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BRUCE WEBER
CHANEL
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1 0 3 M O U N T S T R E ET L O N D O N
Zip Antique Ludo necklace
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2EGULARS
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Vogues editorial staff, 2017
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See what were up to on Instagram
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Autumn jackets and top-handle bags
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Manolo Blahnik thrives on Russian
culture and Sicilian antiquities
)N 6OGUE
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People, places, ideas and trends
to watch now. Edited by Julia Hobbs
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Marabou is more than just a flight
of fancy, says Ellie Pithers
6OGUE 3HOPS
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Relaxed tailoring that makes the cut
6IEW
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Glam rockers HMLTD are putting
the art into pop. By Olivia Marks
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Find your design inspiration written h! ONE
WORD GUIDE
in the stars, urges Hayley Maitland TO INDIGO DENIM
193 JKI@E>K?<FIP JACKETS TAILORED
The stories unlocked in Joan Didions #ALVIN +LEIN
notebooks. By Tracy Daugherty LEADS THE WAYv
198 MF>L<K8C<EK:FEK<JK)'(. SLOW WEST, PAGE 268
This years winning entry
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inside70(6& When it comes
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WOMENS REALM a devil-may-
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RUN WILD,
PAGE 302
Features
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A Vogue portfolio of high-achieving
women past and present, from the
Royal Ballet to Downing Street
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Trends that dened the last 25 years
332 8D<I@:8E>I8==@K@
Charting the irresistible rise of Eighties
art iconoclast Jean-Michel Basquiat, by
his friends, lovers and collectors
338 :C8JJF=0)
Designers look back to remember a
pivotal year in fashion. By Sarah Harris
Fashion
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How this months cover girls found
their natural habitat in Vogue.
Portraits by Mario Testino Beauty
254 J?<N?F;8I<J 345 K?<E<NJLG<INFD<E
Tap into the rhythm of the night in Make-up marvels that pack a punch
shimmering sequins and risqu vinyl.
351 ?FLJ<GF@EKJ
Photographs by Nick Knight
Fragrances of note. By Nicola Moulton
268 JCFNN<JK
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Ranch-ready Americana feels
Skincare is taking a disruptive
right at home on the range.
approach, says Nicola Moulton
Photographs by Alasdair McLellan
354 9<8LKP9@K<J
302 ILEN@C;
Scented shampoo and a sonic zapper
Roam free in a punky mix of clashing
prints. Photographs by Mario Testino 357 D8>@:N8E;J
Set eyes a-utter with a bold lash
316 K8B<K?<8KI8@E
of colour this season
Make the transfer to autumn in the new THE NEW
downtown lines. Plus, Lisa Armstrong SUPERWOMEN 359 =<<CK?<9LIEFLK
heralds the return of wearable fashion. GX^\*+, Are relentless wellness trends wearing
Photographed by Glen Luchford us down? Lottie Winter thinks so
4HE PARTY LINE
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AND +YLIE -INOGUE
AT A Vogue CHARITY
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-ANOR *UNE
with dresses from Ungaro, Lacroix, Balmain Vogue has never resonated with so many people
and Yves Saint Laurent (none of whom now via these different channels, I have also been
shows at couture) along with Dior, Chanel and responsible for nding new ways to keep the
Valentino (who still do). The features included title relevant, reach new audiences and create
an interview with Brad Pitt, still a relatively new interest hence my launching the Vogue
up-and-coming actor, with brooding portraits Festival ve years ago, helping to mastermind
by Bruce Weber, an article on the disturbing last years National Portrait Gallery exhibition,
side-effects of aspirin, and some fashion Vogue 100: A Century of Style, keeping a watch >
&%*5034LETTER
-ARIO 4ESTINOS
FASHION SHOOT ON
3ANTORINI FOR Vogue tenure, but when I arrived he had never
*ANUARY AND shot a major fashion story for the
below, AN EARLY 4IM
7ALKER PORTRAIT IN magazine. We were the rst Vogue to
3EPTEMBER commission Tim Walker, who has
!LEXANDRA 3HULMAN
WITH THE $UCHESS OF
grown to be a key contributor over the
#AMBRIDGE AT THE past two decades, partnering with
Vogue 100 EXHIBITION our fashion editor Kate Phelan. More
-AY $OLCE AND
'ABBANA MEET FANS AT recently we have been working with a
THE 6OGUE younger generation of photographers
&ESTIVAL including Harley Weir, Tyrone Lebon,
Right YEARS IN
FASHION PAGE Jamie Hawkesworth and Colin
on a publishing programme of Vogue books, Dodgson, whose methods and less stylised
chairing the British Fashion Council/Vogue vision hark back to the generation of grunge
Designer Fashion Fund which has supported photographers such as Corinne Day and
eight years of new fashion talent, and Juergen Teller whom I commissioned back in
imagining all manner of other events which, the early Nineties when I arrived.
sadly, I wont now be there to see through. But for me, the real excitement, the real
More work, for sure, but endlessly fascinating. fascination has been in working alongside the
The world today has smartphones and Vogue team to come up with ideas and to make
tablets, e-commerce and Google Maps. We them happen. There is nothing more thrilling
also live with the challenges of Isis, Al-Qaeda than thinking of something whether that
and the reinvigorated popularity of be a shoot, an interview, a social-observation
right-wing extremism and, in this feature or a themed issue that you want to
country, the impending reality of life share with your readers, and watching it come
after Brexit. News, whether current together and then nally appear bound in a
affairs or fashion, is no longer broken luscious package. I have loved all the detail,
in print but arrives via a ping on a the stuff of the magazine the headlines,
screen, day and night. The globe is the picture research, the story you can tell in
a much smaller place, with travel a picture and caption. And now the ability to
accessible to many more through break news 24 hours a day, to offer a daily
more affordable pricing and commentary and engage with an enormous
initiatives such as Airbnb. And audience via social media has only added to
fashion has become an enormous the fascination. For example, in this issue I am
global business, with international particularly delighted to be able to feature the
designer stores placed like territorial Metropolitan Police commissioner, Cressida
ags in expensive shopping streets Dick (page 282), who as I write has found
across the world, and a fast, cheap fashion herself dealing with the terrible events at
industry offering everyone the ability to buy London Bridge and Borough Market and the
into the current trends as they happen. In 1992 aftermath of the horrendous Grenfell Tower
there was no Zara, Cos or Nike on the British FI e. And, in the kind of story Vogue can do so
high street. Dolce & Gabbana, Chlo, Bottega well, our features assistant, Hayley Maitland,
Veneta, Miu Miu and Prada were only available has contributed a rst-class research job of
via department stores, if at all, and of course collecting an array of oral reminiscences that
most of the current generation of British fashion bring the late New York artist Jean-Michel
talent were either not yet born or were still Basquiat almost back to life (page 332).
testing out their drawing skills in kindergarten. Its impossible to acknowledge everyone
Editing British Vogue has been the greatest who made my years at Vogue so rewarding,
of privileges and has meant that I have spent but Lucinda Chambers, my fashion director
most of my days working alongside some of for 24 years, and Frances Bentley, my
the nest creative talent around. One of the managing editor, who kept the whole ofce
reasons the magazine has ourished for so long on the road for an equal amount of time, have
is that we have always kept our magpie eye on won my eternal thanks. But there are so many
new talent, and it is a matter of particular pride others here who have made my job more
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that we have had such wonderful partnerships enjoyable and the results more interesting
with such a range of photographers. Mario than they would have been without them.
Testino, the photographer of this months Now its time for myself and Vogue to start
cover and two stories in this issue, has probably on new journeys. Im very excited to see
shot the largest number of pages during my where we both go.
&%*5034LETTER
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B RU C E W E B E R
203 4505 803 | S H O P V E R SAC E . C O M
Billboard artwork: Andy Warhol, Elvis 11 Times (Studio Type), 1963 The Andy Warhol Foundation / ARS, photographed at The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh
CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC Fall 2017: photographed May 2017, Mojave Desert, California
calvinklein.com
Billboard artwork: Andy Warhol, Elvis 11 Times (Studio Type), 1963 The Andy Warhol Foundation / ARS, photographed at The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh
CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC Fall 2017: photographed May 2017, Mojave Desert, California
marni.com
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To mark Alexandra Shulmans nal issue as editor-in-chief, the
magazines team assembled for a group portrait on the roof of Vogue House
1 2 4
16 3 5 6 7 9 10 11 15
12 13 14
8)048)O
17 18 20
8 29
31
21 23 24 25 26 28 34
Ellie Pithers, fashion features editor. Anna
19 22 27 30 33
Blomeeld, sub-editor. Victoria Willan, senior 32
sub-editor. Clare Murray, chief sub-editor. 40 45
43
Helen Bain, acting chief sub-editor. Emma 35 37 46
36 39 41 42 44 47 49
Hughes, sub-editor. Hayley Maitland, features 38
assistant. Camilla Fitz-Patrick, editorial 48
business manager. Naomi Pike, Miss Vogue
editor and social media manager. Michael 50 51 52 53 54
Trow, picture editor. Jane Hassanali, 55
art editor. Helen Hibbird, merchandise
editor. Scarlett Conlon, Vogue Daily editor.
Rachel Edwards, engagement manager.
Carol Woolton, jewellery editor. Philip
Jackson, junior designer. Katie Dufort,
fashion assistant. Parveen Narowalia, beauty and health editor. Katie Berrington, Alexandra Shulman, editor-in-chief.
digital content producer. Eilidh Williamson, Vogue.co.uk arts and lifestyle editor. Araminta Frances Bentley, managing editor. Jaime
designer. Nicole Mowbray, features editor. Markes, acting fashion bookings editor. Perlman, creative director. Sarah Harris,
Susie Rushton, features editor. Olivia Nicola Moulton, beauty and health director. fashion features director. Emily Shefeld,
Marks, commissioning editor. Elizabeth Beatriz de Cossio, fashion assistant. deputy editor. Kate Phelan, senior
White, editorial coordinator. Florence Cai Lunn, associate picture editor. Sacha contributing fashion editor. Verity Parker,
Arnold, senior fashion assistant. Katie Lowe, Forbes, special events editor. Julia Brenard, fashion editor. Naomi Smart, shopping editor.
fashion bookings assistant. Sam Rogers, acting sittings editor. Julia Hobbs, fashion Alastair Nicol, digital picture editor. Brooke
acting Vogue.co.uk editor. Pom Ogilvy, news editor. Lottie Winter, beauty assistant. Mace, senior picture researcher. Lauren
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fashion coordinator. Charlotte Pearson, Lauren Murdoch-Smith, deputy beauty and Dudley, junior digital picture editor.
personal assistant to the editor. Ben Evans, health editor. Fiona Golfar, editor-at-large. Serena Hood, executive fashion director.
art coordinator. Lisa Niven, Vogue.co.uk Lucinda Chambers, fashion director. Phil Buckingham, art director
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