BON APP TIT VOLUME 62 NUMBER 6

july
COOK LIKE A PRO

F E AT U R E S

55 78
COOK LIKE A IN THE RAW
PRO: SUMMER Crudo seems like
EDITION such a restaurant
We asked 13 chefs thing. But with fresh
for their tricks and fish and a sharp
techniques for the blade, you can
kind of food we want impress guests in
to make when its your own home.
90 degrees outside. BY ALISON ROMAN
From grilled squid to
a fruit salad you can 84
eat for dinner, heres DESERT DAYS
how to stay cool. Picture this: the
golden sun dipping
70 behind Joshua Trees
THE GREAT rock formations,
BRITISH DAY OFF a wooden deck in
Christine Muhlke the desert beside
gets lost in Englands a shimmering pool,
Cornwall in search and plates filled with
of wild blackberries, charred carrots and
fresh-caught crabs, chile-rubbed chicken.
and scones with Thats what its like
local clotted cream. when Jay and Alison
(Worth it) Carroll host all day.
BY CARLA LALLI MUSIC

ON THE COVER
Creamy Hummus with
Cumin (for recipe, see
page 58). Photograph
by Michael Graydon
+ Nikole Herriott.
Food styling by
Susie Theodorou.
Prop styling by
Kalen Kaminski.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT

ROLL YOUR
OWN (FLOUR
TORTILLAS).

P. 61

4 J U L Y 2 0 17
 BONAPPETIT.COM

july
COOK LIKE A PRO

S TA RT E R S BA KITCHEN C O LU M N S

17 29 12
ITS HOT SUMMER R.S.V.P.
OUT THERE SPECIAL Reader requests
Cocktails with layers The ultimate sandwich and tender thick-
of flavorBlankets, involves homemade cut pork chops.
chairs, and bags cookies and store -
for your next beach bought ice cream. 46
dayA second BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ CITY GUIDES:
fridge just for beer HEALTHYISH NYC
Seafood towers 34 Why stick to pizza
that stack up HEALTHYISH and pretzels when you
An unintimidating Theres a world can try wheatgrass
guide to buying of miso beyond margaritas and
wineand more. soybeans. lavender-cured-
BY AMIEL STANEK salmon toast?
LOOKING
YesNew York has
AND FEELING 36 officially hopped on
GOOD, NYC. DINNER the eat-good, feel-
P. 4 6 TONIGHT good bandwagon.
For Brian Ng, chef BY MOLLY YOUNG
at L.A.s Southeast
Asianinspired 50
restaurant Cassia, NOTES FROM MY
cooking at home TEST KITCHEN
means steak with Not your grandmas
watercress salad and pasta salad.
larb-y ground pork BY YOTAM OT TOLENGHI
with lots of herbs.
97
PREP SCHOOL
Soak your saffron,
shuck your scallops,
and more.
108
LAST BITE
Scarlett Johansson
likes her popcorn
gourmet and
her Coke cherry.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

BY DAVID WALTERS

IN EVERY ISSUE
10 editors letter
106 recipe index
106 sourcebook

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
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ESSENTIAL?
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BRANCH OFFICES
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Contributors BROOKS HEADLEY, REBECCA JURKEVICH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI,

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WINE WITH A SCREW
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ENOUGH FOR THE ANNA WINTOUR
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8 J U L Y 2 0 17
editors letter
For the full recipe, visit bonappetit.com/fennelsalad
C H E F S S A L A D
Before you cook like a pro, youve got to think like one.
I realized this a few weeks ago when I visited Ignacio Mattos in
his kitchen at Caf Altro Paradiso on Manhattans west side. Mat-
tos is a subtle, soft-spoken guy. The better you get to know him,
the more he reveals. I guess you could say the same is true about
his foodit appears simple, almost minimalist. But with each
bite, it grows more complex, more rewarding.
He had agreed to teach me how to compose his fennel salad.
Thats the first lesson I learnedyou and I toss a salad, Mattos
composes a salad. He considers each ingredient, giving one a
drizzle of oil, another a dash of sea salt or a sprinkle of lemon or
orange zest (yes, he grates two types of zest).
Every ingredient has its own texture or density, Mattos
explained. Butter lettuce, for instance, is different from esca-
role. If you tossed them together, the butter lettuce would wilt.
With that, a light bulb went off in my head. A few nights earlier
at home, I made what I thought was going to be an excellent
salad: butter lettuce, shaved radish, toasted pepitas, and cubed
avocados. I tossed it all together with a shallot vinaigrette and
it turned into a gloppy mess. The tumbled avocado resembled
guacamole, the lettuce wilted, and the nutty seeds got lost.
For his fennel salad, a staple on the Altro Paradiso menu,
Mattos started by breaking up a handful of Castelvetrano olives.
He added some minced fennel fronds and sliced stems, then a
squirt of Chardonnay vinegar (chefs love those plastic squirt
bottles) and a hit of olive oil. He flicked an orange over a Micro-
plane, the zest fluttering down, then tossed the mixture with
a dash of crushed red pepper flakes and a pinch of pebbly gray
1 0 J U L Y 2 0 17
Follow Adam
on Twitter and
Instagram at
@rapo4
sea salt. (You want the salt to pop with each bite, he told me.)
After spooning the olive mixture onto a plate, Mattos reached
for a plastic mandoline and shaved a big pile of fennel. He spiked
it with lemon juice, more gray salt, and lemon zest (the sweeter
orange zest plays better with the briny olives, he said).
And, oh yeah, for a welcome note of richness, he shaved some
provolone picante atop the olives before crowning it all with a
mountain of dressed fennel.
When I looked at the finished plate, all I saw was fennel. Pretty
meh. But then I started eating it. A bite of the bracing anise-
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA MURRAY. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
flavored vegetable gave way to buttery cheese, which eventually
yielded to those oil-slicked, orange zestdusted olives. Unlike
the salad I had made at home, no two bites were the same. With
each forkful, I tasted each individual ingredient.
I had never thought about composing a salad this waylayer
by layer, ingredient by ingredient, flavor by flavor. And to be
honest, there will be times on, say, a random Tuesday night,
when Ill still just toss together some greens in a bowl. But now I
know to add cubes of avocado (perhaps doused with lemon juice
and a shot of sea salt) after the lettuce is plated so they dont
break down too much. And maybe Ill sprinkle on the pepitas at
the table, their salty crunch adding a finishing pop to vinaigrette-
dressed greens.
Thats me thinking like a chef. The first step to cooking like one.
A DA M R A P O P O R T
Editor in Chief
r.s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
Email us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

DEAR BON APPTIT,

IVE NEVER HAD A MORE
PERFECT PORK CHOP THAN
THE GRILLED COUNTRY RIB
CHOP FROM THE DURHAM
IN NORTH CAROLINA.
IM DESPERATE TO KNOW
HOW THEY KEEP IT MOIST.
C H R I S DA N I E L S, A t la n t a

PORK CHOPS WITH RADISHES

AND CHARRED SCALLIONS
Rule for straightforward
4 S E RV I N G S
summer grilling: Pair rich, smoky charred
meats with crisp, acidic vegetables. This
helps refresh the palate between bites.

1 Tbsp. aniseed or fennel seeds S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill and an instant-read thermometer inserted
4 1"-thick bone-in pork chops or mortar and pestle into the thickest part registers 140,
(about 4 lb. total), patted dry 810 minutes. Transfer chops to a plate
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Toast aniseed in a dry small skillet over and let rest 10 minutes.
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes medium heat, tossing often, until fragrant, Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice,
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided; about 2 minutes. Let cool; coarsely grind anchovy, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium
plus more for grill in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. bowl to combine. Add radishes and
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Season pork chops all over with salt and parsley and toss to coat.
1 tsp. finely chopped rinsed pepper; sprinkle with aniseed and red Toss scallions on a rimmed baking
salt-packed anchovy fillet pepper flakes. Let sit at room temperature sheet with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil; season
3 radishes, trimmed, thinly 30 minutes. with salt and pepper. Grill scallions
sliced on a mandoline Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; directly on grate, turning once, until
cup parsley leaves with brush grate with oil. Grill chops, moving lightly charred, about 2 minutes. Transfer
tender stems around on grate to avoid flare-ups, scallions to a platter, set pork chops
2 bunches scallions, roots trimmed until deep golden brown on both sides on top, and scatter radish salad over.

Ask the Chef:

Chop Secret Meet: ANDREA REUSING , executive chef at The Durham Cooking for: 29 years
2011 winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast
If you think pork chops
always turn out tough Requesting extra-thick cutsat least an inchat the meat counter is a worthwhile
as shoe leather, its insurance policy against dry, leathery pork chops. The extra half inch or so allows
time to reconsider the you to really brown them on both sides without overcooking them. Letting the chops
weeknight-friendly rest (for at least ten minutes) redistributes the juices throughout so every bite is rich
protein. We called up and flavorful.
a pro for advice.

12 J U L Y 2 0 17 * S U B M I SS I O N S B E C O M E T H E P R O P E R T Y O F B O N A P P T I T.
r.s.v.p.
DEAR BON APPTIT, WE HAD DINNER AT SITKA &
SPRUCE DURING A RECENT VISIT TO SEATTLE, AND
THE SALMON NDUJA, SERVED WITH CARAWAY CRACKERS Put Andrew
AND CURRANTS, WAS RIDICULOUSLY DELICIOUS. Knowlton
to Work
D O N N A B A D G E R , S a n A n t onio
For our online
video series, weve
sent our deputy
editor to work around
SALMON NDUJA WITH Place salmon in a blender. Bring chiles, the clock at Waffle
PICKLED CURRANTS cream, butter, paprika, and kosher salt House, Chick-fil-A,
M A K E S A B O U T 1 C U P S Nduja is to a boil in a small saucepan over Caesars Palace,
and, most recently,
traditionally made with pork, but because medium-high heat, stirring to melt butter Franklin Barbecue in
salmon is a fatty fish, it works well too. (adjust heat if needed to keep mixture Austinthat one just
from boiling over). Immediately pour into scored a James Beard
1 7-oz. skinless salmon fillet, pin blender and blend on low speed to Award. So where
bones removed, finely chopped combine. Increase speed and blend until should he go next?
8 oil-packed Calabrian chiles mixture is thick and emulsified (it should
or 1 fresh Fresno chile, be smooth and spreadable). Transfer
finely chopped nduja to an airtight container; cover and Send him to
Au Cheval
cup heavy cream chill until set, 12 hours. in Chicago to
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, Meanwhile, place currants in a small grill up some
cut into pieces bowl. Bring vinegar to a simmer in burgers.
2 tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika a small saucepan and pour over currants; SEAN
M C ELHANY
2 tsp. kosher salt let sit until plumped, about 30 minutes.
cup dried currants Drain currants.
cup white wine vinegar Spread nduja onto crackers and
Caraway crackers, dill top with dill, chives, and pickled currants. Have Andrew
sprigs, and thinly sliced Sprinkle with sea salt. make curry paste
chives (for serving) D O A H E A D : Nduja can be made with a mortar
and pestle at
Flaky sea salt 2 days ahead. Keep chilled. Pok Pok in
Portland, OR.
Id love to see
how they make

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (PORK CHOPS, NDUJA); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PORTRAIT, BLENDER, LOGO).
their wings.
ERIC SMITH
THE CHEF SAYS
Dont let the cream-
and-butter mixture cool on
the stove before you add Bring him to
it to the blender. The mixture Jenis Splendid
needs to be very hot in order Ice Creams in
to emulsify into a creamy, Columbus, OH,
spreadable texture. to develop a new
LOGAN COX, flavor. He could
chef, Sitka & Spruce serve scoops out
of their German
Village shop.
JOE VARGO
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

It would be fun
to see Andrew
prep doughnuts
for Hole in
Asheville, NC.
I wonder how
hed deal with the
line of customers
out the door.
PAGE FORREST

14 J U L Y 2 0 17
 starters
HOW TO BUY WINE LIKE YOU KNOW WHAT YOURE DOING
THE MOST BALLER DISH ON ANY MENU
PACK BET TER FOR THE BEACH
THE COOLEST CANDY WEVE EVER SEEN

8 Ways
to Eat,
Drink, and
Sunbathe
This Month

1
Taste the
Rainbow
Admit it: Youve ordered
a particular dish purely for its
Instagram potential. (Us too.)
And though the prospect of likes
got us reaching for color-blocked
beverages, its not the aesthetics
that keep us coming back. You
can taste the different flavors
individually by sipping from the
top, then plunging the straw in
farther, explains Katipai
Richardson-Wilson, who serves Mango slushie
a cachaa sour with beet juice at with vanilla
her Brooklyn bar Dirty Precious. soft-serve
at Cheese &
And when you stir it together, Crack Snack
you get the cocktail equivalent of Shop in
the perfect bite. JUNO D E MELO Portland, OR.

P H OTO G R A P H BY J U L E S DAV I E S J U L Y 2 0 17 17
STARTERS

11

10

2 A Day
at the
7

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Sturdy, sensible, stylish.
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8 RAMONA
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Salcito delivers a
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thats actually cool.
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9 TROPICAL
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Who says you cant
take a palm tree
to the beach? $165;
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10 W O N D E R B O O M
A light waterproof
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PHOTOGRAPH BY VICTOR PRADO. PROP STYLING BY ASTRID CHASTKA.

Beach end to lugging. $70;

icemulecooler.com
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zigzagzurich.com NIKITA RICHARDSON

1 8 J U L Y 2 0 17
STARTERS

Lobster tails
with Asian
basil and
pistachio
butter

Sambal

3
cocktail
sauce
Oysters

In Praise of
the Second
Fridge
I grew up in an era when
any dad worth his partially
restored MG had an ancient
refrigerator filled only with
cans of Bud rattling away in
the garage. A cold 12-ouncer
was always near as he mowed
the lawn or overcooked
burgers on his Weber. And
while I like to think my
generations grilling game

5
has evolved, some traditions
are not to be improved upon.
So I jumped at the first chance Snow
I had to establish my own crab
beer fridge (though I do make claws
room for Prosecco, too).
Prawns with
Nothing says I am a grown Fresno chiles
adult whos ready to entertain and Vietnamese
like my well-stocked circa- hot sauce
1988 Westinghouse. Now I
never have to reach around Cheers
a juice pack or a rotisserie
chicken just to grab a frosty
beverage. And you shouldnt,
for Tiers
Look, we love seafood
either. SCOT T D E SIMON
towers as much as the next
Rock hotshot with an expense
account. But is it so wrong
Candy

4
to want something a little
Were going to more exciting than shucked
date ourselves shellfish? Meet the 2017 PHOTOGRAPHS: VICTOR PRADO (CANDY); JULIA DUQUETTE (SEAFOOD TOWER);
here, butwe miss version of the grand plateau, KATIE JUNE BURTON (BAKERY MURAL). ILLUSTRATION BY SAMRA AVDAGI.

mixtapes. For loaded with unconventional

anyone suffering choices like goose barnacles
from a similar case with Old Bay mayo (Little
of nostalgia, we Donkey in Cambridge),
suggest these pretty Worcestershire crab claws
custom hand- (Seaworthy in New
painted candy Orleans), and Vietnamese hot
cassettes from sauce prawns (Cassia in L.A.,
lingerie designer above). But one thing about
turned candymaker the brasserie classic will never
Maayan Zilberman change: the heads that turn
of Sweet Saba. when you order one. We get
Theyre best really excited when someone
enjoyed while orders a large tower, says
listening to Spotify, Cassias Bryant Ng. We look
of course. $40; into the dining room and just
sweetsaba.com know theyre professional
MERYL ROTHSTEIN eaters. ASHLEY MASON
 If These
Walls
6
Could Talk
Forget the friendly,
impeccably dressed
hostthe new way
Dutch to welcome people to
artists Haas a restaurant happens
& Hahns
mural makes before you even check
a nice in. Dynamic, colorful
backdrop.
murals are covering
restaurant wallsfrom
these sunny squares at
Miamis Zak the Baker
to the fierce tattooed
woman at Heres
Looking at You in L.A.
to the fire-engine red
lips outside Bodega
in San Francisco. Bold
food is finally getting
exteriors to match. A .M.

Not the Only Mural on the Block Miamis industrial Wynwood Ar ts Districthome of Zak the Baker has become a street-
art destination for tourists and locals alike. Sometimes people stop me in the street to ask where the Yoda painting is or the Bob
Marley one, says Zak Stern, the baker ys owner. People are looking for murals that theyve seen on other peoples feeds.
 7
UNFILTERED

A Real-Life Guide to Buying Wine

You mean theres a better way than picking a cute label at the right price point?
BY MARISSA A. ROSS

RULE 3 RULE 4
When I first started buying wine, I dreaded coming
off like an idiot. You know that feeling: You scan
the aisle for a familiar label, but then the shelves
Tell Them
Your Budget
Dont
close in and paranoia creeps up: The clerk, hes watching, I know, I know it Sweat
isnt he? He knows I know nothing about wine, doesnt
he?! You pretend to read a bottle, like you somehow just
feels icky. No one
likes talking about
Awards
learned French. The only thing you can decipher is the money, but you You know those
price, which is even scarier than asking for help. You grab Winner of Best
gotta do it. Most
the closest bottle and get the hell out of there. But not Pinot Grigio!
people buying wine
anymore! With these tips, youll walk into wine shops stickers? Ignore
are on a budget,
as confident as Hermione Granger with the right answer. them. Those
and not only is it
not weird to make competitions only
RULE 2 budget a part include big wineries
What are you of your buying rich enough to enter.
drinking? Since criteria, its And those 100-point
Learn wine-shop staffers absolutely essential. ratings? Dont put
How to are tasting wine all
day, the wine they
There are great
wines being made
any stock in them,
either. Its all
Ask for want to go home
and drink is usually
at all price points,
and by being
subjective, and just
because some
a Great pretty special. Not
special as in pricey
honest about what
you can spend,
random old dude
gave a wine a low
Bottle or rare, just that its
simply delicious.
youll find bottles rating doesnt mean
First, I let the that are both tasty you wouldnt give
shopkeeper know and affordable. it a 110.
what Im buying for Whats like?
because wine for a Youre not going to
backyard barbecue learn much if you

ADAPTED FROM WINE. ALL THE TIME BY MARISSA A. ROSS (PLUME). COPYRIGHT 2017. ILLUSTRATIONS BY SAMRA AVDAGI.
RULE 1 is not the same as drink the same thing
wines for a romantic all the time. Always
night in with ask for something

Find homemade lasagna.

Second, I ask these
questions:
thats like what you
love but from a
different producer.
a Good This shows you the
many variations a

Shop Whats new?

Buying something
thats new to the
wine can have by
region, fermentation,
and terroir.
store and new to you
Not a grocery store, not the chain with
means youre always
20 percent off Six or More Bottles Whats weird? RULE 5
learning. Its also
but a shop thats dedicated to selling Whatever bottle is
often fresh on the
wine (maybe beer and spirits, too).
Wine shops may seem intimidating,
staffs mind, so they
can tell you a lot
the most out-there,
never-knew-this- Summer Bonus:
but theyre generally filled with nice
people who love wine and love
about it.
was-possiblethats
a bottle for me.
Buy Seasonal!
talking about it. Employees can take a Weird may not be Just like you cant wait to see the brightest
30-second convo about how you want the adjective for strawberries or biggest heirloom tomatoes
a red to pair with skirt steak and turn it you, but find the hit the farmers market, you should be
into six rousing recommendations. types of descriptors excited about wineries summer releases.
Give a shop a few visits and try a low-octane, say, Amazing summery wines, including Italian
few bottles to get a sense of its style or refreshing Rosatos, California Pinot Gris, and Austrian
of wines and customer that you like, and pt-nats, are on wine-shop shelves right
service until you find explore them as now. And it all comes back to that question
a place that suits you. often as possible. we talked about in Rule 2: Whats new?

R E A D T H I S , D R I N K M O R E Want to learn more about buying, drinking, and talking wine without dying of
boredom? Check out Rosss smart, funny, and informative new book, Wine. All the Time, from which this is excerpted.

2 2 J U L Y 2 0 17
 STARTERS
You lived in Pakistan until
you were 18. What did you
8
eat growing up? My mother
would always cookshe and my
grandmother are the best cooks
Ive ever encountered in my life.
What were some highlights?
Honestly, it was great every
day. We would have dal and
some kind of chicken or goat
Q curry, or if it was a celebration
12 &
A
wed have biryani, which is
still my favorite dish ever. Im
Questions getting hungry talking to you.
for Kumail What was the transition
Nanjiani like when you moved to
Iowa for college? I was really,
The star of The really homesick for many
Big Sick on biryani, reasons. Food was one of them.
tacos, and his
Cronut problem
For more
from Nanjiani,
download
episode 117
of the BA
Foodcast on
iTunes.
2 4 J U L Y 2 0 17
What I missed the most was the
spice. Eating food here in
the beginning felt really bland.
Especially because it was
cafeteria food that had to make,
like, 2,000 people happy.
Did you ever learn to cook
from your mother? Through
my 20s I was cooking quite a
bit. You can get these packets of
spice mix here to make Pakistani
and Indian food. The company
is called Shan. Theyre huge
in Pakistan, too. It saves you
from having to go get turmeric
and all that stuff.
What do you eat on the set
of Silicon Valley? Oh, its a
struggle every day to stay away
from the catering. The problem is
the morning, when theres a huge
case of doughnuts and Cronuts.
The Cronuts are knockoffs, but
I think theyre so good.
If you eat them in quarters,
theyre fewer calories. I tried
that. And after lunch they usually
put out a lot of candy. Thats a
whole other struggle. All
morning is spent trying to defeat
Cronuts, then all afternoon is
spent trying to defeat Hersheys.
How do you stay away?
[Costar] Zach Woods and I try
to keep each other honest. We
use the word chubby. We say,
PHOTOGRAPH BY JAY L. CLENDENIN/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES. FOR MORE INFORMATION, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Are we gonna chubby today?
Speaking of being on set,
you and your wife wrote
a new movie, The Big Sick.
Its based on our first year
of dating. Some details have
been changed, but I like to
say its poetically true.
Do you guys cook at home?
We dont cook as much as
we used to. But weve started
baking a lot because we got
really into The Great British
Bake Off. We bought one of
Mary Berrys books.
What are some triumphs?
We made sticky toffee pudding
that was pretty darn great.
If you dont cook, what do
you do for dinner? L.A. has
amazing Mexican food, so we
eat a lot of tacos and burritos.
Youll chubby up if you eat
too many of those. I know.
INTERVIEW BY ADAM RAPOPORT
kitchen
RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS

Play
It Cool
ones) that hit that
sweet spot in
between, magically
softening as they
EATING AN ICE chill. And yes, its
cream sandwich key that you freeze
can make you feel your ice cream
like a kid again. sandwiches after
But if youve ever assembling; you
tried making one cant just devour
at home, you know them. As for the
its not as easy as ice cream? Thats
1-2-3. First, there easy. Just choose
are the cookies your favorite store-
themselves. Too bought flavors.
thick, and you cant Then clear some
bite through them. freezer space
Too thin, and they and get ready to
crumble. You need travel back in time.
cookies (like these Nostalgia never
lacy oatmeal tasted so good.
or salty chocolate CLAIRE SAFFITZ

J U L Y 2 0 17 2 9
 1 4

k
SUMMER
SPECIAL
ice cream
sandwiches

Oatmeal
Cookie
Sandwiches
M A K E S A B O U T 12 3

cup (1 sticks)
unsalted butter
1 oz. store-bought waffle 5 6
cones, lightly crushed
1 cups old-fashioned oats
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. kosher salt
cup (packed) light
brown sugar
1 large egg yolk
2 tsp. vanilla extract Use one flavor (like pistachio)
or mix it up: Each pint will
4 pints ice cream yield enough ice cream for
(any flavors) three sandwiches.

MAKE THE COOKIES
Preheat oven to 350. Cook
butter in a medium saucepan
over medium heat, swirling often,
until it foams, then browns,
58 minutes. Scrape brown butter
and toasty solids into a heatproof
measuring glass and let cool.
Process waffle cones, oats,
flour, and salt in a food processor
in long pulses until oats are
broken up and cones are finely
ground. Add brown sugar and
pulse to combine. Whisk egg
yolk, vanilla, and 2 Tbsp. water
in a small bowl. With the motor
running, slowly drizzle into food
processor, then stream in brown
butter; process until dough
forms a ball around the blade.
Portion out slightly rounded
tablespoonfuls of dough to make
26 balls (each should weigh
about oz.). Roll balls between
your palms to smooth and divide
between 2 parchment-lined
rimmed baking sheets, spacing
3" apart (the cookies will spread
as they bake). Cover with another
sheet of parchment paper and
use the bottom of a glass to
flatten each into a 2" round.
Bake cookies, rotating sheets
front to back and top to bottom
halfway through, until golden
all over and browned around the
edges, 1215 minutes. Let cool
on baking sheets; use a thin metal
spatula to loosen cookies from
parchment. Turn half of cookies
over (youll have 2 extra).
P R E PA R E I C E C R E A M
Remove 2 pints of ice cream
(same flavor) from containers
(just peel away container if its
paper, or use a rubber spatula
to help slide ice cream out intact
if container is plastic) [1]. Cut
ice cream into 2" pieces [2] and
place in a large bowl. Let sit until
slightly softened, about 5 minutes,
then stir with a wooden spoon or
a large rubber spatula until the
consistency of thick cake batter [3].
A S S E M B LY
Using a 4 oz. ice cream scoop [4]
or -cup measuring cup, and
working one at a time or in small
batches, scoop out large domes
of ice cream onto upside-down
cookies [5]. Top each with a right-
side-up cookie, then press down
gently until ice cream extends to
the edges [6]. Transfer sandwiches
to a rimmed baking sheet set in
the freezer as you work. Repeat
softening process with remaining
2 pints of ice cream and assemble
remaining sandwiches.
Freeze sandwiches until ice
cream is hard, about 2 hours.
Cover tray with plastic wrap and
freeze at least another 8 hours
to let cookies soften.
D O A H E A D : Cookies can
be baked 1 week ahead; transfer
to a resealable plastic freezer
bag and freeze. Sandwiches can
be assembled 5 days ahead;
keep frozen.

Resist the urge to dig in immediately after assembling the sandwiches.

At least ten hours in the freezer softens the cookies and sets the ice cream
so you can get the perfect bite.
3 0 J U L Y 2 0 17
 k
SUMMER MAKE THE COOKIES
SPECIAL
Whisk cocoa powder, salt,
ice cream baking powder, and 2 cups
sandwiches
flour in a medium bowl. Using an
electric mixer on medium-high
speed, beat butter, brown sugar,
and granulated sugar in a large
bowl until light and fluffy, about
4 minutes. Reduce mixer speed
to medium and add eggs and
vanilla; beat until very fluffy,
Chocolate about 30 seconds. Reduce speed
to low and gradually add dry
Cookie ingredients, beating just until
combined (use a large spatula to
Sandwiches incorporate any dry ingredients
at the bottom of the bowl). Divide
M A K E S A B O U T 15
dough in half and wrap each
cup unsweetened in plastic, pressing down to form
cocoa powder, sifted into "-thick disks. Chill until
1 tsp. kosher salt firm, at least 2 hours.
1 tsp. baking powder Preheat oven to 350.
Let 1 disk of dough sit at room
2 cups all-purpose flour, temperature until softened
plus more for dusting slightly, about 5 minutes. Roll
1 cup (2 sticks)
out on a lightly floured piece of
unsalted butter, room parchment paper into a large
temperature "-thick rectangle (about
1 cup (packed) light 16x12"), dusting with more flour
as needed. Use a knife and a
brown sugar
ruler (precision is key) to cut into
cup granulated sugar 4x1" rectangles, then use
2 large eggs,
a thin metal spatula to transfer
room temperature rectangles to a parchment-lined
2 tsp. vanilla extract baking sheet, spacing 1" apart.
2 pints ice cream (If at any point the dough
(any flavor) becomes too soft and sticky, slide
dough with parchment onto a
2 pints ice cream baking sheet and chill until firm.)
(any other flavor)
Chill dough on baking sheet
while you repeat the process with
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A ruler the second disk of dough. You
1 2
4 5
3 2 J U L Y 2 0 17
should end up with 30 cookies
total. Save scraps for another use
or discard. Prick cookies in
several places with a fork. Bake,
rotating baking sheets front to
back and top to bottom halfway
through, until edges are firm,
1215 minutes. Let cool on baking
sheets. Turn half of cookies over.
P R E PA R E I C E C R E A M
Line a 13x9" baking pan,
preferably straight sided, with
2 layers of plastic wrap, leaving
several inches of overhang
on all sides [1]; place in freezer.
Remove both pints of first ice
cream flavor from containers
(just peel away container if its
paper, or use a rubber spatula
to help slide ice cream out intact
if container is plastic). Cut ice
cream into 2" pieces and place in
a large bowl. Let sit until slightly
softened, about 5 minutes, then
stir with a wooden spoon or
a large rubber spatula until the
consistency of thick cake batter.
Scrape ice cream into chilled
pan and smooth into an even
layer with a small off-set spatula
[2]. Freeze uncovered until firm,
1520 minutes.
Repeat softening process
with both pints of second flavor.
Scrape second flavor
over first layer and smooth out,
spreading ice cream all the way
to the edges and making top as
level as possible [3]. Cover with
plastic wrap and freeze until ice
cream is hard, at least 8 hours.
3 at least another 8 hours to let
6 7
Try these
sweet combos:
When selecting your
layers, you can
choose any flavor
you like as long as its
bona fide ice cream:
Gelato, frozen
yogurt, and sorbet
just dont firm up as
well. Pick two flavors
that will taste good
together and provide
some color contrast,
like these pairings:
Vanilla + Mango
Coffee + Coconut
Chocolate +
Salted Caramel
Pistachio + Cherry
A S S E M B LY
Remove ice cream from freezer,
unwrap, and invert onto a cutting
board [4]; remove pan and peel
off plastic. Trim sides of ice cream
block to make a neat, straight-
edged rectangle measuring
12x7" (yep, theres that ruler
again). Working quickly so ice
cream doesnt melt, cut block
lengthwise into 5 equal rows
and then crosswise into thirds so
you have 15 pieces measuring
about 4x1" [5].Working with
1 brick of ice cream at a time,
use a thin metal spatula to place
on a flat-side-up cookie [6] and
top with a right-side up cookie
[7]. Transfer sandwiches to
a rimmed baking sheet set in
the freezer as you work. Freeze
sandwiches until ice cream is
hard, about 2 hours. Cover tray
with plastic wrap and freeze
cookies soften.
D O A H E A D : Dough can be
made 2 days ahead; keep
chilled. Cookies can be baked
1 week ahead; transfer to
a resealable plastic bag and
freeze. Layered ice cream
can be made 1 week ahead;
keep frozen in pan. Sandwiches
can be assembled 5 days
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.
ahead; keep frozen.
k HEALTHYISH

Will It Miso?
Soybeans were just the
beginning. These days chefs and
artisans are crafting this flavor-

O
packed paste out of everything

IS
M
from chickpeas to azuki beans RR
O
FA
b y A M I E L S TA N E K

IM
L

A
BE
MISO S GOT IT ALL. AN
MI
The fermented soybean SO
paste is both magically
salty-sweet and packed
with good-for-the-gut
probiotics. Now that its
gone mainstream, artisans
around the country are
getting experimental. A
Using the traditional soy-
Z
U
KI

based process as a
BE

template, theyre crafting

AN

idiosyncratic batches from

MISO

chickpeas, farro, sweet

potatoes, and more.
We had customers
asking us to make a non-
soy miso because their
children were soy-allergic,
explains Earnest Migaki,
whose Portland, Oregon,
company, Jrinji, offers
chickpea and lima bean
based versions. But
these alternatives are also
delicious and versatile,
opening up a world of
possibilities for home
cooks. That might mean
rubbing pork chops with
savory farro miso or even
incorporating sunchoke
miso into a next-level
buttercream. Throw some
in whatever youre making H
C

rather than limiting yourself IC

K
PE
to soup, says White Rose A
MI
SO
Misos Isaiah Billington.

3 4 J U L Y 2 0 17
 K N O W YO U R M I S O

Farro Miso
The Maryland-based
duo behind White
Rose Miso ferments
local grains into this
deeply savory, super-
funky paste, which
they sell exclusively
to a select handful of
umami-obsessed
mid-Atlantic chefs.

Lima Bean Miso

The folks at Jrinji
claim this complex
paste is probably
the first lima miso
in the world, and
nobodys arguing.
Wed happily mix
this mild and sweet
miso one to one
with good butter
and schmear it
on grilled bread.
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

Azuki Bean Miso

This light, almost
fruity-tasting
variety is one of the
wood-fired types
made by the alt-miso
OGs at Conway,
MAbased South
River Miso; all are
available online at
southrivermiso.com.

Chickpea Miso
San Franciscos
Aedan Fermented
Foods produces this
mellow-tasting soy-
free miso, ideal for
whisking into a citrus
vinaigrette or a pot
of simple chicken-
and-vegetable soup.

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
k DINNER
TONIGHT

California
Dreaming
When L.A. chef Bryant Ng scores
a night off from Cassiahis
Southeast Asianleaning bistro
dinner at home is fresh, vibrant,
and, most important, easy

a medium skillet,
preferably cast iron,
over medium-high.
Cook reserved steak,
turning every couple
Steak with of minutes or so, until
Watercress outside is browned,
Salad 710 minutes for
Whisk 2 tsp. Chinese medium-rare. Add
hot or English 2 Tbsp. unsalted
mustard powder, butter and tilt skillet
2 tsp. fish sauce, toward you. Baste
tsp. demerara or steak with foaming
light brown sugar, butter about
and 1 Tbsp. very hot 1 minute. Transfer to
water in a medium a cutting board and
bowl until sugar is let rest 10 minutes
dissolved; season before slicing.
with salt and lots of Meanwhile, add
pepper. Add one 1 bunch watercress,
11-lb. boneless tough stems
rib eye or New York trimmed, 2 thinly
strip steak and turn sliced Persian
several times to coat. cucumbers, and
Whisk 1 thinly cup mint leaves
sliced red Thai chile, to reserved dressing
2 Tbsp. fresh lime and toss to combine;
Sinus-clearing
Chinese mustard, juice, 2 Tbsp. olive season with salt and
fier y chile, oil, and tsp. pepper. Top with
and pepper y demerara or light cup salted, dry-
watercress brown sugar in roasted peanuts,
play nice in this a large bowl; set lightly crushed, and
kicky salad.
dressing aside. drizzle with olive oil.
Heat 1 Tbsp. Serve steak with
vegetable oil in salad. 4 servings

3 6 J U L Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
k
DINNER HOW TO 1 2 3
TONIGHT MAKE Spoon over cooked Doctor up instant Serve with flour
IT A MEAL farro or bulgur and ramen: Skip the soup tortillas, cabbage,
seasonal veg for a packet and toss meat and hoisin for
satisfying grain bowl. with cooked noodles. mock-mu-shu pork.

So Grounded
A savory, larb-esque pork
mixture makes for the ultimate
all-purpose grain bowl topper

Garlic-Chile Ground Pork

4 S E RV I N G S

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

1 shallot, chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 dried chile (such as chile de rbol)
1 lb. ground pork
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
Pinch of sugar
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
Kosher salt

Heat oil in a medium skillet over

medium-high. Cook shallot, garlic,
and chile, stirring often, until shallot
is softened and translucent, about
4 minutes. Add pork and cook, stirring
occasionally, until almost cooked
through, about 3 minutes. Add fish
sauce, soy sauce, and sugar and cook,
stirring occasionally, until moisture in
skillet is evaporated, about 5 minutes.
Add broth, reduce heat, and simmer,
uncovered, stirring occasionally, until
liquid is evaporated, 1218 minutes.
Remove skillet from heat and mix
vinegar into pork mixture; taste and
season with salt if needed.
 k
DINNER
TONIGHT
Recipes dont need to be followed like
gospelthey should serve more as guidelines,
suggestions, and ingredient lists.
CHEF BRYANT NG

The Big Salad! cup vegetable oil, divided

Smoky bacon, crunchy shredded
lettuce, and an addictively zesty
dressingwhats not to like?
Shredded Chicken Salad
with Creamy Miso Dressing
4 S E RV I N G S
4 slices bacon
1 1" piece ginger, peeled,
cut into very thin matchsticks
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 Tbsp. tahini
1 Tbsp. white miso
2 tsp. fish sauce
tsp. toasted sesame oil
Pinch of sugar
4 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
1 large egg yolk
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 small rotisserie chicken,
skin removed, meat shredded
(about 4 cups)
1 head of green leaf lettuce, cut
crosswise into "-thick ribbons
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Toasted sesame seeds (for serving)
Cook bacon in a dry medium skillet over
medium heat, turning slices occasionally,
until brown and crisp, 58 minutes.
Transfer to paper towels; let cool.
Cook ginger in a small saucepan
of boiling water 1 minute. Drain ginger
and rinse under cold water; set aside.
Whisk soy sauce, tahini, miso, fish
sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and 2 Tbsp.
lemon juice in a small bowl until smooth.
Whisk egg yolk and remaining
2 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl to
combine. Very gradually stream in cup
vegetable oil (almost drop by drop),
whisking constantly until mayonnaise
is emulsified and thick. Still whisking
constantly, gradually add soy sauce
mixture, then remaining cup oil. Thin
dressing with a tablespoon or two of
water if needed; you want it to be the
consistency of heavy cream. Season
with salt and pepper.
Toss chicken and cup dressing in
a large bowl to coat. Add lettuce and
another cup dressing and toss again;
season with salt and pepper. Crumble
bacon over.
Transfer salad to a serving bowl or
platter and drizzle another tablespoon
or so of dressing over salad (you may
have some left over). Top with scallions,
sesame seeds, and reserved ginger.
D O A H E A D : Dressing can be made
1 day ahead. Cover and chill.

4 0 J U L Y 2 0 17
 k
DINNER WHY IT WORKSPOSSET
TONIGHT How do these tart custardsbased on a traditional English dessert called
possetset perfectly without the help of either eggs or gelatin? Lime juice
acidulates the cream, causing the proteins in it to bind. Because of the
dairys high fat content, they form a silky texture instead of lumpy curds.

Smooth Operator
Making these sweet-tart
wonders might be easier than
remembering to buy ice cream

Lime Posset with Lychees

4 S E RV I N G S

2 limes, zest removed in wide strips,

plus finely grated zest for serving
Pinch of kosher salt
cup plus 1 Tbsp. sugar
2 cups heavy cream, divided
cup fresh lime juice
1 15-oz. can lychees, drained

Bring wide strips of lime zest, salt, cup

sugar, and 2 cups cream to a boil in
a medium saucepan over medium-high
heat. Reduce heat and simmer, swirling
pan occasionally and being careful
not to let mixture boil over, until cream
is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in lime juice.
Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve
into a large measuring glass; divide
among 4 small glasses, bowls, or 8-oz.
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

ramekins. Chill until custards are no

longer warm, about 30 minutes, then
Caution: Sweet,
cover with plastic wrap and continue
floral canned to chill until set, at least 2 hours.
lychees may be Just before serving, whisk remaining
habit-forming. cup cream in a small bowl to soft
peaks; whisk in remaining 1 Tbsp. sugar.
Top each custard with dollops of
cream, a few lychees (you may have
a few left over), and some finely grated
lime zest.
D O A H E A D : Custards can be made
2 days ahead. Keep chilled.

4 2 J U L Y 2 0 17
 city guides
NYC

Abracadabra s
organic
meatball plate

Lighten Up, New York

Creamy beet-cacao cake for breakfast, the umami-est power bowl youve
ever had for lunch, and a sweet, charred chickpea burger for dinner
this cant possibly be New York City, can it? Heres where to join injust
make sure to get that feel-good tonic on the menu, too by MOLLY YOUNG
4 6 J U L Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 CITY GUIDES
health yish nyc
N E W YO R K E R S LOV E
EXTREMES. In no other city will
you find such peaks of kindness
and pits of rudeness. We bask
topless on rooftops in August
and slide down frozen subway
stairs in February. We eat
hot dogs on dirty streets and
take barre classes during lunch
hour. And because we value
efficiency as much as extremity,
we appreciate healthyish
restaurants that inject bits of
decadence into the menu.
Occasionally the two poles
even meet in the same item, like
the wheatgrass margarita at
Dimes. Flooding your system
with amino acids while getting
tipsy? Talk about multitasking.
4 8 J U L Y 2 0 17
1WHERE IT
A L L B E G A N
And by it, I mean the wave of
California-inspired eateries that
started dotting lower Manhattan
around 2014 and have since
migrated upward and outward
roughly in line with our capacity
for aa bowls carpet-bombed
in bee pollen. Dimes is now
a mini-empire of farmers market
wizardry, with a restaurant
(harissa salmon!), a boutique
(palo santo sticks!), and an
informal deli (supplies for the
most photogenic picnic on earth!).
The customer base is model-
and skateboarder-dense, with
your occasional Spike Jonze
sighting thrown in for good
measure. Be cool! Dont stare.
2THE NEW LOWER
EAST SIDE
In the wake of Dimes came three
new spots that push aesthetics
and asceticseven further. The
Good Sort elevates standard-
issue Instagram-friendly style
(neon signage, succulents, and
a comically handsome Australian
barista). And its congee menu is
short and sweet, with a turmeric-
cranberry one that puts oatmeal
to shame. Head north to
De Maria, and youll find that This page, clockwise from
culinary clichs have been top left: beet, turmeric, and
tweaked too. The avocado toast black sesame lattes at the
comes on focaccia with slices Good Sort; Modern Loves
vegan brownie and ice cream;
of lavender-cured salmon, and Stanley, pharmacist; the
little surprises pop up everywhere, Good Sorts beet-cacao cake;
from smoky Urfa pepper a macro bowl at Dimes
(on yogurt) to oozy guava jam
(alongside a cheese biscuit).
Then theres Lestudio, which
performs the featmore of 3A MODERN
a miracle in a room this small
of offering a space with zero A P O T H E C A RY
bad seats; youre either in a Stanley George is partying like
sunny nook or atop a rustic stool its 1908. Gone are the times
or nestled into a banquette. when people knew their
The food is cozy, with Brazilian pharmacist by name, says the
tints: Instead of a scone, get the (licensed) pharmacist and
cheesy gluten-free orb that is ebullient proprietor of Stanleys
po de queijo or chia pudding Pharmacy, a juice bar slash
with pineapple and coconut. tea counter slash medication
I NY
LifeThyme Natural Market is
I f Yo u C an
one of the few NYC health food
M ake I t H e re stores that has stuck around.
How have you done it?
Since 1995 LifeThyme
has been an incubator of Its cheeky, but we say, We
the newest natural foods. work hard to make it look easy.
So we asked manager We try to condition tastes in
Jason Bander whats next. a way thats gentle but effective.

dispensary open since 2013. For
culinary-minded visitors, theres
a posted menu of herb elixirs to
cure everything from PMS to brain
fog, but the smart move is to sit
back, tell Stanley your ills, and
watch him whirl together an
edible solution. Dull complexion?
A gingered concoction of fresh
juices and blue-green algae is the
answer. With his club-kid energy
and physical luminosity, Stanley
is his own best advertisement.
Youll have what hes having.
4THROWBACK
HIPPIE ZONES
The decor at the tiny Williamsburg
restaurant Abracadabra is pure
Berkeley co-op circa 1997yarn
Gods-eyes, mismatched chairs,
and a rack of alt-weeklies (which,
yes, still exist). And beyond the
tofu is an inventive array of
Turkish-inflected gems, like an
organic meatball plate with
What big shifts have you
recently seen?
People turning away from soy.
Soy-based burgers have been
supplanted by bean-based ones.
Soy-based ice creams once
dominated; now there are cashew
and coconut versions.
pickled cabbage and roasted
celery. Then theres Souen, across
the bridge in the East Village
which proves detoxing can be
fun! Thats the subtext of this caf,
which has been pushing brown
rice and sea vegetables since the
1970s. For those who like to dine
solo, its an inviting spot; half the
customers are always ruminating
with a book in front of them.
(A real paperback, not a Kindle.)
The carrot-ginger dressing is good
enough to throw back like a shot,
but be polite and use it to smother
a piece of organic salmon instead.
5THE BURGER JOINT
There is zero atmosphere and
about five coveted seats, which
can be the subject of intense low-
blood-sugar-induced quarreling,
but Brooks Headleys Superiority
Burger is that indefinable thing:
a scene. The music is loud, the
employees are on their game,
What changes are you
forecasting?
Development in healthy drinks
more adaptogenic, herbal-based
tisanes. And a lot more innovation
in the confectionery. Kids are
eating dark-chocolate peanut
butter cups these days.
This page, clockwise
from top left:
Team De Maria, its
neon Mar y, and
(beneath) avo toast
with lavender -cured
salmon; Springbone
Kitchens Chicken
Zoodle Soup and the
daytime scene there
and the food is like something
the worlds most talented drunk
person would throw together at
3 a.m. to sop up a bender: Think
griddled ribbons of yuba
smothered in cheesy non-cheese
sauce. The chickpea burgers
come drenched in special sauce,
providing dueling sensations of
wholesomeness and decadence.
Isnt that all anyone wants?
6ALL IN VEGAN
Chef Isa Chandra Moskowitzs
Modern Love Brooklyn is the
vegan version of the Cheesecake
Factory. Treats like warm cherry
cobbler with frizzled lemon peel
are gleefully, Americanly huge,
occupying a matrix thats best
described as ethical hedonism.
As with the Cheesecake Factory,
its not a place to go when youre
feeling abstemious. (On one
recent visit I ordered so many
desserts that the server asked if
I was stoned. I wasnt.)
7 PA L E O B U T
PLEASANT
Part take-out counter and part
minimarket, Springbone Kitchen
sells grass-fed ghee and collagen
peptides (with a cow-derived
Any specific foods youre
betting on over the next year?
Bean-based pastas were once
rare; now we see chickpea-based
pasta out of Italy and mung bean
pastas out of Asia. Lentil-, rice-,
and pea-flour pastas are starting
to explode here too.
See Sourcebook (page
106) to find addresses
and contact information for
all locations in this story.
protein purported to improve your
general glossiness.) But the bone
broth is the draw; choose chicken
or beef, both respectably gamy
and lip-coating. Add kimchi if
youre nasty. And if they have the
chili, get that. Its so beefy youll
grow a muscle just smelling it.
8FANCY TIME
At Jean-Georges Vongerichtens
new restaurant, abcV, its a
vision in pink, with pink salt in
pink trays, and servers in soft
shirts of (presumably organic)
cotton in sunset hues. Here, youll
find plates so richly scented
theyre less dishes than bouquets:
gems of fermented vegetables,
say, or thin-sliced kumquats under
a shower of earthy cacao nibs.
On a recent afternoon, Hugh
Jackman popped in for a bite.
I train at the same gym as Jean-
Georges, he explained, as
birdlike diners at communal tables
paid no mind. New Yorkers,
after all, have always been more
interested in food than fame.
What do you put on them?
Im traditional: Romano,
Pecorino, garlic and olive
oil, some capers.
And whats out?
Quinoa. Its already topping
off over here.
J U L Y 2 0 17 4 9
 N O T E S F R OM MY T E S T K I T C H E N

GIVE TOMATOES
A BURST
Slow-cooked cherry
tomatoes = little
jolts of sweetness.

PILE ON
THE HERBS CHAR YOUR VEG
Who needs diced A quick turn in a cast-
ham when you have iron skillet or on the
cups of refreshing grill adds depth to
basil and mint? peak-season produce.

summer on the side

Gingery tomatoes, grilled snap peas and
spring onions, heaps of fresh herbs: This is how
Yotam Ottolenghi makes pasta salad
5 0 J U L Y 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
N O T E S F R OM MY T E S T K I T C H E N

The term pasta salad can, frankly, make the heart sink. Images spring to T H E PAS TA A N D ASS E M B LY

t mind of bowtie noodles prepared hours before serving, thick with mayon-
naise, home to all sorts of unseasoned raw veg. This dish has been brought
along by one too many well-meaning guests, becoming a timeworn addi-
The shape of casarecce works particu-
larly well in a pasta salad: They look like
little curled-up rolls of parchment, and
tion to potlucks everywhere. That doesnt mean, however, that the flavor and look of their nooks and crannies are perfect for
each element cant be given its own little bit of attention (or that the whole thing needs vegetables, tomatoes, and herbs to tuck
to be bound together with mayo). Heres how I bring pasta salad into the 21st century. into. Any other noodle that can act as a
vessel to trap the onions and herbs works
well too: Think tubular-shaped penne,
shell-like conchiglie, twisted fusilli, or
T H E T O M AT O E S THE GREEN VEG wavy reginette.
Theres so much more to do with a cherry Grill marks look good on, well, every- Whatever you choose, keep in mind
tomato than just slice it in half. Roasting thing: white Halloumi slices, orange that pasta doesnt like to sit around for
tomatoes, for example, intensifies their squash wedges, yellow lemon slithers, too long once its cookedit dries out
impact. Although roasting them as they cauliflower florets, and so on. But char- and sticks together. So if you want to
are with just some olive oil and seasoning ring isnt just about the look; it gives a prepare the pasta in advance, either
can often be enough, why not ramp up smoky flavor to whatevers being grilled mix it with the roasted cherry tomatoes,
their flavor even further? Adding all sorts and, in the case of vegetables, caramel- whose moisture will prevent the noo-
of punchy aromatics, such as the orange izes and intensifies their natural sugars. dles from clumping, or drizzle it with a
zest and ginger in this recipe, turns these Some vegetables are fussy about little olive oil after its been drained. Let
cherry tomatoes into veritable little flavor being grilled: Cauliflower or broccoli, the mayonnaise sit and watch from the
bombs: bursts of sweetness that then for example, must be blanched before- safe distance of the coleslaw.
spread throughout the dish. hand. But with tender vegetables like
If you want to get ahead, these gin- sugar snap peas and spring onions, a
gery roasted tomatoes keep well in the blast of heatwhether in a cast-iron pan PA S T A
fridge for about three days, so feel free on the stove, a grill pan, or on the grill
to make double or triple the quantity outside if youve got it up and running Kosher salt
called for here. That way youll have a is all you need. 12 oz. casarecce, fusilli,
spare batch on hand ready to spoon As with the tomatoes, its always nice or penne pasta
alongside all sorts of things, from scram- to make a bit more than you need for
bled eggs to grilled meat and fish, or to this recipe. Leftovers work brilliantly Bring a large pot of boiling salted
pile on top of grilled bread thats been alongside any sort of eggs, tucked into a water to a boil and cook pasta, stirring
spread with ricotta. ham or cheese sandwich, or just piled occasionally, until very al dente. Drain
on top of toast, as they are, with a driz- well, then transfer to a rimmed baking
zle of tahini sauce. sheet to cool. (You want it to be room
GINGER TOMATOES temperature when you make the salad.)

9 garlic cloves, crushed CHARRED PEAS AND ONIONS

3 sprigs thyme
3 wide 2" strips orange zest
1 3" piece ginger, peeled,
cut into very thin matchsticks
4 cups cherry tomatoes
6 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
cup olive oil
1 Tbsp. light brown sugar
tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 325. Toss garlic,
3 large spring onions (about 8 oz.)
2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
8 oz. sugar snap peas, trimmed,
halved on a diagonal
Kosher salt
Remove spring onion stems from bulbs;
cut in half lengthwise, then crosswise
into 2" pieces. Cut bulbs through root end
into quarters. Heat a medium skillet,
preferably cast iron, over high and pour
PUT IT ALL TOGETHER
2 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice
2 cups thinly sliced basil, divided
2 cups thinly sliced mint, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Olive oil (for drizzling)
Add tomato mixture, sugar snap peas
and spring onions, lemon juice, 1 cups
basil, and 1 cups mint to bowl with
pasta and gently toss to evenly distribute
FOOD STYLING BY MONICA PERINI

thyme, orange zest, ginger, tomatoes,
orange juice, oil, brown sugar, salt, and
a pinch of pepper in a 13x9" baking
dish to combine. Roast, gently tossing
mixture every 20 minutes, until tomatoes
are tender and just bursting but still
intact, 5060 minutes. Pluck out and
discard thyme sprigs and orange zest.
in 1 Tbsp. oil. Cook peas in a single
layer, turning once, until charred, about
4 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in same
skillet. Cook spring onion stems and
bulbs in a single layer, turning once,
until charred, about 4 minutes. Transfer
to bowl with peas; season with salt.
all the ingredients (be careful, though
you dont want to break up the tomatoes
too much). Taste pasta salad and season
with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice
as desired.
To serve, top pasta salad with
remaining cup basil and cup mint
and drizzle with a little oil.

5 2 J U L Y 2 0 17
 BON APPTIT

Coo k L i ke a P ro S um m er E di t i o n Jul y 2017

55
Cook

Like
Isnt it hypnotic?
Turn the page to
see how were plating
hummus like
great restaurants do.

Pro
GUTTER

56
 THE RIPEST FRUIT, THE HOT TEST GRILLS,
THE CHILLEST DRINKS. SUMMERTIME COOKING REQUIRES
D I F F E R E N T I N S T I N C T S . S O W E A S K E D 13 C H E F S F O R
THE TECHNIQUES AND TRICKS THEY USE WHEN THEYRE
M A K I N G D I N N E R I N T H E I R O W N B A C K YA R D S .
photographs by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriot

Su mme r Ed i t i on
 T H E GOODS COOK THE COVER
TO P P I N G S
Creamy Hummus
1Summers Most 1
with Cumin
M A K E S A B O U T 4 C U P S Dont be

Glorious Snack? Cooked

chickpeas
+ olive oil
afraid to let the food processor run
the full 2 minutes. Its one of the keys

Its All in the Wrist + parsley

+ Aleppo-
style pepper
to supersmooth, aerated hummus.

cup dried chickpeas

THE PRO SAM SMITH 2 tsp. baking soda
Tus k / Po r tla n d , O R Roasted 3 garlic cloves, 2 smashed,
cherry 1 finely grated
Theres hummus that you polish off straight from the container, then tomatoes
+ olive oil
1 dried red chile
theres restaurant hummus: silkier, smoother, significantly more
+ cilantro (such as chile de rbol)
alluring. Smith is a master of the latter. His toppings change often,
with a different vegetable crowning the bowl depending on the + chopped 1 bay leaf
toasted cup (or more) fresh
season (see right). Hummus is an awesome canvas to showcase all
almonds + lemon juice
the nice produce we get, he says. Think crunchy snap peas nigella seeds
in summer and rich bean stew in winter, along with spices, nuts, and Kosher salt
a healthy glug of olive oil. His picture-perfect platingthe result (Find full 1 cup tahini
of making, oh, about 10,000 dishes of hummus over the course of his recipes and cup olive oil
careerlends a mesmerizing elegance to what is otherwise, more ideas at
bonappetit
1 tsp. ground cumin
lets face it, a beige blob on a plate. M E RY L R O T H ST E I N
.com
/hummus) Combine chickpeas and baking
soda in a medium bowl and
pour in cold water to cover by 2".
Cover and let sit 812 hours.
T H E M OV E H U M M U S SWO O S H Drain chickpeas, rinse, and
place in a large saucepan along
1Using a large with smashed garlic, chile, and bay
serving spoon, 1 2 3 leaf. Pour in cold water to cover
place a heaping by 2". Bring to a boil over medium-
dollop of hummus high heat; reduce heat and simmer
in the center
of the plate. Try
gently, skimming foam occasionally
to create roughly from surface, until chickpeas are
the shape of falling apart, 3545 minutes. Drain,
a circleif its reserving about 1 cup cooking
oblong or liquid. Pluck out and discard garlic,
splattered, it will
be hard to make 4 chile, and bay leaf.
it round later on. Combine grated garlic, lemon
juice, and a pinch of salt in a food
2In one smooth
motion, with the processor and let sit until the bite
tip of the spoon in in garlic mellows, about 5 minutes.
the center of the Add tahini and cup ice water
hummus, push the and process until smooth. With the
spoon down and
rotate while
motor running, slowly stream in oil.
you spin the plate Season with another large pinch
in the opposite of salt. Add chickpeas and cumin
direction. and process until hummus is very
3Fill the divot smooth, light, and creamy, about
on the plate with 2 minutes. It will tighten up as
a small spoonful it cools, so it should be loose to
of hummus, then the point of being pourable at
repeat the same
motion to create this stage. If it looks thick, thin with
a second, chickpea cooking liquid, pulsing
miniswirl in the in by the tablespoonful until you
plates center. reach the right consistency. Taste
4Spoon the hummus and season with salt and
filling into the more lemon juice if needed.
center of hummus. D O A H E A D : Hummus can be
Drizzle with olive
oil, then garnish
made 1 week ahead. Cover and
with herbs, spices, chill. Bring to room temperature
and/or nuts. before serving.

58
 Get all 2.0
with recipes for
pineapple and
raspberry sodas
at bonappetit
.com/soda

2
Sod a - f y
Your Be r r i e s
2 fresh bay leaves,
cup sugar, and a pinch
of kosher salt, and
stir until most of sugar is
dissolved. Transfer to
a 1-qt. jar or an airtight
THE PRO
container. Cover and
A N N A WA L L AC E Cold-Infused chill 812 hours.
Se a t t le Se lt zer Co. / Blackberry- Strain pure through
Seat t le Pepper Soda clean sieve into another
Crush 1 Tbsp. black medium bowl (youll
When Im working with peppercorns with a have about 3 cups);
summer fruits, I dont want to mortar and pestle or the discard solids.
do anything to alter their side of a chefs knife. To make 1 drink, mix
flavor, Wallace says. Instead Pulse 2 lb. very ripe cup pure with cup
of cooking them down into blackberries in a food club soda in a measuring
a syrup for drinks, she preserves processor until all berries glass; taste and add
their mouthwatering tartness are broken up but a few more pure if you want
by pureing, then steeping larger pieces remain. it sweeter. Pour into an
them with sugar and dried Strain through a fine-mesh ice-filled glass. Garnish
spices to accentuate the fruits sieve into a medium bowl, with a lemon wedge,
complexity. The next day she pressing down on solids a bay leaf, and a
strains the mixture, producing to extract as much liquid blackberry or two.
a light infusion to top off with as possible; discard solids. Do ahead: Pure can
club soda for a chic spritzer. You should have about be infused and strained
3 cups very thick pure. 3 days ahead. Cover and
Bottoms up! AS H L E Y M AS O N
Add crushed peppercorns, chill. Makes 12
 3
G r a b Fis h
by It s C ol l a r
These are
delicious with
salt, pepper, and oil,
but a tarebasically
Japanese barbecue
sauceis next level,
London says.

THE PRO
A A R O N LO N D O N
ALs Pla ce /
San F rancisco

If youre walking away from

the fishmonger with a package
of tidy fillets this summer,
youre missing out on the best,
most grillable part of the fish.
Its the collar youre after, that
triangular section of tender,
fatty meat tucked between the
fishs gills and the rest of its
body, a cheap throwaway cut
that chefs are crazy about.
Collars are an easy win,
London says. Its where you
find all the richest meat. This
is hands-on, finger-licking
drinking food par excellence
the chicken wings of the sea.
A M I E L STA N E K

T H E G O O D S F I S H CO L L A R S
By and large, tracking the collars down is going to be the hardest part:
Seek out a quality fishmonger and call in advance before you waste a trip.
Ask him to take the head of a larger fishsalmon or hamachi is great
split it in half, then cut away everything from the gill plate to the mouth,
leaving you with two vaguely T-shaped chunks.
Grilled Salmon Collars
4 S E RV I N G S Dont fuss with
the salmon too much once its
on the grill: Let the flesh naturally
release from the grate before
attempting to turn it.
1 2" piece ginger, peeled,
thinly sliced
1 fresh red chile (such
as Fresno or Holland),
coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, smashed
cup mirin (sweet
Japanese rice wine)
cup soy sauce
cup sake
tsp. sugar
4 salmon collars (about 3 lb.
total), scaled, fins removed
Kosher salt
Vegetable oil (for grill)
Bring ginger, chile, garlic, mirin,
soy sauce, sake, sugar, and
1 cup water to a boil in a medium
saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer
mixture, stirring occasionally, until
reduced by half, 1520 minutes.
Let cool. Strain tare through a
fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof
measuring glass or small bowl;
discard solids. Set aside cup
tare. Pour remaining tare into
a large resealable plastic bag.
Season salmon lightly with salt and
place in bag. Seal bag and turn
salmon to coat. Chill at least 30
minutes and up to 2 hours (go the
full time for the most flavor).
Prepare a grill for medium heat.
You want moderate heat for fatty
fish like salmon so the fat can
slowly render while the skin gets
nice and crisp. Clean grate well
with a wire brush. Just before you
set salmon on the grill, fold up
a paper towel and hold it with
a pair of long tongs. Dip paper
towel in oil and wipe down grate.
Remove salmon from tare, letting
excess drip back into bag; discard
tare in bag. Grill salmon, skin
side down, brushing occasionally
with reserved cup tare, until
skin is lightly charred and crisp,
57 minutes. Turn salmon and grill
until other side is lightly charred
(dont brush this side with tare),
about 5 minutes. Transfer salmon
collars to a platter.
4Roll with the Bacon Fat
THE PROS R E N E O RT I Z A N D L A U R A S A W I C K I
Fre s a s / A u s t i n
Those hard-core fans of corn tortillas can be ruthless. They arent wrong, of course
handmade ones are a thing of beauty when filled with carnitas or al pastor. But when
it comes to chorizo-and-egg breakfast tacos or steak fajitas blistered on a griddle,
flour is the clear summer move. At Fresas, the chefs are testing out bacon fat to create
soft, slightly thick ones. On a weekend afternoon, roll your own batch of 16or
double the recipe and keep them fresh under a moist kitchen towelthen fill them with
fried fish for tacos. It wont take long to convert corn believers. A N D R E W K N OW LTO N
Bacon-Fat Flour Tortillas Using tongs, transfer bacon to
M A K E S 16 Theres no need paper towels to drain; reserve for
to roll these superthin. In fact, another use. Pour off 2 Tbsp. bacon
T H E GOODS a little heft keeps them moist. fat from skillet for making tortillas.
B ACO N FAT Let remaining fat cool and reserve
8 oz. thin-cut smoked bacon for another use (see sidebar!).
Dont toss
2 Tbsp. plus tsp. Bring oil, cup milk, and
that liquid vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. bacon fat to a simmer in
gold after 1 cups whole milk, divided a small saucepan (be careful not
making 2 tsp. baking powder to boil); immediately remove from
breakfast. It 1 tsp. kosher salt heat. Whisk baking powder, salt,
lends extra-
flaky texture 3 cups all-purpose flour, and 3 cups flour in a medium
to these plus more for surface bowl to combine. Pour in hot milk
homemade mixture and remaining cup
tortillas. Cook bacon in a large skillet, milk. Mix with your hands until
Also try it to
braise greens
preferably cast iron, over medium a shaggy dough forms.
or brush atop heat, turning occasionally, until Turn dough out onto a lightly
roast chicken. brown and crisp, 810 minutes. floured work surface and knead
until smooth and elastic, about
4 minutes. Wrap in plastic and
let rest at room temperature
1 hour to relax dough.
Divide dough into 16 Ping-
Pongsize balls (about 1"
in diameter). Working one at
a time and keeping remaining
balls covered with a kitchen
towel, roll out on a lightly floured
surface to 6" rounds.
Heat a comal, griddle, or
a clean large cast-iron skillet
over medium. Working in batches,
cook tortillas, reducing heat if
they are getting dark too quickly,
until brown in spots on bottom
sides and air bubbles form on
surface, about 2 minutes. Poke
large bubbles with a fork to release
steam, flip tortillas, and cook
until brown in spots on second
sides, 12 minutes. Stack
and wrap tortillas in a kitchen
towel as they are done. This
will keep them warm until you
are ready to serve them.
 Whip up sugar snap Lamb Burgers
pea vinaigrette with Fennel Slaw
and vadouvan yogurt M A K E S 4 Splurge on sturdy
dip at bonappetit
bakery buns that can absorb
.com/crudites
the extra liquid from the slaw and
burger without disintegrating.

AIOLI
cup rinsed salt-packed capers
1 cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
Kosher salt

ASS E M B LY
1 lb. ground lamb
Kosher salt
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
3 celery stalks, thinly sliced
on the diagonal
fennel bulb, thinly sliced;
plus cup chopped
fennel fronds (optional)
large sweet onion, sliced
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. crushed dried mint
Freshly ground black pepper
4 hamburger buns, toasted
12 boquerones (optional)

A I O L I Place capers in a small bowl

and pour in warm water to cover.
Let soak 20 minutes. Drain, rinse,
and pat dry. Coarsely chop.
Whisk capers, mayonnaise, oil,
lemon zest and juice, mustard, and

5Crudits, the Fresh Way garlic in a bowl; season with salt.

ASS E M B LY Shape lamb into

THE PRO JOSEF CENTENO 4 patties about 1" thick, season
P.Y. T. / L o s A n g eles with salt, and let sit at room
If raw veg is the only thing that comes to mind when you hear crudits, think again. temperature 30 minutes.
What makes Centenos spread so amazing is the mix of textures and temperatures Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large
on one plate. Any way that wed want to eat a vegetable or fruitroasted, grilled, or skillet, ideally cast iron, over
pickledmakes it onto the platter, he says of the restaurants chalkboard special. medium. Cook burgers, working in
To upgrade your cocktail hour, use his chart to prepare produce in a range of colors, batches if needed, until browned,
get creative with your cuts, then mix up a sauce or two to tie it all together. A . M . 57 minutes. Turn and cook until
browned on second side, about
5 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer
to a plate and let rest 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss celery, fennel,
fennel fronds (if using), onion, lemon
juice, dried mint, and remaining
R OA S T GRILL P I C K L E O R K E E P R AW 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl.
Pumpkin Squash Jicama Fava bean pods Carrots Grapefruit Season slaw with salt and pepper.
Small beets Stone fruit Sugar snap peas Oranges Corona beans Spread aioli over buns and
Cauliflower Brussels Halved avocados Broccolini Haricots verts Asian build burgers with patties,
sprouts Artichoke hearts Fennel Asparagus pears Okra Cucumbers boquerones (if using), and slaw.
6
B u i l d a B e t t e r (N o n-B e e f !) B u rg e r
THE PRO N I C K P E R K I N S / H ar t s / Bro o k l y n

Most of the food at Harts tends toward seafood and vegetable dishes with Mediterranean flavors,
so I felt like a lamb burger complemented those things better than beef, Perkins says. Aside from
our clam toast, this is the only dish I knew would be on the menu all the time. I also wanted a burger
you could eat without feeling like you had to immediately lie down and take a nap.

Choose
a roll that doesnt
compete with the
rest of the burger and
lets the ingredients
shine.

We make Instead of
a fennel-celery cheese, cured white
salad thats fresh anchovies are a
and crunchy to cut bright counterpoint to
through the umami the lambs richness;
of the lamb. I have a serious
dairy allergy.

The patty
A creamy, is on the smaller
garlicky aioli seals side because
the dealeven better the grass-fed lamb
with some good Italian is packed with
salt-packed capers flavor.
folded into it.

63
 Don t Fe a r
7
Sq uid . S ear I t
THE PRO
B E N JA M I N S U K L E
Obe rlin / Providen ce, R I

We should all cook squid

more oftenits sustainable,
inexpensive, and incredibly
quick. Yet many grilled squid
experiments end up in curled
little catastrophes, complete
with pockets of slimy flesh.
Not so in Rhode Island
a state that is to squid what
Maine is to lobsterwhere
Sukle cracked the code:
Cook it like Chicken-Under-a-
Brick, applying the weight
of a cast-iron pan to maximize
sear and minimize chew.
Secrets out. A . K .
SQUIDUNDER A SKILLET
T H E M OV E

1Separate tentacles from bodies.
Butterfly the bodies by cutting a slit from
wide opening to other end; open into
a flat triangle. Using back of the knife,
scrape away jellylike membrane inside.
2Cover the bottom of a large cast-
iron skillet with aluminum foil. Preheat
your grill, place the skillet on the grate,
and let it get screaming hot (10 minutes
on a charcoal grill; 25 on a gas grill).
3Move the skillet to the side and
lightly oil grate. Using tongs, place a
few pieces of squid on grill, then press
the hot skillet on top of them. Grill until
sear marks appear, about 45 seconds.

64

4Remove skillet and turn squid
pieces. (Try your best to lay them flat.)
Place skillet back on top and cook until
other side has grill marks, 45 or so
seconds. Thats it. Now go grill the rest.
Grilled Squid with Chile
Dressing and Radishes
4 S E RV I N G S If you cant find
aj amarillo chiles, substitute with
the paste, which is more widely
available. Add 2 tsp. paste to
dressing before adding the oil.
D R E SS I N G
3 dried ancho chiles
2 dried chiles de rbol
1 dried pasilla chile
1 dried aj amarillo chile
2 large or 4 small radishes
2 garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or
red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. honey
tsp. smoked paprika
Kosher salt, freshly
ground pepper
cup olive oil
SQUID
2 lb. cleaned large squid,
bodies and
tentacles separated
5 garlic cloves, finely grated
cup mayonnaise
cup sherry vinegar or red
wine vinegar
Kosher salt, freshly
ground pepper
Vegetable oil (for grill)
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
cup parsley leaves with
tender stems
1 Tbsp. thinly sliced chives
1 Tbsp. marjoram leaves
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt, freshly
ground pepper
cup torn pitted
Castelvetrano olives
Olive oil (for drizzling)
T H E GOODS
WHOLE D R E SS I N G Place ancho chiles,
SQUID chiles de rbol, pasilla chile,
and aj amarillo chile in a large
heatproof measuring glass
Fresh are
better than
and pour boiling water over to
frozen if you submerge. Cover with plastic
can get them. wrap and let sit until chiles are
Ask your fish softened, 2025 minutes. Drain.
place for the Remove seeds from chiles;
biggest ones
possible; discard. Remove tops from radishes
theyre easier and coarsely chop. Thinly slice
to prepare radishes and set aside for the salad.
and cook. Combine chiles, radish tops, garlic,
vinegar, lemon juice, honey, and
paprika in a blender; season with
salt and pepper. Blend until chiles
are finely chopped. With the motor
running, stream in oil; blend until
dressing is emulsified and smooth.
S Q U I D Prepare a grill for high
heat. Cover the underside of a large
cast-iron skillet with 2 layers of
foil and set on grate (you want it
to have time to get very hot).
Working one at a time, butterfly
squid bodies. Cut a slit from wide
opening to pointed end of body
and open up into a flat triangle.
Remove the thin clear sliver of
cartilage; discard. Using the back of
your knife, scrape away the jellylike
membrane lining the inside of the
body. Rinse bodies and tentacles
well; pat dry with paper towels.
Combine garlic, mayonnaise,
vinegar, several pinches of salt, and
a few cranks of pepper in a large
plastic resealable bag. Add squid,
seal bag, pressing out air, and
massage to coat squid in marinade.
Chill 30 minutes.
Lightly oil grate (grate must
be clean, so give it a scrub with a
wire brush before oiling if needed).
Remove squid from bag, letting
marinade drip off. Place a few
pieces flat on grate and immediately
set hot skillet on top (you want to
work in a small enough area and
with few enough pieces that the
skillet covers all the squid at once).
Grill until marks appear, about
45 seconds, then uncover squid
and turn over (pieces will curl a
bit). Set skillet back on top and grill
until marks appear on second side,
about another 45 seconds. Transfer
squid to a medium bowl. Continue
with remaining squid.
Add lemon juice to bowl with
squid and season with a bit more
salt; toss to coat. If bodies are
very large, cut into smaller pieces;
transfer to a platter. Drizzle several
tablespoonfuls of dressing over
(reserve the rest for serving with
grilled meats or scrambled eggs).
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY Toss
parsley, chives, marjoram, lemon
juice, and reserved radishes in a
medium bowl; season with salt and
pepper. Scatter salad over squid;
top with olives and drizzle with oil.
 8
T r y t he
S w ee t e s t,
We swap
in peaches for
the usual tomatoes
texturally theyre
similar and just
about as sweet.

Sa vor ies t
Fr uit S a la d
THE PRO
SARA KRAMER
Kisme t / Los An g eles

At Kismet, were always

thinking about how to build
more flavor into our dishes,
to make them multilayered
without being complicated,
Kramer says. This is a twist
on a classic Israeli salad, the
base of which is just cucumbers
and tomatoes with herbs
and sometimes onions. Heres
how to create something
that accentuates in-season
ingredients without drawing
any attention away.

With the
meatiness of the
peaches, crispness of
cucumbers, and crunchy
pumpkin seeds, you
get an ideal mix
of textures.

Take dressing
beyond lemon and
olive oil to one thats
herby and spicy. The
spice packs punch,
so the salad is
more dynamic.

We add
avocado because
were in California.
It lends substance
and makes the meal
satisfying.

66
Savory Peach and
Cucumber Salad
This is the time
4 S E RV I N G S
to celebrate peaches. Look for
standout varieties such as
July Flame, Suncrest, or OHenry.
cup raw pumpkin seeds
1 Tbsp. plus cup olive oil
Kosher salt
1 cardamom pod
1 whole clove
tsp. coriander seeds
tsp. cumin seeds
1 serrano chile, finely grated
1 garlic clove, finely grated
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
3 Tbsp. finely chopped
cilantro, plus leaves with
tender stems for serving
3 Tbsp. (or more) fresh
lemon juice
2 medium Persian cucumbers,
cut into 1" pieces
4 medium yellow peaches,
cut into 1"1" pieces
1 avocado, cut into 1" pieces
1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill
or mortar and pestle
Preheat oven to 350. Toast pumpkin
seeds on a rimmed baking sheet,
tossing halfway through, until golden
brown and slightly puffed, 57
minutes; let cool. Transfer to a small
bowl and toss with 1 Tbsp. oil;
season with salt.
Meanwhile, toast cardamom,
clove, coriander, and cumin in a
dry small skillet over medium heat,
tossing occasionally, until fragrant,
about 2 minutes. Remove seeds
from cardamom pod; discard pod.
Finely grind seeds along with other
spices in spice mill or with mortar
and pestle. Mix in a large bowl
with chile, garlic, parsley, chopped
cilantro, lemon juice, and remaining
cup oil; season with salt. Add
cucumber and toss. Let sit 5 minutes.
Add peaches, avocado,
and half of the pumpkin seeds to
cucumber mixture and season
generously with salt; toss to coat.
Taste and adjust seasoning with
more salt and/or lemon juice.
Serve topped with sesame seeds,
cilantro leaves, and remaining
pumpkin seeds.
9Smoke Em If You Got Em
T H E P R O S J O N AT H A N A N D J U S T I N F OX
Fo x Bro s . Ba r -B-Q / A t l an t a
These wings fly above the rest: Theyre juicy, pleasantly chewy, and the meat has
a rosy tinta tell-tale sign a smokers involved. First theyre seasoned with a spicy rub,
then smoked low and slow, deep-fried, and sauced. Thats some heavy lifting! But pick
a lazy Sunday, skip the frying, andboomyouve got superlative wings. Be thankful
youre only making a few; every weekend at Fox Bros. they smoke 15,000. A . K .
Smoky Saucy S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A chimney
Chicken Wings starter or a smoker box; hardwood
4 S E RV I N G S Fox Bros. sells its chunks or chips
T H E M OV E own barbecue sauce, which you
DIY can order online, but any store- For a charcoal grill, fill chimney
SM O K E R
bought sauce will work here too. starter with charcoal; light and let
burn until coals are covered with a
Bank a pile 3 Tbsp. paprika thin layer of ash. Pour onto one side
of ashy, hot 1 Tbsp. chili powder of grill. Arrange 3 chunks of wood
charcoal onto 1 Tbsp. garlic powder or a handful of chips next to, not
one side 1 Tbsp. onion powder on top of, coals. Replace grate and
of your grill,
then add a 1 tsp. chipotle chile powder cover grill, positioning vent on lid
chunk of 1 tsp. mustard powder as far from heat source as possible.
hardwood or 4 tsp. kosher salt, plus more For a gas grill, prepare grill for
chips beside 4 lb. large chicken wings medium-low indirect heat, leaving
it. Cover and
close vents.
without tips (1618), flats one or two burners off. Place wood
After 10 and drumettes separated chips in smoker box and set over
minutes, the 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter direct heat; cover grill.
temp should cup store-bought Stick a probe thermometer
be around barbecue sauce through top vent if your grill has
275. Or...
just buy a Big cup hot sauce one. Heat until thermometer registers
Green 1 Tbsp. mild-flavored 275, adjusting vents on bottom
Egg smoker. (light) molasses and top of grill or control knobs as
needed to maintain temperature.
Meanwhile, mix paprika, chili
powder, garlic powder, onion
powder, chipotle chile powder,
mustard powder, and 4 tsp. salt in
a bowl. Place wings on a rimmed
baking sheet; sprinkle both sides
with rub. Let sit at room temperature
until grill is ready.
Smoke wings over indirect heat,
leaving a small gap between
each so smoke can circulate well
and replenishing wood (and coals)
as needed, until deeply browned
and an instant-read thermometer
inserted into thickest part registers
165, 12 hours (you dont need
to turn wings).
Meanwhile, melt butter in a
small saucepan over medium heat.
Add barbecue sauce, hot sauce,
and molasses and cook, stirring, until
heated through; season with salt.
Toss wings in sauce to serve.

10
Cool Off
with the
Coolest
Cold
Soup
THE PRO SHIGETOSHI
JAC K N A K A M U R A
Na ka mura /
New York Cit y
Cold soupswhether
lumpy gazpacho or beige
vichyssoiseare about as fun
as Labor Day traffic. Not at this
Japanese wunderkinds shop,
where hot days call for chilled
ramen. Its a refreshing vegan
bowl of noodles and veg
bathed in a frosty, funky-salty-
sweet broth consisting of little
more than soy milk fortified
with miso tare. This is perfect
lunch ramen, Nakamura said,
smiling as he watched us lick
our bowls clean. Well take it
for all other meals, too. A . S .
Chilled Ramen with cup thinly sliced basil
Soy Milk and Chili Oil 4 cups soy milk or
4 S E RV I N G S The homemade other nondairy milk
Sichuan chili paste and chili oil or regular milk
yield more than you need for 1 3x1" strip grapefruit zest,
the ramen, but they will keep for very thinly sliced
weeks and make for great 2 Tbsp. white or regular
all-purpose condiments. Or for soy sauce
making this dish over and over. Plain unsweetened granola
or fried shallots, garlic
S I C H U A N C H I L I PAS T E chips, unsalted, dry-roasted
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, peanuts, and/or any
very finely chopped other store-bought
cup toasted sesame oil crunchy toppings you
cup vegetable oil want (for serving)
4 tsp. crushed
red pepper flakes S I C H U A N C H I L I PAS T E Bring ginger,
1 Tbsp. paprika sesame oil, vegetable oil, red
4 tsp. toasted sesame seeds pepper flakes, and paprika to a
1 Tbsp. mirin (sweet gentle simmer in a small saucepan
Japanese rice wine) over medium; cook 30 seconds.
1 Tbsp. raw or Remove from heat and add sesame
granulated sugar seeds, mirin, raw sugar, miso, sake,
1 Tbsp. red or white miso and Sichuan peppercorns and
1 Tbsp. sake whisk until sugar is dissolved. Return
1 Tbsp. Sichuan peppercorns to a gentle simmer; immediately
remove from heat and let cool.
M I S O TA R E
2 scallions, thinly sliced M I S O TA R E Cook scallions, ginger,
FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAN BUCHCZIK. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, apple, garlic, miso, mirin, sake,
finely grated
1 apple wedge (about
of apple), peeled,
toban djan, and red pepper flakes
in a small saucepan over medium
heat, stirring, just until warm
finely grated
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
(do not let it simmer) and garlic no
longer tastes raw, about 5 minutes.
T H E GOODS
S OY M I L K
cup white, sweet white,
and/or red miso C H I L I O I L Heat oil in a small
Finding a
1 Tbsp. mirin (sweet
Japanese rice wine)
saucepan over medium-high until
very hot but not quite smoking.
soy milk with
the right
1 Tbsp. sake
1 tsp. toban djan
(chili bean paste)
Add scallions and paprika; season
with salt. Cook, swirling often, until
scallions are browned and oil is
body is key
to creating tsp. crushed deep red, about 2 minutes; let cool.
a cold soup red pepper flakes
base that N O O D L E S A N D ASS E M B LY Cook
gestures
toward the
CHILI OIL noodles in a large pot of boiling
luxurious cup vegetable or other salted water according to package
texture of neutral oil instructions until al dente. Drain,
meaty, long- 2 scallions, thinly sliced then immediately chill in a bowl
simmered 1 tsp. paprika of ice water. Drain again.
ramen broth.
The chef uses Kosher salt Toss cucumbers, bell pepper,
a boutique-y and radishes with 3 Tbsp. Sichuan
Japanese N O O D L E S A N D ASS E M B LY chili paste in a small bowl; season
brand that 20 oz. frozen ramen noodles or with salt. Add basil and toss again.
costs a
whopping
12 oz. dried ramen noodles Whisk miso tare into milk
$20 a quart, Kosher salt in a medium bowl, then whisk in
but for our 3 Persian cucumbers, cut into grapefruit zest and soy sauce.
supermarket " pieces Divide noodles, then milk mixture
taste test 1 small red or orange bell and vegetables among bowls.
and top
picksee pepper, ribs and seeds Toss granola or toppings of choice
Prep School, removed, very thinly sliced in a little chili oil and scatter over
p. 99. cup thinly sliced radishes noodles; drizzle with more chili oil.
 11
An ice pop is only
as good as its mold.
Onyx makes these
stainless-steel stunners
in a set of six
($39; amazon.com).

Ge t a L ic k of
This C o ck t ai l
T H E P R O E M I LY
SPURLIN
Ba d H u n t e r / C h i c a go

With some grapes in her

hand and a Snoop Dogg song
in her heart, Spurlin started
experimenting with boozy
ice-pop ideas last summer,
settling on this Gin and Juice
treat. (Note: Apple and other
juices would work well too.)
Alcohol wont freeze solid, so
you can only use so much. Her
trick? Infuse simple syrup with
juniper berries, which amps up
gin flavor without getting you
wasted. N I K I TA R I C H A R D S O N

Boozy Concord-
Grape Ice Pops
Toast cup juniper
berries in a dry small skillet
over medium heat, tossing
often, until fragrant and
skins are very glossy, about
1 minute. Let cool slightly,
then crush with a mortar
and pestle (or, place in
a resealable plastic bag and
crush with a rolling pin).
Transfer berries to a small
saucepan. Add cup
sugar and cup water
and bring to a simmer,
stirring to dissolve sugar.
Remove from heat and let
sit 30 minutes. Strain juniper
syrup through a fine- molds and freeze
mesh sieve into a small bowl; until liquid is beginning
discard solids. Place bowl to crystallize, about
in a larger bowl of ice 1 hour. Cover and insert
water and let juniper syrup sticks (waiting until
sit, stirring occasionally, liquid is slushy ensures
until cold, about 30 minutes. straight sticks), then
Stir juniper syrup, 2 cups freeze ice pops until
chilled Concord grape solid, at least 4 hours
juice, cup gin, and but preferably 12 hours.
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Dip molds briefly in hot
in a large measuring glass water to release pops.
or a medium pitcher; taste Do ahead:
and add more lime juice Ice pops can be made
if needed. Divide mixture 1 week ahead. Keep
among ten 2-oz. ice-pop frozen. Makes 10
69
70
 ON THE CR AGGY SOUTHWESTERN COAST OF ENGL AND, CHEFS, SURFERS,
A N D VA C A T I O N E R S C O M E T O C O R N W A L L I N S E A R C H O F R U G G E D B E A C H E S ,
P A S T O R A L FA R M L A N D , A N D T H E C O U N T R Y S B E S T I N G R E D I E N T S . C H R I S T I N E M U H L K E
HITS THE (VERY WINDING) ROAD TO SEE IF SHE CAN DO THE SAME

The
Great
British
Day
Off
photographs by Randy Harris

In
C O R N WA L L , YO U H AV E TO G E T
lostdesperate and borderline panicky,
ready to give up and go hometo let the
food magic find you. You also have to cast
aside your notions of what a restaurant
should be. Because in this ocean-flanked
southwestern tip of England, hiking
trails, parking lots, and beachside snack
bars often conceal places of no small
magic. That is, if you can find them.
After decades of visiting London, I
realized that with the exception of a day
trip to Stratford-upon-Avon some 25 years
ago, Id never been anywhere else in Eng-
land. On recent visits Id noticed that the
menus at the capitals best restaurants
almost always listed Cornish suppliers,
from the monkfish at the River Caf and
Clove Club to the lamb at Lyles and Fera
at Claridges to the cheeses at Neals Yard
Dairy. So I decided to go to the source,
booking my ticket to Cornwall, a humble
agricultural region-cum-tourist destina-
tion. The fact that the surfing and art
scenes in Cornish towns like Penzance had
been popping up in fancy magazines like
Cond Nast Traveller (UK) and Tatler
oh, and that Spotted Pig chef April
Bloomfield had recently opened a bed-
and-breakfast theremade the decision
that much simpler.
Not that my first stop revealed the areas
promise. On a high-season August Sunday
in the town of Padstow, the streets were
so packed with sunburned tourists it was
hard to move. June, July, and September
72
are really the months to go; August is insanity, as seemingly half
OPPOSITE, the countrys families point their wagons south toward the oth-
C LO C K W I S E erwise quiet peninsula. With a population of just over 540,000,
FROM TOP Cornwall receives close to 5 million visitors a yearmostly
LEFT: A FRESH British, and half of whom seemed to be in line at Steins Fish &
CATC H AT Chips. It is one of ten local restaurants opened by Rick Stein, the
OUTL AWS FISH chef who put the region on the culinary map in the 80s. And it
KITCHEN IN was so joyless and rote, I could hardly appreciate the picture-
PORT ISAAC; book prettiness of the town.
RESIDENTS OF Luckily, an editor friend who escapes to Cornwall on week-
COOMBESHEAD ends had connected me with Beth Druce, a food photographer
FARM; THE who came from London with her boyfriend when he opened
NAMESAKE Georges Surf School in Polzeath. She reassured me that Cornwall
D I S H AT was a worthy destination: Its here, but you have to tap beneath
MACKEREL the surface, she told me. To prove it, she had me follow her
S K Y; J AW to the town of Rockthe Hamptons of the areato check out
DROPPING Treverra Farm Cottage, a gorgeous rental house with a private
COASTLINE chef on request that well-heeled students book for culinary surf
vacations. Druce gave me a list of places to visit during the next
five days and, perhaps most important, taught me how to pro-
gram my cars GPSor satnav, as its called in the UKin these
tiny towns by entering the destinations postal code, not the full
address. Without this tip, I would have been even more lost on
the unmarked lanes, which were frequently so narrow they
required a mastery of driving in reverse when I came face-to-
face with another car.
Even with the satnav assist, I was convinced that the conti-
nent was going to end before I found my next stop, the Gurnards
Head inn. In less than an hour, Id traveled from the tidy, mirror-
grazing hedgerows and picturesque fishing cottages of Padstow
to a no-cell-reception landscape as desolate and breathtaking as
the moon, if the moon had the occasional Holstein. I gave up and
turned off into a village consisting only of a Game of Thrones
esque chapel and a pub. Nope. I stopped a few kilometers farther
and stood on the rental cars hood, hoping to see the marigold-
yellow building that Id seen online with The Gurnards Head
painted on the roof. Not yet. I drove on. Good thing: Minutes
later I was waiting at the hotels firelit bar for the bartender to
hand me the key to my room. As the sun set, I strolled toward the
cliffs on a dirt road, picking blackberries among wildflowers
and noticing footpath signs for those whod rather see Cornwall
at a 19th-century pace.
Arriving at an inn like the Gurnards Head for dinner after a
days walk would be a very civilized idea indeed. The food there
was hearty, fresh, and unselfconsciously worldly, in the way that
English food has absorbed parts of Indian, Asian, and Middle
Eastern cuisines. There was mushroom and tarragon soup for
starters, but also the Turkish eggplant dish imam bayildi served
with baba ghanoush and fresh goats curd. Grilled plaice (a flat-
PREVIOUS fish in the flounder family), topped with butter-cupping clams
SPREAD: and served with a ceramic bowl of minted new potatoes, was just
A BEAUTIFUL right with a bottle of local Polgoon cider, its Champagne-like
D AY I N fizz finer than that of any American cider Id tasted. A sign out-
MOUSEHOLE, side the hotel asks farmers to sell them their produce. Who
A SMALL knows whether this was just for show, but it helped cement the
FISHING feeling that I was eating Cornwall, in Cornwall.
VILLAGE IN Breakfast was a lovely affair in the inns barhomemade
CO R N WA L L yogurt, grainy bread, salmon smoked a few towns over in
Newlyn. As I got back into my car, I noticed an honor stand sell-
ing rhubarb set back from the sparsely traveled road. How many
of the few passersby ever saw it? This was an endearing mystery.
 In shor t, Cornwall is the
+*lm&\^gmnk rnk[Zg\a^_ l]k^Zf'

74
 Only 12 hours before, Id been worried
that Cornwall hadnt been worth the
journeya flight from New York, an
overnight in London, and an hour-long
flight from the dreadful Gatwick into the
metal shed of Newquay airport before
strapping into a right-side-drive Volvo
with all of the insurance boxes checked.
Now, as I made the short drive from the
Celtic Sea to the English Channel side,
following hedgerow-hemmed roads so
prettyso Englishmy chest tightened
with elation, a feeling catalyzed by the
sight of a teacup-shaped sign marking
a farmhouse tearoom. Before I knew it,
I was stopping to photograph the phone
numbers of cottage rentals miles past
where Id been convinced the world was
a
sure to end.
ND THEN, IT SEEMED,
I went off the restaurant
grid. Restaurants, in the
traditional sense, gave
way to snack bars and
picnic blankets. I ate a salad topped with
pristine handpicked white crab and
dipped into a little tub of clotted-cream
ice cream at the Rock Pool caf, an infinitely Instagrammable
RUINS OF A waterside spot accessed through a parking lot in a beachy little
FORMER TIN harbor called Mousehole (pronounced mow-zul), pop. 697. In
MINE; FISH the just-this-side-of-twee space, women spoke French in the
A N D C H I P S AT kitchen, bunting fluttered in the breeze, and a flyer outside
T H E L I F E BOAT announced an upcoming taco night. Next, just to taste, I bought
HOUSE a delicious house-made crab sandwich on brown bread, pack-
aged Automat-style, at Stevenson, a real-deal fishmonger in
Newlyn, where I also stopped at the arrestingly cute seafood
bar Mackerel Sky. There I dove into grilled mackerelthe fish
of choice in Cornwallminimally plated with orange, chives,
and a few dots of ponzu, followed by a half lobster confidently
served with a slice of lemon, one pea shoot, and a bib. Each
table held yet another manifestation of the briny air, a tub of
salt harvested from the nearby sea.
I wanted to get into that water. So, on a windy afternoon,
I joined private chef Ben Quinn, his daughter, Evie, and Mark
Parr, whose company sells firewood to Londons top restau-
rants, on a tugboat in the riverside marina at Helford Passage.
(Parr, curious about Cornwall after hearing so many chefs talk
about its food, had Airbnbd a house.) Quinn hosts catch-and-
cook afternoons during which he casts for mackerel and trans-
forms it into ceviche or sashimi on the spot and drops pots for
crab while tooling along the river. The water was too choppy to
catch any fish, so we drove to Quinns favorite surfing spot at
Chapel Porth Beach, where he set up a makeshift rock grill on
OPPOSITE: which to cook the crab wed caught. We ate standing as the set-
LO B ST E R AT ting sun backlit the wet-suited swimmers. Ive been to many
MACKEREL SKY farm-to-table dinnerseven dinners on farmsbut Ive never
felt as close to a meals ingredients as
I did perched on that windy ledge.
(My only regret: Quinn had told me
that the beachs snack bar served some-
thing called a Hedgehog conevanilla ice
cream smothered in clotted cream and
rolled in honeyed hazelnuts!but it had
closed just before we arrived. No tears
could convince the teen staffers to take
off their backpacks and make me one.)
The desire to eat solely off-piste took
hold. One afternoon I ditched my car
on Lizard Point and hiked a footpath to
the Polpeor Cafe , which had a pulse-
quickening cliffside view from the UKs
most southerly tip, for a seafood platter
again with the mackerel and crab. An
hour later I sat on a harbor wall, using a
wooden chip fork to secure the best fish
and chips of my life from the take-out
counter at the Lifeboat House. The shat-
tering crust (the batter, the cook proudly
told me, is simply flour, water, and local
ale) and fat-cut fries were worth the
15-minute wait for the made-to-order,
7-pound-50-pence gem.
By dinnertime I was blissfully lost
again in Porthcurnick, seeking a beach-
side shack fittingly named the Hidden
Hut, which was hosting one of its sold-out
feasts. I parked the car behind a few oth-
ers, plate and cutlery in hand, per instruc-
tions from the young London couple who
took over the National Trust shack in
2011, and headed toward what I hoped
was the beach. There I found an enchanted
sunset scene, as locals gathered on
benches and blankets on the hill behind
the clapboard building as cooks tended
satellite-dish-size paella pans over open
fires, churning out five separate rice
dishes, plus mackerel pt.
Most exciting was the part when we
got to take whatever baked goods we
wanted from the Hidden Hut window.
English treats like rocky road bars, short-
bread, and raspberry bakewells were
arrayed like a fantasy sequence from
The Great British Bake Off. I wrapped
a bakewell in a napkin for breakfast.
Eventually, families gathered their coolers
and hot water bottles (balmy Cornwall
might be one of the mildest places in
England, but it does get nippy at night)
and strolled home along a coastal path
over a gentle green hill.
That exciting combination of random
discovery and homey pastries collided
again the next morning, as I eventually,
semi-hysterically found Woods Cafe. The
satnav had deposited me in someones
76
driveway, which, by that point, didnt seem like an improbable
place for a restaurant. The stone cottage anchors a hiking trail
off a remote parking lot in the Cardinham Woods, a beacon of
tea and scones for the walkers, horseback riders, and mountain
bikers who gathered on benches outside to bolster their strength
with white chocolatecranberry flapjacks (think brownie meets
granola bar) and a pot of locally harvested Tregothnan tea.
I opted for a raisin scone and spent the next five minutes
attempting to video the clotted cream: It was so thick that it cre-
ated a mesmerizing cheese-pull effect when I tried to get it out
of the ramekin. The deliciousness of this Cornish ingredient and
the loveliness of the only-in-Cornwall experience had me bor-
derline weepy over my tea tray.
t
WO HOURS L ATER, I found myself among black-
faced sheep as I strolled the moorslike, straight-out-of-
Bront moorsat Coombeshead Farm. A few weeks
before, the idyllic former dairy farm had been turned
into what must be one of the countrys most food-driven
guesthouses by Tom Adams, chef of Londons Pitt Cue, and his
friend April Bloomfield. The NYC chef was seeking a rural outlet
but couldnt find the right farm in America. At Coombeshead,
Adams told me while twisting sausages into links, the idea is for
weekend guests (its open Thursday to Sunday) to just putter
around the 66 acres between meals.
And what meals. Adams makes nearly everything consumed
there, from the chamomile kombucha to the bread and cultured
butter, made from five Jersey cows a mile away, to the cured
Mangalitsa pork and the pickled nasturtium capers that are used
in place of black pepper at the family-style meals (Bloomfield
visits a handful of times each year to cook and relax). We just
get kicks out of doing everything from scratch, he said. Meals
are a farmhouse affair. The shockingly affordable wine list of
OPPOSITE, bin-ends from cult winemakers is worth the airfare and learning
CLOCKWISE to drive on the left.
FROM TOP Coombesheads five cozy bedrooms and 20 seats at dinner
LEFT: A were booked for months, so I could only imagine what a delight
CHINAWARE it would be to just stumble upstairs after a meal of gougres with
SHOP IN cauliflower; cods roe and liver parfait with duck ham; pork loin
MOUSEHOLE; with grilled romaine and gooseberriesthis being just a portion
FISHMONGER of a menu that I spied on a counter near the old Aga stove.
STEVENSON Adams first took the ocean-hugging overnight train to Corn-
IN NEWLYN; wall to visit his favorite pig farmers and cheesemakers. Now his
WETSUITED farm is just a few miles from them. Other top London chefs are
BROTHERS IN moving closer to the source too: Dan Cox, former executive chef
COVERACK; of Michelin-starred Fera at Claridges, told me hes turning 120
TEATIME AT acres in St. Mellion into an organic restaurant/brewery/pottery
WOODS CAFE studio. Tim Spedding, the chef at beloved wine bar P. Franco,
recently bought a farm and plans to open a self-sufficient B&B.
(Ive developed a network of suppliers in Cornwall who, in my
opinion, supply the best seafood in the UK, he told me via email.
Imagine how high the quality will be when there is no courier
involved.) In short, its the 21st-century urban chef s dream.
And for the food traveler willing to go the extra 265 miles,
London might soon become the footnote to eating vacations.
After five days in Cornwall, the appeal of ditching the city for
a life hereor at least a couple of weeksmade sense. Like the
food itself, its slow, beautiful, affordable, and not trying to be
the next anything. Here, its about being at the source, no matter
how lost you get trying to find it.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, SEE SOURCEBOOK
78
 T H E B E S T ( A N D E A S I E S T ! ) WAY T O E AT S PA R K L I N G F R E S H S E A F O O D
T H I S S U M M E R ? R AW. W H E T H E R YO U R E A F T E R T R A N S L U C E N T S L I V E R S O F F L U K E
D R E S S E D S I M P LY W I T H G R A S S Y O L I V E O I L O R M E AT Y S L I C E S O F T U N A
SHOWERED WITH GRAPEFRUIT AND CRUNCHY R ADISH, WEVE GOT ALL THE
INTEL YO U NEED TO MASTER CRUDO AT HOME

In
The
Raw
by Alison Roman photographs by Peden + Munk
C 2
R U D O, Wha t t o A s k For
Your first words should be Whats fresh?
which literally not Do you have _____? No matter what you
translates as had in mind, quality, not a recipe ingredient
raw in Italian, list, should determine the crudo you serve. Make friends
with the person behind the counter, let her know youre
is just that: planning to serve the fish raw, and she should be able
raw fish. These to help you find the best option. (No bass todaytry
the snapper!) Whatever you order, ask for cleaned
days you can fillets, skin and bonesboth large and smallremoved.
walk into restaurants of every
stripefrom tasting-menu
spots to hip neighborhood

3
joints, Mediterranean-leaning S t ori n g
to Asian-inflectedand order
S t ep-by -S t e p
slivers of insanely fresh, Buying fish the day youre eating it
thoughtfully garnished seafood. is recommended, but a day ahead
It may be dressed down (good is fine. Heres how to give it the TLC
it deserves once you get it home.
olive oil, lemon, crunchy salt)
or gussied up (tiny herbs,
shaved veggies), but either way
the idea is simple: to highlight
and enhance the very best that
the sea has to offer. And while
it might have an air of chef-y
unapproachability, the good
news is that if youve got a
good fishmonger and a sharp
knife, youve got everything
you need to prepare and serve

RAW SEAFOOD IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR INFANTS, THE ELDERLY, PREGNANT WOMEN, PEOPLE WITH WEAKENED IMMUNE SYSTEMS...
raw fish at home. (Seriously.)

1
most immaculate
product. (As in, your
supermarket fish
STEP 1 Take your fish STEP 3 Wrap the fish
counter aint going out of whatever butcher in clean, dry paper towels
to cut it.) When you paper or plastic bag it and seal in a plastic bag.
walk into a place, was sold in.
trust your senses: STEP 4 Keep very cold,
STEP 2 Pat the fillets dry ideally on a bed of ice in
The shop should look with paper towels to a dish in the fridge; refresh
clean and smell like, get rid of excess moisture. ice as needed if it melts.
well, nothing except
for the bright, briny
scent of seawater.
Whe r e And while you can
definitely get
t o S ho p spanking-fresh fish

4 H ow t o S l i ce It
AND PEOPLE WHO DONT LIKE SEAFOOD GENERALLY.

You want to buy in most parts of the Make sure your fish is cold and your knife is
from a market that country, were always sharp to prevent tearing the flesh. Holding
specializes in happiest buying as your knife at a 45-degree angle to the fish,
seafood, period close to the coast slice into " piecesyou want them to be one bite but
thats where youre or the dock for that not so thin that you miss the point entirelyrunning your
going to find the matteras possible. knife under cold water between slices. Dress and serve.

BUT WHAT ABOUT FROZEN FISH? make you sick. In fact, every sushi restaurant in NYC
Still feeling squeamish? Freezing fish before is required by law to do so which is also to say that
serving will kill almost anything that might buying quality frozen fish and serving it raw is A-OK.
 F LU K E
+ FRESH
LEMON JUICE
+ OLIVE OIL
+ P O P PY S E E DS
+ FLAKY
S E A SA LT

MAIL TIME
When a fancy-
schmancy fish market
isnt an option,
high-end mail-order
sources are your
ace in the hole. Sea
to Table (sea2table
.com) and Browne
Trading Company
(brownetrading.com)
are both sure bets
for getting pristine
seafood straight to
your door.

For the full

recipes, go to
bonappetit
.com/crudo
81
 F LO U N D E R
+ PINEAPPLE
+ FRESH LIME
JUICE + ALEPPO-
ST Y L E P E P P E R
+ OLIVE OIL
+ F L A K Y S E A SA LT

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAN BUCHCZIK.
SA L M O N
+ PONZU
SAU C E
+ SERRANO
CHILE

Scallops are great

raw, but only use
ones labeled dry
and day-boat
or that are still-in-
the-shell-fresh. For
a guide to shucking
and cleaning the
latter, see Prep
School, page 98.

82
 SNAPPER
+ WAT E R M E LO N
RADISH
+ L E M O N Z E ST
+ FRESH LEMON
JUICE
+ OLIVE OIL
+ CHIVES
+ F L A K Y S E A SA LT

O PA H
+ G R A P E F RU I T
S EG M E N TS
+ RADISH
+ FRESH
G R A P E F RU I T
JUICE
+ C R AC K E D
B L AC K P E P P E R
+ OLIVE OIL
+ F L A K Y S E A SA LT

FISH WE LIKE FISH TO AVOID

In addition to Stay away from
those featured in this larger cold-water
story, we enjoy fish (think halibut,
eating these raw: Atlantic cod, and
swordfish), which
HAMACHI tend to be mushy
TUNA
when raw and may
contain parasites
BLACK BASS (dont worry,
STRIPED BASS cooking takes care
of those things).
PORGY/SCUP And unless youre
ARCTIC CHAR able to get oily fish
like mackerel and
GROUPER bluefish right out of
SOLE the water, theyll
likely be toofishy
ROCKFISH
for most palates.
by Carla Lalli Music recipes by Alison Carroll

Desert

84
photographs by Danielle Levitt food photographs by Alex Lau

Days

E V E R W I S H YO U C O U L D
TRADE TRAFFIC JAMS FOR
NEVER ENDING SUNSETS?
T H A T S W H A T J AY A N D
A L I S O N C A R R O L L D I D BY
BUILDING A DREAM HOME
IN JOSHUA TREE. IN
BETWEEN HIKES AND
L O N G L A Z Y S W I M S, T H E Y
H O S T O U T D O O R PA R T I E S
T H A T S T A R T E A R LY A N D
E N D L A T E . Y E S, T H E Y V E
FIGURED OUT LIFE
 saw Jay Carroll swig two things
straight from the bottle: One was
tequila; the other was olive oil. His
capacity for tequila at an all-day
party was impressive! But the olive
oil was no surprise. He was sipping
from a Wonder Valley bottle, the
desert-chic label that he created
with his wife, Alison; cold-pressed,
California-grown oil is their signa-
ture product. (I think this means he
was drinking his own Kool-Aid.) The
brand is named for a rural community
in the Mojave Desert where friends lived and where they
drew inspiration for their products. Its also where the
two married and later found their homesteaders dream
house in Joshua Tree, California, just down the road.
Becoming full-time desert dwellers was part of a
strategy to spend more time on their passion projects
and less time on everything else. The key to a cre-
ative life is low overhead, Jay says. Over the past
year theyve tapped into that newfound freedom, add-
ing new items to the Wonder Valley line, which now
includes Turkish woven towels, Japanese incense, ceram-
ics, and an aromatic face oil made with (yep) olive oil.
Their first retail store opened in the neighboring town of
Twentynine Palms in May.
The Carrolls also poured their sweat equity into rehab- ABOVE, FROM
bing the house they bought, hand-cutting and setting giant LEFT: MAGGIE
slabs of rock for its stone floor. The fact that theyre still FOX AND
MIKE SPORTES,
together despite having spent a sweltering-hot summer
THE OWNERS
living in a trailer on the property, taking cold showers
OF FILTH MART
from a hose, and doing physical laborwell, thats true IN L.A., CRUISE
love right there. AROUND IN
Surprisingly, going off the proverbial grid hasnt iso- THE BUGGYS
lated the couple. Now the world comes to us, Jay says. B AC KS E AT;
For their housewarming, more than a dozen friends drove ALISON AND
from L.A., Marfa, Texas, and elsewhere, rolling up in J AY J U I C E
the early afternoon for a party that started with a hike GRAPEFRUITS
to Joshua Tree National Park, was followed by cocktails F O R CO C K TA I LS .
and a swim, then stretched into a laid-back sunset din-
ner. The rowdy bunch sat hip to hip at the biergarten-
style table, passing butterflied chickens, charred carrots,
and glazed sweet potatoes from Alisons wood-fired
grill. Her colorful salads were christened with plenty
of Wonder Valley olive oil, of course. As the temper- PREVIOUS
ature dropped, someone got logs going in the fire pit, PA G E : T H E
CREW COOLS
and conversation gave way to live music by the flames.
OFF IN THE
If this all sounds like grown-up camp for creative types,
YA R D O F S E T
well, it kinda is. The Carrolls want to offer touring musi- DESIGNER STEVE
cians a place to crash and host artists-in-residence in HALTERMAN
their trailer. And theyve always got their eyes peeled for AND HUSBAND
houses nearby that friends might want to buy. After all, GLEN
if lifes a party, the neighbors ought to be a good hang. STEIGELMAN.
BUTTERFLIED
CHICKEN WITH
HERBS AND
CRACKED OLIVES
P. 94

87
STEVE AND
G L E N S 19 6 8
FORD BRONCO
M ATC H E S T H E
DUST Y HUES OF
THE CARROLLS
D I N N E R TA B L E .

88
CELERY SL AW
WITH SEEDS
A N D DAT E S
P. 94
 TOP ROW: ALISON
EYES THE ROSY BOA
C O C K T A I L , P. 9 3 ;
GRILLED CARROTS
WITH CUMINSERRANO
Y O G U R T , P. 9 3 ; W R I T E R
SU WU ON THE ROCKS.
MIDDLE ROW: THE
CARROLLS PORCH;
AVO C A D O CAMPFIRE TUNES
CUPS WITH WITH SINGER LESLIE
P OM E G R A N AT E STEVENS; CHARRED
SALSA VERDE SW E E T P O TATO E S W I T H
P. 9 3 HONEY AND OLIVE
O I L , P. 9 3 . B O T T O M
ROW: RADICCHIO
STONE FRUIT SALAD,
P. 9 3 ; T H E D E S E R T
LANDSCAPE; THE
CARROLLS OLIVE OIL.

90
 W H AT S D O I N G
TAC O T I M E DINNER AND G E T A R O OM H A P PY T R A I LS
I N T H E D E S E RT ? A SHOW
Kasa Market is a Book a bungalow, About that park:
Joshua Tree is only a quick drive away great pit stop on the Pappy & Harriets cabin, or guesthouse Give yourself time to
from Palm Springs, CA, and L.A., drive east. Head is the place for at 29 Palms Inn, explore. The Carrolls
but youll feel like youre in the middle to the taqueria in the barbecue, live which puts you at hit Barker Dam and
of nowhere. Thats the beauty of it. back for excellent music, and a well- the foot of Joshua Hidden Valley for
Heres whats on the Carrolls short list. carne asada tacos. worn dance floor. Tree National Park. short, scenic hikes.

A L I S O N A N D J AY
WITH MAGGIE
FOX AND HER
SON, RENE

92
Rosy Boa Cocktail
Rose water is the little
8 S E RV I N G S
something that makes this drink
special. See Prep School, p. 98, for
our favorite brand.
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. chipotle chile powder
2 cups fresh grapefruit juice
1 cups tequila
cup pomegranate juice
cup fresh lime juice
tsp. rose water
1 cups (or more) ginger beer
Grapefruit wedges (for serving)
Combine salt, paprika, and chile powder
in a small bowl. Moisten half of each rim
of 8 rocks glasses and dip into chile salt.
Set glasses aside.
Combine grapefruit juice, tequila,
pomegranate juice, lime juice, and
rose water in a large pitcher or 8-cup
measuring glass. Add 1 cup ice and
stir until ice is melted and cocktail is very
cold. Stir in ginger beer. Fill prepared
glasses with ice and divide cocktail
among glasses. Garnish with grapefruit
wedges and top off with more ginger
beer, if desired.
D O A H E A D : Grapefruit mixture can
be made 8 hours ahead. Stir in ice,
then cover and chill. Add ginger beer
and prepare glasses just before serving.
Avocado Cups with
Pomegranate Salsa Verde
8 S E RV I N G S Chopping pomegranate
seeds breaks them up and releases their
vivid color into the dressing.
cup chopped cilantro
cup chopped mint
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped
pomegranate seeds
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. nely chopped preserved
lemon peel
Kosher salt
4 ripe avocados, halved, pits
removed
Flaky sea salt (for serving)
Mix cilantro, mint, oil, pomegranate
seeds, lemon juice, and preserved lemon
peel in a small bowl; season dressing
with salt. Spoon over and into avocados;
sprinkle with sea salt.
RadicchioStone Fruit Salad
Walnuts can get bitter if
8 S E RV I N G S
toasted too long, so remove them from the
oven as soon as they turn golden brown.
cup walnuts
2 small heads of radicchio, leaves
separated
4 ripe peaches or nectarines, sliced,
or 8 apricots, quartered
3 scallions, thinly sliced, divided
cup parsley leaves with tender
stems, divided
cup olive oil
cup fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
cup crumbled sheeps-milk cheese
or chvre
Preheat oven to 325. Toast walnuts on
a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until
golden brown, 710 minutes. Let cool,
then chop.
Combine radicchio, peaches, and half
of scallions, parsley, and walnuts in a
large bowl. Drizzle in oil and lemon juice
and toss to coat; season with salt and
pepper.
Add cheese and remaining scallions,
parsley, and walnuts to salad and gently
toss again to combine.
Grilled Carrots with
Cumin-Serrano Yogurt
8 S E RV I N G S Carrots love to burn when
grilled over direct high heat; better to
park them over a cooler spot on the grate
and keep the cover closed if possible.
3 lb. carrots with tops, scrubbed,
tops trimmed to 1"
2 bunches spring onions or
scallions, tops trimmed, halved
lengthwise
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Kosher salt
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 serrano chile, nely chopped, plus
more sliced for serving
1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
cup fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. chopped mint, plus leaves
for serving
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill or
mortar and pestle
Prepare a grill for medium-low heat. Toss
carrots and spring onions on a rimmed
baking sheet with 2 Tbsp. oil; season with
salt. Grill (covered if possible), turning
often and moving to a cooler part of
the grill if they are browning too quickly,
until crisp-tender, 1520 minutes.
Meanwhile, toast cumin in a dry small
skillet over medium heat, tossing often,
until slightly darkened and fragrant, about
2 minutes. Let cool; grind in spice mill or
with mortar and pestle. Mix in a medium
bowl with chopped serrano, yogurt,
lime juice, chopped mint, and remaining
2 Tbsp. oil; season with salt.
Spoon yogurt onto a platter; arrange
carrots and onions over. Top with mint
leaves and sliced chile.
D O A H E A D : Yogurt can be made
2 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Charred Sweet Potatoes
with Honey and Olive Oil
8 S E RV I N G S Japanese sweet potatoes
are starchier than yams and worth seeking
out (Whole Foods should have them).
Steaming before grilling keeps them moist.
8 small or 4 large Japanese sweet
potatoes
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
cup honey
cup white wine vinegar
Kosher salt
Flaky sea salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Rub
sweet potatoes with 2 Tbsp. oil and wrap
tightly in foilyou can wrap them on their
own or put 2 in each packet. Grill, turning
every 5 minutes or so, until tender, 3045
minutes. Unwrap and let cool slightly. (Or,
steam in a basket set over a pot filled with
1" of boiling water 3035 minutes. If not
using right away, let cool, then cover and
chill until ready to grillup to 2 days.)
Meanwhile, bring honey, vinegar,
and a big pinch of kosher salt to a boil in
a small saucepan over medium-high (you
can do this on the grill if you want), reduce
heat, and simmer until just beginning to
thicken, about 4 minutes. Keep warm.
Cut sweet potatoes in half lengthwise.
Rub cut surfaces with 1 Tbsp. oil total;
season with kosher salt. Grill, cut side
down, without turning, until lightly charred,
about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting
board and brush with honey glaze.
Arrange sweet potatoes on a platter
and drizzle with more glaze and
remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Season with sea
salt and pepper.
Celery Slaw with
Seeds and Dates
Even the most skeptical
8 S E RV I N G S
celery eaters will be surprised by the
cool, sweet, crunchy, and savory flavors
that are packed into this side dish.
P I C K L E D M U S TA R D S E E D S
cup brown mustard seeds
cup unseasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. sugar
tsp. kosher salt
S L A W A N D ASS E M B LY
1 small shallot, thinly sliced
cup olive oil
cup unseasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. sugar
Kosher salt
2 Persian cucumbers
1 bunch mature arugula, tough
stems trimmed (about 8 cups)
4 celery stalks, thinly sliced
on a diagonal, plus 1 cup
celery leaves
10 Medjool dates, sliced
Toasted sesame seeds (for
serving)
P I C K L E D M U S TA R D S E E D S Place mustard
seeds in a small heatproof jar or bowl.
Bring vinegar, sugar, and salt to a simmer
in a small saucepan over medium-high
heat, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt.
Pour brine over mustard seeds and let
cool, about 2 hours.
D O A H E A D : Mustard seeds can be
pickled 1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
S L A W A N D ASS E M B LYBring shallot and
oil to a simmer in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Cook 1 minute (watch it
carefully; you dont want the shallot to
take on any color). Let cool, then pour
oil through a fine-mesh sieve into a small
bowl; discard shallot.
Whisk shallot oil, vinegar, soy sauce,
and sugar in a small bowl to combine;
season vinaigrette with salt.
Trim ends from cucumbers and very
thinly slice lengthwise on a mandoline or
with a vegetable peeler or sharp knife into
long ribbons. Toss cucumbers, arugula,
celery, celery leaves, and dates in a large
bowl to combine.
Drizzle half of dressing over slaw and
add 2 Tbsp. drained pickled mustard
seeds (save remaining mustard seeds for
another use) and toss again to coat. Taste
and season with salt.
Transfer slaw to a platter and top with
sesame seeds. Serve with remaining
vinaigrette alongside.
D O A H E A D : Vinaigrette can be made
2 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to
room temperature before using.
Butterflied Chicken with
Herbs and Cracked Olives
Butterflying the chicken
8 S E RV I N G S
transforms a hard-to-grill round bird into
a compact, flat package that is easier to
crisp and cook through. See Prep School,
p. 97, for step-by-step instructions.
2 34-lb. chickens, backbones
removed
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
6 garlic cloves, nely grated
cup Aleppo-style pepper
cup nely chopped rosemary
cup olive oil, divided
1 cup Castelvetrano or other green
olives, pitted, torn
cup fresh lemon juice
cup chopped oregano
cup chopped parsley, plus leaves
for serving
The night before you plan to grill the
chickens, place them on a work surface,
breast side up, and open them up
against the surface as much as possible.
Using your palms, press firmly on
breastbone to flatten breast. You may
hear a crack. This means youre doing
it right. Set chickens, breast side up,
on a large rimmed baking sheet. Season
generously on both sides with salt and
black pepper. Chill, uncovered, at least
8 hours and up to 2 days.
Remove chickens from refrigerator and
set out on your counter. Combine garlic,
Aleppo-style pepper, rosemary, and
cup oil in a small bowl. Rub chickens
all over with mixture and let sit until room
temperature, 12 hours.
Prepare a grill for medium-high, indirect
heat (for a charcoal grill, bank coals on
one side of grill; for a gas grill, leave one
or two burners off). Set chickens, skin side
down, on grate over indirect heat. Cover
grill, placing cover vent (if your grill
has one) over chickens so it draws heat
up and over them. Grill, rotating chickens
as needed so that they color evenly, until
skins are lightly browned, 1520 minutes.
Turn chickens and continue to cook,
covered, until skins are deep golden
brown and crisp and an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest part
of breasts registers 160, 2025 minutes.
Transfer chickens to a cutting board and
let rest at least 10 minutes before carving.
Mix olives, lemon juice, oregano,
chopped parsley, remaining cup oil,
and any accumulated juices from chicken
on the cutting board in a medium bowl.
Season with salt.
To serve, arrange carved chickens
on a platter and top with olive mixture
and parsley leaves.
Ice Cream with Saffron
Oil and Sesame Wafer
8 S E RV I N G S Steeping saffron in hot
water releases its color and aroma
(see Prep School, p. 97, for more info).
If you want a pretty finisher without the
expense of saffron, use extra sesame
seeds. You can also make this dessert
gluten-free: Sub in 2 Tbsp. rice flour and
1 Tbsp. cornstarch for the flour in the wafer.
S E S A M E WA F E R
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. honey
tsp. kosher salt
3 Tbsp. all-purpose our
cup black and/or white
sesame seeds
ASS E M B LY
1 big pinch of saffron threads
cup olive oil
2 pints vanilla ice cream
S E S A M E WA F E R Preheat oven to 350.
Melt butter in a small saucepan over
medium heat. Remove from heat and mix
in sugar, honey, and salt, then flour. Add
sesame seeds.
Transfer dough to a parchment-lined
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.
rimmed baking sheet and flatten with
a spoon or offset spatula until dough is
no more than " thick. Bake until wafer
is golden brown and smells like caramel,
911 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet.
D O A H E A D : Wafer can be made
3 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped
at room temperature.
ASS E M B LY Place saffron in a small bowl
and pour in 1 tsp. boiling water. Let sit
until saffron is hydrated and releases its
color, 1012 minutes. Stir in oil.
Break wafer into large pieces. Scoop
ice cream into bowls; drizzle with saffron
oil and top with wafer.
ICE CREAM WITH
SAFFRON OIL AND
S E S A M E WA F E R

95
prep school

FROM P. 94

IN HOT
WATER
In general, spices should
be bloomedi.e., heated
briefly in a little bit of oil
to help release and magnify
their flavors. This is sound
advice for spices like cumin,
coriander, and mustard
seed, which are fat soluble.
Saffron, however, is water
soluble, which means it
should be soaked in hot
water for at least five minutes
to extract its complex
aromas, pungent bitterness,
and vibrant color. Since
its also the most expensive
Like staring spice in the world, you
into the sun deserve every last drop.
but, you N I K I TA R I C H A R D S O N
know, safer!

FROM P. 94

FOR THE BIRDS

Learning how to spatchcock
(a.k.a. butterfly) a chicken is
a total game changer. Removing
the backbone and flattening the
bird means you get all the
skin on one side (more crispiness!
Less flipping!), and the increased
surface area cooks way more
quickly. Bonus: Youre left with
1. 2. 3.
the backbone, which is great Place chicken breast side down Turn chicken breast side up and Tuck the wings behind the breasts
stock fodder. (Save them up in on a cutting board and use kitchen open it so that the cavity is lying as so they stay put and are less likely
the freezer for your next batch.) shears or a serrated knife to flat as possible. Press down firmly to burn when exposed to heat.
Heres how to get cracking. remove the backbone by cutting on center of breast to flatten. (You Now youre ready to season the bird
C H R I S M O R O C CO along both sides. may hear a crack; thats good!) (both sides) and get cooking.

P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY J U L Y 2 0 17 9 7
prep school

TEST KITCHEN TALK

Chris Morocco,
senior food editor

Rose water gets

So thats what a bad rap, partly
the inside
of a scallop because most
looks like! brands sold
here taste like
potpourri. Not so
with the boutique
stuff imported
FROM P. 82 from Iran by
Stories + Objects.
SHELL YEAH!
Its Persian Rose
Surprise: The translucent white knobs you see at the fish counter labeled sea scallops dont
come out of the ocean like that. Theyre actually the muscles that control the bivalves beautiful Water, made
fluted shells. If youre lucky enough to find these suckers in the shell, buy themtheyre actually from a special
much easier to shuck than oysters. Just follow these steps and youre golden. C L A I R E S A F F I T Z
variety of flowers,
is delicate and
complex. I use
it to lend a
subtle perfume
to macerated
berries, cakes,
and even punches.
Plus, the built-in
1. 2. 3.
With the flat side of the scallop Use your fingers to gather the Now that the scallop is exposed, dropper ensures
facing up, insert a butter knife weird stuff surrounding work a thin spoon underneath
the muscle and scrape carefully
that the potent
and scrape along the inside the white muscle (gills, digestive
of the flat shell until the muscle gland, egg sac, etc.) and pull to free it completely from elixir is deployed
the rounded side of the shell.
detaches. Unhinge the shell. firmly to remove. Discard. as it should be
sparingly.

GLUTENFREE* LOWGLUTEN GLUTEN

No Gluten? Know Gluten Almond/Nut Quinoa Barley Bran Freekeh

If youre gluten-freeor know folks who Amaranth Rice Rye Bulgur Graham
areit can be hard to remember which Buckwheat Sorghum Spelt Durum Kamut
alt-grains on shelves these days are safe. Corn Tapioca/ Einkorn Semolina
Struggling to keep them straight? Clip Cassava
Millet Emmer Triticale
this handy-dandy guide and tape it to your Teff
(or your moms!) fridge. AS H L E Y M AS O N Oat Farro Wheat

9 8 J U L Y 2 0 17
 FROM P. 68

Staff Pick:
Soy Milk
Not all soy milks
are created
equal: Some are
delicious, while
others are watery
or unpleasantly...
beany. Which
is why we tasted a
bunch of brands
to find our favorites.
A .M.

STAFF PICK: SILK

UNSWEE TENED

Silks creamy,
dreamy product
FOOD STYLING BY JUDY MANCINI. ILLUSTRATIONS: BRUCE HUTCHISON (CHICKEN, SCALLOP, MOROCCO); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (SOY MILK).

stands alone, both as

a beverage and
a key ingredient. Its
*PEOPLE WITH EXTREME GLUTEN INTOLERANCE SHOULD LOOK FOR PRODUCTS PROCESSED IN A DEDICATED GLUTENFREE FACILITY.

nutty richness and

luscious mouthfeel
are the closest match
to real cows milk,
partially thanks
to gellan gum,
a vegan-friendly
thickener that gives
it superior body.

RUNNERUP:
EDENSOY
UNSWEE TENED

For the purists,

theres Edensoy.
While it doesnt
have quite the same
luxurious texture
as Silk, the brand
delivers similar
creaminess and
appealingly clean
flavor with just
two ingredients:
purified water and
organic soybeans.
recipe index sourcebook
COOK THE COVER Shredded Chicken SHOPPING LIST SPRINGBONE KITCHEN 90 W. Third St.,
Creamy Hummus Salad with Creamy COOK LIKE A PRO: NYC; 646-368-9192; springbone.com
with Cumin p. 58 Miso Dressing p. 40 SUMMER EDITION pp. 5669 STANLEYS PHARMACY 31 Ludlow St.;
Smoky Saucy P. 57 SPRING LINEN NAPKIN $18; 646-476-9622; stanleyspharmacy.com
APPETIZERS
Chicken Wings p. 67 shopspring.com SUPERIORITY BURGER 430 E. Ninth St.;
Avocado Cups with P. 59 LOBMEYR GLASSWARE $60$166 212-256-1192; superiorityburger.com
Pomegranate Salsa SEAFOOD
each; abchome.com COOK LIKE A PRO:
Verde p. 93 Grilled Salmon
Creamy Hummus Collars p. 61 TRAVEL PLANNER SUMMER EDITION pp. 5669
with Cumin p. 58 Grilled Squid with EDITORS LETTER p. 10 ALS PLACE 1499 Valencia St., San Francisco;
CAF ALTRO PARADISO 234 Spring St., NYC; 415-416-6136; alsplacesf.com
Salmon Nduja with Chile Dressing and
646-952-0828; altroparadiso.com BAD HUNTER 802 W. Randolph St., Chicago;
Pickled Currants p. 14 Radishes p. 65
R.S.V.P. pp. 1214 312-265-1745; badhunter.com
BEVERAGES VEGE TARIAN THE DURHAM 315 E. Chapel Hill St., Durham, FOX BROS. BARBQ 1238 Dekalb Ave. NE,
Cold-Infused Chilled Ramen with NC; 919-768-8830; thedurham.com/dining/ Atlanta; 404-577-4030; foxbrosbbq.com
Blackberry-Pepper Soy Milk and Chili SITKA & SPRUCE 1531 Melrose Ave., Seattle; FRESAS CHICKEN AL CARBON
Soda p. 59 Oil p. 68 206-324-0662; sitkaandspruce.com 1703 S. First St.; Austin; 512-992-2946;
Rosy Boa Cocktail Pasta Salad with STARTERS pp. 1724 fresaschicken.com
p. 93 Spring Vegetables CASSIA 1314 Seventh St., Santa Monica, CA; HARTS 506 Franklin Ave., Brooklyn;
SOUP and Tomatoes p. 52 310-393-6699; cassiala.com 718-636-6228; hartsbrooklyn.com
Chilled Ramen with VEGETABLES, CHEESE & CRACK SNACK SHOP 22 SE KISMET 4648 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles;
Soy Milk and Chili SIDE DISHES 28th Ave., Portland, OR; 503-206-7315; 323-409-0404; kismetlosangeles.com
Oil p. 68 Celery Slaw with cheeseandcrack.com NAKAMURA 172 Delancey St.,
Seeds and Dates DIRTY PRECIOUS 317 Third Ave., Brooklyn; NYC; 212-614-1810; nakamuranyc.com
SALADS
p. 94 646-685-4481; dirtyprecious.com OBERLIN 186 Union St., Providence, RI;
Celery Slaw with HERES LOOKING AT YOU 3901 W.
Seeds and Dates Charred Sweet 401-588-8755; oberlinrestaurant.com
Sixth St., Los Angeles; 213-568-3573; P.Y.T. 400 S. Main St., Los Angeles;
p. 94 Potatoes with Honey
hereslookingatyoula.com
Pasta Salad with and Olive Oil p. 93 213-687-7015; pytlosangeles.com
LITTLE DONKEY 505 Massachusetts Ave.,
Spring Vegetables Grilled Carrots with SEATTLE SELTZER CO. 404 Occidental Ave. S,
Cambridge, MA; 617-945-1008;
and Tomatoes p. 52 Cumin-Serrano Seattle; 206-399-6785; seattleseltzer.com
littledonkeybos.com
Radicchio-Stone Fruit Yogurt p. 93 SEAWORTHY 630 Carondelet St., New TUSK 2448 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR;
Salad p. 93 Orleans; 504-930-3071; seaworthynola.com 503-894-8082; tuskpdx.com
MISCELLANEOUS
Savory Peach and Bacon-Fat Flour ZAK THE BAKER 295 NW 26th St., Miami; THE GREAT BRITISH DAY OFF
pp. 7077
Cucumber Salad Tortillas p. 61 786-294-0876; zakthebaker.com
p. 67 COOMBESHEAD FARM Lewannick;
DINNER TONIGHT p. 3642 +44-15-6678-2009; coombesheadfarm.co.uk
Shredded Chicken DESSERTS
CASSIA 1314 Seventh St., Santa Monica, CA;
Salad with Creamy Boozy Concord- GURNARDS HEAD Nr. Zennor, St. Ives;
310-393-6699; cassiala.com
Miso Dressing p. 40 Grape Ice Pops p. 69 +44-17-3679-6928; gurnardshead.co.uk
CITY GUIDES:
Steak with Watercress Chocolate Cookie THE HIDDEN HUT Porthcurnick Beach,
HEALTHYISH NYC pp. 4649
Salad p. 36 Ice Cream Portscatho; hiddenhut.co.uk
ABCV 38 E. 19th St.; 212-475-5829;
Sandwiches p. 32 abchome.com/eat/abcv THE LIFEBOAT HOUSE The Cove, Coverack;
MAIN COURSES +44-13-2628-1400; thelifeboathouse.co.uk
Ice Cream with ABRACADABRA 347 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn;
MEAT Saffron Oil and MACKEREL SKY The Bridge, New Road,
347-844-9157; abracadabrabrooklyn.com
Garlic-Chile Ground Sesame Wafer p. 94 Newlyn; mackerelskycafe.co.uk
DE MARIA 19 Kenmare St.; 212-966-3058;
Pork p. 38 POLPEOR CAFE Lizard Point, Lizard;
Lime Posset with demarianyc.com
Lamb Burgers with Lychees p. 42 DIMES 49 Canal St.; 212-925-1300; +44-13-2629-0939
Fennel Slaw p. 62 dimesnyc.com ROCK POOL The Parade, Mousehole;
Oatmeal Cookie Ice
Pork Chop with Cream Sandwiches THE GOOD SORT 5 Doyers St.; +44-17-3673-2645; rockpoolmousehole.co.uk
Radishes and 646-895-9301; thegoodsortnyc.com STEINS FISH & CHIPS South Quay, Padstow;
p. 30
Charred Scallions LESTUDIO 61 Hester St.; 212-477-2427; +44-18-4153-2700; rickstein.com
p. 12 lestudiony.com TREVERRA FARM COTTAGE Rock;
Steak with Watercress FOR NUTRITIONAL LIFETHYME 410 Sixth Ave.; 212-420-1600; +44-77-6969-1700; ckrock.com
Salad p. 36 INFO FOR THE lifethymemarket.com W. STEVENSON & SONS LTD Harbour
RECIPES IN THIS Offices, Newlyn; +44-17-3636-2998;
POULTRY MODERN LOVE BROOKLYN 317
ISSUE, GO TO
Butterflied Chicken Union Ave., Brooklyn; 929-298-0626; newlynfreshfish.co.uk
BONAPPETIT.COM
with Herbs and /RECIPES modernlovebrooklyn.com WOODS CAFE Cardinham Woods, Bodmin;
Cracked Olives p. 94 SOUEN 326 E. Sixth St.; 212-388-1155; souen.net +44-12-0878-111; woodscafecornwall.co.uk

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1 0 6 J U L Y 2 0 17
 T H E L AS T B I T E

Scarlett Johansson
Whats your
go-to movie snack?

Once you
pop

THE VITALS

Hometown
New York City
Favorite fancy
popcorn flavor
Canadian maple
Current
vacation plans
Road-tripping
through Vermont
Standard
summer meal
Steamed clams
with ros and
grilled sourdough

PHOTOGRAPH: AILA IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

We have to assume that French cinemas Johanssons sole contribution to

frown on bringing in outside food and beverages
just like American multiplexes do, but Parisian film-
goers, take note: You have Scarlett Johanssons permission
to stuff kettle corn down your shirts. I encourage it! Im a big
believer in smuggling, says the actress and entrepreneur. I might be
a snob, but Id rather eat gourmet popcorn. Johanssons permissive
attitudejust mightreveal an ulterior motive; late last year she opened
Yummy Pop, a boutique popcorn shop in the Marais district, after
noticing a growing American snack-food trend in France. Of course,
contraband bags of truffle Parmesan and Canadian maple arent
the summer blockbuster season. This
month she stars inRough Night, a dark
comedy about a Miami bacheloret te
party gone awry. She thinks the movie pairs
well with her other concession-stand essentials: a
nice box of Raisinets and a giant Cherry Coke. Johansson does
draw the line, however, at one heavier, Day-Glo offering: Id avoid
that orange nacho cheese at all costs. To eat that and then sit for
two hours? Thats the kind of thing you need to walk off. Eat that
stuff while youre vertical. D AV I D WA LT E R S

1 0 8 J U L Y 2 0 17