How To Make Hair Shampoos

T. Bombeli, MD, BBA. As compared to from the skin in a watery environment. Based Gums have the advantage to act also as foam
emulsion-based products (e.g. creams on the cleansing and foaming property surfac- stabilizer and suspending agent able to keep
and lotions) which require multiple tants are divided into primary and secondary insoluble particles like pigments or zinc pyrit-
phases to produce, formulation of hair surfactants (secondary surfactants are also hione (anti-dandruff) in suspension. Gums do
shampoos is quite easy. A shampoo is ba- called co-surfactants). The primary surfactants not penetrate the skin as do other thickeners.
sically a one-phase, water-based blend of are the key components in shampoos responsi-
cleansing agents (surfactants) that ble for foam and cleansing. The low-foaming Conditioners
foams. Well, there are many other com- co-surfactants as cocoamidopropyl betaine or Nowadays practically all shampoos contain a
ponents that are added to shampoos, but sulfosuccinate are used to reduce the irritant conditioner of some type. Consumers expect
they are included only to achieve a better (eye burning) and drying effect of the primary that their hair is smooth and conditioned after
performance like thickness, fragrance, surfactants. In addition, some co-surfactants shampooing. Most often conditioning agents
foam stability, color or pearlizing and have also conditioning effects like the betaines. are quaternary surfactants (quats) which pos-
conditioning effects. Theoretically, a sim- Thus, a blend of a primary and secondary sur- sess a positive charge that neutralize static
ple mix of surfactants and water would factant and water is the backbone of a every electricity caused by negatively charged dam-
suffice to clean the hair. shampoo. aged hair cuticles. Quats also have fatty
The first thing before starting to formulate groups improving wet comb and gloss.
a shampoo is to determine who will be using Thickeners Hair shampoos contain
the shampoo (baby, adults, pets) and for Nobody wants to use a water-thin shampoo water, primary and secon-
which hair type (oily, dry, dandruff, etc.). For (although they would work as well as thick dary surfactants, thicken-
babies, for example, only the mild and low- ers, conditioners, foam
ones). Thickness is perceived as “richness”. boosters, opacifiers,
foaming secondary surfactants will be used, There are several ways to make a shampoo preservatives, colors and
whereas for an adult with greasy hair a high thick. Very effective viscosity enhancers are fragrances.
amount of the strongly cleansing, primary sur- salts like simple table salt (sodium chloride) or
factants with a foam booster will be used. ammonium chloride which work, however, only Foam Boosters / Stabilizers
with sulfonates or sulfates. Note, too high an Most people equate foaming with cleansing
Surfactants amount of salts make a shampoo more harsh. and think that unless large amounts of foam
Like emulsifiers, surfactants (abbreviation of Other effective thickeners are gums including are generated, the hair will not be cleaned.
SURFace ACTive Agents) are compounds able guar, xanthan and cellulose gum which in- Although this is, of course, not true most of us
to mix oils and water. Their cleansing effect is crease viscosity by forming kind of a gel. prefer to make shampoos that foam. Foam
boosters or foam stabilizers such as gums (eg.
Shampoo Components (Ref. C&T 2004; 119: 64-68) guar or xanthan), sarcosinates and lactylates
are used very often.
Component Options Function Amount (%)
Distilled water Basis 50-80%
Opacifiers
Primary Surfactant Sulfonates, Sulfates Cleansing, foaming 8-12 %
(e.g. alkyl sulfonate) Opacifiers (pearlizers) make shampoos pearles-
Secondary Surfactant Betaines, Sulfosuccinates Cleansing, foaming 2-5 % cent which is perceived as “richness” by most
(e.g. sulfosuccinate, coco Reduces irritation consumers. The most widely used opacifiers in
betaine, polyglucose) Reduces drying shampoos are glycol stearate and glycol
Thickener Salts (e.g. sodium chloride) Enhances viscosity 2-5 % distearate. Both agents are also used to hide a
Gums (e.g. Guar, xanthan) cloudy shampoo.
cellulose)
Conditioner Quaternary compounds Smoothing, detangling 0.1-1% Preservatives
(e.g. quaternium 87) Every shampoo must be preserved unless it is
Foam booster Sarcosinate, lactylates Boosts foam 1-2 %
used up within a few days. Parabens and urea
Foam stabilizer Gums (e.g. Guar, xanthan) Stabilizes foam 0.1-1%
derivatives are preferred (see also Newsletter
Suspending agent Gums (e.g. Guar, xanthan) Suspends solid particles
Opacifier Polyglycol esters (e.g. Pearlescent effect 1-2 % No. 1, July 2004).
glycol distearate)
Preservative Parabens, urea derivatives Avoids spoiling 0.1-0.5% Colors, Fragrances, Active Ingredients
(e.g. Paraben-DU, EDTA) Although colors and fragrances are not neces-
Active ingredients Vitamins, aloe vera etc. Depends on substance as needed sary to make a good shampoo, they add to the
Fragrance Essential oils, artificial fragr. Fragrance as needed shampoo experience and form thus a critical
Color Approved pigments Colors as needed part for the overall performance. In addition,
active ingredients like vitamins or botanicals
can improve further specific properties.
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