May 2017 | 4.

35 Style & Substance

Classic
Paul Newman photographed
by David Sutton, 1968

summer
style
Tips and tricks for
looking slick from
Paul Newman,
JFK, Miles Davis,
Steve McQueen
and Muhammad Ali
+
Why are all our style
heroes six feet under?
By Mick Brown
Inside
How can I be a What footballers
hipster when I dont arent telling us
have any hips? By Ross Raisin
By Will Self
TV cops: an
What to wear in 2017 investigation
By Jeremy Langmead By Dan Davies

Space rock:
the ultimate
status symbol
By George Pendle

Hot in the City:

the Square
Mileonaplate
By Rachel Fellows
 COVERS
0 17 A n
2

Newsstand
Cover photograph:
PaulNewman, 1968

Subscribers
Cover photograph:
PaulNewman, 1963

ICONS OF STYLE
P102
Paul Newman leads
ahost of heroes
JFK, Steve McQueen,
Robert Redford and
many more whose
innate stylishness
hasnever faded
102

CONTENTS

SUBSCRIBE FASHION
ANY COLOUR NOT BUSINESS
YOU WANT AS USUAL
If you want a limited-
P88 P134
edition version of
as long as its black For an evershifting
Esquirewith a unique
cover delivered to your or white. Midsummer world, here are the
door, call +44 844 322 monochrome nds simple, impeccably
1762 andquote afan in godfather of cut suits you can
reference 1EQ11168 grime, Wiley count on

esquire.co.uk FOOT NOTES A FINE TOWN

P128 P140
Esquire selects the Aiden Gillen
twitter.com/esquireuk
nest of the seasons (TheWire, Game
head-turning shoes, ofThrones) strolls
David Sutton | Ash Reynolds

facebook.com/ from woven suede through old Soho

esquiremagazine
penny loafers to haunts in vintage-
metallic slippers inspired tailoring
88
@ukesquire

15
CONTENTS CONTRIBUTORS

Dan
Davies
REGULARS To preview new comedy
Mindhorn, Davies spent
weeks watching vintage
cop shows. If La La Land
WILL SELF isa love letter to the
P31 goldenage of Hollywood,
This month, the award-winning he says, Mindhorn is
writer lauds hips, but laments his acharge sheet of
own lifelong lack thereof crimescommitted
byThe Sweeney,
The Professionals and
Bergerac. Davies is author
OBJECT OF DESIRE of the award-winning In
P154
Plain Sight: The Life and
A classic cricket jumper from Lies of Jimmy Savile and
Kent& Curwen, hit for six by online editor-in-chief at
David Beckham Christies auction house.

STYLE
P35
Luxurious leather luggage Made
in Italy; Jeremy Langmead on
provocative 2017 designs; Russell
55
Norman assembles his denitive
salade nioise; a total trimming
and cleansing post-winter regime;
the ve best cameras to pack for
travel and holidays; Budapest,
Naples, Dubrovnik three
hotspots and how to hit them in
CULTURE
P73
Stephen Shore retro photographic
compendium; Feist brings us
Pleasure; sibling rivalry taken to
comedic high; BNQT are this
years supergroup; the photo
50
style; o-roading the new Land
Rover Discovery SD4 HSE in
Utah; Audemars Piguets Royal
Oak Perpetual Calendar now
comes in black ceramic; how to
Trump a trip to Washington DC;
10-point summer manifesto;
lighter leather for hotter weather;
the woody notes ruling summer;
shopping news and more
Russell
Norman
Once the clocks spring
forward, I think of lighter
dishes and the wonderful,
vibrant ingredients of the
warmer seasons, explains
our food columnist, who is
also the boss of the Polpo
restaurant empire. My
nioise salad is a cracking
summer staple, one I enjoy
on a sunny day in the
garden, with a cold glass of
Provence ros. Can you use
tinned tuna? Yes you can!
(Geddit?) Norman is
working on his next book,
My Venetian Kitchen.
Ash
Reynolds
It was a pleasure to
photograph Wiley, the
Australian photographer
says of his shoot with the
grime star. The idea
started from old Avedon
portraits shot on a white
background, the perfect
way to bring out Wileys
character. Hes a true gent
Will Bunce | Stephen Shore | Antosh Sergiew

book Generation Wealth mines

and the set was super
the rich seam of conspicuous
relaxed me, Wiley and
consumption; the frenzy over
the Pet Shop Boys on the
Killers of the Flower Moon; Chris radio. Reynolds has shot
Burden documentary; Brad Pitts for the Wall Street Journal,
War Machine; Californias design Christian Louboutin and
for life; Gorillaz back in the mix Thom Browne.
73

18
CONTENTS CONTRIBUTORS

Jeremy
Langmead
FEATURES The fact fashion brings
together big business and
the truly bonkers and
generates billions is one
NOT SO SQUARE ANY MORE ofthe many reasons
P80 Iloveit, says our regular
Suddenly, going out for dinner style columnist, who runs
(orlunch or breakfast) in Londons us through the wackier
City really is the business trends hitting shops now.
There are waiting lists for
cropped bomber jackets
with shoulders so huge
ITS TRUTH TIME they have to be parked in
P96 hangars. Good times.
Mindhorn is the latest in a lengthy Langmead is Mr Porter
lineup of maverick British TV cops brand and content director
its a genre with a lot of previous and editor of Times Luxx.

CLASSIC SUMMER STYLE Ross

P102 Raisin
An Esquire seasonal guide to how
One of the unknowns
to dress well for work, on holiday,
ofwriting a novel is you
at the beach, in the gym and
have no idea or control
relaxing after hours over how topical it might
122
end up being, explains
Raisin of his latest work
DEAD COOL of fiction, A Natural.
P114 When I began A Natural
Mick Brown asks why all the most in 2011, homosexuality
enduring icons of male style have in football was not
no contemporary equals
partof the media
conversation. Nor really
was the discussion of
the darkness behind the
doors of some football
clubs. They are certainly
topics now, though.

Seth
Armstrong

96 We asked the LA-based

illustrator to create an
image to accompany Ross
Raisins football expos.
Iam somewhat ignorant
when it comes to soccer,
er, sorry, football, having
grown up in California,
hesays. I am familiar
80 withthe machismo and
bullying in locker rooms,
though certainly not to
BEHIND THE BANTER SPACE TO LET the extent that this article
P118 P122 depicts. This is nuts.
Ross Raisin looks behind Mining minerals found in Armstrong has also
back-page headlines and nds asteroids is causing a new gold worked for Christies,
Cristiano Rinaldi

football failing to face its demons rush among tech billionaires MrPorter and Jay Z.

20
 Subscribe to
Alex Bilmes
editor-in-chief

deputy editor creative director fashion director

Johnny Davis Nick Millington Catherine Hayward

Six issues for entertainment director/

associate editor
Tom Macklin
photo director/
managing editor
Henny Manley
style
director
Teo van den Broeke

9.99 content director

features editor
Miranda Collinge

deputy style editor

Will Hersey Charlie Teasdale

chief copy editor copy editor

Brendan Fitzgerald Josh Bolton

art director senior designer designer

Peter Ainsworth Lisa Barlow Lauren Jones

assistant commissioning editor / fashion

assistant to the editor-in-chief assistant
Rachel Fellows Emie James-Crook

editors-at-large
Giles Coren Andrew OHagan Will Self

food editor music editor us correspondent

Tom Parker Bowles Alexis Petridis Sanjiv Bhattacharya

esquire.co.uk
digital editor deputy digital editor
Sam Parker Nick Pope

digital writer junior digital writer social media editor

Olivia Ovenden Finlay Renwick Laura Raphael

contributing editors
tim adams / ben anderson / tom barber / richard benson / kevin braddock
mick brown / colin crummy / dan davies / martin deeson / geoff dyer
mark ellen / ekow eshun / andrew harrison / mark hix / michael holden
harry jameson / richard t kelly / john lanchester / jeremy langmead
tim lewis / kevin maher / ben mitchell / philip norman
russell norman / max olesker / michael smith / stephen smith
will storr / robin swithinbank / david thomson / paul wilson

+ RECEIVE contributing photographers

gregoire alexandre / andy barter / michael bodiam / tomo brejc
chris brooks / dan burn-forti / alan clarke / tom craig / carlos de spinola
matthew donaldson / simon emmett / chris floyd / neil gavin
jon gorrigan / rick guest / matt irwin / nadav kander / luke kirwan
The Big Black Book, worth 6 jason lowe / dan mcalister / benedict morgan / josh olins / terry oneill
martinparr / terry richardson / martinschoeller / philip sinden
peggy sirota / david slijper / david titlow / yu tsai / benni valsson
tom van schelven / ellen von unwerth / greg williams

contributing fashion editors

To subscribe, visit: olie arnold / allan kennedy / gareth scourfield

esquire.co.uk/may
esquire international editions
or call 0844 322 1762 Editors: Hristo Zapryanov Bulgaria Liang Zhaohui China Jiri Roth Czech Republic Kosta N Tsitsas Greece
KwongLung Kit Hong Kong Dwi Sutarjantono Indonesia Yurij Serebryansky Kazakhstan Kiju Shin Korea Ernesto
and quote offercode1EQ11181 Calderon Escobedo Latin America Jason Tan Malaysia Jeremy Lawrence Middle East ArnoKantelberg Netherlands
Kristine Fonacier Philippines Maciej Gajewski Poland Andrei Theodor Iovu Romania Sergey Minaev Russia Milan
Nikolic Serbia Zul Andra Singapore Andrs Rodriguez Spain Steve Chen Taiwan Jatuwat Srichan Thailand Togan
Noyan Turkey Alex Bilmes United Kingdom Jay Fielden United States Nguyen Thanh Nhan Vietnam
Terms and conditions: Offer valid for UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. *After the first six issues, your subscription will continue at
Jeannette Chang Senior vice-president/International publishing director; KimSt Clair Bodden Senior vice-president/
14.95 every six months by Direct Debit. Free gift is limited to the first 50 orders. If this gift becomes unavailable you will be offered an Editorial director; Chloe OBrienDeputy brands director; Kristen Ingersoll Fashion/entertainment director;
alternative gift of a similar value. All orders will be acknowledged and you will be advised of commencement issue within 14 days. This offer LuisVeronese Senior international editions editor
cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes 30 May 2017. The minimum subscription term is six issues.
ESQUIRE is published 10times a year and the normal cost of annual subscription in print is 43.50 based on a basic cover price of 4.35.
For UK subscription enquiries, please telephone +44 844 848 5203. For overseas subscription prices and enquiries, please telephone
+441858 438 838, or visit hearstmagazines.co.uk. For our data policy, please visit hearst.co.uk/dp. Lines are open weekdays 8am9.30pm,
Saturdays 8am4pm. BT landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost no more than 5p per minute; calls made from mobiles usually cost more.
 Subscribe to
Jacqui Cave
group publishing director

pa to the group publishing director

Rachel Macbeth

brand director fashion director/brand director

Jonny Berry Sindy Walker

PRINT + DIGITAL creative solutions

art director
creative solutions
associate art director
creative solutions
art editor
Tanja Rusi Leo Goddard Alex Mertekis
Six issues for project
manager
project
manager

14.99
Camilla Weston Romy van den Broeke

group customer acting marketing senior customer

marketing manager manager marketing executive
Natasha Chamberlin Vicky Chandler Tilly Michell

head of marketing promotions head of newstrade marketing

Charlotte Cunliffe Jennifer Smith

head of digital head of consumer

marketing sales & marketing
Seema Kumari Matthew Blaize-Smith

production director production manager

John Hughes Joanne Keogh

advertisement production controller pr manager

Paul Taylor Ben Bolton

italian & swiss agent (+39 02 66 19 3142)

Alessandro Caracciolo

regional business developmentmanager

Danielle Sewell

James Wildman
chief executive officer

managing director, brands Michael Rowley

chief financial officer Claire Blunt
chief revenue officer Duncan Chater
circulation & brand marketing director Reid Holland
chief digital officer Paul Cassar
communications director Lisa Quinn
hr director Surinder Simmons

+ RECEIVE
hearst magazines international
senior vice-president, cfo and general manager
Simon Horne

The Big Black Book, worth 6 hearst magazines uk,

72 broadwick street, london w1f 9ep
editorial +44 20 3535 9150 / advertising +44 20 7439 5995. visit esquire.co.uk

To subscribe, visit: Access Hearst Magazines UK website at hearst.co.uk A publication of Hearst Magazines UK.
Issue: May 2017 | Published: 25 April 2017 | ESQUIRE, ISSN 0960-5150 is published 10 times per year byHearst Magazines UK.
By permission of Hearst Communication Inc. c/o USACAN Media Corp at 123A Distribution Way, Building H-1, Suite 104,
Plattsburgh, NY 12901. Periodicals postage paid at Plattsburgh, NY. POSTMASTER: send address changes to ESQUIRE

esquire.co.uk/m17
or call 0844 322 1762
and quote offercode1EQ11194
Terms and conditions: Offer valid for UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. *After the first six issues, your bundle subscription will continue
at the rate of 19.95 every six months by Direct Debit. Free gift is limited to the first 50orders. If this gift becomes unavailable you will be
offered an alternative gift of a similar value. All orders will be acknowledged and you will be advised of commencement issue within 14 days.
This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes 30 May 2017. The minimum subscription term is six
issues. ESQUIRE is published 10 times a year. For UK subscription enquiries, please telephone +44 844 848 5203. For overseas subscription
prices and enquiries, please telephone +44 1858 438 838, or visit hearstmagazines.co.uk. Forour data policy, please visit hearst.co.uk/dp.
Lines are open weekdays 8am9.30pm, Saturdays 8am4pm. BT landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost no more than 7p per minute plus
your phone companys access charge; calls made from mobiles usually cost more.
c/oExpress Mag, PObox 2769, Plattsburgh, NY 12901-0239. Magazine printed by Wyndham Roche, Victoria Business Park,
Roche, St Austell, PL26 8LX. Cover printed by The Westdale Press Limited, 70 Portmanmoor Industrial Estate, East Moors,
Cardi CF24 5HB. Conditions of sale and supply: ESQUIRE shall not, without the written consent of the publishers rst given,
be lent, resold, hired out or otherwise disposed ofby way of trade except at the full retailprice of4.35 and shall not be lent, hired
out, or otherwise disposed of in amutilated condition or in any unauthorised cover, by way of trade, oraxed to or as part of any
publication or advertising, literary or pictorial matter whatsoever. MSS and illustrations are accepted on the understanding that
noliability is incurred for safe custody, butESQUIRE cannot consider unsolicited material for publication. Allcharacters in any
ctional story are purely imaginary and no reference or allusion is intended to apply to any living person orpersons. ESQUIRE
is fully protected by copyright and nothing may be printed wholly or in part without permission. ESQUIRE is a member of the
Independent Press Standards Organisation. We abide by the Editors Code of Practice and are committed to upholding the
highest standards of journalism. If you think we have not met those standards and wish to make acomplaint please contact
complaints@hearst.co.uk or visit hearst.co.uk/hearst-magazines-uk-complaints-procedure. If we are unable to resolve your
complaint, or if you would like more information about IPSO or the Editors Code, contact IPSO at ipso.co.uk. Subscriptions and
back issues: the standard subscription price (BAR) for 10 issues of ESQUIRE is 43.50, based on the basic cover price of 4.35.
For new and renewal orders, ring 0844 322 1762* or visit hearstmagazines.co.uk. Lines are open weekdays 8am9.30pm;
Saturdays, 8am4pm | For existing subscription enquiries, change of address and back-issue orders for ESQUIRE ring 0844 848
5203*, email hearstmagazinesuk@subscription.co.uk or write to ESQUIRE, Hearst Magazines UK, Tower House, Sovereign
Park, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, LeicestershireLE16 9EF. Please quote your subscription number in all
correspondence | We regret that free gifts, supplements, booksand other items included with the magazine when itis sold in the
UK are not available with copies of the magazine purchased outside the UK | *BT landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost no
more than 7p per minute; calls from mobiles and other networks usually cost more.
May 2017
EDITORS
LETTER
Im hesitant to begin this months issue with a disclaimer
but I feel its only fair for me to point out that contrary, perhaps,
to appearances (like the cover, for example), this magazine cant
make you look like Paul Newman. Im sorry about that, but there it
is. To be clear, we cant make you look like Steve McQueen, either,
or any of those mid-20th-century superstars who, 50 years on, and
despite being how best to put this? dead, remain the exem-
plars of stylish masculinity: handsome, virile, charismatic, and
impeccably turned out. In a word: cool.
This magazine cant make you cool. I really cant stress
thatenough.
What we can do, inspired by those famously dashing (if sadly
deceased) fellows named above, and others equally celebrated
(and equally dead), is steer you in the direction of clothes and
accessories looks, as fashion people will insist on calling them
that will make you as stylish and attractive as you possibly can
be, given your limitations, which are, lets face it, no doubt many,
starting with the fact that you look nothing like Paul Newman. No,
nor Steve McQueen neither.
Beginning on page 102, we oer a multitude of items currently
available for purchase, based closely on the classics as worn by
Newman, McQueen, and the rest in their prime sort ofmid-Six-
ties, on the whole that will see you through the summer looking,
at the very least, halfway decent, or as close to it
as you can get without looking remotely like, to
pick a name at random, Paul Newman.
Of course, if Im to be brutally honest, buy-
ing the clothes and shoes on the pages in our
summer style special will not only not make you
physically resemble Paul Newman, they wont
make you cool like Paul Newman, either. I mean,
even if you purchased at auction and then wore
(maybe to a barbecue?) the exact same blazer and
shirt and tie and trousers that Paul Newman is
wearing on page 104, and carried the same bag,
purchased from a niche Hollywood memorabilia
specialist, with the same scarf tied just soaround
one of its handles, you still wouldnt be as cool
as Paul Newman. Paul Newman wasnt cool
because of the clothes he wore, his clothes were Sunglasses and jawline,
cool because Paul Newman wore them. Newmansown
Paul Newman wasnt cool because of the clothes he wore,
his clothes were cool because Paul Newman wore them
28
Still, all that aside, Paul Newman was a snappy dresser, and so
was Steve McQueen, and you would benet from learning some
of the lessons they taught the rest of us in how to go about what
to wear, and how to wear it. In the case of this issue: whatto wear
in the summer, whether youre on your way to work, to dinner, to
the beach, to the gym, or just hanging in the sunshine, maybe on
a shing boat, with a beer and a fag on, and your shirt open, collar
up, professional photographer on board to capture the moment,
you know how you do.
The good news is, Paul Newmans looks rather than his
looks are not that hard to achieve. Those mid-century dudes
stuck to a pretty simple and specic formula, and its one that still
works today. Its about lightweight, breathable tailoring, tted but
not too tight, pale shirts, white T-shirts, chinos, classic jeans, plain
trainers or loafers. Elegant, attering, classic. Sounds easy, looks
easy, is easy. So, no excuses this summer for the usual horrors:
board shorts, slogan T-shirts and, my personal red ag, ip-ops
in town. We might not be able to make you look like Paul Newman,
but we can try to prevent you dressing like Joey Essex.
(Is Joey Essex still a thing? Is he dead? No idea. But Im pretty
sure hes not cool.)
Paul Newman died in 2008, Steve McQueen in 1980. Its not
true to say that every one of our most potent male style icons has
ascended to the great gents outtter in the sky. Paging through
this issue I note, somewhat morbidly, that Sean Connery is still
with us, as are Robert Redford, Warren Beatty, Clint Eastwood,
Jean-Paul Belmondo, though none is exactly in his rst ush. The
rest? Brown bread, the lot. On page 114, Mick Brown considers, in
typically elegant fashion (or style, one of the two), why it is, when
women seem to mint new style heroines every other week, that us
chaps appear to have got stuck somewhere in the desert outside
Vegas, circa 1970.
Not that there arent any well-dressed men about, but very
few of them are famous. Which is why, when we want to do one
of these get-the-look features, we end up with a dead bloke on the
cover. Dead, but cool. Dead cool. (One day itll be
Joey Essex. Illbe dead by then.)
Last word, for now, on clothes, and how to
wear them, to my late colleague AA Gill, writing
in this magazine a few years ago:
There are only two words you need to
remember. They are nonchalance and elan. The
problem is they are usually mutually exclusive,
but you need to dress with elan and wear your
clothes with nonchalance. How you wearis more
important than what you wear. The worst-dressed
man in any room is the one who wont order spa-
ghetti because hes got aHerms tieon.
Alex Bilmes,
Editor-in-Chief
Paul Slade/Paris Match via Getty
 Will Self

SELF
EXAMINATION
Each month, Will Self evaluates a signicant part of our anatomy. Here, he
deduces that without dened, functioning hips a man can never be, er, hip

The slang term hip derives, or so Ive believed for so long

it counts as factual in the lter-bubble of my muddled old bonce,
from the way in which opium smokers lie on their sides in order
to suck down their vegetative hit. You can see the obviousness of
the association: the opiate drugs heroin, morphine, synthet-
ics such as OxyContin and, of course, opium itself all create
asense of emotional detachment in their habitus. The hip of
the Forties beatniks and the cool of the Fifties African-Amer-
icans were both supine, yet subversive, postures in the face of
authority. Most parts of the human body are connected with
some aspect or other of the human psyche either through
folklore, religion, or the fashionable hoodoo of neuroscience
but no one, whether seer or surgeon, is adequately equipped to
unpick the demented cats cradle which binds my hipness to
my hiplessness.
Lets try and get at the matter obliquely. There can be few
more chilling words for the father of a burgeoning son to hear
than these: Dad, Ive got no hips. And yet Ive had to suffer
them not once but twice. Of my three beautiful sons, two are
indeed, gulp, hipless. The guilt I feel at having passed on this
dreadful handicap to 50 per cent of my ospring (we need not
concern ourselves with my daughters hips, which are perfectly
salient) can only be likened to that of the Tsarina Alexandra, who
copulated on a branch of a royal family tree hung with bloody
haemophiliac fruit. Would that I had a Rasputin to hand, able
to hypnotise my boys into hipness, just as the original could stop
the little tsarevich from bleeding-out on the imperial carpets. But either wandering around with his jeans half way down his arse, or
really, since the hip my sons lack is a very bony and physical else giving a little jump to hoik them up, as the female of the spe-
one, I hardly think mental manipulations will summon it. cies does to pull up her tights. Yes, yes, Im well aware that trou-
People often stop me in the street and ask: How do you live sers of recent vintage, preposterously, are designed with inbuilt
without any hips? Why? Because they cannot ignore my hand- buttock-revealing sag capability, but I have no desire to ape the
icap, so disturbing is the sight of a man well into middle age, benighted African-American inmates of the United States

People often stop me in the street and ask: How do you live without any hips?
Illustrations by Joe McKendry

They cannot ignore my handicap, so disturbing is the sight of a man either with
his jeans halfway down his arse, or else giving a little jump to hoik them up

31
Will Self
penitential gulag, and still cleave to the same original Levis 501s
as ever. But it doesnt matter whether I aect high-waisted trou-
sers with pleats, or at-fronted ones (for that becoming, pot-bel-
lied silhouette so typical of the ageing rou), the results are the
same: I may well cinch my strides with the thickest of leather
corsets, or suspend them from the most elastic of braces, yet
As soon as I realised my sons shared my aiction, I told them both: you will
always be pariahs, shunned by hipped men and shamed by still hipper women.
The only known therapy for hiplessness, my little stickmen, is to cultivate hipness
32
Ican never keep their waistband around my waist. Such is the
comme il faut of the hipless man.
My own father, bless him, was at least utterly unhip as well
as hipless. I can never remember him wearing any trousers save
voluminous grey annel bags, which hed lash to his ill-dened
waist with a belt he didnt even trouble to pass through their
loops. No leaper he I never, ever saw him with both feet o
the ground at the same time he would, instead, quite shame-
lessly unbuckle belt and trousers and rearrange the whole assem-
blage of outer- and undergarments. When Id remonstrate with
him on the grounds of screaming embarrassment, Dad would be
aggrieved as well as implacable: When you reach full matu-
rity, little Willie, hed say, and accept that youre hipless-
ness cannot be cured, you, like me, will fully avail yourself
of the protections from public scrutiny afforded the disa-
bled. Why, no decent Briton would think of remonstrating with
me for lowering my trousers and pants in public, anymore than
theyd attack a blind man for smiting the pavement with a white
cane. People arent fools. And while they may have hips of their
own, they can still empathise with those of us less fortunate.
Wise but overly optimistic words, I feel. After all, some 40
years later, there still hasnt been a public health campaign aimed
at raising general awareness of hiplessness. Theres no dedicated
charity for us unfortunates; and certainly no Red Hip Day, on
which celebrities go about with their trousers falling down in
order to raise money for our corrective surgery. Left to our own
devices, we hipless ones have had to cope as best we can while
raising our hipless children as well. My father was a glass half-
full sort of a chap but Im a nought-but-dregs one, par excellence.
My approach with my own sons reects this. As soon as I real-
ised they shared my aiction, I told them both: you will always
be pariahs, shunned by hipped men and shamed by still hipper
women, unless you resolve to go on the oensive. The only known
therapy for hiplessness, my little stickmen, is to cultivate hipness.
Yes, thats what I told them, and thats how I raised them: to
sing-song The Velvet Undergrounds Heroin rather than The
Wheels on the Bus, to have their bottles lled with mocha rather
than moo-cow juice, and to wear kilts, lungis, tutus and sarongs
whatever the fuck they have to in order to swaddle their hip-
lessness in hipness. True, some experts on parenting might
argue with this approach, but at least my sons have never
been harmed by secondary smoke, having always had primary
smoke of their own, and a brand new pair of matching Ray-Ban
Wayfarers on every birthday, for that fully-achieved James Dean
look. Has it made it easier for them to cope with their fate? Ive no
idea: one of them is wrangling wagyu beef in Hygo, the others
acoltan dealer in Kinshasa. Even if they were back in Blighty,
both are way too hip to talk to their old man.
 EL SP
AV E

CI
T

AL
20

Tour de
17

forza
Italian craft matched with
German precision in new
luxury luggage range

Renowned for sharply cut

suits,ultra-slick outerwear and
astratospherically successful line
in fragrances, Hugo Boss has now
made an appealing addition to its
arsenal with a set of travel bags for
men. The Madein Italy collection
comprises impeccably crafted
leather pieces nished in Florence
Black leather Made in
and features everything from Italy rucksack, 700;
phone cases to holdalls and trolley suitcase, 1,000;
backpacks to wheeled suitcases. holdall, 900,
Made using naturally grained, allbyHugoBoss
scratch-resistant leather, all hugoboss.com
thebagsare soft-yet-structured,
whilethe colours on oer are
satisfyingly muted the black
isparticularly eye-catching.

Photograph by LUCA CAMPRI 35

Style Fashion
THE STYLE COLUMN
Jeremy
Langmead
Are you brave enough for
these five convention-
bucking menswear trends?
If the fashion world was sensible
and straightforward, it would be
horribly depressing. Menswear
editors would return from the biannual
round of shows and duly report
thatwe would all be wearing trousers
this summer, sometimes short ones,
usually with a shirt and jacket or
blouson and, ideally, since it seemed
to make sense, with shoes and socks.
This would not make great copy
or fascinating photographs. So thank
God some of what we see in Milan
and Paris is a bit bonkers. As well
ascoming up with lots of commercial
clobber that well shortly see in their
stores, the designers also conjure
up some eye-popping peculiarities.
Looking at the spring/summer 2017
collections, these were ve of the
more surprising trends:
OVERSIZED SHOULDERS. Were not
talking Eighties Wall Street power
pads, were talking shoulders that
wont t through standard door
frames or into plane seats; shoulders
that will make people hate you on a
crowded commuter train. These were
36
oversized coats, bombers and jackets
the size of the ones David Byrne wore
in the 1984 Talking Heads concert
lm Stop Making Sense. The label
suggesting these might be cool to
wear was Balenciaga, headed by new
creative director Demna Gvasalia
(also head designer of Vetements).
TEENY-TINY FLIMSY SHORTS.
These may look plausible on an
Olympic track, but anywhere else
youll look as if youre going to
afancy dress party clad as the odious
Jimmy Savile. This wont earn you
any friends. In fact, some shown on
the catwalks, such as those at Gosha
Rubchinskiy, were so short there was
a valid concern that certain integral
parts of the male anatomy may hang
lower than their hems.
JUMPSUITS. Perhaps inspired by
workmens boiler suits, or Churchills
siren suit, the danger with an all-
in-one is it may look too reminiscent
ofthe cover of Abbas Arrival album.
There is also the practical element of
how easy it is to go to the loo. Despite
my concerns, there were denim
all-in-ones from Valentino, military
versions at Louis Vuitton and white
cotton ones by Junya Watanabe.
YELLOW. Although I love the fact
were all so much more adventurous
with colour, yellow is a tricky one
topull o, especially on raincoats
asseen at McQueen and Gucci.
If you want to avoid looking like
bananas in pyjamas, you can restrict
the use of yellow to trousers only;
but really its best kept to swimming
shorts on holiday, especially so if
youhave apaler skin complexion.
RETRO SPORTSWEAR. Fila tops at
Flaunting it: some
Gosha Rubchinskiy, Umbro at O
provocative styles
from the SS17
White, Champion and Juicy Couture
collections have at Vetements, and shell suits at
made it to stores Astrid Andersen and Nasir Mazhar.
Strange to see Nineties streetwear
presented so literally again in 2017.
While retro sportswear elements
mixed in with your current wardrobe
can look contemporary (as Burberry
showed last year), the full look might
appear a bit scally.
The odd thing is that usually we
witness these presentations on
thecatwalk and see more wearable,
watered-down versions in shops
afew months later. The outr ideas
provoke, push boundaries, garner
publicity and showcase creativity.
Today, however, they do that
andmore. The eclectic fantasies
atAlessandro Micheles Gucci and
thetrac-stopping shoulder pads
atGvasalias Balenciaga are in stores
just as they looked on the catwalk.
And people are buying the stu in
droves: Gucci has catapulted to the
topof most retailers best-seller lists
and,despite the eye-watering prices,
Vetements and Balenciagas
creations are snapped up in seconds.
The other weekend, I texted
aphoto of a cropped shell bomber
jacket with gargantuan square
shoulders plus a pair of stack-heeled
faux snakeskin boots (both Balenciaga),
to a friend in his late forties and jokily
said I was looking forward to giving
him his birthday gifts. To my utter
surprise, he texted back with a snap
of amutual friend wearing both to
the lunch they were having in apub.
My rst thought was, Oh dear;
my second was he could balance
alarge round of drinks on those
shoulders. And nally, though
Iwouldnt dare wear them myself,
Imglad he and others do. In a
worldthat, politically at least, seems
keen on stamping out diversity and
championing convention, fashion,
inits own little way is either blissfully
oblivious or purposefully rebelling.
From whichever angle, I take my
Gucci bucket hat otothem.
Style Food
Russell Norman assembles an authentic Mediterranean treat, the perfect summer lunch
There is a moment in the 1987 lm
Withnail & I when Danny the drug
dealer, lamenting the end of
theSixties, captures the sentiment
perfectly: Theyre selling hippie wigs
in Woolworths, man. I often feel this
way when I think about the restaurant
38
THE ACCIDENTAL COOK
SALADE NIOISE
scene today in the UK. What used to
be cutting edge is now commonplace,
what was once trendy now seems
tired. Take those carbon-lament
squirrel-cage lightbulbs that started
appearing in independent, folksy,
hole-in-the-wall restaurants around
Soho and Shoreditch a few years back.
Now theyre everywhere. Theyre even
insome McDonalds, man.
Salad days:
The food trend of recent years that
Russell Normans
definitive salade has started to feel ubiquitous and
nioise is summer bandwagonish is clean eating.
on a plate Itschampions have since disowned
SEARED TUNA IS JUST WRONG.
ITMUST BE MADE WITH TINNED
the phrase, however, distancing
themselves from what was fast
becoming a movement. The supposed
science on which that philosophy was
based has been largely discredited
and its detractors have since
delighted in their schadenfreude.
I have always been suspicious of
food trends, believing that, ultimately,
we are much happier with abowl
ofoxtail soup and afew slices of
buttered bread. I have even, on
occasion, and to the horror of my wife
and kids, been known toindulge in
tinned ravioli on toast.
Now, as long as it doesnt represent
your entire culinary repertoire, theres
nothing wrong with tinned food. Its
quick, its convenient, it takes up little
larder space, and its perfect for
stockpiling in the event of a zombie
apocalypse. When you look at the
origins of preserving food in cans, its
almost miraculous. The technique
was rst perfected in 1809 by Nicolas
Appert, a French chef, confectioner
and distiller.
For around 50 years, no one really
knew why tinned food worked, just
that it did. Louis Pasteur nally
solved the mystery in the 1860s by
proving that the canning process
creates a sterile environment where
microbes cant thrive. (The longest
recorded period between canning
andeating is 109 years. The
steamboat Bertrand sank on the
Photographs by CHRIS LEAH
Missouri River in 1865 but tins
recovered from the wreck and opened
in 1974 were declared perfectly safe
toconsume.)
Which brings me to this months
dish: salade nioise. In keeping with
allmy recipes this year, its aclassic
and, as with all classics, you dont mess
it about. I have eaten this in fancy-
pants restaurants where the chef has
carefully seared a slab of expensive
tuna and artfully balanced it on
themeagre salad beneath. Thats just
wrong, Im afraid. Itmust be prepared
with tinned tuna. Additionally,
itshould be made with an excellent,
freshly prepared vinaigrette and,
whilegenerous on other ingredients,
light onthe leaves.
Russell Norman is the founder of Polpo
and Spuntino;
Instagram: @russell_norman;
russellnorman.net
SALADE NIOISE
Serves four
Ingredients
A small handful of delicate, green salad leaves
20 small ripe tomatoes, halved
Yes you can:
250g French beans, trimmed
tinned tuna,
50g black olives, pitted
below, among the
1 large cucumber, peeled, deseeded, chopped
other ingredients,
200g tinned tuna in oil, drained
is not only
50g tinned anchovies, drained and separated
acceptable to use
6 small free-range eggs
Russell Norman
A handful of cooked new potatoes, halved
insists on it
Small handful flat parsley, chopped
For the dressing
3 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tsps Dijon mustard
Half a garlic clove, extremely finely chopped
Pinch of caster sugar
Pinch of flaky sea salt
Twist of black pepper
Method
1. Put dressing ingredients into a clean jam jar
with a tightly fitting lid. Shake jar vigorously until
dressing has emulsified. Set aside.
2. Place eggs in a large pan of cold water, bring to
the boil and cook for a further 4mins. Drain, run
under a cold tap for 30secs, peel and set aside.
3. Bring a separate pan of salted water to the
boil and cook the trimmed beans for 56mins
until tender but with a little resistance to a bite.
Drain and set aside.
4. Crunch salt onto the cut surfaces of the
tomatoes. With a sharp knife quarter the
eggslengthways.
5. Loosely and generously layer the ingredients
equally into four large, shallow bowls while
liberally drizzling over the dressing to build each
salad. End with a layer of the prettiest ingredients,
a scattering of parsley and a flourish of dressing.
39
 Style Grooming

Multi-grooming kit Sea in a Scrub by Photography Fluid

trimmer byBraun Plant Apothecary Tan Opacity by Niod

Spring preening Yep, its time to whip off

that winter beard and tidy
any other unkempt areas,
Trim, cleanse and comb yourself to polished too. With 100 per cent
wetand dry technology,
perfection. Heres what youll need
lifetime-sharp blades and
abody hair setting, this
all-in-one head-to-toe
trimmer is the tool to own.
53; uk.braun.com
As the days get warmer,
sotoo will your body. This
scrub will put paid to grime,
pollution and sweat that
gathers in your pores. Sea
buckthorn and pumpkin
seed oil heals and hydrates
skin while its fine sea salts
remove impurities.
32/473ml; shop-beast.com
A daily treatment serum to
even out skin tone, reduce
redness and lessen signs
of stress. Importantly,
itmakes you look better
through the lens of a
camera. (Perfect for when
your photo-friendly tan
isnt quite deep enough.)
21/30ml; shop-beast.com

Tonic Lotion Primer

by Bumble & Bumble

To boost your hair, use

thisprimer lotion before
applying pomade or
paste. Its herbs, vitamins
and tea tree oil soothes,
detangles and moisturises
hair so your product takes
better hold. 18/250ml;
bumbleandbumble.co.uk

Bleu de Chanel travel

spray by Chanel
Aromatic and woody with
amber and musk notes,
Chanels iconic fragrance
is now available in travel
size. Refillable, practical
and best kept to hand for
when youre in need of
anolfactory boost.
70/3x20ml; chanel.com

Advanced Night
Repair Eye Serum
byEste Lauder

Reducing lines, wrinkles

and dark rings around
eyes, Este Lauders new
night serum regenerates
skin prone to fading from
fatigue, pollution and the
effects of aging. 47/15ml;
esteelauder.co.uk

Manicure set by Czech & Speake

Flip-flop weather is very close, so tidy up your feet. The
handmade, Teflon-coated instruments in this useful set
resist rust and bacteria and comply with flight regulations
Illustrations: James Graham | Set design: Bettina Vetter

for hand luggage. Convenient. 225; czechandspeake.com

THREE ADDITIONAL WAYS TO CLEAN UP YOUR ACT

BEAST GRUM ATELIER COLOGNE

A new concept store in Covent Garden,
Beast offers curated mens products
fromover 80 premium brands. Everything
in-store is presented in easy-to-navigate
categories: body, shave, hair, face and
fragrance. 19 Earlham Street, WC2H;
sevendials.co.uk/stores/beast
Are you a cosmetically conscious but
time-poor man? Try this delivery service.
List your needs and each month youll
receive a personalised supply of products,
all made in the UK and free from chemical
nasties. Best of all, youll never run out of
anything. From 6 per month; gruum.com
As well as bold summer scents, the big
drawof the French perfumers new Covent
Garden store is the personalisation and
engraving service, allowing you to inscribe
initials or a message onto the leather case
of your chosen fragrance. 11 Market
Building, WC2E; ateliercologne.com

Photograph by CAROLINE LEEMING 41

 Style Tech

SPECI
EL
A
T R AV

2017

44
 SNAP CHAT
2 The five best cameras for summer:
dont leave home without yours

1 | Best for connectivity

NIKON D5600
Mid-range DSLR thats Nikons smallest and
best-connected yet. As well as SnapBridge
Bluetooth/Wi-Fi connectivity to your smart
device, it has 24MP APS-C CMOS sensor plus
video capability and a time-lapse movie feature.
825; europe-nikon.com

2 | Best for value

FUJIFILM X-T20
Predecessor X-T2 was a hit, a mirrorless
interchangeable lens camera offering amazing
4K video and pro-style handling, at a price.
1,400 to be exact (and without a lens). The
X-T20 halves the cost, adds a touchscreen plus
film simulation modes, tactile controls and an
impressive dynamic range. 690; fujifilm.com

3 | Best for night owls

PENTAX KP DIGITAL SLR
A dustproof, weather-resistant mid-level DSLR
with a revamped body, making it slimmer than
many rivals. It has 24MP, a three-inch vertical
tilt-screen, plus a near 100 per cent field-of-
view optical viewfinder. With a ridiculously
highISO setting, you can shoot in almost
pitchblackness. 1,100; ricoh-imaging.co.uk

4 | Best for travellers

CANON POWERSHOT
G9XMARK II
Appealing and retro-looking, its a properly
pocketable all-rounder offering 20MP
pictures, 1080p HD video (though no 4K),
Wi-Fi with NFC and image sync. Theres
also alens control ring for manually
adjusting focus. 500; canon.co.uk

5 | Best for parties

LEICA SOFORT INSTANT
CAMERA IN WHITE
Leicas first instant compact shoots on Fujifilm
Instax Mini film with Polaroid-like prints
buzzing out the side. Youre unlikely to confuse
3 it with something Richard Avedon might have
used but you can change focusing distance,
adjust image brightness and toggle the flash.
(Plus, its a Leica.) 230; uk.leica-camera.com

Words by JOHNNY DAVIS Photograph by BENJAMIN SWANSON 45

 Style Fashion

Black/navy checked wool

jacket, 2,240,
byErmenegildo Zegna.
White cotton shirt, 85,
byGant.
Beige cotton trousers,
235, by Ami.

Dont go o
Green aviator sunglasses,
180, by Ray-Ban.
Black leather bag, 1,680,
by William & Son.

half-packed Stainless steel

Manufacture Slimline
Moonphase watch,3,040,
What you take with you is as by Frdrique Constant.
Olfactories Les Mirages
important as where youre going Midnight Train fragrance,
195/100ml, by Prada.
Black leather passport
Nothing against Paris, Barcelona or Rome, holder, 90,
but theres an atlas full of lesser-explored but byWilliam&Son.
Black woven calf leather
noless vibrant mini-break destinations waiting
slippers, 395,
to be visited. Tohelp you decide where to spend byBottegaVeneta
your next 72-hour holiday and what to pack
for any style eventuality while youre there
this is Esquires guide.

EL SPE
AV
CI
TR

AL

2017

Budapest

Stimulating, young and far from the

bleak city that emerged from decades
of Soviet rule in 1991, the Paris of the
East is full of hip hotels, buzzing bars
andbeautiful people. The food is great,
too. Check out the Jewish Quarter for
the best restaurants, and dont leave
without trying the paprika chicken.

Eat Drink Read Sleep

Its name means auntie in
Hungarian and Tanti is aMichelin-
starred restaurant serving flavours
of classic bourgeois cuisine on its
creative, reasonable menu. tanti.hu
Naff name aside, BoutiqBar is the best
of Budapests burgeoning cocktail
scene. Run by Zoltan Nagy (ex-Londons
Lab Bar), his vesper martini will fuel
raucous nights. boutiqbar.hu
Under the Frog by Tibor Fischer
(Vintage), a darkly comic take on
Hungarys post-war years, will
give your mini-break context
with a few added laughs.
Brody House, artfully laid-back and stylish
(ie, distressed bohemian), is an appealing
boutique hotel. Nip across the street
toBrody Studios members club to drink
classiccocktails. brodyhouse.com

Photographs by ANTOSH SERGIEW 47

Style Fashion

Stone suede shacket,

1,065, by Corneliani.
Eat Sand sisal Napoli hat,
Fresh local seafood at Restaurant 225, by Lock & Co.
360 atop the walls of the old city. Brown leather travel bag,
360dubrovnik.com 2,550, byBerluti.
Taupe suede espadrilles,
200, by Ludwig Reiter.
Drink Sauvage Very Cool Spray
Find alfresco Buza Bar through 57.50/100ml, by Dior.
aslim hole in the old city wall set Navy cotton-linen-
literally on the rocks above the seersucker chinos, 210,
shimmering aquamarine Adriatic. by Gant Diamond G.
Crijevieva ul 9, 20000, Dubrovnik Grey Calligrapher acetate
sunglasses, 245,
Read byPersol.
Dubrovnik: a History by Robin Silver Globemaster
Harris (Saqi Books), is an Co-Axial Master
engrossing record of Croatias Chronometer Annual
second city covering the period Calendar watch, 6,240,
from the 15th-century Ottoman by Omega.
Empire rule to the siege of 1991. Blue cotton-polyamide
swim shorts, 145, by
Orlebar Brown
Sleep
The hotel Villa Dubrovnik offers
EL SP
the best rooms in the old city, with AV E

CI
extraordinary panoramic views.

AL
villa-dubrovnik.hr

20
17

Dubrovnik

Ravaged by war in the early Nineties, the medieval

city was o the tourist trail for much of the following
decade. Now, thanks (in part) to its fame as aGame of
Thrones lming location, the southern Croatian city
has reawakened. ABalkan gem with aMediterranean
accent, the Unesco World Heritage Site perched on
the edge of the Adriatic Sea isworth visiting as much
for thehandsome architecture and not unattractive
locals as for the beach and the seafood.

48
Style Fashion
Green cotton blazer, 845,
byDolce & Gabbana.
Black/white checked
cotton shirt, 65, by
Topman Design.
Brushed steel/brown
leather MW50
headphones, 400, by
Master & Dynamic.
Black polycarbonate trolley
case, 360, by Victorinox.
Black/brown calfskin
leather-canvas technical
sandals, 495, by Herms.
Facial sun care cream
SPF30, 140, by Sisley.
Orange cotton beach
towel, 305, by Herms.
Brown aviator sunglasses,
125, by Ray-Ban.
Black/white checked
cottonshorts, 40,
byTopmanDesign
Eat
A margherita (or marinara)
pizza from the original and
best, LAntica Pizzeria da
Michele, which has been
baking pies since the 1870s.
damichele.net
50
Drink
An insanely cheap and
impressively strong Aperol
Spritz from local favourite the first in a quartet of
Cammarota Spritz.
Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo
32, 80134 Napoli
Read
My Brilliant Friend by Elena
Ferranti (Europa Editions),
afavourite with celebrities and
sensational novels about
two Neapolitan women,
from the Fifties to now.
SPEC
EL I
AL
T R AV
2017
Naples
The brooding southern Italian
port city sprawls in the shadow
of Mount Vesuvius and is as
famous for inventing pizza
asfor the Camorra. Its only
ashort, scenic drive away from
the azure Amal Coast well
worth extending your stay for.
And, of course, it is a menswear
Mecca home to the famous
and distinctive Neapolitan style
as exemplied by Rubinacci
and others. (Make a pilgrimage
while youre there.)
Retouching: Joe Digital | See Stockists page for details
Sleep
The opulent, atmospheric
Grand Hotel Vesuvio,
the itinerant wealthy since the
early 20th-century golden age.
vesuviosorrento.com
 Lets face it, the most challenging
conditions most SUVs face in their
Rock solid day-to-day lives are mounting an
oversized pavement or parking
upina festivals muddy car park.
Land Rovers can go anywhere,
Andthats ne. But it can give
right? So we took our new Discovery someof these models a whi
deep into the Utah desert ofthesuperuous. And sometimes
the stench of plain old smug.
But theres something about
EL SPE aDisco, now 28 years old and in
AV
itsfth generation curvier, lighter
CI
TR
AL
and more self-condent than its
original boxy self that transcends
2017 these associations.
It comes with the knowledge that
should the situation ever arise, and
thanks to its tech-heavy Terrain
52
Response System, it can get you up a
rocky mountainside, through a eld
of sand dunes and across a muddy
bog with barely a grumble.
As well, of course, as cruising very
comfortably on a motorway, with
space for seven adults, or laughing
inthe face of speed bumps, which
iswhere a lot of its life is going to be
spent, after all. We know, because
wetook one tothe wilds of Utah
tosee for ourselves. Not many cars
could have got into this particular
parking spot. And however rarely
you might end up there, its nice to
know you can. Inthis type of Disco,
theres never apanic.
landrover.co.uk
 Style Cars

At home on the range:

Esquires off-road Land
Rover testing ground in
the rugged Utah desert

Land Rover Discovery SD4 HSE Luxury

Engine Power 062mph Top speed Economy Price
2.0-litre 237bhp 8.3secs 121mph 40mpg 62,695
4-cylinder diesel

Words by WILL HERSEY 53


Neo-noir
superstar
A blacked-out, high-tech
watchfit for the Dark Knight
ESQUIRE
APPROVES
Black ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual
Calendar on black ceramic bracelet,
79,200, by Audemars Piguet
audemarspiguet.com
Photograph by WILL BUNCE
Audemars Piguet has set the bar high
oflate. From its yellow goldcollection
lastyear to its titanium Royal Oak Concept
Supersonnerie, the marque is eager to
embrace new horological challenges.
Thisdetermination now extends to itslatest
release, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
All Black Ceramic a watch even Batman
would be lucky to get his hands on as it takes
30 man-hours to machine and assemble
Style Watches
each one, ve times longer than
astandard Royal Oak. The timepiece is
hand-nished with a Grande Tapisserie-
decorated dial and features day, date,
month, astronomical moon and week
oftheyear functions within an elegant
41mm zirconium oxide ceramic case.
Onthe wrist its surprisingly light, making
it ideal for active pursuits (roaring around
in your Batmobile, that kind of thing).
55
Clockwise: Washington DCs Georgetown
district; kayaks on the Potomac River;
khachapuri, a specialty Georgian cheese
pie, on the menu at Compass Rose

THE BARBER DOSSIER

EL SPE

WASHINGTON AV

CI
TR

AL
DC 2017

THE US CAPITAL COMES UP TRUMPS

FORVISITORS WITH ITS DEMOCRATIC
ATTITUDE TO INTERNATIONAL
FOOD,HIGHBROW HOTELS AND
FUNKY DIVE BARS

Fans of House of Cards and the Underwoods
Machiavellian machinations have long enjoyed the
portrayal of Washington DC as a snake pit of deceit
andlies. But with Donald Trump as president, truth just
got way, way stranger than ction. The good news for
visitors to the American capital is having The Donald
inpower means the intrigue and powerplays that create
DCs vibrant energy have reached heights not seen since
the Clinton cigar era. My advice would be to go now,
while its the hub of world news, fake or not.
Tom Barber is a founder of the award-winning travel
SEE
The Smithsonian Institution
(founded by a supremely generous
donation from an Englishman in
1829) consists of 19 museums (17 of
which are in DC) so whether African
art or natural history, theres
amuseum for all. If you dreamt of
being a spaceman, dont go beyond
the National Air and Space Museum
housing the original Wright
(Brothers) Flyer from 1903 and one
LUNCH
A touch of DF (Distrito Federal as
Mexicans call their capital) in DC,
ElCentro DF serves high-quality
Mexican food (no Tex-Mex nonsense)
in the heart of Georgetown. One
fusion exception: for a hungover
brunch try the Mexican Benedict
ofpoached eggs, pork carnitas, salsa
verde and black beans in the $35
bottomless brunch. With a Bloody
Maria (tequila not vodka), naturally.
Getty

company originaltravel.co.uk ofthe Apollo lunar modules. si.edu richardsandoval.com/elcentrodf

56

DINE
Make a gastronomic protest
atthepresidents isolationist
rhetoric by joining DCs
international residents and savvy
locals at Compass Rose for street
eats from around the world in
afun, low-key setting. For a truly
worldwide spread, go for some
Danishsmrrebrd, Georgian
khachapuri and Korean kogi ribs.
Or sit in the Bedouin tent out the
back for the set menu served with
wines of global provenance, from
the Basque Country to Lebanon.
compassrosedc.com
SHOP
Regulars trust the new owner
ofKramerbooks & Afterwords
wont damage the DNA of this
40-year-old institution that
doubles as acaf and triples
asone of the citys best pick-up
joints. Adopt a faintly intellectual
appearance, browse the
labyrinthine bookshelves and
strike up conversation with
bright young things interning
onCapitolHill. kramers.com
PARTY
This city is not big on clubbing
asyou know it, but the king of
the hillamong those that there
are is Eighteenth Street Lounge.
Face control on the door is
notoriously severe but make
thegrade (which you will,
undoubtedly) and youll be
rubbing shoulders with hipsters,
journalists, Wasp congressmen
and minor league lobbyist/
entourage-types enjoying the
nest DJs in DC. On the
subjectof hot DJs, ESL was the
launchpad of music collective
Thievery Corporation.
eighteenthstreetlounge.com
From top: the cocktail bar at
Compass Rose; Kramerbooks
& Afterwords caf; a bedroom
at the notorious Watergate
Hotel; outside Eighteenth
Street Lounge bar and club
DO
DC is best explored on foot
butfor adierent perspective (sweltering). If you use the
onthecity (and a cunning
waytoavoid tourist hordes)
youcan also hirea kayak on
thePotomac River. Paddle past
Washingtons famed monuments
or head further upstream
totackle whitewater rapids. level from locals.
AVOID
DC in winter (bitter) or summer
making his own wiretapping
Metro (you should; streets are
often gridlocked) stand onthe
right on the escalators. Stray to
the left in rush hour and you can
multiply London tubers ire by
1,000 to gauge theindignation
interiors and excellent food from
Style Travel
STAY
With a Republican president
waves in the White House, its
entirely appropriate to stay at
therecently refurbed Watergate
Hotel. After nine years and
$125m, the original modernist
gem boasts Ron Arads slick
superchef Michael Santoro. The
Mad Men retro sta uniforms in
the Next Whisky Bar are by Janie
Bryant, the hit series costume
designer. Room keys have No
need to break in inscribed on
them. thewatergatehotel.com
DRINK
As Vladimir Putin seems the
onlyworld leader Trump wants
to cosy up to, the longstanding
Russia House restaurant/bar
isback on the radar. Dodge
thefood and go straight up to the
Tsars Bar for any of its several
hundred splendid vodkas.
russiahouselounge.com
WHEN IN
Watch acks and hacks dish
thedirt over a Trumpy Sour
cocktail (Knob Creek whiskey,
lemon, honey, thyme) in
theappropriately named O the
Record bar at the Hay-Adams
Hotel, a stones throw from the
White House. This bars motto?
The place to be seen and not
heard. hayadams.com
WHY NOW?
Because given the direction
ofTrumps travel plans,
anyonewhosever ordered
shish tawook inaLebanese
restaurant might bebanned
from the US at some point.
GET THERE:
BA and Virgin y direct
toWashington daily.
britishairways.com;
virginatlantic.com
57
Style Fashion

1. TAKE 2. NAIL THE BASICS

STREETWEAR None of these rules are worth a jot unless
youget the basics right. So stock up on white
SERIOUSLY T-shirts, Breton striped crew-necks and good
Were not suggesting you denim. If youre at a loss, then head to Hugo
gofull skateboarder but Boss. Brown suede bomber jacket, 580; black
youshould at least dip your wool jumper, 120; blue denim jeans, 130,
rubber-soled toe in the allby Hugo Boss
trend, and footwear
iswhere to start.
Ifyoure worth your
stylish salt youll
know the pillars of
summer trainer culture
the Adidas Stan Smith,
the Vans Old Skool, the
Converse Jack Purcell and
invest where appropriate.
White leather slip-on, 340, by
Tods; white/red leather trainer,
525, by Louis Vuitton; grey
suede Chuck Taylor high-top,
90, by Converse

EL SPE
AV

CI
TR

AL
SUMMER 2017 MANIFESTO 2017

Ten improving style principles every man should adopt now the outdoors beckons

3. PAINT IT PASTEL 4. LOSE THE HEFT,

Two key colours for this season are pink and NOT THE LAYERS
stone/beige, keeping things calm and subdued.
Our tip: mix the muted tones and layer up. Layering up for winter is essential, but
Cotton canvas-linen jacket, 160, by Albam; thesame process doesnt need to go out the
pink cashmere sweater, 225, by J Crew; window come summer. Instead, go for light,
beigesuede shoes, 345, by APC airy fabrics like linen and cellular cotton,
whilea vest under a Cuban-collared shirt,
withalightweight jacket on top, will see you
through till autumn effortlessly and stylishly.
Navy cotton blazer, 690, by Emporio Armani;
orange/brown cotton shirt, 125, by Ami;
whitecotton string vest, 30, by Sunspel

5. OPT FOR SOME

EXTRA LEGROOM
Nailing the wide-leg trouser trend is tough,
but it can be done (trust us). The key is to
make sure theyre pleated it makes them
hang better over the thighs and the rest
of your outfit suits their high-waisted cut.
Asimple crew-neck T-shirt tucked in under
an unstructured blazer will suffice.
Brown cotton trousers, 395, by Bottega
Veneta; blue cotton trousers, 70, by Cos

58 Photographs by JODY TODD

 Style Fashion

6. BIN THE
FLIP-FLOPS
Weve never been a fan of
flip-flops in the city. No one
looks at your blackened
feet and thinks, That guys
cool. If you must, go for
bold technical sandals.
Multicoloured nylon
technical sandal, 60,
byCamper

7. UPDATE YOUR 9. CRUSH THE

RAINWEAR LOAFERSHEEL
A light trench coat is a menswear This shoe is so-named because the wearer is
staple.For a timely summer update, supposed to literally loaf around in them. And
Allegri isthebrand to consider. justin time for scuffing about in the lazy days
Light brown technical chiffon mac, 335, ofsummer, numerous brands are offering their
by Allegri usual slip-ons with this seasons must-have
styling pre-crushed heel backs. Look at
designs from Gucci and Harrys of London
toseehow they can work with your wardrobe.
Blue suede loafers, 425, by Harrys of London;
black leather loafers, 505, by Gucci

8. GET NEW (GROWN-UP)

CLOTHES FOR YOUR BIKE RIDE
A common excuse for not cycling to work is having to
changeonce you get to the office. But that doesnt fly any
more. Now,several brands like Gant, Levis and Paul Smith
offerbike-friendly clothing fit for the office. Reinforced
seams,sweat-wicking fabrics, reflective panels, the lot.
Grey cotton jacket, 295; navy cotton zip-up top, 175,
bothby Gant

10. ADJUST YOUR

ACTIVEWEAR ACCORDINGLY
The weather is getting better, gym-hibernation is over and
itstime to take your workout outside. But your techy threads
need to be up to scratch when youre huffing and puffing in
public. Happily, the likes of Marks & Spencer, River Island
andJCrew have all unveiled sleek new sportswear collections.
Grey nylon sports jacket, 40; grey nylon sports T-shirt, 22;
black cotton sweats, 30, all by River Island
Illustrations: James Graham | See Stockists page for details

SPRING WATCH: THREE SPECIES TO OBSERVE COMING OUT OF HIBERNATION AT THIS TIME OF YEAR

THE INKED EXHIBITIONIST THE PLUMMY BRO THE CREEP

The proud and buxom land girl Neil had
tattooed on his calf took 12 hours to
complete, so hes not going to let a little
thing like sub-10 temperatures keep him
from showing it off. (He will, however, remind
you his tattoos are for him, not other people.)
Rollo strides across Berkeley Square, thighs
aching from the beast mode he unleashed
in the gym. His pale blue oxford is tucked into
polo-belted shorts (lime green; too short) and
his sockless feet are in battered deck shoes.
But its fine, because of beast mode, naturally.
Hey girl, where you rushing off to? Arent you
impressed by my deep V T-shirt? Or the ripped
knees of my skintight jeans? Dont you like the
bangles dangling from my wrists? Surely the
fact Im smoking a shisha outside a pavement
caf on a Tuesday afternoon will seal it?

59
Style Fashion

When the
heat is on
Keep your cool in
abreathable bomber

As well as producing the

nestwools and cashmeres,
Ermenegildo Zegnas
breathable fabrics have
quickly become a leader in the
eld. The Milanese labels
From top: navy wool-silk-
latest innovation is its Second
poplin bomber jacket, 1,780;
Skin range. The 23-piece
navy nubuck leather blouson
collection is trans-seasonal with removable hood, 4,950;
and has been expertly crafted brownnubuck leather blouson
for year-round wear. Of its with removable hood, 4,950,
three jackets, our favourite is allby ErmenegildoZegna
the extra-light, water-resistant
bomber in a wool-silk-poplin
mix. But for those a little more
practical, theleather blousons
provide the only outer layers
youll need in the warmer
monthsand have aremovable
hood (so you can wear it
againcome autumn).
zegna.co.uk

The all-weather man

A trio of clever menswear creations engineered to excel in Britains capricious climate

Merino wool-blend Navigator trousers Wind Storm System

sweater by APC by Kit & Ace Voyager due
grande by Loro Piana
This Austrian merino Perfect for a stylish bike
wool thermo-regulating commute, these simple Made from waterproof
jumper is breathable in slacks are woven with microfibre and finished
summer and insulating alittle stretch and are with a natty leather
in winter ideal for moisture-wicking and trim,this holdall is the
Hearst Studios

theBritish springtime quick drying (for the ultimatetrans-seasonal

(and summer, actually). usual 8am downpour). investment piece.
195; mrporter.com 135; kitandace.com 1,610;loropiana.com

60 Photograph by DAVID LINETON

 Style Grooming

ALTERNATIVE
ROOTS
OUT OF THE WOODS
A quartet of Acqua di Parma branches out with a fresh, ebony-toned scent
exceptional
wood-note
fragrances

OAK
Dry and slightly bitter, oak
is masculine and intriguing.
Buy: Miel de bois by
SergeLutens; 170/75ml

ESQUIRE
APPROVES
Colonia Ebano
by Acqua di Parma;
220/180ml, available
MAHOGANY atHarrods
Rich, nose filling mahogany
is a spicier scent option.
Buy: Boss Bottled by
HugoBoss; 45/50ml

BIRCH
Fresh, green and
spring-like, birch has
abrighter woody note.
Buy: Aventus by Creed;
250/120ml
Hearst Studios | See Stockists page for details

PINE Woody notes of cedar and are plenty of other wood notes ebony at its heart, and the scent
Quality pine oil smells deep sandalwood are the core of just waiting to be tapped. is as warm and rich as the wood.
and resinous (but beware
many mens fragrances thanks TakeItalian fragrance creator Balanced with soft honey and
the Christmassy overtone).
Buy: Pour Homme to the resinous scents found in Acquadi Parmas latest release, bright vetiver, this addition to
EssenceAromatique by their oils. Asolfactorily pleasing Colonia Ebano. Inspired by the the Acqua di Parma stable is
BottegaVeneta; 66/90ml as these elements may be, there cabinet-makers of Milan, it has agreat trans-seasonal option.

Photograph by DAN MCALISTER 65

 Style News

CHEANEY STORE
New boots on the ground in CoventGarden

Henrietta Street in Londons Covent Garden is fast

growing into one of the capitals best menswear
addresses. Already home to Nigel Cabourn, Club
Monaco and Albam, venerable cobbler Cheaney
has just filled the gap for a quality shoe shop. Its
newspace focuses on demonstrating the pure
craftsmanship in making beautiful shoes. So, if the
elegant but reliably sturdy footwear doesnt win
your admiration, wall-mounted depictions of how
Northamptons famous shoemaking industry came
tobe the most renowned in the world certainly will.
26 Henrietta Street, London WC2; cheaney.co.uk

Your month
in menswear
Northampton shoemaker cultivates
the Garden, watchmaker shows
some Skin, ace knitwear from the
mod squad, custom-made holiday
totes, the suit with something to
declare and more
SWATCH SKIN
Minimalist watches with maximum impact
Now that Nineties fashion acid washes,
prints, sportswear etc is trendy again,
asuitably retro watch is also called for. The new
40mm Swatch Skin watches are simple, bright
and exceptionally thin (hence the name), and
Black Skinnoir watch, 76; silver-coloured
Skinmesh watch, 80; black Skinnight watch,
are, of course, Swiss-made guaranteeing the
horological chops to back up the pared-back
style. You wont go wrong with asimple black
and white motif, and we love the Seventies chic
of the Skinmesh model. swatch.com
76; silver-coloured Skinsteps watch, 86,
allby Swatch

PRETTY GREEN
XJOHN SMEDLEY
Mod-style knitted tops gonna live forever

Founded in 2009 by Oasis singer Liam Gallagher,
Pretty Green has been tied into Britains music
scene ever since. Collaborating with John
Smedley for an SS 17 collection makes sense, as
the knitwear specialist has dressed The Beatles,
Small Faces, The Who and The Jam right up to
Britpop stars like Blur and Oasis. Standouts
among the mod-influenced pieces are the
striped knit polo shirt in white, brown and black,
and the black-and-white striped jumper, both
handmade at Smedleys Derbyshire factory.
prettygreen.com; johnsmedley.com
White/brown/black wool polo shirt, 135; black/
white wool jumper, 150; black/white wool shirt,
175, all by Pretty Green x John Smedley

67
Style News

ORLEBAR BROWN
XTUMI
Bags of style on the beach

Beyond its fine swimwear, Orlebar Brown
has expanded to offer a wider resort
collection. The British brands penchant
for collaboration continues in its creation
of beach-ready tote bags with luggage
giant Tumi. Our pick is the navy edition
incotton and linen finished with leather,
but if you opted for the photo-printed
version, we wouldnt blame you either.
Our ethos is around celebrating travel,
says OB founder Adam Brown, and
Tumiis an expert in this field with a clear
commitment to innovation. It has been
awonderful project.
orlebarbrown.com; tumi.com
Navy/cream cotton-linen-leather tote bag;
navy cotton-linen-leather photo-printed tote
bag, 345 each, by Orlebar Brown x Tumi

COS ANNIVERSARY
COLLECTION
Brand marks decade on UK high street

It seems too soon to be celebrating Cos 10th UK birthday
but since launching on Londons Regent Street in 2007,
the Swedish brand has spread its pared-back, design-led
ethos further around the world. Standing for Collection
ofStyle, the Cos aesthetic is illustrated perfectly in its
anniversary 10-piece collection. The three mens pieces
within it a lightweight collarless camel cotton blouson,
an elevated T-shirt in bright white poplin and camel shorts
are bang on for SS 17. Esquire tip: wear the jacket as
atonal mid-layer with a light overcoat. cosstores.com
Camel cotton shorts, 55; camel cotton jacket, 115; white
cottonT-shirt, 55, all by Cos

SUNSPELS SUMMER SHOES

Seasonal shodding from a British stalwart

Nottingham brand Sunspels tradition of unfussy luxury menswear

isupheld in its spring/summer footwear, the first designed completely
in-house. The range includes soft suede loafers, simple canvas
andleather tennis shoes and leather sandals. All can be worn with
tailoring and resort wear, so youre all set for summer. sunspel.com
White leather trainers, 110; grey suede loafers, 95, both by Sunspel

RAEY MENSWEAR STORE
Matches Fashion off-shoot comesoffline
Matches Fashion has been selling in-house-designed apparel
online under the name Raey for several seasons. Now the brand
is setting up its first space at 83 Ledbury Road, London W11. The
store will stock the new SS 17 collection and is hosting a season-
HACKETT JOURNEY
Smart men always travel light
Hacketts new Journey suit is cut from
a360-degree lightweight wool thats
treated to be water-repellent, antiperspirant
and antibacterial. Most usefully, its
crease-resistant, so if you stuff it in a suitcase
or sleep in it on the flight, it springs back
Hearst Studios

free drop of new pieces every week. matchesfashion.com into shape in time for landing. hackett.com
Royal blue wool coat, 725; camel brown viscose-cotton Navy wool suit, 750; blue/white cotton shirt,
skater jacket, 395, both by Raey 95; black silk-knit tie, 80, all by Hackett

68
Style Fitness
Start the
working
out week
Esquires personal trainer
Harry Jameson sets you
the challenge of his own
seven-day training
programme good luck
Our expert in the gym and
ofall things tness related,
HarryJameson, has been an
in-demand personal trainer
forover a decade. But how does
he work out every day, what
vitamin supplements does he
recommend, and what kit does
he place his trust in?
Iam well into my thirties
and have been training,
playing sport and battering my
body forover 15 years, he says.
Consequently, my days of
throwing heavy weights
around are well behind me,
and now myregime is far more
balanced and focused.
I need to be supple yet
strong, have both power and
endurance and train my mind,
as well as my body, to manage
stress and improve cognitive
function. These ageing bones
need a lot of injury prevention
work, too.
Heres Jamesons daily
exercise regime to follow.
70
MONDAY
I always do my favourite workout on the
most depressing day of the week. I love
anupper body resistance session, so its
normally a chest and back superset. I lift
more for maintenance than hypertrophy
(muscle size gain) these days. This means
keeping the weight low and rep rate high.
The workout
Each of the following pairs of
exercisesisperformed back-to-back
with1520 repsof each for four sets,
and90secs restbetween.
1. Wide-grip pull-ups and flat
benchpress
2. Bent over cable rows and press-ups
3. Reverse fly and seated shoulder-press
4. Close-grip press-ups and incline
dumbbellpress
Post-workout
Im as dairy- andgluten-free as possible
at the moment, so I avoid whey protein
and use Pulsins pea protein instead. With
82 per cent protein content and a
flavourless taste, Pulsin is great in shakes
and smoothies. 70/5kg, pulsin.co.uk
TUESDAY
Tuesday is interval training. HIIT
(high-intensity interval training) is a key
component of my weekly regime, and
Iburn fat on this day more than any
other, but that makes it the hardest. Im
lucky enough tolive next to Primrose
Hill, soIllrun my sprints up the hill,
weatherpermitting.
The workout
If your outdoor running route lacks
hillsorthe rain is lashing down, then
atreadmill in the gym will do the trick.
Set the machine toa 12 per cent incline
and a 1113kmh speed (or 810kmh if
your fitness is low) and sprint 45secs
for610 sets, resting for a maximum
of2mins between each sprint.
Post-workout
High intensity work tends to leave my
muscles tight, so in the afternoon Ill try
andsqueeze in a yoga session at Triyoga
inSoho. Im not great, but Ifindthe
flexibility work and relaxationto bea
usefuladdition tomytrainingtoolbox.
triyoga.co.uk
The headphones
The noise cancellation of
Boses QuietComfort 35 helps
me stay in the zone.
330;bose.co.uk
WEDNESDAY
Its only possible to train hard when
youre injury-free, so why I visit
acranial osteopath every Wednesday
without fail for a session of soft tissue
work, manipulations and cranial
osteopathy. Amberin Fur operates out
of the Wellbeing Therapy Centre at 58
South Molton Street and shes the best
practitioner Ihave ever used (and Ive
used a lot). 58southmoltonstreet.co.uk
The bag
Montblancs Nightflight Backpack is tough
and has compartments for my kit, laptop,
protein shaker 475; montblanc.com

THURSDAY
Leg day is the one I used to hate,
but now I embrace it. I head to
ThirdSpace in Soho, bang in my
headphones (hip-hop, mainly) and
hitthe phenomenal free-weights
andfixed resistance section.
The workout
I aim for four sets of 815 reps
(depending on whether Im
aimingforstrength or endurance)
ofthefollowing exercises.
1. Squats
2. Deadlifts
3. Hack squats (bar behind your legs)
4. Hamstring curls
5. Bulgarian split squat
6. Calf raises
Post-workout
I always use the steam room for
atleast 15mins after working on my
legs, and then Im straight to the caf
for one ofThird Spaces recovery
meals. Proteinisvital, and although
supplements are important, you cant
beat good old-fashioned food.
thirdspace.london
Illustrations by ROBBIE PORTER
FRIDAY
Golf is a passion of mine and it gives
mymuscles and joints a welcome break
from high-impact activity. I play at the
The Shire London in Hertfordshire, and
the fitness facilities there are excellent.
If theres any conditioning I need to do
with my coach, wecan do it there and
then. Id highly recommend adding some
non-weight bearing recovery activity
into your regime. theshirelondon.com
The trainers
If I had to pick a pair that covers all workout bases, itstheNike
LunarEpicFlyknit. 150; nike.com
SATURDAY
Rest day. It is vital that you take at
least one day off from training every
week. The Corinthia Hotel has one of
the best spas in London, and although
Idont go every week, Ill try to pop in
atleast once a month for a massage
and to get some zen back into my life.
espalifeatcorinthia.com
Style Fitness
SUNDAY
Its important to work all the
energy systems in the body, and
often the most neglected is that
which slow, steady state training
uses. This method takes longer,
and people tend to find it boring,
but it is essential for building up
your muscular endurance.
The workout
I run for around 90mins,
maintainingaspeed of 5.5mins
per km (around 11.5kmh
onatreadmill).
Post-workout
After long, slow runs I try to
minimise soreness by using my
foam roller. Its not fun but
definitely necessary. I roll out my
quads, calves and glutes for at
least 2mins each. I then hold the
downward dog yoga pose for four
sets of 60secs formy hamstrings.
71
 Subscribe to

Six issues
for just
ONLY
9.99*
1.67
AN ISSUE

+ RECEIVE
The Big Black Book, worth 6
To subscribe, visit:
esquire.co.uk/may17
or call 0844 322 1762 and quote offercode1EQ11168
Terms and conditions: Offer valid for UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. *After the first six issues, your subscription will continue at 14.95 every six months by Direct Debit. Free gift is limited to the first 50 orders. If this gift becomes unavailable you
will be offered an alternative gift of a similar value. All orders will be acknowledged and you will be advised of commencement issue within 14 days. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes 30 May 2017. The
minimum subscription term is six issues. ESQUIRE is published 10 times a year and the normal cost of an annual subscription in print is 43.50 based on a basic cover price of 4.35. For UK subscription enquiries, please telephone +44 844 848 5203. For
overseas subscription prices and enquiries, please telephone +44 1858 438 838, or visit hearstmagazines.co.uk. For our data policy, please visit hearst.co.uk/dp. Lines are open weekdays 8am9:30pm, Saturdays 8am4pm. BT landline calls to 0844 numbers
will cost no more than 5p per minute; calls made from mobiles usually cost more.
 Culture Film / Music / Books / Television / Art
Stephen Shore, courtesy 303 Gallery, New York

Stephen Shore, Ginger

Shore,West Palm Beach,
Florida, November 14,
1977, asselected by
writer DavidCampany

>

Edited by Miranda Collinge 73

Culture

Stephen Shore, Penfield, New York, August 12,

1977, as chosen byWes Anderson

The life photographic

Wes Anderson and Ed Ruscha are among the creative bigwigs picking
through photographer Stephen Shores leftovers in a beautiful new book Stephen Shore, courtesy 303 Gallery, New York

Theres not a lot that hasnt already been
said in praise of Stephen Shore. His 1982
book, Uncommon Places, revolutionised
theunderstanding of colour photography
andrevealed Shores ability to draw the
uncannily beautiful from the ordinary. So
how to say a little bit more? Selected Works
is a new book for which agroup of artists,
authors and curators have been tasked with
rummaging through the archive of images
Shore shot for Uncommon Places from 1973
to 1981, many unpublished, and selecting
10each. Wes Anderson picks pictures that
suggest stories, while photography writer
David Campany looks for uses of the colour
green. Artist Taryn Simon uses an algorithm
to pick what others ignored: It makes sense
to pick the leftovers from someone who
focuses on leftovers, she writes. The result?
A series of new thought-lines through which
to appreciate his work, be it women,
carsorAmerican identity. Perhaps these
were Shores thoughts, or perhaps these
selections say more about the eye of
thebeholders. Either way, they reveal that,
36years on from Shores original project,
theres still plenty of greatness to mine.
Stephen Shore: Selected Works 19731981
(Aperture) is out on 23 May

74
 Culture

Pleasure by
Face time
Feist is out on28 On her gutsy new album, Feist gives herself
April (Universal
Music Group) nowhere to hide

How does Leslie Feist, the Canadian
singer-songwriter better known,
boarding school style, by the
surname under which she records,
feel about the whole Apple thing
now? In 2007, the track 1234 from
her album The Reminder was used on
an ad for an iPod Nano, in which she
was seen dancing in a blue spangly
catsuit, and she was catapulted to
alevel of indie super-stardom that
she has admitted she didnt quite
anticipate, shifting a million copies
and selling out the Hollywood Bowl
(in the ultimate nod, she even got
toperform on Sesame Street).
Even if shes too nice to say it, her
subsequent actions suggest she was
happy to let the limelight fade. She
released an album, 2011s Metals,
that was critically lauded yet less
overtly pop, and spent a few years
quietly submerging herself into
talented ensembles, including
contributing to projects with Beck,
Wilco and Jamie Lidell, another
withRadioheads Colin Greenwood
and Airs Nicholas Godin, and
touring with her former band
BrokenSocial Scene.
Now though, shes back on her
own again with a new album,
Pleasure, on which she occupies
centre stage. Feist has described
therecord as a performance
album, saying that my skeletal
frame should be able to hold up
thesongs. There is a definite sense
of self-sufficiency and starkness to
Pleasure: single guitar notes which
might have been chords, and an
earthy sensuality to Feists vocals
which have already earned the
album PJ Harvey comparisons. But
theres also stealth ornamentation
on apparently stripped-back songs:
a sing-a-long on Any Party, the
heavy metal wig-out on A Man is
Not His Song, a Jarvis Cocker
monologue on Century.
Of course, Feists voice, a thing
ofwonder, is still the main attraction,
and when she sings the end is
coming in a trail of descending
notes on album closer Young Up,
itstill sounds like a glittering cascade
of unicorn tears. And maybe this
album wont be the one to help
amajor multi-national corporation
shift soon-to-be-obsolete personal
listening devices, but in
understanding the range of
thisquietly talented artist, it will
makeyou think different.

Oh brother...
Stuart Heritages biography of his younger sibling is an amusing
nod to the normal

Wed like to apologise to Esquires art
director, Pete, for drawing his
colleagues attention to the existence
of a book called Dont be a Dick, Pete.
(Why does it always have to be Pete?
he wailed. You tell us, Pete. You tell us.)
The dickish Pete, as opposed to Esquire
Pete (who is, we swear it, alovely
fellow), is Stuart Heritages younger
brother and the ostensible subject of
The Guardian writers first book. Of
course, its really mostly abook about
Stu, the self-described favourite son
who moves back to the family town
Ashford in Kent to find that his
wayward younger brother has gone
and got all growed-up and supplanted
him in his absence.
And thats kind of it its anone-
too-remarkable account of having
ayounger brother, and the kind of
none-too-remarkable incidents that
happen as a result (one particular
episode in the Heritage lore is now
known as the Baked Potato Situation).
But what makes it worthwhile is
Heritages exuberant, joke-packed
prose which has plenty ofpops at his
white van man in another life sibling,
but also sends himself up with
something of the knowing-not-knowing
pomposity of Will in The Inbetweeners.
Not surprising then, that the rights for
the TV adaptation were hotly
contested. (Something else for
EsquirePete to look forward to.)
Dont Be a Dick, Pete by Stuart Heritage
(Square Peg) is out on 4 May

75
Culture

Road hog: Limo Bob owns the worlds largest limousine

Spot the
frontman!
An album by new
indie supergroup
BNQT doubles as
asuper-fun* quiz

So you can know this: new supergroup

BNQT, which is pronounced banquet,
consists of Alex Kapranos of Franz
Ferdinand, Ben Bridwell of Band of
Horses, Jason Lytle of Grandaddy,
Fran Healy of Travis and Eric Pulido of
Midlake, whose idea the whole caper
was. On their debut album, Volume 1,
each frontman has two songs each.
Before youll get anywhere near
deciding whether its any cop or not,
youll want to know who is singing
what (no peeking at the sleeve
notesnow).
Is that Healy heading up Seventies
piano jam LA on My Mind? Is that
Lytle in a downbeat haze on Failing
at Feeling? Is that Kapranos crooning
out Hey Banana (clue: of course it
is). Its actually not hard to work out,
not just because of their distinctive
Right on the money
voices, but because the songs retain
something of the DNA of their other
Appropriately enough, photographer Lauren Greenfields
bands. So does it hang together? Well, new book, Generation Wealth, is an embarrassment of riches
not entirely. But as a gaggle of fun
experiments by indie top brass it gets
full marks.

BNQT: Volume 1 is out on 28 April
For one of Lauren Greenfields early photographers three-decade-long
(BellaUnion) photography projects, she decided to fascination with the pursuit of wealth
revisit her own high school, the affluent byallsocietal strata what she calls
Crossroads in Santa Monica, California, theinfluence of affluence which
tocapture what it was like growing up became the theme for this extraordinary
onthe right side of town. There, she asked collection of her work. It is a fascination
tophotograph three young students that has taken her all over, from aristocratic
andas she brought out her camera, families in France to Chinas aspiring
theyproduced bills from their pockets. super-rich, to cash-flashing rappers
It wasnt until I developed the film and inAmerica to bankers-turned-fishermen
looked at these images with a loupe, says inIceland after the 2008 financial crash,
Greenfield in the introduction to her new all of whom she photographs with
book, Generation Wealth, that I saw that asympathetic yet steely eye.
these 13-year-olds were waving $100 bills. Whats more, Greenfield actually
*OK, mildly diverting It was just one of the incidents in the talksto her subjects and unearths telling

76
 Culture

Murder of the first

David Granns meticulous book reveals new
chapters in the suspicious killing of Oklahomas
oil-rich Osage tribe a century ago

David Grann has an eye for
a story. His Twitter feed is
awellspring of longform
newspaper and magazine
links: Russian hackers,
climate change, hidden
continents, troubled army
vets, financial skulduggery,
Trump he seems to have
read everything.
The multi-award winning
New Yorker staffer
published his own anthology
in 2010, The Devil and
Sherlock Holmes, in which
the yarn concerning the
death of the worlds
foremost Holmes expert in
mysterious circumstances
set the tone for a dozen
peerlessly reported
examples of indelible
nonfiction. The Lost City of
Z, recently an inferior film,
was one of his. Killers of the
Flower Moon has already
been subject to the
biggest and wildest books
rights auction in memory
a 4m fight that pitched
JJ Abrams against George
Clooney against Brad Pitt.
In the Twenties, after
oilwas discovered on their
land, the worlds wealthiest
people were Oklahomas
Native American Osage
tribe. They took to being
chauffeured around,
wearing fancy French
fashions and educating
their children in Europe.
TheOsage Indians are
becoming so rich that
something will have to be
done about it, noted
Harpers Magazine at the
time. It soon was: they
started dying in increasingly
far-fetched circumstances.
Grann digs deep to piece
together the century-old
mystery, one that led to the
creation of the FBI. Then he
serves his ace: the final third
findshim uncovering new
evidence. Police corruption,
racial injustice, cover-ups,
serial murder, its all here.
You can only guess at the
boggling levels of research
involved. Grann wears it all
so lightly: the man with an
eye for a story has an
eartomatch. Superb.
Killers of the Flower Moon
byDavid Grann (Simon
&Schuster) is out now

Lauren Greenfield:
Generation Wealth
is out on 15 May
(Phaidon)

tidbitsabout them: like the fact that

oneRussian businessman owns 7,000
frog-themed art works, or that a Hong
Kong socialite has named her dogs
Hedge and Fund.
Killer of the Flower Moon words by Johnny Davis

Its a skill that lends itself readily to

documentaries she directed 2012s
brilliant The Queen of Versailles, about
time-share king DavidSeigel and his
wife Jackies bid tobuildamonstrous
Getty | Lauren Greenfield

dream house in Orlando, Florida True detective: Tom

White, theman tasked
and afeature-length documentary withinvestigating the
ofGeneration Wealth is due later in Osagetribe murders
the year.For now though, this is abook inTwenties Oklahoma

that more than earns its keep.

77
Culture
Top gun: Chris Burden,
above, during his infamous
art piece, Shoot (1971)
Taking aim
Brad Pitt plays a deluded general in new film
War Machine, but whos really the butt of the joke?
If you imagine Brad Pitts gym bunny
from 2008s Burn After Reading, and
cross it with his tank commander in
2014s Fury, you have the gist of the
character he plays in Netflix film, War
Machine. Director David Michds new
movie is based on the late journalist
Michael Hastings book, The Operators,
about his time spent with General
Stanley McChrystal (seen left), US and
Nato Coalition Forces commander in
Afghanistan, the original reporting of
78
Big shot
Artist Chris Burden emerged on the scene
all guns blazing, a new doc reveals, but its
what happened next that surprises
If youve heard of Chris Burden,
youll probably know hes the
guy who got another guy to
shoot him in the arm. Hes
alsothe guy who had himself
strapped to a floor beside two
electrified buckets of water, to
see if any gallery-goers would
electrocute him. Suffering for
his art was very much Chris
Burdens jam.
What stops Burden, the
newdocumentary film from
directors Richard Dewey
andTimothy Marrinan, from
becoming just a rattle-through
of Burdens more eye-catching
exploits which first came to
prominence in a 1973 Esquire
article, and led to Burden
beingdubbed the Evel Knievel
of theart world is that it
makes anelegant case for the
artistic merit of Burdens work.
Because Burdens drive to test
the parameters ofart, while
atthe same time making it
unsellable, was something
genuinely disruptive to the
artworld.
which lost McChrystal his job. Michd,
however, has chosen to fictionalise his
character, allowing more creative and
satirical licence.
We get Pitt, with silver hair,
Ken-Doll arms and awkward squint,
doing a comedic turn as General Glen
McMahon, whos trying to win in
Afghanistan, even though no one,
including him, really knows what that
means. Except when he announces
hisnew strategy to a room of sub-
Even more unexpected, after
a drink and drug-fuelled spiral
in the Seventies during which
he bought a truck named Big
Job and seemed to suggest
wanting to use it to mow down
an ex-girlfriend he went on
tobecome something of a Los
Angeles art world treasure (if
youve driven down Wilshire
Boulevard recently youll have
seen his 2008 work Urban
Light, a grid of 202 cast-iron
street lamps he rescued
andrestored).
The film-makers draft in all
kinds of luminaries to extol
Burdens virtues, from Frank
Gehry and Marina Abramovi
to Ed Ruscha and John
McEnroe. The most convincing
case, however, is made by
Burden himself, who with his
wide blue eyes and boyish hair,
is a quiet, thoughtful presence
in the film until, in a somehow
typical move, he makes a quiet,
early exit.
Burden is out on 5 May
commanders that, We cant help
them and kill them at the same time.
Itjust aint humanly possible, and is
met with nothing but grim jaws and
resigned eyes, it seems like hes the
ignoramus. But then, of course, hes
right, and the absurdity of the
situation isnt one misguided man,
buta whole misguided war. And so
thesatire finds its mark.
War Machine is out on Netflix on 26 May

Best western: the original Facebook like button design and
a Disney-inspired LSD tab at California: Designing Freedom
Like, so California!
An exhibition argues that where design is concerned,
wereall in a Golden State
Remember those TV ads from California
Tourism full of celebrities and bikini babes
and a bloke on a really tall bike by Golden
Gate Bridge? Remember how you kind of
wanted to push the bike over, but were
alittle bit jealous of him all the same? That
more or less sums up the British attitude
toCalifornians smug, beautiful, tanned
automatons who suggest by their very
existence that we, on our grey, windswept
isle are actually just a bunch of mugs.
Good news then, from the Design
Museum in London, as its new show,
California: Designing Freedom, posits that
due to the pervasive influence of culture
from the Golden State since the Sixties
weare all, in a sense, Californians. Drawing
together over 200 objects, the exhibition
examines just how our lives have come
under West Coast influence. There is
Getty
areplica of the Captain America chopper
from Easy Rider, doors of perception
beingprised open by LSD, and the magic
ofDisney.
Of course, the light or should that
beshadow that falls over it all is Silicon
Valley, represented by Waymos self-driving
car, an original Apple 1 computer and
Soleio Cuervos original design for the
Facebook like button. Because who isnt
grateful for the screen-obsessed, self-
absorbed world we live in today? In which
Bay Area technocrats make billions from
data harvested from the masses, and
racefor the personal glory of pioneering
the future technologies that may well,
forallanyone seems to know, obliterate
humanity? But ach, who cares. LOLcats!
California: Designing Freedom, 24 May to 15
October is at the Design Museum, London
W8, designmuseum.org
Culture
Cartoon
network
Noel Gallagher isnt
even the most
unlikely contributor
to Gorillazs album
Depending on what level of Gorillaz
fandom you operate, you will await
the release of their imminent album,
Humanz, with particular concerns.
Ifyoure one of the ultra-invested, you
may actually know the names of the
cartoon band mates, drawn by Jamie
Hewlett in order to perform the music
overseen by Blurs Damon Albarn, and
wonder what has happened to them
since their last album, 2010s The Fall.
How did lead guitarist Noodle
survive her trip from Japan to London
inside a box? What did drummer
Russel make of becoming a tourist
attraction in North Korea? How was
vocalist 2D coaxed away from his
beach rave in Guadalupe? How did
bass player Murdoc write the album
while imprisoned in a dungeon
underneath Abbey Road?
If youre more of a casual fan or,
you know, a grown-up, youll be more
interested to find out who Albarn has
sought contributions from. Of course,
news that Noel Gallagher is providing
backing vocals on We Got the Power
caused a flurry. But who cares about
Noel when theres Grace Jones on
Charger, Mavis Staples adding
gravitas to Let Me Out, De La Soul
on Momentz and the
synthesizersonWe Got the Power
are played by Jean-Michel Jarre?
And how does it sound? Albarn
had said he wanted to keep
everything over 125bpm, but it still has
an aura of moody, soulful trip-hop-
meets-hip-hop-meets-funk that is
ambitious, eclectic and not a little
eccentric. Sounds like those
subterranean dungeon sessions did
the trick.
Humanz by Gorillaz is out on
28April(Parlophone)
79
Haute cuisine: a new
breed of high (in
somecase literally)
restaurants are
transforming the City
HAWKSMOOR
GUILDHALL

FENCHURCH COLD BAR

THE NED CABOTTE

BLACKLOCK

80 Esquire | May 2017

 BOB BOB
EXCHANGE

CITY SOCIAL DUCK & WAFFLE

ORIOLE THE IVY CITY GARDEN

N OT SO SQ UARE
ANY MORE
With the worlds most acclaimed chefs arriving
innumbers, and east Londons hip and
accessible ethos driving out a once stuffy
andinhospitable culture, the City of Londons
concrete canyons are buzzing with a newfound
foodie scene. Suddenly, in 2017, going out to eat
and drink in the Square Mile really is the business
By

Rachel Fellows

Esquire | May 2017 81

It was mere courtesy that drew Nick
Jones to number 27 Poultry when it lay
vacant ve years ago. Designed in 1924 by Sir
EdwinLutyens as the headquarters for Mid-
land Bank, the eight-storey, Grade 1-listed
building with a double-domed roof had been
empty since 2007 when HSBC, who took
over the company in the Nineties, moved to
Canary Wharf. As the founder of Soho House
& Co, which has a portfolio of British mem-
bers clubs, restaurants, boutique hotels and
astring of further Houses worldwide, Jones
outspokenly dislikes overly corporate vibes.
For a man whose pet peeve is gaggles of
blokes in suits, eyeing up a gargantuan prop-
erty across the road from The Bank of Eng-
land seemed astretch.
I only went to see it to be polite to some-
one, Jones admits. It gave me trepidation
thinking I was going to the City. I just thought
what everyone thought.
The Square Mile has traditionally been
the preserve of dingy old boozers, joyless
wine bars and clinical, fearsomely pricey res-
taurants which existed solely to cater to the
bilious bankers blowing one bonus or hunt-
ing down their next. The idea of heading to
the City just for the food was laughable (and
if you went on a weekend, when it turned into
a ghost town, hopelessly optimistic).
Many City boys lived up to the clich of
loving bloody steaks at places like Gaucho,
says Geraint Anderson, the former analyst
who, as Cityboy, wrote a London newspa-
per column and published an eponymous
expos in 2009. We were looking for fine
Champagne, red meat, attractive waitresses
and a bill of at least 200 a head.
No wonder the rest of us have tradition-
ally steered clear. But change is afoot. Sud-
denly, the Square Mile isnt quite so square
any more. Its totally changed, says Ander-
son, citing the new working culture brought
about after the crash of 2008. The Bribery Act
[2010] and the Financial Conduct Authori-
tys increasing measures to ensure that com-
panies comply with the rules have led to a
decline in long, boozy lunches and turbo
drinking, he says. People are more wor-
ried about losing their jobs and keeping their
noses clean.
Even chef and restaurateur Jason Ath-
erton, who in 2014 opened his fth London
restaurant, City Social, has noticed how time
has become more valuable to diners. We now
have to deliver a Michelin-star experience in
45 minutes, which was unheard of 10 years
ago, he says. This was part of his reasoning
for opening in the Square Mile: its denizens
were already travelling over to his West End
locations, so he might as well go to them to
maximize their eating (and spending) time.
Then, of course, there was the building.
As more and more skyscrapers sprout
82
on the skyline, restaurateurs and chefs are
beingdrawn to the lofty locations and spec-
tacular views the City affords. Hard-par-
tying restaurant Sushisamba opened on
oor 38 of the Salesforce Tower in 2012, with
the24-hour Duck & Wae two oors above,
and drewcrowds with a far blither attitude
than the imposing structure might imply. Ath-
ertons 24th-oor City Social is sited in the for-
mer Natwest Tower in Old Broad Street, and
proved sopopular he opened the casual bis-
tro Temple and Sons next door at street level
lastyear.
Elsewhere down on the ground, ample
space and reasonable rents have inspired
acluster of quintessentially Soho-esque res-
taurants (code: tiny, aordable, eccentric) to
expand their businesses in the Square Mile,
bringing a new dose of character from the likes
of food truck entrepreneurs and young Scottish
whiskyfanatics.
Geographically, the Square Mile benets
from the fashionable enclave of Shoreditch over
to the east and the nearby Spitalelds Market,
both of which increase footfall around Liver-
pool Street station at evenings and weekends.
Across the river, Borough Market is a chefs
paradise of artisan suppliers; its one of the
attractions cited by three-Michelin-starred
French chef Anne-Sophie Pic, who recently
opened La Dame de Pic, her rst British ven-
ture, in the new Four Seasons hotel near the
Tower ofLondon.
The transformation is not absolute there
are still pockets that drop to a hush come the
weekend and plenty of vacuous bar chains
with oce folk in mind but there are now
many more convincing reasons to venture City-
wards. Financial and insurance companies
now rub elbows with tech rms and advertis-
ing agencies and, as one restaurant owner told
Esquire, There are as many annoying hipsters
as there are City boys.
Thus Joness politeness paid o, and he
opens the doors to his biggest project to date
on 1 May. Named aectionately after the build-
ings architect, The Ned is a hotel, private WHERE
members club, gym and spa with an entire
oor of event space and eight restaurants on
TO FIND
the ground oor alone. It will in part resem-
ble anAmerican racquet club, with a heated
THE BEST
rooftop pool overlooking the skyline and
private bars hidden in the subterranean
SQ UARE
vaults, which featured in the 1964 James Bond
lm Goldnger.
MEALS
I saw I was wrong about the City, Jones
says. I was really pleasantly surprised by the
IN THE
buildings, the atmosphere, the whole old Lon- SQ UARE
don feel about it. And I could see it was chang-
ing and was going to turn into more than just MILE
the nancial sector. Its just got to move on, and
there was a certain feeling that if something
like The Ned opened, it would really speed
that up.
Esquire | May 2017
LA DAME DE PIC
Opened January 2017
WHATS THE DEAL?: Chef
Anne-Sophie Pics new restaurant
focuses strongly on British produce
(Hereford beef, Scottish scallops,
Cornish turbot, even Jensens Gin
from nearby Bermondsey). Haute
cuisine is given unexpected
flavours, like coffee butter served
with bread. Weekdays its just 39
for a three-course lunch.
WHAT TO ORDER: Berlingots, little
pyramid pasta parcels filled with
smoked goats cheese with a tonka
bean and wild pepper sauce
inspired by a French boiled sweet.
WHERE: Four Seasons Hotel
London at Ten Trinity Square,
EC3N; ladamedepiclondon.co.uk
HAWKSMOOR
GUILDHALL
Opened November 2011
WHATS THE DEAL?: The third
branch of the steak restaurant
which woos diners with Ginger Pig
steaks and moody interiors.
Despitenot opening at weekends,
Guildhall is the only Hawksmoor
toserve breakfast.
WHAT TO ORDER: The Hawksmoor
breakfast with bone-in bacon chops,
pork-beef-and-mutton sausages,
black pudding, bubble and squeak,
bone marrow, spicy pulled pork
baked beans, eggs, tomatoes,
HPgravy and limitless toast.
WHERE: 10 Basinghall Street, EC2N;
thehawksmoor.com
FENCHURCH
Opened January 2015
WHATS THE DEAL?: This rooftop
restaurant is onthe highest of
three floors of the Walkie Talkie
building, which looks out onto
theThames. Food is modern
European and smart, with much
sourced fromthe Goodwood
Estate, accompanied by organic
andbiodynamic wines.
WHAT TO ORDER: Goodwood
Estate beeftartare, beetroots, Scottish langoustine
smoked cream and watercress. seared in shellsh
WHERE: Sky Garden, 1 Sky Garden butter with
Walk, EC3M; skygarden.london heirloom carrots,
above, served at
LaDame de Pic
London in the Four
Seasons Hotel, top
83

CABOTTE
Opened September 2016
WHATS THE DEAL?: A wine bar/
bistro with aflair for Burgundy
anda quality menu, Cabotte is
thebrainchild of two master
sommeliers who have 12
Burgundian producers onboard.
The wine list isa tome, with many
fine wines offered by theglass
thanks to the specialist storage
technologies forbottles once
theyre opened. It also offers
anabridged list for those
overwhelmed by too muchchoice.
WHAT TO ORDER: Beef cheek
bourguignon and (obvs) a big
glassofpunchy red.
WHERE: 48 Gresham Street, EC2V;
cabotte.co.uk
84
BOB BOB EXCHANGE
Opening late summer 2017
WHATS THE DEAL?: Known for its
Press for Champagne buttons
atevery table, the art deco
opulence of Sohos Bob Bob Ricard
will be transported to the bottom
ofTheCheesegrater building
laterthis year. Owner Leonid
Shutovsays the restaurant will
cover14,000sq ft with no doors
(only doorways), and akitchen more
beautiful than Rothschilds offices
will serve asimilar Russian-European
fusion to his original. Its going to
make the old restaurant look plain,
Shutovsays. Its so over the top.
WHERE: The Leadenhall Building,
122Leadenhall Street, EC3V;
bobbobexchange.com
BLACKLOCK
Opened March 2017
WHATS THE DEAL?: Few
unmarked joints could garner
as much excitement as
Blacklock did when itopened
first inSoho. Its Sunday roast
was named best inthe nation
by Observer Food Monthly last
year; cocktails are a fiver. Its
newest restaurant is on the site
of Londonsfirst meat market.
WHAT TO ORDER: The All-in
is astack of chops to share;
order charred baby gem and
10-hour ash-roasted sweet
potato on theside.
WHERE: 13 Philpot Lane,
Eastcheap, EC3M;
theblacklock.com
YAUATCHA
Opened May 2015
WHATS THE DEAL?: The Broadgate
Circle outpost of the Michelin-
starred Soho dim sum joint.
Aterrace drenched in blossom
setsthe scene for cocktails;
aspecial Saturday feasting
menuisto be lingered over.
Theadjoiningpatisserie serves
exotic confectionsto take away.
WHAT TO ORDER: The venison puffs.
WHERE: Broadgate Circle, EC2M;
yauatcha.com
The cocktail bar, left, and
expertly-prepared dim sum,
below, aYauatcha trademark
THE NED
Opening 1 May 2017
WHATS THE DEAL?: A collaboration
between Soho House and Sydell
Group in the old Midland Bank site,
expect oldfashioned comfort
yanked up to the modern day,
according to founder Nick Jones.
Iwant everyone to feel they can
go to The Ned, he says. And with
Crashpad rooms from 150
anight, thats not unrealistic.
WHAT TO ORDER: The banks old
welcome desk is now a central
stage between eight restaurants
(including a Cecconis and new
brasserie Millies), and there will be
music and acts late into the night.
WHERE: 27 Poultry, EC2R;
thened.com
Esquire | May 2017
Formerly Midland Banks
London HQ, 27 Poultry
now houses The Ned hotel
and its eight restaurants,
indoor and rooftop pools,
gym, spa and hammam

Londons highest restaurant
(at 175m tall) Duck &Wae, dishof aconfit duck leg on a hearty
top, oers extraordinary
views of the City as well as
food to match, including its
famed namesake dish, above
86
DUCK & WAFFLE
Opened July 2012
WHATS THE DEAL?: Shoot up in
theWilly Wonka-style glass lift to the
40th floor of the Salesforce Tower
and enjoy acocktail at the bar,
withcrispy pigs ear snacks. The
dining room is relaxed and buzzing,
with an open kitchen and wooden
tables placed right on a mezzanine-
cum-precipice overlooking the
streets farbelow.
WHAT TO ORDER: The signature
Tatin with vanilla ice cream and
waffle, fried egg on top and a jug
ofmustard maple syrup. Weirdly
appropriate anytime day or night.
WHERE: 40th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate,
EC2N; duckandwaffle.com
CITY SOCIAL
Opened May 2014
WHATS THE DEAL? Jason Athertons
Michelin-starred high-rise restaurant
serves British food in his creative,
unfussy style. Business diners can
bewhisked in and out (Theyre into Old World, New World and
asking for the bill before the main
course hits the table, Atherton
says). Others make the most of the
cocktail bar before settling down
tothe full three courses with a view.
WHAT TO ORDER: The apple tarte
caramel sauce is made for two
(butwhoscounting?).
WHERE: 24th Floor, Tower 42,
25 Old Broad Street, EC2N;
citysociallondon.com
ORIOLE
Opened November 2015
WHATS THE DEAL?: This multi-
award-winning cocktail bar is in
abasement beneath Smithfield
meat market, with a menu split
TheOrient sections. Quirky but
stopping short of tacky. Its fted
bar bites are aPeruvian-Japanese
fusion calledNikkei.
WHAT TO ORDER: A Skyefall
blends Talisker 10-year-old whisky
with wildbirch-sap syrup, coffee
leaf vermouth and clarified
octopus milk (relax, its milk cooked
with octopus, not expressed from).
WHERE: East Poultry Avenue,
Smithfield Markets, EC1A;
oriolebar.com
Esquire | May 2017
 COLD BAR MAC & WILD PITT CUE
Opened December 2012 Opened November 2016 Opened March 2016

WHATS THE DEAL?: A pair of
distillers brought gin back to
thecore of the City, witha full
distillery producing arange of
notable bottles, as well asa bar
where you can drop in foraG&T
while admiring the very stills
fromwhich your Gcame.
WHAT TO ORDER: Christopher
Wren Gin,a small-batch spirit with
five botanicals and served from
abottleinspired by the architects
nearby St Pauls Cathedral.
WHERE: 2224 Bride Lane, EC4Y;
cityoflondondistillery.com
WHATS THE DEAL?: This second
venue the first is in Great
Titchfield Street, Fitzrovia
hasashooting range with virtual
screens. Its veni-moo wasnamed
the UKs best signature burger.
Meanwhile, venison steak and
chips is just 13.
WHAT TO ORDER: A round
ofhaggispops before a venison
chateaubriand, with anIrn Bru
daiquiri on the side.
WHERE: 92 Devonshire Square,
EC2M; macandwild.com
WHATS THE DEAL?: The former
food truck kings who hooked
Londoners on pulled pork and
brisket traded in their teensy Soho
corner for more space, allowing
them a huge wood-burning grill
and on-site brewery. Top quality
meat from happy animals are
their priorities, translating into
simple, delicious food.
WHAT TO ORDER: Cured, smoked
pork jowl (with a big wad of fat
ontop), and bone marrow mash.
WHERE: 1 The Avenue, Devonshire
Square, EC2M; pittcue.co.uk

Previously in Londons Soho, Pitt Cue

relocated to the City, below, to satisfy
diners demand for its signature wood-
smoked barbecued meat, right

THE IVY CITY GARDEN

Opening June 2017

WHATS THE DEAL?: Sprouting

fromthe famed Covent Garden
institution, it joins aslew of Ivy
cafsand brasseries peppering
thesoutheast of England, but is
thefirst in London east of the West
End. Therestaurant will open onto its
own private garden with retractable
roof (it was the first public garden
opened in the City and was named
apublic space in1863). Open from
breakfast to dinner, itsmenu of
classics will be served inastylish,
informal atmosphere; theres
asmart onyx cocktail bar toboot.
WHERE: Dashwood House, 69
OldBroad Street, EC2M;
theivycitygarden.com

87
 Any colour you want...
...as long as its black or white.
Wiley makes the case for summer monochrome

Photographs by Fashion by

Ash Reynolds Mark McMahon

88
 Stone Island
Opposite: navy polyester blazer, 495; white
cotton shirt, 195; navy cotton trousers, 265,
all by Stone Island. Navy silk tie, 105, by
Drakes. Black leather belt, 50,byWoolrich
Prada
Above: black denim jacket, 655, by Prada.
Black cotton roll-neck, 75, by Sunspel

Esquire | May 2017 89

Daks
Maroon ecked wool double-breasted
suit, 895; maroon cotton roll-neck,
170, both by Daks. White/navy
linen pocket square, 60, by Drakes

90 Esquire | May 2017

Dolce &
Gabbana
Black/white polka dot
wool suit, 1,700; black/
white polka dot cotton-
poplin shirt, 375, both
by Dolce & Gabbana

By his own estimation, Wiley knows Robert

Zemeckis 1989 science ction-comedy Back to
the Future Part II quite well. Ive watched it,
like, a trillion times, he says. Its my favour-
ite lm of all time. When they made Back to
the Future Part II, can you imagine how ahead
they were in their brains? You put a pizza in
the oven, its small; when it comes out its big.
Microwaves! You know what Im saying? It was
the dopest lm ever.
That the movie would strike a chord with
the 38-year-old musician from Bow, real name
Richard Cowie Jr, would surprise nobody who
has followed his career or met him. Wiley,
who in person has something of the frenetic
energy and agile facial expressions of Christo-
pher Lloyds Emmett Doc Brown, has always
been ahead of his time. In the late Nineties and
early Noughties, he pioneered the British musi-
cal genre thats come to be known as grime
(though he called it eskibeat), with the help
of his protg Dizzee Rascal, who became the
genres rst break-out star. Were the yin and
yang, says Wiley. One side of grime is him,
the other side is me.
Now, after a period during which grime
seemed to fade from the public consciousness,
and thanks to a younger generation of musi-
cians like Stormzy and Skepta, it is once again
having a moment and Wiley is getting his dues.
My fans are now kids who wouldnt know me,
except Stormzy or Skepta gave me a mention,
he says, sitting on a leather sofa resplendent
in an Atltico Madrid tracksuit and match-
ing burgundy Nikes in a photo studio in
north London. Theyre the reason Im still
here today. But, of course, Wiley is the reason
Stormzy, the rst grime artist to have a num-
ber one album, and Skepta, who won the 2016
Mercury Prize, are here too. I am, he admits.
It goes hand in hand.
Wiley has always been an elder statesman
of grime he is six years older than Dizzee
Rascal and was known as the godfather of
the genre because of his propensity to encour-
age other younger artists to grab onto his coat-
tails. (In the early days, he produced and sold
his own white labels out of the boot of his car;
as people started to take notice, he took other
artists to the pressing plant so they could make

91
their own.) Not that it was a nickname he was
ready for. Its an old mans title. I wouldnt
accept it, he says. I was denitely too young
probably 26, 27 but when youre the oldest
in a scene they wont let you forget it.
Now, nearing 40, he has come to terms with
it, using it as the title of his 11th studio album
(he has also released 12 mixtapes and, follow-
ing a disagreement with a record label in 2010,
several hours of material on zip les), which
came out earlier this year. Over Godfathers
17 blistering tracks, he reects on his origins.
I had to look at the reasons why they called
me the godfather, and I had to tap into why
Im Wiley. I watched my father be a musician
[his father, Richard Cowie Sr, worked for Brit-
ish Telecom and was involved in the London
reggae scene in the Eighties], so I wanted to be
amusician, but there were times when I didnt.
Ive done every single thing that earns money,
legal and illegal. I tried to resist, but it just came
pouring out of me.
The album has earned near-universal
acclaim theres no dud on this rattling tour
de force, proclaimed The Guardian and in
November, Wiley will be celebrating its suc-
cess with his biggest UK headline show, at Lon-
dons Brixton Academy. Before that, though,
Glastonbury. Wiley was booked to perform at
Worthy Farm in 2013, but when he arrived he
let his feelings about the festival be known in
a now-legendary stream of tweets that began
with Soon as I land Rain s and included
the immortal line fuck them and their farm.
He never made it onto the stage.
Asked about it now, he gives a decidedly
Doc Brown-esque answer about how the gov-
ernment didnt want me to experience it in the
way that I should have experienced it, but says
that he is looking forward to attending this year
with an open mind and a really sick camping
trailer a house on wheels, basically.
The problem then, he says now, was sim-
ply one of timing. I know that if I was in Glas-
tonbury in the Eighties, I could have stood in
that eld with everyone and seen what it would
look like in 26 years anyway with my vision,
I would have been able to see. I had to nd my
own way, and now Ive found it.

Interview by Miranda Collinge

The Godfather by Wiley

(CTARecords) is out now

Boss
Grey wool suit, 530;
white cotton shirt, 140;
green silk knitted tie,
125; white silk pocket
square, 45, allby Boss

92 Esquire | May 2017

 Gucci
Indigo/red/silver paisley cotton-satin
jacket, 1,870; indigo/red/silver paisley
cotton-satin trousers, 795, both by Gucci

94
 Photographers assistant: Neil Payne | Digital operator: Shivy Kanagaratnam | Fashion assistant: Emie James-Crook | Hair: Carl Murray
Grooming: Jennie Roberts at Frank Agency using Bobbi Brown | Retouching: Artmedia Partners | See Stockists page for details

Esquire | May 2017

Dior Homme

shirt, 500; black/white pinstripe silk-wool-

Black/white pinstripe silk-wool-cotton-blend

cotton-blend suit trousers, all by Dior Homme

suit jacket, 1,550; black/white patterned cotton

95
 Its truth time
Before there was HBO, Netix and Amazon Prime there
was The Sweeney, The Professionals, Bergerac. This
month, Mindhorn, a new comedy from The Mighty
Booshs Julian Barratt, pays twisted tribute to the glory
days of the British TV detective, and the men who played
them. Forbetter and much, much worse

By

Dan Davies

In Mindhorn, Julian Barratt is Richard

Thorncroft, a washed -up actor desperate to
revive his Eighties career peak as a TV secret
agent with a lie-detecting eyepatch

96
97
Dawn broke on the golden age of British
TV detectives in January 1975, at a time when
THE SWEENEY
the Prime Minister Harold Wilson was facing
up to the grim reality of a double-dip reces- WHO:

sion, IRA bombs were being detonated across

the mainland and Margaret Thatcher was pre-
THE DI Jack Regan (John Thaw)
andDS George Carter

paring to take charge of the Conservative Party. BRIT-COP (DennisWaterman)

WHAT:
The Sweeney, ITVs seminal series about the
Flying Squad, was adrama that appeared to be YEARS Officers in the Metropolitan
Polices Flying Squad
in step with its time gritty, uncompromising
and violent and one that marked a decisive WHERE: WHEN:
London 197578
shift away from the cosy British police shows
CAR:
that had gone before.
The golden age of Ford Consul 3000GT;
The show made unlikely sex symbols of a
UK TV detectives made for Ford Granada Mk II 2.8iS
pair of hard drinking, resolutely non-PC, plain-
clothes cops Detective Inspector Jack Regan
some arresting viewing. FOIL:

(played by John Thaw) and Detective Sergeant Heres an identity parade of Detective Chief Inspector Frank Haskins
the guilty parties (Garfield Morgan)
George Carter (played by a youthful Dennis
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Waterman). Their uncompromising approach
to collaring violent criminals involved daytime Aggressive, hard-drinking womanisers
with an in-built disdain for authority
boozing, brawling with toe-rags and shouting
Shut it! and guvnor alot. Low-speed car-
chases around light industrial parks and inner-
city waste grounds (usually involving random
piles of cardboard boxes) were de rigueur.
Spanning four years and 53 episodes, The the duvet. Pulling up one corner, he reaches Man who wears an eyepatch that conven-
Sweeney was the rst realistic, modern police inside with his other hand and squeezes. Do iently allows him to see the truth. Its asci-
procedural on British television. In its wake fol- all coppers have cold hands? murmurs the Bergerac, says Simon Farnaby, Barratts
lowed The Professionals, Dempsey and Make- woman, half-asleep. Only the randy ones, co-star and co-writer, referring to the Jersey-set
peace, Shoestring, Bergerac, Inspector Morse, he leers. Maybe you had to be there. (For those Eighties detective series.
Poirot and Spender, shows which became x- who werent, The Sweeney was memorably Featuring eye-catching cameos from Steve
tures in the pre-satellite TV, pre-internet liv- spoofed 10 years ago by the BBCs time-travel Coogan, Kenneth Branagh and Andrea Rise-
ing rooms of a nation, and whose stars became cop show, Life on Mars, with Philip Glenisters borough, Mindhorn (the lm, not the ctional
some of the most famous faces in the country, Gene Hunt standing in for Shaws Regan.) TV show) opens with Thorncroft out of work
for good and sometimes ill. and living alone; an overweight, toupee-wear-
This month, a new comedy lm, Mindhorn, In Mindhorn, Julian Barratt plays ing has-been surrounded by reminders of his
pays tribute to the great British TV detectives of Richard Thorncroft, a washed-up actor who all-too-brief spell in the spotlight. Its the
the Seventies, Eighties and early Nineties, in all in theEighties was the star of a TV detective story of an actor who is bitter, explains Bar-
their dubious splendour, and pokes fun at the show, also called Mindhorn, about a mous- ratt. Hes out of time, out of shape and out of
actors whose stars rose and fell as their popu- tachioed former secret agent on the Isle of luck. (Thorncroft, the story goes, walked away
larity waxed and, inevitably, waned.
Those shows are so unreconstructed, Dennis Waterman as Detective Sergeant George Carter and John Thaw as Detective Inspector Jack Regan,
reects Julian Barratt, the star and co-writer of the unrepentant, hard men cops of the Flying Squad in the ITV series The Sweeney (197578)
Mindhorn, previously best known for his work
on The Mighty Boosh and Nathan Barley. They
have an old-school macho ethic, and a cavalier
morality which makes them fun to watch at an
ironic distance.
A very ironic distance: when the audience
rst meets Jack Regan in the opening episode
of The Sweeney, he is wearing a skimpy ladies
kimono. The living room of the flat he has
woken up in is littered with unnished tum-
blers of scotch and brimming ashtrays. Back
at the station, Regans colleagues are none the
wiser to his whereabouts, although their suspi-
cions are clearly based on form: His kidneys
must be waving a white ag, mutters one.
Having climbed into a pair of ared slacks
and xed the knot on a kipper tie so wide its
impossible to tell the colour of his shirt, Regan
opens the door of the bedroom and nds the
Rex

previous nights conquest still comatose under

98 Interview
 THE PROFESSIONALS
WHO:
Ray Doyle (Martin Shaw),
ex-Metropolitan Police
officer, and William Bodie
(Lewis Collins), formerSAS sergeant
WHAT:
CI5 officers
WHERE: WHEN:
London, Home Counties 197783
CAR:
Ford Escort RS2000;
Ford Capri 3.0S Mk III
FOIL:
Criminal Intelligence 5 boss
GeorgeCowley (Gordon Jackson)
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Mildly compassionate health-food fan
(Doyle); unsmiling thug (Bodie)
from his show at the height of his success, in
adoomed bid for Hollywood stardom.)
Everything changes when a deranged killer
on the Isle of Man contacts the police and
demands to speak to Mindhorn. Sensing this
might be the last opportunity to relaunch his
failed career, Thorncroft sucks in his gut, dons
his old garb and heads back to the island, ready
to revive his once-famous ctional secret agent.
As a result, Thorncroft is forced into asurreal
reckoning with his past truth-revealing eye-
patch and all.
For all its ights of mad fancy, Mindhorn is
inspired by true stories of TV thespian hubris:
for the British actors who became and
remain synonymous with their crime-ght-
ing alter egos, the viewing publics appetite
for flawed coppers, tormented private eyes
and eccentric super-sleuths has proved to be
a mixed blessing. Some, like John Shaw, who
went on to play Inspector Morse after The
Sweeney, and John Nettles, who starred in
Bergerac, appeared to embrace their strange,
typecast fame. For those who regarded them-
selves as serious actors Martin Shaw in The
Professionals and Trevor Eve in Shoestring, for
example it was a ball and chain. And for one
step forward David Suchet in Poirot it took
over his life completely.
We had a big debate about Thorncrofts
relationship with Mindhorn, says Farnaby of
the 10 years they spent working on the script.
It makes a big dierence in a comedic sense.
For a while, we thought he should hate the
show like Martin Shaw with The Professionals,
but we realised that he would have to embrace
coming back and putting on the eyepatch and
saying, Hello old friend.
Esquire | May 2017
SHOESTRING
WHO:
Eddie Shoestring (Trevor Eve)
WHAT:
Former computer expert turned private
investigator and radio show host
WHERE: WHEN:
Bristol 197980
CAR:
Hillman Hunter;
Ford Cortina Mk III estate
FOIL:
Erica Bayliss (Doran Godwin), barrister
and Shoestrings landlady
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Erratic, prone to sudden fits of rage
A typical mornings work for Ray Doyle, played by
MartinShaw, inTheProfessionals (197783)
The Professionals, which arrived hard on the
heels of The Sweeney, was a full frontal assault
on the senses with a furiously funked-up theme
tune and fast-cut credits showing cars crashing
through windows and its main protagonists
sprinting, pushing weights and, well, sprint-
ing again. Martin Shaw played the extrava-
gantly permed former policeman Ray Doyle,
with Lewis Collins as the pouting ex-SAS ocer
William Bodie. Working under the shadowy
auspices of CI5 special men combating
anarchy, acts of terror, crimes against the pub-
lic this unintentionally camp partnership
was supposed to be Britains answer to Starsky
&Hutch, with California substituted for Silver
Jubilee-era Hertfordshire.
One obstacle was the fact Britains new
buddy cop duo didnt like each other much.
There was friction, confirmed director
BERGERAC
WHO:
Jim Bergerac
(John Nettles)
WHAT:
Former officer with the States of Jersey
Police Bureaudestrangers
WHERE: WHEN:
Jersey 198191
CAR:
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000 convertible
FOIL:
Millionaire businessman and former
father-in-law Charlie Hungerford
(Terence Alexander)
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Divorced, recovering alcoholic with an
eye for the ladies. And a dodgy leg
Martin Campbell many years later. Martin is
from the theatre, he is a professional actor, and
had been for a long time. Lewis isnt.
Farnaby chuckles: They both took them-
selves quite seriously but Martin Shaw de-
nitely took himself more seriously. Lewis
Collins just looked really good. Shaw never
attempted to conceal his misgivings over the
shows high levels of violence and one-dimen-
sional main characters. In The Professionals
Annual, published in 1979 at a time when he
was still playing Doyle, Shaw was asked what
he looked for in a script. Truth. Plausibility.
Integrity, he replied earnestly. I dont nd
much in The Professionals to make me explore
myself as an artist. Ouch.
The Professionals ran from 1977 to 1983, and
made household names of both men. Shaw went
on to enjoy a prolic career; Collins starred in
the ill-fated 1982 SAS movie Who Dares Wins
(aka The Final Option outside the UK), and was
briefly mentioned as a possible James Bond.
After Collins moved to Los Angeles to explore
movie opportunities, however, his acting career
stalled and he wound up running a computer
company, quietly fuming as his erstwhile co-star
refused to entertain ideas of a remake, and
worse, put the kibosh on lucrative re-runs over an
alleged dispute over copyright and Equity fees.
Shaw continued to bridle when questioned
about The Professionals. Hed probably shoot
one series over 10 weeks of lming, have a year
o with a run at the Old Vic, and then do the
next series, Farnaby says. And those little
bits of lming have dened his professional
life. Imean, how many times has he had peo-
ple shout at him, Oi Doyle, wheres the perm?
Barratt smiles: I love the idea of Thorncroft
99
 DEMPSEY AND
MAKEPEACE
WHO:
Lieutenant James Dempsey
(Michael Brandon) and Detective Sergeant
Harriet Makepeace (Glynis Barber)
WHAT:
Exiled New York cop and English detective
working for SI10, an elite police unit
WHERE: WHEN:
London, Home Counties 198586
CAR:
Ford Escort XR3i Cabriolet
FOIL:
Chief Superintendent Gordon Spikings
(Ray Smith)
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Noblewoman and streetwise New Yorker,
drawn romantically to each other (in real
life, too; the actors married in 1989)
doing Hamlet and someone in the audience
shouting, Its truth time [Mindhorns catch-
phrase] and him absolutely losing his shit
onstage.
There are dierent ways of dealing with
ones past, Barratt concedes. There are those
with golden memories of this as an incredi-
ble time in their lives that they love talking
about, and then there are those who say theyve
moved on. Trevor Eve was among the latter,
and provided further inspiration for the char-
acter of Mindhorns Richard Thorncroft.
In 1979, Eve, a 27-year-old stage actor, was
plucked from obscurity to star in Shoestring. Set
in Bristol, the series centred on a psychologi-
cally fragile computer expert who enjoys doo-
dling before reinventing himself as a private
eye with his own late-night radio show. With his
moustache, crumpled jackets and permanently
loosened tie, Eddie Shoestring became a poster
boy in the early days of Thatchers Britain.
The show ran for two seasons and drew
audiences upwards of 17m, but Eve found over-
night fame to be really freaky. It was the
last thing I wanted to do. I was doing movies
theatre, he recalled of his decision to quit
the series. I just wanted to go o and do lots of
other stu theatre. More than 36 years on,
and still unable to get rid of Eddie Shoestring,
Eve admits ruefully that hes followed me.
Eves desire to escape forced the produc-
tion team behind Shoestring to tweak the for-
mat and relocate the drama to Jersey. The
result was Bergerac, which ran for 10 years
from 1981, and was perhaps the TV detec-
tive series that most accurately reected the
Thatcher years. John Nettles played a recently
divorced, recovering alcoholic who became
100
THE EQUALIZER
WHO:
Robert McCall
(EdwardWoodward)
WHAT:
Mysterious British ex-covert operations
officer with US government intelligence
agency known as The Company
WHERE: WHEN:
New York 198589
CAR:
Jaguar XJ6 Series III
FOIL:
Control (Robert Lansing), the head of
the agency where McCall used to work
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Desire to atone for his past via offering
his services for free. Oh, and a concealed
weapons cabinet in his apartment
Michael Brandon as James Dempsey in Dempsey and
Makepeace (198586)
aprivate investigator after being axed from
his job with the States of Jersey Police. It is tell-
ing of the times that Jim Bergeracs chief foil
was a morally dubious millionaire business-
man, Charlie Hungerford (played by Terence
Alexander). There were a lot of businessmen
in these shows in the Eighties businessmen
doing business, says Barratt.
Bergerac was always about business,
agrees Farnaby.
Inspired by Bergerac, the idea had always
been to set Mindhorn on an island. We liked
that idea of the place being a character in
itself, explains Barratt. The original idea
was that Mindhorn was an extended tourism
advert, and they were contractually obliged
to mention the Isle of Mans microclimate in
INSPECTOR MORSE
WHO:
Chief Inspector Endeavour
Morse (John Thaw)
WHAT:
Officer with the
ThamesValley CID
WHERE: WHEN:
Oxford 19872000
CAR:
Jaguar Mark II
FOIL:
Detective Sergeant Robbie Lewis
(KevinWhatley)
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Cynical, unambitious; opera, poetry and
classical music lover; real ale drinker.
Astickler for grammar
every episode, continues Farnaby. You watch
Bergerac and the wind is always howling and
their hair is blowing everywhere. Theyll be
sitting in a caf and outside the umbrellas will
be turning inside out but Bergerac will say,
Another beautiful day in Jersey. John Net-
tles, the islands most famous adopted son, has
written a series of books on Jersey.
While Mindhorn mines a rich seam of
comedy from the numerous motifs that have
become deeply embedded within the Brit-
ish psyche, it also reects how playing a c-
tional crime ghter can do strange things to
an actors mental state. Theres quite a bit
of David Suchet in Thorncroft, confirms
Farnaby, referencing the extreme lengths the
method actor went to during his 25 years as
Hercule Poirot, Agatha Christies eccentric Bel-
gian detective. His way of getting into charac-
ter and his actor-ish way of explaining his pro-
cess was very funny to us, adds Barratt. We
really enjoyed the way he unpacks his process.
I read he went in so deep with one play that he
came out too soon and got the bends. He for-
got who he was and he needed a hypnotist to
help him remember his own wifes name, and
where he lived.
Being Poirot (2013) is a y-on-the-wall doc-
umentary that follows Suchet during lming of
the nal episodes in a franchise that spanned
70 episodes watched by more than 700m view-
ers in over 100 dierent countries. It illuminated
the full and sometimes alarming extent of the
actors commitment to his character. Hercule
Poirot, for me, is almost a real person, Suchet
Getty | Rex
said without a icker of irony. He is the person
who was responsible for my life for 25 years. Ive
Esquire | May 2017

AGATHA CHRISTIES
POIROT
WHO:
Hercule Poirot
(DavidSuchet)
WHAT:
Belgian detective
WHERE: WHEN:
Numerous locations 19892013
across Britain
andEurope
CAR:
Travelled by train and taxi
FOIL:
Captain Hastings (Hugh Fraser),
companion and chronicler
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Too many to list, although his
pathological obsession with neatness
andhis appearance rank fairly high
got to know him; Ive lived him. Hes my invisi-
ble, closest and best friend. After watching the
climactic scene in which Poirot dies, Suchets
biographer described the actors sense of loss as
apersonal tragedy.
For David Suchet, the point where he
ceased to exist was the moment Hercule
Poirots pencil-thin moustache was attached
to his top lip. In Richard Thorncrofts case,
the trigger was Mindhorns slip-on shoes: Its
pretty standard Stanislavkian method, laughs
Barratt. You nd the shoes, you nd the man.
I didnt want to do a shot without his shoes on,
even if my feet werent in the frame. My charac-
ter doesnt stop at the knees, you know.
As the Eighties gave way to the Nineties,
and John Major replaced Thatcher in Downing
Jim Bergerac, played by John Nettles, drives his iconic 1949 TriumphRoadster 2000 convertible
on the beach in Jersey in the BBC series (198191)
SPENDER
WHO:
Detective Sergeant Freddie
Spender (Jimmy Nail)
WHAT:
Former high-flyer in the Metropolitan
Police who is transferred to his native
Newcastle indisgrace
WHERE: WHEN:
Newcastle 199193
CAR:
Ford Sierra Sapphire RS Cosworth
FOIL:
Kenneth Stick Oakley (Sammy Johnson),
friend and local criminal
PERSONALITY TRAITS:
Dour. Very dour
Street, twilight settled over the golden age of TV
detectives. Newcastle, a less promising destina-
tion than some in terms of drumming up tour-
ism, was chosen as the backdrop for Detective
Sergeant Freddie Spender, a character which
helped to turn Jimmy Nail, the former star of
Auf Wiedersehen, Pet, into the highest-paid actor
on British television. The shows success also
allowed its star, a man one TV critic memora-
bly described as having a face that looked better
when viewed in the back of a spoon, to revive
a dormant singing career: Aint No Doubt album of songs from his follow-up TV series,
(sample lyric: Shes lying) topped the UK sin-
gle charts for three weeks in summer 1992.
Nail was following a path previously trod-
den by Dennis Waterman, who had gone on
to play Terry McCann in Minder, a character
sharing much of the same tough guy DNA
as The Sweeneys George Carter. Waterman
released no less than 12 singles and an album
(Down Wind of Angels) between 1976 and 1983,
the most famous and successful being I Could
Be so Good for You, the Minder theme tune.
I like the idea that because of the huge
number of people who watched the shows,
some actors had this belief they could make this
leap into music and suddenly have a career,
says Barratt, who confesses hes keen to write
a follow-up to Richard Thorncrofts doomed
album, Handcu the Wind. They often seemed
to believe they were really that talented and
deserved all this stu. The acclaim youd get for
quite average stu, and the avenues that would
open up for you back then, was amazing.
In Spender, Nail played a cynical, relent-
lessly downbeat Geordie cop with Chris Wad-
dle hair and shirts worn with the top button
done up. By 1993, amid newspaper reports
that he had become increasingly dicult to
work with, Nail decided he had had enough. I
nd it very hard to play a part, then take it o
like a cheap suit and become Mr Normal, Mr
Nice Guy, he told the TV Times after calling
time on a series he had co-written and execu-
tive-produced. I havent got the kind of disci-
pline where I can turn my emotion inside out
and then just switch o. It aects me fairly pro-
foundly and I dont like putting myself through
that kind of mincer every day.
Nail headed to Hollywood after Spender,
where he appeared alongside Madonna in
Evita. By 1997, he was touring large arenas
having topped the music charts again with an
Crocodile Shoes. And as for Richard Thorn-
croft? After LA went wrong, he came back
and did some theatre, and possibly said no to
panto, Barratt says. He traded on Mindhorn
for a while and when he couldnt get work he
convinced himself it was a decision that hed
made not to work.
Mindhorn was one of the last of a dying
breed of mavericks, eccentrics and alpha-males.
It seemed that cop shows suddenly wanted to
concentrate on the boring guy, the bloke who
just wears a coat, says Farnaby. Inspector Frost
[A Touch of Frost starring David Jason], was just
a man who had a moustache and a coat. Wyclie
[played by Jack Shepherd from 199498] didnt
even have a moustache. He had a beige sort of
coat and that was about it. Sadly, none of the
modern detectives are that interesting.
If Mindhorn represents the culmination of
a long journey for its creators, it is also a tting
epitaph for the TV detectives of a bygone era.
It was really good fun, says Barratt. I would
ring up Simon, going you need to watch this
episode of Bergerac. You call it research, but
really you just end up watching Bergerac.
Mindhorn is out on 5 May
101
 Classic
summer
style:
an Esquire
guide
With help from
Paul Newman,
Steve McQueen
and this guy

102 Esquire | May 2017

 Believe it or not,
kids, there was
atime when this
iswhat a president
looked like: JFK,
Hyannis Port, 1963
Cecil Stoughton/John F Kennedy Library
 0 17 A n
2 Es
de q

ui
ui

re
g
c
Cl a s s i r

n E sq uire

guid
e
summ

e 20
st yle
A

7 1
17
0

A
n
2 quir
Es
e guide

Clockwise: President-elect John F Kennedy,

Palm Beach, Florida, Christmas Day 1960;
Paul Newman, Washington DC airport,
August 1963; Miles Davis leaving the Prestige
Records offices, New York, 1959; Jean-Paul
Belmondo outside a caf, Italy, 1960
 Warm weather doesnt have to mean slovenly style. Suits should be in
breathable fabrics (cotton, linen, silk, not pure wool), shirts should be pale,
and separates should be fitted but not tight. If in doubt, think Miles Davis

Summer tailoring

Cream cotton blazer, 395; cream cotton trousers, 145, Green wool-linen double-breasted blazer, 1,185; green wool-linen
both by Hackett. Light blue cotton shirt, 195, by Turnbull trousers, 395, both by Thom Sweeney. White cotton shirt, 200,
& Asser. Navy/white dotted silk knit tie, 135, by Drakes by Emma Willis. Green denim tie, 140, by Herms

Light blue wool-mix suit, 895; navy/purple

striped silk tie, 95, both by Gieves & Hawkes.
Pink cotton shirt, 115, by Thomas Pink

Brown calf suede loafers, 510, by Crockett & Jones Black calfskin leather shoes, 410, by Churchs
AP/Rex | Elio Sorci/Camera Press | AP/PA

Black leather-suede document briefcase, 475, Dark brown calfskin leather brogues, Stainless steel Heritage Chronomtrie Chronograph Annual
byWilliam & Son 615,by JM Weston Calendar on black leather strap, 7,800, by Montblanc

Esquire | May 2017 105

Clockwise: Steve McQueen riding a Triumph TR 650,
London, September 1963; Paul Newman on a big game
fishing boat, Florida, 1967; Warren Beatty nursing a beer
on the set of The Only Game in Town, Las Vegas, 1970;
Peter Lawfordand JFK visiting the Coast Guard yacht
Manitou,Maine, August 1962

d e 2 0 17
gui
i re
u

A
sq

Cl a
nE
0 17 A n E

s u m s s ic
sq u
ire g uide

m
st yl er
2

e
de

i 0
gu An
17
E sq uire
 Dont complicate the basics. Theres a reason brands become associated
with specific items: a T-shirt from Sunspel, jeans from APC, Ray-Ban shades
and a Baracuta Harrington. Because if its good enough for Warren...

Weekend
classics

White cotton T-shirt, Blue cotton shirt, 80,

65, by Sunspel byGant

Red cotton Harrington jacket, 285, by Baracuta

Michael Descamps/Getty | Mark Kauffman/Getty | Robert Knudsen/John F Kennedy Library | Camerique/Getty

White canvas trainers, 50, by Converse

Sand cotton chinos, Indigo denim petit new standard

205, by Incotex jeans, 160, byAPC

Brown tortoiseshell acetate Wayfarer sunglasses, 170, by Ray-Ban

Esquire | May 2017 107

 i d e 2 0 17
gu
i re A

n
Cl a

sq

Es
s u m s s ic

An E

quir
e guide
m
st yle er
0 17
2

2
de
i 0
17
gu An
E sq uire

Clockwise: World Heavyweight Champion Muhammad Ali shadow boxing,

Haverstock Hill, London, August 1966; Robert Redford on the set of Little Fauss
and Big Halsy, California, 1970; Paul Newman relaxing on a skiff in the Florida
Keys, 1967; Steve McQueen working out at Paramount Studios, Hollywood, 1963
 While we wouldnt advise wearing one to dinner, tracksuits are no longer for
losers, and sweats can even look good in public. (If youre Robert Redford.)
Take a tip from the experts and keep it classy, though. No hoodies

At the gym

Navy cotton-jersey sweatshirt, 585, by Gucci Tan leather duffel bag, 1,440, by Ralph Lauren Purple Label

Navy cotton sweater, Green cotton-jersey sweater, White ribbed cotton socks,
165, by Ami 110, by Polo Ralph Lauren 70, by Thom Browne
Mark Kauffman/Getty | Laurence Harris/AP/Rex | Rex | John Dominis/Getty

Grey cashmere jumper, 730, Grey cotton sweatpants, 70, Bois du Portugal fragrance, Blue suede/white leather
byBrunello Cucinelli byJCrew 185/75ml, by Creed trainers, 75, by Adidas

Esquire | May 2017 109

Clockwise: Paul Newman
seeking out the shade,
California, 1959; Clint
Eastwood at home, Los
Angeles, June 1956;
JFKsailing off Newport,
Rhode Island, August
1963; Sean Connery with
Ursula Andress on the set
of Dr No, Jamaica, 1962

0 17 A n
2 Es
de q

ui
ui

re
g
c
Cl a s s i r
n E sq uire

guid
e
summ

e 20
e
A

st y l

7 1
17
0

A
n
2 quir
Es
e guide
 Trunks: neither too short nor too long (mid-thigh is fine), tailored with side
fastenings is ideal, elasticated acceptable if youre carrying some Brando
ballast. Colour is encouraged but keep the towelling polo blue, like JFK

At the beach

Blue cotton floral print beach bag, 1,210, by Herms

Navy cotton towelling polo shirt, 95, by Orlebar Brown

Don Ornitz/Rex | Michael Ochs/Getty | Robert Knudsen/John F Kennedy Library

Clockwise from top left: yellow polyamide-cotton swim shorts, 145, by Orlebar Brown. Blue polyamide-cotton
swim shorts, 160, by Vilebrequin. Black/white rectangular print nylon swim trunks, 160, by Dan Ward.
Bluenylon swim trunks, 55, by Ralph Lauren. White polyester floral print swim shorts, 50, by Tommy Hilfiger.
Red/white polyamide-cotton swim shorts, 145, by Frescobol Carioca Navy suede espadrilles, 395, by Bottega Veneta

Tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses, 270, by Oliver Peoples Matte black acetate sunglasses, 280, by Armani Tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses, 185, by Persol

Esquire | May 2017 111

 Clockwise: Marlon Brando
at home, Los Angeles, 1954;
Jean-Paul Belmondo at his
holiday villa, Saint-Tropez,
August 1964; Paul Newman
rides in a water taxi,
Venice, 1963; Miles Davis
outside jazz club Caf
Bohemia, New York, 1956

2 0 17
id e A
gu
e
n
r
ui

Es

Cl a s s
17 A n E s q

qu

s u m m ic
ire g u id e

e
st yle r
0
2

20
e

17
id A
n E sq uire gu
 As the sun goes down, the rules change, but theres no excuse for slacking.
The essentials? A slim-cut blazer, tapered trousers, a loose shirt, soft shoes
and, if youre Paul Newman, a sailors cap. (BTW, youre not Paul Newman)

After hours

Grey/pink cashmere-silk jacket, 1,860, Blue cotton shirt, 350, by Brioni

by Ermenegildo Zegna Navy wool trousers, 195, by Polo Ralph Lauren

Brown suede loafers, 270, by Tods

Marvin Koner/Getty | Murray Garrett/Getty | Patrice Habans/Getty | Archivio Cameraphoto Epoche/Getty | See Stockists page for details

White cotton trousers, 530, by Berluti

Black/blue suede woven penny loafers, 475, Blue/white striped cotton-seersucker White linen shirt, 90, by Hackett
by Jimmy Choo jacket, 150, by J Crew

Navy cotton grandad shirt, 95, by Oliver Spencer Pink linen-silk trousers, 330, by Canali Blue cotton-seersucker blazer, 545, by Richard James

Esquire | May 2017 113

 0 17 A n E s
2 q ui
e

id

re
s ic

gu

gu
Clasmer

sq uire

i d e 2 0 17
sum yle

nE
st

An
17
0 Es
qu
ire g u i d e 2

Dead
cool
How come the
most enduring
iconsof masculine
styleareall six
feetunder?
By

Mick Brown

114 Esquire | May 2017

Illustration by Hlne Builly
A few years ago, I had the pleasure of inter-
viewing Tom Ford about his lm A Single Man.
Ford, as we know, is a very stylish man, and an
amusing one, and the lm reects his fastid-
ious attention to detail. George Falconer, the
college professor and the single man of the
title, wears a suit made by Savile Row tailors
Anderson & Shepherd, Fords favourite tailor
(its an unusual college professor, one thinks,
who could aord that). Following the rms tra-
dition, Ford took the pains to have the name
of the ctional character and a ctional date
on which the suit was delivered George Fal-
coner: August, 1957 sewn on a label on the
inside pocket of the jacket where, of course,
absolutely no one would see it.
In the course of our discussion of all this
and much more, Ford, unable to constrain
his perfectionism a moment longer, suddenly
leaned across and undid the fourth button on
the cu of my suit a style aectation, he
explained, that shows everybody that your
buttons actually function. He then pointed out
to me that I was committing the major sarto-
rial infraction of wearing socks that were short
enough to reveal a millimetre of esh whenever
I crossed my legs. When I told him the socks
were from Marks & Spencer his silence was the
cold, savage kiss of fashion death.
Tom Ford is probably the most calculat-
edly stylish man in the world. He owns his
own fashion label. He lives in a Richard Neu-
tra house. He wears calf-length socks. But is
Tom Ford an exemplar of male style and cool?
To some people perhaps, but socks and cus
notwithstanding, not to me.
So who then are the true icons of male
style and cool? One thinks of the perennial
Steve McQueen, of course. Then theres Mar-
lon Brando, James Dean, Frank Sinatra, Miles
Davis, Muhammad Ali, and we mustnt forget
David Bowie. You will have noticed the pat-
tern... But let us turn to the living. Well theres...
erm. Ah... And what about...? OK, you choose.
Certain men have traditionally stood out as
stalwarts of style. From Hollywood: Humphrey
Bogart, Fred Astaire and, less often celebrated,
Gregory Peck, a model of discrete, expensive-
ly-cut good taste. One of Pecks favourite items
was a Huntsman cashmere-tweed jacket in dark
green-and-black dogtooth, made for him in 1960
from fabric woven on the Isle of Islay in the Inner
Hebrides. According to his son Anthony, Peck
would wear the tweed to night games at Dodger
Stadium, on walks in Central Park and down the
Champs-lyses. Well, who wouldnt?
From the world of letters, there is Tom
Wolfe and Gay Talese the Twin Towers of
The New Journalism both now well into
their eighties, and who for the last 60 years
seem to have been engaged in a private battle
to out-dandy each other: Wolfe in his ubiquitous
white suits, Talese with his wardrobe of immac-
ulately cut three-piece suits, his co-respondent
116
3 5
2 4 6
10 11
14
1 12
13
9 15
16
Still killing it
(previous spread)
1 Cary Grant. 2 JackKerouac. 3 John Fitzgerald
Kennedy. 4 Leonard Cohen. 5 Dean Martin.
6 Fred Astaire. 7 Paul Newman. 8 Humphrey Bogart.
9James Dean. 10 Muhammad Ali. 11 GregoryPeck.
12SteveMcQueen. 13 Frank Sinatra.
14 Marlon Brando. 15 Sammy Davis Jr. 16 Miles Davis
shoes and his complicated system of match-
ing fabrics, patterns and colours with seasons
and times of the day. We can do little but stand
in open-mouthed admiration at such relent-
less perfectionism and, if we were wearing
them, do our hats (of which Talese has acol-
lection of some 60 fedoras to chose from, kept
in their own storage space in his Manhattan
townhouse, shrink-wrapped and individually
labelled: Bogota, 1976 and so on).
Thinking of the world of rock, there is really
only one place to start. And stop. There is an
arresting picture from the late Sixties that
shows Mick Jagger and Keith Richards at an
airport, with Richards girlfriend of the time,
Anita Pallenberg. Jagger is wearing avelvet
jacket, a white shirt (perhaps its ivory) with
arued front and cus, a long scarf thrown
carelessly around his neck (that Aristide Bru-
ant poster look that was so popular in the Six-
ties). Even the magazine he is carrying is astyle
accessory, Paris Match with Johnny Hallyday,
the French Elvis, on the cover.
Richards is wearing a funereal overcoat,
afur stole on his shoulders of the kind worn by
eccentric Park Avenue heiresses in Weegee pho-
tographs, snakeskin boots, precisely the kind of
look that would attract a girl like Pallenberg
who, draped in velvet and furs, looks like $10m.
All three a crucial detail are wearing wide-
brimmed fedora hats. Its a look that denes a
particular kind of renegade cool, the archetypal
style template of sex, drugs and rock n roll,
much imitated but never surpassed, but now
fixed irrevocably at a moment in time, as
archaic in its own way as atop hat and spats.
7
8
Keith, of course, today still looks like Keith,
with his deaths-head ring, rasta-coloured
headbands and spangled star shirts, the pan-
tomime costume of an old rock n roll vaudevil-
lian. Its a look that screams, dont try this at
home, kids, because nobody else in the world
could wear it without looking as if they were
trying to be Keith. But looking at the Stones
now, what is apparent is what many of us have
long believed, that for all those years we were
looking at the wrong man, and that the cool-
est person in the band was not Keith at all but
the quiet geezer sitting at the back of the stage,
drummer Charlie Watts. I spied him recently,
late at night at Gatwick airport, a small, elderly
man decanted from easyJet, dressed in an
overcoat and carrying an overnight bag, pass-
ing unrecognised across the concourse, yet
possessed of an inimitable style and bearing.
I grew up in an age when the exemplars of
manly virtue were brilliantined sportsmen, or
war heroes. People like Guy Gibson VC, DFC
and Bar, DSO and Bar, the rst commanding
ocer of the RAFs 617 Squadron, later immor-
talised in the lm The Dambusters, and who
died in a September 1944 plane crash when he
was just 26. Gibson smoked a pipe and had a
pet black labrador dog he named Nigger, a fact
which, bizarrely, no-one at the time seemed to
think the least bit odd or oensive. This, one
was led to believe, was the kind of man a boy
should aspire to be: noble, brave, self-sacric-
ing and utterly conventional in outlook and
demeanour. And then along came The Rolling
Stones so who represents manhood now?
The most interesting masculine symbol in
recent times has been Don Draper, the anti-
hero of Mad Men. Much of the appeal of that
series lay in its depiction of an altogether more
reckless, unsanitised and unbuttoned era.
The endless chain of cigarettes, the industrial
quantities of liquor, the cavalier treatment of
women there is something thrillingly trans-
gressive about Draper, and thats before weve
even begun to consider the square-jawed good
looks, the classic Brooks Brothers suits and
sports jackets, ties and pocket squares, the
London Fog raincoat. One of the most arrest-
ing things about Mad Men is that the series
Esquire | May 2017

made no attempt to soften its central character,
to make him a paragon of progressive attitudes
in a sea of chauvinism and bad behaviour. In
an age when men are constantly under siege for
being sexist, or being told to check their privi-
lege, or to get in touch with their inner feelings,
Draper crashes through other peoples lives like
a bulldozer, keeping a lid on his feelings until
they threaten to burst.
Draper represents a particular archetype of
masculinity; the Type A personality, driven,
professional, in control. But the carapace of
smooth self-condence and the immaculate
style cant disguise the mess of the man under-
neath. Jon Hamm, the actor who plays Draper,
once expressed surprise at the number of peo-
ple over the years whove told him, I want to
bejust like Don Draper. Im like, You want be an essential part of every young mans rite
to be a miserable drunk? I dont think you
wantto be anything like that guy. You want to
be like the guy on a poster maybe, but not the
actual guy.
For many, Steve McQueen is the para-
gon of cool masculinity. McQueen liked Har-
rington jackets, chunky knitwear and desert
boots. You would search high and wide to
nd a picture of him in a suit. He did not have
style but what he had, in spades, was cool.
Reform school and a stint in the US Marines
had endowed McQueen with an air of tough-
ness and self-containment. He loved fast cars,
motorcycles and aeroplanes. He was a lim-
ited actor but his best-known roles suggested
he was his own man and nobody elses, some-
one who was never going to be told what to do
by anybody. We admire the Steve McQueen in
Bullitt (1968). But as is the case with all actors,
we never had the opportunity to get close
enough to know whether wed have admired
the man playing the role.
As we know, style has little to do with fash-
ion. Nothing ages faster than fashion; style
lasts forever. And one of the problems in try-
ing to dene who are todays icons of cool and
style is that fashion has taken over. Nowadays,
it is almost a mandatory requirement for any
male figure of distinction and achievement
to be signed up as a gurehead for this fash-
Getty
ion brand or an ambassador for that one. The
Esquire | May 2017
reason Idris Elba, or Colin Farrell, or pretty
much any actor you care to name, always looks
good in magazines is because the fashion edi-
tor has styled them that way.
And death oers no protection. Barbour
International had an SS 16 Steve McQueen
Collection, a powerful compilation that cele-
brates an iconic gure in history but that, one
suspects, the famous biker jacket notwithstand-
ing, McQueen himself would never have worn.
Particularly T-shirts with his own image plas-
tered on the front.
Would Marlon Brando, Frank Sinatra or
Muhammad Ali have shilled for fashion labels?
Its hard to believe it.
One of my earliest literary heroes and
I still maintain reading On the Road should
model of cool? Really? Really? If we want to be
of passage was Jack Kerouac. I suspect few
people cared less about how he dressed than
Kerouac but that was not enough to save him,
in 1993, from being co-opted by Gap Inc in an
image of him, licensed from his estate, promot-
ing chinos under the tag Kerouac wore kha-
kis. Of course, what Gap was trying to do was
make a connection between their (mass-pro-
duced) chinos and the celebration of free-think-
ing individuality that the Beats in general,
and Kerouac in particular, were perceived to
embody: mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be
saved, desirous of everything at the same time,
as Kerouac wrote.
The Gap advert was a curious fullment of
a prophesy Kerouac himself had made, writing
in a Playboy essay in June 1959 about the way
that Beat style and manners would inevitably
be swept up in the restless tide of fashion, with
smooth professionals coming out nattily attired
in Brooks Brothers jean-type tailoring and
sweater-type pull-ons, in other words, its a sim-
ple change in fashion and manners, just a history
crust... Beat comes out, actually, of old American
whoopee and it will only change a few dresses
and pants and make chairs useless in the living
room. Kerouac also wrote, great things are not
accomplished by those who yield to trends and
fads and popular opinion. I dont think he was
writing about the width of a lapel or the drape of
a jacket, but the same principle applies.
Birth of the cool:
everlasting exemplars
of male style
(from far left)
JFK, FrankSinatra, Paul Newman,
James Dean, Muhammad Ali,
SteveMcQueen, Marlon Brando,
JackKerouac, Humphrey Bogart,
Gregory Peck, Miles Davis,
Fred Astaire, LeonardCohen
The photograph of Kerouac in Gaps ad was
taken on the streets of New York, at around the
time Kerouac wrote those words, a time when
he was battling alcoholism, disillusioned and
embittered by being fted as the king of the
Beats a moniker he, of course, hated. In
the end, no amount of cool, no amount of style
could save him. Kerouac died in 1969 aged 47,
a broken man.
So, where do we look now? There are
unquestionably stylish people to be found. In
the world of acting, there is George Clooney,
aman who in his leisurely, unostentatious way
oozes class. And people speak admiringly of
Ryan Goslings wardrobe. David Beckham is
anice man, Im sure, and an admirable ambas-
sador for the beautiful game. But an icon and
perverse about this, my vote in the football-
ing world would go to Jrgen Klopp, with his
accident-prone spectacles, his shocking dental
work and his standard-issue kit sponsors track-
suit; no magazine on earth is ever going to ask
him to model Prada or Burberry, but there is
something delightfully singular about Klopp;
and is there a football fan in the country right
now who does not secretly wish he was manag-
ing their team? And what about Grayson Perry,
a man of wit, intelligence and commendable
self-assurance, who can brush up nicely when
the occasion demands it, although the brightly
coloured appliqud frock and Little Bo Beep
shoes is not a look to suit every man.
Surely, surely, there must be someone still
among us who ts the bill, a model of sarto-
rial style and masculinity that any man can
aspire to. And then it came to me. An artist,
a poet and a ladies man (notwithstanding
thefact he once recorded an album declaring
the death of that appellation). A man of courtly
manners and bearing, of erudition and wis-
dom. Afamous blue raincoat. An adherence
to the dark suit, which he wore every day, even
if he was only planning on a little house clean-
ing. And a fedora. Leonard Cohen, of course.
A living exemplar. And then, as I sat down
towrite this, he too passed. Buried, no doubt
in a suit. I just hope the fourth cuff button
wasundone.
117
Behind the banter
Illustration by

Seth Armstrong
Acclaimed novelist and lifelong
football fan Ross Raisins latest
work of ction is set in the world
of Englands lower leagues, an
obsessively documented but
almost entirely closed community.
What Raisin discovered in
researching his new book makes
uncomfortable reading for
anyone seeking todefend the
reputation of ournationalgame

There is a football dressing room game,

which goes like this: a squad sits on benches
around the room to form an audience, and two
players are picked out. Player one walks over to
where player two sits, and when he reaches him
he pulls down his own pants and puts his penis
into player twos mouth. The joke is whether
or not he gets an erection. There are, I believe,
variations on this game, and in my imagination
Ihave been through plenty of them: both play-
ers are naked, and the loser is the one who gets
aroused rst; everyone has their eyes closed and
mouths open surprise! or, that everyone is
naked, and the funny part is the spectacle of
waiting for audience cocks to sprout, at random,
like dawn mushrooms pushing through the soil.
Any way you look at it, there is a baseline
homophobia and repressed fear going on here
that puts you in mind of a Fifties boarding
school, or an army barracks, a prison.
Football is a closed world. We all know that.
More words are spoken and written about foot-
ball dull, platitudinous words, the same words
season after season than any other subject
Ican think of. And we listen to all this super-
cial football chat, participate in it, at the same
time as we take for granted that ugly, retrograde
things probably go on behind closed doors.
We have very little idea what kind of people
footballers actually are, because all we ever see
is the pantomime act of the Premier League.
But there has never been a more important time
to try and gure out who the humans behind
the masks actually are, and when shocking
events occur like the Ched Evans or Adam John-
son sexual oence cases, or when deplorable
behaviour comes to light such as the allegations
of historical child abuse within clubs and sub-
sequent attempts at cover up to understand
more of the hidden culture that they belong to.
For the last ve years, as I have researched
and written a novel set in the world of football,
that thought has been at the forefront of my
mind. It has not been easy. Practically, because

119
of those closed doors, and also because, despite
my unease at many of the things I have heard
and seen and imagined, I love football. I am
a football supporter. Some of my lifes most
exquisite moments of joy, release, have occurred
inside football grounds. So I have become hyper-
aware just how little I have ever concerned
myself about what goes on o the pitch, turn-
ing a blind eye to the grubby reality in order to
enjoy the show.
My novel, A Natural, is about a young foot-
baller released by his boyhood Premier League
club, who then signs for a lower division side in
atown that he has never heard of. As he strug-
gles to reconcile his old dreams with the reality
of living alone in a hotel and nding himself on
a League Two subs bench, he begins to realise
as well that the person he might really be is one
that he does not understand, or like a person
who, in a world outside of football, would prob-
ably identify themselves as being gay.
The institution of football is a fortress of
imposed order. Everywhere you look you will see
the pervasive exertion of control. From the side-
line tiger-whipping of the under-10 team right
through to the shiny superstructure of the Pre-
mier League, everything must be simplied, sta-
tistical, made conventional. The idolisation of
the individual is just for show. There is no room
for a real individual especially if that per-
son is a threat to the norm. And if a footballer
does show signs of abnormal individuality, he
will usually be taken down. Remember when
Graeme Le Saux was lambasted for mention-
ing that he read The Guardian? He was a pussy.
A queer. (Although the insults didnt mean any-
thing, of course; they were just banter.)
I was told often during my research about
this discomfort with difference. I was sur-
prised, in fact, at how open the players Ispoke
to were in talking about it when nobody
else was listening. Which is why, when I went
inside clubs at dierent levels of the pyramid,
from the Championship down to the Isthmian
League, I learned to make sure to have those
conversations one-to-one, with the promise
ofanonymity.
I met with a player Ill call BP, a midelder, in
his clubs training ground canteen. My own lazy
stereotyping had not prepared me for how artic-
ulate he would be. When I told him this, he said
that he holds back his real personality when he is
among the group, and that he thinks lots of play-
ers are much smarter and more sensitive than
they let on, but they dont express that side of
themselves because they dont want to stand out.
BP: Emotional things, or awkward things,
dont get talked about. Except with banter.
The banters just there to hide themselves: Im
laughing at you but actually I care about you.
Guys nd it dicult to communicate with each
other. Theres a persona you want to keep to,
and the last thing you want is to look dierent.
120
There is a baseline
homophobia and
repressed fear
going on here that
puts you in mind of
aFifties boarding
school, or an army
barracks, a prison
Everyone even uses the exact same terminol-
ogy, the same vocab. They say Im struggling
but they dont say what they really mean. Its
just: Im struggling.
What underlies all of this, of course, the ele-
phant in the dressing room, the canteen, the
boardroom, the terrace, the television studio,
is performance anxiety; the performance of
being a man.
It was a fear of the queer that gave rise
to institutionalised male team sport in Brit-
ain in the first place. The industrial revolu-
tion took fathers and older brothers away from
the home and into the factory. Young boys, as
a consequence, were spending more time with
their mothers in the private sphere and so were
at risk, so it was believed, of becoming unnatu-
rally feminised. Or inverted (Sigmund Freuds
term for gay). The organisation of football and
rugby teams was an overt attempt, by the patri-
archy, to get society to man up.
And they made a pretty good st of it. One-
hundred-and fty-years on, that philosophy is
still woven into the fabric of mens sport: being
one of the lads, not being soft, winning at all
costs, legitimising violence, ostracising the
weak, doing away with emotions, words.
The performance of masculinity on the eld
can be electrifying, certainly. Watching an ath-
lete push his machined body to the limit of its
capabilities, desperate to overcome his oppo-
nent, to win. But the performance of a mascu-
line ideal o the pitch upholds a culture that
lacks in empathy and can be big on bullying.
There is a manager (not much loved by Brad-
ford City fans like me) who is particularly infa-
mous for his caveman machismo. I could ll
this whole piece with anecdotes about him, but
Ill plump for one: the half-time team talk when
he abused his rock hard (on the outside) senior
centre-half so vehemently that he made him cry,
and then sent him out on loan.
The misuse of masculinity as a weapon is
endemic within football. You are not one of the
boys, part of the club, until you have proved your-
self a man. Which may well involve being humil-
iated for not being man enough. Sometimes this
can be in jest, as banter. Look at any football
internet message board and you will observe
how the banter bubble of the dressing room is
replicated on forums, with insults, threats, lev-
elled at other posters and players alike. And
sometimes it can be physically malicious.
The initiation ceremony is regularly a rite of
passage for the young player, or the new signing.
An Eighties initiation called the glove came
to public attention a couple of years ago when
a former Stoke City trainee took the then rst-
team goalkeeper Peter Fox to court for a claim
(from which Fox was later cleared) of historic
sexual assault. The ceremony allegedly involved
ayoung player being held down on a table while
somebody smeared Deep Heat on the nger of
a goalkeeping glove and thrust it up his anus.
Clubs up and down the country braced them-
selves for the result of the case going the other
way, because they were well aware that it could
have led to a deluge of nancial payouts.
There is a scene in my book based on another
initiation I heard about, in which a player is held
down (a recurrent feature of the initiation cere-
mony, being held down) and his genitals rubbed
in boot polish. The most dicult situation in the
novel for me to imagine, however, was one that
I knew about anecdotally from people at several
clubs, including from a director. The Christmas
party silver platter. A silver tray is passed around
until it is piled high with notes, which are then
used to pay one of the mysterious women who
have been invited to the party to go up on stage
with whichever young player has been strong-
armed up there with her, and have sex with him,
fellate him, for everyone elses amusement.
How much of this still goes on, I dont fully
know, and I suspect, I hope, that the increase
in phone technology and social media has
causedthe raucousness behind the VIP cur-
tain to lessen.
The public image, at least, of the football-
ers Christmas party has these days become one
of expensive fancy dress. I sometimes marvel,
when I look at those photos of squads dressed up
in high-end costumes of gures from childrens
stories Harry Potter, the Teenage Mutant
Ninja Turtles, Snow White (for the banter)
at the high-quality stock that must be available
in the fancy dress shops of Bradford and Fleet-
wood and Oldham.
It makes sense that footballers have bought
in so wholeheartedly to the concept of fancy
dress. There is a reassuring simplicity to it: you
can take a break from the performance of your-
self for a night, yet stay in rank. The hierar-
chical structure of the squad is preserved, just
with silly faces on. So the centre halves can be
He-Man and the Hulk, and the team joker can
come dressed as a strawberry.
Esquire | May 2017
Youth team players learn early on that there
is a strict social order, a template of manhood
to t themselves to. Tiers of mini-me squads
watch and learn from the big boys of the rst
team, following in their shadow, cleaning up
after them, giving up their place in the canteen
queue for them. They look to the authority of
their coaches, and the implicit authority of ful-
ly-edged men, to know how to live their lives.
As one manager put it, If the gaer says run
around naked and headbutt a wall, theyll do it.
I heard about another manager who used
to make apprentices go out into their lodging
house garden in the middle of the night, where
they would stand, naked, on upturned buckets
and then get hosed down by him while shouting
out, I am not shy! I am not shy! I am not shy!
Until local residents lmed it and threatened to
go to the police.
The eect of creating such a cauldron of
masculinity training is that the behaviour
of youth players can often be more extreme
than that of the seniors. Banter and bullying
can easily turn into even darker behaviour
and, at worst, into outright brutality. Some-
body who works as a welfare ocer for football
clubs, giving guidance to young players, related
an account of this kind of aggression at its most
upsetting: an instance of hysterical virility
within the youth team of a now Premier League
club that resulted in the gang sexual assault of
one boy with a broom handle.
Footballers are brought up inside a bubble.
A bubble inside which there are no women: the
canteen cooks, if theyre lucky, maybe one or
two other members of support sta. Very rarely
do women hold positions of power inside foot-
ball clubs. As for girls their own age, clubs would
prefer their boys to have as little to do with them
as possible because that way, they fear, lies trou-
ble. The life of a youth team footballer is usu-
ally one of being shepherded from place to place
lodging house to training ground, train-
ing ground to college to study two afternoons
aweek for your BTEC in sports science and
being told constantly where to be, what to do.
Run round that pitch seven times. Clean that
senior players boots. Headbutt that wall.
So, when that youth player reaches adult-
hood he is still recognisably an adolescent,
because hes not gone through a natural process
of guring out how to be a person in the world
outside of football. A world which, for the vast
majority, they will be released into as soon as
they fail to get that dreamed-of senior contract.
I have a friend who is a TV and radio pre-
senter and often goes on event days with ex-play-
ers. He went on one such golng holiday (he has
a dicult life, this friend) with one of Englands
best players of the Nineties, who, despite hav-
ing travelled abroad probably hundreds of times
before, was paralysed by being in the airport. He
didnt know how to get on aight without being
told what to do.
Esquire | May 2017
I remember watching a club website video
of the former Bradford City manager Phil Par-
kinson being interviewed in his oce. (I won-
der sometimes whether writing my novel has
in fact simply been an excuse to nally ooad
the 30 years of trivial crap with which I, like all
football supporters, have clogged my brain.) In
the background of the video you can just make
out the nes board: Friday night meal in hotel.
Not to leave table until RR GJ NA say so. 25.
If you treat a grown man like a child for long
enough, what you will have on your hands is
achild. A child, however, who may feel an over-
whelming need to prove he is a man.
In October last year, the former Sheeld
United striker Ched Evans, who now plays for
League One Chesterfield, was acquitted in
aretrial of the rape of a 19-year-old woman.
What the case had exposed was the team shar-
ing of young women often with other play-
ers lming that is widespread within foot-
ball. A gangbang culture in which the woman
is an object of the footballers need to perform
manliness (and, of course, to have some banter
at the expense of anybody whose performance
is not up to it). One player told me that for some
in his squad, the rst thing they do if they bring
a woman back, without ever thinking to ask the
woman, is text one or two of the others to come
and join him.
These are displays of misogyny, demonstra-
tions of male power born out of powerlessness.
The fully-grown versions of the boys on buck-
ets, but now using a woman, usually an intox-
icated, vulnerable woman, to express the same
thing: I am not shy! I am not weak! I am not
a pussy! And what I denitely am not is gay.
I nd much of the discourse about homo-
sexuality and football frustratingly shallow.
The same words get repeated over and over.
We hear the blithe, unqualied statistic that if
one in 40 men in the UK is gay, that must mean
there must be one gay man in every Premier
We have very
littleidea what
kindof people
footballers actually
are, because all
weever see is the
pantomime act of
thePremier League
League squad. As if its that simple. As if noth-
ing outside of the Premier League counts. As
if all of the young men who are not straight
are self-aware enough to understand that
aboutthemselves.
This is one of the main interests of the novel:
the shame and self-loathing that comes from
telling yourself that you are abnormal, even if
you cannot fully understand, or admit to your-
self, why. As a footballer, you will have lived your
whole life being educated into the idea that the
world boils down to a binary split between suc-
cess and failure. Speak to any player for a length
of time and you will sense that fear of failure. It
is deeply embedded: a fear of letting down your
teammates, your manager, the fans, and then
being publicly shamed for doing so.
We go along with the belief that victory is the
most exciting thing about football. But read any
back pages and you realise that the real driver of
salacious interest is failure. Downfall. England
managers, the England team, Wayne Rooney.
And in a hypermasculine world, where being
one of the boys, not standing out from the group,
is fundamental, it is easy to see how telling your
teammates that you feel confused and afraid
about your sexual orientation might equate to
the biggest failure imaginable.
It is not dicult to comprehend, either, how
for a young player brought up in this macho
environment, never encouraged or shown how
to express emotions, words girl stu the
fact that you have been sexually abused by your
coach might be a tough one to open up about.
The kind of bravery emotional, not phys-
ical; individual, not collective that it would
require to do that is not the kind of bravery that
most young players possess. So you can imagine
the heavy load of shame and failure that the
victims of child abuse by football coaches have
carried around with them for decades.
At least its all out in the open now, though,
right? After those incredibly courageous steps by
the rst few victims to come forward, the ood-
gates were opened and the tide of revelations
and media coverage facilitated by the urgent
will of football clubs and the FA to come clean
and tell us everything that has been uncovered
by their independent inquiries well, that has
just continued unstoppably, hasnt it?
How often have you heard the scandal dis-
cussed in the media since last year? How many
times have you heard football clubs opening up
about it? The institution of football has, so far,
managed to do exactly what it does best: use
power, money and closed doors to make sure
that the issue, like all the other issues that foot-
ball needs to address, is not being talked about.
So lets talk about them. Lets start having
anew conversation about football. One that is
not simply, how grumpy does Pep Guardiola
look in an interview after beating Burnley; one
that instead regards managers and players not
as cartoon characters but as real people.
121
122
Illustration by Cristiano Rinaldi
Esquire | May 2017 123
The headquarters of Planetary
Resources sits in a business park in the city of
Redmond, Washington, 15 miles east of Seat-
tle. This is Microsoft country, and the lobby is
just like that of any tech start-up. Theres the
obligatory life-sized statue of Boba Fett to greet
you, a pool table, beer on tap, vintage arcade
games, and a group of 20- and 30-somethings
working on laptops and nurturing stubble.
Given the companys stated mission landing
probes on asteroids tumbling wildly through
space and mining them for natural resources
with solar-powered robots in nearly zero grav-
ity the place is remarkably unremarkable.
Until, that is, you get to the bright, glass-walled,
antiseptic space in the centre of the oce where
masked engineers in white overalls, white surgi-
cal masks and hair nets pad softly around two
tiny satellites.
Everyone is going about their business as
if this were not all completely insane. It seems
almost unkind to be here, like watching the den-
izens of some asylum scratch out intricate pat-
terns on the oor of their cells. But no one seems
to have told any of them. And when you spend
afew minutes talking to Chris Lewicki, the com-
panys youthful-looking, 43-year-old president
and CEO, you start to wonder if you might be
the crazy one.
It helps that Lewicki has an impeccable sci-
entic rsum. Having served as ight direc- be built in space. He calculated that the aster-
tor on Nasas Mars Exploration Rover missions
(ajob he landed before he turned 30), Lewicki
knows the special challenges of transporting
aremote-controlled robot 300m miles and then
getting it to do a whole bunch of science on an
alien surface. I know how hard space is, and its
harder than I think, he says. But I also know
its possible.
Lewicki larded his board of advisors with
MIT physicists, Nasa scientists, retired generals,
and, for good measure, Avatar director James
Cameron, who has become a sort of patron saint
of the unbelievable. More impressive still, the
companys early investors include Larry Page,
the co-founder of Google; Bryan Johnson, the
founder of Braintree; Tencent, a Chinese tech
giant; and a bunch of venture-capital groups not
normally considered easy marks. Last year they
collectively invested $21m in the company.
Although it hopes to be mining asteroids
within 10 to 15 years, Planetary Resources wants
to prot from the steps along the way. First o it
plans to create a constellation of small satellites
like the two I saw in the clean room. Little big-
ger than a family-size cereal box, these cube-
sats will eventually be used to look for the right
sorts of asteroids to mine. But to begin with,
their sensors will be trained on Earth, where
they can process infrared and hyperspectral
data that can be beamed to whoever wants it,
all at an aordable price. Think a personalised,
constantly updated Google Earth. Oil compa-
nies could inspect pipelines and discover leaks.
124
Land managers could spot forest fires. You
could probably even get them to check up on
your grow operation while youre on vacation.
Its like the space programme. We set out
to put a man on the moon, but in the process we
created so many valuable things, Lewicki says.
If were very successful, well achieve parts of
our mission and vision. If were merely success-
ful, we might be a profitable business doing
interesting things in space.
Quick word about asteroids. Those pota-
to-shaped boulders hurtling through our solar
system at 60,000mph are, according to scien-
tists, rich in water, iron and precious metals.
These resources could be used for building
space structures, fuelling passing spaceships,
or simply blinging out your space suit with plat-
inum trim. The website asterank.com, an aster-
oid-ranking database bought by Planetary
Resources in 2013, has estimated the poten-
tial value of more than 600,000 of them. Some,
thanks to their size and proximity to Earth, are
thought to be worth more than $100trn. These
near-Earth asteroids, or NEAs, are the prize.
The goal of turning a prot in space is a rela-
tively recent one. Dr John S Lewis was one early
advocate who literally wrote the book on aster-
oid mining. In Mining the Sky, Lewis argued
that whole cities and life-support systems could
from scratch. The pharmaceutical industry has
oid belt between Mars and Jupiter has enough
resources to support several tens of quadril-
lions of people.
I was aiming the book at teenagers, says
Lewis, who is now 75 years old. People who
have open minds, who havent already settled
upon a groove. One of his pupils at the Uni-
versity of Arizona was Chris Lewicki. Lewis
was originally courted by his former student to
work at Planetary Resources, but negotiations
soured. They would pay me a pittance and
use my name, and would I please shut up and
not bother them about detail, Lewis says. He
Thanks to their size
and proximity to Earth,
someasteroids are
thought to beworth
more than$100trn
is nowthe chief scientist at Deep Space Indus-
tries, the other major player in the eld. A rep-
resentative for Planetary Resources says simply,
Werespect Dr Lewis and his body of work.
Nasa is not interested in making money,
ever, Lewicki says. People dont go to work for
Nasa because its a good job. They go to explore
the galaxy and expand our knowledge. Aster-
oid minings big-money investors and promise
of untold riches make it particularly attractive
to scientists used to fighting over the scraps
of Nasas government funding. Sara Seager,
a world-renowned astrophysicist, joined the
advisory board of Planetary Resources in hopes
of making enough money to independently
finance her extremely expensive quest for
another Earth. Such entrepreneurial tendencies
are typical of the burgeoning industry known
as NewSpace.
Less hierarchical, less bureaucratic, and
less traditionally punctuated than Old Space,
NewSpace features smaller teams often work-
ing on reusable technology with o-the-shelf
parts. Planetary Resources, for example, is
currently testing a component for one of its
satellites that is normally used in hospitals
for intravenous-uid regulation. Its reliable
because someones life depends on it, Lewicki
says. When Nasa wanted something like this,
they hired a team of 200 engineers to design it
already done that for us. Were just stealing.
Elon Musk laid the foundation for
NewSpace with SpaceX, his rocket company,
founded in 2002. Nasa now contracts out to
SpaceX its cargo-resupply missions to the Inter-
national Space Station, and the company has an
estimated valuation of $15bn. The better Elon
does, Meagan Crawford, the COO of DSI, says,
the better the whole industry does.
Dick Rocket yes, thats his real name
the CEO of NSG, a NewSpace analyst rm, esti-
mates that the annual worldwide revenue of
NewSpace ventures is between $5bn and $10bn,
Film-maker turned space advisor James Cameron
 and predicts that there will be 10,000 NewSpace
companies created in the next 10 years.
It wasnt just Musk. Je Bezos, the founder
of Amazon and the owner of The Washington
Post, has similarly grandiose plans. He founded
his own NewSpace rocket company, Blue Ori-
gin, in 2000. The worlds fourth-richest man,
Bezos has said that he wants millions of peo-
ple living and working in space.
On the one hand, these pioneers want to be
seen as pragmatic businessmen; on the other,
their business plans are filled with apoca-
lyptic visions straight out of a re-and-brim-
stone tent revival. After announcing last year
that he wanted to send a million people to
Mars toestablish a self-sustaining city, Musk
soughtto reassure the crowd. I dont have an
immediate doomsday prophecy, he said. But
he also noted that history suggests there will
be some doomsday event.
For any of these NewSpace visions to
become reality, asteroid mining has to be a suc-
cess. It seems to be the only way of physically
and economically sustaining any prolonged
exploration or occupation of space. The cost
of carrying fuel, water and building materials
into space from Earth (around $5,000 a pound
on aSpaceX rocket) is too great to be cost eec-
tive. Once mined, asteroids could be turned into
the equivalent of gas stations and timberyards
for outbound spacecraft.
An international treaty signed at the height
of the Space Race prohibits nations from claim-
ing ownership of celestial bodies but made
no mention of private individuals or corpo-
rations. Cue the US Space Act of 2015, a bill
that made it lawful for any American citizen
to keep whatever they dug out of an asteroid.
For the rst time in history, a government was
officially allowing its citizens to plunder the
heavens. An early version contained language
drafted by asteroid miners, who lobbied heav-
ily for the nal bill, suggesting that acompany
could call dibs on an asteroid just by showing
Getty
Amazon owner Je Bezos
Esquire | May 2017
reasonable activity. This could mean that
a company with a eet of satellites like the
ones Planetary Resources is developing could
simply point them at any asteroid they like and
claim legal rights to it. This language was even-
tually removed and, for the record, Planetary
Resources strongly denies that this is what
it plans to do. Already, however, some space
lawyers are working out loopholes to exploit,
arguing that if an asteroid is small enough to
be moved by a spacecraft as Nasas Aster-
oid Redirect Mission is set to do it should no
longer be classed a celestial body and there-
fore could be appropriated in its entirety.
So far, however, these visions have been
exactly that: visions. Planetary Resources has
put only one test cubesat into Earths orbit, expecting a return. But this has not stopped
after one was destroyed in a launch explosion.
There has been nothing close to a private aster-
oid landing yet. What there has been is hype,
and lots of it. Jim Logan, a 22-year Nasa veteran
and co-founder of the Space Enterprise Insti-
tute, a nonprot analyst rm, warns against
space cadets in the industry who look too far
ahead. Its not that theyre hyping the possi-
bility, he says. Theyre guilty of simplifying
thesolutions.
Of course, nobody wants to be like The New
York Times, which published a 1920 editorial
stating that it was a physical impossibility for
arocket to function in space. But has any busi-
ness in the history of the world started with such
faraway objectives? Everyone involved believes
so fervently in what hasnt happened yet that it
can drive you a little crazy. But nding a doubter
in the NewSpace community is like trying to
nd a tell on a poker pros face.
Admittedly they do have some reason for
optimism, largely thanks to the eorts of those
working in Old Space. In 2001, Nasa landed the
Near Shoemaker probe on an asteroid, while
the Japanese space agency managed to bring
less than a milligram of asteroid material back
to earth in 2010 aboard the Hayabusa. In 2014,
SpaceX founder Elon Musk
the European Space Agencys Rosetta landed on
a comet an icy variation on an asteroid but
it bounced on the surface, fell into a ssure and
failed to do any drilling.
Late last year, Nasa launched Osiris-Rex,
a spacecraft named after the Egyptian god of
the dead, to visit an asteroid and return up to
two kilograms of material to Earth by 2023. An
even more ambitious billion-dollar proposal is
its aforementioned Asteroid Redirect Mission,
which seeks to grab a multi-ton boulder o an
asteroid and place it in orbit around the moon
although funding is proving more elusive for
that one.
Of course, these missions were all bank-
rolled by governments, not private investors
the asteroid miners from attracting capital from
some unusual quarters.
Whats the only country in the world
beside Mexico with the letter x in its name?
Need a clue? Its also home of the worlds lead-
ing provider of balls for ballpoint pens. Still
nothing? The answer is Luxembourg, a land-
locked sliver of Europe slightly smaller than
Rhode Island that has a well-earned reputation
for being the most boring country in the world.
You can imagine the surprise when Luxem-
bourg announced last year that it had become
a major investor in asteroid mining.
The man behind this unexpected bid for
intergalactic glory is tienne Schneider, the
deputy prime minister of Luxembourg as well
as its minister of the economy, minister of inter-
nal security, and minister of defence. Sitting in
his oce eyrie atop an unprepossessing block
in Luxembourg City, Schneider explains the
decision with all the air you would expect of
a Mitteleuropean bureaucrat. Originally one of
Europes largest providers of steel, Luxembourg
rebranded itself as a nancial hub when the
mining economy collapsed in the Seventies. At
the time, people thought a nancial centre in
Google co-founder Larry Page
125
 Star ores:
an artists rendering
of aDeep Space
Industries mining
settlement. To date,
the company has not
launched a single
satellite orspacecraft
Luxembourg makes no sense, Schneider says.
But we did it and now were quite successful.
This is an understatement: Luxembourg has the
highest per capita GDP in the world. (The US is
eighth, the UK 21st.)
Seeking to diversify once more, Luxembourg
has spent 25m for 10 per cent of Planetary
Resources. The country also signed a mem-
orandum of understanding with Deep Space
Industries. Around these two businesses Sch-
neider hopes to create a Luxembourgian Space
Agency, as well as a NewSpace investment fund.
We will not do research for the research alone.
We really want to do research that will have
adirect impact on the business development.
Unlike everyone else I met, Schneider has no
personal interest in space. He never watched the
Space Shuttle launches or hankered to become
an astronaut. He doesnt read science ction or
quote Star Wars. And while he believes asteroid
mining will attract other NewSpace business
to Luxembourg and eventually become amajor
industry in its own right, he is forthright that for
the time being his investment serves another
purpose. Now we are on the board of a US com-
pany, says Schneider. I met Je Bezos. I met
Larry Page. For Schneider, asteroid mining is
a terric networking opportunity.
A two-and-a-half-hour ight northwest of
Luxembourg lies an even tinier tax haven that
126
also wanted to jump on the NewSpace band-
wagon. It too was heralded as a farsighted
patron. But today its less a blueprint for suc-
cess than a cautionary tale.
The Isle of Man 30 miles long by 10 miles
wide, population 88,000 sits in the middle of
the Irish Sea like a lost apostrophe. Its not part
of Ireland, and its not really part of the United
Kingdom. The islands ag, three armoured legs
joined at the hip, bears the motto Whichever
way you throw it, it will stand, which seems
devoid of any deeper meaning beyond the ben-
ets of having three legs.
When you ask the lads at a local bar in the
islands mildewed capital of Douglas whether
they know anything about the space pro-
gramme, they shrug. Asteroid mining? one
says. Youre havin a laugh. If you want to for the benefits of extraplanetary free enter-
escape gravity they suggest Magnetic Hill,
amysterious stretch of road that cars roll up, in
seeming deance of natural law. Its a strange
place. And when Manannns Cloak the
thick sea fog that is said to hide the island from
unwanted visitors comes rolling in, you can
well imagine youre on another planet. West. (It sold one.) The businesses may not have
Chris Machin, the 72-year-old president of
the Jurby Transport Museum, which houses the
programmes remnants amid a bunch of vin-
tage buses and trams in an old aircraft hangar,
admits, My colleagues arent too keen on it. If it
doesnt have four wheels and 97 seats in it, they
begin to chunter.
At the museum, I squeeze by Model T Fords
and vintage Buicks, and then I see it: tucked
out of view between a Leyland double-decker
bus and an old Velocette racing bike is a pris-
tine cone-shaped space capsule in racing green,
festooned with the ags of the United States, the
United Kingdom, Russia and the Isle of Man.
This capsule, and a giant module from a Soviet
space station that sits under a tarp at the other
end of the island, are the property of a man
named Art Dula.
Dula is a larger-than-life character in the
annals of NewSpace, which is saying some-
thing. Back in the Seventies, he became one of
Americas rst space lawyers, a tireless booster
prise. Hes the literary executor to the estate of
legendary sci- author Robert Heinlein, and
was also a trailblazing space entrepreneur. In
1982, he helped launch the rst private US space
rocket, the Conestoga, and set up a company to
sell launches on Soviet rockets to buyers in the
been great successes, but Dula was way ahead
of the curve when it came to monetising the cos-
mos, and this made him something of a celebrity
in space-obsessed Houston home of Nasas

Mission Control Center during the Eighties.
However, none of these ventures were as auda-
cious as the plans he hatched on the Isle of Man
in the mid-Noughties.
Dula wanted to leverage his contacts in the
Russian and US space programmes to set up
asteroid-mining and space-tourism businesses
at precisely the moment that the Isle of Man
like Luxembourg today was looking to diver-
sify its economy away from nancial services.
With a nascent satellite industry already in
place, the Isle of Man was all too happy to host
Dulas company, Excalibur Almaz.
Dula planned to buy four reusable space
capsules and two massive spare Soviet
space-station modules. He hoped to use these
Russian cast-os to launch the rst private com-
mercial prospecting mission to an asteroid,
and to y wealthy earthlings around the moon.
It was an auspicious time to be seeking nan-
cial backers. Space tourism was on the worlds
front pages thanks to the Ansari XPrize compe-
tition, which awarded $10m to SpaceShip-One
for building the rst privately developed reusa-
ble manned spacecraft, and the nancial crisis
Deep Space Industries
of 2008 was still a few years o. Takafumi Horie,
a wealthy Japanese internet entrepreneur,
agreed to buy 75 per cent of Excalibur Almaz
for $49m. Dula found a minority investor on a
cruise ship. When the spacecraft were shipped
Esquire | May 2017
One eminent scientist
calculated that the
asteroid belt between
Mars and Jupiter has
enough resources to
support several tens of
quadrillions of people
to the Isle of Man and Dulas plans announced,
the tiny island was besieged by press and soon
ranked by Flight Ascend, a space-industry ana-
lyst, as the fourth most likely nation to land on
the moon, ahead of India.
Unfortunately, things began to go wrong
almost immediately. Dula blames the ground-
ing of the Space Shuttle in 2011 for destroying
his business model. Demand for the Russian
rockets quadrupled overnight. At the same time,
however, he was hit with two lawsuits from his
investors claiming that his sci- sales pitch was
a scam. One case was voluntarily withdrawn,
but he is ghting the other, bigger one brought
against him by Horie. Dula wont comment on
this except to say, New activities that can really
change the future in a big way are always misun-
derstood and risky. Horie, who has been con-
victed of stock fraud himself, says he will invest
whatever damages he is awarded in his own
NewSpace venture, Interstellar Technologies.
Craig Malisow, a reporter who covered the
saga for the Houston Press, has expressed skep-
ticism about Dulas optimistic projections. If its
true that, in space, no one can hear you scream,
he wrote in 2016, then in NewSpace, no one
can see your bullshit. Jim Logan prefers to put
Dulas failure down to overpromising.
Most people who know about Dulas ups and
downs are willing to give him the benet of the
doubt. Hes always been pushing the bounda-
ries of whats possible. But when does a vision-
ary become a con man?
Its worth asking because Art Dula has
numerous ties to the current crop of aster-
oid miners. One of his earliest customers was
Eric Anderson, the co-founder of Planetary
Resources, who paid Dula $200,000 for an
asteroid-mining feasibility study. Rick Tumlin-
son, a founder of Deep Space Industries, gave
Dula a Pioneer of NewSpace award through
his Space Frontier Foundation in 2010. And
Dula himself, in his role as literary executor to
the Heinlein estate, has personally presented
six-gure awards to Elon Musk, Je Bezos and
Peter Diamandis (the other co-founder of Plan-
etary Resources) in recognition of their accom-
plishments in commercial space activities.
I dont think anyone within that commu-
nity likes to be critical of anything, Malisow
says of this tangled web of NewSpace acquaint-
ances. And no one wants to speak openly even
if they do feel that way. So its incredibly easy
for people who are dreamers or just full of hot
air to stick around in perpetuity. He pauses to
nd just the right analogy. It becomes one giant
circle jerk.
Not everyone, however, is convinced that
there is gold in them hills. Martin Elvis, a sen-
ior astrophysicist at the Harvard-Smithsonian
Center for Astrophysics, published a 2014 paper
stating that there may be as few as 10 asteroids
that could be protably mined. I found the star-
ry-eyed nature of the [asteroid miners] a little too
much, he says. With the recent improvements
in rocket technology, he thinks that number
has since increased, but he remains skepti-
cal of the trillion-dollar appraisals. Determin-
ing the composition of an asteroid is largely
based on rudimentary spectroscopic readings
of whats onan asteroids surface, so any valu-
ation basedonsuch supercial data is a bit of
an assumption, Elvis says. He believes the tech-
nology to mine an asteroid is within reach, but
whether the economics will fall together or not,
I dont know. I hope they will.
Everyone I spoke to from NewSpace and
Old believes that asteroid minings techni-
cal challenges, while considerable, are solvable
through a mix of public and private innova-
tion. Some say the bugs could be worked out in
as few as 15 years. But the success of this enter-
prise depends on more than just eective equip-
ment. It requires a second leap of faith.
For asteroid mining to succeed, the practi-
tioners not only have to believe that the aster-
oids are ore-rich, and reachable, and that they
can be mined cost-eectively, and that no legal
obstructions crop up before they blast o; they
also have to believe in the Jetsonian visions of
Bezos and Musk. If in 15 years there are no Mar-
tian homesteaders, who will be their market?
Chris Lewicki believes such pessimism
shows a lack of vision. But the asteroid min-
ers go-to historical analogies the discovery
of the New World, the opening up of the fron-
tier cut both ways. Treasure ships sank and
were plundered, frontiersmen starved and were
scalped, some places were just too inhospitable
to settle, and thats not even considering the fact
that rockets go boom in a way a covered wagon
never could. As the asteroid miners raise more
funds and issue ever loftier pronouncements,
its enough to make you wonder whether were
witnessing the birth of a new gold rush, or the
search for a nonexistent El Dorado.
127
 Salvatore Ferragamo
Brown leather Tramezza derby shoes, 680

Photographs by

Ana Cuba

128
 Tods
Black leather
derby shoes, 415
Foot

Shoes to write home about this season notes

Esquire | May 2017 129
 Crockett & Jones
Tan suede chukka boots, 345

130
 Jimmy Choo
Blue woven suedepenny
loafers, 475

Esquire | May 2017 131

 Churchs
White leather trainers, 275

132
 Styling: Catherine Hayward and Nick Sullivan | Photographers assistant: John Cronin | See Stockists page for details

Esquire | May 2017

Giuseppe Zanotti
Black leather-suede-metal loafers, 805

133
Break from
thecrowd
in suits that say more:
with an unexpected
colour, a heathered
texture or a subtle stripe

Left: brown wool suit,

POA; white cotton
shirt, POA; green silk
tie, POA, all by
Versace. Stainless steel
4810 Chronograph on
black leather strap,
3,260, by Montblanc
Centre: grey wool suit,
600; navy silk tie, 65,
both by Boss. Blue
cottonshirt, 195, by
Turnbull& Asser
Right: blue striped
woolsuit, 1,260; white
cotton shirt, 235,
bothby Lanvin.
Paleblue printed silk
tie, 140, byHerms

134
 Photographs by

Dusan Reljin
Fashion by

Nick Sullivan

NOT

BUSINESS

AS

USUAL
These are, shall we say, interesting times.
Aneraof bigly disruptions. But the more
theworld shifts around us, the more we value
the strength of a simple, impeccably cut suit.
And now that top fashion houses turn them
outas reliably as heritage tailors, youre
boundto find a style that works for you

135
Get the edge
with a tie that makes
astatement

Navy wool suit, 2,600;

white cotton shirt, 370;
blue/red silk tie, 140,
allby Dior Homme

136 Esquire | May 2017

Play to your
strengths
in a checked suit that
commands the room

Charcoal checked
wool jacket, 1,560;
pale blue cotton shirt,
290; blue/white
dotted silk tie, 140;
charcoal checked wool
trousers, 430, all by
Ralph Lauren Purple
Label. Brown leather
tasselled loafers,
935,by JohnLobb.
Black cotton socks,
20, by Pantherella

137
Find a
common
thread
when pairing
asuit and tie.
Here, abold red
stripe energises
a thin check of
thesamecolour

Navy/white/red
pin-dot cotton
suit, 1,540; red/
navy/blue silk
tie, 140, both
by Gucci. White
cotton shirt, 270,
by Jerey Rdes.
Stainless steel
Co-Axial Master
Chronometer on
navy leather strap,
6,240, byOmega

138
 Take a
closerlook
at your suit fabric.
Mohair blends (like
thisone) will have
adark lustre

Blue mohair-wool suit,

1,535; white cotton
shirt, 315; green
aviator sunglasses,
215, all by Prada.
Bluecotton tie, 15,
byThe Tie Bar
Casting: Edward Kim for the Edit Desk | Grooming: Gianluca Mandelli for Atelier Management | See Stockists page for details

Esquire | May 2017 139

 Kent & Curwen
Navy wool greatcoat,
1,200; dark green
merino wool jumper,
295; tan cotton chinos,
195, all by Kent &
Curwen. Blackleather
brogues, 495,
byBurberry

140 Esquire | May 2017

 Photographs by Fashion by

David Titlow Catherine Hayward

A fine town

On a stroll through whats left of down-at-heel Soho,

Aidan Gillen star of The Wire and Game of Thrones
showcases the best of the new vintage-inspired tailoring

Giorgio Armani
Light grey linen overcoat, 1,950; pale blue jacquard cotton shirt, 340; grey linen trousers,
from870;brown suede shoes, 490, all by GiorgioArmani

141
142
 A bright spring morning in London, and
Aidan Gillen is standing outside a Soho club
being photographed for Esquire. Some pas-
sersby stop to see what the fuss is about and
take snaps of their own Game of Thrones cast
members command a high approval rating
on social media but Gillen seems unfazed.
Nowonder, perhaps: the location was his idea.
I knew Id feel comfortable hanging
around a few doorways in Soho in something
that looks cool, the 49-year-old Irishman tells
me later. Ive loved it here ever since I came
to London in the late Eighties. When youre
19 and working in theatre, you finish at 11
oclockand dont want to go home. So, Id hang
around here with all the gangsters and musi-
cians andtransvestites.
Since those days, Gillen has clocked up
18years starring in landmark television, from
1999s groundbreaking drama Queer as Folk to
TV-as-art touchstone The Wire to the afore-
mentioned, really rather popular dragons and
death fest. This summer, Gillen returns as con-
niving social climber Petyr Baelish, aka Little-
nger, one of the few characters to appear in all
seven series of Game of Thrones and one of the
fewer still who are genuinely complex.
If the audience isnt sure whether they
like you, youre probably doing the job right,
he says. The amount of treachery Ive been
involved with now, theyve got plenty of rea-
sons to hate Littlenger. But my job is to keep
them on-side.
Game of Thrones has made Gillens face
internationally recognisable, especially when
hes in the company of his co-stars. Its one
thing for a Game of Thrones fan to see one cast
member, but try having a game of pool in Bel-
fast with Gwendoline Christie and Kit Haring-
ton he says. They go crazy! arealinnovation.
Louis Vuitton
Tartan woven leather
coat, 6,000; brown
checked wool jacket,
2,130; cream/brown
monogram silk shirt,
1,020; brown checked
wool trousers, 695,
all by Louis Vuitton
Esquire | May 2017
There is little point pressing seasoned
Game of Thrones cast members for spoilers
HBO keeps an assassins arrow trained on
them at all times but Gillen does let asmall
hint slip when I mention audiences missing the
scenes with his early sparring partner Varys
(played by Conleth Hill). Well, you might see
that again, you never know he says with
atrace of Littlengers sly smile on his lips.
Its no stretch to suggest that the phenom-
enal success of Game of Thrones has made the
lm were notionally here to talk about possi-
ble: Guy Ritchies King Arthur: Legend of the
Sword is amedieval fantasy epic with plenty
of blood and thunder. I see it as a gang caper,
and my character is one of the gang, says
Gillenof Goosefat Bill, the hitman who accom-
panies Arthur on his adventures. Obvi-
ously, Im supremely talented with a bow
and arrow, which helped. And you also see a
snake roar at one point, which Ithought was
He seems to be taking all this high-prole
success in his stride. My rst director said,
Dont be in a hurry to be getting to the top of
the ladder, because the best bit is the journey.
Which I think is important whatever you do.
Was that the best piece of encouragement hes
had? That and the people who said, Dont go
o to London to try and be an actor, youre not
going to make it. That was encouraging, in
adierent way.
Interview by Sam Parker
King Arthur: Legend of the Sword is out
incinemas on 19 May
Game of Thrones season seven begins on
17JulyonSky Atlantic
143
 Ermenegildo
Zegna
Navy silk-seersucker
blouson with knit
varsity collar, 1,455;
white cotton crew-
neck sweater, 445;
navy linen-cotton
trousers, 355; navy
leather loafers, 835,
all by Ermenegildo
Zegna. Burgundy
cotton socks,
12, by London
SockCompany

144
 Gieves &
Hawkes
Brown herringbone
wool coat, 1,495;
pink cotton T-shirt,
175, both by
Gieves& Hawkes

Esquire | May 2017 145

 Polo Ralph Photographers assistant: Christy White | Fashion assistant: Emie James-Crook | Digital operator: Rob Jarvis | Grooming: Terri Capon at Stella Creative Artists using Chanel Les Beiges, Chanel Blue Serum, Oribe Hair Care | See Stockists page for details

Lauren
Brown/white checked
wool jacket, 495;
pale blue cotton shirt,
175; brown silk
pocket square, 75;
brown/white checked
wool trousers, 285,
all by Polo Ralph
Lauren. Brown
leather double-monk
strap shoes, 425,
byCrockett&Jones

146 Esquire | May 2017

Burberry
Grey herringbone wool-
tweed asymmetric
greatcoat, 1,695;
white cotton dress shirt,
695; black heavy twill
trousers, 295; black
asymmetric leather
brogues, 495, all by
Burberry. Burgundy
cotton socks, 12, by
London Sock Company

147
Fashion

Directory
HOW TO INCORPOR ATE SPORTSWEAR
INTO YOUR SUMMER WARDROBE
WITHOUTLOOKING LIKE A TEENAGER

Edited by Emie James-Crook

Navy jersey-cotton Navy stonewashed Beige cotton White leather Blue leather Stainless steel Helvetica
jacket, 770, by cotton Rose chinos, 145, by IVtrainers, 125, document Light 38mm watch on
William &Son sweatshirt, 235, Gant Diamond G byGant holder,390, by Milanese bracelet, 310,
byKent &Curwen William&Son by Mondaine

148
 Fashion
Hearst Studios | See Stockists page for details

Khaki washed Charcoal merino White cotton Light green Black Free RN Black suede- Black ceramic Keramikos
cotton airfield wool crew-neck , granddad-collar cottontrousers, Flyknit trainers, leather backpack, guilloch watch, 325,
jacket, 230, by 175, by Gieves shirt, 20, 55, byCos 105, by Nike 395, by byTateossian
Tommy Hilfiger &Hawkes byTopman OliverSpencer

149
 Advertisement / Feature

Lifestyle Essentials
TRX2 Molecular Food Supplement for Hair
TRX2 Molecular Food Supplement for Hair is an innovative development by
Dr Thomas Whiteld DPhi(Biochemistry) and his team of scientists at
OxfordBioLabs.
TRX2 is based on organic compounds which, whencompared to some
medicinal products, has no sideeects. Its the rst hair-loss treatment to
contain potassium, Carnipure tartrate (L-carnitineL-tartrate),BCAA and
nicotinamide, and is delivered via aproprietary potassium channel-
stimulating complex.
It is one of Europes best-selling hair supplements and is on sale in over 100
countries. TRX2 is suitable for all adults and is produced in Germany.
Oxford Biolabs has now also introduced
an advanced TRX2 topical range.
TRX2 Thickening and Styling Cream
isthe latest in the portfolio of pioneering
TRX2 products available now to pre-order.
Also containing zinc, selenium and biotin,
give your hair a boost and help keep your hair
healthy with TRX2.

Pricing starts from 39.99 and you will be able to get

a five per centdiscount using the coupon code ES,
when ordering at trx2.com/ES

Brllen
Company
Brllen Company is
anewand up-and-coming
American brand based
onthe outskirts of Silicon
Valley. It now oers this Seeking: single
motocross-inspired T-shirt in
addition to its line of long-
eligible gentlemen
lasting high-quality leather
belts and wallets that are Bowes-Lyon Partnership is a modern
made in America and not dating agency with old-fashioned
mass-produced. The T-shirt values. We personally meet all of our
comes in three colours successful and accomplished members
tochoose from. With to hand-pair them with their ideal
atouchofstreet, moto and partner. For a limited time, we are
eleganceallin one brand, oering complimentary memberships
Brllen Company is to eligible gentlemen, to introduce
highlyrecommended! toour successful and attractive
femalemembers.
Visit brullencompany.com and
follow us on Facebook/ Call 020 7152 6011 or email
Instagram/ Twitter emma@bowes-lyonpartnership.co.uk
@brullencompany bowes-lyonpartnership.co.uk

150

A Acqua di Parma available
atharrods.com
Adidas available at office.co.uk
Albam albamclothing.com
Allegri allegri.it
Ami amiparis.com
APC apc.fr
Armani eyewear available
atsunglasshut.com
B Baracuta baracuta.com
Berluti berluti.com
Boss hugoboss.com
Bottega Veneta
bottegaveneta.com
Brioni brioni.com
Brunello Cucinelli
+44 20 7287 4347
brunellocucinelli.com
Burberry +44 20 7980 8425
burberry.com
C Canali canali.com
Camper camper.com
Churchs church-footwear.com
Converse available at
office.co.uk
Corneliani corneliani.com
Cos cosstores.com
Creed creedfragrances.co.uk
Crockett & Jones
crockettandjones.com
D Daks daks.com
Dan Ward danwardwear.com
Dior dior.com
Dior Homme +44 20 7172 0172
dior.com
Dolce & Gabbana
dolcegabbana.com
Drakes drakes.com
E Emma Willis emmawillis.com
Ermenegildo Zegna zegna.com
F Frdrique Constant available
at williamandson.com
Frescobol Carioca
frescobolcarioca.com
G Gant +44 20 7042 9680
gant.co.uk
Gant Diamond G gant.co.uk
Gieves & Hawkes
gievesandhawkes.com
Giorgio Armani armani.com
Giuseppe Zanotti
giuseppezanotti.com
Gucci +44 20 7235 6707
gucci.com
Double denim: Julian Barratt
sends mens fashion back
intime in Mindhorn, P96
H Hackett hackett.com O Oliver Peoples
Harrys of London oliverpeoples.com
harrysoflondon.com Oliver Spencer
Herms +44 20 7499 8856 oliverspencer.co.uk
hermes.com Omega omegawatches.com
Hugo Boss hugoboss.com Orlebar Brown
orlebarbrown.co.uk
I Incotex available at slowear.com
P Pantherella
J Jeffrey Rdes jeffreyrudes.com pantherella.com
J Crew jcrew.com Paul & Shark paulshark.it
Jimmy Choo jimmychoo.com Persol available at
John Lobb johnlobb.com davidclulow.com
JM Weston jmweston.com Polo Ralph Lauren
ralphlauren.co.uk
K Kent & Curwen Prada +44 20 7647 5000
kentandcurwen.com prada.com
Pretty Green
L Lanvin lanvin.com prettygreen.com
Lock & Co lockhatters.co.uk
London Sock Company R Ralph Lauren
londonsockcompany.com +44 20 7535 4600
Louis Vuitton ralphlauren.co.uk
+44 20 7399 4050 Ralph Lauren
louisvuitton.co.uk PurpleLabel
Ludwig Reiter ludwig-reiter.com ralphlauren.co.uk
Ray-Ban ray-ban.com
M Master & Dynamic Richard James
masterdynamic.co.uk +44 20 7434 0605
Mondaine mondaine.com richardjames.co.uk
Montblanc montblanc.com River Island
+44 20 344 576 6444
N Nike nike.com riverisland.com
May 2017
STOCKISTS
S Salvatore Ferragamo
+44 20 7629 5007
ferragamo.com
Serge Lutens
sergelutens.com
Sisley sisley-paris.com
Stone Island stoneisland.co.uk
Sunspel sunspel.com
T Tateossian tateossian.com
The Tie Bar thetiebar.com
Thom Browne available
atmrporter.com
Thom Sweeney
thomsweeney.co.uk
Thomas Pink
thomaspink.com
Timberland timberland.co.uk
Tods tods.com
Tommy Hilfiger tommy.com
Topman +44 20 7493 2237
topman.com
Topman Design topman.com
Turnbull & Asser
turnbullandasser.co.uk
V Versace versace.com
Victorinox victorinox.com
Vilebrequin vilebrequin.com
W William & Son
williamandson.com
Woolrich woolrich.com
153
Object of Desire

No 69 Kent & Curwen cricketsweater

495 Savile Row brand Kent & Curwen has made high-quality clothing for discerning men since
kentandcurwen.com 1926. One important milestone in its history came in the Thirties, when it produced sweaters
for the Hollywood Cricket Club, which could call on Laurence Olivier, Errol Flynn,
PGWodehouse, Boris Karlo and David Niven for its rst XI. Today, the label has been
refreshed by David Beckham with creative director Daniel Kearns, who celebrate its heritage
with a spring/summer 2017 range which includes natty cricket knits. This one, in pure
superne lambs wool, is our pick from the collection. Slim and nished with smart, dark
greencabling, its just the thing to drape over your shoulders at teatime in the clubhouse.

Words by Teo van den Broeke

154 Photograph by DAN MCALISTER