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This is a very powerful, 3d-printed brushless motor. The main components like rotor and stator can be printed with a
common FDM-printer. Magnets, copper wire, and ball-bearings are ordinary components can be sourced from the links
below. The motor is a redesign based on the learnings from the makeSEA Motor (/brushless-motor). It has 600 Watts,
and performs with more than 80% eciency. The magnets of the rotor are arranged as Halbach Array. The motor runs with
a standard ESC widely used in dierent RC-applications (plane, drone, car).
p_p_id=5_WAR_forgecartportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_r_p_-449071137_keywords=&_5_WAR_forgecartportlet_formDate=14969645
Nominal Voltage 30 V
Nominal Current 20 A
Kv 255 rpm / V
Diameter 105 mm
Shaft Diameter 8 mm
Building Instructions:
Assembly Animation:
3d-printed Halbach Motor - Assem
Test-Run:
Main Components
Slots for magnets. Ventilation outlets. Fixed to shaft. Needs to be strong, not brittle, withstand high centrifugal forces.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 4
Infill: 60-80%
Support: O
Closes the rotor and fixes the magnets. Like the lid of a jar. Ventilation inlets. Big ball-bearing.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 2
Infill: 50%
Support: O
Collar 2x 8mm-13.stl
Firmly locks rotor with shaft. Inludes 2 (smaller) metal shaft collars. Option to attach another component (propeller,
pulley) with 4 M3 bolts.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 3
Infill: 70-90%
Support: On
Chassis mount. Ball-bearings. Base for winding core. Big vibrations, when rotor badly balanced.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 3
Infill: 70-90%
Support: O
Chassis mount. Ball-bearings. Base for winding core. Big vibrations, when rotor badly balanced.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 3
Infill: 70-90%
Support: O
If the rotor can move along the rotation axis, one (or more) washers need to be inserted.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 2
Infill: 50%
Support: O
Small section of the rotor for testing magnets fit, potentially adjust the print settings.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Shell Layers: 4
Infill: 60-80%
Support: O
Helps to wind copper wire. Space for approx. 50g copper. Fits inside the stator core.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Shell Layers: 2
Infill: 30%
Support: O
Spool Bottom 40mm.stl
Helps to wind copper wire. Space for approx. 50g copper. Fits inside the stator core.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Shell Layers: 2
Infill: 30%
Support: O
Wire Pusher.stl
Never use metal tools to squeeze the wires into the slots (damage isolation). Better use this tool.
Material: PETG
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Shell Layers: 2
Infill: 50%
Support: O
Small Ball-Bearings (2 pieces, 8mm inner Diameter, 16mm outer Diameter, 5mm Width, 688ZZ):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-10-Pcs-16mm-x-8mm-x-5mm-Steel-Shielded-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-688ZZ/32545084785.html
(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-10-Pcs-16mm-x-8mm-x-5mm-Steel-Shielded-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-688ZZ/32545084785.html)
Large Ball-Bearing (1 piece, 50mm inner Diameter, 62mm outer Diameter, 6mm Width, 6710ZZ):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/The-high-quality-of-ultra-thin-deep-groove-ball-bearings-6710ZZ-50-62-6-mm/32381559782.html
(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/The-high-quality-of-ultra-thin-deep-groove-ball-bearings-6710ZZ-50-62-6-mm/32381559782.html)
Shaft Collars (3 pieces, 8mm inner Diameter, 13mm outer Diameter, 5mm Width):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-20PCS-DIY-8MM-metal-Bushing-axle-sleeve-2-3-g-Weight-Stainless-steel-shaft-sleeve/32514016532.html
(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-20PCS-DIY-8MM-metal-Bushing-axle-sleeve-2-3-g-Weight-Stainless-steel-shaft-sleeve/32514016532.html)
Note 1: The sizes of the magnets indicated by the sellers are a nominal values. In reality the magnets are a bit smaller. The 3d-design of the rotor is optimized for the real
size (large magnets: 39.2 x 9.7 x 3.7 mm, small magnets: 19.2 x 4.7 x 2.8 mm). In doubt, contact the seller before ordering.
Note 2: When youre doing the first test runs, keep an eye on the rotation speed - especially, if youre using different materials. Better start with a lower voltage
battery. If the motor rotates too fast, it could disintegrate, and fast flying debris can cause severe injuries. The expected rotation speed, when the rotor breaks is
15000 rpm. The suggested maximum rotation speed is 8000 rpm, whereas the internal forces are almost a factor of 4 below the catastrophic limit.
Or, you can try sourcing your own individual parts here:
Depending on your application you should prepare M3 Bolts and Nuts, Washers, connecting Cables, Heat-Shrink, and Plugs. As tools you need a decent drill-press, a solder
iron, various screwdrivers, and a little scale. Make sure your 8 mm drill-bit is in a good shape.
Note 1: The sizes of the magnets indicated by the sellers are a nominal values. In reality the magnets are a bit smaller. The 3d-design of the rotor is optimized for the real
size (large magnets: 39.2 x 9.7 x 3.7 mm, small magnets: 19.2 x 4.7 x 2.8 mm). In doubt, contact the seller before ordering.
Note 2: When youre doing the first test runs, keep an eye on the rotation speed - especially, if youre using dierent materials. Better start with a lower voltage battery. If the
motor rotates too fast, it could disintegrate, and fast flying debris can cause severe injuries. The expected rotation speed, when the rotor breaks is 15000 rpm. The
suggested maximum rotation speed is 8000 rpm, whereas the internal forces are almost a factor of 4 below the catastrophic limit.
The files can all be purchased and downloaded from the makeSEA Mash Market (/e/6PO-3W5-
3nE-1d2m-a3Q-3o5-1i26/Laimer-660-Watt-3d-printed-Halbach-Array-Brushless-Motor-Non-
Commercial-Use-License). Please note, that you must be logged in (registration is free) in order to
get the files.
p_p_id=5_WAR_forgecartportlet&p_p_lifecycle=0&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&p_r_p_-449071137_keywords=&_5_WAR_forgecartportlet_formDate=14969645
Once you have purchased a License, the individual files and updates will aslo be available direclty from this page.
Component Material Layer Shells Infill Support
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Halbach Rotor A 8mm.stl PETG 0.15mm 4 60-80% No
Halbach Rotot B.stl PETG 0.15mm 2 50% No
Collar 2x 8mm-13.stl PETG 0.15mm 3 70-90% Yes
Stator Mount A.stl PETG 0.15mm 3 70-90% No
Stator Mount B.stl PETG 0.15mm 3 70-90% No
Washer M50 0_75mm.stl PETG 0.15mm 2 50% No
Stator Core A.stl PLA(*) 0.15mm 2 95% No
Stator Core B.stl PLA(*) 0.15mm 2 95% No
The ROTOR with the slots for the magnets is the largest part. The second part of the rotor is like the lid of a jar, and holds the magnets in place. The third smaller part of the
rotor named collar is needed to firmly lock the shaft to the rotor. The rotor needs to sustain a high centrifugal forces, hence I recommend a material, which is strong and
not brittle. The shaft collar is the only piece, which needs to be printed with supports enabled.
The STATOR CORE is the winding form of the copper wires. It consists of two symmetrical parts. I recommend to use magnetic PLA (https://www.proto-
pasta.com/pages/magnetic-iron-pla) from Proto Pasta. PLA has a problem at higher temperatures, but the metal powder not only helps to increase the magnetic flux, but
also helps to dissipate heat.
The STATOR MOUNT is also divided into two halves, it firmly locks the stator core, and allows to mount the motor on a chassis. All ball-bearings sit on the stator mount, and
it finally needs to absorb all the forces from the motor (vibrations, torque).
Accessory Components
Since it takes several hours to print the rotor, I recommend to first print a small section, fit in the magnets, and tune the print-settings if needed. There is also a spool, which
is very useful for the winding work. And there is my "WirePusher" - a tool that looks like a degenerated spatula.
The material settings for these tools is less critical. You probably can print them also with PLA or ABS.
Use a drill-press to adjust the holes for the shaft and screws. Lubricate the drill-bit, and drill at low
rotation speeds - cut and not melt the plastic! The 8 mm bore in the rotor and the collar needs to
drilled very careful - it has to be perfectly straight, or there will be a potential problem with a very
bad balanced rotor.
Press-in all the ball-bearings. If its too loose, you can add some kapton-tape (dont use painters
tape).
Fix the nuts on one end of the rods with thread-locker glue.
Push the two halves of the stator cores onto the stator mount, and align the teeth-headers. Fix them
with painters tape for later winding work.
Also check, if the rotor can freely spin, and doesn't touch the stator.
I recommend to wire the motor with the wye-configuration, hence the 3 terminals of the cables can
already be soldered together, and isolated with heat-shrink. In my tests I've measured quite high
circulating currents for the delta connection. Nevertheless, if you want to experiment with delta- or
wye-configuration, keep all the terminals unconnected.
The illustrations show the 3 phases coloured in yellow, red, and blue. The cables are placed with alternating phase and direction into the slots. A single phase consists of 9
smaller coils arranged around the stator.
Use a piece of wood or plastic and tightly push the copper wires into the slots. Never use metal
tools like a screwdriver, because it damages the isolation. Better use my 3d-printed wire-pusher.
Wire the cable back to the slot, where youve started. The first turn of the first coil is now
completed. Repeat this procedure and make 3 more turns. With the last turn, place the remaining
cable inside the stator. It will stay there until the next round.
Phase B: Repeat exactly the same as with phase A, but start with 2 slots oset. The overlapping wires help to fix the wires beneath. When done, also put the spare cable
inside the stator.
Phase C: Redo the same pattern again with the third cable.
Great! 1/9 of the winding work is now finished. The rest of the work isnt much dierent. Get the spool of phase A out of the interior of the stator, and just continue. Then do
phase B, then C, and so on.
When you get to the very last coil of phase C you will realise, that there is something fishy. The
cables need to be wired beneath the first coil of phase A. Widen the space with a wooden toothpick,
unroll the remaining cable from the small spool, and start weaving!
The result of the weaving work not only looks great, but it also secures ALL the cables.
If you soldered already the cables for the wye-configuration, there are only 3 wires to feed through the holes. For finishing the wires, you need to solder some connectors,
and protect them with heat-shrink.
Well done! That was certainly the hardest part of the motor.
Stick all the magnets on an iron bar. Orient all of them with the same polarity, north or south upwards. Label the
magnets with a number for later identification.
A simple construction helps measuring the force: Take a wooden bar, and put one end onto the scale, the
other end on a block of wood which keeps the bar horizontal. Place the magnet on the bar, mark the exact
position, and tare the scale. Push a ferromagnetic object beneath the magnet, also remember or mark that
position. I found a piece of ferrite with a similar size like the magnets. Another chunk of metal, for example some
nuts, will certainly work as well, but you need to be careful to not magnetise it during the measurements. Tare
the scale for each magnet, before measuring the force. Make a note all the values.
For measuring the weight, Im using a similar construction with a wooden lever. This time the scale needs to be
tared only once without the magnet. Also write up all these values.
The plot illustrates the distribution of my magnets. The variation of the magnetic force is very significant but it
has no influence on the centrifugal forces (in particular the small magnets are distributed over a wide range: the
strongest magnet is almost 3 times stronger than the weakest magnet). However the variation of the weight
matters. Imagine, if all the heavy magnets were located to the same side of the rotor.
Secondly insert the small magnets with the same balancing method as the large magnets. When inserting them, the large magnets will help to find the correct polarity. If the
polarity is wrong, the small magnet will float in its slot. Turn it around, and with the correct polarity, the magnet snap to its proper position.
Slide the completed stator into the rotor. Maybe you first try to close the motor without that large 3d-printed
washer. If the stator doesnt slide forth or back, youre done. In my case the washer was needed - probably the
clearance depends on the printer calibration calibration.
Turn the rotor by hand, and carefully listen, if there is some noise from cables, which are touching the rotor.
Remove the stator again, and find the reason. Cables are maybe not properly in their slots. Maybe the cables
are touching the air-sealing ring of the rotor (see highlighted spot in the drawing).
Basically the rotor is already well fixed when the lid is closed, but if there is a heavy load directly attached to the
shaft, I recommend to fix another metal collar on the side of the stator mount.
I also strongly recommend to build a simple, wooden test-stand for the motor. The four threaded rods are used
to fix the stator. Dont tighten the nuts too much, because there is only plastic on the other side. If the nuts
come loose while the motor is running, you should use locking nuts instead.
Connect the three wires from the motor to a regular ESC. Im using my homemade arduino-based servo-tester
for generating the control signal. Its also a good idea to alternatively use an RC transmitter and a receiver - then
you can do the tests from a safe distance. For the very first test you should really use a battery with a voltage
much lower than the nominal voltage of the motor. The motor will spin not as fast, and in case something goes
wrong, the damage is less severe. With 8 volts from the battery the motor should be slower than 2000 rpm.
Without a load the motor draws much less than 1 amp. Im attaching a propeller and let it run in reverse
direction, because I want to test the current and not the thrust. For this test Im initially using again the small
battery. Tests at low RPM with the small battery can safely be done indoor, but with the higher voltage from a
bigger battery, I recommend to do the tests outdoor.
Winding Options
The nominal voltage depends on the number of turns per slot and the number of parallel coils. The maximum
current depends on the copper wire section area, and the number of parallel strands and coils. The following
table shows some suggested configurations matching with dierent batteries. The 8S LiPo version is the
configuration, which has been tested in-depth. It is used as a reference.
8S 6S 4S 3S 2S
---------------------------------------------------------
Wire Diameter 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 mm
Wire Strands 6 8 12 5 8 #
Turns per Slot 4 3 2 5 3 #
Parallel Coils 1 1 1 3 3 #
Total Wire Area 0.95 1.27 1.91 2.40 3.82 mm^2
Nominal Voltage 30 23 15 13 8 V
Nominal Current 20 27 40 50 80 A
Nominal Power 600 600 600 625 600 W
Wire Strands: When winding your first motor, its recommended to use less strands, because the work becomes substantially more simple. The downside is a declined
nominal current and power. With more strands its more dicult to fit all the cables into the slots. Since I'd like to do more experiments with this motor, I've been winding
another core and used 20% more copper wires. I guess that's the upper limit which fits into the slots. That motor still needs to be tested.
Related Links
This Motor Design: https://youtu.be/XSNmZNlcA1w (https://youtu.be/XSNmZNlcA1w)
Halbach Array: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halbach_array (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halbach_array)
Brushless Motor Basics: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor)
DIY electric Motor Hints: http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/ (http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/)
Electronic Speed Control: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_speed_control (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_speed_control)
The original makeSEA Motor: https://www.makesea.com/web/claimer/brushless-motor (https://www.makesea.com/web/claimer/brushless-motor)
Maximum RPM Test makeSEA Motor: https://youtu.be/WEEDJiC8Jqc (https://youtu.be/WEEDJiC8Jqc)
Author Home Page: http://www.laimer.ch (http://www.laimer.ch)
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Average (3 Votes)
Add Comment
Looks great. I bought the models but some of the links for hardware needed have exorbitant shipping costs because I am in the U.S. Could you find equivalents in the U.S.?
Like the threaded rods for example.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/11/17 2:50 AM.
Maker Support
Hi William - we have sourced all of the parts for this build and are awaiting their arrival. Complete kits will be available at the Mash Market, shortly. Stay tuned!
+2 (2 Votes)
Posted on 5/11/17 11:13 AM in reply to William Edward Johnson.
Steve Gaignard
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=314130&privateLayout=0)
That's very nice! Is it correct to say that at 7650 RPM the torque is 0,078 Nm and that at 255 RPM the torque is 2,35 Nm? (without considering the eciency)
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/12/17 12:37 PM.
Maker Support
A useful comment from Christoph: "The current limit for the Halbach motor depends on the copper wires just like with the smaller makeSEA motor. There is a table at the
end of the description with suggested winding options. The current limit is between 20A and 80A."
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/15/17 10:25 PM.
Hi friend Christoph Laimer, how do I get the plastic modes. Where they sell?. Halbach Rotor A
Halbach Rotor B
Collar 2x 8mm-13
Stator Mount A
Stator Mount A, Etc.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/16/17 7:48 AM.
Matt Ziegenhorn
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=327510&privateLayout=0)
Judging by the board you mounted to in the first video, did you make a larger version or have one planned and went ahead and predrilled the board?
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/17/17 7:43 PM.
Fabio Hasseck
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=330398&privateLayout=0)
I've just purchased the license but I can't find the download link.. where is it?
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/19/17 6:34 AM.
Maker Support
Hello Fabio, a link to download a zip package of the printed files is provided once the purchase is complete with your order summary. You can also find this under the menu
"Welcome <your name>" -> My Orders. You will also be added to the access list so that you can view and download the individual project files from the Folders listed,
below. If you continue to have problems accessing the files please use the Contact Us form at the bottom of the page to reach Support for further assistance.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/22/17 11:58 AM in reply to Fabio Hasseck.
Maker Support
Please select "PURCHASE NON-COMMERCIAL USE LICENSE" button on this page to purchase access to these project files.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 5/22/17 11:59 AM in reply to EDUARDO DAVID RUIZ PINCHE.
Eduardo Souza
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=281794&privateLayout=0)
Hello, I'd like to ask about the use of Hall sensors in this motor to be controlled by a BLDC speed controller instead of the ESC used in hobby motors. Would the Halbach
array supply alternating poles to change the hall sensors state?
And what would be the correct placement of the Hall sensors?
Thanks
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 6/7/17 7:46 PM.
I have started printing the models and the prints so far are superb. I am doing this with my son as a science project so I want to compare the performance with the magnetic
pla part and with the part not being magnetic pla. I figure I could set each at a certain RPM and compare their electrical draw.
Any comments on this?
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 6/8/17 1:12 PM.
Maker Support
Hi William, that's fantastic news! We would love to learn of your findings - please be sure to post to your makeSEA Blog on your Profile page to keep us posted and we're
happy to link back to this project. Also, Christoph did a similar experiment early on in our research and you can learn more about his findings at
https://www.makesea.com/wiki See the article about the Motor v.0 prototype regarding comparing ferromagnetic and non-ferromagnetic prints of the core. We would love to
know what your results are with the Halbach Array motor, too.
+1 (1 Vote)
Posted on 6/9/17 2:26 PM in reply to William Edward Johnson.
Christoph Laimer
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=96396&privateLayout=0)
Hi Eduardo. I don't think that a Hall sensor works outside of the rotor, because of the "odd" magnetic field of the halbach array. However it certainly works inside. But the
current design has no designated place close to the magnets, because I wanted to have all the copper wires as close as possible. The hall sensor needs to be positioned
beneath the copper wires. The ventilation channel is 9mm away from the magnets - a sensor could be positioned there without modification of the stator core. Alternatively
you could try to make a cavity in the stator core directly beneath the copper wires - that's 4.5mm away from the magnets. Actually that would also be a perfect spot to sense
the temperature. Guiding the cables out of the motor is no problem. There are many channels, because of the ventilation system (of course it wouldn't be a good idea to fill
all the ventilation channels with cablers). Cheers, Christoph
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 6/17/17 3:31 AM in reply to Eduardo Souza.
Christoph Laimer
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=96396&privateLayout=0)
I made that experiment, but wasn't yet able to compare the eciency. So far I know, that magnetic PLA decreases Kv by 15%, which means that the voltage needs to be
reduced by 15% (in order to keep the RPM within the specified range). Current and copper losses are the same. So I expect that the motor with the magnetic PLA has 15%
more power.
+1 (1 Vote)
Posted on 6/17/17 3:42 AM in reply to William Edward Johnson.
michael Rinkle
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=386129&privateLayout=0)
given the permeability of the proto pasta magnetic (iron filler) is about 5 to 8 vs 99% Iron of 5000, suce to say that this motor would be about 100X more powerful with a
cast Iron stator using the lost casting method and pouring real cast iron?
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 6/29/17 8:27 PM.
OK, so I am on step 3. I live in the U.S. so we use inches. I need a metric drill bit set that includes an 8mm bit. These drill bits need to have a hex shank on them to fit the drill
press adapter I designed for this project (I only have a Dremmel press and a power hand drill). I am having trouble locating such a metric set. Does anyone have any
recommendations where I can buy it?
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 7/2/17 6:51 PM in reply to William Edward Johnson.
Christoph Laimer
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=96396&privateLayout=0)
I don't know where to get one with a hex shaft. Anyway there are cheap metric drills with uncertain quality from China:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/13pcs-set-2-12mm-useful-Twist-Drill-Bit-Set-High-speed-Steel-Titanium-Plated-Drill-Bits/32686061871.html
This seems to be very high quality: https://www.mcmaster.com/#27465a422/=18c5nxw
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 7/3/17 7:47 AM in reply to William Edward Johnson.
Hi all, I have a doubt, this motor should have 2 positive and negative poles of 600 Watts DC, as the circuit would be. An electric generator.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 7/12/17 9:00 AM.
Maker Support
Hello Eduardo, this motor design is for a 3-phase motor; essentially, two of each of the three leads become the poles with each pulse. It could work as a generator. Please
see our other related Wiki articles and the windpowerWriter Wind Turbine project here at makeSEA for an example of a rectifier circuit that can convert the 3-phase generator
output to DC current. In that design, the motor is wrapped more densely with thinner wire to produce a small current at low RPM speeds that can be stepped-up for useful
output (e.g., for storage as charge, or to drive an Arduino, in that example). Similar alterations may be of benefit here. A challenge for you: design a suitable rectifier circuit
and design modifications to make this Halbach design into a generator, and we will help you to resell those improvements as a kit.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 7/12/17 1:04 PM in reply to EDUARDO DAVID RUIZ PINCHE.
Fabio Hasseck
(https://www.makesea.com/c/my_sites/view?groupId=330398&privateLayout=0)
Out of curiousity, when a propelor like the one you used in the video is added, how much thrust can this motor provide and how much mass can it lift if positioned like
helicopter rotor?
I'm planning a drone that can carry some cargo (probably things less than 10KG) but I've yet to get PETG to print and measure myself.
0 (0 Votes)
Posted on 7/18/17 11:10 AM.
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