Alternative Fuel - Pretty Good BioDiesel 121a Watermarked

P GB
How to Make Pretty

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Good BioDiesel at Home

ioDiesel
Money Saving tips & instruction in the art & science of BioDiesel Production for the average Joe.
Version 1.21a
Copyright 2005 - 2007 OfficialBioDiesel.com all rights reserved
1
Copyright 2005 - 2007 OfficialBioDiesel.com all rights reserved Version 1.21a
Index
Legal Disclaimer: .8
Introduction to BioDiesel: ....9
Can I make BioDiesel FAQ: ........10
How much does it cost to make BioDiesel:..13
BioDiesel verses Fossil Diesel Fuel: ..14
The US Dept of Energy BioDiesel Statement: ...14
BioDiesel Benefits..14
Ecology & Greenhouse Gasses:..14
Lubrication:.....15
Fossil Diesel Fuel:15
BioDiesel Fuel:.15
BTU, Mileage & Power:....15
Manufacturers Engine Warranty:.15
Make a Sample Batch:..16
About Soap Formation:.18
Titration Guide:.19
Why Titrate?:19
What is Titration:...19
Materials needed to Titrate:...20
Tools needed to Titrate:.20
pH indicator Choices:20
Home Made Turmeric pH Indicator solution:...21
Home Made Red Cabbage pH Indicator solution:....22
Titration Preparation Steps:...23
Calibration of the 1cc & 5cc Syringe:23
Making an Accurate .1% Alkali Solution:.23
Titration How to Do it:..24
Making Methoxide:.25
Preparation for making your Big Batch of BioDiesel:..27
How & Where to obtain the very best WVO:27
Legalities of WVO collection:...29
EPA definition of used oil:30
How to make BioDiesel:....31
Suggested BioDiesel Processing Equipment:..32
Hardware equipment needed, to make a volume batch:..33
10 step BioDiesel OVERVIEW:..34
Detailed BioDiesel OVERVIEW:...35
How to Build a BioDiesel Processor:..36
Processor Design Choices:36
The AppleSeed style processor:...36
AppleSeed Pros:...36
AppleSeed Cons:..36
The AppleSeed Processor Design:.37
AppleSeed Materials List:.37
2
The Low Fume 55 gallon Steel Tank Processor:..38
Low Fume Processor Pros & Cons:38
Construction Tips Low Fume:....39
Low Fume Drawing:..40
Tools needed:.42
List of Materials Needed Low Fume:42
Improved Low Fume Drawing:.44
Tools needed:.46
List of Materials Improved Low Fume:.46
All In One Processor Drawing:..48
All In One processor description:49
Tools needed:.50
List of Materials All In One:.50
Photos of the 55 gallon Low Fume construction:....52
Process Tank Construction:...53
A bit about Heaters and wiring them in:...58
A few notes about heating elements & electricity:.59
Sturdy Process Tank Stand Construction:..........61
55 gallon steel BioDiesel Process Tank Operation:....63
Valve ID & Functions:..63
Hydro Testing the Tank & plumbing:...64
Lets Process a big batch of BioDiesel:..66
Process Tank operation how to:.66
Filling with WVO:.66
Circulation & Heating of WVO or BioDiesel:.67
Drying WVO with the Shower Head:...69
How to suck in the Methoxide Mixture & Transesterify:.70
Settling & Draining waste Glycerol:.71
Pumping out BioDiesel for temporary storage:.....72
Cleanup:.72
Lets Wash & Dry a big batch of BioDiesel:.73
Instructions for Washing BioDiesel in the Process Tank:.73
Instructions for Drying BioDiesel in the Process Tank:75
Polishing BioDiesel or how to wash & dry:..76
Washing Guide:.....76
Static Washing:..76
Mist Washing:....76
Bubble Washing:...76
Agitation Washing:77
Magnesol R60 Dry Washing:77
Notes:77
About Magnesol R60 Dry Washing BioDiesel without water:78
Magnesol Dry Washing 101:78
The Magnesol R60 Dry Wash Procedure:79
Wash Tank Design:..80
A simple static wash tank:80
A dynamic stand pipe design wash tank:..81
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The Easy No Weld Stand Pipe Wash Tank Project #1:....82
Tools Needed:...82
Parts needed:.82
Plumbing:.82
How tall should the stand pipe be?:..82
Note:.82
Stand Pipe Wash Tank Assembly Details:83
Water drain:..83
BioDiesel (standpipe) drain:.83
A Better Wash Tank, Welded Stand Pipe Project #2:...84
Photos of Stand Pipe Fittings welded into a 55 gallon steel drum:..84
Improvements you may want to incorporate:...85
Instructions for using your new Wash Tank:86
Shake Test, a Good way to test if the BioDiesel is fully washed:86
Notes:87
What else?:88
Drying Guide:89
Drying Methods:90
Cold Drying:..90
Heat Drying:..90
Static Air Drying:..90
Air Pumping:.90
Shower Drying:.90
Combination Drying:.90
Heat only Drying:..90
Direct Heating:..90
Indirect Heating:92
Air Drying:.92
Combination Drying:.92
What Dry BioDiesel should it look like:93
How to test the dryness of WVO or BD:...93
Resting & Testing your BioDiesel:94
Resting:..94
Testing:..94
Filtering BioDiesel:95
Why Filter fuel at all?:...95
Filtration Guide:96
Filtering:96
How to Filter BioDiesel:96
Building the Pressure Filter tank:..97
Pressure Filter Tank Ports:.98
How to use your new BioDiesel filtering tank:.99
Pumping BioDiesel & Final Filtration techniques:100
Storing BioDiesel Fuel:.101
What to do with Waste Glycerol:..101
Presto style Logs:..101
Use it as fuel:.101
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Make Hand Soap:..101
How to Make Hand Soap out of waste Glycerol:.102
All about Pumps:..103
Diaphragm Pumps:103
Piston Pumps:103
Gear Pumps:..103
Sliding Vane Pumps:.104
Impeller Pumps:.104
Venturi Pumps:..104
Screw Pumps:.105
Water Ram Pumps:105
Cryo Pumps:..105
The History of BioDiesel:.106
Running on SVO, Straight Vegetable Oil?:..107
What is the Cetane number & what does it mean?:..109
Differences between various Vegetable oils:110
Differences between various Alcohols:.111
Freezing , Gelling & Protection:112
CP or Cloud Point..112
GP or Gel Point or PP or Pour Point:112
Clouding or Gel Point Correction:.113
BioDiesel Protection:113
Advanced Winter protection lowering CFPP:..114
Winterize BioDiesel by Cold Fractioning:..114
How to Winterize BioDiesel by Tallow Reduction:114
Using waste glycerol to remove tallow from WVO:...114
Step by Step Tallow Reduction Procedure:.115
Notes:...116
Tallow reduction terminology:116
Approximate BioDiesel Yield from Waste Vegetable Oil:.117
Residual Catalyst & Soap Testing Procedure:.118
What Dont Work for Making BioDiesel:119
BioDiesel Trouble Shooting:.120
Paint Flakes or curls in my BioDiesel Processor:....120
Too much lye:..120
Not enough lye:120
Not enough alcohol:.120
Too much alcohol:...120
Water in oil:.....120
Soap Formation:..120
Milky Color: ...120
Brown goop in bottom of BioDiesel: .120
Cloudy Smokey formation in the bottom of the BioDiesel:120
Dark BioDiesel: .120
WVO smells like Vinegar: .120
Sugar in WVO: ..120
Fruit Flys Everywhere: ..120
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Emulsion Identification: .121
Partial Emulsion: 121
Full Blown Emulsion: 121
Wash problems because of Monoglicerides and Diglycerides:121
Home testing for Monoglicerides and Diglycerides:.121
Fixing an Emulsion: ..122
Emulsification, the middle layer variety: ..122
Severe Emulsion Fix: 123
Time: .123
Heat: ..123
Salt: ...123
Acid: ..123
Safety concerns: ..124
General Chemical Handling Safety: ...124
Chemicals required to make BioDiesel: .125
Health Hazards & Personal Safety: 125
Lab Equipment Specifications: ...127
Digital Scales: .127
Thermometer: ..127
Titration - Quick Reference: ..128
Handy PH Reference Chart:129
Cabbage pH color chart reference:..129
Approximate Fuel Properties of some Methyl Esters: ..130
Melting Points of some Raw Oils: ..131
US Department of Energy Fuel Comparison Chart: ..132
The Chemistry of BioDiesel Transesterification: ...133
BioDiesel Mono Alkyl Esters: .133
Definitions of relevant Chemistry Words & Terminology:134
Sources: ..141
Sources of BioDiesel Information: 141
Sources of Pumps & Fluid Handling Supplies:..141
Tank Suppliers (cone bottomed & Storage HDPE tanks):..141
Laboratory Supplies, Reagents, Equipment & Lab Ware:..142
Chemical Suppliers:.142
Sources for BioDiesel Reaction Processors & Plans:..142
BioDiesel Reaction Processor Links with some building instruction:143
Other Ideas for Wash Tanks:..143
Free & low cost how to make BioDiesel Videos:143
BioDiesel Filtration:.143
Making Soap:...143
Misc Info Sources:...143
Processor Flow Diagram:.....144
Totally enclosed Full Complete BioDiesel System:144
MSDS Sheet Preface page:..146
B100 BioDiesel Example MSDS Sheet:....147
Methyl Alcohol Example MSDS Sheet:........149
Sodium Methoxide Example MSDS Sheet:...158
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Potassium Hydroxide Example MSDS Sheet:...166
Sodium Hydroxide Example MSDS Sheet:...174

Glycerin Example MSDS Sheet:..183
Glycerol Example MSDS Sheet:......189
Sample BioDiesel Log Book:.....196
BioDiesel Internet Information Links:...197
Government Agencies with Biofuel Information:...197
Standards and Testing, Chemical Composition of BioDiesel:.198
Education, Research Sites & Papers:...198
Other General Information:..198
Using Vegetable Oil as Fuel:...198
Reclaiming Methanol:..199
Respirator Selection:199
Soap Making Using BioDiesel Waste:.199
BioDiesel as a Home Heating Fuel:.....199
Photo Gallery:...200
Upside down dish soap squirt bottle method:.....200
BioDiesel looks like in various stages:...201
Methoxide mixing tank:......205
Cleaning Hardened Glycerol out of the Processor:.....208
Heating Element Failure from Cooked on Crud:209
Screening some WVO:...210
Dip tube shown in use:...211
All in One pipe call out schematic:....212
All in One pipe fitting call out schematic:.213
Low Fume shown in Operation:...214
Low Fume up close in Operation:....215
7
Legal Disclaimer
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We are hereby providing Legal notice that all information, products & literature and materials provided by
OfficialBioDiesel.com are provided strictly for educational purposes. Even though many others may be using this same
material, information, products or materials to successfully produce BioDiesel, we shall be held harmless in the event of
accident, injury or damage either physical, mental or any other kind of damage. If you utilize any material or information
obtained from us in any attempt at making BioDiesel or any other material we shall be held harmless in the event of
accident, injury or damage either physical, mental or any other kind of damage. Since we have no control over your state of
mind, training or conditions under which you might attempt to make BioDiesel, we shall be held harmless in the event you
use any product, information, literature or materials we provide in any attempt at producing, using, storing BioDiesel or
other material & cause any singular event or combination event not exclusive of bodily or physical damage or injury either
real or imaginary to anybody or anything. You personally are responsible for any accidents or damage you may create. In
all cases we shall be held harmless. Your use of our web site or literature and any materials or information we may provide
constitutes your agreement to this notice. You have no other legal recourse and your use of anything we provide you
constitutes your agreement.
Although these instructions are believed to be correct, they may inadvertently contain errors or omissions & are
provided for educational purposes only. Anyone contemplating physically using or following these instructions does so
entirely at their own risk to both property & health & is urged to first look for outside references to back up what is
contained herein.
Although the instructions shown in this document are believed to be fully correct, this short course is for education
purposes only, the author & seller take no responsibility for any damages to any property or to any person which may be
sustained as a result of the actual use of the instructions contained in this guide or from the www.officialbiodiesel.com
web site. Furthermore the author retains the right to modify, or change the instructional content of this guide at any time
without notification and is under NO obligation to provide updated versions or copies to any prior recipients, however may
elect to do so if the author so desires. You are encouraged to report errors found & to check back periodically at
www.officialBioDiesel.com so any corrections or modifications to these instructions can be noted by you & or
downloaded as we see fit to provide.
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Pretty Good BioDiesel, PGB, OfficialBioDiesel.com and the OfficialBioDiesel.com logo are trademarks of
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the exclusive property of OfficialBioDiesel.com and are hereby protected by copyright notice, Copyright 2005 - 2007
8
Introduction to BioDiesel
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Basic Introduction: BioDiesel fuel is made from Vegetable oil, alcohol & lye. This oil can
be either fresh or used oil. Fresh vegetable oil does not contain as much Free Fatty Acids or FFAs as
does used deep fat fryer oil. The alcohol most commonly used is Methanol since it is both cheap & can
be made as anhydrous (dry) very easily. The type of Lye (Caustic Soda) used most often is Sodium
Hydroxide since it is both cheap & readily available. The amount of Caustic Soda (Sodium
Hydroxide) required to neutralize the FFA content is higher when using high FFA used waste
vegetable oil. The drawback with using fresh vegetable oil is the cost. Fortunately, used deep fat fryer
oil is cheap or in most cases free for the taking.
BioDiesel is Transesterified Vegetable oil that has been chemically converted into a Methyl
Ester. Since it is no longer Vegetable Oil, its characteristics change, for example the viscosity or
thickness of the liquid is significantly reduced, BioDiesel is slightly more viscous than Fossil Diesel
Fuel yet will fuel most diesel engines without any special conversion.
The most common process for making BioDiesel is known as transesterification. This process
involves combining any natural oil (vegetable or animal) with virtually any alcohol, and a catalyst.
The energy efficiency & simplicity of transesterification is an important aspect of BioDiesel, which
makes it very favorable in a high cost fuel market. BioDiesel can be made by the average Joe
inexpensively with basic equipment and common chemicals. Just be sure to use extreme caution when
carrying out these procedures, since methanol and catalyst are toxic, and give off potentially harmful
vapors. Proper personal protection is imperative, including thorough ventilation.
Since the introduction of low Sulphur Fossil Diesel Fuel S500 as mandated by the EPA in the
1990s, and which resulted in damage to older diesel fuel systems, most diesel vehicle manufacturers
have changed the fuel line components from natural rubber components such as Nitril to a synthetic
Viton material. Natural rubber components are not compatible with BioDiesel which will eventually
soften the rubber causing it to deteriorate, swell & fall apart over time. The newer Synthetic Viton o-
rings, Synthetic Viton lined rubber hoses & Steel fuel lines however are fully compatible with
BioDiesel. Older pre 92 vehicles may require conversion to handle BioDiesel fuel, this requires
changing to Synthetic fuel handling component materials which is easily accomplished & within
reason regarding the cost.
October 15th 2006 marked yet another milestone in modern diesel fuel technology. The US
EPA has again mandated much lower sulphur content in diesel fuel. Now it is called S15 or ULSD
which stands for Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel. The process used to reduce the sulphur to 15 PPM also
removes almost all aromatic hydrocarbons from the fuel. This is very bad news for diesel fuel systems
older than 2007 since 2006 & older diesel engine fuel systems were designed to use the aromatic
hydrocarbons to keep fuel system seals pliable. As an added benefit to using BioDiesel, it turns out
that BioDiesel does contain about 40% or so of the aromatic hydrocarbons that S500 diesel fuel did. It
may turn out that BioDiesel will save your older diesel fuel system from damage caused by the
reduced sulphur & aromatic hydrocarbons in the new S15 fuel.
Raw vegetable oil cannot be burned in most modern diesel engines without extreme vehicle
modifications installing a lot of special heaters, hoses, controllers & fuel tanks, at a high $ cost. Raw
vegetable oil known as SVO (straight vegetable oil) is not registered with the EPA as a legal motor
vehicle fuel however BioDiesel made to ASTM specifications is recognized as a Top Tier clean
burning legal motor vehicle fuel by the EPA.
9
Can I make BioDiesel FAQ
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Making BioDiesel is so simple that an 11 year old could make BioDiesel, they have been
known to make it, although we do not recommend it. Provided you are a responsible person capable of
following simple instructions, are not mentally impaired in any way and can follow simple
instructions, you should be able to safely make BioDiesel yourself. You could surely make a small test
batch in an old blender or a 2 liter soda pop bottle just to prove to yourself that you can make it
yourself. Besides saving you big money, many people find making BioDiesel is a nice hobby. If you
dont wish a new hobby or have no desire to save real money by making reasonable quantities of
BioDiesel for fueling the family vehicle then you need to ask yourself a few simple questions to see if
this is worth it for you. The answers are sometimes fairly obvious & other times not so obvious. Let us
start by answering these questions the best we can before you commit to making BioDiesel for your
daily commute
Q - Is it worth my time to make?

A - How much is your spare time worth to you? BioDiesel currently costs around $1 a gallon to make.
While it will not require 100% of your time & attention, it will take about 4 to 6 hours of your time
spread out over a few days to make 40 gallons of ASTM quality BioDiesel. At todays diesel fuel
prices near $3.00 gallon, that saves you about $80 for every 40 gallon batch of BioDiesel made. Fuel
prices are expected to go higher over time so it is likely that making BioDiesel will save you much
more in years to come.
Q How much space does making BioDiesel require?

A - The All In One processor can easily be fit on a 4x4 shipping pallet with room to spare but
storage of oil & fuel can take up significantly more space. It depends on how much WVO feedstock
the amount of completed BioDiesel you wish to stockpile & whether or not you want to age your
BioDiesel which would require more storage space. You will generally need about a 6 x 8 space,
which includes walking space to make it in.
Q - Will the neighbors or neighborhood association complain or have an objection?

A - You know your neighborhood better then we do, however the odor is almost non-existent & the
neighbors should not be able to smell it. What it looks like can be another matter though. We suggest
putting it in some sort of well-ventilated building or under a nice Carport tarp type canopy. People
have been known to make it in their garage, with the door open and fans running for ventilation of
course.
Q - Will I be in violation of any zoning ordinances?

A - The only way to find out is to make a few phone calls, Id call anonymously if possible. If the
local fire department is not familiar with BioDiesel production, you may find that you will need to
educate the department that it is safe to make & store, this can be quite an undertaking if they are
uncooperative so be prepared by doing your home work. Generally speaking the only flammable is the
alcohol in storage. The BioDiesel & WVO are both considered non-flammable. BioDiesel has a higher
flash point than #2 diesel fuel or Home Heating oil making it safer to store.
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Q - Is BioDiesel dangerous to use?
A It is considered non-toxic and an environmentally safe fuel that decomposes in about 2 weeks if
spilled on the ground. It has grown main stream acceptance and now is recognized by all diesel engine
manufacturers as an acceptable fuel. Engine manufacturers are very conservative & suggest burning
from 5% to a 20% mix of BioDiesel in the fuel, however the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says that
you cannot simply void a warranty because an alternative was used, it must be proven that damage
was done by the alternative in question. You should do some research to see if other people are using
BioDiesel in the same vehicle/engine combination that you have, what mix they are using & if they are
having any problems. If you cannot locate anyone else using BioDiesel in the same vehicle that you
have, we suggest starting out with the manufacturers recommendation & start bumping up the
percentage from there. If you begin to notice a change in operation, add more #2 diesel fuel to reduce
the percentage of BioDiesel being burned. You decide if your vehicle will run ok on the percentage
BioDiesel mixture you want to burn. Most diesel vehicles made between the mid 90s & the early
2000s will burn straight B100 without problem. The EPA has recognized it as a legal motor vehicle
fuel. Many local buses & government vehicles are successfully being fueled on BioDiesel. The
number of BioDiesel fueled vehicles is growing every single day. Properly made BioDiesel is safe to
use in most modern diesel engines. You can mix it at any percentage with regular diesel fuel if you
desire. We have provided links at the end of this document to the various vehicle manufacturers
statements regarding BioDiesel use. Generally, you will find that people making BioDiesel for
themselves are more picky than big business, as such individuals making BioDiesel for themselves
will generally make ASTM BioDiesel that is at least as good as commercially made BioDiesel &
many times it may be better.
Q Is BioDiesel dangerous to make or store?

A - Making BioDiesel requires you to work with chemicals that can be hazardous, however with
proper precautions and due care you should be safe. Any method of protecting your processing setup
from the elements will require some sort of enclosure. An enclosure can cause methanol fumes to
build up or concentrate so you should use fans to prevent fumes from accumulating for the protection
of your health & to prevent potential fire hazards due to fume concentration. Methanol alcohol has
very little smell but breathing the fumes is not healthy which is another reason for good ventilation, be
sure to read the Methanol MSDS sheet in this document. Methanol is not much different than gasoline
regarding fumes and fire precautions that need to be taken regarding sparks & open flames. Waste
vegetable oil is generally not considered a hazardous substance by the EPA. Lye (Caustic Soda),
provided it is kept dry & properly stored and used with due care is not much of a fire or health risk.
Once the fuel is made it has a flash point much higher than regular #2 diesel fuel or home heating oil
so it poses a low fire risk and is considered to be non-flammable & does not generate flammable
fumes. BioDiesel is cheap to make, biodegradable if spilled and #2 diesel fuel is more hazardous.
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Q - Am I capable of constructing the BioDiesel process tank myself?
A Can you read & follow simple instructions? Can you use a hammer or other simple tools? Are
you capable of using a medium size pipe wrench or two? Building a BioDiesel processor isnt a very
difficult project. If you believe you are capable of following simple directions, screwing together a few
pieces of pipe & doing some basic wiring (or having someone do these things for you), then you
should be able to build a BioDiesel processor. At worst you may have to visit a local welding shop to
have a few fittings welded to a steel drum. Once the tank fittings are tank, Basically all you need to do
is screw together some pipe fittings.
Q- Do I have the time or will I have to get some shop to make the processor for me?
A - Only you can answer this one. It will take you about a day to assemble the processor once
you have purchased everything & gathered up your tools. You may possibly need to have a local
welding shop or school assemble some of the components depending on what kind of processor you
decide on & your abilities. We give many different ideas, projects & suggestions for building your
BioDiesel processor & wash/drying tank. Since no one particular BioDiesel processor setup is right for
everybody, we give you the flexibility to pick a design that is right for you. You may want to get a
local welding shop to weld a few fittings to your tank or you may want them to build the whole
processor for you. Only you know your abilities. If all else fails, you may check with your local high
school shop & science teachers, perhaps they may show interest in an eco-friendly BioDiesel class
project. It would make for an educational class room project.
12
How much does it cost to make BioDiesel
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The examples below do not account for the relatively low cost of the BioDiesel processing
equipment. The equipment needed to make 5 gallons of biodiesel is relatively inexpensive and easy to
get. The equipment to make a huge 250 gallon batch of biodiesel would be another matter. We
generally make 40 gallon batches which isnt very expensive or involved to build a processor capable
of that size a batch. The below examples are intended to compare the cost of a small batch with the
cost savings of making a large volume. A home made 40 gallon processor can cost between $150 to
$700 but pays for itself quickly. Our simple design would be nearer $150 to build.
Example 1: You go to a restaurant and obtain 5 gallons of free WVO from the deep fryer. You go to
ABC Racing Fuels and buy 1 gallon of methanol for $15.24. You find by doing a titration that you
need 3.5 ounces of Red Devil Lye, costing $1.36. You end up with 5 gallons of BioDiesel and a little
more than a gallon of glycerol. The cost of making this biodiesel is $3.32 per gallon.
Example 2: You go to a restaurant and obtain 250 gallons of used WVO for Free. You go to XYZ
Fuel Company and buy 55 gallons of methanol for $192.00. You go to XYZ company and buy a 50LB
sack of Hydroxide for $50 which comes to $1.10 a LB. You need 18 ounces of sodium hydroxide at a
cost of $1.24. The total cost is $193.24. You end up with 250 gallons of BioDiesel at a cost of $0.77
per gallon. Even if you had to purchase the WVO for $1 a gallon the BioDiesel would have cost you
only $1.80 per gallon. At a cost of $3.50 per gallon for #2 diesel and a cost of $0.77 per gallon of
BioDiesel, that saves you $2.73 for every gallon of home made BioDiesel you burn.
Note: Chemical prices are tied to the energy market, as of mid 2007 the chemical costs to make
BioDiesel are close to $1 per gallon of finished BioDiesel. Diesel fuel costs near $3 gal currently.
On average at todays current costs

You can expect to pay $2.75 to $3.50 per gallon of Methanol when purchased in bulk 55 gallon drums.
You can expect to pay between $ 0.80 & $1.25 per Lb for Sodium Hydroxide when purchased in a
50Lb sack.
You can expect to get your source WVO free for the taking at most restaurants, less your time & fuel.
So ignoring any processor construction expense, wash water consumption & minor electric
power costs involved when making 40 gallons of BioDiesel out of good quality WVO you can expect
to pay on average around $40 for chemicals.
This means your cost for chemicals per gallon of BioDiesel made should be around $1 per gallon
depending on your titration numbers & the volume of alcohol used.
Electric power consumed is relatively minor at around 9000 watts consumed & at 10 cents per Kw that
amounts to less than $1 in electricity per 40 gallon batch.
Water consumption will be near a 1:1 ratio of BioDiesel you are making, so for 40 gallons of
BioDiesel you will consume around 40 gallons of wash water which again is cheap.
As far as the equipment required for making BioDiesel with, it is mostly plumbing which will have a
very long life so most of these should be just a one time investment. Pumps & heating elements do
wear out over time but the average cost of these parts is relatively minor & they generally last quite a
while. We are on year #2 with our current processor pump.
13
BioDiesel verses Fossil Diesel Fuel
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The US Dept of Energy BioDiesel Statement

Biodiesel Benefits
Because little fossil energy is required to move biodiesel, it is a substitute or extender for
traditional petroleum diesel, and special pumps or high pressure equipment for fueling is not needed.
In addition, it can be used in conventional diesel engines, so special vehicles or engines to run
biodiesel do not need to be purchased. However, users should always consult with the OEM and
engine warranty statement before using biodiesel.
Scientists believe carbon dioxide is one of the main greenhouse gases contributing to global
warming. Neat biodiesel (100% biodiesel) reduces carbon dioxide emissions by more than 75% over
petroleum diesel. Using a blend of 20% biodiesel reduces carbon dioxide emissions by 15%.
Biodiesel also produces fewer particulate matter, carbon monoxide, and sulfur dioxide emissions (all
air pollutants under the Clean Air Act).
Since biodiesel can be used in conventional diesel engines, the renewable fuel can directly
replace petroleum products; reducing the country's dependence on imported oil.
Biodiesel offers safety benefits over petroleum diesel because it is much less combustible, with
a flash point greater than 150C, compared to 77C for petroleum diesel. It is safe to handle, store,
and transport.
Pure biodiesel (B100) is considered an alternative fuel under EPAct. Lower-level biodiesel
blends are not considered alternative fuels, but covered fleets can earn one EPAct credit for every 450
gallons of B100 purchased for use in blends of 20% or higher.
Source: http://www.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandfuels/epact/about/epact_fuels.shtml
Ecology & Greenhouse Gasses

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BioDiesel is a clean, renewable and domestically produced diesel fuel, and has many
characteristics of a promising alternative energy resource. Although burning BioDiesel in a vehicle
does produce CO2 (a greenhouse gas), it is commonly known that BioDiesel does not contribute to
the harmful greenhouse gasses in our atmosphere. This may seem strange, however it is true & the
reason for it is simple. The vegetable oil used to make the BioDiesel was grown fairly recently by a
modern day farmer & as those farm crops grew they absorbed CO2 from the air. This CO2 is from the
modern world & likely was absorbed by those crops the very same year that the BioDiesel is
consumed by a vehicle. When that vehicle burns the BioDiesel, it simply released the CO2 back where
it came from (modern day) & most likely the same year it was originally absorbed from the
atmosphere. However in the case of fossil fueled diesels, the fuel was made from oil that had origins in
plant material grown millions of years ago. The CO2 from those plants had been trapped deep within
the earth in a big pool of fossil oil. When that oil gets made into fuel & burnt, it releases ancient CO2
into todays world & raises our modern day atmospheres level of CO2. This is why BioDiesel does not
contribute to greenhouse gas effects like its fossil fuel counterpart.
14
Lubrication
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Fossil Diesel Fuel
Due to recent EPA regulations mandating Sulphur elimination in diesel fuel, diesel fuel can no longer
contain as much lubricating Sulphur as it once did. The Sulphur a lubricating component in diesel fuel
was mandated in late 2006 by the EPA to decline to new all time low levels. This new fuel is called
S15 or ULSD. Note that it was well known that Low Sulphur fuels known as LSD or S500 which were
implemented in the early 1990s were notorious for the damage caused to Injection Pumps due to lack
of lubrication. One can only imagine what will happen when ULSD replaces Low Sulphur Diesel &
the lubricating Sulphur virtually disappears in #2 diesel fuel.
BioDiesel Fuel
While BioDiesel does not normally contain Sulphur, it is a superior lubricant. The lubricity of
BioDiesel Fuel is known to be far greater than that of any Fossil Diesel Fuel.
BTU, Mileage & Power

BioDiesel Fuel falls approximately half way between #1 Diesel & #2 Diesel Fuel in Cetane &
BTU content. Fuel Mileage will be a tad lower with BioDiesel than with #2 Diesel Fuel. Since BTU
content & Cetane values vary between different kinds of Vegetable Oil feed stock, BioDiesel Fuel
Mileage will vary somewhat depending on which Vegetable Oil base your BioDiesel is made from.
Generally, the energy content of BioDiesel is approximately 11% lower than diesel fuel, however the
higher cenistoke value of BioDiesel gives a better injector pump piston seal with results in a better IP
efficiency so the net result is that only a minor 5 to 7% loss of power should be experienced. Mileage
may drop approximately 10%, again depending on the vegetable oil feed stock variety used to make it.
But the low cost of around $0.70 per gallon verses $3.25 for #2 diesel fuel more than make up for
minor mileage & power differences.
Manufacturers Engine Warrantys

Engine companies do not manufacture fuel or fuel components. Therefore, engine companies
do not warranty fuel - whether that fuel is BioDiesel or petrol diesel fuel. Since engine manufacturers
warranty the materials and workmanship of their engines, they do not warranty fuel of any kind. If
there are engine problems caused by a fuel (again, whether that fuel is petrol diesel fuel or BioDiesel
fuel) these problems are not related to the materials or workmanship of the engine, but are the
responsibility of the fuel supplier and not the engine manufacturer. Any reputable fuel supplier
(BioDiesel, petrol diesel, or a blend of both) should stand behind its products and cover any fuel
quality problems if they occur. For further information please see the Official site of the BioDiesel
Board. http://www.BioDiesel.org/resources/fuelfactsheets/standards_and_warranties.shtm You can
also read the engine manufacturers fuel policy statements at our
http://www.officialbiodiesel.com/fuel_policys.htm web page.
15
Make a Sample Batch
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Make a small 1 Liter Batch to prove you can make it yourself
Note: All items should be as close to normal room temperature as possible when beginning.
Collect these items & note you can never use them for food again.
READ ALL the instructions Before making a sample batch.

DO NOT EVER allow any aluminum items to contact Lye!
This procedure can be used to make test batches of BioDiesel out of used vegetable oil, to do
so you would need to do a titration (a simple PH measurement procedure) to determine how much Lye
you will need to add in order to counteract any FFAs (Free Fatty Acids) which are contained in your
WVO. For this batch though we will use New Vegetable Oil which does not require titration.
1 clean clear 2 Liter plastic soda bottle

1 clean Quart Mason Jar in good shape with a good tight fitting lid
1 Bottle of Heet Brand gas line antifreeze in Yellow 350ml Bottle (100% Methanol alcohol)
1 Lb of Red Devil Brand Lye (Sodium Hydroxide)
1 Liter of New liquid Vegetable Cooking Oil such as Wesson (the type of oil is not important)
1 glass or plastic graduated measuring cup
1 plastic funnel
1 empty clear dish soap dispensing bottle such as from Dawn dish soap.
PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) Face Shield, rubber gloves, plastic apron
1. Put on the PPE & make your BioDiesel outside to avoid fume & spill hazards..
2. Make sure all items are at normal room temperature before proceeding.
3. Measure out 250ml or 75% of the bottle of the Heet brand Methanol into a clean Mason Jar.
4. Quickly weigh out 4 grams or carefully measure 1 tsp of the Red Devil Lye (do not allow Lye to
contact anything made of aluminum & do not touch the Lye!). Carefully pour the Lye into the Mason
Jar with the Methanol. DO NOT MIX THIS IN A PLASTIC SODA BOTTLE, as the reaction will get
hot & cause the plastic to quickly craze & leak under pressure! I know this from personal experience.
Be aware Lye quickly will absorb moisture from the air & needs to be kept capped & dry at all times
or it will loose potency & change chemically rendering it useless to us.
5. Quickly Put the lid on the Mason Jar & screw it down tightly, then being very cautious of spillage first
check your jar seal & then shake it hard for a while, then shake it periodically until the Lye gets totally
dissolved & the mixture no longer gets hot. It will heat up to around 120F as the Lye & Methanol
combine to form Methoxide. Do this outside & keep a charged water hose near by in case of accidental
contact with the Methoxide. Note: use extreme caution when working with methoxide as it will
instantly & permanently kill any nerve cells it touches and will give you a nasty chemical burn at the
same time which you naturally cant feel since the nerve cells are dead. If methoxide contact is made
with your skin, rinse thoroughly with cold water & neutralize it with vinegar, rinse it again and then
seek medical attention.
6. Put 1 Liter of cooking oil (any kind) into a 2 Liter soda bottle (about way full).
7. Once the Methoxide mix is totally dissolved & no longer gets hot or warm when shaken it is ready to
be added into the 2 Liter soda bottle in with the oil (use the plastic funnel). Cap the soda bottle tightly
16
carefully, check the seal, and then shake it hard! Continue to shake it for at least 25 very hard shakes.
Repeat shaking it a few times every 10 seconds for 1 minute. After the minute is up you should shake
it up hard a few times every 20 seconds or so and continue doing this for at least 3 to 5 minutes.
8. Let the 2 Liter bottle sit undisturbed, watch the mixture and a well defined layer will begin to form
then settle near the bottom of the jar. This is the glycerol layer which is a waste by product.
9. Allow the glycerol to settle, keep the bottle tightly capped for a few hours or overnight for the glycerol
layer to fully develop then carefully separate the two layers by either very carefully pouring or
siphoning off one or the other. The top Layer is BioDiesel, just be careful you do not mix them again
or you will have to wait for them to settle out again. An inverted liquid dish soap squirt bottle works
well to drain out the glycerol layer.
10. Discard the glycerol layer & put the BioDiesel back into the soda bottle or keep it in the liquid dish
soap bottle.
11. Now you have made BioDiesel. It should be Washed & Dried to achieve ASTM standards. Some
people use it just like this & only filter it before using it in their vehicle but do not recommend that.
12. If desired test the raw BioDiesel in your refrigerator to see what temperature point it will gel at.
13. To wash it, slowly add in 250ml of warm water down the side of the bottle into the BioDiesel. Do not
allow the water to crash into the BioDiesel or you may make an emulsion. Cap the BioDiesel/water
mix & slowly rock the bottle to its side & back upright 3 or 4 times & let it settle until they separate.
14. Separate the BioDiesel from the water by squirting out the water & wash it again the same way.
15. Repeat washing gradually adding in a bit more agitation each time (stop agitation if any sign of an
emulsion begins to form). The wash water should start out a bit milky looking the first wash &
gradually clear as you do each successive wash.
16. Once the wash water is almost translucent clear it should not form an emulsion when shaken with
water, at that point your BioDiesel is clean. Note it may take many washes to achieve this state.
17. If the BioDiesel appears to look like Orange Juice then it contains absorbed water and likely needs
further washing to remove soaps & or glycerol or it may simply need to be dried.
18. To test it & see which is causing the BioDiesel to look like O.J., pop it into your refrigerator. Let it
chill to around 40F. If it still looks like O.J. then it has residual water in it and needs to be dried. If it
separates into a fluffy cloud like layer on the bottom of the jar, you have soaps still in it and need to do
more washing.
19. Drying your test batch of BioDiesel is done by forcing it dry with heat. Force drying is accomplished
by carefully warming the BioDiesel up in the microwave or on a stove top while stirring it. Heat to
around 120F degrees or a tad warmer and carefully stir it until dry. You should notice a change in the
appearance of the BioDiesel as it dries, it should change from O.J. to looking more like oil again.
Drying your BioDiesel in this manor usually takes a relatively short period of time, an hour at most.
Once you are sure it is well washed & dried, you should do the refrigerator test again. See step #19
above.
20. Last test to see if it was made correctly is to allow it to settle over a period of a few days in your
refrigerator. Keep watch for any sign of a layer forming on the bottom of the jar, this would indicate
that you did not totally remove the soaps or glycerol in your washes.
21. Your BioDiesel is completed & fully made now. It will not appear to look much different or smell
much different than the base oil it was made from. It is however of a thinner viscosity than the base oil
& has been chemically converted into a Methyl Ester by the Transesterification process.
17
About Soap Formation
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Granny knew Soap is made by combining sodium hydroxide (Lye), water, and oil.
The water separates the sodium hydroxide, resulting in free sodium Na+ ions. The vegetable oil
triglycerides are broken apart, separating the fatty acids and glycerin. The Na+ ions attach to the fatty
acids in the same place that the alkyl groups attach during transesterification to produce BioDiesel.
The fatty acids with a sodium ion attached form a soap.
Since BioDiesel & Soap are both made with almost the same chemicals, due care must be
taken to insure one doesnt inadvertently make soap. The NaOH (Lye) is combined with the alcohol to
make sodium methoxide, which is then added to the vegetable oil. It is important that there is no water
present in the mix, or at least as little as possible. This is because water would break apart the NaOH
molecule, producing free sodium Na+ ions, which would then combine with the fatty acids to produce
soap. If the sodium is bound up in sodium methoxide, when the vegetable oil is broken apart, the
methyl groups will prefer to bond with the fatty acids, rather than sodium. This results in making
BioDiesel rather than Soap. Using too much NaOH (Lye) or too little Methanol can result in soap
development, due to the excess free Na+ sodium ions joining the fatty acids after the vegetable oil
molecules are separated.
With waste vegetable oils (WVO), free fatty acids are generally present since they form
naturally from cooking food. These free fatty acids will essentially always combine with a sodium ion
during BioDiesel processing, resulting in saponification (soap formation). Unfortunately, that is an
unavoidable result when using the base catalyzed Transesterification method. When waste vegetable
oils are used these free fatty acids consume the catalyst so extra catalyst needs to be added to account
for that. Otherwise, not enough catalyst would remain to break apart the triglycerides in the oil. The
reason we must do a titration when using waste vegetable oil (WVO) feedstock is so that we know
how much extra catalyst needs to be added to account for the catalyst that will be consumed by the
FFAs.
When WVO containing free fatty acids are used, the free fatty acids will be turned into soaps
by the catalyst. As a result, the yield of BioDiesel is lower for these oils, and the soap needs to be
removed (usually through water washing). This is why it is very important to be picky about your
source of waste vegetable oil. The more your WVO has been abused (heat oxidized) the more FFAs
will be present in it, the more soap you will make and the more washing you will have to do.
18
Titration Guide
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Why Titrate
Titration is required so that you can intelligently neutralize the naturally occurring Free Fatty Acids
(FFA) that exist in used cooking oil (WVO). Different sources & batches of WVO will have variations
in FFA content so each batch of WVO will have to be titrated for you to maximize the WVO to
BioDiesel conversion process for better yield. Since the chemical reaction that occurs in
Transesterification must be done under a slight pH base condition, it must be known how much FFA
exist in that particular batch of WVO that you are about to convert to BioDiesel.
Fresh Vegetable Oil does not contain these FFAs because most FFAs are formed when cooking food.
Dont worry though, titration is a big word for an easy process.
What is Titration
It is a procedure used to determine the amount of FFA (Free Fatty Acids) contained in your WVO or
Waste Vegetable Oil. Titration uses Phenolphthalein or one of the other pH indicator solutions listed
as a pH indicator solution to detect the amount of Fatty Acids that need to be neutralized & bring the
pH of the WVO up to around 8.5 In simple terms, you sample a known volume of your WVO &
dilute it with a known amount of solvent such as isopropanol alcohol & mix it well. Next you add in a
few drops of a pH indicator solution of your choice. You then add in drop by drop a base hydroxide
solution while sloshing it around until you see a color change & note the number of drops used. You
then know how much hydroxide to add to your WVO in order to neutralize the FFA & get best
conversion.
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Materials needed to Titrate
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1 bottle Isopropyl Alcohol of Red Bottle of Heet Gas Line Antifreeze (99% Isopropyl Alcohol)
*Note* It makes no difference that you will be using a methanol alcohol in your Process.
1 Bottle of Red Devil Lye; Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH or Potassium Hydroxide, KOH;
*Note* You must make your titration alkali with the same Alkali (Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide)
that you intend to use to make your BioDiesel with.
1 Liter of distilled water
1 bottle of any of the pH indicator solutions as detailed below under pH indicator Choices.
Tools needed to titrate

Scales capable of accurately weighing at least down to 0.1 gram
An accurate 100 ml measuring lab ware (glass or plastic) Note*
An accurate 1000ml measuring lab ware (glass or plastic) Note*
* If you cant locate this Lab ware you can weigh out the 100ml of distilled water using an accurate
scale 1ml = 1gram so 100ml = 100grams
10cc CLEAN Oral Syringe or 10ml graduated cylinder Note*
1cc Syringe or an eye dropper Note*
5cc Syringe or 5ml graduated cylinder Note*
2cc Syringe or 1ml graduated cylinder Note*
* Ok to Label & reuse Syringes, do not contaminate the Oil syringes with your Alkali Syringes or
Indicator Syringe.
1 Eye dropper if making pH indicator out of Turmeric
2 to 4 disposable Glass jars like small baby food jars (lids (optional) are a good idea).
2 liter soda pop bottles (Transparent Clear) or glass Mason Jars with new lids.
pH indicator Choices
You can use any of these pH indicator solutions, listed by order of preference.
1 bottle of .1% Phenolphthalein ** in 50% isopropyl alcohol & 50% water, Indicator Solution
1 bottle of home made Turmeric ++ indicator solution.
1 bottle of Phenol Red indicator solution.
1 bottle of home made Red Cabbage indicator solution.
** Phenolphthalein changes from colorless to pink

++ Turmeric has one color change: yellow to red.
Other indicators have more color changes (like cabbage) where there is an "intermediate" crimson that
occurs just before the "guava red" change which is quite obvious.
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Home Made Turmeric pH Indicator solution
You must be really careful because it will stain anything it touches a mustard yellow color
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1. Place " of turmeric spice (buy it from your favorite spice isle in your grocery store) in a 15ml
(oz) medicine dropper bottle.
2. Place a cotton ball about the diameter of the bottle on top of the turmeric.
3. Fill with 100% isopropyl alcohol from the Red bottle of Heat brand fuel dryer.
4. Suck up the alcohol after it collects color & put it into a small brown glass medicine bottle with a
dropper top.
5. Replenish with alcohol as needed until the yellow color becomes weak.
6. The dropper pipette keeps the cotton in place and the cotton keeps the turmeric powder separate
from the solution.
7. Place it in a tightly capped amber glass bottle.
Or
1. Place a teaspoon of turmeric spice in a coffee filter done up tea bag style.
2. Dunk it in about 100 cc of 100% isopropyl alcohol from the Red bottle of Heat brand fuel dryer &
let it sit for an evening (corked).
3. Gently & carefully Squeeze it out in the morning (Squeeze it with Saran wrap or be sure to wear
surgical gloves to prevent yellow staining of your hands). It can be cloudy if inadequately filtered
but will settle out over time.
4. Store it in an amber colored glass bottle.
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Home Made Red Cabbage pH Indicator solution
While not the best PH indicator for BioDiesel use, it will work in a pinch.
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Do not use Metal when making this PH Indicator solution!
1. Using 1/2 head of *red* cabbage, Chop the cabbage into small pieces until you have about 2 cups of
chopped cabbage. Place the cabbage in a large beaker or other glass container and add boiling water to
cover the cabbage. Allow at least ten minutes for the color to leach out of the cabbage. (Alternatively,
you can place about 2 cups of cabbage in a blender, cover it with boiling water, and blend it.)
2. Filter out the plant material with coffee filters to obtain a red-purple-bluish colored liquid. This liquid
is at about pH 7. (The exact color you get depends on the pH of the water.)
3. Allow the liquid to cool, then pour your red cabbage indicator into an amber glass bottle & cap tightly.
4. If desired, you can make your own pH paper strips using red cabbage indicator. Take filter paper (or
coffee filter) and soak it in a concentrated red cabbage juice solution. After a few hours, remove the
paper and allow it to dry (hang it by a clothespin or string). Cut the filter into strips and use them to
test the pH of various solutions.
Or go to http://www.chemistryland.com/CHM107Lab/Lab1/Lab1PreparingCabbageExtract.htm
Cabbage Indicator PH Color Chart
2 4 6 8 10 12
pH
Blue- Greenish
Color Red Purple Violet Blue Green Yellow
22
Titration Preparation Steps
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*For brevity, let me state that when doing liquid measurements of any kind, always measure from the
meniscus (lowest part of the curve of liquid) & when calibrating a syringe to always leave a small air
gap between the plunger in a syringe & the liquid for better measurement & dispensing accuracy.
Calibration of the 1cc & 5cc Syringe

1. Carefully * fill a 5cc syringe to the 5cc mark with Distilled water.
2. Slowly drop by drop, count how many drops until the syringe is empty!
3. Divide the number of drops by 5 if calibrating a 5cc syringe or by 1 of calibrating a 1cc syringe..
4. This number is the number of drops per cc or per ml.
5. Write that calibration number on the syringe & put clear tape over it for future reference.
Alternate method if you have a very accurate .01 gram scale or access to one you can count the
number of drops required to equal 1 gram of distilled water (1ml of distilled water weighs 1 gram.
( write down the number of drops on the syringe & cover with clear tape for future reference)
Making an Accurate .1% Alkali Solution

(Must use the same type of Hydroxide (Potassium Hydroxide or Sodium Hydroxide) that you are making BioDiesel with.)
1. Accurately place1000ml of distilled water in a clean 2 Liter bottle or Quart Mason jar by either
using Lab ware to measure it or weighing it out with a scale accurate to at least +/- 0.5 gram.
2. Accurately place 900ml of distilled water in a clean 2 Liter bottle or Quart Mason jar by either
using Lab ware to measure it or weighing it out with a scale accurate to at least +/- 0.5 gram.
3. Quickly yet accurately weigh out 10 grams of your Hydroxide (Lye will rapidly absorb water from
the air & degrade quickly not to mention it will change weight as it sucks up water)
4. Place that Hydroxide into the 1000ml of Distilled water in the 2 Liter bottle or Quart glass jar &
dissolve.
5. Pour 100ml of that hydroxide solution into the 900ml of distilled water you put into the other 2
Liter bottle or Quart jar to make an accurate .1% Alkali Solution. Mix thoroughly & always keep
tightly capped.
6. Each day decant out what you will need for that day so you never contaminate your base stock!
7. Keep this base stock 1000ml of .1% Alkali Solution tightly caped between usage since absorbing
carbon dioxide out of the air will cause it to degrade rendering it useless. Glass works best for this.
8. Kept clean, air tight & out of the sunlight it will last you for a very long time.
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Titration How to Do it
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1. Pour Isopropyl alcohol into a baby food jar until full.
2. From that jar Measure out 10ml (10cc is the same thing) of Isopropyl alcohol into a lab ware
cylinder, or pipette, or a 10cc syringe
3. Put this 10ml of Isopropyl alcohol into a clean dry baby food jar.
4. This is the carrier solvent jar we will use for our titration.
5. Add to this three drops of your Indicator solution such as the.1% Phenolphthalein Indicator
solution.
6. Note: Alcohols degrade over time & produce acids so we will need to pH blank our solution. Add
the .1% Alkali Solution from a 1cc syringe or eyedropper drop by single drop while swirling &
watch for a color change. Stop adding drops at the first sign of color change (Pinkish Purple for
Phenolphthalein), the solution should stay that color for a brief period of time & then turn clear
again.
7. Now that you have a Blanked neutral carrier you are ready to titrate the WVO.
8. Using a clean 2cc syringe, suck up 1ml of WVO oil then add it to the jar of Blanked solution.
Note: If your oil is solid or thick, heat it in the microwave gently for 5 seconds just until warm
before adding it to the alcohol!
9. The color of the mixture at this stage should be uniformly yellow & should not have beads of oil,
keep mixing the alcohol & WVO until it is completely uniform or your results will suffer.
10. Using a clean 5cc Syringe, suck up 5cc of the .1% Alkali Solution. Note: never put any of this
back into the source jar or you risk contamination.
11. Slowly add this .1% Alkali Solution drop by drop to the oil mixture counting each drop while
mixing very well & monitor for a color change after every drop!
12. Once you see the color change that lasts for at least 10 seconds while dropping & mixing STOP!
Note: color change is dependent on pH indicator usedsee chart below Pink, Purple or Red
13. Write down the number of drops you used before you forget.
14. Ok, now repeat the whole thing one more time you should get the same number of drops.
15. This is your Raw Titration Number.
16. Divide this number by the number of drops per 1ml that you wrote on the syringe.
17. This is your Actual Titration Value expressed as Grams per Liter.
18. For Sodium Hydroxide go to step #19, For Potassium Hydroxide go to step #20
19. To determine the amount of Sodium Hydroxide to use take the Titration Value you got in step 17
and add 4.5 to the number, this will be the amount of Sodium Hydroxide you will need per Liter of
WVO that you intend to make your batch of BioDiesel out of.
20. To determine the amount of Potassium Hydroxide to use take the Titration Value you got in step
17 and add 7 to the number, this will be the amount of Potassium Hydroxide you will need per
Liter of WVO that you intend to make your batch of BioDiesel out of.
21. Now that you know how much Lye Catalyst (Hydroxide) to use per liter, make a 1Liter test batch
out of your WVO to insure you titrated correctly. If you make 1 Liter of BioDiesel then you did it
right. If you make 1 Liter of Glop then you better try your titration again. Better to make1 Liter of
Glop than 40 gallons of it!
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How to make Methoxide
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Do not breathe the Methoxide fumes and be very careful of getting any of this mixture on
your skin because it will cause permanent nerve damage & severe chemical burns which you can
not feel happening since your nerves are dead. If Methoxide gets splashed onto your skin, rinse
well with COLD water (water dilutes the chemical & the cold will slow down the reaction), then
flush with the area with vinegar (a weak acid) to kill the Hydroxide (a strong base agent), rinse
with COLD water again, blot dry (DO NOT RUB!) & check to see if you require medical
attention. NEVER allow Methoxide, Hydroxide or Lye to contact anything made of Aluminum!
Mixing Methoxide in a Steel container
1. Put on appropriate PPE (Personal Protective Equipment).
2. Take the titrated (grams per liter of hydroxide required) of the WVO to be processed & add 3
to 5 grams per liter of hydroxide to account for the base oil. We suggest adding 4.5 grams to
the titration value.
3. Multiply the total amount of hydroxide required from step 2 above times the total amount of
WVO to be processed (in Liters). Weigh out the Hydroxide & place it in a sealed container
until ready to mix.
4. Calculate the amount of methanol you will need. Use between 20% & 25% methanol as vol/vol
of the WVO being processed. Thus 40 gallons of WVO at 22.5% vol/vol of methanol = 9
gallons of methanol.
5. Dispense the methanol into a steel container preferably one with a lid. A 5 gallon steel pain
pail with a lid works well for this. If you do not have a container large enough for the entire
volume of methanol needed, simply split the amount in half & make 2 smaller batches of it.
6. Gently pour the hydroxide into the methanol ( Not the other way around! ) & with a cover on
the container (a small hole for a mixing paddle is acceptable). Mix the methanol & hydroxide.
Beware that the methoxide will get HOT around 120F when these two chemicals get mixed. A
drill with a steel paint mixing rod can be used but if you go this route please use very adequate
ventilation, keep the container covered & keep a charged water hose nearby because methanol
fumes can be ignited by sparks from the drill motor.
7. Decant this mixture into a steel or very heavy duty plastic container & seal it up. Occasionally
rock it back & forth a bit to mix & keep doing this periodically until all the hydroxide gets
dissolved into the methanol. Generally you can tell when the reaction stops because the
temperature will begin to cool off. This is where a non-contact pocket hand held IR reading
thermometer really comes in handy.
8. DO NOT STORE METHOXIDE for any extended length of time. Besides being hazardous, it
will absorb moisture out of the air and go bad quickly. At most make it an hour or two before
you will be needing it & keep it tightly sealed at all times.
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An alternative way to mix Methoxide in a Plastic Carboy
1. Making Methoxide can be done in a heavy duty plastic carboy container, just be sure it has a
good sealing cap, is made of very heavy plastic which can safely handle the nearly 120F
temperature that results when the Lye & Methanol are combined.
2. In the case of a Plastic Carboy, do not mix it with a drill. To mix the Lye & Methanol, cap the
container after putting in the methanol (first) then adding the Lye (second) and then
immediately begin to shake the carboy as hard as you can for a while. Repeat this as required
until the Lye is totally dissolved. Do not uncap to view the Methoxide contents as the container
will be under pressure & it would be very likely that you would get some on you as the
pressure gets released.
3. Occasionally rock the Carboy back & forth a bit to mix & keep doing this periodically until all
the hydroxide gets dissolved into the methanol. Generally you can tell when the reaction stops
because the temperature will begin to cool off. This is where a non-contact pocket hand held IR
reading thermometer really comes in handy.
4. DO NOT STORE METHOXIDE for any extended length of time. Besides being hazardous, it
will absorb moisture out of the air and go bad quickly. At most make it an hour or two before
you will be needing it & keep it tightly sealed at all times
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Preparation to making your Big Batch of BioDiesel
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Where to Begin
This is the point where you need to start meeting restaurant owners & convincing them that
you are a reliable person that will stand behind your promise to pick up their WVO regularly & be neat
about it. You will be surprised at how many owners & managers will be agreeable to your offer once
they hear about your recycling efforts. They will also like that you provide Free WVO pickup services
provided you can convince them you will be reliable. Start doing your leg work now, dress neatly,
look business like, dont jump at the first place that says yes until you qualify their WVO & good
luck!
How & Where to obtain the very best WVO

Some of the very best high volume WVO comes from Chinese Buffets, the bigger the better.
Another source of top notch WVO can be obtained from high priced French restaurants or Swiss
Fondue restaurants. Some of these high priced places only use the oil one time & then toss it into the
WVO collection tank. Unless you can use a large amount of WVO, perhaps you can convince a local
potato chip factory to give you a small quantity of WVO since they usually do not over use their oil,
just be sure they put it into your container & dont tell you to just get it out of the rendering service
providers tank (legal issues about theft)! Contact a number of local Restaurants, preferably face to
face. Tell them you can save them money by removing their WVO for free. Explain what you are
going to do with the WVO then ask permission to inspect & do a titration test of the WVO in their
collection tank to see if it is suitable for your purposes. Check out the oil by titrating it a couple of
times on the spot. If you get a number above 3, you might want to reconsider, if you get a number
above 5 or 6 you better do some soul searching & if you get a number above 7 you better look
elsewhere. Look for evidence of water in the tank or the smell of vinegar (indicating sugar), look for
hardened grease indicating they dump the nasty grill grease in with it, look for indications of a lot of
hard material (crumbs) in the bottom of the tank which could clog up your pump. If they cook items
with sugar or sugar water on them, you may want to reconsider as sugar can be a pain to remove from
WVO, normally requiring heating & water washes to remove it..
One trick you can try provided the WVO is liquid enough, is to do some dipping & check
the bottom of the tank to see how thick the nasty layer is. Usually the WVO will stratify & the lighter
oils will float to the top while the thicker oils & crumbs will settle to the bottom. You can test for this
thick stuff if you have a stiff piece of tubing such as a piece of soft copper tubing long enough to
reach the bottom of the tank. Simply, put your thumb over the end of the tubing & poke it down to the
bottom of the tank. Once it hits bottom, lift it up slightly & take your finger off the end. Now the oil
should seek its own level & fill the tube with the bottom contents until it reached the same level as the
lighter oil. If you wait a bit for this to happen, you can put your thumb back on the end of the tube then
lift out the copper tubing & quickly put the open end over a clean catch container & remove your
thumb. The contents from the bottom of the tank should now drop into the catch container for you to
examine. Look to see just how viscous this stuff is, how thick is the layer & does it contain any water?
You could try stirring the WVO in the tank to see if the bottom contains a lot of hard crud. Generally
examine the WVO to see how well they treat it.
27
While at the tank, look around & check for trash in the tank. Some places have a problem with
vandalism, in these cases you may find beer bottles, plastic bags & all sorts of trash inside the tank.
These things can be a big problem to deal with & can clog up your equipment. Ask the restaurant if
this has been a problem. If this is the case & you can afford to be picky, you may want to locate
another restaurant to collect WVO from.
Large chain restaurants will have corporate contractual obligations that will not allow
flexibility so do not bother with asking big chain restaurants such as McDonalds & the like. Go during
a time of the day that the restaurant is not busy, ask to speak to the manager & politely explain to him
or her that you are experimenting with making an alternative fuel called BioDiesel. The manager will
likely not know what this is but explain that you would like to take away his used Vegetable Oil for
free. Waste Vegetable Oil is not considered a hazardous waste by the EPA, however normally
restaurants must pay a rendering service to remove the old waste vegetable oil between 10 to 20 cents
a gallon. Politely explain that you would like to leave your own COVERED Waste Oil collection
drum behind his restaurant & will be dropping by to collect the waste oil on a regular basis. Talk him
or her into using your service & dropping the rendering service that they must pay for. Promise you
will be regular, not leave a mess & then stand behind your promise! One thing that will not be
tolerated is a mess or an over flowing waste oil drum! Do either one & you will quickly find yourself
no longer welcome!
Once you have located a good place to collect WVO, give them an agreement paper detailing
your requirements & what you must have if you are going to remove their WVO for free. Ensure the
restaurant owner, manager & cooks all understand that you must have Clean Dry WVO. No cleaning
water, soap, or grill waste should be allowed to contaminate the oil, provide a separate container for
grill waste if necessary & find a way to quietly dispose of it yourself.
The only times Ive had any trouble getting an owner to agree with Free WVO pickup were
with the ones that had gotten burned by unreliable persons promising to do the same type of free
pickups. Generally it costs the business money to have the rendering company pick up the collection
container & if you prove unreliable, it costs them again to have the container returned. Be aware that
since the rendering company usually charges for delivery & removal of their WVO containers, in
some cases the restaurant may want you to pay to have the rendering companys tank removed. This
usually is somewhere around a $50 fee if it is a large dumpster type of WVO collection container.
28
Legalities of WVO collection
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WARNING, never take waste oil from someone elses waste oil collection container! The WVO
belongs to the restaurant until it gets put into the tank & then it belongs to the owner of that tank not
the restaurant. Rendering Companies get paid as much as $0.15 a Lb or $1.25 a gallon for Yellow
Grease also known as WVO. They are naturally vigilant about theft & Stealing Yellow Grease or
WVO from a rendering companys tank constitutes theft in most states! Purchase & use your own
drums or containers, ideally paint a business name (you can make one up) & your phone number so
the owner knows who to contact if it gets full or need servicing on each of them explaining the
contents are yours & removal constitutes theft. Restaurants normally must pay the rendering company
for waste grease collection services. If the restaurant has a written contract with a rendering company,
it may state that they are locked into using the rendering companies services for a period of time, if
this is the case you may have your work cut out breaking the contract or waiting for the contract to
lapse & imposing your own with the restaurant or being satisfied with a verbal agreement that they
will use your Free WVO collection services. Fortunately though if it proves too much of a hassle at a
particular restaurant, a lot of other suitable restaurants exist so try another one down the street if the
one you want is locked into a contract. Sometimes the rendering company will try a scare tactic with
the restaurant owner telling them you are not licensed to remove their WVO. See the EPA link below,
copy it & give that to the restaurant owner. WVO is not considered hazardous waste & since you are
not collecting it for commercial purposes & are likely transporting less than 150 gallons, the collection
law would not apply to you anyway..
Some very good information on how the EPA views Waste Vegetable Oil handling, see these links.
EPA Regulations regarding WVO spills read..
http://www.epa.gov/oilspill/pdfs/0703_40cfr112.pdf
29
EPA Definition of What Used Oil is and isnt
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http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/usedoil/usedoil.htm
The US EPA's regulatory definition of used oil is as follows:
Used oil is any oil that has been refined from crude oil or any synthetic oil that has been used
and as a result of such use is contaminated by physical or chemical impurities. Simply put, used oil is
exactly what its name implies--any petroleum-based or synthetic oil that has been used. During normal
use, impurities such as dirt, metal scrapings, water, or chemicals can get mixed in with the oil, so that
in time the oil no longer performs well. Eventually, this used oil must be replaced with virgin or re-
refined oil to do the job at hand EPA's used oil management standards include a three-pronged
approach to determine if a substance meets the definition of used oil. To meet EPA's definition of used
oil, a substance must meet each of the following three criteria:
Origin the first criterion for identifying used oil is based on the origin of the oil. Used oil must have been
refined from crude oil or made from synthetic materials. Animal and vegetable oils are excluded from EPA's
definition of used oil.
Use the second criterion is based on whether and how the oil is used. Oils used as lubricants, hydraulic
fluids, heat transfer fluids, buoyants, and for other similar purposes are considered used oil. Unused oil such as
bottom clean-out waste from virgin fuel oil storage tanks or virgin fuel oil recovered from a spill, do not meet
EPA's definition of used oil because these oils have never been "used." EPA's definition also excludes products
used as cleaning agents or solely for their solvent properties, as well as certain petroleum-derived products like
antifreeze and kerosene.
Contaminants the third criterion is based on whether or not the oil is contaminated with either physical or
chemical impurities. In other words, to meet EPA's definition, used oil must become contaminated as a result of
being used. This aspect of EPA's definition includes residues and contaminants generated from handling,
storing, and processing used oil. Physical contaminants could include metal shavings, sawdust, or dirt.
Chemical contaminants could include solvents, halogens, or saltwater.
Used Oil Is:* Used Oil Is Not:

Synthetic oil usually derived from Waste oil that is bottom clean-out waste
coal, shale, or polymer-based from virgin fuel storage tanks, virgin fuel
starting material. oil spill cleanups, or other oil wastes that
Engine oil typically includes have not actually been used.
gasoline and diesel engine Products such as antifreeze and
crankcase oils and piston-engine kerosene.
oils for automobiles, trucks, boats, Vegetable and animal oil, even
airplanes, locomotives, and heavy when used as a lubricant.
equipment.
Petroleum distillates used as solvents.
Transmission fluid.
Refrigeration oil.
Oils that do not meet EPA's
Compressor oils.
definition of used oil can still
Metalworking fluids and oils.
pose a threat to the
Laminating oils. environment when disposed of
Industrial hydraulic fluid. and could be subject to the
Copper and aluminum wire drawing RCRA regulations for
solution. hazardous waste management.
* This list does not include all

types of used oil.
30
How to make BioDiesel
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The bad news is that every batch of WVO is different so you cant use a standard recipe.
The good news is that it is not hard to figure out how much chemical to use & in what proportions.
Mix time depends on temperature and on how well or long you want the reaction to go.
For a virtually full reaction it takes 1 hour at 122F; 2 hours at 104F, or 4 hours at 86F.
For safety, some people turn off the heater after the WVO reaches 130F, before adding the
Methoxide & mix it for 2 hours while watching the temperature to insure it stays above 120F.
1. Insure your WVO & process tanks are dry & contain absolutely NO WATER!
2. If your WVO contains water, drying will first be required, Read How to Dry WVO.
3. Pump your WVO into your Process Reactor tank.
4. Start the WVO mixing system.
5. Begin heating your WVO to between 120F and 130F degrees
6. Titrate the WVO.
7. Measure out 20 to 25% vol/vol of the WVO in Methanol & pour it into the Methoxide mix tank.
Note: for best conversion use 25%, for cheaper processing use 20%, I use 22.5% myself.
8. Quickly measure the appropriate amount of Sodium Hydroxide. See Titration Guide
9. Pour the Sodium Hydroxide into the Methoxide mix tank. note: spread it around so it doesnt
clump and NEVER put methanol into hydroxide, always put hydroxide into methanol.
10. Read Methoxide Mixing Insure the Methanol & the Hydroxide are completely mixed & the
Hydroxide is fully dissolved.
11. Slowly suck the Methoxide mixture into your hot mixing 40 gallons of WVO, this should take
around 15 to 20 minutes.
12. Continue to mix while monitoring the 120F to 130F mixture temperature for a period of 1 hour.
13. Stop the mixing system so the glycerin settles out to the bottom. Note: After about ten minutes, the
beginning of BioDiesel & Glycerol separation can be seen.
14. Wait 1 to 4 hours then drain the Glycerol from the bottom of the Reactor tank along with a small
amount of BioDiesel Ester. Also clear the BioDiesel pump out port of Glycerol while your at it.
Note: Provided the glycerol isnt too hot, the Oil cubes from the restaurant work well for this
glycerol storage. After about eight hours the glycerin molecules would have settled almost
completely to the bottom of the container and the methyl esters (BioDiesel) would be on top,
however when using Sodium Hydroxide the chances are that the glycerol would have hardened up
on you once it cooled which would make it difficult to remove.
15. Place the waste Glycerol cubes off to one side. Later after it settles a day or so, you can separate
any BioDiesel that got carried into the cube off the top of the glycerol. Drain it off & save it for
your next wash batch.
16. Pump the remaining Raw BioDiesel Ester from the process tank BioDiesel pump out port into your
wash tank.
17. Begin Mist Washing your still warm BioDiesel, follow the instructions in the Washing Guide.
18. Allow BioDiesel to settle overnight so any remaining water can settle out.
19. After Washing your BioDiesel you will need to Dry it. Follow instructions in the Drying Guide.
20. Pump & filter your BioDiesel through a 10 micron filter into a storage tank.
21. When ready to use this BioDiesel, pump & filter it through a 2 micron filter & into your vehicle.
31
Suggested BioDiesel Processing Materials
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Never use: reactive metals such as Aluminum, Tin or Zinc to make BioDiesel with. Do not use
Natural Rubber or Nitril components as they will soften & deteriorate from the BioDiesel Methyl
Ester.
Use with caution: Copper or Zinc oxide metal contamination from BioDiesel being in contact with
copper or zinc or galvanized metal is a concern if you are going to store your BioDiesel for an
extended time while in contact with it because the metals may leach out into your BioDiesel.
OK to use: Tanks made of Steel, Stainless Steel, or High Density Polyethylene Plastic (provided you
use due caution if heating),. Materials such as Glass, Iron, all are ok to use. Copper tubing can be used
if the BioDiesel will not remain exposed to it for an extended time. Either way, keep air away from
stored BioDiesel by storing in a full sealed container out of the weather & sun. You should not store
your BioDiesel more than a 3 to 6 months or it may turn bad, especially if it still retains water. NOTE:
If using a Plastic Tank, keep the heat below the safe operating temperature for the plastic material or it
will soften then leak creating a fire hazard & huge mess! Typically 120F degrees is ok for HDPE
tanks. Generally but not always, these tanks are good up to 140F degrees or a tad higher before they
soften & leak. Either way it would be prudent to reinforce any pipe connections with clamps as well &
never hang pipe by relying on the tank or plastic to provide support. NEVER leave the immediate area
while processing BioDiesel because leaking methanol poses a fire hazard.
Test Batch Equipment: To make a test batch for experimentation you can use a common clear 2 liter
plastic soda pop bottle to make your BioDiesel in. 1 Liter batches are easily made this way. Just do not
mix your methoxide in a plastic bottle as the methoxide will craze the plastic, pressurize the container
& leak severely! It is usually ok to put your 1 liter of oil into it & then add the required amount of
premixed methoxide, cap tight & shake a while to mix. Some people use an old Blender to make test
batches in. Use a glass mason jar with a tight fitting lid to make the Methoxide in for your test batch.
Note: Prudence dictates you should never use any of this equipment for food items again.
PPE: Personal protective equipment should be included in your list of BioDiesel processing
equipment required. Appropriate protective chemical gloves, splash apron, foot covering such as
rubber boots, Face shield are all highly recommended.
32
Hardware & Equipment needed to make a volume batch
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BioDiesel Mixing tank: Can be made of Steel, Stainless Steel, or HDPE, all should be sealed or
covered to eliminate loss of the methanol & dangerous fumes from escaping.
Methoxide Mixing tank: Can be made of same materials as the BioDiesel Mixing Tank & enclosed.
Mixing Pump or Paddle: Either type can be used to mix with.
Numerous ball valves: Can be made of Brass & Stainless Steel, shy away from plastic ball valves.
Pipe or Plumbing: Use Gray plastic or preferably Black iron Pipe not galvanized pipe unless no
other choice.
Chemical resistant tubing: Can use Vinyl Tubing, use the cord reinforced type if pressurized.
Wash Tank (optional): Can be made of HDPE or Steel. Note: A cone bottom tank makes draining
easier.
BioDiesel Storage drum: Can be a steel drum or HDPE. But dont store it more than a 3 - 6 months.
Heater: This is a must! Without heat, your process times will be ridiculously long (perhaps days).
Placed in the processor, the heater keeps the BioDiesel reactor oil warm to speed up transesterification,
you can use a heater element in your reaction tank or in your plumbing (provided you use a pump
mixing system) to mix your BioDiesel while it Transesterifies. Use a large enough heater to heat the
WVO in a reasonable amount of time & yet not so big that it burns the WVO or overheats & burns
out. We highly recommend using a heater in the tank provided you are not using a Plastic processing
tank. In a steel processor using around 1000 to 2000 watts of heat in a 40 gallon batch of WVO seems
a good balance. Note that we mention 1000 to 2000 watts of heat & not an element wattage size
read more on this HERE
If using a Plastic processing tank we suggest going to hydronic heating or an external heater element
that you flow the WVO through. If you use a heating element inside a Plastic Tank it could soften &
pose a serious fire hazard due to leaking methanol!
You can optionally use a 1000Watt commercial drum heating band on an insulated WVO storage tank
to warm it up so that it pumps easier in cold weather. These band heaters come with a steep price tag
though & if you can store your WVO in a warm area it would save you some dough.
33
10 step BioDiesel OVERVIEW
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1. Pump the Waste Vegetable Oil into your BioDiesel processor tank through a piece of aluminum
window screen to remove any really big chunks of cooking crud.
2. Begin mixing & heating the WVO.
3. Mix chemicals to the strength indicated by the PH of the oil (an easy test).
4. When the oil in the tank reaches 120 F slowly feed the methoxide mix into your processor.
5. Mix for 1 hour, (longer if the oil temperature goes below 120 F).
6. After mixing, let settle at least ~ 1 to 4 hours for the Glycerol to settle out.
7. Wash the warm BioDiesel, as many times as required until the water is clear or slightly
translucent.
8. Dry the BioDiesel either by static drying (letting it sit) or by pumping it fountain style for
evaporation (heating is optional).
9. Test the BioDiesel for water & soap by chilling it in the refrigerator.
10. Washed, Dried & 10 micron to 2 micron Filtered BioDiesel should be ideally be allowed to settle a
few days for any residual soap to settle out before use in your Vehicle.
34
Detailed BioDiesel OVERVIEW
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1. Collect a volume of Waste Vegetable Oil.
2. Filter out any really big chunks of crud with a window screen, remaining crud is small enough not
to clog up your pump or contain much water, dont worry about them as they will fall out of
suspension along with the Glycerol Waste.
3. Put the WVO into the processor tank & begin heating & mixing.
4. Titrate the WVO for pH value (Titration is an easy thing to do, dont let the name scare you).
5. Mix the Methoxide to the strength indicated by your titration.
6. Periodically shake up your Methoxide mix & feel container to see if it is warm.
7. Shake the Methoxide mixture & keep doing this periodically until it is cool after shaking the
container.
8. When the WVO in your tank reaches 120F & your methoxide is fully mixed go to step 9.
9. Start slowly feeding the Methoxide mix into your processor while mixing the WVO, this should
take around 10 to 15 minutes to feed in.
10. Start timing, mix for 1 hour, or longer if the temperature goes of the mixture goes below 120 F.
11. Stop Mixing, let settle at least ~ 1 to 4 hours for the bulk of the Glycerol waste to settle to the
bottom of the tank.
12. IMPORTANT! Decant the Raw Glycerol out of your tank before it cools off. Once cool it may
harden & become very difficult to remove from the tank & plumbing.
13. Use a Stand Tank washer (Optional) to wash your still warm BioDiesel.
14. Mist wash the BioDiesel.
15. Turn off the water or bubbler & let it sit undisturbed until the water settles out to the bottom.
16. Separate the BioDiesel from the water after the water settles out. A Stand Pipe washer helps a lot
here because you can periodically drain the tank while still mist washing.
17. Perform steps 14- 16 as many times as required until the BioDiesel is slightly translucent when
you drain it out.
18. Leaving the last mist wash water in the stand pipe washer, place a Bubble Ring into the tank &
Bubble Wash over night then remove the bubbler, allow to stand an hour examine BD & if clear go
to step 19, if not then add 7 to 9 gallons of water & bubble wash a few more hours & re-examine.
19. Test your BioDiesel to see if it is washed enough. (Use the shake test) Put water & BioDiesel in a
2 Liter pop bottle & shake it up good & hard, if it separates out good! If it forms an emulsion
keep washing!
20. Dry the BioDiesel, we use Air circulation with heat to dry it (heat is optional) by pumping &
recirculating the moist BioDiesel through the air like a fountain, moisture can evaporate.
Depending on relative humidity, Air Circulation Drying can dry your BioDiesel in as short as 1
hour's time or if this is too expensive read our section on alternative drying methods.
21. Test your BioDiesel for water using the microwave heating & weighing method, test for soap by
using the (refrigeration test).
22. Once verified as dry, Filter your freshly made BioDiesel through a 10 micron or a 2 micron filter
& put it into your Vehicle! We suggest you allow your newly made BioDiesel to settle a few days
so any un-processed FFAs or minor residual soap. Test by putting some in a sealed mason jar &
monitor it over a few days time looking for settling deposits on the bottom of the jar.
35
How to Build a BioDiesel Processor
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All about Choices

Numerous ways of making a process tank exist. You have choices to make regarding the tank
design features. A fumeless or low fume processor is a must both for health reasons & to prevent loss
of expensive methanol while processing. Loss of methanol alcohol can have an adverse impact on the
transesterification process. Two basic methods exist for building a processor; other options do exist,
however they will not be discussed here. As with everything else in life, nothing is perfect & the same
can be said of the 2 different processors we will discuss & detail building.
The Appleseed style Processor

It is constructed of a hot water heater & is of a totally sealed design. Some claim, it is totally
fumeless and it is much touted as such for health reasons, however this claim we feel is untrue. While
the process tank itself is fumeless, you still need to mix the methoxide manually outside of the
processor which still carries the potential for fume & liquid exposure, a problem common with most
all home built processor designs and you must empty the tank with still warm contents exposing you to
Methanol fumes. Being fumeless is good, however being permanently sealed is not. This design has
limitations that you need to be aware of.
AppleSeed Pros:
Claimed as Fumeless design
No welding required
Fairly simple to build
Cheap or free to obtain an old used tank
Recycled tank is good for environment
AppleSeed Cons:
Does not eliminate Methoxide exposure since you must remove contents hot
Does not eliminate Methoxide exposure you still make Methoxide by hand.
Heater element cannot be cleaned regularly resulting in built up crud causing premature failure.
The BioDiesel cannot be examined
If glycerol hardens inside the tank it can & is very difficult to remove
Cannot rinse out contaminates such as Sterates that stick to tank walls & will contaminate next batch
Cannot clean tank between batches for higher quality finished BioDiesel.
Requires another tank to wash BioDiesel making for larger foot print & more expense
Requires another tank to dry BioDiesel making for larger foot print & more expense
Expensive to build if using a new tank
Very hard to remove corroded pipes from an old water heater tank
Very difficult to get years of accumulated crud out of an old tank
BioDiesel & Glycerol Contents can never be totally emptied from one batch to the next
36
The AppleSeed Processor Design Back to index
This processor is not of our design, we do not recommend this design and we are simply
providing the information for you to compare processor designs, we cannot control the plans for this
processor design. So if you desire to see Appleseed BioDiesel Processor plans, please visit this web
site http://www.BioDieselcommunity.org/appleseedprocessor/
AppleSeed Materials list Note: All plumbing uses black iron pipe unless otherwise noted.
Water Heater
3 pipe nipple
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee
close nipples 7
ball valves- 5
cross fitting 4 way
Bushing: 3/4 by 1/2- need 2
1/2 close nipple- 2
1/2" swing CHECK VALVE
1/2 ball valve-2
Nylon or Brass 90degree male 1/2" thread-to-3/8 barb fitting + hose clamp
4 foot Length of 3/8 vinyl tubing
straight or 90 degree 1/2 inch to 3/8 barb nylon or brass hose fitting + hose clamp
3/4 Hose
3/4" hose barb
3 hose clamps
1 or 2 feet of vinyl tubing as a drain/filler tube clear color
union
tee
1 by 3/4 bushings- 2
Length of BRAIDED 3/4 vinyl hose
90degree elbows-2
pipe nipple 12 to 18 to fit
2 pipe nipple- 2
Teflon pipe tape
Mechanical Automotive temperature gauge
Plumbing to attach to water heaters pressure relief vent for fume venting
Water heater strapping, or other earthquake strapping for attaching the processor to your wall studs
Note: plumbers pipe strap is not sturdy enough to support the weight of this machine in case of
earthquake.
Pump: This is a 1 Clear Water Pump from Harbor Freight Tools - $35.
Heating elements and thermostats - disable the upper heating element and thermostat in a two-
thermostat water heater processor- as the upper heating element is above the oil level youre heating &
is not needed.
14 gauge power cord wire
Standard Grounded 110VAC plug
37
The Basic Low Fume 55 gallon Steel tank Processor
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This processor is constructed out of a standard 55 gallon open top steel drum. While not totally
fumeless, it is of a relatively low fume design provided a blank undamaged deep steel drum lid & cam
style lid clamp ring are used. As with the fumeless Apple seed design, you still have the potential fume
& liquid exposure problem common with most all home built processor designs while mixing the
methoxide so we always suggest you make your BioDiesel with plenty of outside air ventilation.
The Basic Low Fume processor is the core design used to make the Improved and the
All In One processors that you will see later in this chapter. The Improved design includes a mini
dam at the fuel drain port to eliminate glycerol contamination and to eliminate vortex problems while
draining. The All In One processor includes the mini dam plus a stand pipe to make this tank truly
convertible into a fuel wash tank. The All In One has a very small footprint for those with limited
space and smaller budgets.
This Low Fume Processor design has some limitations that you need to be aware of.
Low Fume Pros:

The BioDiesel can be examined
If glycerol hardens inside the tank it can be removed
Can use tank to wash BioDiesel
Can use tank to dry BioDiesel
Contents can be totally emptied & tank can be rinsed out
Cheap to build if using a new 55 gallon open top steel drum
Cheap or free to obtain a nice used 55 gallon open top steel drum
No leaky or corroded pipe fittings to deal with from an old tank as all pipe fittings are new
Recycled steel drum is good for environment
Low Fume Cons:

Not entirely Fumeless in design (Very low fume however)
Does not eliminate potential Methoxide exposure when mixing chemicals
Paint will eventually peel from inside the tank (once it is off no further problem)
Slightly more difficult to build than Appleseed since welding or brazing is required
Potential for some construction expense if you cannot weld & must take it to a welding shop
A simple tank stand is required to elevate the tank to make room for the plumbing
38
Construction Tips the Low Fume 55 gallon Steel Processor
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The 55 gallon Low Fume Processor is constructed from a commonly available new or used
Open Top 55 gallon steel drum. You should obtain one with a removable solid blank deep lid & that
has a cam style lid clamp ring with it. The lid will have a rubber seal in the lip, the rubber strip is not
important to the design, will soon deteriorate and fall out so do not be concerned with the condition of
the rubber seal. The deep blank lids seat a bit deeper into the drum than the ones with bungs in them
and as such give a better tank seal making this processor very low fume. In a pinch you could use a
standard bung type lid but be aware you may get a bit more fumes escaping and should ventilate
accordingly with outside air.
Please note that this processor design uses steel pipe fittings which are either brazed or welded
into the steel drum. Make a note not to use Zinc plated fittings or pipe as Zinc or Cadmium can cause
metal poisoning from gases created when heated to wielding or brazing temperatures. Since Zinc
plated pipe or fittings are generally undesirable to have in contact with the corrosive chemicals used in
making BioDiesel, you should not be using zinc plated parts anyway. If you cannot locate anything
except zinc galvanized iron fittings & are intent on brazing them onto the tank then you should use
Muriatic acid (read more below) to remove the zinc from the fittings before brazing the fittings to the
steel drum. Iron can be brazed but isnt easy to weld so if you are going to weld parts into the tank you
should use Steel pipe wieldments which are specialized pipe fittings designed to be welded in place, or
steel pipe fittings. For best results, welding is the best option however you can braze the parts in place
if you must use iron fittings. Our processor was made by brazing on iron pipe fittings to the steel
drum. Normally the attachment of pipe fittings to the steel drum goes well, but if you reach a point
where you find you have pin holes in your welds or braze which prove futile to repair, you can use
Fiberglass & epoxy auto body patch material that is readily available at your local automotive parts
store to satisfactorily repair the leak. Just be sure to totally degrease, dry & clean all areas to be
repaired before trying to fiberglass the leak shut. Roughen up the area with coarse sand paper, use
plenty of fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin and be sure to extend the patch at least 2 beyond the leak.
In a pinch, you can remove zinc from galvanized pipe fittings by using Muriatic Acid
(Hydrochloric Acid) in a 50/50 mix diluted with water (Always add acid to the water & not the other
way around). A brand new screw in water heater element adaptor plate will likely be plated with
cadmium which like zinc needs to be removed before brazing or welding to avoid cadmium metal
fume poisoning. Use a 50/50 Muriatic acid & water mix to remove cadmium plating. Be sure to rinse
and neutralize any metal parts that have been acid dipped. To neutralize acid dipped parts, rinse with
water and neutralize the acid with a baking soda and water mixture then rinse them again and dry
before trying to weld or braze.
OK, please realize we have 3 different designs based on the basic Low Fume design, so
please dont get confused. In the following pages you will see references to the Low Fume the
Improved and the All In One. They are all designed like the basic Low Fume the only
differences are in the added features.
The Improved design has a small mini fuel dam in the bottom that blocks glycerol from
getting in your fuel when you drain the tank. This feature makes washing your fuel a lot easier!
The All In One design includes the fuel mini dam but also adds a Stand Pipe to allow you to
wash your BioDiesel in the same tank if you desire. This feature is nice if you have limited space in
which to make your BioDiesel since you can eliminate a washing tank.
39
Basic 55 Gallon drum Low Fume BioDiesel Processor
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Makes 40 gallons of BioDiesel at a time.

If you need them, see the All In One drawings at the end of the book for parts schematic call outs.
Continued below
40
Here is the Low Fume flow schematic. Please ignore that the drawing shows a cone bottomed tank,
our basic Low Fume processor actually has a flat or slightly concave bottomed drum design. You can
easily form the bottom of the drum concave for better draining by using a piece of 4x4x 8 as a
hammer to drive the bottom into this shape. Use ear muffs for hearing protection & block the drum up
off the ground with cinder blocks or wood and hammer away until you get the shape you want..
The pump priming port located top most in the drawing is used to prime the pump with WVO if
using the processor pump to fill the processor tank from a WVO storage tank.
The Ports located below the prime port are Left Finished BD product outlet port & to the
Right the BD shower head used to dry both WVO prior to adding the methoxide & for drying the
finished BD.
The port located below that is the Mixing nozzle port which is located about 1.5 below the
top most rim of the open top steel drum. Important to locate it as high up on the drum wall as
possible & yet allow room for the lid to fully seat.
Below the Mixing port is the Processor Pump. Ports #3,4,5, & 7 are all either self explanatory or
labeled.
Port #6 is used as a Tank gravity drain to get out the last dregs of BD from the processor after the
pump looses prime.
41
Tools needed, Low Fume
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2 pipe wrenches big enough for pipe

hack saw for making stand
Harbor Freight hole punch kit or drill, 1/8 & drill bit and a round file to make pipe size holes in
drum
tape measure
screwdriver
wire brush
paint brush
Plenty of Teflon pipe tape or chemical resistant pipe dope with Teflon
MIG or TIG Welder or gas brazing torch and rods
List of Materials Needed, 55 gallon drum basic Low Fume Processor

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note: all pipe & fittings are black iron pipe or steel unless otherwise noted.
1 ea 55 gallon steel open top drum with a blank lid & cam style clamp ring
1 ea threaded water heater element adaptor block adaptor, (get a thermostat clip kit)
4 each of Red & Black 10 gauge water heater wire (can use old wire from an old water heater)
1 ea 1 clear water pump from Harbor Freight Tools (aprox $25 on sale) p/n 1479-5VGA
9 ea brass ball valves from Harbor Freight Tools (aprox $3.50 each on sale) p/n 47198-3VGA
1 ea brass ball valve from Harbor Freight Tools (aprox $2.50 each on sale) p/n 47195-3VGA
1 ea Siphon Pump Kit to prime pump (this can be eliminated if using a self priming pump to fill
processor with WVO)
1 ea 14 gauge 12 or longer power extension cord from Harbor Freight Tools 8855-4VGA
1 ea DPST 115vac 10 amp power switch (optional for pump on/off power switch)
1 small pack of 14 12 gauge crimp on wire terminal rings (to fit the above pump on/off power
switch)
1 ea power cord for the heater element power (use 10 gauge if using 220vac & 12 gauge if using
110vac)
1 ea appropriate power plug & wall outlet for heater power. Example: 220vac 20 amp plug for 4800
watt heater or less & at 110vac a15 amp plug for 1500 watt heater or less.
1 ea Screw in water heater element. We suggest using 1200 to 2000 actual watts.
1 small pack of electrical wire nuts for 14 12 gauge wire (for pump wire hook up)
1 small pack of electrical wire nuts for 12 10 gauge wire (for heater wire hook up)
1 roll plastic electrical tape
1 ea water heater insulation jacket
1 or 2 cans of a quality enamel paint to make it look pretty
1 ea Temperature gauge ( sending unit & pipe fittings as required )
1 ea 4 way pipe cross
4 ea Tee fittings
2 ea 45 degree elbow
42
1 ea 45 degree street el
2 ea 90 degree street el (for sight tube), if welding use steel weld flanges & adapt as required.
1 ea M to F reducer
2 ea 1M to F reducer
1 ea steel barb fitting
1 ea pipe flange (bottom drain), if welding use steel weld flange (best) or acid etch the zinc off to
braze.
4 ea x 20 x carbon steel bolts & 8 nuts (for mounting thermostat)
2 ea short close nipples
5 ea 2 long nipples
2 ea 3 long nipples
1 ea pipe cap
1 ea pipe plug (for mixing nozzle)
1 ea 10 to 12 long pipe (drill close spaced 1/8 single file holes all along the length of the pipe to
form the shower head, do not drill in the threaded areas)
1 ea 2 pipe
1 ea 18 pipe
1 ea 8 pipe
1 ea piece of x 8 long pipe
1 ea 6 pipe
12 of Braded Vinyl hose
4 of clear vinyl hose
1 ea Harbor Freight x 25 water hose for water drain
4 ea hose clamps
3 ea hose clamps
43
Improved 55 Gallon Low Fume
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Makes 40 gallon batches of BioDiesel, this design includes a glycerol dam for cleaner BioDiesel.
44
Improved 55 Gallon Low Fume description
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The improvement made over the 55 gallon Basic Low Fume is the addition of the offset mini dam
fuel port which is dedicated strictly to pumping out the finished fuel. The offset creates less vortex
action during finished fuel pump out which results in a less chance of the pump sucking in air &
loosing prime. The addition of the short stand pipe, a steel pipe coupling protruding into the tank
bottom elevates the port slightly above the bottom of the processor and forms a mini dam which
blocks residual glycerol waste clinging to the tank bottom from making it into your freshly made
BioDiesel as you pump it out. The end result is less glycerol waste making it into your BioDiesel. This
makes it much easier and quicker to wash the finished product. The fuel stand pipe drain port gets
connected to the Ball valve with a short piece of ID braded vinyl hose connected to steel barb
fittings & held in place with hose clamps for safety.
45
Tools needed, Improved Low Fume
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Harbor Freight hole punch kit or drill, 1/8 & drill bit and a round file to make pipe size holes in
drum
tape measure
screwdriver
wire brush
paint brush
MIG or TIG Welder or gas brazing torch and rods
List of Materials Needed, Improved 55 gallon low Fume Processor

Back to index
1 ea 55 gallon steel open top drum with blank lid & cam style clamp ring
processor with WVO)
switch)
110vac)
46
3 ea Tee fittings
1 ea M to F reducer
braze.
1 ea steel coupling or wieldments for the stand pipe fuel drain port.
5 ea 2 long nipples
3 ea 3 long nipples
1 ea pipe cap
1 ea 2 pipe
1 ea 18 pipe
1 ea 8 pipe
1 ea 6 pipe
6 ea hose clamps
3 ea hose clamps
47
All in One Processor Design
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Makes 40 gallon batches, All In One design, Processes, Washes & Dries using just this tank.
48
All in One Processor Description
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For a parts call out schematic of this processor, see page 212
This design was created for the individual on a limited budget or that does not have enough room
for a dedicated BioDiesel Processor and a Stand Pipe BioDiesel Washer. In this All in One
Processor design, we have rolled all the features into one simple effective processor tank. While not
the ideal situation, it does perform the tasks of Processing, Washing & Drying well. The primary draw
back to this All In One design concept is time. After making the BioDiesel you will need to empty
the processor tank into a temporary holding drum so that the tank can be washed out with a water hose
to remove any residual Glycerol before performing a wash and then after washing you will have to
empty the fuel into a temporary holding drum so that you can either wipe your processor dry of
remaining water or allow it to air dry before moving on to drying the BioDiesel. The benefit is that
since this one tank does the work of 3, you can drastically shrink the space required to make BioDiesel
in and since you only need to build this one tank rather than 3 dedicated ones, you save money.
Changes that were made to the Basic Processor include the addition of the offset mini dam fuel
port (right) that is dedicated strictly to pumping out the finished fuel. The location near the drum wall
allows for less vortex action during finished fuel pump out which results in a much smaller chance of
the pump sucking in air due to a vortex and loosing prime. The addition of this short stand pipe ( a
steel pipe coupling protruding about into the tank ) elevates the port slightly above the bottom of
the processor and forms a mini dam that blocks residual waste glycerol clinging to the tank bottom
from making its way into your freshly made BioDiesel as you pump it out. The end result is cleaner
BioDiesel fuel resulting in much easier and quicker washing of the finished product. This mini dam is
actually a fuel stand pipe drain port that is made of a feed through steel pipe coupling that extends
way through the drums bottom and is welded in place, it gets connected to the Ball valve with a short
piece of ID braded vinyl hose connected to steel barb fittings at each end & held in place with
hose clamps for safety. Note that a 90 degree elbow & close nipple or a Street El pipe fitting may be
required to get the clearances required. Take care not to kink the tubing.
Additionally we have added the Tall stand pipe (Left), this is used when Washing to separate the
BioDiesel & the wash water. Remember clean BioDiesel will float on water. This stand pipe port is
approximately 7 tall inside of the tank. To form the stand pipe, use a feed through steel pipe coupling
and weld it in place way through the bottom of the drum, use a 6 tall pipe nipple and screw it
into the nipple from the inside of the tank. Be sure to use Teflon pipe tape sealant on the threads. As
with the short fuel port, this port also gets connected to the lower plumbing with braded vinyl tubing &
steel barb fittings. The drawing shows what looks like pipe however we are actually using braided
vinyl tubing so that we can avoid the use pipe unions which are hard to keep leak free. This tall stand
pipe port gets connected to the Ball valve and steel barb fitting with a short piece of ID braded
vinyl hose. Connect the tubing to the steel barb fittings at each end & hold in place with hose
clamps for safety. Note that a 90 degree elbow & close nipple or a street El may be required to get the
clearances required. Care must be taken to avoid kinks in the tubing.
49
Tools needed, All In One
Back to index

Harbor Freight hole punch or drill, 1/8 & drill bit and a round file to make pipe size holes in drum
tape measure
screwdriver
wire brush
paint brush
Welder or gas brazing torch
List of Materials Needed, All in One Processor Design

Back to index
1 ea 55 gallon steel open top drum with blank lid & cam style lid clamp ring
processor with WVO)
switch)
110vac)
3 ea Tee fittings
50
1 ea M to F reducer
braze.
1 ea steel coupling or wieldments for the stand pipe fuel drain port.
5 ea 2 long nipples
3 ea 3 long nipples
1 ea pipe cap
1 ea 2 pipe
1 ea 18 pipe
1 ea 8 pipe
1 ea 6 pipe
6 ea hose clamps
3 ea hose clamps
51
Photos of a 55 gallon steel Low Fume processor construction
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Note: This Low Fume is the basic processor that the other ones are made from. If you desire to
make one of the other processors such as the All In One or Improved Low Fume, simply follow
these construction photos, add in the necessary extra fittings and plumb as required.
Note the location of the 5 pipe fittings welded into the drum; bottom drain, sight tubes fittings, fill
port, the screw in heater fitting & the 4 thermostat bolts. Note: Close up photos as required are located
in the below instructions.
Top row Left to Right Raw steel drum, Flange fitting brazed to bottom for drain, Water Heater
pipe fitting & thermostat bracket, Heater & thermostat wired up, Relationship of the pipe fittings put
into drum, Relationship of Heater element to pipe fittings (note pipe fittings face the Left).
Middle row Left to Right Finished Processor shown drying WVO, Processor in a water heater
insulation blanket, Raw iron from an old bed frame that was used to make the stand, Finished stand
Bottom row Left to Right Inside of tank with bottom drain & heater element in place, Photo of
BioDiesel Drying with the shower head, Close up of Shower head in action, Old water heater fitting
still on old water heater, water heater element removed just before we cutting out the weldment fitting
for use in our 55 gallon drum processor. Note: Reuse of an old water heater element mount ring is
cheap & easy.
52
Basic Process Tank Construction
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Note: All fittings should be well sealed with Teflon pipe sealing tape unless otherwise noted.
1. You will need to put 5 holes into the tank large enough for the heater element, pipe fittings & 4
ea holes for the thermostat mounting bolts which can be eliminated if your using a screw in
element plate adaptor kit that has the thermostat holding clips attached to the screw in element plate.
2. Cut a hole in the center of the bottom of the drum. Weld or braze the bottom drain pipe
flange or weldment fitting into place center over this hole. This fitting will be used for mixing the
BioDiesel as the vortex action assists in mixing. Hammering the bottom of the drum outward to form a
concave surface with a 4x4 wood post from the inside with the drum edges supported up on blocks
will produce a curved bottom that drains better. Be careful not to break the weld or braze on the fitting.
3. Weld the 2 ea Sight Tube street els in place. They should be placed as close to the top &
bottom of the tank as possible (leave room for the lid). The street els should face each other.
4. Reference the above photo & weld the x 45 degree street el Fill Port into place (this hole is
Left of the sight tube fittings as viewed from the front) & as close to the top as possible (leave room
for the lid) the port should face the bottom rear & should be put through the hole from the inside of the
tank with the threads sticking outside of the tank. This angled location will form a vortex action &
give a good mix. Ideally it should point opposite to the natural water drain vortex created in your
hemisphere. The fill port 90 degree elbow gets attached later. For starters, drill a 5/16 hole in the
center of the pipe plug & once screwed into the fill port, it forms the mix nozzle. Later you may wish
to experiment with other size holes to better match your pump output. This pipe plug be taken in & out
as needed for filling & mixing (it is required for mixing nozzling pressure).
53
5. Weld the screw in water heater threaded fitting into the Right side of your processor drum. The
location should be below the bottom ring, yet near it (see above photo). This location ensures it will
always be above any water (if using the tank for washing) or glycerol in your tank.
6. If reusing an old water heater thermostat mount, remove the thermostat mount from your old
water heater & use it as a template to locate the 4 mounting bolt holes in your tank. The thermostat
should be located directly above the heater element port & slightly above the bottom ring on the drum.
(see above photo). Another option depending on the type of thermostat clip would be to weld it in
place or bolt it to the screw in adaptor plate. In either case the screw in heater element fitting & bolt
holes if using bolts (step 7 8) must be welded or brazed to insure water tight integrity.
7. If using bolts to hold the thermostat clips in place put the 4 ea x 20 x bolts through the
drum from the inside sticking out. Put nuts on & tighten them. Weld or braze the bolt heads from the
inside to make liquid tight or weld in such a way as to not mess up the threads.
8. Attach the thermostat mount using the 4 spare nuts. The fork end points up (see above photo).
9. Mount the heating element using a new sealing ring. The water heater element sealing ring if
made of plastic is ok but if it is a rubber o-ring as normally provided it will not like BioDiesel which is
a really good solvent will attack the o-ring so in that case try to get a really good seal using a lot of
Teflon tape to limit the exposure of the o-ring to the BioDiesel.
10. Put a 90 degree elbow onto the outside of the fill port & screw it down tight & open end
pointing down.
11. Screw in the 2 ea hose barb sight tube fittings into the street els & connect with a length of
braded hose & clamps to form the liquid level sight tube.
54
Turn the drum upside down & start connecting the lower plumbing
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12. As you can see in the above photo, a x 8 long pipe extends out the left side of the cross from a
to pipe reducer bushing fitting screwed into the cross fitting. As you can see, we had to use a
galvanized cross fitting since no black iron ones were available, however the zinc inside is only a
small surface area so it was acceptable. The other end of the pipe goes into the ball valve. This
also happens to be located on the same side of the processor as the heater element. All other pipes &
ball valves are . The ball valves each get a steel barbed hose fitting except the one shown on the
lower right as this goes to the pump. The orientation of the lower plumbing is such that when the tank
is upright (open end up) with the sight tube rotated to the front, the ball valve should be to the right
(and underneath the heater fitting), the lowest ball valve (the one with the 45 degree street el) should
be orientated to point toward the front. All ball valve handles should be orientated for best access &
the ball valve handles should be orientated so that the handle points toward the direction of liquid
travel when it is open. Note that the cross pipes will need to be removed and reinstalled after you put
the tank into the stand.
55
Pump plumbing
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13. Turn the tank right side up & center it in the stand. As you can see from the pump plumbing photo, the
pump gets connected to that pipe connected to the lower cross fitting. Plumb as shown in the
photo. Note it is much easier to make all the pump plumbing connections & tighten them before
hooking it up to the lower ball valve pipe assembly. The pump assembly gets tied off to the tank stand
for support, you could weld on a bracket to the stand & use a metal worm clamp to affix the plumbing
to it for stability or Tie wraps can be used as shown in the.
14. Note the pump switch located in the center right of the black colored pump power box. This location
works well for a pump power on/off switch or you could simply use an electric light toggle switch.
15. A mechanical automotive temperature gauge can be plumbed in near the pump or a fitting can be
welded into the drum somewhere above the heater. Use a pipe fitting to suit the particular gauge that
you purchased. Mount the mechanical temperature gauge to suit. Another method you can use is to
forgo the mounted gauge & opt for the new Harbor Freight hand held contact less IR temperature
thermometer. It recently is selling for as little as $10 at the store on sale. We have been using this little
IR thermometer gauge & it works very well. This little temperature gauge also allows you to monitor
the base temperature of the heating element to tell you if you need to turn off the heater before it goes
over temp and burns out. Note: If the heater elements base temperature gets near 135F you better turn
off the heater power because it is about to burn out!
56
16. Shown above is the top pump plumbing. The only item not shown is the barbed hose fitting & ball
valve used to the prime the pump. The pump prime fitting extends directly straight up a little way
above the shower head & is located just above a ball valve. The shower head gets orientated such that
the liquid will spray into the drum. The fitting you see below it is the outlet port used to pump out the
finished product to your tank for the next step such as settling or storage or filtering. As you can see it
has a 8 braded vinyl hose hooked up to it in this photo. Shown on the top left of the tank you can see
the tank fill / mixing nozzle port plumbing with the ball valve located below it. The fill port serves two
purposes, one is to fill the tank & the other is to be used as a mixing nozzle when the mixing nozzle is
screwed in place.
17. Note, the markings on the tank & sight tube above. After the tank is assembled you should calibrate
the tank liquid levels. Simply pour in measured amounts of water & make the marks as required. We
suggest marking every 5 gallons. As you can see in this photo the numbers 40 & 48 are circled. We
use the 40 gallon mark for our WVO level & since we use 20% to 25% of added methanol which
equates to 8 to 10 gallons of alcohol, the 8 gallon mark is circled. You might want to make batch sizes
smaller than 40 gallons, if so circle the liquid levels you will be using. These marks also come in
handy if you wash in the same tank because you will know about where the BioDiesel level should be
as you drain out the water.
18. Once fully assembled, the tank should be tested with water to make sure it does not leak & that
everything works. Please exercise extreme caution when filling it for the first time in case any of the
welds in the stand fail. Water weighs near 8Lb per gallon which is similar to the weight of WVO. You
would not want a 400 to 450 LB tank full of scalding hot oil & alcohol to fall over as a serious injury
or a fire could result. Kind of brings to mind the old medieval days when scalding hot flaming oil was
dumped down onto castle attackers. So please insure you use adequate support for the weight of this
processor with a substantial stand and that the processor has no leaks.
Note, some Ball Valves will leak if cranked fully off, if this is the case move the handle back a bit till it turns off & it will be fine. Open the
Ball Valves such as the bottom of the tank drain, the pump isolation, the shower head & the mixing nozzle then turn on the pump.
Caution, do not run the pump dry, stop and troubleshoot the plumbing if no water flows. If the pump leaks out the little steel screw looking
thing on it, tighten it up. That screw was supposed to be used for priming the pump but we do not use it since we have the pump mounted
vertically on end in a non-conventional manor.
57
A bit about Heaters and wiring them in
Back to index
First a little about Heater Elements, Water & Oil
1. We use water heater elements to heat our BioDiesel as do most people. The reason is simple,
they are cheap, easy to locate, designed for immersion into a liquid and can be found with
screw in bases for quick replacement if one goes bad.
2. Water heater elements are labeled in the watts & volts that they are designed for.
3. A Watt is a unit of heat or work being performed. The higher the number the more mass it can
heat in a given amount of time.
4. Heating elements are not all created equal. Check to see what the watts per square inch of
heater surface area is. You want an ultra low number of watts per inch to help your elements
last longer.
5. Water heater elements are designed around the thermal heat absorption characteristics of water
which has a huge capacity to absorb heat.
6. Vegetable Oil does not have the heat affinity or absorption characteristics of water.
7. Oil thickens up when it is cool & thins down when warm. This means that the pumping speed
of your oil will start out slow & will pick up speed as the oil warms up. Pumping speed equates
to heat removal or absorption, the faster the liquid speed past the element, the more heat can be
drawn off. Basically, when your oil is cold it makes for a poor heat sink and can burn.
8. Most people use WVO instead of new vegetable oil. WVO contains little bits of cooked food
floating around in it. Over time, depending on how dirty your oil is, these bits of food will start
to stick and burn onto your element coating it with cooked on crud. Cooked on crud is death
for most heating elements because this stuff acts like insulation and prevents the oil from
absorbing heat causing the element to get hotter & hotter until it fails.
9. If a heating element is allowed to over heat because not enough heat is being drawn off, it will
fail by burning out. We have found that most water heater elements fail when the plastic base
reaches somewhere around 145F.
10. While you can use a regular water heater element, we suggest using an Ultra Low watt density
heating element (50w/inch squared) to help prevent element burnout. These elements cost a
little more initially but will save you money & frustration down the road. The elements we
recommend are called Screw-In Lime Life and are manufactured by Camco. You can locate them
on the web at www.camco.net .
11. These Camco elements are called Screw-In Lime Life and are billed as, Our best immersion
elementswith lifetime warranty* UL & CSA listed Gasket included Best when water has high mineral content
Withstands dry firing Heats in lime and sand buildup that would burn out ordinary elements Highest grade
nickel and chromium incoloy Ultra low-watt density (50 watts per square inch)
12. For 240 Volt AC wiring look at their water heater elements here
http://www.camco.net/Menu.cfm?SupCategoryId=10200&SubCategoryId=233&ProductId=23
43 Item part numbers are #02903 = 2500 watt, #02913 = 3500 watt, #02923 = 4500 watt,
#02933 = 5500 watt
13. For 120 Volt AC wiring look at their water heater elements here
http://www.camco.net/Menu.cfm?SupCategoryId=10200&SubCategoryId=233&ProductId=23
42 Item part numbers are #02853 = 1500 watt
58
A few notes about heating elements and electricity are in order
Back to index
i. Depending on the electrical service available to you, either 120VAC or 240VAC power for
your heating element. First insure your heating element is of the correct voltage rating, using an
120VAC element in a 240VAC circuit & you will have a flashbulb (it will burn up fast) not a
heater! You cant use a 120VAC heater on a 240 VAC circuit unless you wire 2 or more identical
heaters in series which gets clunky & if one fails, neither would work so we do not recommend
this setup. If using 240VAC power with a 240VAC element or 120VAC with an 120VAC element,
your fine.
ii. For people with 120VAC power wishing to use a 240VAC rated element the following is
something you need to understand. You can use a 240VAC rated heating element on a 120VAC
circuit, however the wattage will be quartered not halved as you would expect. This is due to laws
that govern electricity. Ill not get into details of the laws or the math, however rest assured this is
true. So, if you are going to use a 4000 Watt 240VAC rated heating element such & intend to drive
it with a 120VAC electrical outlet, you will not have a 4000 Watt heater but instead will have a
1000 Watt heater. In this 1000 Watt heater example, the heater will draw around 8.3 Amps. Just
remember when voltage gets halved the power gets quartered. You can get around the lowering of
the rated wattage by using more heaters in parallel but you will increase the current or Amperage
draw on that electrical service circuit. As you can see 2 of these 1000 watt heaters in parallel
would draw 16.6 amps from your electrical outlet and you would require a 20 amp circuit to power
it or you would pop electrical circuit breakers or fuses for sure.
iii. What about Watts of Heat per Inch? Ok, this is a tricky subject Basically you will find
that water heater elements get longer as the wattage increases. You must remember that water has
a much higher ability to wick away heat from a heater element & water heater elements are
designed for the heat absorbing qualities of water, not WVO. Measure the total linear length of the
heater element loop, in this theoretical example we will say the loop measures 20 in length & our
rated wattage at 240VAC is 4000 Watts. That would equate to 4000/20 or 200 watts of heat per
linear inch of heater length. If you were having difficulties with burning out your heater element,
you may want to investigate this. Now lets say we power this same heater as we used above with
only 120VAC rather than 240VAC as we did in the above example Remembering the quartering
rule, we now have a 1000 watt heater element. This now equates to 1000/20 or 50 watts of heat per
linear inch of heating element. Now we will examine what would have occurred if we had simply
used a 1000 watt 120VAC heater with an 8 linear length. 1000/8 gives us 125 watts of heat per
inch. The result of this is that if we oversize the wattage & use half the rated voltage of the heater,
the WVO will not receive near as much heat per inch of element & the element will last much
longer.
iv. You will need to keep tabs on the number of Amps your heaters are drawing since most
household 120VAC electrical circuits have breakers rated for only 15 Amps. This means you can
only drive 1 each of your now 1000 watt heaters for a total of 8.3 Amps or if you are fortunate, you
will be wired for 120VAC 20 Amp circuits and could drive 2 each 1000 watt heaters in parallel for
a total of 16.6 Amps. If you choose to do this, be sure to mount them both about 6 or more off the
bottom of your process tank & not too close to one another. Remember heat rises so you dont
want them at the top of the tank. It may be best to mount them on opposite sides of the tank.
v. You need to include a water heater thermostat in your tank or you risk a serious fire. If
using a 55 gallon steel drum, you could have fittings wielded into it near the bottom to allow water
59
heater elements to be used along with thermostats attached to the drum for heat limiting control.
We strongly recommend using screw in heater elements instead of the bolt in type. Heat the OIL
until you reach operating temperature or the heating element stops boiling off water and you reach
your desired temperature. If you could see it, any water would look like tiny bubbles boiling off
your heating element. Keep a vigilant watch on the temperature of your WVO so you do not cause
a fire!
60
Sturdy Process Tank Stand Construction
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The first step in constructing the tank stand shown above is obtaining suitable angle steel. We
made this one out of an old steel angle iron bed frame we got for free. A cheap way to get these would
be from a yard sale, Craigslist, the local Scrap Metal Yard, a Thrift Store or Salvation Army. If you do
not have access to a welding machine or a local welding shop, you might try to see if the local high
school metal shop teacher can be convinced to make it a class project to build you a processor or
processor stand frame. As a last resort you could use 1/8 x 1 angle iron & bolt it together. Be aware
that you may not want to try to bolt one up out of an old bed frame since they are made of very hard to
drill steel & you may not be able to drill it. Most any available 1/8 thick 1 x or larger angle iron
could be used. If bolting it together we suggest using good quality 5/16 in diameter or larger grade 5
bolts (the ones with the 3 little lines radiating out like spokes on the head) with nuts & locking
washers. You might also add a few more cross angled supporting struts to prevent it from scissoring &
collapsing in case any of the bolts slip. Or make it out of wooden 2 x 4 notched & bolted together.
The dimensions of the pieces used to construct this stand.

Uprights 4 each 35 tall
Cross members 8 each 18 1/4 (the corners are all 45 degree mitered)
Angled Braces 2 each 15 (miter as required)
The exterior dimensions.

Width is square so same all the way around - 18 OD
a) Floor to top of 1st cross piece set 4
b) Floor to top of 2nd cross piece set 19
Solidly weld or bolt it together (insure it is square), wire brush it & apply a coat or two of good quality
paint.
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Make no mistake about it, the process tank when full of oil will weigh near 440LB! You would not
want a 400 to 450 LB tank full of scalding hot oil & flaming alcohol to collapse or fall over as serious
injury or a fire could result. Kind of brings to mind the old medieval days when cauldrons full of
scalding hot flaming oil were dumped down onto castle attackers. So please insure this processor stand
or any other stand you construct to hold your process tank is very substantial! Alternatively you could
use solid concrete blocks or a substantial wooden frame to support your processor tanks. If you use
concrete blocks, try to get the solid type. If you must use 8x 8x 16concrete cinder blocks, place
them with the holes up & down for maximum weight bearing strength any you should consider placing
a piece of wood between the drum edge & the concrete blocks to relieve some of that stress where they
meet.
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55 gallon steel BioDiesel Process Tank Operation
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Valve ID & Functions

Starting at the bottom & working our way to the top.
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First we ID the Lower Plumbing cross (note the tank is right side up now)Valve ID from the bottom
up
The lowest Ball Valve is the drain, which is used to drain out water & glycerol.
Next Ball Valve up & on the left is the WVO inlet suction port used to fill your processor.
Next up we have 2 ports, the Right Ball Valve is the Methoxide inlet & the Left Ball Valve is used to
isolate the pump from the lower plumbing during glycerol settling.
Directly below the tank bottom is the Tank Drain isolation Ball Valve.
Moving on up to the pump area is the Tank Fill isolation Ball Valve.
Located just above the tank lip is the BioDiesel Outlet Ball Valve used to pump out the BioDiesel.
Next up is the Shower Head Ball Valve isolation port.
Lastly way up on top is the Prime Suction Ball Valve port used to prime the pump when you are
sucking in WVO from a storage drum to fill your tank.
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Hydro Testing the Tank & plumbing
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To fill the tank, start with ALL the Ball Valves closed position, which is when the handles are at 90
degrees to the pipe. Insure you have appropriate length hoses connected to the ports.
Following the identity chart above

1. Put your WVO fill hose into a drum of Water for testing purposes.
2. Open Ball Valve (c) the Pump isolation Ball Valve.
3. Open Ball Valve (h) the suction Pump Prime port.
4. Place the Siphon Pump Kit you purchased from Harbor Freight Tools onto the suction prime
port. Make sure the suction side is connected to the port.
5. Start pumping the pump until you get a good solid vacuum.
6. Quickly close the pump prime Ball Valve (h)
7. Open the WVO inlet Ball Valve port (b)
You should have seen a big glug of Water flow from the Water drum to the Process tank. The
reason we primed the clear water pump this way was to avoid an air pocket in the tubing or in the
plumbing that would break the clear water pumps siphon. This pump is not a self priming pump & if
it hits an air pocket it will loose its prime. The Water may not have gotten all the way to the pump due
to variations in suction hose length, Water temperature & such. If it stopped short of priming the
pump, simply open the Pump Prime Ball Valve & start pumping again to draw the Water through the
pump. Please make sure the little hand pumps outlet hose is inside the tank though or youll make a
mess if the Water starts getting pumped out by it.
8. Turn on the Clear Water Pump & fill the tank to the 40 gallon mark with Water. Stop the pump &
close the WVO inlet valve (b).
9. Open the Tank drain isolation Ball Valve port (d).
10. Place the mix nozzle into the Fill port (located inside the tank) & open the Fill port Ball Valve (e).
11. Start the pump again & you should get a violent mixing action in the tank from the mixing nozzle.
12. Open the Shower Head Ball Valve. Open it slowly to insure it is rotated or pointed the correct
direction before opening it fully or you may have a mess to clean up.
13. Look for leaks & correct them as required.
14. Once you are satisfied that no leaks are present, put the water heater insulation around the tank &
secure it in place with the provided tape. The insulation should be put between the stand & the tank
being careful not to rip or puncture the outer plastic.
15. Now is the time to test the heater & thermostat. Water holds a lot of heat so do not be surprised
that it takes a long time to heat up. Depending on the wattage of heater, water temperature & the
ambient air temperature it will take anywhere from 1 to 5 Hours to heat the water up to 120F.
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Shutting off the shower head & putting the lid & clamp ring on while the pump circulates the
water through the mix nozzle will speed up the temperature rise.
16. Adjust the thermostat to hold between a 120F to 130F temperature. Once satisfied, POWER OFF
the heater before turning off the pump or emptying the water.
17. Drain out the water through the lower water/glycerol drain Ball valve (a) & allow the tank &
plumbing to dry completely before processing BioDiesel.
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Lets Process a big batch of BioDiesel
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How to operate the Process Tank

Filling with WVO
Note: all instruction steps are sequential from one operation to the next.
*** Unless you want to make a bunch of soap, Start with a DRY tank & Dry plumbing!
Start ALL the Ball Valves in the closed position. Closed is when the handles are at 90 degrees
to the pipe. Insure you have appropriate style & length of hoses connected to the barbed
ports.
Following the identity chart above

1. Put your WVO fill hose into a drum of WVO.
2. Open Ball Valve (c) the Pump isolation Ball Valve.
3. Open Ball Valve (h) the suction Pump Prime port.
4. Place the Siphon Pump Kit you purchased from Harbor Freight Tools onto the suction prime port.
Make sure the suction side is connected to the port.
5. Start pumping the pump until you get a good solid vacuum.
6. Quickly close the pump prime Ball Valve (h)
7. Open the WVO inlet Ball Valve port (b) ***
*** You should now see a big glug of WVO flow from the WVO drum to the Process tank. The reason
we primed the clear water pump this way was to avoid an air pocket in the tubing or in the
plumbing that would break the clear water pumps siphon. This pump is not a self priming pump &
if it hits an air pocket it will loose its prime. The WVO may not have gotten all the way to the pump
due to variations in suction hose length, WVO temperature & such. If it stopped short of priming
the pump, simply open the Pump Prime Ball Valve & start pumping again to draw the WVO
through the pump. Please make sure the little hand pumps outlet hose is inside the tank though or
youll make a mess if the WVO starts getting pumped out by it.
8. Turn on the Clear Water Pump & fill the tank to the 40 gallon mark with WVO. Stop the pump &
close the WVO inlet valve (b).
Alternative Processor Filling method

This method uses a self priming external gear pump to fill the processor
1. Hook up all required hoses to your external pump.

2. Insure all Ball valves are closed except for Ball valve (c) the pump isolation valve & Fill port (e).
3. Fill the processor by pumping the WVO into the tank filtering it through a piece of window screen.
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** Look at the Photo section at the end of the book for pictures of BioDiesel &
what it looks like at the various stages of the process.
Circulation & Heating of the WVO or BioDiesel
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Caution: Always circulate the liquid in the tank when heating and always use the Mixing Nozzle when
using the heater. Never run the heater without circulation or you may either burn the oil or coke
up the element causing premature heater element failure. Early element failure is caused by things
such as elevated line voltage, coking or carbon buildup on the element that prevents heat transfer
& causes the element to burn up. Remember to always POWER OFF the heater before turning off
the pump or emptying the tank or you will burn out the heater element in very short order. NEVER
leave the processor unattended when in operation, if anything ever goes horribly wrong it is most
surely going to happen while you are away. This tank will contain 40 gallons or more of
flammable oil & alcohol both of which can start a fire under some conditions so please error on
the side of caution. Besides it only takes an hour of mix time at 120F to produce the desired
product BioDiesel Methyl Ester. A really good idea is to put a backup timer on your heater just in
case you forget to turn it off. Always use a Thermostat with a built in Over temperature circuit
breaker built in. The one with the little red button on it is the one with the over temperature limit
switch built in.
1. Open the Tank drain isolation Ball Valve port (d).
2. Place the mix nozzle into the Fill port (located inside the tank) & open the Fill port Ball Valve (e).
3. Start the pump & you should get a violent mixing action in the tank from the mixing nozzle. Note
no priming was required at this point since the pump is located below the liquid line and liquid
seeks its own level.
4. Power up the heater & adjust the thermostat to hold a 120F temperature as measured by a quality
thermometer, never trust the temperature markings on the thermostat to be accurate. WVO holds a
lot of heat so do not be surprised if it takes a long time to heat it up. With an insulated tank & a
2500 watt heater it takes around 1 hour, with a 1500 watt heater it takes around 2 hours. Putting the
lid & clamp ring on while the pump circulates the WVO through the mix nozzle will speed up the
temperature rise. Check periodically to see if smoke is in the tank, if so it indicates your WVO is
getting too hot & is burning onto the element. ,Shut down the power to the processor, unplug it &
check your element with a cheap Ohm meter at this time to see if it burned out. If it is still ok &
the WVO is not yet too hot to do so safely, reach in with a wire brush to scrub the element clean of
any cooked on crud. Power the processor back on & keep a close eye on the heating elements
metal base temperature with a non-contact IR thermometer. If it gets into the 140F range,
immediately shut power to the element off while keeping the circulation pump running. After the
heater base cools back down to the temperature of the circulating WVO power the heating element
back on. Continue doing this until the WVO is up to temperature.
5. If you are having problems controlling the heating element from over heating and burning the oil
you may have a problem similar to mine. My AC line power is 240VAC which is on the high side
which causes my heater element to get very hot. Previously my power was at 218VAC & posed no
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problem to heating the thick WVO. But now I find that to keep the element from burning out, I
must toggle the power on & off periodically until the WVO temperature reaches around 90F at
which point I suck in the methoxide (over 15 minutes) while circulating the oil. This reduces the
viscosity of the WVO enough that the liquid can circulate a bit more freely and causes it to such
the heat out of the element a bit quicker which aids in keeping the element cooler and from over
heating. I still must watch the temperature of my WVO & Methoxide mix. Once it gets up to 120
to 130F I start the timer & let it mix for the 1 hour process. By the time the hour or hour & a half is
up, my BioDiesel temperature is still above 120F so all is well with the world. Even though it is
not needed, I some times let my process run a bit long just to be safe. Do not start the 1 hour clock
on your Transesterification process after the mixture has come up to 120F.
6. After Methoxide has been introduced into a heated tank, never open it for any reason, the fumes
would be intense and would pose a serious health hazard. If you burn out a heating element while
heating a Methoxide laden Oil mixture, we suggest you continue to mix for a very long time
perhaps as long as 6 hours if the mixture is near room temperature to complete the process. Then
wait until after the glycerol has settled out and after you drain the tank of both the Glycerol &
BioDiesel and the tank has had time to cool down. Only then should you consider opening the tank
or replacing the element.
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Drying WVO with the Shower Head
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To Dry your WVO, circulate the WVO through the shower head while heating to force it dry
1. With the pump running & circulating WVO through the Mix nozzle, open the Shower Head Ball
Valve. Open it slowly to insure it is rotated or pointed the correct direction before opening it fully
or you may have a mess to clean up. Note: shower head direction may require fine tuning later
after the WVO warms up & changes viscosity. You may also find it necessary to adjust the mix
nozzle so it does not splash or mist as much. If all else fails, you can partially close the tank drain
ball valve to restrict the pump flow, just do not over do it & restrict the flow too much or your
heater may over heat.
2. The WVO should look kind of transparent clear when it is dry. Test your WVO to find out if it is
dry enough, this is a very good idea & is easily accomplished. Follow instructions for testing
dryness HERE.
3. Once the WVO is Dry, close the shower head ball valve. Check to make sure the mix ball valve is
fully open.
4. Put the lid & sealing ring onto the processor. Once sealed up, start sucking in the Methoxide and
do not open the processor again until cool.
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How to suck in the Methoxide Mixture & Transesterify
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1. Insure the Processor Tank Lid is on & tightly clamped down with the ring clamp. The WVO
temperature should be fully up to at least 120F & no higher than 140F (the point at which
methanol boils). The Methoxide Mixture should by now be fully formed & no longer produce heat
when the container is shaken.
2. Turn the Processor tank drain isolation Ball Valve about way off (45 degrees). The pump should
change pitch & the flow should slow way down. We are attempting to create a partial vacuum in
the lower plumbing assembly which is normally under a slight bit of head pressure due to gravitys
effect on the 40+ gallons of liquid located in the tank above. Slight tweaks on the drain valve may
be required later if this setting does not give a satisfactory vacuum.
3. Wearing your protective garments, put the Methoxide suction hose into the Methoxide mixture &
very S-L-O-W-L-Y open the Methoxide isolation Ball Valve; but just open it until you get a very
slow feed of Methoxide into the hot WVO mixing in the processor. Usually this valve will be near
the 45 degree position. Ideally the Methoxide flow rate should be around 7 minutes to feed in each
5 gallons. As you near the bottom of the methoxide be ready to quickly turn off the Methoxide
isolation valve or pinch off the suction hose before the pump looses its prime from sucking in air.
Switch Methoxide supply tanks & slowly suck up the remainder of the Methoxide required to
make the batch size you are processing.
4. Close the Methoxide isolation Ball Valve & fully open the tank drain Ball Valve again to allow the
hot WVO / Methoxide mixture to mix at full flow. Start a timer & allow to process for 1 hour at
120F to 140F before turning off the heater first & then the pump. Do not exceed 140F as this is the
temperature that Methanol Boils. Mix time depends on temperature and on how well you want the
reaction to go. NOTE: For a virtually full reaction it takes an hour at 122F; 2 hours at 104F; or 4
hours at 86F.
Caution: Since the tank contents are still hot Do NOT OPEN the hot processor unless you want a face
full of Methanol or Methoxide Fumes. Opening it now will not accomplish anything except to loose
valuable methanol due to evaporation. Let it sit & rest now so the glycerol can settle out. Since it is
still hot, the transesterification process can still continue if any unconsumed chemicals remain in the
mix.
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Settling & Draining waste Glycerol
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The time required for the waste Glycerol to settle out is temperature dependent & also depends on the
percentage Vol / Vol of methanol that was used to make the BioDiesel. Generally 3 hours should be
sufficient for the bulk of it to settle out. Do not allow it to settle out overnight or get cold. Unless you
keep it warm, Glycerol can harden when it cools sufficiently & can be difficult to drain, or may plug
up your plumbing if this is allowed to happen.
1. Once the Transesterification process has stopped you should drain the pump & plumbing to
prevent waste glycerol from hardening and plugging it up. Open the Pump Prime Ball Valve, the
Fill Ball Valve, & the Pump Isolation Ball Valve then Close the Tank Drain Ball Valve.
2. Connect a short length of hose to the lowest drain barb on the lower plumbing assembly. This
hose should be kept close to floor level & placed into a short pail to collect the waste Glycerol & a
little Raw BioDiesel that will drain out of the upper plumbing assembly. Open the lowest drain ball
valve to collect the Raw BioDiesel from the upper plumbing.
3. Close ALL of the Ball Valves.
4. Wait around 3 hours or so for the bulk of the Glycerol in the tank to settle out.
5. Using a 5 gallon container or two such as a recycled Oil Cube (salvaged from a restaurant) to drain
the warm but not hot (dont want to melt the plastic liner) waste Glycerol into. To do this put the
lowest drain fitting hose into the cube then open up the lower plumbing assembly Drain Ball Valve
and the Tank drain Ball Valve, watch the sight tube as you drain off the waste glycerol. The
Glycerol should be near the end when the sight tube returns to the volume of WVO you originally
put into the tank. Do not be afraid to empty out more than that though as any BioDiesel carried out
with the Glycerol will settle out & can be salvaged later. Close the lowest Drain Ball Valve once
the Glycerol has been drained out of the tank.
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Pumping out BioDiesel for temporary storage or washing
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1. Securely fasten the BioDiesel Outlet hose into a clean storage vessel or wash tank should have a
secure lid on top. A removable bung type lid is acceptable provided you use the lid band & pump
the Hot Raw BioDiesel into the tank through the bung hole & use plenty of ventilation. The hose
can easily pop out & make a smelly methanol fume laden mess due to pump pressure so anchor it
tightly in place (a spring clamp works well for this) & be careful.
2. Open the BioDiesel outlet Ball Valve (f), Open the pump isolation Ball Valve & the Tank Drain
Ball Valve. Insure all other Ball Valves are Closed. The Clear Water pump will self prime
provided the BioDiesel liquid level is above the level of the pump head.
3. Start the Clear water pump & empty the Process tank contents into a clean storage drum. Keep the
lid & band in place, do not remove it since the BioDiesel is still warm & the methanol fumes
would pose a safety problem. If the tank starts to form suction, loosen the lid band but do not lift
up the lid! Be sure to use plenty of ventilation. As the tank contents drops they may start to form a
vortex & allow air into the BioDiesel being pumped out. This can lead to loss of pump prime. To
prevent this from occurring, if you start to notice the air sound, quickly begin throttling down the
outlet ball valve (f) to restrict the flow. Make adjustments as required to keep the contents from
vortexing & yet allow reasonable flow. This should reduce the vortex action & allow you to fully
pump out the contents.
4. Once the Raw BioDiesel has been transferred into the storage drum, turn off the pump & tightly
cap the storage drum to prevent methanol fumes from escaping.
Cleanup
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1. Salvage any residual BioDiesel left over from pumping out the tank by opening the drain valve &
collecting the contents in an oil cube, set it aside in a settling drum as it will likely contain
Glycerol that was hugging the bottom of the processor. The last dregs in the tank will typically
contain more waste than the Raw BioDiesel you just pumped out. We suggest you put the oil cube
in the sun & allow it to settle out. After settling a few hours in the sun, careful siphon out the
BioDiesel that sits on top & put it into the next wash.
2. Wait for the process tank to cool down, start a ventilation fan, open up the tank top lid & drain
valves. Hose out the tank with water to clean out the residual glycerol or sterates that may be
clinging to the walls & bottom of the tank. Pay particular attention to cleaning the heating element
of buildup to preserve its life. A wire brush can be used to carefully clean it of any cooked on
crud. Drain the tank of any residual water, blot the tank bottom dry & allow it to completely air dry
before using it to process another batch of BioDiesel unless you plan on using it to wash the
BioDiesel in.
3. Remove the Mix Nozzle pipe plug to ready the tank for its next filling & sit it aside until needed
again.
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Lets Wash & Dry a Big Batch of BioDiesel
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Instructions for Washing BioDiesel in the Process Tank

The process tank can be used to wash BioDiesel, however we suggest you use a dedicated stand pipe
wash tank which besides being faster, gives better results.
1. Connect the Tank Suction Fill Hose to a suction dip tube & place the tube into the Raw BioDiesel
located in the Storage Drum. Insure the dip tube is kept at least 3 off the bottom of the drum to
prevent it from sucking up any settled out waste glycerol or soaps. Best results are obtained after
allowing the Raw BioDiesel to sit overnight so waste glycerol can settle out. Alternatively you can
use a self priming gear pump to do this transfer. If the gear pump last pumped WVO you will need
to flush it out with the RAW BioDiesel by pumping a gallon or so into a Oil cube & then
reprocessing it later. Once the Raw BioDiesel is transferred go on to step #12.
2. Start with ALL Ball Valves Closed.
3. Open the Pump Isolation Ball Valve.
4. Open the suction Pump Prime port.
5. Hook up the Siphon Pump Kit you purchased from Harbor Freight Tools onto the suction prime
port. Make sure the suction side is connected to the port.
6. Start pumping the Siphon pump until you get a good solid vacuum.
7. Quickly close the Pump Prime Ball Valve.
8. Open the WVO Inlet Ball Valve port.
9. You should now see a big glug of Raw BioDiesel flow from the Raw BioDiesel Storage drum to
the Process tank. The reason we primed the clear water pump this way was to avoid an air pocket
in the tubing or in the plumbing that would break the clear water pumps siphon. The clear water
pump is not a self priming pump & if it hits an air pocket it will loose its prime. The Raw
BioDiesel may not have gotten all the way to the pump due to variations in suction hose length. If
it stopped short of priming the pump, simply open the Pump Prime Ball Valve & start pumping
again to draw the BioDiesel through the pump. Please make sure the little hand pump outlet hose
is inside the tank though or youll make a mess when BioDiesel starts getting pumped out by it.
10. After the clear water pump is primed, Close the Pump Prime Ball Valve then turn on the clear
water pump while simultaneously Opening the Tank Fill Ball Valve. (BioDiesel should start filling
the tank now).
11. Close the WVO Inlet Ball Valve & turn off the pump ( the pump has likely lost prime by now ).
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12. Screw in the Mix Nozzle, Open the Tank Drain Ball Valve, put the tank lid on & start the clear
water pump.
13. Start the Heater & warm the Raw BioDiesel up to around 120F.
14. Turn off the Heater & Stop the Clear Water Pump.
15. Slowly pour in around 7 to 9 gallons of Hot Water down the side of the tank being careful not to
disturb the Raw BioDiesel very much. Cover to keep in the heat & let it soak over night then drain
out the water in the morning.
16. The first active wash should be a Mist or Fog wash. Using about 5 fine fog or mist nozzles rated at
around .5 GPH located around the top of the tank opening. Use a garden hose to supply fresh
water to the fog nozzles. Keep the lid on top of the tank but block it open about 1 this will help to
trap the mist inside the tank. Try to adjust the nozzles such that the top surface of the BioDiesel
does not get disturbed much. Allow the water to mist over the BioDiesel until the tank liquid level
rises about 7. Turn off the mist nozzles, allow the now Orange Juice looking BioDiesel to settle
out excess water for a couple of hours. Drain the water out of the tank & repeat this misting &
draining process until the water starts to come out translucent clear at which point do not drain but
move on to step #17.
17. Place a Bubble Ring in the bottom of the tank & turn on the bubbler pump. Adjust it for a slow
feed of bubbles. Let it run for 4 hours or better yet overnight with the tank covered yet the lid
blocked open 1 all the way around. Note: if you see bubbles that rise but fall back down before
breaking the surface, stop the bubbler. These are little globules of BioDiesel/water emulsion
starting to form. You should go back to Mist washing again.
18. After 4 hours or in the morning, lift the Bubble Ring out of the tank & turn off the bubble pump.
19. Let the water settle out of the BioDiesel for a few hours or overnight & then drain the water out.
20. Repeat a single Misting followed by Bubble washing as many times as required until the wash
water comes out translucent clear and the BioDiesel no longer has that Orange Juice look to it after
settling overnight. Test for Soaps as in step #21 then if ok continue on to Drying it.
21. Test the BioDiesel for Soap by using the Shake Test Method. (Place 1 Liter in a 2 Liter clean
clear plastic soda bottle, add in 250ml of tap water, cap the bottle & shake it well. Stop shaking &
sit the bottle down, it should separate rather quickly into a layer of water on the bottom with the
BioDiesel floating on top. If this is what you have, then congratulations are in order & you can
proceed to Drying your washed BioDiesel. If you end up with a homogenous looking milky liquid,
it failed the test & you need to continue washing as required.)
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Instructions for Drying BioDiesel in the Process Tank
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Start with a Clean & Dry Process Tank. Yes, it seems silly that the tank must be dry & yet the
BioDiesel can be damp. The reason for this is that any standing water in the bottom of the tank will never get
circulated & exposed to the air for evaporation to occur, thus the water would remain & would keep your
BioDiesel damp.
1. Pump out the Washed BioDiesel & put it into a clean dry storage drum. If you need instructions how to
do this, simply follow the instructions under Pumping out the BioDiesel for temporary storage above.
2. Clean & Dry the Process tank, thoroughly drain out any standing water from the plumbing before
proceeding further.
3. Remove the Mix Nozzle & Fill the Process Tank with the BioDiesel you need to Dry. If you need
instructions how to do this, simply follow the tank Filling instructions under Washing BioDiesel in the
Process Tank above.
4. Screw the Mix Nozzle back in.
5. Open the Tank Drain Ball Valve, Pump Inlet Ball Valve, Mix Nozzle Ball Valve, and Shower Head
Ball Valve then make sure ALL other Ball Valves are Closed.
6. Start the clear water pump.
7. Start the heater.

8. Circulate the BioDiesel while heating to 120F. Continue to circulate for ~ 1 hour & monitor the
BioDiesel while looking for it to turn transparent. Turning transparent indicates it has released
(evaporated) the water.
9. Test BioDiesel for water. For the refrigeration water test you place a sealed jar of BioDiesel in the
refrigerator & chill to the coldest temperature you expect outside. If the BioDiesel stays clear you are
good to go, if it turns hazy you have some more drying to do & if it develops a smoky looking wispy
cloud on the bottom of the jar then you have more washing to do. Continue as required.
10. Once the BioDiesel is given a clean bill of health, you will need to filter it before putting into your
vehicle.
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Polishing BioDiesel or how to wash & dry
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Washing Guide
If you wish to comply with ASTM standards for your BioDiesel, you need to wash your BioDiesel to
remove water soluble Soaps, excess Methanol & Glycerol. Doing so while your BioDiesel Ester is still
warm will conserve energy. BioDiesel being lighter than water, the water will settle out to the bottom
of the tank carrying water soluble contaminates such as methanol, soap & glycerol with it. You will
dry your BioDiesel later. Commercially made BioDiesel is washed to comply with the ASTM
standard.
Washing can be done inside your Processing Reactor tank or in a dedicated Wash Tank (preferred).
Using a dedicated wash tank will increase production & give you a better product. You can also
Process more BioDiesel in you process tank while washing & drying in your Wash tank which gives
greater thru put. The use of a dedicated wash tank also eliminates the possibility of contaminating a
new batch of BioDiesel with residual wash water or stearates inadvertently left in the process tank.
Static Washing: Sometimes used if the BioDiesel has a tendency to easily form an emulsion. Put hot
BioDiesel in a tank & add in 25% hot water slowly. Allow it to rest for 8 hours or over night then
remove the static wash water & wash with Mist washing followed by a Bubble wash.
Mist Washing: Usually the first wash process. Place a number of water Fogging nozzles above the
surface of your BioDiesel contained inside your Wash tank. Turn on the water & allow gentle water
mist to settle onto the top of the BioDiesel, please note that you do not want the mist to break the
surface of the water, you just want it to gently deposit on the surface & slowly break through the
surface tension as the water droplets settle slowly down through the BioDiesel cleaning it. Let the
misting continue for 1 hour, during which 5 to 8 gallons will collect on the bottom of your tank. The
fine mist is composed of small water droplets which being heaver than the BioDiesel Ester will fall
down through the BioDiesel & will collect water soluble contaminates as the droplets fall. Mist for a
number of hours, change the water & repeat until the water comes out translucent or clear.
Bubble Washing: Normally used last to give a fine clean. Purchase the Pretty Good bubble ring
washer from us or you can use a large Aquarium Bubbling Stone or make one yourself using a
grinding wheel by bolting large washers over the center hole & putting in a air feed port or a ring
made out of pipe (copper tubing or plastic pipe can be used with little holes drilled into the ring).
Either use the water from your last mist wash or gently pour in 7 to 9 gallons of tap water. Put the
bubbler on the bottom of your BioDiesel wash tank make sure it doesnt float & stays put. Apply air
pressure to the bubbler or the ring with a small aquarium pump & allow little bubbles to travel
upwards through your BioDiesel. Bubble wash for a number of hours or overnight. You can use a
valve to control the air flow if desired. This action will cause a small amount of water to follow the
bubbles which will dissolve water soluble materials inside the BioDiesel & settle it to the bottom of
the container trapped in the water. Bubble for a number of hours, allow the water time to settle out
then drain out the dirty water, & repeat until the water comes out translucent or clear.
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Agitation Washing: Normally, we do not recommend this type of wash so use at your own risk.
Use great Caution, do not use this method for the first wash as it very likely would cause an emulsion
to form. Add in 25% to 33% of water into your BioDiesel by volume. This must be done while the
BioDiesel is still warm. Activate the mixing pump or paddle & allow to mix for 1 hour. Exercise
extreme caution (test first with the Shake Test to see if it will emulsify) when doing this or you may
get a big emulsion.
Magnasol R60 Dry washing: This is a rather new way to dry wash BioDiesel. Basically a quantity of
Magnasol is added to the BioDiesel which reportedly cleans the soaps & glycerol from it. Read more
about this on the next page.
Notes: Regardless which wet method or combination of wet methods you choose to wash with, you
will need to repeat until the water comes out clear or translucent looking for it to be called clean. This
may require washing 4 times or more. Always follow up with a Shake Test to make sure the BioDiesel
has been washed enough.
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About Magnasol R60 Dry Washing BioDiesel without water
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Here is a report about using Magnesol R60 for a couple of test runs and one 90 gallon batch at 1%
by weight so long as the glycerin and methanol are removed before "absorbent washing". No filter
problems requiring the need for diatomaceous earth were noted. Magnesol R60's average grain size is
30-70 microns, assuming some grains can be as small as 20 micron, primary filter can be a 20 micron
sock, then run through a 10 micron filter with recirculation, then 2 micron filter with recirculation. The
trick to keeping down the cost of Magnesol R60 is to minimize the amount of soap produced while
still achieving good conversion, as this will use the least Magnasol.
Magnesol Dry washing 101
Via research at Iowa State and at The Dallas Group of America, an alternative wash method for
removing contaminants in BioDiesel has been discovered as an alternative to water washing. This
alternative wash method implements the use of an absorbent material that acts as a selective sponge
to remove soaps, glycerin, water and acids from BioDiesel. The preferred absorbent material is
Magnesium silicate, also known as talc, talcum powder, baby powder, and for our purposes Magnesol
R60 (synthetic MgSi trademarked by The Dallas Group).
Here is a list of why Magnesol R60 was chosen as the absorbent material
1. 1g of Magnesol has a surface area of 300 - 700 square meters.
2. Particle size ranges 20 70 microns, (makes it easily filtered with a 10 micron filter)
reduces the need to treat wash water.
3. Magnesol is nontoxic, non-flammable, non-corrosive and biodegradable (the precipitate can be

composted).
4. When using 1.64% by weight in washing 1 gallon of BioDiesel, the cost of Magnesol can be as
low as 21 to 28 cents per gallon.
Note: Magnesol can be bought in 50lb bags for around $1.50 a pound from the Dallas Group or
from http://www.FryerPower.com
It is generally used in the amount of 1-2% of total weight of a BioDiesel sample. One liter of
BioDiesel weighs about 800g; therefore 8-16g of Magnesol R60 are required to remove the unwanted
contaminants from a one liter sample. Research at Iowa State has demonstrated that the use of
Magnesol R60 removes a larger percentage of glycerin and soap than conventional water washing,
while also eliminating the need for high-energy input drying of BioDiesel.
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The Magnesol R60 Dry Wash procedure
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1. Remove as much as possible glycerol from the BioDiesel.
2. Remove methanol from BioDiesel (either by using the spray function with an open vent, or
recapturing through a still).
3. Transfer the remaining unwashed BioDiesel into the wash tank.
4. Optional Step : add about 5 ml of acetic acid for every Liter of BioDiesel and recirculate for 15
minutes. Let settle for about one hour, then drain out the settled acid and any precipitate from
the bottom valve. This will precipitate out any unused KOH and will break apart any minor
emulsions.
5. Measure out 1-2% Magnesol based on the total weight of your BioDiesel ( you can use 800g as
the weight of 1L of BioDiesel and figure out your amount of Magnesol based on the number of
liters. If your wash tank is calibrated in gallons, convert gallons to liters with the ratio 1gallon
= 3.78 liters. ). The Magnasol R60 manufacturer states to use Magnasol R60 at the rate of 1%
by weight per 800ppm of soap.
6. Add the Magnesol and recirculate the solution for 30 minutes. Then let settle for 24 hours.
7. Drain off the precipitate into a 5 gallon bucket. Let this goop settle for an hour, salvage
the BioDiesel from the top (store it to wash with your next batch), then compost the remaining
goop.
8. Take a sample from the top of the wash tank of the washed BioDiesel. Check for clarity, you
should be able to read a book through it. Also, do a wash test ( in a small jar add 50 ml of the
BioDiesel, and 50ml of water, shake, wait for separationhopefully it takes less than 10
minutes. Make sure the wash water is completely clear, meaning no soap, before proceeding to
the final filtering).
9. If the BioDiesel has passed both these tests. Run it through a 10 micron or smaller filter at least
3 times before using. Recommended is first a 20 micron, then a 10 micron, then a 2 micron,
while implementing a recirculation function with each filter.
For more (patent info and claims) on Magnesol R60

http://www.freshpatents.com/Purification-of-BioDiesel-w...1ptan20050081436.pHp
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Wash Tank Design
Most any clean Steel or plastic tank can be used.
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A simple static wash tank
For a simple static wash tank you can use a 55 gallon steel drum. You will be adding in wash
water to the tune of around 25% Vol/Vol of your Raw BioDiesel so use a big enough tank to hold it
all. Highly desirable to place ball valve operated spigots in two places in this tank, one located at the
bottom & another located about 90% of the way down from the top of the tank. These locations will
allow you to occasionally drain off the wash water using the lowest spigot & yet when you are ready
to drain the tank of BioDiesel after sufficient wash water settling time you can safely do so without
excess water getting in your BioDiesel. It works best if your tank is elevated to allow for gravity
draining or pump priming to naturally occur.
A 55 gallon open top type steel drum with a tight fitting lid works well for this wash tank. The
lowest drain can be located in the side (if the tank is slightly tilted) or in the bottom. If you put the
drain in the bottom, you will need to have it shaped for better drainage, do so by holding the drum off
the ground using a few cinder blocks, then you can do some bashing with the end of a big 4x4 to form
the curved bottom. Generally this works fairly well. A much better way to make a steel drum into a
wash tank is to have a wielding shop make it for you as a cone bottomed tank (much nicer but more
expensive to get done).
If you are wielding the fittings on, special Steel pipe fittings should be used for the pipe &
spigots. If brazing them on, you can get away with standard cast iron pipe fittings. Note: general pipe
fittings are made of Cast Iron & not suitable for wielding but can be brazed. If a leak is found when
water testing & it is no longer feasible for you to wield or braze to repair the leak you can fix it with
Fiberglass & Fiberglass epoxy resin made for automotive or boating repair. Weve not tried using
Fiberglass & resin to bond a fitting to a steel drum but if all else fails & you cant locate a wielding
facility near you, try using pipe flanges (the big flange bolt on kind used to make stair railings) &
after bolting them into place Fiberglass them to make it liquid tight. Note: Use disposable rubber
gloves when working with fiberglass resin, as it is very sticky & messy!
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A Dynamic Stand Pipe design Wash Tank
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This design is much more complex but can be made without welding. It too can be constructed out of a
55 gallon steel drum but this one can be made either out of an open top type drum or out of a Closed
top type steel drum.
If using a closed top drum, the drum gets turned upside down & the bottom (which is now the top gets
cut out). The threaded bung holes both get used, one (the stand pipe) gets a pipe which sticks up into
the drum 6 to 10& out the bottom, the other is simply a drain & only gets pipe put on the outside of
the drum. Fabrication of the stand pipe fittings is not an easy task as pipe threads are generally tapered
to ensure a water tight fit & will not allow a pipe to get screwed into the wrong end. So an adaptation
is in order, you get a 2 male to female pipe reducer fitting & screw it into the 2 bung hole using
either pipe dope or Teflon tape thread sealant. Next you hook up your water drain plumbing to it. The
Bung Hole gets a pipe nipple screwed into it until it extends into the drum at least & you screw
a coupling & pipe onto it to form a stand pipe which sticks up off the bottom. This is used to drain off
the washed BioDiesel. Of course BioDiesel drain plumbing gets connected to the exterior plumbing
here. Another method to make a stand pipe is to use is to take a piece of pipe & have a plumbing
shop put an really extra long thread on it for you (around 8 of thread!). The idea is to thread it way up
into the steel drum from the outside into the drum about 6 to 8 (note the long threads go into the
drum) & have the other end sticking out the 2 bung hole adaptor. You seal up the pipe threads (the
fiberglass trick would work well here) & put a ball valve on the outlet to control this BioDiesel
drain. The wash tank gets placed on a sturdy stand of course to elevate it so the pipe fittings are at a
convenient height.
While weld less washers are good, The most durable design in our opinion is the Open top
steel drum design, preferably wielding or brazing the fittings in place. If you develop a leak, or cannot
weld fiberglass may be used to put the pipe fittings in the bottom of the tank & keep it water tight. The
benefit to an open top drum design of course is that the standard 55 gallon steel lid can be used to keep
out dirt & debris when not in use.
Misters (the kind used to cool crowds in the hot summer) are used to gently mist water down
onto the BioDiesel. Gentle is a very key word here you do not want any disturbance of the top
BioDiesel layer or you will create an emulsion. Since water is heavier than BioDiesel the water will
settle to the bottom of the tank & will get drained out AFTER the BioDiesel gets removed. This is an
important point to note contaminates such as stearates will collect in the water layer & will cling to
the walls of the tank. If the water is drained off first, the stearates would remix with the BioDiesel &
contaminate it. By removing the BioDiesel while it is still floating on the water layer, we eliminate the
stearates as well.
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The Easy No Weld Stand Pipe Wash Tank Project #1
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This design allows you to build tanks out of old 55-gallon drums very cheaply without needing
to find or build a conical-bottom or dome-bottom tank. It has two ball valves- one valve drains water,
and the other drains only BioDiesel from a higher point up. Some people prefer this tank design over a
conical shaped bottom draining tank. With this design you can save your last wash water for reuse
later by simply draining the clean BioDiesel from above it.
The tank is made from a closed-top drum, it gets turned upside down so the bungs face
downwards, with the former bottom (no-bung) end cut open on top. A Sawzall or a jigsaw works
perfectly for this, however please be careful if the drum has flammables stored in it previously unless
you want to get blown up!
Tools Needed
1 of these: drum deheader, Sawzall, jigsaw, cold chisel, or cutting torch to cut out the former top of
the drum
1 Pipe wrench
1 pair of large Channel lock pliers or crescent wrench
1 flathead screwdriver for tightening hose clamps.
Parts Needed
1 of your choice.. either a 55-gallon or 30-gallon closed headed type drum (without a removable lid)
1 ea - 2 Male to 3/4Female adaptor bushing
2 ea - 2 pipe nipples
2 ea - 3 pipe nipples
2 ea - 90 degree elbows
2 ea - Ball Valves, Female
2 ea - hose barbs, Male, Preferably steel but gray plastic ones will work, may be hard to find look
around
2 ea - pieces of 3/4 clear vinyl tubing or braded vinyl tubing long enough to reach to a bucket or a
drain.
1 ea - piece of pipe about 6 to 8 long for standpipe, Read the Notes below.
1 ea - coupling
2 ea hose clamps to fit vinyl hose (worm screw type)
Plumbing: All parts are 3/4 NPT Pipe unless otherwise noted. All parts black iron or galvanized
(except ball valves which are brass) in this application it doesnt matter much that black pipe will rust.
Dont use PVC ball valves since they tend to break off their non-PVC plastic handles & get brittle
when cold.
How tall should the standpipe be? Total height of standpipe and coupling should be approximately
1/4 the length of your wash tank- if you plan to use 1/4 water to 3/4 BioDiesel when you wash. In a 55
gallon tank, placing it at 6 should give you ~ 10 gallons of water while placing it at 8 to 9 should
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give you ~ 15 gallons of water. As a general rule of thumb, each ring on a 3 ring 55 gallon drum is
about 18.5 gallons. Remember to leave room for your BioDiesel, figure 40 gallons of BioDiesel + 10
gallons of water = 50 gallons of liquid with a 5 gallon headspace to prevent spillage.
Note: Teflon pipe tape sealant or Teflon pipe dope paste gets used on all pipe connections.
Stand Pipe Wash Tank Assembly Details

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Water drain: The 2" bung gets a bushing threaded into it, you should grind it down until it fits flush
with the bottom. This drain gets a valve assembly for draining your wash water. When you need to
change your wash water you drain it using this valve. You stop draining when either emulsion or
BioDiesel/water mix starts coming out of the clear tube. You probably won't be able to drain every last
bit of water out of a flat-bottom tank so don't try.
BioDiesel (standpipe) drain: Thread a 2" pipe nipple into the 3/4" tank bung as far as it will go. The
threads need to protrude inside the tank about 1/4 inch. Next assemble the coupling and the standpipe
together and screw the assembly onto the short protruding threads I just mentioned. The rest of the
plumbing gets hooked up just like the lower drain. You should label which drain is the water drain &
which is the BioDiesel standpipe to avoid confusion. Since this tank needs to be elevated & will be
VERY HEAVY when full of BioDiesel & wash water, you will need a very sturdy stand under it. If
you are good with wood you might make one with notched 2x4's & carriage bolts, another type could
be made from angle iron if you can wield, or as a last resort you could use plastic milk crates.
Whichever you choose to use, make sure it is very sturdy & secured to a wall! This tank will weigh
close to 400LB when full.
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A Better Wash Tank, Welded Stand Pipe Project #2
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This design we believe is superior to the No Weld Design mentioned previously. The construction is
simpler & sturdy but requires welding of fittings into the 55 gallon steel drum. If you do not have a
welder, you could have this simple project done at your local welding shop. We will not go into the
exterior plumbing as it is exactly the same as the No Weld Stand Pipe washer listed above. The
simplicity & sturdiness of design is a result of the steel pipe weldments used. We used 1 each weld
able steel 3/4" pipe flange welded flush with the tank bottom for a water drain & 1 each weld able
steel 3/4" pipe coupler welded 1/2 way in & out of the tank
bottom. See the photos of the drum wieldments below.
Photos of Stand Pipe Fittings welded into a 55 gallon steel drum
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Improvements you may want to incorporate:
Draining improvements can be accomplished by beating the bottom of the drum with the end of a
heavy 4x4 wood post while the drum is suspended on 3 concrete cinder blocks placed around the
edges (put the cinder blocks holes up or they may brake). Pound until you get the desired concave
shape which will assist in draining the tank. When you assemble the tank, make sure to grind down
your water drain fitting until it fits flush or slightly below the floor of the tank.
Sight Tube could be easily added to this tank by welding a couple of flanges to the side near the top &
bottom of the tank. Connect barbed hose fittings & connect with a piece of vinyl see through tubing.
You can then see the liquid levels in your tank much easier.
Heating can be added by simply installing a hot water heater element & into the side of the tank and
adding a thermostat control from a hot water heater to the outside of the tank. This is done the same
way as we do it to the BioDiesel processing tank. The benefit is that the wash water will not cool down
your BioDiesel during washing. Heat may speed up washing.
Insulating, an insulated wash tank will help save you energy costs if heating the tank & will keep the
temperature more consistent through out your tank. A nice clean way to insulate your tank is to use a
plastic coated Hot Water Heater insulation Blanket. Simply wrap your new processor in the water
heater blanket and apply the provided tape around the top & bottom. Be sure you only use the tape on
the outside of the drum & apply it before getting any WVO onto the drum or it will not stick. You
need to use care when wrapping up the sight tube area. We removed the sight tube & put small slits in
the insulation to allow for the street els to poke through. We them put the sight tube back in place after
installing the blanket insulation. We did not find it necessary to insulate the underside or top of the
processor tank.
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Instructions for using your new Wash Tank
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1. Transfer warm (at least 80 deg F) BioDiesel into Wash Tank.
2. Turn the misters on low. NOTE: Don't mist too aggressive to start with. You want a nice, light
mist, preferably above the BioDiesel.
3. Mist until you fill the tank w/ wash water up to the stand-pipe
4. Turn off the misters & let it sit a bit so the water particles settle out.
5. Drain off the first wash water using the non-standpipe opening (know when to stop by measuring
water).
6. Mist again, but this time using a more aggressive mist.
7. Let it sit for a little bit again.
8. Leave the wash water in the tank & begin a LIGHT bubble wash. Too hard and you're going to
make an emulsion.
9. Bubble for about 8 hours.
10. Turn the bubbler off.
11. Let it sit for around a bit to let the water particles settle out.
12. Change out the water.
13. Turn Bubbler back on, only this time more aggressive for another 8 hours.
14. Turn off bubbler & check to see if the BioDiesel is done by using the shake test.
15. If it is done washing, let it sit overnight to let the tiny water particles settle out.
16. Next connect your pump or filter setup to the standpipe fitting (most filters can gravity filter,
though slowly) and your fuel comes out almost completely clean of water or stearate
contamination.
17. Drying fresh washed BioDiesel is highly suggested since water can damage expensive injector
pumps & injectors. Either Dry using our shower head method or at least let it rest & settle for a
few weeks so any water that may be present can fall out of suspension. Note that resting will not
prevent water from precipitating out of the BioDiesel in your vehicles fuel tank on a cool night,
however heated shower head drying will prevent this from occurring by removal of all the water
that may be present by evaporation until it is bone dry.
Shake Test, a Good way to check if the BioDiesel is completely washed Back to index
Fill a clear soda pop bottle about half way with washed BioDiesel from the wash tank. Shake it up &
let it settle. In about 15 to 20 minutes it should settle out on a nice warm day. Depending on
temperature and humidity and a bunch of other factors, your settling time may take longer.
Notice the nice, clear water on the bottom of the soda bottle. If your water doesn't come out clear or
your BioDiesel forms an emulsion with the water, it means you need to do more washing.
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Notes
a) You can time your mists, or add a sight glass & and check the water level every once in a
while. When the water level is at about 10 gallons (for a 6 standpipe) or 15 gallons (for a 8
stand pipe) turn the mister off.
b) Do not bubble wash while the mister is on it's could be too aggressive & create an emulsion.
After misting the water into the washer let it sit for about 5 minutes after turning off the mister.
Then look for is a nice distinct layering effect such as from the bottom up, a definite water
layer, maybe a small layer of scum (possibly 1 inch thick max), then a distinct BioDiesel layer.
If the "scum" layer is much bigger then 1 inch then you probably have an emulsion and need to
think about breaking it up before moving on. A sight tube works great for this.
c) When you are ready to drain off BioDiesel (and leave behind the water), you drain a little bit
out of the standpipe into a bucket to make sure it is pure BioDiesel, if not, you go to the water
drain, and let out a couple of gallons of water to ensure that the water level is below the level
of the standpipe and that there will be no way for water to contaminate your clean product.
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What else?
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Sometimes you can see that there were stearates in your BioDiesel, that solid curdled-looking white
stuff in the wash tank that you see. It will clog filters. Fortunately it settles to the water/BioDiesel
interface. Just leave it there and clean out the tank once in a while.
The stearate problem is one of the reasons that standpipe tanks work so well. If you use a standpipe
tank, you can drain off a completely stearate free clean BioDiesel product.
However, Dome-bottom tanks tend to leave the stearates in the BioDiesel because the stearates cling
to the walls of the tank while you are draining off all the undesirable water/crud. The stearates will
then stay behind and contaminates the BioDiesel. So just play it safe, make life easy & use a Stand
pipe washer.
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Drying Guide
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Unless you have no alternate WVO sources, you should reject WVO sources that supply you
with water logged or nasty WVO. The energy costs and time required to dry WVO can be significant.
However, if you have no other choice, heating up water logged WVO generally will cause the bulk of
the water to drop out of suspension as it cools. Then you can pump the water out of the bottom of the
WVO tank and go on to testing it for water. If it still contains water you can dry it by using the shower
head heated method before making BioDiesel with it. If your WVO is real nasty & contains solid
grease consider that this may make a higher gel point BioDiesel which may not work well in cool
temperatures, in which case you might want to remove the grease first.
Conventional wisdom on dry BioDiesel is that if it is transparent & not hazy it does not contain
much water at that temperature. BioDiesel is somewhat hygroscopic so it will absorb some small
amount of moisture dependent on the temperature from the air. As that BioDiesel gets colder however,
water can precipitate out of solution & the fuel can release free water. Washed fuel will often look
slightly cloudy or hazy which indicates the presence of water. If you let it sit it will eventually
equilibrate drop or evaporate it's water content. If you want to be sure it is bone dry you can heat it &
circulate it through a shower head to evaporate out any water which it may contain. Another less
energy consuming method is bubbling air through it until it yields clear fuel which should be dry at
that temperature.
Just remember, the better it is washed the faster it will clear since if no soaps remain to hold on to
water, the water will settle out rapidly. So if it refuses to clear in a few days give it another wash.
The following procedures are intended for:

1. Drying following Washing.
2. Removal of bulk water from water logged WVO
3. Drying fairly good WVO prior to processing, to increase your yield by reduction of soap
formation.
Note: For simplicity, the words Oil, BioDiesel or WVO (waste vegetable oil) can be used
interchangeably in these instructions.
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Drying Methods
Heat or Air Drying can be used to dry your Oil. All methods have a downside.
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a) Cold Drying while energy intensive, works best for drying nasty water logged WVO. First
pump out any standing water from the bottom of the drum. Next heat the WVO until liquid &
around 140F the Oil will thin & the water should separate from it. Note that it is important to
get the entire volume of WVO heated especially the bottom oil in the container. Allow the
WVO to stand & cool again, any remaining water should fall to the bottom of the drum where
you can pump it out. Following this it should be dry enough to Dry using one of the normal
methods listed below.
b) Heat Drying uses a lot of energy & time to warm the OIL & to keep it warm until the
absorbed water escapes as a vapor. See Heat only Drying below. We suggest using this in
conjunction with Air Drying (See Combination Drying below). Does not work for pooled
standing water.
c) Static Air Drying Takes a very long time in an open top drum covered with cheese cloth to
keep out bugs & debris. It only works with absorbed water not for pooled standing water.
d) Air Pumping uses an aquarium pump to pump air through a bubbler placed on the bottom of
the container. Air bubbles carry away moisture as they rise to the surface. Takes a long time to
evaporate water & needs relative humidity of less than 50% to be efficient at doing so.
e) Shower Drying by pumping & exposing the oil to the air through a shower head, fountain
style is much more energy efficient & takes a shorter period of time but will not work well
alone if you are in a high humidity area. Humidity below 50% seems to work best with this
method.
f) Combination Drying the two methods Heat & Shower drying combined are an excellent way
to quickly dry. Pumping is combined with heat to drive out water moisture through evaporation
using both heating of the oil & pumping it out fountain style to allow the warmed oil or Ester
to air dry. Combining the two may be the quickest way to dry your OIL in a high relative
humidity area.
g) Heat only Drying, This method is very energy intense & needs to run for hours to remove the
water from your Oil. The lid needs to be off the OIL to be dried & a cloth suspended over the
top to keep out debris. Either direct heating of the liquid or indirect heating can be used.
b. Direct Heating, Use a metal insulated drum & use a heating element located down inside
the drum just a little way off the bottom. Unless you have plenty of time, try to use at
least 1000 Watts upwards to 2500 Watts of heat for a thermally insulated 55 gallon drum
processor. 1500 watts of heat will heat 40 gallons of WVO from 60F to 120F in about 2
hours, 2500 watts will do it in around an hour. Be aware that heater element surface
exposure matters. A big wattage element in a small size concentrates the heat, causing the
possibility of burnt WVO & can shorten the element life span considerably due to stuff
90
baking onto the element thermally insulating it & causing it to overheat. Dont use a
direct heating element if you are using a Plastic drum!
c. Indirect Heating can be used to pre-warm you WVO for the process tank or to cause
excess water in water logged WVO to fall out of suspension. Use a Commercial 55 gallon
steel drum heater band. These drum heater bands are thermostat controlled & mount to
the exterior of the drum below the bottom rib. The heater bands come in 110VAC or
220VAC and are rated 1000 Watts. Normally you would apply insulation over the outside
of the drum & the heater to keep the heat in. The top would remain open to allow water
vapor to escape. You can purchase them from most industrial supply stores such as
Granger or Harbor Freight for around $70. Another method involves using heat &
chemical resistant tubing. Some have reported using soft copper tubing (it may corrode
over time though). Hot water radiant floor heating tubing may work for this application
but you do so at your own risk. You place a coil of it inside of your tank & pump hot
water through it to heat your oil. Im told that hot water radiant heaters used in the home
use a pump that is ideal for this application. Perhaps the heat source could be a point of
use instant hot water heater. Please note that you should not use antifreeze water in an
indirect heating application such as this if you plan on heating your BioDiesel reaction
Processor for Transesterification since Methoxide may release toxic gas (if you have a
leak) on contact with the antifreeze water.
2. Air Drying, used when you have NO standing water in the bottom of your oil drum, if
any moisture exists you must first drain or pump out standing water before attempting to
air dry the Oil or it will not dry. Please reference Cold Drying above. To Air Dry you
pump your Oil through a shower head. This means your Oil must be a thin enough liquid
or you risk burning out your pump. If your oil is thick enough to warrant heat to liquefy it
before pumping then you must use the Combination Drying technique below. Liquid
WVO or BioDiesel can be Air Dried by pumping from the bottom of the tank & spray it
through the air then allowing it to fall back by gravity into the same drum. You would
keep recirculating the liquid Oil in this manor until it contains no more water. One way to
test for water is to drop a 1000 Watt heater down into the Oil & watching to see if water
boils off the heater. Little bubbles boiling off the heater indicates that water is still
present. As you can see, you will need a heater anyway so the decision is up to you to
determine if you wish to heat & air dry as we suggest or simply air dry only & use the
heater simply to test for water. Air Drying typically is used when relative humidity
conditions are less than 50%.
Go here for another way to test for presence of water.
3. Combination Drying, works by heating the oil & using evaporation to dry the water.
This works best for high relative humidity areas and to dry quicker. Always insure you
have NO standing water in the bottom of your OIL drum, if any exists remove it by
draining or pumping it out before attempting to dry the Oil. Your Oil must be a liquid or
you risk burning out your pump. Start up your heater & then your pump just as soon as
the oil is liquid enough to pump keep heating it while you Air Dry it. You will be
pumping the Oil from the bottom of the tank & spraying it up through the air then
allowing it to fall back into the same drum of Oil. Try to maintain a temperature of
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around 120F. You keep recirculating it fountain style in this manor until it looks nice &
clear, indicating it contains no more water. Water will make WVO look milky. One way
to test for presence of water is to drop a 1000 Watt heater down into the Oil then
watching & listening to see if any water boils off the heater. Just make sure you do not
run the heater without being submerged or it will overheat & burn up in short order. Little
bubbles boiling off the submersed heater indicate that water is still present. When Air
Drying it typically takes an hour or less if the humidity is 50% or lower, if your humidity
is higher than that it will take a bit longer.
Go here for another way to test for presence of water
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What Dry BioDiesel should look like
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If made from WVO your BioDiesel should look like a clear amber colored liquid at this stage (the
shade of color is highly dependent on the base feed stock). It should be clear enough that you should
be able to read through it. If made from Fresh Vegetable Oil your BioDiesel should look almost clear
without color. If it opaque looks like fresh Orange Juice, then it still contains water & needs more
drying. If you are drying WVO, then when dry it should be translucent & not milky looking.
How do I test the dryness of my oil or BD

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To test for dryness of your oil you will need to get a microwave able disposable plastic container,
weigh it with an accurate scale down to the nearest .01 gram (write down this number & call it
container weight). Next put around 300 grams of your oil into it & weigh it, then subtract the weight
of the empty container from this new weight & write it down (call it raw oil weight). Next,
microwave the oil (pausing occasionally to stir it) until it reaches 250F degrees. Very carefully remove
the HOT Container from the microwave & stir the oil to allow any moisture present to evaporate.
Once cool, weight the oil again (remembering to subtract the weight of the container) & write down
this number (call it finished weight). Now, subtract the finished weight from the raw oil weight &
write down this number (call it the difference). Next divide the raw oil weight into the difference &
multiply times 100 to get the percentage of water in your raw oil. Since water makes soap, WVO
should test lower than .5% (one half of one percent) or you should do more drying.
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Resting & Testing your BioDiesel
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Resting
After washing & drying your BioDiesel, it should be allowed to rest. The Resting process allows
small particles to precipitate out of suspension & onto the bottom of the storage drum. This helps to save
expensive filters from premature clogging. The time BioDiesel should Rest varies on many factors such as
how thoroughly was your washing & drying done as well as how cold is the BioDiesel. As BioDiesel
cools off the viscosity will change & it becomes a bit thicker at room temperature than at your 120F
process temperature. This is why you should ideally start resting the BioDiesel while it is still hot
following Drying & use an insulated settling drum to keep it warm as long as possible. When BioDiesel is
at room temperature very tiny 2 micron particles take a long time to precipitate to the bottom of the drum.
If the temperature is low enough that your BioDiesel reaches Cloud Point or Gel Point you may find it
takes a very long time indeed! Ideally BioDiesel should be allowed to rest for 30 days for these small
particles to fall out of suspension, However you can use it before then if you must but please let it Rest at
least 48 to 72 hours & check the bottom of the drum with a flashlight to look for water. Never pump from
the very bottom of the container. Water will look like a mirror floating on the BOTTOM of the drum
under the BioDiesel. If present, you must separate your BioDiesel from the water! As significant water in
your fuel can cause damage in your diesel engine, please take precautions to insure all water has been
removed before use. Some people use a settling drum that has a spigot mounted in the side a little way up
from the bottom so that BioDiesel can be pulled out clean & dry. The bottom layer then gets tossed into
the next wash batch & rewashed & dried.
Testing
Before you use it, you should test your BioDiesel to see how it behaves as the temperature drops. This
is very easy to do & can give piece of mind on cool nights. Simply take a sample of your finished
BioDiesel & put it in a pint size Mason Jar, screw the lid on tight & pop it into the refrigerator to see what
happens. Monitor it periodically to check for the presence of over all haziness, if you see this it indicates
that the fuel is not dry enough. Look for any traces of a Smokey cloud looking formation on the bottom,
this indicates the presence of Soap which is precipitating out & can clog your vehicles expensive fuel
filters. If present, you should do some more washing of your fuel or allow more settling time before you
use it.
Of course the above tests presume you are not living in Death Valley where it is hot most of the
summer. Tests should be done to simulate the worst case scenario of the area you live in & the present
season (winter, spring, summer, and fall) that you are going to use it in.
Sometimes, it can be hard to tell if the fuel has clouded up due to condensation on the exterior of the
Mason Jar when you remove it from the cooler. If this is the case, you can try an Ice Bath. Simply put
some crushed ice into a reasonably large container & stir in some table salt. This will cause the ice to melt
really fast & become super cold. Unscrew the lid & put your Mason Jar of BioDiesel into the ice bath
(keeping out the ice & water). Gently stir the BioDiesel while pausing occasionally to monitor both the
appearance of it & the current temperature of it.
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First Filtering of your BioDiesel
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Why Filter fuel at all?

The biggest single thing to impact the diesel market is poor storage & handling of diesel fuel.
Most of the evidence points that way anyway. The problem relates to the micron filtration size, water
contamination of commercially available fuels & the modernization of newer diesel engines that
require high tolerances (very close fitting components) in the fuel delivery system.
A decade or so ago the maximum diesel fuel system pressures rarely exceeded 3000 PSI, today
however the pressures can reach 30,000 PSI & this is a problem that is going to get worse.
Injector pumps are really nothing much different than a hydraulic pump designed to handle fuel
delivery. In the closely related field of hydraulics systems, a decade ago a problem started surfacing
with the higher pressure systems. Failure of pumps & valves that had lasted thousands of operational
hours previously were dying at an alarming rate & upon close examination it was discovered that ultra
fine particles were causing the failures. This was not a problem with the lower pressure hydraulic
systems in the 1000 PSI range but as the pressures increased the problem became more pronounced.
Laboratory work found that particles in the 5 to 10 micron size were very abrasive & were the cause of
the shorter system component life. Unfortunately, it turns out that 7 microns was the perfect fit
between micro machined surfaces and that the presence of 5 to 10 micron particles were grinding
away this surface finish causing accelerated wear & early failures in these high pressure systems. The
fix was to use ultra fine filtration to clean the hydraulic fluid to acceptable levels.
According to oil refinery industry sources the fuel leaves the refinery filtered to around 30
microns. This leaves a lot of smaller particles unfiltered. Along the fuel delivery trail opportunities for
dirt creep come into play. Diesel truck stops typically only filter to 30 micron size & when fuel
delivery starts to slow down, some unscrupulous fuel stations have been known to remove the filter
entirely or punch holes in it rather than pay for an expensive new filter. We have heard that most on
board vehicle fuel filters only filter to 15 micron size. That means quantities of this ultra fine particle
grit is silently but effectively killing the high pressure diesel fuel pumps & injectors by grinding away
at them each & every mile you drive. Gradually a decrease in fuel mileage become evident but the
damage by that time has been done.
Catapillar is leading the way by requiring ultra fine on board filtration. CAT truck engines are now
using 2 micron fuel filters. Fortunately, this act is beginning to awaken the industry & 2 micron filters
are becoming more common place.
Some fleets of big rigs are now adding on board low micron secondary fuel filters in combination
with fuel-water separators & fuel heaters. Some go further & drain off tank bottoms at PM servicing.
In freezing conditions some add 1 pint of isopropyl alcohol (99%) to every fuel tank monthly in an
attempt to dry up any water in the tank.
The production of BioDiesel also can have dirt creep from storage tanks, paint chips from your
tanks, dust exposure from the air & simply metal particles from the pipes, pumps & such.
Just remember The morel of this story is that grit kills $$expensive Injector Pumps and good
filters while expensive are still a heck of a lot cheaper than a new Injector Pump! Always filter your
BioDiesel!
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Filtration Guide
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Filtering -Your BioDiesel can be filtered as it is put into your final storage drum to remove
contaminates & any water that you missed. Use of at least a 30 micron filter but a 20 micron filter or finer
would be preferred. Since Filters can be expensive, it is best to filter in stages. Start with relatively large
micron size filter & work down in micron size, your filters will last longer this way. When dispensing your
BioDiesel into your vehicles fuel tank, you should final filter it to the particle specification range required by
your vehicles engine. Normally this will be in the 10 to 2 micron range. Simply run it through one last 2
micron filter while using your electric Fuel dispensing pump. Use of fuel metering is optional but helps you
know how much fuel you are putting in your tank so you can calculate MPG if you are so inclined.
How to Filter BioDiesel Many different methods exist for fuel filtering. Whatever method you
choose, just make sure your fuel at least meets with the minimum particle fuel requirements of your vehicle.
For the first filtering, some people use an inexpensive household string wound water filters to filter out the big
stuff, we use a 10 micron wool element Fuel Oil filter made by General Filter (see Filter Sources). The
inexpensive General Filter replacement elements cost around $3 each & as an added benefit can be cleaned
with water, dried & then reused if they ever get clogged up with soap or glycerol. We suggest using a good
quality final filter before vehicle use, this is best done in steps by doing a second or even third filtering with
progressively smaller micron particle capture size filters. Various types of filters are available from cartridge
to canister. Cartridge types have a durable reusable housing and cost more initially but pay for themselves
later as you purchase replacement cartridges for less money generally than you would for canister filters.
Canister filters are familiar to us all as the common oil filter used in the family car. These canister filters cost
more since you are paying for the steel screw on housing, however they are cleaner & faster to replace than
the cartridge type filter. The choice is your to make.
One serious problem or concern that is common when filtering is the rate of fluid flow. Most filters are
designed to be placed in the suction side of your pump, this helps to protect against too high a pressure
differential across the filter causing media blowout since the laws of physics say you cannot exceed an
absolute vacuum. If you put the filter on the pressure side of a pump you may push too hard because the
pressure can always be increased up to the limits of the pump, this results in on of two things happening,
either the filter bypass pressure is attained causing the filter media to get bypassed or the BioDiesel will
simply burst a hole in the filter media, either one will result in the BioDiesel still being dirty even though you
believe it has been filtered! This can lead to premature failure of your expensive Injector Pump due to dirt or
grit in your fuel.
With too low a rate of fluid flow through your filter & pump, you will get excellent filter results but
your pump may fail due to fluid starvation & overheat because of having to work so hard. One solution to this
is to use a filter with a flow rate that is grossly over rated for your use & to monitor the pressure drop across
the filter with two gauges (one at both the input & output side) so you can monitor line pressure & pressure
drop across the filter to prevent filter bypass or blow out & pump damage from occurring due to insufficient
flow & excess line pressure. Doing that however that is a costly solution. A much cheaper & simpler solution
to this problem is to simply not use a liquid pump to push or pull your BioDiesel through the filter at all & to
simply use gravity to slowly push your BioDiesel through a filter. Another slightly more expensive solution is
to use a slight amount of air pressure ( around 5 to 15 PSI ) to push BioDiesel through a filter media. This
compressed air push filtration method is the way we do it because it is simple, cheap & reliable.
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Building the Pressure Filter tank
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We have had fairly good success with using low pressure compressed air to push BioDiesel
through a filtration media. We use this approach with the 10 micron General Fuel Oil Filter model 1A-
25A. A cheaper alternate method that can be used is gravity to force the BioDiesel through the filter
slowly. Since compressed air has great expansion capabilities we have found this is a much better
approach than pumping the BioDiesel through & quicker than relying on gravity. If you already have
an air compressor & an air regulator great! Here is how we do it. However this same tank is capable of
using gravity to push BioDiesel through a filter as well, you will simply have to vent it so it does not
create a vacuum as the BioDiesel exits the tank.
Get an old intact Hot Water Heater big enough to hold the amount of BioDiesel that you want to filter.
It will need 3 ports on the top & one port on the bottom. The three top ports will be used for filling
your tank with BioDiesel, venting your tank of air pressure while filling it & to put regulated air
pressure into your tank for pushing out the BioDiesel through the Filter which by the way is located on
the bottom tank port.
1. Remove the pipe fittings, any skins & such from the water heater tank as they are not needed.
2. Removal of the old elements is suggested but optional, if removed the holes will need to be patched
over by wielding a patch over the hole or screwing in a pipe fitting plug
3. Clean up the tank, inside & out. Roll it around with pea gravel inside may help in severe cases. It
needs to be reasonably clean but will work even if dirty but may clog filters if too much dirt remains.
4. Slap on a good coat of paint to make it look pretty & protect it against rust.
5. Using pipe fittings & appropriate pipe fitting sealant, screw in elbows, ball valves & nipples as
appropriate to your situation but what you want is 3 top tank ports, one is a valved port that is used to
fill your tank with BioDiesel, One is a valved port that gets used to vent your tank while filling it or to
bleed off air, One is a valved port used to put regulated air pressure into your tank to push out the
BioDiesel through the Filter which is located on the one valved bottom port.
6. A large air compressor is not required, however you will need a good air pressure gauge (one in the 25
or 50 PSI range with clear markings) and a good air pressure regulator. Both of these can be
satisfactorily obtained from Harbor Freight for around $25 total.
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Pressure Filter Tank Ports
Left to Right
Top: Fill port, Vent port, and Air inlet port with air pressure regulator
Bottom: Port is clean BioDiesel Outlet filter port
Note: all ports use ball valves to open & close ports.
Note: the 2 patches over the old heater element holes.
Ignore the white hose on top & the orange power cord bottom R in the photo
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How to use your new BioDiesel filtering tank
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1. Open up the Vent & the BioDiesel Fill ball valve ports.
2. Make sure all other ports have the ball valves closed.
3. Pump in your BioDiesel being careful not to overfill the tank.
4. Close the Vent & Fill ball valved ports.
5. Open the Filter ball valve port.
6. Hook up an air compressor air source to the tanks air regulator & adjust it for minimal (no) air
pressure.
7. Open the compressed air ball valve port.
Note: Very little air pressure should be required to get a reasonable rate of flow through your BioDiesel
filter. Monitoring the BioDiesel flow, slowly increase the air pressure into the tank, (Do not exceed safe tank
pressure operating limits or your filters flow rate)
8. When finished filtering your BioDiesel, close the 2 open ball valves & open the vent ball valve to
drain the air from the tank, remember to disconnect the air supply hose from the air compressor.
9. You should filter your BioDiesel using a finer filter when dispensing into your vehicle. Check with
your dealer for your vehicles Fuel filtration requirements regarding Diesel fuel specifications.
Normally 10 microns for the older 1990 & earlier vintage engines with perhaps as low as 1 or 2
micron requirement for Late model diesel engines. Check our web site for engine manufacturers fuel
specifications
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Pumping BioDiesel & Final Filtration techniques
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Pumping can be done with an inexpensive simple hand cranked drum pump, a Drill operated liquid
transfer pump, or a more elaborate electrical pump may be utilized such as a Tuthill brand pump.
Electric Tuthill fuel pumps look & operate similar to the standard gas station pumps we all know.
They have a fuel delivery nozzle & hose just like the local filling station. The hose is connected to a
pump body that rests on a fuel pick up dip tube. The dip tube extends down into a fuel drum full of fuel.
Note: Since a 55 gallon drum of BioDiesel weighs near 400 LB & is not easily moved around unless
you put it on a drum dolly. We suggest a Haul Master Polypropylene 1200 LB capacity movers
dolly p/n 92823-1VGA from http://www.harborfreight.com for $60. This makes a safe & nice
roll around BioDiesel fuel station.
1. The simple hand cranked pump has a dip tube & fitting that gets screwed into the large bung hole on a
closed top steel or poly drum. A 1 ID hose gets slipped onto the outlet tube & clamped in place.
Downside to this setup is that connecting a Final Filter to the pump is darn near impossible. You
would tire quickly of trying to push the BioDiesel through a 2 micron final filter with one. One of
these pumps can be purchased for anywhere between $20 for a cheap Chinese one to $90 or better for
an American made one.
2. A viable cheap alternative to using the Hand Cranked Pump is an Electric Drill Operated Liquid
Transfer Pump. While most are not suitable, this one provides promise Multipurpose Drill-Powered
Pump located at http://www.northerntool.com for just $15. It is rated for Organic solvents, Motor oil,
& Insecticides. We have found it is not suitable for WVO transfer, however feel it would function ok
for BioDiesel fuel delivery provided the pump inlet port was connected to a ball valve located below
the BioDiesel liquid level. This pump does not prime well or work with viscous fluids, however once
it gets a prime & is used with a reasonably low viscosity liquid, it does pump very well. Be aware that
this pump uses ID hose to connect to its two plastic barbed inlet & outlet ports. Using reinforced
ID vinyl hose should work well. Connecting it to a final filter should not pose much of a problem.
Connecting the pump inlet to a dip tube made of plastic pipe that extends down into your fuel drum
should be easy to construct. Use a variable speed electric drill to power the pump & do not exceed the
filters rated flow when fueling your vehicle.
3. The Tuthill electric fuel pump can be plumbed to accept a final fuel filter in the outlet port. This is
how many get plumbed. The pump is available in 115VAC, 24VDC or 12VDC as well as standard or
heavy duty delivery volume models. This is the deluxe way to go. If you are going to use unwashed
BioDiesel you may want to inquire Tuthill about chemically resistant seals & hoses regarding
compatibility to methanol & if Viton seals or hoses are available. Unwashed BioDiesel Methyl Esters
are very on regular rubber components.
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Storing BioDiesel Fuel
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1. Properly Stored BioDiesel fuel can last many months. Normally however it is not advised to store for
extended periods of time. If you must store it though, make sure that all moisture has been removed
from the fuel & that the storage containers do not contain any algae, dirt or scum from previous liquids
they contained. Make sure the containers are not rusty inside or contain any reactive metals such as
zinc, copper or aluminum as oxides that may be formed resulting from contact with moisture
precipitating out of solution due to temperature fluctuation could be transferred to your fuel pump &
injectors causing damage. Stored BioDiesel should be placed into steel metal containers & filled
almost all the way up to the brim to avoid exposure to any air & the oxidation that it may create.
Short term storage of BioDiesel can be done in Steel or Poly drums. They should be kept out of direct
sunlight to prevent over expansion of the contents & reduce potential exposure to rain.
What to do with Waste Glycerol

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Presto style Logs: Since waste glycerol burns, you can mix it with wood chips or shavings & once
saturated, press the mixture into a mold such as a milk carton or other such suitable mold. Pop it out &
allow it to air dry. After the methanol has evaporated they make great presto style logs.
Use it as Fuel: While waste Glycerol will burn, it does not readily support combustion on its own
& it may be necessary to Co-burn another fuel to keep it burning. A modified Babington burner can be
made that will burn this fuel with a very high BTU output. See Waste Oil Burner at
http://www.green-trust.org/oil_burner.htm for further information or look on the internet for plans on
how to make it. This burner uses the blow hole principle of the whale. A high velocity air stream
blows through a nozzle or slit, the Glycerol fuel runs over the outside of this nozzle & gets picked up
by the air stream atomizing it into a fine mist. The Babington burner can easily achieve a temperature
of 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit. & because the burner produces such high heat, there are no emissions. If
you generate enough Glycerol waste, one good use would be use it in conjunction with a boiler tube to
fire a home heating Hydronic heat system, nothing beats Free Home Heating in the winter!
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Make Hand Soap
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Waste glycerol may not make pretty looking soap but it will make pretty good soap. This stuff should
be used after evaporating out the remaining methanol.
How to Make Hand Soap out of waste Glycerol
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1. Strain the Glycerol through an old pair of pantyhose to remove impurities. Heating it up slightly
may be required to turn it liquid again.
2. Heat Glycerol in an old stainless steel pot to150F to evaporate the methanol..
3. In another stainless steel pot measure out 1 Qt of water per gallon of Glycerol & heat to 100F.
4. Add 5.5 oz. of Red Devil Lye per gallon of glycerin to the 100F water & mix until dissolved. Do
not breath fumes.
5. Pour the water/lye mixture into the glycerin & continue to heat the glycerin for another ten minutes
while mixing. Allow to mix for an additional ten minutes (20 mins. total) at slow speed.
6. The mixture may foam up slightly and form soap bubbles, this is ok. After mixing is complete, the
soap can be poured into a container and allowed to cool.
7. You will need two 28 qt. Plastic sweater containers for 3 gallons of soap at 1 1/2" thick. Pour the
soap into the containers at the desired thickness and cover with a piece of cardboard or plywood to
help hold the heat in, and let set for 24 hrs.
8. After cooling the 24 hr, the soap will be ready to be removed and cut into bars. Use a butter knife
or putty knife to slice around the inside edge of the container so you can release the green soap
from the sides.
9. Quickly turn the container upside down over a piece of newspaper or cardboard. You may need to
tap lightly on the bottom of the container to help it release and drop out. You should now have an
evenly shaped "slab" of green soap which can be cut into individual bars. Each slab will produce
about 45 bars of soap measuring 2" X 3" each.
10. Allow soap to age & dry in a cool area for 1 to 2 weeks before using. When first cut the soap will
appear dark in color, but will lighten to a tan color as drying progresses. The resulting soap is a
long lasting bar with good cleansing abilities leaving no greasy residues.
11. This soap can be stored in plastic zip lock bags or placed in plastic tubs in layers with waxed paper
in between each layer and kept in a cool place until ready for use.
12. Fragrances or dyes can be added during the mixing process to improve color and scent. Some
people use freshly squeezed oranges for the citric acid, which helps with cutting grease, and gives
the soap a citrus aroma. Another idea is to scent it cinnamon since it is naturally a brownish color.
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Total cost per bar of soap is under 15 cents per bar.
All about Pumps
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BioDiesel is by nature a very good solvent & as such it will attack rubber & some plastics. Various
pumps use these materials to one degree or another & this can pose an issue regarding replacement
cost.
Pumps fall into a couple of categories, Self Priming & not Self Priming.
Types of pumps vary, Diaphragm Pumps, Piston Pumps, Gear Pumps, Sliding Vane Pumps, Impeller
Pumps, and Venturi Pumps.
Diaphragm Pumps Designed for Chemical applications contain a pliable diaphragm that
flexes to displace a liquid. These pumps are used in many chemical dispensing applications. They are
by nature both simple & expensive. The materials used in making them is normally an expensive
exotic fluorine based material such as Teflon or Viton. They are usually operated by an air drive
actuated with an electric solenoid & control circuitry. Normally beyond the scope & pricing of do-it-
yourselfers. Inexpensive Air compressors can use a rubber diaphragm connected to a piston plate
which is moved up & down by a direct drive electric motor. Gast air compressors use this type of
diaphragm configuration.
Piston Pumps Commonly used in air compressors, can be used for precise positive chemical
fluid displacement pumping applications. The cheaper oil less air compressor use a direct drive electric
motor which drives a piston made of aluminum & that is sealed with a nylon piston ring. Better air
compressors use a belt drive to connect the air compressor & the motor, they also use a metal piston
with cast iron piston rings to seal the piston. Chemical fluid displacement piston pumps are normally
reserved for applications that do not require a large delivery volume. The materials used in making
them is normally ceramic or an expensive exotic fluorine based material such as Teflon or Viton. They
are usually operated by an air drive actuated with an electric solenoid & control circuitry. Normally
beyond the scope & pricing of do-it-yourselfers.
Gear Pumps These pumps are designed for high pressure & or high volume applications.
They are not normally designed for handling highly flammable or corrosive liquids. Pricing on these
pumps is relatively high but not beyond reason for a do-it-yourselfer. Normally driven by an externally
coupled electric motor. Applications in industry include Hydraulic Pumps. The seals in these
Hydraulic Pumps are not designed for corrosive fluids, however some people successfully use them in
BioDiesel production for mixing the BioDiesel as well as transferring BioDiesel & WVO. Hydraulic
pumps, provided they are sized properly are ideal for both these applications.
Oil transfer pumps such as the Teal pump carried by Grainger work very well for transferring
WVO as we can attest. Ours is a mid size Teal pump (approximately $250), we drive it with a 1HP
direct drive 1725RPM electric motor from Harbor Freight ($99). It pumps 55 gallons of 72F WVO in
approximately 8 minutes through two 10 foot long 1 ID hoses with a 3.5 foot long dip tube attached.
Automotive gear pumps include Engine Oil Pumps. As a cheaper alternative to buying a $200 or
more Hydraulic Gear Pump, some people have successfully coupled a brand new high volume racing
oil pump (approximately $69 new) from a V8 GM to an electric motor. These engine oil pumps lack
an oil seal as they were designed to operate inside an engine to pump oil where a bit of oil seepage
doesnt matter. In applications where pumping WVO they work very well due to the heavy viscosity
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of the oil. In BioDiesel mixing applications they pose a hazard due to the probability of leaking
methanol causing a fire danger.
Sliding Vane Pumps Can be made to pump air or liquids. Commonly used with an electric
motor to pump an air vacuum. Depending on design, they can be used for transferring flammable
materials. These fluid transfer pumps are driven by hand cranks or by electric motors. Common
applications include Barrel Pumps, drill operated insecticide pumps & the Tuthill brand electric fuel
delivery pumps. Vary in price from mid range $250 to inexpensive around $15 for a drill operated
pump See Here. Generally they are not designed to handle viscous fluids. They usually contain a
number of vanes that slide up & down a track to follow the internal contours of the pump body. The
vane is thrown against the pump body by centrifugal force due to the spinning action of the rotor. A
rather light weight material such as carbon or aluminum or plastic is commonly used as the vane
material. Since the vanes generally are so light, centrifugal force cannot overcome the viscosity of a
heavy bodied material such as WVO which renders them useless for pumping it. Lighter viscosity
materials such as diesel fuel or methanol are easily handled by them provided the seals are resistant to
any chemical attack & the pump is rated for the flammability requirements of the liquid.
Impeller Pumps This is a common type of pump used to pump water. The case is slightly
larger than the impeller, no physical contact between the two. The impeller can look like an old
fashioned water wheel or a turbine. They are generally directly driven by an electric motor. Because
the impeller has an air gap all the way around & does not contact the case, these pumps are not self
priming. The Harbor Freight 1 Clear Water Pump we are so fond of falls under this category. The
Harbor Freight Clear Water Pump is not designed for a corrosive chemical pumping application,
however it works remarkably well in this application provided you design it to be self draining when
you empty out your BioDiesel & do not allow BioDiesel to remain inside of it for extended periods of
time. The rubber seals will fail at some point in time, however this can easily be accepted due to the
very cheap cost of these pumps. This pump can be obtained for as low as $25 on sale & this includes
the built in HP electric motor! Operational life expectancy is over 1 year in BioDiesel production &
WVO transfer applications.
Some special impeller pumps are self priming due to rubber or plastic flexible impeller vanes
which contact the walls of the pump body providing a positive seal. These are generally not
chemically resistant pumps.
Venturi Pumps Fall under 2 types, (air or water driven) however both are operationally
identical. A fluid or gas is passed under pressure through a venturi. The principle of a venturi is to
create a vacuum on a port on the opposite side that draws fluid or gases through this vacuum port. In
older automobiles this was the way carburetors drew fuel in to mix with air. Another application that
we have all seen is the water hose attachment that magically sucks up liquids such as water in a
flooded out basement. These pumps do not have much use in BioDiesel production.
Screw Pump Primarily used now days to move huge volumes of air in industrial applications.
In olden times the Archimedes screw was used to pump water up hill but is not much used now days.
This type of pump has no realistic application in BioDiesel production.
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Water Ram Pump Doesnt have much in moving parts, is very inefficient. It uses the weight
of falling liquid to pump aprox 1/8 of that volume up hill to 5x the falling liquid head height. No real
world application in BioDiesel production.
Cryo Pump Uses Cryogenics (extreme cold) to cause molecules to migrate to the coldest area
& evacuates the area of vapors & gasses by sublimation (frost buildup). Commonly used in a vacuum
chamber. Industrial applications include semiconductor manufacturing & freeze drying of food. No
real use in BioDiesel Production, however may have a use in Methanol Reclamation from waste
Glycerol.
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The History of BioDiesel
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After much experimentation, Rudolph Diesel (the father of the Diesel engine), first used Peanut
Oil as the fuel for his experimental engine which he unveiled at the 1898 Exhibition Fair in Paris
France. He thought that using Bio Fuel (natural vegetable oils) was the best fuel for his engine. He
was hopeful that his new engine would provide a way for the common man to power small industries
& farm equipment & compete with the big industrial industries of the time that were using steam
powered equipment. The result was impressive to say the least & diesel engines were here to stay.
The first diesel engines were powered by vegetable oils until the 1920s.
Unfortunately, the Oil Barons of the 1920s held great influence in industry, financial &
political circles. They forced the diesel engine manufacturers to alter the fuel systems of diesel
engines so they were optimized to run the lower viscosity fossil fuel residue that was their waste
byproduct of manufacturing gasoline. This new fuel was named diesel fuel. Until then it had been used
exclusively to fuel home heating furnaces. This had the effect of eventually eliminating the earlier
production infrastructure for the natural vegetable oil Bio Fuel industry upon which the previous
diesels had relied on. Thus the concept of Bio Fueled Diesels was pushed into obscurity & erased from
our public consciousness.
In the 1940s, BioDiesel (BioLipid Transesterification of oil) was patented in the US by
Colgate-Palmolive when many researchers were looking for ways to produce glycerin more readily for
use in WWII munitions. It is believed that the process may have been discovered much earlier by
others. BioDiesel was used by many nations to power local trucking industries during WWII. One of
the first uses of transesterified vegetable oil commonly referred to as BioDiesel was powering heavy
duty vehicles in South Africa before World War II. BioDiesel fuel has since fueled many vehicles &
tallied up millions of miles of successful use & history. Today BioDiesel is seen by many as a viable
commercial industry to compete with the fossil fuel supplying OPEC nations.
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Running on SVO Straight Vegetable Oil?
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Raw vegetable oil cannot be ran in most diesel engines without extreme vehicle modifications
installing a lot of expensive special heaters, hoses, controllers & fuel tanks, at a high $ cost. Raw
vegetable oil known as SVO (straight vegetable oil). Further more Straight Vegetable Oil or SVO is
not registered with the EPA as a legal motor vehicle fuel.
EPA motor vehicle legal BioDiesel is intended to replace petroleum diesel as a fuel in Diesel
engines. A common question is why not just use the straight vegetable oil (SVO), rather than going to
the trouble to convert it into BioDiesel. After all, Rudolf Diesel did initially invent his diesel engine to
run on pure vegetable oil. Besides legality, there are a couple of reasons why SVO isnt as appealing
as BioDiesel.
First and foremost, is the fact that modern diesel engines use high pressure injection pumps,
which will not tolerate thick or viscous fluids. The viscosity of vegetable oil is considerably higher
than BioDiesel made from that oil. Most vegetable oils have viscosities around 30-50 centistokes,
BioDiesel is similar to #2diesel & has a viscosity range of between 1.9 to 6.0 centistokes, while
#2diesel fuel has a viscosity range of between 1.3 to 5.8 centistokes. If a person were to just pour
vegetable oil into their fuel tank, the fuel pump would fail fairly quickly (in most vehicles) due to the
strain of pumping the very viscous oil.
The viscosity problem can be gotten around by using a system to heat the vegetable oil before
it gets to the pump and reduce its viscosity to an acceptable level, however this can lead to injector
pump failures due to overheating. Even though the risk of expensive Injector Pump damage due to
overheating is very real, this approach has been taken by many people as it provides a method for them
to run their diesel vehicle on free waste vegetable oil from restaurants without having to go to the
trouble of turning it into BioDiesel. It is an expensive, risky & labor intensive undertaking to convert a
modern diesel to run on WVO. The most common approach is to put in a second fuel tank for the oil,
use the coolant system of the vehicle to heat the second fuel tank of SVO along with heating all the
fuel lines & filters. The vehicle is started on either diesel or BioDiesel, and once the engine (and
therefore the coolant) has heated up to operating temperature, usually somewhere around 200F on
most vehicles, the car can switch to extracting fuel from the auxiliary tank holding the heated SVO.
The SVO approach can work, but as we stated, it is not legal & is an expensive & time
consuming undertaking to do the conversion not to mention could well destroy the trade in value of
your vehicle & most certainly would void the warranty. Items for concern are the thermal load on the
injection pump (overheating) & concerns about coking or carbon buildup on the injectors & inside the
cylinders. It can present a challenging project for the mechanically inclined, and many people have
modified older diesel vehicles to run on straight vegetable oil in this manner. If you live in an area
where your vehicle must pass vehicle emission requirements & are still considering this conversion,
you would be well advised to check with your local vehicle emissions monitoring personnel to see
what they have to say on the subject. You could well find that they will not issue an emission sticker
for your vehicle!
The main draw back we see with this approach is that most modern fuel injection pumps will
suffer from increased wear due to the high temperature requirement of the SVO or WVO fuel. The
injector pumps simply arent designed to tolerate having 200F liquid flowing through them.
Additionally, straight vegetable oil does not burn as cleanly as BioDiesel (in large part due to the
presence of the glycerin in the SVO), resulting in worse emissions, carbon buildup on fuel injectors
107
and inside the engine. Reports of early Polymerization of the motor oil is a concern which if left
uncorrected could lead to engine seizure & destruction. All in all, the effect on the injectors, injection
pump, and inside the engine make a vehicle running on SVO less reliable, and more polluting than a
vehicle running on BioDiesel. Please check the price of having a new Injector Pump & injectors
installed in your vehicle before starting any SVO or WVO conversion. You may well decide the risk
does not justify the cost! IP pumps are $expensive$ and not an item most people can install themselves
so you would certainly be paying a mechanic to install a new one as well!
A final reason for converting vegetable oil into BioDiesel can be seen by comparing the
melting points for the fatty acids to those of their methyl esters. The methyl esters (BioDiesel) all have
lower melting points than their corresponding non-converted fatty acids. This means that SVO or
WVO will solidify at much warmer temperatures than will BioDiesel. The result is that straight
vegetable oil would be more difficult to pump & use in cold or even moderate temperatures than
BioDiesel.
Raw Oils their melting point and Iodine

Values
Oil Approx. melting Iodine
point F Value
Coconut oil 77.0 10
Palm kernel oil 75.2 37
Mutton tallow 107.6 40
Beef tallow 50
Palm oil 95.0 54
Olive oil 21.2 81
Castor oil -0.40 85
Peanut oil 37.4 93
Rapeseed oil 14.0 98
Cotton seed oil 30.2 105
Sunflower oil 1.4 125
Soybean oil 3.2 130
Tung oil 29.3 168
Linseed oil -11.2 178
Sardine oil . 185
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What is the Cetane number, & What does it mean?
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Cetane number is an important characteristic of diesel fuels, just as octane is important for
gasoline. Whereas octane measures how well a gasoline fuel resists early detonation (known as auto
ignition, dieseling or knocking), the Cetane number is a measure of how easily the fuel auto ignites
from compression or diesels in a diesel engine. Whereas gasoline engines use a spark to ignite the fuel
(spark ignition), diesel engines use compression alone, with no spark. Diesel engines are therefore
referred to as compression ignition engines. Cetane number is a measure of how readily the fuel
ignites under compression. The higher the cetane number, the more readily the fuel ignites in the
engine. Therefore, a Cetane number close to 50 is preferable since modern vehicle diesel engines are
designed to burn 45 to 50 Cetane fuel with anything above Cetane 50 a waste of money. The method
for measuring Cetane is to use an engine specifically designed for that purpose known as a cetane
engine. ASTM D 613 (ASTM is the American Society for Testing and Materials, and establishes
specifications for a variety of chemicals and materials to meet) is the standard test used for this
purpose. In the test, the fuel being measured is compared to fuels of known cetane values, and ignited
at various compression ratios. Most diesel fuel in the US has a cetane number ranging from 40-50.
Most modern diesel engines are designed for cetane numbers of at least 45. Diesel Fuel has to meet the
specification ASTM D 975, while BioDiesel meets ASTM D 6751. Read more about cetane Here
109
Differences between various Vegetable oils
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Looking at the properties of the various BioDiesel methyl esters demonstrates that the cold
weather properties of BioDiesel in particular, do vary considerably depending on what oil it is made
from. If you look at a breakdown list of a few different vegetable oils, and the levels of the various
fatty acids they contain you can se that the thermal properties of these various fatty acids differ
greatly. The fatty acid profiles of the various vegetable oils and are generalities, as various plants (and
animal fats, such as the tallow included) do have variability among them, depending on growing
conditions and other factors. However unless you intend on making your BioDiesel from new oil, the
most common waste oil you will find in the USA will be Waste Soy Bean Oil & you really will need
not worry too much about the thermal properties of the other oils. As a side note, a field in BioDiesel
research focuses on breeding varieties of various plants for ideal fatty acid profiles. Perhaps in the
future we will have an oil grown specifically for use as fuel, until then however we must make due
with what is available. No vegetable oil is composed of just one type of fat, be aware that all vegetable
oils are composed of various fats, the distribution of these fats vary between the different sources of
vegetable oils. For our purposes, some of the individual fats perform better in colder temperatures than
others. This is the reason that you will find that an entire batch of BioDiesel will not all gel or turn
solid at once & seems to stratify. Liquid BioDiesel may be on top while gelled BioDiesel may very
well lay on the bottom of the container in cold temperatures.
Fuel properties of some BioDiesel Methyl Esters

Cetane HG Viscosity Cloud Point Pour Point Flash Point
Ester Type
Number (kJ/kg) (mm2/s) (deg F) (deg F) (deg F)
Cottonseed 51.2 - 6.8 @ 69.8 F - 24.8 230
Rapeseed
54.4 40449 6.7 @ 104.0 F 28.4 15.8 183.2
or Canola
Safflower 49.8 40060 - - 21.2 356
Soybean 46.2 39800 4.08 @ 104.0 F 35.6 30.2 339.8
Sunflower 46.6 39800 4.22 @ 104.0 F 32.0 24.8 345.2
Tallow 72.7 39949 4.11 @ 104.0 F 53.6 48.2 204.8
#2 Diesel 47 45373 2.7 @ 100.4 F 15.0 33.0 138 170
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Differences between various Alcohols
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Nothing is perfect & a trade off will always exists, for example anhydrous Methanol is cheap
while Isopropanol and Anhydrous Ethanol are expensive by comparison, a point to note is that the type
of alcohol used can play an important role in the thermal properties of your BioDiesel. The methyl
esters (made using Methanol) which have the lower (and therefore preferable) melting points
unfortunately have lower (and therefore less preferable) Cetane numbers. Modern diesel vehicle
engines generally require a Cetane number of at least 40, preferably 45 to 50. While you might think
that the ideal BioDiesel would be composed entirely of methyl linoleneate, due to the extremely low
melting/freezing point (-70 F), you should notice that the Cetane number of methyl linoleneate is far
too low at 20.6 for a fuel composed entirely of it to be acceptable in a modern day vehicle engine.
The alcohol plays a big role in the melting point of BioDiesel made with most any given
vegetable oil. This means ethanol would be a preferred alcohol to use for cold weather operation of the
BioDiesel. Unfortunately 99% or better pure Ethanol is very costly & hard to come by, not to mention
much harder to control the Transesterification process. Ethanol has only minor impacts on the cetane
number, lubricity, and viscosity of the fuel. When using Methanol, the ratio of the reactants can be off
slightly, and the reaction will still proceed successfully. Transesterification with ethanol is usually far
less forgiving. The main reason methanol is the prime alcohol used in the home BioDiesel making
industry, however, is the cheaper cost of methanol while anhydrous ethanol & isopropanol are both
expensive & very hard to come by.
Another point of interest is that other alcohols produce BioDiesel molecules with different
melting points. For example, isopropyl stearate has a melting point of 28 C, compared to 39.1 C for
methyl palmitate
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Freezing , Gelling & Protection
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Most liquid fuels consist of a number of different molecules, with different properties. As a
result, the entire fuel does not have one single freezing point. Looking at a typical profile of a few
different vegetable oils as well as an animal fat (beef tallow), it can be seen that most potential
BioDiesel feedstock oils consist of a variety of fatty acids, anywhere from a few, up to nine or more.
As a result, the properties of the BioDiesel will depend on the makeup of the fatty acid profile, as well
as the particular alcohol used in processing (for example, ethyl esters have lower melting points than
methyl esters of the same oil
There are a few different (important) properties for cold weather performance of any fuel.
These include the Cloud Point (CP), Cold Filter Plugging Point (CFPP), and Pour Point
(PP), also referred to as Gel Point (GP).
CP or Cloud Point is the temperature at which some of the molecules in the fuel first begin to
freeze, resulting in the appearance of crystals in the fuel, which give it a cloudy appearance initially.
Since the Cloud Point is the temperature at which the highest freezing point molecules in the fuel
begin to freeze, a casual analysis would leave you to believe that the CP is simply the freezing point of
that BioDiesel molecule (methyl ester, ethyl ester, etc.) in the fuel that has the highest freezing point.
But, that is not the case. The molecules in the fuel with lower freezing points have an anti-freezing
effect on the molecules with higher freezing points. In soybean oil, ignoring the behenic acid and
erucic acid, which are present in only very small percentages, the fatty acid whose methyl ester has the
highest freezing point is stearic acid, which constitutes 3.6% of soybean oil. The next highest is
palmitic acid, constituting 9.9%. The freezing points of methyl stearate and methyl palmitate,
respectively, are 39.1 C and 30.5 C (102.4 F and 86.9 F). So, at first glance, we may expect that the
Cloud Point for soy BioDiesel (methyl soyate) would be 39.1 C, the freezing point for methyl
stearate. But, we see that the CP is actually 3 C, considerably lower. The reason for this is the
freezing point depressing effect of the other molecules in the fuel, which have considerably lower
freezing points.
GP or Gel Point or PP or Pour Point with liquids consisting of molecules of various freezing
points, gelling occurs as a result of solid molecules entangling and cross linking, to form a semi-rigid
structure, even though the majority of the molecules may still be liquid. A gel, also referred to as a sol,
would of course present a serious problem to a vehicles fuel system. Regular petroleum diesel can gel
at anywhere from 20 C (-4 F) to -10 C (14 F), depending on the quality of the fuel. Since
atmospheric temperatures can easily fall below that, the diesel fuel industry has developed techniques
for winterizing the fuel, to prevent this gelling from happening. The temperature at which this
gelling occurs is referred to as either the Gel Point (GP), or more commonly, the Pour Point (PP).
With diesel fuel, in some cases the gelling issue is dealt with by blending in other liquids with lower
freezing points, such as kerosene. This also has a freezing point depressing effect on the molecules in
the diesel fuel, so it also lowers the cloud point. Another method of diesel fuel winterizing involves the
addition of an antigel additive. These additives are generally added in very small quantities (0.1-
0.2% by volume), but can significantly lower the PP. They do so, primarily, by bonding to frozen
molecules when the fuel falls below the cloud point, and preventing those molecules from
112
bonding/cross linking with other frozen molecules. The molecules of an antigel additive are generally
considerably smaller than the fuel molecules themselves, so 0.1% of the additive by volume can
effectively block a much larger percentage of fuel molecules from having the ability to gel the fuel.
Some additives can lower the PP of diesel fuel by 30C (48 F) or more.
Clouding or Gel Point correction

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If you plan to use BioDiesel in a cold climate, try these techniques which are used by some
commercial BioDiesel manufacturers to obtain a lower cloud point.
BioDiesel Protection Traditional methods of winterization can also be used with BioDiesel. Many but
not all of the same antigel additives that are effective with petroleum diesel are also effective with
BioDiesel. An issue of critical importance, however, is that most BioDiesel fuels have a greater
percentage of the highest freezing point molecules than most petroleum diesel, so while 0.1% by
volume of the additive may be enough to bond to all of those high-freeze point molecules in petroleum
diesel, they very likely may not be enough for BioDiesel. As a result, using the same amount may have
no effect on the gel point. But, using a greater percentage, based on the percentage of high freeze point
molecules in the BioDiesel, a significant antigelling effect can be achieved. Most methyl soyate
BioDiesel has a gel/pour point slightly below 0C (-3C. But, in tests, use of antigel additives in the
appropriately higher percentage required successfully lowered the PP of soy BioDiesel to below -23C.
113
Advanced Winter Protection Lowering CFPP
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Cold Filter Plugging Point is a problem with BioDiesel in the winter. One way to do help with this
problem is to use the Cold Fractioning technique.
A brand new technique has recently come to light that can dramatically alter the CFPP of finished
BioDiesel without additives. For lack of a better name we will call this technique Tallow Reduction.
Winterizing BioDiesel by Cold Fractioning

Cold Fractioning is where you "refrigerate" the straight B100 BioDiesel which means to leaving it
outside on a 32F degree night and then siphoning out the liquid portion and leaving the
solid/crystallized portion for summer time use, just keep the hose out of the sludge on the bottom. The
solid/crystallized portion gets put into a container for use when temperatures outside are suitable to
keep it liquid such during the nice warm summer. Since air exposure can cause oxidation of BioDiesel
over time & for long term storage such as this, try to keep air out of the container you are using to
store this summer fuel in. You could for example start by using a small drum & once you had one or
two of these filled up, you could pour them both into a bigger drum filling it up for the extended
storage time.
How to Winterize BioDiesel by Tallow Reduction

BioDiesel problems with gelling in the winter, one slick trick to reduce this problem is to remove as
much of the tallows as possible before making your BioDiesel, here is how it is done.
Recycling waste glycerol to remove tallow from WVO

In a nutshell, this method adds the Prewash waste byproduct from making BioDiesel to the WVO & is
gently mixed & allowed to settle 72 hours or longer for the tallows to separate to the bottom.
This method recycles the waste glycerol Prewash following Prewashing of your BioDiesel.
Prewashing makes the resulting BioDiesel much easier to wash, because a lot of the soap seems to
bond to the glycerol/water mix during settling. The resulting BioDiesel yield will be better after
washing, probably because less BioDiesel will be lost to soap emulsions & going out with the waste
water. Recycling the waste glycerol / water prewash mixture can reduce or eliminate tallow from
WVO.
This tallow reduction method was developed using the waste glycerol from BioDiesel that was made
with 20% to 25% methanol, it is unknown if the residual methanol plays a role in the reduction of the
tallows or not. However since we know it works with the methanol intact, why mess with a good
thing unless you are dead set on methanol recovery, in which case experiment & see what you can get
away with.
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Step by Step Tallow Reduction Procedure
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1. As normal, make your prewash by adding 5% vol/vol water to the expected glycerol volume to
the BioDiesel processor after the transesterification reaction time, with the pump still running
but mixing gently for around 15 minutes, then allow the glyc/water prewash mix to settle out,
save this glycerol prewash mixture to treat your nasty WVO with in the following steps.
2. Using any open vessel such as a 55 gallon drum, (the lidless type works well) for treating your
WVO, the air exposure will help the good oil to clear due to water & methanol being allowed
to evaporate. Cover it with a cheese cloth to keep out bugs & debris.
3. Nearly fill your treatment tank with WVO, while trying to minimize the water and crud when
filling, the oil need not be bone dry for this WVO tallow reduction treatment to work.
4. Use the waste glycerol / water Prewash mixture which still contains both methanol & water.
Add around 10-15 % Vol/Vol of this Prewash mixture to your WVO & give a good stir.
5. If your WVO is goopy, it may be better to just warm it to the point its turns barely runny before
treating, leave it to cool as soon as you finish mixing BUT do not go any warmer than is
needed to just liquefy the oil. Heating the oil up to 40 degrees C, and this method is not as
successful for some reason, perhaps the tallows need to remain in a hard or thick state for it to
work (unknown).
6. Leave to stand for around 72 hours undisturbed, The Glycerin will settle out in the Tallow
layer.
7. Using a siphon or pump, draw off the now cleaned treated WVO from the top surface down.
The white/tallow-glycerol mix tends to stay put in the bottom provided you are careful and do
not use a pump that has too strong a suction, Use a clear plastic hose to see that its the clean
WVO you are drawing off & not some of the tallow.
8. The cleaned WVO may be a little cloudy but will soon clarify as you heat and dry it.
9. Titrate & Transesterify the cleaned WVO and wash the resultant BioDiesel with cold water as
normal, this BioDiesel should have a much lower gel point/CFPP than it would have if you had
used the oil without tallow reduction pre-treating.
10. Now all you need to do is figure out how to clean all the nasty goop out of the bottom of that
Settling tank or Stand pipe drum that you used. The waste tallow will burn & can be used as
fuel.
Reportedly confirmed by an Independent Testing Laboratory that the resulting BioDiesel CFPP after
using this Tallow reduction process that were originally made of clear liquid oils at room temp, such
as Canola/Rape/Corn & were contaminated by animal fats from chicken, sausages, meats, and other
tallow types from cooking, easily gave a BioDiesel with a Minus 10 Deg C CFPP, BEFORE any
additives were used. Now that is impressive!
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Notes:
a) If done properly, when using 5 gal of glyc prewash mix in 35 gal of nasty WVO you should get
around 30 gallons of real nice oil and 5 gallons of muddy looking glycerol and 5 gallons of the
nasty thick goop.
b) If you are using WVO/SVO directly as fuel, Leave it rest a few days longer in the open vessel
as this will help the oils clarify and become completely clear of any moisture/methanol from
the glycerin, before your usual filtration. You should find your filters might not need as much
cleaning as with untreated WVO.
c) For recovery later, you may be able to draw off some of the clean WVO oil as it rises from the
nasty mess, but a 5 gal jug of trashed nasty oil is a small price to pay it if it lowers the
cloud/jell point of your finished BD and makes better winter fuel.
d) The Prewash waste (provided it contains both methanol & water) does not seem to solidify and
remains liquid for a week or two at ambient temperatures, any longer and will turn to jelly.
You can stir it up and it will become fairly fluid again but it really should be used while still
fresh right after settlement. Caution: Once methanol is removed or allowed to evaporate this
stuff generally turns solid within 24 hours.
Tallow Reduction Terminology Definitions

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BD - BioDiesel
CFPP Cold Filter Plug Point
Prewash mixture Waste glycerol / water mixture with methanol from prewashing BD.
Settlement The action & time allowed for settling to occur.
Tallow Animal fats that turn hard at ambient temperatures cause gelling of BioDiesel fuel.
Transesterification The process of making BioDiesel with WVO, Methanol & Hydroxide.
WVO Waste Vegetable Oil that need not be bone dry, just not sopping wet though.
% Vol/Vol A percentage of volume added to another volume of material.
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Approximate BioDiesel Yield from Waste Vegetable Oil
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While variations in WVO FFAs will play a role in conversion yield, normally you will find
that by volume, 40 gallons (151 Liters) of WVO should roughly yield 40 gallons of BioDiesel &
generate approximately 9.5 gallons of Raw Glycerol by product. Of this raw by product, about 1 1/2
gallons of Methanol Alcohol could be extracted if desired. The remainder of the Raw Glycerin by
product could be used to make a bar style hand soap for use in your shop, to make liquid hand soap for
your shop, to kill weeds in the lawn, to fertilize the lawn, to make Presto Type fireplace logs, or to
heat your home by burning it in a modified Babington Burner & using Hydronic Heating to carry the
heat into your home. The type of Hydroxide you used determines whether you make a hard bar soap or
liquid soap as well as if it would make a week killer or fertilizer for the lawn. If you desire to extract
or salvage the excess Methanol contained in your waste Glycerol you will need to build a Methanol
recovery distillation apparatus which is beyond the scope of this basic BioDiesel guide book.
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Residual Catalyst and Soap testing procedure
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Note: This is a modified version of the AOCS method
Weigh out 0.5g Glycerol, 5g unwashed BioDiesel, or 100g washed BioDiesel
The procedure:
1. Dissolve sample in 100 mL Isopropyl alcohol and 2mL of 1% phenolphthalein indicator

(in isopropyl)
2. Titrate with 0.01 Normal solution of HCl until you get the phenolphthalein color change (red to
clear).
3. This is done to blank the solution., designate this as "A".
4. Add 1mLof 0.4% bromophenol blue indicator (in water).
5. Titrate with 0.01 Normal solution of HCl until the color changes from blue to yellow. This
indicates that the pH is low enough that all of the soap should be split into FFA and salt, designate
this as "B".
Here are the equations
(A x (conc. of HCl) x (MW of catalyst))/(1000 x (weight of sample)) = grams of catalyst/gram of

sample
(B) x (conc. of HCl) x (MW of soap))/(1000 x (weight of sample)) = grams of soap/gram of sample
The MW of NaOH = 40.0, KOH = 56.1, NaOCH3 = 54.0

MW of sodium oleate = 304.4, potassium oleate = 320.56
To express your results to ppm (part per million), multiply by 1,000,000 (one million).
When the level of catalyst and soap are small, it is a good idea to use blank samples. Just prepare a
second sample without glycerin, BD unwashed, or BD washed. Titrate the blank at the same time as
the sample and subtract the quantities for the blank from the numbers from the sample
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What Dont Work for Making BioDiesel
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WATER is a BAD thing for BioDiesel production. Everything must be bone dry! Do NOT use
Ethanol (Ethyl Alcohol) unless it is of Laboratory grade Anhydrous 99.8% or better.
Note: Denatured Alcohol or normal Ethanol contain at least 5% to 10% water & are only 90 to 95%
pure. The water will cause SOAP to form instead of the BioDiesel Ester. Just remember Grannys Lye
Soap used Fat (Oil) & water & Lye + Heat & stirring. So unless you want SOAP, do not allow water
into your BioDiesel process!
Clumpy or Old Sodium Hydroxide: Sodium Hydroxide that has been exposed to the air for a length
of time absorbs CO2 & Water from the air (rapidly). This causes the Sodium Hydroxide to loose
potency & turn clumpy. Once this happens, it is useless for making BioDiesel. The Sodium Hydroxide
has been turned into Sodium Carbonate which is not suitable for making BioDiesel.
Really badly burnt or rancid WVO: Contains a lot of FFAs, This may make BioDiesel but it also
will make a lot of soap & would be a real pain to wash. Likely not worth the effort to use it.
Anything reactive with Caustic Soda: Reactive metals such as Aluminum should never come into
contact with strong bases such as Sodium Hydroxide. A violent reaction can occur, this can also cause
a fire as it gets very hot. If any material is in doubt, do not use it until you verify that it is compatible!
Motor Oil: Petroleum Based oils will not convert or Transesterify into BioDiesel so do not try.
Other ways of making BioDiesel: You may see various claims on how to make a Diesel Fuel
substitute using old motor oil or some snake oil miracle solvent. We do not condone such an action &
never will. In our opinion, since diesel engines were designed to operate on a lubricating oil (#2 Diesel
Oil) we believe the use of solvents (used to thin down the motor oil) & the grit such as hard carbon
contained within used motor oil would shorten the engines inherently long life of your diesel engine.
119
BioDiesel Trouble Shooting
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Paint Flaking or Curling in my BioDiesel Processor Raw BioDiesel with the methanol still in it has
the effect of killing or stripping the plasticizers from the original paint that was in your 55
gallon steel drum. You may find that after processing a while or after rinsing out your steel
drum processor that the paint inside of it will begin to peel, flake or curl off as the tank
dries. This is normal, simply wait until it dries after rinsing & then remove any loose paint
by hand. Removal of the loose paint poses no problem to the processor. You do not want to
leave flaked or peeled paint in the processor though because it can break up & clog up the
shower head or other plumbing so remove it as soon as you notice it. Provided you always
keep the process tank covered when not in use (a good practice), the left over WVO &
BioDiesel inside the tank prevents rust from forming.
Too much lye - soapy residue. FIX Titrate & use the appropriate amount of Hydroxide in the first place.
Not enough lye - unreacted oil, free glycerin. FIX Titrate & use appropriate amount of Hydroxide.
Not enough alcohol - Reaction does not complete leaves excess raw oils, FIX - Use minimum of 20% &
preferably 25% alcohol to insure reaction completion.
Too much alcohol Waste of money, FIX use between 20% to 25% of alcohol by volume of WVO.
Water in oil - Results in catalyst being broken apart, and the sodium ion from the catalyst joining with the
fatty acids to make soap. FIX Dry your WVO before starting Transesterification.
Milky Color Indication of the presence of Soap or Water. FIX Try rewashing it, and Drying again.
Soap Formation Can be caused by too much moisture in your WVO or methanol. It can also be caused
by excess Hydroxide use so double check your titration.
Brown goop in bottom of BioDiesel This is Glycerol precipitation, FIX - Drain it off, rewash.
Cloudy Smokey formation in the bottom of the BioDiesel Unreacted glycerides forming Gel, rewash
or use at temperature where it goes away.
Dark BioDiesel Color is not a good indicator of quality. Some WVO will produce dark BioDiesel that
will run just fine.
WVO smells like Vinegar This can be caused by sugar water being present in your WVO. Usually this
is also indicated by presence of fruit flies. The sugar water ferments into alcohol which
turns into vinegar over time. Either find another WVO source, or deal with the use of extra
Lye to neutralize the excess acid from the vinegar. We suggest locating another WVO
source.
Sugar in WVO Find another source of WVO or deal with washing & drying your WVO to remove the
sugar. Sugar is not something you want to have in fuel for an engine as it can cause serious
engine trouble up to & including seizing of the engine. At the very least it can cause your
piston rings to stick.
Fruit Flys Everywhere Sugar in the oil.
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Emulsion Identification, two types of Emulsification can occur:
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1. Partially Emulsified Middle Layer - An emulsified middle layer located between the
BioDiesel and the water. This is common & only a small problem. The wash has formed an
emulsion layer located between the water and the BioDiesel, you will see it once you drain off
the first wash water. Normally the first wash water should look like slightly thinned down
milk, it looks an opaque white color of normal water viscosity. If you find some emulsion the
water will become more creamy looking with a slight yellow color which can change to a
thicker cream like viscosity. The emulsion layer viscosity can become more like a warm runny
milkshake rather than like the wash water, it can look like creamy coffee or mayonnaise.
2. Full Blown Emulsion - All the way through an entire container of washing fuel and water.
If your BioDiesel looks a creamy or opaque color, perhaps with a thicker than normal viscosity
similar to a warm milkshake instead of diesel fuel viscosity- then you are the owner of a full
blown emulsion that goes all the way through your container instead of nice golden brown
BioDiesel.
Wash problems because of Monoglicerides and Diglycerides - The presence of Monoglicerides and
Diglycerides, are the result of an incomplete reaction in a batch of BioDiesel. Monoglycerides and
Diglycerides will emulsify oil and water & are soluble in BioDiesel so they do not wash out.
Monoglicerides and Diglycerides are common emulsifier ingredients in junk foods. Monoglicerides
and Diglycerides can cause fuel filter & injector clogging and can corrode some metals when burned.
When making fuel, it's usually not hard to correct for the appearance of Monoglicerides and
Diglycerides, simply use the right amount of lye, a slightly higher temperature such as 130 F during
the reaction, sufficient agitation & time (when in doubt process longer), use sufficient methanol (25%
by volume). Different oils need different amounts of the above to produce quality BioDiesel. Going
sparingly on any of the above factors, or inaccuracy in measurements, are the first things you should
look for if you suspect poor BioDiesel conversion.
Home testing for Monoglicerides and Diglycerides - A simple test for Monoglicerides and
Diglycerides is to re-process a liter of your BioDiesel, and to see if anymore glycerin drops out.
1. Take a liter of BioDiesel (prior to washing, or after washing). No water can be present that can
disrupt the testing process and yield soap.
2. Re-process the liter of BioDiesel as though it were new oil instead of BioDiesel. Use 3.5 g lye, 200
ml of methanol just like in the 1 Liter BioDiesel test batch method & see if more glycerin drops
out. Glycerin indicates that some Monoglicerides and Diglycerides are present and converting to
glycerin during the test. Be aware some of the glycerin dropping out will be diluted with the
methanol giving the appearance of a larger volume. ASTM standard BioDiesel fuel shouldnt drop
any glycerin at all.
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Fixing Emulsions
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Middle layer variety Emulsification- is common, the chances are that given time, just letting it
sit long enough and it will break on it's own. However if you want to speed things along, drain the
wash water until you hit the emulsion layer (creamy looking layer). Capture that emulsion into another
container. Continue to wash the remainder of the BioDiesel normally. Separating that emulsion from
the rest of the BioDiesel allowed you continue to wash the majority of the BioDiesel in your wash
tank, while the emulsion could begin to separate. If it does not separate in about 6 hours to 14 days,
you should proceed to experiment with breaking the emulsion by using either salt, heat, or acid. Since
the emulsion was separated from the remainder of the BioDiesel you will not jeopardize the quality of
the rest of your washed batch by experimenting with the salt or acid emulsion busting techniques. Not
separating the emulsion layer from the good BioDiesel and continuing to just try and wash out the
emulsion does not seem to work nearly as well as removing the emulsion from the good BioDiesel
since you'd have to wash the whole batch longer if you continued to recirculate the emulsified matter
while washing.
Middle Layer Fix: What to do with that liquid emulsion Store it in an Aggregate tank: If you have
the space and make a lot of fuel, use an emulsion aggregate tank to collect any of the middle-layer
emulsion you drain out of the washes. Use a small 15 to 30 gallon aggregate collection drum with a
drain at the bottom for someone washing 55gallon batches. Most emulsions release a lot of water when
they break so remember to drain out the released water periodically. Eventually the aggregate tank will
build up enough Free BioDiesel that you can pump into a wash tank and do a careful wash on it.
Another option is just put the emulsion into 5 gallon pails or into restaurant oil cubes then let it sit and
pump or siphon off the BioDiesel or the water underneath when it releases in a day or so.
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Full Blown Severe Emulsion Fix
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If the whole batch of fuel your washing turned light yellow and emulsified, you have a number of
choices to consider. Time, Heat, Salt, Acid in the order of preference.
1. Time - Turn off the air bubbler and let this whole batch just sit. It could break in a day or three. The
main Drawback here is time, and tying up your wash tank, which will prevent you from doing
anything else with it, of course you could always pump it into a temporary storage drum to free up
your wash tank. On the positive side you use less energy breaking the emulsion & do not risk
contamination of the BioDiesel with a foreign substance if you simply let break on its own.
Drawbacks: Time & tying up your equipment while waiting.
2. Heat - Heating an emulsion can break it, but can be dangerous if you approach the boiling point of
water since the weight of the unbroken emulsion layer above the water layer can hold down the water
vapor which can create a nasty steam & water geyser that can burn you badly. If the temperature is
kept well below the boiling point of water at your altitude, this can be done safely.
Drawbacks: Energy consumption.
3. Salt - Using salt will break an emulsion because water and salt molecules have more affinity for each
other than water and soap does, this causes the water portion of the emulsion to release the soap and
bond to the salt instead. When soap no longer bonds to the water, the BioDiesel gets released & the
water drops out to the bottom of the container.
If using salt, you will need to use more wash water changes than normal to get clean finished
BioDiesel with clear wash water and neutral pH since salt simply prevents subsequent washes from
being as effective as normal. Normal the wash water is a translucent watery milky color caused by
soap, when you salt out an emulsion you will get wash water with a lot less white than normal.
Drawbacks: Salt is not environmentally friendly & can be a problem to dispose since it will kill plants
for a very long time so don't pour it over your garden! Salt can damage metals due to corrosion of
course so make sure that all the salt is washed out completely! Over washing is preferred.
4. Acid - This is a older not much used wash method any longer since it can compromise the quality of
the BioDiesel but it has been reported to break an emulsion. Either acid vinegar or citric acid can be
used, it doesn't matter very much which one. However be aware that it can compromise the quality of
your finished BioDiesel so use it as a last resort experiment.
Acidifying an emulsion works by breaking the soaps into their basic parts, this forms a salt and
a free fatty acid. Drawbacks: FFA content is a concern for BioDiesel & the FFAs will end up
in your BioDiesel and be indistinguishable from it. FFAs can promote corrosion of metals, so
raising the acidic level doesn't seem to be a good thing to do. You may experience a harder
time washing BioDiesel that has been acidified. It could take many washes to get clear water &
neutral pH BioDiesel. Some people suggest breaking a really stubborn emulsion with acid first,
then drying the BioDiesel, then reprocessing the BioDiesel to remove any FFAs & then
rewashing. The acid method should be considered a last resort experimental method to use only
on a really stubborn emulsion.
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Safety concerns
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General Chemical Handling Safety
1. Do not wear a wrist watch! (Caustic Soda can lodge in the band & continue to burn you.)
2. Methoxide is nasty, it permanently kills the nerves & chemically burns you.
3. Have tap water at hand to rinse with in the case of a splash or spill.
4. Have a Neutralizer on hand such as Vinegar to help neutralize strong base chemicals in case of
splashed onto skin.
5. Have an appropriate fire extinguisher on hand.
6. Wear chemical resistant gloves & fold a cuff into them to catch any run off before it travels up
your arm (should you raise your hands). Some Methanol resistant Gloves: Butyl, Viton, Ansell
Edmont 4-H
7. Wear a full face shield to protect your eyes & face against splashes.
8. Ideally wear a plastic or rubber chemical apron with sleeves.
9. Rubber Boots to protect feet from spills of caustic solutions.
10. If an apron is not worn, at least wear long sleeves.
11. Use adequate ventilation & preferably use a totally enclosed system or mix outside in a mostly
enclosed mix tank.
12. Remember you are using Methanol, be constantly aware of sources of ignition & do not allow
vapors to collect & concentrate so use plenty of ventilation.
13. Methanol vapors cannot be blocked for very long with a common organic cartridge respirator the
fumes will only be blocked for an hour & then the cartridge is worthless. The fumes should cause
you concern as they are toxic. Normally, the vapors should not be cause for alarm provided you
have good ventilation or are working outside with a fan. A big fan helps to dissipate the fumes.
However if you are working in an industrial type of environment where you may be exposed to
Methanol vapors for extended times, an air supply face mask is recommended.
14. Look up the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for Methanol & for Sodium Hydroxide or
Potassium Hydroxide on the Internet and read them.
Always mix the Hydroxide into the Alcohol, not the other way around!
124
Chemicals required to make BioDiesel
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Vegetable Oil, the kind used is of minor concern but ideally should be clean, kindly used, readily
available & liquid at room temperature. Either used restaurant deep fryer oil or new vegetable oil may
be used.
Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda cheaper & easier to come by) or Potassium Hydroxide (more
expensive to use)
Methanol Alcohol Pure Anhydrous 99.8%
A PH indicator solution such as but not limited to Phenolphthalein
Health Hazards & Personal Safety

B100 or pure BioDiesel has been tested & shown to be non toxic in animal studies.
BioDiesel fuel is environmentally friendly & will biodegrade if spilled.
BioDiesel is as safe if not safer in storage & handling as its counterpart fossil diesel fuel.
The Chemicals used in making BioDiesel can be dangerous if not properly handled.
1. BioDiesel is considered Non-Toxic & safe for the environment: However just because it is
considered non-toxic dont mean it would be good for you so dont drink it! BioDiesel spills in the
environment will break down rapidly. The EPA considers BioDiesel a very low risk material. See the
BioDiesel example MSDS sheet later in this book for hazards listed with BioDiesel.
2. Chemicals: The Chemicals used in making BioDiesel are inherently hazardous and appropriate safety
precautions should always be your top priority when handling them! The making of BioDiesel should
be supervised by a responsible adult at all times. Please do not use these chemicals or make BioDiesel
if you are intoxicated, or mentally impaired as very serious consequences such as severe chemical
burns, blindness, disability, or even death can result from improper handling of the chemicals.
3. Heating: Making BioDiesel requires the use of heating elements. Fire & personal burns are an ever
present risk so use due caution at all times.
4. WVO: Waste Vegetable Oil. Used oil salvaged from local restaurants is not considered a hazardous
waste by the EPA. Here is an excerpt taken off the EPA web site Origin the first criterion for identifying
used oil is based on the origin of the oil. Used oil must have been refined from crude oil or made from synthetic materials.
Animal and vegetable oils are excluded from EPA's definition of used oil. Source of information
http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/usedoil/usedoil.htm State laws may differ but generally
follow federal guidelines, if in doubt check your state laws.
5. Methanol: (Wood Alcohol) A neuro-toxin if ingested, inhaled or absorbed through the skin. A highly
flammable liquid, it burns with a clear flame so you could be on fire & no one would see anything!.
May cause skin irritation. May cause central nervous system depression. May be absorbed through the
skin. May cause kidney damage. May cause respiratory and digestive tract irritation. May be fatal or
cause blindness if swallowed or absorbed through the skin. May cause fetal effects. Causes severe eye
irritation and possible injury. Target Organs: Kidneys, central nervous system, eyes. Use of a safety
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face shield, appropriate ventilation, Chemical gloves, rubber boots are suggested along with use of a
rubber or plastic apron to avoid splashes.
1. Eye: Produces irritation, characterized by a burning sensation, redness, tearing,
inflammation, and possible corneal injury. Vapors may cause eye irritation. May cause
painful sensitization to light.
2. Skin: May cause skin irritation.
3. Inhalation: May cause respiratory tract irritation. May cause visual impairment and
possible permanent blindness. May cause effects similar to those
described for ingestion.
4. Chronic: Prolonged or repeated skin contact may cause dermatitis. Chronic inhalation and
ingestion may cause effects similar to those of acute
inhalation and ingestion.
5. Toxicity: Most of methanols toxicity results from hepatic conversion to its toxic
metabolites, formaldehyde and formate.
6. Antidotes. Ethanol (drinking alcohol) is a specific antidote for methanol poisoning and acts
by competitively inhibiting alcohol dehydrogenase. If methanol poisoning is suspected, we
do not suggest you treat yourself, seek professional medical help ASAP!
7. Sodium Hydroxide: A very strong caustic PH Base which will severely burn your skin. Do not wear
jewelry when handling as it can lodge under watchbands or rings. The chemical burn depending on
moisture can take a little while before you feel anything. If gotten on the skin, brush it off & rinse very
thoroughly with a lot of water, vinegar will neutralize it if gotten on the skin . Seek medical attention if
gotten in the eyes or if a large area of the skin got burned. When making the Methoxide by using
Sodium Hydroxide you will have to mix longer since it does not want to dissolve in methanol & may
result in a hard glycerol by product. Caution: Always mix your Hydroxide into the Alcohol, not the
other way around!
8. Potassium Hydroxide: A strong caustic Base will severely burn your skin. Normally the chemical
burn takes a little while before you feel anything depending on moisture. If gotten on the skin, brush it
off, use vinegar to neutralize it & rinse very thoroughly with a lot of water. Seek medical attention if
gotten in the eyes or if a large area of the skin got burned. Using Potassium Hydroxide will require
using about half again as much as you would need when using Sodium Hydroxide. It is more
expensive than Sodium Hydroxide, however the Glycerin by product will remain liquid & can be used
as a fertilizer. Caution: Always mix your Hydroxide into the Alcohol, not the other way around!
9. Methoxide: A caustic compound created by the mixing of Methanol & Sodium Hydroxide. This is a
nasty solution which can cause chemical burns that you cannot even feel occurring because it quickly
& permanently kills the nerve cells in the skin. If splashed with this chemical compound immediately,
rinse completely with water! Have plenty of water and vinegar (to neutralize the base) on hand.
Strongly suggested to use Hand protection such as solvent resistant Chemical Gloves such as neoprene
or Nitril. Full Face Shield for face & eye protection. Rubber Boots & Rubber Apron seriously
suggested. Keep a charged water hose nearby in case of accident.
10. Phenolphthalein: Uses are PH Indicator, veterinary cathartic, laxative. Relatively safe provided you
do not ingest large quantities since concerns about a theoretical risk that this material may be
carcinogenic in humans if ingested at high levels over a long period.
126
Lab Equipment & Specifications
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Digital Scales Here you must make a choice, just like every thing else in life a trade off exists that you
need to be aware of regarding scales, accuracy, capacity & price. Very accurate scales are relatively
expensive & get more so as accuracy goes up, the same can be said of capacity and doubly so for highly
accurate high capacity scales. You can use either digital or analog scales, however with advances in
technology the digital scales are very good & normally cheaper than a quality analog scale with jeweled
knife edge pivot points. If purchasing a used analog scale you should verify that it repeats measurements,
this will verify that the jeweled knife edge pivots have not been badly chipped or broken. Cheaper analog
scales use hardened metal knife edge pivots but can also be damaged by misuse so check them out as well.
If you are going to make your own Titration solutions you will need a very sensitive digital scale which
measures down to .01 gram and a set of S1 standard weights however if you are going to purchase the
titration solutions or have them made by somebody else then you can get away with a cheaper scale so
long as it is accurate & will measure down to 1 gram, be sure to get a calibration weight for it to keep it
accurate verify it each time you use it. Either way you go your scale must not have too small a capacity
since you will be weighing your Hydroxide for processing. Depending on the volume of WVO your
processing & the titration value of that oil, the scales need to be able to weigh at least 500 grams at a time
& preferably upwards of 1000 grams or more at a time. You can of course weigh out two times or more to
get the required weight such as if you required 900 grams yet your scales only have a capacity of 500
grams you could weight out 450 grams of hydroxide twice to get the required amount. This is one solution
but you should be aware that hydroxide sucks up moisture out of the air at a very rapid rate so the weight
can change quickly and it is messy & corrosive to work with so besides being tedious to weight it out a
bunch of times this means that you do not want to have that hydroxide container open too long as you
weight it out.
OfficialBioDiesel.com now carries a nice inexpensive digital scale that seems immune to the caustic
chemicals being weighed. Check it out http://www.officialbiodiesel.com/products/digital_scale.htm
If price of a scale is a concern, check out Pawn Shops in your local area, just exercise caution & check
them out before you purchase them. It would be best to get a set of standard calibration weights for this.
Feel free to use others, here are some very nice scale suggestions at reasonable prices.
http://b100supply.com/ or http://balances.com/myweigh/
i201 200 gram capacity +/-0.01 gram accuracy for making titration solutions @ around $99
i500 500 gram capacity +/-0.1 gram accuracy for up to 30gal batches @ around $62
i1200 1200 gram capacity +/-0.1 gram accuracy for up to 60 gal batches @ around $105
i2600 2600 gram capacity +/-0.1 gram accuracy for up to 90 gallon batches @ around $150
i5000 5000 gram capacity +/-1.0 gram accuracy for up to 90 gallon batches @ around $90
3 BEAM BALANCE 2600 gram capacity +/-0.1 gram accuracy for up to 90 gallon batches @ around $87
Thermometer 1% to 2% Accurate with a long metal stem capable of measuring up to 200F. Dont
forget to check the calibration of your new thermometer! Ice water with plenty of crushed wet ice is 32
degrees F. Boiling water (rapid boil at sea level) is 212 degrees F. Always verify accuracy of any
thermometer.
127
Titration - Quick Reference
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Add 10mL isopropyl alcohol to container

Add 1mL of your oil & mix
Add 3 drops of indicator till Pink/Purple
Gently heat mixture if necessary
Add 0.1% alkali solution one drop at a time, keeping track of how much you add, and stop when you
get a color change that holds for at least 10 seconds while mixing.
Divide number of drops by the Syringe Calibration number to get Grams per Liter.
Add 5 grams/Liter for Sodium Hydroxide
Add 7 grams/Liter For Potassium Hydroxide
Multiply Total Grams per Liter x Number of Liters of WVO to be processed.
128
Handy pH Reference Chart
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Cabbage Indicator PH Color Chart
2 4 6 8 10 12
pH
Blue- Greenish
Color Red Purple Violet Blue Green Yellow
129
Approximate Fuel Properties of some Methyl Esters
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Fuel properties of some BioDiesel Methyl Esters

Cetane HG Viscosity Cloud Point Pour Point Flash Point
Ester Type
Number (kJ/kg) (mm2/s) (deg F) (deg F) (deg F)
Cottonseed 51.2 - 6.8 @ 69.8 F - 24.8 230
Rapeseed
54.4 40449 6.7 @ 104.0 F 28.4 15.8 183.2
Canola
Safflower 49.8 40060 - - 21.2 356
Soybean 46.2 39800 4.08 @ 104.0 F 35.6 30.2 339.8
Sunflower 46.6 39800 4.22 @ 104.0 F 32.0 24.8 345.2
Tallow 72.7 39949 4.11 @ 104.0 F 53.6 48.2 204.8
#2 Diesel Fuel 47 45373 2.7 @ 100.4 F 15.0 33.0 138 170
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Melting Points of some Raw Oils
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Raw Oils their melting point and Iodine Values

Oil Approx. melting point F Iodine Value
Coconut oil 77.0F 10
Palm kernel oil 75.2F 37
Mutton tallow 107.6F 40
Beef tallow 112F 50
Palm oil 95.0F 54
Olive oil 21.2F 81
Castor oil -0.40F 85
Peanut oil 37.4F 93
Rapeseed oil 14.0F 98
Cotton seed oil 30.2F 105
Sunflower oil 1.4F 125
Soybean oil 3.2F 130
Tung oil 29.3F 168
Linseed oil -11.2 178
Sardine oil . 185
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US Dept of Energy Fuel Comparison Chart
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http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/altfuel/fuel_comp.html
No. 2 Diesel Biodiesel (B20)
Chemical Structure C10 to C 20 Methyl esters of C16 to C 18 fatty acids
Cetane Number 40 to 55 46 to 60
Octane Number 8 to 15 ~25
Soy bean oil, waste cooking oil, animal
Main Fuel Source Crude Oil
fats, and rapeseed oil
117,000 - 120,000 Btu (compared to
Energy Content per Gallon 128,000 - 130,000 Btu
diesel #2)
Energy Ratio 1.1 to 1 or 90% (relative to diesel)
Any vehicle that runs on diesel today-

Types of Vehicles no modifications are needed for up to
Many types of vehicle classes.
Available today 5% blends. Many engines also
compatible with up to 20% blends
Produces harmful emissions;

Reduces particulate matter and global
however, diesel and diesel vehicles
Environmental Impacts warming gas emissions compared to
are rapidly improving and emissions
of Burning Fuel conventional diesel; however, NOx
are being reduced especially with
emissions may be increased.
after-treatment devices.
Biodiesel is domestically produced and

Energy Security Manufactured using imported oil, has a fossil energy ratio of 3.3 to 1,
Impacts which is not an energy secure option. which means that its fossil energy
inputs are similar to those of petroleum.
Available in bulk from an increasing

number of suppliers. There are 22 states
Fuel Availability Available at select fueling stations.
that have some biodiesel stations
available to the public.
Hoses and seals may be affected with
higher-percent blends, lubricity is
Maintenance Issues
improved over that of conventional
diesel fuel.
Safety Issues (Without Diesel is a relatively safe fuel since Less toxic and more biodegradable than
exception, all alternative fuel people have learned to use it safely. conventional fuel, can be transported,
vehicles must meet today's Diesel is not biodegradable though, delivered, and stored using the same
OEM Safety Standards) so a spill could pollute soil and water. equipment as for diesel fuel.
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The Chemistry of BioDiesel Transesterification
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Transesterification is the process of exchanging the alkoxy group of an ester by another alcohol
most commonly Methanol. These reactions are commonly catalyzed by using a strong base such as
Sodium Hydroxide. Since used vegetable oil contains Free Fatty Acids, the Vegetable Oil must be
brought to a PH of 8.5 to successfully Transesterify the Oil into an Ester. Although Transesterification
can be achieved at room temperature the reaction will be very slow & may be incomplete. By heating
the oil to approximately 120 F combined with mechanically mixing the Methoxide & Vegetable Oil it
will Transesterify the oil in a shorter time resulting in most of the WVO converting into BioDiesel
Methyl Ester within about 1 hour. The by product Raw Glycerol & is commonly used in making soap.
Chemically, transesterification is the process of exchanging the alkyl group (from an alcohol)
of an ester with another alkyl, from a different alcohol. In BioDiesel transesterification, a vegetable oil
ester is combined with a simple alcohol and a catalyst, resulting in the breakup of the triglyceride ester
(three fatty acids connected to a single glycerol (alcohol)), and the joining of the fatty acids with the
added simple alcohols. The glycerin alkyls are replaced with the alkyl of the added alcohol (i.e. methyl
for methanol, ethyl for ethanol, etc.). The separated glycerol is the waste product. This reaction is
shown below:
CH2OOR1 catalyst CH2OH

| |
CHOOR2 + 3CH3OH 3CH3OORx + CHOH
| |
CH2OOR3 CH2OH
Vegetable oil 3 Methanols BioDiesel Glycerin
Figure 3 Transesterification
Rx is used since the BioDiesel produced will consist of different types of mono-alkyl esters,
because of the various fatty acids (R1, R2, R3) in the vegetable oil. The reaction can proceed both
ways, so it is generally necessary to add an excess of methanol to force the reaction to the right. To
comply with the ASTM standard, it is not generally desirable to have free methanol in the BioDiesel
fuel so it is necessary to recover the methanol by water washing. Since the glycerin has a higher
density than the BioDiesel, it will gradually settle to the bottom of the reactor. Glycerin settling time is
dependent on the temperature of the ester with warmer temperatures giving a shorter settling time.
BioDiesel Mono Alkyl Esters

BioDiesel molecules are referred to as mono-alkyl esters, since they are esters with one alkyl
(from the alcohol) per fatty acid, in contrast to the triglycerides in the vegetable oil, which had three
fatty acids for each glycerol. If the alcohol used in making the BioDiesel was methanol, then the
BioDiesel is referred to as a methyl ester. If the alcohol was ethanol, the BioDiesel would consist of
ethyl esters.
133
Definitions of relevant Chemistry Words & Terminology
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Acid a classification of substances that liberate hydrogen ions in water, and are normally sour and corrosive,
with a pH lower than 7. A compound or atom that donates protons.
Alcohol a large classification of organic compounds containing one or more hydroxyl groups attached to
carbon atoms.
Aliphatic any non-aromatic organic compound
Aromatic any organic compound containing de-localized electrons in a ring structure - e.g. benzene, benzoic
acid.
Alkali a classification of substances that liberate hydroxide ions in water, to form caustic and corrosive
solutions which turn litmus paper blue, with a pH higher than 7, for example sodium Hydroxide. A compound
that reacts with or neutralizes hydrogen ions.
Base a classification of substances which when combined with an acid will form a salt plus water, usually
producing hydroxide ions when dissolved.
Bio-diesel C14 - C24 Methyl Ester. One of many alternative fuels created from a renewable organic source.
Bio-power The registered company name of and trade name of our company.
Bond the form of linkage between the individual atoms in a molecule.
Bond an area within the manufacturing plant which is secured to prevent the theft of materials that have not
been tax paid.
Bund The provision of liquid collection facilities which in the event of any leak or spillage from tanks or pipe
work will capture well in excess of the volume of liquids held within the bund area. Bunded areas should
drain to a capture tank which should have facilities for water/oil separation.
Burning the rapid oxidization of a substance in a manner that releases thermal energy
Calorific value the amount of heat or energy generated by a specified quantity of a fuel source
Carbon a common non-metallic element, occurring naturally as diamond, charcoal and graphite. One of the
most important elements for the development of life, and the storage of energy.
Carbon chain the atomic structure of hydrocarbons in which a series of carbon atoms, saturated by hydrogen
atoms, form a chain. Volatile oils have shorter chains. Fats have longer chain lengths, and waxes have
extremely long chains.
134
Carbon cycle The continuous process of combining and releasing carbon and oxygen thereby storing and
emitting heat and energy. Catabolism + anabolism = metabolism.
Carboxyl Carboxylic the univalent acid radical (-COOH), present in most organic acids, this making them
bio-degradable.
Carcinogen: A Carcinogenic chemical is one which is believed to be capable of causing cancer, that is,
acting as a carcinogen.
Catalyst: A substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction by reducing the activation energy, but
which is left unchanged by the reaction.
Cetane: The polar opposite of the Octane rating of gasoline which shows ignition delay, Cetane is a
measurement used to show how easily diesel fuel is auto ignited by compression & the smoothness of
combustion. A High Cetane value gives easier starting at low temperatures, smooth operation with less
knocking while Low Cetane can give poor compression ignition, misfiring, rough operation, higher knocking
& varnish deposits. The desired Cetane number varies with engine design, size, speed it is operated at, load
conditions, and atmospheric conditions such as temperature. Generally high speed diesel engines such as
vehicle engines require between 40 & 50 Cetane. Buying fuel rated above 50 Cetane is a waste of money.
Generally #2 diesel Cetane is 40 to 45, Premium diesel is between 45 & 50 Cetane, winterized #1 diesel is 48
to 52 Cetane, while BioDiesel made from vegetable oils is generally 46 to 52 Cetane and BioDiesel made
from animal fats is generally 56 to 60 Cetane.
CHP Combined Heat and Power. A phrase used to suggest greater efficiency obtained when the waste heat
from generating electricity can be used locally to provide low temperature heat for processing or domestic
heating.
Contamination: Foreign matter or the presence of unwanted or undesirable material present in chemicals.
Chemicals may be contaminated by a range of foreign matter, such as cross contamination due to poor
handling practices.
135
Combustion a reaction in which a substance produces heat or light by combination with oxygen, producing
an oxide.
DERV Diesel Engine Road Vehicle, but also used to describe the original form of mineral fuel used as a
substitute for organic oils burned in compression ignition engines designed by Diesel.
Diesel Currently known as a non-volatile mineral fuel with a high flash point used in compression ignition
engines. The name was borrowed from the Diesel Engine as invented by Dr Rudolf Diesel in 1895, originally
running on peanut oil. The name of the inventor was then transferred by the petrochemical industry to the
fossil fuel that became the substitute for the organic oils for which this form of engine was originally
developed.
Elastomer: a polymeric material that may experience large and reversible elastic deformations.
Emulsion: When two substances that normally do not mix well, such as water and oil, are successfully mixed
so that they are equally distributed throughout each other.
Energy of activation the amount of energy required as heat or pressure to misbalance an otherwise stable but
energy storing compound so that it will release its potential energy. The energy that must be overcome to
allow an otherwise exothermic reaction to proceed.
Entropy a measure of the unavailability of the thermal energy within a system for conversion into
mechanical work All energy transformations (i.e. chemical to chemical, chemical to thermal) increase
entropy.
Enzyme an organic proteinaceous compound that catalyses a specific biochemical reaction.
Esterification Production of ester by reacting alcohol and carboxylic acid
Ester a classification of organic compounds occurring naturally as oils and fats, produced by replacing the
hydrogen of an acid by an alkyl, aryl, radical. A compound of an organic acid bonded via an ester bond to an
alcohol. An ester is the product of combining an acid (abbreviated as R1-COOH) with an alcohol (abbreviated
as R2OH). Esters in general are often abbreviated as R1-COOR2, where R1COO represents the residue of an
oxygen acid (The residue is whats left when the hydrogen is lost), and R2 represents an alkyl from an
alcohol that lost its OH group. So, through the combination, an H is lost, and an OH (although in reality the O
could come from either the alcohol or the acid), yielding a water molecule (H2O), and the ester, made up of
everything else remaining of the acid and alcohol except the H2O. Esters vary depending on the type of acid
(R1COOH, often abbreviated as R1 for simplicity) and the type of alcohol (R2OH, often abbreviated R2).
Ethanol C2H6O An organic alcohol also called ethyl alcohol, formed when fermenting sugars or glycerin
136
FAME Fatty Acid Methyl Ester.
Fat a classification of natural esters of glycerol, and fatty acids existing as solids at room temperature.
FFA: Free Fatty Acid. This is formed when cooking foods.
Flash Point: The Flash Point of a chemical is the lowest temperature at which a flame will propagate through
the vapor of a combustible material to the liquid surface. It is determined by the vapor pressure of the liquid,
since only when a sufficiently high vapor concentration is reached, can it support combustion. It should be
noted that the source of ignition need not be an open flame, but could equally be, for example, a hot plate or a
hot motor.
Fossil remains of organic materials, subsequently buried within the earths crust, often carbonized as a result
of intense heat and / or pressure.
Free liberated, in the case of triglycerides, meaning the fatty acid hydrocarbon chains are detached from
glycerol, and thereby become free fatty acids.
Glycerin or Glycerol C3H8O3, a sweet greasy organic substance, produced as a result of hydrolyzing
triglycerides.
Grease oily or fatty matter, normally of organic origin, consisting of hydrocarbon chains. (American term).
Hydrocarbon a compound of hydrogen and carbon, often occurring as long atomic chains in which each
carbon atom is attached to two hydrogen atoms forming a long chain. They store a great deal of energy.
Hydrogen H The lightest gaseous element, and simplest of all atoms, occurring rarely in nature as a single
atom, but common in the form of water, and in all organic compounds
Indicator a substance which changes color at a given stage in or as a result of a chemical reaction.
Irritant: A chemical which may cause reversible inflammation on contact.
Kerosene Dodecane (Kerosene) C12H26 commonly used mineral fuel oil used as aviation fuel and central
heating consisting of many hydrocarbons containing molecules with about 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
Life-cycle analysis a total valuation of a process, in which all the inputs and outcomes of a reaction are
fully considered.
Lipid a classification of organic compounds, including fatty acids, oils, waxes and steroids, that are
insoluble in water but soluble in organic solvents.
LSD Low Sulphur Diesel. A type of fuel promoted in 2001 by the EPA in an attempt to reduce atmospheric
pollution but at the expense of engine wear. http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/diesel/directfinalrule.pdf
Methanol CH3OH A volatile colorless alcohol, derived originally as wood alcohol, used as a racing fuel
and as a solvent. Also called methyl alcohol.
137
Methoxide - Sodium Methoxide - Sodium Methylate - The salt of methanol, sodium methoxide, is an
organic salt, in pure form a white powder. Sodium methoxide in methanol is a liquid that kills human nerve
cells before any pain can be felt. In BioDiesel production, methoxide; is a product of mixing methanol and
sodium hydroxide, yielding a solution of sodium methoxide in methanol, and a significant amount of heat.
** Sodium Methoxide in methanol is a liquid that kills nerve cells before you can feel the pain. Rinse
with water and seek medical attention immediately!
Sodium methoxide mainly used as condensing agent, catalyzer with strong basicity and analytical reagent.
It is widely used in medicine, pesticide intermediates, edible fat.
CAS No.: 124-41-4 Molecular formula: CH3NaO Molecular weight: 54.02
Micron One millionth of a meter, which is about 1/25,000 of an inch. A 2-micron filter, provides the greatest
fuel system protection by supplying the finest filtration and ensuring the cleanest fuel. Due to tight mechanical
tolerances, the high-pressure systems of today can be more easily fouled and damaged by fuel impurities than
their predecessors of just a few years ago.
MSDS Sheet: MSDS is a very widely used abbreviation for Material Safety Data Sheet. A MSDS contains
details of the hazards associated with a chemical, and gives information on its safe use.
MWVF Modified Waste Vegetable Fat. The generic form of fuel made from non-transesterified fats that are
made suitable for use in normal engines by blending with solvents.
Octane C8H18 Inflammable hydrocarbon of the alkane series, containing 8 carbons. Used to delay ignition
& prevent Knocking due to preignition from dieseling. Inhibits Auto ignition of the fuel.
Oil a broad range of inflammable and often volatile organic compounds insoluble in water but soluble in
organic solvents. In biological systems, a fat that is liquid at room temperature (20oC)
Organic compounds that contain carbon, which are often created as a result of a life process.
Oxidation burning in oxygen, normally highly exothermic (heat releasing), but also any increase in
oxidization sate, (i.e. loss of electrons). Results in the formation of an oxide, rusting or corroding.
Oxygen O a common gaseous element, occurring naturally in the air, water, and most minerals and organic
substances, essential to the reciprocal processes of plant and animal life. Highly reactive combining with
other atoms, molecules and compounds through a process known as burning. Exists in the air as free
molecules O2 (O3 = ozone), and also dissolves in water. Vast quantities are present in all biological systems,
and in combined form in minerals and rocks.
Precipitate: A solid, insoluble substance that separates from a solution and eventually settles to the bottom of
the solution's container. Precipitates are often the result of a chemical reaction when new substances with
different physical properties are formed. A precipitate can also be formed when a hot, saturated solution is
cooled down and the extra solute precipitates.
Petrochemical substances derived from the winning of fossil hydrocarbons, in the form of crude oil or
natural gas, and tars.
138
Photosynthesis the process used within living organisms by which energy from the sun is stored
in carbohydrates made from carbon dioxide and water, using chlorophyll from plants. It is the major natural
energy collecting reaction, occurring mainly in plants. Plants use chlorophyll (a green photo-active pigment)
to capture solar energy within the chemical bonds of synthesized sugar molecules. The process effectively
reduces carbon dioxide and water to produce sugar and oxygen.
Plants then synthesize other sugars, proteins, DNA, starch, cellulose and fats from these simple hexoze sugars.
PPE Personal protective equipment. Common in industry & normally consists of Appropriate Chemical
resistant Eye & Face protection, gloves, apron, boots. The idea is to prevent chemical burns in case of
accidental chemical spills or splashes.
Protein a type of organic compound normally consisting of one or more amino acid chains, essential to all
living organisms
Reduction Classically, the removal of oxygen. Modern chemistry expands this concept to all compounds is
defined as loss of electrons.
RME Rapeseed Methyl Ester. The form of fuel created by transesterifying fat as a Fatty Acid Methyl Ester,
or FAME
Saturated containing the maximum number of hydrogen molecules, i.e. when every carbon atom in a
hydrocarbon chain is attached to two hydrogen atoms.
State In organic chemistry, will produce CO2 + H2O + (possibly other compounds)
Stearine a glycerol ester of stearic acid, derived from animal fats and used as tallow in the manufacture of
candles and soap.
Tallow One of the harder organic fats derived from animal carcasses, made by rendering the internal body
fat found within the abdominal cavity under the backbone and surrounding the kidneys, (suet). This material
was greatly used in manufacture of soap and candle wax.
Transesterification The process of making bio-diesel by the separation of the three hydrocarbon chains
from a lipid triglyceride to form glycerol, and bio-diesel.
Triglyceride a triple ester formed from glycerin (propan 1,2,3,triol) and three fatty acids.
ULSD Ultra low Sulphur Diesel. A type of diesel fuel mandated by the EPA & due to be implemented in
2007 in an attempt to reduce atmospheric pollution but likely will be at the expense of engine wear.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/diesel/directfinalrule.pdf
139
Unsaturated any carbon structure containing double or occasionally triple bonds. Many vegetable oils
contain fatty acids with one of more double bonds in them.
Viscosity the ability of a fluid to respond to movement. A high viscosity will resist movement, and a low
viscosity will flow quickly. This is not necessarily the same as density. Viscosity is normally measured
comparatively by the time a given volume of liquid will pass through a pipe of fixed diameter.
Viton: A hexafluoropropylene - vinylidene fluoride co-polymer which is widely used in protective clothing &
o-ring manufacture. Viton is a trademark of the DuPont Company. Is a chemically resistant elastomer.
WVO Waste Vegetable Oil. The fat we collect from restaurants etc, which is the main component of our
BioDiesel fuel.
140
Sources
Back to index
Sources of BioDiesel Information
http://www.OfficialBioDiesel.com/ Our Official BioDiesel web site!

http://www.BioDiesel.org/ National BioDiesel Board website
http://www.kitchen-BioDiesel.com/ Some good How to Info w/photos
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library.html Loaded with info on BioDiesel (Caution)
http://BioDiesel.infopop.cc/ A BioDiesel Forum
http://www.localb100.com/forum/ A BioDiesel Forum
http://forums.BioDieselnow.com/ A BioDiesel Forum
http://www.bbibiofuels.com/BioDieselmagazine/ A BioDiesel Magazine
Sources of Pumps & Fluid Handling Supplies
http://www.offocialBioDiesel.com/products/wash_ring.htm Nifty Bubble Bath Wash Ring

http://www.buymarchpumps.com/ Pumps
http://www.pumpbiz.com Pumps over 9000
http://www.gpi.net Fluid Transfer equipment
http://www.becomfg.com/ High tech chemical fluid handling components
http://www.boilerroomsupplies.com/industrialglass.html Glass tubes for sight glass
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1479 Clear Water Pump
Tank Suppliers (cone bottomed & Storage HDPE tanks)
Http://www.officialBioDiesel.com/products Steel cone tank source

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp Plastic tank source
http://www.watertanks.com/ Plastic tank source
http://www.totalplastic.com/ Plastic tank source
http://www.tanksystems.com/ Plastic tank source
http://www.polycorr.com/ Plastic tank source
http://www.plastic-mart.com/index.htm Plastic tank source
http://www.plastic-tanks.biz/ Plastic tank source
http://www.plastictanks.ca/ Plastic tank source
141
Laboratory Supplies, Reagents, Equipment & Lab Ware
Back to index
http://www.ofite.com/products/Supplies/supplies-description.htm Lab Ware supplies

http://www.sciencelab.com Science & Lab Ware supplies
http://www.coleparmer.com Chemical Supplies
http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page2.html Titration & Soap test kit
Chemical Suppliers
http://www.fryerpower.com/store/ Magnasol R60 Supplier

http://dir.indiamart.com/indianservices/ind_chem.html Global Chemical Supplier list
http://www.boyercorporation.com/ Sodium Hydroxide in Bulk
http://www.chemistrystore.com/Sodium_Hydroxide.htm Sodium Hydroxide
http://www.tarr-inc.com/facilities.html Methanol & Sodium Hydroxide
http://www.chemistrystore.com/potassium_hydroxide.htm Potassium Hydroxide
http://www.methanex.com Methanol Manufacturer
http://www.sunoco.com/ Methanol M-1
http://www.vpracingfuels.com Methanol M-1 99.95% min purity
www.mridrag.com Methanol M-1
http://www.dominionchemical.com East Coast USA Methanol
http://ntxBioDiesel.com/related_BioDiesel_production_acc.htm BioDiesel Chemicals
http://www.chemlink.com.au/methanol.htm Canada Methanol
http://www.chemlink.com.au/vicchem.htm Australia Methanol
Danbury Chassis Dyno - 203-241-7291 Methanol Source
New England Racing Fuels in Burlington Methanol Source
BioDieselWarehouse 203-426-1876 Methanol Source
Tilley Chemical in Baltimore Methanol Source
Coogee Chemicals, Australia Methanol Source
Sources for BioDiesel Reaction Processors & Plans
http://www.OfficialBioDiesel.com/ Our Famous BioDiesel web site!

http://www.BioDieselgear.com/equipment/ Sells Reaction Processors
http://www.fuelmeister.com/home/home.asp Sells Reaction Processors
http://www.BioDieselwarehouse.com/ One stop shop for BioDiesel parts
http://www.localb100.com/appleseed/ Open Source BioDiesel Processor plans
142
BioDiesel Reaction Processor Links with some building instruction
Back to index
http://www.OfficialBioDiesel.com/ Our Famous BioDiesel web site!

http://www.localaction.biz/process.htm A good BioDiesel Processor Vr1
http://www.localaction.biz/reactor_ii.htm The improved version II
http://www.localaction.biz/BeyondBioDiesel.htm A large scale WVO filtering project
Other Ideas for Wash Tanks
http://www.utahBioDiesel.org/events/200501BioDieselparty/tankplans.htm Good plans
Free & low cost how to make BioDiesel Videos
http://www.biolyle.com/thevideo.htm A fun video on making BioDiesel

http://www.eline2000.com/vre.htm A Good BioDiesel Video
BioDiesel Filtration
http://www.maesco.com/index.shtml Racor Filters

http://www.oilguard.com/mic_filtration.pHp OILGUARD bypass Filtration
http://www.generalfilters.com/oil-filters General Brand Fuel Oil Filters
Making Soap
http://www.eline2000.com/barsoap.htm Soap from your waste Glycerin

http://waltonfeed.com/old/soap/soap.html A very good source of soap making info
Misc Info Sources
http://www.enginemanufacturers.org Engine Manufacturers info
143
Processor Flow Diagrams
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Totally enclosed Full Complete BioDiesel System
Description: Parts List:

V1 Mix Jet 10 ea 90 degree elbows
V2 Tank Fill 15 ea 1 Ball Valves
V3 Mix Tank Drain 1 ea Chemical Check Valve
V4 WVO Fill Supply 1 ea Inline Heater (custom)
V5 - Pump Mix Feed / BD Drain 9 ea Tee fittings
V6 Methoxide Supply Feed 1 ea Clear Water Pump elect
V7 Glycerin Drain 1 ea Chemical Pump elect
V8 Settling Tank Drain 1 ea Chem. Hand Crank Pump
V9 Wash Tank Drain 3 ea Cone Bottom HDPE Lg
V10 Wash Tank Fill 1 ea Cone Bottom HDPE Sm
144
V11 Wash Tank Water Drain 3 ea micron Fuel Filters
V12 Settling Tank Fill 1 ea Mist Nozzles
V13 BioDiesel out to Filter Bank 1 ea - Mix Nozzle
V14 Settling Tank Water Drain 1 ea - Shower Head
V15 Pump Priming Vacuum Supply 1 ea Vacuum Pump for P1 prime
P1 BioDiesel Mixing/Transfer Pump 1 ea Stainless Steel funnel screen
P2 Methoxide Chemical mixing Pump
P3 Methanol Chemical Hand Pump
H1 In Line Oil Heater (custom)
C1 Methanol recovery condenser
C2 Methanol recovery condenser
Note: Not shown is the Shower Head & Hydroxide funnel filter located inside the Methoxide tank.
Note: Not shown is the additional Drying tank which would be located between the Wash tank & the
Settling tank. It would incorporate a heating element & shower head along with the appropriate ball vales &
perhaps its own circulation pump so a new batch of BD could be processed while drying and washing
previous batches.
Note: Methoxide tank is missing the vent and check valve assembly to prevent out gassing yet allow
air in during tank draining.
145
The following are Example MSDS Sheets covering
Back to index
MSDS or Material Data Safety Sheets are standard industrial safety literature that are designed
to inform people of inherent chemical hazards, if any exist & if so how to protect ones self
from harm when handling them. The MSDS program is an OSHA defined set of literature & is
primarily designed to deal with occupational exposure related to chemical handling over a
normal 8 hour work day & a 5 day a week job. Bearing this in mind use common sense.
Please read & familiarize yourself with the contents of these MSDS sheets as it may help you
to understand the hazards that you may potentially expose yourself to & how to deal with any
should they ever arise.
These sheets are representative of the chemicals involved in making BioDiesel. While every
chemical manufacturer has their own MSDS sheets and all MSDS sheets covering a given
chemical which should all identify the same chemical hazards, you are encouraged to obtain &
read the ones from the manufacturer of the chemical you are using. Generally you can request
a free copy or download a copy off their web site.
B100 neat 100% BioDiesel

Methyl alcohol (Methanol)
Sodium Methoxide
Sodium Hydroxide
Glycerin
Glycerol
The MSDS sheets begin on the next page.
146
B100 MSDS Example
Back to index
147
148
Example Methyl Alcohol MSDS Sheet
Back to index
MSDS Number: M2015 * * * * * Effective Date: 08/10/04 * * * * * Supersedes: 11/12/01
METHYL ALCOHOL
1. Product Identification
Synonyms: Wood alcohol; methanol; carbinol
CAS No.: 67-56-1
Molecular Weight: 32.04
Chemical Formula: CH3OH
Product Codes:
2. Composition/Information on Ingredients
Ingredient CAS No Percent Hazardous

--------------------------------------- ------------ ------------ ---------
Methyl Alcohol 67-56-1 100% Yes
149
3. Hazards Identification
Emergency Overview
--------------------------
POISON! DANGER! VAPOR HARMFUL. MAY BE FATAL OR CAUSE BLINDNESS
IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF INHALED OR ABSORBED THROUGH SKIN.
CANNOT BE MADE NONPOISONOUS. FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR.
CAUSES IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT. AFFECTS
CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM AND LIVER.
SAF-T-DATA(tm) Ratings (Provided here for your convenience)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Health Rating: 3 - Severe (Poison)
Flammability Rating: 3 - Severe (Flammable)
Reactivity Rating: 1 - Slight
Contact Rating: 3 - Severe (Life)
Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES & SHIELD; LAB COAT & APRON; VENT HOOD;
PROPER GLOVES; CLASS B EXTINGUISHER
Storage Color Code: Red (Flammable)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Potential Health Effects

----------------------------------
Inhalation:
A slight irritant to the mucous membranes. Toxic effects exerted upon nervous system,
particularly the optic nerve. Once absorbed into the body, it is very slowly eliminated.
Symptoms of overexposure may include headache, drowsiness, nausea, vomiting, blurred
vision, blindness, coma, and death. A person may get better but then worse again up to 30
hours later.
Ingestion:
Toxic. Symptoms parallel inhalation. Can intoxicate and cause blindness. Usual fatal dose:
100-125 milliliters.
Skin Contact:
Methyl alcohol is a defatting agent and may cause skin to become dry and cracked. Skin
absorption can occur; symptoms may parallel inhalation exposure.
Eye Contact:
Irritant. Continued exposure may cause eye lesions.
Chronic Exposure:
Marked impairment of vision has been reported. Repeated or prolonged exposure may cause
skin irritation.
Aggravation of Pre-existing Conditions:
Persons with pre-existing skin disorders or eye problems or impaired liver or kidney function
may be more susceptible to the effects of the substance.
150
4. First Aid Measures
Inhalation:
Remove to fresh air. If not breathing, give artificial respiration. If breathing is difficult, give
oxygen. Get medical attention immediately.
Ingestion:
Induce vomiting immediately as directed by medical personnel. Never give anything by mouth
to an unconscious person. Get medical attention immediately.
Skin Contact:
Immediately flush skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes while removing
contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention. Wash clothing before reuse.
Thoroughly clean shoes before reuse.
Eye Contact:
Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, lifting lower and upper
eyelids occasionally. Get medical attention immediately.
5. Fire Fighting Measures

Fire:
Flash point: 12C (54F) CC
Auto ignition temperature: 464C (867F)
Flammable limits in air % by volume:
lel: 6.0; uel: 36
Flammable Liquid and Vapor!
Explosion:
Above flash point, vapor-air mixtures are explosive within flammable limits noted above.
Moderate explosion hazard and dangerous fire hazard when exposed to heat, sparks or flames.
Sensitive to static discharge.
Fire Extinguishing Media:
Use alcohol foam, dry chemical or carbon dioxide. (Water may be ineffective.)
Special Information:
In the event of a fire, wear full protective clothing and NIOSH-approved self-contained
breathing apparatus with full face piece operated in the pressure demand or other positive
pressure mode. Use water spray to blanket fire, cool fire exposed containers, and to flush non-
ignited spills or vapors away from fire. Vapors can flow along surfaces to distant ignition
source and flash back.
151
6. Accidental Release Measures
Ventilate area of leak or spill. Remove all sources of ignition. Wear appropriate personal
protective equipment as specified in Section 8. Isolate hazard area. Keep unnecessary and
unprotected personnel from entering. Contain and recover liquid when possible. Use non-
sparking tools and equipment. Collect liquid in an appropriate container or absorb with an inert
material (e. g., vermiculite, dry sand, earth), and place in a chemical waste container. Do not
use combustible materials, such as saw dust. Do not flush to sewer! If a leak or spill has not
ignited, use water spray to disperse the vapors, to protect personnel attempting to stop leak, and
to flush spills away from exposures. US Regulations (CERCLA) require reporting spills and
releases to soil, water and air in excess of reportable quantities. The toll free number for the US
Coast Guard National Response Center is (800) 424-8802.
J. T. Baker SOLUSORB solvent adsorbent is recommended for spills of this product.
7. Handling and Storage

Protect against physical damage. Store in a cool, dry well-ventilated location, away from any
area where the fire hazard may be acute. Outside or detached storage is preferred. Separate
from incompatibles. Containers should be bonded and grounded for transfers to avoid static
sparks. Storage and use areas should be No Smoking areas. Use non-sparking type tools and
equipment, including explosion proof ventilation. Containers of this material may be hazardous
when empty since they retain product residues (vapors, liquid); observe all warnings and
precautions listed for the product. Do Not attempt to clean empty containers since residue is
difficult to remove. Do not pressurize, cut, weld, braze, solder, drill, grind or expose such
containers to heat, sparks, flame, static electricity or other sources of ignition: they may
explode and cause injury or death.
8. Exposure Controls/Personal Protection

Airborne Exposure Limits:
For Methyl Alcohol:
- OSHA Permissible Exposure Limit (PEL):
200 ppm (TWA)
- ACGIH Threshold Limit Value (TLV):
200 ppm (TWA), 250 ppm (STEL) skin
Ventilation System:
A system of local and/or general exhaust is recommended to keep employee exposures below
the Airborne Exposure Limits. Local exhaust ventilation is generally preferred because it can
152
control the emissions of the contaminant at its source, preventing dispersion of it into the
general work area. Please refer to the ACGIH document, Industrial Ventilation, A Manual of
Recommended Practices, most recent edition, for details. Use explosion-proof equipment.
Personal Respirators (NIOSH Approved):
If the exposure limit is exceeded and engineering controls are not feasible, wear a supplied air,
full-face piece respirator, air lined hood, or full-face piece self-contained breathing apparatus.
Breathing air quality must meet the requirements of the OSHA respiratory protection standard
(29CFR1910.134). This substance has poor warning properties.
Skin Protection:
Rubber or neoprene gloves and additional protection including impervious boots, apron, or
coveralls, as needed in areas of unusual exposure.
Eye Protection:
Use chemical safety goggles. Maintain eye wash fountain and quick-drench facilities in work
area.
9. Physical and Chemical Properties

Appearance:
Clear, colorless liquid.
Odor:
Characteristic odor.
Solubility:
Miscible in water.
Specific Gravity:
0.8
pH:
No information found.
% Volatiles by volume @ 21C (70F):
100
Boiling Point:
64.5C (147F)
Melting Point:
-98C (-144F)
Vapor Density (Air=1):
1.1
Vapor Pressure (mm Hg):
97 @ 20C (68F)
Evaporation Rate (BuAc=1):
5.9
153
10. Stability and Reactivity
Stability:
Stable under ordinary conditions of use and storage.
Hazardous Decomposition Products:
May form carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and formaldehyde when heated to decomposition.
Hazardous Polymerization:
Will not occur.
Incompatibilities:
Strong oxidizing agents such as nitrates, per chlorates or sulfuric acid. Will attack some forms
of plastics, rubber, and coatings. May react with metallic aluminum and generate hydrogen gas.
Conditions to Avoid:
Heat, flames, ignition sources and incompatibles.
11. Toxicological Information
Methyl Alcohol (Methanol) Oral rat LD50: 5628 mg/kg; inhalation rat LC50: 64000 ppm/4H;
skin rabbit LD50: 15800 mg/kg; Irritation data-standard Draize test: skin, rabbit: 20mg/24 hr.
Moderate; eye, rabbit: 100 mg/24 hr. Moderate. Investigated as a mutagen, reproductive
effector.
--------\Cancer Lists\------------------------------------------------------
---NTP Carcinogen---
Ingredient Known Anticipated IARC Category
------------------------------------ ----- ----------- -------------
Methyl Alcohol (67-56-1) No No None
12. Ecological Information

Environmental Fate:
When released into the soil, this material is expected to readily biodegrade. When released into
the soil, this material is expected to leach into groundwater. When released into the soil, this
material is expected to quickly evaporate. When released into the water, this material is
expected to have a half-life between 1 and 10 days. When released into water, this material is
expected to readily biodegrade. When released into the air, this material is expected to exist in
the aerosol phase with a short half-life. When released into the air, this material is expected to
be readily degraded by reaction with photo chemically produced hydroxyl radicals. When
released into air, this material is expected to have a half-life between 10 and 30 days. When
released into the air, this material is expected to be readily removed from the atmosphere by
wet deposition.
Environmental Toxicity: This material is expected to be slightly toxic to aquatic life.
154
13. Disposal Considerations
Whatever cannot be saved for recovery or recycling should be handled as hazardous waste and
sent to a RCRA approved incinerator or disposed in a RCRA approved waste facility.
Processing, use or contamination of this product may change the waste management options.
State and local disposal regulations may differ from federal disposal regulations. Dispose of
container and unused contents in accordance with federal, state and local requirements.
14. Transport Information

Domestic (Land, D.O.T.)
-----------------------
Proper Shipping Name: METHANOL
Hazard Class: 3
UN/NA: UN1230
Packing Group: II
Information reported for product/size: 358LB
International (Water, I.M.O.)

-----------------------------
Proper Shipping Name: METHANOL
Hazard Class: 3, 6.1
UN/NA: UN1230
Packing Group: II
15. Regulatory Information

--------\Chemical Inventory Status - Part 1\---------------------------------
Ingredient TSCA EC Japan Australia
----------------------------------------------- ---- --- ----- ---------
Methyl Alcohol (67-56-1) Yes Yes Yes Yes

--Canada--
Ingredient Korea DSL NDSL PHil.
----------------------------------------------- ----- --- ---- -----
Methyl Alcohol (67-56-1) Yes Yes No Yes
--------\Federal, State & International Regulations - Part 1\----------------

-SARA 302- ------SARA 313------
Ingredient RQ TPQ List Chemical Catg.
----------------------------------------- --- ----- ---- --------------
Methyl Alcohol (67-56-1) No No Yes No
155
-RCRA- -TSCA-
Ingredient CERCLA 261.33 8(d)
----------------------------------------- ------ ------ ------
Methyl Alcohol (67-56-1) 5000 U154 No
Chemical Weapons Convention: No TSCA 12(b): No CDTA: No

SARA 311/312: Acute: Yes Chronic: Yes Fire: Yes Pressure: No
Reactivity: No (Pure / Liquid)
Australian Hazchem Code: 2PE

Poison Schedule: S6
WHMIS:
This MSDS has been prepared according to the hazard criteria of the Controlled Products
Regulations (CPR) and the MSDS contains all of the information required by the CPR.
16. Other Information

NFPA Ratings: Health: 1 Flammability: 3 Reactivity: 0
Label Hazard Warning:
POISON! DANGER! VAPOR HARMFUL. MAY BE FATAL OR CAUSE BLINDNESS IF
SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF INHALED OR ABSORBED THROUGH SKIN. CANNOT
BE MADE NONPOISONOUS. FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR. CAUSES
IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT. AFFECTS CENTRAL
NERVOUS SYSTEM AND LIVER.
Label Precautions:
Avoid breathing vapor.
Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing.
Wash thoroughly after handling.
Keep container closed.
Use only with adequate ventilation.
Keep away from heat, sparks and flame.
Label First Aid:
If inhaled, remove to fresh air. If not breathing, give artificial respiration. If breathing is
difficult, give oxygen. If swallowed, induce vomiting immediately as directed by medical
personnel. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. In case of contact,
immediately flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes while removing
contaminated clothing and shoes. Wash clothing before reuse. In all cases get medical attention
immediately.
Product Use:
Laboratory Reagent.
Revision Information:
156
No Changes.
Disclaimer:
****************************************************************************
********************
XXXXX, Inc. provides the information contained herein in good faith but makes no
representation as to its comprehensiveness or accuracy. This document is intended only
as a guide to the appropriate precautionary handling of the material by a properly
trained person using this product. Individuals receiving the information must exercise
their independent judgment in determining its appropriateness for a particular purpose.
XXXXX, INC. MAKES NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES, EITHER
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY
WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE WITH RESPECT TO THE INFORMATION SET FORTH HEREIN OR
THE PRODUCT TO WHICH THE INFORMATION REFERS. ACCORDINGLY,
MALLINCKRODT BAKER, INC. WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES
RESULTING FROM USE OF OR RELIANCE UPON THIS INFORMATION.
****************************************************************************
********************
Prepared by: Environmental Health & Safety
157
Example Sodium Methoxide MSDS Sheet
Back to index
MSDS Number: M2028 * * * * * Effective Date: 07/07/04 * * * * * Supersedes: 08/02/01
SODIUM METHOXIDE
Synonyms: Sodium mehtylate; Methanol, Sodium Derivative; methanol, sodium salt; sodium
methylate, dry
CAS No.: 124-41-4
Chemical Formula: CH3NaO
Product Codes:

--------------------------------------- ------------ ------------ ---------
Sodium Methylate 124-41-4 90 - 100% Yes
158
Emergency Overview
--------------------------
DANGER! CORROSIVE. CAUSES BURNS TO ANY AREA OF CONTACT.
MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY DESTRUCTIVE TO THE UPPER RESPIRATORY
TRACT, EYES AND SKIN. HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED OR INHALED.
FLAMMABLE SOLID. POWERFUL REDUCING AGENT.

----------------------------------
Inhalation:
Inhalation produces damaging effects on the mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract.
Symptoms may include irritation of the nose and throat, and labored breathing. May cause lung
edema, a medical emergency.
Ingestion:
Corrosive. Swallowing can cause severe burns of the mouth, throat, and stomach. Can cause
sore throat, vomiting, diarrhea. Abdominal spasms may occur.
Skin Contact:
Corrosive. Symptoms of redness, pain, and severe burn can occur.
Eye Contact:
Corrosive. Contact can cause blurred vision, redness, pain and severe tissue burns.
Chronic Exposure:

Inhalation:
oxygen. Get medical attention immediately.
Ingestion:
If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING. Give large quantities of water. Never give
anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Get medical attention immediately.
Skin Contact:
Wipe off excess material from skin then immediately flush skin with plenty of water for at
least 15 minutes while removing contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention
immediately. Wash clothing before reuse. Thoroughly clean shoes before reuse.
Eye Contact:
159

Fire:
Flammable Solid. Auto ignition is possible in moist air. Reacts with light metals to form
flammable hydrogen gas. Formation of methanol from water poses fire hazard.
Explosion:
Risk of explosion as a result of forming explosive vapors.
Dry chemical, foam or carbon dioxide. NO HYDROUS EXTINGUISHING AGENTS. Water
causes ignition.
pressure mode.

Remove all sources of ignition. Ventilate area of leak or spill. Wear appropriate personal
protective equipment as specified in Section 8. Spills: Clean up spills in a manner that does not
disperse dust into the air. Use non-sparking tools and equipment. Reduce airborne dust and
prevent scattering by moistening with water. Pick up spill for recovery or disposal and place in
a closed container. DO NOT USE WATER. US Regulations (CERCLA) require reporting
spills and releases to soil, water and air in excess of reportable quantities. The toll free number
for the US Coast Guard National Response Center is (800) 424-8802.

Protect against physical damage. Store in a cool, dry well-ventilated location, away from any
area where the fire hazard may be acute. Outside or detached storage is preferred. Separate
from incompatibles. Containers should be bonded and grounded for transfers to avoid static
sparks. Storage and use areas should be No Smoking areas. Use non-sparking type tools and
equipment, including explosion proof ventilation. PROTECT FROM MOISTURE. Containers
of this material may be hazardous when empty since they retain product residues (dust, solids);
observe all warnings and precautions listed for the product. Do Not attempt to clean empty
containers since residue is difficult to remove. Do not pressurize, cut, weld, braze, solder, drill,
160
grind or expose such containers to heat, sparks, flame, static electricity or other sources of
ignition: they may explode and cause injury or death.

None established.
Ventilation System:
A system of local and/or general exhaust is recommended to keep employee exposures as low
as possible. Local exhaust ventilation is generally preferred because it can control the
emissions of the contaminant at its source, preventing dispersion of it into the general work
area. Please refer to the ACGIH document, Industrial Ventilation, A Manual of Recommended
Practices, most recent edition, for details.
For conditions of use where exposure to dust or mist is apparent and engineering controls are
not feasible, a particulate respirator (NIOSH type N95 or better filters) may be worn. If oil
particles (e.g. lubricants, cutting fluids, glycerine, etc.) are present, use a NIOSH type R or P
filter. For emergencies or instances where the exposure levels are not known, use a full-face
positive-pressure, air-supplied respirator. WARNING: Air-purifying respirators do not protect
workers in oxygen-deficient atmospheres.
Skin Protection:
Wear impervious protective clothing, including boots, gloves, lab coat, apron or coveralls, as
appropriate, to prevent skin contact.
Eye Protection:
Use chemical safety goggles and/or full face shield where dusting or splashing of solutions is
possible. Maintain eye wash fountain and quick-drench facilities in work area.

Appearance:
White powder.
Odor:
Pungent odor.
Solubility:
Decomposed by water.
Specific Gravity:
pH:
Boiling Point:
161
Not applicable.
Melting Point:
> 149C (> 300F) Decomposes in air above 127C

Stability:
Hydrolyzes into methanol and sodium hydroxide. A strong reducing agent.
Carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide may form when heated to decomposition.
Will not occur.
Incompatibilities:
Water, heat, chlorinated solvents, acids, strong oxidizing agents, and moist air.
Moisture, heat, flame, ignition sources, air and incompatibles.
No LD50/LC50 information found relating to normal routes of occupational exposure.
--------\Cancer Lists\------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------ ----- ----------- -------------
Sodium Methylate (124-41-4) No No None

Environmental Fate:
Environmental Toxicity:
162
sent to a RCRA approved waste facility. Processing, use or contamination of this product may
change the waste management options. State and local disposal regulations may differ from
federal disposal regulations. Dispose of container and unused contents in accordance with
federal, state and local requirements.

-----------------------
Proper Shipping Name: SODIUM METHYLATE
Hazard Class: 4.2, 8
UN/NA: UN1431
Packing Group: II
Information reported for product/size: 100G

-----------------------------
Proper Shipping Name: SODIUM METHYLATE
Hazard Class: 4.2, 8
UN/NA: UN1431
Packing Group: II
Information reported for product/size: 100G

----------------------------------------------- ---- --- ----- ---------
Sodium Methylate (124-41-4) Yes Yes Yes Yes

--Canada--
----------------------------------------------- ----- --- ---- -----
Sodium Methylate (124-41-4) Yes Yes No Yes

-SARA 302- ------SARA 313------
----------------------------------------- --- ----- ---- --------------
Sodium Methylate (124-41-4) No No No No
163
-RCRA- -TSCA-
----------------------------------------- ------ ------ ------
Sodium Methylate (124-41-4) 1000 No No

SARA 311/312: Acute: Yes Chronic: No Fire: Yes Pressure: No
Reactivity: Yes (Pure / Solid)
Australian Hazchem Code: 2P

Poison Schedule: None allocated.
WHMIS:

NFPA Ratings: Health: 3 Flammability: 3 Reactivity: 2 Other: Water reactive
DANGER! CORROSIVE. CAUSES BURNS TO ANY AREA OF CONTACT. MATERIAL
IS EXTREMELY DESTRUCTIVE TO THE UPPER RESPIRATORY TRACT, EYES AND
SKIN. HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED OR INHALED. FLAMMABLE SOLID. POWERFUL
REDUCING AGENT.
Label Precautions:
Keep away from heat, sparks and flame.
Do not get in eyes, on skin, or on clothing.
Do not breathe dust.
Keep container closed and away from acids.
Do not get wet.
Unstable, explosive. See Section 2.
Label First Aid:
In case of contact, wipe off excess material from skin then immediately flush eyes or skin with
plenty of water for at least 15 minutes while removing contaminated clothing and shoes. Wash
clothing before reuse. If inhaled, remove to fresh air. If not breathing, give artificial respiration.
If breathing is difficult, give oxygen. If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING. Give
large quantities of water. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. In all cases
get medical attention immediately.
Product Use:
Laboratory Reagent.
164
MSDS Section(s) changed since last revision of document include: 8.
Disclaimer:
****************************************************************************
********************
XXXX, Inc. provides the information contained herein in good faith but makes no
XXXX, INC. MAKES NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES, EITHER
****************************************************************************
********************
165
Example Potassium Hydroxide MSDS Sheet
Back to index
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
Example Sodium Hydroxide MSDS Sheet
Back to index
MSDS Number: S4034 * * * * * Effective Date: 07/07/04 * * * * * Supersedes: 05/11/04
SODIUM HYDROXIDE
Synonyms: Caustic soda; lye; sodium hydroxide solid; sodium hydrate
CAS No.: 1310-73-2
Chemical Formula: NaOH
Product Codes:

--------------------------------------- ------------ ------------ ---------
Sodium Hydroxide 1310-73-2 99 - 100% Yes
174
Emergency Overview
--------------------------
POISON! DANGER! CORROSIVE. MAY BE FATAL IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL
IF INHALED. CAUSES BURNS TO ANY AREA OF CONTACT. REACTS WITH
WATER, ACIDS AND OTHER MATERIALS.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Health Rating: 4 - Extreme (Poison)
Flammability Rating: 0 - None
Reactivity Rating: 2 - Moderate
Contact Rating: 4 - Extreme (Corrosive)
Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES & SHIELD; LAB COAT & APRON; VENT HOOD;
PROPER GLOVES
Storage Color Code: White Stripe (Store Separately)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------------------------------
Inhalation:
Severe irritant. Effects from inhalation of dust or mist vary from mild irritation to serious
damage of the upper respiratory tract, depending on severity of exposure. Symptoms may
include sneezing, sore throat or runny nose. Severe pneumonitis may occur.
Ingestion:
Corrosive! Swallowing may cause severe burns of mouth, throat, and stomach. Severe scarring
of tissue and death may result. Symptoms may include bleeding, vomiting, diarrhea, fall in
blood pressure. Damage may appears days after exposure.
Skin Contact:
Corrosive! Contact with skin can cause irritation or severe burns and scarring with greater
exposures.
Eye Contact:
Corrosive! Causes irritation of eyes, and with greater exposures it can cause burns that may
result in permanent impairment of vision, even blindness.
Chronic Exposure:
Prolonged contact with dilute solutions or dust has a destructive effect upon tissue.
Persons with pre-existing skin disorders or eye problems or impaired respiratory function may
be more susceptible to the effects of the substance.
175
Inhalation:
oxygen. Call a physician.
Ingestion:
DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING! Give large quantities of water or milk if available. Never
give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Get medical attention immediately.
Skin Contact:
Immediately flush skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes while removing
contaminated clothing and shoes. Call a physician, immediately. Wash clothing before reuse.
Eye Contact:
Note to Physician:
Perform endoscopy in all cases of suspected sodium hydroxide ingestion. In cases of severe
esophageal corrosion, the use of therapeutic doses of steroids should be considered. General
supportive measures with continual monitoring of gas exchange, acid-base balance,
electrolytes, and fluid intake are also required.

Fire:
Not considered to be a fire hazard. Hot or molten material can react violently with water.
Can react with certain metals, such as aluminum, to generate flammable hydrogen gas.
Explosion:
Not considered to be an explosion hazard.
Use any means suitable for extinguishing surrounding fire. Adding water to caustic solution
generates large amounts of heat.
pressure mode.
176
Ventilate area of leak or spill. Keep unnecessary and unprotected people away from area of
spill. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment as specified in Section 8. Spills: Pick up
and place in a suitable container for reclamation or disposal, using a method that does not
generate dust. Do not flush caustic residues to the sewer. Residues from spills can be diluted
with water, neutralized with dilute acid such as acetic, hydrochloric or sulfuric. Absorb
neutralized caustic residue on clay, vermiculite or other inert substance and package in a
suitable container for disposal.
US Regulations (CERCLA) require reporting spills and releases to soil, water and air in excess
of reportable quantities. The toll free number for the US Coast Guard National Response
Center is (800) 424-8802.

Keep in a tightly closed container. Protect from physical damage. Store in a cool, dry,
ventilated area away from sources of heat, moisture and incompatibilities. Always add the
caustic to water while stirring; never the reverse. Containers of this material may be hazardous
when empty since they retain product residues (dust, solids); observe all warnings and
precautions listed for the product. Do not store with aluminum or magnesium. Do not mix with
acids or organic materials.

2 mg/m3 Ceiling
2 mg/m3 Ceiling
Ventilation System:
Recommended Practices, most recent edition, for details.
If the exposure limit is exceeded and engineering controls are not feasible, a half face piece
particulate respirator (NIOSH type N95 or better filters) may be worn for up to ten times the
exposure limit or the maximum use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory
177
agency or respirator supplier, whichever is lowest.. A full-face piece particulate respirator
(NIOSH type N100 filters) may be worn up to 50 times the exposure limit, or the maximum
use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory agency, or respirator supplier,
whichever is lowest. If oil particles (e.g. lubricants, cutting fluids, glycerine, etc.) are present,
use a NIOSH type R or P filter. For emergencies or instances where the exposure levels are not
known, use a full-face piece positive-pressure, air-supplied respirator. WARNING: Air-
purifying respirators do not protect workers in oxygen-deficient atmospheres.
Skin Protection:
Wear impervious protective clothing, including boots, gloves, lab coat, apron or coveralls, as
appropriate, to prevent skin contact.
Eye Protection:
Use chemical safety goggles and/or a full face shield where splashing is possible. Maintain eye
wash fountain and quick-drench facilities in work area.

Appearance:
White, deliquescent pellets or flakes.
Odor:
Odorless.
Solubility:
111 g/100 g of water.
Specific Gravity:
2.13
pH:
13 - 14 (0.5% soln.)
0
Boiling Point:
1390C (2534F)
Melting Point:
318C (604F)
> 1.0
Negligible.
178
Stability:
Stable under ordinary conditions of use and storage. Very hygroscopic. Can slowly pick up
moisture from air and react with carbon dioxide from air to form sodium carbonate.
Sodium oxide. Decomposition by reaction with certain metals releases flammable and
explosive hydrogen gas.
Will not occur.
Incompatibilities:
Sodium hydroxide in contact with acids and organic halogen compounds, especially
trichloroethylene, may causes violent reactions. Contact with nitro methane and other similar
nitro compounds causes formation of shock-sensitive salts. Contact with metals such as
aluminum, magnesium, tin, and zinc cause formation of flammable hydrogen gas. Sodium
hydroxide, even in fairly dilute solution, reacts readily with various sugars to produce carbon
monoxide. Precautions should be taken including monitoring the tank atmosphere for carbon
monoxide to ensure safety of personnel before vessel entry.
Moisture, dusting and incompatibles.
Irritation data: skin, rabbit: 500 mg/24H severe; eye rabbit: 50 ug/24H severe; investigated as a
mutagen.
--------\Cancer Lists\------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------ ----- ----------- -------------
Sodium Hydroxide (1310-73-2) No No None

Environmental Fate:
179
sent to a RCRA approved waste facility. Processing, use or contamination of this product may
change the waste management options. State and local disposal regulations may differ from
federal disposal regulations. Dispose of container and unused contents in accordance with
federal, state and local requirements.

-----------------------
Proper Shipping Name: SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SOLID
Hazard Class: 8
UN/NA: UN1823
Packing Group: II

-----------------------------
Proper Shipping Name: SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SOLID
Hazard Class: 8
UN/NA: UN1823
Packing Group: II

----------------------------------------------- ---- --- ----- ---------
Sodium Hydroxide (1310-73-2) Yes Yes Yes Yes

--Canada--
----------------------------------------------- ----- --- ---- -----
Sodium Hydroxide (1310-73-2) Yes Yes No Yes

-SARA 302- ------SARA 313------
----------------------------------------- --- ----- ---- --------------
180
Sodium Hydroxide (1310-73-2) No No No No

-RCRA- -TSCA-
----------------------------------------- ------ ------ ------
Sodium Hydroxide (1310-73-2) 1000 No No

SARA 311/312: Acute: Yes Chronic: No Fire: No Pressure: No
Reactivity: Yes (Pure / Solid)
Australian Hazchem Code: 2R

Poison Schedule: S6
WHMIS:

POISON! DANGER! CORROSIVE. MAY BE FATAL IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF
INHALED. CAUSES BURNS TO ANY AREA OF CONTACT. REACTS WITH WATER,
ACIDS AND OTHER MATERIALS.
Label Precautions:
Do not get in eyes, on skin, or on clothing.
Do not breathe dust.
Label First Aid:
If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING. Give large quantities of water. Never give
anything by mouth to an unconscious person. In case of contact, immediately flush eyes or skin
with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes while removing contaminated clothing and shoes.
Wash clothing before reuse. If inhaled, remove to fresh air. If not breathing give artificial
respiration. If breathing is difficult, give oxygen. In all cases get medical attention
immediately.
Product Use:
Laboratory Reagent.
181
Disclaimer:
****************************************************************************
********************
XXXX, Inc. provides the information contained herein in good faith but makes no
representation as to its comprehensiveness or accuracy. This document is intended only as a
guide to the appropriate precautionary handling of the material by a properly trained person
using this product. Individuals receiving the information must exercise their independent
judgment in determining its appropriateness for a particular purpose. XXXX, INC. MAKES
NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED,
INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY,
FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE WITH RESPECT TO THE INFORMATION
SET FORTH HEREIN OR THE PRODUCT TO WHICH THE INFORMATION REFERS.
ACCORDINGLY, MALLINCKRODT BAKER, INC. WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR
DAMAGES RESULTING FROM USE OF OR RELIANCE UPON THIS INFORMATION.
****************************************************************************
********************
182
Example Glycerine MSDS Sheet
Back to index
Material Safety Data Sheet

Glycerine
Section 1 - Chemical Product and Company Identification
MSDS Name: Glycerine

Catalog Numbers:
Synonyms: Glycerol; 1,2,3-Propanetriol; Glyceritol; Glycic Alcohol; 1,2,3-Trihydroxypropane; 1,2,3-

Propanetriol
Company Identification:
For information, call: xxx-xxx-xxxx

Emergency Number: xxx-xxx-xxxx
For CHEMTREC assistance, call: 800-424-9300
For International CHEMTREC assistance, call: 703-527-3887
Section 2 - Composition, Information on Ingredients

CAS# Chemical Name Percent EINECS/ELINCS
56-81-5 Glycerine 100.0 200-289-5
Hazard Symbols: None listed.

Risk Phrases: None listed.
Section 3 - Hazards Identification

EMERGENCY OVERVIEW
Appearance: clear. Caution! May cause eye and skin irritation. May cause respiratory and digestive
tract irritation. This is expected to be a low hazard for usual industrial handling.
Target Organs: None known.

Eye: May cause eye irritation.
Skin: May cause skin irritation. Low hazard for usual industrial handling.
Ingestion: Ingestion of large amounts may cause gastrointestinal irritation. Low hazard for usual
industrial handling. May cause headache.
Inhalation: Low hazard for usual industrial handling. Inhalation of a mist of this material may cause
respiratory tract irritation.
Chronic: No information found.
183
Section 4 - First Aid Measures
Eyes: Flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, occasionally lifting the upper and lower
eyelids. If irritation develops, get medical aid.
Skin: Flush skin with plenty of soap and water for at least 15 minutes while removing contaminated
clothing and shoes. Get medical aid if irritation develops or persists. Wash clothing before reuse.
Ingestion: Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Do NOT induce vomiting. If
conscious and alert, rinse mouth and drink 2-4 cupfuls of milk or water. Get medical aid if irritation or
symptoms occur.
Inhalation: Remove from exposure to fresh air immediately. If not breathing, give artificial respiration.
If breathing is difficult, give oxygen. Get medical aid if cough or other symptoms appear.
Notes to Physician: Treat symptomatically and supportively.
Section 5 - Fire Fighting Measures
General Information: As in any fire, wear a self-contained breathing apparatus in pressure-demand,

MSHA/NIOSH (approved or equivalent), and full protective gear. During a fire, irritating and highly toxic
gases may be generated by thermal decomposition or combustion. Use water spray to keep fire-exposed
containers cool. Vapors may be heavier than air. They can spread along the ground and collect in low or
confined areas. Containers may explode when heated.
Extinguishing Media: Use water spray to cool fire-exposed containers. Use agent most appropriate to
extinguish fire. Use water spray, dry chemical, carbon dioxide, or appropriate foam.
Section 6 - Accidental Release Measures
General Information: Use proper personal protective equipment as indicated in Section 8.

Spills/Leaks: Absorb spill with inert material (e.g. vermiculite, sand or earth), then place in suitable
container. Avoid runoff into storm sewers and ditches which lead to waterways. Clean up spills
immediately, observing precautions in the Protective Equipment section. Remove all sources of ignition.
Provide ventilation.
Section 7 - Handling and Storage
Handling: Wash thoroughly after handling. Wash hands before eating. Use with adequate ventilation.
Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing. Keep container tightly closed. Avoid ingestion and inhalation.
Wash clothing before reuse.
Storage: Store in a tightly closed container. Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area away from
incompatible substances. No special precautions indicated.
184
Section 8 - Exposure Controls, Personal Protection
Engineering Controls: Facilities storing or utilizing this material should be equipped with an eyewash
facility and a safety shower. Use adequate ventilation to keep airborne concentrations low.
Exposure Limits
Chemical Name ACGIH NIOSH OSHA - Final PELs

15 mg/m3 TWA (total dust);
no established RELs - see
Glycerine 10 mg/m3 TWA 5 mg/m3 TWA (respirable
Appendix D
fraction)
OSHA Vacated PELs: Glycerine: total dust: 10 mg/m3 TWA; respirable fraction: 5 mg/m3 TWA
Personal Protective Equipment
Eyes: Wear appropriate protective eyeglasses or chemical safety goggles as described by OSHA's eye
and face protection regulations in 29 CFR 1910.133 or European Standard EN166.
Skin: Wear appropriate protective gloves to prevent skin exposure.
Clothing: Wear appropriate protective clothing to minimize contact with skin.
Respirators: Follow the OSHA respirator regulations found in 29CFR 1910.134 or European Standard
EN 149. Always use a NIOSH or European Standard EN 149 approved respirator when necessary.
Section 9 - Physical and Chemical Properties
Physical State: Liquid

Appearance: clear
Odor: faint odor
pH: Not available.
Vapor Pressure: .0025 mm Hg @ 5
Vapor Density: 3.17 (H2O=1)
Evaporation Rate: Not available.
Viscosity: Not available.
Boiling Point: 290 deg C
Freezing/Melting Point:20 deg F
Auto ignition Temperature: 400 deg C ( 752.00 deg F)
Flash Point: 193 deg C ( 379.40 deg F)
Decomposition Temperature:290 deg C
NFPA Rating: (estimated) Health: 1; Flammability: 1; Reactivity: 0
Explosion Limits, Lower:1.1
Upper: Not available.
Solubility: Miscible in water. Insol. in chloroform,
Specific Gravity/Density:1.4746
Molecular Formula:C3H8O3
Molecular Weight:92.0542
185
Section 10 - Stability and Reactivity
Chemical Stability: Stable.

Conditions to Avoid: Incompatible materials, ignition sources, excess heat.
Incompatibilities with Other Materials: Not available.
Hazardous Decomposition Products: Carbon monoxide, irritating and toxic fumes and gases, carbon
dioxide.
Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur.
Section 11 - Toxicological Information
RTECS#:
CAS# 56-81-5: MA8050000
LD50/LC50:
CAS# 56-81-5:
Draize test, rabbit, eye: 126 mg Mild;
Draize test, rabbit, eye: 500 mg/24H Mild;
Draize test, rabbit, skin: 500 mg/24H Mild;
Inhalation, rat: LC50 = >570 mg/m3/1H;
Oral, mouse: LD50 = 4090 mg/kg;
Oral, rabbit: LD50 = 27 gm/kg;
Oral, rat: LD50 = 12600 mg/kg;
Skin, rabbit: LD50 = >10 gm/kg;<BR.
Carcinogenicity:
CAS# 56-81-5: Not listed by ACGIH, IARC, NIOSH, NTP, or OSHA.
Epidemiology: No information available.
Teratogenicity: No information available.
Reproductive Effects: No information available.
Neurotoxicity: No information available.
Mutagenicity: No information available.
Other Studies: No data available.
Section 12 - Ecological Information
Ecotoxicity: No data available. Cas# 56-81-5:LC50 (96 Hr.) rainbow trout = 50-67 mg/L; 12 degrees
CLC50 (96 Hr.) goldfish = >5000 mg/L
Environmental: No information available.
Physical: No information available.
Other: No information available.
186
Section 13 - Disposal Considerations
Chemical waste generators must determine whether a discarded chemical is classified as a hazardous
waste. US EPA guidelines for the classification determination are listed in 40 CFR Parts 261.3.
Additionally, waste generators must consult state and local hazardous waste regulations to ensure
complete and accurate classification.
RCRA P-Series: None listed.
RCRA U-Series: None listed.
Section 14 - Transport Information

Canada
US DOT IATA RID/ADR IMO
TDG
No
No information
Shipping Name: information
available.
available.
Hazard Class:
UN Number:
Packing Group:
Section 15 - Regulatory Information
US FEDERAL
TSCA
CAS# 56-81-5 is listed on the TSCA inventory.
Health & Safety Reporting List
None of the chemicals are on the Health & Safety Reporting List.
Chemical Test Rules
None of the chemicals in this product are under a Chemical Test Rule.
Section 12b
None of the chemicals are listed under TSCA Section 12b.
TSCA Significant New Use Rule
None of the chemicals in this material have a SNUR under TSCA.
SARA
Section 302 (RQ)

None of the chemicals in this material have an RQ.
Section 302 (TPQ)
None of the chemicals in this product have a TPQ.
SARA Codes
CAS # 56-81-5: chronic.
Section 313
No chemicals are reportable under Section 313.
Clean Air Act:
187
This material does not contain any hazardous air pollutants. This material does not contain any Class 1
Ozone depletors. This material does not contain any Class 2 Ozone depletors.
Clean Water Act:
None of the chemicals in this product are listed as Hazardous Substances under the CWA. None of the
chemicals in this product are listed as Priority Pollutants under the CWA. None of the chemicals in this
product are listed as Toxic Pollutants under the CWA.
OSHA:
None of the chemicals in this product are considered highly hazardous by OSHA.
STATE
CAS# 56-81-5 can be found on the following state right to know lists: Pennsylvania, Minnesota,
Massachusetts.
California No Significant Risk Level: None of the chemicals in this product are listed.
European/International Regulations
European Labeling in Accordance with EC Directives
Hazard Symbols:
Not available.
Risk Phrases:
Safety Phrases:
WGK (Water Danger/Protection)

CAS# 56-81-5: 0
Canada
CAS# 56-81-5 is listed on Canada's DSL List. CAS# 56-81-5 is listed on Canada's DSL List.
This product does not have a WHMIS classification.
CAS# 56-81-5 is not listed on Canada's Ingredient Disclosure List.
Exposure Limits
CAS# 56-81-5: OEL-AUSTRALIA:TWA 10 mg/m3 OEL-BELGIUM:TWA 10 mg/m3
OEL-FINLAND:TWA 20 mg/m3 OEL-FRANCE:TWA 10 mg/m3 OEL-THE NETHERLANDS
:TWA 10 mg/m3 OEL-UNITED KINGDOM:TWA 10 mg/m3 OEL IN BULGARIA, COLOM
BIA, JORDAN, KOREA check ACGIH TLV OEL IN NEW ZEALAND, SINGAPORE, VIE
TNAM check ACGI TLV
Section 16 - Additional Information
MSDS Creation Date: 7/20/1999

Revision #2 Date: 8/02/2000
The information above is believed to be accurate and represents the best information currently available to us. However, we make no
warranty of merchantability or any other warranty, express or implied, with respect to such information, and we assume no liability
resulting from its use. Users should make their own investigations to determine the suitability of the information for their particular
purposes. In no event shall Fisher be liable for any claims, losses, or damages of any third party or for lost profits or any special, indirect,
incidental, consequential or exemplary damages, howsoever arising, even If xxxx has been advised of the possibility of such damages.
188
Example Glycerol MSDS Sheet
Back to index
MSDS Number: G4774 * * * * * Effective Date: 05/25/05 * * * * * Supersedes: 08/10/04
GLYCEROL
Synonyms: 1,2,3-propanetriol; glycerin; glycol alcohol; glycerol, anhydrous
CAS No.: 56-81-5
Chemical Formula: C3H5(OH)3
Product Codes:

--------------------------------------- ------------ ------------ ---------
Glycerin 56-81-5 90 - 100% Yes
Emergency Overview
--------------------------
CAUTION! MAY CAUSE IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES, AND RESPIRATORY
TRACT. MAY AFFECT KIDNEYS.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Health Rating: 2 - Moderate (Life)
Flammability Rating: 1 - Slight
Reactivity Rating: 0 - None
189
Contact Rating: 1 - Slight
Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES; LAB COAT; VENT HOOD; PROPER GLOVES
Storage Color Code: Green (General Storage)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------------------------------
Inhalation:
Due to the low vapor pressure, inhalation of the vapors at room temperatures is unlikely.
Inhalation of mist may cause irritation of respiratory tract.
Ingestion:
Low toxicity. May cause nausea, headache, diarrhea.
Skin Contact:
May cause irritation.
Eye Contact:
May cause irritation.
Chronic Exposure:
May cause kidney injury.
Persons with pre-existing skin disorders or eye problems or impaired liver or kidney function
may be more susceptible to the effects of the substance.

Inhalation:
Remove to fresh air. Get medical attention for any breathing difficulty.
Ingestion:
Induce vomiting immediately as directed by medical personnel. Never give anything by mouth
to an unconscious person. Get medical attention.
Skin Contact:
Immediately flush skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Remove contaminated
clothing and shoes. Wash clothing before reuse. Thoroughly clean shoes before reuse. Get
medical attention if irritation develops.
Eye Contact:
Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes, lifting upper and lower
eyelids occasionally. Get medical attention if irritation persists.

Fire:
Flash point: 199C (390F) CC
190
Auto ignition temperature: 370C (698F)
Slight fire hazard when exposed to heat or flame. Slight fire hazard when exposed to heat or
flame.
Explosion:
Above flash point, vapor-air mixtures may cause flash fire.
Use any means suitable for extinguishing surrounding fire. Water spray may be used to
extinguish surrounding fire and cool exposed containers. Water spray will also reduce fume
and irritant gases.
pressure mode.

Ventilate area of leak or spill. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment as specified in
Section 8. Contain and recover liquid when possible. Collect liquid in an appropriate container
or absorb with an inert material (e. g., vermiculite, dry sand, earth), and place in a chemical
waste container. Do not use combustible materials, such as saw dust. Do not flush to sewer!

Keep in a tightly closed container, stored in a cool, dry, ventilated area. Protect against
physical damage. Isolate from incompatible substances. Containers of this material may be
hazardous when empty since they retain product residues (vapors, liquid); observe all warnings
and precautions listed for the product.

For Glycerin Mist:
Total Dust: 15 mg/m3 (TWA);
Respirable Fraction: 5 mg/m3(TWA).
10 mg/m3
Ventilation System:
191
Recommended Practices, most recent edition, for details.
If the exposure limit is exceeded and engineering controls are not feasible, a half face piece
particulate respirator (NIOSH type P95 or R95 filters) may be worn for up to ten times the
exposure limit or the maximum use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory
agency or respirator supplier, whichever is lowest.. A full-face piece particulate respirator
(NIOSH type P100 or R100 filters) may be worn up to 50 times the exposure limit, or the
maximum use concentration specified by the appropriate regulatory agency, or respirator
supplier, whichever is lowest. Please note that N filters are not recommended for this material.
For emergencies or instances where the exposure levels are not known, use a full-face piece
positive-pressure, air-supplied respirator. WARNING: Air-purifying respirators do not protect
workers in oxygen-deficient atmospheres.
Skin Protection:
Wear protective gloves and clean body-covering clothing.
Eye Protection:
Use chemical safety goggles. Maintain eye wash fountain and quick-drench facilities in work
area.

Appearance:
Clear oily liquid.
Odor:
Odorless.
Solubility:
Miscible in water.
Specific Gravity:
1.26 @ 20C/4C
pH:
(neutral to litmus)
0
Boiling Point:
290C (554F)
Melting Point:
18C (64F)
3.17
0.0025 @ 50C (122F)
192

Stability:
Stable under ordinary conditions of use and storage.
Toxic gases and vapors may be released if involved in a fire. Glycerin decomposes upon
heating above 290C, forming corrosive gas (acrolein).
Will not occur.
Incompatibilities:
Strong oxidizers. Can react violently with acetic anhydride, calcium oxychloride, chromium
oxides and alkali metal hydrides.
Heat, flames, ignition sources and incompatibles.
Oral rat LD50: 12,600 mg/kg. Investigated as a mutagen, reproductive effector.
--------\Cancer Lists\------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------ ----- ----------- -------------
Glycerin (56-81-5) No No None

Environmental Fate:
When released into the soil, this material is expected to readily biodegrade. When released into
the soil, this material is not expected to evaporate significantly. When released into water, this
material is expected to readily biodegrade. This material is not expected to significantly
bioaccumulate. When released into the air, this material may be moderately degraded by
reaction with photo chemically produced hydroxyl radicals. When released into the air, this
material may be removed from the atmosphere to a moderate extent by wet deposition.
This material is not expected to be toxic to aquatic life.
193
Whatever cannot be saved for recovery or recycling should be managed in an appropriate and
approved waste disposal facility. Processing, use or contamination of this product may change
the waste management options. State and local disposal regulations may differ from federal
disposal regulations. Dispose of container and unused contents in accordance with federal,
state and local requirements.

Not regulated.

----------------------------------------------- ---- --- ----- ---------
Glycerin (56-81-5) Yes Yes Yes Yes

--Canada--
----------------------------------------------- ----- --- ---- -----
Glycerin (56-81-5) Yes Yes No Yes

-SARA 302- ------SARA 313------
----------------------------------------- --- ----- ---- --------------
Glycerin (56-81-5) No No No No

-RCRA- -TSCA-
----------------------------------------- ------ ------ ------
Glycerin (56-81-5) No No No

SARA 311/312: Acute: Yes Chronic: Yes Fire: No Pressure: No
Reactivity: No (Pure / Liquid)
194
Australian Hazchem Code: None allocated.
Poison Schedule: None allocated.
WHMIS:

CAUTION! MAY CAUSE IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES, AND RESPIRATORY TRACT.
MAY AFFECT KIDNEYS.
Label Precautions:
Avoid breathing mist.
Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing.
Use with adequate ventilation.
Label First Aid:
If inhaled, remove to fresh air. Get medical attention for any breathing difficulty. In case of
contact, immediately flush eyes or skin with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Get
medical attention if irritation develops or persists.
Product Use:
Laboratory Reagent.
Disclaimer:
****************************************************************************
********************
xxxxx, Inc. provides the information contained herein in good faith but makes no
xxxxx, INC. MAKES NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES, EITHER
****************************************************************************
195
Sample BioDiesel Log Book
Back to index
My Log Book of BioDiesel Production

Date WVO acquired
WVO Source
Date BioDiesel Made
WVO gallons used
Methanol Used
Hydroxide Used
Titration total value
Process Temperature F
Process Mix Time
Glycerol settling Time
Cold Water Washed?
Wash BD Temperature F
5% Gly pre-Wash?
Mist Washed?
Warm Water Washed?
Qty of Washes
Washing Time
Settling Time
Emulsion Problems?
Dried?
Drying Method
Air temp F
Ambient Humidity %
Drying Temperature F
Drying Time
Gallons of Finished BD
Date Finished
Settling Time in days
Date Used
196
BioDiesel Internet Information Links
Back to index
National Biodiesel Board www.biodiesel.org
DOE Alternative Fuels Data Center www.afdc.doe.gov/altfuel/biodiesel.html
University of Idaho www.uidaho.edu/bae/biodiesel/
DOE Office of Transportation Technologies www.ott.doe.gov/
DOE Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Network www.eere.energy.gov/RE/bio_fuels.html
Veggie Van Home Page www.veggievan.org/biodiesel/
Berkeley Biodiesel Collective http://bapd.org/gbeeve-1.html
Pacific Biodiesel, Inc. www.biodiesel.com
Sustainable Solutions Caravan www.sustainablesolutionscaravan.org/englishIndex.html
National Biodiesel Board www.biodiesel.org
Government Agencies with Biofuel Information
Oak Ridge National Laboratories www.esd.ornl.gov/bfdp
National Renewable Energy Laboratory www.afdc.nrel.gov
Department of Energy
www.eere.energy.gov/redirects/eren.htmlor www.eere.energy.gov/biomass/renewable_diesel.html
Chemistry of Biodiesel Resources http://koal2.cop.fi/leonardo/
197
Standards and Testing, Chemical Composition of Biodiesel
Back to index
National Standards for Biodiesel www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_yield2.html#biodstds
Biodiesel Chemical Properties www.chanco.unima.mw/pHysics/biodieselanaly.html
ASTM Standards www.astm.org/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/NEWSITE_JAVASCRIPT/

index.shtml?L+mystore+gqer6270+1109202595
Cetane Number Testing of Biodiesel

www.biodiesel.org/resources/reportsdatabase/reports/gen/19960901_gen-187.pdf
Methanol Composition and MSDS www.bu.edu/es/labsafety/ESMSDSs/MSMethanol.html
Glycerine Uses www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_glycerin.html
Education, Research Sites & Papers

University of Idaho workshops www.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/
University of Idaho BioDiesel technical papers

http://www.me.iastate.edu/biodiesel/Technical Papers/Tech_papers.html
University of Idaho BioDiesel Utilization Workshop info www.uidaho.edu/bae/biodiesel/
Other General Information
www.allpar.com/ed/biodiesel.html
www.veggieavenger.com
198
Using SVO Vegetable Oil as Fuel
Back to index
Note: we do not recommend this method!
Using vegetable oil in diesel engines

www.oilpress.com/drive_your_diesel.htm
Using vegetable oil in diesel engines
www.rerorust.de/
Using vegetable oil in diesel engines, conversion kits

www.biofuels.ca/
Greasel Conversion Kits Economic Feasibility of Producing Biodiesel in Tennessee

www.greasel.com/ http://web.utk.edu/~aimag/pubs/biodiesel.pdf
www.greasecar.com/
Reclaiming Methanol
http://home.swbell.net/scrof/Biod_Proc.html
www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_processor2.html
www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_processor8.html#press
Respirator Selection
www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0397.html
Soap Making Using Biodiesel Waste Glycerol

www.journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_glycerin.html#soap
Biodiesel as a Home Heating Fuel

www.biodiesel.org/markets/hom/default.asp
199
Photo Gallery
Back to index
A photo of a sample batch of BioDiesel being washed, also a slick way to drain wash water is to
use an old dish soap bottle upside down like this & simply squirt it out.
More photos located on the following pages.
200
Photos of BioDiesel in various stages
Back to index
Left to Right:
Raw WVO before processed, Raw BioDiesel before draining glycerol, BioDiesel after 1st mist
washing (note the BioDiesels Orange Juice look).
201
Back to index
Wash Water Left to Right:

After1 mist wash, after 2nd mist wash, after 3rd mist wash
st
202
Back to index
Left to Right:
Water after 1st overnight bubble wash, water after 2nd overnight bubble wash, clean wet BioDiesel
before drying.
203
Back to index
Clean & Dry BioDiesel all ready to burn after filtering
204
Back to index
Our simple Methoxide Mixing tank

Many people ask us how we Mix our Methoxide.
So far we have always mixed it in steel containers, the photos below show how.
In our new Advanced BioDiesel Processor book, we will show you how to build a hands off
Methoxide mixer. The Advanced Processing Book we hope to release late 2007.
This is our Methoxide mixing tank, note the spigot extending out the left side.
This spigot is used to drain the mixing tank without risking splashing by pouring it out.
Left is the basic 5 gallon paint pail we mix in, Right is the 5 gallon drum we store in.
205
Back to index
As you can see the paint pail lid pour spout comes out, we use it that way to mix.
After mixing, we replace the pour spout to seal the pail while decanting Methoxide into storage drums.
This is the way the Spigot was plumbed out the side of the pail.
Going from Left to Right, note that the first pipe fitting is a coupling!
Next we have a short 3 nipple followed by yet another coupling & then our Spigot.
We could have eliminated the coupling attached to the Spigot if out Spigot had Female pipe threads.
In that case we simply would have used a 4 or perhaps 5 nipple rather than the 3 one.
Either way, it is your choice how far you desire the Spigot to extend away from the pail.
Left to Right
Left, is the exterior of the pail showing a Large flat washer located between the pipe coupling and the
side of the pail. This washer serves two purposes, first it provides some stiffness & secondly it covers
an o-ring that it squashes to the side of the pail to seal the hole drilled through the pail wall.
Right is shown the interior of the pail. Notice we also have a Large flat washer here as well & it
likewise also covers an 0-ring to seal the pail wall from the inside. If you look very closely, you will
see that we used a Pipe reducer fitting as a bolt to snug the inside & outside flat washers together. The
pipe coupling located on the outside of the pail serves as a nut that this pipe reducer fitting screws into.
See, our magic is exposed & it isnt so difficult after all!
206
Back to index
Mixing & Decanting Methoxide
Left to Right:
Far Left: The mixing paddle assembled to the drill motor through the hole in the lid.
Center: The lid along with the mixing assembly in position mixing Methoxide.
Right: Draining the Methoxide from the mixing tank into the temporary storage drum.
Note we use 2 of these 5 gallon drums to temporally store our Methoxide while it finishes combining.
This server two purposes, first it keeps the Methoxide in an air tight container & secondly our mixing
tank only holds about 4.5 gallons of Methoxide at a time & we need 9 gallons. Note the way the
Mixing tank rests solidly on top of the 5 gallon drums, we dont have to hold it in place & we get no
splashing!
Here we have a close up of the way our Mixing pail Spigot fits into the 5 Gallon drum for decanting.
After we finish draining the Mixing tank into the 1st storage drum we repeat the process for drum #2.
Following completion of mixing our Methoxide, we always rinse out the mixing pail with water from
our garden hose. This helps keep it clean inside and neutralizes the Methoxide. We then turn it upside
down & allow it to dry inside before storing it away. The temporary storage drums are used by us to
keep the Methoxide in for only a short period of time. Normally less than an hour. We usually mix the
Methoxide while our WVO is heating up & then once it is up to temperature we begin sucking it into
the processor over a 15 minute time frame. We do not rinse out the drums after emptying because they
would be very hard to dry inside & the likely hood of an accidental Methoxide contact from inside one
of these drums is very remote. We simply keep them tightly caped.
207
Cleaning out Hardened Glycerol in from the tank
Back to index
Left to Right: Hardened glycerol in bottom of tank after letting it sit too long, Same tank cleaned out
after washing it out with a garden hose & a stick to break up the glycerol. The reason why we like this
tank design so well is because you can get all the residual glycerol out of the tank! Try doing this with
an Appleseed processor, it cant be done! Appleseed processors always have residual junk remaining
in the tank which affects your next batch. Besides we can wash & dry BioDiesel in ours. So besides
always being dirty inside and not being able to inspect or clean the heating element, the Appleseed
processor cannot wash or dry fuel.
208
Heater Element Failure due to cooked on Crud
Back to index
Here is an example of a heater element that burned out because of too much cooked on crud. The
element failed because of the cooked on crud acted as a thermal insulator caused the element to overheat. This
element had just been cleaned with a wire brush before starting this batch. This particular WVO had even
been filtered through a window screen prior to processing. It was a cool day, our oil was cold and the flow
speed was slow. This time we did not watch the base temperature of the element close enough. Normally
monitoring the base temperature of the heating element & turning off power when it approaches 130F will
keep this from occurring. After temperature drops back to WVO temperature it is usually safe to return the
power on again. This was a 2400 watt 240 volt element that was operating on 240 volt AC power at the time
with good WVO circulation going. Usually if the element base temperature reaches about 140F they will burn
out. Once the oil gets hot it will flow well & element burnout normally is not an issue.
209
Screening some WVO for processing
Back to index
While not required, ordinary aluminum window screen works well to catch cooking crud.
We usually use a cam style lid clamp ring to securely hold the screen in place.
We left it out of this photo for some reason, not sure why.
Without the clamp ring holding the screen in place it can fall into the drum from the weight of the oil.
Notice the bowl shape we made in the window screen to hold the oil.
If using a high volume WVO pump such as ours, the screen works best when your oil is warm & runny.
If you have a slower volume pump, you may be able to use this screen on cooler days.
210
A Dip tube in use
Back to index
The dip tube used in this photo was made from 1 ID gray plastic electrical conduit.
The dip tube was cut so it rests about 3 to 4 off the bottom of the drum.
Being short prevents the dip tube from sucking up solids or grit from the bottom of the tank.
A white plastic water pipe 1 pipe thread fitting was glued to the tube.
A 1 to steel pipe elbow is screwed into the plastic fitting, use a lot of Teflon tape and dont over tighten!
Screw a steel barb fitting into the steel elbow, use Teflon tape pipe thread sealant.
The white tubing you see on the steel barb fitting is 1 ID plastic Spa Hose.
The white Spa hose is very hard & does not collapse under vacuum which is why we use it.
The 1 spa hose slips nice & snug over the steel barb shank & we use a hose clamp to keep secure.
The reason we do not use a 1 steel barb is because that Spa hose is almost impossible to get off a barb fitting.
The only way we ever manage to get the Spa hose off a 1 barb is to cut it off with a hacksaw.
211
All in One pipe call out schematic
Back to index
Back to All In One processor description
212
All in One Fitting call out schematic
Back to index
213
Low Fume shown Assembled & running
(note: For clarity it is shown without the insulation)
Back to index
Here you can see the plumbing up close, it really is not very complex, just plumb the pump close to
the drum. As you can see in the photos, we used a wire tie to hold the pump plumbing vertical. We added a
metal bracket later to hold it in place. When hydro testing the tank we dumped water into the tank from 5
gallon pails & marked the tank sight tube at handy 5 gallon intervals. These marking were later transferred
onto the vinyl exterior of our water heater insulation blanket that we use to retain heat. As you can see, the
tank still has a brown coating inside. This coating later peeled away in large sheets which we removed by
hand as it came loose. This is a normal thing & should not cause undue concern, just be sure to remove it as it
comes loose so that is doesnt clog up your shower head. If it does, you can always remove the shower head
pipe & rinse it out with water. The water heater element wiring is exposed in this photo, it later gets covered
up with a thick layer of water heater fiberglass insulation. If this is a concern, you can fabricate an electrical
box to house the wiring. Use of a standard household 4x4 receptacle box should work, just be sure to bolt it to
the tank so it cannot short the power to the tank. Not shown here but we did ground the tank to the electrical
ground for safety.
214
Low Fume Photos
Back to index
Left photo depicts the lower plumbing. If you were constructing an All in One processor, you would
weld the additional tank feed through fittings in the bottom of the drum and connect them to the cross pipe.
We would suggest that when you change the lower Tee shown in this photo to a 4 way, you move the
methoxide port to this level, that frees up the top cross pipe to connect with the Fuel nipple dam & the wash
stand pipe drain. See the call outs above if your confused.
The right photo shows the plumbing at a different angle to better clarify the relationship of the upper
plumbing.
215

Alternative Fuel - Pretty Good BioDiesel 121a Watermarked

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Alternative Fuel - Pretty Good BioDiesel 121a Watermarked

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How to Make Pretty

Good BioDiesel at Home

Copyright 2005 - 2007 OfficialBioDiesel.com all rights reserved

Sodium Hydroxide Example MSDS Sheet:...174

Copyright & Software license Notice

INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY; LIMITED LICENSE TO USERS; TRADEMARK INFORMATION

Q - Is it worth my time to make?

Q How much space does making BioDiesel require?

Q - Will the neighbors or neighborhood association complain or have an objection?

Q - Will I be in violation of any zoning ordinances?

Q Is BioDiesel dangerous to make or store?

On average at todays current costs

The US Dept of Energy BioDiesel Statement

Ecology & Greenhouse Gasses

BTU, Mileage & Power

Manufacturers Engine Warrantys

READ ALL the instructions Before making a sample batch.

1 clean clear 2 Liter plastic soda bottle

1 Liter of distilled water

Tools needed to titrate

** Phenolphthalein changes from colorless to pink

Cabbage Indicator PH Color Chart

Calibration of the 1cc & 5cc Syringe

Making an Accurate .1% Alkali Solution

How & Where to obtain the very best WVO

Used Oil Is:* Used Oil Is Not:

* This list does not include all

Mixing Pump or Paddle: Either type can be used to mix with.

2. Begin mixing & heating the WVO.

All about Choices

The Appleseed style Processor

Low Fume Pros:

Low Fume Cons:

Makes 40 gallons of BioDiesel at a time.

2 pipe wrenches big enough for pipe

List of Materials Needed, 55 gallon drum basic Low Fume Processor

2 pipe wrenches big enough for pipe

List of Materials Needed, Improved 55 gallon low Fume Processor

2 pipe wrenches big enough for pipe

List of Materials Needed, All in One Processor Design

First a little about Heater Elements, Water & Oil

The dimensions of the pieces used to construct this stand.

The exterior dimensions.

Valve ID & Functions

Following the identity chart above

9. Open the Tank drain isolation Ball Valve port (d).

13. Look for leaks & correct them as required.

How to operate the Process Tank

Following the identity chart above

Alternative Processor Filling method

1. Hook up all required hoses to your external pump.

1. Open the Tank drain isolation Ball Valve port (d).

3. Close ALL of the Ball Valves.

Instructions for Washing BioDiesel in the Process Tank

2. Start with ALL Ball Valves Closed.

3. Open the Pump Isolation Ball Valve.

4. Open the suction Pump Prime port.

7. Quickly close the Pump Prime Ball Valve.

8. Open the WVO Inlet Ball Valve port.

4. Screw the Mix Nozzle back in.

6. Start the clear water pump.

7. Start the heater.

Magnesol Dry washing 101