72 BREDDOS 82 Goswell Rd.; +44-20-3535-8301;
MISCELLANEOUS, breddostacos.com tenthousandwaves.com
Halibut with Spicy WHITE BUFFALO BAR Gage Hotel, 102 NW First St. Hwy.
Sausage, Tomatoes, CONDIMENTS BRICK LANE Shoreditch; visitbricklane.org
CHICK N SOURS 390 Kingsland Rd.; 90W, Marathon, TX; 432-386-4205; gagehotel.com
and Rosemary p. 144 Cocoa-Nut Energy +44-20-3620-8728; chicknsours.co.uk TECHNICOLOR TAIWAN pp. 124133
Stout-Steamed Bites p. 74 CORAZN 29 Poland St.; +44-20-3813-1430; WIN SON 159 Graham Ave., Brooklyn;
Shellfish with Kelp Green Sauce p. 76 corazonlondon.co.uk
EL PASTR 6-7A Stoney St.; tacoselpastor.co.uk
347-457-6010; winsonbrooklyn.com
and Charred Onions Mole Coloradito WHERE THE FOREST MEETS THE SEA pp.134145
p. 144 HOPPERS 49 Frith St.; hopperslondon.com
p. 118 KRICKET 49 Brixton Station Rd.; kricket.co.uk WOLF IN THE FOG 150 Fourth St., Tofino, British Columbia;
Whole Grilled Salmon PADELLA 6 Southwark St.; padella.co 1-250-725-9653; wolfinthefog.com
with Chanterelles Three-Chile Harissa
p. 62
SALVATION IN NOODLES For locations, go to KFC pp. 146155
p. 144 salvationinnoodles.co.uk BBQ For locations, go to bbqchicken.com.my
MEAT Toasted Chile de rbol SMOKESTAK 35 Sclater St.; +44-20-3873-1733;
BONCHON For locations, go to bonchon.com
and Tomatillo Salsa smokestak.co.uk
Flys Head p. 126 SOM SAA 43A Commercial St.; +44-20-7324-7790; BUAMDONG CHICKEN CENTER 274-1 Buam-dong,
Lamb Noodles with p. 118 somsaa.com Jongno-gu, Seoul; +82-2-395-7022
Crunchy Vegetables STREET FEAST DINERAMA 19 Great Eastern St.; DOOL DOOL 1280 Guro-dong, Guro-gu, Hanshin Sangga,
DESSERTS streetfeast.com Seoul; +82-2-855-2272
and Cilantro p. 132 Lemon Curd with TT EATERY 258 Kingsland Rd.; GEOSUNG For locations, go to geosungchicken.com
Red Posole with Pork Berries p. 145 +44-20-7254-4945; tataeatery.co.uk HANCHU 549-9 Gangnam-gu, Sinsa-dong, Seoul;
p. 119 TEMPER 25 Broadwick St.; +44-20-3879-3834; +82-2-3446-5778
Soy SauceMarinated Rhubarb Compote temperrestaurant.com
p. 88 WAHACA For locations, go to wahaca.co.uk KYOCHON For locations, go to kyochon.com
Short Ribs p. 18 MUKJEON 645-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul;
Salted Spicy Peanut OAXACA TIME pp. 112119
The Tostada That CABUCHE Hidalgo 1017, Oaxaca; +52-951-514-1672 +82-2-548-1461
Wants to Be a Brittle with Ice Cream CASA OAXACA Garca Vigil 407, Centro Histrico, NENE CHICKEN For locations, go to nenechicken.com
Memela p. 118 p. 133 Oaxaca; +52-951-514-4173; casaoaxaca.com.mx NONSENSE CHICKEN 38-1 Hoenamu-ro,
Win Sons Lu Rou Fan Slow-Roasted CRIOLLO Calzada Madero 129, Centro, Oaxaca; Yongsan-gu, Seoul; +82-2-790-7737
p. 132 Rhubarb p. 88 +52-951-351-1908 OKSANG DALBIT 411-2 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-guy, Seoul;
EL DIABLO Y LA SANDA Libres No. 205 Col. Centro C.P. +82-2-3143-4785
6800, Oaxaca; +52-9515144095; eldiabloylasandia.com
ITANON Belisario Domnguez 513, Oaxaca; SAI CHICKEN 257-3 Buam-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul;
FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS +52-951-513-9223 +82-2-395-4242
ISSUE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/RECIPES LA BIZNAGA Gral. Manuel Garca Vigil 512, Oaxaca; YOOK HAE ROMANCE CHICKEN 1304-4 Seocho-dong,
+52-951-516-1800 Seocho-gu, Seoul; +82-2-533-8891

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1 6 0 M A Y 2 0 17
 T H E L AS T B I T E

Channing Tatum
Whats your airplane
drink?
TEENY
P L AS T I C C U P
NOT
SHOWN...

THE VITALS

Hometown
Cullman, AL
Gig before
making it big
Stripper
Most famous
film role
Stripper
Food nickname
for his wife
Cake
Drinks he could
do without
Limoncello,
grappa, and gin

Channing Tatum has one of the greatest natural gifts Grand Teton Distillery, an operation that prides itself on its use
ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON

on earth: a good sense of timing, be it in comedy, dancing of Idaho potatoes, mountain water, and a distinctly American
or boozing. He always knows how to pick the right drink, no mat- flavor. Which is to say, smooth. So smooth, in fact, that Tatum
ter the situation. On airplanes, it depends on the length of the flight. doesnt think itd go over well in the Kremlin. I havent talked to a lot
If Im going to Europe, Ill usually have wine with food, mainly red, of Russians about this, he says, but I have gotten pretty good feed-
he says. If its a short flight, good old faithful Jack Daniels. Back back, and I dont think they would like our vodka. They think vodka
on land, theres a decent chance hes drinking vodka, specifically his should burn. Not that hes overly concerned: They probably wouldnt
vodka. Tatum recently partnered on a new line, Born and Bred, with appreciate Step Up 2, either. M A G G I E L A N G E

1 6 2 M A Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY TO M S C H I E R L I T Z