ISSN 1853-9610

N87 OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2017

On the Rocks
Climbing
in Mendoza

Winery Guide - Restaurants - Maps

w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c . c o m 1
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 CONTENTS
News Republic Out & About
The Great Wine Crisis 2017................................... 6 Bars............................................................................... 22
A Big Day Out.............................................................. 6 Dining out.................................................................. 24
Tha Asians are coming............................................. 6 Winery Guide........................................................... 26

Scrum in the Sun Maps & More

Rugby returns to Mendoza.................................... 8 Useful information.................................................. 20
Map of Mendoza City Center............................... 30
The Rise and Fall of Rock Climbing Map of Maip............................................................ 32
Charlie OMalley gets to grip swith bouldering... Map of Chacras de Coria........................................ 34
12 Map of San Martn Park......................................... 34
Estrella de Los Andes
Train tracks and nostalgia, Gabriela Raimondo
visits a winery that evokes simpler times. ............ 16

CREDITS
Issue OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2017 -
ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie OMalley

Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Cover illustration: Donough OMalley
Contributing writers: Gabriela Raimondo - James
Dossor - Gilda isoardi
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not

necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine
Republic www.wine-republic.com

Pag 12 Pag 8 Pag 16

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 NEWS REPUBLIC
The Great Wine Crisis 2017
The crisis in the Argentine wine industry continues and
is in fact getting worse. Exports are down 13% from last
year and Malbec is in fact disappearing off the shelves
in some countries as it just cannot compete in price
with New Zealand Pinot Noir and Australian Shiraz.
Compounding this sorrowful tale is the fact that the local
market has also collapsed. Sales of red wine alone are
down a whopping 18%, also due to high prices. If this
wasnt bad enough, what is really making local wine
makers weep into their tanks is the fact that the domestic
market is now flooded with cheap Chilean wine. Some
40 million litres have been imported this year alone,
destined for the lower end of the market in Tetrapaks
and vino de mesa. The domestic market was always a
sure thing for local producers, a safe haven in times of
trouble. Now that rug has been pulled from under their
feet one can only wonder what next?

A Big Day Out

Alandes is one of Mendozas most beautiful wineries.
Constructed in 1904, its Old World design of adobe walls
and shady galleries and courtyards offers a welcome
respite from the hot Maipu sun. Whilst the winery offers
a step back in time the wines themselves are a glimpse
of the future. Winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie combines
modernity with tradition and the result are 90 plus
wines such Altocedro Reserva Malbec and adventurous
labels such as the five grape Paradoux Blend. If you are
in Mendoza on October 28th, be sure to make your way
to the winery for an open day of limitless wine, food and
live music, ending with a charity auction. The winery is
easily reachable by bus or taxi several blocks from the
main wine street Urquiza in Maipu.
Alandes, Gomez Adriano 3602, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel.
(261)4813201. Whatsapp: +5492614668048

The Asians are Coming

Recently Mendoza police controls have been asking
tourists to produce their passports whilst touring the
high mountains near Aconcagua. This is a new thing
and a considerable inconvenience to visitors and tour
companies as a belligerent police officer can hold up a
bus load of tourists for a considerable time whilst they
try to dig out their documents or explain they do not
have them. When asked why the sudden insistent on
passports, one officer replied it was to thwart to wave
of illegal asiaticos crossing the mountains. If hordes of
Chinamen are crossing the Andes, they are doing so with
incredible discretion as nobody else has noticed.

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 Scrum
in the
Rugby returns to Mendoza when the Wallabies meet the Pumas in October.
James Dossor gives the breakdown on what is an exciting International tournament.
After the strange decision of the Argentine Rugby
Union (UAR) to take their home game to London
last year, sense has prevailed and the national side,
los Pumas, will return to Argentina to play their last
match of the Rugby Championship on October 7. The
Rugby Championship is run by a body represented by
South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and Argentina or
SANZAAR and the competition comprises of these four
Southern Hemisphere powerhouses playing each other
once at home and once away. It is arguably the most
difficult rugby tournament in the world that boasts all
four semi finalists in the most recent Rugby World Cup
in 2015. Not only is the standard extremely high, there
is a very taxing travel schedule that makes the burden
of jet lag an important factor also.
As in 2015, the Pumas will be taking on the Australian
team in Mendoza and current form would suggest it is
anyones game. The locals have been underwhelming
in recent times. However, this also coincides with
very erratic performances from the Wallabies over
the last two years. Even though Argentina is generally
the lower ranked of the four, a visit to South America
is never an easy task for the away side. Mendoza has
proven to be a happy hunting ground for the Pumas so
Im sure they will be glad to return to the land of sun
and good wine with a record of a draw against South
Africa and a win against Australia in the last four
matches played here.
8
Sun
The 2007 Rugby World Cup performance by Argentina,
a very commendable third place, was the catalyst for
Argentina to be invited into what was previously
known as the Tri-Nations. Prior to 2012 rugby was still
officially an amateur sport and the Pumas had to make
do with one-off test matches against countries either
willing to travel to Argentina or play in Europe where
all of the professional players resided at the time. Since
entering the Rugby Championship, Argentina has
enjoyed the highest quality rugby on their doorstep
which, despite mixed success on the field, has helped
boost rugby to arguably the second most popular sport
in the country (of course no sport is going to take the
number one mantle from soccer any time soon). Up
until 2015, things had been ticking along quite nicely
but this wouldnt be Argentina without throwing some
sort of spanner in the works.
The UAR has recently made changes to eligibility
rules. To play for the Pumas you must also play your
club rugby in Argentina. The very small professional
opportunities that exist here though are based mainly
around the Jaguares, a newly formed team who
compete in the Super Rugby tournament with the
other SANZAAR based teams. This has caused much
consternation amongst players here because the larger
squad of the Jaguares is basically the same as the
Pumas. This means a very long season for all involved
as well as the representative nature of the Pumas
being partly eroded. Coupled with much lower wages
9
than what is on offer in Europe, it is no surprise to see
many of the better players going for the cash. The idea Los Pumas - Wallabies/ 21 - 17- 10/4/14
of forgoing the opportunity to play for the national
side must be difficult, however it isnt just the dollars
luring the talent. Those who play a full season will end
up circumnavigating the planet at least twice and will
probably tour Europe as well. This means a lot of time
away from home and if youre a fringe player you may
not even get much game time on the field. There are
challenges aplenty for SANZAAR to confront in the
coming years to find the best formula for Southern
Hemisphere rugby but for now most Argentine rugby
Credits: Lanacion.com.ar
fans are happy to see the highest quality rugby here on
an annual basis.

Los Pumas have a very proud history and they are head
and shoulders above the rest of the Spanish speaking
world. Although Uruguay, Chile and Spain have very
competitive teams in the so called third tier of rugby
nations, it will be a long time before any of these
countries challenge Argentina at full strength. While
Argentina can play a very helpful role in spreading
the rugby gospel around South America by assisting
with coaching and being involved with development
competitions, the real challenge for rugby here is to
harness the relatively large and talented amateur
player base into a formidable professional force to be
reckoned with. This will mean Argentina will have to
provide relevant pathways for promising youngsters to
make a career in rugby. With the current structure it is
hard to see this happening and relying on Super rugby
and SANZAAR could be a risky venture. Is it perhaps
time for UAR to set up a professional competition?
The challenge of integrating the large popular Buenos
Aires base with the scattered provinces would be an
obvious obstacle as it is with any venture in Argentina lines up a shot at goal in Ireland. Well, you can
but the question of dinero and sponsorship would expect that also here when the home team is kicking,
also be crucial. However, with the professional rugby however, the same courtesy isnt afforded to the away
landscape changing so quickly, UAR had better have side as the crowd proceeds to bombard the kicker with
some sort of plan B, lest they be left behind. For now jeers and whistles to truly test ones concentration. Not
though we can be content with being able to watch the really in the spirit of rugby but it does give Argentina
best teams on the planet compete right here. a unique aspect to the international game. The jovial
nature of the crowd is all part of the fun but generally
Rugby has many great traditions around the world those attending know their rugby and your life isnt in
when international matches are played, a particular danger for wearing the away side jersey like it can be
favorite of mine being the dead silence while a kicker in most football matches here!

Credits: Lanacion.com.ar

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 The Rise and Fall
of Rock Climbing
Charlie OMalley gets to grips with bouldering.
Contributor Gilda Isoardi
Its official, rock climbing is cool. The sports recent
inclusion in the Tokyo Olympics means the once oddball
pursuit has finally abseiled with style down to main street.
Expect the World to watch agog in 2020 as human ants
cling, scramble and race over colorful carbuncles with the
occasional heart stopping fall. Climbing is expected to add
some newcomer sparkle to Tokyo, much the same as BMX
did at Beijing in 2008.
The stamp of Olympic approval was inevitable. The
proliferation of indoor rock walls in gyms and sports
centres around the World indicate just how popular the
sport has become. It is all the more remarkable as the first
recorded competition only took place in 1985 in Italy and
the World Cup in rock climbing is only 18 years old.
Yet not all aficionados are exactly stoked about the
Olympic move. They fear what was a free-wheeling,
adventurous activity with no rules will now become
crippled with regulation, officialdom and commercial
exploitation. Part of rock climbings appeal is the fact it
is unfettered by rules and fees. Many people might even
argue it is not just a sport, more a performance art with
minimalist and spiritual aspirations. One that requires
monumental physical and mental strength.
So what is it exactly? Good old Wikipaedia defines it as
the following: Rock climbing is an activity in which
participants climb up, down or across natural rock
formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the
summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-
defined route without falling.
12
The sport has many different styles and sub-disciplines,
the most famous of which is free climbing without the
use of ropes. The new Olympic medal involves three
categories lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering
(relatively short heights over padded mats). It is indicative
of just how much climbing has evolved with so many
different facets that many criticise the Olympic definition
as way to narrow and restrictive.
For example the Worlds most famous rock climber Alex
Honnold will not be competing. He is famous for climbing
the 3000 feet cliff El Capitan in Yosemite without ropes.
He argues that in comparison with the Olympics, his
challenges are on a grander scale and never indoors.
For him to participate in the tournament would be like
putting an ultra-marathonist in a 100-meter sprint.
If anything the debate has revealed just how diverse the
pasttime of climbing has become. There is a World of
difference between the teeth chattering endurance of
climbing Aconcagua to the mental zen required on a rock
face without ropes.
Yet indoor climbing will create its own stars. Argentina
fared remarkably well at the recent Sport Climbing
World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria. 16-year old Valentina
Aguado came second in bouldering. She comes from the
neighbouring province of San Luis and her talent and
enthusiasm is indicative of the strong and passionate
following rock climbing has in Argentina.
13
Mendoza makes a happy hunting ground for climbers
with numerous cliff faces drawing thousands of followers
throughout the year. Local pioneers first set out the now
numerous routes in the 1990s and they must rue the day
they could do it in splendid isolation. Technology and
media have changed the face of climbing and it seems
rock climbing , for good or for bad, has finally been taken
into the fold.

Where to Rock Climb in Mendoza

Outdoors

Arenales
Two hours south of Mendoza, near Manzano Historico, is a
multi-colored, granite faced valley that offers a multitude
of rock climbing opportunities that include aid climbing
and bouldering. Reputedly the best place in Central
Argentina with a wide variety of grades. Recommended
is the 300-meter cliff face El Cajon de los Arenales. Be
sure to register with the park rangers at the entrance to
the valley and avail of the free camping.

La Frazada
Located close San Rafael city, three hours south of Credits: en.fonditos.com
Mendoza city, there is a beautiful canyon with over 100
climbing routes over different types of rock. Here you
can do traditional climbing and bouldering. Be sure not Indoor.
to sleep overnight in the canyon as it is prone to flooding.
Club Andinista
Cacheuta Sur Beltran 317, Guaymallen (close to Mendoza bus terminal)
Located 40 minutes south of the city, Agua de Avispas is Mendoza
easily the most accessible rock face from the city. There Tel. 431 9870.
are approximately 20 routes over basalt surfaces and the
grades are easy to mid difficulty. El Muro
Perito Moreno 429.
Rock climbing operators. Godoy Cruz
If you don{t have the means to go solo, try Argentina Mendoza (20 minutes in taxi from the city center).
Rafting or Andes Vertical.

Arenales El Muro

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 Estrella
de los Andes

Train tracks and nostalgia, Gabriela Raimondo visits a

winery that evokes simpler times.
Estrella de los Andes was founded in 2010 by three
partners from Buenos Aires. They found an abandoned
building that was over 100 years old and decided to
remodel it, whilst retaining its soul. The building has
a colonial style; thick walls and cane roofs, that have
endured Mendozas constant seismic tremors. The
capacity of the winery is 2 million litres but can be as
much as 3 million if they have a bumper harvest. Lucas
Moran has been the head winemaker for the past seven
years and he is enthusiastic and passionate about this
intriguing project.
they use. Their top wine, Estrella Negra has won several
competitions worldwide as well as Pont LEvque Legende
which also belongs to the winerys portfolio. Pont LEvque
Perons favorite wine back in the day has new varieties
and even a sparkling variation. Several of the labels
display cars and Lucas continues the tour into a huge
hangar where that inspiration came from. The owners are
hardcore fierreros as we say in Spanish or car aficionados
in English and they have a very impressive car collection.
The cars and trucks are classic models that have been
improved without modifying the beautiful old exterior.

As one walks through the different areas of the winery, The last stop is the most interesting, the lab, where
you can see it is a blend of tradition and technology that the winemakers work their magic. Here, we try a little
makes the winery stand out. Lucas stops at a curious tank, surprise, fermented plum juice as you cannot apply the
which is half cement and half glass. The idea was to show
the fermentation but it has been even more useful. They
now use it to practice what technique of pumping-over Lucas Moran
works best. Pumping over, also known as remontage, is
the process of pumping must from the bottom of the tank
and splashing it over the top. The purpose is to sink the
skins and seeds that form a cap to macerate with the must
and extract the color and aromas. The new employees
spend a considerable amount of time during harvest
watching the tank and learning. It is a fun activity for
tourists as well.

Lucas Moran prefers to fermentation at low temperatures

to enhance the aromas. It certainly makes a difference
when you try the wines. The bouquet is superb. The
tasting room is the winerys cellar where you can see
just a few of the American and French oak barrels
17
term wine to anything else than fermented grape juice.
Again, the bouquet was beautiful. Lucas was asked to do
it by the owners of the winery and after several attempts;
he was able to present them with a delicious sample that
just sells out rapidly because of its novelty and quality.

Train Bliss
Prmula Cantina Ferroviaria:

The winery restaurant is small, genuine and honest

to the history of Mendoza. It is a homage to Mendozas
railway heritage. Argentinas rail network was once one
of the largest in the Americas. The restaurant is located
right alongside the old train tracks that carried most of
the population back in the 19th century and the train
theme is present everywhere you look. The chef, Emiliano
Schenone, says there is still a cargo train that rattles the
whole place as it passes by. The cantina is the Argentinean
version of a 50s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed and it
immediately transports you back to the good old days.
If you want to have the complete experience, you can
have your lunch in an old restored wagon. The setting
is not pretentious and nor is the food. The menu consists
of three courses with 3 to 4 options in every course. The
options change every week according to the season and
the availability of local products.

The essence of the cantina is the Mendocino identity,

easygoing and traditional. Theres no rush to finish your meal
and go. You can stay, drink and eat to your hearts content.

The food is delightful, abundant and tasty. One of the main

attractions is the huge grill and mud oven on the outside. The
smell alone can bring a crowd of hungry tourists. You can
even practice your hand as DJ there is a bountiful collection
of vinyl records and several record players. To start off your
meal, you can order one of their amazing Cinzano drinks.
Argentineans have very strong bonds with Italian culture,
especially Mendoza. There is no wonder Cinzano sponsors
the cantina as it is a match made in heaven. And of course
the wine list showcases the winerys wines.

Estrella de los Andes is indeed a bright star in the Southern

hemisphere. It is filled with fond memories one can enjoy in the
present with family and friends..
To make a reservation, call 261 2213899 from Tuesday to
Sunday and holidays from 11am to 18 pm

Thumbtack Space
The art on display is the work of Tachuela (Thumbtack) Dela. He was
born in Entre Rios but has lived in Mendoza for a very long time. His rock
sculptures are mesmerizing. The materials he uses are rock, iron, wood, even
air. He has a workshop inside the winery where he keeps past sculptures and
art but most importantly, where he keeps reinventing himself and breaking
stereotypes.
He comments that his latest art installation right in the middle of his
workshop, was meant to have an effect on the viewers emotions through
not only the art but the aromas and lighting of the setting.
Hes currently developing several projects.
To tour the winery and Tachuelas Open Studio, call 261 4649190 from
Tuesday to Sunday at 12am and 16pm

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 BARS
INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue,
the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by
the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide
you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even get started
until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE
This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a
young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool
posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin
Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a
kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer.
Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEP
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-
style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-
owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-
video montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.
HANGAR 52
www.believeirishpub.com.ar
This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe
with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing
rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth,
well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties
to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service
ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinkers curse in
Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables,
resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly
become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip.
Aristides 168.

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 BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU

The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171,
172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious
for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a
puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu
is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus
Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning
have a late lunch at the excellent El Enemigo.

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not
ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with
your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout &
Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at
restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and
internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can
get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an
easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper.
Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home.
Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables
Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and
eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel
(261) 641 6047.

CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria
Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are
preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the dolr informal on
www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

23
 DINING OUT
MENDOZA
CITY
La Patrona
Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a
casual, rustic charm attracts with
traditional Argentine food and
friendly and warm atmosphere.
Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado
go with warm, open sandwiches. We
recommend the artichoke hearts
and goat cheese; roasted vegetables
with white wine and honey; or the
more traditional pick of rich glands
cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel
- 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm-
3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal
cost: $220.
Josefina
Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina
Rest is an island of elegance on
hectic Aristides Street. The building
is a playful mix of the urbane and
the natural. The warmth of vintage
style drawings adorning the walls
are illuminated through large,
handsome street windows. The
food is eclectic and seasonal. www.
josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides
Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500,
Argentina Tel. 261 4233531
El Mercadito
The perfect spot for some lunch time
sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by
three friends, El Mercadito has a cool
vibe and relaxed music making it a
favorite. Opening in the morning for
24
Recommended
healthy breakfasts and antioxidants
juices, El Mercadito stays open
throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads
and some Argentine classic meals.
Aristides Villanueva 521.
Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190.
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel
- 4962267.
Los Toneles
Los Toneles
Located 15 minutes walk beyond the
city center, this handsome historical
winery offers Old World elegance
and atmosphere. The expansive
restaurant serves traditional dishes
with a gourmet twist and its the
perfect lunch or dinner spot for those
who have just arrived and want
some genuine Mendocino ambience .
Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel -
431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday
lunch and dinner.
El Mercadito
Grill Q
Grill Q
Chic parrilla style restaurant (part
of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open
kitchen. Famous for grilled meats
and gigantic empanadas, and serves
hearty Argentine classics such as
locro a stew that hails back to
the early independence days. The
Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,
offers a more gourmet evening menu
and the most exuberant lunch menu
in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
M - Executive Menu $280.
Josefina Brod
Charming bakery coffee shop with
expansive courtyard set in old
colonial townhouse one block from
Plaza Independencia. Excellent for
light lunches and battery charging
coffee stops. Great wine selection
next door at Winery wine store
can be purchased and sampled in
courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993.
 DINING OUT Recommended

Ruca Malen

OUTSIDE Ruca Malen winery is synonymous

with gourmet food & wine pairings

THE CITY in Mendoza and was a pioneer in

Finca Agostino
Elegance, history and the perfect
marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at
the restaurant of Finca Agostino
winery. The overall vibe is polished
and handsome. The food is equally
majestic 5 courses of well thought,
imaginative dishes that are paired
exquisitely with all the winery wines
often explained and described
by the chef Sergio Guardia. The
menu is seasonal with much of the
ingredients freshly picked from the
propertys organic vegetable garden
and orchard. Carril Barrancas 10590,
Maip. Tel - 5249358. Avg. meal
price: $650 pesos.
this area. Having lunch in Ruca
Malen is also a visual experience,
from the food served in creative
plates designed especially for the
occasion by local craftsmen to the
breathtaking view one gets of the
Andes and the vineyard. It also offers
great vegetarian and gluten-free
options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261
553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236.
mendoza@bodegarucamalen.com
Los Negritos
Family-owned restaurant in the
rustic splendor of Las Vegas in
Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This
is without doubt the best restaurant
in the mountains, specializing in
traditional family recipes that add
a new twist to Andean fare such as
humitas, tomatican and mondongo.
The restaurant itself is simple and
modern with no frills, but the food of
course. Open weekends and public
holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg
$250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas,
Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431.
AlPasin
AlPasin
Elegance and luxury are combined
with breath taking views at what
is the latest hotel and restaurant in
the stunning Uco Valley. Traditional
dishes with the accent on season
are served in a light filled dining
room with red leather seats, bare
rafters and stone walls shadowed by
snowcapped peaks. The overall vibe
is comfort and elegance with an open
fireplace for those chilly high altitude
nights. Avg. meal price: $400 pesos.
Ruta Prov. No 94. Las Chacayes,
Tunuyan. Tel. +54 9 2613202999.
www.alpasion.com.ar.

La Azul
A pioneer in the Uco Valley region,
this boutique winery now offers
hearty lunches in a rustic setting with
stunning views of the mountains.
Family-owned , the owners are often
your hosts and they take pride in
serving giant portions of excellent
beef and pork dishes, accompanied
by the winerys excellent, high
Finca Agostino altitude wines. Popular, authentic
and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to
Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato.
Lunch in a Winery Tel - (02622) 423 593. La Azul

Whatever you do in Mendoza,

make sure to have lunch in a
winery. There is nothing quite
like sitting back to a long line of
wine glasses holding delicious
Chardonnay, Torrontes, Malbec
and Cabernet Sauvignon
(amongst others), accompanied
by the finest, gourmet food
Argentina has to offer. The icing
on the cake is that icing on the
Andes in the background and the
lush green vines of the vineyard.
It is definitely the most civilised
way to get drunk on the planet.
Restaurant Lares de Chacras
One of Mendozas most charming
boutique wine hotels has now opened
its excellent restaurant to the general
public. Located in the picturesque
wine village of Chacras de Coria,
a 20 minute drive from the city,
Lares offers traditional local dishes
in a rustic deluxe environment.
Every Wednesday they offer asado,
Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras
de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www.
laresdechacras.com/
Terruo-Club Tapiz
Tucked away among the sprawling
Maip vineyards lies Club Tapiz
Resort and its lovely restaurant
Terruo. This handsome eatery
boasts an elegant interior, excellent
service and a wine list that is sure
to please even the most finicky of
wine snobs. Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
Tel: 496 0131. www.tapiz.com Lunch,
every day, 12pm 3pm. Dinner, Sun
-Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $450 pesos.

25
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo
CITY
Clos de Chacras
Charming boutique operation with
nice history. A five minute walk
from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran
Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706.
Monte Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.closdechacras.com.ar
Terrazas de los Andes
The fine wine sister of Chandon
Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Best Wine: Cheval de los
Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames
and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com
Terrazas de los Andes
Luigi Bosca
The Arizu dynasty are the royal
family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. (0261)
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor
Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
luigibosca.com.ar
Catena Zapata
Showcase winery designed like
a Mayan temple overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com
26
Maip
Los Toneles
City Center winery Los Toneles
has a charming Old World feel
and excellent restaurant. It is a
five minute walk east of the bus
station.Direccin: Acceso Este
Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza.
(0261) 431-0403. Open everyday.
www.bodegalostoneles.com
LUJN
DE CUYO
Melipal
Great Malbec and gourmet lunches
make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.
com.ar
Mendel
An old style winery ran by one of
Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar
Via Cobos
American winemaker Paul Hobbs
was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com
Ciudad
Lujn de Cuyo
Maip
Valle de Uco
Tapiz
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-
end restaurant Terruo and an
instructive wine tour including
barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490
0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32.
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz.
com
Valle de Uco
Los Toneles
Cruzat
A boutique traditional sparkling wine
producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa
Flores, s/n, Perdriel,
www.bodegacruzat.com
Alta Vista
Masterful mix of modern and
traditional. Tasting includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
Matervini
Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago
Achaval and Robert Cipresso,
break new, exciting ground with
rich, mineral wines from unusual
terroirs. This tiny, boutique
operation only sells from the
winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com.
Tel. 261 5616691.
Belasco de Baquedano
Gleaming modern facility with
fascinating aroma room and restaurant
with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
belascomalbec.co
Belasco de Baquedano
Nieto Senetiner
Located in a beautiful old winery
in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
in 1888 and makes a great range of
wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496
9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.
com.ar
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City
Benegas Lynch
Rich history and richer wines. Lovely
old bodega with lots of character.
Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261)
496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra.
www.bodegabenegas.com
Caelum
Modern, medium size winery on
the main road to Chile just before
the mountains and has a nice
family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar
Dominio del Plata
Argentinas most famous female
winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in the
heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar
Renacer
Dominio del Plata
This Chilean-owned winery creates
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tours that include
a hands-on lesson in blending.
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo.
(0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www.
bodegarenacer.com.ar
Lagarde
Owner of the oldest white wine in
South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100
year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext.
27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745,
Mayor Drummond. Lujn de Cuyo.
www.lagarde.com.ar
Casarena
A beautiful mix of old and new,
this winery mixes tradition and
modernity in an old style winery
with a super modern restaurant with
splendid views of the vineyards and
mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel.
www.casarenawines.com (261)
6967848.
Casarena
Restaurant
Carmelo Patti
Mendozas most famous garagista.
Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Best
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.
Decero
Attractive, modern facility with
spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com
Vistalba
Tasting room where one entire wall
is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400.
Roque Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba.
www.carlospulentawines
Vistalba
Budeguer
Modern-style Budeguer winery
offers you the chance to blend
wine and art in a warm and relaxed
atmosphere. Its superb terrace is
open until 8pm and it is the perfect
spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying
the sunset. Reservations required
at turismo@budeguer.com or (0261)
6830749- www.budeguer.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.
Achaval Ferrer
Modern boutique close to Mendoza
riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com
Kaiken
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses
a new venture by the prestigious
Chilean winery Montes. Big and
powerful wines, destined for fame.
(0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile
(0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155
509 453)
Lodging Art Gallery
Chandon
The original foreign investor, French-
owned Chandon has been making
great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Chandon
Ruca Malen
Excellent food, great guiding and
first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary experience. (0261)
5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km
1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com
Estrella de los Andes
Old World winery and canteen style
restaurant with a railway theme.
Simple and authentic.
Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190
info@bodegaestrelladelosandes.com
Kaiken
Dante Robino
Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old-
style winery with a modernist, light-
filled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com
Familia Cassone
A charming, family owned winery
in a beautiful setting. Try the
jasmine tinted ros amidst the
pastoral splendour of the owners
expansive garden. Anchorena y
Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www.
familiacassone.com.ar
27
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo
Septima
A beautifully designed winery with
clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com
Pulenta Estate
Cool minimalist design and rich
complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Best Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com
Trez Wines
Three friends making award
winnning wine in a small, circular
winery.Tel.4877085y
+54 9 2616854019.
turismo@trezwines.com
Don Manuel Villafae 25
Modern winery in the wide open
vineyards of southern Maip.
Intense, complex wines. Art
exhibition all year long. Ruta 60
s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maip. (0261)
5083067. www.dmvwines.com
Finca Agostino
Elegant and picturesque winery
with ancient vines and walled
orchard. Offer superb lunches and
cookery classes. Carril Barrancas
10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www.
ncaagostino.com
FincaAgostino
Agostino
Finca
Familia Zuccardi
A professional, far-sighted operation.
Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com
28
Maip
Alpamanta
Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set
in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com
MAIPU
Rutini / La Rural
Well-stocked museum with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant
oak tanks stand in large, cavernous
halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125.
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito,
Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar
Lopez
Popular, old-style winery with two
museums on the wine. Restaurant
offers gourmet cuisine with a
panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554.
Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.
www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial
Trapiche
Argentinas biggest winery is a
mix of old and new, traditional and
industrial, and has the old train
tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520
7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip.
www.trapiche.com.ar
El Enemigo
One of Argentinas most talented
winemakers Alejandro Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261)
697 4213
Casa El Enemigo
Valle de Uco
Catena Zapata
Showcase winery designed like
a Mayan temple overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com
Norton
Old-style cellars contrast with a high-
tech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261)
490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar
AMP Cava
Premium wines made from different
terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city make
it a recommended visit. Gmez Adriano
3602. Coquimbito. Maip -
(261) 4813201/4668048
Tempus Alba 4
Charming family run winery with
modern facilities and terrace with a
view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel.
4813501. www.tempusalba.com.
Carinae
Small, charming, French-owned
winery offering personal tours and
well-honed wines. Surrounded by
vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499
0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com
Carinae
Rutini Museum
Familia Cecchin
A family winery using organic and
biodynamic principles where you
can see the entire process from the
beautiful green vineyards to the
minimal intervention winery. (0261)
497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before
reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout
Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar
 THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City
Familia Di Tommasso
Officially the second oldest winery in
Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com
The Vines of Mendoza
A cooperative of international wine
lovers who have all bought a vineyard
plot each in Uco Valley to make their
own wine with experts. Add to this
a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley
will never be the same again. Ruta 94,
Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900
Salentein
Designed like a temple to wine, this
ultra-concept winery includes a
modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel
set high in the Andean valley. (02622)
429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.
killkasalentein.com
Salentein
Diamandes
Modern, imposing winery with
magnificent wines, part of
prestigious French group Clos de los
Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland.
Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261)
4760695.
Bodega Masi
Fascinating Italian job in the heart of
Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especially
the Amarone inspired varietals and
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.
www.masitupungato.com
Restaurant
Trivento
Located in the bucolic splendour of
southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful deck set
amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle
excursions within the property. Ruta 60
y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maip, Mendoza.
(0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com
VALLE
DE UCO
Atamisque
This Uco winery has some great
white wines, a unique stony roof and
they breed their own trout which is
served in the charming restaurant.
(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San
Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.
com
La Azul
Simple, small production winery
with not so simple Malbecs, a small
traditional restaurant and now a
beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P
89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato.
www.bodegalaazul.com
La Azul
O. Fournier
Most architecturally innovative
winery with rich, concentrated
wines. Excellent lunches in the
modernist visitor center. (02622) 451
088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San
Carlos. www.ofournier.com
Gimenez Riili
A brand new family run affair, part
of the exciting Vines of Mendoza
project. This is a modern winery in
a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/
0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),
Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.
Lodging Art Gallery
Trivento
Finca Sophenia
Modern, high tech winery in
stunning location. High quality
wines overseen by Matias Michellini.
www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154-
45622
Domaine Bousquet
Another French transplant to the
Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
this sizeable operation produces
high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
www.domainebousquet.com (0261)
5274048
Corazon del Sol
A stark, modern winery with big,
concentrated reds. Californian
owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel.
0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol.
com.
Andeluna
The old-world style tasting room
looks upon dramatic views of
vineyards against mountains.
Probably the best gourmet lunch
in the winery. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com
Andeluna
Piedra Infinita
Innovative, elegant and modern,
Piedra Infinita is the imposing,
dramatic contribution of Familia
Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open
from Wednesday to Sunday. www.
zuccardiwines.com.
29
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MAP OF
WINE TOUR
MAIP

33
 MAP OF
SAN MARTIN
PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

34
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