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TOP
BERLIN
JRGEN SCHEUNEMANN
Top 10 Berlin The Top 10 of
Highlights Everything
Welcome to Berlin ......................... 5 Moments in History ..................... 46
Exploring Berlin ............................. 6 Famous Berliners ........................ 48
Berlin Highlights .......................... 10 Museums...................................... 50
Brandenburger Tor and Art Galleries ................................. 52
Pariser Platz ............................. 12 Historic Buildings......................... 54
Reichstag...................................... 14 Modern Buildings ........................ 56
Unter den Linden ......................... 16 Churches and Synagogues ......... 58
Potsdamer Platz .......................... 20 Parks and Gardens ...................... 60
Museumsinsel.............................. 24 Off the Beaten Track.................... 62
Kurfrstendamm ......................... 30 Childrens Attractions .................. 64
Kaiser-Wilhelm- Performing Arts Venues.............. 66
Gedchtnis-Kirche ................... 32
Gay and Lesbian Attractions ....... 68
Schloss Charlottenburg............... 34
Best Places to Eat........................ 70
Kulturforum ................................. 38
Kneipen (Pubs) and Bars ............ 72
Zoologischer Garten .................... 42
Lounges and Clubs ...................... 74
Shops and Markets...................... 76
Berlin for Free.............................. 78
Festivals and Fairs ....................... 80
CONTENTS
Berlin Streetsmart
Area by Area
Central Berlin: Getting To and Around Berlin....164
Unter den Linden ..................... 84 Practical Information .................166
Central Berlin: Places to Stay .............................172
Scheunenviertel ....................... 94
Central Berlin:
General Index .............................180
Around Alexanderplatz ..........102
Acknowledgments .....................188
The Tiergarten and
Federal District.......................112 Phrase Book...............................190
Charlottenburg and
Spandau ..................................118
Kreuzberg, Schneberg
and Neuklln ..........................128
Prenzlauer Berg.........................136
Berlins Southeast......................144 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top
10 Travel Guide is checked annually.
Grunewald and Dahlem ............150 Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at the
Potsdam and Sanssouci ............156 time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy material on third party websites, and cannot
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in guarantee that any website address in this
the editors opinion, of roughly equal merit. book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and
Front cover and spine The Reichstag at sunrise suggestions of our readers very highly. Please
Back cover Enjoying the view of the Berliner write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel
Dom Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London
Title page Unique roof of the Sony Center at WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
Potsdamer Platz travelguides@dk.com
Top 10 Berlin 5
Welcome to
Berlin
Few European cities have witnessed as much upheaval and
renewal as Berlin. From Prussian powerhouse and Nazi
bastion to Cold War zombie and revitalized capital of a
reunited Germany Berlin has seen it all, and then some.
With Eyewitness Top 10 Berlin, this fascinating city that is
perpetually in a state of becoming is yours to explore.
Even today, the layers of history speak volumes. A stroll along Unter
den Linden leads you from the classical columns of Brandenburger
Tor past former Third Reich ministries to the world-class treasures
of Museumsinsel. Just beyond lies the Socialist architecture of
Alexanderplatz, compelling in an entirely different way. This
kaleidoscope of eras lends charm to Berlins crooked grin.
For many visitors, the citys star attractions are its exciting arts
scene and variety of bars, cafs and nightclubs. The spirit of the
Golden Twenties lives on here, and Berlin keeps going around the
clock. How much you do depends on your staying power as any
bleary-eyed reveller will tell you, this isnt a city of morning people
(the after-parties dont count). But thats not all. For a metropolis,
Berlin is surprisingly green, with vast parks such as the Tiergarten
or Volkspark Friedrichshain teeming with lazing couples, families
having a barbecue, joggers and cyclists in a country known for its
autobahns, people are increasingly trading in their cars for bicycles.
Clockwise from top: Berliner Dom, Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz, Hackescher Markt near
Hackesche Hfe, Schloss Charlottenburg, Marx-Engels-Forum, the Philharmonie concert hall
6 Top 10 Berlin
Exploring Berlin
For a sprawling, historic metropolis whose charms are
widely scattered, Berlin is a surprisingly easy place to
navigate. Theres something for every interest and
budget, and excellent public transport whisks you from
sight to sight with clockwork efficiency. Here are a few
ideas to maximize your fun and minimize your planning.
Schloss
Schloss
Gipsformerei Charlottenburg
GipsformereiCharlottenburg BoatBoat
TourTour
Sp
Sp
e e
re
re
Richard-Wagner-
Richard-Wagner- Reichstag
Reichstag
AnaAna e Bruno
e Bruno PlatzPlatz station
station
Brandenburger
Brandenburger Tor Tor
U-BAU-BA
HN HN
Zoologischer Tiergarten
Zoologischer Tiergarten
Ernst-Reuter-Platz
Ernst-Reuter-Platz Garten
Garten
station
station station
station Philharmonie
Philharmonie
CHARLOTTENBURG
CHARLOTTENBURG Kulturforum
Kulturforum
Savignyplatz
Savignyplatz Zoologischer
Zoologischer
Garten
Garten
Kurfrstendamm
Kurfrstendamm
Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Kaufhaus
Kaufhaus
Gedchtnis-Kirche
Gedchtnis-Kirche
des des Westens
Westens
Winterfeldtplatz
Winterfeldtplatz
Yorkstrasse
Yorkstrasse station
station
The Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche Key N N
AH AH
S-B S-B
stands as a reminder Two-day itinerary
of the horrors of war. Four-day itinerary Potsdam,
Potsdam,
Sanssouci
Sanssouci
Gardens
Gardens
(25 km)
(25 km)
Afternoon
Two Days in Berlin After lunch, wander through Schloss
Charlottenburg (see pp347) and
Day 1 linger in its Baroquestyle gardens.
Morning Seek out Savignyplatz for cocktails
Begin at Alexanderplatz (see pp1029) and an evening bite (see p12021).
and ascend the Fernsehturm (see
p104) for an unequalled Berlin pano
rama. View Babylonian treasures at Four Days in Berlin
the Pergamonmuseum (see pp246).
Afternoon Day 1
Stroll along historic Unter den Morning
Linden (see pp1619). Admire the Spend time exploring the Reichstag
iconic Brandenburger Tor (see and government district (see pp1415),
pp1213) and take a guided tour of then take a boat tour through Berlins
the Reichstag (see pp1415) before waterways (see p170). There are
enjoying a classical concert at the piers in the Tiergarten next to the
Philharmonie (see pp389). Haus der Kulturen der Welt.
Afternoon
Day 2 Have lunch at Aigner (see p93), and
Morning visit pretty Gendarmenmarkt (see
Begin with the ruins of the Kaiser- p86). Promenade on Unter den
Wilhelm-Gedchtnis-Kirche (see Linden (see pp1617) before admiring
pp323) before exploring stores along the Brandenburger Tor (see pp1213).
Kurfrstendamm (see pp3031) and Catch an evening show at the
in Kaufhaus des Westens (see p76). Friedrichstadt-Palast (see p67).
Exploring Berlin 7
The Reichstag,
one of Berlins most
symbolic buildings,
is a popular sight.
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
ParkPark
station
station
U-BAU-BA
HN HN KREUZBERG
KREUZBERG
Gneisenaustr.
Gneisenaustr. station
station
Marheineke-Markthalle
Marheineke-Markthalle
SCHNEBERG
SCHNEBERG
Potsdamer Platz, untouched for nearly
0 kilometres
0 kilometres1 1 50 years in rubble, has now been
0 miles
0 miles 1 1 regenerated into a vibrant city hub.
Berlin Highlights
Berlin is Germanys liveliest city and one of the most
fascinating capitals in the world. Youll find no other
place where art and culture, museums and theatres,
entertainment and nightlife are more diverse and
exciting than around the banks of the Spree
River. Once reunited, Berlin quickly
developed into a cosmopolitan city,
and today there is an air of great
energy and vibrancy about it.
Brandenburger Tor
and Pariser Platz 1
The Brandenburger Tor stands in
Pariser Platz, where the embassies
and the famous Hotel Adlon exude
a stylish elegance (see pp1213).
2 Reichstag MOA
MOAB ITB I T
STRA E L-
STRA E L-
SS E
SS E
B E U SS
B E U SS
R.
R.
is a more potent symbol Schloss-
Schloss- IN G ST
IN G ST
parkpark LE L
of Germanys history than VE EVE
T R.
T R.
TZ TZ
LE SS
LE SS
Spree
Spree OW OW
NS
NS
NDR-
SPAAUE
SPA ND AUE R-
AN
AN
TO TO
-S -S R A AREA A E
UH UH
fantastic views across
K AIS ER- FRI
K AIS ER- FRI
R- R- S S RS S R
AL AL
LE LE HAHA
NSAV IERTE
NSAV L E LE
IERT E
E E
K S TKRSATSRSA S S
B IAS RMCA R C
BISM
K A I SKEARI S- E R -
HA
HA
D A MDM AMM
RD
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CHA
CHA
RLOT
RLOT
TENBU
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EN
EN
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R. R.
K A NKTASNT TR SAT R A
S S ES S E
A M MA M M
3 Unter
Linden
den ENDEND
R S T R S T
K U R FK U R F
LIE LI N
T Z E ER ER
T ZB EUNRBGU R G SSE SSE
S T R AS T R A
5 Museumsinsel
Among the museums
in this complex are the
Pergamonmuseum, which
houses the Pergamon Altar
(see pp247), the Altes and
the Neues museums.
7 Kaiser-
Wilhelm-
Kurfrsten- Gedchtnis-Kirche
damm 6 The tower ruins of the
Berlins much visited memorial church, built
strolling and shopping to commemorate Kaiser
avenue is the main Wilhelm I, still stand today
thoroughfare in the as a silent reminder of the
western part of the horrors of war (see pp323).
city (see pp3031).
0 kilometres
0 kilometres 1 1
HE
HE
0 miles
0 miles 1 1
ID
ID
ES
ES
Fritz-
Fritz-
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Schloss-
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STR ASS E
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Schloss
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8
WIL
WIL
H O FJ G
H O FJ G
Charlottenburg
HEL
HEL
POTSDAMER
POTSDAMER
PLATZ
PLATZ LEIGE
LEI PZI R GE
PZI R . STR .
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MST
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ERALLE
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KO CH
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Lan Lan
its beautiful Baroque
SE
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we
we k a
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NS
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a slice of Prussian
.
.
TS
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l
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BL BL KREUZB
KREUZB ERG
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history (see pp347).
9 Kulturforum
This complex of museums,
which includes the Gemldegalerie,
the Kunstgewerbemuseum and the
Neue Nationalgalerie, yields a unique
cultural experience (see pp3841).
Zoologischer Garten
Germanys oldest and most
0
famous zoo and aquarium, in the
centre of the city, boasts over
19,000 animals and nearly 1,500
different species (see pp423).
12 Top 10 Berlin Highlights
Brandenburger Tor
Built by Carl G Langhans in
1
178991 and modelled on the temple
porticoes of ancient Athens, the
Brandenburg Gate (right) is the
undisputed symbol of Berlin. Since
the 19th century, this iconic landmark
has been the backdrop for many
events in the citys turbulent history.
2 Quadriga
The 6m (20ft) high sculpture
(below) was created in 1794 as a sym
bol of peace by Johann
Gottfried Schadow. As
the model for the
goddess of
peace, he used
his niece, who
subsequently
became famous
throughout
Berlin.
4 DZ Bank
This modern building, designed
3 Hotel Adlon Berlin
Favoured by visiting dignitaries,
by the American architect Frank Owen
Gehry, combines the clean lines of
the citys most elegant hotel (below) is Prussian architecture with some
a reconstruction. The legendary origi daring elements inside (see p57).
nal, destroyed in World War II, hosted
celebrities that included Greta Garbo, Akademie der Knste
Thomas Mann and Charlie Chaplin. 5 Built in 20002005 and designed
by Gnter Behnisch and Manfred
Sabatke, the Academy of Arts incorpo
rates, behind a vast expanse of win
dows, the ruins of the old art academy,
which was destroyed in World War II.
6 French Embassy
Christian de Portzamparc built
this elegant building in 2001 on the site
of the old embassy, which was ruined
in World War II. Its colonnades and
windows are a homage to the original.
Brandenburger Tor and Pariser Platz 13
7 Palais am
Pariser Platz
Need to KNow
This complex (left) by Map K3 Pariser Platz
Bernhard Winking is Tourist information centre:
a successful modern Brandenburger Tor southern
interpretation of Neo- gatehouse (030) 25 00 25
Classical architecture. www.visitberlin.de
8 Haus
Liebermann
Josef P Kleihues built
this in 19968, faithfully
recreating the original
that stood on the same
site. The house is named
after the artist Max
Liebermann, who lived
here. In 1933, watching
Nazi SA troops march
through the gate, he
famously said: I cannot
possibly eat as much as
I would like to puke.
Eugen-
9 American
Embassy Gutmann- 0
The last gap around Haus
Pariser Platz was finally With its clean lines, the
closed in 2008 (above). Dresdner Bank (right),
A dispute had delayed built in 1997 by gmp,
building for years: the US recalls the style of the
wanted a whole street New Sobriety movement
moved for reasons of of the 1920s. In front of it
security, but had to con- is Pariser Platzs famous
cede the point in the end. original street sign.
14 Top 10 Berlin Highlights
Reichstag
Of all the buildings in Berlin, the Reichstag, seat of the
Bundestag (parliament), is probably one of the most symbolic.
The mighty structure, erected in 188494 by Paul Wallot as the
proud manifestation of the power of the German Reich, was
destroyed by arson in 1933 and bombed during World War II. In
1995, the artist Christo wrapped up the Reichstag and, in 1999,
the British architect Lord Norman Foster transformed it into
one of the most modern parliamentary buildings in the world.
The Dome
The Reichstag dome by Lord
1
Norman Foster affords breathtaking
views of Berlin. It is open at the top
to air the building and a symbolic
touch to allow for the free and
open dissemination of debates
throughout the country. A ramp
winds its way up to the top (right).
2 Plenary Hall
The plenary hall (above) is the The ReichsTag FiRe
seat of the Deutscher Bundestag When the Reichstag went up in flames on
the German parliament which has 27 February 1933, the Dutch Communist
convened here again since 20 April van der Lubbe was arrested for arson. It is,
1999. Technologically, the hall is one however, likely that the Nazis started the
of the most advanced parliament fire themselves. Hitler used it as an excuse
buildings in the world. The federal to get the Enabling Act passed, which let
eagle caused a row: considered too him dispose off his opponents and marked
fat, it had to be slimmed down. the start of a 12-year reign of terror.
3 Portico Dem
deutschen Volke Restaurant
5
The dedication To the German Kfer
People was designed in 1916, This popular luxury
against the will of Wilhelm II. restaurant (right) on
the Reichstags roof
4 Restored Faade
Despite extensive renovations,
offers an excellent
view of the historical
small World War II bullet holes are centre of Unter den
still visible in the buildings faade. Linden (see p117).
Reichstag 15
0 Memorial
Appelt
by Dieter
Unveiled in 1992, the memorial
(below) in front of the Reichstag
commemorates 97 Social
Democratic and Communist
delegates who were murdered
under the Third Reich.
Deutsches Historisches
Museum 1
Germanys largest history museum
(right) offers an overview of more than
1,000 years of German history. Housed
in the Zeughaus, it is the oldest and
architecturally the most interesting
building on Unter den Linden (see p18).
2 Staatsoper
Linden
Unter den
The richly ornamented State Opera
House (above) is one of Germanys
most attractive. Neo-Classical in
style, it was built by architect Georg
Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff between
17413 as Europes first free-standing
opera house, to plans devised by
Frederick the Great himself (see p85).
3 St Hedwigskathedrale
Designed by von Knobelsdorff in
17402 and modelled on the Pantheon
in Rome, this is the seat of Berlins
Catholic archdiocese (below). It was
commissioned by Frederick the Great
to appease Berlin Catholics after the
conquest of Silesia
(see p58). 4 Humboldt-Universitt
Berlins oldest and most highly
regarded university (above) was
founded in 1890, on the initiative of
Wilhelm von Humboldt. Twenty-nine
Nobel Prize winners were educated
here, including Albert Einstein.
Unter den Linden 17
8 Kronprinzenpalais
Originally created in 1669 as a
private residence by Johann Arnold
Nering, the building was remodelled in
17323 into a Neo-Classical palace by
Philip Gerlach and was a residence for
several Hohenzollern heirs. After
5 Neue Wache
The central German memorial
World War I it became an art museum,
before the East German government
(above) for all victims of war was housed state visitors there. The
created in 18168 by Karl Friedrich German reunification agreement was
Schinkel. A reproduction of Kthe signed here in August 1990. It now
Kollwitzs moving Piet stands here. holds cultural events and exhibitions.
9 Bebelplatz
Originally named
Opernplatz, this wide
open space was
designed by Georg W
von Knobelsdorff as the
focal point of his Forum
Fridericianum. The
elegant square was
meant to introduce some
of the splendour and
glory of ancient Rome to
the Prussian capital. In
May 1933, it became the
scene of the infamous
Nazi book burning.
Need to KNow
MAP K5 Deutsches
Historisches Museum:
Zeughaus, Unter den
Linden 2 (030) 20 30
40 www.dhm.de
Open 10am6pm daily
Opernpalais
6 The charming Admission charge
MAP K4 Staatsoper:
building next to the
Unter den Linden 7
Staatsoper, built in 17337, (030) 20 35 45 55
was also known as the www.staatsoper-
Kronprinzessinnenpalais berlin.de
and once served as a
palace for the daughters Closed for renovation;
of Friedrich Wilhelm III. until then, performances
take place at the
7 Russische
Botschaft 0 Frederick the
Greats Statue
Schillertheater,
Bismarckstr. 110
The gigantic Russian One of Christian Daniel Take a break at the
Embassy, built in Rauchs grandest sculp- Caf im Deutschen
Stalinist wedding-cake tures, this equestrian Historischen Museum
style, was the first statue (above) shows Old (in the Zeughaus)
building to be erected Fritz (13.5 m/44 ft high) which can be accessed
on Unter den Linden in his tricorn and coro- directly from the street.
after World War II. nation mantle (see p85).
18 Top 10 Berlin Highlights
3 Steam Engine
A full-sized steam engine Gloria Victis by Antonin Merci
from the year 1847 marks the
entrance to the exhibition on
the Industrial Revolution.
6 Gloria Victis
The moving allegorical figure
of Gloria Victis, created by the French
4 Clothes
Camps
from the sculptor Antonin Merci, bears
witness to the death of his friend
Among the many exhibits here that during the final days of the Franco-
illustrate the years under Nazi rule Prussian War of 187071.
is the jacket of a concentration
camp inmate a chilling reminder
of the Third Reich.
7 Soldiers
House
Plundering a
0 V2 Rocket
Exhibited in the section on
Nazi Germany is a V2 rocket engine
next to an 88-mm flak gun. The V2
missile was one of the Wunderwaffen
(wonder weapons) used by German
Martin Luther by Lucas Cranach troops at the end of World War II.
Unter den Linden 19
Potsdamer Platz
The heart of the new metropolis of Berlin beats on Potsdamer
Platz. This square, where Berliners and tourists alike now
flock to cinemas, restaurants and shops, was a hub of urban
life in the 1920s. After World War II, it became a desolate
wasteland, but since the fall of the Wall, Potsdamer Platz
for a while Europes largest building site has become a city
within the city, surrounded by imposing edifices that began
to appear in the 1990s, and are still being added to today.
Sony Center
The Sony Center
1
(right) is the most ambi
tious, successful and
architecturally inter
esting building in the
new Berlin. The cupola
structure, designed by
Helmut Jahn, is the
European headquarters
of the Sony company,
and with its cinemas and
restaurants it is also a
social magnet.
2 Deutsche
Kinemathek
This museum (below)
takes visitors backstage
at Babelsberg and
Hollywood with Marlene
Dietrichs costumes and
other exhibits (see p22).
Weinhaus
Huth 4
The only building on
Potsdamer Platz to have
survived World War II,
the restored Weinhaus
(right) today accommo
dates restaurants and
the excellent Daimler
Contemporary, which
showcases modern art.
3 Caf Josty
Caf Josty harkens back to 5 Boulevard der Stars
Berlins walk of fame features
its legendary predecessor, a regular stars such as Marlene Dietrich,
haunt of artists and intellectuals in Werner Herzog, Fritz Lang, Hans
the 19th century. Todays Zimmer, Christoph
Josty is partially housed Waltz, Diane Kruger
in the historic Kaisersaal and Romy Schneider
(Emperors Hall) of the former (left). The coloured asphalt
Grand Hotel Esplanade. evokes the red carpet.
Potsdamer Platz 21
ST ST
6 The arcades (above) draw visitors
RE RA
7
SE SS
0
M E
AN
6
N-
with three floors hosting 130 shops,
8
exclusive boutiques and restaurants.
SE
RAS
The lower ground floor is a food court
KST
serving a range of meals and snacks.
LIN
7 Spielbank
Berlin
Berlins casino invites
visitors to faites vos jeux.
Apart from roulette, Black
Jack is also played, and an
entire floor is given over
to gambling machines.
Need to KNow
Map L2 Deutsche
Kinemathek: Potsdamer
Str. 2 (030) 300 90 30
www.deutsche-
kinemathek.de
Open 10am6pm Tue
Sun (to 8pm Thu)
Admission charge
Map F4 Spielbank
Berlin: Marlene-Dietrich-
Platz 1 www.
spielbank-berlin.de
8 CinemaxX
The CinemaxX 9 Quartier
Potsdamer
Open 113am daily
Admission charge
(below), with its 17 Platz Map L2 LEGOLAND
screens, is one of Berlins Leading architects such Discovery Centre:
largest cinemas. The big as Hans Kollhoff and Potsdamer Str. 4 (030)
ger screens show current Renzo Piano designed 301 04 40 www.lego
Hollywood blockbusters, these skyscrapers. landdiscoverycentre.de
while the three smallest One landmark is the Admission charge
are for lowbudget art terracotta and glass
Map L2 CinemaxX:
house and German films. Atrium Tower. Potsdamer Str. 5
(01805) 24 63 62 99
0 LEGOLAND
2 Metropolis
This iconic film, directed by
8 Transatlantic
This exhibition of documents,
Fritz Lang in 1927, has an alarming letters, keepsakes and souvenirs
vision of a futuristic urban dystopian retraces the careers of German film
world as its subject. Models and stars in Hollywood, both of the silent
props from the film are on display. era and from films with sound that
followed after 1928.
3 Caligari
The best known German film
of the 1920s, The Cabinet of Dr
Caligari (1920), was an influential
masterpiece of Expressionist
filmmaking by Robert Wiene.
4 Weimar Republic
The exhibits here are
dedicated to the works of the legen
dary directors of German cinemas Exhibits, Transatlantic section
golden age from 1918 to 1933.
Museumsinsel
Formed by the two arms of the Spree River, the Museumsinsel
is home to the worlds most diverse yet coherent museum
complex. Built between 1830 and 1930, the museums, which
hold the Prussian royal collections of art and archaeology,
were turned into a public foundation in 1918. Heavily damaged
in World War II, the complex has since been restored and was
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. From 2017, a
conceptual path will link the individual museums on the island.
Bode-Museum
Located at the northern tip of
1
Museumsinsel, the Bode-Museum
is a stately structure dominated by a
cupola (right). The building holds the
Sculpture Collection, the Museum of
Byzantine Art and the Numismatic
Collection, made up of a diverse
collection of over 500,000 objects.
2 Pergamonmuseum
Built in 190930, this is one of 3 Neues Museum
Spectacularly revamped by
the worlds most important museums British architect David Chipperfield,
of ancient art and architecture, with a the building itself is as fascinating as
vast collection of antiquities (see p26). the exhibits. As well as the Museum of
The huge Ishtar gate (above) dates Pre- and Early History, the gyptisches
from the 6th century BC. Museum is also housed here.
6 Altes Museum
1
2
Spr
ee The first building
3 to be completed on
AM
5 Museumsinsel in
KU
Museum resem
GR
4
AB
R.
bles a Greek
EN
ST
DE
AM
7 BO
temple (see p55).
LU
ST Originally meant to
GA
RT
6 EN
LA
TZ hold paintings, it now
SP
CH
L OS houses the collection
of Classical antiq
S
plan of the
Museumsinsel 9 0 uities (right).
7 James
Gallery
Simon
Named in honour of
James Simon (1851
1932), a patron of the
Berlin State Museums,
this will open in 2018 and
be the central entrance
and visitor centre.
8 Colonnade
Courtyard
This columned courtyard
between the Alte
Nationalgalerie and
Neues Museum frames
and connects the
museums and provides
an atmospheric venue
for openair concerts.
9 Lustgarten
This pleasure park, with a fountain in its
centre, is located in front of the Altes Museum.
The lawns are popular with tired visitors (see p55).
Pergamonmuseum
5 Frieze from the Palace
of Darius
A frieze dating to around 510 BC
from the palace of Darius in Susa
(Iran) is made of exquisitely
coloured glazed brick and
depicts a row of Persian
warriors holding lances and
carrying bows and quivers.
6 Giant Sculpture
of a Bird of Prey
The nearly 2-m- (7-ft-) high
Riesensonnenvogel (huge
sun bird) was discovered
during excavations in Tell
Halaf, Syria, the centre of
the ancient Aramaic city-
Detail, frieze from Dariuss palace state of Guzana.
1 Pergamon Altar
The colossal Pergamon Altar
7 Aleppo Room
Taken from a Christian
from the ancient eponymous Greek merchants house in Syria and dating
city (in modern Turkey) dates from from the early 17th century, this
160 BC and is the largest and most small room features magnificent
significant treasure in the collections wooden cladding and is a beautiful
of the Berlin museums. This hall is example of Ottoman architecture.
closed for reconstruction until 2019.
4 Assyrian
Palace Room 0 Victory Stele
of Esarhaddon
The reconstructed room This monumental stele,
of the Assyrian kings excavated in 1888 in
palace (9th century BC) Zincirli, commemorates
boasts impressive door Esarhaddons victory
figures and 13th-century over Pharoah Taharqa
BC wall paintings. Market Gate of Miletus (671 BC).
Museumsinsel 27
Kurfrstendamm
After years of decline, the Kurfrstendamm, or Kudamm
for short, has once again become a fashionable hot spot.
Breathtaking architecture, elegant boutiques and a lively
street artist scene around Breitscheidplatz have made this
shopping boulevard one of Berlins most attractive and at
3.8 km (2.5 miles) also its longest avenue for strolling.
Breitscheidplatz
Here, in the heart of the western
1
city (right), artists, Berliners and
visitors swarm around J Schmettans
globe fountain, known by locals as
Wasserklops (water meatball).
2 Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-
Kirche
The church tower (the
church itself was
destroyed during
World War II) stands
in the centre of the
square (left), serving
as both memorial
and stark reminder
of the terrors of war
(see pp323).
3 Europa-Center
The oldest shopping centre in
West Berlin, opened in 1962, is still
worth a visit. Here you will find fashion
boutiques, a comedy theatre and an
official Berlin Tourist Info centre. 5 Bikini Berlin
The Bikini-Haus building
(above), built in 1956, was renovated
to house the splendid Bikini Berlin, an
ultra-hip boutique mall that also offers
great views of the nearby zoo.
8 Lehniner Platz
The square is home to the
Schaubhne theatre (left), built as
Universum cinema in 1928 by Erich
Mendelsohn and converted in 1978.
9 Fasanenstrae
A small street off Kudamm,
Fasanenstrae (below), with its
galleries, expensive shops and res
taurants, is one of Charlottenburgs
most elegant areas (see pp12021).
0 Traffic Turret
On the corner of Joachimstaler
Strae stands an oldfashioned traffic
turret or Verkehrskanzel, the last
one in the city and now a heritage
monument. A policeman sat in the
raised glass cabin to control traffic
lights manually from 1955 to 1962,
when the signals went automatic.
6 RT&W Galerie
The NeoClassical
Need to KNow Wall. Visitors can walk
through a nuclear bomb
building housing this Map p5 Europa-
Center: Tauentzienstr. 9 shelter, built during the
gallery gives visitors a Cold War, beneath the
(030) 348 00 80
glimpse of Kudamms museum. (www.
www.24EC.de
erstwhile splendour. story-of-berlin.de).
Open 24 hours (shops
Few original cafs in
7 Iduna-Haus
and Berlin Tourist Info:
the Kurfrstendamm
The turreted 10am8pm MonSat)
area have survived:
building at No. 59 at the Map N4 Bikini Berlin: the most charming is
Leibnitzstrae corner is Budapester Str. 3850 the Caf Wintergarten
one of the few surviving www.bikiniberlin.de
in the Literaturhaus
bourgeois houses from on Fasanenstrae
Open 10am8pm Mon
the late 19th Sat, noon6pm Sun (see p126).
century. The
ornamented
Avoid Kudamm on
The Story of Berlin at
Jugendstil Saturday mornings
Kurfrstendamm 2078
when it is teeming with
(Art Nouveau) is a multimedia tour
locals and tourists out
faade has of 800 years of Berlins
on shopping trips.
been lavishly history from the Great
restored Elector to the fall of the
(left).
32 Top 10 Berlin Highlights
Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche
This ruined Neo-Romanesque church is one of Berlins most
haunting symbols. It was consecrated in 1895 and named
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church in honour of Wilhelm I.
Following severe damage by the 1943 bombing raids, the ruins
of the tower were left standing as a memorial. Egon Eiermann
built a new church next to it in 195763.
Tower Ruins
Only the church
1
tower (right) survived the
Allied bombing raids that
razed much of the city to
the ground in 1943. Today
only 71 m (233 ft) high,
the tower once rose to
113 m (370 ft). The rough
hole in its roof has given
rise to its nickname the
Hollow Tooth.
New Bell
Tower 2
The hexagonal bell tower
(right) rises 53 m (174 ft)
high next to the tower
ruins on the site of the
old churchs main nave.
8 Coventry Crucifix
This small crucifix was forged
from old nails that were found in
the ruins of Coventry Cathedral in
England. It commemorates the
bombing of Coventry by the
German Luftwaffe in 1940.
9 Tower Clock
The tower bears
a clock based on a
Classical design, with
Roman numerals. At
night, it is lit in blue by
4 Main Altar
The golden figure of Christ
modern light-emitting diodes to match
the lighting inside the new church.
(above) created by Karl Hemmeter is
suspended above the main altar in the
modern church. In the evening light, 0 Russian Orthodox Cross
This gift from the bishops of
the windows behind the altar glow an Volokolomsk and Yuruyev was given
overwhelming dark blue. in memory of the victims of Nazism.
NEED TO KNOW
Map N4 Breitscheidplatz
(030) 218 50 23 www.
gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de
Open Church: 9am7pm daily;
memorial hall: 10am6pm MonSat,
noon6pm Sun; services 10am and
6pm Sun
Free guided tours at 1:15pm, 2pm, 3pm
5 Mosaic of the
Hohenzollerns
daily and 10:15am, 11am, noon Mon,
Fri, Sat (donations welcome); group
The vividly coloured tours in English available for a small fee
mosaic (above) of the
Hohenzollerns adorns
Visit the new church on a sunny day
the vestibule of the around lunchtime, when the blue
church ruins. It depicts glass window is at its most impressive.
Emperor Wilhelm I There are fantastic views of the
together with Queen church from the Mvenpick Caf
Luise of Prussia and in the Europa-Center opposite.
her entourage.
Original Mosaics
Glittering Jugendstil-
6
style mosaics showing
Prussian dukes and
princes are preserved on
the walls and ceilings
along the stairways (right).
7 Figure of Christ
Miraculously, the
vast, plain sculpture of
Christ, which is suspended
from the ceiling, survived
the bombing of the church.
34 Top 10 Berlin Highlights
Schloss Charlottenburg
The construction of Schloss Charlottenburg,
designed as a summer residence for Sophie
Charlotte, wife of the Elector Friedrich
III, began in 1695. The Orangerie was
extended and a cupola was added by
Johann Friedrich Eosander between
1701 and 1713. The palace is being
renovated in stages and is
expected to be ready in 2017.
Spree
Knobelsdorff, the new beyond which lies a vast
wing contains Frederick park, redesigned by
the Greats private quar Peter Joseph Lenn in
9
ters, as well as a large 18181828 in the English
6
collection of 18thcentury style with rivers, artificial
8
French paintings. lakes and small follies. S chlossgar ten
1
7 Belvedere
Friedrich Wilhelm II
2
3 5
liked to escape to the romantic 4 LUISEN-
PLATZ
DAMM
Belvedere (below), a summer S PA N D A U
ER
9 Mausoleum
Slightly hidden, this
NeoClassical building
(below) by Schinkel is the
final resting place of many
of the Hohenzollerns.
0 Museum Berggruen
Situated in the Western Stler
Building opposite the Charlottenburg
palace, this modern art gallery houses
the permanent exhibition Picasso and
his Time, featuring more than 100
works that span the artists career.
Other highlights of the collection
include works by Matisse, Klee and
Giacometti (see p52).
6 Bibliothek
Frederick the Greats small
library has outstanding elegant
bookcases and a vibrant, light
green colour scheme.
7 Konzertkammer
Furniture and gilded panelling
in the concert hall have been faith-
fully recreated as during Frederick
the Greats time. Antoine Watteaus
Gersaints Shop Sign, considered to
be one of his most significant works,
Goldene Galerie in the Neuer Flgel hangs here; the king bought the
work directly from the artist.
1 Goldene Galerie
The festival salon in the
8 Grnes Zimmer
Neuer Flgel, 42 m (138 ft) long, The green room in Queen
was designed in Rococo style by Elisabeths quarters is an excellent
Frederick the Greats favourite example of royal chambers furnished
architect von Knobelsdorff. The in 19th-century Biedermeier style.
richly ornamented room has a
cheerful appearance.
2 Eichengalerie
The wooden panelling of
the Oak Gallery is carved with
expensively gilded portraits of
Hohenzollern ancestors.
3 Gris-de-Lin-Kammer
This small chamber in
Friedrichs second palace Queen Elisabeths Grnes Zimmer
apartment is decorated with
paintings, including some by his
favourite artist, Antoine Watteau.
9 Rote Kammer
The elegant chamber,
The room was named after its decorated entirely in red and gold,
wall coverings in violet-coloured is adorned by portraits of King
damask (gris-de-lin in French). Friedrich I and Sophie Charlotte.
4 Schlafzimmer
Luise
Knigin
0 Friedrich Is
Audienzkammer
Queen Luises bedchamber, The ceiling paintings and Belgian
designed in 1810 by Karl Friedrich tapestries depict allegorical figures
Schinkel, features the clear lines symbolizing the fine arts and the
typical of the Neo-Classical style. sciences. There are also magnificent
The walls are clad in silk fabrics lacquered cabinets, modelled on
and wallpaper. Asian originals.
Schloss Charlottenburg 37
Kulturforum
The Kulturforum is a unique complex of museums, concert
halls and libraries west of Potsdamer Platz. Here, some of
the most outstanding European art museums, as well as the
famous concert hall of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra,
attract millions of visitors interested in culture and music. The
complex, based in the former West Berlin, has been growing
steadily since 1956 as a counterpoint to the Museumsinsel in
the former East Berlin. The Kulturforum also contains some
of Berlins best examples of modern architecture.
Gemldegalerie
Berlins largest art
1
museum (right) holds
masterpieces of European
art. They are displayed in
the modern Neubau, built
in 1998 by Heinz Hilmer
and Christoph Sattler. The
collection includes Bosch,
Holbein, Drer, Gossaert,
Vermeer, Brueghel the
Elder, Titian, Caravaggio
and Rembrandt.
Philharmonie
This tent-like
3
building (right) was the
2 Neue
Nationalgalerie
first new structure to be
built in the Kulturforum
Based in a building by Mies in 19603. Considered
van der Rohe (above), this one of the best concert
holds mainly 20th-century halls in the world, it is
art, with an emphasis on the home of the Berlin
German Expressionism. Philharmonic Orchestra.
Collection highlights are Sir Simon Rattle will
on show elsewhere during continue to conduct until
the renovation (see p56). 2017 (see p66).
4 Kunstgewerbe
museum
Craft objects from across
Europe from the Middle Ages to
the present day are on show at
this museum (left), including
valuable items like the Guelphs
treasure, Lneburgs silver and
Renaissance faence (see p51).
Kulturforum 39
5 Musikinstrumen
museum
ten Need to KNow
Concealed behind the Map L1/2 West of Potsdamer Platz
(030) 266 424 242 www.smb.
Philharmonie is this
fascinating little museum
museum of Gemldegalerie: Matthikirchplatz 4/6
musical instru Open 10am6pm TueSun (to 8pm
ments. More than Thu)
800 exhibits are
Kupferstichkabinett: Matthikirchplatz 8
on show here,
particularly early Open 10am6pm TueSun
instruments such as A day pass for all museums is 12; the
harpsichords (right) as Neue Nationalgalerie is closed until
well as a 1929 Wurlitzer (see p51). 2019 for remodelling
Kunstbibliothek: Matthikirchplatz 6
Open 10am6pm TueSun
St Matthuskirche: Matthikirchplatz 1
(030) 262 12 02
Open 11am6pm TueSun; organ
concert 12:30pm
Admission charge for exhibitions
The Kulturforum restaurant and
caf is a convenient spot for coffee.
Take a break around the quiet back
of the Neue Nationalgalerie.
4 3 5
1 SSE
STRA
RTEN
BEN- RASSE
GA
T IE R
ST
GUR
IO N -
SSE
6
STRA
SE
6 Kammermusiksaal
S
0 RA
BERG
ST
S IG IS
MUN 8
Philharmonie, this concert hall is one
DST
R
RAS
S TA U
ME
7 SE
2 9
chamber music venues (see p57).
P OT
IETSCHUFER
REICHP
Gemldegalerie
1 Portrait of Hieronymus
Holzschuher
Floorplan Key
Exhibition area
7 8
6
Albrecht Drer painted this portrait
of the mayor of Nuremburg in 1529.
5
9 0
2
1
3 4
Entrance
6 Portrait
Stoffels
of Hendrickje
5 Victorious Eros
Caravaggios 1602 painting,
after Vergils model, shows Eros, the
god of love, trampling underfoot the
symbols of culture, glory, science
and power. Brueghels Dutch Proverbs
Kulturforum 41
Zoologischer Garten
Berlins Zoological Garden in the Tiergarten district is the
oldest zoo in Germany and, with nearly 1,500 different species,
one of the best-stocked in the world. Animals have been kept
and bred here since 1844. Today, the zoo hosts about 19,500
animals, ranging from jellyfish to Indian elephants. Many, such
as the polar bears and baby gorillas, have become celebrities,
while quite a few enclosures are interesting in their own right,
making a zoo visit a favourite day out for Berliners and visitors.
1 Penguin
House
Playful Antarctic
king and rockhopper
penguins inhabit this
cool haven, complete
with realistic cliffs,
illuminated heavens and a giant
skylight. Happier in warmer climes,
Humboldt (above) and African pen-
guins swim and waddle outside.
2 Monkey House
Monkeys and apes are at
home in this house, and here you
can watch gorillas, orangutans and
chimpanzees playing and swinging
from tree to tree. The Eastern
Lowland Gorillas are very popular.
4 Giraffe House
The 1872 North-African-style
Giraffe House (below) is the oldest
enclosure. Visitors enjoy watching as
the giraffes nibble the leaves of a
tree or slowly bend down to drink.
6 Elephant House
These huge, good-natured
pachyderms have a healthy appetite:
Indian elephants (left) devour up to
50 kg (110 lb) of hay a day. Since 1998,
16 elephants have been born here.
7 Aviaries
Nowhere else in the city
can you hear such singing,
tweeting and whistling
cockatiels, parrots,
hornbills and herons
(right) sound off in
the Bird House.
8 Hippo House
Glass domes arch
over an aquatic habitat
(left) at one of the worlds
most remarkable modern
zoo enclosures. An underwater
viewing area lets you admire the
hippos as they swim with seemingly
weightless balletic grace. The animals
also have access to an outdoor pool.
9 Aquarium
The greatest draw in the
aquarium, where fantastic Caribbean
and Amazonian habitats have been
re-created, are the green morays
and blacktip reef sharks, as well as a
jellyfish cylinder allowing 360 views
of the shimmering aquatic beauties.
0 Amphibians Section
Poisonous snakes, bird spiders
and reptiles as well as other amphibi-
ans crawl and slither around behind
NEED TO KNOW glass (below) on the second floor of
the aquarium. A particularly spectac-
MAP N5 Hardenbergplatz 8 and ular event is the feeding of the spiders.
Budapester Str. 34 (030) 25 40 10
www.zoo-berlin.de
Open Mid-MarSep: 9am7pm daily
(to 5pm daily in winter)
Admission charge 13; 20 combined
entry for zoo and aquarium
There is a caf and self-service
restaurant with a terrace inside the
zoo, to the right of the Elephant Gate.
A day at the zoo is not complete
without a visit to the aquarium. The
basins and terraria teem with life, as
do the zoo enclosures.
The Top 10
of Everything
Moments in History
The Neues Palais in Potsdam, the town where the 1685 edict was signed
3 Golden Twenties
Between 1919 and 1933,
Berlin flourished culturally and
became an influential metropolis.
Film, theatre, cabaret shows and
thousands of restaurants and bars
transformed the town into a vibrant
international centre of entertain-
ment. Berlin also set new standards
in the realms of science and industry,
and in architecture and fine art,
particularly the Bauhaus movement. Soviet tanks during the 1953 uprising
Moments in History 47
Famous Berliners
apartment in Charlottenburg. During
the Third Reich, the playwright
emigrated to the US, but he returned
to Germany after World War II and
founded the Berliner Ensemble in
East Berlin in 1949. Until his death,
Brecht lived in Chausseestrae in
Berlin-Mitte, with his wife, Helene
Weigel. His renovated apartment has
been turned into a museum.
2 Albert Einstein
In 1914, Albert Einstein (1879
1955) became the director of the
Kaiser Wilhelm-Institute for Physics.
He was awarded the Nobel Prize for
Physics in 1921 for his explanation
of the photoelectric effect, though
he is now better known for his
Theory of Relativity, first developed
in 1905. Einstein mostly lived and
worked in Potsdam, but stayed
closely connected with Berlin
through his lectures and teaching Conductor Herbert von Karajan
activity. In 1933 Einstein, who was
Jewish, emigrated to the USA, where
he stayed until his death.
5 Robert Koch
Like few other physicians and
microbiologists of his day, Robert
Bertolt Brecht
3 Born in Augsburg, Bavaria, Koch (18431910) laid the founda-
tions and shaped the face of modern
Bertolt Brecht (18981956) wrote medicine with his pioneering dis-
some of his greatest works, such as coveries. The Director of the Institute
the Threepenny Opera, in a small for Infectious Diseases, Koch also
Famous Berliners 49
Museums
4 Dahlem Museums
These three museums are
a fantastic resource of exotic and
historic European cultures (see p151).
The Museum of Ethnology is devoted
to the cultures of the Pacific, North
and South America and Africa. The
Museum of Asian Art has exquisite
collections from China, Japan, India
and Southeast Asia. The Museum of
European Cultures explores everyday
life within Europes cultural and
historical contexts. Its collections
will eventually move to the
Humboldt-Forum (see p89).
5 Jdisches Museum
The Jewish Museum, housed
in a spectacular building designed
Exhibit at the Pergamonmuseum by Daniel Libeskind, documents the
GermanJewish relationship through
1 Pergamonmuseum
This impressive museum on
the centuries. There are special
exhibitions on the influence of Berlin
the Museuminsel is a vast treasure Jews on the towns cultural life, and
trove of antiquities (see p26). on the life of the Enlightenment
philosopher Moses Mendelssohn.
2 gyptisches Museum
MAP K5 Museumsinsel,
An empty room commemorates the
loss of Jewish culture. There is also
Bodestr. 1 (030) 266 424 242 an excellent programme of special
10am6pm daily (until 8pm Thu)
events (see p129).
Adm charge www.smb.museum
0 yards 1000
SS
EE
SE
AS
bust of Nefertiti, wife of Akhenaton.
SS
SSE STR
TOR
E
RA
ST
The long-necked limestone bust, I DE
N
LUI SEN STR
AL
FRI ED RIC HST
INV
discovered in 1912, was copied all
over ancient Egypt. Also worth S pr
e
ASS E
R ASS E
LY
-BR A N DT- S T R .
Tiergar ten
Deutsches Historisches
3
STR .
STRASSE
Museum POTSDAMER
PLATZ
LEIPZIGER
ST
STR ASS E
uses unique exhibits, documents and
HEL
KO CH -
RE
SE
R
La
MST
ME
n KREUZBERG
films to take the visitor on a journey
M
AN
DA
dw
RAS
NS
TS
SS
PO
TR
k
SE
STR A
r
AS
SE
al
DEN
6 Deutsches
Technikmuseum 9 Museum fr Naturkunde
MAP F2 Invalidenstr. 43
www.sim.spk-berlin.de
(see pp3841).
Some 800 musical instruments
Haus am
8 Checkpoint Charlie
can be heard in this museum,
including Frederick the Greats
The museum at the former harpsichord (see p39). Dont
Allied checkpoint hosts an exhi- miss the silent-film organ which
bition documenting events 18th-century still works (noon, first
at the Berlin Wall (see p129). hunting horn Saturday of the month).
52 The Top 10 of Everything
Art Galleries
3 Alte
Nationalgalerie
MAP J5 Bodestr. 13
10am6pm TueSun (to
0 km 1
M STRASSE
MOABIT E
SE ASS
0 miles 1 RAS TO R
STR
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KURF
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Art Galleries 53
7 C/O Berlin
MAP N4 Amerika-Haus,
Historic Buildings
1 Brandenburger Tor
More than a mere symbol, the
4 Reichstag
The seat of the Deutscher
Brandenburg Gate is synonymous Bundestag, the German parliament,
with Berlin (see pp1213). with its spectacular cupola, is a
magnet for visitors (see pp1415).
2 Schloss Charlottenburg
This palace boasts Baroque
5 Berliner Rathaus
and Rococo splendours and a beau Map K6 Rathausstrae 15
the Hohenzollerns until 1861. Since (030) 203 092 101 Main hall apr
1994 the stately building with its Oct: 11am6pm; tours 3:30pm Mon
NeoClassical faade has been the Fri, 1pm Sun en.konzerthaus.de
official residence of the President of The Concert Hall, one of Karl
the Federal Republic. The modern, Friedrich Schinkels masterpieces,
eggshaped Presidential Offices was formerly known as the
stand next to the old palace. Schauspielhaus (theatre). The
STRA T H A L ER
0 metres 1000 AS
SE
F R I E D R IC H
TR
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IDE M
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Tiergarten FISCHER-
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RASSE
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3.5 km .
TR
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SPITTEL-
STRASSE
RA LL EE
MARKT
T I E RGART E N S T R A S S
E LEIPZIGER
POTSDAMER
PLATZ
DIPLOMATENVIERTEL
Historic Buildings 55
Hackesche Hfe
7 Map J5 9 Altes Museum and
Lustgarten
Rosenthaler
The faade of the Old Museum,
Str. 4041 possibly one of the most attractive
This complex of 19th-century Neo-Classical museum buildings
buildings has eight interlinked in Europe, is remarkable for the 18
courtyards, some of which are Ionic columns supporting a portico.
decorated in Jugendstil style, Built in 1830 to Karl Friedrich
originally by August Endell. In Schinkels design, it was at the time
the early 1990s the complex was one of the first buildings to be
completely renovated. The first created specifically as a museum.
courtyard is particularly attractive: Originally it was to house the royal
coloured glazed tiles with geometric collection of paintings; today it is
patterns decorate the house home to a collection of antiquities.
from the foundations up to the In front of the museum is a garden
guttering. In the last courtyard, designed by Peter Joseph Lenn.
trees are grouped around an Conceived as the kings herb garden,
idyllic well. The Hackesche today it is decorated
Hfe is one of with a 70-ton granite
Berlins most bowl by Gottlieb
popular hotspots; Christian Cantian, and
restaurants, cafs, a fountain (see p25).
a cinema and the
Chamleon musical theatre
and variety show (see p66)
0 Zeughaus
Designed by J A Nering
attract visitors from afar. as the first Berlin Baroque
building, the former Royal
8 Siegessule
The Victory Column
Prussian Arsenal is now the
Deutsches Historisches
in Tiergarten is topped by Museum (see pp1619), with
the statue of Victoria. Siegessule a modern addition by I M Pei.
56 The Top 10 of Everything
Modern Buildings
0 metres 1000
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1 Sony Center
The spectacular Sony Center,
3 Bundeskanzleramt
Map J/K2 Willy-Brandt-Str. 1
with its unique roof, is one of Berlins Not open to the public
largest structures (see p20). Berliners are not too fond of the
Chancellors modern offices,
although this is the only government
building to have been designed by a
Berlin architect. Axel Schultes
developed a vast, elongated office
complex, which extends north of the
Reichstag, in a bend of the Spree,
even stretching across the river.
In the centre of the hyper-modern
building stands a gleaming white
cube with round windows, which
Berliners quickly nicknamed the
Washing Machine. Critics describe
the design as pompous, while civil
servants dislike their small offices.
Glass membrane roof, Sony Center The interior of the building is
decorated with valuable modern
2 Neue Nationalgalerie
Map E4 potsdamer Str. 50
paintings. The Chancellors office
on the 7th floor has a view of the
10am6pm TueFri (until 8pm Thu), Reichstag building.
11am6pm SatSun admission
charge Closed until 2019 for
remodelling www.smb.museum
This impressive structure was built
in 19658 by Mies van der Rohe. It
was the first building by the pioneer-
ing Bauhaus architect after his emi-
gration to the USA. He used his
earlier designs for the Havana head-
quarters of the Bacardi company,
which had been abandoned after the
Cuban Revolution (see p38). Exterior of the Bundeskanzleramt
Modern Buildings 57
8 Nordische Botschaften
Map N6 Rauchstr. Gallery
Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
9 DZ Bank on Pariser
Platz
Map K3 pariser platz 3 Lobby
Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
4 Map N4 Fasanenstr. 85
10am6pm MonFri
This elegant building by Frank Owen
8am6pm MonFri Gehry combines Prussian and
The seat of the Berlin Stock modern architecture. The giant
Exchange, Ludwig-Erhard-Haus dome inside is remarkable (see p12).
was designed by British architect
Nicholas Grimshaw in 19948.
Locals refer to it as the armadillo,
because the 15 giant metal arches
of the domed building recall the
animals armour.
5 Philharmonie and
Kammermusiksaal
Two modern concert halls in the
Kulturforum were designed by
Hans Scharoun in 1961 and 1987
respectively the Kammermusiksaal
(chamber music hall) was completed
after Scharouns death in 1972
according to his plans by his pupil
Edgar Wisniewski. Both buildings
are renowned for their excellent
acoustics as well as for their tent-
like roof structures (see pp3841).
6 Hauptbahnhof
Map J2 Hauptbahnhof
Spectacular interior of the DZ Bank
2 StMapHedwigskathedrale
K4 Bebelplatz
1 Berliner Dom
Map K5 am Lustgarten
Berlins largest Catholic church
was built by Frederick the Great in
(030) 20 26 91 19 aprSep: 9am 174773 after his conquest of Silesia
8pm daily; OctMar: 9am7pm daily (see p16).
(Opening hours subject to concert
schedule, check website) admission
charge www.berlinerdom.de 3 Marienkirche
Work started in 1270 on the
Berlin Cathedral, the largest and most Church of St Mary, which nestles at
lavish church in the city, was reopened the foot of the Fernsehturm. Gothic
in 1993, after almost 40 years of and Baroque in style, it has an
restoration work. Designed by Julius impressive Neo-Gothic tower, added
Raschdorf between 1894 and 1905, in 1790 by Carl Gotthard Langhans.
the building reflects the empires The font (1437) and the fresco Dance
aspirations to power. In particular, of the Dead (1485) are among the
the black marble imperial stairs oldest treasures of the church.
are a sign of the proximity of the The richly ornamented Baroque
pulpit was made by
0 metres 750 Andreas Schlter in
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building, this was built in
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1230 in the Nikolaiviertel
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quarter. The present
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church dates to around
OT
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1300. It is particularly
SP
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famous for the portal on
DA
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the west wall of the main
R
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5 km
Schlter. It is adorned
M
STR A
AM
L A U E R S T RA S S E
BR
ND
TE
LE
ST
depicting a goldsmith
H
R.
MITTE
M
8 km
and his wife. The church
Churches and Synagogues 59
7 Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedchtnis-Kirche
A landmark in West Berlin, the Kaiser
Wilhelm Memorial Church success-
fully combines modern architecture
with the ruins of the church tower
(see pp323).
8 Friedrichswerder
Kirche
sche
Werderscher Markt Closed for
restoration
This Neo-Gothic church, built in
182430, has an impressive faade.
Originally it was meant to serve the
German and French communities
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedchtnis-Kirche of the Friedrichswerder district.
Beautiful dome of
the Neue Synagoge
60 The Top 10 of Everything
2 Schlosspark
Charlottenburg
MAp A/B3 Schloss Charlottenburg,
Spandauer Damm from sunrise to
sunset daily www.spsg.de
The Palace Park is one of the most
attractive and charming green
spaces in Germany. Immediately
behind Schloss Charlottenburg is
a small but magnificent Baroque The folly at Pfaueninsel
garden, and beyond this extends a
vast park, dating back to the early
19th century. It was landscaped in
4 Pfaueninsel
Peacock Island, an island in
the English style and boasts artificial the middle of Groer Wannsee that
lake and river landscapes, small can be reached only by ferry, is
hidden buildings and idyllic shaded probably the most romantic spot in
groves on the banks of ponds and Berlin. In the 19th century, the island
streams. The park is ideal for stroll- served as a love nest for King
ing, and it is also a favourite place for Friedrich Wilhelm II. His charming
sunseekers (see pp347). folly of a palace ruin was in keeping
with the tastes of the time. Today
dozens of proud peacocks live in the
area around the building (see p151).
5 Botanischer Garten
Knigin-Luise-Str. 68 (garden
and museum) (030) 83 85 01 00
9am to sunset daily (garden); 10am
6pm daily (museum) Admission
charge www.bgbm.org/en
The 19th-century Botanical Garden
is a paradise of flowers and plants
in the southwest of the city. The vast
area with 15 greenhouses was built
in the late 19th century around
gentle hills and picturesque ponds.
The Belvedere, Charlottenburg park The Great Palm House by Alfred
Parks and Gardens 61
6 Viktoriapark
Kreuzberg
and
Friedrichsfelde, and houses some Not suitable for swimming, but the
860 animal species (see p147). surrounding meadows are idyllic and
the lakeside walks popular.
9 Treptower Park
The 19th-century garden on
7 krumme Lanke, Fischerhttenweg
Although many consider the lake not
the banks of the Spree has become clean enough for bathing, it seems
famous for the Soviet Memorial, cleaner (but colder) than Schlachtensee.
which stands next to the graves of 8 Landwehrkanal
7,000 Red Army soldiers (see p146). mAp m/N5 Ltzowplatz
and situated in a lovely park, has This tranquil lake is hidden in the vast
been authentically refurbished Groer Tiergarten park. On its banks is
with historical furniture from the the Caf am Neuen See (see p117).
Grnderzeit period after 1871.
62 The Top 10 of Everything
2 Unterwelten Museum
MAP G1 Brunnenstrae 105
Tieranatomisches
Sat Admission charge
www.monsterkabinett.de
Currywurst
mascot Theater 0
Run by the Dead Chickens art MAP J3 Philippstrae 12 (030)
collective, this installation features 209 346 625 26pm TueSat www.
robots that interact with visitors. The kulturtechnik.hu-berlin.de
20-minute tour with heavy metal Nestled in a remote university court-
soundtrack and lightshow ends with yard, the Veterinary Anatomical Theatre
a blast of anti-monster spray that is Berlins oldest surviving academic
blows the head off one creature. building, erected in 1789-90. Wander
through the historical exhibition to
Mount Mitte
7 MAP F2 Caroline-Michaelis-
the circular lecture hall with dissection
table and spectator galleries.
Strae 8 2pmsunset MonFri,
8 Admiralbrcke
MAP H5 Fraenkelufer 25
PRENZLAUER
summer nights it fills BERG
S SE
BR
up with beer-drinking
EE
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revellers listening to
NST
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their hearts out.
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Museum
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MAP G4 Schtzenstrae L E I PZ I G E R S T R A
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10am6pm daily
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www.currywurst
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museum.de
TS
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Curried pork sausage is
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as the Reichstag. This
64 The Top 10 of Everything
Childrens Attractions
3 Grips-Theater
MAp D3 Altonaer Str. 22
2 Labyrinth
Kindermuseum
Osloer Str. 12 9am6pm Mon
Fri, 16pm Sat,11am6pm Sun
Admission charge www.
labyrinth-kindermuseum.de
Berlins Museum for Children is
particularly suitable for children at
the preschool stage and in the early
school years. Three or four themed
exhibitions each year deal with
subjects in a child-friendly and
entertaining way for example the Museum fr Naturkunde
Pots and Pans Orchestra. Every
exhibition is interactive, allowing
children to join in and experiment.
5 Zoologischer Garten
If you are visiting Berlin with
See website for details of special children you should not miss out on
exhibitions and events. the zoo. Particular favourites are the
Monkey House (with baby gorillas
and chimpanzees) and the Baby Zoo,
where kids are allowed to touch and
feed the young animas (see pp423).
6 Zeiss-Groplanetarium
Closed until autumn 2016
Artificial stars, planets and nebulae
take you to faraway galaxies under
the silvery dome of the planetarium
Labyrinth Kindermuseum (see p140).
Childrens Attractions 65
8 LEGOLAND
Centre
Discovery
MAP L2 Potsdamer Str. 4
10am7pm daily (last entry 5pm)
Admission charge www.legoland
discoverycentre.de
Apart from the 4D cinema and
rides at the worlds first indoor
LEGOLAND, thousands of LEGO
bricks are turned into replicas of
Berlin sights (see p21).
9 Puppentheatermuseum
MAP H6 Karl-Marx-Str. 135
A U E R AL L E E
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66 The Top 10 of Everything
2 Philharmonie
MAP L2 Herbert-von-Karajan-
Performance at the Deutsche Oper
Deutsche Oper
3 MAP B4 & M2 Bismarckstr. 35
Hackesche Hfe (030) 400 05 90
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Performing Arts Venues 67
5 Friedrichstadt-Palast
Map J4 Friedrichstr. 107
www.palast.berlin/en
Shiny glass tiles and a white, plumed
neon sign adorn the eyecatching
faade of the Friedrichstadt-Palast,
whose long-legged dancers are as
popular today as they were in the
1920s. The legendary original venue
was damaged during World War II
and replaced in the 1980s with this
building. Long celebrated as being
among the worlds best revues, the
performances have become even
more spirited and entertaining today.
6 Deutsches Theater
Map J3 Schumannstr. 13
Friedrichstadt-Palast
(030) 28 44 12 21 www.
deutschestheater.de/english and comedy, all under an amazing
Performances at the German mirror tent dating from the 1920s.
Theatre one of the best include Many stars of the international and
mainly classic plays in the tradition German cabaret scene can be seen
of Max Reinhardt. Experimental regularly among the performers
theatre by young playwrights is per- here, including Tim Fischer,
formed at the DT Baracke (see p98). Georgette Dee, the Pfister Sisters
and Gayle Tufts, as well as older
7 Theater des Westens
Map N4 Kantstr. 12 Ticket
stars such as Otto Sander.
Volksbhne
office: noon7pm Mon
Sat, 37pm Sun & hols 0 Map H2 Rosa-
www.bar-jeder- Luxemburg-platz (030)
vernunft.de/en/ 24 06 57 77 www.
This venue, whose name volksbuehne-berlin.de
means devoid of all German theatre director
reason, is Berlins most Frank Castorf has trans-
popular comedy theatre. Theater des formed this former Socialist
The cabaret offers a Westens stage into a theatre that has
humorous and, at times, become famous for its classy,
romantic programme of songs, exciting and at times controversial
chansons, reviews, cabaret, slapstick and experimental performances.
68 The Top 10 of Everything
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and Strae des 17. Juni 4th week 216 80 08 510pm TueFri, 48pm
end in June SatSun
Every summer, Germanys largest Berlins best-known advice centre
gay festival, Christopher Street Day, for gays offers help and advice of all
transforms Berlin into a giant street kinds. Apart from psychological
party, with thousands of gays and support relating to AIDS, safe sex
lesbians walking in a parade from and coming out, its counsellors offer
Kurfrstendamm down the Strae help in finding accommodation, give
des 17. Juni to Siegessule (see p80). support to those in troubled rela-
At night, the party continues in the tionships and provide legal advice.
citys many gay clubs and Kneipen. Mann-o-Meter is also a good starting
point for gay visitors to Berlin who
wish to find out about the gay scene,
and, last but not least, the caf is
also a good place to meet people.
4 SchwuZ
Rollbergstr. 26 (030) 629 08
who are shy and timid Toms is temporary exhibitions, the high and
a well-known pick-up joint. Below low points of gay and lesbian life
the (rather dark and dingy) Kneipe since the 19th century. Next to the
is a darkroom. museum is an archive, a small lib-
rary and a venue for cultural events.
6 Prinz-Eisenherz-
Buchhandlung
9 Caf Berio
Map D5 Motzstr. 23 Map E5 Maaenstr. 7
7 Connection
Map D5 Fuggerstr. 33
(030)
3 Hugos
Map N5
Budapester Str. 2
(030) 26 02 12 63
6:309:30pm Tue
2 Vox
Map F4 Marlene-Dietrich-
4 Bocca di Bacco
Map K4 Friedrichstr. 1678
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Best Places to Eat 71
5 Borchardt
Map K4 Franzsische Str. 47
(030) 81 88 62 62 11:30am
midnight daily
Everyone of importance, including
German chancellors, dines at
Borchardt. The historic room is
furnished in Wilhelminian style
(featuring tall columns, wall mosaics
and tile flooring) a stunning setting
for the modern French cooking and
schnitzel served here. Without a
reservation, however, even celebrities Courtyard dining at Facil
cant get a table.
8 Facil
Map L2 potsdamer Str. 3
Fischers Fritz
7 Map K4 Hotel Regent Berlin,
2nd courtyard (030) 814 529 430
noon11pm MonFri, 611pm Sat
SSE
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1 Green Door
Map E5 Winterfeldstr. 50
are adorned with enlarged photo-
graphs of nudes by Helmut Newton,
(030) 215 25 15 6pm2am Sun
after whom the bar is named. Dont
Thu, 6pm3am FriSat miss out on the Caribbean and Latin-
This Berlin classic never goes out of American cocktails (see p92).
style. A young urban crowd enjoys
some of the best drinks and cocktails
money can buy in Germany, mingling
at the minimalist retro-style bar and
along the curved, green walls. At
weekends, the place is packed to
bursting. Theres an outdoor bell,
but the door policy is pretty liberal
as long as you look sober.
5 Victoria Bar
Map E5 potsdamer Str. 102
7 Zwiebelfisch
Map N3 Savignyplatz 78
Weinbar Rutz
6 Map F2 Chausseestr. 8 (030)
216 70 92 9:30amlate daily (from
noon SatSun)
24 62 87 60 411pm TueSat Noisy yet laid-back, the Caf M
Berlins best (but pricey) wine bar Kneipe in Schneberg is (in)famous.
and shop is found downstairs from If you find the rock music too loud,
the award-winning restaurant of the try the tables outside.
same name (see p71). It offers over
1,000 wines, but Sommelier Billy
Wagner is on hand to assist you.
9 Kumpelnest 3000
Map E5 Ltzowstr. 23
0 Zum Nubaum
Map K6 am Nubaum 3
industrial halls of a giant former 9pm Thu, from 11pm Mon, Fri & Sat
power station and continues to Welcoming the citys hippest crowd,
deliver the latest in electronic the Felix is the jewel in the crown
music with a full programme of Berlins nightlife. Getting in is as
of visiting musicians and DJ sets. hard as finding a quiet spot in the
stylish dance club, but on special
2 Horns & Hooves
Map H1 Danziger Str. 1
weeknights quieter jazz programmes
are offered. During international
(0176) 70 08 42 69 from 10pm events in Berlin, the Felix is a sure
Tue, Thu & Sat thing for spotting celebrities.
This venue defines itself as a club,
a piano and jazz bar, a cabaret and
a circus, with eccentric furnishings
5 Spindler & Klatt
Kpenicker Str. 16 (030) 319
complementing the playful atmo 881 860 kitchen from 8pm daily,
sphere. You could see anything from club from 11pm FriSat
a burlesque show or a magic act, This event space doubles as a
to a vaudeville performance. It regular lounge with restaurant, but it
tends to attract a 30plus crowd. is famous for special events, mainly
dance nights and funky parties.
3 House of Weekend
Map J6 (0152) 24 29 31 40
6 Sage Club
alexanderstr. 7 from 11pm Map H4 Brckenstr. 1
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8 Sophienclub
MAp J5 Sophienstr. 6
3 Galeries Lafayette
Located within Quartier 207,
this small branch of the luxury
French department store specializes
in classic womens and menswear
on one level, and young fashion
upstairs. French delicacies are sold
in the food department (see p91).
4 Department
Quartier 206
Store
Map L4 Friedrichstr. 71 (030) 20
94 65 00 10am8pm MonFri,
10am6pm Sat
Kaufhaus des Westens This fashion store is one of the most
exclusive in town. Here, men can
1 Kaufhaus
(KaDeWe)
des Westens purchase Gucci or DKNY ties, while
women can try on Versace or Calvin
Map p5 Tauentzienstr. 2124 Klein. The threefloor store in the
(030) 212 10 10am8pm Mon Friedrichstadtpassagen also offers
Thu, 10am9pm Fri, 9:30am8pm Sat luxury homeware and lifestyle
Whatever you are looking for, you products (see p91).
will find it here, in Europes largest
temple of consumption. Over its eight
floors, the venerable Kaufhaus des
Westens (department store of the
West), affectionately called KaDeWe,
offers more than three million
products. On its gourmet floor, West
Berlins former shop window, you
can choose from 1,800 cheeses,
1,400 breads and pastries and 2,000
cold meats. The window displays and
inner courtyards are also worth a
visit in themselves (see p170).
5 Stilwerk
Map C4 Kantstr. 17
(030) 31
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78 The Top 10 of Everything
2 Tempelhofer Park
MAP G6 Tempelhofer Damm
and people barbequeing, doing Tai MAP 2F Bernauer Str. 111 (030) 46
Chi, flying kites and playing baseball. 79 86 66 Centre 9:30am8pm Tue
Sun www.berliner-mauer-
3 Open Door Days
MaySep www.visitberlin.de
gedenkstaette.de
The Berlin Wall Memorial is well
Beautiful private gardens, interiors worth a visit for its recreated death
of historic monuments, and the strip, excellent documentary centre
hallowed halls of government and dramatic stories of how East
ministries are opened to the public Germans escaped over (or under)
for a few days every year. Chancellor the hated barrier. Listening stations
Angela Merkel shakes hands with and displays are spread along the
visitors to her office. former border.
Berlin for Free 79
8 Museums
Many museums and galleries, Bode-Museum, Museumsinsel
including the Alliiertenmuseum 1 The citys public museums, including
(see p152) and Knoblauchhaus the comprehensive complex on the
(see p104) have no admission Museumsinsel, are covered by the
charge. Some of Berlins most popular Berlin Museum Pass (24).
prestigious museums, such as This offers free entry at participating
Gemldegalerie (see pp3840), the institutions on 3 consecutive days.
Pergamonmuseum (see p246) and 2 The berlinScheckheft (7.50 at
Alte Nationalgalerie (see p52) are newsagents) contains vouchers that
free to visitors under 18. offer steep discounts on restaurants,
museums, theatres, music events and
9 Holocaust-Denkmal
Designed by New York
other attractions.
3 Theatres and opera houses sell
architect Peter Eisenman, the reduced tickets at the door on the
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of day of the performance.
Europe consists of 2,711 concrete 4 Go gallery-hopping in the arty Mitte
pillars, many of them off-kilter and district. Here, Auguststrasse and
placed on undulating ground (see Linienstrasse teem with collections
p87). The underground Information open to the public.
Centre offers a moving introduction 5 Visit berlin.eintritt-frei.org for an
to the horrors of the Holocaust. up-to-date list of free events taking
place in the city.
0 Schlosspark Sanssouci
Fancy a stroll through a
6 Buy discounted public transport
tickets (such as a 4-pack or a day pass)
Romantic landscape painting? Just a or hire a bicycle to get around and see
half-hour from Berlin by commuter the city like a local.
train, these gardens in Potsdam are 7 Bus lines 100 and 200 take in many
strewn with ponds and whimsical of Berlins best sights for the price of a
follies, including an Orangerie, single fare.
Roman Baths modelled on an Italian 8 Take advantage of the good-value
villa and a Rococo-style Chinese set meals in cafs and restaurants,
house (see p158). particularly at lunchtime.
9 Comb through the vast Mauerpark
flea market for unique vintage and
retro finds. The market runs all day
on Sundays (see p140).
10 If you are a visitor from outside
the EU and are leaving the EU with
purchased goods, remember to get a
refund on Germanys 19 per cent sales
tax. Ask sales staff at stores for an
Ausfuhrbescheinigung (export papers).
The charming Schlosspark Sanssouci
80 The Top 10 of Everything
3 Internationale
Funkausstellung (IFA)
Map a5 CityCube Berlin (030) 30
38 30 00 every year in early Sep
admission charge
Berliner Filmfestspiele
1 Map L2 4 Christopher Street Day
Map p3/4 Kurfrstendamm
6 Lange
Museen
Nacht der
Berlin museums (030) 24 74 98 88
last weekend Aug www.lange-
nacht-der-museen.de
Admission charge
cultural and gastronomical fair for The Six-Day Race is one of Berlins most
everyone. Nowhere else can you venerable sports events.
enjoy a culinary journey around the 4 Tempelhofer Park
world in such a condensed space. MAp F6 www.tempelhofer-park.de
Admission charge
1st Jan
Top designers and local talent This New Years Day Run is for those
present their new collections. who are fit and not afraid of the cold.
6 Internationales Stadionfest (ISTAF)
Karneval der Kulturen
9 MAp G/H5/6 Kreuzberg
Olympiastadion Summer
triathlon-service.de
The worlds largest tourism fair
Amateurs can register online for this.
offers uptodate travel information
to the general public, often at 10 Berliner Motorradtage
Kurfrstendamm end Mar
elaborately designed stalls. The
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Central Berlin: Unter den Linden 85
1 Brandenburger Tor
Map K3 pariser platz
2 Humboldt-Box
Map K5 Schlossplatz 5
and Bebelplatz
The historic structures of this
RA
E N S ET N S TS RS A
E SSE
complex are among the citys finest.
CKSCKS
HACKESCHER
HACKESCHER
MARKT
MARKT
DIR DIR From 1740, Frederick the Great
Monbijou-
Monbijou-
park
park
E
SS SS
E
commissioned the prestigious
RA RA
Hackescher
Hackescher H
ST ST
H Neo-Classical buildings for the
B UR G S T
B UR G S T
C C
RO RO
Markt
Markt
area around todays Bebelplatz and
SE SE personally influenced their design:
RAS S
RAS S
AS AS
Friedrich-
Friedrich- T RS T R Deutsche Staatsoper, the Catholic St
E
E
S
- -
Hedwigskathedrale, Alte Bibliothek
brcke
brcke
HT HT
EC EC
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SS SS
RA RA B K NB K N and Prinz-Heinrich-Palais, later the
E E
ST ST
LI LI Humboldt University. A memorial set
AM
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SP
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brcke Palais and a statue of Old Fritz,
surrounded by his buildings.
PO
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tricorn hat and coronation mantle.
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figure the wrong way around.
RS RS
TR TR Top 10 Sights
NI N AS AS
ED IED
ER ER SE SE see pp8589
WA WA
LL LL
ST ST
RA RA
Restaurants FrederiCk as arChiteCt
SS SS see p93
E E
Forum Fridericianum was not only
The Best of the Rest Frederick the Greats memorial to
see p90 himself, it also ensured that Unter den
Pubs and Bars Linden became one of the greatest
KR AUS
KR AUS TR EASS E
TR ASS
ENS ENS see p92 boulevards in Europe. The king, who
Shops favoured a Neo-Classical style, himself
ZEN. STR . see p91 drew up plans for the buildings, and
SCH T
SCH TSTR
ZEN
Knobelsdorff executed his ideas.
86 Berlin Area by Area
4 Museumsinsel
Map J5 pergamonmuseum,
Nationalgalerie, the Bode-Museum
and the Altes and Neues Museums,
Bodestr. 13 (030) 266 424 242 including the famous gyptisches
10am6pm daily, to 8pm Thu Museum (see pp2427).
admission charge alte
6 Friedrichstrae
Map JL4 Mitte
Historic Mitte Walk
7 Holocaust-Denkmal
Map L3 Ebertstr. (06) 26
whose gourmet food department
is perfect for a snack lunch.
39 43 36 Information Centre:
AFternoon
10am8pm TueSun (OctMar: to
7pm) www.stiftung-denkmal.de After lunch, indulge in a spot of
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews shopping at Galeries Lafayette
of Europe serves as Germanys and at Department Store
Quartier 206 just down the
national Holocaust memorial (see street (see p91). Then head to
p79). After years of debate, US star the beautiful gendarmenmarkt
architect Peter Eisenman completed square nearby. Take some time
the monument in 2005. It consists of to admire its Konzerthaus and
a large field with dark grey steles of the imposing Deutscher and
varying heights up to 2 m (6 ft) high, Franzsischer Dome. The latter
which symbolize the six million Jews holds regular classical music
concerts check their website for
and others murdered by the Nazis in
the schedule. Round off your day
their concentration camps between with a meal at the gourmet Italian
1933 and 1945. Below the memorial, restaurant Malatesta (see p93)
an information centre explains the nearby on Charlottenstrae.
causes and history of the genocide.
See map on pp845
88 Berlin Area by Area
Wilhelmstrae
8 Map K/L3 9 Schlossplatz
Map K5 Mitte
Nazi architecture
One of few surviving examples of
the monumental architectural style
favoured by the Nazis is the former
Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Ministry
of Aviation), commissioned by
Hermann Gring in 19356 from
Ernst Sagebiel. The sandstone office
block was the worlds largest and
most modern, strengthened by
steel girders against attack. After
reunification, the Treuhandanstalt
(privatisation agency) was based
here; today it houses the Federal
Ministry of Finance (right).
Central Berlin: Unter den Linden 89
Morning
7 Komische Oper
Map K4 Behrenstr. 5557
Mauerstr.
The former headquarters of the
porcelain and cutlery manufacturer
WMF has remarkable faades
decorated with beautiful mosaics.
4 Alte Kommandantur
Map K5 Unter den Linden 1
5 Maxim-Gorki-Theater
Map K4 am Festungsgraben
(0700) 32 54 23 75 www.
daliberlin.de
2 english.gorki.de A rotating exhibition of some 400
This renowned theatre was once works by the 20th-century Surrealist,
Berlins Singakademie, or singing including drawings, lithographs,
school. Paganini and Liszt, among etchings, paintings, sculptures and
others, performed here. other three-dimensional works.
Central Berlin: Unter den Linden 91
Shops
1 Galeries Lafayette
Map L4 Friedrichstr. 7678
2 Quartier 206
Map L4 Friedrichstr. 71
Kulturkaufhaus Dussmann
This is where stylish Berliners shop
for up-to-the-minute and luxury
designer clothes. Shops include
7 Kulturkaufhaus
Dussmann
Gucci, DKNY and the Department Map K4 Friedrichstr. 90 (030) 20
Store Quartier 206 (see p76). 25 11 11
A mecca for culture junkies, this
3 Mall of Berlin
Map L3 Leipziger platz 12
store offers books, movies, computer
games, sheet music and a large
(030) 20 62 17 70 section of classical music. It is open
A shiny temple of retail commerce, until midnight on weekdays.
the Mall of Berlin occupies an entire
block and connects Leipziger Strae
and Wilhelmstrae with a passage.
8 Ritter Sport Bunte
Schokowelt
There are 270 shops and restaurants Map K4 Franzsische Str. 24 (030)
in this shopping centre. 20 09 50 80
The chocolate-makers flagship store
4 Jack Wolfskin
Map K4 Behrenstr. 23/corner
has fun merchandise, a chocolate-
themed exhibition and workshops.
of Friedrichstr. (030) 20 64 80 70
Stock up on apparel, equipment and
footwear before setting out on any
9 Escada
Map L4 Friedrichstr. 176179
6 Berlin Story
Map K4 Unter den Linden 40
Mannequins in Escada
(030) 20 45 38 42
Almost any book about Berlin, as
0 Bucherer
Map L4 Friedrichstr. 176179
Felix
3 Map K3 Behrenstr. 72
(030) 282 39 65 10:30am1am
daily
(030) 301 11 71 52 from 7pm The name harks back to the
Thu, from 11pm Mon & FriSat permanent West German repre-
Frequently visited by celebrities, this sentation in East Berlin. The pub
posh club is housed in a wing of the is famous for its Rhine specialities,
Adlon hotel. Wide variety of drinks such as Klsch beer.
available in the bar upstairs.
Map K4 Behrenstr. 37
(030) 20 64 41 64 9am10pm
(030) 460 60 90 noon11pm daily
MonSat
The stylish bar in Hotel de Rome An elegant lobby bar in the basement
prides itself on its top-notch drinks, of Q205 shopping centre, perfect for
boasting an inventive cocktail list. a quick healthy lunch or a snack.
Enjoy authentic Italian food in the Definitely try the delicious focaccias
relaxed ambience on the terrace. and carrot cake.
9 Brauhaus Lemke
Map J5 Dircksenstr.
0 Windhorst
Map K3
Dorotheenstr. 65 (030) 20
45 00 70 from 6pm Mon
Fri, from 9pm Sat
Sophisticated jazz bar with
bartenders whipping up your
Wooden interiors of Sra Bua Bar cocktail of choice.
Central Berlin: Unter den Linden 93
Restaurants
6 Dressler
Unter den
Linden
Map K3 Unter den
Linden 39 (030) 204
44 22 8am1am daily
1 Refugium
Map L4 Gendarmenmarkt 5
7 Opera Court
Map K4 Hotel de Rome,
A cosy cellar restaurant next to the Petit fours, scones, sandwiches and
French cathedral. International and tea are served beneath the gilded
German dishes. skylights at this historic caf that
boasts marble columns and an
2 Chipps
Map L5 Jgerstr. 35
original glazed ceiling.
(030) 36 44 45 88 9amlate
MonSat (to 5pm Sun) 8 Caf N
Map L3 Glinkastr. 23
(030)
9 Malatesta
501 541 00 10ammidnight Map L4 Charlottenstr. 59
0 Aigner
(030) 28 87 92 88 6pmmidnight Map K4 Franzsische Str. 25
Central Berlin:
Scheunenviertel
From the mid-19th-century onwards, the
Scheunenviertel (barn quarter) was
home to thousands of poor Jewish
migrants. After World War II the area
was entirely neglected and fell into
Richly decorated decay. It has experienced a regen-
Postfuhramt building eration in recent decades, and today,
many historic merchants yards and narrow side streets
have been restored, reviving the quarters unique and lively
character. With its new restaurants, galleries and shops,
the district has become fashionable. The tragic history
of its former inhabitants, however, remains unforgotten.
BRUN
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Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel 95
1 Neue Synagoge
MAP J4/5 Oranienburger
cjudaicum.de
Opened in 1866, the New Synagogue
was once the largest in Europe.
In 1938, it survived Kristallnacht
thanks to a brave guard, but it was
damaged by bombs during World
War II. Behind the splendid Moorish
faades are a prayer room and the
Centrum Judaicum (see p59).
2 Oranienburger Strae
MAP J4/5 Mitte, between
see p100
p97), for example, or the house at
WE BERG
RG
see p99
Friedrich Becherer for the Grand
WE
Rosenthaler
Rosenthaler
platz
platz
Lodge of the German Freemasons.
T O RT O R Rosa-
S T RS T R Rosa-
A S SA S S Luxemburg-
E E Luxemburg-
platz
platz
3 Hackesche Hfe
RO
RO
L I N ILEI N I
N SETNR S T R
Garnison-
Garnison- A S SAE S S E MAP J5 Rosenthaler Str. 4041
SE
SE
friedhof
friedhof
NT
NT
SSE SSE
SE
SE
STRA TRA
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LE
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buildings, Hackesche Hfe extends
ST
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between Oranienburger and
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courtyards, was designed around the
-B E E
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-B E E
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.
A D TS
A D TS
AL
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M M
N Z N Z Endell and Kurt Berndt, two leading
AlterAlter STR ST
A SR A S
exponents of the Jugendstil. The first
Jdischer
Jdischer
Friedhof
Friedhof SE SE
U-
RA
S E N SS ET N S TS RS A
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courtyard especially has elements
I R CDKI R C K
HACKESCHERD
HACKESCHER
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MARKT
typical of the style: geometric motifs
E
SS SS
E
on vibrant glazed tiles cover the
RA TRA
Hackescher
Hackescher C
ST
H CH S building from the foundations to the
BURGST R
BURGST R
RO RO
Markt
Markt alexanderplatz
alexanderplatz guttering. The complex has been
carefully restored and is now a
AS S
AS S
4 Museum fr Naturkunde
The Museum of Natural
History one of the largest of its kind
has the worlds largest dinosaur
skeleton: a brachiosaurus found in
Tanzania. Also displayed are fossils,
meteorites and minerals (see p51).
5 Sophienstrae
Map J5 Groe Hamburger
Str. 29
Narrow Sophienstrae has been
beautifully restored and looks as
it did in the late 18th century. The
buildings and courtyards now host
shops and arts and crafts workshops.
The Baroque Sophienkirche nearby,
the first Protestant parish church,
was founded by Queen Sophie Luise
in 1712. Next to it is a cemetery with Museum fr Naturkunde
some 18th-century tombs (see p98).
entrance are the graves of Heinrich
6 Dorotheenstdtischer
Friedhof
Mann (18711950) and Bertolt Brecht
(18981956); further along are the
Map F2 Chausseestr. 126 pillar-like tombstones of Johann
Summer: 8am8pm daily; winter: Gottlieb Fichte (17621814) and Georg
8amsunset daily Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel (17701831).
Many celebrities have found their final On Birkenallee (left off the main path)
resting place in this striking cemetery, are the graves of Karl Friedrich
dating back to 1762. To the left of the Schinkel (17811841), Friedrich
August Stler (180065) and Johann
Gottfried Schadow (17641850).
Jewish Berlin
In the 19th century, Berlin had a
population of 200,000 Jews, the largest 7 Brecht-Weigel-
Gedenksttte
such community in Germany. Apart Map F2 Chausseestr. 125 (030)
from the wealthier Jews who lived in 200 571 844 10amnoon, 23:30pm
the west of the city, it included many Tue; 1011:30am Wed & Fri; 10am
Jewish migrants from Eastern Europe.
noon, 56:30pm Thu; 10am3:30pm
They settled in Spandauer Vorstadt,
primarily in Scheunenviertel, an Sat; 11am6pm Sun admission
impoverished part of the district that charge www.adk.de/en/archive
had the reputation of being a criminal Bertolt Brecht, one of the greatest
red-light area. Later, Nazi propaganda playwrights of the 20th century, lived
used that name to denote the whole here with his wife, Helene Weigel,
area to tarnish all Jews by association. between 1953 and 1956. On display
Nazi stigmatization of Jews also are original furnishings, documents
included the enforced public wearing and photographs.
of a Star of David (below). The
Jewish quarter is still known
as Scheunenviertel,
but very few Jews
8 me Collectors Room
Berlin
live here now. Only Map G2 auguststr. 68 (030) 86 00
some 5,000 Jewish 85 10 noon6pm TueSun admis
Berliners survived sion charge www.meberlin.com
the 193345 Featuring the private collections of
persecution. Thomas Olbricht and other interna-
tional art collectors, this gallery has
Central Berlin: Scheunenviertel 97
9 Gedenksttte Groe
strasse
Neue
Hamburger Strae Synagoge
Gedenksttte
Grosse Hamburger
Bertolt-
Map J5 Groe Hamburger Str. Berliner Brecht-Platz strasse
www.jg-berlin.org/en.html Ensemble Friedrichstrasse
Before 1939, this was a thoroughly station
(030) 28 40 81 55
This theatre, established in 18912
by Heinrich Seeling, was the main
venue for Bertolt Brechts plays.
5 Hochbunker
Map J3 Reinhardtstr 20
Charit
1 Map J3 Schumannstr. 2021
Spree
A small park, in which once stood
(030) 450 536 156 Medizin the little Monbijou palace. It is now
historisches Museum; 10am5pm Tue, an attractive green space for a break.
Thu, Fri, Sun, 10am7pm Wed & Sat
Many renowned physicians, such as
Rudolf Virchow and Robert Koch,
7 Auguststrae
Map G2 Between
Strae auguststr.
Map J5 Hackescher Markt
In this small square, a
Alte Schnhauser Strae is monument of a table and
one of the oldest streets in upturned chair recall the
Spandauer Vorstadt. expulsion of the Jews.
The lively road is still
characterized by a
colourful jumble of
9 Sophienkirche
Map G3 Groe
Old Courtyards
1 Sophie-Gips-Hfe
Map G3 Sophienstr. 2122
7 Hof Auguststrae 5A
Map G3
Famous for the Hoffman art The extensive courtyard of the
collection, which is based here, this former Postfuhramt permits a
former sewing machine factory is a glimpse of the original faade of
popular meeting place. the building.
2 Sophienhfe
Map G3 Sophienstr. 1718
8 Rosenthaler
Map J5
Strae 39
9 Kunsthof
Map J4/5 Oranienburger
Str. 27
A courtyard full of nooks and
crannies, which is today occupied by
a number of workshops, offices and
cafs. Take a look at the richly
ornamented staircases.
Courtyards of Heckmann-Hfe
0 Kunst-Werke (KW)
Map G2 auguststr. 69
4 Sophienstr.
Map G3
22 and 22A
5 Rosenthaler
Map J5
Strae 37
6 Schulhof
Map G2 auguststr. 21
Str. 32 (030) 27 58 12 15
6pm2am TueSat
8 Yosoy
Map J5 Rosenthaler Str. 37
3 Betty F 0 Oxymoron
Map J5 Rosenthaler Str.
Map G2 Mulackstr. 13
(030) 4041 (030) 28 39 18 86 From
304 717 440 From 9pm daily 9am daily
A trashy gay and straight pub paying This small bar, club and restaurant
ironic homage to former US First in popular and lively Hackesche Hfe
Lady Betty Ford. Great cocktails. (see p95), features chintz decoration
and serves light German and
4 Reingold
Map F2 Novalistr. 11
(030)
international meals.
5 Grand Rocka
Map J5 am Zwirngraben 67
(030) 24 63 86 06 Daily
This bar and restaurant is a great spot
to people-watch and enjoy a cold beer.
6 B-flat
Map J5 Rosenthaler Str. 13
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
1 Pan Asia
Map J5 Rosenthaler Str. 38
(030) 27 90 88 11 noonmidnight
daily
Asian dishes, many with seared fish
and vegetables, are served in vintage
1960s surroundings. Fondue at Nolas am Weinberg
2 Keyser Soze
Map G3 Tucholskystr. 33
7 Nolas am Weinberg
Map G2 Veteranenstr. 9
8 Alpenstck
Str. 46 (030) 99 29 69 24 Map G2 Gartenstr. 9
DZ DZ
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SeeSee Nikolaiviertel
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ASS E
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H L HTLZ T Z inset,
inset, right
right - -
S C PSLCAP L A I R EE A I R EE
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Mrkisches SCHULTZE-
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SPITTEL-
SPITTEL- W A LWL AS LT LR SATSRSAE S S E Museum
Museum DELITZSCH-
DELITZSCH-
STRR.ST R.MARKT
IPZRIGE
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OH
OH
LEIGE
LE IPZ PLATZPLATZ
Central Berlin: Around Alexanderplatz 103
1 Alexanderplatz
Map J6 Mitte
most vibrant places in Berlin before
World War II and no doubt it will
The huge, largely desolate square be again some day. Alfred Dblin
in the centre of East Berlin, called beautifully captured the rhythm of
Alex by Berliners, was one of the the city in his world-famous novel
Berlin Alexanderplatz (1929). Not
much remains today of the once
frenzied atmosphere, although there
MO MO is plenty of bustle around the Galeria
LL LL Top 10 Sights
ST ST
RA RA see pp1035
Kaufhof department store (see p107).
SS SS
E E Alexanderplatz was originally a cattle
E
Restaurants
see p109
and wool market. Not many of the
prewar buildings have survived
The Best of the Rest
BE B
RO ERO
LIN LIN see p106
only Berolinahaus and Alexander-
AS AS
TR TR
. .
haus remain, next to the historic
Pubs, Cafs and
WE WE
YD YD
Beergardens
S-Bahn station Alexanderplatz, both
EM EM
EY EYE
ER
ST RSTR
R. see p108 dating back to 1929. The square
was almost completely laid to waste
.
Schillingstr.
Schillingstr. Shops and Markets
KA KA
RL RL see p107 in World War II, and most of the
JA J
CO ACO
-M -M
AR AR surrounding soulless tower blocks
X- X-
were built in the 1960s.
BY BY
ST ST
R. R. AL AL
LE LE
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UE UE
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2 Berliner Rathaus
BL BL
SE
SE
UM UM
EN EN
AS
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.
.
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STRAUSBERGER
TR
TR
R. R.
Map K6 Rathausstr. 15
TR
TR
PLATZ
NS
PLATZ
NS
ME
ME
GS
GS
Strausberger
Strausberger (030) 902 60 9am6pm MonFri
B LU
B LU
IN
IN
platzplatz
LL
LL
NE
NE
SC
SC
E E
SS SS
AN
AN
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the site of an older town hall. The
DA
DA
HO HO S ST SST
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R A RRAK R K TH TH
RA RA
ST SS
ST
S S STS- T -
the power and the glory of Berlin,
RA E
RA
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E
OP ROP
PR
PO
P
ST
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-
-
NIKOLAI-
NIKOLAI-
KIRCH-
KIRCH-
PLATZ
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Renaissance palazzi. The building
M
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3 Berliner Fernsehturm
Map J6 panoramastr. 1a
always successfully: some houses
were covered in prefabricated
(030) 24 75 75 37 MarOct: 9am faades. Knoblauchhaus was one of
midnight; NovFeb: 10ammidnight few to escape wartime destruction.
admission charge www.tv-turm.
Dating from 1835, it was the former
de/en/ home of the Knoblauch family (Neue
The 368-m (1,207-ft) high TV tower Synagoge was designed by architect
is the tallest building in Berlin, Eduard Knoblauch). Today it houses
affording views of up to 40 km a museum depicting everyday life
(25 miles). There is a viewing in Berlin, and includes a fully
platform at 203 m (666 ft). furnished apartment in the
The Sphere restaurant above Biedermeier style.
rotates once around its own
axis every 30 minutes. The
tower, visible from afar, was
5 Mrkisches
Museum
erected in 19659 by the Map L6 am Kllnischen
East German government park 5 (030) 24 00 21 62
to signify the triumph of 10am6pm TueSun
en.stadtmuseum.de
Nikolaiviertel
4 Map K6 Mitte
Berlins municipal museum
holds artefacts relating to
Knoblauchhaus: poststr. 23
the citys culture and history,
(030) 240 020 171
including architectural
10am6pm TueSun
treasures such as doorways
admission charge
Mrkisches and the head of one of the
www.en.stadtmuseum.de
Museum horses from the top of the
Centred around the medieval Brandenburg Gate. There
Nikolaikirche (see p58), the small is also a Gothic Chapel room with
Nikolaiviertel quarter with its nooks a collection of medieval sculptures.
and crannies, old Berlin restaurants
Marienkirche
and souvenir shops is one of the
most charming parts of the city. The
6 Map J6 Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 8
area extending between the banks of (030) 242 44 67 10am6pm Mon
the Spree River and Mhlendamm Sat, noon6pm Sun
was razed to the ground in World Originally built in 1270, Marienkirche
War II. East Germany restored it was extensively remodelled in the
after the war, unfortunately not 15th century. Thanks to its Baroque
church tower, it is one of Berlins
loveliest churches. Inside, the
alabaster pulpit by Andreas Schlter
(1703) and the main altar (1762) are
highlights. The 15th-century Gothic
font and a 22-m (72-ft) long fresco
from 1485, Der Totentanz (The Dance
of Death), are its two oldest treas-
ures. The church is now the only
reminder of the once densely built-
up historic city core here (see p58).
7 Marx-Engels-Forum
Map K5
Shortly after German reunification in
1989, the words Next time it will all
be different were scrawled onto this
Buildings in the Nikolaiviertel monument to Friedrich Engels and
Central Berlin: Around Alexanderplatz 105
Marx- Neptunbrunnen
00 21 62 10am6pm Tue & Thu Engels- Berliner Rathaus
Forum
Sun, noon8pm Wed admission Reinhards Strausberger
Platz
charge www.en.stadtmuseum.de Zur Gerichtslaube
Knoblauchhaus
This Rococo palace, built in 1766
for the merchant, court jeweller Mrkisches
and mint master Nathan Veitel Museum
Heinrich Ephraim, was once
regarded as the citys most beautiful Morning
spot. Rebuilt using original elements
after the old palace was demolished, Start your day at Strausberger
it houses a museum on Berlin Platz where you can admire the
products of Socialist architecture
art history.
lining Frankfurter Allee. Then
take the U-Bahn (or continue on
9 Neptunbrunnen
Map K6 am Rathaus
foot) to the vast Alexanderplatz
(see p103) where you can indulge
The green Neo-Baroque fountain, in a bit of people-watching or do
dating from 1895, depicts the sea a spot of shopping before heading
god Neptune. He is surrounded by to the beautiful Marienkirche.
four female figures, symbolizing Step back outside to admire the
lovely Neptunbrunnen fountain a
Prussias main rivers at the time: few steps away, then walk to the
the Rhine, Weichsel, Oder and Elbe. Berliner Fernsehturm and if
the weather is nice take the lift
up to the viewing platform. After
that, cross the square to the
Berliner Rathaus (see p103). The
town halls basement restaurant,
or Ratskeller, is an excellent
place for lunch, or you could
stroll past the statues of Marx
and Engels in the Marx-Engels-
Forum to the nearby historic
Nikolaiviertel and enjoy the rustic
fare at Reinhards (see p109).
Afternoon
24 74 96 11am10pm MonSat
The light yellow Baroque palace,
built in 17014, has been trans-
formed into Podewil, a cultural
centre, and a subsidiary of the
Grips-Theater (see p64).
6 Mrkisches
Map L6
Ufer
2 Franziskanerkirche
Map K6 Klosterstr. 74
8 Ribbeckhaus
Map K5 Breite Str. 36
3 Stadtmauer
Map K6 Waisenstr.
Discover a host of species living in
rivers, lakes and seas, and see
A fragment of the 13th14th-century amazing corals and tropical fish at
town wall that once surrounded the this fascinating centre, which boasts
twin towns of Berlin and Clln. the worlds largest cylindrical aqua-
rium (see p65).
4 Parochialkirche
Map K6
0 Historischer
Klosterstr. 67 Hafen
This church, by Johann Map L6 Mrkisches Ufer
Arnold Nering and Martin Museum MaySep:1
(030) 97 00 56 40 10am8pm
MonSat
Whimsical stock, with a fashion
focus, all created in Berlin. Exclusive
designer items include Breath of
Berlin perfume, bags and T-shirts.
6 U- and S-Bahnhof
Alexanderplatz
Map J6 alexanderplatz
1 Galeria Kaufhof
Map J6 alexanderplatz 9
7 Alexa
Map K6 am alexanderplatz,
The largest department store in This mall boasts some 180 retail
eastern Berlin stocks everything outlets, such as Build-a-Bear
your heart could desire. Its food Workshop, where kids assemble
department entices with a range their own teddy, and LOXX, the
of international gourmet foods. worlds largest digitally operated
model train set.
2 Die Puppenstube
Map K6 propststr. 4
8 Erzgebirgischer
(030) 242 39 67 9am6:30 Weihnachtsmarkt
pm MonSat, 11am6pm Sun Map K6 propststr. 8 (030)
Adorable dolls made from 241 12 29 11am7pm
porcelain and other materials MonSat
await, as do mountains of cute A vast array of stalls laden
fluffy teddy bears. with a range of German
handicrafts, including tradi-
3 Teddys
Map K6 propststr. 4
tional wooden nutcrackers.
Mnzstrae
(030) 247 82 44 10am6pm
daily 9 Map J6
An old-fashioned toy store with Wooden This tiny street, just off
probably the citys best selection nutcracker Alexanderplatz, is full of
of teddy bears, including brands original fashion boutiques
like Steiff. They also have bear and designer stores. A real mecca
clothing and accessories. for fashion aficionados.
4 TeeGschwendner
Map K6 propststr. 3
(030) 0 die mitte
Map J6 alexanderplatz
3 COME BUY
Map J5 Rosenthaler Str. 31
7 Caf Ephraims
Map K6 Spreeufer 1
(030)
8 tigertrtchen
(030) 242 42 44 summer: Map K6 Spandauer Str. 25
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
1 Reinhards
Map K6 poststr. 28
(030)
2 HEat
Map K5 Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3
hearty Berlin food and traditional
beers in a rustic setting.
(030) 238 283 472 6am11pm
daily
This ultra-chic fusion restaurant at
7 Marcellino
Map K6 poststr. 28
(030)
propststr. 9 (030)
(030) 241 56 25 11:30am
242 52 47 from 11am daily midnight daily
Named after the 19th-century Gigantic portions of delicious
Berlin illustrator and photographer traditional German food make up
Heinrich Zille, this tiny pub serves for the sometimes brusque service.
See map on pp1023
112 Berlin Area by Area
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Top 10 Sights R A ST R A
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see pp11315 A P ED A P L L IH
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Previous pages Early summer in the lovely wooded environs of Berlins Groer Tiergarten
The Tiergarten and Federal District 113
1 Reichstag
More than any of the other
2 Kulturforum
This unique complex of
landmarks in Berlin, the Reichstag modern buildings features the best
the seat of the German parliament museums and concert halls in
has come to symbolize German western Berlin (see pp3841).
history (see pp1415).
3 Groer Tiergarten
Map M5/6 Tiergarten
E
The Groer Tiergarten is Berlins
S SAE S S 0 metres
0 metres 500500
T RSAT R
E NDSE N
largest park, straddling an area of
LID LI
VA VA
IN IN
0 yards
0 yards 500500 200 hectares (494 acres) between
Humboldt-
Humboldt- the eastern and western parts of the
Hafen
Hafen Oranienburger
Oranienburger Tor Tor town. Formerly the Electors hunting
LUISENST
LUISENST
Hauptbahnhof
Hauptbahnhof
S d
pa
pa
TR.
TR.
e
e
Weidendammer
Weidendammer
Brcke
in the east of the park, more than
Brcke
Kronprinzenbrcke
Kronprinzenbrcke
TUNNEL B96
Friedrichstrasse
Friedrichstrasse
Bundestag
Bundestag
ree ree
Sp Sp
statues of monarchs and politicians.
Marschall-
Marschall-
brcke After World War II, the starving and
FR IED RIC HS
brcke
FR IED RIC HS
.
SESSE
EHNESETNR SATSR A
D O RDOOTRHOET freezing population chopped down
.
SCHEIDEMANNSTR
nearly all the trees for firewood and
SCHEIDEMANNSTR
PARPA R IS ER
dug up the lawns to grow food.
IS ER Brandenburger
Brandenburger
TR .
TR .
P LAT
PLAT Z Z Tor Tor
STRN.S T R .
Thanks to reforestation since the
N RE
1950s, the Tiergarten is today
RE
B E HB EH
W IL
W IL
HEL
HEL
R.
R.
E E Mohrenstr.
Mohrenstr.
L E NLNE N N
SS SS
RA RA
STST Stadtmitte
Stadtmitte
4 Siegessule
Map M6 Groer Stern
IGEST
R RA RAESS E
STSS admission charge
POTSDAMER
POTSDAMER LEI PZ PZR
LEIIGE
PLATZ
E S EPLATZ
E R EST
M
STSRS A S
R RA potsdamer
potsdamer In the middle of the Tiergarten
AM A platz
platz
stands the 62m (203ft) high Victory
SD
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A LTH A LT Austria in 1866 and France 1871, the
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IC
Bartholdy-park
Bartholdy-park ST ST
structure was crowned by a 35ton
H P SECR G
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5 Diplomatenviertel
Map E4 Between Stauffen
9 Gedenksttte
Widerstand
Deutscher A DAy Out
Map E4 Stauffenbergstr. 1314 Bundeskanzleramt
Reichstag
(030) 26 99 50 00 9am6pm Mon
Haus der
Wed & Fri, 9am8pm Thu, 10am6pm Kulturen der Welt
Afternoon
Hidden Treasures
1 Neuer See
Map M5 S-Bahn station
Schloss Bellevue is ideal for strolling
or relaxing at the Teehaus with
Tiergarten coffee and cake.
Shimmering in a mysterious
emerald green, the largest lake in
the Tiergarten is perfect for rowing.
7 Locks
Map M5 at the Zoo, S-Bahn
3 Lortzing-Denkmal
Map L1 stlicher Groer Weg
8 Estonian Embassy
Tiergartenufer Map E4 Hildebrandstr. 5
Docked on the banks of the Spree In a street next to the ruined Greek
River are some of the few remaining Embassy, this building is charac-
houseboats in Berlin an idyllic teristic of the diplomats quarter.
haven in the middle of the citys
bustle.
9 Landwehrkanal
Map M/N5/6 Corneliusstr.
Gaslights in
5 Tiergarten
The grassy banks of the
11-km (7-mile) long
Map M5 at S-Bahn Landwehrkanal are
station Tiergarten ideal for chilling out.
With 80 beautiful
historic gaslights
from different cities
0 Carillon
Map K1 John-
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
7 Lorenz Adlon
(030) 313 99 09 10am1am daily Esszimmer
(to 7pm winter) no credit cards Map K3 Unter den Linden 77
This small caf, right next to a lock, (030) 22 61 19 60 710:30pm
has a rustic beer garden and is very TueSat
popular with students. Superb European cuisine is on the
menu at this restaurant with two
3 Caf Einstein
Map E5 Kurfrstenstr. 58
Michelin stars in the Hotel Adlon.
(030) 26 39 19 18 8am1am daily
8 Brasserie Desbrosses
Map L2 potsdamer platz 3
Based in the villa belonging to the (030) 337 776 341 6:30am
film star Henny Porten, this is the 2:30pm, 5:30pm11pm daily
ultimate in Viennese style. An appealing, historic French
restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton.
4 Kfer im Reichstag
Map K2 platz der Republik
Its seafood is particularly good.
(030) 22 62 99 35 9ammidnight
9 Paris-Moskau
Map J1 alt-Moabit 141
Charlottenburg and
Spandau
The sophisticated haute bourgeoisie enclave of
Charlottenburg was the only Berlin district
that did not touch the Wall. The historical
streets off Kudamm feature galleries,
boutiques, cafs and restaurants set in
stout early 20th-century residential
houses. These streets and the proud town
hall remind us that this was once Prussias
Palace detail, richest town, which was only incorporated
Charlottenburg into the city of Berlin in 1920. Spandau, on
the other side of the Spree and Havel, is
almost rural in comparison, with a Late Medieval core and
citadel that make it seem like a small independent town.
1 Kurfrstendamm
This famous Berlin boulevard
Charlottenburg and Spandau
TEGE L
h g ra h g ra
b e n b e n Karpfenteich
Karpfenteich
and painters in the interwar years.
SO PH IE
ER
SO PH IE
ER
Today it is a lively avenue lined with
F R STE N B
F R STE N B
EG
S TRAUD
S TA D
- CH AR
- CH AR
Schlossgarten
Schlossgarten
M
NNER WEG
LO T TE
LO T TE
TRIN
TRIN
2 Schloss Charlottenburg
N- ST R.
N- ST R.
G
G
G
D A MDMA M M
The Baroque and English- S PA N D ANUDEAR U E R
S PA O
Westend
Westend
KN
KN
SE
SO PH IE
SO PH IE
I G I N - E L IS A
I G I N - E L IS A
RAS
RAS
Luisen-
RST
Luisen-
are stunning (see pp347).
ASS E
ASS E
- CH AR
- CH AR
Kirchhof II
Kirchhof II
SOO
SOO
BETH
BETH
LO T TE
LO T TE
STR . STR .
KNO BEL BELRFF
SDO SDO RFF
Spandau and berlin KNO
N -S TR
N -S TR
L SFDFOR
S DEOR
K N OBKENLOB
S T RFFASSTSREA S S E
B
- STR A S S E
- STR A S S E
AS SE
Sophie-Charlotte-
Sophie-Charlotte-
Kaiserdamm
Kaiserdamm platzplatz
be rather different sorts of people,
K A I S E R-F
.
M MM M
provincial and rough, and not real K A IKS AE IRSDEAR D A
WIND
WIND
.
.
STR
STR
RES
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T
ND
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M
IDST
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SU S W W
A L RAELNU-R E N - K A NKTASNT TR SATSRSAE S S E
point to their independent history.
SED
SED
LE E LE
RAS
RAS
E Witzleben
Witzleben
The mutual mistrust is not just a result
SE
SE
MES
MES
SE
SE
AS
AS
DER
DER
TR
SS
SS
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RE
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G R AS R AS
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0 metres
0 metres 500 500
centre is only a few U-bahn stops away.
0 yards
0 yards 500 500
Charlottenburg and Spandau 119
3 Zitadelle Spandau
Am Juliusturm 10am5pm
S M M E R I N G S T R A S SRE.
ST
ST
Top 10 Sights
1
FF
FF
A11
OR
OR
see pp11923
ND
ND
Siemensstadt
RE
RE
A 10 0
IE
IE
Restaurants
M
Richard-
see p125
00
Wagner-Platz
Wagner-Platz
OT OT
TO TO
-SU -SU Tiergarten
Tiergarten JU .NIJU NI
H R - AH R - A 17S. 17
SESDE
Z I L L ZE ISLTLREASSTSREA S S E Deutsche
Deutsche LLE LLE ST R ST ASDE
ASRSE
OperOper E E JU .NIJU NI
17S. 17
SESDE
Bismarckstr.
Bismarckstr. ST R ST ASDE
ASRSE
Charlottenburger T i e rTgar t e nt e n
i e r gar
Charlottenburger
T R A SRSAES SErnst-Reuter-
E Ernst-Reuter- Brcke
Brcke
MCAKRSC K S T
B I S BMI AS R NeuerNeuer
PlatzPlatz
ASSE
See See
ASSE
La L
nd and
TR.
TR.
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K A I S E R-F R IED
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we we
ENS
ENS
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LEIBNIZSTR
LEIBNIZSTR
ka ka
na na
S AN
S AN
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SD OR FE
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FR IED RI C H - S
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R
NB ENB
FA
FA
G O EG
THOEESTTHREASSTSREA S S E TH
G O EG OEESTTHREASSTSREA S S E
ER ER
GS GS
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R ST R.
R ST R.
TR TR
AS AS Zoologischer
Zoologischer
UHLAND-
UHLAND-
STRASSE
STRASSE
SE SE Garten
Garten
R. .
Wilmersdorfer
Wilmersdorfer RST STR
T R.
K ANKTST
ANR. STE STER
R.
LE
MO MM
MOSEN
MMSTR Uhlandstr.
Uhlandstr. M M Wittenberg-
Wittenberg-
SENASS
STREASS E AM M NT N
ND NDA damm
damm ZIE TZI
WI
WI
SH
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-
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STR ASS E
STR ASS E
ST
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MM MM
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J OA CH IM STAL ER
J OA CH IM STAL ER
Adenauerplatz
Adenauerplatz R S T RE S T E
K U RKFUR F STSE
ERR AS
ERRGST R AS SE Augsburger
STR A S SE
Augsburger
STR A S SE
BU
ENTZ RG
EN BU
LIE TZ
LIE
NES TOR STR .
Strasse
ST RA SS E E-
Strasse
ST RA SS E E-
CH
CH
NRNBERGER-
NRNBERGER-
S CH SIS
S CH SIS
PLATZ
PLATZ
120 Berlin Area by Area
and entertainment. The square has This elegant street is the most
two green spaces, either side of attractive and trendiest street off
Kantstrae. It was built in the 1920s Kudamm. Designer shops, galleries
as part of an effort to create parks in and restaurants are tucked away
the centre of town. Small paths, here, a shoppers paradise for all
Charlottenburg and Spandau 121
Afternoon
The Funkturm rising above the old ICC building at the Messegelnde
8 Funkturm and
Messegelnde
of Honour built to designs by Richard
Ermisch in 1936, in the colossal
Map a4/5 Messedamm 22 (030)
Fascist architectural style. On the
303 80 10am8pm Mon, 10am opposite side rises the shiny silver
11pm TueSun (tower) admission ICC, the International Congress
charge www.messe-berlin.de/en/ Centrum, built in 19759 by Ralf
The 150-m (492-ft) high Funkturm Schler and Ursulina Schler-Witte.
(TV tower), reminiscent of the Eiffel Once considered one of the worlds
Tower in Paris, is one of the land- most advanced conference centres,
marks of Berlin that can be seen it has fallen into a state of disrepair
from afar. Built in 1924 to plans by and may be demolished. Nearby is
Heinrich Straumer, it served as an the two-tier CityCube, Berlins new
aerial and as an air-traffic control trade fair and conference facility.
tower. The viewing platform at 125 m The expansive ExpoCenter grounds
(410 ft) provides magnificent views, (160,000 sq m/40 acres) around it
while the restaurant, situated at 55 host Grne Woche (Green Week,
m (180 ft), overlooks the oldest part an agricultural fair), Internationale
of the complex, the exhibition centre Tourismus Brse (ITB, a tourism fair)
and the surrounding pavillions. The and Internationale Funkausstellung
giant building in the east is the Hall (IFA, the consumer electronics fair).
Zitadelle
Spandau
U-BA
HN
Spandau
Old Town
Wilmersdorfer
Olympiastadion Strasse Florian
Georg-Kolbe-
Museum
Funkturm, S -BA H N Savigny-
Messegelnde platz
Morning
Afternoon
0 Kthe-Kollwitz-Museum
Map p4 Fasanenstr. 24
house) nearby and the Georg-
Kolbe-Museum (see p124), a
25-minute walk (or brief S-Bahn
(030) 882 52 10 11am6pm daily
admission charge www.kaethe
ride) away, are worth visiting.
Then, if you still have time and
kollwitz.de energy, take the S-Bahn to the
The museum is dedicated to Berlin Olympiastadion. In the evening,
artist Kthe Kollwitz (18971945), return to Savignyplatz by S75
who recorded 1920s workers lives in from S-Olympiastadion. End your
prints, graphics and sketches. After day by enjoying inventive, hearty
Franconian cooking at the famed
losing a son and a grandson in World
Florian (see p127).
War I, she concentrated on the
themes of war and motherhood.
See map on pp11819
124 Berlin Area by Area
1 Georg-Kolbe-Museum
Sensburger Allee 25 (030)
6 Olympiastadion
Olympischer platz (030) 25
Technische Universitt
5 MAp M4 Str. des 17. Juni
100 (030) 315 97 30, (030) 312
42 02 (tickets)
(030) 31 40 8am8pm MonFri A jem of Art Deco architecture,
Berlins Technical University was this little venue has been run as
founded in 1879. an actors theatre since the 1920s.
Charlottenburg and Spandau 125
7 Bcherbogen
Map N3 Stadtbahnbogen
32 59 32 39 10am8pm MonSat
4 Hallhuber
Map p5 Tauentzienstr. 18a
The latest must-have labels are
stocked at this streetwear store.
(030) 21 91 32 49
This huge upscale clothing store
offers the latest designer labels for
both men and women (DKNY, Paul
Smith and the like) as well as its
own less expensive house label.
5 Lindner
Map N3 Knesebeckstr. 92
guests can sit outside in the garden. A favourite of students and artists
since the 1850s, this caf has a great
2 Caf Savigny
Map N3 Grolmanstr. 5354
atmosphere and reasonable prices.
(030) 32 89 06 61 9am1am daily
This gay and lesbian caf, with
7 Balzac Coffee
Map M3 Knesebeckstrae
8 Der Kuchenladen
Map N3 Kantstr. 138
(030)
31 01 84 24 10am6:30pm daily
no credit cards
Berliner Kaffeersterei
9 Caf Kleine Orangerie
Map a3 Spandauer Damm
beans from around the world, cakes 313 80 38 open around the clock
and breakfast snacks. This alternative rock caf offers
excellent all-day breakfasts and
4 Caf Filmbhne am
Steinplatz
is often packed until dawn.
5 Einstein Coffeeshop
Map p3 Kurfrstendamm
9am Sun)
Probably the most popular outlet of
this upmarket chain, this revamped The bohemian Schwarzes Caf
Charlottenburg and Spandau 127
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
1 Francuccis
Map B5 Kurfrstendamm 90
Alt-Luxemburg
2 Map B4 Windscheidstr. 31
(030) 313 91 84 6pm3am
daily
(030) 323 87 30 5pmmidnight Fine Franconian food inventive,
MonSat robust and steadily high-quality
Since 1982, chef Karl Wannemacher is on offer at this famed restaurant.
has been dishing up exquisite French Trendy and popular with film lovers,
and German classics here. particularly during the Berlinale.
3 Eiffel
Map B5 Kurfrstendamm
7 Lubitsch
Map N/p3 Bleibtreustr. 47
Die Quadriga
4 Map p4 Eislebener Str. 14
(030) 25 02 10 20 noon3pm,
6:3011pm TueSat
(030) 21 40 50 710:30pm Tue Award-winning gourmet restaurant
Sat in the Hotel Palace (see p172) serving
With talented chef Andr Haufler at German and French food.
the reins, this intimate restaurant,
in the Dormero Hotel (see p173)
pairs creative French cuisine with
9 Marjellchen
Map p3 Mommsenstr. 9
31 50 78 16 noon11pm daily
no credit cards
0 Ana e Bruno
Map a3 Sophie-Charlotten-
Thanks mainly to its exquisite sushi Str. 101 (030) 325 71 10 5pm
and mixed Asian hot dishes, this midnight daily
minimalist restaurant has a loyal Friendly and extremely elegant,
clientele and ranks among the best Ana e Bruno is an excellent Italian
sushi bars in town. restaurant in Berlin.
See map on pp11819
128 Berlin Area by Area
Kreuzberg, Schneberg
and Neuklln
Before the Wall fell, Kreuzberg was a hotbed of
squatters, hippies and anarchists. Despite rapid
gentrification it is still the citys most colourful
area. Here, a diverse community of doctors,
Checkpoint lawyers, artists, students and Turkish families
Charlie harmoniously coexists in beautifully renovated
petit-bourgeois flats. The adjacent Neuklln is
Berlins most trendy area for art galleries, grunge-hip bars
and clubs, particularly along Weserstrae Schneberg is
not as daring as Kreuzberg, but still evokes a free-minded
spirit. Here, Winterfeldtplatz is lined with inviting pubs, and
Nollendorfplatz is the nexus of Berlins lively gay scene.
M IM
T TI TET E
W IL
W IL
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E E
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POTSDAMER
see p135 PLATZ
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Pubs, Bars and SC
H C HI E I E Mendelssohn-
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Kreuzberg, Schneberg and Neuklln 129
1 Deutsches
Technikmuseum
Map F5 Trebbiner Str. 9
(030) 90 25 40 9am
5:30pm TueFri, 10am6pm
SatSun admission charge
(kids free after 3pm) www.
sdtb.de
The history of technology
and crafts is the theme of
this museum, located in the
grounds of a former railway
goods yard. Visitors can
learn about developments
in aviation and admire
40 planes, including a Exhibits at the Deutsches Technikmuseum
Junkers Ju 52 and a raisin
Jdisches Museum
bomber, the type of plane used
for the Berlin airlift. Old ships and Map G5 Lindenstr. 914 2
steam locomotives hark back to the 10am10pm Mon, 10am8pm
N E S T RR O S E
PEN PEN ee ee
UE AS
UE AS S
ICK ICK
ER ER
narrow galleries with slanting floors
RO SE
Heinrich- S T R . S T R .
Heinrich-
SS
S
Heine-Str.
Heine-Str.
R.
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.
STR
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INE
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TR TR
spersed by voids embodying
ICH
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AS AS
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INR
INR
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Moritzplatz
Moritzplatz the destruction of Jewish
E
E
SE
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SS
SS
RA
RA
AS
AS
ST
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TR
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EL
LS
LS
1,000 years of
SE
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RIT RIT
TE TE
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GermanJewish
MI
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cultural history; a
IN Z
IN Z
Kottbusser
Kottbusser
Tor Tor OR OR
PR
PR
AN AN
S T RSATSRSAES S E RE RE
I E I E
NS NS
TR TR
special exhibition
evokes everyday
ICH ICH AS AS
cklerpark
Bcklerpark EN EN SE SE
BE BE
RG RG
K RKERUEZUBZEBREGR G
ER ER
ST ST
R. R. Jewish life in
E
UF UF
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P L A NP L A N
E R
Berlin from the
end of the 19th
E
E
SS
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MA MA
YB YB
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RA
AC AC
century (see p50).
TTB
TTB
HU HU
Jdisches
ST
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FE FE
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FE
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US
US
Schnleinstr.
Schnleinstr.
Museum
AE
AE
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SER
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GR
GR
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AS AS AN AN
TR TR
R E U TE R S T R A S S E
R E U TE R S T R A S S E
STR STR
ES ES
RT RT
AS AS
SE SE Checkpoint Charlie
DA
DA
K K
Map G4 Friedrichstr. 4345
MM
MM
Sdstern
Sdstern
H A SH A S
E N HE N H
E I D EE I D E (030) 253 72 50 9am10pm daily
admission charge www.
Standortfriedhof Hermannplatz
Standortfriedhof Hermannplatz SO S
NN ONN
Lilienthalstr.
Lilienthalstr. EN EN
KA KA AL AL
RL RL LE LE
E E mauermuseum.de
H E R MA
H E R MA
Volkspark
Volkspark -M -M
Hasenheide
Hasenheide AR AR
X- X-
ST ST
This museum details the history of
R. R. the Wall and the means people used
NNST R.
NNST R.
5 Anhalter Bahnhof
Map F5 askanischer platz 67
Only pitiful fragments remain of the railway station. In 1943 the station
railway station that was once the was badly damaged by bombs and in
largest in Europe. The giant struc 1960 it was pulled down. The waste
ture was erected in 1880 by architect ground behind the faade was meant
Franz Schwechten as a showcase to become a park, but today the
station: official visitors to the Empire Tempodrom is based here, hosting
were meant to be impressed by the concerts and cabaret shows.
splendour and glory of the German
capital as soon as they reached the
6 Oranienstrae
Map G4H5 Between
7 Nollendorfplatz
Map E5
Nollendorfplatz and neighbouring
Winterfeldtplatz are right in the
centre of Schneberg. The former
square has always been a focal point
for Berlin's gay scene, and a plaque
at the Nollendorfplatz UBahn
station commemorates approx
imately 5,000 homosexuals killed in
The ruins of the Anhalter Bahnhof concentration camps by the Nazis.
Kreuzberg, Schneberg and Neuklln 131
HN
U-BA
novel formed the basis of Cabaret, Baerwald-
the famous musical and film. Viktoriapark
strasse
8 Viktoriapark
Map F6 Kreuzbergstr.
Luftbrcke
Morning
This rambling park (see p61) was
set up as a recreational space for Start from the ruins of Anhalter
workers in Kreuzberg in 188894 Bahnhof, which you can reach
by S-Bahn. From here continue
to plans by Hermann Mchtig. It has along Stresemannstrae in a
an artificial waterfall, and the Neo- northwesterly direction to the
Gothic Schinkel memorial, 66 m Martin-Gropius-Bau. While away
(216 ft) high, commemorates a few hours in this impressive
Prussian victory in the Wars building, then take a break in the
of Liberation against Napoleon. museum caf. Afterwards, a visit
to the neighbouring Topographie
des Terrors exhibition will bring
you face to face with the dark
Nazi past of this area. Walk along
Niederkirchnerstrae, past an
original section of the Berlin Wall,
to Wilhelmstrae. Continue to
Zimmerstrasse and visit some of
the many contemporary art gal-
leries lining the street. Walk on
to Friedrichstrasse to Checkpoint
Charlie and the Wall Museum at
the former border (see p129).
Afternoon
It was from this town hall in 1963 loveliest, which was built in 18946.
that US President John F Kennedy
made his famousI am a Berliner
speech, expressing his commitment
6 Altes Mosse-Palais
MAP G4 Kochstr.
the early 1980s, with sound and Many celebrities lie buried in
light installations. these four cemeteries, including
the composer Felix Mendelssohn
Bartholdy and the writer E T A
Hoffmann, whose work inspired
Offenbach to compose his opra
fantastique The Tales of Hoffmann.
8 Gasometer Schneberg
MAP E6 Torgauer Str. 1215
5 Oberbaumbrcke
Warschauer/Skalitzer Str.
Pedestrians and cyclists can cross
to the other side of the Spree River The faade of Kammergericht
Kreuzberg, Schneberg and Neuklln 133
611 46 55
This small boutique sells the latest
streetwear and hip-hop fashion of a
local label.
7 High-Lite
Map G6 Bergmannstr. 99
(030) 691 27 44
Worried about standing out in the
alternative crowd in Kreuzberg?
Fruits at Winterfeldtmarkt This is the place to get your shades,
body piercings and other counter-
1 Winterfeldtmarkt
Map E5 Winterfeldtplatz
culture essentials.
8am4pm Sat, 8am1pm Wed
At Berlins largest market you can
8 Ararat
Map G6 Bergmannstr. 99a
(030) 216 33 54
Irresistible trinkets are sold at this
charming Scandinvian design shop. Japanese manga
6 Rauschgold
Map F6 Mehringdamm 62
(030) 78 95 26 68
Very popular, best late at night and
very crowded at weekends. Karaoke,
themed nights and a mixed crowd.
7 Golgatha
Map F6 Dudenstr. 4864
1 Ankerklause
Map H5 Kottbusser Damm
8 SO36
A Kreuzberg classic, the SO36
104 (030) 693 56 49 is an ber-alternative and very lively
An unrefined but hugely popular dance club. The crowd is a good mix
late-night place with a mixed crowd. of straight and gay (see p69).
2 Yorckschlsschen
Map F6 Yorckstr. 15 (030)
9 Wrgeengel
Map H5 Dresdener Str. 122
(030) 69 51 59 11
Traditional Berlin tavern with
touches of Jugendstil that fronts as The rooftop bar at Klunkerkranich
Kreuzberg, Schneberg and Neuklln 135
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
1 Lavanderia Vecchia
Map H6 Flughafenstr. 46
(030) 62 72 21 52 noon2:30pm
& 7:3011pm TueFri, 7:3011pm Sat
Schtzenstr. 5
81 79 71 11 from 4pm daily no
(030) 20 16 54 96 noonmidnight credit cards
MonFri, 6pmmidnight Sat, 611pm An intimate restaurant serving
Sun modern Turkish food.
Ever since Madonna enjoyed a meal
here the usually low-key Entrecte
has become the talk of the town.
7 Long March Canteen
Map H5 Wrangelstr. 20
26 (030) 25 93 79 30 noon
1:30pm & 7pmmidnight TueSat 0 Sale e Tabacchi
Map G4 Rudi-Dutschke-Str.
Prenzlauer Berg
Having undergone dramatic changes in recent
decades, this former East Berlin workers district
attracts locals and visitors like no other part of
town. Even when Berlin was a divided city, the
area was favoured by artists and an alterna
tive crowd, and it exerts a similar pull today.
Although it is still possible to find structures
that have not yet been restored and give a
sense of the old Berlin, Prenzlauer Berg is
Gethsemane-
being steadily and noticeably transformed.
kirche, detail Many young professionals, decried as yuppies
by locals, are restoring old buildings. Cafs
and restaurants have taken over tenement blocks around
Kollwitzplatz and Husemannstrae, giving the leafy streets
an almost Parisian flair, while Kastanienallee, also known
as Casting Alley, is the catwalk of the hip young scene.
congregate in the numerous cafs,
pubs and restaurants. From the
lavishly restored faades it is hard
to tell that this was once one of the
citys poorest areas. The districts
19th-century tenement blocks and
impoverished past are today only
recalled by the name of the square.
The artist Kthe Kollwitz (see p49)
once lived and worked at No. 25
(now destroyed), from where she
highlighted the poverty of the local
Schnhauser Allee, Prenzlauer Berg workers in her sculptures, drawings
and sketches.
1 Schnhauser Allee
Map H1/2 prenzlauer Berg
3 Prater
Schnhauser Allee, 3 km (2 miles) Map H1 Kastanienallee 79
long and lined with shops and pubs, (030) 448 56 88 6pm11pm Mon
is the main artery of the district. Sat, noonmidnight Sun
Down the centre of the road runs the The Prater is one of the few
high-level viaduct of U-Bahn line U2. remaining entertainment complexes
A couple of buildings are still in their that were once common in big
pre-1989 state and give a good German cities. It was built in 1837
impression of the old Prenzlauer just outside the original city gates,
Berg, especially between Senefeld- and was first jokingly called Prater
erplatz and Danziger Strae. after its world-famous counterpart
in Vienna. A concert hall was added
2 Kollwitzplatz
Map H2 prenzlauer Berg
in 1857 and by the turn of the century
it had become so popular that the
Once a quiet square, Kollwitzplatz is nickname stuck. Today, you can enjoy
today the noisy heart of the district. beer and food at the restaurant of
All around the green square, locals the same name (see p141).
Prenzlauer Berg 137
Prenzlauer Berg
Schnhauser 0 metres 300
allee
Top 10 Sights 0 yards 300
see pp1369
Restaurants
see p141
ALLEE
ST
AR
S TR .
The Best of the Rest G
AR
ENER
see p140 D
ER
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EN H A G
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USER
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GREIF
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SCHNHA
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4 Kulturbrauerei
Map H1 Schnhauser allee
7 Zionskirche
Map G2 Zionskirchplatz
6 Husemannstrae
Map H1/2 Between Wrther
Prenzlberg or Prenzlauer
berg?
and Danziger Str.
The East German regime undertook Many locals simply say Prenzlberg
when talking about their quarter.
a perfect restoration of this idyllic
But this name is used mainly by West
street for Berlins 750th anniversary Berliners and West Germans who have
celebrations. A stroll through the recently moved here the real name
leafy roads lined with houses from is Prenzlauer Berg, just as it is written.
the Grnderzeit (the years after the The supposed nickname is just a
founding of the German Empire in new-fangled term for a neighbourhood
1871) is one of the loveliest ways to that has become fashionable after the
experience Prenzlauer Berg. Ancient- fall of the Berlin Wall.
looking street lamps and signs,
Prenzlauer Berg 139
Morning
Interior of Synagoge Rykestrae
Set off from the U-Bahn station in
9 Synagoge Rykestrae
Map H2 Rykestr. 53 (030)
Senefelderplatz, one of the lively
spots in Prenzlauer Berg. From
here, explore the old tenement
88 02 83 16 guided tours 26pm blocks and backyards. Now
Thu www.jg-berlin.org/en.html continue west along Fehrbelliner
Built in 1904, this synagogue is one Strae to Zionskirchplatz with its
of the few Jewish places of worship eponymous church. There are
to have survived Kristallnacht on numerous cafs on the square,
9 November 1938, the violent attacks such as Kapelle, where you could
stop for a capuccino. Leave the
on Jewish property by the Nazis. The
square via Zionskirchstrae, then
temples historic interior was built turn left into Kastanienallee. This
from red bricks in the shape of a is one of the most colourful
basilica. Today it is the largest syna- streets in the quarter. At the end
gogue in Berlin (see p59). of the street you could pop into
Prater (see p141). Then turn right
0 Gethsemanekirche
Map H1 Stargarder Str. 77
into Oderberger Strae, one of
the best preserved streets of the
district. Continue east along
(030) 445 77 45 MayOct: 57pm
Sredzkistrae until you reach
WedThu (otherwise by prior Husemannstrae. Have a good
arrangement) look around the old Berlin
Outside this red-brick church, dating streets, you may find something
back to 18913, East German secret interesting to buy.
police beat up peaceful protesters.
It was the starting point for the col- Afternoon
lapse of the East German regime. You could have lunch at one of
the numerous restaurants in
Kollwitzplatz (see p136): Gugelhof
(see p141) and Zander are both
recommended, the former for
German and French cuisine, the
latter for imaginative fish
specialities. After lunch, walk
along Knaackstrae to the
Synagoge Rykestrae. From here
it is a few paces back to the
Wasserturm. Give your feet a rest
at the small green space around
the tower before continuing along
Belforter Strae and Kollwitz-
strae to Schnhauser Allee. You
will find perfect tranquility there
in the Jewish Cemetery.
Gethsemanekirche interior
2 Pfefferberg
Map H2 Schnhauser allee
176 (030) 44 38 30
This alternative cultural centre in
a former brewery hosts concerts, Buildings at Helmholtzplatz
performance art events and festivals.
3 Senefelderplatz 6 Helmholtzplatz
Map H1
Map H2 Apart from the trendy cafs and
The wedge-shaped square is named bars, time seems to have stopped
after Alois Senefelder, a pioneer of here in 1925, with buildings reminis-
modern printing techniques. At its cent of a social housing programme.
centre is a Caf Achteck, housed
in a historic octagonal public urinal.
7 Prenzlauer
Museum
Berg
4 Zeiss-Groplanetarium
prenzlauer allee 80 (030)
Map H2 prenzlauer allee 227228
(030) 902 953 917 9am7pm
421 84 50 9amnoon TueThu, MonFri, 10am6pm SatSun
69:30pm Fri, also pm SatSun This museum charts the history
Closed for renovation until 2016
of the district and its poor working-
Lose yourself amidst uncountable class inhabitants in the 19th century.
stars, planets and galaxies under the
vast silvery dome of the planetarium.
8 Konnopke
Map H1 at the southern exit
5 Mauerpark
Map G1 am Falkplatz
of U-Bahn Schnhauser allee (030)
442 77 65 10am8pm MonFri,
The vast park near the former noon8pm Sat
border, comprising Max Schmeling This legendary Currywurstimbiss was
Hall and Jahn Sports Park, was built opened in 1930 under the U-Bahn
for the Berlin Olympic bid in 2000. steel viaduct. The spicy sausages
Today it hosts sports and music are among the best in the city.
events, and a Sunday flea market.
9 Oderberger
Map G/H1
Strae
0 Thlmannpark
Map H1 prenzlauer allee
Restaurants
1 Oderquelle
Map G1 Oderberger Str. 27
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
(030) 44 00 80 80 6pm1am daily
a bottle of wine (for equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
Basic Berlin and German dishes are under 30 3060 over 60
served up in an alternative, relaxed
setting in this quaint little Kiez
(neighbourhood) place.
5 Prater
Map H1 Kastanienallee 79
Gugelhof
2 Map H2 Knaackstr. 37
(030) 448 56 88 6pmmidnight
MonSat, noonmidnight Sun no
(030) 442 92 29 4pm1am Mon credit cards
Fri, 10am1am SatSun Surprises at the Prater include a
Bill Clinton was once a guest at this beer garden (open noon AprSep),
restaurant, which attracts clients a rustic restaurant in the courtyard
from all over Berlin. The menu and free live concerts.
features an original combination
of German and French cuisine.
6 Sasaya
Map H1 Lychener Str. 50
(030)
44 71 77 21 noon3pm, 611:30pm
ThuMon no credit cards
Head to Sasaya for some of Berlins
best sushi. Reservations needed.
7 Restauration 1900
Map H2 Husemannstr. 1
(030)
8 Pasternak
Map H2 Knaackstr. 22
(030)
33 (030) 44 03 71 11 noon
midnight TueSun 9 Caf November
Map H1 Husemannstr. 15
4 Weinstein
Map H1 Lychener Str. 33
0 Mao Thai
Map H2 Wrther Strae 30
Berlins Southeast
Berlins east and south are remarkably
different in character. Friedrichshain,
Lichtenberg and Hohenschnhausen
in the east are densely built-up, with
their old tenement blocks evoking
stark memories of World War II and
perhaps even more of life during the
bleak days of the East German regime.
Sculpture detail, Green Treptow and idyllic Kpenick
Treptower Park in the far southeast, meanwhile, seem
almost like independent villages and,
together with Groer Mggelsee, are popular day trip
destinations for visitors and Berliners alike.
Berlins southeast
Marzahn
Marzahn
Greifswalder Strasse
Greifswalder Strasse
Prenzlauer
Prenzlauer
Berg
Berg poelchaustrasse
poelchaustrasse
Landsberger allee
Landsberger allee
Volkspark
Volkspark
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
96a
96a
alexander-
alexander- Lichtenberg
Lichtenberg
platz
platz
158
158
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
1/ 5 1/ 5
Mitte
Mitte Frankfurter Tor Tor
Frankfurter Friedrichsfelde
Friedrichsfelde
Frankfurter allee
Frankfurter allee Ost Ost
Ostbahnhof
Ostbahnhof Biesdorf
Biesdorf
1/5 1/5
Warschauer Strasse
Warschauer Strasse Biesdorf
Biesdorf
Ostkreuz
Ostkreuz Friedrichsfelde
Friedrichsfelde
179 179 Biesdorf
Biesdorf
SdSd
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg Tierpark
Tierpark
Betriesbhf.
Betriesbhf.
Treptower parkpark
Treptower Rummelsburg
Rummelsburg
Spr
Spr
Treptow
Treptow
ee
ee
Neuklln
Neuklln Karlshorst
Karlshorst
Planterwald
Planterwald
96 96 Karlshorst
Karlshorst
Sonnenallee
Sonnenallee a a
Hermannstr.
Hermannstr.
Wuhlheide
Wuhlheide
Baumschulenweg
Baumschulenweg
Baumschulenweg
Baumschulenweg Wuhlheide
Wuhlheide
A1 13A1 13 Oberschoneweide
Oberschoneweide
Schneweide
Schneweide
Knigsheide
Knigsheide
Spindlersfeld
Spindlersfeld
BritzBritz Johannisthal 96a
Johannisthal 96
a
0 kilometres
0 kilometres 2 2 A1 A Adlershof
Adlershof
13 113
0 miles
0 miles 1 1
Previous pages The Berliner Dom with the shimmering Sony Center in the background
Berlins Southeast 145
1/ 5 1/ 5
2 Mercedes-Benz Arena
Mhlenstr. 1230/O2-Platz 1
Ticket hotline (030) 20 60 70 88 99
www.mercedes-benz-berlin.de
The citys largest entertainment
arena, seating 17,000 people, hosts
pop concerts and shows of all kinds,
Kaulsdorf
Kaulsdorf
SdSd
Waldesruh
Waldesruh as well as being home to the Alba
Berlin basketball team and the
Eisbren Berlin ice-hockey club.
M ittelheide
M ittelheide
Kpenick
Kpenick
Friedrichshagen
Friedrichshagen
Kpenick
Kpenick Friedrichs-
Friedrichs-
hagen
hagen
Spr Spr
ee ee
Kmmereiheide
Kmmereiheide Groer
Groer
Mggelsee
Mggelsee
The Mercedes-Benz Arena
146 Berlin Area by Area
3 Stasi-Museum
Berlin 6 Groer
Mggelsee
Ruschestr. 103, Haus 1 Treptow-Kpenick district
10am6pm MonFri,
Nicknamed Berlins
noon6pm SatSun Large Bathtub, the
Adm www.
Groer Mggelsee is
stasimuseum.de the citys biggest lake,
The former headquarters Button spy camera, covering 766 ha (1,892
of the feared Stasi, East Stasi-museum acres). Mggelsee is
Germanys secret police, not as popular as Groer
is now a memorial commemorating Wannsee, mainly because it is so far
the victims of the East German from the centre of town. It is known
regime and of Erich Mielke, the min for the beer gardens on its south
ister in charge of the secret police. side, which can be reached on foot
Visitors can see his offices, the can or by boat from Friedrichshagen. You
teen and spying equipment used by can swim in the lake, and around it
the Socialist bigbrother regime. are great walking and cycling paths.
4 Deutsch-Russisches
Museum 7 Treptower
Alt-Treptow
Park
Zwieseler Str. 4 10am6pm TueSun Established in the 19th century for
www.museum-karlshorst.de
the citys working classes, Treptower
World War II ended here on 8 May Park is today best known for its
1945, when Germany signed its Sowjetisches Ehrenmal (Soviet
unconditional surrender. Documents, Memorial). In April 1945, 7,000 Red
uniforms and photographs, displayed Army soldiers who died during the
in the former officers casino, relate liberation of Berlin were buried here.
the story of the war. Beyond the mass graves is a 12m
(39ft) bronze statue of a Russian
5 East Side Gallery
A 1.3km (0.8mile) section
soldier holding a child and a sword
with which he has destroyed the Nazi
of the Berlin Wall was left standing hakenkreuz symbol (see p61).
next to the Spree River. In 1990, 118
artists from around the world painted
colourful images onto the grey con
8 Friedrichshain
MAp H2
crete, making it a unique work of art. This densely builtup area grew
Particularly famous is a mural by rapidly during the industrialization
Russian Dmitri Vrubel showing Erich of the late 19th century. Its industries
Honecker and Leonid Brezhnev kis made it an Allied target during the
sing. Most murals were restored by war and it was one of Berlins most
the original artists in 2009 (see p78). damaged districts. After the fall of
BO
Grosser Mggelsee
AT
and the wooded Groer and Kleiner Mggelsee-
Bunkerberg hillocks (see p61). Terrassen
Morning
9 Tierpark Berlin
Am Tierpark 125 (030) 51 53
Friedrichsfelde, built in early
Neo-Classical style. Then catch
bus No. 296 from the Tierpark
10 Opening times vary, check
U-Bahn station to the Deutsch-
online Adm www.tierpark-berlin. Russisches Museum.
de/tierpark
Located in the Friedrichsfelde Palace Afternoon
park, Europes largest zoological
From the museum, either walk
garden hosts several rare species.
(15 minutes) or take bus No. 296
The Siberian tigers in their rocky southwest down Rheinsteinstrae
outdoor enclosures are worth a visit. to the S Karlshorst tram stop.
The park is known for its successful No. 27 goes direct to Rathaus
elephant breeding programme. The Kpenick. Stop for a typically
1695 palace sits in the middle of this German meal in the Ratskeller
160-ha (400-acre) estate (see p61). (see p149), the town halls cellar
restaurant. Afterwards explore
Kpenick Old Town (see p145).
0 Gedenksttte
Hohenschnhausen The old fishing village is especi-
ally worth a visit. There are many
Genslerstr. 66 English guided tours cafs near Kpenicker Schloss
11am & 2:30pm AprOct, 2:30pm (see p145) where you could stop
NovMar Adm en.stiftung-hsh.de for coffee and cake. Continue
This former secret police prison for your journey by tram No. 60 to
political prisoners was in use until Friedrichshagen, the access point
for the Groer Mggelsee. From
1990. Before 1951, it served as a
here take one of the tourist boats
reception centre for the Red Army. across the lake to Mggelsee-
You can visit the watchtowers and Terrassen, where you can round
cells particularly horrifying are the off the day with an evening meal
windowless submarine cells for at a choice of restaurants.
solitary confinement and torture.
See map on pp1445
148 Berlin Area by Area
5 CSA
Karl-Marx-Allee 96 (030) 29 9 Insel
Alt-Treptow 6 (030) 53 60 80
0 Matrix
Warschauer Platz
18 (030) 29 36 99 90
10pm7am daily
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
5 Burgeramt
Krossener Str. 2122 (030) 66
Mggelspree. If you prefer dry land, A classic day trip destination: once,
you can dine in the beer garden. families used to bring and brew
their own coffee. Today it is a popu
lar outdoor caf and beer garden.
7 Krokodil
Gartenstr. 4648 (030) 65 88
00 94 5pmmidnight MonSat,
11am11pm Sun (brunch 11am3pm)
78 11am11pm daily
Traditional Berlin fare is served in This typical beer garden, belonging
the vaulted cellars where Wilhelm to the neighbouring Berliner Brger
Voigt once famously conned gullible Brau brewery, serves game dishes.
local civil servants (see p145).
3 Klipper 9 Lehmofen
Freiheit 12 (030) 655 70 44
Am Flutgraben 2 (030) 50 34
03 AprOct: from 10am daily; Nov
86 68 Noonlate daily
Mar: from 3pm MonFri & from 10am
This quirky allinone venue has a SatSun
zen beer garden, cinema, tattoo This romantic bistro with an oldtime
parlour and an organic restaurant feel offers creative and cosmopolitan
club hosting raucous indie bands. food and it is a bargain to boot.
See map on pp1445
150 Berlin Area by Area
Top 10 Sights
see pp1513
Restaurants
see p155
The Best of the Rest B eBr leirnl ei nr e r
see p154 F oFr os tr s t
Gatow
Gatow G rGu rnuenweawl da l d
2 2
Gross
Gross
Glienicke
Glienicke
H aHvae vl e l
15
15
A1
A1
Kladow
Kladow
SchlachtenseeK
Schlachtensee
Sacrower
Sacrower
SeeSee Schlactensee
Schlactensee
Pfaueninsel
Pfaueninsel
Sacrow
Sacrow Nikolassee
Nikolassee
Groer
Groer Nikolassee
Nikolassee
Wannsee
Wannsee
F o rFsot r sDt D
p p eplp e l Wannsee
Wannsee
1 1
Volkspark
Volkspark
Glienicke
Glienicke
Wannsee
Wannsee
15
15
A1
A1
Grunewald and Dahlem 151
1 Pfaueninsel
Pfaueninselchaussee (030) 80
eponymous peacocks that run
around here. The Wannsee island,
58 68 30 10amsunset daily Adm which can only be reached by ferry,
ission charge (castle) www.spsg.de is one of the most charming spots
Visitors to Pfaueninsel are for a walk in Berlin (see p60).
immediately enchanted by the
romantic palace ruins and the
2 Dahlem Museums
Lansstr. 8 (Museum of
European Cultures: Arnimallee 25)
10am6pm TueFri, 11am6pm
Halensee
Halensee SatSun Admission charge
www.smb.museum
Grunewald
Grunewald
00
00
Krumme
Krumme
Thielplatz
Thielplatz
Lichterfelde
Lichterfelde West
West
3 Schloss Glienicke
Knigstr. 36 (0331) 969 42 00
Lanke
Lanke AprOct: 10am6pm TueSun;
Zehlendorf
Zehlendorf Nov, Dec & Mar: 10am5pm SatSun
Mexikoplatz
Mexikoplatz Lichterfelde
Lichterfelde Admission charge www.spsg.de
Sundgauer
Sundgauer
Strasse
Strasse One of Berlins most beautiful
1 1
Zehlendorf
Zehlendorf Hohenzollern palaces, this romantic
castle was built by Schinkel in 1824
60 as a summer residence for Prince
Carl of Prussia. The landscaped
garden, designed by Lenn, includes
Schnow
Schnow
0 kilometres
0 kilometres 2 2 pavilions called Groe and Kleine
0 miles
Neugierde (large and small curio-
0 miles 1 1
sity), a teahouse and the Orangerie.
152 Berlin Area by Area
4 Strandbad Wannsee
Wannseebadeweg 25
villa. Built by Paul Baumgarten in
191415 in Neo-Baroque style for
Call for opening times: (030) 803 businessman Ernst Marlier, it hosted
54 50 Admission charge the Nazi elite, among them the infa-
Europes largest inland beach is a mous Adolf Eichmann, on 20 January
picturesque spot on the edge of the 1942. They met to discuss the details
city, attracting up to 40,000 daily of the mass extermination of Jews.
visitors. The renovated swimming An exhibition documents the
baths were built in 192930 as a conference and its consequences,
recreation area for workers (see p61). as well as the history of the villa.
8 Jagdschloss Grunewald
Httenweg 100, Grunewaldsee
A DAy in the SouthweSt
(0331) 969 42 00 AprOct: 10am
Botanischer
6pm TueSun; Nov, Dec & Mar: tours Garten
only, 10am4pm SatSun Alliierten- Luise
Gedenksttte Strandbad museum
Admission charge www.spsg.de
Haus der Wannsee S
BU
This small white 1542 palace is the Wannsee-
Konferenz Mexiko-
Dahlem
Museums
oldest in the city area. It was once a platz
HN
hunting lodge for the Electors. Built BUS
S-BA Botanischer
9 Museumsdorf Dppel
Clauertstr. 11 (030) 802
Start your morning walk through
Berlins southwestern districts
66 71 AprOct: 10am5pm by taking the S-Bahn (line S1)
SatSun Admission charge to Mexikoplatz. Here you can
www.dueppel.de
admire the beautiful villas and
the lovely green square before
This lively open-air museum is a dropping in at Caf Krone (No. 2
reminder that Berlin was once a Argentinische Allee) for a late
series of villages dating back to the breakfast. Then take bus No. 118
13th century. Costumed actors enact southwards to the open-air
the daily life of the Middle Ages, and museum Museumsdorf Dppel.
From there, take bus No. 115
there are bread-baking, pottery and
north to the Alliiertenmuseum.
basket-weaving demonstrations. The Afterwards, a 20-minute walk
gardens are very interesting. through the park opposite leads
right up to the beer garden Luise
(see p155) near the Free University,
where you may like to have lunch.
Afternoon
2 Grunewaldturm
Havelchaussee
Bismarckstr. 3, Am Kleinen
Wannsee
This Neo-Gothic brick tower German playwright Kleist and
was built in 1897 as a memo- his companion Henriette Vogel
rial to Kaiser Wilhelm I. committed suicide by shooting
themselves in 1811; they are
Onkel-Tom-
3 Siedlung
buried here together (near
Grunewaldturm the S-Bahn overpass).
Argentinische Allee
St-Peter-und-Paul-
The Uncle Toms Hut settlement,
developed in 192632 according to
7 Kirche
designs by Bruno Taut and others, Nikolskoer Weg 17 (030) 805 21 00
was intended to create a modern 11am4pm daily
housing estate for workers, unlike This charming stone church, built
the narrow and dark old tenement in 18347 by Stler, resembles
blocks they lived in. Russian-Orthodox churches and
is used for marriage ceremonies.
4 Free University
Habelschwerdter Allee 45
8 Blockhaus Nikolskoe
Library: 9am10pm MonFri Nikolskoer Weg 15 (030) 805
0 Liebermann-Villa
Colomierstr. 3 Summer:
Restaurants
Price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
1 Forsthaus Paulsborn
Httenweg 90 (030) 818 19
Luise
6 Knigin-Luise-Str. 40 (030)
noonmidnight daily
A cosy atmosphere and Swiss
84 18 88 0 10am1am daily hospitality are the order of the day.
One of Berlins nicest beer gardens, Local and exquisite Swiss cooking
on the Free University campus, features strongly on the menu.
See map on pp1501
156 Berlin Area by Area
Top 10 Sights
G. HERMANNALLEE
G. HERMANNALLEE
see pp1579
E
J
LE
LE
F
Restaurants
AL
AL
CH
CH
see p161
RS
RS
PO PO
The Best of the Rest
KI
KI
TS TS KLE KLE
DA DA PEN PEN
see p160 M M
ER ER
HEU HEU
ERA ERA
Volkspark
Volkspark L L E EL L E E
ST ST
R. R. Potsdam
Potsdam
W E G W E G P A P PP A P P
R E I H ERRE I H E R ELA ELA
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Sanssouci R - S CRH- O
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Charlottenhof
Charlottenhof
0 metres
0 metres 600 600
0 yards
0 yards 600 600 H a vHeal v e l
4 km 4 km
Potsdam and Sanssouci 157
1 Neues Palais
Am Neuen Palais (0331) 969
STR.
Jdisc
J her
d i sch er Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff
W E I N M E I ST E R
A R W E I N M E I ST E R
Frie dFrhof
i edh of
NeuerNeuer to construct this magnificent Rococo
G arGten
ar ten palace according to his own designs.
The structure rises proudly above the
N
N
TE
TE
SE
N G SE
UE O S
KINALLEE
KINALLEE
NG
GR
NE G R
PUSC H
AM
AM
R T - ST R.
EN
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S
S
ST
ST
F RI ED R I C H - E B E
N
N
T RA S TSREA S S E
ERTS ERTS
B EH LB EH L BE BE T i e Tf ei er f e r August Nahl; these include the
ER
ER
H H
S e eS e e famous concert room and the kings
IN
IN
STR. STR.
LER T
LER T
S T E NS T E N
RL
RL
FR FR
KUR KUR library. In this wing, the monarch
BE
BE
L S T R .L S T R .
STR
STR
L EIB L EIB
liked to play the flute or to philoso
.
.
S SE S SE
S TR AS TR A
N B E RN B E R
G U TEG U TE NU NU
TH TH
phize with Voltaire. Works by the
ES ES
T R T R1.5 km kings favourite painter, Antoine
R. A S A S 1.5 km
LOT TE
C H A RC H A R
N S T RN. S T R .
LOT TE SE SE Watteau, adorn the palace walls.
POTSDAM
POTSDAM
A M KA
NAL NAL
A M KA
3 Schloss Charlottenhof
Geschwister-Scholl-Str. 34a
(0331) 969 42 28 MayOct:
LAN
LAN
3km 3km
Sanssouci, built in 1829 by Schinkel
E
Potsdam
Potsdam
Hauptbahnhof
Hauptbahnhof
F R I EFDRRI EI C
DHR -I C
L IHS-TL-ISSTTR- S. T R .
for the heir to the throne, Friedrich
Wilhelm IV. Particularly worth seeing
1.5 km
1.5 km
is the tentlike Humboldtsaal.
158 Berlin Area by Area
5 Schloss Cecilienhof
Im Neuen Garten (0331) 969
9 Filmpark Babelsberg
The Filmpark offers visitors a
Morning
0 Nikolaikirche
Am Alten Markt (0331) 270
race you will have magnificent
views over the entire palace
complex. If you are up for it, you
86 02 9am6pm MonSat, could also climb up to Schloss
11:30am5pm Sun Belvedere on top of the hill.
Potsdams most attractive church From Schlosspark walk along
was designed by Schinkel in 1830 in Voltaireweg to Neuer Garten in
an early NeoClassical style. Its giant the northeast of Potsdam, where
dome is particularly striking, and you you can recover over a tasty lunch
at Schloss Cecilienhof (see p161).
can ascend it for a breathtaking view
over the Stadtschloss, the city palace Afternoon
that is now home to the parliament
of Brandenburg. Start the afternoon looking
around Schloss Cecilienhof and
stroll through Neuer Garten. Stop
for a break at Heiliger See, then
head to the centre of Potsdam,
starting with the Hollndisches
Viertel (Dutch quarter) where
you could pop into one of the
numerous cafs. Stroll past the
St Peter-und-Paul Kirche (see
p160), the Franzsische Kirche
(see p160), the Nikolaikirche and
the Altes Rathaus (see p160) to
the Marstall film museum. If you
have the time, extend your tour by
driving to nearby Babelsberg. You
could either visit the Filmpark,
admire Schloss Babelsberg (see
p160) or walk up Telegrafenberg
(see p160). To round off your day, a
delicious evening meal awaits you
at Pino (see p161) in Potsdam.
The Neo-Classical Nikolaikirche
2 Dampfmaschinen
haus Sanssouci 6 Altes Rathaus
Am Alten Markt
Breite Str. 28 (0331) 969 42 25 The old town hall, built in 1753,
MayOct: 10am6pm Sat
is decorated with sculptures and
Sun www.spsg.de Potsdams coat of arms two
This building, resembling a gilded Atlas figures, each carrying
mosque with minarets, is the a globe on its back.
water pumping station for
Sanssouci. The 1842 pump
can be seen inside.
7 Biosphre
Georg-Hermann-Allee 99
(0331) 55 07 40 9am6pm
3 Telegrafenberg
Albert-Einstein-Str.
MonFri, 10am6pm SatSun
Adm www.biosphaere-
4 Schloss Babelsberg
Park Babelsberg Closed for
8 Franzsische Kirche
Am Bassinplatz (0331) 29 12
9 StPeterundPaul
Kirche
Am Bassinplatz (0331) 230 79 90
10am6pm daily (winter: to 5pm)
0 Brandenburger
Luisenplatz
Tor
Restaurants
Price categories Maison Charlotte serves French
For a three-course meal for one with half country fare and fine wines.
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal),
taxes and charges included.
50 610pm TueSat
This Michelin-starred restaurant in
1 Speckers Landhaus
Jgerallee 13 (0331) 280 43 11
Hotel Bayrisches Haus (see p176)
is probably Potsdams best. Light
noon2pm, 611pm TueSat German dishes are exquisitely pre-
The combination of a Prussian pared and presented by Alexander
interior, friendly service and light Dressel. In summer, eat on a terrace
cuisine make Speckers Landhaus overlooking a wildflower meadow.
one of Potsdams best restaurants.
Schloss Cecilienhof
2 Neuer Garten 8 Waage
Am Neuen Markt 12 (0331)
(0331) 370
817 06 74 noonmidnight TueSun
52 33 noon11pm daily
30 6pmmidnight MonSat
Close to Park Sanssouci, Pino serves
a daily changing menu of exquisite
Sicilian fare. The wine list reads like
a Whos Who of Italian vintages.
4 Restaurant Juliette
Jgerstr. 39 (0331) 270 17
91 noon3:30pm, 6pmmidnight
WedMon Closed Jul
A former manor house is the setting Caf Heiders vintage car shuttle
for this French restaurant, one of the
most charming in Potsdam. It serves
top-quality French classics.
9 Caf Heider
Friedrich-Ebert-Str. 29 (0331)
Maison Charlotte
6 Mittelstr. 20 (0331) 280 54
noonmidnight daily no credit
cards
50 noon11pm daily A little bistro serving all sorts of
An olde-worlde wine bar in a red- crpes, such as sweet with jam or
brick Dutch house with outdoor savoury with ham the ideal spot
seating in a pleasant courtyard, for a quick snack.
See map on pp1567
Streetsmart
back door will be opened) but you must ask at the directory
and present your ticket or start for the Kurzstrecke
fare money to the driver. (short distance tariff). Arriving by Air
Trams operate only in the The Velotaxi (bicycle Tegel and Schnefeld
eastern part of the city. rickshaws) is an unusual (030) 60 91 11 50
way to explore the city. berlin-airport.de
Tickets These can be found in the
city centre at several Arriving by rAil
Berlin is divided into three popular visitor locations Berlin Hauptbahnhof
fare zones: A, B and C. from April to October. Map f3 Europaplatz 1
Most destinations are (030) 297 10 55
covered by an AB ticket, By Car bahnhof.de/
available from BVG ticket bahnhof-de/Berlin_
machines. For most vis All of Berlin inside the Hauptbahnhof.html
itors, the best value is an SBahn ring is a green Deutsche Bahn
AB day ticket at 6.90, zone, which means that bahn.com
valid until 3am the follow only vehicles bearing a
Harz-Elbe Express
ing day. A single AB jour special environmental hex-online.de
ney costs 2.70 and is badge are allowed in.
valid for two hours in one Order these in advance Arriving by roAd
direction. A Kurzstrecke through Green Zones, Berlinienbus
(short distance ticket) is which processes 24hour berlinienbus.de
valid for up to three S or rush orders for an extra Eurolines
UBahn stations or six fee. Drivers without this eurolines.com
bus stops, and costs badge face a 40 fine. FlixBus
1.70. Children under 14 To hire a car youll need flixbus.de
years pay a reduced rate; a valid full driving licence,
those under six travel free. passport and credit card; ZOB
iob-berlin.de
Tickets for buses and some agencies will only
S and UBahn trains are accept customers over 21 TrAvelling by
available at stations and years. There are rental UndergroUnd
from bus drivers. Trams agencies at the airports BVG
and some buses have and across central Berlin. bvg.de
onboard ticket machines. Search websites such as
At the station, you must billiger-mietwagen.de TrAvelling by TAXi
validate your ticket in the help find the best deals. City Funk
cityfunk.de
red or yellow machine
before boarding; on the By Bicycle Talixo
bus, find the yellow talixo.de/en
validation machine after Berlin is bicyclefriendly, Taxi Berlin
you board. with an extensive network taxi-berlin.de
of cycle lanes, although Velotaxi
By Taxi most run directly along velotaxi.de
the street. The redand
There are taxi stands all silver bikes of DBs Call a Wrfelfunk
wuerfelfunk.de
over Berlin, and you can Bike scheme are found
also hail a taxi in the across the city. You have TrAvelling by CAr
street. Taxis from compa to preregister and pro billiger-mietwagen.de
nies such as Wrfelfunk, vide credit card details. billiger-mietwagen.de
City Funk, Taxi Berlin and The website is only in Green Zones
Talixo can also be booked German, but the phone umwelt-plakette.de
on the phone or online. hotline usually has some
The starting price is one who can speak TrAvelling by
3.90, and a further English. There are bike biCyCle
1.502 is charged per hire places all over town, Call a Bike
kilometre (0.6 mile). If you and hotels and hostels (0345) 29 29 70
hail a taxi, you can travel often rent cycles to their callabike-interaktiv.de
up to 2 km (1 mile) for 5 guests for 510 per day.
166 Streetsmart
Practical Information
Passports and Visas and the Department No vaccinations are
of Foreign Affairs and mandatory but basic flu
Visitors from outside the Trade in Australia. jabs and routine vaccines
European Economic Area should be kept up-to-date.
(EEA), European Union Travel Insurance Apotheken (chemists or
(EU) and Switzerland pharmacies) are signalled
need a valid passport to Travellers are advised to by a red A sign. After
enter Germany. EEA, EU buy insurance against acci- 8pm, the address of the
and Swiss nationals can dents, illness, theft and nearest all-night pharmacy
use their national identity travel delays or cancella- is posted on the door of
cards instead. Citizens of tions. Germany has a each outlet; alternatively,
Canada, the US, Australia reciprocal health agree- you can call the rztlicher
and New Zealand can visit ment with other EU Bereitschaftsdienst der
Germany for up to 90 days countries, and EU citizens KV Berlin to help locate
without a visa as long as receive emergency treat- the nearest doctors and
their passport is valid for ment under the public open pharmacies. Those
6 months beyond the date healthcare system if they covered by private health
of entry. For longer stays, have with them a valid insurance can also con-
a visa is necessary and European Health Insurance tact Doctors on Call.
needs to be obtained in Card (EHIC). Prescriptions Visitors who suspect
advance. Most other non- have to be paid for upfront. they may have caught
EU nationals need a visa, Non-EU visitors should a sexually transmitted
and should consult the check if their country has disease (STD) can have
German Federal Foreign reciprocal arrangements a quick test done at
Office website or their with Germany. Berliner AIDS-Hilfe.
German embassy for Results are delivered in
details. Schengen visas Emergency Services half an hour. Emergency
are valid for Germany. contraception is available
There are hotlines for on prescription.
Customs and the police, fire brigade,
Immigration emergency dentists, Personal Security
narcotics- and poison-
For EU citizens there are related emergencies. Beware of pickpockets in
no limits on most goods, crowded trains, stations
except weapons, some Health and tourist areas. At
types of food, plants and night, avoid: U-Bahn line
endangered species, taken Berlin has one of the best U9 north of the Zoo; the
in or out of Germany as health services in the world. areas of Lichtenberg,
long as they are for per- Ambulances arrive swiftly Marzahn and Wedding;
sonal use only. Non-EU when called. Those behind the Kaiser-
citizens may import 200 able to reach a hospital Wilhelm-Gedchtnis-
cigarettes and a litre of themselves should use Kirche; and Grlitzer Park
spirits per adult, and can the entrance marked in Kreuzberg. Black or
claim back VAT on EU pur- Notaufnahme (Accident openly homosexual vis-
chases over 25 at the and Emergency). Less itors are advised not to
airport when leaving EU. serious cases can be dealt take the S-Bahn at night
with in one of the many east of Alexanderplatz,
Travel Safety Advice private walk-in clinics. or into the surrounding
Charit Krankenhaus, region of Brandenburg.
Visitors can get up-to-date Berlins main central
travel safety information hospital, has a 24-hour Lost Property
from the Foreign and emergency room. The US
Commonwealth Office and UK Embassies can The Zentrales Fundbro
in the UK, the State provide a list of English (central lost property
Department in the US speaking physicians. office) keeps anything that
Practical Information 167
has been lost and found and pavements are chair symbol are equipped
anywhere in Berlin. If you sloped at junctions for for disabled access and
have left an item on public wheel-chair users. Most have one door with a ramp
transport, enquire at the public buildings, malls that can be lowered down.
Fundbro der BVG. Items and cinemas are fitted Over 160 of the silver
lost on the S-Bahn or the with lifts, ramps and City Toiletten public conve-
national railways are sent extra-wide doors. The niences in central Berlin
to the Fundbro der German Red Cross (DRK) are fully accessible.
Deutschen Bahn. rents out wheelchairs at a Disabled visitors who
nominal daily cost. wish to drive around
Women Travellers S- and U-Bahn trains Berlin and Brandenburg,
are wheelchair accessible, or share a car with driver
Berlin is safe for women but not all stations are with other disabled visi-
but avoid parks and dark equipped with lifts. In the tors, can contact special-
streets at night. On trains U-Bahn, wait at the head ist travel agents BBV
or buses late at night, of the platform, and the Tours or Micky Tours.
take a seat near the driver. driver will put up a ramp. Berlins charitable
In the S-Bahn, speak to association for the blind
Disabled Travellers the station manager to and sight-impaired, the
have a ramp set up. BVG Allgemeiner Blinden- und
Berlin is well-equipped for network maps show all Sehbehindertenverein,
visitors with mobility accessible stations. offers practical advice
issues. Nearly all streets Buses having a wheel- on suitable facilities.
dirEctory
PassPorts and Visas US 9am2pm Fri
Federal Foreign Office US Department of State (030) 194 49
auswaertiges-amt.de/ travel.state.gov
Fundbro der Deutschen
EN/ EmErgEncy sErVicEs Bahn
EmbassiEs Police (0900) 199 05 99
Australia 110
Zentrales Fundbro
Map L6 Wallstrae Fire Brigade Map F6 Platz der
7679 112
germany.embassy.
Luftbrcke 6, 9am2pm
Emergency Dentist Mon, Tue & Fri, 16pm Thu
gov.au (030) 89 00 43 33 (030) 902 773 101
Canada
Emergency Narcotics
Map L3 Leipziger Platz 17 (030) 192 37
disablEd traVEllErs
germany.gc.ca
Emergency Poison Allgemeiner Blinden und
UK Sehbehindertenverein
(030) 192 40
Map k3 Wilhelmstr.
Auerbacherstr. 7
7071 HEaltH (030) 89 58 80
ukingermany.fco.
rztlicher Bereitschafts absv.de
gov.uk dienst der KV Berlin
USA (030) 31 00 31 BBV Tours
Clayallee 170 Berliner AIDSHilfe Bizetstr. 5155
berlin.usembassy.gov (030) 50 01 91 00
Map a5 Kurfrstenstr. 130
traVEl safEty adVicE (030) 885 64 00 bbv-tours.de
Currency and change); many are based are slowly vanishing. Most
Banking around train stations. are cardoperated, but a
Hotels will also change few will take coins. Phone
Germany is one of the 19 money but may charge cards can be bought from
European countries using higher fees. post offices, department
the euro (), which is Travellers cheques can stores and kiosks.
divided into 100 cents. be exchanged at all larger
Paper notes are in deno banks or at branches of Postal Services
minations of 5, 10, 20, the issuers. Most banks
50, 100, 200 and charge a fee. German mail is efficient,
500. Coins are 2, 1, reliable and fast. Offices
50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c, 1c. Internet and of Deutsche Post, the
All large German banks Telephone national mail service,
have city centre branches. usually open 8am6pm
Cash machines or ATMs While connection speeds (till noon on Saturday),
(Geldautomaten) are dotted can lag behind those in with some variation for
throughout the city. A fee some other European smaller outlets. Offices in
list should be posted next countries, Germans are train stations and airports
to the screen; if you with more wired than ever. open on Sunday as well.
draw cash from a bank not Berlin has over 400 wire Buy stamps from the post
affiliated with your home less Internet hotspots office counter or vending
institution, expect to pay a many free in bars, cafs, machines (often outside
handling fee. Stiff fees are department stores, hotels the entrance). A standard
charged by independent and public places such as letter weighing up to 20g
ATMs for withdrawals. the Sony Center. Deutsche or a postcard to anywhere
Inquire about credit card Bahn gives you up to 30 outside Germany costs
ATM cash withdrawal fees minutes of free surf time 0.75. For nonstandard
(which can be high) before per day at over 100 sta postcards and letters
departure. German banks tions across the country. bigger than 235 x 125mm
charge up to 2% per credit Kabel Deutschland, an (9.25 x 4.9 in) the recipient
card withdrawal. internet services com incurs a charge.
Mastercard and VISA pany, does the same thing Public postboxes in
credit and debit cards are at 75 outdoor WiFi hot Berlin generally have two
taken by many cafs, res spots across town. slots: Postleitzahlen
taurants and shops but To use your mobile (postal codes) 10000
not all, so it is a wise to device in Germany, it will 169999 for addresses in
carry some cash. Diners need to be equipped for Brandenburg and Berlin,
Club and American GSM network frequencies and Andere Postleitzahlen
Express are less common. 900 and 1800 MHz. It is (other postal codes) for
Should your card be advisable to sign up for an destinations elsewhere
lost/stolen, it is essential international usage plan to in Germany and abroad.
you inform your bank keep costs down. Europe
immediately. Germany based companies such as Television and Radio
has a free 24hour Ortel also offer prepaid
national Lost Card plans at competitive rates. Public television is built
Hotline which will direct Upon arrival consider on two national networks,
you to your bank. buying a local SIM card or ARD and ZDF. Private
Prepaid currency cards cheap mobile phone with channels such as RTL
(cash passports) are a a German number so you and SAT 1 have stolen a
more secure way of car can take advantage of big chunk of their audi
rying money. They can be local rates. If needed, ask ence. The most authori
preloaded with euros, your home carrier for the tative news broadcasts
fixing exchange rates unlock code to use a dif are ARDs Tagesschau at
before you leave, and ferent SIM card/service. 8pm and the 10:30pm
used like a debit card. There are public phones ZDF evening news Heute.
Youll be able to buy (both enclosed booths Thanks to satellite and
euros at Wechselstuben and open handsets) in the cable you can tune into
(banks and bureaux de town centre, though they global English channels
Practical Information 169
directory
Visitor BEX spsg.de
information en.bex.de
Spreewald Tourism
Berlin Tourist Info City Circle
visitberlin.de/en/plan/ city-circle.de
Lindenstr. 1, Raddusch
(035433) 722 99
on-site/tourist-information Einsteinhaus
Am Waldrand 15-17 spreewald.de
Berlin.de
berlin.de (0331) 27 17 80
Stern- und Kreis-
einsteinsommerhaus.
Finding Berlin Schifffahrt
findingberlin.com de
sternundkreis.de
I Heart Berlin Fat Tire Bike Tours
iheartberlin.de fattirebiketoursberlin. Top Tour
Stil in Berlin com top-tour-sightseeing.de
stilinberlin.de Gedenksttte und
Museum Sachsenhausen WhErE to stay
VisitBerlin
visitberlin.de Map h3 Str. der Airbnb
Nationen 22
Excursions and airbnb.com
(03301) 20 02 00
city tours stiftung-bg.de/gums Berlin30.com
Berlin City Tour Reederei Riedel berlin30.com
berlin-city-tour.de reederei-riedel.de
Berliner Unterwelten Booking.com
Schloss Caputh
berliner-unterwelten. booking.com
Str. der Einheit 2
de (033209) 703 45 HRS
Berlin Walks spsg.de
hrs.de
berlinwalks.com Schloss Rheinsberg
Berolina Berlin Mhlenstr. 1 Trivago
berolina-berlin.com (033931) 72 6 trivago.com
172 Streetsmart
Places to Stay
Price categories venues, serving up
For a standard double room per night (with breakfast cocktails with unexpected
if included), taxes and extra charges. ingredients such as rose
mary, pepper and paprika.
under 100 100200 over 200
Hotel Palace
Luxury Hotels offer views of either the Map N5 Budapester
23 82 80 www.radisson
(030) 25 47 80 www.
near the State Opera,
blu.com/hotel-berlin esplanade.de
just steps away from
Conveniently located on Glitzy and modern, with Unter den Linden,
the banks of the Spree furnishings somewhere Hotel de Rome is
between Alexanderplatz between Bauhaus style sited within the historic
and the Museumsinsel, and functional sobriety. 19thcentury Dresdner
this modern hotel is ideal Service at this Sheraton Bank building. After
for exploring city centre group hotel is excellent World War II, the GDR
sights. The centrepiece of and its firstclass facilities State Bank used the
the hotel is the AquaDom, include a stateoftheart structure. The interior is
the worlds largest free spa and fitness centre, now a vision of postmod
standing cylindrical aqua with a pool, massage ern ideas, while the Italian
rium (see p65). A ticket area, gym, solarium and restaurant, the Opera
to the adjacent Sea Life three saunas. Harrys Court caf (see p93) and
Berlin lets guests take New York Bar, sister to the spa area live up to the
a lift ride through the the historic Harrys in expectations of a hotel
centre of the AquaDom. Paris, is one of central geared towards the inter
The hotels bright rooms Berlins most popular national jetset crowd.
Places to Stay 173
Kempinski Hotel art and a private cinema and breakfast in the 24-7
Bristol Berlin seem at home alongside rooftop bar are included
Map p4 Kurfrsten
exposed cement walls. in the price. Rooms on
damm 27 (030) 88 43 40
An excellent spot for the upper floors have
ities. Among them is a This Westin hotel offers With a design that strikes
luxury spa, a 2-hour luxury accommodation a balance between clas-
health check at a private in a historic spot at the sical and modern, this
partner clinic, and the corner of Friedrichstrae boutique hotel mimics the
Kempinski for Kids pro- and Unter den Linden, city itself. Set in a historic
gramme, which arranges with large, elegant rooms building, the Dormero
babysitting services and and US-style service. The Hotel Berlin Kudamm is
even child-sized robes and lobby and the grand stairs located just a few steps
slippers. Its international are breathtaking. Theres from the shopping street
reputation has attracted a also a caf and a bar. Kurfrstendamm. The Die
host of famous guests, from Quadriga restaurant (see
Fidel Castro to Tina Turner. Designer Hotels p127) serves up creative
French cuisine.
The Mandala Hotel artotel berlin-mitte
Potsdamer Platz Map L6 Wallstr. 7073
Heckers Hotel
Map L2 potsdamer Str. 3
(030) 24 06 20 www.
Map B5 Grolmanstr. 35
houseberlin.com
berlin
to an art-oriented, mostly
This six-storey Bauhaus This modern hotel near European clientele, who
monument started life as Hackescher Markt in the appreciate the simple,
a Jewish-owned depart- hip part of Mitte is beauti- comfortable rooms and
ment store before eventu- fully appointed. It offers large bathrooms, the
ally housing the archives excellent service and free stylish, modern interiors
of the East German Wi-Fi and iPod docking and the great views from
Communist Party. The stations in every room. the breakfast room. Prices
heated rooftop pool, fancy The small spa and snacks are highly competitive.
174 Streetsmart
www.maritim.de
with all the gadgets of a affordable hybrid of hotel
Predominantly styled in business hotel. The Luchs and campsite.
tones of green and blue, restaurant and bar, with
this modern business its understated elegance, 25hours Hotel Bikini
hotel boasts almost 300 adds to the upmarket flair
Map N5 Budapester Str.
music and lifestyle hotel, Moored on the Spree near ringside view of the pri
complete with recording the pretty Oberbaum mate enclosure and
studio. Cuttingedge bridge, this popular boat elephant house at the
facilities in rooms include hotel draws visitors aim citys Zoologischer Garten
a flatscreen TV that ing at the hardpartying (see pp423). The jungle
doubles as a mirror. districts of Kreuzberg and sauna has windows
Friedrichshain. Some 24 overlooking the green
Park Plaza Wallstreet snug berths are spread expanse of the Tiergarten.
Berlin Mitte over two decks. White
Map L6 Wallstr. 2324
sandy beach and bits of Almodvar Hotel
parkplaza.com
692 097 080 www.
(030) 936 28 00 www. Scandinavian design have from loud pop art to
lux-eleven.com
all the amenities classic Modernism.
This stylish, modern including free WiFi. Near Unter den Linden
apartment hotel is a Located on the grounds of and the Hauptbahnhof.
Places to Stay 175
hotel.com
24a (030) 235 17 80
hotels in town are better
Set right in the heart of www.nuernbergereck. than this, and the service
area strewn with books early 20thcentury bridal This small hotel on
and magazines. suite, with pink rose wall Gendarmenmarkt hotel is
paper, carved wooden based in a venerable town
Propeller Island City bedstead and bird motifs. residence. The designer
Lodge appointed rooms exude
Map B5 albrecht
Pension Kreuzberg sophistication and ele
achilles Str. 58 (030) 891 Map F5 Grobeerenstr. gance, although the lack
90 16 www.propeller
64 (030) 251 13 62
of air conditioning could
island.de No credit cards www.pensionkreuzberg. be an issue for some
de No credit cards
guests during the hotter
If youre staying at this Clean and friendly, with summer months.
unusual lodge, you will an excellent atmosphere.
share it with the German The landlady takes great Hotel Johann
audiovisual artist Lars care of her guests and is Map G5 Johanniterstr.
(030) 28 49 00 www.
(030) 312 22 78
is located in a quiet street
riversidehotel.de
www.pensionpeters
a 10minute walk from
Housed in a former GDR berlin.de
the Jdisches Museum,
car dealership, this small Located just off caffilled near an openair swim
hotel combines Baroque Savignyplatz, this friendly ming pool complex.
For a key to hotel price categories see p172
176 Streetsmart
(030) 44 01 40 www.
Wilhelm restaurant (see ing lodge used by Kaiser
myershotel.de
p161) and an indoor pool. Wilhelm II. There is a
A family-run hotel in restaurant (see p155) and
the centre of Prenzlauer Hotel Mggelsee lakeside terrace, as well
Berg ideal for families or Berlin as riding stables nearby.
couples. Located in an Mggelheimer Damm 145
historic part of town, the
(030) 65 88 20 www.
Penta Hotel
service is attentive and hotel-mueggelsee-berlin. Berlin-Kpenick
the atmosphere relaxed. de
Grnauer Str. 1 (030) 65
No credit cards
delightful sun terrace.
(030) 641 94 00 hotel-
only a short distance to is set within a listed 1845 building. The rooms are
the northwest. Come here building and has original basic but well equipped.
to relax and take part in antiques, stucco ceilings An ideal base for explor
all kinds of watersports. and a pretty courtyard ing Prenzlauer Berg.
with a Japanese fishpond.
Schlosshotel im Hotel Residenz
Grunewald Hotel Amano Berlin
Map a6 Brahmsstr. 10
Map G2 auguststr. 43
Map p4 Meinekestr. 9
schlosshotelberlin.com amanogroup.com
hotel-residenz.com
this is just a few minutes and iPod walking tours Here you can live the
from the west of the help make your stay a life of a Prussian officer.
city centre. The facilities great one. This remarkable hotel
are good and service is part of a large complex
is impeccable.There Hotel Mani of 19thcentury Neo
are only 40 rooms. Map G2 Torstr. 136
Gothic buildings old
(030) 53 02 80 80 www.
Kreuzberg apartments,
Medium-Priced amanogroup.de
with sombre rooms and
Hotels A heartbeat from lively elegant bathrooms, are
Rosenthaler Platz, this the perfect setting for
Derag Livinghotel stylish hotel is a favourite trying out the 19th
Groer Kurfrst with fashion models and century lifestyle. The
Map L6 Neue Rostr.
weekendbreakers set hotel has free WiFi and
1112 (030) 24 60 00
to party. Its rooms are docking stations in every
gym, sauna and bike hire. marks and lovely cafs. The hotels stylish inner
courtyard reminiscent
Honigmond Garden Hotel-Pension of Tuscany and bright,
Hotel Kastanienhof tasteful rooms are
Map F2 Invalidenstr.
Map G2 Kastanienallee
an oasis of tranquillity.
122 (030) 28 44 55 77
65 (030) 44 30 50
The international
www.honigmond.de
www.kastanienhof.biz clientele is equally
stylish. The hotel has
Seeping nostalgia with a A charming hotel set in a its own restaurant,
hint of luxury, this hotel turnofthe20thcentury pool and sauna.
For a key to hotel price categories see p172
178 Streetsmart
Schwalbenweg 18 (030)
This hotel is the best
67 90 20 www.leonardo- Wyndham Berlin
choice if your business
hotels.com
Excelsior Hotel requires a longer stay in
Conveniently situated Map N4 Hardenbergstr.
town. Not far from the
near Berlin Brandenburg 14 (030) 315 50 www.
Museumsinsel and the
Airport in Schnefeld, hotel-excelsior.de
Nikolaiviertel quarter, the
this hotel is ideal for Located next to Amerika apartments are equipped
brief business trips or for Haus, the hotel is deco with desks and kitchens.
budget visitors. Service rated in a restrained style. Staff are specially trained
is efficient and friendly. Moderate prices, friendly to cater for the needs of
staff, business services, business travellers.
Arcotel John F a gym and a brasserie
Map K5 Werdescher
make this a top choice. Pullman Berlin
Markt 11 (030) 405 04
Schweizerhof
60 www.arcotelhotels.
Estrel Residence Map N5 Budapester Str.
com/JohnF
Congress Hotel 25 (030) 269 60 www.
clean lines, precious homes all over town. Youll this clean, hospitable
woods and a large, well- normally have your own and well-equipped hostel
designed fitness area. room with one or two plugs visitors into the
beds or an apartment to local scene with a booklet
Sofitel Berlin yourself. The rooms are of local discounts. There
Kurfrstendamm mostly priced moderately, are shared and private
Map p4 augsburger
from 25 per person. rooms on offer, and all
Str. 41 (030) 800 99 90
have lockers, flatscreen
1a (030) 20 00 39 39
Grand Hostel Berlin
Designed by star architect
www.circus-berlin.de
Map F5 Tempelhofer
views over Kudamm. Other many sights. Dorm beds Housed in a 1874 building,
perks include free Wi-Fi, and single, double and this friendly hostel is in a
efficient service and a triple rooms are available central location in trendy
helpful concierge desk. as well as a rooftop apart- Kreuzberg. It offers safe,
ment with good views. clean, spacious dorms
Budget Hotels and There is a restaurant, a and private rooms, some
Hostels garden courtyard, and with their own bathrooms.
bike and scooter rental. There is also a lounge
BaxPax Kreuzberg with computer terminals,
Map H5 Skalitzerstr.
EastSeven Berlin free Wi-Fi, bike rental and
104 (030) 69 51 83 22
Hostel a large buffet for break-
www.baxpax.de
Map H2 Schwedter Str.
fast. The staff are friendly
Much better than a youth 7 (030) 93 62 22 40
and helpful.
hostel yet much cheaper
www.eastseven.de
this refurbished factory is with bars and cafs, this Strae 534 (030) 789
Map F2 Chausseestr.
This hotel, whose name
102 (030) 28 39 09 65
means the factory, is a Httenpalast
www.baxpax.de
guesthouse, youth hostel Map H6 Hobrechtstr. 66
No credit cards
www.gay-hostel.de der the fake indoor trees,
This hotel offers shared Located in the heart of and dine organic in the
accommodation in private Schnebergs gay quarter, streetside caf.
For a key to hotel price categories see p172
180 General Index
General Index
Page numbers in bold Bauhaus-Archiv 53 Brecht-Weigel-
refer to Top 10 highlights. Baumgarten, Paul 152 Gedenksttte 96, 97
Bearpit Karaoke 62 Breitscheidplatz 30
A Bebelplatz 17 Brezhnev, Leonid 78, 146
Aalto, Alvar 114 Becherer, Christian Britzer Schloss and Park 61
Adenauer, Konrad 87 Friedrich 95 Brhan-Museum 53
Admiralbrcke 63 Beer gardens Brcke-Museum 52
Admiralspalast 90 Alexanderplatz 108 Brueghel, Pieter
gyptisches Museum 24, 50 Behnisch, Gnter 12 Dutch Proverbs 40
Air travel 164, 165 Berggruen, Heinz 52 Budget travel 789
Akademie der Knste 12 Berghain 75 Bundeskanzleramt 56
Alexanderplatz 5, 6, 1029 Berlin Marathon 81 Bring, Johann Gottfried
pubs, cafs and beer Berlin Triathlon 81 157, 158
gardens 108 Berlin Wall 13, 18, 47 Buses 1645, 170
restaurants 109 East Side Gallery 78, 146 Busse, August 41
shops and markets 107 Gedenksttte Berliner
Alexandrowka 160 Mauer 78 C
Alliiertenmuseum 152, 153 Haus am Checkpoint C/O Berlin 53
Alt-Tegel 61 Charlie 51, 129, 131 Caf Josty 20
Alte Kommandantur 90 Berliner Antik- und Cafs
Alte Nationalgalerie 24, 27, Flohmarkt 77 Alexanderplatz 108
52 Berliner Brse 121 Charlottenburg and
Alte Schnhauser Strae 98 Berliner Dom 25, 58, 89 Spandau 126
Alter Jdischer Friedhof 97 Berliner Ensemble 97, 98 Canals 61
Altes Mosse-Palais 132 Berliner Fernsehturm 104, Cantian, Gottlieb Christian
Altes Museum 11, 25, 27, 105 55
55 Berliner Filmfestspiele 80 Caravaggio 52
Altes Rathaus (Potsdam) Berliner Motorradtage 81 Victorious Eros 40
159, 160 Berliner Neujahrslauf 81 Carillon 115, 116
Ambulances 166 Berliner Rathaus 54, 103, Castorf, Frank 67
American Embassy 13 105 Cathedrals see Churches
Anhalter Bahnhof 130, 131 Berlinische Galerie 53 and cathedrals
Antik- und Flohmarkt Berndt, Kurt 95 Cemeteries
Strae des 17. Juni 76 Beuys, Joseph 53, 114 Alter Jdischer Friedhof
Appelt, Dieter 15 Bicycles 165, 170 97
AquaDom 65, 106 Bikini Berlin 30 Dorotheenstdtischer
Architecture Biosphre 160 Friedhof 96
Kulturforum 41 The Birth of Christ Friedhfe Hallesches 132
Nazi 88 (Schongauer) 40 Jewish Cemetery 138
Potsdamer Platz Bismarck, Otto von 30 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
architects 23 Blockhaus Nikolskoe 154 114, 146
Art galleries see Museums Boats 61, 116, 170 Chamleon-Variet 66
and galleries Bode-Museum 24, 79 Charit 98
Asisis Wall Panorama 132 Bornemann, Fritz 66 Charlotte, Princess 154
Auguststrae 98 Boros Art Collection 62, 98 Charlottenburg and
Botanischer Garten 6061, Spandau 5, 11827
B 153 cafs and coffee shops
Badeschiff 62 Botticelli, Sandro 126
Banks 168, 169 Madonna with Child and restaurants 127
Bar jeder Vernunft 67 Singing Angels 40 shops and markets 125
Bars 723 Boulevard der Stars 20 Checkpoint Charlie 51, 129,
Kreuzberg, Schneberg Boumann, Johann 160 131
and Neuklln 134 Boumann, Philipp Daniel 54 Childrens activities 645
Scheunenviertel 100 Brandenburger Tor 5, 6, Chipperfield, David 24, 27
Southeast Berlin 148 10, 1213, 54, 85, 160 Chodowiecki, Daniel
Unter den Linden 92 Brandt, Willy 47 The Great Elector Receiving
Bauhaus 46 Brecht, Bertolt 48, 96, 97, 98 Huguenot Refugees 37
General Index 181
Stauffenberg, Count von 115 Tiergarten and Federal Visas 166, 167
Stilwerk 77 District (cont.) Visitor information 170, 171
Stiphout, Maike van 23 restaurants 117 Vogel, Henriette 154
Stirling, James 41 see also Groer Tiergarten Voigt, Wilhelm 145
Strach, Heinrich 55 Tierpark Berlin 61, 147 Volksbhne 67
Strandbad Wannsee 152, Time zone 169 Volkspark Friedrichshain 5,
153 Titian 61
Straumer, Heinrich 122 Venus and the Organ Vrancx, Sebastian
Stler, Friedrich August 41, Player 40 Soldiers Plundering a
96 Toms Bar 689 House 18
Alte Nationalgalerie 52 Topographie des Terrors Vrubel, Dmitri 146
Museum Berggruen 52 130, 131
Orangerie 158 Tourist information 170, 171 W
St Matthuskirche 39 Town Hall see Berliner Waesemann, Hermann
St-Peter-und-Paul- Rathaus Friedrich 54, 103
Kirche 154, 160 Trains 164, 165 Walking tours 79, 170
Swimming Trams 1645 Wallot, Paul 14
Badeschiff 62 Travel 1645 Wannsee 61, 152, 153
lakes and rivers 61 Travel insurance 166 Wasserturm 1389
Synagogues 589 Travel safety advice 166 Watergate 75
Neue Synagoge 59, 95, Treptower Park 61, 146 Watteau, Antoine 36, 157
97 Tresor Club 74 The French Comedy 40
Synagoge Rykestrae 59, Truman, Harry 158 Weather 169
139 Tucholskystrae 98 Weie Kreuze Memorial 15
Trkenmarkt am Weigel, Helene 48, 96
T Maybachufer 77 Weimar Republic 22
Taut, Bruno 154 Turkish Berlin 130 Weinhaus Huth 20
Taxis 165 Wiene, Robert 22
Technische Universitt 124 U Wilford, Michael 88
Tegeler See 61 Underground railway Wilhelm I, Kaiser 32, 33,
Telegrafenberg 159, 160 (U-Bahn) 164, 165 37, 154
Telephones 168 UNESCO 24, 27, 86, 158, 170 Wilhelm II, Kaiser 14, 26, 37
Tempelhofer Park 78, 81, Unger, Georg Christian 160 Wilhelmstrae 88
132 Ungers, O M 27, 57 Wilms, Ursula 130
Teufelsberg 60, 154 Universities Winking, Bernhard 13
Teufelssee 61 Free University 154 Winterfeldtmarkt 77
Thlmann, Ernst 140 Humboldt-Universitt 16 Wisniewski, Edgar 41, 57
Thlmannpark 140 Technische Universitt WMF-Haus 90
Theatre 667 124 Whr, Wolfram 23
Bar jeder Vernunft 67 Universitt der Knste 124 Women travellers 167
Chamleon-Variet 66 Unter den Linden 5, 6, 10, World War II 32, 46, 114,
Deutsches Theater 67, 1619, 8493 146
98 pubs and bars 92
Grips-Theater 64 restaurants 93 Z
Maxim-Gorki-Theatre 90 shops 91 Zeiss-Groplanetarium 64,
Puppentheatermuseum Unterwelten Museum 62 140
65 Zeughaus Unter den
Renaissance Theater 124 V Linden 19, 55, 89
Staatsoper Unter den Vaccinations 166 Zionskirche 138, 139
Linden 16, 66 Venus and the Organ Player Zionskirchplatz 139
Theater des Westens 67, (Titian) 40 Zitadelle Spandau 119, 123
121, 124 Vermeer, Johannes Zoos
Volksbhne 67 The Glass of Wine 40, 52 Tierpark Berlin 61, 147
Theme parks Veterinary Anatomical Zoologischer Garten 7,
Filmpark Babelsberg 65 Theatre 63 11, 423, 64, 119
LEGOLAND Discovery
Victorious Eros (Caravaggio)
Centre 21, 65 40
Tiergarten and Federal Viktoriapark 61, 131
District 11217 Villa von der Heydt 115
hidden treasures 116 Virchow, Rudolf 98
188 Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments
Author b.v. 63bc; FineArt 40br; Hemis 57cr, 125br, 138tl;
Historian Jrgen Scheunemann has published Peter Horree 32br, 59tl; image-BROKER 34bl, 36crb,
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several documentary and photographic
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Acknowledgments 189