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INTRODUCTION
trendspotters have all tried to define that amorphous state of being called
cool. But theres also an adage that states, As soon as you try to define
cool, youve lost it. Cool is slippery. It shifts like smoke, a figment seen out
the corner of the eye but gone as soon as you turn your direct attention. What
opinions of cool relative to the rest of society occurred (call it looking at the
shadow of cool.) We can look at these moments and dissect them, discovering
the commonalities and thus create extrapolations that can help us identify
In Japan, its hip hop and reggae not country music that moves the underground.
find the cutting edge of neo-soul. Around the world, cool as created by black
culture has touched the heart and soul of many people. If I were to editorialize,
I would say cool touches a timeless place coming from hardship but filtered through
intelligence, grace and toughness, a place in the soul that connects people across
color and nationality without words. But this is not a time for such esoteric musings.
For marketers, cool is a commodity, it has value. Brands seek to make things cool to
legitimize products in the eyes of certain demographics and thus increase market
share. They chase cool, attempt to imbue cool into their products through borrowed
a growing black audience. Dashikis and Afros replaced white button downs and
processed hair. Headlines were written in the lexicon of the new hip tongue.
artisanal hot sauce. Cool must be integral to the concept, born from the subject,
Cool is authentic through and through. It is lived, inhaled and sometimes bled.
To attempt to understand cool, you must know what cool is, where it came from, how
it cam to be. This document will give a short history of cool as it applies to America
(including its global influence), defining it as an organic and intrinsic part of black
Author Robert Farris Thompson, professor of art history at Yale University, suggests that Itutu, which
he translates as mystic coolness, is one of three pillars of a religious philosophy created in the
15th century by Yoruba and Igbo civilizations of West Africa. Cool, or Itutu, contained meanings of
conciliation and gentleness of character, of generosity and grace, and the ability to defuse fights and
disputes. It also was associated with physical beauty. In Yoruba culture, Itutu is connected to water,
because to the Yoruba the concept of coolness retained its physical connotation of temperature.
He cites a definition of cool from the Gola people of Liberia, who define it as the ability to be mentally
situations where emotionalism or eagerness would be natural and expected. Joseph M. Murphy
writes that cool is also closely associated with the deity sun of the Yoruba religion.
The effect of coolness on tribal African culture becomes even more profound as it creates a
connection between the spirit and the material realms. Like the African deities, who for the
most part are unmoved by the petty issues of mortal men, coolness offers a sense of control,
connects ones spirit to the gods. Coolness raises intellect while diminishing the baser human
distractions. Coolness frees the individual from heated emotions that hinder the higher thought
processes. To exhibit grace under pressure is deeply connected to exuding a royal demeanor,
an inner peace and inner spirituality that marks the strongest of men, the leaders of nations.
Id like to draw parallels between the strength and attitude of European cool pose
(sprezzatura or studied carelessness) and African cool pose (ashe.) When we look
in posture and attitude as is found in photos and sculptures of African royalty despite
AS A COPING MECHANISM As much as cool in America has many positive connotations, the reasons for
cool and cool pose (the carriage of ones self in unfamiliar situations) are
Although most minority groups have suffered through some form of racism
within accepted political boundaries as Blacks have in America. Its this deeply
rooted, legally sanctioned and historical debasement that ironically, can be seen
During the dark days of slavery, an errant action or surreptitious look could
to sublimate his or her thoughts and feelings, to hide them behind a mask
of veiled emotion. This mask or front took many different guises depending
the enslaved Blacks could gain some level of independence and legitimacy in
-Lawrence Dunbar
THE NEW NEGRO
THE BIRTH OF AN INTELLECTUAL RENAISSANCE
IN NEW URBAN BLACK COMMUNITIES.
New Negro was a term popularized during the late 19th century to the early 20th century implying
a more outspoken advocacy of dignity and a refusal to submit quietly to the practices and laws of
As African Americans flocked to Northern cities in the 1920s in hopes of employment in booming
industrial cities, they created a new social and cultural landscape. Freed (somewhat) from the overt
inhumane treatment of the Jim Crow American South, and the increased relative wealth found in
new factory and domestic jobs in the North, these New Negroes (compared to the Old Negroes of
citizens of America, with all the rights and privileges of a white American
soldier. Little did they know the promises of democracy they believed that
Facing the lie of American democracy in post WW1 America only incensed
the New Negro to new levels of self-confidence during the years following
Race pride had already been part of literary and political self-expression among
African Americans in the 19th century. However, it found a new purpose and
host of figures associated with the Harlem Renaissance along with powerful black
thought from across the African diaspora including France and the Caribbean.
The radical Black newspaper, The Chicago Whip indicated in 1920 how this new line
of thought, a new method of approach included the possibility that the intrinsic standard
of beauty and aesthetics does not rest in the white race and that a new racial love,
respect and consciousness may be created. It was felt that African Americans were poised
to assert their own agency in culture and politics instead of just remaining a problem or
The New Negroes of the 1920s, also dubbed the talented tenth by Dr. WEB DuBois,
included poets, novelists and singers creating their art out of their own folk heritage
and history; Black political leaders fighting against corruption and for expanded
All of them shared in their desire to shed the image of servility and inferiority of the
shuffling Old Negro and achieve a new image of pride and dignity.
Aaron Douglas (1899-1979)-Aspects of Negro Life: From
In New Orleans, the rhythm of African slave drums (one of the only locations on the continental United states to allow
African drums and rituals) combined with European horns and the sounds of negro spirituals to create what we know call jazz,
As all art forms evolve with the times that created them, the evolution of jazz occurred hand in hand with the Blacks view and
position in America. The voice of jazz evolved and changed to reflect new influences, new themes and new ways of looking at
their world, dreams deferred in a post wartime America and all new possibilities for the future.
Harlem Jazz club, late 1940s
At the height of its influence, jazz was a powerful cultural movement, particularly influencing the young in
dress, language, and attitude. It was the cool jazz of the 40s that originated the word hipster.
In his book Jazz: A History (1977), Frank Tirro defines the 1940s hipster:
The hipster is an underground man. He is to the Second World War what the dadaist was to the first. He is amoral,
anarchistic, gentle, and overcivilized to the point of decadence. He is always ten steps ahead of the game because
of his awareness, an example of which might be meeting a girl and rejecting her, because he knows they will date,
hold hands, kiss, neck, pet, fornicate, perhaps marry, divorceso why start the whole thing? He knows the
hypocrisy of bureaucracy, the hatred implicit in religionsso what values are left for him?except to go
through life avoiding pain, keep his emotions in check, and after that, be cool, and look for kicks. He is looking for
In the jazz age hipster, we find a rejection of the norms of mainstream society, a disregard of the squares and
their acceptance of the American status quo. In rejecting the confines of a stifling society, they found themselves
free free to explore, to create new modalities, from how to communicate to how to dress.
(Above) Thelonious Monk, Dizzy Gillespie and
its ear. More than anything, he was internally emancipated, freed to birth himself (or herself) into an
wholly new art form that captured a new way of seeing himself and the world he lived in. This was
terrifying to the status quo. Their jungle rhythms along with their unrepentant lifestyle and his
influence upon a young white society enthralled by their rejection of old roles made polite society
see them as dangerous, Thus only making them more attractive to the genteel white world.
It was the white hipsters attraction to jazz music and the jazz musician that created the very first
totalitarianism and democracy for two centuries. He attributes the proliferation of the hip mentality to
the knifelike entrance of jazz into culture, explaining that the post-war generation shared a collective
disbelief in the words of men who had too much money and controlled too many things.
KEEP COOL DURING CIVIL RIGHTS
If the disbelief in the words of men who had too much money and controlled too many
things fomented cool as an underground cultural movement, it was the civil rights
movement of the 60s that gave cool a concrete spirit to challenge those same men and
The 1960s were a tumultuous time for America. The communist threat of Russia, the
encroachment of Communist North Vietnam into the democratic South and Americas
subsequent involvement in that south Asia country, along with growing racial issues at
home all created a palpable unease in America. While many white Americans pined for
the relative calm of the 50s, blacks saw those times as the dark ages of their personal
freedoms and began to stand up for their rights in a manner never before seen.
In a photo from the 1960s, A teen from
stood at the forefront to lead blacks to the prospect of a civil rights victory:
Martin Luther King Jr. and Malcolm X. Initially, they stood on opposite ends
of the battle. MLK with his college education and Southern Baptist church
background, took lessons from the bible and other historical figures in
and hustler from the streets was honed in the fiery rhetoric and pro-black
whites are devils stance of Elijah Muhammad and the Nation of Islam.
we were never able to see the fruition of this drift towards one another
rich and poor were drawn to these men and their messages for the
movement but more importantly what the movement made them feel
became leaders of their respective national movements. This may explain why they
carried themselves with a sartorial sharpness - to help imbue their image with
an authority their skin and age would not afford them. It apparently worked.
by their fellow participants. Black folks would dress to march, further con-
trasting the disheveled southern police forces and populace that often stood in
conflict to them. Their formality was a psychological armor. By taking the uniform
of the powered establishment and using it to their advantage, they could not be so
words. Not just the words themselves but how they were
The Black Panther Party for Self Defense of the 60s, offered a cool and urban
contrast to the proper and correct posture of the religion-based freedom fighters
Born from the assassination of Malcolm X and Martin Luther King Jr., a kindred
others created the Black Panther Party to directly empower the people along the
The leather jackets and afros completing the all-black attire, projected an image
that played well for the media and captured attention in a way none other had
up to then. They were far more than style. They created a relatable message and
image for an urban youth. More volatile, more outspoken, The Panthers directly
challenged the white police authority and inspired the black youth with a grittier,
more hardcore message along with concrete activities (food programs, health
clinics and education programs.)
Huey Percy Newton who along
The heroes of the young people during the mid to late sixties
All the major studios began shooting cheaply produced films that featured many of the
future black legends of Hollywood (Pam Grier, Fred Williamson, Lou Gossett Jr, Glynn
Thurman and many more got their start in these early flicks.) While the initial costs
were low, the returns were remarkable. MGM produced Gordon parks Shaft for 500,000
dollars but it went on to make $13 million at the box office, bringing the near-bankrupt
company back into solvency. The power of black film helped save Hollywood.
The films also featured soundtracks by some of the leading artists of the day
(Isaac Hayes won an Oscar for the title song in the film Shaft.) further raising the relevance
for an audience longing for all-black casts telling stories that reflected facets of their lives.
While today, many consider the preponderance of pimps, hookers and violence in these films
as a negative, back then they represented the feelings of the audience they were created for.
These were self-made individuals sticking it to the man and coming out on top. It was a
chance for blacks to see themselves writ large for the silver screen as actualized heroes, in
Black culture had been making gains, culturally, politically and socially throughout
the 70s. But as always, those on the bottom rungs of the socio-economic ladder
were left disenfranchised and ignored. This disenfranchisement was felt doubly
The Bronx, a borough in NYC was plagued by poverty and the subsequent symptoms
of having too many people living in too close proximity with others who also have too
little; apart from violence, drugs, gang warfare. Still, for a certain group of youths in
the midst of all these all too familiar pitfalls, this was the perfect time to express their
innovation and ingenuity. They would eventually craft a movement that would reach
Born from a musical tradition birthed in the slums of the Caribbean island of
Jamaica, Hip Hop is not just music but a culture consisting of music, dance and
graffiti. This multi-faceted nature of Hip Hop gave order in the madness and focus
in a time of dangerous distractions by allowing youth to get in where they fit in.
Couldnt rap? Be a dancer. Couldnt dance? Be an artist. It was a way for any kid
to gain fame, even if only in their hood. The founding fathers of Hip Hop, Kool
Herc and Afrika Bambatta may have just wanted to keep the party going but for
the kids in the Bronx, it was a lifesaver in a sea of uncertainty and it was easy
to make. It didnt require instruments except for two turntables, a cheap mixer
console, some speakers and a microphone. You didnt even have to know how to
sing, rapping was the form that gave voice to poor inner city youth. More than
anything, Hip Hop was empowering. The creators looked just like you, sounded
just like you, told tales that sounded like your life. Suddenly you felt like the star
whose song was playing over jerry-rigged speakers in the park, the song that
influences were spreading far and wide. Hip Hop had left The
Bronx, made it all the way to Brooklyn and Queens and was
A unique uniform.
Chatting up a honey while hauling your boombox.
v o i c e o f y o u t h t h a t s p o ke t o a n i n c re a s i n g ly w i d e a u d i e n c e .
H i p H o p w a s n o w s p e a k i n g t o t h e w o r l d . F ro m P o l a n d t o
To k y o , y o u t h w e re d r a w n t o t h e a r t f o r m , f i n d i n g t h e i r ow n
vo i ce a n d c re a t i n g m e t h o d s t h a t m a d e i t t h e i r ow n , w h i le
st i l l st a y i n g t r u e t o t h e b a s i c p re ce p t s t h a t we re fo u n d e d
ye a rs b e fo re . Fo r t h e s e p e o p le , H i p H o p w a s p e rs o n a l , i t
b e c a m e s o m e t h i n g t h ey ex p e r i e n ce d .
While the world was discovering the power in the culture, so were
to fast food now had a Hip Hop track, a Hip Hop attitude. Some were
executed better than others but all were commodifications of the cool
of Hip Hop. What we start to see is the slow degradation of the soul
made, hip hop and its cool would be subverted and even denigrated in
featured MC Potato.
more hard edged and some say dangerous subset of hip hop music was created. Gangsta rap was speaking from
another black perspective, a perspective that told of a hard reality where cops were as lethal to your life as any gang
Born out of the earlier Black Panther movement, what would eventually become known as West Coast Gangster
Culture initially started as benevolent community groups for the neighborhoods that bore them. Unfortunately the
influx of crack cocaine in the 80s sullied any good that once existed, accelerating gang culture and destroying the
neighborhoods they once set out to protect. These young men reveled in the frisson of danger and fear the young
black male exuded on polite society. In some ways, it was not dissimilar from the friction that was created back in
the jazz days but instead of an abstract philosophy of life, the gangster lifestyle threw the long-standing love of guns,
money and violence back in Americas face. Rocking locs (sunglasses), pressed dickies or chinos and Cons, they
kept to a blue-collar appeal (some would say this is a look adopted from jailhouse garb) with a definite edge of danger
This new form terrified both established blacks and whites. It seemed for a while to be incapable of digestion into
mainstream. But even the dangerous cool of gangster rap would eventually succumb to the C.R.E.A.M. philosophy
Throughout pop history there has always been artists whove transitioned from music to movies.
Some of the larger personalities in West Coast gangsta rap proved marketable in the film industry.
Ice Cube, Ice T and Snoop Dogg all appeared in films as legitimate actors. In 1991, one of the earliest
of these new breed of hip-hop influenced films entitled New Jack City featured cop killer Ice T
playing of all things, a cop. That same year, Ice Cube would be featured in another seminal hip hop film
Boys n The Hood. While both were placed on opposite sides of the country, they both captured a
voices, the most thug of personas and transform them into bankable Hollywood personalities. This is the
power of black cool, to understand ones inherent sense of self and ones value, yet still be able to sublimate
that sense for survival (more than survival, great wealth.) This has been the role of cool since the days of
As Hollywood and Madison Avenue rediscovered the financial gains to be made utilizing black cool, others races
and classes suddenly felt comfortable adopting certain elements of black cool. From dress to speech, black cool
became a thing to put on (and just as easily take off.) It was now a time of the white rapper, the expansion of
singers who adopted black styles, the usage of underground cool words in common speech. It was also the
beginning of a new wave of gentrification. No longer was it a black community, it was an urban community,
urban music, urban fashion. Urban became the catchall phrase to broaden the black experience for easy
accessibility. Black and black cool had been co-opted and morphed for mainstream appeal. Black cool
had made it to the Forbes 100 richest list with the likes of Jay-Z, Sean Puffy combs and Dr. Dre as proof
I n 2 0 0 8 , A m e r i c a v o t e d f o r t h e i r f i r s t b l a c k p re s i d e n t .
Yo u n g , h a n d s o m e , w i t h a b e a u t i f u l w i f e a n d c h i l d re n ,
B a r a c k H u s s e i n O b a m a c o u l d s i n g l i ke a b i rd , o r a t e
l i ke M a r t i n o r M a l c o l m . . . h e eve n h a d a t h re e p o i n t s h o t .
Fo r t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , t h e wo r ld , a n d e s p e c i a l ly b l a c ks
i n A m e r i c a , O b a m a w a s t o b e a sy m b o l o f t ra n s fo r m a t i ve
t i m e s . Fo l ks d i d n o t m i n d g i v i n g u p a b i t o f c u l t u re ,
I t s e e m e d a b l a c k p re s i d e n t b ro u g h t o u t t h e w o r s t i n
t ra d i t i o n a l A m e r i c a n v a l u e s . I f eve r t h e re we re
AfroPunk started as a counter to black imagery and black music that was no longer
wholly representative of black identity. It took some of its attitude from the downtown
punk rebellion of the 70s, rejecting the previously commodified and pimped-out black/
urban styles and culture to create something that echoed the afro-centric past while pointed
towards a neo-futuristic vision of black identity. Their music spans a range of styles, from hardcore
rock to soulful hip hop infused-jazz, albeit with a earnestness and edge unlike anything before.
They are a new breed of black, less concerned with adaption for survival, more concerned with self
expression, the idea that their cool should be pure to their unique American experience (the influences of
growing up in the suburbs, pop radio, as well as Mingus, Peter Tosh, Malcolm X and Chaka Khan.)
Afropunk is youthful as it is old, it is new even as its influences go back as far as Africa or music
from when they were ten. Its the poise of African princesses smashed into the couture of the Paris
runway. It is proud, defiant and worldly. Its malleable and plastic morphing from the popularity of
Erykah Badu to the philosophy of Cornell West. It is the latest iteration of black cool that is reshaping
Black cool has always been amorphous, a mutable and evolving state of mind and being. Like the image at the corner of ones
eye, when you try looking at cool directly, it moves and shifts like quicksilver. The tighter marketers try to get a grip on cool,
the quicker they lose the mark. Cool comes with a soft touch, a respect for the conditions that birthed it and having an intimate insight
into its current modes, staying on the leading edge of culture, trends, language and thinking. And even with all these resources, black cool
is hard to encapsulate. Maybe the best way to define cool would be with a simple but enigmatic quote:
D O N T P L AY W H AT S T H E R E , P L AY W H AT S N O T T H E R E .
MILES DAVIS