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blithe stitches
If you have an ordinary home printer, print out the following sheets:
Before proceeding, make sure you read the printing instructions and the text wri en on page 1 of #1
above. Now go and read them again. Believe me, you need to.
I have to admit I dreaded making this tutorial because it is not as straightforward as tutorials should be.
When I decided to take on The Kimono, I scoured the internet hoping to nd a laymans version of the
pa ern instructions and found none. I now know why: making The Kimono is a very personal
experience and to translate it into words is quite tricky. karinsi
(h p://www.burdastyle.com/projects/my-mcqueen-kimono-jacket) at Burdastyle did have one tip I took
to heart: follow the instructions even if they seem super weird. So, lets do just that, with some
modications on the side.
First, arrange the A4s youve printed out on the oor according to the numbers (1_1, 1_2, 1_3,
2_1,2_2,2_3and so on) found on top of each page. The rst number refers to the row, the second to the
columnso 1_1 is row 1, column 1. If you do this correctly, you should have a set of pa erns roughly
similar to mcqueen_dload_LG1&2 sheet. Now, carefully cut out the sketches from each page and tape
them together. This is quite an arduous step but be patient: after this, you will have all 7 pa ern pieces
you need to construct The Kimono.
Next, cut out your chosen fabric using the pa erns. Note that the pa ern pieces are numbered (refer to
Pa ern Instructions page 2). Ideally, you should follow the straight grain when placing your pa erns on
your fabric to ensure the nished garment hangs beautifully. I had to make adjustments as I had limited
fabric material.
(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-4-of-31.jpg)
Next, transfer ALL the markings you see on the pa erns to your fabric the notches, the lines, the
le ers, the li lest dot. This step is crucial as without these markings, you will nd it hard to execute the
folds correctly and the back of your jacket may end up like crumpled paper instead of an origami
masterpiece. This is how mine looked like (note: I made the markings on the RIGHT side of my fabric
as I wanted to see them as I worked. If you do this, make sure you use tailors chalk or washable ink lest
your nal garment look like an architects blueprint).
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-6-of-31.jpg)
1. Back bodice. Stitch back panel of 2 to 1 matching the notches, as shown below
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-7-of-31.jpg)
2. Facing. Stitch the short ends of 3 together to create a back facing as shown below:
(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-8-of-31.jpg)
The Facing
3. Stitch 3 along the bo om of 1 and 2, right sides together and turn the right way round and press at.
Translation: A ach the facing to the bo om of your back bodice ( #1 and #2), right sides together, as
shown below:
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-9-of-31.jpg)
The facing (3) a ached to the bo om of the back bodice (1 and 2 stitched together)
Bust Dart
4. On piece 1 bring together all the dots marked A, stitch together rstly the short A lines, then the long
one, to create a bust dart.
5. Points C and Y fold down the top C and Y to meet the bo om C and Y, matching C with C and Y
with Y and stitch at the armhole.
I was in limbo after reading Steps 4 and 5 so I did the following instead (please refer to the photo below):
Bring the two short A lines together by folding along the broken lines indicated by the red arrows
(with the crease towards you). To secure this fold, stitch along the line where the short A lines meet.
Now, bring the fold down following the directions of the maroon arrows, such that the two Cs end
up touching on top of each other. This also ensures that the two Ys will be on top of each other,
though not touching.
Lastly, bring the two long A lines together by folding along the middle line in the triangle and
following the direction of the blue arrow.
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram1.jpg)
After steps #4 and #5, you should have something like this:
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-15-of-311.jpg)
6. Shoulder Dart. Fold together the notches at the shoulder line to create a dart and stitch closed at the
armhole. (This is about the clearest step in this whole thing!)
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com
/2012/06/diagram3.jpg)
Origami Back
Now, for the fun part! Advanced origami skills needed here :-). Go to the back bodice and study your
markings. Im terribly sorry but I got carried away at this point and forgot to take photos so I will use
my paper pa erns to illustrate the steps. If you follow the instructions to the le er and fold carefully
along the markings, you will get the desired origami eect. It also helped me a lot referring to this
(h p://showstudio.com/project/design_download_alexander_mcqueen#submissions_gallery:9) and this
(h p://showstudio.com/project/design_download_alexander_mcqueen#submissions_gallery:10) to make
sure that I am going in the right direction.
Note 1: These steps almost glide into each other so remember that you may have to do some of them
simultaneously.
Note 2: The subsequent steps ask that you stitch between the points. I did all these stitchings on the
wrong side of the fabric, so they are all hidden.
7. Point P create dart with matching dots on line opposite and stitch. (The fold should be on the wrong
side of the fabric as this is a dart and should be hidden)
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram2.jpg)
Bring the encircled points together by folding on the broken line and make a dart
8. Points R and D Match up point R with R and D with D, and stitch between them.
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram4n1.jpg)
Following the direction of the red arrows, bring points R and D on the right to meet points R and
D on the left by folding along the green line. Dont forget to stitch between the points to secure the
fold.
9. Points N and T match up point N with N and T with T, and stitch between them. (Refer to photo
below, red arrows)
10. Points N and O match N with N and O with O, stitch up from N to next dot
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10. Points N and O match N with N and O with O, stitch up from N to next dot up and down from O
about 5cm. Again, from right to left, bring points N and O together. Points N and O at the left should be
at the bo om. (Refer to photo below, green arrows)
11. Point M From right to left, match M with M and stitch 1cm along line. (Refer to photo below,
purple arrows)
Points X are your guides. Make sure they are aligned to ensure you get the shape right.
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram51.jpg)
Matching points N, T, O, and M. For step no. 10, the broken yellow lines indicate where the
stitching at the back should be done.
12. Stitch the dart with M at the top closed to dot below point. ( I didnt do this step as I couldnt nd the
bl _ _dy dart after step #11! If you did, please let me know!)
13. Point G From right to left, match G with G and stitch to the 2nd dot down.
(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram8.jpg)
Point G to point G
14. Point S fold 1 at against 2 along the seam, right sides together and stitch from point S to 3 dots
down.
What I did:
Locate the notches on the back panel (Pa ern no. 2, two notches at the neckline and two at the
bo om).
Fold along the thin purple line and bring the left neckline notch to point S, again following
directions of the red arrow.
Stitch from Point S to 3 dots down.
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram9.jpg)
Now, remember that we have only done the left bodice part. Repeat steps #7 to #14 on the right side of
the bodice.
15. Press all sections at. You should have something like this.
(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/mcqueen-20-of-31.jpg)
16. Stitch side seams trapping 3 in between. Translation: Bring the front and the back bodices (with the
facing at the bo om) right sides together and stitch the side seams close. It would be a good idea to hem
the front bodice at this point
I should have done this ages ago, but be er late than never! Here are some clear photos of how the
origami back looks at the wrong side and how I secured it in places.
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(h ps://blithestitches.wordpress.com/tutorials-tips-and-tricks/tutorial-de-
mystifying-alexander-mcqueens-kimono-jacket/export1-4-of-6-copy/)
the nished origami back
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Tutorial: De-mystifying Alexander McQueens Kimono Jacket blithe stitches
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(h ps://blithestitches.wordpress.com/tutorials-tips-and-tricks/tutorial-de-
mystifying-alexander-mcqueens-kimono-jacket/export1-3-of-6/)
yellow circles show where I stitched the folds in place
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Tutorial: De-mystifying Alexander McQueens Kimono Jacket blithe stitches
(h ps://blithestitches.wordpress.com/tutorials-tips-and-tricks/tutorial-de-
mystifying-alexander-mcqueens-kimono-jacket/export1-5-of-6/)
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mystifying-alexander-mcqueens-kimono-jacket/export1-5-of-6/)
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(h ps://blithestitches.wordpress.com/tutorials-tips-and-tricks/tutorial-de-
mystifying-alexander-mcqueens-kimono-jacket/export1-6-of-6/)
the folds up close
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Tutorial: De-mystifying Alexander McQueens Kimono Jacket blithe stitches
Front Panels
Steps #17 to #19 confused the h**l out of me so let me share what I did instead.
Take one piece of Pa ern No. 4, fold in half vertically right sides together (Fig. 1)
Stitch 1cm across the at end, and turn right side out. (Fig 2) Now do the same on the other
piece. Press at.
A ach these panels to either side of the front bodice opening using a simple top stitch, matching the
notches, as shown in Fig. 3.
(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram7.jpg)
20. Stitch 6 and 7 together at the short ends with 1cm notches. Fold length ways and press.
21. Stitch strip to the neckline and down the front, with 7 on the left side, matching the notches.
22. Fold the ends of 6 and 7 right sides together and stitch across the bo om and remaining side.
24. Stitch the other side of 6 and 7 to the neckline and front on the inside.
With right sides together, stitch 6 and 7 together at the ends where the 1cm notches are.
Again, with right sides together, fold the strip horizontally in half and press.
Make a 1cm seam at both ends, marked by the thin red lines.
Turn the strip right side out and press at the seams. You are now ready to a ach the strip to the
bodice by following step 21 and 24.
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(h ps://blithestitches.les.wordpress.com/2012/06/diagram6.jpg)
After folding the strip in half right sides together, make a 1cm seam at both ends, marked by the red lines.
Sleeves. To make the sleeves, just follow the remaining instructions. I think they are clear enough for us
mortal seamstresses
-End of Tutorial
Whew! Thats it! I hope this helps you with your own Kimono adventure! Please, do share your nished
projects by sending me an email or leaving a link/comment. I would love to see them!
If you like this tutorial, please share with your friends by linking back to the blog.
1. dana says:
February 6, 2016 at 10:06 pm
Hi,
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Hi,
Thank you for the detailed tutorial!
Im having trouble with the origami back, I sewed one side of the back, but it doesnt look pre y at
all
You wrote that all the seams are on the wrong side. Does that mean that all the folds should be
treated as darts? meaning the fold is on the wrong side?
Thanks a lot!
Dana
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
February 26, 2016 at 10:19 am
Hi Dana,
Ill post a pic of the inside of my jacket and hope it helps you visually. Its quite complicated to
use words to explain this, as you can imagine!
Thanks a lot for dropping by and apologies for the late reply!
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2. Caroline says:
June 20, 2015 at 5:45 am
Oh my goodness thank you! Between the original instructions, your tutorial and my draping I
worked it out. The back of mine was really big, it looked like I may have missed a drape/dart near the
back seams. After reading both tutorials a few times to nd that I hadnt missed anything, realised I
needed to wing it a bit.
(On both sides) I measured 2 in from the side seam, then folded that point across to meet the
seamline, stitching closed on the inside from 2 above the hem for 2-3. Then tapered towards the
neckline seam as I ironed and it worked. Hurrah!
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3. Pingback: Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket | Everything Just Sew
1. Blithe says:
May 28, 2015 at 12:42 am
Your kimono jacket is a thing of beauty, too!
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4. Audrey says:
August 2, 2014 at 11:41 pm
Blithe, how did you or do you recommend nishing the inside and also how many yards of fabric
will be needed?
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
August 12, 2014 at 6:34 pm
Hi Audrey,
I left it unlined, just serged the edges for a nished look. I think I mentioned yardage in the
article. Will check. Thanks for visiting!
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5. Pingback: The McQueen | Made by Toya
6. Bevelee regan says:
June 6, 2014 at 4:50 am
Blithe you are an absolute star for deciphering those instructions and more so for very patiently
answering all the following questions from your readers. I had discovered you blog completely by
accident which then led me and our followers to discover that McQueen had downloadable pa erns!!
I posted a link to your site on our FB page. Thanks again bevelee @ FG
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
June 8, 2014 at 11:47 am
Hi Bevelee! Heres to serendipity Thanks for dropping by. I do wish I could spend more time
updating the blog but Im glad that my old posts are still helping stitch addicts out there
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7. Miguel Mesa says:
May 9, 2014 at 1:44 pm
Hello Dear Blithe. I dont know why but I nd my back facing shorter than the lenght of the 1 and 2
pieces togheter !! what do you think is wrong ? Thank you so much for doing this tutorial!!!
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
May 19, 2014 at 10:40 am
Hi Miguel,
So sorry for this late reply. How did you get on with back facing? Short by how much? Let me
look at the tutorial again. Thanks!
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8. Lizzie says:
May 1, 2014 at 2:05 pm
Can you clarify the steps 25-28? I still dont understand it because the sleeve pa ern is uneven when I
line it up.
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
May 19, 2014 at 10:41 am
Hi Lizzie,
Im sorry for this late reply. Are you still stuck? Let me review the tutorial and get back to you.
REPLY
2. Blithe says:
June 10, 2014 at 9:35 am
Hi Lizzie, make sure you line up the notches on the sleeve with those on the armhole. This will
leave an opening at the armpit area. Hope this helps!
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9. Thimbelina (@JustSewTired) says:
May 28, 2013 at 6:30 am
Holy crap. Have just scoured the internet for EXACTLY this kind of help, as I download and
prepared the paper pa ern back in 2004, but have only just worked up the nerve to give it a go (its
currently on my dress stand, the origami back half-started, with the words Its gonna be *inuenced*
by McQueen hanging over it
Going to read your whole post properly in the morning, but just wanted to say THANK YOU for
doing this tutorial! #lifesaver
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
May 28, 2013 at 8:11 pm
Hi Thimbelina!
Well, glad to have you here Hope to see that Kimono Jacket on you, rather than the dress
stand. God luck!
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1. Lizzie says:
April 24, 2014 at 10:22 am
OMG I was looking for this EVERYWHERE.. and sorry about my reply on your other
post, Handmade and Fabulous: Alexander McQueens Kimono Jacket I didnt see this
AMAZING tutorial before I left a reply there..Anywayssssssss You are a TOTAL genius
for de-mystifying the McQueen Kimono jacket!!! xoxo
2. Lizzie says:
April 24, 2014 at 10:26 am
By the way. Is it harder if I use silk instead of a sturdy fabric? Im just a beginner so I was
just wondering. What do you recommend, because I saw that the original McQueen jacket
was made of black silk as well.
3. Blithe says:
May 19, 2014 at 10:42 am
Yes, anything slippery would be generally harder to sew.
10. Pingback: Free Designer Pa ern: Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket | Pa ernVault
11. sunumol says:
March 4, 2013 at 5:57 pm
Did you need to add a seam allowance or was it incorporated into the pa ern? If incorporated into
the pa ern, how much was the seam allowance?
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
March 4, 2013 at 8:57 pm
Hi there, Im not sure if seam allowance is included in the pa ern but I didnt add any. I just used
1/4 allowance all throughout. Hope this helps and thank you for dropping by. Good luck!
REPLY
I was wonderingthe yellow stitches in step 10 from N and O, what do they do? They dont appear to
be connecting anything unless I am misunderstanding.
And in Point 11, what line am I stitching on? M to M is vertical so I cant stitch right to left on that,
can I?
Point 13: how do you stitch right to left if you are stitching down to the second dot?
Thanks again SO MUCH for creating this how-to. I am determined to nish this project as your jacket
looks so gorgeous.
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
February 22, 2013 at 8:03 am
Hi Gail,
Step no. 10 helps form the folds of the origami back. The yellow stitches secure the fold made by
bringing together points N and O. This stitching is done at the wrong side of the fabric. Hope this
clears things up a bit
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1. marmaladelle says:
February 22, 2013 at 11:44 am
Thank you, Blithe. If I ever nish and it looks like something other than a crumpled napkin, I
will post pictures and let you know.
2. Blithe says:
February 23, 2013 at 9:18 am
Looking forward to that. Good luck!
2. Blithe says:
February 23, 2013 at 9:26 am
Hi Gail,
Sorry but I forgot to address the rest of your post :-). Yes, the stitchings at the back should all be
vertical. The right to left phrase refers to the direction of the fold, i.e., the M at the right brought
over to the M at the left, and not the other way around. I will rephrase my sentences to make it
clearer
REPLY
1. Gail Nelson-Bonebrake says:
February 24, 2013 at 7:47 am
Thanks, that helps.
You werent kidding about the bloodshed. My ngers are bleeding. And
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You werent kidding about the bloodshed. My ngers are bleeding. And the back does not
look as perfect as yours, but Im over the hump. I think I know where the mystery dart goes.
I had a very hard time keeping track of the pa ern pieces on the back, so what I did was cut
out each dart/shape from the origami back in paper, label them, and pin them to the inside of
the back, and I removed the pieces as I stitched point to point. Also, I needed to mark the
shapes on the front with chalk to align the folds correctly. And maybe it was because of my
fabric choice (heavy denim), but I had to tack the folds down here and there when I was done.
2. Blithe says:
February 25, 2013 at 8:43 am
Congratulations on your Kimono Jacket! I may have given you a rough map but it is your
journey :-). The fabric choice makes a lot of dierence, too. Please send your photos and a
short bio to blithe.sanchez@yahoo.com. Id be happy to feature it at the Museum.
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1. Blithe says:
February 6, 2013 at 7:30 am
Youre very welcome, happy to be of help
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14. Heather Ellio says:
January 3, 2013 at 9:33 am
how many meters of fabric used?
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
January 6, 2013 at 1:48 pm
Hi Heather,
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15. Yaima Victoria says:
September 27, 2012 at 12:23 am
Wow! This is gorgeous Hope mine comes out as great as yours. I am working on this pa ern
(about to pull my hair out) and havent even began to sew. I have a question: when I cut my pa ern
out, piece 3 is shorter as I try to piece it with 1 and 2. Is that suppose to happen? Also: the stitches
you talk about between points are those like the darts? or am I suppose to stitch
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you talk about between points are those like the darts? or am I suppose to stitch up and down the
yellow lines between the dots? Sorry for the bombardment, I am fairly new at sewing. This pa ern is
really tricky. I appreciate your help.
REPLY
1. Blithe says:
September 27, 2012 at 9:50 am
Hi, Yaima! Well, I pulled out some of mine when I rst started so youre ne :-). To answer your
questions: Piece #3 should be roughly the same length, if not slightly longer, as #1 and #2 pieced
together. How short is it? If very short, maybe you can add a an inch or two on both sides of #3 to
bring it to the desired length. As for the stitches between points, youre correct: just stitch up and
down the lines between points to secure the folds.
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1. Yaima Victoria says:
November 9, 2012 at 3:14 am
After much hair pulling, fabric testing, more hair pulling (I havent gone bald yet) its nally
done! Im wearing it right now I wanted to post a picture of it but unsure how to do it but
anyhow thank you so very much for this tutorial. I ended up altering some parts as I am an
xsmall but the nal result was worth all that hair pulling.
2. Blithe says:
November 10, 2012 at 8:28 pm
Please send it to my email blithe.sanchez@yahoo.com. I would love to see it. Im thinking of
creating a page for nished projects from contributors and you could help me start! Thanks!
4. Blithe says:
November 15, 2012 at 7:01 am
Beautiful, Yaima! I love your fabric choice but I know it was a lot harder to tame than mine!
Brave girl! Now onto adding a new page.come back again soon to check it out
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1. Blithe says:
August 11, 2012 at 11:19 am
Hi Donna, this is a tricky one, mainly because of the complex origami back. But you have to have
a starting point so I suggest printing out the whole pa ern, tape and cut them up and carefully
scale it to your measurements (shoulders, armholes,etc.). My nished waistline using this pa ern
is between 26-29 inches depending on whether I close it or leave it open. I know this isnt much
help but I hope it gives you an idea on where to start.
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2. Carolyn says:
September 14, 2012 at 1:23 am
Blythe,
On step 10..Exactly where should the stitching be done. Do I start the mark below N to the N
point and then down to O and backtrack 5 cm at O
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1. Blithe says:
September 14, 2012 at 10:47 am
Hi, Carolyn. Please see the amended photo. Ive indicated where the stitching at the back
should be done. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Cheers!
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1. Blithe says:
August 10, 2012 at 2:31 am
Hi Kristiane, I have updated that photo to show where I stitched at the back (broken yellow lines).
Youre right, you should sew a straight line between the points to secure the fold be er.
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1. kristiane says:
August 13, 2012 at 12:01 am
finished! thanks for the help! i used muslin, as i wanted to make a practice jacket before
risking an expensive fabric, and then dyed it afterwards. now that it has been demystied i
will denitely make another one in the decadent fabric this project deserves! anyway, i would
love to send you a picture, but i dont see your email address
k.
ps i have only just started to sew again after many years of not sewing at all, so if i can do this,
anyone can!
2. Blithe says:
August 13, 2012 at 10:25 am
Excellent! Happy to help. My email is b_s_odriscoll@yahoo.co.uk. Ill have to nd a widget to
insert my email add somewhere. Looking forward to your photos!
Only wanna state that this is handy , Thanks for taking your time to write this.
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1. Blithe says:
August 10, 2012 at 2:35 am
Thanks, and thank you for dropping by
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19. Terry says:
July 18, 2012 at 10:38 am
Do you know what size the pa ern is?
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1. Blithe says:
July 18, 2012 at 11:46 am
Hi Terry,
I am a UK size 8 and it t perfectly without any alteration. There is also a 1cm seam allowance
included. This I found after a LOT of research
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1. Terry says:
July 18, 2012 at 12:03 pm
Thanks. Im glad you did the research. I couldnt nd the information anywhere.
2. Blithe says:
July 18, 2012 at 12:05 pm
Youre welcome. Good luck on making it!
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1. Blithe says:
June 11, 2012 at 8:00 pm
Thanks, Louise! Good luck on yours
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